Fodor's Essential Hawaii
Author: Fodor's Travel Guides
Date: 2024-11-19 00:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Travel
Description: Whether you want to visit Big Island's Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, relax on Waikiki Beach, or take a boat tour of Kauai's Napali Coast, the local Fodor's travel experts in Hawaii are here to help! Fodor's Essential Hawaii guidebook is packed with maps, carefully curated recommendations, and everything else you need to simplify your trip-planning process and make the most of your time. This new edition has an easy-to-read layout, fresh information, and beautiful color photos. Fodor's "Essential" guides were named by Booklist as the Best Travel Guide Series of 2020! Fodor's Essential Hawaii
Publisher: Fodor's Travel

About This Book

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Fodor’s Recommendations

Everything in this guide is worth doing—we don’t cover what isn’t—but our favorite places are designated Fodor’sChoice to indicate our highest recommendation.

Sights and Activities

We look high and low to find the most interesting things for you to see and do. For attractions, we always list adult admission fees; additional discounts are usually available for children, students, and seniors.

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Unless we state otherwise, restaurants are open for lunch and dinner daily. We classify every restaurant with a price category as well as listing the average cost of a main course at dinner (or if dinner is not served, at lunch). For more detailed restaurant reviews, visit Fodors.com.

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While we like all the hotels we recommend, we promise to always give you both the pros and cons. Unless otherwise specified, you can expect private bath, phone, and TV in your room. We classify every hotel with a price category as well as listing the average cost of a double room in high season. For more detailed hotel reviews, visit Fodors.com.

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EUGENE FODOR

Hungarian-born Eugene Fodor (1905–91) began his travel career as an interpreter on a French cruise ship. The experience inspired him to write On the Continent (1936), the first guidebook to receive annual updates and discuss a country’s way of life as well as its sights. Fodor later joined the U.S. Army and worked for the OSS in World War II. After the war, he kept up his intelligence work while expanding his guidebook series. During the Cold War, many guides were written by fellow agents who understood the value of insider information. Today’s guides continue Fodor’s legacy by providing travelers with timely coverage, insider tips, and cultural context.

Welcome to Hawaii

Hawaii overflows with natural beauty. Piercing the surface of the Pacific from the ocean floor, the Hawaiian Islands are garlanded with soft sand beaches and dramatic volcanic cliffs. Long days of sunshine and fairly mild year-round temperatures make this an all-season destination, and the Islands’ offerings—from urban Honolulu on Oahu to the luxury resorts of Maui to the natural wonders of Kauai and the Big Island—appeal to all kinds of visitors. As you plan your trip to Hawaii, please confirm that places are still open and let us know when we need to make updates by writing to us at corrections@fodors.com.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Beaches: Every island claims its share of postcard-perfect strands.

Resorts: Spas, pools, lavish gardens, and golf courses make relaxing easy.

Pearl Harbor: This historic memorial site on Oahu is not to be missed.

Napali Coast: Kauai’s jagged emerald-green coast makes an unforgettable excursion.

Whale-watching: In winter humpback whales swim right off Maui’s shores.

Volcanoes National Park: On the Big Island you can explore the world’s most active volcano.

Contents

Cover

About This Book

Welcome to Hawaii

Hawaii Images

1 EXPERIENCE HAWAII

37 Ultimate Experiences

What’s Where

Hawaii Today

What to Eat and Drink in Hawaii

What to Buy in Hawaii

Flora and Fauna in Hawaii

Choosing Your Island

Kids and Families

Weddings and Honeymoons

The History of Hawaii

What to Read and Watch

2 TRAVEL SMART

Know Before You Go

Getting Here and Around

Essentials

Hawaiian Vocabulary

Great Itineraries

On the Calendar

Contacts

3 OAHU

Welcome to Oahu

Planning

Honolulu and Pearl Harbor

West (Leeward) and Central Oahu

The North Shore

Windward (East) Oahu

Activities and Tours

4 MAUI

Welcome to Maui

Planning

West Maui

The South Shore

Central Maui

Upcountry

The North Shore

Road to Hana

East Maui

Activities and Tours

5 THE BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII

Welcome to the Big Island of Hawaii

Planning

Kailua-Kona

South Kona

The Kohala Coast and Waimea

The Hamakua Coast

Hilo

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Puna, and Kau

Activities and Tours

6 KAUAI

Welcome to Kauai

Planning

The North Shore

The East Side

The South Shore

The West Side

Activities and Tours

7 MOLOKAI

Welcome to Molokai

Planning

West Molokai

Central Molokai

East Molokai

7 LANAI

Welcome to Lanai

Planning

Lanai City

Manele Bay

Windward Lanai

INDEX

COPYRIGHT

ABOUT OUR WRITERS

MAPS

Waikiki West

Waikiki East and Diamond Head

Downtown, Chinatown, Kakaako, and Ala Moana

Greater Honolulu

West (Leeward) and Central Oahu

North Shore

Windward (East) Oahu

Maui

West Maui

South Shore

Kahului and Wailuku

Upcountry, the North Shore, and East Maui

Road to Hana

Kailua-Kona

North Kona

South Kona

Kohala Coast

Waimea

Hamakua Coast

Downtown Hilo

Liliuokalani Gardens and Reeds Bay

Greater Hilo

Volcano Village

Puna and Kau

Kauai

The North Shore and Napali Coast

The East Side

The South Shore

The West Side

Molokai

Lanai

37 ULTIMATE Experiences

Hawaii offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

1 Oahu’s North Shore

Spend a day on the North Shore. Start off in Kaneohe and drive up Kamehameha Highway all the way to Haleiwa, stopping along the way at fruit stands, shrimp trucks, beaches, world-famous surfing spots (don’t miss Waimea Bay), and scenic overlooks. (Ch. 3)

2 Kona Coffee Plantation Tours

Local coffee farmers love to share their passion with the public, and most offer free tours. Kona coffee estate farms stretch from Holualoa to South Kona. (Ch. 5)

3 Horseback Riding

Saddle up and get ready to ride the ranges, cliffs, and trails of the Big Island on horseback. It’s one of the best ways to take in the island’s beautiful scenery. (Ch. 5)

4 Mountain Tubing

A century ago, Lihue Plantation dug waterways to irrigate its fields. Now you can take a tubing tour via the waterways for a glimpse of Kauai’s hidden interior. (Ch. 6)

5 Deep-Sea Fishing

The deep Pacific waters surrounding Kauai are teeming with fish. Charters, which depart from Lihue or Port Allen, visit the best spots and provide all the gear. (Ch. 6)

6 Small-Town Maui Charm

Discovered by hippies in the 1970s, Paia continues to be a hip and happening place with galleries, eateries, antique stores, and, of course, surf shops. (Ch. 4)

7 Snorkeling in Hanauma Bay

This nature preserve nestled in a volcanic crater with a vibrant reef is a phenomenal, family-friendly place to see colorful fish and other sea life. Advance reservations are now required. (Ch. 3)

8 Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Witness the primal birth of living land from two eruption sites flowing from the Big Island’s Kilauea Volcano, currently the world’s most active volcano. (Ch. 5)

9 Whale-Watching

Humpback whales hang out in the Auau Channel off Maui every winter; boats leaving from Lahaina can be in the midst of these gentle giants within 15 minutes. (Ch. 4)

10 Learning to Surf

On Oahu, Waikiki’s many surf schools make it popular with beginners. Less-crowded White Plains has better novice conditions as well as lots of surf amenities. (Ch. 3)

11 Attending a Luau

Guests are treated to Hawaiian-style storytelling, complete with hula dancing, traditional knife dancing, and fire poi ball throwing at traditional luaus. (Ch. 3–8)

12 Shave Ice on Oahu

Matsumoto’s on the North Shore may be the most well-known, but many (including former president Barack Obama) prefer Island Snow in Kailua. (Ch. 3)

13 Golfing with a View

Maui is heaven for any golfer. Here you’ll find perfectly stunning weather, gorgeous views, and fantastic course layouts for any skill level. (Ch. 4)

14 Beaches

The Big Island’s most beautiful beaches, including Anaehoomalu Bay, Hapuna Beach, and Kaunaoa Beach, flank the Kohala Coast. (Ch. 5)

15 Sacred Heiaus

Remains of sacred structures of the Kauai kingdom are found in Wailua along Route 580 between the mouth of the Wailua River and Mt. Waialeale. (Ch. 6)

16 Waimea Canyon

A vast canyon on Kauai’s West Side, this geologic wonder measures a mile wide, more than 14 miles long and 3,600 feet deep. (Ch. 6)

17 Pro Surfers at Waimea Bay

During winter, when waves can crest past 20 feet, Waimea Bay is one of the best places in the world to watch the pros catch the big ones. (Ch. 3)

18 Pearl Harbor

You can’t go to Oahu and skip a visit to Pearl Harbor National Memorial, which preserves the USS Arizona and other World War II sites. (Ch. 3)

19 The Big Island Lava Tubes

Thurston Lava Tube in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is convenient; Kula Kai Caverns and Kilauea Caverns of Fire are fascinating but require expert guides. (Ch. 5)

20 Diving at the Cathedrals of Lanai

These lava tubes comprise one of Maui’s primo diving spots (technically off Lanai) boasting a variety of multicolored fish, eels, turtles, dolphins, and octopi. (Ch. 8)

21 The Waipio Valley

This lush, waterfall-laden valley—surrounded by sheer, fluted 2,000-foot cliffs—was once a favorite retreat for Hawaiian royalty. (Ch. 5)

22 Plate Lunches

Everyone should try this bargain-priced Hawaii lunch tradition: loco moco, an entrée with white rice and a scoop of macaroni salad. It’s an island favorite. (Ch. 3)

23 Iolani Palace

The only royal residence in the United States gives you an introduction to Hawaii’s monarchy era, which ended with the overthrow of Queen Liliuokalani in 1893. (Ch. 3)

24 Sunrises in Haleakala National Park

Haleakala National Park’s Puuulaula Overlook is Maui’s highest point and the best place to see the sunrise. On a clear day, you can see Molokai, Lanai, and Hawaii Island. (Ch. 4)

25 Kauai’s Poipu Beach

Popular with tourists and locals, Poipu Beach has calm waters ideal for snorkeling, and you might just spot an endangered Hawaiian monk seal. (Ch. 6)

26 Hula Shows

For a more traditional, less touristy introduction to hula and Hawaiian music, go to the free hula show that’s held several nights a week on Kuhio Beach. (Ch. 3)

27 Molokini Crater

Tropical fish thrive at Molokini Crater, a partially submerged crater about 3 miles off Maui’s southern coast that serves as a fortress against the waves. (Ch. 4)

28 The Road to Hana

One of the world’s most famous drives, this dangerous road has more than 600 curves and crosses some 50 gulch-straddling bridges in 52 coastline miles. (Ch. 4)

29 Helicopter Vistas

Kauai’s interior is best seen via helicopter. Tours give access to breathtaking scenery like Napali Coast and Waimea Canyon. (Ch. 6)

30 Kayaking the Wailua River

Only Kauai has navigable rivers. Kayaking up the Wailua River leads you into a mystical realm of lush rain forests, velvety green mountains, and secret, crystal-clear waterfalls. (Ch. 6)

31 Waikiki

The best way to enjoy Waikiki’s famed tourist strip is by foot: skip the traffic, burn off some mai tai calories, and catch the sights you might otherwise miss. (Ch. 3)

32 Green-Sand Beaches

It’s worth the effort to drive to the end of South Point Road in Kau and hike about 3 miles to stunning, olivine Papakolea Beach. Take lots of water. (Ch. 5)

33 Learning About the Sea

Maui Ocean Center is one of the island’s top-rated attractions, introducing you to native and endemic marine life and local culture. (Ch. 4)

34 Haleakala National Park’s Bamboo Forest

The park’s 4-mile round-trip Pipiwai Trail, which many consider the island’s best hike, is a dramatic realm of plunging waterfalls, archaic ferns, and an immense bamboo forest. (Ch. 4)

35 Napali Coast Sunset Sails

Kauai sunsets are sublime, and perhaps the best way to experience that magical hour of the day is by boat, facing the stunning Napali Coast. (Ch. 6)

36 Stargazing at Maunakea

The sunset and stargazing at Maunakea’s summit are both outstanding. The visitor center at 9,200 feet (as high as most rental cars are allowed to go) is open daily. (Ch. 5)

37 Iao Valley

Central Maui’s iconic, green-mantled natural spire rises 1,200 feet above a verdant valley; go early in the day before clouds obscure the views. (Ch. 4)

WHAT’S WHERE

Oahu. Honolulu and Waikiki are here—and it’s a great big luau. The island has hot restaurants and lively nightlife as well as gorgeous white-sand beaches, knife-edged mountain ranges, and cultural sites, including Pearl Harbor.

Maui. The phrase “Maui no ka oi” means Maui is the best, the most, the tops. There’s good reason for the superlatives. It’s got a little of everything, perfect for families with divergent interests.

Big Island of Hawaii. It has two faces, watched over by snowcapped Maunakea and steaming Mauna Loa. The Kona side has parched, lava-strewn lowlands, and eastern Hilo is characterized by lush flower farms, waterfalls, and fresh lava forming daily.

Kauai. This is the “Garden Island,” and it’s where you’ll find the lush, green, folding sea cliffs of Napali Coast; the colorful and awesome Waimea Canyon; and more beaches per mile of coastline than any other Hawaiian island.

Molokai. It’s the least changed, most laid-back of the Islands. Come here to ride a mule down a cliff to Kalaupapa Peninsula; to experience the Kamakou Preserve, a 2,774-acre wildlife refuge; and for plenty of peace and quiet.

Lanai. For years, there was nothing here except for pineapples and red-dirt roads. In 2012, Oracle billionaire Larry Ellison purchased 98% of the island, and it still attracts the well-heeled in search of privacy, with two upscale resorts, archery and shooting, four-wheel-drive excursions, and superb scuba diving.

Hawaii Today

Hawaiian culture and tradition have experienced a renaissance over the last few decades. There’s been a real effort to revive traditions and to respect history as the Islands go through major changes. New resort developments often have a Hawaiian cultural expert on staff to ensure cultural sensitivity and to educate newcomers. Nonetheless, development itself remains the biggest issue for all Islanders, with land prices still skyrocketing, putting popular areas out of reach for locals. Traffic is becoming a problem on roads that were not designed to accommodate all the drivers (affecting Oahu, Kauai and Maui especially), and the Islands’ limited natural resources are being seriously tapped while 90% of Hawaii’s food and energy are still imported despite government efforts to increase sustainability.

But the destruction of Lahaina on Maui by a wildfire in August 2023 was the most traumatic event the Islands have witnessed for decades and the single most destructive event since Hurricane Iniki in 1992. It will take Maui years to recover, and planning for rebuilding is only in its infancy.

SUSTAINABILITY

Solar power is making a major inroad in power production: on some sunny days, for a few hours, the Kauai electric grid is 100% powered by alternative energy sources. In fact, Kauai leads the state in alternative energy solutions, including hydro.

The large-scale growing of pineapple or sugarcane, which dominated Hawaii for generations, has largely disappeared. When Maui Pineapple Co. halted production in 2009, a group of former employees started Maui Gold Pineapple Co., cultivating fields on the lower slopes of Haleakala to supply the fresh fruit market with its sweeter, less acidic pineapple variety. The loss of large-scale agriculture is slowly opening the door to more diversified farming, including coffee, fruit orchards, livestock grazing, and biofuels.

Oahu has begun educating its communities on the importance of keeping beaches and oceans clean and ensuring that marine life and reefs remain healthy. You won’t find plastic straws in your cocktails on Oahu, where plastic shopping bags are also prohibited (so pack reusable bags, if needed). Further, all sunblock sold here must be reef-safe, the result of a January 2021 mandate, and the city of Honolulu has committed to create a carbon-neutral economy, using renewable energy, a green infrastructure, and sustainable waste management.

Hawaii Tourism’s newly introduced Malama Hawaii program (wwww.gohawaii.com/malama) encourages travelers to be mindful while experiencing the Islands—by visiting with kokua (care) and kuleana (responsibility); by finding ways to malama (give back) to the land through volunteer programs; and by buying local to support the many great family-run shops and restaurants.

TOURISM AND THE ECONOMY

Tourism is by far the state’s most important industry. In 2022, nearly 10 million visitors arrived in Hawaii. According to the Hawaii Tourism Authority, there were, on average, more than 250,000 visitors in the Islands on any given day, spending about $17.8 billion in 2019 alone, up 1% from 2018. The worldwide COVID pandemic stopped Hawaii tourism in its tracks for at least a year, a mixed blessing. Residents could enjoy uncrowded beaches and roads, but the state suffered economically from the effects of layoffs, lockdowns, and closures. Mask requirements and testing/vaccination protocols prior to arrival combined to make Hawaii one of the safest places to visit during most of 2020–2021. But the economy may take several more years to fully recover.

Attuned to local attitudes and visitor demand for more authentic experiences, the tourism industry has adopted more ecoconscious practices. Many residents feel development shouldn’t happen without regard for impacts on neighboring communities and the natural environment.

The belief that an industry based on the Hawaiians’ aloha (welcome, love and fellowship) should protect, promote, and empower local culture and provide more entrepreneurial opportunities for local people have become more critical of tourism businesses. More companies are incorporating Hawaiiana programs and traditional cultural values in their policies and practices, and aim not only to provide a commercially viable tour but also to ensure that visitors leave feeling connected to their host.

The concept of kuleana, a word denoting both privilege and responsibility, is a traditional value. Having the privilege to live in such a sublime place comes with the responsibility to protect it.

SOVEREIGNTY

Political sovereignty issues continue to divide Native Hawaiians, who have formed diverse organizations, each operating with separate agendas and lacking one collectively defined goal. Ranging from achieving complete independence to solidifying a nation within a nation, existing sovereignty models remain fractured and their future unresolved. However, the sovereignty movement began gaining new traction in 2019 as Hawaiians formed a protest site at the base of Mauna Kea to prevent the building of the Thirty Meter Telescope at the summit of the mountain, a place considered sacred by many; although state courts have ruled in favor of the telescope, negotiations continue. The camp of the “protectors” (their preferred name) includes daily protocol that includes hula, chanting, and prayers, as well as free health care, meals, and a university. Ripple effects from this protector movement have been seen across the Islands, particularly on Oahu, and a new political party has formed to address issues of particular interest to Native Hawaiians.

The Native Hawaiian Government Reorganization Act of 2009, introduced by the late Senator Daniel Akaka, would have granted Native Hawaiians federal recognition similar to Native American status, but it has never passed.

RISE OF HAWAIIAN PRIDE

After the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893, a process of Americanization began. Traditions were duly silenced in the name of citizenship. Teaching the Hawaiian language was banned from schools, and children were distanced from their local customs.

But Hawaiians are resilient people, and with the rise of the civil rights movement they began to reflect on their own national identity, bringing an astonishing renaissance of the Hawaiian culture to fruition.

The people rediscovered language, hula, chanting, and even the traditional Polynesian art of canoe building and wayfinding (navigation by the stars without use of instruments). This cultural resurrection is now firmly established in today’s Hawaiian culture, with a palpable pride that exudes from Hawaiians young and old.

What to Eat and Drink in Hawaii

SHAVE ICE

Shave ice (never “shaved” ice) is simple in its composition—fluffy ice drizzled in Technicolor syrups. Shave ice traces its roots to Hawaii’s plantation past. Japanese laborers would use the machetes from their field work to finely shave ice from large frozen blocks and then pour fruit juice over it.

MUSUBI

Musubi are Hawaii’s answer to the perfect snack. Portable, handheld, and salty, musubi are a great go-to any time of day. The local comfort food is a slice of fried Spam encased in packed white rice and snugly wrapped with nori, or dried seaweed. Available everywhere, musubi are usually just a few dollars.

MAI TAI

When people think of a Hawaiian cocktail, the colorful mai tai often comes to mind. It’s the unofficial drink to imbibe at a luau and refreshingly tropical. This potent concoction has a rum base and is traditionally made with orange curaçao, orgeat, fresh-squeezed lime juice, and simple syrup.

HAWAIIAN PLATE LUNCH

The Hawaiian plate lunch comprises the delicious, traditional foods of Hawaii, all on one heaping plate. You can find these combo meals anywhere, from roadside lunch wagons to five-star restaurants. Get yours with the melt-in-your-mouth shredded kalua pig, pork, or chicken laulau (cooked in ti leaves) with lomi lomi salmon (diced salmon with tomatoes and onions) on the side and the coconut-milk haupia for dessert. Most Hawaiian plates come with the requisite two scoops of white rice. Don’t forget to try poi, or pounded and cooked taro.

POKE

In Hawaiian, poke is a verb that means to slice and cut into pieces. It perfectly describes the technique Hawaiians have used for centuries to prepare poke the dish. The cubed raw fish, most commonly ahi (yellowfin tuna), is traditionally tossed with Hawaiian sea salt, limu kohu (red seaweed), or inamona (crushed kukui nuts). Today, countless varieties of this must-try dish are served in all kinds of restaurants across the Islands. Poke shacks offer no-frills, made-to-order poke.

SAIMIN

This only-in-Hawaii noodle dish is the culinary innovation of Hawaii plantation workers in the late 1800s who created a new comfort food with ingredients and traditions from their home countries.

MANAPUA

When kamaaina, or Hawaii residents, are invited to a potluck, business meeting, or even an impromptu party, inevitably there will be a box filled with manapua. Inside these airy white buns are pockets of sweet char siu pork. Head to cities and towns around the Islands, and you’ll find restaurants with manapua on their menus, as well as manapua takeout places serving a variety of fillings. There’s sweet potato, curry chicken, lap cheong (or Chinese sausage)—and even sweet flavors, such as custard and ube, a purple yam popular in Filipino desserts.

MALASADA

Malasadas are a beloved treat in Hawaii. The Portuguese pastries are about the size of a baseball and are airy, deep-fried, and dusted with sugar. They are best enjoyed hot and filled with custard; fillings are a Hawaiian variation on the original.

LOCO MOCO

The traditional version of one of Hawaii’s classic comfort-food dishes consists of white rice topped with a hamburger patty and fried eggs and generously blanketed in rich, brown gravy. Cafe 100 in Hilo on the Big Island is renowned as the home of the loco moco, but you’ll find this popular staple everywhere. It can be eaten any time of day.

KONA COFFEE

In Kona, on the Big Island, coffee reigns supreme. There are roughly 600 coffee farms dotting the west side of the island, each producing flavorful (and quite expensive) coffee grown in the rich, volcanic soil. Kona coffee is typically hand-harvested from August through December.

What to Buy in Hawaii

LEI

As a visitor to Hawaii, you may well receive a lei, either a shell, kukui nut, or fragrant flower variety, as a welcome to the Islands. Kamaaina (Hawaii residents) mark special occasions by gifting lei.

MACADAMIA NUT CANDY

Macadamia nuts are native to Australia, but the gumball-sized nut remains an important crop in Hawaii. It was first introduced in the late 1880s as a windbreak for sugarcane crops. Today, mac nuts are a popular local snack and are especially good baked in cookies or other desserts.

LAUHALA

The hala tree is most known for its long, thin leaves and the masterful crafts that are created from them. Lauhala weavers make baskets, hats, mats, jewelry, and more, using intricate traditional patterns and techniques.

JEWELRY

Island-inspired jewelry comes in many styles. Tahitian pearl pendants and earrings are a local favorite, as are delicate, inexpensive shell pieces. The most coveted are Hawaiian heirloom bracelets in gold or silver with one’s name enameled in Old English script.

ALOHA WEAR

Aloha wear in Hawaii has come a long way from the polyester fabrics with too-bright, kitschy patterns (although those still exist). Local designers have been creating dressy, modern aloha attire with softer prints that evoke Island botanicals, heritage, and traditional patterns. Hawaii residents don aloha wear for everything from work to weddings.

HAWAIIAN COFFEE

Reminisce about your Hawaii getaway each time you brew a cup of aromatic, full-bodied coffee, whether it’s from Kona or Kauai. All the main islands grow distinctive coffee. Stores and cafés sell bags of varying sizes, and in some places you can buy directly from a farmer.

HAWAIIAN HONEY

With its temperate climate and bountiful foliage, Hawaii is ideal for honeybees. Its unique ecosystem yields honeys with robust flavors and textures, including elixirs extracted from the blossoms of the macadamia nut tree, the lehua flower, and the invasive Christmas berry shrub.

KOA WOOD

If you’re looking for an heirloom keepsake from the Islands, consider a koa wood product. Grown only in Hawaii, the valuable koa is some of the world’s rarest and hardest wood. Hawaiians traditionally made surfboards and canoes from these trees, which today grow only in upland forests.

HAWAIIAN SEA SALT

A long tradition of harvesting salt beds by hand continues today on all the Islands. The salt comes in various colors, including inky black and brick red—the result of the salt reacting and mixing with activated charcoal and alaea (volcanic clay). It is renowned by chefs around the state.

UKULELE

In Hawaiian, ukulele means “the jumping flea.” The small instrument made its way to the Islands in the 1880s via Portuguese immigrants who brought with them the four-string, guitarlike machete de braga. It is famous as a solo instrument today, with virtuoso artists like Jake Shimabukuro and Taimane Gardner popularizing the ukulele’s versatile sound.

Flora and Fauna in Hawaii

PLUMERIA

Also known as frangipani, this fragrant flower is named after Charles Plumier, the noted French botanist who discovered it in Central America in the late 1600s. Plumeria come in shades of white, yellow, pink, red, and orange. The hearty, plentiful blossoms are frequently used in lei.

KUKUI

The kukui, or candlenut, is Hawaii’s state tree, and Hawaiians have had many uses for it. Oil was extracted from its nuts and burned as a light source and also rubbed on fishing nets to preserve them. The juice from the husk’s fruit was used as a dye. The small kukui blossoms and nuts also have medicinal purposes.

GARDENIA

The gardenia is a favorite for lei makers because of its sweet smell. The plant is native to tropical regions throughout China and Africa, but there are also endemic gardenias in Hawaii. The nanu gardenia is found only in the Islands and has petite white blossoms.

HONU

The honu, or Hawaiian green sea turtle, is a magical sight. The graceful reptile is an endangered and protected species in Hawaii. It’s easier to encounter honu during a snorkeling or scuba-diving excursion, but they occasionally can be spotted basking on beaches.

HUMPBACK WHALES

Each year, North Pacific humpback whales make the long journey to Hawaii from Alaska. With its warm, protected waters, Hawaii provides the ideal place for the marine mammals to mate and to birth and to nurse their young. They arrive between November and May, and their presence is an anticipated event. You can see them up close during whale-watching boat tours.

MONK SEAL

Known as the ilio holo i ka uaua, meaning “dog that runs in rough water,” monk seals are endemic to Hawaii and critically endangered. The majority of these mammals, which can grow to more than 7 feet long, live in the remote, uninhabited Northwestern Hawaiian Islands.

TROPICAL FISH

Approximately 25% of the fish species in the Islands are endemic. Snorkeling in Hawaii is a unique, fun opportunity to see colorful fish found nowhere else on Earth. Interestingly, Hawaii’s state fish, the humuhumunukunukuapuaa, or reef trigger, is not endemic to the state.

NENE GOOSE

Pronounced nay-nay, the endemic nene goose (Hawaii’s state bird) is one of the world’s rarest. A descendant of the Canada goose, it has been bred back from the edge of extinction and reintroduced into the wild. Use caution driving in national and state parks, which they frequent.

HIBISCUS

In 1923, the Territory of Hawaii passed a law designating hibiscus as Hawaii’s official flower. While there are more than 30 introduced species of the large, colorful flowers throughout the Islands, there are five endemic types. The endemic hibiscus has yellow blossoms and is known in Hawaiian as mao hau hele, which means the “traveling green tree.”

PIKAKE

These small, delicate blossoms are known for their hypnotic, sweet scent. The jasmine flower was introduced from India and was a favorite of Princess Kaiulani. Pikake, which is the Hawaiian word for the blossom as well as for a peacock—another favorite of the princess—is the subject of many mele, or Hawaiian songs.

Choosing Your Island

You’ve decided to go to Hawaii, but should you stay put and relax on one island or try sampling more than one? If all you have is a week, it is probably best to stick to just one island. You traveled all this way, why spend your precious vacation time at car-rental counters, hotel check-in desks, and airports? But, with seven or more nights, a little island-hopping is a great way to experience the diversity of sights and experiences that are packed into this small state. Here are some of our favorite island-pairing itineraries for every type of trip.

FAMILY TRAVEL: OAHU AND MAUI

If you’re traveling with children, Oahu and Maui have the most options.

Why Oahu: Oahu is by far the most kid-friendly island. For sea life, visit the Waikiki Aquarium and Sea Life Park or let the little ones get up close and personal with fish at Hanauma Bay. At Pearl Harbor, you can visit an aircraft carrier or, if the kids are at least four, a World War II submarine. Then there’s the Honolulu Zoo and a slippery slide–filled water park, not to mention some very family-friendly and safe beaches. Plan to spend 4 nights.

Why Maui: Whales! Though you can see whales from any island between November and April, there’s no better place than Maui. If your visit doesn’t fall during peak whale-watching season, visit the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary or the Maui Ocean Center (to get an up-close look at some of Hawaii’s smaller sea creatures). Away from the water, there’s the Sugar Cane Train. Plan to spend at least 3 nights.

ROMANCE: MAUI AND KAUAI

If you’re getting away for seclusion, romantic walks along the beach, and the pampering at world-class spas, consider Maui and Kauai.

Why Maui: You’ll find waterfalls, salt-and-pepper sand beaches, and incredible views as you follow the twisting turning Road to Hana. The luxury resorts in Wailea or Kaanapali provide lots of fine dining and spa treatment options. And for those who want to start their day early, there’s the drive up to Haleakala to see the sun rise—or for couples who prefer to sleep in, there’s the arguably even more spectacular sunset from the summit. Plan to spend 4 nights.

Why Kauai: The North Shore communities of Hanalei and Princeville provide the opportunity to get away and indulge in some spectacular beaches, hiking, and helicopter rides. At Princeville, you can experience views straight out of South Pacific as well as excellent dining and spas. Or stay at a romantic smaller hotel such as Koa Kea Hotel & Resort on beautiful Poipu Beach. Plan to spend at least 3 nights.

GOLF, SHOPPING, AND LUXURY: MAUI AND THE BIG ISLAND

For luxurious travel, great shopping, restaurants, and accommodations you can’t beat Maui and the Big Island.

Why Maui: The resorts at Wailea and Kaanapali have endless options for dining, shopping, and spa treatments. And, the golf on Maui can’t be beat with Kapalua, the Dunes at Maui Lani, and Makena Resort topping the list of spectacular courses. Plan to spend 4 nights.

Why the Big Island: In addition to having incredible natural scenery, the Big Island offers world-class resorts and golfing along the Kohala Coast. The Mauna Kea and Hapuna golf courses rank among the top in state while the courses at Mauna Lani Resort and Waikoloa Village allow the unusual experience of playing in and around lava flows. Gourmet dining and spa treatments are readily available at the top resorts, and you’ll find shopping opportunities at King’s Shops at Waikoloa Village as well as within many of the resorts themselves. Or, travel to Hawi or Waimea (Kamuela) for authentic island boutiques. Plan to spend at least 3 nights.

NATURAL BEAUTY AND PRISTINE BEACHES: THE BIG ISLAND AND KAUAI

Really want to get away and experience nature at its most primal? The Big Island is the place to start, followed by a trip to Kauai.

Why the Big Island: Home to 11 different climate zones, the Big Island is large enough to contain all the other Hawaiian Islands. There are countless options for those who want to get off the beaten track and get their hands (and feet) dirty—or sandy as the case may be. See lava flowing or steam rising from Kilauea. Visit beaches in your choice of gold, white, green, or black sand. Snorkel or dive just offshore from an ancient Hawaiian settlement. Or, hike through rain forests to hidden waterfalls. The choices are endless on this island. Plan to spend at least 4 nights.

Why Kauai: The Napali Coast is the main draw for those seeking secluded beaches and incredible scenery. If you’re interested in hiking to otherwise inaccessible beaches along sheer sea cliffs, this is as good as it gets. Or, head up to Waimea Canyon to see the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” Want waterfalls? Opaekaa Falls outside Lihue is one of the state’s most breathtaking. And there’s no better place for bird-watching than Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge. Plan to spend at least 3 nights.

VOLCANIC VIEWS: THE BIG ISLAND AND MAUI

For those coming to Hawaii for the volcanoes, there are really only two options: the Big Island and Maui.

Why the Big Island: Start by flying into Hilo and head straight to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and Kilauea Volcano. Plan to spend at least two days at Kilauea—you’ll need time to really explore the caldera, drive to the end of Chain of Craters Road, and have some time for hiking in and around this active volcano. While eruptions are unpredictable (and more rare these days), helicopter companies can get you views of otherwise inaccessible lava flows. You can also make a visit up to the summit of Maunakea with a tour company. From here you’ll see views not only of the observatories (Maunakea is one of the best places in the world for astronomy), but also Kilauea and Haleakala volcanoes, which loom in the distance. Plan to spend at least 4 nights.

Why Maui: Though all the islands in Hawaii were built from the same hot spot in Earth’s crust, the only other island to have had volcanic activity in recorded history is Maui, at Haleakala. The House of the Sun (as Haleakala is known) has great hiking and camping opportunities. Plan to spend 3 nights.

Kids and Families

With dozens of adventures, discoveries, and fun-filled beach days, Hawaii is a blast with kids. Even better, the things to do here do not appeal only to small fry. The entire family, parents included, will enjoy surfing, discovering a waterfall in the rain forest, and snorkeling with sea turtles. And there are plenty of organized activities for kids that will free parents’ time for a few romantic beach strolls.

CHOOSING A PLACE TO STAY

Condos: Condo and vacation rentals are a fantastic value for families vacationing in Hawaii. You can cook your own food, which is cheaper than eating out and sometimes easier (especially if you have a finicky eater in your group), and you’ll get twice the space of a hotel room. If you decide to go the condo route, verify the legal status of your rental before booking. Shifting regulations vary by island, with Oahu being among the strictest (some Maui condos are being set aside for displaced Lahaina residents).

Resorts: All the big resorts make kids’ programs a priority, and it shows. When you are booking your room, ask about “kids eat free” deals and the number of kids’ pools at the resort. Also check out the size of the groups in the children’s programs, and find out whether the cost of the programs includes lunch, equipment, and activities.

OCEAN ACTIVITIES

Hawaii is all about getting your kids outside—away from TV and video games. And who could resist the turquoise water; the promise of spotting dolphins or whales; and the fun of bodyboarding, snorkeling, or surfing?

On the beach: Most people like being in the water, but toddlers and school-age kids are often completely captivated by Hawaii’s beaches. The swimming pool at your condo or hotel is always an option, but don’t be afraid to hit the beach with a little one in tow. There are several in Hawaii that are nearly as safe as a pool—completely protected bays with pleasant white-sand beaches. As always, use your judgment, and heed all posted signs and lifeguard warnings.

On the waves: Surf lessons are a great idea for older kids, especially if Mom and Dad want a little quiet time. Beginner lessons are always on safe and easy waves and last anywhere from two to four hours.

The underwater world: If your kids are ready to try snorkeling, Hawaii is a great place to introduce them to the underwater world. Even without the mask and snorkel, they’ll be able to see colorful fish darting this way and that, and they may also spot turtles and dolphins at many of the island beaches.

LAND ACTIVITIES

In addition to beach experiences, Hawaii has rain forests, botanical gardens, aquariums (Oahu and Maui), and even petting zoos and hands-on children’s museums that will keep your kids entertained and out of the sun for a day.

AFTER DARK

At night, younger kids get a kick out of luau, and many of the shows incorporate young audience members, adding to the fun. The older kids might find it all a bit lame, but there are a handful of new shows in the Islands that are more modern, incorporating acrobatics, lively music, and fire dancers. If you’re planning on hitting a luau with a teen in tow, we highly recommend going the modern route.

Weddings and Honeymoons

Hawaii is one of the country’s foremost honeymoon destinations. Romance is in the air here, and the white sandy beaches, turquoise water, swaying palm trees, balmy tropical breezes, and brilliant sunshine put people in the mood for love. So it goes without saying that Hawaii has also become a popular wedding destination, especially as new resorts and hotels entice visitors and with same-sex marriage legal. Once the knot is tied, why not stay for the honeymoon?

THE BIG DAY

Choosing the perfect place: You really have two decisions to make: the ceremony location and where to hold a reception. For the former, Hawaii boasts stunning beaches, sea-hugging bluffs, gardens, private residences, resort lawns, and, of course, places of worship. As for the reception, there are these same choices, as well as restaurants or even a luau. If you decide to go outdoors, make sure to have a backup plan for inclement weather. If you’re taking the plunge on a public beach, a state permit is required.

Finding a wedding planner: If you’re planning to invite more than an officiant and your loved one to your ceremony, consider a Hawaii-based wedding planner, who can help select a location, design the floral scheme, and recommend photographers, hairstylists, and makeup artists. They can also plan the menu, choose a restaurant or caterer, and suggest Hawaiian traditions to incorporate into your vows. If it’s a resort wedding, most have on-site wedding coordinators; however, there are many independent planners around Kauai who specialize in certain types of ceremonies—by locale, size, religious affiliation, and so on. Share your budget. Get a proposal—in writing. Request a detailed list of the exact services they’ll provide. If possible, meet the planner in person.

Getting your license: There’s no waiting period in Hawaii, no residency or citizenship requirements, and no required blood tests or shots. You can apply and pay the fee online; however, both partners must appear together in person before an agent to receive the marriage license at the State Department of Health, The Wine Shop in Koloa, or an independent agent. You’ll need proof of age—the legal age to marry is 18. Upon approval, a marriage license is immediately issued and costs $60. After the ceremony, your officiant will mail the marriage certificate to the state. Approximately four months later, you will receive a copy in the mail. The person performing your wedding must be licensed by the Hawaii Department of Health, even if he or she is a licensed officiant. Be sure to ask.

Wedding attire: In Hawaii, anything goes, from long formal dresses with trains to bikinis. For men, a pair of solid-color slacks with a nice aloha shirt is appropriate. If you’re getting hitched on the beach, why not go barefoot?

Local customs: The most obvious traditional Hawaiian wedding custom is the lei exchange, in which the bride and groom take turns placing a lei around the neck of the other—with a kiss. Bridal lei are usually floral, whereas the groom’s is typically made of twisted ti leaves or maile, a green leafy garland. Brides often also wear a lei poo, a circular floral headpiece.

THE HONEYMOON

Do you want champagne and strawberries delivered to your room? A breathtaking swimming pool? A five-star restaurant? Then a resort is the way to go. A small inn is also good if you’re on a tight budget or don’t plan to spend much time in your room. The lodging choices are almost as plentiful as the beaches here.

The History of Hawaii

THE POLYNESIANS

Years before the eras of the Vikings and Christopher Columbus, Polynesian seafarers embarked on journeys across the boundless ocean in wooden, double-hulled canoes. These were no chance voyages—these adventurers possessed an intricate understanding of celestial navigation and sailing. Originating from western Polynesia, they navigated between Samoa, Fiji, Tahiti, the Marquesas, and the Society Isles. By AD 300, they had established settlements in far-flung places like Hawaii and Easter Island.

Around AD 1200, the pinnacle of Polynesian voyaging was reached. Following this, the distant Hawaiian Islands evolved independently, fostering distinct cultural practices and ways of life. The community on these islands beautifully blended religion, mythology, science, and artistry. Each settlement, overseen by an alii, a chief, existed within an ahupuaa, a pie-shaped division of land that extended from the mountains, through the valleys to the shores. Everyone played a crucial role such as crafting canoes, fishing, or farming.

THE HAWAIIAN KINGDOM

In 1778, when Captain James Cook arrived in Kealakekua Bay on the Big Island, the Hawaiians welcomed him warmly with a sense of great importance. The trade that followed, including the acquisition of guns from foreign ships, provided Kamehameha the Great, the chief of the Big Island, with a strategic advantage over other chiefs. This led to the unification of Hawaii into a single kingdom in 1810, putting an end to the frequent interisland battles that had long defined Hawaiian life.

However, the new kingdom faced many challenges. Native religion was abandoned, and traditions, including kapu (laws and regulations) were eventually discarded. In addition, the European explorers brought devastating diseases that decimated the Native Hawaiian population within a few decades.

The fabric of pre-contact Hawaii began to unravel with new laws affecting land ownership and religious practices. As Western influences permeated Hawaiian culture, social unrest took root, marking a major shift in the island’s way of life, including the loss of the Hawaiian language.

MODERN HAWAII

In 1893, Queen Liliuokalani, the last Hawaiian monarch, was overthrown by American and European leaders, backed by an armed militia. This upheaval created the Republic of Hawaii, paving the way for 60 years as a U.S. territory. The scars of lost sovereignty and the terms of annexation have lingered, haunting the Hawaiian people since the monarchy’s abrupt end.

In 1941, the attack on Oahu’s Pearl Harbor thrust the U.S. into World War II. This surprise bombing destroyed or damaged many military ships and airplanes, and killed over 2,000 people. Visitors are encouraged to visit the memorial, which includes the battleships USS Arizona and USS Missouri, to pay tribute to the fallen.

Hawaii’s complex history continued to evolve and in 1959, Hawaii officially became the 50th U.S. state. Despite ongoing challenges, a cultural revival known as the Hawaiian Renaissance began in the 1960s among the Native Hawaiian community, including resurrecting the hula, reviving voyaging canoes, and reinvigorating Hawaiian art, music, and language. Today, tourists can learn about the culture and even volunteer through the Malama Aina project, (meaning “to care for the land”).

What to Read and Watch

HAWAIIAN MYTHOLOGY BY MARTHA BECKWITH

This exhaustive work of ethnology and folklore was researched and collected by Martha Beckwith over decades and published when she was 69. Hawaiian Mythology is a comprehensive look at the Hawaiian ancestral deities and their importance throughout history.

HAWAII’S STORY BY HAWAII’S QUEEN BY LILIUOKALANI

This poignant book by Queen Liliuokalani chronicles the 1893 overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy and her plea for her people. It’s an essential read to understand the political undercurrent and the push for sovereignty that exists in the Islands more than 125 years later.

LETTERS FROM HAWAII BY MARK TWAIN

In 1866, when Samuel Clemens was 31, he sailed from California and spent four months in Hawaii. He eventually mailed 25 letters to the Sacramento Union newspaper about his experiences. Along the way, Twain sheds some cultural biases as he visits Kilauea Volcano, meets with Hawaii’s newly formed legislators, and examines the sugar trade.

SHOAL OF TIME: A HISTORY OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS BY GAVAN DAWS

Perhaps the most popular book by this best-selling Honolulu author is Shoal of Time. Published in 1974, the account of modern Hawaiian history details the colonization of Hawaii and everything that was lost in the process.

MOLOKAI BY ALAN BRENNERT

The writer’s debut novel, set in the 1890s, follows a Hawaiian woman who contracts leprosy as a child and is sent to the remote, quarantined community of Kalaupapa on the island of Molokai, where she then lives. The Southern California–based author was inspired to write the book during his visits to Hawaii.

HAWAII SAYS “ALOHA” BY DON BLANDING

First published in 1928, this volume of enchanting, rhyming verse about Hawaii evokes the rich details about the Islands that mesmerized the author in the 1920s and for the rest of his life. Blanding also illustrated this and many other books and was later named Hawaii’s poet laureate.

THE DESCENDANTS

Based on the book by local author Kaui Hart Hemmings, the film adaptation starring George Clooney and directed by Alexander Payne was filmed on Oahu and Kauai. It spotlights a contemporary, upper-class family in Hawaii as they deal with family grief and landholdings in flux.

BLUE HAWAII

The 1961 musical features the hip-shaking songs and moves of Elvis Presley, who plays tour guide Chadwick Gates. Elvis famously sings “Ke Kali Nei Au,” or “The Hawaiian Wedding Song,” at the iconic and now-shuttered Coco Palms Resort on Kauai. (The resort has remained closed since 1992 following Hurricane Iniki.)

MOANA

The release of Moana in 2016 was celebrated by many in Hawaii and the Pacific for showcasing Polynesian culture. The now-beloved animated movie, which tells the story of the demigod Maui, features the voice talents of Auli’i Cravalho and Dwayne Johnson. In 2018, Moana was rerecorded and distributed in Olelo Hawaii, or the Hawaiian language, with Cravalho reprising her role. It marked the first time a Disney movie was available in Hawaiian.

Know Before You Go

Do they really hand you a lei when you arrive? What are some common Hawaiian phrases? How can you help protect the coral? Traveling to Hawaii is an easy adventure, but we’ve got tips to make your trip seamless and more meaningful.

DON’T CALL IT “THE STATES”

Hawaii was admitted to the Union in 1959, so residents can be somewhat sensitive when visitors refer to their hometowns as “back in the States.” Instead, refer to the contiguous 48 states as “the continent.” You won’t appear to be such a malihini (newcomer) when you do.

WELCOME ISLAND-STYLE GREETINGS

Hawaii is a friendly place, which is reflected in the day-to-day encounters with friends, family, and even business associates. Women will often hug and kiss one another on the cheek, and men will shake hands and sometimes combine that with a friendly hug. When a man and woman greet each other and are good friends, it is not unusual for them to hug and kiss on the cheek. Children are taught to call all elders “auntie” or “uncle,” even if they aren’t related; it’s a way to show respect.

LOOK, BUT DON’T TOUCH

Help protect Hawaii’s wildlife by loving it from a distance. Stay at least 10 feet away from turtles on land and in the water, and 50 feet from monk seals, wherever you encounter them. Though they may not look it, corals are alive and fragile; harming them also harms the habitat for reef fish and other marine life. Avoid touching or stepping on coral, and take extra care when entering and exiting the water.

ENJOY A FRESH FLOWER LEI

When you walk off a long flight, nothing quite compares with a Hawaiian lei greeting. A lei is a symbol of love, respect, and Aloha. Each Island has its own designated lei, Maui has the pink lokelani or cottage rose. Though the tradition has created an expectation that everyone receives this floral garland when they step off the plane, the State of Hawaii cannot greet each of its more than 8 million annual visitors. If you’ve booked a vacation with a wholesaler or tour company, a lei greeting might be included in your package. If not, it’s easy to arrange a lei greeting before you arrive at Kahului Airport with Ali’i Greeting Service (P808/877–7088 waliigreetingservice.com). An orchid lei is considered standard and costs about $37 per person. You can tuck a single flower behind your ear; a flower behind the left ear means you are in a relationship or unavailable, while the right ear indicates you are looking for love.

APPRECIATE THE HAWAIIAN LANGUAGE

Hawaiian and English are both official state languages, the latter being more prominent. However, making an effort to learn some Hawaiian words can be rewarding. Hawaiian words you are most likely to encounter during your visit to the Islands are aloha (hello and good-bye), mahalo (thank you), keiki (child), haole (Caucasian or foreigner), mauka (toward the mountains), makai (toward the ocean), and pau (finished, all done). If you’d like to learn more Hawaiian words, check out wwehewehe.org.

LISTEN FOR HAWAII’S UNOFFICIAL LANGUAGE

Besides Hawaiian and English, there’s a third language spoken here. Hawaiian history includes waves of immigrants, each bringing their native language. To communicate, they developed a dialect known as Hawaiian Pidgin English, or “Pidgin” for short. In 2015, the U.S. Census added Hawaiian Pidgin to the list of official languages in Hawaii. If you listen closely, you will know what is said by the inflections and body language. For an informative and sometimes hilarious view of Pidgin, check out Pidgin to da Max by Douglas Simonson and Fax to da Max by Jerry Hopkins. Both are available at most local bookstores in the Hawaiiana sections and various stores. While it’s nice to appreciate this unique language, it’s not wise to emulate it, as it can be considered disrespectful.

BE MINDFUL OF LOCAL CUSTOMS

If you’re invited to the home of friends living in Hawaii (an ultimate compliment), bring an omiyage (small gift) and take off your shoes when you enter their house. Try to participate in a cultural festival during your stay in the Islands; there is no better way to get a glimpse of Hawaii’s mosaic of cultures and traditions.

INSECTS AND PESTS

It’s the tropics, so don’t be surprised if you encounter an extra-large flying cockroach at night or the occasional mosquito buzzing around you during the day. Pack insect repellent and anti-itch spray. A rare but emerging disease in Hawaii, rat lungworm disease, can be contracted by accidental consumption of a slug or slug residue hidden in lettuce or other types of vulnerable produce. Never eat fruit that you pick up off the ground. Think twice about eating locally grown lettuce unless it was grown hydroponically.

CHECK THE WEATHER

Of all the islands in the Hawaiian Islands chain, the Big Island is the most diverse in terms of weather. The variety of elevations and the vast expanse of differing topography produce weather patterns that can vary from one town to the next on any given day. Take, for example, the seaside enclave of Puako near Kawaihae in South Kohala. It can get searing hot and windy one moment, while just a 15-minute drive up the highway in Waimea, it could be chilly “sweater weather.” Some areas of the Big Island are incredibly rainy, like the entire town of Hilo; other areas stay relatively arid, such as the resort zones in South Kohala. At the higher elevations, such as in Volcano, it can get downright bone-chilling, with temperatures dropping into the low 40s on some nights. Pack accordingly and bring layers.

On Maui, it seems there’s a natural wonder around every corner. But don’t be caught off guard by the pretty vistas—the environment can change in an instant, and with little or no warning. Strong ocean currents, flash flooding, and rockslides are a real threat, especially during extreme weather events. If you’re hiking somewhere like Haleakala National Park, you’ll want to check the wind, rain, and snow conditions, as all three elements are common. The County of Maui offers safety tips for visitors (wco.maui.hi.us/oceansafety), and it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with local conditions before heading out on any adventure.

Kauai’s environment can change in an instant, and with little or no warning. Strong ocean currents, flash floods, and rockslides are a real threat, especially during extreme weather events. If you’re hiking, consult wind and rain conditions and predictions. Hurricane season runs from June to November.

BOOK YOUR RENTAL CAR IN ADVANCE

You can get away with not renting a car if you are staying in Waikiki on Oahu, but on most other islands, having one is almost a necessity. To ensure you get a car (and the best rates), reserve your car as far in advance as you can, especially around the holidays and summer breaks. On some islands, rental companies run out of cars during peak season or raise rates to ridiculous levels for last-minute renters.

Getting Here and Around
d Air

Flying time to Oahu or Maui is about 10 hours from New York, 8 hours from Chicago, and 5 hours from Los Angeles. Flying time to the Big Island or Kauai is 5½ hours from San Francisco, 6½ hours from Seattle.

All the major airline carriers serving Hawaii fly direct to Honolulu; some also offer nonstops to Maui, Kauai, and the Big Island, though most flights to the latter two come from the West Coast only. Honolulu International Airport, although open-air and seemingly more casual than most major airports, can be very busy. Allow extra travel time during busy mornings and afternoons.

Plants and plant products are subject to regulation by the Department of Agriculture, both on entering and leaving Hawaii. Upon leaving, you must have your bags x-rayed and tagged at the airport’s agricultural inspection station before proceeding to check-in. Pineapples and coconuts with the packer’s agricultural inspection stamp pass freely; papayas and certain other fruits must be treated, inspected, and stamped. But most other fruits are banned for export to the U.S. mainland. Flowers pass except for citrus-related flowers, fruits, or parts; jade vine; and maunaloa. Also banned are insects, snails, soil, cotton, cacti, sugarcane, and all berry plants.

Bringing your dog or cat with you is a tricky and expensive process and not something to be done lightly. Hawaii is a rabies-free state and requires animals to pass strict quarantine rules, which you can find online at whdoa.hawaii.gov/ai. Most airlines do not allow pets to travel in the cabin on flights to Hawaii (though Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines are notable exceptions). If specific pre- and post-arrival requirements are met, most animals qualify for a five-day-or-less quarantine. Airports in Oahu, Big Island (Kona only), Lihue, and Kahului airports allow direct release of pets when specific conditions are met and proper paperwork submitted in advance.

AIRPORTS

All of Hawaii’s major islands have their own airports, but Honolulu’s International Airport (officially known as Daniel K. Inouye International Airport) is the main stopover for most domestic and international flights. From Honolulu, there are flights to the Neighbor Islands almost every half-hour from early morning until evening. In addition, some carriers offer nonstop service directly from the mainland to Maui, Kauai, and the Big Island on a limited basis.

j Bus

Public buses aren’t a practical option for most travelers except on Oahu, where a convenient and comprehensive service can substitute for a car-rental, especially if you plan on staying within Honolulu.

BIG ISLAND

Visitors can take advantage of the affordable Hawaii County Mass Transit Agency’s Hele-On Bus, which travels several routes throughout the island. Mostly serving local commuters, the Hele-On Bus is currently free until December 2025 when program costs will be reevaluated. A one-way journey between Hilo and Kona takes about four hours. There’s regular service in and around downtown Hilo, Kailua-Kona, Waimea, North and South Kohala, Honokaa, and Pahoa. However, some routes operate only once-daily.

Visitors can also take advance of the Transit Agency’s Shared Ride Taxi program in Hilo, which provides door-to-door transportation in the area for a cost of $2 per trip. There are also free trolleys in Kona operated by local shopping centers.

KAUAI

The County Transportation Agency operates the Kauai Bus, which provides service between Hanalei and Kekaha, a Koloa/Poipu shuttle, and limited service to the airport. The basic fare is $2 for adults. Schedules are posted on The Kauai Bus Tracker app and wthekauaibus.com. The North Shore Shuttle operates to Kee Beach from Waipa (or Princeville, depending on road construction). Updates about fares, routes, and a hop-on hop-off option are posted at wgohaena.com. The website getaroundkauai.com has information about resources for sustainable transportation choices.

MAUI

Maui Bus, operated by the tour company Roberts Hawaii, offers 12 routes in and between various Central, South, and West Maui communities. You can travel in and around Wailuku, Kahului, Kaanapali, Kapalua, Kihei, Wailea, Maalaea, the North Shore (Paia), and Upcountry (including Kula, Pukalani, Makawao, Haliimaile, and Haiku). The Upcountry and Haiku Islander routes include a stop at Kahului Airport. All routes cost $2 per boarding; children five and under ride free.

OAHU

Getting around by bus is convenient and affordable on Oahu, particularly in the most heavily touristed areas of Waikiki. Options include Honolulu’s municipal transit system, affectionately known as TheBus; the Waikiki Trolleys, brass-trimmed, open-air, hop-on/hop-off vehicles that look like trolleys or large double-decker buses; and brightly painted private buses, some of them free, that shuttle you to such commercial attractions as dinner cruises, shopping centers, and the like.

TheBus is one of the best bargains on Oahu. You can use it to travel around the island or just down Kalakaua Avenue for $3. Buses stop in Waikiki every 10–15 minutes to take passengers to nearby shopping areas. Although free transfers have been discontinued, there’s a daily cap of $7.50, and you can get a one-week pass for $30.

The Waikiki Trolley has three lines—each beginning and ending in Waikiki—and dozens of stops that allow you to plan your own itinerary. A one-day single line pass starts at $18 (but just $5 for the Pink Line) and $55 for all lines. Four-day ($65) and seven-day ($75) all-line passes are also available.

k Car

Except for visitors who are staying only in Waikiki on Oahu, a car is almost a necessity in Hawaii.

BIG ISLAND

It is essential to rent a car when visiting the Big Island since distances can be so far. It is difficult to get lost if you stick to the main roads, but it’s worth it to invest in a paper map. GPS might be unreliable in some remote areas. Most roads are two lanes only. However, car-rentals can be expensive and in short supply during some busy periods; if you are going during the busier seasons, it’s almost better to plan your trip around the availability of your car rental. Rates tend to be more expensive than on Oahu or Maui (even more expensive if you rent in Hilo), but less than on Kauai. Parking can be limited in historic Kailua Village.

KAUAI

Visitors to Kauai will be happier if they rent a car so they can explore independently. However, the scenic Napali Coast is the only outer part of the island that’s not accessible by car. Car-rental rates have risen sharply and be quite expensive (among the most expensive in the state), so reserve a car as far in advance as possible.

MAUI

Should you plan on doing any sightseeing on Maui, it’s best to rent a car. Even if all you want to do is relax in your resort, you may want to hop in the car to check out one of the island’s popular restaurants. Traffic can be heavy during rush hour. And make sure you have both a GPS and a good map since mobile service can be spotty or nonexistent in some areas. Rates for car rentals can be reasonable, at under $50 per day, but there are many added fees and taxes, and you may still need to reserve a car far in advance. Be aware that some hotels charge for parking.

OAHU

Thanks to public transit, you don’t need a car in Waikiki. Elsewhere on the island, though, a car can be invaluable. However, many hotels in Oahu (and all hotels in Waikiki) charge up to $40 per day for parking. Car-rental rates in Oahu can be cheap, beginning at $35 per day, but there are many added taxes and service charges. And traffic in Honolulu can be heavy during rush hour.

CAR RENTALS

If you plan to do lots of sightseeing, it’s best to rent a car. All the major rental car agencies have locations throughout Hawaii (except on Molokai, which has only Alamo). There also are several local rental car companies. On the Big Island, Lanai, and Molokai, four-wheel-drive vehicles are recommended for exploring off the beaten path. It’s wise to make reservations far in advance and make sure that a confirmed reservation guarantees you a car, especially if visiting during peak seasons or for major conventions or sporting events.

Rates begin at about $35 a day for an economy car with air-conditioning, automatic transmission, and unlimited mileage, depending on your pickup location; car rentals are cheaper on Oahu and Maui but can be significantly more expensive on the other islands. Quoted rates typically will not include the airport concession fee, general excise tax, rental vehicle surcharge, or vehicle license fee. When you reserve a car, ask about cancellation penalties and drop-off charges should you plan to pick up the car in one location and return it to another.

In Hawaii you must be 21 years of age to rent a car, and you must have a valid driver’s license and a major credit card. Those under 25 will pay a daily surcharge of $10 to $30. Your unexpired mainland driver’s license is valid for rental for up to 90 days. Request car seats and extras such as GPS when you make your reservation. Car seats and boosters range from about $10 to $15 per day.

GASOLINE

National chains like 76, 7-Eleven, and Shell are ubiquitous, and accept all major credit cards right at the pump or inside the station. Gasoline is generally more expensive than on the mainland United States (other than in California). Neighbor Islands have higher gasoline prices than Oahu.

In rural areas, it’s not unusual for gas stations to close early. If you see that your tank is getting low, don’t take any chances; fill up at the nearest station.

ROAD CONDITIONS

It’s difficult to get lost in most of Hawaii. Although their names may challenge a visitor’s tongue, roads and streets are well marked; just watch out for the many one-way streets in Waikiki. Keep an eye open for the Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau’s red-caped King Kamehameha signs, which mark attractions and scenic spots. Free publications containing high-quality road maps can be found on all islands. And, of course, a GPS or your passenger’s smartphone are great options for finding your way around, too.

Asking for directions will almost always produce a helpful explanation from the locals, but you should be prepared for a Hawaiian term or two. Instead of using compass directions, remember that Hawaii residents refer to places as being either mauka (toward the mountains) or makai (toward the ocean).

Many of Hawaii’s roads are two-lane highways with limited shoulders—and yes, even in paradise, there is traffic, especially during the morning and afternoon rush hour. In Hawaii, turning right on a red light is legal, except where noted. Hawaii has a strict seat-belt law that applies to both drivers and passengers. The fine for not wearing a seat belt is $102. Mobile phone use is strictly limited to talking on a hands-free mobile device, and only for those over 18. Many police officers drive their own cars while on duty, strapping the warning lights to the roof. Because of the color, locals call them “blue lights.”

Use caution during heavy downpours, especially if you see signs warning of falling rocks. If you’re enjoying views from the road or need to study a map, pull over to the side. Remember the aloha spirit when you are driving: allow other cars to merge; don’t honk (it’s considered extremely rude in the Islands); leave a comfortable distance between your car and the car ahead of you; use your headlights, especially during sunrise and sunset; and use your turn signals.

ROADSIDE EMERGENCIES

If you have an accident or car trouble, call the roadside assistance number on your rental car contract or AAA Help. If you find that your car has been broken into or stolen, report it immediately to your rental car company and they can assist you. Call P911 for any emergency.

RULES OF THE ROAD

Be sure to buckle up, as Hawaii has a strictly enforced mandatory seat-belt law for front- and backseat passengers. Children under four must be in a car seat (available from car-rental agencies), and children ages four to seven must be seated in a booster seat or child safety seat with restraint such as a lap and shoulder belt. Hawaii also prohibits texting or talking on the phone (unless you are over 18 and using a hands-free device) while driving. The highway speed limit is usually 55 mph. In-town traffic travels 25–40 mph. Jaywalking is not uncommon, so watch for pedestrians, especially in congested areas such as Waikiki and downtown Honolulu. Unauthorized use of a parking space reserved for persons with disabilities can net you a $250–$500 fine.

Hawaii’s drivers are generally courteous, and you rarely hear a horn. People will slow down and let you into traffic with a wave of the hand. A friendly wave back is customary. If a driver sticks a hand out the window in a fist with the thumb and pinky sticking straight out, this is a good thing: it’s the shaka, the Hawaiian symbol for “hang loose,” and is often used to say “thanks.”

Essentials
r Dining

Whether you’re looking for a dinner for two in a romantic oceanfront dining room or a family get-together in a hole-in-the-wall serving traditional Hawaiian fare like kalua (cooked in an underground oven) pig, you’ll find it throughout the Islands. When it comes to eating, Hawaii has something for every taste bud and every budget. With chefs using locally grown fruits and vegetables, vegetarians often have many exciting choices for their meals. And because Hawaii is a popular destination for families, restaurants almost always have a children’s menu. When making a reservation at your hotel’s dining room, ask about free or reduced-price meals for children.

MEALS AND MEALTIMES

Breakfast is usually served from 6 or 7 am to 9:30 or 10 am.

Lunch typically runs from 11:30 am to around 1:30 or 2 pm and will include salads, sandwiches, and lighter fare. The “plate lunch,” a favorite of many locals, usually consists of an Asian protein—like shoyu chicken, seared ahi, or teriyaki beef—served with two scoops of white rice and a scoop of macaroni or potato salad.

Dinner is usually served from 5 to 9 pm and, depending on the restaurant, can be a simple or lavish affair. Stick to the chefs’ specials if you can, because they usually represent the best of the season. Poke (marinated raw tuna) is a local specialty and can often be found on pupu (appetizer) menus.

Meals in resort areas are pricey and only sometimes excellent. The restaurants we include are the best in each price category. Unless otherwise noted, the restaurants listed are open daily for lunch and dinner.

RESERVATIONS

Regardless of where you are, it’s a good idea to make a reservation if you can. In some places, it’s expected. We only mention reservations specifically when they are essential or when they are not accepted. For popular restaurants, book as far ahead as you can (often a month or more), and reconfirm as soon as you arrive. Large parties should always call ahead to check the reservations policy.

WINE, BEER, AND SPIRITS

Hawaii has a new generation of microbreweries, including on-site microbreweries at many restaurants. The drinking age in Hawaii is 21 years of age, and a photo ID must be presented to purchase alcoholic beverages. Bars are open until 2 am; venues with a cabaret license can stay open until 4 am. No matter what you might see in the local parks, drinking alcohol in public parks or on the beaches is illegal. It’s also illegal to have open containers of alcohol in motor vehicles.

z Health

In addition to being the Aloha State, Hawaii is known as the Health State. The life expectancy here is 83 years, the longest in the nation. Balmy weather makes it easy to remain active year-round, and the low-stress aloha attitude certainly contributes to general well-being. When you are visiting the Islands, however, there are a few health issues to keep in mind.

The Hawaii State Department of Health recommends that you drink 16 ounces of water per hour to avoid dehydration when hiking or spending time in the sun. Use zinc-based sunblock, wear UV-reflective sunglasses, and protect your head with a visor or hat for shade. If you’re not acclimated to warm, humid weather, allow time for rest stops and refreshments. When visiting freshwater streams, be aware of the tropical disease leptospirosis, which is spread by animal urine and carried into streams and mud. Symptoms include fever, headache, nausea, and red eyes. If left untreated, it can cause liver and kidney failure, respiratory failure, internal bleeding, and even death. To avoid this, don’t swim or wade in freshwater streams or ponds if you have open sores, and don’t drink from any freshwater streams or ponds. Wash all locally grown leafy vegetables thoroughly to protect yourself against rat lungworm disease, which is rare but extremely serious.

The Islands have their share of bugs and insects that enjoy the tropical climate as much as visitors do. Most are harmless but annoying. Mosquito-borne illnesses have been reported but are rare; dengue is not considered endemic in Hawaii. Nevertheless, when planning to spend time outdoors in hiking areas, wear long-sleeve shirts and pants and use mosquito repellent. In very damp or rocky places, you may encounter the dreaded local centipede. Blue or brown in color, centipedes can grow as long as eight inches. If surprised, they might sting, which can be painful and last for days. If you are stung by a centipede, wash the site of your bite thoroughly to prevent infection. When camping, shake out your sleeping bag before climbing in, and check your shoes in the morning, as centipedes like warm, moist places. If planning on hiking or traveling in remote areas, always carry a first-aid kit and appropriate medications for sting reactions.

On the Islands, fog is a rare occurrence, but there often can be “vog,” an airborne haze of gases released from volcanic vents on Hawaii Island. During certain weather conditions such as “Kona Winds,” the vog can settle over the Islands and wreak havoc with respiratory conditions, especially asthma or emphysema. If susceptible, stay indoors and get emergency assistance if needed.

Hours

Even people in paradise have to work. Generally, local business hours are weekdays 8–5. Banks are usually open Monday–Thursday 8:30–4 and until 6 on Friday. Some banks have Saturday morning hours.

Many self-serve gas stations stay open around the clock, with full-service stations usually open from around 7 am until 9 pm. The larger U.S. post offices are open weekdays 8:30 am–4:30 pm and Saturday 8:30–noon. Check operating hours for smaller post offices.

Most museums generally open their doors between 9 am and 10 am and stay open until 5 pm Tuesday–Saturday. Many museums operate with afternoon hours only on Sunday and close on Monday. Visitor-attraction hours vary throughout the state, but most sights are open daily, with the exception of major holidays such as Christmas. Check local publications upon arrival for attraction hours and schedules if visiting over holiday periods. The local dailies carry a listing of local cultural events for those time periods.

Stores in resort areas sometimes open as early as 8, with shopping-center opening hours varying from 9:30 to 10 on weekdays and Saturday, a bit later on Sunday. Bigger malls stay open until 9 weekdays and Saturday and close at 5 on Sunday. Boutiques in resort areas may stay open to catch after-dinner shoppers.

h Lodging

Hawaii truly offers something for everyone. Are you looking for a luxurious oceanfront resort loaded with amenities, an intimate two-room bed and breakfast tucked away in a lush rain forest, a house with a pool and incredible views for your extended family, a condominium just steps from the 18th hole, or even a campsite at a national park? You can find all these and more throughout the Islands.

Most hotels and other lodgings require you to give your credit card details before they will confirm your reservation. Get confirmation in writing and have a copy of it handy when you check in. Be sure you understand the hotel’s cancellation policy. Some places allow you to cancel without any kind of penalty—even if you prepaid to secure a discounted rate—if you cancel at least 24 hours in advance. Others require you to cancel a week in advance or penalize you the cost of one night. Small inns and bed and breakfasts are most likely to require you to cancel far in advance. Most hotels allow children under a certain age to stay in their parents’ room at no extra charge, but others charge for them as adults; find out the cutoff age for discounts.

BED-AND-BREAKFASTS

For many travelers, nothing compares to the personal service and guest interaction offered at bed and breakfasts. There are hundreds of them throughout the Islands; many even invite their guests to enjoy complimentary wine tastings and activities such as lei making and basket weaving. Each island’s website also features a listing of member B&Bs that are individually owned.

CONDOMINIUM AND HOUSE RENTALS

Vacation rentals are perfect for couples, families, and friends traveling together who like the convenience of staying at a home away from home. Properties managed by individual owners can be found on online vacation-rental listing directories such as HomeAway, Vacation Rentals by Owner (Vrbo), and Airbnb, as well as on the visitors bureau website for each island. There also are several Islands-based management companies with vacation rentals.

Always ask about the home or condo’s licensing as a vacation rental, since not all properties advertised carry the necessary license. Technically, rentals of less than 30 days are illegal on Oahu unless the property has a license for short-term vacation rentals or is a hotel with apartment units. On Maui, some vacation rentals are being turned into long-term housing for displaced Lahaina residents.

g Packing

Hawaii is casual: sandals, bathing suits, and comfortable, informal clothing are the norm. Year-round, clothing of cotton or rayon proves very comfortable. Beach-going women love to wear the pareu, or sarong. Men will look right at home in T-shirts and board shorts.

One of the most important things to pack is sunscreen. Some traditional sunscreens are harming coral reefs; statewide legislation now bans the sale of sunscreens that contain oxybenzone and octinoxate. So if you do want to use reef-safe sunscreen, buy products that are zinc-based or reef approved. Even better? Buy a long-sleeved rash guard, available at all major retailers. That way, you have no gunky lotions or harmful chemicals to deal with while out enjoying the reefs. Hats and sunglasses offer important sun protection, too. Both are easy to find in island shops if you don’t bring them with you. All major hotels in Hawaii (and most small ones) provide beach towels.

Only a few upscale restaurants require a jacket for dinner. The aloha shirt is accepted dress in Hawaii for business and most social occasions. Shorts are acceptable daytime attire, along with a T-shirt or polo shirt. There’s no need to buy expensive sandals on the mainland—here you can get flip-flops (called “slippers” by locals) for under $5. Golfers should remember that many courses have dress codes requiring a collared shirt; call courses for details. If you’re not prepared, you can buy appropriate clothing at resort pro shops. If you’re visiting in winter, bring a sweater or light- to medium-weight jacket. A polar fleece pullover is ideal and makes a great impromptu pillow.

If your vacation plans include Hilo or Maui’s northern coast, you’ll want to pack a compact umbrella and a light poncho. And if you’ll be visiting Hawaii Volcanoes National Park or Haleakala National Par, make sure you pack appropriately, as weather ranges from hot and dry along the shores to chilly, foggy, and rainy at the summits. Sturdy boots are recommended if you’ll be hiking or camping in either park.

z Safety

Hawaii is generally a safe tourist destination, but crime still happens, and you should exercise normal precautions. Hotel and visitor center staff can provide information should you decide to head out on your own to more remote areas.

Rental cars are magnets for break-ins, so don’t leave any valuables in them, not even in a locked trunk. Thieves watch areas such as beach parking lots, and can pop your hood and be gone in 60 seconds. Avoid poorly lighted areas, beach parks, and isolated areas after dark as a precaution.

When hiking, stay on marked trails, no matter how alluring the temptation might be to stray; changing weather conditions can cause landscapes to become muddy and slippery, so staying on marked trails lessens the possibility of a fall or getting lost. This is especially true on the wetter, windward side. Heed warnings about dangerous currents in rivers and swimming holes.

Ocean safety is of the utmost importance when visiting any island destination. Avoid swimming if the conditions seem rough or dangerous. Many beaches do not have lifeguards. Winter also brings higher, more dangerous surf. Don’t swim alone; follow the international signage posted at beaches, which alerts swimmers to strong currents, man-of-war or box jellyfish, sharp coral, high surf, sharks, and dangerous shore breaks. Ask about conditions if red flags are up. But even when the water looks calm on the surface, it can harbor strong currents and undertows, and sometimes people who are “just wading” have been dragged out to sea and never seen again. When in doubt, don’t go out!

At coastal lookouts along cliff tops, heed the signs indicating that waves can climb over the ledges.

Women traveling alone are generally safe in Hawaii, but always follow the same safety precautions you would use in any major destination. When booking hotels, request rooms closest to the elevator, and always keep your hotel room door and balcony doors locked. Stay away from isolated areas after dark. If you stay out late at a bar, use caution when exiting and returning to your car or lodging; most establishments will be glad to give you an escort to your car.

1 Taxes

Hawaii does not have a state sales tax, but individual islands do on all purchases, including food and services. On the Big Island, the amount is 4.712%, on Kauai 4.5%, on Maui 4.71%, and on Oahu 4.712% will be tacked onto goods and services you purchase. In Hawaii, hotel rooms are taxed at a rate of 13.25% (10.25% for the state, and 3% for each county); each county’s general Excise Tax is added to that, which amounts to almost 18%. A $5-per-day road tax is assessed on each rental car ($3 with Hawaii driver’s license).

y Tipping

With so many jobs being service-oriented in Hawaii, tipping for good service is expected on all the islands. For example, a tip of 18% to 20% is expected in restaurants, even casual eateries. It’s customary to tip all service folk at hotels and resorts, from valets to housekeepers. Keeping a stash of “singles” in your wallet or handbag makes this easy.

c When to Go

Low season: The fall (September through mid-December) is a slower time for tourism in Hawaii. During this period, you can find better rates on just about everything. That beach you want to lounge on will be less crowded, too.

Shoulder season: Mid-April through June is an in-between time. Because of Hawaii’s warm weather, though, this season still attracts plenty of visitors.

High season: The busiest time is generally from mid-December to March or mid-April, when Hawaii weather is good and temperatures are moderate. The height of summer (July and August) is also considered high season. Make all reservations well in advance, and don’t expect to find deals on accommodations.

WEATHER

In Hawaii, the thermometer generally hovers between the mid-70s and the mid-80s (degrees Fahrenheit). There are essentially just two seasons: summer and winter. Winters, from November through April, are rainier and a bit cooler than the summer months, May through October. But even if it’s raining on one island (or even on one part of the island you’re on), chances are it’s dry and sunny somewhere else.

Hawaiian Vocabulary

Although an understanding of Hawaiian is by no means required on a trip to the Aloha State, a malihini, or newcomer, will find plenty of opportunities to pick up a few of the local words and phrases. Traditional names and expressions are widely used in the Islands. You’re likely to read or hear at least a few words each day of your stay.

Simplifying the learning process is the fact that the Hawaiian language contains only seven consonants—H, K, L, M, N, P, W, and the silent ‘okina, or glottal stop, written ‘—plus one or more of the five vowels. All syllables, and therefore all words, end in a vowel. Each vowel, with the exception of a few diphthongized double vowels, such as au (pronounced “ow”) or ai (pronounced “eye”), is pronounced separately. Thus ‘Iolani is four syllables (ee-oh-la-nee), not three (yo-la-nee). Although some Hawaiian words have only vowels, most also contain some consonants, but consonants are never doubled.

Pronunciation is simple. Pronounce A “ah” as in father; E “ay” as in weigh; I “ee” as in marine; O “oh” as in no; U “oo” as in true.

Consonants mirror their English equivalents, with the exception of W. When the letter begins any syllable other than the first one in a word, it is usually pronounced as a V. ‘Awa, the Polynesian drink, is pronounced “ava,” ‘ewa is pronounced “eva.”

Almost all long Hawaiian words are combinations of shorter words; they are not difficult to pronounce if you segment them. Kalaniana’ole, the highway running east from Honolulu, is easily understood as Kalani ana ‘ole. Apply the standard pronunciation rules—the stress falls on the next-to-last syllable of most two- or three-syllable Hawaiian words—and Kalaniana’ole Highway is as easy to say as Main Street.

Now about that fish. Try humu-humu nuku-nuku āpu a’a.

The other unusual element in Hawaiian language is the kahakō, or macron, written as a short line (ˉ) placed over a vowel. Like the accent (´) in Spanish, the kahakō puts emphasis on a syllable that would normally not be stressed. The most familiar example is probably Waikīkī. With no macrons, the stress would fall on the middle syllable; with only one macron, on the last syllable, the stress would fall on the first and last syllables. Some words become plural with the addition of a macron, often on a syllable that would have been stressed anyway. No Hawaiian word becomes plural with the addition of an S, since that letter does not exist in the language.

Note that Hawaiian diacritical marks are not printed in this guide.

PIDGIN

You may hear Pidgin English, the unofficial language of Hawaii. It is a Creole language, with its own grammar, evolved from the mixture of English, Hawaiian, Japanese, Portuguese, and other languages spoken in 19th-century Hawaii, and it is heard everywhere.

GLOSSARY

What follows is a glossary of some of the most commonly used Hawaiian words. Hawaiian residents appreciate visitors who at least try to pick up the local language.

‘a‘ā: rough, crumbling lava, contrasting with pāhoehoe, which is smooth.

‘ae: yes.

aikane: friend.

āina: land.

akamai: smart, clever, possessing savoir faire.

akua: god.

ala: a road, path, or trail.

ali’i: a Hawaiian chief, a member of the chiefly class.

aloha: love, affection, kindness; also a salutation meaning both greetings and farewell.

‘ānuenue: rainbow.

‘a’ole: no.

‘apōpō: tomorrow.

‘auwai: a ditch.

auwē: alas, woe is me!

‘ehu: a red-haired Hawaiian.

‘ewa: in the direction of ‘Ewa plantation, west of Honolulu.

hala: the pandanus tree, whose leaves (lau hala) are used to make baskets and plaited mats.

hālau: school.

hale: a house.

hale pule: church, house of worship.

hana: to work.

haole: foreigner. Since the first foreigners were Caucasian, haole now means a Caucasian person.

hapa: a part, sometimes a half; often used as a short form of hapa haole, to mean a person who is part-Caucasian.

hau’oli: to rejoice. Hau’oli Makahiki Hou means Happy New Year. Hau’oli lā hānau means Happy Birthday.

heiau: an outdoor stone platform; an ancient Hawaiian place of worship.

he mea iki or he mea ‘ole: you’re welcome.

holo: to run.

holoholo: to go for a walk, ride, or sail.

holokū: a long Hawaiian dress, somewhat fitted, with a yoke and a train. It was worn at court, and at least one local translates the word as “expensive muumuu.”

holomū: a post–World War II cross between a holokū and a mu’umu’u, less fitted than the former but less voluminous than the latter, and having no train.

honi: to kiss; a kiss. A phrase that some tourists may find useful, quoted from a popular hula, is Honi Ka’ua Wikiwiki: Kiss me quick!

honu: turtle.

ho’omalimali: flattery, a deceptive “line,” bunk, baloney, hooey.

huhū: angry.

hui: a group, club, or assembly. A church may refer to its congregation as a hui and a social club may be called a hui.

hukilau: a seine; a communal fishing party in which everyone helps to drive the fish into a huge net, pull it in, and divide the catch.

hula: the dance of Hawaii.

iki: little.

ipo: sweetheart. Commonly seen as “ku’uipo,” or “my sweetheart.”

ka: the. This is the definite article for most singular words; for plural nouns, the definite article is usually nā. Since there is no S in Hawaiian, the article may be your only clue that a noun is plural.

kahuna: a priest, doctor, or other trained person of old Hawaii, endowed with special professional skills that often included prophecy or other supernatural powers.

kai: the sea, saltwater.

kalo: the taro plant from whose root poi (paste) is made.

kamā‘aina: literally, a child of the soil; it refers to people who were born in the Islands or have lived there for a long time.

kanaka: originally a man or humanity, it is now used to denote a male Hawaiian or part-Hawaiian, but is occasionally taken as a slur when used by non-Hawaiians. Kanaka maoli is used by some Native Hawaiian rights activists to embrace part-Hawaiians as well.

kāne: a man, a husband. If you see this word (or kane) on a door, it’s the men’s room.

kapa: also called by its Tahitian name, tapa, a cloth made of beaten bark and usually dyed and stamped with a repeat design.

kapakahi: crooked, cockeyed, uneven. You’ve got your hat on kapakahi.

kapu: keep out, prohibited. This is the Hawaiian version of the more widely known Tongan word tabu (taboo).

kēia lā: today.

keiki: a child; keikikāne is a boy, keikiwahine a girl.

kōkua: to help, assist. Often seen in signs like “Please kōkua and throw away your trash.”

kona: the leeward side of the Islands, the direction (south) from which the kona wind and kona rain come.

kula: upland.

kuleana: a homestead or small plot of ground on which a family has been installed for some generations without necessarily owning it. By extension, kuleana is used to denote any area or department in which one has a special interest or prerogative. You’ll hear it used this way: “If you want to hire a surfboard, see Moki; that’s his kuleana.”

kupuna: grandparent; elder.

lā: sun.

lamalama: to fish with a torch.

lānai: a porch, a balcony, an outdoor living room.

lani: heaven, the sky.

lauhala: the leaf of the hala, or pandanus tree, widely used in handicrafts.

lei: a garland of flowers.

lōlō: feeble-minded, crazy.

luna: a plantation overseer or foreman.

mahalo: thank you.

mahina: moon.

makai: toward the ocean.

mālama: to take care of, preserve, protect
malihini: a newcomer to the Islands.

mana: the spiritual power that the Hawaiians believe inhabits all things and creatures.

manō: shark.

manuahi: free, gratis.

mauka: toward the mountains.

mauna: mountain.

mele: a Hawaiian song or chant, often of epic proportions.

Mele Kalikimaka: Merry Christmas (a transliteration from the English phrase).

Menehune: a Hawaiian pixie. The Menehune were a legendary race of little people who accomplished prodigious work, such as building fishponds and temples in the course of a single night.

moana: the ocean.

mu’umu’u: the voluminous dress in which the missionaries enveloped Hawaiian women. Culturally sensitive locals have embraced the Hawaiian spelling but often shorten the spoken word to “mu’u.” Most English dictionaries include the spelling “muumuu.”

nani: beautiful.

nui: big.

‘ohana: family.

‘ono: delicious.

pāhoehoe: smooth, unbroken, satiny lava.

palapala: document, printed matter.

pali: a cliff, precipice.

pānini: prickly pear cactus.

paniolo: a Hawaiian cowboy, a rough transliteration of español, the language of the Islands’ earliest cowboys.

pau: finished, done.

pilikia: trouble. The Hawaiian word is much more widely used here than its English equivalent.

pū: large conch shell used to trumpet the start of luau and other special events.

puka: a hole.

pule: prayer, blessing. Often performed before a meal or event.

pupule: crazy, like the celebrated Princess Pupule. This word has replaced its English equivalent in local usage.

pu’u: volcanic cinder cone.

tūtū: grandmother
waha: mouth.

wahine: a female, a woman, a wife, and a sign on the ladies’ room door; the plural form is wāhine.

wai: freshwater, as opposed to saltwater, which is kai.

wailele: waterfall.

wikiwiki: to hurry, hurry up (since this is a reduplication of wiki, quick, neither W is pronounced as a V).

Great Itineraries

Best of the Big Island in a Week

Experiencing the best of the Big Island requires some drive time, plus some downtime.

DAY 1: HISTORIC KAILUA VILLAGE

Start your first day in Kailua-Kona with a stroll around Historic Kailua Village. Eat breakfast at one of the oceanfront restaurants along Alii Drive. Stroll the seaside village’s many gift stores, art galleries, and boutiques. Historic landmarks include royal Hulihee Palace and the oldest Christian church in Hawaii, Mokuaikaua Church. In the afternoon, take a ride on the Atlantis X submarine, or take a sunset dinner sail with Body Glove Cruises.

Logistics: The village is walkable. There are paid and free lots behind the shops on the mountain side of Alii Drive.

DAY 2: BEST KOHALA BEACHES

Head north to the beautiful sand beaches of the Kohala Coast. Check out Anaehoomalu Bay in Waikoloa Beach Resort. Not only can you rent beach amenities including kayaks or stand-up paddleboards, you’ll also be near Queens’ MarketPlace with its restaurants and shops, as well as retail and dining destinations at the Kings’ Shops. For lunch, try Lava Lava Beach Club, right on the beach at Anaehoomalu Bay. Head north to Kawaihae and visit Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site, where King Kamehameha I oversaw the building of a great temple. On the way back, make a stop at Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area.

Logistics: Parking is easy at Waikoloa Beach Resort. It’s a 35-mile, 40-minute drive from Kailua-Kona via Queen Kaahumanu Highway.

DAY 3: KEALAKEKUA BAY

In South Kona, Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park attracts visitors to this marine conservation district frequented by spinner dolphins. The Captain James Cook Monument, a white obelisk on a wharf across the bay at Kaawaloa Flats, marks near where the navigator was slain in 1779. Guided kayak tours are available, and snorkeling is excellent. In the afternoon, visit St. Benedict Painted Church, plus Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park. On your way back north, stop at Greenwell Farms in Kealakekua for a Kona coffee farm tour.

Logistics: Take the lower bypass road from Keauhou or the upper road from Kailua-Kona, and head down Napoopoo Road to the end. It’s a 34-mile, 30-minute round-trip from Kailua-Kona.

DAY 4: HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

It’s a long drive from Kailua-Kona to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, so leave early to get to the park by 10 am. Begin at the Kilauea Visitor Center, where you can review maps, buy trail-guide booklets, or talk to the rangers. Stroll along a boardwalk to the sulfur banks and steam vents. Along the way, stop at Volcano Art Center to view fantastic local art. Drive to the Steaming Bluffs and walk to an overlook with views of Halemaumau Crater and Kilauea Caldera. Then drive down Chain of Craters Road to visit Thurston Lava Tube and the adjacent Kilauea Iki Trail. Afterward, stop by Volcano House and eat lunch or dinner at The Rim.

Logistics: The park is open 24/7, but entrance fees are charged during normal visiting hours. It’s 90 miles (2½ hours) from Kailua-Kona.

DAY 5: WAIMEA AND UPCOUNTRY

At the foothills of Maunakea, this small upcountry town is home to Parker Ranch, one of the country’s largest privately owned cattle ranches. You can book several activities in town, including horseback riding and tours of two historic homes. Waimea has great restaurants, including Merriman’s and Big Island Brewhaus. Not far from Waimea, Waipio Valley is a beautiful destination. The nearby town of Honokaa still feels like a slice of the old sugar plantation days.

Logistics: Waimea can be reached via the upper road (Highway 190) from Kailua-Kona, or up Kawaihae Road from the lower highway near the Kohala Coast resorts. Distance from Kailua-Kona: 39 miles one way.

DAY 6: KEAUHOU BAY

Keauhou is just south of Kailua-Kona on Alii Drive. Here you’ll find lots of recreational activities, including tennis, golf, and stand-up paddleboarding. Keauhou Shopping Center has movie theaters, restaurants, and cafés. Some of the island’s most popular activities are the nighttime manta ray tours with operators that depart nightly from Keauhou Harbor.

Logistics: You’ll need your car to drive around the area, or you can take the Kona Trolley from town. It’s 5 miles one way on Alii Drive.

Tips

Book manta ray or kayaking tours in advance, as they are popular.

Plan your time at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park carefully so you can see what you want.

DAY 7: NORTH KONA

Two of the best beaches near Kailua-Kona take some time to get to. Kekaha Kai State Park, also known as Mahaiula, is accessed down a long gravel road that winds through a lava field on the way to a wonderful white-sand beach. About a 20-minute walk south across a lava field from Kekaha Kai State Park, Makalawena Beach is a gem and worth the hike; be sure to pack water, a shade umbrella, food, and sunscreen.

Logistics: On Wednesday, the park is closed. Distance from Kailua-Kona: 13 miles one way.

Highlights of Oahu

From mauka (mountains) to makai (sea), Oahu is probably the Hawaiian island most likely to please all types of travelers—whether you’re an outdoorsy type, a beach bum, a foodie, or a family—and a week should give you enough time to see the highlights. You can either use the bus or take taxis or rideshares while you’re in Honolulu, but rent a car to get out on the island and get a true feel for all things Oahu.

DAY 1: WAIKIKI

Due to the time difference between Hawaii and the rest of the United States, you’ll probably be jet-lagged. Grab coffee and head for a beach: Waikiki, Sans Souci, or Fort DeRussy. You’ll see locals on their morning jogs at Kapiolani Park and catching waves at their favorite shore break.

When you’re ready to explore the city, hit Kalakaua Avenue on foot, the best way to shop and sightsee. Got kiddos in tow? Try the Waikiki Aquarium or the Honolulu Zoo. Get some refreshments with tea at the Moana Surfrider, the oldest hotel in Waikiki, or mai tais and pupu (hors d’oeuvres) at Duke’s Waikiki (a better deal at lunch). In the afternoon, take a surf lesson in the beginner-friendly waves of Waikiki. Finish your day with a seaside dinner.

DAY 2: PEARL HARBOR

Give yourself a whole day for Pearl Harbor. Note that only the USS Arizona and the visitor center, which are operated by the National Park Service, are free; the other sights are operated by private entities and charge admission. Also, you must reserve tickets for the USS Arizona Memorial online in advance (for a small fee).

After your ferry ride out to the memorial, you can also explore the USS Bowfin submarine or take a shuttle to Ford Island and visit the restored USS Missouri battleship (the “Mighty Mo”) and the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum. Return to Waikiki for some late-afternoon beach time and a good dinner.

DAY 3: DOWNTOWN HONOLULU AND CHINATOWN

Take a bus or taxi to downtown Honolulu for a guided tour of the royal residence, Iolani Palace, where you’ll get an excellent overview of Hawaii’s monarchical era, from the early 1800s through its overthrow in 1893. For more historical highlights, walk between Honolulu Hale (Hawaiian for “house”), Kawaiahao Church, the Hawaiian Mission Houses Historic Site and Archives, the Hawaii State Capitol, Washington Place, and the King Kamehameha I statue in the courtyard of Aliiolani Hale (now home of Hawaii Supreme Court). Several companies offer guided walks of the area.

Continue walking the half mile through Honolulu’s business district into Chinatown for lunch at one of its eclectic eateries. Browse the shops, art galleries, and cultural sites, like Maunakea Marketplace, Chinatown Cultural Plaza, the Izumo Taishakyo Mission, and Kuan Yin Temple.

DAY 4: DIAMOND HEAD AND KAIMUKI

Today you will go the opposite direction from downtown. Tours of Shangri La, the opulent former waterfront home of heiress Doris Duke, with its museum of Islamic art and architecture, book up well in advance. It’s well worth the effort to make an online reservation for a small surcharge. (Note: Shuttles to the Kahala home-turned-museum start and end at the Honolulu Museum of Art, located on the other side of Waikiki).

Another option is to hike Diamond Head State Monument (early morning is recommended to avoid the midday sun). Reservations must be made in advance to enter the area for the park’s steep 1½-hour, 1½-mile (round-trip) trail up and down this dormant volcano. Keep in mind there is little shade, and bring water.

For either option, enjoy afternoon beach time and finish the day with dinner in the foodie neighborhood of Kaimuki.

DAY 5: KAILUA AND THE SOUTH SHORE

Head to Windward Oahu for a stop in Kailua, a swim at its quintessential beach, and lunch at Kalapawai Cafe & Deli. Next, drive along the southeastern shore via Waimanalo, and choose your afternoon adventure: 1) do the easy, stroller-friendly hike at Makapuu Point Lighthouse, with great whale-watching views in winter and spring; 2) snorkel at the pristine Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve, where you’ll have more space to swim with the fish after the morning-to-midday rush. Reservations must be made ahead; entrance fee is $25; or 3) stop at the Halona Blowhole lookout and the From Here to Eternity Halona Beach Cove nearby.

Tips

If this is your first visit, stay in Waikiki, which has most of the island’s hotels.

You don’t need a car in Honolulu, but you’ll need one to explore farther afield.

Don’t forget your hat, sunscreen, and good walking shoes.

Be sure to reserve your free USS Arizona Memorial tickets online in advance ($1 charge). Also reserve ahead to hike Diamond Head.

DAY 6: THE NORTH SHORE

The stunning beaches here are home to some of the world’s most famous surf breaks. Each winter, surfers converge to catch barreling waves of 15 feet or higher. The cute town of Haleiwa is filled with surf shops, boutiques, and restaurants. Grab lunch from Haleiwa Joe’s Seafood Grill or Uncle Bo’s Haleiwa. Enjoying a frozen treat at Matsumoto Shave Ice is a sweet way to end the day.

Maui in 1 Week

Although lounging beside the pool or on a sandy beach is part of a Hawaiian vacation, Maui has much more to offer: underwater encounters with rainbow-colored fish, a cool dip in a jungle waterfall, or a trek across the moonlike landscape of a dormant volcano.

zMaui is susceptible to dangerous surf, flash flooding, and other natural hazards. Always check for advisories on road, ocean, and wilderness conditions before venturing out.

DAY 1: GETTING SETTLED

On your way out of Kahului Airport, stop at Costco, Target, or Walmart to pick up beach gear, sunscreen, food, and drink.

Once ensconced at your hotel or condo, unwind from your long flight by exploring the grounds, dozing by the pool, or splashing in the ocean—isn’t it why you came to Maui?

Logistics: Road signs will point you to the two main resort areas: Highway 311 (Maui Veterans Highway) to 31 (Piilani), south to Kihei and Wailea, and Highway 380 (Kuihelani) to 30 (Honoapiilani) west to Lahaina and Kapalua.

DAY 2: SURF, SAND AND … FORE!

Spend time snorkeling, swimming, sunbathing, or surfing in the gentle waves of Cove Park in Kihei or Launiupoko in West Maui. If golf’s more your game, hit the tournament-quality golf links in the resort areas. You can find reasonable rates at Central Maui’s scenic Waiehu or Dunes at Maui Lani courses. Spend the evening (when it’s cooler) visiting Whalers Village, which is filled with shops, restaurants, and art galleries.

Logistics: Many hotels and condos offer complimentary shuttle service to golfing, shopping, and dining. Driving to Lahaina from South Maui, take Highway 310 (North Kihei Road) and turn left on Highway 30 (Honoapiilani).

DAY 3: ADVENTURE ON LAND AND SEA

Get a different view of the island—and discover what’s beneath the surface of its waters—on a full- or half-day boat excursion to Molokini, a crescent-shaped islet that sits 3 miles off South Maui, or on a snorkeling, scuba diving, or dolphin- and whale-watching trip. If you prefer dry land, head to Maui Tropical Plantation in Waikapu, near Wailuku, which has a country store and the Flyin’ Hawaiian Zipline and offers zip line courses as well as tram tours. Plan to be back early enough for a sunset luau at your resort.

Logistics: Boat tours leave from Maalaea Harbor in South Maui and Kaanapali in West Maui. Check with your tour company for directions. To get to the Maui Tropical Plantation from West Maui, follow Highway 30 (Honoapiilani) south to Waikapu; from South Maui, take Highway 310 (North Kihei Road) and turn right onto Highway 30.

DAY 4: HALEAKALA AND UPCOUNTRY

At the 10,000-foot summit of this dormant volcano, sunrise is so popular that the National Park Service now requires reservations (make yours as early as possible, up to 60 days in advance of your visit). To avoid the crowd, consider planning your day in reverse.

Start with some terrific North Shore bodysurfing at Baldwin Beach, followed by lunch in the former plantation town of Paia, home to charming boutiques and cafés. Once in Upcountry, tour Surfing Goat Dairy, Ali’i Kula Lavender, or MauiWine. Then head to the Haleakala summit in the afternoon when the national park is less crowded, and the spectacular sunset vista encompasses at least three islands and the broad expanse separating Maui’s two mountains.

Logistics: To reach Haleakala from South Maui, take Highway 311 (Maui Veterans Highway) out of Kihei to connect with Highway 36 (Hana) and then Highway 37 (Haleakala). From West Maui, follow Highway 30 (Honoapiilani) to 380 (Kuihelani), connecting to Highway 36.

DAY 5: THE ROAD TO HANA

Today’s the day to tackle the 600 curves of the Road to Hana (Highway 36/360). There aren’t a lot of dining options in Hana, but many hotels offer picnic baskets for the road, or fill your cooler and gas tank in Paia, the last chance for provisions. Pause to stretch your legs at the Keanae Arboretum, picturesque Keanae Overlook, or any of the roadside waterfalls.

Approaching Hana town, turn into Waianapanapa State Park, with its rugged lava outcroppings, black-sand beach, trails, and caves with freshwater pools. After a brief stop in Hana town—perhaps to grab a bite from one of the food trucks—continue on to the Kipahulu District of Haleakala National Park, site of the Pools of Oheo (nicknamed Seven Sacred Pools) and 400-foot Waimoku Falls. (Check for updates on closures due to flash flooding and landslides.) Don’t leave Kipahulu without visiting the gravesite of famed aviator Charles Lindbergh, who is buried at 19th-century Palapala Hoomau Congregational Church.

Logistics: Follow directions to Haleakala, but stay on Highway 36/360 (Hana Highway).

DAY 6: BACK TO THE BEACH

To recover from your trek to Hana, take it easy with a visit to the South Shore’s Maui Ocean Center, where you’ll be mesmerized by the sharks, rays, and tuna circling the 750,000-gallon open-ocean tank. Spend the rest of the day relaxing on a beach or at a spa.

Logistics: From South Maui, take Highway 31 (Piilani) to 310 (North Kihei Road), then head a short distance left on Highway 30 (Honoapiilani). From West Maui, head south on Highway 30 to Maalaea/Maui Ocean Center.

DAY 7: CENTRAL MAUI

Squeeze in a final session at the beach or pool before checking out of your hotel and heading to Central Maui to be closer to the airport. If you like history, Hale Hoikeike at the Bailey House has the island’s largest collection of Hawaiian artifacts. Just five minutes up the road is Iao Valley State Park, with one of the state’s most photographed natural landmarks: Iao Needle.

Eat like a local with lunch or an early dinner at 808 on Main or Tiffany’s Maui in Wailuku or My Thai Maui or Tin Roof in Kahului. If there’s time, visit Kanaha Beach Park by Kahului Airport to watch world-class wind- and kitesurfers or shop for gifts and souvenirs at area malls.

Logistics: From South Maui, take Highway 311 (Maui Veterans Highway) all the way to 32 (Kaahumanu) in Kahului, then turn left toward Wailuku; from West Maui, Highway 30 (Honoapiilani) leads right into Wailuku town. Kahului Airport is a 10-minute drive from here.

The Best of Kauai in 8 Days

Kauai is small, but its major byways generally follow the coast with no through-roads, so it can take more time than you expect to get around. Taking a boat ride along Napali Coast, hiking the Kalalau Trail, kayaking the Wailua River, marveling at a waterfall, watching whales from Kilauea Lighthouse, shopping for gifts in Koloa Town shops—there’s so much to see and do. Rather than trying to check everything off your list in one fell swoop, choose your favorites and devote a full day to the experiences, allowing time to relax.

DAY 1: SETTLE IN ON THE EAST SIDE

The East Side of the island is a convenient area to make a home base. Stay here and you’ll have the easiest access to most of the island’s top attractions. Fresh off a long flight, you’ll likely want to relax by the pool at your hotel/condo or walk the coastal path at Kealia Beach Park, just north of funky Kapaa Town. The far end near the rock jetty is safer for swimming and easy bodysurfing. There are plenty of welcoming casual dining options around Kapaa, or try Hukilau Lanai for a fantastic first meal.

Logistics: Wailua/Kapaa traffic can be a nightmare, so avoid rush and midday times. It’s 10 miles from the airport to Kapaa, but drive times can vary from 15 to 35 minutes. Kealia Beach is three minutes north of Kapaa and has plenty of parking.

DAY 2: TAKE IT ALL IN

For an incredible—and literal—overview of Kauai’s beaches, forests, canyons, waterfalls, and ocean, take a morning helicopter trip out of Lihue with Blue Hawaiian Helicopters or Jack Harter Helicopters. These are expensive trips, but the images of the rolling verdant carpet far below will linger long in your memory. A rainy-day way to get a good island introduction is with a visit to the Kauai Museum. Afternoon is free for beach time or laid-back shopping in Kapaa Town. An alternative is to have lunch in Lihue and lounge on Kalapaki Beach.

Logistics: Kalapaki Bay is five minutes south of Lihue.

DAY 3: EAST SIDE OFFERINGS

Check out the Kapaa/Wailua area, which has a little something for everyone. Rent a bike at Kauai Cycle and coast along Ke Ala Hele Makalae, enjoying the coastal path’s ocean views and invigorating fresh air. Or take a moderate 2-mile (each way) hike on the Sleeping Giant Trail for panoramic vistas of the entire East Side. Then get back on the main road for a short drive to Opaekaa Falls, one of the Wailua River’s mightiest displays, and the nearby temple ruins.

Logistics: From mid-Kapaa to the starting point of the Sleeping Giant Trail is 3 miles; just avoid rush hours.

DAY 4: SOUTH SHORE SIGHTS

Start with a hike on the Mahaulepu Heritage Trail near Poipu for wondrous ocean-side views of pristine beaches and craggy ledges. A quick dip at Poipu Beach Park will refresh your limbs after your hike. Grab lunch in Poipu or Koloa, then drive down Lawai Road to Spouting Horn, Kauai’s version of Old Faithful. Across the road is the National Tropical Botanical Garden, where you can explore beautiful grounds of exotic flora and learn about biodiversity in Hawaii and the Pacific.

Logistics: The Mahaulepu Trail is about 10 minutes from Koloa Town. From there to Spouting Horn is about another 10-minute drive. Reserve garden tours at wntbg.org/gardens/tours.

DAY 5: AT SEA ON NAPALI COAST

Choose your preferred watercraft (Zodiac for adventure rafting or catamaran for pleasure cruising) and depart from Port Allen in Eleele for an unforgettable journey along breathtakingly scenic Napali Coast. Most trips are about four hours and usually include a light snack; some include drinks. Don’t schedule anything too demanding afterward, as you’ll likely be pleasantly tired, and you’ll want to savor the memories of the sights you just beheld. If you wish, though, just a mile from Eleele is Hanapepe, an artsy historic small town that’s great for a stroll and some browsing at locally owned shops and galleries—don’t miss the Swinging Bridge.

Logistics: Port Allen is about 16 miles west of Lihue Airport.

DAY 6: EXPLORE NATURAL WONDERS

In the mountains of Kokee on the West Side, you’ll enjoy the splendor of the mountains, the ocean, the sunlight, and the crisper air. Stop along the way at the scenic overlooks of Waimea Canyon and be dazzled by the interplay of light and shadow as the sun moves across this spectacular landscape. Take a break at Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow to have lunch at Kokee Lodge and check out the Kokee Natural History Museum next door (a big trail map is on the porch). Continue another 5 miles or so to the postcard-worthy Kalalau Lookout.

Logistics: Drive up from Waimea Town to get to the canyon vistas and come down on the Kekaha side, which is less steep and best for sunset watching. It’s about 40 minutes straight up to the meadow, but scenic stops stretch it out.

DAY 7: NORTH SHORE PLAYGROUND

The North Shore’s plentiful sights and activities include swimming, surfing, golf, tennis, botanical gardens, hiking, and horseback riding. Visit Limahuli Garden and Preserve in Haena, which features an ancient Hawaiian layout of a typical self-sufficient community, or Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens & Sculpture Park, with its artistic side and working-farm focus. At Kilauea Lighthouse, behold the cliffs, exotic seabirds, and magnificent view. Spend the rest of your day at Hanalei Bay swimming, taking a surf lesson, or just strolling the 2-mile crescent-shape beach.

Logistics: Limahuli is about a 15-minute ride west of Hanalei/Waipa by car or on the shuttle.

DAY 8: HIKE PART OF THE KALALAU TRAIL

Now experience Napali Coast from land. The moderate trek to Hanakapiai Beach offers incredible views peering straight down over the sea, a visit to a dramatic beach (don’t swim), and a hike up a stream to a 300-foot waterfall. You won’t be taking the arduous 11-mile journey (one-way) of the entire coastal Kalalau Trail, so take your time and enjoy Kauai’s scenery. Be sure to secure a permit if you plan to hike beyond Hanakapiai or camp.

Logistics: Well ahead of your trip, check wgohaena.com for the latest reservation information for accessing the park and trailhead. It’s a roller-coaster 2 miles to Hanakapiai Beach; allow an hour one-way. The hike up the valley is also 2 miles—but plan on 90 minutes each way. Factor in time to return, wear sturdy shoes, stay hydrated, and only do this hike if you’re fit.

On the Calendar

Local events are a fun way to experience Hawaii’s diverse culture, and with festivals, parades, concerts, tournaments, surfingevents, and more happening every month across the islands, you’re sure to find something to please everyone. It’s still a good idea to check the format of a festival or event (in-person, virtual, or hybrid) that you’re interested in.

January

Sony Open in Hawaii. The Sony Open in Hawaii is held at the Waialae Country Club in east Honolulu in early to mid-January. Part of the PGA tour, the tournament attracts many of the top players in professional golf. It’s also one of the largest charity sports events in the Islands. wwww.sonyopeninhawaii.com.

February

Waimea Cherry Blossom Heritage Festival. On the first weekend in February, a celebration of Japanese culture on the Big Island takes place in conjunction with cherry blossom viewing in Waimea. See the Facebook page for information. wfacebook.com/p/Waimea-Cherry-Blossom-Heritage-Festival-100064661262713.

March

Honolulu Festival. Every year this event attracts participants and spectators from the Pacific Rim and beyond. The three-day celebration presents a variety of Asian, Pacific, and Hawaiian cultures in exhibits and events, including a craft market with artisans from across the world and a parade on Kalakaua Avenue in the center of Waikiki. whonolulufestival.com.

Kona Brewers Festival. On the second weekend of March. A celebration of suds, hops, craft beers, and home brews is held onthe grounds of the Courtyard by Marriott King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel in Kailua-Kona. wwww.konabrewersfestival.com.

April

Spam Jam. Hawaii loves its Spam, which is spotlighted during this late-April food event in Oahu. It’s a Waikiki block party with live entertainment, Spam merchandise, and food booths offering unique snacks, desserts, and more made with the canned meat. wspamjamhawaii.com.

Merrie Monarch Festival, mid-April. The most prestigious hula competition in the world attracts dancers from around the globe at this popular weeklong event in Hilo on the Big Island. wwww.merriemonarch.com.

May

Lei Day. Hawaii’s version of May Day is a treasured celebration. Festivities take place every May 1 on every island and include lei-making demonstrations and contests, hula, crafts, food, and live music.

June

King Kamehameha I Day. The celebration honoring the monarch who united the Hawaiian Kingdom takes place every June 11 with parades and other events throughout the Islands.

July

Hawaii Ukulele Festival. At this annual event, performers kani ka pila, or make music, with Hawaii’s favorite instrument, the ukulele. The Oahu festival is a reimagined version of a longtime event and also includes a craft village and a food court. wwww.hawaiiukulelefestival.com.

September

The Aloha Festivals. This quintessential late-September event celebrates the storied, vibrant culture of the Islands. Festivities traditionally include a block party, parade, music, and hula. Some events offered in-person and virtual options, so check ahead to see the format. wwww.alohafestivals.com.

November

Hawaii Food & Wine Festival. Held over several days at upscale locations across the Islands, this event features notable chefs from Hawaii, the Mainland, and abroad, as well as mixologists and wine producers. You’ll eat some of the best foods the Islands have to offer. whawaiifoodandwinefestival.com.

Kona Coffee Cultural Festival. On the Big Island in mid-November, nearly 50 events over a 10-day period celebrate Kona’s rich coffee heritage. wwww.konacoffeefest.com.

Contacts
d Air

AIRPORT INFORMATION Daniel K. Inouye International Airport. (HNL). E300 Rodgers Blvd., Airport Area P808/836–6411 wairports.hawaii.gov/hnl. Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport at Keahole (KOA). E73-200 Kupipi St., Kailua-Kona P808/327–9520 whawaii.gov/koa. Hana Airport (HNM). E700 Alalele Rd., Hana P808/248–4861 wairports.hawaii.gov/hnm. Hilo International Airport (ITO). E2450 Kekuanaoa St., Hilo P808/961–9300 whawaii.gov/ito. Kahului Airport. E1 Keolani Place, Kahului P808/872–3830 wairports.hawaii.gov/ogg. Kapalua–West Maui Airport (JHM). E4050 HI-30, 4050 Honoapiilani Hwy., Lahaina P808/665–6108 wairports.hawaii.gov/jhm. Lanai Airport (LNY). ELanai Ave., Lanai City P808/565–7942 wairports.hawaii.gov/lny. Lihue Airport (LIH). ELihue P808/274–3800 wairports.hawaii.gov/lih. Molokai Airport (MKK). E3980 Airport Loop, Hoolehua P808/567–9660 wairports.hawaii.gov/mkk. Waimea-Kohala Airport (MUE). EWaimea-Kohala Airport Rd., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/887–8126 whawaii.gov/mue.

MAINLAND AIRLINE CONTACTS Alaska Airlines. P800/252–7522 wwww.alaskaair.com. American Airlines. P800/433–7300 wwww.aa.com. Delta Airlines. P800/221–1212 for U.S. reservations, 800/241–4141 for international reservations wwww.delta.com. Hawaiian Airlines. P800/367–5320 wwww.hawaiianairlines.com. Southwest. P800/435–9792 wwww.southwest.com. United Airlines. P800/864–8331 for U.S. reservations wwww.united.com.

INTERISLAND AIRLINE CONTACTS Hawaiian Airlines. P800/367–5320 wwww.hawaiianairlines.com. Mokulele Airlines. P866/260–7070 wwww.mokuleleairlines.com.

j Bus

BUS Hele-On Bus. EKailua-Kona P808/961–8744 wwww.heleonbus.org. Kauai Bus. ELihue P808/246–8110 wwww.kauai.gov/transportation. Maui Bus. E2145 Kaohu St., Suite 102, Wailuku P808/871–4838 wwww.mauicounty.gov/bus. TheBus. EHonolulu P808/848–5555 wthebus.org.

TROLLEY CONTACTS Waikiki Trolley. EHonolulu P808/591–2561 wwaikikitrolley.com.

i Visitor Information

VISITOR INFORMATION Hawaii Beach Safety. whawaiibeachsafety.com. Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources. wdlnr.hawaii.gov. Hawaii Tourism Authority. wwww.gohawaii.com. Island of Hawaii Visitors Bureau. E68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., Puako jIn Shops at Mauna Lani P808/885–1655 wwww.gohawaii.com/islands/hawaii-big-island. Kauai Visitors Bureau. E4334 Rice St., Suite 101, Lihue P808/245–3971 wwww.gohawaii.com/islands/kauai. Maui Visitors Bureau. E427 Ala Makani St., Kahului P800/525–6284 toll free wwww.gohawaii.com/islands/maui. Oahu Visitors Bureau. wwww.gohawaii.com/islands/oahu.

WELCOME TO OAHU

TOP REASONS TO GO

Pearl Harbor: This historic memorial in Honolulu is a sobering, don’t-miss sight.

Waikiki: Busy but beautiful, with a perfect beach for first-time surfers.

Great food: Simple plate lunches, fresh sushi, creative Hawaii regional cuisine.

Polynesian Cultural Center: The famous luau provides insight into island culture.

Nightlife: From upscale jazz bars to local hangouts, Honolulu comes alive after dark.

North Shore: Shave ice, big waves, pro surfers, and a slower pace add appeal here.

Honolulu. The vibrant capital city is home to the nation’s only royal palace. It also encompasses Waikiki—dressed in lights at the base of Diamond Head—and Pearl Harbor.

West (Leeward) and Central Oahu. This rugged western side of the island has become a “second city” of suburban homes, golf courses, and resorts surrounding lagoons in the Ko Olina area. Although the interstate cuts through the region, fertile Central Oahu is an integral part of Hawaii’s rich cultural history.

North Shore. Best known for its miles of first-rate surf breaks and green sea turtle sightings, the North Shore is home to the legendary laid-back surf town of Haleiwa. This plantation area also has farms, restaurants, and hiking trails.

Windward (East) Oahu. The sleepy neighborhoods at the base of the majestic Koolau Mountains offer a respite from the bustling city. In the southeastern corner of Oahu, Honolulu’s main bedroom communities crawl up the steep valleys that flow into Maunalua Bay.

Oahu is one-stop Hawaii—all the allure of the Islands in a plate-lunch mix that has you kayaking around offshore islets by day and sitting in a jazz club ‘round midnight, all without ever having to take another flight or repack your suitcase. It offers both the buzz of modern living in jam-packed Honolulu (the state’s capital) and the allure of slow-paced island life on its northern and eastern shores. It is, in many ways, the center of the Hawaiian universe.

There are more museums, staffed historic sites, and guided tours here than you’ll find on any other island. And only here does a wealth of renovated buildings and well-preserved neighborhoods so clearly spin the story of Hawaii’s history. It’s the only place to experience Islands-style urbanity, since there are no other true cities in the state. And yet you can get as lost in the rural landscape and be as laid-back as you wish.

Oahu is home to Waikiki, the most famous Hawaiian beach, as well as some of the world’s most famous surf on the North Shore and Hawaii’s best known historical site—Pearl Harbor. If it’s isolation, peace, and quiet you want, Oahu might not be for you, but if you’d like a bit of spice with your piece of paradise, this island provides it.

Encompassing 597 square miles, Oahu is the third-largest island in the Hawaiian chain. Scientists believe the island was formed about 4 million years ago by three shield volcanoes: Waianae, Koolau, and the recently discovered Kaena. Recognized in mid-2014, Kaena is the oldest of the three and has long since been submerged 62 miles from Kaena Point on Oahu’s northwestern side. Waianae created the mountain range on the western side of the island, whereas Koolau shapes the eastern side. Central Oahu is an elevated plateau bordered by the two mountain ranges, with Pearl Harbor to the south. Several of Oahu’s most famous natural landmarks, including Diamond Head and Hanauma Bay, are tuff rings and cinder cones formed during a renewed volcanic stage (roughly 1 million years ago).

The northern and eastern sides of Oahu—and on each Hawaiian island—are referred to as the Windward side, and generally have a cooler, wetter climate. The island’s southern and western sides are commonly called the Leeward side, and are typically warmer and more arid. The island’s official flower, the little orange ilima, grows predominantly in the east, but lei throughout the island incorporate ilima. Numerous tropical fish call the reef at Hanauma Bay home, migrating humpback whales can be spotted off the coast past Waikiki and Diamond Head from December through April, spinner dolphins pop in and out of the island’s bays, and the 15 islets off Oahu’s eastern coast provide refuge for endangered seabirds.

Oahu is the most visited Hawaiian island because early tourism to Hawaii started here. It’s also the most inhabited island today—69% of the state’s population lives on Oahu—due to job opportunities and the island’s military bases. Although Kilauea Volcano on Hawaii was a tourist attraction in the late 1800s, it was the building of the Moana Hotel on Waikiki Beach in 1901 and subsequent advertising of Hawaii to wealthy San Franciscans that really fueled tourism in the Islands. Oahu was drawing tens of thousands of guests yearly when, on December 7, 1941, Japanese Zeros appeared at dawn to bomb Pearl Harbor. Though tourism understandably dipped during the war (Waikiki Beach was fenced with barbed wire), the subsequent memorial only seemed to attract more visitors, and Oahu remains hugely popular with tourists to this day.

Planning

Getting Here and Around

AIR

The Daniel K. Inouye International Airport (HNL)—also known as Honolulu International Airport—is roughly 20 minutes (9 miles) west of Waikiki (60 minutes during rush hour) and is served by most of the major domestic and international carriers. To travel to other islands from Honolulu, you can depart from either the interisland terminal or the commuter terminal, located in two separate structures adjacent to the main overseas terminal building. A free Wiki-Wiki shuttle bus operates between terminals.

BUS

Getting around by bus is convenient and affordable on Oahu, particularly in the most heavily touristed areas of Waikiki. Options include Honolulu’s municipal transit system, affectionately known as TheBus; the Waikiki Trolleys, brass-trimmed, open-air, hop-on-hop-off vehicles that look like trolleys or large double-decker buses; and brightly painted private buses, some of them free, that shuttle you to such commercial attractions as dinner cruises, shopping centers, and the like.

TheBus is one of the best bargains on Oahu. You can use it to travel around the island or just down Kalakaua Avenue for $3. Buses stop in Waikiki every 10–15 minutes to take passengers to nearby shopping areas. Although free transfers have been discontinued, you can purchase a one-day pass for $7.50. Just ask the driver when boarding. Exact change is required, and dollar bills are accepted. Monthly passes cost $80.

The company’s website has timetables, route maps, and real-time bus tracking, or you can download the free DaBus2 app for your smartphone. You can call to speak with a representative for route advice, or you can find privately published booklets at most drugstores and other convenience outlets.

The Waikiki Trolley has three lines—each beginning and ending in Waikiki—and dozens of stops that allow you to plan your own itinerary. A one-day single line pass starts at $18 (but just $5 for the Pink Line) and $55 for all lines. Four-day ($65) and seven-day ($75) all-line passes are also available.

The Ocean/Diamond Head Tour (Blue Line) stops at the Duke Kahanamoku statue; along Diamond Head and Kahala; the Halona Blow Hole; Sea Life Park; and Koko Marina. As its name suggests, the Ala Moana Shopping Tour (Pink Line) goes to the Ala Moana Center, a sprawling outdoor mall. The City Arts District Tour (Red Line) travels between Waikiki, Chinatown, and Kakaako and includes stops at the Honolulu Museum of Art, the capitol, Iolani Palace, Punchbowl Crater, and Ala Moana.

CAR

Thanks to public transit, you don’t need a car in Waikiki. Elsewhere on the island, though, a car can be invaluable. Avoid the obvious tourist cars—candy-color convertibles, for example—and never leave anything valuable inside, even if you’ve locked the vehicle. A GPS (either on your smartphone or a separate device) will help guide you through Oahu’s sometimes-confusing streets.

Reserve in advance to ensure availability (rentals can book up, especially during holidays and summer breaks) and to get the best rates. Also, be prepared to pay for parking; most hotels in Honolulu (and many outside of Honolulu) charge for parking.

Except for one area around Kaena Point, major highways follow Oahu’s shoreline and traverse the island at two points. Rush-hour traffic (6:30–9:30 am and 3 or 3:30–6 pm) can be frustrating around Honolulu and the outlying areas. Winter swells also bring heavy traffic to the North Shore, as people hoping to catch the surfing action clog the two-lane Kamehameha Highway. Parking along many streets is curtailed during these times, and tow-away zones are strictly enforced. Read curbside signs before leaving your vehicle, even at a meter.

Asking for directions will almost always produce a helpful explanation from the locals, but you should be prepared for a Hawaiian term or two. Instead of using compass directions, remember that Hawaii residents refer to places as being either mauka (toward the mountains) or makai (toward the ocean).

Other directions depend on your location. In Honolulu, for example, people say to “go Diamond Head,” which means toward that famous landmark, or to “go ewa,” meaning in the opposite direction. A shop on the mauka–Diamond Head corner of a street is on the mountain side of the street on the corner closest to Diamond Head. It all makes perfect sense once you get the lay of the land.

For those with a Costco card, the cheapest gas on the island is at the three Costco stations. There are warehouses in Honolulu (E525 Arakawa Street jBetween Dillingham Boulevard and Nimitz Highway); Waipio (E94-1231 Ka Uka Boulevard); and Kapolei (E4589 Kapolei Parkway).

RIDE-SHARING

Both Uber and Lyft operate on Oahu, including in designated locations at the airport. Although you may still want to rent a car while you’re on island—especially if you’re staying in or visiting the North Shore or towns on the east side of Oahu—ride-shares are good for quick trips and evenings out when you want to avoid parking or you want to imbibe.

TAXI

Taxis cost $4.30 at the drop of the flag, and each additional 1/8 mile is $0.56. Taxi and limousine companies can provide a car and driver for half- or full-day island tours, and a number of companies also offer personal guides. Remember, however, the rates are steep for these services, running $100 to $200 or more per day.

TRAIN

The first phase of the Skyline rail project, a 10-mile section between Halawa/Aloha Stadium near Pearl Harbor and East Kapolei, opened in 2023. Three stations have park-and-ride lots. This section is mostly for residents, though it may be useful for visitors to some West Oahu attractions. The next phase, opening in 2025, will include a stop at the airport; by 2031, the line will extend to Kakaako in Honolulu. The fare is $3, the same as TheBus; riders need a HOLO card, available at stations and various stores. For more information, check the website of Honolulu Transportation (whonolulu.gov/transportation).

Beaches

Tropical sun mixed with cooling trade winds and pristine waters make Oahu’s shores a literal heaven on Earth. But contrary to many assumptions, the island is not one big beach. There are miles and miles of coastline without a grain of sand, so you need to know where you’re going to fully enjoy the Hawaiian experience.

Much of the island’s southern and eastern coast is protected by inner reefs. The reefs provide still coastline water but not much as far as sand is concerned. However, where there are beaches on the south and east shores, they are mind-blowing. In West Oahu and on the North Shore you can find the wide expanses of sand you would expect for enjoying the sunset. Sandy bottoms and protective reefs make the water an adventure in the winter months. Most visitors assume the seasons don’t change a bit in the Islands, and they would be mostly right—except for the waves, which are big on the South Shore in summer and placid in winter. It’s exactly the opposite on the north side, where winter storms bring in huge waves, but the ocean becomes glass-like come May and June.

Hotels

If you like the action and choices of big cities, consider Waikiki, a 24-hour playground with everything from surf to karaoke bars. For an escape from urban life, look to the island’s leeward or windward sides or to the North Shore, where the surf culture creates a laid-back atmosphere.

Most of Oahu’s major hotels and resorts are in busy Waikiki, where you don’t need a car to reach key sights and amenities. Public transportation can get you around town as well as around the island. You’ll find places to stay along the entire stretches of both Kalakaua and Kuhio Avenues, with smaller and quieter hotels and condos at the eastern end of Waikiki and more business-centric accommodations on the western edge, near the Hawaii Convention Center, Ala Moana Center, and downtown.

Leeward Oahu, in the Ko Olina resort area, is about 20 minutes from Honolulu International Airport (40 minutes from Waikiki) and has great golf courses and quiet beaches that make for a relaxing getaway. Note, though, that you’ll need a car to explore, and all the resorts in this area charge hefty parking fees.

Other low-key options are on Windward Oahu—home to Turtle Bay, one of the island’s premier resorts—or the North Shore. Both have quaint eateries and coffee shops, local boutiques, and some of the island’s best beaches.

FHotel reviews have been shortened. For more information, visit Fodors.com. Hotel prices are for two people in a standard double room in high season. Condo price categories reflect studio and one-bedroom rates. Prices exclude 13.96% tax.

Nightlife

Oahu is the best of all the Islands for nightlife. The island’s few clubs are in Waikiki, but there are bars just about everywhere. On weeknights, it’s likely that you’ll find the working crowd, still in their business-casual attire, downing chilled beers even before the sun goes down. Though you might call it happy hour, the locals call it pau hana, which translates to “done with work.” Those who don’t have to wake up early in the morning should change into a fresh outfit and start the evening closer to 10 pm.

On the weekends, it’s typical to have dinner at a restaurant before hitting the bars at around 9:30. Some barhoppers start as early as 7, but even they usually don’t patronize more than two establishments a night because getting from one Oahu nightspot to the next often requires transportation. Happily, cab services are plentiful, and the rideshares Uber and Lyft give Honolulu a San Francisco feel.

The drinking age is 21 on Oahu and throughout Hawaii. Many bars will admit younger people but will not serve them alcohol. By law, all establishments that serve alcoholic beverages must close by 2 am. The only exceptions are a handful in Waikiki with a cabaret license, which can stay open until 4 am. lSome places have a cover charge of $5–$10, but with many establishments, arriving early means you don’t have to pay.

Restaurants

Oahu has undergone a renaissance at both ends of the dining spectrum. Consider budgeting for a meal in at least one pricey restaurant, where chefs such as Roy Yamaguchi, Ed Kenney, Chris Kajioka, or others you’ve seen on the Food Network and Travel Channel put a sophisticated spin on local foods and flavors. Dishes that take cues from Japan, China, Korea, the Philippines, the United States, and Europe are often filtered through an island sensibility. Take advantage of the location and order the superb local fish—mahi mahi, opakapaka (Hawaiian pink snapper), ono, and opah.

Spend the rest of your food dollars where budget-conscious locals do: in plate-lunch places and small ethnic eateries, at lunch wagons, or at window-in-the-wall delis. Snack on a musubi (a handheld rice ball wrapped with seaweed and topped with Spam), slurp shave ice with red-bean paste, or order Filipino pork adobo with rice and macaroni salad.

In Waikiki, you can find everything from upscale dining rooms with a view to Japanese noodle shops. By going just a few miles in any direction, you can save money and eat like a local. On Kaimuki’s Waialae Avenue, for example, you’ll find a coffee shop, a Chinese bakery, an Italian bistro, a dim-sum restaurant, elevated Hawaiian food, Mexican food, and a Hawaii regional-cuisine standout (3660 on the Rise)—all in three blocks and 10 minutes from Waikiki.

Chinatown, 15 minutes in the other direction and easily reached by the Waikiki Trolley, is another dining (and shopping) treasure, not only for Chinese but also for Vietnamese, Filipino, Burmese, and Mexican food. There’s even a chic little tea shop. Kakaako, the developing urban area between Waikiki and Chinatown, also offers a mix of local eateries, upscale restaurants, and ethnic takeout.

Although restaurants are fewer outside Honolulu and Waikiki, they tend to be filled with locals and are cheaper and more casual. Thanks to its popular Kailua and Lanikai Beaches, Windward Oahu’s dining scene features everything from plate lunches to creative regional offerings. Kapolei, once dominated by Mainland chains and fast-food joints, is now another area with a variety of quality eateries.

FRestaurant reviews have been shortened. For more information, visit Fodors.com. Restaurant prices are for a main course at dinner. Prices exclude 13.96% tax.

Tours

Guided tours are convenient; you don’t have to worry about finding a parking spot or getting admission tickets. Most of the tour guides have taken special classes in Hawaiian history and lore, and many are certified by the state of Hawaii. On the other hand, you won’t have the freedom to proceed at your own pace, nor will you have the ability to take a detour trip if something else catches your attention.

BUS AND VAN TOURS

Oahu Nature Tours

BUS TOURS | The company’s full-day, all-inclusive Ultimate Circle Island Tour has pickups from central locations in Waikiki and includes lunch at a North Shore shrimp truck and a walk to the Waimea Valley waterfalls. Among other highlights are the Halona Blowhole, Pali Lookout, Byodo-in Temple, Sunset Beach, and Dole Plantation. EHonolulu P808/924–2473 wwww.oahunaturetours.com A$149.

Polynesian Adventure

BUS TOURS | This company leads tours of Pearl Harbor and other Oahu sights and also offers a circle-island tour. P877/930–1740 wpolyad.com AFrom $62.

THEMED TOURS

Discover Hawaii Tours

SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS | In addition to circle-island and other Oahu-based itineraries on motor coaches and minicoaches, this company can also get you from Waikiki to the lava flows of the Big Island or to Maui’s Hana Highway and back in one day. P808/824–3995 wdiscoverhawaiitours.com AFrom $89.

E Noa Tours

SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS | This outfitter’s certified tour guides conduct circle-island and Pearl Harbor tours, with pickups from Ko Olina and Waikiki. E Noa also owns Waikiki Trolley. P808/591–2561 wenoa.com AFrom $61.

Visitor Information

CONTACTS Hawaii Tourism Authority. P800/464–2924 for brochures wwww.gohawaii.com. Oahu Visitors Bureau. P800/464–2924 wwww.gohawaii.com/islands/oahu.

Honolulu and Pearl Harbor

As the seat of government, a center of commerce and shipping, and an entertainment and recreation mecca, Honolulu plays many (sometimes conflicting) roles that make it a dynamic, ever-evolving urban delight. Hipsters and scholars, sightseers and foodies, nature lovers and culture vultures can all find their bliss in Hawaii’s only true metropolis.

Once there was the broad bay of Mamala and the narrow inlet of Kou, fronting a dusty plain occupied by a few thatched houses and the great Pakaka heiau (shrine). Nosing into the narrow passage in 1794, British sea captain William Brown named the port Fair Haven. Later, Hawaiians would call it Honolulu, or “sheltered bay,” and it gained further importance in 1804, when King Kamehameha I built a stately compound near the harbor here after reluctantly abandoning his Big Island home to better protect Hawaiian interests.

As shipping traffic increased, the settlement grew into a Western-style town of streets and buildings, tightly clustered around the single freshwater source, Nuuanu Stream. Not until piped water became available in the early 1900s did Honolulu spread across the greening plain, becoming both a city and a county. Two hundred years later, the entire island is, in a sense, Honolulu, which has no official boundaries, extending across flatlands, from Pearl Harbor to Waikiki, and high into the hills.

The main areas of Waikiki, Pearl Harbor, downtown, and Chinatown have the lion’s share of the sights, but greater Honolulu’s residential neighborhoods also have a lot to offer, including folksy restaurants and takeout places favored by locals. Visits to these areas also afford glimpses of classic Hawaiian homes, from the breezy, double-wing bungalows, with their swooping, Thai-style rooflines, to the tiny, green-and-white, plantation-era houses, with their corrugated tin roofs and window-flanked central doors and porches.

Also common are “Grandma-style” gardens and ohana houses, with smaller backyard homes or apartments allowing extended families to live together. In these districts, carports rarely shelter cars but instead serve as rec rooms—beneath the roof, parties are held and neighbors sit to “talk story,” and atop it, gallon jars of pickled lemons ferment in the sun.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

AIRPORT TRANSFERS

Some hotels have their own pickup and drop-off service, though they may charge a fee. Taxi service is available on the center median just outside baggage-claim areas. Look for the yellow-shirted taxi dispatchers, who willl radio for a taxi. The fare to Waikiki is about $45, plus 60¢ per bag and tip. An oversize baggage fee may apply. Uber and Lyft also serve the airport.

Another option is to take a private shuttle like Roberts Hawaii. The company will greet you at the arrival gate, escort you to baggage claim, and take you to your hotel. Call ahead for the service, which costs $26 per person one-way to Waikiki.

CONTACTS Roberts Hawaii. P808/539–9400 wrobertshawaii.com.

BUS

TheBus, the municipal bus, will take you into Waikiki for only $3, but all bags must fit on your lap or under your legs.

TheBus is one of Oahu’s best bargains. You can use it to travel around the island or just down Kalakaua Avenue for $3, with buses regularly stopping in Waikiki to take passengers to nearby shopping areas. Exact change (dollar bills are accepted) and the system’s HOLO cards are accepted. Indeed, you can ride all day for a maximum of $7.50 using a HOLO card; a weekly pass costs $30. Look into downloading the free DaBus2 or HEA app for your smartphone.

CAR

If you plan on spending most of your time in Hawaii in Honolulu, it doesn’t pay to rent a car for your entire trip, especially if you are staying in Waikiki. Hotels typically charge (a lot) for parking, gas is expensive, and traffic can be heavy, especially during rush hour.

PERFORMING ARTS

If all-night dancing isn’t for you, Oahu also has a thriving arts and culture scene, with community-theater productions, outdoor concerts, film festivals, and chamber-music performances, most of it centered in Honolulu. Major Broadway shows, dance companies, musicians, and comedians come through, too. Check local newspapers (and their accompanying websites)—the Honolulu Star-Advertiser or MidWeek—and HONOLULU Magazine for the latest events.

SHOPPING

There are two distinct types of shopping experiences: vast malls with the customary department stores or tiny boutiques with specialty items. That said, three Honolulu malls provide a combination of the standard stores and interesting shops showcasing original paintings and woodwork from local artists and craftspeople.

Although it’s easy enough to find designer merchandise and other items you can get back home, with a little effort, you can also find unusual Asian imports. Be sure to scout the malls for the slightly hidden shops, where a sale bin might contain the perfect, and truly unique, souvenir or gift.

In Waikiki, stores open at around 9 or 10 am, and many don’t close until 10 or even 11 pm.

Waikiki and Diamond Head

Approximately 3 miles east of downtown Honolulu, Waikiki is Oahu’s primary resort area. A mix of historic and modern hotels and condos front the sunny 2-mile stretch of beach, and many have clear views of Diamond Head. The area is home to much of the island’s dining, nightlife, and shopping—from posh boutiques to hole-in-the-wall eateries to craft booths at Duke’s Marketplace.

Waikiki was once a favorite retreat for Hawaiian royalty. In 1901, the Moana Hotel debuted, introducing Waikiki as an international travel destination. The region’s fame continued to grow when Duke Kahanamoku helped popularize the sport of surfing, offering lessons to visitors at Waikiki. You can see Duke immortalized in a bronze statue, with a surfboard, on Kuhio Beach.

Today there is a decidedly “urban resort” vibe here. Streets are clean, gardens are manicured, and the sand feels softer than at beaches farther down the coast. At first glance, there isn’t much of a local culture—it’s mainly tourist crowds—but if you explore the neighborhood, you can still find the relaxed surf-y vibe and friendly “aloha spirit” that has drawn people here for more than a century.

Diamond Head Crater is perhaps Hawaii’s most recognizable natural landmark. It got its name from sailors who thought they had found precious gems on its slopes; these later proved to be calcite crystals, a much more common mineral. Hawaiians saw a resemblance in the sharp angle of the crater’s seaward slope to the oddly shaped head of the ahi fish and so called it Leahi, though later they Hawaiianized the English name to Kaimana Hila. It is commemorated in a widely known hula—A ike i ka nani o Kaimana Hila, Kaimana Hila, kau mai i luna (“We saw the beauty of Diamond Head, Diamond Head set high above”).

Sprawling Kapiolani Park lies in the shadow of Diamond Head, which is just beyond the easternmost limits of Waikiki. King David Kalakaua established the park in 1877, naming it after his queen and dedicating it “to the use and enjoyment of the people.” In this 500-acre expanse, you can go for a stroll, play all sorts of field sports, enjoy a picnic, see wild animals and tropical fish at the Honolulu Zoo and the Waikiki Aquarium, or hear live music at the Waikiki Shell or the Kapiolani Park Bandstand.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Bounded by the Ala Wai Canal on the north and west, the beach on the south, and the Honolulu Zoo to the east, Waikiki is compact and easy to walk around. TheBus runs multiple routes here from the airport and downtown Honolulu. By car, finding Waikiki from H1 can be tricky; look for the Punahou exit for the west end of Waikiki and the King Street exit for the eastern end.

s Sights

HDiamond Head State Monument

STATE/PROVINCIAL PARK | FAMILY | Panoramas from this 760-foot extinct volcanic peak, which was once used as a military fortification, extend from Waikiki and Honolulu in one direction and out to Koko Head in the other, with surfers and windsurfers scattered like confetti on the cresting waves below. The 360-degree perspective is a great orientation for first-time visitors. On a clear day, look east past Koko Head to glimpse the outlines of the islands of Maui and Molokai.

Reservations to enter this popular park are required in advance for those who are not Hawaii residents, and an entrance and parking fee must be paid via credit card. You can reserve up to 30 days in advance; the last reservation is 4 pm. From Waikiki, take Kalakaua Avenue east, turn left at Monsarrat Avenue, head a mile up the hill, and look for a sign on the right. Drive through the tunnel to the inside of the crater. The ¾-mile trail to the top begins at the parking lot, and the hike up to the crater is steep, with numerous stairs to climb. So if you aren’t in the habit of getting occasional exercise, this might not be for you. At the top, you have a somewhat awkward scramble through a dark tunnel and bunker out into the open air, but the view is worth it.

As you walk, note the color of the vegetation: if the mountain is brown, Honolulu has been without significant rain for a while, but if the trees and undergrowth glow green, you’ll know it’s the wet season (winter) without looking at a calendar. Winter is when rare Hawaiian marsh plants revive on the floor of the crater. Wear closed-toe shoes or sneakers, a hat, and take bottled water with you to stay hydrated under the tropical sun. There are no water stations (or any shade) along the hike. Keep an eye on your watch if you’re here at day’s end: the gates close promptly at 6 pm. lTo beat the heat and the crowds, rise early and make the hike before 8 am. EDiamond Head Rd., at 18th Ave., Waikiki P808/587–0300 wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/oahu A$5 per person (for nonresidents of Hawaii), $10 parking per non-commercial vehicle.

Honolulu Zoo

ZOO | FAMILY | The world definitely has bigger and newer zoos, but this 42-acre facility features well-paved, walkable trails amid a lush garden with tropical flowers. To get a glimpse of the endangered nene, the Hawaii state bird, check out the zoo’s Kipuka Nene Sanctuary. Other highlights include a Japanese Giant Salamander habitat and an ectotherm complex, which houses a Burmese python, elongated tortoises, and a giant African snail. Though many animals prefer to remain invisible—particularly the big cats—the monkeys and elephants appear to enjoy being seen and are a hoot to watch. It’s best to get to the zoo when it opens because the animals are livelier in the cool of the morning. Children adore the petting zoo, where they can make friends with a llama or stand in the middle of a koi pond.

There’s an exceptionally good gift shop. On weekends, the Art on the Zoo Fence, on Monsarrat Avenue on the Diamond Head side outside the zoo, has affordable artwork by local contemporary artists. Metered parking is available along the makai (ocean) side of the park and in the lot next to the zoo. Parking is free at the lot across the street (at the Waikiki Shell), but it can fill up early. TheBus makes stops here along the way to and from Ala Moana Center and Sea Life Park (Routes 8 and 22). E151 Kapahulu Ave., Waikiki P808/971–7171 wwww.honoluluzoo.org A$21.

Kapiolani Park Bandstand

PERFORMANCE VENUE | FAMILY | The Victorian-style bandstand, built in the late 1890s, is Kapiolani Park’s stage for community entertainment and concerts. Founded by King Kamehameha III in 1836, the Royal Hawaiian Band is the nation’s only city-sponsored band and performs free concerts at the bandstand as well as at Iolani Palace and the center stage at Ala Moana Center. Visit the band’s website for concert dates (wwww.rhb-music.com), and check event-listing websites and the Honolulu Star-Advertiser—Oahu’s local newspaper—for information on other coming bandstand attractions. E2805 Monsarrat Ave., Waikiki P808/922–5331.

Waikiki Aquarium

AQUARIUM | FAMILY | This small yet fun attraction harbors more than 3,500 organisms and 500 species of Hawaiian and South Pacific marine life, including an endangered Hawaiian monk seal and a zebra shark. The Living Reef exhibit showcases diverse corals and fascinating reef environments found along Hawaii’s shorelines. Check out exhibits on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands (explaining the formation of the island chain) and Ocean Drifters (about various types of jellyfish). A 60-foot exhibit houses sea horses, sea dragons, and pipefish. A free, self-guided mobile audio tour is available via your own smartphone. The aquarium offers activities of interest to adults and children alike, with a focus on the importance of being eco-friendly and keeping our oceans clean. E2777 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/923–9741 wwww.waikikiaquarium.org A$12.

; Beaches

In 2021, the 2-mile Waikiki Beach—which runs from Hilton Hawaiian Village on one end to Kapiolani Park and Diamond Head on the other—underwent a major sand-replenishment project that added about 20,000 cubic yards to the shoreline. Although it’s one contiguous strand, it’s as varied as the people who inhabit the Islands. Whether you want to kick back and watch the action from the shade or you want to get out in or on the water, you can find whatever you need here.

If you’re staying outside the area and driving to it, park at either end of the beach and walk in. Metered parking is plentiful and affordable ($1 per hour) to the west, at Ala Wai Harbor, and to the east, at Kapiolani Park and the Honolulu Zoo. Resorts also have parking, but the hourly rates are high.

Duke’s Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Named for Duke Kahanamoku, Hawaii’s famous Olympic swimming champion and waterman, this hard-packed beach fronting the Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort is great for families. It’s the only stretch of Waikiki with shade trees on the sand, and its waters are very calm thanks to a rock wall that creates a semiprotected cove. The ocean clarity here is not as good as elsewhere, but this is a small price to pay for peace of mind about youngsters. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming; walking. E2005 Kalia Rd., Waikiki.

HFort DeRussy Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | A wide, soft, ultra-white shore with gently lapping waves makes this fine beach a family favorite for running-jumping-frolicking fun. Other bonuses include the shaded, grassy grilling area, pickleball courts, and many aquatic rental options. The beach fronts the Hale Koa Hotel as well as Fort DeRussy. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: swimming; walking. E2161 Kalia Rd., Waikiki.

Kahaloa and Ulukou Beaches

BEACH | This busy beach has everything: famous for the Canoes surf break, it’s the launching spot for most of the catamaran charters that sail out to Diamond Head several times a day, as well as the place for surfing lessons and outrigger canoe rentals. Chair and umbrella rentals are available, and great music and outdoor dancing beckon at the lively Duke’s restaurant, where shirt and shoes not only aren’t required, they’re discouraged. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel and Moana Surfrider are here. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: partiers; surfing. E2259 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki.

Kaimana (Sans Souci) Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Across from the zoo, at the eastern end of Waikiki along what is known as the Gold Coast, this small rectangle of sand is a local-favorite sunning spot for beach lovers of all ages. Although it’s usually quieter than the stretches of beach in the heart of town, it’s also close to the conveniences of Waikiki. Children can splash safely in its shallow waters, which are protected (for now) by the walls of the historic natatorium, a long-closed, Olympic-size, saltwater swimming arena. Serious swimmers and triathletes also train in the channel beyond the reef here. The Kaimana Beach Hotel and popular Hau Tree lanai restaurant are next door. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (fee); showers; toilets. Best for: swimming; walking. E2776 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki jAcross from Kapiolani Park, between New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel and Waikiki Natatorium War Memorial.

Kuhio Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | Featuring a bronze statue of Duke Kahanamoku, the father of modern-day surfing, this lively beach is bordered by a landscaped walkway with a few benches and some shade. It’s great for strolls and people-watching any time of day. Check out the Kuhio Beach hula mound Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 6:30 (at 6, November–January) for free hula and Hawaiian-music performances and a sunset torch-lighting ceremony. Surf lessons for beginners are available from the beach center every half hour. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: surfing; walking. E2461 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki jGo past Moana Surfrider Hotel to Kapahulu Ave. pier.

Queen’s Surf Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Once the site of Queen Liliuokalani’s beach house, this strand near the Honolulu Zoo draws locals and tourists of all ages. Lovely banyan trees offer shade, the bronze Surfer on a Wave sculpture by artist Robert Pashby honors surfing, volleyball nets welcome pros and amateurs alike, and waters that are part of an aquatic reserve provide superb snorkeling opportunities. The beach is also near what is considered the area’s premier bodyboarding spot: the break called The Wall. Be sure to walk out to the gazebo (where experienced boarders jump into the ocean) for stellar views of Waikiki and beyond. Amenities: lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; swimming; walking. E2598 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki jAcross from entrance to Honolulu Zoo.

r Restaurants

Waikiki has become a great destination for food lovers, with a new generation of innovative chefs and a renewed focus on using local ingredients, indigenous produce, and farm- and ocean-to-table cuisine. Although there are a number of familiar “chain” restaurants and traditional steak houses here, you can also find some solid choices for a variety of meals at all price points—from upscale dining rooms with a view to budget-friendly Japanese noodle shops.

Beachhouse at the Moana

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | At this elegant, indoor-outdoor restaurant in Waikiki’s oldest hotel, try for a table on the veranda, which overlooks the courtyard and a majestic banyan tree. Although the adjacent Veranda restaurant serves breakfast—and an exquisite afternoon tea Friday through Sunday—the Beachhouse is an especially delightful spot for a sunset dinner, featuring three- or four-course tasting menu options that use fresh, local ingredients. Known for: oceanfront dining; good cocktails and a long wine list; romantic setting. DAverage main: $50 EMoana Surfrider Hotel, 2365 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/921–4600 wwww.beachhousewaikiki.com CClosed Mon. and Tues.

HBogart’s Café

$$ | AMERICAN | Well established as a local favorite, this unassuming café is situated in a strip mall near Diamond Head and away from the bustle of Waikiki. It’s a great spot to grab a quick, delicious breakfast or brunch, including best-sellers such as the loco moco, açai bowl, bagel sandwiches, French toast, omelets, and other morning staples. Known for: a neighborhood staple and local favorite; Mama’s fried rice; some outdoor seating. DAverage main: $24 E3045 Monsarrat Ave., Waikiki P808/739–0999 wwww.bogartscafe.com CNo dinner.

HChart House Waikiki

$$$$ | AMERICAN | Enjoy sunset views over the yacht harbor, live music, and signature “Guy-Tai” cocktails at this Waikiki landmark opened in 1969 by surfing legend Joey Cabell. The extensive menu maintains the mid-century notion of fine dining, with oysters Rockefeller, shrimp cocktail, and steaks (including a bison tenderloin from Ted Turner’s ranch) alongside poke, macadamia-nut-crusted mahimahi, and the fan-favorite “Joey’s ahi mignon.” Regulars perch at the bar, and in the dining room, local families, couples, and tourists feast amid the dark, cork-lined walls while admiring the lovely marina. Known for: sought-after tables on the lanai (book well in advance); old-time steak-house atmosphere with live music and strong cocktails; generations of regulars, and popular weekend brunch. DAverage main: $52 E1765 Ala Moana Blvd., Waikiki P808/941–6669 wcharthousewaikiki.com CNo lunch.

Diamond Head Market & Grill

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Just five minutes from Waikiki’s hotels is chef Kelvin Ro’s one-stop food shop—indispensable if you have accommodations with a kitchen or want a quick grab-and-go meal. Join surfers, beachgoers, and Diamond Head hikers at the takeout window to order gourmet sandwiches and plates, such as hand-shaped burgers, portobello mushroom sandwiches, Korean kalbi ribs, and grilled ahi with wasabi-ginger sauce, rice, and salad. Don’t miss the bakery: locals love this place for the giant scones and desserts like lemon crunch cake. Known for: excellent desserts and scones; picnic fare for the beach; well-priced grab-and-go dinners. DAverage main: $15 E3158 Monsarrat Ave., Waikiki P808/732–0077 wwww.diamondheadmarket.com.

d.k Steakhouse

$$$$ | STEAK HOUSE | D. K. Kodama serves steaks that are free from hormones, antibiotics, and steroids—and come straight from Oahu’s first dry-aging room. Consider trying the 22-ounce paniolo (cowboy) rib eye—dry-aged 30 days on the bone and seasoned with a house-made rub—accompanied by a side of the popular and addictive potatoes au gratin, topped with Maui onions and Parmesan. Known for: local flavors, local ownership, and locally sourced produce and select meats; gluten-free and vegan options; sunset views from outdoor tables. DAverage main: $55 EWaikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 2552 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/931–6280 wdkrestaurants.com/d-k-steak-house CNo lunch.

Duke’s Waikiki

$$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Locals often bring Mainland visitors to this open-air restaurant, which has a lively bar and a beachfront setting facing Waikiki’s famed Canoes surf break. Named for the father of modern surfing and filled with Duke Kahanamoku memorabilia, this casual spot offers lots of pupu (appetizers), a large salad bar, and crowd-pleasing entrées that include fish, prime rib, and huli huli (rotisserie). Known for: iconic local spot with great views and a perfect location; Duke’s on Sunday is so renowned that musician Henry Kapono wrote a song about it; bar seating usually offers faster service. DAverage main: $28 EOutrigger Waikiki Beach Resort, 2335 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/922–2268 wwww.dukeswaikiki.com.

HEl Cielo

$$$$ | SPANISH | In the heart of Waikiki, El Cielo was opened in 2023 by chef Masa “Arnaldo” Gushiken, who creates incredible Spanish tapas and other international specialties based on his global expertise in places such as Japan, Los Angeles, and Spain. The interior’s serene, minimalist design establishes a sophisticated but relaxed ambience in several dining rooms. Known for: authentic tapas by award-winning chef; creative paellas and main dishes; an away-from-the-beach gem serving a unique cuisine for Waikiki. DAverage main: $44 E346 Lewers St., Waikiki P808/772–4533 wwww.elcielo-hawaii.com CNo lunch.

Hau Tree

$$ | AMERICAN | Countless anniversaries, birthdays, and other milestones have been celebrated under this lanai restaurant’s spectacular hau tree, where it’s said that even Robert Louis Stevenson found shade as he mused and wrote about Hawaii. Diners are captivated by beach views and spectacular sunsets, and fan-favorites dishes at this lovely, restaurant inside the Kaimana Beach Hotel include several versions of eggs Benedict in the morning and Kauai shrimp or grilled lamb chops later in the day. Known for: the romantic beach dining spot folks dream about (and reserve ahead); gorgeous views of moonlit water by night; an updated menu and attentive service. DAverage main: $29 EKaimana Beach Hotel, 2863 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/921–7066 wwww.kaimana.com.

HIsland Vintage Wine Bar

$$ | WINE BAR | Tucked away on the second floor of the Royal Hawaiian Center, this stylish, sleek, and cozy spot has a selection of more than 40 international wines by the glass—all served via a high-tech vending machine that uses prepaid cards. The food menu is limited, but a few favorites are braised beef sandwiches, poke bites with nori chips, and charcuterie plates. Known for: vending-machine wines by the glass is a bit gimmicky but fun; a subdued happy hour; nice cheese items from burrata to Brie. DAverage main: $26 ERoyal Hawaiian Center, 2301 Kalakaua Ave., Bldg. C, Level 2, Waikiki P808/799–9463 wwww.islandvintagewinebar.com.

HLa Mer

$$$$ | FRENCH | With spectacular Diamond Head views and an elegant, art deco–tinged interior, La Mer is an epic dining experience, where the second-floor restaurant’s windows are open to the breezes and the sounds of the ocean and Halekulani Hotel’s nightly hula show. Ideal for special occasions, the three-, four-, or seven-course French-influenced dinners might feature steamed Big Island kampachi (amberjack) tartare with fennel soup, Chilean sea bass with a vegetable “sphere,” roasted duck breast with kumquat confit, or rib eye with vegetables. Known for: it doesn’t get more romantic than this, and reservations are essential; impressive wine list and a sommelier to match; classy bar with cocktail and small-bite pairings. DAverage main: $160 EHalekulani Hotel, 2199 Kalia Rd., Waikiki P808/923–2311 wwww.halekulani.com/dining/la-mer CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch kLong-sleeved, collared (or aloha) shirts required for men.

Pupu r

Entertaining Hawaii-style means having a lot of pupu—the local term for appetizers or hors d’oeuvres—which are often served during pau hana, the Islands-style happy hour when locals wind down from the workday and enjoy a couple of drinks. Popular pupu include sushi, tempura, teriyaki chicken or beef skewers, barbecued meat, and the favorite: poke (pronounced “po-keh”), or raw fish, seasoned with seaweed, shoyu, and other flavorings.

Michel’s at the Colony Surf

$$$$ | FRENCH | This romantic restaurant on Waikiki’s tranquil Gold Coast features beachside sunset views and traditional French fare. It opened in 1962, and the surroundings reflect this, with lots of wood and stone, bow-tied servers preparing the restaurant’s “famous” lobster bisque and steak tartare table-side, and a charm that’s beloved by old-time locals but sometimes lost on younger diners. Known for: the sound of the surf and live music most nights; classic French cuisine with some local twists; reserve ahead for the pricey experience and retro vibe. DAverage main: $75 EColony Surf, 2895 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/923–6552 wwww.michelshawaii.com CNo lunch.

Morimoto Asia Waikiki

$$$$ | JAPANESE FUSION | Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto serves classics and new fusion favorites at his second-floor restaurant—a sleek modern, most neutral-hued space with a lanai (and water views), a gorgeous bar, and a dining room designed for entertaining clients or celebrating with friends. Enjoy some Morimoto specialties, including ishiyaki buri bop (yellowtail seared tableside with pickled daikon, royal fern, and egg yolk) or spicy black pepper steak, as well as dim sum, sushi, and creative specialty rolls. Known for: attentive service and great food; casual elegance in a lovely spot; Asian-fusion menu with enough classics to draw loyalists. DAverage main: $41 EAlohilani Resort, 2490 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/922–0022 wmorimotoasiawaikiki.com.

100 Sails Restaurant & Bar

$$$$ | ECLECTIC | FAMILY | The spacious, airy 100 Sails continues the everything-you-can-imagine buffet tradition (with crab legs and prime rib, of course), along with plenty of à la carte small bites, an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients, and a commitment to knockout presentation. And then there are the views—night after night, the sunsets over the harbor deliver stunning shows of color. Known for: high-quality international buffet for every meal; views and sunsets to rival those anywhere else in Waikiki; good happy hour platter. DAverage main: $60 EHawaii Prince Hotel Waikiki, 100 Holomoana St., Waikiki P808/944–4494 wwww.100sails.com.

HOrchids

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Perched along the seawall at historic Gray’s Beach, in the luxe Halekulani resort, Orchids is a locus of power breakfasters, ladies who lunch, and those celebrating special occasions at Sunday brunch or dinner. The louvered walls are open to the breezes, sprays of orchids add color, the contemporary international dishes are perfectly prepared, and the wine list is intriguing. Known for: ocean sounds and views, plus stellar service and a varied menu; live music at sunset; reservations are essential. DAverage main: $42 EHalekulani Hotel, 2199 Kalia Rd., Waikiki P808/923–2311 wwww.halekulani.com kCollared shirts required for men.

Side Street Inn Kapahulu

$$ | ECLECTIC | FAMILY | The original Hopaka Street pub is famous as the place where celebrity chefs gather after hours; this second Kapahulu Avenue location is also popular and closer to Waikiki. Local-style bar food—salty pan-fried pork chops with a plastic tub of ketchup, lup cheong fried rice, and passion fruit–glazed ribs—is served in huge, shareable portions. Known for: gets busy, so best to make a reservation; popular local spot with a crowd of regulars; sports-bar feel with lots of fried food. DAverage main: $27 E614 Kapahulu Ave., Waikiki P808/739–3939 wwww.sidestreetinn.com CNo lunch weekdays.

Teddy’s Bigger Burgers

$ | BURGER | FAMILY | Modeled after 1950s diners, this casual spot serves classic, tender, messy burgers—including the Hawaiian teriyaki burger with grilled pineapple and the Kailua with Swiss cheese, mushrooms, and grilled onions—along with turkey and veggie burgers, salads, and chicken breast and fish sandwiches. The fries are crispy, and the shakes rich and sweet. Known for: tangy Super Sauce; diner-style service, with food to go; local chain for dependable quick lunches across Oahu. DAverage main: $16 EWaikiki Grand Hotel, 134 Kapahulu Ave., Waikiki P808/926–3444 wwww.teddysbb.com.

HTiki’s Grill and Bar

$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Tiki’s is the kind of fun place people come to Waikiki for: a retro–South Pacific spot with a back-of-the-bar faux volcano, open-air lounge with live local music, indoor-outdoor dining, and a fantastic view of the beach across the street. Chef Ronnie Nasuti turns out beautifully composed plates and puts fresh twists on the super-familiar—like spicy “volcano” chicken wings, watermelon and feta salad, or Thai-style shrimp puttanesca. Known for: surprisingly good food in a made-for-TV setting that attracts locals; Pacific Rim menu inspired by a noted Islands chef; can get pricey, but a fun experience worthy of a hana hou (encore). DAverage main: $35 ETwin Fin Hotel, 2570 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/923–8454 wwww.tikisgrill.com.

HUMI by Vikram Garg

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Stylish, spacious, and accented with subtle modern art, this seafood-focused restaurant—umi means “sea”—by acclaimed chef Vikram Garg offers a feast for the senses in the stunning Halepuna Waikiki, the boutique sister property of the Halekulani Hotel. Garg works culinary magic in the kitchen with dinner specialties such as popcorn soup (with lotus leaves) and steamed branzino with takana rice (fried rice with pickled mustard greens), and food lovers can also discover unique breakfast choices such as the mai tai pancake and masala omelet. Known for: beautifully plated specialties served in a serene setting; boundary-stretching global menus; thoughtful drink options. DAverage main: $45 EHalepuna Waikiki by Halekulani, 2233 Helumoa Rd., Waikiki P808/744–4244 wwww.umibyvikramgarg.com CNo dinner Mon. and Tues.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Kai Coffee Hawaii

$ | CAFÉ | Serving up delicious coffee made with Hawaii-grown and-roasted beans, Kai Coffee Hawaii is an island favorite and has several locations. Featuring various coffee styles (including pour over and French press), this is a trusted spot for a fresh cup of gourmet brew or other beverages, such as hibiscus iced tea. Known for: açai bowls and crepes; variety of house-made snacks; welcoming vibe and friendly service. DAverage main: $14 EAlohilani Resort, 2490 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 131, Waikiki P808/926–1131 wwww.kaicoffeehawaii.com.

HWaikiki Food Hall

$ | FOOD HALL | FAMILY | At this bright, lively, upscale food court on the third floor of the Royal Hawaiian Center, you can feast on local and Japanese options ranging from massive, juicy burgers to spicy shrimp tacos to exquisite smoothies topped with colorful, edible designs—all emphasizing the use of fresh, local ingredients. Vendors here include Five Star Shrimp, Milk, JTRRD, Meatally Boys, POTAMA (Pork Tamago Onigiri), Honolulu Burger Co., Surfer’s Cafe, and Tap Bar. Known for: modern and spacious, with ample seating; options you can mix and match; Hawaiian craft beer at Tap Bar. DAverage main: $14 ERoyal Hawaiian Center, 2301 Kalakaua Ave., Bldg. C, 3rd fl., Waikiki jAbove the Cheesecake Factory P808/922–2299 for Royal Hawaiian Center wwww.waikikifoodhall.com.

h Hotels

A stay in Waikiki puts you in the heart of the action, and though parking can be difficult and pricey, you really don’t need a car as there’s ready access to the beach, restaurants, activities, and affordable public transportation. To be slightly removed from the main scene, however, opt for accommodations on the ewa (western) end of Waikiki.

The hotel selection ranges from superluxe resorts to small, no-frills places where surfers and beachgoers hang out in the lobby. Room sizes, styles, and configurations can vary tremendously even in the same hotel, so ask questions to ensure that you get an ocean view, say, or have other requirements met. Also inquire about extras: for instance, some hotels—even if they aren’t right on the sand—provide their guests with sunblock, towels, chairs, and other beach accessories.

HAlohilani Resort Waikiki Beach

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | The centerpiece of this modern, stylish high-rise, across the street from the beach in the middle of Waikiki, is the lobby’s mesmerizing aquarium, filled with nearly 300,000 gallons of seawater and colorful marine life. Pros: new and modern, with several on-site restaurants; cutting-edge fitness facilities and spa; excellent guest lounge. Cons: resort fee is $50 per day; large hotel that can feel impersonal; you must cross the street for the beach. DRooms from: $339 E2490 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/922–1233 wwww.alohilaniresort.com a839 rooms XNo Meals.

Aston at the Waikiki Banyan

$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Families and active travelers love the convenience and action of this high-rise hotel, often referred to as “the Banyan,” just a block from Waikiki Beach, the aquarium, the zoo, and bustling Kalakaua Avenue. Pros: many suites have great views, and many have kitchens; massive recreation deck for the entire family; heated swimming pool. Cons: suites are individually owned, so conditions can vary greatly; resort fee is $25 per day; sharing hotel with residents. DRooms from: $200 E201 Ohua Ave., Waikiki P808/922–0555, 877/997–6667 toll-free for reservations wwww.aquaaston.com/hotels/aston-at-the-waikiki-banyan a876 suites XNo Meals.

Aston Waikiki Beach Tower

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Here, in the center of Waikiki, you get the elegance of a luxury all-suites condominium combined with the intimacy and service of a boutique hotel. Pros: roomy suites with kitchens and quality amenities; great private lanai and views; a recreation deck with something for everyone. Cons: resort fee is $39 per day; you must cross a busy street to the beach; space, amenities, and location don’t come cheap. DRooms from: $699 E2470 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/926-6400, 855/776–1766 toll-free waquaaston.com/hotels/aston-waikiki-beach-tower a140 suites XNo Meals.

The Breakers Hotel

$ | HOTEL | With a homey atmosphere and a vintage vibe, this small, low-rise complex—two blocks from the beach and close to the Waikiki Beach Walk entertainment, dining, and retail complex—transports its guests back to 1960s-era Hawaii. Pros: intimate atmosphere with fabulous poolside courtyard; great location; kitchenettes and lanai. Cons: a bit worn down and dated; parking is extremely limited (but free); showers only. DRooms from: $199 E250 Beach Walk, Waikiki P808/923–3181, 800/923–7174 toll-free wwww.breakers-hawaii.com a63 rooms XNo Meals.

Coconut Waikiki Hotel

$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Overlooking the Ala Wai Canal, this reasonably priced boutique hotel has a more residential feel than the typical resort, with a cobblestone driveway, a lobby with rattan furnishings, a small fitness center, and a tiny swimming pool tucked in a backyard. Pros: no resort fee if booked directly; good bet for larger groups; some rooms have two bathrooms. Cons: walking three blocks to and from the beach on a busy street can be tiresome; only valet parking available, and free continental breakfast is limited; area is residential and removed from the action, particularly at night. DRooms from: $179 E450 Lewers St., Waikiki P866/974–2626 toll-free, 808/923–8828 wwww.coconutwaikikihotel.com a81 rooms XFree Breakfast.

Condo Comforts h

The local Foodland grocery-store chain has two locations near Waikiki, one in Market City in Kaimuki (E2939 Harding Ave. P808/734–6303) and the other in the Ala Moana Center (E1450 Ala Moana Blvd. P808/949–5044).

The popular ABC convenience stores have many locations. In addition to beach supplies, apparel, and just about everything else, some also sell packaged food, fruit, snacks, made-to-order meals, and alcoholic beverages.

DoubleTree by Hilton Alana – Waikiki Beach

$$ | HOTEL | A convenient location—a 10-minute walk from the Hawaii Convention Center or the beach—a professional staff, pleasant public spaces, and a 24-hour business center and small gym draw a global clientele to this reliable chain hotel. Pros: walkable to the beach and Ala Moana mall; walk-in glass showers with oversize rain showerheads; heated outdoor pool and 24-hour fitness center. Cons: lanai have city views; little local flavor; resort fee is $30 per day. DRooms from: $259 E1956 Ala Moana Blvd., Waikiki P808/941–7275 wwww.hilton.com/en/hotels/hnlkadt-doubletree-alana-waikiki-beach a317 rooms XNo Meals.

Embassy Suites by Hilton Waikiki Beach Walk

$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | In a place where space is at a premium, this resort in the heart of the Waikiki Beach Walk dining and shopping area offers families and other groups spacious, one- and two-bedroom suites stylishly decorated in relaxing earth tones with splashes of color. Pros: no resort fee; spacious and modern rooms with kitchenettes; free hot breakfast and happy hour reception daily. Cons: no direct beach access; lobby feels more like a business hotel; property can seem busy and noisy. DRooms from: $329 E201 Beach Walk, Waikiki P800/362–2779 toll-free, 808/921–2345 direct to hotel wwww.embassysuiteswaikiki.com a369 suites XFree Breakfast.

The Equus

$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | On the ewa (western) end of Waikiki, a block from both the Ala Moana Center and Ala Moana Beach Park, this modern, family-owned, boutique hotel has a Hawaiian country theme that pays tribute to Hawaii’s polo-playing history. Pros: free beach towels, chairs, and umbrellas; attentive staff; nicely furnished rooms. Cons: busy, hectic area; must cross a major road to reach the beach; resort fee is $25 a day. DRooms from: $169 E1696 Ala Moana Blvd., Waikiki P808/949–0061 wwww.equushotel.com a67 rooms XNo Meals.

HHalekulani Hotel

$$$$ | RESORT | Its name translates to the “house befitting heaven,” and this beachfront haven does, indeed, seem like a slice of heaven thanks to impeccable service and spacious guest rooms that are artfully appointed with marble and wood, neutral color schemes, modern furniture, updated technology, and bathrooms with oversize soaking tubs as well as showers. Pros: exquisite interior and exterior spaces; award-winning spa and wonderful bars and restaurants; no resort fee. Cons: might feel a bit formal for Waikiki; narrow beachfront with little room for sunbathing; lofty room rates. DRooms from: $759 E2199 Kalia Rd., Waikiki P808/923–2311 direct to hotel, 800/367–2343 reservations toll-free wwww.halekulani.com a453 rooms XNo Meals.

HHalepuna Waikiki by Halekulani

$$$ | HOTEL | The outstanding service and attention to detail at this high-rise boutique property are the same as what’s offered at its elegant sister hotel, the Halekulani, but without the beachfront location and higher prices. Pros: fresh, modern, and well appointed; great access to Waikiki Beach and Beach Walk shopping and dining; no resort fee. Cons: no direct beach access; rooms can be small; swimming pool can get busy. DRooms from: $376 E2233 Helumoa Rd., Waikiki P808/921–7272 direct to hotel, 800/422–0450 reservations toll-free wwww.halepuna.com a297 rooms XNo Meals.

Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort

$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Location, location, location: this five-tower mega-resort sprawls over 22 acres on Waikiki’s widest stretch of beach, with the greenery of neighboring Fort DeRussy creating a buffer zone between it and central Waikiki’s high-rise lineup. Pros: activities and amenities keep you and the kids busy for weeks (including Friday night fireworks); stellar spa and fitness center; a large variety of room options. Cons: size of property can be overwhelming; resort fee is $50 per day; parking is expensive ($49 per day for self-parking). DRooms from: $325 E2005 Kalia Rd., Waikiki P808/949–4321, 800/774–1500 toll-free whilton.com/en/hotels/hnlhvhh-hilton-hawaiian-village-waikiki-beach-resort a4,499 rooms XNo Meals.

Hilton Waikiki Beach

$$ | HOTEL | On the Diamond Head end of Waikiki and two blocks from Kuhio Beach, this 37-story high-rise is great for travelers who want to be near the action but not right in it. Pros: central location; every room has a lanai; pleasant, comfortable public spaces. Cons: resort fee is $30 per day; $45 a day (valet only parking); older property that shows some wear. DRooms from: $259 E2500 Kuhio Ave., Waikiki P808/922–0811 direct to hotel, 888/370–0980 toll-free whilton.com/en/hotels/hnlwahf-hilton-waikiki-beach a609 rooms XNo Meals.

Hotel Renew

$ | HOTEL | Just a block from Waikiki Beach, this unassuming but stylish boutique hotel focuses on wellness and renewal, making it a calm alternative to the big, bustling resorts that dominate the area. Pros: free beach supplies, including towels, chairs, umbrellas, and snorkel gear; personalized, upscale service; close to zoo, aquarium, and beach. Cons: no pool or on-site restaurant; daily amenity fee of $35; rooms are small. DRooms from: $185 E129 Paoakalani Ave., Waikiki P808/687–7700, 877/997–6667 toll-free wwww.hotelrenew.com a72 rooms XNo Meals.

Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach Resort & Spa

$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | There’s no other resort between the ocean and this high-rise hotel, which is across the street from Kuhio Beach and features a lively, atrium-style lobby with three levels of shopping (including a farmers’ market on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons), a two-story waterfall, gardens, and free live evening entertainment. Pros: on-site spa and many shopping and dining options; spacious rooms with soaring windows and lanai; beach chairs and towels for guests. Cons: in a very busy and crowded part of Waikiki; small on-site pool; resort fee is $45 per day. DRooms from: $325 E2424 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/923–1234 direct to hotel, 800/633–7313 toll-free for reservations wwww.hyatt.com a1,230 rooms XNo Meals.

Luana Waikiki Hotel & Suites

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | If you like Hawaiiana and appreciate a bit of kitsch in your decor, this welcoming hotel with both rooms and condo units is a great option. Pros: some rooms have kitchenettes or full kitchens; sundeck with pool and barbecue grills; on-site coin-operated laundry facilities. Cons: no direct beach access; resort fee is $25 per day; pool is small. DRooms from: $235 E2045 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/955–6000 direct to hotel, 855/747–0755 toll-free wwww.aquaaston.com/hotels/luana-waikiki-hotel-and-suites a225 units XNo Meals.

HMoana Surfrider, a Westin Resort & Spa, Waikiki Beach

$$$$ | RESORT | Waikiki’s oldest hotel (1901) is still a wedding and honeymoon favorite, with a sweeping main staircase and Victorian furnishings in its historic and expensive Moana Wing and more contemporary rooms in its 1950s-era Diamond Head Tower and refurbished Surfrider Tower, where oceanfront suites have two separate lanai—one for sunrise and another for sunset. Pros: elegant, historic property; lovely beach bar that often features live music; can’t beat the location. Cons: you’ll likely dodge bridal parties in the lobby; resort fee is $42 per day; expensive parking ($35 per day for self-parking across the street). DRooms from: $499 E2365 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/922–3111, 866/716–8112 toll-free wmarriott.com a791 rooms XNo Meals.

Ohana Waikiki East by Outrigger

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | If you want to be in central Waikiki and don’t want to pay beachfront lodging prices, consider the Ohana Waikiki East, which is a mere two blocks from the beach and within walking distance of shopping, restaurants, and nightlife. Pros: reasonable rates close to the beach; some rooms have kitchenettes; spacious accommodations. Cons: very basic public spaces; an older property with signs of wear and tear; resort fee is $27 per day and parking fee is $35 per night. DRooms from: $269 E150 Kaiulani Ave., Waikiki P808/922–5353 direct to hotel, 866/956–4262 toll-free wwww.outrigger.com/hawaii/oahu/ohana-waikiki-east-by-outrigger a441 rooms XNo Meals.

Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Resort

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | A prime location and aloha spirit keep guests returning to the Outrigger Reef, where rooms were renovated and the beach was widened in 2021, with 23 new rooms, a beachfront restaurant, and a luxury guest lounge added in 2022. Pros: on the beach; direct access to Waikiki Beach Walk; attentive staff. Cons: pool is not beachfront; views from nonoceanfront rooms are uninspiring; resort fee is $45 per day. DRooms from: $325 E2169 Kalia Rd., Waikiki P808/923–3111 direct to hotel, 866/956–4262 toll-free woutrigger.com a669 rooms XNo Meals.

Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Outrigger’s star property sits on one of the finest sections of Waikiki Beach, a location that, along with an array of cultural and dining options and great live-music and bar scenes, makes it a favorite. Pros: the best beach bar in Waikiki; on-site activities and amenities (including a spa) abound; excellent lounge that’s worth splurging on an upgrade to access. Cons: a busy property (often used as a pedestrian throughway to the beach); resort fee is $45 per day; rooms are dated. DRooms from: $450 E2335 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/923–0711, 808/956–4262, 800/442–7304 toll-free woutrigger.com a525 rooms XNo Meals.

Outrigger Waikiki Beachcomber Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Almost directly across from the Royal Hawaiian Center and next to International Marketplace, the Beachcomber is a well-situated high-rise hotel for families as well as those looking for a boutique feel in the heart of the action. Pros: great beach views from some rooms; renovated and stylish; lovely pool area. Cons: very busy area in the thick of Waikiki action; not beachfront; resort fee is $35 per day. DRooms from: $275 E2300 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/922–4646, 877/418–0711 woutrigger.com a496 rooms XNo Meals.

Looking for a Private Beach? ;

Oahu’s oldest hotels—the Royal Hawaiian and Moana Surfrider—are also the only hotels in Waikiki with property lines that extend into the sand. They have created private, roped-off beach areas with lounge chairs and umbrellas that can be accessed only by hotel guests for a fee. The areas are crowded and adjacent to the hotel properties at the top of the beach. They usually require reservations during the busy season, and guests often line up early in the morning to rent the chairs and umbrella sets.

Prince Waikiki

$$$$ | HOTEL | The sleek, modern Prince—which looks to Asia both in its high-style decor and such pampering touches as the traditional oshiburi (chilled hand towel) for refreshment upon check-in—has luxury oceanfront rooms and suites overlooking the Ala Wai Boat Harbor at Waikiki’s ewa (western) edge. Pros: fantastic views from all rooms; excellent club lounge (available with certain rooms); two pools (including infinity pool). Cons: resort fee is $39 per day; beach is a 10-minute walk away; rooms don’t have lanai. DRooms from: $495 E100 Holomoana St., Waikiki P888/977–4623 toll-free for reservations, 808/956–1111 direct to hotel wwww.princewaikiki.com a563 rooms XNo Meals.

Queen Kapiolani Hotel

$$$ | HOTEL | With a contemporary look combined with a retro nod to the 1970s, the Queen Kapiolani Hotel is a short walk from the beach and is known for its stunning, unobstructed views of Diamond Head—a fabulous backdrop for its expansive pool deck. Pros: convenient Deck Bar by the pool; beach gear available at valet desk; large collection of museum-quality art. Cons: resort fee is $40 per day; bathrooms are small and a bit dated; noise from pool bar can be bothersome. DRooms from: $320 E150 Kapahulu Ave., Waikiki P808/650–7841 wwww.queenkapiolani.com a315 rooms XNo Meals.

Hotel Cultural Programs h

In 2022, the state launched its Malama Hawaii program (wgohawaii.com/malama), which encourages visitors to learn about and care for the land and to seek authentic Island experiences. As part of this program, some hotels are offering special packages and voluntourism opportunities. Be sure to ask about them when booking.

Many of the larger hotels and resorts offer a variety of cultural activities for guests of all ages. In addition to lei-making and hula lessons, you can learn how to strum a ukulele, listen to Grammy Award–winning Hawaiian musicians, watch a revered master kumu (teacher) share the art of ancient hula and chant, chat with a marine biologist about Hawaii’s endangered species, learn about the island’s sustainability efforts, or get a lesson in the Hawaiian language or in the art of canoe making.

Royal Grove Waikiki

$ | HOTEL | This pink, six-story hotel feels like a throwback to the days of boarding houses—when rooms were outfitted for function, not style, and offered with simple hospitality at a price that didn’t break the bank. Pros: very economical Waikiki option; no resort fee; a bit of local flavor. Cons: no air-conditioning in some rooms; rooms and property are very dated; no on-site parking and minimum stays during busy seasons. DRooms from: $150 E151 Uluniu Ave., Waikiki P808/923–7691 wwww.royalgrovewaikiki.com a87 rooms XNo Meals.

HThe Royal Hawaiian, a Luxury Collection Resort, Waikiki

$$$$ | RESORT | There’s nothing like the iconic “Pink Palace of the Pacific,” which is on 14 acres of prime Waikiki Beach and which has held fast to the luxury and grandeur that first defined it in the 1930s, when it became a favorite of the rich and famous. Pros: choice of rooms in historic wing or oceanfront tower; mai tais and sunsets are amazing; luxury and sense of history in a prime location. Cons: resort fee is $42 per day; high-traffic driveway entrance in center of Waikiki; very small swimming pool. DRooms from: $525 E2259 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/923–7311, 866/716–8110 toll-free wwww.royal-hawaiian.com a528 rooms XNo Meals.

Sheraton Princess Kaiulani

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | The Princess Kaiulani sits across the street from the regal Moana Surfrider, without some of the more elaborate amenities (such as a spa or a kids’ club), but with rates that are considerably kinder to the wallet. Pros: in the heart of everything in Waikiki, with the beach right across the street; beach service with chairs, towels, fruit, and water available; great value for the location. Cons: lobby area can feel like Grand Central Terminal; self parking is $42 per night; resort fee is $37 per day. DRooms from: $269 E120 Kaiulani Ave., Waikiki P808/922–5811, 866/716–8109 toll-free wmarriott.com a1,040 rooms XNo Meals.

HSheraton Waikiki Beach Resort

$$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Towering over its neighbors along the beachfront, this big, busy hotel offers stunning views from most of its modern rooms, which received a major renovation completed in 2023 that features neutral shades with splashes of color. Pros: fresh, modern guest rooms; variety of on-site activities and dining options; swimming pools often ranked among the Islands’ best. Cons: busy atmosphere clashes with laid-back Hawaiian style; resort fee is $42 per day; room sizes and views vary. DRooms from: $485 E2255 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/922–4422, 866/716–8109 toll-free for reservations wmarriott.com a1,636 rooms XNo Meals.

Shoreline Hotel Waikiki

$$$ | HOTEL | Situated on bustling Seaside Avenue, this 14-story, 1970s-era property has been transformed into an urban-chic boutique hotel with both island and retro touches that playfully blend 20th-century style with modern necessities. Pros: great location in the middle of Waikiki; resort fee waived if you book direct; hipster decor a refreshing break from old-style Hawaiiana. Cons: if splashy colors aren’t your thing, skip it; rooms are inconsistently sized and equipped; pool is accessed via two flights of stairs. DRooms from: $379 E342 Seaside Ave., Waikiki P808/931–2444, 855/931–2444 toll-free wwww.shorelinehotelwaikiki.com a135 rooms XNo Meals.

Surfjack Hotel & Swim Club

$$$ | HOTEL | A surfing vibe and authentic, whimsical Hawaiian touches throughout (the lobby, for instance, evokes the living room of the interior designer’s grandmother) set this hip boutique property apart from other modernized midcentury digs. Pros: hipster, urban-chic vibe that works; retro, locally designed decor; Ed Kenney restaurant on-site. Cons: resort fee is $25 per day; far from the beach; rooms can be inconsistent in terms of updates. DRooms from: $325 E412 Lewers St., Waikiki P808/923–8882 wwww.surfjack.com a112 rooms XNo Meals.

Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Set on 5 acres across from Kuhio Beach and close to Kapiolani Park, the Honolulu Zoo, and the Waikiki Aquarium, this flagship Marriott offers daily activities for children and adults and has an expansive pool deck with ocean views, several pools, plenty of cabanas and lounge chairs, and the large, outdoor Queensbreak restaurant. Pros: massive pool deck; lots of airy, tropical public spaces; central location in Waikiki. Cons: large impersonal hotel, requires lots of walking; self-parking is $45 per day; resort fee is $50 per day. DRooms from: $399 E2552 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/922–6611, 800/367–5370 toll-free wmarriott.com a1,310 rooms XNo Meals.

Waikiki Shore

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Nestled between Fort DeRussy Beach Park and the Outrigger Reef Resort, the only condo hotel directly on Waikiki Beach is beloved by some for its spaciousness and by others for its quieter, western-end location. Pros: desirable location on the beach; great views from spacious private lanai; units available in different sizes. Cons: some units are dated and amenities in them vary; extra cleaning fee can be hefty; two management companies rent here, so ask questions when booking. DRooms from: $255 E2161 Kalia Rd., Waikiki P808/952–4500 Castle reservations, 808/922–3871 Outrigger reservations local, 800/688–7444 Outrigger reservations toll-free wwww.castleresorts.com a168 suites XNo Meals.

Wayfinder Waikiki

$$$ | HOTEL | This hotel refreshed in 2023 offers a fun vibe and lively design that mixes modern and traditional island elements, as well as close proximity to the beach, restaurants, and shops—all just three blocks away. Pros: fresh, colorful design; pool and hot tub; restaurant, bar, and coffee shop on-site. Cons: noise from the bar might annoy some; 10-minute walk to the beach; street noise from Ala Wai Boulevard can get loud. DRooms from: $300 E2375 Ala Wai Blvd., Waikiki P808/922–4744, 800/247–1903 toll-free wwww.wayfinderhotels.com/hotels/waikiki a214 rooms XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

HDuke’s Waikiki Bar

BARS | Making the most of its spot on Waikiki Beach, Duke’s is a bustling destination featuring live music every day. This laid-back bar-and-grill’s surf theme pays homage to Duke Kahanamoku, who popularized the sport in the early 1900s. Contemporary Hawaiian musicians like Henry Kapono and the Maunalua group have performed here, as have nationally known musicians like the late Jimmy Buffett. It’s not unusual for surfers to leave their boards outside to step in for a casual drink after a long day on the waves. The cocktail menu is filled with Island-style drinks: try a sunset sour or coconut mojito while watching the Waikiki waves. EOutrigger Waikiki, 2335 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 116, Waikiki P808/922–2268 wwww.dukeswaikiki.com.

Hideout

BARS | Located at the Laylow Hotel, this indoor-outdoor mini-oasis has a firepit, tiki torches, comfy couches, and palm trees swaying overhead. Although there’s a food menu, it’s best to come here for expertly mixed cocktails or mocktails and some pupu (appetizers)—perhaps the poke tacos or the pork belly Brussels sprouts. A daily happy hour from 4:30 to 6:30 pm makes things easier on the wallet. Reservations are advised. ELaylow Hotel, 2299 Kuhio Ave., Waikiki P808/628–3060 wwww.hideoutwaikiki.com.

Hula’s Bar and Lei Stand

Mai Tais n

Hard to believe, but the cocktail known all over the world as the mai tai has been around since 1944. Although the recipe has changed slightly over time, the original formula, created by bar owner Victor J. “Trader Vic” Bergeron, included 2 ounces of 17-year-old J. Wray & Nephew rum over shaved ice, ½ ounce of DeKuyper orange curaçao, ¼ ounce of Trader Vic’s rock-candy syrup, ½ ounce of orgeat syrup, and the juice of one fresh lime. Done the right way, this tropical drink still lives up to the name “mai tai!,” meaning “out of this world!”

DANCE CLUB | Hawaii’s oldest and best-known gay-friendly nightspot offers panoramic views of Diamond Head by day and high-energy club music by night. Check out the all-day happy hour, which starts at 10 am. There’s an abundance of drink specials on weekends and discounted pitchers of beer and cocktails on Sunday. Food options include nachos, tacos, pork sliders, and more. Celebrity patrons have included Elton John, Adam Lambert, and Dolly Parton. EWaikiki Grand Hotel, 134 Kapahulu Ave., 2nd fl., Waikiki P808/923–0669 wwww.hulas.com.

HLewers Lounge

COCKTAIL BARS | Set back from the main entrance of the Halekulani Hotel and decked out with dramatic drapes and cozy banquettes, Lewers Lounge is a great place for cocktails, both classic and contemporary. Standouts include Chocolate Dreams (made with Van Gogh Dutch Chocolate Vodka) and the Lost Passion (tequila, Cointreau, and fresh juices topped with champagne). Enjoy your libation with great nightly live jazz and tempting desserts, such as the hotel’s famous coconut cake. EHalekulani Hotel, 2199 Kalia Rd., Waikiki P808/923–2311 wwww.halekulani.com/dining/lewers-lounge.

Lulu’s Waikiki

BARS | Even if you’re not a surfer, you’ll love this place’s retro vibe and unobstructed second-floor view of Waikiki Beach. The open-air setting, casual dining menu, and tropical drinks are all you need to help you settle into your vacation. The venue transforms from a nice spot for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a drink (happy hour is 3 to 5 pm) into a bustling, high-energy club with live music lasting into the wee hours. EPark Shore Waikiki Hotel, 2586 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/926–5222 wwww.luluswaikiki.com.

HMai Tai Bar at the Royal Hawaiian

BARS | The bartenders here truly know how to mix up a fantastic mai tai. This is, after all, the establishment that first made the famous drink in the Islands. The pink umbrella–shaded tables at the outdoor bar are front-row seating for sunsets and also have an unobstructed view of Diamond Head. It’s an ideal spot to soak in the island vibes just steps from the sand. Contemporary Hawaiian musicians hold jam sessions on stage nightly, and small bites are also available. ERoyal Hawaiian Hotel, 2259 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/923–7311 wwww.royal-hawaiian.com.

HMaui Brewing Co.

BREWPUBS | The craft beers produced by this Maui-based company are Island favorites, and a visit to this sprawling, indoor-outdoor brewpub adjacent to the Outrigger Waikiki Beachcomber Hotel’s lobby means you don’t have to island-hop to sample its offerings at the source. Ask about limited-release drafts to imbibe the brand’s hidden gems, or order a flight of freshly brewed beers. Maui Brewing strives to source local ingredients for its beer and its food, and the menu here includes a poke bowl made with locally caught tuna, a kale salad that incorporates Waianae-based Naked Cow Dairy feta, and a Brewmaster pizza featuring Honolulu-based Kukui sausage. EOutrigger Waikiki Beachcomber Hotel, 2300 Kalakaua Ave., 2nd fl., Waikiki P808/843–2739 wwww.mbcrestaurants.com/waikiki.

RumFire Waikiki Bar

BARS | Locals and visitors head here for the convivial atmosphere, the trendy decor, and the million-dollar view of Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head. Come early to get a seat for happy hour (3–5 pm daily). If you’re feeling peckish, there’s a menu of tasty, Asian-influenced small plates. RumFire also features original cocktails, signature shots, and daily live music. On Friday and Saturday nights, the bar gets even livelier once local DJs start spinning. ESheraton Waikiki, 2255 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/922–4422 wwww.rumfirewaikiki.com.

Sky Waikiki Raw & Bar

LIVE MUSIC | This bar 19 stories above the city offers nearly 360-degree bird’s-eye views of Diamond Head, the Waikiki beaches, and the classic coral Royal Hawaiian hotel. It’s also one of the best spots to take in a Waikiki sunset. Be sure to order the popular SkyTai cocktail as you enjoy the views. There are also happy hour drink specials daily and a limited menu with fresh seafood. The indoor club, where resident DJs spin on Friday and Saturday nights, exudes contemporary-L.A. chic. EWaikiki Trade Center, 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/979–7590 wwww.skywaikiki.com.

p Performing Arts

LUAU

Royal Hawaiian Luau: Ahaaina

FOLK/TRADITIONAL DANCE | FAMILY | With a beachfront location in the middle of Waikiki, the Royal Hawaiian’s Ahaaina luau is an exceptional, upscale event with hula, fire dancing, live music, Hawaiian-inspired and luau-favorite dishes, and more. Options range from “standard dinner and show” to “premium dinner and show.” The three-hour event is held two nights a week (Monday and Thursday); be sure to reserve in advance during the high season. EThe Royal Hawaiian, a Luxury Collection Resort, 2259 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/921–4600 wwww.royal-hawaiianluau.com AFrom $200.

Waikiki Starlight Luau

FOLK/TRADITIONAL DANCE | FAMILY | This Waikiki luau is done spectacularly on the rooftop of Hilton Hawaiian Village. There isn’t an imu ceremony, but the live entertainment is top-notch, and the views are unparalleled. Prices vary depending on your age and where you want to sit. The event also includes dinner with traditional specialties, games, and cultural activities, such as hula lessons and conch blowing. It’s held Sunday, Monday, and Wednesday at 5 pm. EHilton Hawaiian Village, 2005 Kalia Rd., Waikiki P808/941–5828 wwww.hiltonhawaiianvillage.com AFrom $185.

MUSIC

HBlue Note Hawaii

MUSIC | Music lovers adore this intimate venue, which draws local and national acts—jazz, rock, reggae, pop, and more—throughout the year. Comedy acts take the stage, too. Acoustics are fantastic, and seating is at tables, all with excellent views. The atmosphere is sophisticated, and the food here is excellent, too, with small and large plates offered (there’s a $10 per person food or drink minimum). It’s worthwhile to find out who’s performing while you’re in town so you can purchase tickets in advance, since the more popular acts sell out quickly. This 300-seat room is centrally located at the Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort, so you can grab a drink at Duke’s before or after the show. EOutrigger Waikiki Beach Resort, 2335 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/777–4890 wwww.bluenotehawaii.com AFrom $35.

b Shopping

Waikiki’s hotels and malls or other shopping centers all have notable shops, and the abundance of name-brand and specialty items will be energizing or overwhelming, depending on your sensibilities.

Clothing, jewelry, and handbags from Europe’s top designers sit next to Hawaii’s ABC Store, a chain of convenience stores that sells groceries as well as souvenirs. Now more than ever, it’s possible to find interesting, locally produced items and independent stores in Waikiki, but you must be willing to search beyond the expensive purses and the tacky wooden tikis to find innovation and quality.

Larger shopping centers (including the Royal Hawaiian Center) may offer some type of parking validation with purchase, so be sure to check or ask in advance.

ART GALLERIES

Wyland Galleries

ART GALLERY | In addition to exhibiting the beautiful and inspiring work of the world-famous marine life artist Wyland, this expansive art gallery showcases works by a number of other artists, both lesser-known and highly acclaimed. There are also locations in the Oahu town of Haleiwa and on Kauai. E226 Lewers St., Waikiki P808/924–1322 wwww.wyland.com/galleries.

CLOTHING

Newt at the Royal

HATS & GLOVES | High-quality, handwoven Panama hats and tropical sportswear for men and women are the specialties here. EThe Royal Hawaiian, 2259 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/923–4332 wwww.newtattheroyal.com.

Oiwi Ocean Gear

CLOTHING | Featuring stylish, high-quality activewear especially for ocean, paddling, and beach enthusiasts, this locally owned shop was founded in 1999 in the nearby beach town of Kailua. Its original designs for men, women, and children are created in-house and showcase the ocean, nature, and unique images of Hawaiian culture. These items include shirts, rash guards, board shorts, surf leggings, hats, accessories, and more. Most designs offer sun protection (UPF apparel). ERoyal Hawaiian Shopping Center, 2201 Kalakaua Ave., Bldg. A, 1st fl., Waikiki P808/263–7770 wwww.oiwioceangear.com.

Waikiki Beachboy Store

SWIMWEAR | FAMILY | Tucked away in the Royal Hawaiian’s lobby, this tiny shop is a great place to pick up a memento of your surf lesson. It’s filled with a variety of high-quality Waikiki Beach Services gear, including the best-selling logo rash guards and T-shirts of the type worn by their beachboys and surf instructors. There’s also a selection of locally designed bathing suits from Pualani Hawaii, swimwear from the Colombian brand Maaji, accessories, sunscreen, and original artwork. EThe Royal Hawaiian, 2259 Kalakaua Ave., Shop 9, Waikiki P808/922–2223 wwww.waikikibeachservices.com.

FOOD

HHonolulu Cookie Company

FOOD | To really impress those back home, pick up a box of these locally baked, gourmet cookies. Choose from dozens of delicious flavors of premium shortbread delights packaged in a wide range of sizes, all designed for travel. In addition to the location in the Royal Hawaiian Center, the company has a number of stores in Waikiki, so you probably won’t be able to avoid them—or their free samples—even if you try. ERoyal Hawaiian Center, 2233 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/921–3330 wwww.honolulucookie.com.

GIFTS

HAloha Collection

HANDBAGS | Located in the Moana Surfrider hotel, the flagship store of this innovative company is filled with colorful, lightweight, “splash-proof” bags of all sizes, shapes, and styles—from tiny zippered travel pouches to eye-catching beach bags to oversize totes. The company continually offers new patterns and styles, so bag lovers will always find a unique beach- or travel-friendly option. EMoana Surfrider, 2369 Kalakaua Ave., Diamond Head Wing Shop #1, Waikiki waloha-collection.com.

Buying Flowers and Fruit b

You can bring home fresh pineapple, papaya, or coconut to share with friends and family. Orchids will also brighten your home and remind you of your trip to the Islands. By law, all fresh fruit and plant products must be inspected by the Department of Agriculture before export. Ask at the shop about agricultural rules so a surprise confiscation doesn’t spoil your departure. Shipping to your home usually is best.

HHouse of Mana Up

LOCAL GOODS | The groundbreaking Mana Up organization promotes Hawaii-based entrepreneurs and shares many unique locally made products with consumers. Its retail store in the Royal Hawaiian Center not only showcases innovative, Hawaii-made items but also shares the stories of the makers behind them. It’s fun to browse for gourmet chocolate, edible coffee bars, art, sustainable food wrappers, surf-inspired clothing, extra-comfy flip-flops (called slippers in Hawaii), children’s books, and much more. All the profits are used to support these small businesses. ERoyal Hawaiian Center, 2201 Kalakaua Ave., Space A111b (1st fl.), Waikiki P808/425–4028 wwww.manauphawaii.com.

Inexpensive Local Souvenirs b

Hawaii can be an expensive place. If you’re shopping for souvenirs or gifts, consider the following relatively affordable items, which are sold all over the island.

Locally published, Hawaii-themed books for children and adults can be found at places like Na Mea Hawaii/Native Books in Ward Village/Chinatown and BookEnds in Kailua.

Just when you thought peanut butter couldn’t get any better, someone added coconut to it and made it even more delicious. The coconut peanut butter from North Shore Goodies makes a great gift.

If you are a fan of plate lunches, Rainbow Drive-In (several locations) has T-shirts with regular orders—”All rice” and “Gravy all over” are some of the sayings. They come packed in an emblematic plate-lunch box.

Relive your memories of tea on the veranda by purchasing Island Essence Tea at Moana Surfrider in Waikiki. Harvested from a salt farm on Molokai, Hawaii Traditional Gourmet Sea Salts come in a variety of flavors, including black lava, red alaea clay, and classic. They’re colored to match their flavor, so they are beautiful as well as tasty.

Foodland makes insulated cooler bags that are decorated with uniquely local designs that go beyond tropical flowers and coconuts. Look for the Pidgin or poke designs. The Hawaii-themed reusable totes at Whole Foods are also very popular.

Made with all-natural ingredients from the Islands, like kukui-nut oil and local flowers and herbs, and even seaweed, indigenous bar soap is available online or in stores like Blue Hawaii Lifestyle in Honolulu’s Ala Moana Center.

HKeep It Simple

SPECIALTY STORE | Founded by local entrepreneurs Jillian Corn and Hunter Long (who is also a professional skateboarder), Keep It Simple strives to promote a healthier planet by selling high-quality natural, organic, and/or vegan items with minimal (or zero) packaging. Look for sustainable beauty and bath products; beachwear, cover-ups, and accessories; and items for the kitchen and elsewhere in the home. EWaikiki Beach Walk, 240 Lewers St., Waikiki P808/744–3115 wwww.keepitsimplezerowaste.com.

SHOPPING CENTERS

Luxury Row at 2100 Kalakaua

MALL | The ultimate destination for designer shopping in Hawaii is this elegant town house–style center, where high-end shops include Chanel, Coach, Tiffany & Co., Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Miu Miu, and Moncler. E2100 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/922–2246 wwww.luxuryrow.com.

HRoyal Hawaiian Center

MALL | This three-block-long center has more than 110 establishments, including an Apple Store and ABC Store, as well as local gems, such as Oiwi Ocean Gear, Mana Up, Fighting Eel, Honolulu Cookie Company, Koi Honolulu, Hawaiian Island Arts, Island Soap & Candleworks, and Royal Hawaiian Quilts. In addition to a number of restaurants, you can dine at the Waikiki Food Hall. Complimentary cultural classes, a theater, and nightly outdoor entertainment round out the offerings. Note for drivers: the center offers free parking for three hours with validation at shops and restaurants. E2201 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/922–0588 wwww.royalhawaiiancenter.com.

Waikiki Beach Walk

MALL | FAMILY | This open-air mall at the west end of Kalakaua Avenue and next to the Royal Hawaiian Center contains 70 locally owned stores and restaurants. Get reasonably priced, fashionable resort wear at Mahina or buy local delicacies from the Poke Bar. Of course, you can pick up T-shirts, bathing suits, and casual beach attire here, too. The mall also features free local entertainment on its outdoor fountain stage at least once a week. E226 Lewers St., Waikiki P808/931–3591 wwww.waikikibeachwalk.com.

Pearl Harbor

On December 7, 1941, the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor. It was the catalyst for the United States’ entrance into World War II. On that fateful day, more than 2,000 people died, and a dozen ships were sunk. Here, at what is still a key Pacific naval base, the attack is remembered every day by thousands of visitors. In recent years, the memorial has also been the site of reconciliation ceremonies involving Pearl Harbor veterans from both sides.

There are five distinct sights in Pearl Harbor, but only two are part of the Pearl Harbor National Memorial, with the others privately operated. Make reservations for the national park portion.

s Sights

Battleship Missouri Memorial

MILITARY SIGHT | FAMILY | The Japanese signed their Terms of Surrender after World War II on the deck of the USS Missouri, which was commissioned in 1944 and was the last American battleship ever built. To begin your visit of the fully restored vessel, pick up tickets online or at the Pearl Harbor Visitor Center. Then board a shuttle bus for the eight-minute ride to Ford Island and the teak decks and towering superstructure of the “Mighty Mo.” Join a guided tour to learn more about the Missouri’s long and dramatic history; there are also two options for upgraded tours. Near the entrance are a gift shop, a lunch wagon, and a shave ice stand. EFord Island, 63 Cowpens St., Pearl Harbor jYou cannot drive directly to the USS Missouri; you must take a shuttle bus from Pearl Harbor Visitor Center P808/455–1600 wussmissouri.org AFrom $35.

Pacific Fleet Submarine Museum

MILITARY SIGHT | FAMILY | The USS Bowfin claimed to have sunk 44 enemy ships during World War II and now serves as the centerpiece of the expanded Pacific Fleet Submarine Museum, which opened in 2021. Aboard the so-called Pearl Harbor Avenger, compartments are fitted out as though “Sparky” was away from the radio room just for a moment and “Cooky” might be right back to his pots and pans. Admission to the privately operated museum includes an audio tour. For safety reasons, children under four are not allowed aboard the submarine, though they can visit the museum. E11 Arizona Memorial Pl., Pearl Harbor P808/423–1341 wwww.bowfin.org A$22 xTickets available in advance or on arrival.

Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | FAMILY | This Ford Island museum documents the history of aviation in the Pacific during World War II and is housed in seaplane hangars 37 and 79, which survived the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941. The numerous interesting, and sometimes interactive, displays include the plane flown by President George H. W. Bush. You can purchase tickets online ahead of time, at the Pearl Harbor Visitor Center, or at the museum itself after you get off the shuttle bus that departs for the museum and the USS Missouri from the visitor center. EFord Island, 319 Lexington Blvd., Pearl Harbor jAccess is only via the shuttle bus to Ford Island from the Pearl Harbor Visitor Center P808/441–1000 wpearlharboraviationmuseum.org A$26.

HPearl Harbor National Memorial

NATIONAL PARK | FAMILY | Pearl Harbor is still a working military base as well as Oahu’s most visited attraction, consisting of five distinct destinations. Managed by the National Park Service, the Pearl Harbor Visitor Center and USS Arizona Memorial make up the national memorial, where exhibits tell the story not only of the devastating Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, but also of the wartime internment of Japanese Americans, World War II battles in the Aleutian Islands, and the occupation of Japan after the war. The history continues at three privately operated sights: the Pacific Fleet Submarine Museum (whose centerpiece is the USS Bowfin), the Battleship Missouri Memorial, and the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum.

A valid government-issued photo ID is required to enter the base. You can walk to the visitor center or the submarine museum from the parking lot, but access to the USS Arizona requires a ferry ride (and ticket reservations via wwww.recreation.gov), and access to other sites, including the USS Missouri and the aviation museum, requires a shuttle bus trip. lAdvance reservations are required to access USS Arizona Memorial. There are no same-day tickets except rare standby spots.

No bags of any kind except clear stadium ones—not even small purses—are allowed at any of the sights, though cameras, cell phones, and wallets can be hand-carried. A bag check is available. Children under four can visit the submarine museum, but for safety reasons, they are not allowed on the USS Bowfin itself. EPearl Harbor Visitor Center, 1 Arizona Memorial Pl., Pearl Harbor P808/422–3399 timed ticket reservations wwww.nps.gov/perl AVisitor center and USS Arizona Memorial free (aside from $1 ticket reservation fee); fees for other sites; parking $7.

HPearl Harbor Visitor Center

VISITOR CENTER | The gateway to the Pearl Harbor National Memorial and the starting point for visitors to this historic site has interpretive exhibits in two separate galleries (Road to War and Attack) that feature photographs and personal memorabilia from World War II veterans. There are also other exhibits, a bookstore, and a Remembrance Circle, where you can learn about the people who lost their lives on December 7, 1941. The visitor center is also where you start your tour of the USS Arizona Memorial if you have reserved in advance the requisite timed-entry ticket (wwww.recreation.gov; $1 reservation fee). EPearl Harbor National Memorial, 1 Arizona Memorial Pl., Pearl Harbor P808/422–3399 wwww.nps.gov/perl AFree (timed-entry ticket reservation fee $1).

HUSS Arizona Memorial

NATIONAL PARK | FAMILY | The USS Arizona, which was destroyed by a Japanese bomber on December 7, 1941, lies precisely where she sank. You must reserve your free tickets (wwww.recreation.gov) ahead of time to ensure access to the memorial. When your tour starts, you watch a short documentary film, then board the ferry to the memorial. At the site, you may scatter flowers in memory of the dead (but no lei—the string is bad for the fish). EPearl Harbor National Memorial, Pearl Harbor P808/422–3399 wnps.gov/perl AFree (advance reservation fee for timed-entry tickets $1); audio tours and other features cost extra.

Downtown

Throughout downtown, which is about 6 miles east of Honolulu International Airport, the city’s past and present are delightfully intertwined, as evidenced by the architecture. Postmodern glass-and-steel office buildings look down on the Aloha Tower, built in 1926 and, until the early 1960s, the tallest structure in Honolulu.

You’ll also find history in the cut-stone, turn-of-the-20th-century storefronts on Merchant Street; the gracious, white-columned, American-Georgian manor that was the home of the Islands’ last queen; the jewel-box palace occupied by the monarchy before it was overthrown; the Spanish-inspired stucco and tile-roofed Territorial Era government buildings; and the 21st-century glass pyramid of the First Hawaiian Bank Building.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

To reach downtown Honolulu from Waikiki by car, take Ala Moana Boulevard to Alakea Street, and turn right; three blocks up on the right, between South King and Hotel Streets, there’s a municipal parking lot in Alii Place. There are also public lots in buildings along Alakea, Smith, Beretania, and Bethel Streets (Chinatown Gateway on Bethel Street is a good choice). The best parking downtown, however, is metered street parking along Punchbowl Street—when you can find it.

Another option is to take the highly popular and convenient TheBus to the Aloha Tower Marketplace, or you can take a trolley from Waikiki.

s Sights

Hawaii State Capitol

GOVERNMENT BUILDING | The capitol’s architecture is richly symbolic: the columns resemble palm trees, the legislative chambers are shaped like volcanic cinder cones, and the central court is open to the sky, representing Hawaii’s open society. Replicas of the Hawaii state seal, each weighing 7,500 pounds, hang above both its entrances. The building, which in 1969 replaced Iolani Palace as the seat of government, is surrounded by reflecting pools, just as the Islands are embraced by water. A pair of statues, often draped in lei, flank the building: one of the beloved Queen Liliuokalani and the other of the sainted Father Damien de Veuster, famous for helping Molokai’s Hansen’s disease (leprosy) patients. You can take a self-guided tour of the capitol using a brochure provided online or in person (Room 415 at the capitol) by the governor’s office. E415 S. Beretania St., Downtown P808/586–0221 wgovernor.hawaii.gov/contact-us/hawaii-state-capitol-tours AFree CClosed weekends.

HHonolulu Museum of Art

ART MUSEUM | The museum holds an impressive permanent collection that includes the third-largest assembly of Hiroshige’s ukiyo-e Japanese prints in the country (donated by author James Michener); Italian Renaissance paintings; American and European art by Monet, Van Gogh, and Whistler, among many others; and a newer gallery of Hawaiian art. Originally built around the collection of a Honolulu matron who donated much of her estate to the museum, it is housed in a maze of courtyards, cloistered walkways, and quiet, low-ceiling spaces. The newer Luce Pavilion complex, nicely incorporated into the more traditional architecture of the museum, has a traveling-exhibit gallery, an excellent café, and a gift shop. The Doris Duke Theatre screens art films. This is also the jumping-off point for tours of Doris Duke’s striking estate, which is now the Shangri La Museum of Islamic Art, Culture, and Design. lIf you wish to visit Shangri La, you should reserve tickets well in advance. E900 S. Beretania St., Downtown P808/532–8700 whonolulumuseum.org A$20 CClosed Mon.–Wed.

Shangri La s

The marriage of tobacco heiress Doris Duke (1912–93) to a much older man when she was 23 didn’t last. But their around-the-world honeymoon did leave her with two lasting loves: Islamic art and architecture, which she first encountered on that journey; and Hawaii, where the honeymooners made an extended stay while Doris learned to surf and befriended Islanders unimpressed by her wealth.

Today, visitors to her beloved Oahu home—where she spent most winters—can share both loves by touring her estate. The sought-after tours are coordinated by and begin at the Honolulu Museum of Art in downtown Honolulu. A short van ride then takes small groups to the house itself, on the far side of Diamond Head.

FFor more information, see the listing in Windward (East) Oahu.

HIolani Palace

CASTLE/PALACE | America’s only official royal residence, on the site of an earlier palace, was completed in 1882 and contains the thrones of King Kalakaua and his successor (and sister) Queen Liliuokalani. Bucking the stereotype of simple island life, the palace had electric lights even before the White House. Downstairs galleries showcase the royal jewelry, as well as a kitchen and offices that have been restored to the glory of the monarchy era. The palace gift shop and ticket office are in what was formerly the Iolani Barracks, built to house the Royal Guard. The palace has self-guided audio tours, docent-led tours, and specialty tours. lIt’s best to make reservations for guided tours a few days in advance. E364 S. King St., Downtown P808/522–0832 wwww.iolanipalace.org A$33 guided tour, $27 audio tour CClosed Sun. and Mon. (except for monthly Kamaaina Sun.).

Kamehameha I Statue

PUBLIC ART | Honoring the Big Island chieftain who united all the warring Hawaiian Islands into one kingdom in the early 19th century, this statue, which stands with one arm outstretched in welcome, is one of two cast in Paris by American sculptor T. R. Gould. The original statue, lost at sea and replaced by this one, was eventually salvaged and is now in Kapaau, on the Big Island, near the king’s birthplace. Each year on the king’s birthday (June 11), the more famous copy is draped in fresh lei that reach lengths of 18 feet and longer. A parade proceeds past the statue, and Hawaiian civic clubs, women in hats and impressive long holoku dresses, and men in sashes and cummerbunds honor the leader, whose name means “The One Set Apart.” E417 S. King St., outside Aliiolani Hale, Downtown wwww.gohawaii.com/islands/oahu.

Kawaiahao Church

CHURCH | Called Hawaii’s Westminster Abbey, this historic house of worship was completed in 1842 and witnessed the coronations, weddings, and funerals of generations of Hawaiian royalty. Each of the building’s 14,000 coral blocks was quarried from reefs offshore at depths of more than 20 feet and transported to this site. Interior woodwork was created from the forests of the Koolau Mountains, and the upper gallery displays paintings of the royal families. The graves of missionaries and of King Lunalilo are adjacent. Services in English, with songs and prayers in Hawaiian, are held each Sunday (Kawaiahao’s affiliation is United Church of Christ). You can follow a free audio tour of the church and grounds or just look around by yourself. E957 Punchbowl St., at King St., Downtown P808/469–3000 wkawaiahaochurch.com AFree.

r Restaurants

Honolulu Museum of Art Café

$$ | AMERICAN | The Honolulu Museum of Art’s cool courtyards and galleries filled with works by masters from Monet to Hokusai are well worth a visit, and, afterward, so is this popular lunch restaurant (reservations recommended). The open-air café is flanked by a burbling water feature and 8-foot-tall ceramic “dumplings” by artist Jun Kaneko—a tranquil setting in which to eat your salad or sandwich, shaded by a monkeypod tree. Known for: piadina pesto-caprese flatbread sandwich; limited but beautifully prepared menu of soups, salads, sandwiches, and mains; nice spot for Sunday brunch. DAverage main: $20 EHonolulu Museum of Art, 900 S. Beretania St., Downtown P808/532–8734 whonolulumuseum.org/cafe CClosed Mon. and Tues. No dinner Sat.–Thurs.

Yanagi Sushi

$$ | JAPANESE | Serving a complete menu until 1 am, this restaurant decorated with photos of food and people who have stopped by offers not only delicious sushi and sashimi around a small bar, but also teishoku (combination menus), tempura, stews, and cook-it-yourself shabu-shabu at tables. The fish can be depended on for freshness and variety. Known for: late-night happy hour; baked crabmeat volcano roll, spicy shrimp tempura roll, live abalone sashimi; local favorite. DAverage main: $30 E762 Kapiolani Blvd., Downtown P808/597–1525 wwww.yanagisushi-hawaii.com CClosed Sun.

n Nightlife

HBar Leather Apron

COCKTAIL BARS | Winner of a James Beard Award for Outstanding Bar in 2023, this cocktail bar is oddly situated in the mezzanine of an office building and seats only six at the bar, along with a few other tables. You’ll need some luck to snag reservations (or close watching of the Resy app) to enjoy bespoke cocktails that utilize only the finest liquors and ingredients. Owners Tom Park and Justin Park (no relation) have cultivated a reputation for their E Hoo Pau Mai Tai made with an eight-year-old, raisin-infused El Dorado rum and another 12-year-old El Dorado rum, as well as coconut water syrup, spiced orgeat, ohia blossom honey, lime, vanilla, and absinthe—all served with a kiawe wood–smoke presentation. ETopa Financial Center, 745 Fort St., Mezzanine Level, Suite 127A, Downtown P808/524–0808 wwww.barleatherapron.com.

Murphy’s Bar & Grill

PUB | On the edge of Chinatown and the financial district, this bar has served drinks to such locals and visitors as King Kalakaua and Robert Louis Stevenson since the late 1800s. The kind of Irish pub you would find in Boston, Murphy’s offers a break from all the tropical, fruit-garnished drinks found in Waikiki, and it’s definitely the place to be on St. Patrick’s Day. Friendly bartenders and waitstaff serve Guinness on tap, pub food favorites, and Irish specialties like corned beef and cabbage and shepherd’s pie. If you time it right, you can try their incredible house-made pies, which are served only on Friday and quickly sell out. E2 Merchant St., Downtown P808/531–0422 wwww.murphyshawaii.com.

p Performing Arts

DINNER CRUISES AND SHOWS

Atlantis Cruises

THEMED ENTERTAINMENT | The sleekly high-tech Majestic, designed to sail smoothly in rough waters, powers farther along Waikiki’s coastline than its competitors. Enjoy seasonal whale-watching trips between January and March during the day or year-round sunset cocktail and dinner cruises aboard the 400-passenger boat. (Atlantis is also known for its submarine tours off Waikiki.) The boat’s dining room is elegantly laid out, and the standard Hawaiian buffet fare perfectly accompanies the tropical cocktails, sparkling wine, beer, or guava juice. Most passengers are honeymooners and those celebrating anniversaries and birthdays—or even the occasional proposal—and this, plus the Hawaiian music, makes the atmosphere festive. For the best view of Waikiki and the sunset, head to the top deck. E1 Aloha Tower Rd., Pier 6, Downtown P808/973–9800, 800/381–0237 toll-free wmajestichawaii.com.

Chinatown

Chinatown’s original business district was made up of dry-goods and produce merchants, tailors and dressmakers, barbers and herbalists. The meat, fish, and produce stalls remain, but the mix is heavier now on gift and curio stores, lei stands, jewelry shops, and bakeries, with a smattering of noodle makers and travel agents and dozens of restaurants.

The name “Chinatown” here has always been a misnomer. Though three-quarters of Oahu’s Chinese lived closely packed in these 25 acres in the late 1800s, even then the neighborhood was half Japanese. Today you hear Vietnamese and Tagalog as often as Mandarin and Cantonese, and there are voices of Japan, Singapore, Malaysia, Korea, Thailand, Samoa, and the Marshall Islands, as well.

Perhaps a more accurate name is the one used by early Chinese: Wah Fau (Chinese port), signifying a landing and jumping-off place. As soon as they finished their plantation contracts, Chinese laborers hurried into the city to start businesses here. It’s a launching point for today’s immigrants, too: Southeast Asian shops almost outnumber Chinese establishments; stalls carry Filipino specialties like winged beans and goat meat; and you’ll find Japanese, Cambodian, Laotian, Thai, and Korean cuisine and goods for sale.

In the half century after the first Chinese laborers arrived in Hawaii in 1852, Chinatown was a link to home for the all-male cadre of workers who planned to return to China rich and respected. Merchants not only sold supplies, they held mail, loaned money, wrote letters, translated documents, sent remittances to families, served meals, offered rough bunkhouse accommodations, and were the center for news, gossip, and socializing.

Although much happened to Chinatown in the 20th century—beginning in January 1900, when almost the entire neighborhood was burned to the ground to halt the spread of bubonic plague—it remains a bustling, crowded, noisy, and odiferous place bent primarily on buying and selling and sublimely oblivious to its status as a National Historic District or encroaching gentrification.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Chinatown occupies 15 blocks immediately north of downtown Honolulu—it’s flat, compact, and very walkable. Street parking can be hard to find depending on the time and day of the week. There are many paid municipal and private parking lots with varying rates.

s Sights

Izumo Taishakyo Mission of Hawaii

SHRINE | From Chinatown Cultural Plaza, cross a stone bridge to the Izumo Taishakyo Mission of Hawaii to visit the shrine established in 1906. It honors Okuninushi-no-Mikoto, a kami (god) who is believed in Shinto tradition to bring good fortune if properly courted (and thanked afterward). E215 N. Kukui St., Chinatown jAt the canal P808/538–7778 wizumotaishahawaii.com.

Kuan Yin Temple

TEMPLE | A couple of blocks mauka (toward the mountains) from Chinatown is the oldest Buddhist temple in the Islands. Mistakenly called a goddess by some, Kuan Yin, also known as Kannon, is a bodhisattva—one who chose to remain on Earth doing good even after achieving enlightenment. Transformed from a male into a female figure centuries ago, she is credited with being particularly sympathetic to women. You will see representations of her all over the Islands: holding a lotus flower (beauty from the mud of human frailty), as at the temple; pouring out a pitcher of oil (like mercy flowing); or as a sort of Madonna with a child. Visitors are permitted but should be mindful that this is a practicing place of worship. E170 N. Vineyard Blvd., Chinatown jPark at Foster Botanical Garden P808/533–6361.

Maunakea Marketplace

MARKET | FAMILY | On the corner of Maunakea and Hotel streets is this busy plaza surrounded by shops and an air-conditioned indoor market and food court where you can buy fresh seafood and seasonal local produce or chow down on banana lumpia (spring rolls) and fruit smoothies or bubble tea (juices and flavored teas with tapioca balls inside). It gets packed during Chinese Lunar New Year. E1120 Maunakea St., Chinatown wgeyserholdings.com/maunakea.

Oahu Market

MARKET | FAMILY | In this tenant-owned market founded in 1904, you’ll find a taste of old-style Chinatown, where you might spot a whole butchered pig, head intact, on display, and where glassy-eyed fish of every size and hue lie forlornly on ice. Magenta dragonfruit, ready-to-eat char siu (Cantonese barbecued pork) and pork belly, and bins brimming with produce add to the color. You’ll find some of the cheapest Oahu prices on fruits and vegetables in this and other Chinatown markets. E145 N. King St., Chinatown jAt Kekaulike St.

r Restaurants

Fête

$$ | AMERICAN | At lunch, regulars pack into this tiny, brick-walled space for the burgers and specials; at dinner, they come for the pasta and locally sourced seafood dishes or the to-die-for twice-fried Kauai chicken with grits and collard greens. Here, you’ll probably get cozy with the table next to you as waitstaffers glide between tables with full trays and great attitudes. Known for: Brooklyn-meets-Hawaii menu; great pau hana (happy hour) menu; craft cocktails and extensive drink menu. DAverage main: $25 E2 N. Hotel St., Chinatown P808/369–1390 wfetehawaii.com CClosed Sun.

Legend Seafood Restaurant

$ | CHINESE | At this large Chinatown institution, the dim sum cart ladies stop at your table and show you their Hong Kong–style fare. If you come for breakfast dim sum, arrive before 9 am, especially on weekends, if you want to hear yourself think. Known for: still-warm custard tarts; dim sum, reasonably priced by the dish; easy parking in the cultural plaza parking lot. DAverage main: $16 EChinese Cultural Plaza, 100 N. Beretania St., Suite 108, Chinatown jIn the Chinatown Cultural Plaza P808/532–1868 wwww.legendseafoodhonolulu.com.

Livestock Tavern

$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Livestock Tavern scores big with its seasonal offerings of updated comfort foods and craft cocktails and its cowboy-minimalist decor. Although meat, including some of the best burgers in town, commands the menu, offerings like burrata, creative salads, sandwiches, and fish round out the possibilities. Known for: lively bar scene; good weekend brunch; fresh-cut fries. DAverage main: $40 E49 N. Hotel St., Chinatown P808/537–2577 wlivestocktavern.com CNo lunch weekdays.

Pho To Chau Restaurant

$ | VIETNAMESE | This hole-in-the-wall storefront was the go-to spot for pho with all the trimmings long before hipsters and foodies found Chinatown. Many Vietnamese restaurants have since opened, and some have surpassed To Chau’s quality—it’s all in the broth—but eating habits die hard in this city. Known for: no-frills service and sometimes a wait for food once seated; old-school, 1970s decor, and no credit cards or reservations; large pho can be easily shared. DAverage main: $10 E1007 River St., Chinatown P808/533–4549 cNo credit cards CNo dinner.

HThe Pig and the Lady

$$ | ASIAN | Chef Andrew Le’s casual noodle house attracts downtown office workers by day and becomes a creative contemporary restaurant at night, pulling in serious chowhounds. Drawing on both his Vietnamese heritage and multicultural island flavors, the talented, playful Le is a wizard with spice and acid, turning out dishes of layered flavor. Known for: banh mi sandwiches at lunch and pho all day; house-made soft-serve custards and sorbets, including unexpected flavors; Hanoi-style egg coffee. DAverage main: $30 E83 N. King St., Chinatown P808/585–8255 wthepigandthelady.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

HSenia

$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Every item on the modern American menu at this small, sophisticated, James Beard Award–nominated restaurant is carefully concocted and artfully plated. You can order à la carte or indulge in the pricey tasting menu at the Chef’s Counter. Known for: ahi cigar rolls; sophisticated cocktails and an encyclopedic wine menu; creative presentation. DAverage main: $34 E75 N. King St., Chinatown jBetween The Pig and the Lady and Smith & Kings P808/200–5412 wrestaurantsenia.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Local Joe

$ | CAFÉ | This is a great spot to stop for coffee and a light bite, including some breakfast items, salads, and sandwiches, before or after your explorations in Chinatown, downtown, and historic Honolulu. The coffee shop roasts its own beans and has a latte art “printer” that leaves detailed designs on your drink. Known for: delicious coffee; nice presentations; convenient location for sightseers. DAverage main: $10 E45 N. King St., Suite 110, Chinatown P808/536–7700 wwww.localjoehi.com CClosed Sun. No dinner.

Mei Sum Dim Sum

$ | CHINESE | In contrast to the sprawling, noisy halls where dim sum is generally served, Mei Sum is compact, shiny, and bright—it’s also favored by locals who work in the area. Be ready to guess and point at the color photos of dim sum favorites or the items on the carts as they come by, or ask fellow diners for suggestions. Known for: deep-fried garlic eggplant; house special garlic rice; dim sum made fresh daily and served even in the morning. DAverage main: $15 E1170 Nuuanu Ave., Suite 102, Chinatown jNext to post office P808/531–3268 CClosed Wed.

n Nightlife

EP Bar

COCKTAIL BARS | Inspired by listening bars in Tokyo, this dimly lit, hip little spot serves some equally trendy cocktails. Sip a highball or house cocktail while a DJ spins vinyl nearby (no requests, please). Conversation is not banned, but a mellow mix of chatter and soaking up the sounds goes down best. Close to Hawaii Theatre, the bar is also a great place for a drink before or after a performance or show. Reservations are a good idea. E1150 Nuuanu Ave., Unit A, Chinatown P808/753–9720 wepbar.co.

J. Dolan’s

BARS | The drinks and rotating beers on tap at this Irish, Cheers-like bar are reasonably priced by Honolulu standards, and its menu of New York–style pizzas, both classic and inventive, is a crowd-pleaser, too. E1147 Bethel St., Chinatown P808/537–4992 wjdolans.com.

The Lei Stand

COCKTAIL BARS | Come here to feel Hawaii hip. Named after the iconic lei sellers in Chinatown, this bar is part speakeasy, with a sign out front and an entryway that allude to those lei shops. You can buy lei here, and the bright white inner courtyard has two lei walls to enhance that vibe. The rest of the space, though, is a purple-hued, neon-tropical lounge that slays. On the menu are upscale cocktails and small plates, and there’s plenty of great people-watching. E1115 Bethel St., Chinatown P808/773–7022 wgetleid.co.

The Manifest

COCKTAIL BARS | With exposed red brick, big skylights, and rotating exhibitions of work by local photographers and painters, The Manifest has the vibe of an artist’s loft. It’s a café by day and a cocktail bar and night club by night, so it serves a good cup of joe as well as quality cocktails. E32 N. Hotel St., Chinatown wwww.manifesthawaii.com.

The Tchin Tchin! Bar

BARS | This chill bar gets its name from the Chinese expression“qing, qing” (which means “please please”), often used as a toast; soldiers returning from the Chinese Opium Wars introduced it in France and throughout Europe. With an extensive wine menu—by the glass and the bottle—plus a selection of single malt bourbon, whiskey, and scotch, it’s an ideal spot for a drink or tapas-style food. The bar’s rooftop lanai, romantically lit with string lights and featuring a large living wall flourishing with ferns, is the best place to sit. E39 N. Hotel St., Chinatown P808/528–1888 wthetchintchinbar.com.

b Shopping

Roberta Oaks

CLOTHING | This boutique sells modern aloha wear for men, women, and children. Most of the prints and clothes are designed and made in Honolulu, and you’ll also find accessories, bath and body items, and other local products. E1152 Nuuanu Ave., Chinatown P808/526–1111 wrobertaoaks.com.

Kakaako

This 600-acre section of Honolulu between the Ala Moana Center and downtown is in the process of a redevelopment plan that began in 2012. It’s definitely a neighborhood in transition, with everything from ramshackle mechanic shops to the University of Hawaii’s medical school.

Its old warehouses and mom-and-pop storefronts are gradually being replaced by luxury condos, trendy restaurants, local boutiques, and big-box retailers like T. J. Maxx. New happenings, such as the Honolulu Night Market pop-up shopping event, are also taking root.

s Sights

Hawaii Walls – World Wide Walls

PUBLIC ART | You can grab a bite and take in the unique street art here at any time of the year. Formerly known as the POW! WOW! Worldwide art collective, this project was founded in Hawaii in 2010 and has spread to cities globally. Its most visible Oahu endeavor is a multiblock area where colorful, eclectic, and innovative murals are painted on once-derelict-looking warehouses and other buildings. Every year, artists from all over come to refresh existing murals and add new ones. In 2023, the projects moved out of Kakaako for the first time (to Kalihi-Palama in the first year). EKakaako jMurals are centered on Cooke, Auahi, and Pohukaina Sts. P808/223–7462 winstagram.com/worldwidewalls.

r Restaurants

Chef Chai

$$$$ | FUSION | This contemporary dining room in a condo building across from the Blaisdell Center is the go-to spot before and after plays or concerts. The creative starters and seafood and meat entrées on the eclectic, global-fusion menu are healthier than the norm as they don’t rely on butter or cream, with dishes like lobster bisque thickened instead with squash puree. Known for: early-bird and prix fixe menu options that will leave you stuffed; ahi tartare with avocado mousse in mini waffle cones; excellent desserts. DAverage main: $45 EPacifica Honolulu, 1009 Kapiolani Blvd., Ala Moana P808/585–0011 wchefchai.com CClosed Mon. and Tues. No lunch.

53 by the Sea

$$$$ | CONTEMPORARY | Housed in a McVilla aimed at attracting a Japanese wedding clientele, this restaurant serves contemporary Continental food that focuses primarily on beautifully plated, well-prepared standards—albeit with a million-dollar view of Honolulu. Perched at the water’s edge, with famed surf break Point Panic offshore, 53 by the Sea uses its setting to great advantage—the crescent-shape dining room faces the sea, so even if you’re not at a table nestled against the floor-to-ceiling windows, you have a fine view. Known for: odd villa decor that somehow works; free valet parking, and reservations are essential; on-site wedding chapel in case the mood strikes. DAverage main: $75 E53 Ahui St., Kakaako P808/536–5353 w53bythesea.com CClosed Mon.

Highway Inn Kakaako

$$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | This place focuses on what it does best: local favorites like kalbi ribs (Korean barbecue beef short ribs), kalua (roasted in an underground oven) pork sliders, beef stew, and old-fashioned hamburger steaks. It’s also a great spot to try poi (the pudding-like dish made of pounded taro). Known for: signature combo plates; relatively close to the cruise terminal; no reservations except for groups of six or more, so there may be a wait. DAverage main: $20 E680 Ala Moana Blvd., Kakaako jIn SALT complex P808/954–4955 wwww.myhighwayinn.com.

Merriman’s Honolulu

$$$$ | BISTRO | At this restaurant where fine dining comes without the fussiness, the cordial, well-trained servers present your “Bag O’ Biscuits” or smoking oysters on the half shelf with equal aplomb and know all the details of each menu item. The large Hawaiian-French bistro has floor-to-ceiling windows and native wood accents throughout, and chef-owner Peter Merriman focuses on farm-to-table food, using Oahu-sourced ingredients as much as possible. Known for: lobster potpie; tableside poke; Waialua chocolate purse (a take on molten lava cake). DAverage main: $45 E1108 Auahi St., Suite 170, Kakaako P808/215–0022 wmerrimanshawaii.com.

Moku Kitchen

$$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | In the hip SALT complex, Moku appeals to both foodies and families with authentic farm-to-table cuisine and a laid-back, urban setting. It’s one of legendary chef Peter Merriman’s restaurants (he’s one of the founding chefs of Hawaii regional cuisine) and focuses on upcountry farm fare cooked in the on-site rotisserie; pizzas, salads, and sandwiches; and craft cocktails. Known for: lively happy hour; impressive list of craft cocktails, wine, and beer, including the signature monkeypod mai tai; live music every evening. DAverage main: $25 ESALT at Our Kakaako, 660 Ala Moana Blvd., Kakaako P808/591–6658 wwww.mokukitchen.com.

Panya

$$ | ECLECTIC | Run by Hong Kong–born sisters Alice and Annie Yeung, this easy-breezy café is known for its pastries, desserts, and happy hours but also offers crowd-pleasing contemporary fare, both American (salads, sandwiches, pastas) and Asian (Thai-style steak salad, Japanese-style fried chicken, Singaporean seafood laksa). Dine inside for the air-conditioning and disco vibe, or choose a spot on the covered lanai. Known for: French-style pastries and cakes; eclectic and extensive menu; Japanese cheesecake. DAverage main: $25 E1288 Ala Moana Blvd., Kakaako P808/946–6388 wwww.panyabistro.com CClosed Mon.

Scratch Kitchen

$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Tucked into the chic South Shore Market in Kakaako’s Ward Village, Scratch Kitchen has wood-and-metal industrial-look decor, an open kitchen, and creative comfort food. It’s popular for breakfast and brunch and has both small plates and generous entrées on its dinner menu. Known for: milk ‘n’ cereal pancakes; spicy (and good) chicken and waffles; large portions. DAverage main: $25 ESouth Shore Market at Ward Village, 1170 Auahi St., Kakaako jEnter on side of building, along Queen St. P808/589–1669.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Hank’s Haute Dogs

$ | HOT DOG | FAMILY | Owner Hank Adaniya’s idea of a hot dog involves things like a duck and foie gras sausage with truffle mustard and stone fruit compote. Originally a true hole-in-the-wall, the gentrified Hank’s in the SALT area is still a tiny spot where you can go classic with the Chicago Dog, made with the traditional fixings (including neon-green relish), or gourmet with the butter-seared lobster sausage topped with garlic-relish aioli. Known for: 12 varieties of dogs daily, plus a daily special; fries, truffle fries, and onion rings to die for; closes by 6 or 7 pm Fri.–Sun. DAverage main: $12 E324 Coral St., Kakaako P808/532–4265 wwww.hankshautedogs.com CNo dinner Mon.–Thurs. xRemember to get parking validated.

n Nightlife

Aloha Beer

BREWPUBS | Grab a seat in either the industrial indoor taproom or the outdoor beer garden where dogs are welcome (and have their own menu). With more than a dozen beers on draft—including the Hop Lei IPA, Froot Loops, and Aloha Blonde—as well as wine, cocktails, and mocktails, you’re likely to find something to your taste. For food, there’s pizza and other standard pub fare plus a brunch menu. Get cocktails and more upscale offerings in the upstairs HI Brau Room, which has its own speakeasy-style entrance. A newer Aloha Beer location is in Waikiki. E700 Queen St., Kakaako P808/544–1605 walohabeer.com.

HHana Koa Brewing Co.

BREWPUBS | One of the newer breweries to debut on Oahu, the modern, two-story brewhouse has its manufacturing area, a gift shop, a bar and more casual dining area downstairs, and an upscale mezzanine with exclusive cocktails. With 20 of its beers on tap (half of them IPAs), plus guest collaborations, cocktails, and mocktails, there’s something for everyone. The food menu is just as extensive, including at Sunday brunch. E962 Kawaiahao St., Kakaako P808/591–2337 whanakoabrewing.com.

Waikiki Brewing Company

BREWPUBS | This company not only brews its own quality craft beer but also serves delicious food. This is its second location—the original is in Waikiki at 1945 Kalakaua Avenue—and it always offers nine beers on tap, including the Skinny Jeans IPA and the Hana Hou Hefe, to which orange peel and strawberry puree are added before fermentation. You can also buy six-packs at the bar to go. Barbecue sauces accompanying some of the smoked meat selections are made with Waikiki Brewing beer. Stop by for brunch on the weekends. E831 Queen St., Kakaako P808/591–0387 wwaikikibrewing.com.

b Shopping

Anne Namba Designs

CLOTHING | This designer combines the beauty of classic kimonos with contemporary styles to make unique pieces for work and evening. In addition to women’s apparel, Anne Namba designs a men’s line. E324 Kamani St., Kakaako P808/589–1135.

Ala Moana

Ala Moana abuts Waikiki to the east (stopping at the Ala Wai Canal) and King Street to the north. Kakaako, Kewalo Basin Harbor, and the Blaisdell Center complex roughly mark its western edge. Probably its most notable attraction is the sprawling Ala Moana Center, jam-packed with almost any store you could wish for.

; Beaches

Honolulu proper has only one beach: Ala Moana. Popular with locals, it hosts everything from Dragon Boat competitions to the Lantern Floating Ceremony.

HAla Moana Regional Park (Ala Moana Beach Park)

BEACH | FAMILY | A protective reef makes Ala Moana essentially a ½-mile-wide saltwater swimming pool. Very smooth sand and no waves create a haven for families and stand-up paddleboarders. After Waikiki, this is the most popular beach among visitors, and the free parking area can fill up quickly on sunny weekends. On the Waikiki side is a peninsula called Magic Island, with shady trees and paved sidewalks ideal for jogging. Ala Moana Regional Park also has playing fields, tennis courts, and a couple of small ponds for sailing toy boats. The beach is for everyone, but only in the daytime; after dark, it’s a high-crime area, with many unhoused people. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (free); showers; toilets. Best for: swimming; walking. E1201 Ala Moana Blvd., Ala Moana wwww.honolulu.gov/parks.

r Restaurants

Akasaka

$$ | JAPANESE | Step inside this tiny sushi bar, tucked amid the strip clubs behind the Ala Moana Hotel, and you’ll swear you’re in an out-of-the-way Tokyo neighborhood. Don’t be deterred by its dodgy neighbors or its reputation for inconsistent service—this is where locals come when they want the real deal, and you’ll be greeted with a cheerful “Irasshaimase!” (Welcome!) before sitting at a diminutive table or perching at the small sushi bar. Known for: popular local spot for late-night food; spicy tuna roll; no pretense, nothing fancy. DAverage main: $25 E1646 Kona St., Suite B, Ala Moana P808/942–4466 wakasakahawaii.com CNo lunch Sun.

Bac Nam

$ | VIETNAMESE | Tam and Kimmy Huynh’s menu ranges far beyond the usual pho and bun (cold noodle dishes) found at many Vietnamese restaurants. This welcoming, no-frills, hole-in-the-wall spot, which locals swear by, features crab curry, tapioca dumplings, head-on tamarind shrimp, and other dishes that hail from both northern and southern Vietnam. Known for: spring and summer rolls; limited free parking behind the restaurant; excellent crabmeat curry soup. DAverage main: $17 E1117 S. King St., Ala Moana P808/597–8201 CClosed Sun.

Mariposa

$$$ | HAWAIIAN | Yes, the popovers and the wee cups of bouillon are available at lunch, but in every other regard, the menu at this Neiman Marcus restaurant departs from the classic model, incorporating a clear sense of Pacific place. The breezy, open-air veranda, with a view of Ala Moana Regional Park, the twirling ceiling fans, and the life-size hula-girl murals say “Hawaii.” It’s still a spot for ladies who lunch, but it also welcomes a more casual crowd. Known for: extensive cocktail menu, but note that it closes by 6 or 7 pm; corn chowder; reservations are essential. DAverage main: $35 ENeiman Marcus, Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Ala Moana P808/951–3420 wneimanmarcushawaii.com.

HMW Restaurant

$$$$ | HAWAIIAN | The “M” and “W” team of husband-and-wife chefs Michelle Karr-Ueko and Wade Ueko combine their collective experience (20 years alongside chef Alan Wong, a side step to the famed French Laundry, and some serious kitchen time at comfort food icon Zippy’s) to create a uniquely local menu with a decidedly upscale twist. Michelle’s flair for sweets has resulted in a dessert menu as long as the main one, including tropical fruit creamsicle brûlée, an MW candy bar, and the frozen lilikoi (Hawaiian passion fruit) soufflé. Known for: excellent fish dishes; nice craft cocktails; reservations are essential. DAverage main: $45 E888 Kapiolani Blvd., Suite 201, Ala Moana P808/955–6505 wwww.mwrestaurant.com.

Sorabol Korean Restaurant

$$ | KOREAN | Sorabol offers a vast menu encompassing the entirety of day-to-day Korean cuisine, plus sushi, in a light-filled dining room surrounded by windows. The restaurant, now in the Pagoda Hotel, is known for classic dishes including bibimbap (veggies, meats, and eggs on steamed rice), kalbi and bulgogi (barbecued meats), meat or fish jun (thin fillets battered with egg and then fried), and kimchi pancakes. Known for: late-night dining; simple but good Korean food; seafood pancake. DAverage main: $25 EPagoda Hotel, 1525 Rycroft St., Ala Moana P808/947–3113 winstagram.com/sorabolhawaii.

h Hotels

Ala Moana Hotel by Mantra

$$ | HOTEL | A decent value in a pricey hotel market, location is the hallmark of this property, which is connected to Oahu’s largest mall, the Ala Moana Center, by a pedestrian ramp and is just a 10-minute walk from Waikiki, a two-minute stroll from Ala Moana Regional Park, and a block from the convention center. Pros: great value (and no resort fee); refreshed look; very convenient location. Cons: outside the heartbeat of Waikiki; Kona tower rooms are not fully refurbished and look tired; expensive parking. DRooms from: $269 E410 Atkinson Dr., Ala Moana P808/955–4811, 800/367–6025 toll-free wwww.alamoanahotelhonolulu.com a1,100 rooms XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

Eleven

COCKTAIL BARS | Toward the back of Foodland Farms (located off Piikoi Street on the Ala Moana Center’s first level), this small cocktail bar has an extensive menu of whiskey and other spirits. Both the drinks and the small plates use locally sourced ingredients. As a bonus, once you’ve enjoyed a drink and a snack, you can pick up some groceries in the main store on your way out. EFoodland Farms Ala Moana, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Ala Moana P808/949–2990 welevenhnl.com.

Mai Tai’s

BARS | After a long day of shopping at the Ala Moana Center, the casual, fourth-floor Mai Tai’s is a great spot to relax. What you will find is live entertainment and happy hour specials for both food and drink. What you won’t find is a cover charge or a dress code. To avoid waiting in line, arrive before 9 pm. EAla Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Ala Moana winstagram.com/maitaisalamoana.

b Shopping

BOOKS

HNa Mea Hawaii

BOOKS | In addition to island-style clothing for adults and children, Hawaiian cultural items, and unusual artwork, such as Niihau-shell necklaces, this boutique’s book selection covers Hawaiian history and language and includes children’s books set in the Islands. Na Mea also has classes on Hawaiian language, culture, and history. A sister store, Native Books, is in Chinatown. EWard Village, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd., Suite 270, Ala Moana P808/596–8885 wwww.nameahawaii.com.

CLOTHING

Reyn Spooner

CLOTHING | This is a good place to buy the aloha-print fashions residents wear. Look for the limited-edition Christmas shirt, a collector’s item manufactured each holiday season. Reyn Spooner has seven locations statewide and offers styles for men and children and, sometimes, limited-edition women’s wear. EAla Moana Shopping Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Shop 2247, Ala Moana P808/949–5929 wreynspooner.com.

FOOD

Longs Drugs

FOOD | Try Longs at the Ala Moana Center (or one of its many other outposts) to stock up on chocolate-covered macadamia nuts, candies, cookies, Islands tea, and 100% Kona coffee—at reasonable prices—to carry home. EAla Moana Shopping Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., 2nd level, Ala Moana P808/941–4010 wlongs.staradvertiser.com.

GIFTS

Blue Hawaii Lifestyle

LOCAL GOODS | The Ala Moana store carries a large selection of locally made products, including soaps, honey, tea, salt, chocolates, art, and CDs. Every item is carefully selected from various Hawaiian companies, artisans, and farms—from the salt fields of Molokai to the lavender farms of Maui to the single-estate chocolate of Oahu’s North Shore. An in-store café serves healthy smoothies, panini, tea, and espresso. EAla Moana Shopping Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Shop 2312, Ala Moana P808/949–0808 wwww.bluehawaiilifestyle.com.

JEWELRY

Na Hoku Ala Moana

JEWELRY & WATCHES | If you look at the wrists of kamaaina (local) women, you might see Hawaiian heirloom bracelets fashioned in either gold or silver and engraved in a number of Islands-inspired designs. Na Hoku sells these and other traditional Hawaiian jewelry along with an array of modern Hawaii-influenced designs that capture the heart of the Hawaiian lifestyle in all its elegant diversity. There are a number of Na Hoku locations on Oahu, as well as on the other Islands and the Mainland. EAla Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Shop 2006, Ala Moana P808/946–2100 wwww.nahoku.com.

SHOPPING CENTERS

Ala Moana Shopping Center

MALL | FAMILY | The world’s largest open-air shopping mall is a five-minute bus ride from Waikiki. More than 350 stores and 160 dining options (including multiple food courts) make up this 50-acre complex, which is a unique mix of national and international chains as well as smaller, locally owned shops and eateries—and everything in between. The newer Lanai @ Ala Moana Center is worth stopping at for a range of casual dining options in one spot. More than 30 luxury boutiques are in residence, with stores such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Christian Dior. All of Hawaii’s major department stores are here, including the state’s only Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, plus Macy’s, Target, and Bloomingdale’s. E1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Ala Moana P808/955–9517 wwww.alamoanacenter.com.

Ward Village

SHOPPING CENTER | FAMILY | Heading west from Waikiki toward downtown Honolulu, you’ll run into a section of town with distinct shopping-complex areas; there are more than 100 specialty shops and around 40 eateries here. The Ward Entertainment Center features 16 movie screens, including a state-of-the-art, 3D, big-screen auditorium, and all theaters have reclining chairs and access to an extended food menu and alcoholic beverages for those of age. The South Shore Market is a contemporary collection of local shops and restaurants, plus T. J. Maxx and Nordstrom Rack. For distinctive Hawaiian gifts, such as locally made muumuus, koa-wood products, and Niihau shell necklaces, visit Martin & MacArthur and Na Mea Hawaii. There’s also free parking around the entire Ward Village, though sometimes you have to circle for a while to find a spot. Valet parking is also available. E1050–1200 Ala Moana Blvd., Ala Moana P808/591–8411 wwww.wardvillage.com/shopping.

Makiki Heights

Makiki is home to the more unassuming neighborhood where former president Barack Obama grew up. Highlights include the exclusive Punahou School he attended and the notable Central Union Church, as well as the Tantalus area overlook.

s Sights

Tantalus and Round Top Drive

SCENIC DRIVE | FAMILY | A few minutes and a world away from Waikiki and Honolulu, this scenic drive shaded by vine-draped trees has frequent pullouts with views of Diamond Head and the ewa (western) side of Honolulu. It’s a nice change of pace from urban life below. At Puu Ualakaa State Wayside (Tantalus), stop to see the sweeping view from Manoa Valley to Honolulu. To start the drive, go to the Punchbowl cemetery (National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific), and follow Tantalus Drive uphill. You’ll spot wild chickens, darting mongoose (the squirrels of Hawaii), and maybe the occasional wild boar along the road as you drive. E3200 Round Top Dr., Makiki Heights wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/oahu/puu-ualakaa-state-wayside.

r Restaurants

Honolulu Burger Company

$ | BURGER | FAMILY | Owner Ken Takahashi retired as a nightclub impresario on the Big Island to become a real-life burger king. This modest spot is the home of the locavore burger, made with range-fed beef, Manoa lettuce, tomatoes, and a wide range of toppings, all island-grown—and you can taste the difference. Known for: Miso Kutie Burger topped with red miso glaze and Japanese cucumber slices; Blue Hawaii Burger with blue cheese and bacon; a presence at local farmers’ markets or elsewhere in its own food truck. DAverage main: $15 E1295 S. Beretania St., Makiki Heights P808/626–5202 whonoluluburgerco.com CNo dinner Sun. and Mon.

Kalihi-Liliha-Kapalama

North of downtown Honolulu, just off H1, is the tightly packed neighborhood of Kalihi. It’s home to large industrial pockets but also the stellar Bishop Museum and great local eateries, like Mitsu-Ken. Local breweries have been spreading island-wide, and Kalihi Beer is one of the newest.

Liliha-Kapalama (that latter is sometimes referred to as just “Palama”) is the sliver of land that runs from ocean to mountain (known as an ahupuaa in Hawaiian). It’s presided over by famed Kamehameha Schools, which from its hillside perch looks down on a warren of modest homes and shops.

s Sights

HBishop Museum

CULTURAL MUSEUM | FAMILY | The state’s designated history and culture museum, founded in 1889 by Charles R. Bishop as a memorial to his wife, Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop, began as a repository for the royal possessions of this last direct descendant of King Kamehameha the Great. Today, its five excellent exhibit halls contain almost 25 million items that tell the history of the Hawaiian Islands and their Pacific neighbors.

Gain understanding of the entire region in the Pacific Hall, and learn about the culture of the Islands through state-of-the-art and often-interactive displays in the Hawaiian Hall. Spectacular artifacts—lustrous feather capes, bone fishhooks, the skeleton of a giant sperm whale, photography and crafts displays, and a well-preserved grass house—are displayed inside a three-story, 19th-century, Victorian-style gallery. The building alone, with its huge turrets and immense stone walls, is worth seeing.

In the 16,500-square-foot science adventure wing, it’s hard to miss the three-story simulated volcano where kids (young and young at heart) can make lava burble. A walk through the glowing black light tunnel is another fun feature. Also check out the planetarium, Hawaiian cultural and science demonstrations, special exhibits, and the Shop Pacifica. E1525 Bernice St., Kapalama P808/847–3511 wwww.bishopmuseum.org A$29, planetarium shows $3; parking $5.

r Restaurants

Mitsu-Ken

$ | HAWAIIAN | The garlic chicken may haunt your dreams, so it’s worth the trek to a downscale neighborhood to find this unprepossessing takeout joint. Line up, order the plate lunch with rice and salad, and sink your teeth into the profoundly garlicky masterpiece drizzled with a sweet glaze. Known for: delicious breakfast bentos; a local favorite with loyal fans; orders can be called in ahead of time. DAverage main: $12 E2300 N. King St., Kapalama P808/848–5573 winstagram.com/mitsukenokazu CClosed Sun.–Tues. No dinner.

Nuuanu

Immediately mauka (toward the mountains) of Kalihi, off the Pali Highway, are a renowned resting place and a carefully preserved home where royal families retreated during the doldrums of summer. In 1795, Nuuanu Pali was the sight of a famous battle that was key to King Kamehameha I’s success in uniting all the Hawaiian Islands under his rule and becoming the Islands’ first monarch. Nuuanu Valley is known for its lush, quiet beauty and has several notable cemeteries, churches, and embassies.

s Sights

National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific

CEMETERY | Nestled in the bowl of Puowaina, or Punchbowl Crater, this 112-acre cemetery is the final resting place for more than 50,000 U.S. war veterans and family members and is a solemn reminder of their sacrifice. Among those buried here is Ernie Pyle, the famed World War II correspondent who was killed by a Japanese sniper on Ie Shima, an island off the northwest coast of Okinawa. Intricate stone maps provide a visual military-history lesson. Puowaina, formed 75,000–100,000 years ago during a period of secondary volcanic activity, translates as “Hill of Sacrifice.” Historians believe this site once served as an altar where ancient Hawaiians offered sacrifices to their gods. lThe entrance to the cemetery has wide-open views of Waikiki and Honolulu—perhaps the finest on Oahu. E2177 Puowaina Dr., Nuuanu P808/532–3720 wwww.cem.va.gov/cems/nchp/nmcp.asp AFree.

Queen Emma Summer Palace

HISTORIC HOME | Queen Emma, King Kamehameha IV’s wife, used this small but stately New England–style home in Nuuanu Valley as a retreat from the rigors of court life in hot and dusty Honolulu during the mid- to late 1800s. Self-guided and docent-led tours highlight the residence’s royal history and its eclectic mix of European, Victorian, and Hawaiian furnishings, most of which are original to the home. There are excellent examples of feather-covered kahilis (a standard), umeke (bowls), and koa-wood furniture. Visitors also learn how Queen Emma established what is today the largest private hospital in Hawaii, opened a school for girls, and ran as a widow for the throne, losing to King Kalakaua. lCheck online for special events like hula, quilting, and ukulele classes and a Hoonanea event including a tour, making a floral hairpiece, and picnic lunch. A short drive away, you can visit the Royal Mausoleum State Monument, where Queen Emma, her husband, and their son, Albert, who died at age four, are buried beside many other Hawaiian royals. E2913 Pali Hwy., Nuuanu P808/595–3167 wwww.daughtersofhawaii.org A$14, $20 docent-guided tour Sat. or by appointment and availability CClosed Sun., Mon., and Wed.

Moiliili

Packed into the neighborhood of Moiliili, about 3 miles from Waikiki, are flower and lei shops, restaurants, and little stores selling Hawaiian and Asian goodies. Most places of interest are along King Street, between Isenberg Street and Waialae Avenue.

r Restaurants

Chiang Mai Thai Cuisine

$$ | THAI | Long beloved for its northern Thai classics, such as spicy curries and stir-fries and sticky rice in woven-grass baskets, made using family recipes, Chiang Mai is a short cab ride from Waikiki. Some dishes, like the signature barbecue Cornish game hen with lemongrass and spices, show how acculturation can create interesting pairings. Known for: spring rolls and Chiang Mai wings; limited parking in a small lot in back; local business-lunch favorite. DAverage main: $25 E2239 S. King St., Moiliili P808/941–1151 wwww.chiangmairestaurant.com CNo lunch weekends.

Imanas Tei

$$ | JAPANESE | Nihonjin (Japanese nationals) and locals flock to this tucked-away, bamboo-ceilinged restaurant for its tasteful, simple decor and equally tasteful—and perfect—sushi, sashimi, nabe (hot pots prepared at the table), and grilled dishes. You assemble your meal dish by dish, and the cost can add up if you aren’t careful. Known for: simple food that some feel is better than in Japan; long waits (reservations are limited); traditional izakaya (casual, pub-like) dining experience. DAverage main: $30 E2626 S. King St., Moiliili P808/941–2626 wimanastei.com CClosed Sun. No lunch.

Sasabune Hawaii

$$$$ | JAPANESE | Try to get a coveted seat at the counter, and prepare for an unforgettable sushi experience—if you behave, as chef Seiji Kumagawa prefers that diners eat omakase-style, letting him send out his favorite courses (generally two pieces of sushi or six to eight slices of sashimi), each priced individually and each served with instructions (“please, no shoyu on this one” or “one piece, one bite”). People who’ve defied Kumagawa have been kicked out of the restaurant midmeal. Known for: one of Honolulu’s top sushi spots, so reservations are essential; fast service; lunch is takeout only. DAverage main: $160 E1417 S. King St., Moiliili P808/947–3800 wsasabuneh.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Fukuya Delicatessen

$ | JAPANESE | Get a taste of local Japanese culture at this family operation on the main thoroughfare in Moiliili, a mile or so mauka (toward the mountains) out of Waikiki. Open since 1939, the delicatessen offers take-out breakfasts and lunches, Japanese snacks, noodle dishes, and confections—and it’s a local favorite for catering, from parties to funeral gatherings. Known for: nori-wrapped chicken; mochi tray, offering samples of everything; kid-friendly menu. DAverage main: $12 E2710 S. King St., Moiliili P808/946–2073 wfukuyadeli.com CClosed Mon. and Tues. No dinner.

b Shopping

Maui Divers Design Center

JEWELRY & WATCHES | For a look into the harvesting and design of coral and black pearl jewelry, visit this shop and take a free tour at its adjacent factory near the Ala Moana Shopping Center. Note that it’s closed on weekends. lAvoid the “Pick a Pearl” option at their other kiosk locations unless you’re prepared to be upsold on a jewelry setting or two for the pearls “found” in your shells. E1520 Liona St., Moiliili P808/946–2929 wwww.mauidivers.com.

Kapahulu

Walk just a few minutes from the eastern end of Waikiki, and you’ll find yourself in this very local main drag of restaurants, bars, and shops, where Bailey’s Antiques & Aloha Shirts is the place for rare, wearable collectibles, and Leonard’s Bakery is the place for malasadas (Portuguese deep-fried doughnuts rolled in sugar).

r Restaurants

Threadfin Bistro

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | This new prix fixe dining experience that incorporates local ingredients in a modern way is the creation of Jason Kiyota, who used to head up the fine-dining side of The Food Company in Kailua. The small restaurant, with its mid-century modern–inspired dining room, is tucked behind a discreet black door in the unassuming Kilohana Square strip mall. Known for: rotating menu of carefully sourced dishes; Kona abalone in a cognac butter sauce; ample parking. DAverage main: $70 EKilohana Square, 1014 Kapahulu Ave., Suite 140, Kapahulu P808/692–2562 wthreadfinbistro.com CClosed Sun.–Wed. No lunch.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Leonard’s Bakery

$ | BAKERY | Whether you spell it malasada or malassada, when you’re in Hawaii, you must try these deep-fried, holeless Portuguese doughnuts. Leonard’s Bakery is the most famous of all the island establishments making them and was the first island bakery to commercialize their production. Known for: original and various filled malasadas; pão doce (Portuguese sweet bread); small parking lot and long lines. DAverage main: $2 E933 Kaphalulu Ave., Kapahulu P808/737–5591 wleonardshawaii.com.

Waiola Shave Ice

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | Longtime local favorite Waiola Shave Ice, known for its super-soft and powdery shave ice (or snow cone) and wide variety of flavors, became nationally known through regular appearances on the reboot of the Hawaii Five-0 TV show. It’s a fast-moving line, so know your order when you get to the window. Known for: a large menu allowing for lots of customization; excellent example of a Hawaii classic; slightly brusque service. DAverage main: $4 E3113 Mokihana St., Kapahulu P808/949–2269 wfacebook.com/WaiolaShaveIce.

b Shopping

Bailey’s Antiques & Aloha Shirts

ANTIQUES & COLLECTIBLES | Vintage aloha shirts are the specialty at this kitschy store. Don’t expect to find bargains, but rather unique designs you aren’t likely to find elsewhere. Some shirts cost several hundred dollars. Thousands of them are used; others are creations by top designers. The tight space and musty smell are part of the thrift-shop atmosphere. lAntiques hunters can also buy old-fashioned postcards, glassware, Hawaiian LPs, authentic military clothing, funky hats, and denim jeans from the 1950s. E517 Kapahulu Ave., Kapahulu P808/734–7628 wwww.alohashirts.com.

Kaimuki

Ten minutes beyond Kapahulu, this commercial thoroughfare runs through a neighborhood that, despite ongoing development, still has a good number of cool old Craftsman bungalows. Kaimuki has also become a food mecca, rivaled only by Chinatown, with perhaps Oahu’s most diverse concentration of eateries. If you want to discover the island’s culinary trends, this is the place to do it.

r Restaurants

HKoko Head Cafe

$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | When Lee Anne Wong, best known as a competitor on the first season of Bravo’s Top Chef, moved to the Islands, foodies waited with bated breath for this, her first restaurant. It’s a lively yet laid-back café, where she took the concept of breakfast and flipped it, creating innovative dishes like Breakfast Bruschetta with vanilla cake rusks, local honey, and yogurt; also on offer are her signature dumplings, which change daily, and many other specials. Known for: cornflake french toast; creative cocktail menu; crazy busy weekends, but there is an online wait list. DAverage main: $22 E1120 12th Ave., Kaimuki P808/732–8920 wkokoheadcafe.com CNo dinner.

Mud Hen Water

$$ | HAWAIIAN | The name of this casual, homey restaurant is the English translation of waialae (meaning a gathering spot around a watering hole). Renowned chef Ed Kenney explores modern interpretations of the Hawaiian foods he remembers from his childhood with an ever-changing locavore menu. Known for: menu of creative small plates and snacks; beet poke; sorbetto and gelato. DAverage main: $21 E3452 Waialae Ave., Kaimuki P808/737–6000 wwww.mudhenwater.com CClosed Mon. No lunch Mon.–Sat.

The Surfing Pig Hawaii

$$$ | BARBECUE | The upscale sibling of the island’s four Kono’s barbecue spots focuses on Americana-tinged-with-Hawaiian food and drink served in a small, lofted space with a surfer-industrial vibe. Heaping portions of juicy smoked and grilled meats are the specialty, but the menu also has several great fish appetizers and entrées. Known for: smoked cocktails; pork, beef, and porchetta slider trio; a strong neighborhood brunch option. DAverage main: $40 E3605 Waialae Ave., Kaimuki P808/744–1992 wthesurfingpighawaii.com.

Manoa

Manoa is probably best known as the home of the University of Hawaii’s main campus. The surrounding area is chock-full of interesting coffee shops, restaurants, and stores supported by the collegiate and professorial crowd. History and beauty linger around verdant Manoa Valley at places like the Manoa Chinese Cemetery, Manoa Falls (Fsee Hiking in Activities and Tours), and Lyon Arboretum. Manoa Valley Theatre puts on top-notch community productions year-round.

s Sights

Lyon Arboretum

GARDEN | Tucked all the way back in Manoa Valley, this is a gem of an arboretum operated by the University of Hawaii. Reservations are required to visit its almost 200 acres, where you can hike to a waterfall or sit and enjoy beautiful views of the valley while having a picnic. You’ll also see an ethnobotanical garden, a Hawaiian hale (house) and garden, and one of the largest palm collections anywhere—all within a parklike setting. The arboretum’s educational mission means there are often regular talks and walks, plus classes on lei-making, lauhala weaving, Hawaiian medicinal arts, and more, which you can take for an additional fee. E3860 Manoa Rd., Manoa P808/988–0456 wmanoa.hawaii.edu/lyon ASuggested donation $10 CClosed weekends.

r Restaurants

HWaioli Kitchen & Bake Shop

$ | AMERICAN | Dating from 1922, this historic café surrounded by the verdant Manoa Valley landscape is part of the Hawaii Salvation Army headquarters and has been independently operated by Ross and Stefanie Anderson since late 2018. A short menu of simple, delicious breakfast and lunch items are ordered at the counter and delivered to your chosen table, either inside the cozy, multiroom bungalow or on the covered lanai. Known for: braised short rib loco moco; assorted house-made pastries, scones, muffins, breads, jams, and jellies; peaceful garden setting. DAverage main: $13 ESalvation Army Headquarters, 2950 Manoa Rd., Manoa P808/744–1619 wwaiolikitchen.com CClosed Mon. and Tues. No dinner.

Kahala

Oahu’s wealthiest neighborhood has streets lined with multimillion-dollar homes. Lanes at intervals along tree-lined Kahala Avenue provide public access to Kahala’s quiet, narrow coastal beaches offering views of Koko Head. Kahala Mall includes restaurants, a movie theater, and a Whole Foods grocery store. Kahala is also the home of the private Waialae Country Club, where the golf course hosts the Sony Open PGA tournament in January.

r Restaurants

Hoku’s

$$$$ | ASIAN FUSION | Everything about Hoku’s speaks of quality and sophistication: the wall of windows with their beach views, the avant-garde cutlery and dinnerware, the solicitous staff, and the carefully constructed Euro-Pacific cuisine. Diners choose from several tasting menus, which change frequently and focus on seasonal cuisine made with fresh, local ingredients (including herbs from the hotel’s on-site herb garden). Known for: relaxed elegance in the grande dame of Hawaii’s social scene; reservations are essential, as is appropriate dress; setting and service that can outshine the food. DAverage main: $124 EThe Kahala Hotel & Resort, 5000 Kahala Ave., Kahala P808/739–8760 wwww.hokuskahala.com CNo lunch Mon.–Sat.

HKapa Hale

$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Putting a playful and inventive spin on Hawaii regional cuisine, Kapa Hale offers upscale food and cocktails by an outstanding Honolulu-born chef in a mid-century modern dining room. Menu items are changed seasonally and sourced locally, with fun, wordplay names for different dishes, and there’s a focus on using local vegetables creatively in all dishes, as in an edible lei poo (a head lei). Known for: clever drink menu; chef’s personal attention to detail; Naan Ya Business appetizer with grilled naan and tikka masala curry. DAverage main: $40 E4614 Kilauea Ave., Suite 102, Kahala P808/888–2060 wwww.kapahale.com CNo lunch Mon. and Tues.

h Hotels

HThe Kahala Hotel & Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Hidden away in the upscale residential neighborhood of Kahala (on the other side of Diamond Head from Waikiki), this elegant oceanfront hotel with top-notch service, opened in 1964 and one of Hawaii’s first luxury resorts, has hosted celebrities, princesses, the Dalai Lama, and nearly every president since Lyndon Johnson. Pros: away from hectic Waikiki; top-notch Hoku’s restaurant; heavenly spa on-site. Cons: far from Waikiki; in a residential neighborhood, so not much to do within walking distance of hotel; small pool. DRooms from: $563 E5000 Kahala Ave., Kahala P808/369–9471, 800/367–2525 toll-free wwww.kahalaresort.com a338 rooms XNo Meals.

b Shopping

Kahala Mall

MALL | FAMILY | This indoor mall has more than 100 stores and restaurants, with a mix of national retailers and not-to-be-missed, homegrown boutiques, clothing stores, and galleries. You can also browse local foods and products at Whole Foods. For post-shopping entertainment, see what movies are playing at the Consolidated Kahala Theatres, where you’ll also find a full kitchen and bar. E4211 Waialae Ave., Kahala P808/732–7736 wwww.kahalamallcenter.com.

West (Leeward) and Central Oahu

The rugged Waianae Range of mountains bisects the leeward side of the island from the central plateau. The queen of the range, Mount Kaala, is the highest peak on Oahu (4,003 feet) and dominates the landscape on all sides when clouds fail to obscure its majesty.

The mountains shield the western slopes from trade winds and heavy rain that falls to the north and east. The western side thus appears drier, and its beaches are known for their pristine white sands and crystal clear waters that are excellent for snorkeling and diving. This geography (combined with flows from the western slopes of the parallel eastern Koolau Range) also results in abundant water flows to the fertile central valley plains—where much of Oahu’s delectable bounty originates.

The region’s eastern portion edges Pearl Harbor and includes the Aloha Stadium, Hawaii’s Plantation Village, the Wet ‘n’ Wild Hawaii water park, and Waikele Premium Outlets near Waipio. Kapolei, Oahu’s burgeoning “second city,” lies due west of Pearl Harbor. It is a planned community, where, for years, the government has been trying to attract enough jobs to lighten inbound traffic to downtown Honolulu. A major mall and community center, Ka Makana Alii, opened here in 2017 to serve an expected influx of shoppers in the ensuing decades. Ko Olina—a lively, privately owned community centered on a golf course, several major resorts, and four man-made lagoons—occupies the island’s southwestern tip.

Some locals avoid Leeward and Central Oahu because of traffic that tends to bottleneck at the intersection of the H1, H2, and H3 freeways. But those who time their travels to avoid the traffic find great rewards throughout the region, especially the chance to explore the gorgeous and remote west coast beaches, including the far-flung Hawaiian communities of Nanakuli and Waianae and the end of the road at Keawaula, aka Yokohama Bay. A visit to Ko Hana Distillers and a walk through the Dole Plantation’s 3-acre maze (the world’s largest) near Wahiawa are well worth including in any Central Oahu excursion itinerary.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

It’s relatively easy to get to West Oahu, which begins at folksy Waipahu and continues past Makakilo and Kapolei on H1 and Highway 93, Farrington Highway. It takes about a half hour to reach Ko Olina from Waikiki, but rush hour traffic can create delays.

A couple of cautions as you head to the leeward side: Highway 93 is a narrow, winding, two-lane road, notorious for accidents. There’s an abrupt transition from an expansive freeway to a two-lane highway at Kapolei, and by the time you reach Nanakuli, it’s a country road, so slow down. Also be aware of congestion between Ko Olina and Waianae during commuter hours.

Kapolei

22 miles west of downtown Honolulu.

The planned community of Kapolei, where, for years, the government has been trying to attract enough jobs to lighten inbound traffic to downtown Honolulu, is often called Oahu’s “second city.” It occupies much of 19th-century business mogul James Campbell’s 41,000-acre Ewa plain estate, which once cultivated vast tracts of sugarcane and pineapple.

The first phases of Kapolei broke ground in the 1980s. Today, it is a thriving community with government centers, industrial parks, big-box malls, businesses small and large, and the West Oahu campus of the University of Hawaii. The Ko Olina complex to the west is officially part of the district and has a Kapolei zip code.

s Sights

Hawaii’s Plantation Village

HISTORY MUSEUM | FAMILY | Starting in the 1800s, immigrants seeking work on the sugar plantations came to the Islands like so many waves against the shore, and this open-air museum examines the lives and cultures of the arrivals. Just 30 minutes from downtown Honolulu (without traffic), visit more than 25 authentically furnished buildings, original and replicated, that re-create and pay tribute to the plantation era. See a Chinese social hall; a Japanese shrine, sumo ring, and saimin stand; a dental office; and historic homes. You can explore on your own or take a guided tour (included in admission, but reserve ahead; several offered each day). EWaipahu Cultural Gardens Park, 94-695 Waipahu St., Waipahu P808/677–0110 whawaiiplantationvillage.org A$17 CClosed Sun.

; Beaches

HWhite Plains Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Concealed from the public eye for many years as part of the former Barbers Point Naval Air Station, this beach is reminiscent of Waikiki but without the condos and the crowds. It is a long, sloping stretch with numerous surf breaks, but the beach is also mild enough at the shore for older children to play freely. It has views of Pearl Harbor and, over that, Diamond Head. Although the sand lives up to its name, the real impact of this beach comes from its history as part of a military property for the better part of a century. Expansive parking, great restroom facilities, and numerous tree-covered barbecue areas make it a great day-trip spot. As a bonus, a Hawaiian monk seal takes up residence here several months out of the year (seals are rare in the Islands). Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: surfing; swimming. EEssex Rd. and Tripoli Rd., Kapolei jTake Makakilo Exit off H1 West, then turn left. Follow it into base gates, make left. Blue signs lead to beach.

p Performing Arts

LUAU

Mauka Warriors Luau

FOLK/TRADITIONAL DANCE | FAMILY | Unlike most island luau shows, Mauka Warriors at Hawaii Country Club goes beyond hula and fire-knife dances to tell the stories of King Kamehameha I, who aimed to unite the Hawaiian Islands, and also the warriors who populated islands throughout Polynesia. Tickets (three days a week) include a Polynesian buffet, various activities, and fascinating interactive performances. Transportation is available ($30 per person) from Honolulu and Waikiki. E94-1211 Kunia Rd., Waipahu P808/646–3945 wmaukawarriorsluau.com AFrom $139.

b Shopping

Aloha Stadium Swap Meet & Marketplace

MARKET | This thrice-weekly outdoor bazaar attracts hundreds of vendors and even more bargain hunters. Every Hawaiian souvenir imaginable can be found here, from coral shell necklaces to bikinis, as well as a variety of global wares, from Chinese brocaded dresses to Japanese pottery. There are also international foods, silk flowers, and luggage in aloha floral prints. That said, be prepared to wade through the usual sprinkling of used and counterfeit goods to find value. Wear comfortable shoes, use sunscreen, and bring bottled water. The flea market takes place in the parking lot of the (now-closed) Aloha Stadium Wednesday and Saturday 8–3 and Sunday 6:30–3. Admission is $2 per person ages 12 and up.

You can take either Uber or Lyft from your hotel. You might also ask your hotel concierge about shared shuttle services. For a cheaper but slower ride, take TheBus. The new Skyline trains connect Halawa/Aloha Stadium with East Kapolei. So you could shop at the swap meet and hop on the train, then walk or ride a bus 1½ miles to the Ka Makana Alii mall to treasure-hunt even longer—all without a car. EAloha Stadium, 99-500 Salt Lake Blvd., Aiea P808/486–6704 walohastadium.hawaii.gov.

Ewa Beach

6 miles east of Kapolei.

East of Kapolei is this growing suburban hub that’s chockablock with residential developments and services, as well as a new, major family-focused waterpark.

s Sights

HThe LineUp at Wai Kai

OTHER ATTRACTION | FAMILY | An all-in-one, surf-themed recreation complex at Hoakalei Resort (a master-planned community) on the Ewa Beach waterfront, the LineUp celebrates Hawaii’s connection with water, surf, and cultural traditions. It centers around the Wai Kai Wave, a 100-foot wave pool that emulates river surfing, and there’s also a 52-acre lagoon for paddling or floating. Wai Kai doesn’t have a hotel yet, but it serves as a popular community hub, with three restaurants and numerous programs and activities, such as farmers markets, surfing classes, and performances. It’s just a 10-minute drive from Kapolei and worth the drive to check out the complex. You can ride a shuttle to Wai Kai from West Oahu (Ko Olina, $35 round-trip) or Waikiki (from various resorts, $35 round-trip). E91-1621 Keoneula Blvd., Ewa Beach P808/515–7873 watthelineup.com A$50 for 4 hours at the Lagoon; from $60 for the Wave; $125 for Learn to Surf.

r Restaurants

HThe LookOut Food and Drink

$$ | HAWAIIAN | Airy and modern, this hip, lively bar and restaurant overlooks the Wai Kai wave pool for fantastic views of Oahu’s south shore, including Diamond Head, Honolulu, and Waikiki. The Hawaii-centric menu includes pizzas, salads, sandwiches, and a range of entrées, from a roasted veggie bowl and fish tacos to braised short rib loco moco (a comfort classic with white rice, meat such as a hamburger patty, fried eggs, and gravy); a dessert favorite is the strawberry guava parfait. Known for: kalua pork nachos and sliders, sashimi and ahi trio; good Sunday brunch; live or DJ music nightly. DAverage main: $20 E91-1621 Keoneula Blvd., Ewa Beach P808/900–3579 wwaikailookout.com.

Ko Olina

5 miles west of Kapolei, 25 miles west of downtown Honolulu.

For centuries, Hawaiian nobility rejuvenated at this pristine enclave on Oahu’s southwestern edge, but today Ko Olina is a major visitor hub, part of a decades-long master plan to attract jobs to the leeward side. The privately owned, 642-acre complex is a community unto itself, with one guarded public entrance/exit off Farrington Highway. It includes a golf course, three natural lagoons, a series of four man-made lagoons, three major resorts (each with a range of restaurants, shops, and activities), 4½ miles of walking paths, and a shopping area with additional restaurants and cafés. Ko Olina is also home to the famed Paradise Cove Luau.

The Lanikuhonua Nature Preserve, with its pristine beach, edges the north end of the complex. The shoreline is public, but most of the 11-acre site belongs to the Lanikuhonua Cultural Institute, a nonprofit that preserves and promotes Hawaiian culture.

Ko Olina’s lagoons are open to the public, but public parking is limited (first-come, first-served, sunrise to sunset). Arrive before 10 am to nab one of the prized spots. If you do manage to find a space, plan to walk at least a short bit to the lagoons along public access paths. Even resort guests pay hefty fees to park on-site.

; Beaches

HKo Olina Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | This is the best spot on the island if you have small kids. The resort area commissioned a series of four man-made lagoons, but, as it has to provide public beach access, you are the winner. Huge rock walls protect the lagoons, making them perfect spots for the kids to get their first taste of the ocean without getting bowled over. The large expanses of seashore grass and hala trees that surround the semicircle beaches are made-to-order for nap time. A 1½-mile jogging track connects the lagoons. Due to its appeal for keiki (children), Ko Olina is popular, and the parking lot fills up quickly when school is out and on weekends. Try to get here before 10 am; the biggest parking lot is at the farthest lagoon from the entrance. There are actually four resorts here: Aulani (the Disney resort), Four Seasons Resort Oahu, Marriot’s Ko Olina Beach Club (which has a time-share section as well), and Beach Villas at Ko Olina (condominiums with private vacation rentals). The area is 23 miles west of Honolulu. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming; walking. E92 Aliinui Dr., Ko Olina jTake Ko Olina exit off H1 West and proceed to guard shack.

r Restaurants

Ama Ama Restaurant

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | There’s nothing “Mickey Mouse” about the updated Hawaiian food at the prix fixe fine-dining restaurant of Aulani, the Disney resort, which has a reflecting pool and decor with beach house elements like a thatched roof. Add to that the views of the Ko Olina lagoons and Pacific Ocean—and nightly live music by top local performers in the adjacent bar—and you have an evening worth the pretty penny. Known for: four-course prix fixe menu, with plant-based option available for all courses; reservations are essential; hit-or-miss service. DAverage main: $125 EAulani, a Disney Resort & Spa, 92-1185 Aliinui Dr., Ko Olina P808/674–6200 wwww.disneyaulani.com/dining CClosed Tues. No lunch.

Makahiki – The Bounty of the Islands

$$$$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | The main restaurant at Disney’s Aulani resort offers three-course breakfast and dinner menus with a wide variety of locally produced items, as well as familiar dishes from stateside and the rest of the world. You’ll find sustainable Hawaiian seafood, Asian selections, familiar grilled meats and vegetables. lArrive early for dinner and have a drink at the adjacent Olelo Room, where the staff are fluent in Hawaiian; you can get a language lesson along with your libation. Known for: true reflection of Hawaii; many main-course choices, plus kids’ menus for breakfast and dinner; reservations essential, including for popular Disney character breakfasts (which book up weeks in advance). DAverage main: $75 EAulani, A Disney Resort & Spa, 92-1185 Aliinui Dr., Ko Olina P808/674–6200 wwww.disneyaulani.com/dining CNo lunch.

HMina’s Fish House

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Chef Michael Mina, a James Beard Award winner, designed an exceptional line-to-table menu that celebrates the local catch in a space with panoramic views from indoor and lanai oceanfront tables. This might be the only restaurant in Hawaii (or the world) to have an on-site “fish sommelier,” who guides you through the array of cooking techniques, flavorings, and portions—from fillet to whole fish—and helps you choose the best matches for your palate. Known for: charbroiled Hawaiian seafood tower; Kona lobster dishes and lobster pot pie; chili-miso glazed butterfish. DAverage main: $60 EFour Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina, 92-1001 Olani St., Ko Olina P808/679–0079 wwww.michaelmina.net CNo lunch.

Monkeypod Kitchen by Merriman Ko Olina

$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Local farm-to-table guru Peter Merriman is well-known throughout Hawaii for his inventive and popular restaurants, and this one captures his creativity and locally inspired food mantra perfectly. Hawaiian slack-key guitar music and the gentle buzz of diners kicking back make this a nice stop for a leisurely lunch—that could easily slide into happy hour. Known for: lobster deviled eggs and fresh fish tacos; indoor–outdoor setting; life-changing strawberry cream pie. DAverage main: $30 EKo Olina Resort, 92-1048 Olani St., Ko Olina P808/380–4086 wwww.monkeypodkitchen.com.

HNoe

$$$$ | ITALIAN | Classic dishes from southern Italy’s Amalfi Coast dominate the menu at this sleek Four Seasons restaurant, with seating indoors, in various intimate and more social spaces, and outdoors overlooking a nature preserve. Locals come to celebrate special occasions, while guests from throughout the Ko Olina community come to feast on house-made pastas—especially the signature tagliatelle with truffle pesto and mushrooms—and multiple dishes that showcase Kona lobster. Known for: four-course tasting menu is an option; extensive Italian wine list; outdoor nighttime dining experience. DAverage main: $51 EFour Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina, 92-1001 Olani St., Ko Olina P808/679–3347 wwww.fourseasons.com/oahu CNo lunch.

h Hotels

HAulani, a Disney Resort & Spa

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Disney’s first property in Hawaii melds the Disney magic with breathtaking vistas, white sandy beaches, and sunsets that even Mickey stops to watch. Pros: tons to do on-site, including an upscale spa; family-friendly done right; Painted Sky: HI Style Studio makeovers for kids. Cons: a long way from Waikiki; Disney character breakfasts require advance reservations far in advance; areas and events can get really busy. DRooms from: $764 E92-1185 Aliinui Dr., Kapolei P866/443–4763 reservations, 808/674–6200 hotel operator wwww.disneyaulani.com a832 rooms XNo Meals.

HFour Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina

$$$$ | RESORT | At the first Four Seasons on the island, nearly every room or suite in the 17-story hotel offers floor-to-ceiling windows and a private lanai, all with an ocean view. Pros: luxurious and exclusive; secluded, even in the Ko Olina complex; amenities and options, such as a spa, abound. Cons: an hour from Waikiki; luxury doesn’t come cheap; it doesn’t always measure up to other Four Seasons. DRooms from: $950 E92-1001 Olani St., in the Ko Olina complex, Ko Olina P808/808–7053 wwww.fourseasons.com/oahu a371 rooms XNo Meals.

p Performing Arts

LUAU

Paradise Cove Luau

FOLK/TRADITIONAL DANCE | FAMILY | At one of the largest events on Oahu, you can stroll, drink in hand, through an authentic Hawaiian village, learn traditional arts and crafts, and play local games. The lively stage show includes a fire-knife dancer, singing emcee, and both traditional and contemporary hula and other Polynesian dances. A finale dance features participation from the audience. Admission includes the buffet, activities, and the show. You pay extra for table service, box seating, and shuttle transport to and from Waikiki—but the stunning sunsets are free. It starts daily at 5. E92-1089 Alii Nui Dr., Ko Olina P808/842–5911 wwww.paradisecove.com A$150.

Waianae

9 miles north of Ko Olina.

Waianae refers to both the town and the western (leeward) shores of Oahu, from Ko Olina up to Keawaula Beach (Yokohama Bay) and the end of the road near Kaena Point. It’s mostly rural, without tourist traps and with few restaurants apart from fast-food outlets, tiny cafés, and hole-in-the-wall poke shacks. Still, the Waianae coast is well worth a day trip, mostly to experience an area where Hawaiians who are descendants of natives who populated the coast centuries before haoles (white people) arrived, live and play. The beaches boast crystal clear water. Turtles and dolphins swim near the shores, and when surf’s up, Oahu’s finest shredders show up to have fun and wow the watchers on the sand.

; Beaches

Makaha Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | This beach provides a slice of local life that most visitors don’t see. Families string up tarps for the day, fire up hibachis, set up lawn chairs, get out the fishing gear, and strum ukulele while they “talk story” (chat). Legendary waterman Buffalo Keaulana can be found in the shade of the palms playing with his grandkids and spinning yarns of yesteryear. In these waters, Buffalo not only invented some of the most outrageous methods of surfing, but also raised his world-champion son, Rusty. He also made Makaha the home of the world’s first international surf meet in 1954, and it still hosts his Big Board Surfing Classic. With its long, slow-building waves, the beach is a great spot to try out longboarding. The swimming is generally decent in summer, but avoid the big winter waves. The only parking is along the highway, but it’s free. Amenities: lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: surfing; swimming. E84-450 Farrington Hwy., Waianae jGo 32 miles west of Honolulu on the H1, then exit onto Farrington Hwy. The beach will be on your left.

Wahiawa

Approximately 20 miles northeast of Ko Olina, 20 miles north of downtown Honolulu.

Oahu’s central plain is a patchwork of old towns and new residential developments, military bases, farms, ranches, and shopping malls, with a few noteworthy attractions and historic sites scattered about. Central Oahu encompasses the Moanalua Valley, residential Pearl City and Mililani, and the old plantation town of Wahiawa, on the uplands halfway to the North Shore.

James Dole first planted pineapples in the central plateau in the early 1900s, and the Dole Pineapple Plantation fields still border the northern limits of Wahiawa, a small town with a heavy military and working-class vibe. Lake Wilson (Wahiawa Reservoir) surrounds three sides of the town, and Highway 99 crosses two bridges (and several stoplights) to pass through.

Wahiawa is the commercial hub for several military bases, including Schofield Barracks, Wheeler Army Airfield, and the U.S. Naval Computer and Telecommunications Area Master Station Pacific. The main drag—a five-block stretch of Highway 99 where traffic often slows to a snail’s pace—was once a fast-food mecca but in recent years has given birth to a handful of decent cafés and restaurants.

s Sights

Dole Plantation

OTHER ATTRACTION | FAMILY | Pineapple plantation days are nearly defunct in Hawaii, but you can still celebrate the state’s famous golden fruit at this promotional center with exhibits, a huge gift shop, a snack concession, educational displays, and one of the world’s largest mazes. Take the self-guided Garden Tour, or hop aboard the Pineapple Express for a 20-minute train tour to learn a bit about life on a pineapple plantation. Kids love the more than 3-acre Pineapple Garden Maze, made up of 14,000 tropical plants and trees. If you do nothing else, stop by the cafeteria in the back for a delicious pineapple soft-serve Dole Whip. This is about a 40-minute drive from Waikiki, a suitable stop on the way to or from the North Shore. E64-1550 Kamehameha Hwy., Wahiawa P808/621–8408 wwww.doleplantation.com APlantation free, Pineapple Express $14, maze $10, garden tour $8.

HKo Hana Distillers

DISTILLERY | Polynesians brought sugarcane to Hawaii more than 1,000 years ago, long before plantations were established on the Islands in the 1800s. Ko Hana grows 34 varieties of heirloom sugarcane and harvests it all by hand, then presses and distills the juice to make small-batch pure-cane rums. Stop by the tasting room at the farm in rural Kunia near Wahiawa, in the heart of the central valley, for tastings. Standout rums include Koho, a barrel-aged rum, and Kokoleka, made with pure cacao and raw honey. Sign up in advance for tours, which happen daily every hour until 4 pm and include a side-by-side tasting of white and barrel-aged rums. For a more in-depth experience, reserve a spot on a farm tour (Thursday morning at 10) and sample canes as well as rums. E92-1770 Kunia Rd., Kunia P808/649–0830 wwww.kohanarum.com ATasting $10, tour and tasting $25, farm tour $45.

The North Shore

An hour from town and a world away in atmosphere, Oahu’s North Shore, roughly from Kahuku Point to Kaena Point, is about small farms and big waves, tourist traps, and otherworldly landscapes. Parks and beaches, roadside fruit stands and shrimp shacks, and a valley preserve offer a dozen reasons to stop between the onetime plantation town of Kahuku and the surf mecca of Haleiwa.

Haleiwa has had many lives, from resort getaway in the 1900s to plantation town through the 20th century to its life today as a surfer and tourist magnet. Beyond Haleiwa is the tiny village of Waialua; a string of beach parks; an airfield where gliders, hang gliders, and parachutists play; and, at the end of the road, Kaena Point State Park, which offers a brisk hike, striking views, and whale-watching in season.

Pack wisely for a day’s North Shore excursion: swim and snorkel gear, light jacket and hat (the weather is mercurial, especially in winter), sunscreen and sunglasses, bottled water and snacks, towels and a picnic blanket, and both sandals and closed-toe shoes for hiking. A small cooler is nice; you may want to pick up some fruit or fresh corn. As always, leave valuables in the hotel safe, and lock the car whenever you park.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

From Waikiki, the quickest route to the North Shore is H1 west to H2 north, and then the Kamehameha Highway past Wahiawa. You’ll hit Haleiwa in just under an hour. The windward route (H1 east, H3, Likelike or Pali Highway, through the mountains, or Kamehameha Highway north) takes at least 90 minutes to Haleiwa, but the drive is far prettier.

Waialua

30 miles northwest of Honolulu.

A tranquil, multicultural burg with sleepy residential areas, uncrowded beach parks, and small mom-and-pop businesses, Wailua provides refuge from neighboring (and often tourist-choked) Haleiwa. In the 1900s, the Waialua Sugar Company attracted workers from around the world, and their descendants continue to live and work here. The former sugar operation buildings now hold a general store and eclectic, trendy shops, art studios, maker spaces for surfboard shapers and other craftspeople, and a coffee mill. Waialua is also the gateway to a wild and scenic coastline that includes Mokuleia Beach Park, Kaena Point State Park, and Kawaihapai Airfield (formerly known as Dillingham Airfield), where gliders and parachutists launch and land.

s Sights

Kaena Point State Park

STATE/PROVINCIAL PARK | The name means “the heat,” and, indeed, this windy, barren coast lacks both shade and fresh water (or any man-made amenities). Pack water, wear sturdy closed-toe shoes, don sunscreen and a hat, and lock the car. The hike is along a rutted dirt road, mostly flat and nearly 3 miles long (one-way), ending at a rocky, sandy headland. It is here that Hawaiians believed the souls of the dead met with their family gods and, if judged worthy to enter the afterlife, leapt off into eternal darkness at Leina Kauhane, just south of the point. Note that the point can also be accessed by trail (the hike is about the same length) from West Oahu at the Keawaula entrance, off another part of Farrington Highway.

In summer and at low tide, the small coves offer bountiful shelling; in winter, don’t venture near the water. Rare native plants dot the landscape, and seabirds like the Laysan albatross nest here. If you’re lucky, you might spot seals sunbathing on the rocks. From November through March, watch for humpback whales spouting and breaching. Binoculars and a camera are highly recommended. E69-385 Farrington Hwy., Waialua wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/oahu/kaena-point-state-park.

; Beaches

Mokuleia Beach Park

BEACH | There is a reason why the producers of the TV show Lost chose this beach for their set: it’s on the island’s remote, northwest point and about 10 miles from the closest store or public restroom. Its beauty is in its lack of facilities and isolation—all the joy of being stranded on a deserted island without the trauma of the plane crash. The beach is wide and white, the waters bright blue (but a little choppy) and full of sea turtles and other marine life. Mokuleia is a great secret find; just remember to pack supplies and use caution, as there are no lifeguards. Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: sunset, walking. E68-67 Farrington Hwy., Waialua jWest of Haleiwa town center, across from Kawaihapai (formerly Dillingham) Airfield.

Malasadas r

Malasadas are a contribution of the Portuguese, who came to the Hawaiian Islands to work on the plantations. Roughly translated, the name means “half-cooked,” as these deep-fried, heavily sugared treats are said to have been created as a way to use up scraps of rich, buttery egg dough. They are similar to fluffy doughnuts and are offered in many flavors; some are filled with fruit or cream.

You’ll find malasadas at farmers’ markets, fairs, and carnivals. A few Honolulu bakeries specialize in them, including Leonard’s Bakery (E933 Kapahulu Ave.) and Kamehameha Bakery (E1284 Kalani St., Unit D-106). Some Honolulu restaurants serve upscale versions, stuffed with fruit puree. Regardless, eat them fresh and hot or not at all.

Haleiwa

3 miles northeast of Waialua, 30 miles northwest of Honolulu.

The North Shore’s shopping, dining, and surf-culture hub has preserved its historic plantation-era roots and melded it with a laid-back 1960s vibe. The town sits amid a picture-perfect setting on Waialua Bay, where the Anahulu River empties into the harbor.

In the 1920s, the posh Haleiwa Hotel stood at the end of a railroad line (both long gone). During the ‘60s, hippies congregated here, followed by surfers from around the world. Today, the streets of historic Haleiwa Town reflect a fun mix of old and new, with charming general stores and contemporary boutiques, galleries, and eateries. Haleiwa Alii Beach Park and Haleiwa Beach Park border the bay and provide endless opportunities for water sports and other activities. Be sure to stop in at Liliuokalani Protestant Church, founded by missionaries in the 1830s. It’s fronted by a large, stone archway built in 1910 and covered with night-blooming cereus (a type of cactus). Also check out the historic Rainbow Bridge, whose distinctive double arches appear in many local works of art.

; Beaches

HHaleiwa Alii Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | The winter waves are impressive here, but in summer, the ocean is like a lake, ideal for family swimming. The beach itself is big and tends to be full of locals. Its broad lawn off the highway is often the site of volleyball and Frisbee games, family barbecues, and art festivals and carnivals. Surf contests for amateurs and professionals regularly take place here. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: surfing; swimming. E66-167 Haleiwa Rd., Haleiwa jNorth of Haleiwa town center and past harbor.

r Restaurants

HBanzai Sushi Bar

$$ | JAPANESE FUSION | An array of authentic Japanese dishes made with Hawaiian seafood and fresh, seasonal, mostly organic North Shore veggies and fruits attracts locals and visitors alike to this hip yet family-friendly sushi house. The extensive menu includes classic sashimi and tempura, standard and off-the-wall sushi rolls, Wagyu beef, broiled fish entrées, and various vegetarian and gluten-free options. Known for: full bar with good selection of Japanese whiskeys and sakes; rolls using macadamia nuts and island spices; some traditional Japanese seating. DAverage main: $28 ENorth Shore Marketplace, 66-246 Kamehameha Hwy., Suite B, Haleiwa P808/637–4404 wbanzaisushibarhawaii.com CClosed Mon. and Tues. No lunch.

Haleiwa Joe’s Seafood Grill

$$$ | AMERICAN | After the long drive to the North Shore, watching the boats and surfers come and go from the harbor while you enjoy a mai tai on the open-air lanai here may be just what you need. This casual little joint, just past the Rainbow Bridge, rarely changes (to some, that might feel dated, but regulars appreciate the familiarity); a more upscale Kaneohe location overlooks the lush Haiku Gardens. Known for: reliable food with a nice harbor setting; crunchy coconut shrimp and good daily fish specials; reservations not accepted. DAverage main: $35 E66-011 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa P808/637–8005 wwww.haleiwajoes.com CNo lunch Mon.–Sat.

HMaya’s Tapas & Wine

$$$ | TAPAS | A cozy, romantic space with a slightly sophisticated (for the North Shore) vibe, Maya’s serves up classic Spanish and Mediterranean dishes with island twists, including a variety of tapas as well as some larger plates. Here, seafood paella is made with local line-caught fish and shrimp, a burger showcases Kunoa beef, and hand-tossed flatbreads come with roasted local veggies and macadamia nut pesto. Known for: craft cocktails and sangria; savory paella and other specials; popular happy hour and weekend brunch. DAverage main: $31 E66-250 Kamehameha Hwy., Unit D-101, Haleiwa P808/200–2964 wwww.mayastapasandwine.com CClosed Mon. No dinner Sun.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Matsumoto’s Shave Ice

$ | CAFÉ | FAMILY | For a real slice of Haleiwa life, stop at this family-run spot for cool treats that are available in every flavor imaginable. For something different, order a shave ice with house-made adzuki beans—the red beans are boiled until soft, mixed with sugar, and then placed in the cone with the ice on top. Known for: one of the most popular shave ice spots on Oahu; the Matsumoto with lemon, pineapple, and coconut syrup; in business since 1951. DAverage main: $4 E66-111 Kamehameha Hwy., Suite 605, Haleiwa P808/637–4827 wwww.matsumotoshaveice.com.

b Shopping

The Growing Keiki

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING | FAMILY | Frequent visitors return to this store year after year for a fresh supply of unique, locally made, Hawaiian-style clothing for youngsters. E66-051 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa P808/637–4544 wwww.instagram.com/TheGrowingKeiki.

HSilver Moon Emporium

CLOTHING | The small boutique carries everything from Brighton jewelry and European designer wear to fashionable T-shirts, shoes, and handbags. Expect attentive and personalized yet casual service. The stock changes frequently, and there’s always something wonderful on sale. No matter what your taste, you’ll find something for everyday wear or special occasions. ENorth Shore Marketplace, 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa P808/637–7710 wwww.instagram.com/silvermoon_emporium_haleiwa.

Pupukea

6 miles northeast of Haleiwa.

Pupukea is a tiny village that anchors the Seven Mile Miracle, the legendary stretch of North Shore coast that faithfully serves up some of the world’s best barrels and perfectly shaped waves every winter. It’s also home to Foodland, the only grocery store between Kahuku/Laie and Haleiwa, which means you’re likely to rub elbows in the checkout line with seasoned professional surfers and visiting celebrities, along with slipper-clad locals. Across the street are Shark’s Cove and Three Tables, both excellent snorkeling and scuba sites when the winter swells abate. The Banzai Pipeline and Sunset (Paumalu) Beach are just a mile up the road. Drive up the hill behind Foodland to explore the sacred Puu o Mahuka Heiau, the largest shrine on the island.

s Sights

Puu o Mahuka Heiau State Historic Site

RUINS | Worth a stop for its spectacular views from a bluff high above the ocean overlooking Waimea Bay, this sacred spot spans 2 acres and is the largest heiau (place of worship) on Oahu. At one time it was used as a heiau luakini, or a temple for human sacrifices. Puu o Mahuka may have been built in the 17th century, and its use for religious purposes ended in 1819. The remnants of its stone walls are impressive, and the site is now on the National Register of Historic Places. Turn up the road at the Pupukea Foodland and follow it to the site. EPupukea Rd., ½ mile north of Waimea Bay, Pupukea jFrom Rte. 83, turn right on Pupukea Rd. and drive 1 mile uphill wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/oahu/puu-o-mahuka-heiau-state-historic-site AFree.

HWaimea Valley

GARDEN | FAMILY | Waimea gets lots of press for the giant winter waves in the bay, but the valley itself is a newsmaker and an ecological treasure, with a local nonprofit working to conserve and restore its natural habitat. Follow the Kamananui Stream up the valley through the 1,875 acres of gardens. The botanical collections here have more than 5,000 species of tropical flora, including a superb gathering of native Hawaiian and international plants. It’s the best place on the island to see native species, such as the endangered Hawaiian moorhen. You can visit the restored Hale o Lono heiau (shrine) and other ancient archaeological sites as well; evidence suggests that the area was an important spiritual center. Daily activities include botanical walking tours and cultural tours. This is also the venue for the Haleiwa Farmers’ Market every Thursday from 2 to 6. At the back of the valley (a ¾-mile walk one-way), Waihi Falls plunges 45 feet into a swimming pond. lBring your board shorts—a swim is the perfect way to end your hike, although the pond can get crowded. Bring mosquito repellent, too; it can get buggy. E59-864 Kamehameha Hwy., Pupukea P808/638–7766 wwww.waimeavalley.net A$25.

; Beaches

Ehukai Beach Park

BEACH | What sets Ehukai apart is the view of the famous Banzai Pipeline, where the winter waves curl into magnificent tubes, making it an experienced wave-rider’s dream. It’s also an inexperienced swimmer’s nightmare. Spring and summer waves, on the other hand, are more accommodating to the average person, and there’s good snorkeling. Except when the surf contests are happening, there’s no reason to stay on the central strip. Travel in either direction from the center, and the conditions remain the same but the population thins out, leaving you with a magnificent stretch of sand all to yourself. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; surfing. E59-337 Ke Nui Rd., Pupukea j1 mile north of Foodland at Pupukea.

HPupukea Beach Park (Shark’s Cove)

BEACH | Surrounded by shade trees, Pupukea Beach is pounded by surf in the winter months but offers great diving and snorkeling in summer (March through October). Its cavernous lava tubes and tunnels are great for both novice and experienced snorkelers and divers, though you must wear reef shoes at all times since there are a lot of sharp rocks. Sharp rocks also mean that this beach isn’t the best for little ones. Some dive-tour companies offer round-trip transportation from Waikiki. Equipment rentals and dining options are nearby. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: diving; snorkeling; swimming. E59-729 Kamehameha Hwy., Pupukea j3½ miles north of Haleiwa, across street from Foodland.

HSunset Beach Park (Paumalu Beach Park)

BEACH | The beach is broad, the sand is soft, the summer waves are gentle—making for good snorkeling—and the winter surf is crashing. Many love searching this shore for the puka shells that adorn the necklaces you see everywhere. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; sunset; surfing. E59-144 Kamehameha Hwy., Pupukea j1 mile north of Ehukai Beach Park.

HWaimea Bay Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | Made popular in that old Beach Boys song “Surfin’ U.S.A.,” this is a slice of big-wave (25 to 30 feet) heaven in winter. Summer is the time to swim and snorkel in the calm waters, and the beach is good for families then. The shore break is great for novice bodysurfers. Due to the beach’s popularity, its postage-stamp parking lot is often full, but it’s also possible to park along the side of the road and walk in. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; surfing; swimming. E61-31 Kamehameha Hwy., Pupukea jAcross from Waimea Valley, 3 miles north of Haleiwa.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Ted’s Bakery

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Sunburned tourists and salty surfers rub shoulders in their quest for Ted’s famous chocolate haupia cream pie (layered coconut and dark chocolate puddings topped with whipped cream) and hearty plates such as garlic shrimp, gravy-drenched hamburger steak, and mahi mahi. Parking spots and the umbrella-shaded tables are at a premium, so be prepared to grab and go; if you can’t get enough of that haupia goodness, Foodland and other grocery chains typically stock a selection of the famous pies. Known for: Ted’s pies, which seem to show up at every Oahu potluck; reliable all-day dining; plate lunches. DAverage main: $14 E59-024 Kamehameha Hwy., Pupukea P808/638–8207 wwww.tedsbakery.com.

p Performing Arts

Toa Luau at Waimea Valley

FOLK/TRADITIONAL DANCE | FAMILY | Don a flower lei and feast on traditional Hawaiian luau fare while enjoying cultural activities and a Polynesian show, with a choice of start time at 12:30 or 5 on Monday and Wednesday through Friday. It’s a three-hour experience, and tickets include a Waimea Valley pass so you can explore the gardens before the luau. E59-864 Kamehameha Hwy., Pupukea P877/778–0273 wwww.toaluau.com AFrom $115.

Kahuku

Kawela Bay is 5½ miles northeast of Pupukea, Kahuku is about 9 miles northeast of Pupukea.

The Kahuku district, which stretches from Kahuku town to Kawela Bay, includes Kahuku Point, the northernmost point on Oahu. The area is best known for fresh fruits and veggies from local farms (watch for stands along the highway), shrimp shacks, and exceptional high school football stars who go on to play at top-tier colleges and in the NFL. Kahuku town has a collection of brand-name stores and tiny mom-and-pop shops amid modest residential neighborhoods filled with longtime island residents. Multimillion-dollar homes line the shores of the gated Kawela Bay community, but there’s public beach access off Kamehameha Highway at Kawela Camp. Park on the side of the road, and walk about ¼ mile along a trail to get there.

; Beaches

Turtle Bay (Kuilima Cove)

BEACH | FAMILY | Now known more for its namesake resort than its magnificent beach at Kuilima Cove, Turtle Bay is mostly passed over on the way to the better-known beaches of Sunset and Waimea. But for those with average swimming capabilities, this is a good place to be. The crescent-shaped stretch is protected by a huge sea wall, so you can see and hear the fury of the northern swell while blissfully floating in cool, calm waters. The convenience of this spot is also hard to pass up—a concession sells sandwiches and sunblock right on the beach. The resort has free parking for beach guests. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming. E57-20 Kuilima Dr., 4 miles north of Kahuku, Kahuku jTurn into Turtle Bay Resort and follow signs to public parking lot and beach access spots.

r Restaurants

HBeach House by Roy Yamaguchi

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Loyalists of Roy Yamaguchi’s celebrated spots in Hawaii Kai and Waikiki are thrilled to find his North Shore outpost—a rustic, beam-and-concrete-floor pavilion literally on the sand at Turtle Bay. All the favorites are served at this more beach-casual spot, from miso deep-water black cod to beef short ribs, along with a more casual lunch menu. Known for: casual, romantic setting right on the beach; fresh North Shore ingredients; good for celebrations. DAverage main: $56 ETurtle Bay Resort, 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku P808/293–0801 wwww.royyamaguchi.com.

HKahuku Farms Café

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | Fourth-generation descendants of Japanese sugarcane workers own and operate this casual café, set on the edge of a 140-acre farm north of the food truck village. Menu items include panini, pizzas, wraps, salads, iced drinks, and smoothies, all filled with homegrown ingredients, from lilikoi (passion fruit) and cacao to açai and sweet papaya; enjoy your meal or snack at outdoor shaded tables near a tree-studded lawn and gardens. Known for: hour-long wagon farm tour on select days, including fruit and chocolate tasting; seasonal açai bowls with apple bananas and berries; lots of veggie and vegan choices, can add chicken to many dishes. DAverage main: $17 E56-800 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku P808/628–0639 wkahukufarms.com CClosed Tues. and Wed. No dinner.

h Hotels

HTurtle Bay Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Sprawling over nearly 1,300 acres of natural landscape on the edge of Kuilima Point in Kahuku, this resort has spacious guest rooms (averaging nearly 500 square feet) with lanai that showcase stunning peninsula views. Pros: fabulous open public spaces in a secluded area of Oahu; numerous amenities such as a beautiful spa and four outdoor pools; excellent location for exploring the North Shore. Cons: remote—even Haleiwa is a 20-minute drive; hefty resort fee; 24/7 resort living isn’t for everyone. DRooms from: $759 E57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku P808/293–6000, 866/475–2567, wwww.turtlebayresort.com a452 rooms XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

HOff the Lip

COCKTAIL BARS | West-oriented views (particularly stellar at sunset), creative cocktails incorporating fresh fruit and herbs from neighboring farms, house-made syrups and spirits, and live entertainment most nights draw locals and visitors to this classy, surf-themed lobby bar at Turtle Bay Resort. It’s also the only nightlife choice on the North Shore east of Haleiwa, and night crawlers should know that the bar usually stops serving by 10 pm. ETurtle Bay Resort, 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku P866/475–2569 wwww.turtlebayresort.com/dining/lip.

Windward (East) Oahu

Looking at Honolulu’s topsy-turvy urban sprawl, you would never suspect the windward side existed. Here the pace is slower, and hiking, diving, surfing, boating, and lounging on the beach are the primary draws.

Oahuans like to keep the existence of the windward side a secret so they can watch the awe on the faces of their guests when the car emerges from tunnels through the mountains and the panorama of turquoise bays and emerald valleys is revealed. Jaws literally drop. Every time. And this just a 15-minute drive from downtown.

It’s on this side of the island where many Native Hawaiians live. Evidence of traditional lifestyles is abundant in old fishponds, rock platforms that once were altars, taro patches still being worked, and throw-net fishermen posed stock-still above the water (though today, they’re invariably wearing polarized sunglasses, the better to spot the fish).

The natural world on this side of the island beckons. But a visit to the Polynesian Cultural Center and poking through little shops and wayside stores are musts as well.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

There are a couple of ways to reach the windward side. One possibility is to spend a day hugging the coast all the way to Laie, home of the Polynesian Cultural Center. First, head east on the H1 past Diamond Head until it becomes Kalanianaole Highway. Look for Kamehameha Highway upon reaching Kaneohe, and follow this two-lane road all the way to the North Shore.

Another option that’s just as spectacular but much more direct is taking the H1 to either the Pali Highway, the Likelike Highway, or the H3 across the mountains and through the tunnels to Kaneohe and beyond. Although the Pali Highway affords the opportunity to take in the view from its namesake lookout, the H3 offers the most breathtakingly beautiful arrival to this side of the island.

Hawaii Kai

Approximately 10 miles southeast of Waikiki.

Driving southeast from Waikiki on busy, four-lane Kalanianaole Highway, you’ll pass a dozen bedroom communities tucked into the valleys at the foot of the Koolau Range, with fleeting glimpses of the ocean from a couple of pocket parks. Suddenly, civilization falls away, the road narrows to two lanes, and you enter the rugged coastline of Koko Head and Ka Iwi. This is a cruel coastline: dry and windswept, with rocky shores and untamed waves that are notoriously treacherous. While walking its beaches, do not turn your back on the ocean, don’t venture close to wet areas where high waves occasionally reach, and heed warning signs.

At this point, you’re passing through Koko Head Regional Park. On your right is the bulging remnant of a pair of volcanic craters that the Hawaiians called Kawaihoa, known today as Koko Head. To the left is Koko Crater and an area of the park that includes a hiking trail, a dryland botanical garden, a firing range, and a riding stable. Ahead is a sinuous shoreline with scenic pullouts and beaches to explore. Named the Ka Iwi Coast (iwi, “ee-vee,” are bones—sacred to Hawaiians and full of symbolism) for the channel just offshore, this area was once home to a ranch and small fishing enclave that were destroyed by a tidal wave in the 1940s.

s Sights

HHalona Blowhole

VIEWPOINT | Below a scenic turnout along the Koko Head shoreline, this oft-photographed lava tube sucks the ocean in and spits it out. Don’t get too close, as conditions can get dangerous. lLook to your right to see the tiny beach below that was used to film the wave-washed love scene in From Here to Eternity. In winter, this is a good spot to watch whales at play. Offshore, the island of Molokai calls like a distant siren, and, every once in a while, Lanai is visible in blue silhouette. Take your valuables with you, and lock your car, because this popular scenic location is a hot spot for petty thieves. EKalanianaole Hwy., Hawaii Kai j1 mile east of Hanauma Bay.

Koko Crater Botanical Garden

GARDEN | If you’ve visited any of Oahu’s other botanical gardens, Koko Crater will stand in stark contrast. Inside the tallest tuff (a type of volcanic rock) cone on Oahu, in one of the island’s hottest and driest areas, the garden showcases dryland species of plants, including baobab trees, cacti, plumeria, and bougainvillea. lBring plenty of water, sunscreen, and a hat. Though it’s close to Oahu’s more lush windward side, this is a scorching spot. E7491 Kokonani St., Hawaii Kai jEntrance at end of Kokonani St. P808/768–7135 whonolulu.gov/parks/hbg AFree.

Lanai Lookout

VIEWPOINT | A little more than a ½ mile past Hanauma Bay as you head toward Makapuu Point, you’ll see a turnout on the ocean side with some fine views of the coastline. In winter, you’ll have an opportunity to see storm-generated waves crashing against lava cliffs. This is also a popular place for winter whale-watching, so bring your binoculars, some sunscreen, and a picnic lunch, and join the small crowd scanning for telltale white spouts of water only a few hundred yards away. On clear days, you should be able to see the islands of Molokai and Lanai off in the distance, hence the name. EKalanianaole Hwy., Hawaii Kai jJust past Hanauma Bay.

HShangri La Museum of Islamic Art, Culture & Design

HISTORIC HOME | For more than 50 years after heiress Doris Duke bought land here in 1936 and began to build a home, Shangri La was a work in progress as Duke traveled the world, buying art and furnishings and picking up ideas for her Mughal Garden, for the Playhouse in the style of a 17th-century Irani pavilion, and for the water terraces and tropical gardens. When she died in 1993, Duke left instructions that her home was to become a public center for the study of Islamic art. lThe house is open only via the guided tours that depart from downtown’s Honolulu Museum of Art. Tours take about 2½ hours, and require reservations. Book your spot as early as possible, and note that children under eight are not permitted. EHonolulu Museum of Art, 900 S. Beretania St., Downtown jTours of Shangri La depart from museum P808/532–3853 for Honolulu Museum of Art wshangrilahawaii.org A$25 CClosed Sun.–Wed. x$5 parking at Honolulu Museum of Art.

; Beaches

HHanauma Bay Nature Preserve

BEACH | FAMILY | Picture this as the world’s biggest open-air aquarium: you come to see fish, and fish you’ll see. Due to their exposure to thousands of visitors every week, these fish are more like family pets than the skittish marine life you might expect. An old volcanic crater has created a haven from the waves where the coral has thrived. Note that there’s a fee for nonresidents to enter the preserve; make reservations and prepay online ahead of time (locals have a morning time period where they can walk in without a reservation). You must also watch a nine-minute video about the nature preserve in its educational center before being allowed down to the bay. Snorkel equipment and lockers are available for rent, and you can walk the short distance from the parking lot or take a tram. lIt’s best to visit early in the morning (around 7), as it’s difficult to park later in the day. Need transportation? Take TheBus each way from anywhere on the island. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. E7455 Kalanianaole Hwy., Hawaii Kai P808/768–6861 whanaumabaystatepark.com ANonresidents $25; parking $3 (cash only); snorkel rental $20 CClosed Mon. and Tues.

HSandy Beach Park

BEACH | Very popular with locals, this broad, sloping beach is covered with sunbathers who come to soak up the rays and watch “The Show”—a shore break that’s like no other in the Islands. Monster ocean swells rolling into the beach combined with the sudden rise in the ocean floor cause waves to jack up and crash magnificently. Expert surfers and bodyboarders young and old brave the dangers to enjoy some of the biggest barrels around. zUse extreme caution when swimming here. The stretch is nicknamed Break-Neck Beach for a reason: many neck and back injuries are sustained here each year. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: walking. E7850 Kalanianaole Hwy., Hawaii Kai jMakai (toward ocean) of Kalanianaole Hwy., 2 miles east of Hanauma Bay.

r Restaurants

Roy’s Hawaii Kai

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Roy Yamaguchi is one of the 12 founding chefs of Hawaiian regional cuisine, a culinary movement that put the state on the foodie map back in 1991. Opened in 1988, his flagship restaurant across the highway from Maunalua Bay is still packed every night—reservations are essential—with food-savvy visitors and well-heeled residents, all of whom come for classics like smoked Szechuan baby back ribs or blackened ahi with soy mustard butter sauce. Known for: spectacular sunset views and a tiki torch–lit lanai and bar area; small and large portions available for many dishes; signature items like blackened ahi have a cultlike following. DAverage main: $55 EHawaii Kai Corporate Plaza, 6600 Kalanianaole Hwy., Hawaii Kai P808/396–7697 wwww.royyamaguchi.com CNo lunch.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Kokonuts Shave Ice & Snacks

$ | ICE CREAM | FAMILY | Why not stop for shave ice like President Barack Obama did while visiting the island after the 2008 election? This spot in Koko Marina Center serves fluffy shave ice, bubble drinks, ice cream, and more. Known for: shave ice with syrup flavors such as strawberry, coconut, and lilikoi (passion fruit); açai bowls; credit cards not accepted. DAverage main: $5 EKoko Marina Center, 7192 Kalanianaole Hwy., Unit E121 P808/396–8809 cNo credit cards.

Waimanalo

11 miles north of Hawaii Kai.

Home to more Native Hawaiian families than Kailua to the north or Hawaii Kai to the south, this modest little seaside town flanked by chiseled cliffs draws visitors with its beautiful beaches, offering glorious views to the windward side. Bellows Field Beach Park is great for swimming, bodysurfing, and camping, and Waimanalo Bay Beach Park is also safe for swimming. Down the side roads, as you head mauka (toward the mountains), are little farms that grow a variety of fruits and flowers. Toward the back of the valley are small ranches with grazing horses. lIf you see any trucks selling corn, and you have a place to cook it, get some. It may be the sweetest you’ll ever eat, and prices are the lowest on Oahu.

s Sights

HMakapuu Point Lighthouse Trail

TRAIL | FAMILY | Nestled in the cliff face, the Makapuu Lighthouse became operational in 1909 and has the largest lighthouse lens in the United States. The lighthouse is closed to the public, but near the Makapuu Point turnout is the start of a paved mile-long road (it’s closed to vehicular traffic). Hike to the top of the 647-foot bluff to get a closer view of the lighthouse and, in winter, to do some whale-watching. lPark in the free parking lot for the trail (it’s busiest on the weekends), but don’t attempt to continue driving to the gates for the military base since civilian vehicles are not allowed. EKa Iwi State Scenic Shoreline, Kalanianaole Hwy., Waimanalo jAt Makapuu Beach wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/hiking/oahu AFree CGates to the trail open daily 7 am–6:45 pm.

; Beaches

Bellows Field Beach Park

BEACH | Bellows is the same beach as Waimanalo, but it’s under the auspices of the military, making it more friendly for visitors—though you need a Department of Defense ID to access one side of the beach. The park area is excellent for camping, and ironwood trees provide plenty of shade. There are no food concessions, but McDonald’s and other takeout options are right outside the entrance gate; there’s also a weekend farmers’ market. lThe beach is best before 2 pm. After 2, trade winds bring clouds that get hung up on steep mountains nearby, causing overcast skies. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: solitude; swimming; walking. E520 Tinker Rd., Waimanalo jEnter on Kalanianaole Hwy. near Waimanalo town center CClosed Mon.–Thurs.

Makapuu Beach Park

BEACH | A magnificent beach protected by Makapuu Point welcomes you to the windward side. Hang gliders circle above, and the water is filled with bodyboarders. Just off the coast you can see Bird Island, a sanctuary for aquatic fowl, jutting out of the blue. The currents can be heavy, so check with a lifeguard if you’re unsure of safety. Before you leave, take the prettiest (and coldest) outdoor shower available on the island. Being surrounded by tropical flowers and foliage while you rinse off that sand will be a memory you will cherish from this side of the rock. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunrise; walking. E41-095 Kalanianaole Hwy., Waimanalo jAcross from Sea Life Park Hawaii, 2 miles south of Waimanalo.

HWaimanalo Bay Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | One of the most beautiful beaches on Oahu, Waimanalo is a local pick, busy with picnicking families and active sports fields. Expect a wide stretch of sand; turquoise, emerald, and deep-blue water; and gentle shore-breaking waves that are fun for all ages. Theft is an occasional problem, so lock your car. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunrise; swimming; walking. E41-849 Kalanianaole Hwy., Waimanalo jSouth of Waimanalo town center.

Kailua

6 miles north of Waimanalo.

Upscale Kailua, easily accessed from Honolulu via the Pali Highway, has two of Oahu’s best beaches as well as great shopping and dining opportunities in its central core. You could easily spend a day visiting the stunning beaches, kayaking, exploring a hidden heiau (shrine), picnicking, or dining out with locals.

s Sights

Ulupo Heiau State Historic Site

RUINS | Find this spot—where signs near a heiau (shrine) also explain Kailua’s early history—tucked next to the Windward YMCA. Although they may look like piles of rocks to the uninitiated, heiau are sacred stone platforms for the worship of the gods and date from ancient times; this one is 140 feet by 80 feet. Ulupo means “night inspiration,” referring to the legendary Menehune, a mythical race of diminutive people who are said to have built the heiau under the cloak of darkness. EKalanianaole Hwy. and Kailua Rd., Kailua jBehind Windward YMCA wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/oahu.

; Beaches

HKailua Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | A cobalt-blue sea and a wide, continuous arc of powdery sand make this one of the island’s best beaches, as illustrated by the crowds of local families who spend their weekend days here. The water is calm, a line of palms and ironwoods provides shade on the sand, and a huge park has picnic pavilions where you can escape the heat. This is also the “it” spot for windsurfing or kiteboarding, and you can rent kayaks nearby at Kailua Beach Adventures (E130 Kailua Rd.) for day trips to the Mokulua Islands. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: swimming; walking; windsurfing. E437 Kawailoa Rd., Kailua jNear Kailua town, turn right on Kailua Rd. After Kalapawai Market, cross bridge, then turn left into beach parking lot.

Lanikai Beach

BEACH | Think of the beaches you see in commercials: peaceful jade-green waters, powder-soft white sand, families and dogs frolicking, and offshore islands in the distance. It’s an ideal spot for stretching out with a book. Though the beach hides behind multimillion-dollar houses, by state law there is public access every 400 yards. Street parking is available but very difficult to find (and prohibited on holiday weekends). Consider parking at Kailua Beach Park and walking along the paved pathway into Lanikai. Just don’t block the boat ramp stalls. There are no shower or bathroom facilities here—but you’ll find both at Kailua Beach Park. lLook for walled or fenced pathways every 400 yards, leading to the beach. Do not park in the marked bike/jogging lane. Amenities: none. Best for: sunrise; swimming; walking. E974 Mokulua Dr., Kailua jPast Kailua Beach Park, heading south.

r Restaurants

Boots & Kimo’s Homestyle Kitchen

$ | AMERICAN | Sometimes you wait an hour for a table here while patrons clamor for the banana pancakes topped with a thick macadamia-nut sauce. At lunch, the signature dish is a plate of pulehu (grilled) ribs. Known for: worth going once for the mac-nut pancakes; more popular than food may warrant overall; no reservations, but quick table turnover. DAverage main: $19 E1020 Keolu Dr., Suite D1, Kailua P808/263–7929 wbootsnkimos.com CClosed Tues. No dinner.

Buzz’s Original Steak House

$$$ | STEAK HOUSE | Virtually unchanged since opening in 1967, this neighborhood institution opposite Kailua Beach Park is filled with the aroma of grilling steaks and plumeria blooms. It doesn’t matter if you’re a bit sandy and beach bedraggled (though bare feet are a no-no, as are tank tops after 4:30 pm)—just find a spot in the cozy maze of rooms; order a steak, a burger, teriyaki chicken, or the fresh fish special. Known for: reservations are essential; the views from the lanai at lunch; excellent fruity beach cocktails, including very strong mai tais. DAverage main: $35 E413 Kawailoa Rd., Kailua P808/261–4661 wbuzzsoriginalsteakhouse.com.

Cinnamon’s Restaurant

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Known for uncommon variations on common breakfast themes, this neighborhood favorite is tucked into a hard-to-find Kailua office park (call for directions). Local-style lunch plates are good, but the main attraction is breakfast, when you don’t want to miss the guava chiffon and red velvet pancakes. (The Waikiki location in the Ilikai Hotel serves dinner, too.) Be prepared to wait. Known for: endless variations on pancakes, eggs Benedict, and waffles; original or macadamia-nut cinnamon rolls (of course); long waits. DAverage main: $19 E315 Uluniu St., Kailua P808/261–8724 wcinnamons808.com CNo dinner.

Kalapawai Cafe & Deli

$$ | ECLECTIC | FAMILY | The Dymond family, two generations of restaurateurs who have shaken up the windward food scene, created this one-stop, green-and-white, Mediterranean-leaning café, wine bar, bakery, and gourmet deli. Come in on your way to the beach for a cup of coffee and bagel, and stop back for a delicious pizza or bruschetta for lunch or a candlelight dinner at night. Known for: signature dishes, including fish and turf options, by night; good coffee and creative sandwiches by day; impressive wine list for such a small spot. DAverage main: $25 E750 Kailua Rd., Kailua P808/262–3354 wkalapawaimarket.com.

Coffee and Quick Bites

HAgnes’ Portuguese Bake Shop

$ | BAKERY | This food truck in the Manuhealii parking lot serves delicious, made-to-order malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts) that are crispy and dark brown on the outside and soft, chewy, and sweet on the inside. They’re also denser than those found at some other bakeries on the island. Known for: authentic malasadas; no-fuss takeout; convenient location. DAverage main: $2 E5 Hoolai St., Kailua jIn the parking lot of Manuhealii across from Kalapawai Cafe P808/284–4963 winstagram.com/agnesbakeshop808 CClosed Sun. and Mon.

Island Snow

$ | ICE CREAM | FAMILY | This hole-in-the-wall has been creating shave ice perfection in its tiny original spot since 1979, but when two young girls named Obama discovered the luscious flavors in 2008, it was really put on the map. A favorite spot for both locals and storied visitors (and these days lots of regular tourists), it makes a mean shave ice, whether you stick with standard flavors like cherry or go for lilikoi (passion fruit) guava with a snowcap on top. Known for: the best shave ice on the windward side; the Obama girls, who grew up on this stuff (look for their photos on the wall); long lines of locals and tourists. DAverage main: $6 E130 Kailua Rd., Kailua P808/263–6339 wislandsnow.com.

n Nightlife

Tap & Barrel

BREWPUBS | Lanikai Brewing Company’s taproom features its island-centric beer, including seasonal varieties that incorporate unusual ingredients like Surinam cherry, mushrooms, and white tea. It also serves Valentina’s wood-fired pizza and sometimes has a food truck out front. In addition to beer, there are spirits from the brewery’s distillery line, house-made sangria, Paradise Ciders, and other sips from which to choose. Kids are welcome, and board games are available for playing. E167 Hamakua Dr., Kailua wwww.lanikaibrewing.com.

b Shopping

HBookends

BOOKS | FAMILY | Shop for gifts or yourself at this cozy independent bookstore, which feels more like a small-town library, welcoming browsers to linger. It sells new and secondhand books, and the children’s section is filled with both books and toys. E600 Kailua Rd., Unit 126, Kailua P808/261–1996 winstagram.com/bookendskailua.

Manuhealii

CLOTHING | For modern and authentic aloha attire made in Hawaii, Manuhealii is your place. The Kailua storefront is one of two physical locations (the other is in Honolulu). The clothes for women, men, and children aren’t inexpensive, but their quality is superb. E5 Hoolai St., Kailua P808/261–9865 wmanuhealii.com.

Kaneohe

6 miles west of Kailua.

The largest community on Oahu’s windward side, Kaneohe (meaning “bamboo man” in Hawaiian) is a sprawling community with malls, car dealerships, and a few worthwhile restaurants. At the base of the Koolau Range, Kaneohe sees a lot more rain than neighboring Kailua and is the greener for it. Two noteworthy sights take advantage of their proximity to the mountains: the Byodo-In Temple and Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden.

Windward Oahu Villages s

Tiny villages—generally consisting of a sign, a store, a beach park, possibly a post office, and not much more—are strung along Kamehameha Highway on the windward side. Each has something to offer. In Waiahole, look for fruit stands and the Waiahole Poi Factory, which is worth a stop for Hawaiian food and their famous poi. In Kaaawa, there’s a convenience store/gas station. In Punaluu, get a plate lunch at Keneke’s, or visit the venerable Chings’ General Store. Hauula has the gallery of fanciful landscape artist Lance Fairly; the Shrimp Shack; Hauula Gift Shop, a clothing shop where sarongs wave like banners; and, at Hauula Kai Shopping Center, Tamura’s Market, with excellent seafood and the last liquor before Mormon-dominated Laie.

s Sights

HByodo-In Temple

TEMPLE | Tucked away in the back of the Valley of the Temples Memorial Park is a replica of the 11th-century temple at Uji in Japan, built in 1963. An impressive 2-ton, carved-wood statue of the Buddha presides inside the main building. Next to the temple are a meditation pavilion and gardens set dramatically against the sheer, green cliffs of the Koolau Mountains. You can ring the 5-foot, 3-ton brass bell for good luck; feed some of the hundreds of koi, ducks, and swans that inhabit the garden’s 2-acre pond (buy fish food at the gift shop); and relax and enjoy the peaceful surroundings. E47-200 Kahekili Hwy., Kaneohe P808/239–8811 wbyodo-in.com A$5.

HHoomaluhia Botanical Garden

GARDEN | FAMILY | The name, which means “a peaceful refuge,” describes the serenity and feeling of endless space you find in this verdant garden framed by the stunning Koolau Range. Its 400 acres contain specimens from such tropical areas as the Americas, Africa, Melanesia, the Philippines, and Hawaii. Not just for the botanist, Hoomaluhia has a 32-acre lake, easy walking trails, and open lawns ideal for picnicking and camping by permit. Families can also take advantage of the park’s catch-and-release tilapia fishing program; free bamboo fishing poles are sometimes available for borrowing at the visitor center. If you see unusually dressed-up visitors, they are likely selfie seekers doing it for the ‘gram. Hoomaluhia is very photogenic; just make sure you’re not blocking the roadways in search of the perfect shot. E45-680 Luluku Rd., Kaneohe P808/233–7323 wwww.honolulu.gov/parks/hbg AFree.

HNuuanu Pali State Wayside

VIEWPOINT | This panoramic perch looks out to expansive views of Windward Oahu—from Kaneohe Bay to a small island off the coast called Mokolii (“little lizard,” also known as Chinaman’s Hat). It was in this region that King Kamehameha I drove defending forces over the edges of the 1,200-foot-high cliffs, thus winning the decisive battle for control of the island in 1795. Temperatures at the summit are several degrees cooler than in warm Waikiki, so bring a jacket along. Hang on tight to any loose possessions, and consider wearing pants; it gets extremely windy at the lookout, which is part of the fun. After arriving in the pay-to-park lot, remove valuables from your car and lock it. Break-ins have occurred here; this wayside is in the most trafficked state park in Hawaii. EPali Hwy., Kaneohe jAt very top of Pali Hwy. wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/oahu AParking $7 per car.

r Restaurants

HHaleiwa Joe’s Haiku Gardens

$$$ | AMERICAN | The Haleiwa location may be the namesake and claim the surf, but this windward-side branch offers knock-’em-dead views and a tiki torch–lit atmosphere after dark along with the friendly vibe and grilled seafood. In addition to surf-and-turf favorites, look for special preparations of each day’s catch, which is delivered straight from the Honolulu Fish Auction. Known for: stunning views of Haiku Gardens; reliable for both seafood and meat; no reservations, so expect long lines for a table. DAverage main: $35 E44-336 Haiku Rd., Kaneohe P808/274–6671 wwww.haleiwajoes.com/kaneohe-menu CNo lunch.

HWaiahole Poi Factory

$ | HAWAIIAN | The historic Waiahole Poi Factory, which made poi for 70 years before serving as an art galley and then a commercial kitchen, returned to its roots back in 2009 and now makes some of the island’s freshest and best-tasting poi. Along with that Hawaiian food staple, you can get plate lunches with other classics like squid luau (a dish with taro leaves and coconut), lomi lomi salmon (pieces of salted salmon mixed with onion and tomatoes), chicken long rice, and laulau (meat or fish wrapped in leaves and cooked); outdoor seating is limited, so it’s good for takeout. Known for: long line at some times, and it closes early at 5 or 6 pm; watching the poi pounders at work; authentic and fresh Hawaiian plate lunches. DAverage main: $15 E48-140 Kamehameha Hwy., Kaneohe P808/239–2222 wwaiaholepoifactory.com CNo dinner.

h Hotels

Paradise Bay Resort

$$ | RESORT | Right on picturesque Kaneohe Bay amid the junglelike fauna of the windward side, this resort offers apartment-style units ranging from cozy studios to spacious two-bedroom suites with breathtaking views of the majestic Koolau Mountains; one stand-alone cottage is in a remote area not generally frequented by tourists. Pros: local, authentic experience; beautiful views over the bay; en suite kitchens or kitchenettes. Cons: remote location not near most other attractions; neighborhood is a bit run-down; rental car a necessity (but parking included in $38 nightly resort fee). DRooms from: $220 E47-039 Lihikai Dr., Kaneohe P808/239–5711 wwww.paradisebayresort.com a46 rooms XNo Meals.

Kaaawa

14 miles north of Kaneohe.

Less a village than a collection of homes, Kaaawa consists of little more than a post office, bus stop, and gas station—bookended by an elementary school and a fire station. Of course, there’s a beach park, too.

s Sights

HKualoa Ranch

FARM/RANCH | FAMILY | Encompassing 4,000 acres, this working ranch about 45 minutes by car from Waikiki offers a wide range of activities—from ATV and horseback tours to zip-lining or expeditions into the valley on an electric bike. The mountains that serve as the backdrop here may seem familiar: the ranch has served as the set for movies such as Jurassic Park and Windtalkers, as well as TV shows like Magnum P.I. and Lost (and you can take a film locations tour). From the grounds, you’ll have a wonderful view of the ocean and Mokolii (Chinaman’s Hat). lYou can drop by the visitor center anytime, but it’s best to book activities and tours two or three days in advance. E49-560 Kamehameha Hwy., Kaaawa P808/237–7321 wwww.kualoa.com ATours and activities from $52.

; Beaches

Kahana Bay Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | Local parents often bring their children here to wade safely in the very shallow, protected waters. This pretty beach cove, surrounded by mountains, has a long arc of sand that is great for walking and a cool, shady grove of tall ironwood and pandanus trees that is ideal for a picnic. An ancient Hawaiian fishpond, which was in use until the 1920s, is visible nearby. Note, though, that the water here is not generally a clear blue due to the runoff from heavy rains in the valley. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: swimming; walking. E52-201 Kamehameha Hwy., Kaaawa jNorth of Kualoa Park.

HKualoa Regional Park

BEACH | Grassy expanses border a long, narrow stretch of sand with spectacular views of Kaneohe Bay and the Koolau Mountains, making Kualoa one of the island’s most beautiful picnic, camping, and beach areas. Dominating the view is an islet called Mokolii, also known as Chinaman’s Hat, which rises 206 feet above the water. You can swim in the shallow areas of this rarely crowded beach year-round. The one drawback is that it’s usually windy here, but the wide-open spaces are ideal for kite flying. Amenities: lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: solitude; swimming. E49-479 Kamehameha Hwy., Kaaawa jNorth of Waiahole.

Laie

10 miles north of Kaaawa, 33 miles north of Honolulu.

Visiting Laie—over an hour by car and a world away from bustling Waikiki and Honolulu—is like taking a trip to another island. Home to a Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints temple and the Mormon-founded Polynesian Cultural Center, Laie is a “dry town,” meaning no alcohol is sold.

s Sights

Polynesian Cultural Center

MUSEUM VILLAGE | FAMILY | Re-created individual villages showcase the lifestyles and traditions of Hawaii, Tahiti, Samoa, Fiji, the Marquesas Islands, New Zealand, and Tonga. In addition, the 42-acre center, which is 35 miles from Waikiki and which was founded in 1963 by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, has restaurants, hosts luau, and demonstrates cultural traditions, such as hula, fire dancing, and ancient ceremonies. The Hukilau Marketplace carries Polynesian handicrafts.

There are multiple packages available, including luau and Ha: Breath of Life show options. Every May, the center hosts the World Fireknife Championships, an event that draws the top fireknife dance performers from around the world. Get tickets for that event in advance. lIf you’re staying in Honolulu, see the center as part of a van tour so you won’t have to drive home late at night after the two-hour evening show. E55-370 Kamehameha Hwy., Laie P800/367–7060 wwww.polynesia.com AFrom $120 CClosed Sun. and Wed.

h Hotels

Courtyard by Marriott Oahu North Shore

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | This property offers reliable and affordable accommodations close to the Polynesian Cultural Center and a short drive to some of the North Shore’s most iconic beaches and surfing spots. Pros: good bet for North Shore exploring; reliable, modern, and clean; near the beach. Cons: a long drive to the rest of Oahu’s attractions; no alcohol served in the hotel or nearby establishments; a car is needed, and parking is not free. DRooms from: $292 E55-400 Kamehameha Hwy., Laie P808/293–4900 wmarriott.com a144 rooms XNo Meals.

Activities and Tours

Although much is written about the water surrounding this little rock known as Oahu, there is as much to be said for the rock itself. It’s a wonder of nature, thrust from the ocean floor thousands of millennia ago by a volcanic hot spot that is still spitting out islands today.

Hawaii is the most remote island chain on Earth, with creatures and plants that can be seen here and nowhere else. And there are dozens of ways for you to check them all out.

From the air, you can peer down into nooks and crannies in the mountains—where cars cannot reach and hikers don’t dare to venture. Whether flitting here and there amid a helicopter’s rush and roar or sailing by in the silence of a glider’s reverie, you glimpse sights that few have experienced. Or, if you would rather, take a step back in time and take off from the waters of Keehi Lagoon in a World War II–era seaplane. Follow the flight path flown by the Japanese Zeros as they attempted to destroy Pearl Harbor and the American spirit.

If you prefer to stay grounded, Oahu is covered in hiking trails that traverse everything from tropical rain forest to arid desert. Even when in the bustling city of Honolulu, you are but minutes from hidden waterfalls and bamboo forests. Out west, you can wander a dusty path that has long since given up its ability to accommodate cars but is perfect for hikers. You can admire sea arches and gape at caves opened by the rock slides that closed the road. You can also camp out on many of these treks and beaches.

If somewhat less rugged and less vigorous exploration is more your style, how about letting horses do your dirty work? You can ride them on the beaches and in the valleys, checking out ancient holy sites, movie sets, and brilliant vistas.

Finally, there is the ancient sport of Scotland. Why merely hike into the rain forest when you can slice a 280-yard drive through it and then hunt for your Titleist in the bushy leaves instead? Almost 40 courses cover this tiny expanse, ranging from the target jungle golf of the Royal Hawaiian Golf Club to the pro-style links of Turtle Bay. There is no off-season in the tropics, and no one here knows your real handicap.

Aerial Tours

Taking an aerial tour of the Islands opens up a world of perspective. Look down from the sky at the outline of the USS Arizona, where it lies in its final resting place below the waters of Pearl Harbor, or get a glimpse of the vast carved expanse of a volcanic crater—here are views only seen by an “eye in the sky.” Don’t forget your camera.

zAll helicopter tour companies in Hawaii are under increasing legislative and regulatory scrutiny due to a number of fatal accidents since 2018, so it’s possible that they will undergo further regulations and limitations in the future.

Blue Hawaiian Helicopters

FLIGHTSEEING | This company stakes its claim as Hawaii’s largest helicopter operation, with tours on all the major Islands (including Maui) and more than two dozen choppers in its fleet. The 45-minute Oahu tour seats up to six passengers and includes narration from your friendly pilot along with sweeping views of Waikiki, the beautiful windward coast, and the North Shore. If you like to see the world from above or are just pinched for time and want to get a quick overview of the whole island without renting a car, this is the way to go. Discounts are available if you book online in advance. E99 Kaulele Pl., Airport Area P808/745–2583 wwww.bluehawaiian.com AFrom $379.

Honolulu Soaring – The Original Glider Rides

FLIGHTSEEING |”Mr. Bill” has been offering piloted glider (sailplane) rides over the northwest end of Oahu’s North Shore since 1970. Scenic rides for one or two passengers are in sleek, bubble-top, motorless aircraft with aerial views of mountains, shoreline, coral pools, windsurfing sails, and, in winter, humpback whales. Seeking more thrills? You can also take a more acrobatic ride or take control yourself in a mini lesson. Flights run 15 minutes to an hour. The company’s online booking platform shows days they are flying. Advance reservations are recommended. EKawaihapai Airfield, 69-132 Farrington Hwy., Waialua P808/637–0207 Imrbill@hawaii.rr.com wwww.honolulusoaring.com AFrom $85.

HMagnum Helicopters

FLIGHTSEEING | For a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, this Magnum P.I., doors-off helicopter tour offers sweeping views of Keehi Lagoon through urban Honolulu and the harbor, including the Aloha Tower and Waikiki Beach. Soar past and over Diamond Head Crater and up the scenic coast by Makapuu Lighthouse and Sandy Beach and over Windward Oahu’s iconic Lanikai and Kailua beaches, complete with wind in your hair and jaw-dropping views. The breathtaking finale takes you inland to Sacred Falls, known for its stunning, 1,000-foot drop and its starring role in Jurassic Park, before returning to the airport via North Shore surf spots and a bird’s-eye view of Pearl Harbor and the USS Arizona Memorial. If you’re looking for more thrill (or a cool proposal site), opt for the exclusive mountaintop landing. And if water is your thing, your Navy SEAL guide will join you in plunging into the ocean for some scuba diving. lIf carrying a phone or camera on the tour, bring a strap to keep it closely secured. E130 Iolana Pl., Airport Area P808/833–4354 wwww.magnumhelicopters.com AFrom $350.

Paradise Helicopters

FLIGHTSEEING | Paradise offers tours on several islands, with Oahu tours departing from two helipads: Kalaeloa (near the Ko Olina resorts on the west side) and Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore. Kalaeloa options range from a one-hour trip over Diamond Head to a two-hour island circle (daytime and sunset) to specialized trips that focus on World War II history. Turtle Bay choices include several 1½-hour North Shore adventures, with vistas of beaches as well as inland waterfalls. EHonolulu P866/300–2294 wparadisecopters.com AFrom $295.

Boat Tours and Charters

Being on the water can be the best way to enjoy the Islands. Whether you want to see the fish in action or experience how they taste, there is a tour for you. For a sailing experience, you need go no farther than the beach in front of your Waikiki hotel. Strung along the sand are several catamarans that offer one-hour rides during the day (about $35) and 90-minute sunset sails ($49–$120). lFeel free to haggle, especially with the smaller boats.

Some operators provide drinks for free, some charge for them, and some let you pack your own, so keep that in mind when pricing the ride. Or choose to go the ultraluxe route and charter a boat for a day or week. These run from less than $100 per person per day to more than $1,000. FSee also: Deep-Sea Fishing.

Hawaii Nautical

BOATING | With two locations—one in Waikiki and one on the Waianae coast—this outfitter offers a wide variety of cruise options, including guaranteed-sighting dolphin and whale-watching (in season), gourmet dinners, lunches, snorkeling, and sunset viewing. Three-hour cruises, including lunch and two drinks, depart from the Kewalo Basin Harbor just outside Waikiki. (The company’s Port Waikiki Cruises sail from the Hilton Pier off the Hilton Hawaiian Village in Waikiki.) For those interested in leaving from the Waianae coast on the leeward side, snorkel tours are available from the Waianae Boat Harbor on Farrington Highway (E85-471 Farrington Hwy.). Prices include all gear, food, and two alcoholic beverages. The dock in the Waianae Boat Harbor is a little more out of the way, but this is a much more luxurious option than what is offered in Waikiki. Both morning and afternoon snorkel tours include stops for observing dolphins from the boat and a visit to a snorkel spot well populated with fish. All gear, snacks, sandwiches, and two alcoholic beverages make for a more complete experience. Pickup in Ko Olina is free. EKewalo Basin Harbor, 1125 Ala Moana Blvd., Waikiki P808/234–7245 wwww.hawaiinautical.com AFrom $75.

Maitai Catamaran

BOATING | Taking off from the stretch of sand between the Sheraton Waikiki and the Halekulani, this 44-foot catamaran is the fastest and sleekest on the beach. There are a variety of tours, including a sunset sail, snorkel excursion, or even private sailings. If you have a need for speed and want a more upscale experience, this is the boat for you. ESheraton Waikiki Beach Resort, 2255 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki jOn beach behind hotel P808/922–5665, 800/462–7975 wwww.maitaicatamaran.net AFrom $49.

Star of Honolulu Cruises

BOATING | FAMILY | Founded in 1957, this company anchors Oahu’s dinner-cruise market with its 232-foot Star of Honolulu, featuring four floors of walk-around decks and a 60-foot-high observation deck. Enjoy views, live entertainment, cocktails, and dinner. The company also offers several cruise experiences—from casual to luxury—to fit your needs and whims. On some cruises you can even learn how to string lei, play ukulele, or dance hula. Whale-watching cruises are another option. Transportation from all hotels on the island can be arranged. E1 Aloha Tower Dr., Pier 8, Downtown P808/983–7730 wstarofhonolulu.com AFrom $117.

Tradewind Charters

BOATING | This company’s half-day private excursions can include sailing, snorkeling, reef fishing, sunset dinner cruises, sunrise mimosa ventures, whale-watching, and even spa treatments, all on luxury yachts that can accommodate 2 to 49 people. Traveling on these vessels not only gets you away from the crowds, but also gives you the opportunity to take the helm if you wish. The cruises may include snorkeling at an exclusive anchorage, as well as hands-on snorkeling and sailing instruction. All charters are for the full ship. EKewalo Basin Harbor, 1125 Ala Moana Blvd., Ala Moana P808/227–4956, 800/664–5493 wwww.tradewindcharters.com AFrom $495.

Bodyboarding and Bodysurfing

Bodyboarding (or sponging) has long been a popular alternative to surfing for a couple of reasons. First, the start-up cost is much less—a usable board can be purchased for $30–$40 or rented on the beach for $5 an hour to about $20 for up to three hours. Second, it’s a whole lot easier to ride a bodyboard than a surfboard. All you have to do is paddle out to the waves, then turn toward the beach as the wave approaches and kick like crazy.

Most grocery and convenience stores sell bodyboards. Though these boards don’t compare to what the pros use, beginners won’t notice a difference in how they handle on smaller waves. Though they are not absolutely necessary for bodyboarding, fins do give you a tremendous advantage when you’re paddling. If you plan to go out into bigger surf, get a leash, which reduces the chance you’ll lose your board. The smaller, sturdier versions of dive fins used for bodyboarding sell for $25–$60 at surf and sporting-goods stores. Most beach stands don’t rent fins with the boards, so if you want them, you’ll probably need to buy them.

Bodysurfing requires far less equipment—just a pair of swim fins with heel straps—but it can be a lot more challenging to master. Typically, surf breaks that are good for bodyboarding are good for bodysurfing.

If the direction of the current or dangers of the break are not readily apparent to you, don’t hesitate to ask a lifeguard for advice.

BEST SPOTS

Bodyboarding and bodysurfing can be done anywhere you find waves, but due to the paddling advantage surfers have over bodyboarders, it’s usually more fun to go to surf breaks exclusively for bodyboarding. FFor more information on Oahu beaches, see the individual regions.

Bellows Beach. On Oahu’s windward side, Bellows Field Beach Park has shallow waters and a consistent break that makes it an ideal spot for bodyboarders and bodysurfers. (Surfing isn’t allowed between the two lifeguard towers.) But take note: the Portuguese man-of-war, a blue jellyfishlike invertebrate that delivers painful and powerful stings, is often seen here. E41-043 Kalanianaole Hwy., Waimanalo.

Kuhio Beach. This beach park offers an easy spot for first-timers to check out the action. A break near the large pedestrian walkway called Kapahulu Groin is the quintessential bodyboarding spot. The soft, rolling waves make it perfect for beginners. Even during summer’s south swells, it’s relatively tame because of the outer reefs. EWaikiki Beach, between Moana Surfrider, a Westin Resort and Kapahulu Groin, Honolulu.

Makapuu Beach. With its extended waves, this beach park on the windward side is a dream, though a somewhat challenging one. If you’re a little more timid, go to the far end of the beach to Keiki’s, where the waves are mellowed by Makapuu Point. Although the main break at Makapuu is much less dangerous than that at Sandy Beach, mind the ocean floor—the sands are always shifting, sometimes exposing coral heads and rocks. Always check (or ask lifeguards about) the currents, which can be strong. E41-095 Kalanianaole Hwy., across from Sea Life Park, Waimanalo.

Sandy Beach. The best spot for advanced bodyboarding is Sandy Beach on Oahu’s eastern shore. That said, even when the shore break here is small, it can be extremely dangerous. As lifeguards will attest, there are more neck injuries suffered here than at any other surf break in the United States. It’s awesome for the advanced, but know its danger before paddling out. E8800 Kalanianaole Hwy., 2 miles east of Hanauma Bay, Honolulu.

Waimanalo Beach. With the longest sand beach on Oahu’s windward side, Waimanalo Bay Beach Park has a shallow sandbar at the water’s edge that provides good waves for bodyboarding and bodysurfing. It’s an ideal break for novices because of its soft waves. Like Walls in Waikiki, this area is protected by an outer reef. And like Bellows, it’s favored by the dangerous Portuguese man-of-war. EAloiloi St., Waimanalo.

EQUIPMENT

The more than 30 rental spots along Waikiki Beach all offer basically the same prices. But if you plan to bodyboard for more than just an hour or so, consider buying an inexpensive board for $30–$40 at an ABC Store—there are almost 40 in the Waikiki area—and giving it to a kid at the end of your vacation. It will be more cost-effective for you, and you’ll be passing along some aloha spirit in the process.

Deep-Sea Fishing

Fishing isn’t just a sport in Hawaii—it’s a way of life. A number of charter boats with experienced crews can take you on a sportfishing adventure throughout the year. Sure, the bigger yellowfin tuna (ahi) are generally caught in summer, and the coveted spearfish are more frequent in winter, but you can still hook them any day of the year. Plus, the dolphinfish (mahi mahi), wahoo (ono), and skipjacks, not to mention the king—Pacific blue marlin—are ripe for the picking on any given day. The largest Pacific blue marlin ever caught, weighing in at 1,805 pounds, was reeled in along Oahu’s coast.

When choosing a fishing boat in the Islands, look for veteran captains with decades of experience. Better yet, find those who care about Hawaii’s fragile marine environment. Many captains now tag and release their catches to preserve the state’s fishing grounds. Also remember that open ocean fishing can be challenging, so consider the ability and interest of everyone in your group before booking.

The general rule for the catch is an even split with the crew. Unfortunately, there are no “freeze-and-ship” providers in the state, so unless you plan to eat the fish while you’re here, you’ll probably want to leave it with the boat. Most boats do offer mounting services for trophy fish; ask your captain.

Prices vary greatly, but expect to pay from around $65 per person for a spot on a boat with more than 20 people to $2,000 for an overnight trip for up to six people. Besides the gift of fish, a gratuity of 10%–20% is standard, but use your own discretion based on the overall experience.

BOATS AND CHARTERS

Maggie Joe Sport Fishing

FISHING | The oldest sportfishing company on Oahu boasts landing one of the largest marlins ever caught out of Kewalo Basin. It offers a variety of offshore fishing packages, including exclusive or shared charters, and has a fleet of three boats. Half-day exclusives on the 41-foot Sea Hawk or the 38-foot Ruckus can accommodate up to six people and are the cheapest options for daytime fishing. The 53-foot Maggie Joe embarks on three-quarter- or full-day sails; can accommodate up to 15 anglers; and is equipped with air-conditioned cabins, hot showers, and cutting-edge gear. A marine taxidermist can mount the monster you reel in. EKewalo Basin, 1025 Ala Moana Blvd., Ala Moana P808/591–8888 wwww.maggiejoe.com AFrom $250.

Magic Sport Fishing

FISHING | This 50-foot Pacifica fishing yacht, aptly named Magic, boasts a slew of sportfishing records, including some of the largest marlins caught in local tournaments and the most mahi mahi hooked during a one-day charter. The yacht, which can accommodate up to six passengers for both shared or full charters, is very comfortable, with air-conditioning, a cozy seating area, two heads (bathrooms), private cabins, and a smooth ride thanks to twin diesel engines. EKewalo Basin Harbor, 1125 Ala Moana Blvd., Slip G, Ala Moana P808/596–2998 wwww.magicsportfishing.com AFrom $220 per person for a shared charter; from $1,190 for a private charter.

Golf

Unlike elsewhere in Hawaii, most of Oahu’s golf courses aren’t associated with hotels and resorts. In fact, of the island’s more than three dozen courses, only five are tied to lodging, and none is in the tourist hub of Waikiki. The courses do offer some of the most spectacular views and vistas around the island, and several are quite challenging.

Although municipal courses are a good choice for budget-conscious golfers, they’re more crowded than (and not always as well maintained as) private courses. Your best bet is to call the day you want to play and inquire about walk-on availability. Green fees are standard at city courses: walking rate $86 for visitors, riding carts $26 for 18 holes, pull carts $4.

Green fees listed here are the highest course rates per round on weekdays and weekends for U.S. residents. (Some courses charge non–U.S. residents higher prices.) Discounts are often available for resort guests and for those who book tee times online. Twilight fees are usually offered.

WAIKIKI

Ala Wai Golf Course

GOLF | Just across the Ala Wai Canal from Waikiki, this municipal golf course is said to host more rounds than any other U.S. course—up to 500 per day. Not that it’s a great course, just really convenient. The best bet for a visitor is to show up and expect to wait at least an hour or call up to three days in advance for a tee time. (The jury is out on whether online reservations have made securing a time any easier.)

The course itself is flat, though Robin Nelson did some redesign work in the 1990s, adding mounding, trees, and a lake. The Ala Wai Canal comes into play on several holes on the back nine, including the treacherous 18th. There’s also an on-site restaurant and bar, not fancy but they do the trick. E404 Kapahulu Ave., Waikiki P808/207– 6856 for reservations wwww8.honolulu.gov/des/ala-wai-golf-course A$66 J18 holes, 5861 yards, par 70.

NORTH SHORE

Turtle Bay Resort

GOLF | When the Lazarus of golf courses, the Fazio Course (George Fazio, 1971), rose from the dead in 2002, Turtle Bay on Oahu’s rugged North Shore became a premier golf destination. Two holes had been plowed under when the Palmer Course (Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay, 1992) was built, while the other seven lay fallow, and the front nine remained open. Then new owners re-created holes 13 and 14 using Fazio’s original plans, and the Fazio became whole again. At the time of this writing, the Fazio Course is temporarily closed, and the gem at Turtle Bay is the Palmer. The front nine is mostly open as it skirts Punahoolapa Marsh, a nature sanctuary, while the back nine plunges into the wetlands and winds along the coast. The short par-4 17th runs along the rocky shore, with a diabolical string of bunkers cutting diagonally across the fairway from tee to green. Carts are required and are included in the green fee. E57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku P808/293–8574 wwww.turtlebayresort.com A$220 JPalmer Course: 18 holes, 7200 yards, par 72.

WEST (LEEWARD) OAHU

Coral Creek Golf Course

GOLF | On the Ewa Plain, 4 miles inland, this course is cut from ancient coral left from days long ago when this area was still underwater. Robin Nelson (1999) did some of his best work in making use of the coral—and of some dynamite—blasting out portions to create dramatic lakes and tee and green sites. They could just as easily call it Coral Cliffs because of the 30- to 40-foot cliffs Nelson created. They include the par-3 10th green’s grotto and waterfall and the vertical drop-off on the right side of the par-4 18th green. An ancient creek meanders across the course, but there’s not much water, just enough to be a babbling nuisance. Carts are required and are included in the green fee. E91-1111 Geiger Rd., Ewa Beach P808/441–4653 wwww.coralcreekgolfhawaii.com A$80 for 9 holes, $175 for 18 holes J18 holes, 6347 yards, par 72.

Ko Olina Golf Club

GOLF | Hawaii’s golden age of golf-course architecture came to Oahu when Ko Olina Golf Club opened in 1989. Ted Robinson, king of the water features, went splash-happy here, creating nine lakes that come into play on eight holes, including the par-3 12th, where you reach the tee by driving behind a Disney-like waterfall. Tactically, though, the most dramatic hole is the par-4 18th, where the approach is a minimum 120 yards across a lake to a two-tiered green guarded on the left by a cascading waterfall. Today Ko Olina has matured into one of Hawaii’s top courses.

You can niggle about routing issues—the first three holes play into the trade winds (and the morning sun), as do two consecutive par 5s on the back nine play—but Robinson does enough solid design to make those of passing concern. The website offers a nice webcam and a lot of information so you can familiarize yourself with the course and its offerings. lThe course provides free transportation from Waikiki hotels. E92-1220 Aliinui Dr., Ko Olina P808/676–5300 wkoolinagolf.com A$255 J18 holes, 6432 yards, par 72.

CENTRAL OAHU

Royal Kunia Country Club

GOLF | At one point, the PGA Tour considered buying the Royal Kunia Country Club and hosting the Sony Open here. It’s that good. Robin Nelson’s eye for natural sight lines and his dexterity with water features add to the visual pleasure. lEvery hole offers fabulous views including Diamond Head, Pearl Harbor, and the nearby Waianae Mountains. Carts are required and are included in the green fee. E94-1509 Anonui St., Waipahu P808/688–9222 wwww.royalkuniacc.com A$150 J18 holes, 6507 yards, par 72.

Waikele Country Club

GOLF | Outlet stores are not the only draw in Waikele. The adjacent, daily-fee golf course offers a private club–like atmosphere and a terrific Ted Robinson (1992) layout. Robinson’s water features are less distinctive here but define the short par-4 4th hole—with a lake running down the left side of the fairway and guarding the green—and the par-3 17th, which plays across a lake. The par-4 18th is a terrific closing hole, with a lake lurking on the right side of the green. Carts are required and are included in the green fee. E94-200 Paioa Pl., Waipahu P808/676–9000 wwww.golfwaikele.com A$185 J18 holes, 6261 yards, par 72.

HAWAII KAI

Hawaii Kai Golf Course

GOLF | The Championship Golf Course (William F. Bell, 1973) winds through a Honolulu suburb at the foot of Koko Crater. Homes (and the liability of a broken window) come into play on many holes, but they are offset by views of the Pacific and a crafty routing of holes. With several lakes, lots of trees, and bunkers in all the wrong places, Hawaii Kai really is a “championship” golf course, especially when the trade winds howl. Green fees for this course include a mandatory cart. The Executive Course (1962), a par-54 track, is the first of only three courses in Hawaii built by Robert Trent Jones Sr. Although a few changes have been made to his original design, the usual Jones attributes are here, including raised greens and lots of risk-reward options. E8902 Kalanianaole Hwy. P808/395–2358 whawaiikaigolf.com AChampionship Course: $165 (twilight $125); Executive Course: $65 JChampionship Course: 18 holes, 6207 yards, par 72. Executive Course: 18 holes, 2196 yards, par 54.

WINDWARD (EAST) OAHU

Olomana Golf Links

GOLF | Bob and Robert L. Baldock are the architects of record for this layout, but so much has changed since it opened in 1969 that they would recognize little of it. A turf specialist was brought in to improve fairways and greens, tees were rebuilt, new bunkers were added, and mangroves were cut back to make better use of natural wetlands. But what really puts Olomana on the map is that this is where wunderkind Michelle Wie West learned the game. A cart is required at this course and is included in the green fee. E41-1801 Kalanianaole Hwy. P808/259–7926 wwww.olomanalinks.com A$90 J18 holes, 6306 yards, par 72.

HRoyal Hawaiian Golf Club

GOLF | In the cool, lush Maunawili Valley, Pete and Perry Dye (1993) created what can only be called target jungle golf. In other words, the rough is usually dense jungle, and you may not hit a driver on three of the four par 5s, or several par 4s, including the perilous 18th that plays off a cliff to a narrow green protected by a creek. It’s a jungle out there, so don’t be shocked by mud or rain. Mount Olomana’s twin peaks tower over the course. At the time of this writing, the driving range and restaurant are closed until further notice. lThe back nine wanders deep into the valley and includes an island green (par-3 11th) and perhaps the loveliest inland hole in Hawaii (par-4 12th). E770 Auloa Rd., at Luana Hills Rd. P808/262–2139 wroyalhawaiiangc.com A$165 J18 holes, 5541 yards, par 72.

Hiking

The trails of Oahu cover a full spectrum of environments: desert walks through cactus, slippery paths through bamboo-filled rain forest, and scrambling rock climbs up ancient volcanic calderas. Hikes are generally on the shorter side, with many trails that won’t take you more than half a day. In addition, many of the prime hikes are within 10 minutes of downtown Waikiki, meaning that you won’t have to spend your whole day getting back to nature.

When choosing hiking trails, be realistic about your ability and that of your companions. Some of the best vistas come at the end of a steep, often treacherous climb, while others pose heat exhaustion and other issues. Always hike with plenty of water, a charged phone, and lots of time and patience.

BEST SPOTS

HDiamond Head State Monument

HIKING & WALKING | Climbing Diamond Head is high on the list of things to do on Oahu. It’s a moderately easy hike if you’re in good physical condition, but be prepared to climb many stairs along the way, particularly at the top, when you may be most tired. Also be sure to bring a water bottle, because it’s hot and dry. Only a mile up, a clearly marked trail with handrails scales the inside of this extinct volcano. At the top, the fabled final 99 steps take you up to the pillbox overlooking the Pacific Ocean and Honolulu. It’s a breathtaking view and a lot cheaper than taking a helicopter ride for the same photo op. Last entry for hikers is 4:30 pm. lVisitors must now make a reservation (up to 30 days in advance; reserve early as this is very popular) and pay online to do the hike. EDiamond Head Rd. at 18th Ave., Diamond Head jEnter on east side of crater; there’s limited parking inside, so most park on street and walk in P808/587–0300 wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/oahu/diamond-head-state-monument A$5 per person, $10 to park.

HKaena Point Trail

HIKING & WALKING | Kaena Point is one of the island’s last easily accessible pockets of nature left largely untouched. The state protects nearly 60 acres of land at the point, previously as a nature preserve and now as an ecosystem restoration project for endangered and protected coastal plants and seabirds. The uneven 5-mile trail around the point can be accessed from two locations—Keawaula Beach (aka Yokohama Bay) at the end of Farrington Highway on Oahu’s western coastline, or Mokuleia at the same highway’s northern coast endpoint. Both entry points are on the same road, but the trail divides the two sides, so there’s no way to drive all the way around. It’s a rugged coastline hike without much shade, so bring water and sunscreen. (Or, better yet, start early!) lKeep a lookout for the Laysan albatrosses. These enormous birds may come in for a closer look at you, too. E81-780 Farrington Hwy., Waianae jTake Farrington Hwy. to its end at Yokohama. Hike in on old 4x4 trail wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/hiking/oahu/kaena-point-trail.

HManoa Falls Trail

HIKING & WALKING | Travel up into the valley beyond Honolulu to make the Manoa Falls hike. Though only a mile long, this well-trafficked path, with an estimated 100,000 visitors a year, passes through so many different ecosystems that you feel as if you’re in an arboretum—and you’re not far off. The beautiful Lyon Arboretum is right near the trailhead, if you want to make another stop. Walk among the elephant ear (ape) plants, ruddy fir trees, and a bamboo forest straight out of China. At the top is a 150-foot waterfall, which can be an impressive cascade or, if rains have been light, little more than a trickle, but this hike is more about the journey than the destination. Bring mosquito repellent because they grow ‘em big up here. The trail can get muddy and slippery after it rains, so plan accordingly. E3998 Manoa Rd., Manoa jWest Manoa Rd. is behind Manoa Valley in Paradise Park. Take West Manoa Rd. to end, park on side of road or in parking lot for a small fee, follow trail signs whawaiitrails.ehawaii.gov/trails/#.

GUIDES

North Shore Eco Tours

HIKING & WALKING | Native Hawaiians own and operate this business, the only one allowed to lead guided small-group adventures in private conservation lands. This group gets you out in nature and up close with the land and its history. Options range from 2- and 3½-mile round-trip hikes to pools and waterfalls (lunch included) to an off-road expedition in all-terrain vehicles. Community service opportunities are also an option. Excursions have minimum age requirements for children. The pickup point for hikes is the North Shore Marketplace in Haleiwa town; off-road tours begin in Waimea Valley. ENorth Shore Marketplace, 56-250 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa P877/521–4453 wwww.northshoreecotours.com AFrom $95.

Horseback Riding

A great way to see the island is atop a horse, leaving the direction to the pack while you drink in the views of mountains or the ocean.

Gunstock Ranch

HORSEBACK RIDING | FAMILY | This working cattle ranch encompasses nearly 800 acres on the northeastern shore, in the foothills of the Koolau Mountains. It reflects the country life of Hawaii in its offerings, including eco-tours, tree plantings, and off-road adventures as well as trail rides. Choose among 5 to 10 small-group guided trail rides a day (1–2½ hours, or longer) for riders of all skill levels. Rides are designed to replicate the experience of the paniolo, or Hawaiian cowboy. Some climb high enough to view (on clear days) 30 miles of coastline—sometimes as far as Maui and Molokai. The ranch also offers private 30-minute horse experiences for ages two to seven, private and group advanced trail rides, and private romantic tours for couple that include picnics. Reservations are required. E56-250 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku j2 miles north of the Polynesian Cultural Center, between Laie and Kahuku P808/341–3995 wgunstockranch.com ATrail rides from $99.

Kualoa Ranch

HORSEBACK RIDING | FAMILY | This 4,000-acre working ranch across from Kualoa Beach Park offers two-hour trail rides in the breathtaking Kaaawa Valley, which was the site of such movie back lots as Jurassic Park, Godzilla, and 50 First Dates, as well as numerous television shows, including Lost. Kualoa has other activities—bus, boat, and Jeep tours; electric mountain bike tours; kayak adventure tours; ATV trail rides; canopy zip line tours; and children’s activities—that may be combined for full-day package rates. The minimum age for horseback rides is 10. E49-479 Kamehameha Hwy., Kaneohe P800/231–7321, 808/237–7321 wwww.kualoa.com ATrail rides $145.

Turtle Bay Stables

HORSEBACK RIDING | FAMILY | Trail rides follow the 12-mile-long coastline and even step out onto sandy beaches fronting this luxe resort on Oahu’s fabled North Shore. The stables here are part of the resort but can be utilized by nonguests, and the sunset ride is a must. Private rides, group rides, and educational (horsemanship) classes are among the many options. Children ages 7 and up are allowed. A basic trail ride lasts 45 minutes and visits filming sites for ABC’s Lost and the film Pirates of the Caribbean. ETurtle Bay Resort, 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku P808/293–6024 wturtlebayresort.com AFrom $100.

Kayaking

Kayaking is an easy way, even for novices, to explore the ocean—and Oahu’s natural beauty—without much effort or skill. It offers a vantage point not afforded by swimming or surfing and a workout you won’t get lounging on a catamaran. The ability to travel long distances can also get you into trouble. lExperts agree that rookies should stay on the windward side. Their reasoning is simple: if you get tired, break or lose an oar, or just plain pass out, the onshore winds will eventually blow you back to the beach. The same cannot be said for breezes off the North Shore and West Oahu.

Kayaks are specialized: some are suited for riding waves while others are designed for traveling long distances. Your outfitter can address your needs depending on your skill level, leading to a more enjoyable—and safer—experience. Expect to pay from $35 for a half-day single rental; guided kayak tours are also available. Tandem kayaks are an option for sharing your adventure with a friend. Some kayaking outfitters also rent stand-up paddleboards. FSee also: Stand-Up Paddleboarding.

BEST SPOTS

Bellows Field Beach Park, near Waimanalo Town Center on the windward side, and Mokuleia Beach Park, across from Kawaihapai Airfield (formerly Dillingham Airfield) on the North Shore, are two great spots to try surf kayaking. Hard-to-reach breaks, the ones that surfers exhaust themselves trying to reach, are easily accessed by kayak. The buoyancy of the kayak also lets you catch the wave earlier and get out in front of the white wash. If you’re green, stick to Bellows with those onshore winds. Also, you don’t want to be catching waves where the surfers are (in Waikiki, however, pretty much anything goes).

Because of its calm waters and onshore winds, Lanikai Beach, tucked away in a windward side residential area, is popular with amateur kayakers. More adventurous paddlers can head to the Mokulua Islands, two islets less than a mile from the beach. You can land on Moku Nui, which has surf breaks and small beaches great for picnicking. Take a dip in Queen’s Bath, a small saltwater swimming hole. Take care to not venture onto the back side of the islets, where waves can create dangers.

For something a little different, try Windward Oahu’s Kahana Stream, which empties into the ocean at Kahana Bay Beach Park. The riverlike stream may not have the blue water of the ocean, but the majestic Koolau Mountains, with waterfalls during rainy months, make for a picturesque backdrop. It’s a short jaunt, about 2 miles round-trip from the beach. Bring mosquito repellent.

EQUIPMENT, LESSONS, AND TOURS

Go Bananas Kayaks

KAYAKING | At the island’s largest outfitter, staffers make sure that you rent the appropriate kayak for your abilities, and the company can also outfit your rental car with soft racks (included in the rental fee) to transport your boat to the beach. You can rent either a single or a double kayak. The store also carries clothing and kayaking accessories and rents stand-up paddleboards. E799 Kapahulu Ave., Kapahulu P808/737–9514 wgobananaskayaks.com AFrom $35.

Kailua Beach Adventures

KAYAKING | FAMILY | One of the best places for beginners to kayak is Kailua Beach, and this outfitter has an ideal location just across the street from it. The company offers two- and five-hour guided kayak tours (the longer tour includes lunch, time for kayaking, and time for the beach). More adventurous visitors can rent a kayak (double, single, or triple for a half or full day), take it out onto the beach, and venture to the Mokulua Islands off Lanikai. Other rental options include snorkeling equipment, stand-up paddleboards, and bikes. Discounts are given if booked online. EKailua Beach Shopping Center, 130 Kailua Rd., Kailua P808/262–2555 wwww.kailuasailboards.com ARentals from $69.

Scuba Diving

Not all of Hawaii’s beauty is above water. What lurks below can be just as magnificent. Although snorkeling provides adequate access to this underwater world, nothing gives you the freedom—or depth, quite literally—as scuba. The diving on Oahu is comparable with any you might do in the tropics, but its uniqueness comes from the isolated environment of the Islands. There are literally hundreds of species of fish and other marine life that you can find only in this chain. In fact, about 25% of Hawaii’s marine life can be seen here only—nowhere else in the world. Adding to the singularity of diving off Oahu is the human history of the region. Military activities and tragedies of the 20th century filled the waters surrounding Oahu with wreckage that the ocean creatures have since turned into their homes.

Although instructors certified to license you in scuba are plentiful in the Islands, it’s best to get your PADI certification before coming, as a week of classes may be a bit of a commitment on a short vacation. Expect to pay around $150 for a two-tank boat dive (provided that you are certified; remember to bring your paperwork). lYou can go on short, shallow introductory dives without the certification, but the best dives require it and cost a bit more.

BEST SPOTS

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve. On Oahu’s southeast shore, about a 30-minute drive east of Waikiki, this preserve is home to more than 250 different species of fish, a quarter of which can be found nowhere else. While it’s beloved for snorkeling, this volcanic crater bay is also one of the state’s most popular dive sites. It’s a long walk from the parking lot to the beach—even longer lugging equipment—so consider hooking up with a licensed operator. If you go on your own, make the required reservation (they sell out quickly) and pay in advance; see whonolulu.gov/parks-hbay/home. Preservation efforts have aided the bay’s delicate ecosystem, so expect to see various butterfly fish, surgeonfish, tangs, parrotfish, and endangered Hawaiian sea turtles. E7455 Kalanianaole Hwy., Hawaii Kai P808/768–6861 A$25 per person and $3 parking.

Mahi Wreck. Hawaii’s waters are littered with shipwrecks, but one of the most intact and accessible is this 165-foot minesweeper that was sunk in 1982 off the leeward coast. It lies upright in about 90 feet of calm, clear water, encrusted in coral and patrolled by white-spotted eagle rays and millet-seed butterfly fish. The wreck also serves as an artificial reef for such Hawaii aquatic residents as blue-striped snappers, puffer fish, lionfish, moray eels, and octopuses. Visibility averages about 100 feet, making this one of the most popular dives on the island. EWaianae.

Maunalua Bay. Stretching about 7 miles, from Portlock Point to Black Point, and teeming with marine life, this bay has several accessible dive sites of varying difficulty. The shallow-water Turtle Canyon is home to endangered Hawaiian green sea turtles. Fantasy Reef is another shallow dive, with three plateaus of volcanic rock lined with coral that is home to fish, eels, and sea turtles. In about 85 feet of water, Baby Barge is an easy-to-access sunken vessel encrusted in coral. An advanced dive, the wreck of a Vought F4U Corsair attracts garden eels and stingrays. ESoutheast Oahu.

100 Foot Hole. Once an ancient Hawaiian fishing ground reserved for royalty, this cluster of volcanic boulders, which is accessible from shore, features ledges, caves, and a large, open-ended cavern perfect for diving. The spot attracts octopuses, manta rays, and the occasional white-tip shark. EOff Diamond Head, Honolulu.

Shark’s Cove. Oahu’s best shore dive is accessible only during the summer months. Shark’s Cove, on the North Shore, churns with monster surf during the winter, making this popular snorkeling and diving spot extremely dangerous. In summer, the cavernous lava tubes and tunnels are great for both novices and experienced divers. Some dive-tour companies offer round-trip transportation from Waikiki. EHaleiwa.

Three Tables. A short walk from Shark’s Cove is Three Tables, named for a trio of flat rocks running perpendicular to shore. There are lava tubes to the right of these rocks that break the surface and extend out about 50 feet. Although this area isn’t as active as Shark’s Cove, you can still spot octopuses, moray eels, parrotfish, green sea turtles, and the occasional shark. EHaleiwa.

EQUIPMENT, LESSONS, AND TOURS

Aaron’s Dive Shop

SCUBA DIVING | This friendly and well-equipped dive shop caters to everyone. Take an “introductory” dive if you’re not certified, get certified, or sign up for an offshore day or night dive excursion if you’re experienced. In addition to organized group dives, the company’s “dive concierge” can arrange private charters for those who want a completely customized experience. Snorkelers can go along on many dives as well. E307 Hahani St., Kailua P808/262–2333 wwww.aaronsdiveshop.com ATwo-tank dive from $155.

Surf N Sea

SCUBA DIVING | This is the North Shore headquarters for all things water-related, including diving. One interesting perk: upon request, the dive guides can shoot a video of your adventure. It’s hard to see facial expressions under the water, but it still might be fun for those who want to prove that they took the plunge. The outfitter caters to divers of all abilities, from first-timers to advanced divers. E62-595 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa P808/637–3483 wwww.surfnsea.com ATwo-tank shore dives from $120.

Snorkeling

If you can swim, you can snorkel. You don’t need any formal training, and you can do it anywhere there’s enough water to stick your face in. A mask, snorkel, and fins will run you about $35 at any corner ABC Store. At the other end of the price spectrum, luxurious snorkel cruises cost up to $175, including lunch and drinks.

Conditions at each snorkeling spot vary, depending on the weather and time of year, so consult with the purveyor of your gear for tips on where the best viewing is that day. The North Shore should be attempted only when the waves are calm, namely in the summertime. Also, put plenty of sunscreen on your back (or better yet, wear a T-shirt or rash guard): once you start gazing below, your head may not come back up for hours, but your back will be exposed to the sun.

BEST SPOTS

Electric Beach. This haven for tropical fish is on the island’s west side, directly across from an electricity plant, hence the name (aka Kahe Beach Park). The expulsion of hot water from the plant raises the temperature of the ocean, attracting Hawaiian green sea turtles, spotted moray eels, and spinner dolphins. Although visibility is not always the best, the crowds are small, and the fish are guaranteed. EFarrington Hwy., 1 mile west of Ko Olina Resort, Kapolei.

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve. What Waimea Bay is to surfing, Hanauma Bay in Southeast Oahu is to snorkeling. It’s home to more than 250 different species of marine life. Due to the protection of the narrow mouth of the cove and the prodigious reef, you would be hard-pressed to find a place you would feel safer while snorkeling. Reservations and payment online are required to enter if you’re on your own, versus being on a tour; see whonolulu.gov/parks-hbay/home. E7455 Kalanianaole Hwy., Honolulu P808/768–6861 A$25 per person and $3 parking.

Queen’s Surf Beach. On the edge of Waikiki, between the Kapahulu Groin and the Waikiki Aquarium, this marine reserve isn’t as chock-full of fish as Hanauma Bay, but it has its share of colorful reef fish and the occasional Hawaiian green sea turtle. Just yards from shore, it’s a great spot for an escape if you’re stuck in Waikiki and have grown weary of watching the surfers. EKalakaua Ave., Honolulu.

Shark’s Cove. Great shallows protected by a huge reef make Shark’s Cove on the North Shore a prime spot for snorkelers, even young ones, in the summer. You’ll find a plethora of critters, from crabs to octopuses, in water that’s no more than waist deep. When the winter swells come, this area can turn treacherous. EKamehameha Hwy., across from Foodland, Haleiwa.

EQUIPMENT AND TOURS

HHanauma Bay Rental Stand

SNORKELING | FAMILY | You can rent masks, fins, and snorkels here; just be sure to make an online reservation and pay ahead to enter Hanauma Bay (whonolulu.gov/parks-hbay/home). The stand also has lockers that are just large enough to stash your valuables. Bring ID or car keys as a deposit for rental. EHanauma Bay Nature Preserve, 7455 Kalanianaole Hwy., Hawaii Kai P808/396–3483 whanaumabaystatepark.com ARentals from $20, lockers from $10 CClosed Mon. and Tues.

Snorkel Bob’s

SNORKELING | FAMILY | This place has all the stuff you’ll need—and more—to make your water adventures more enjoyable. Bob makes his own gear and is active in protecting reef fish species. Remember to ask the staff about good snorkeling spots, as the best ones can vary with weather and the seasons. You can either rent or buy gear (and reserve it in advance online). E700 Kapahulu Ave., Kapahulu P808/735–7944 wsnorkelbob.com ASnorkel gear rental packages from $8 per day, $24 per wk.

Stand-Up Paddleboarding

From the lakes of Wisconsin to the coast of Lima, Peru, stand-up paddleboarding (or SUP, for short) is taking the sport of surfing to unexpected places. Still, the sport remains firmly rooted in the Hawaiian Islands. Back in the 1960s, Waikiki beachboys would paddle out on their longboards using a modified canoe paddle. It was longer than a traditional paddle, enabling them to stand up and stroke. It was easier this way to survey the ocean and snap photos of tourists learning to surf. Eventually it became a sport unto itself, with professional contests at world-class surf breaks and long-distance races across treacherous waters.

Stand-up paddleboarding is easy to learn—though riding waves takes some practice—and most outfitters on Oahu offer lessons for all skill levels starting at about $55. It’s also a great workout; you can burn off yesterday’s dinner buffet, strengthen your core, and experience the natural beauty of the island’s coastlines all at once. Once you’re ready to head out on your own, half-day rentals start around $50.

If you’re looking to learn, go where there’s already a SUP presence. Avoid popular surf breaks, unless you’re experienced, and be wary of ocean and wind conditions. You’ll want to find a spot with calm waters, easy access in and out of the ocean, and a friendly crowd that doesn’t mind the occasional stand-up paddleboarder.

BEST SPOTS

Ala Moana Beach Park. About a mile west of Waikiki, Ala Moana is the most SUP-friendly spot on the island. In fact, the state installed a series of buoys in the flat-water lagoon to separate stand-up paddlers and swimmers. There are no waves here, making it a great spot to learn, but beware of strong trade winds, which can push you into the reef.

Anahulu Stream. Outfitters on the North Shore like to take SUP beginners to Anahulu Stream, which empties into Waialua Bay near the Haleiwa Boat Harbor. This area is calm and protected from winds, plus there’s parking at the harbor, and surf shops nearby rent boards.

Waikiki. Several south shore outfitters take beginners into the waters off Waikiki. Canoes, the surf break fronting the Duke Kahanamoku statue, and the channels between breaks are often suitable for people learning how to maneuver their boards in not-so-flat conditions. But south swells here can be menacing, and ocean conditions can change quickly. Check with lifeguards before paddling out, and be mindful of surfers in the water.

White Plains Beach. If you’ve got a car with racks, you might want to venture to White Plains, a fairly uncrowded beach about 27 miles west of Waikiki near Barbers Point. It’s a long, sandy beach with many breaks and plenty of room for everyone. There are lifeguards, restrooms, and lots of parking, making this a great spot for beginners and those just getting comfortable in small waves. EEssex Rd. and Tripoli Rd, Kapolei.

EQUIPMENT AND LESSONS

Hawaiian Watersports

STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING | FAMILY | Paddle off the shore of picturesque Kailua Beach. This safety-conscious outfitter offers both equipment rentals and 90-minute and 3-hour group or individual lessons. The one-stop shop for water sports also offers kiteboarding, surfing, and windsurfing lessons as well as kayak tours and equipment rentals. Discounts are available online if you book ahead. E171 Hamakua Dr. P808/262–5483 wpwhawaii.org ARentals from $64; lessons from $90.

Rainbow Watersports Adventures

STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING | FAMILY | When you spot this company’s colorful van at the bay near Haleiwa Beach Park, you’ll know you’re in the right place. You can get a two-hour private or group lesson on Oahu’s North Shore. All lessons are held in a spot popular with the resident green sea turtles. The company also offers a 3½-hour coastal eco-adventure trip, including snorkeling and lunch. Its Twilight Glow Paddle lets you glide through calm waters illuminated by lights mounted to your board. EHaleiwa Beach Park, Kamehameha Hwy. P800/470–4964, 808/470-4332 wrainbowwatersports.com AGroup lessons from $99; private lessons from $119.

Submarine Tours

Atlantis Submarines

BOATING | FAMILY | Here is an underwater adventure for the unadventurous. Not fond of swimming, but want to see what you’ve been missing? Board this high-tech 64-passenger vessel for a ride past shipwrecks, turtle breeding grounds, and coral reefs. Little kids really seem to love it, though there’s a 36-inch height minimum. The tours, which depart from the pier at the Hilton Hawaiian Village, are available in several languages, and discounts are available if booked online. EHilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort, 2005 Kalia Rd., Waikiki P808/973–9800, 800/381–0237 for reservations watlantisadventures.com AFrom $148.

Surfing

Perhaps no word is more associated with Hawaii than surfing. Every year, the best of the best gather on Oahu’s North Shore to compete in major surfing events. The pros dominate the waves for a month, but the rest of the year belongs to folks just trying to have fun. Oahu is unique because it has so many famous spots: Banzai Pipeline, Waimea Bay, Kaiser Bowls, Sunset Beach, and others. These spots, however, require experience and are often populated with well-known surfers who can be both territorial and intimidating. Waikiki is a great place for beginners to learn or for novice surfers to catch predictable waves. Group lessons on Waikiki Beach start at $50, but if you really want to fine-tune your skills, you can pay up to $500 for a daylong private outing with a former pro.

The island also has miles of coastline with surf spots that are perfect for everyday surfers. But remember this surfer’s credo: when in doubt, don’t go out. If you’re unsure about conditions, stay on the beach, and talk to locals to get more info about surf breaks before trying yourself.

zTo avoid a confrontation with local surfers, who can be very territorial about their favorite breaks, try some of the alternate spots listed below. They may not have the name recognition, but their waves can be just as great.

BEST SPOTS

Makaha Beach Park. If you like to ride waves, try this west side beach. It has legendary, interminable rights that allow riders to perform all manner of stunts: from six-man canoes with everyone doing headstands to Bullyboards (oversize bodyboards) with whole families along for the ride. Mainly known as a longboarding spot, it’s predominantly local but respectful to outsiders. Use caution in winter, as the surf can get huge. It’s not called Makaha—which means “fierce”—for nothing. E84-369 Farrington Hwy., Waianae.

Sunset Beach Park. If you’ve got some skills, impress your surfing buddies back home by catching a wave at the famous Sunset Beach on Oahu’s North Shore. Two of the more manageable breaks are Kammie Land (or Kammie’s) and Sunset Point. Thick waves and long rides await, but you’ll need a thick board and a thicker skull. Surf etiquette here is a must, as it’s mostly local. E59-104 Kamehameha Hwy., 1 mile north of Ehukai Beach Park, Haleiwa.

Ulukou Beach. In Waikiki you can paddle out to Populars—or Pops—a break at Ulukou Beach. Nice and easy, it never breaks too hard and is friendly to both newbies and veterans. It’s one of the best places to surf during pumping south swells, as thick waves break in open ocean, making it more rideable. The only downside is the long paddle out from Kuhio Beach, but that keeps the crowds manageable. EWaikiki Beach, in front of Sheraton Waikiki Beach Resort, Honolulu.

White Plains Beach. Known among locals as “mini Waikiki,” the surf at White Plains breaks in numerous spots, preventing the logjams that are inevitable at many of Oahu’s more popular spots. It’s a great break for novice to intermediate surfers, though you do have to watch for wayward boards. EFrom the H1, take the Makakilo exit. Off H1, Kapolei.

EQUIPMENT AND LESSONS

Aloha Beach Services

SURFING | FAMILY | It may sound like a cliché, but there’s no better way to learn to surf than from the iconic beachboys in Waikiki, a Waikiki fixture since 1959. In fact, it’s often where locals take their visitors who want to surf because it’s really got it all. And there’s no one better than Harry “Didi” Robello, a second-generation beachboy and owner of Aloha Beach Services. Learn to surf in an hour-long group or semiprivate lesson or with just you and an instructor. You can also rent a board here. E2365 Kalakaua Ave., on beach near Moana Surfrider, Waikiki P808/922–3111 ask for Aloha Beach Services wwww.alohabeachservices.com ALessons from $100, board rentals from $20.

Faith Surf School

SURFING | FAMILY | Professional surfer Tony Moniz started his own surf school in 2000, and since then, he and his wife, Tammy, have helped thousands of people catch their first waves in Waikiki. The Moniz family is iconic in Hawaii’s surf culture, and their stories are as good as their lessons. The 90-minute group lessons include all equipment and are the cheapest option. You can pay more (sometimes a lot more) for semiprivate lessons with up to three people or for private lessons. You can also book an all-day surf tour with Moniz, riding waves with him at his favorite breaks. EOutrigger Waikiki Beach Resort, 2335 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki P808/931–6262 wfaithsurfschool.com ALessons from $95, board rental from $20.

Hans Hedemann Surf School

SURFING | FAMILY | Hans Hedemann spent 17 years on the professional surfing circuit. He and his staff offer surfing, bodysurfing, and stand-up paddleboarding instruction; multiday intensive surf camps; and fine-tuning courses with Hedemann himself. Two-hour group lessons are the cheapest option, but private lessons are also available. There are also locations on the North Shore. EQueen Kapiolani Hotel, 150 Kapahulu Ave., Waikiki P808/924–7778 whhsurf.com ALessons from $95.

Whale-Watching

December is marked by the arrival of snow in much of North America, but in Hawaii it marks the return of humpback whales. These migrating behemoths move south during winter for courtship and calving, and they put on quite a show. Watching males and females throwing themselves out of the ocean and into the sunset awes even the saltiest of sailors. Newborn calves riding next to their 2-ton mothers will stir you to your core. These gentle giants can be seen from the shore, but there’s nothing like having a boat rock beneath you in the wake of a whale’s breach. Whales are gone by May, but while they are in Hawaii, they captivate everyone.

The whales show up when and where they want, so although seasonal whale-watching tours are a good option, it’s entirely possible you’ll see some on any occasion that you’re out on the water. Ask staff about whale sightings when you’re booking any water activity.

Wild Side Specialty Tours

WILDLIFE-WATCHING | FAMILY | Boasting a marine-biologist/naturalist crew, this company takes you to undisturbed snorkeling areas, and you may well spot dolphins and turtles along the way. The company promises a sighting of migrating whales year-round on some itineraries. The boat is well appointed and ideal for smaller groups. Tours may depart as early as 8 am from Waianae, so plan ahead. The three-hour deluxe wildlife tour is the most popular option. EWaianae Boat Harbor, 85-471 Farrington Hwy., Waianae P808/306–7273 wsailhawaii.com AFrom $205.

WELCOME TO MAUI

TOP REASONS TO GO

Beaches: From black-sand beauties to palm-lined strands, each beach is unique.

Resorts: Opulent spas, pools, gardens, and golf courses deliver pampering aplenty.

Hawaiian culture: From hula to luau, you can experience Maui’s diverse culture.

Road to Hana: This famed winding road offers stunning views of waterfalls and coast.

Whale-watching: Humpback whales congregate each winter right off Maui’s shores.

Water sports: Surfing, snorkeling, and sailing are just a few top options.

West Maui. This sunny leeward area has excellent beaches fronted with upscale resorts and condominiums; Lahaina was largely destroyed by a wildfire in August 2023.

South Shore. The leeward side of Maui’s eastern half is what most people mean when they say “South Shore.”

Central Maui. Between Maui’s two mountain areas is Wailuku, the commercial center Kahului, and Maui’s airport.

Upcountry. Island residents use “Upcountry” affectionately to describe the regions climbing up the slope of Haleakala Crater in Haleakala National Park.

North Shore. The North Shore has no large resorts, just plenty of picturesque, laid-back small towns.

Road to Hana. The Island’s windward northeast is largely one great rain forest, traversed by the stunning Road to Hana.

East Maui. East Maui invites visitors to really get off the beaten path.

Those who know Maui well understand why it’s earned all its superlatives. The island’s miles of perfect beaches, lush green valleys, historic villages, top-notch water sports and outdoor activities, and amazing marine life have made it an international favorite. But nature isn’t all Maui has to offer: it’s also home to a wide variety of cultural activities, stunning cultural diversity, and stellar restaurants and resorts.

Maui is much more than sandy beaches and palm trees; it’s a land of water and fire. Puu Kukui, the 5,788-foot interior of Mauna Kahalawai, also known as the “West Maui Mountains,” is one of Earth’s wettest spots—an annual rainfall of 400 inches has sculpted the land into impassable gorges and razor-sharp ridges. On the opposite side of the island, the blistering lava fields at Ahihi-Kinau receive scant rain. Just above this desertlike landscape, paniolo (cowboys) herd cattle on rolling fertile ranchlands. On the island’s rugged east side is the lush tropical Hawaii of travel posters.

In small towns like Paia and Hana you can see remnants of the past mingling with modern-day life. Ancient heiau (platforms, often made of stone, once used as places of worship) line busy roadways. Old coral-and-brick missionary homes now welcome visitors. The antique smokestacks of sugar mills tower above communities where the children blend English, Hawaiian, Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, Filipino, and more into one colorful language. Hawaii is a melting pot like no other. Visiting an eclectic mom-and-pop shop—such as Makawao’s T. Komoda Store & Bakery—can feel like stepping into another country or back in time. The more you look here, the more you find.

At 729 square miles, Maui is the second-largest Hawaiian Island, but it offers more miles of swimmable beaches than any of its neighbors. Despite rapid growth over the past few decades, the local population still totals less than 200,000.

Maui is made up of two volcanoes, one now extinct and the other dormant but that erupted long ago, joined into one island. The resulting depression between the two is what gives the island its nickname, the Valley Isle. West Maui’s 5,788-foot Puu Kukui was the first volcano to form, a distinction that gives that area’s mountainous topography a more weathered look. The Valley Isle’s second volcano is the 10,023-foot Haleakala, where desertlike terrain abuts tropical forests.

Haleakala is one of few homes to the rare ahinahina (silversword plant). The plant’s brilliant silver leaves are stunning against the red lava rock that blankets the walls of Haleakala’s caldera—particularly during blooming season July–September. A distant cousin of the sunflower, the silversword blooms just once before it dies—producing a single towering stalk awash in tiny fragrant blossoms. Also calling Haleakala home are a few hundred nene, Hawaii’s state bird (related to the Canada goose), currently fighting its way back from near extinction. Maui is the best Hawaiian island for whale-watching, and migrating humpbacks can be seen off the island’s coast November–April, with peak season happening January–March.

Maui’s history is full of firsts—Lahaina was the first capital of Hawaii and the first destination of the whaling industry (early 1800s); it was also the first stop for missionaries on Maui (1823). (Virtually the entire town was destroyed in a wildfire in August 2023, and rebuilding has only begun.) Although they suppressed aspects of Hawaiian culture, the missionaries did help invent the Hawaiian alphabet and built a printing press—the first west of the Rockies—that rolled out the news in Hawaiian, as well as, not surprisingly, Hawaii’s first Bibles. Maui also boasts the first sugar plantation in Hawaii (1849) and the first Hawaiian luxury resort (1946), now called the Hana Maui Resort.

The Valley Isle’s namesake, the demigod Maui, is a well-known Polynesian trickster. (He may be better known these days as a companion to Disney’s Moana.) When his mother, Hina, complained of too few hours in the day to dry her kapa (traditional Hawaiian bark cloth, used for decoration and clothing), Maui promised to slow the sun. Hearing this, the god Moemoe teased Maui for boasting, but undeterred, the demigod wove a strong cord and lassoed the sun. Angry, the sun scorched the fields until an agreement was reached: During summer, the sun would travel more slowly. In winter, it would return to its quick pace. For ridiculing Maui, Moemoe was turned into a large rock that still juts from the water near Kahakuloa.

In the mid-1970s savvy marketers saw a way to improve Maui’s economy by promoting the Valley Isle to golfers and luxury travelers. The strategy worked well; Maui’s visitor count is about 2.6 million annually. Impatient traffic now threatens to overtake the ubiquitous aloha spirit, development encroaches on agricultural lands, and county planners struggle to meet the needs of a burgeoning population and to rehouse those who were displaced by the Lahaina wildfire. But Maui is still carpeted with an eyeful of green, and for every tailgater there’s a local on “Maui time” who stops for each pedestrian and sunset.

Planning

Getting Here and Around

AIR

Hawaii’s major islands have their own airports, but Oahu’s Daniel K. Inouye International Airport is the main stopover for most U.S. mainland and international flights. From Honolulu, daily flights to Maui leave from early morning until late evening. You can depart from the interisland or commuter terminals in two structures adjacent to the overseas terminal building. The Wiki Wiki Shuttle, a free bus service, can transport you between terminals. Flights from Honolulu into Lanai and Molokai are offered several times a day. In addition, several carriers offer nonstop service directly from the U.S. mainland to Maui.

Maui has two major airports. Kahului Airport handles major airlines and interisland flights; it’s the only airport on Maui with direct service from the mainland. Kapalua–West Maui Airport is served by Hawaiian and Mokulele airlines. If you’re staying in West Maui and flying in from another island, you can avoid the hour drive from the Kahului Airport by flying into Kapalua–West Maui Airport. Hana Airport in East Maui is small; Mokulele Airlines offers daily flights between Kahului and Hana.

BUS

Maui Bus, operated by the tour company Roberts Hawaii, offers 12 routes in and between various Central, South, and West Maui communities. You can travel in and around Wailuku, Kahului, Kaanapali, Kapalua, Kihei, Wailea, Maalaea, the North Shore (Paia), and Upcountry (including Kula, Pukalani, Makawao, Haliimaile, and Haiku). The Upcountry and Haiku Islander routes include a stop at Kahului Airport. All routes cost $2 per boarding; children five and under ride free.

CAR

Should you plan to do any sightseeing on Maui, it’s best to rent a car. Even if all you want to do is relax at your resort, you may want to hop in the car to check out one of the Island’s popular restaurants.

Many of Maui’s roads are two lanes, so allow plenty of time to your next destination. Check the local traffic reports and Google Maps for delays. During morning and afternoon rush hours, traffic can be awful. Morning (6:30–9:30 am) and afternoon (3:30–6:30 pm) rush-hour traffic around Kahului, Paia, Kihei, and Lahaina can cause significant delays, so use caution. When returning your rental car, give yourself about 3½ to 4 hours before your transpacific flight departure time due to traffic and long airport security lines.

Driving from one point on Maui to another can take longer than the mileage indicates. It’s 52 miles from Kahului Airport to Hana, but the drive will take you about three hours if you stop to smell the flowers, which you certainly should do. As for driving to Haleakala, the 38-mile trip from sea level to the summit will take about two hours. The roads are narrow and winding; you must travel slowly. Kahului is the transportation hub—the main airport and largest harbor are here. Traffic on Maui’s roads can be heavy, especially from 6 am–8:30 am and 3:30 pm–6:30 pm.

Hotels

Maui is well known for its lovely resorts, some of them very luxurious; many cater to families. But there are other options, including abundant and convenient apartment and condo rentals for all budgets. The resorts and rentals cluster largely on Maui’s sunny coasts, in West Maui and the South Shore. For a different, more local experience, you might spend part of your time at a small bed-and-breakfast. Check Internet sites and ask about discounts and packages.

FHotel and restaurant reviews have been shortened. For more information, visit Fodors.com. Hotel prices are the lowest cost of a standard double room in high season or, for rentals, the lowest per-night cost for a one-bedroom unit in high season. Restaurant prices are the average cost of a main course at dinner or, if dinner is not served, at lunch. Prices do not include 13.42% tax.

Restaurants

There’s a lot going on for a place the size of Maui, from old-school holes-in-the-wall to fancy oceanfront fish houses. Much of it is excellent, but some of it is overpriced and touristy. Choose menu items made with products that are abundant on the island, including local fish. Local cuisine is a mix of foods brought by various immigrants since the late 1700s, blended with the foods Native Hawaiians have enjoyed for centuries. For a food adventure, take a drive into Central Maui and eat at one of the “local” spots recommended here.

Visitor Information

The Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau (HVCB) has a lot of general and vacation-planning information for Maui and all the Islands. HVCB also offers a free official vacation planner.

INFORMATION Maui Visitors Bureau. E427 Ala Makani St., Kahului P800/525–6284 toll free wwww.gohawaii.com/islands/maui.

West Maui

Separated from the remainder of the Island by steep pali (cliffs), West Maui has a reputation for attitude and action. Once upon a time this was the haunt of whalers, missionaries, and the kings and queens of Hawaii.

Lahaina’s Front Street was decimated by wildfires in August 2023, but the town’s beloved establishments have proven resilient, and many have set up shop in other areas of the island or online. Farther north is Kaanapali, Maui’s first planned resort area. Its first hotel, the Sheraton, opened in 1963. Since then, massive resorts, luxury condos, and a shopping center have sprung up along the white-sand beaches, with championship golf courses across the road. A few miles farther up the coast is the ultimate in West Maui luxury, the resort area of Kapalua. In between, dozens of strip malls line both the makai (toward the sea) and mauka (toward the mountains) sides of the highway. There are gems here, too, like Napili Bay and its jaw-dropping crescent of sand.

In addition to Mele Mei musical events during May, Maui also plays host to some exciting culinary, cultural, and eco-driven festivals. Residents and visitors gather to partake in great food and drink, as well as family-friendly cultural festivities that usually span multiple days.

Olowalu

6 miles south of Lahaina.

Olowalu is a dot on the map, and if you aren’t paying attention, you might drive through it without even noticing. It’s home to a handful of oceanfront mansions, a popular restaurant, a vibrant farmers’ market, and an ocean-side campground. Most visitors come here for the watery attractions, which include a popular surf break and fantastic snorkeling spot.

; Beaches

Olowalu

BEACH | More an offshore snorkel and stand-up paddling spot than a beach, Olowalu is also a great place to watch for turtles and whales in season. The beach is literally a pullover from the road, which can make for some unwelcome noise if you’re looking for quiet. The entrance can be rocky (reef shoes help), but if you’ve got your snorkel gear it’s a 200-yard swim to an extensive and diverse reef. Shoreline visibility can vary depending on the swell and time of day; late morning is best. Except for during a south swell, the waters are usually calm. You can find this rocky surf break ½ mile north of mile marker 14. Snorkeling here is along pathways that wind among coral heads. Note: this is a local hangout and can be unfriendly at times. Amenities: none. Best for: snorkeling. ERte. 30, Olowalu jLook for mile marker 14, south of Olowalu General Store.

Papalaua Wayside Park

BEACH | This popular (and often-crowded) park is also known as Thousand Peaks because there’s barely a break between each wave. Beginner to intermediate surfers say it’s a good spot to longboard or bodyboard. It’s easy entry into the water, and you don’t have to paddle out far. The beach itself leaves something to be desired, but there is some shade, mostly from thorny kiawe trees; footwear is a good idea. There’s roadside parking, and portable toilets are available. Camping is allowed by county permit. Amenities: toilets. Best for: surfing. ERte. 30, Olowalu jNear mile marker 11/12 wwww.mauicounty.gov.

r Restaurants

HLeoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Slow down as you drive through the little roadside village of Olowalu so you don’t miss this adorable farmhouse-chic restaurant and pie shop, where everything is prepared with care. All the breads are house-made and excellent, and most ingredients are sourced locally—you can’t go wrong with a sandwich or a burger with Kula onions for lunch or comfort food like pot pies for an early dinner. Known for: can order online to beat long lines; out-of-this-world banana cream pie; delicious spicy-tuna sandwiches. DAverage main: $16 E820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu P808/662–3600 wwww.leodas.com.

Lahaina

27 miles west of Kahului; 4 miles south of Kaanapali.

As of 2023, Lahaina will always be associated with one of the most devastating and tragic wildfires in U.S. history. This coastal town is an extremely special place, not only to the tight-knit local community but also to visitors, many of whom have returned year after year. No one knows for sure what the future Lahaina will look like, but it will no doubt emerge even better and stronger than before thanks to the outpouring of love and support from around the world, the help of its caring community leaders, and the resilience of its residents.

Lahaina has quite a history. In 1798, after waging war to unite the Hawaiian Islands, Kamehameha the Great chose Lahaina, then called Lele, as the seat of his monarchy. Warriors from Kamehameha’s 800 canoes, stretched along the coast from Olowalu to Honokowai, turned inland and filled the lush valleys with networks of stream-fed loi kalo, or taro patches. For nearly 50 years, Lahaina was the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom. During this period, the scent of Hawaiian sandalwood brought those who traded with China to these waters. Whaling ships followed, chasing sperm whales from Japan to the Arctic. Lahaina became known around the world for its rough-and-tumble ways.

Then, almost as quickly as it had come, the tide of foreign trade receded. The Hawaiian capital was moved to Honolulu in 1845, and by 1860, the sandalwood forests were empty and sperm whales nearly extinct. Luckily, Lahaina had already grown into an international, sophisticated (if sometimes rowdy) town, laying claim to the first printing press and high school west of the Rockies. Sugar interests kept the town afloat until tourism stepped in.

Maui’s 2023 Wildfires s

On August 8, 2023, wildfires broke out on Maui, threatening several places, including the Upcountry community of Kula and the South Shore town of Kihei. The greatest threat, however, was to the West Maui hub of Lahaina, home to more than 12,000 people, many of whom work in service-industry jobs that keep the region’s accommodations and other amenities running.

The town was devastated by the flames. Most of its once-bustling Front Street was destroyed. Many residences were lost, as were historical sights and hotels; one of Maui’s most important harbors; and restaurants, galleries, shops, and other businesses. It wasn’t until September that the wildfires were contained. By then, thousands of people had been uprooted from their homes and 100 people had lost their lives.

Although it will take a long time for Lahaina to rebuild and recover, months after the fire, businesses were beginning to reopen, some in their original spaces, others in different locations across the island. Fundraising pop-up events were also taking place, illustrating the resiliency and compassion of the residents. During the Love for Lahaina event at Four Seasons Maui, for instance, local chefs like LeAnne Wong (Papaaina at Pioneer Inn) and Alvin Savella (Duckine) had an opportunity to help the community while working through their own feelings of loss and devastation.

Before a trip to West Maui, check to confirm what’s open and what is still a work in progress. During a visit to West Maui, remember that this community is in the process of healing as well as rebuilding. Show compassion and respect, and exercise patience. Here are some resources that have ongoing updates or information about how you can help:

County of Maui: wwww.mauicounty.gov.

Lahaina Restoration Foundation: wwww.lahainarestoration.org.

Maui Strong Fund: wwww.hawaiicommunityfoundation.org/strengthening/maui-strong-fund.

What’s Open West Maui: wwww.facebook.com/groups/whatsopenwestmaui.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

It’s about a 45-minute drive from Kahului Airport to Lahaina (take Route 380 to Route 30), depending on the traffic on this heavily traveled route. Traffic can be slow around Lahaina, especially from 4 to 6 pm. Shuttles and taxis are available from Kahului Airport. The Maui Bus Lahaina Islander route runs from Queen Kaahumanu Center in Kahului to the Wharf Cinema Center on Front Street, Lahaina’s main thoroughfare.

CRUISE TRAVEL TO LAHAINA

Visitors arriving by sea at Lahaina Harbor are greeted by the version of Hawaii seen in postcards. A former whaling port, Lahaina has a rich history, several informative museums, and flashy shops, art galleries, and restaurants. Lahaina Visitor Center in the Old Lahaina Courthouse is a good place to start your exploration, and any one of the staff members there can answer your questions or provide information on the best sites to visit.

Lahaina is relatively compact, with sandy beaches and creature comforts within walking distance. Taxi fares run $5–$15 in and around Lahaina. Famed Kaanapali Beach is a short 4½ miles away.

; Beaches

HLauniupoko Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | This is the beach park of all beach parks: both a surf break and a beach, it offers a little something for everyone with its inviting stretch of lawn, soft white sand, and gentle waves. The shoreline reef creates a protected wading pool, perfect for small children. Outside the reef, beginner surfers will find good longboard rides. From the long sliver of beach, you can enjoy superb views of neighboring islands, and, landside, of deep valleys cutting through West Maui’s mountain. Because of its endless sunshine and serenity—not to mention such amenities as picnic tables and grills—Launiupoko draws a crowd on the weekends, but there’s space for everyone (and overflow parking across the street). Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: partiers; sunset; surfing; swimming. ERte. 30, Lahaina jAt mile marker 18 wmauicounty.gov.

r Restaurants

Honu Oceanside

$$$$ | AMERICAN | Although this oceanfront restaurant began as a way to showcase the work of celebrity chef Mark Ellman, it subsequently changed ownership, and its menus are evolving. You can, however, count on there being interesting cocktails, classic seafood dishes, and pizzas that have been cooked in a wood-fired brick oven. Known for: unparalleled ocean views with sea turtle sightings; fantastic selection of craft beers and cocktails; gluten-free options. DAverage main: $36 E1295 Front St., Lahaina P808/667–9390 wwww.honumaui.com CClosed Sun.

HMala Ocean Tavern

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | The menu at this oceanfront standout features interesting local-style Hawaiian food fusions. There’s a focus on ingredients that promote local sustainability, and the cocktail and wine lists are great, too. Known for: seared ahi (yellowfin tuna) bruschetta; seafood brodo; friendly and attentive staff. DAverage main: $38 E1307 Front St., Lahaina P808/667–9394 wmalatavern.com.

Penne Pasta Cafe

$ | ITALIAN | FAMILY | This small place packs a powerhouse of a menu with reasonably priced pizzas, pastas, salads, and sandwiches. As the restaurant’s name suggests, several dishes feature penne, and portions tend to be generous enough so that two people can easily split a salad and entrée and leave completely sated. Known for: gluten-free and vegan options; fast and friendly service; fantastic desserts. DAverage main: $12 E3350 Lower Hoonapili Rd., Lahaina P808/661–6633 wwww.pennepastacafe.net.

Coffee and Quick Bites

HKuia Chocolate Cafe, Store & Factory Experience

$ | DESSERTS | FAMILY | Spend a sweet afternoon learning about the chocolate-making process during the Kuia Chocolate Factory Experience, a 90-minute tour of this confectioner’s operations for guests ages 10 and up, followed by the chance to taste some of Maui’s best chocolate. If you have smaller children in tow and/or are short on time, you can head straight for the café for a hand-mixed chocolate shake, a hot chocolate or a coffee, and a treat from the bakery case. Known for: local philanthropic philosophy; chocolate-tasting flights; offers chocolate in all its forms. DAverage main: $8 E78 Ulupono St., Lahaina P844/844–5842 wmauichocolate.com CClosed Sat. and Sun.

Maui’s Food Trucks: Movable Feasts r

As in so many other places, food-truck culture has taken hold on Maui, but don’t expect to find well-equipped, customized trucks like the ones you see on the Food Network. Most have no websites, Instagram accounts, or Facebook pages; some don’t even have phones. Many have irregular days and hours of operation.

A group of trucks has formed a food court across from the Costco parking lot, just minutes from Kahului Airport. In Kihei, look for the food truck park behind the Azeka Mauka Center. Honokowai has developed a park of its own, which is located along Lower Honoapiilani Highway.

h Hotels

HHooilo House

$$$$ | B&B/INN | A luxurious intimate getaway without resort facilities, this stunning, 2-acre B&B in the foothills of West Maui’s mountain, just south of Lahaina town, exemplifies quiet perfection. Pros: friendly, on-site hosts; beautiful furnishings; gazebo for special events. Cons: not good for families with younger children; three-night minimum; far from area amenities. DRooms from: $499 E138 Awaiku St., Lahaina P808/667–6669 whooilohouse.com a6 rooms XFree Breakfast.

p Performing Arts

HOld Lahaina Luau

FOLK/TRADITIONAL DANCE | FAMILY | Many consider this to be the best luau on Maui, and most agree that it’s certainly the most traditional. Sitting either at a table or on a lauhala (mat made of leaves), you dine on Hawaiian dishes such as pork laulau (wrapped with taro sprouts in ti leaves), ahi poke (raw yellowfin tuna salad), lomi lomi salmon (traditional diced side dish), and haupia (coconut pudding). At sunset, the historical journey touches on the arrival of the Polynesians, the influence of missionaries and, later, the advent of tourism. Talented performers will charm you with beautiful music, powerful chanting, and a variety of hula styles, from kahiko, the ancient way of communicating with the gods, to auana, the modern hula. You won’t see fire dancers here, as they aren’t considered traditional. lThis luau sells out regularly, so make reservations before your trip to Maui. E1251 Front St., near Lahaina Cannery Mall, Lahaina P808/667–1998 woldlahainaluau.com.

Kaanapali

4 miles north of Lahaina.

As you drive north from Lahaina, the first resort community you reach is Kaanapali, a cluster of high-rise hotels framing a world-class white-sand beach. This is part of West Maui’s famous resort strip and is a perfect destination for families and romance seekers wanting to be in the center of the action.

The theatrical look of Hawaii tourism—planned resort communities where luxury homes mix with high-rise hotels, fantasy swimming pools, and a theme-park landscape—began right here in the 1960s, when clever marketers built this sunny shoreline into a playground for the world’s vacationers. Three miles of uninterrupted white-sand beach and placid water form the front yard of this artificial utopia, with its many tennis courts and two championship golf courses.

In ancient times, the area near Sheraton Maui was known for its bountiful fishing (especially lobster) and its seaside cliffs. The sleepy fishing village was washed away by the wave of Hawaii’s new economy: tourism.

A little farther up the road lie the condo-filled beach towns of Honokowai and Napili, followed by Kapalua. Each boasts its own style and flavor, though most rely on a low-key beach vibe for people wanting upscale vacation rentals.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Shuttles and taxis are available from Kahului and Kapalua (West Maui) airports. Resorts offer free shuttles between properties, and some hotels also provide complimentary shuttles into Lahaina. In the Maui Bus system, the West Maui Islander begins and ends at Wharf Cinema Center in Lahaina and stops at most condos along the coastal road as far north as Napili Bay.

; Beaches

HKaanapali Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | If you’re looking for quiet and seclusion, this is not the beach for you. But if you want lots of action, spread out your towel here. Stretching from the northernmost end of the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa to the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa at its southern tip, Kaanapali Beach is lined with resorts, condominiums, restaurants, and shops. Ocean activity companies launch from the shoreline fronting Whalers Village, making it one of Maui’s best people-watching spots. A concrete pathway weaves along the length of this 3-mile-long beach, leading from one astounding resort and oceanfront restaurant to the next.

The drop-off from Kaanapali’s soft sugary sand is steep, but waves hit the shore with barely a rippling slap outside of winter months. The landmark promontory known as Puu Kekaa (nicknamed “Black Rock”) was traditionally considered a leina a ka uhane, or jumping-off place for spirits. It’s easy to get into the water from the beach to enjoy the prime snorkeling among the lava-rock outcroppings. lStrong rip currents are often present near Puu Kekaa; always snorkel with a companion.

Throughout the resort, blue “Shoreline Access” signs point the way to a few free-parking stalls and public rights-of-way to the beach. Kaanapali Resort public beach parking can be found between the Hyatt and the Marriott, between the Marriott and the Kaanapali Alii, next to Whalers Village, and at the Sheraton. You can park for a fee at most of the large hotels. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; sunset; swimming; walking. EHonoapiilani Hwy., Kaanapali jFollow any of the 3 Kaanapali exits.

r Restaurants

Honokowai Okazuya & Deli

$ | ECLECTIC | FAMILY | Located within a nondescript mini strip mall, this small place has only a few stools and a couple of tables outside, but service is fast, and the food is consistently good—all it takes to keep the place filled with locals. The beef and black bean chow fun and the mahi mahi (dolphinfish) with lemon capers are the top-selling favorites, but there are vegetarian options and lighter fare such as Grandma’s spicy tofu, egg foo young, and even a veggie burger. Known for: huge portions; local-style flavors; quality food at a reasonable price. DAverage main: $12 E3600-D Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Honokowai P808/665–0512 cNo credit cards CClosed Sun.

HJapengo

$$$$ | ASIAN | Located inside the Hyatt Regency, this dinner restaurant sits atop a man-made pool grotto and offers stunning ocean views and a gorgeous glassed-in sushi bar. The fresh local fish is well prepared—as are the sushi and hand rolls—and the desserts are amazing. Known for: live Hawaiian and acoustic entertainment; outstanding chef’s specials; nice sake menu with flight options. DAverage main: $42 EHyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kaanapali P808/667–4909 wwww.hyatt.com CNo lunch.

Pizza Paradiso

$ | ITALIAN | FAMILY | When it opened in 1995, this was a counter-service pizza place, but it’s evolved over into a local favorite, serving Mediterranean-style pizza and comfort food including pitas, gyros, and kabobs. Known for: fresh, house-made pesto; gelato and Dole Whip for dessert; pizzas with local Maui produce. DAverage main: $15 EHonokowai Marketplace, 3350 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Honokowai P808/667–2929 wwww.pizzaparadiso.com.

HSon’z Steakhouse

$$$$ | STEAK HOUSE | To enter the only steak house in West Maui, you descend a grand staircase into an amber-lighted dining room with soaring ceilings and a massive artificial lagoon complete with swans, ducks, waterfalls, and tropical gardens. Chef Amy Mayers’ classic menu features favorites like the bone-in rib eye and tomahawk steaks—with accompaniments that include five house-made sauces and a variety of sides and seafood add-ons—as well as lighter plates like shrimp cocktail and the must-try black and blue ahi starter. Known for: 100% USDA-certified-prime steaks; astounding wine cellar; private, lagoon-front setting. DAverage main: $40 EHyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kaanapali P808/667–4506 wwww.sonzsteakhouse.com CNo lunch.

h Hotels

With its long stretch of beach lined with luxury resorts, shops, and restaurants, Kaanapali is a vacationers’ playground. Expect top-class service here and everything you could want a few steps from your room, including the calm waters of sun-kissed Kaanapali Beach. Wandering along the beach path between resorts is a recreational activity unto itself. Weather is dependably warm, and for that reason as well as all the others, Kaanapali is a popular—at times, downright crowded—destination.

HHyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Splashing waterfalls, swim-through grottos, a lagoon-like swimming pool, and a 150-foot waterslide “wow” guests of all ages at this bustling Kaanapali resort, and spacious standard rooms are among the other draws. Pros: drums of the Pacific luau and the must-see rooftop astronomy Tour of the Stars; Hawaiian cultural programs and wildlife education; water wonderland will thrill families. Cons: can be difficult to find a space in self-parking; might not offer the most peaceful escape; daily resort and parking fees. DRooms from: $733 E200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kaanapali P808/661–1234 wwww.hyatt.com a810 rooms XNo Meals.

Kaanapali Alii

$$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | Amenities like maid service, an activities desk, a small store with complimentary DVDs for guests to borrow, and a 24-hour front-desk service—and no pesky resort fees—make this a winning choice for families and others wanting to play house on Maui’s most stunning shores. Pros: large comfortable units on the beach; quiet compared to other hotels in the resort; free parking. Cons: parking can be crowded during high season; no on-site restaurant; small pools can get crowded. DRooms from: $534 E50 Nohea Kai Dr., Kaanapali P866/644–6410 wwww.destinationhotels.com/kaanapali-alii a264 units XNo Meals.

HMaui Eldorado Kaanapali

$$$ | APARTMENT | The Kaanapali Golf Course’s fairways wrap around this fine, well-priced, two-story condo complex that has spacious studio, one-, and two-bedroom units with fully equipped kitchens and access to a stocked beach cabana on a semiprivate beach. Pros: privileges at the Kaanapali Golf Course; Wi-Fi in all units; friendly staff. Cons: not right on beach; some distance from resort area attractions; no housekeeping but checkout cleaning fee. DRooms from: $300 E2661 Kekaa Dr., Kaanapali P808/633–8331 wwww.mauikaanapalivacationrentals.com a204 units XNo Meals.

HOUTRIGGER Kaanapali Beach Hotel

$$$$ | HOTEL | This charming beachfront hotel is full of aloha—locals say it’s one of the few resorts on the island where you can get a true Hawaiian experience as the entire staff takes part in the hotel’s Pookela program, which teaches guests about the history, traditions, and values of Hawaiian culture. Pros: no resort fee; friendly staff; diverse array of cultural activities. Cons: property is older than neighboring resorts; fewer amenities than other places along this beach; daily parking fee. DRooms from: $350 E2525 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali P808/661–0011, 800/262–8450 wwww.outrigger.com a432 rooms XNo Meals.

Royal Lahaina Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | Built in 1962, this grand property on the uncrowded, sandy shore in North Kaanapali has hosted millionaires and Hollywood stars, and today it pleases families and budget seekers as well as luxury travelers with a variety of lodging options. Pros: on-site luau; variety of lodgings and rates; tennis ranch with 11 courts and a pro shop. Cons: older property; daily self-parking fee; evening luau noise can be loud. DRooms from: $420 E2780 Kekaa Dr., Kaanapali P800/447–6925 wwww.royallahaina.com a447 units XNo Meals.

HSheraton Maui Resort & Spa

$$$$ | RESORT | Set among dense gardens on Kaanapali’s best stretch of beach, the Sheraton offers a quieter, more low-key atmosphere than its neighboring resorts, and it sits near Puu Kekaa, the site of a nightly torch-lighting and cliff-diving ritual. Pros: free shuttle to Lahaina and shopping malls; great snorkeling right off the beach; Maui Nui luau three times a week. Cons: extensive property can mean a long walk from your room to lobby, restaurants, and beach; daily resort and parking fees; beach subject to seasonal erosion. DRooms from: $759 E2605 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali P808/661–0031 wwww.marriott.com a508 units XNo Meals.

The Westin Maui Resort & Spa

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | This 12-acre beachfront paradise offers a setting that is both beautiful and calming, as evidenced by the green living wall and cascading waterfall in the lobby, which gives way to an aquatic playground with five swimming pools, as well as abundant waterfalls and lagoons. Pros: cultural activities for kids and adults; excellent concierge desk; one adults-only pool. Cons: daily resort and parking fees; a lot going on; crowded pool and common areas. DRooms from: $797 E2365 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali P808/667–2525 wwww.marriott.com a770 rooms XNo Meals.

The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | It’s rare to find a resort that so thoroughly incorporates authentic Hawaiian cultural symbols and traditions into its design, but this deluxe beachfront property in North Kaanapali carries this commitment into its native landscaping and its Puuhonua O Nanea cultural center, which offers displays of artifacts, as well as activities and talks. Pros:”zero-entry” family pool with sandy bottom and water slide; great location for snorkeling and water sports; free shuttle to other Westin resorts. Cons: may be pitched to join time-share club; outside main Kaanapali resort; limited dining options. DRooms from: $891 E45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kaanapali P808/662–6300 wwww.marriott.com a390 units XNo Meals.

p Performing Arts

Drums of the Pacific Luau

FOLK/TRADITIONAL DANCE | FAMILY | By Kaanapali Beach, this luau shines in every category—convenient parking; good food; and a nicely paced program that touches on Hawaiian, Samoan, Tahitian, Fijian, Tongan, and Maori cultures. Some guests get tickled by the onstage audience hula tutorial. The finale features three fire-knife dancers. You’ll feast on delicious Hawaiian delicacies like teriyaki steak, oven-roasted mahi mahi (dolphinfish), and Pacific ahi poke (pickled raw yellowfin tuna, tossed with herbs and seasonings). The dessert spread consists of chocolate and coconut indulgences. An open bar offers beer, seltzer, wine, and standard tropical mixes. EHyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kaanapali P808/667–4727 wdrumsofthepacificmaui.com AFrom $210 per person.

Wailele Polynesian Luau

FOLK/TRADITIONAL DANCE | The oceanfront Aloha Pavilion at the Westin provides a picturesque setting for this Polynesian feast. Seating is family style, and on a first-come basis, although premium tickets get reserved seating and slightly better views. A buffet of traditional dishes such as kalua pork and ahi poke (pickled raw yellowfin tuna salad) precede the dessert spread. The performance showcases stories of the demi-god Maui, traditional costumes, hula kahiko, and a pulse-raising fire-knife dance finale. EThe Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali P808/661–2992 wwestinmauiluau.com AFrom $110 per person CClosed Mon.—also closed Wed. and Fri. except for summer and holidays.

b Shopping

Honolua Surf Company

CLOTHING | FAMILY | If you’re in the market for colorful print shirts and sundresses, including an excellent apparel collection for kids, check out this surf shop. It’s popular with young women and men for surf trunks, sun shirts, casual clothing, and accessories. There are branches in Whalers Village, The Shops at Wailea, and Paia. EWhalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina P808/661–1778 wwww.honoluasurf.com.

Maui Divers Jewelry

JEWELRY & WATCHES | This company has been crafting high-end pearls, coral, and traditional gemstones into jewelry for more than 60 years. It also has a nice collection of Hawaiian heritage pieces. There are branches at Whalers Village and at the Kahului Airport. EWhalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina P808/661–1097 wwww.mauidivers.com.

HWhalers Village

MALL | FAMILY | Chic Whalers Village has wonderful oceanfront restaurants and shops in the heart of Kaanapali. Upscale haunts include Louis Vuitton and Tourneau, and beautyphiles can get their fix at Sephora. Elegant home accessories at Martin and MacArthur and Totally Hawaiian Gift Gallery are perfect Hawaii-made souvenirs, while the many great surf and swimwear shops will prepare you for a day at the beach. Kids will fall in love with the whimsical two-story climbing structure at the lower courtyard. The outdoor mall also offers free weekly entertainment, lei-making classes, and hula lessons; check its website for a complete schedule. E2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali P808/661–4567 wwww.whalersvillage.com.

a Activities

HHula Girl

SAILING | FAMILY | This custom catamaran is one of the slickest and best-equipped boats on the Island, complete with a VIP lounge by the captain’s fly bridge. The initial cost doesn’t include the cooked-to-order meals, but you can choose from a relatively extensive menu that includes filet mignon, daily fish specials, and crème brûlée. If you’re willing to splurge a little for live music, an onboard chef, and upscale service, this is your best bet. From mid-December to early April the cruise focuses on whale-watching. Check-in is in front of Leilani’s restaurant at Whalers Village. EWhalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Kaanapali P808/665–0344, 808/667–5980 wsailingmaui.com A$90.

Napili

5 miles northeast of Kaanapali.

Napili is a peaceful community with a mix of residential neighborhoods and modest but comfortable condominiums and resorts. Here you can find reasonably priced accommodations and dining options that are close to many attractions and world-class beaches.

; Beaches

HNapili Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Surrounded by sleepy condos, this round bay is a turtle-filled pool lined with a sparkling white crescent of sand. Sunbathers love this beach, which is also a terrific sunset spot. The shore break is steep but gentle, so it’s great for bodyboarding and bodysurfing. It’s easy to keep an eye on kids here as the entire bay is visible from everywhere. The beach is right outside the Napili Kai Beach Resort, a popular local-style resort for honeymooners and families, only a few miles south of Kapalua. Amenities: showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; surfing; swimming; snorkeling. E5900 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Napili jLook for Napili Pl. or Hui Dr.

r Restaurants

Aa Roots

$ | VEGETARIAN | FAMILY | The meals at this charming vegan restaurant are almost too gorgeous to eat (don’t be surprised to find edible flowers or a rainbow of fruit adorning your meal). Choose from hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, and smoothies, plus rice bowls piled high with healthy ingredients. Known for: dragon fruit açaí bowl; hearty burritos; locally sourced ingredients. DAverage main: $14 ENapili Plaza Shopping Center, 5095 Napilihau St., Napili P808/298–2499 waarootshi.com CClosed Wed.

The Gazebo Restaurant

$ | DINER | FAMILY | Breakfast is the reason to seek out this restaurant located poolside at the Napili Shores Resort. The food is standard diner fare, but the portions are big, the prices are low, and many folks think the pancakes—with bananas, macadamia nuts, or white chocolate chips—are the best in West Maui. Known for: long but fast-moving lines; create-your-own pancakes; enormous omelets. DAverage main: $13 ENapili Shores Maui, 5315 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Napili P808/669–5621 wwww.facebook.com/pages/Gazebo-Restaurant CNo dinner.

HJoey’s Kitchen

$$ | FILIPINO | Chef–owner Joey Macadangdang, who has been at the helm of fine-dining kitchens for most of his career, brings his good taste to the masses with this unfussy restaurant featuring Filipino, Asian, and American fusion dishes. He’s a longtime champion of local producers, so many of his recipes highlight ingredients grown on Maui. Known for: Filipino cuisine; local ingredients; excellent value. DAverage main: $20 ENapili Plaza Shopping Center, 5095 Napilihau St., Napili P808/214–5590 wjoeyskitchenhimaui.com.

HPapi’s Ohana

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | This small, humble storefront is the place to try one of Maui’s most famous baked goods—the giant King David cinnamon roll. Although there are scones, croissants, and breads on menu, and there’s pizza available most nights, the breakfast pastry is the big draw. Known for: long lines, good for meeting new people; gracious service to the community; friendly, welcoming owners. DAverage main: $9 E3481 Lower Honoapiilani Rd, Lahaina P808/868–2000 wpapisohana.com CClosed Wed., Sat., and Sun.

HSea House Restaurant

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | FAMILY | Built in the 1960s at the Napili Kai Beach Resort, before there were laws forbidding construction so close to the beach, this restaurant is literally footsteps from gorgeous Napili Bay. Wear your beach wrap to breakfast and enjoy the signature oven-baked pancakes or the beautifully delicious Molokai sweet potato egg frittata; the menu also offers fish from Hawaiian waters and fresh local produce. Known for: daily happy hour from 2 to 4:30 pm; sunset views from the lanai; affordable breakfast and lunch. DAverage main: $36 ENapili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd., Napili P808/669–1500 wwww.napilikai.com/dining.

h Hotels

Aston Mahana at Kaanapali

$$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | Though the name claims Kaanapali, this older, 12-story oceanfront condominium complex, where all units have unobstructed panoramic views of the ocean and nearby islands, is actually in quiet, neighboring Honokowai. Pros: private lanai and massive windows great for sunsets and whale-watching; tennis, shuffleboard, and pickleball courts; shell lei and children’s gift on check-in. Cons: furnishings in some units may need updating; no shops or restaurants on property; lacks resort amenities. DRooms from: $519 E110 Kaanapali Shores Pl., Honokowai P808/661–8751, 866/945–4046 wwww.aquaaston.com a215 units XNo Meals.

Mahina Surf

$$$ | APARTMENT | Of the many condo complexes lining the ocean-side stretch of Honoapiilani Highway, this one offers friendly service, a saline oceanfront pool, and affordable units—some with million-dollar views. Pros: oceanfront barbecues; resident turtles hang out on the rocks below; no hidden fees. Cons: rocky shoreline rather than a beach; no housekeeping (and cleaning fee for stays fewer than seven nights); minimum three-night stay. DRooms from: $272 E4057 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy. P808/669–6068, 800/544–0300 wwww.mahinasurf.com a56 units XNo Meals.

The Mauian on Napili Bay

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | If you’re looking for a low-key place with a friendly staff, this small, delightful beachfront property on Napili Bay may be for you. Pros: reasonable rates; on one of Maui’s top swimming and snorkeling beaches; free parking and no resort fees. Cons: small units; some may find motel-like design reduces privacy; few amenities. DRooms from: $299 E5441 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Napili P808/669–6205 wwww.mauian.com a44 rooms XNo Meals.

HNapili Kai Beach Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Spread across 10 beautiful acres along one of Maui’s best beaches, the family-friendly Napili Kai with its “old Hawaii” feel draws a loyal following to its island-style rooms that open onto private lanai. Pros: weekly kids’ hula performances and Hawaiian slack-key guitar concert; fantastic swimming and sunning beach; no resort fees. Cons: not as modern as other West Maui resorts; beach subject to periodic erosion; parking spaces tight for some. DRooms from: $355 E5900 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Napili P808/669–6271 wnapilikai.com a163 units XNo Meals.

OUTRIGGER Honua Kai Resort & Spa

$$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | Two high-rise towers contain these individually owned, eco- and family-friendly units combining the conveniences of a condo with the amenities of a hotel, including concierge service, an on-site restaurant, and an organic gourmet food market run by Oo Farms. Pros: large spacious rooms with full kitchens; upscale appliances and furnishings; beautiful, well-maintained grounds. Cons: sometimes windy; housekeeping every other day; beach is small and rocky, not good for swimming. DRooms from: $700 E130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Honokowai P808/662–2800, 855/718–5789 whawaiivacationcondos.outrigger.com a628 units XNo Meals.

The Resort at Papakea

$$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | All studios and one- and two-bedroom units at this casual, oceanfront condominium complex face the ocean and, because they’re spread out among 11 low-rise buildings on about 13 acres of land, there is built-in privacy and easy parking. Pros: large rooms; lovely garden landscaping; weekly mai tai party. Cons: no beach in front of property; pool can get crowded; busy, family-oriented property. DRooms from: $365 E3543 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Honokowai P808/669–4848 wresortatpapakea.com a364 units XNo Meals.

Sands of Kahana

$$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | Meandering gardens, spacious rooms, and an on-site restaurant distinguish this large condominium complex, where units on the upper floors benefit from the height, with unrivaled ocean views stretching away from private lanais. Pros: restaurant on premises; fitness center, tennis courts, and sand volleyball court; one-, two-, and three-bedroom units available. Cons: may be approached about buying a time-share unit; street-facing units can get a bit noisy; property a bit dated. DRooms from: $494 E4299 Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Kahana P808/669–0400, 855/386–4658 reservations wwww.sandsofkahanaresort.com a196 units XNo Meals.

p Performing Arts

HSlack Key Show: Masters of Hawaiian Music

MUSIC | Grammy-winning musician George Kahumoku Jr. hosts this program on Wednesday, as well as some Saturdays, which features a rotating lineup of the island’s finest slack-key artists as well as other traditional forms of Hawaiian music. The setup at Aloha Pavilion is humble, but you’ll enjoy these beloved musicians in an intimate setting. ENapili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd., Napili P808/249–2125 wslackkeyshow.com.

b Shopping

Farmer’s Market Maui

MARKET | From pineapples to papayas, the produce at this West Maui market is local and flavorful. Prices are good, too. The deli offers hot and cold food items, and colorful tropical flowers and handcrafted items are also available. E3636 Honoapiilani Hwy., across from Honokowai Park, Honokowai P808/669–7004 wwww.farmersmarketsmaui.com.

Kapalua

2½ miles northeast of Napili; 5 miles northeast of Kaanapali; 33 miles northwest of Kahului.

Beautiful and secluded, Kapalua is West Maui’s northernmost resort community. First developed in the late 1970s, it now includes the Ritz-Carlton and Montage Kapalua Bay, posh residential complexes, two golf courses, and the surrounding former pineapple fields. The area’s distinctive shops and restaurants cater to dedicated golfers, celebrities who want to be left alone, and some of the world’s richest folks. In addition to golf, recreational activities include hiking and snorkeling.

Mists regularly envelop the landscape of tall Cook pines and rolling fairways in Kapalua, which is cooler and quieter than its southern neighbors. The beaches here, including Kapalua and D. T. Fleming, are among Maui’s finest.

Beach Safety on Maui ;

Hawaii’s beautiful beaches can be dangerous at times due to large waves and strong currents. Look for posted black and yellow hazard signs warning of high surf, jellyfish, sharks, and other dangers. Be especially cautious at beaches without lifeguards.

Generally, North Shore beaches (including Mokuleia and D. T. Fleming on the west side of the island) can be rough in the winter and not good for swimming or beginner-level water sports. On the south side, large summer swells and Kona storms (which usually occur in winter) can cause strong rip currents and powerful shore breaks.

Swim only when there’s a normal caution rating, never swim alone, and don’t dive into unknown water or shallow breaking waves. If you’re unable to swim out of a rip current, tread water and wave your arms in the air to signal for help.

Even in calm conditions, there are other dangerous things in the water to be aware of, including razor-sharp coral, jellyfish, eels, and the occasional shark. Jellyfish cause the most ocean injuries, and signs are posted along beaches when they’re present. Box jellyfish swarm to Hawaii’s leeward shores 9–10 days after a full moon. Portuguese man-of-war jellyfish are usually found when winds blow from the ocean onto land. Reactions to a sting are usually mild (burning sensation, redness); however, in some cases they can be severe (breathing difficulties). If you are stung, pick off the tentacles, rinse the affected area with water, and apply ice. Seek first aid from a lifeguard if you experience severe reactions.

According to state sources, the chances of getting bitten by a shark in Hawaiian waters are low. To reduce your shark-attack risk:

Swim, surf, or dive with others at beaches patrolled by lifeguards.

Avoid swimming at dawn, dusk, and night.

Don’t enter the water if you have open wounds or are bleeding.

Avoid murky waters, harbor entrances, areas near stream mouths, channels, or steep drop-offs.

Don’t wear high-contrast swimwear or shiny jewelry.

Leave the water quickly and calmly if you spot a shark.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Shuttles and taxis are available from Kahului and West Maui airports. The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, has a resort shuttle within the Kapalua Resort.

; Beaches

D. T. Fleming Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Because the current can be quite strong, this charming, mile-long sandy cove is better for sunbathing than for swimming or water sports. Still, it’s one of the island’s most popular beaches. It’s a perfect spot to watch the spectacular Maui sunsets, and there are picnic tables and grills. Part of the beach runs along the front of the Ritz-Carlton—a good place to grab a cocktail and enjoy the view. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; walking. ERte. 30, Kapalua jAbout 1 mile north of Kapalua.

HKapalua Bay Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Over the years, Kapalua has been recognized as one of the world’s best beaches, and for good reason: it fronts a pristine bay that is good for snorkeling, swimming, and general lazing. Just north of Napili Bay, this lovely sheltered shore often remains calm late into the afternoon, although currents may be strong offshore. Snorkeling is easy here, and there are lots of colorful reef fish. This popular area is bordered by the Kapalua Resort, so don’t expect to have the beach to yourself. Walk through the tunnel from the parking lot at the end of Kapalua Place to get here. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; sunset; swimming. ERte. 30, Kapalua jTurn onto Kapalua Pl.

Mokuleia Bay (Slaughterhouse Beach)

BEACH | The island’s northernmost beach is part of the Honolua-Mokuleia Marine Life Conservation District. “Slaughterhouse” is the surfers’ nickname for what is officially Mokuleia. Weather permitting, this is a great place for bodysurfing and sunbathing. Concrete steps and a railing help you get down the cliff to the sand, but it’s generally a difficult area to access for younger children. The next bay over, Honolua, has no beach but offers one of the best surf breaks in Hawaii. Competitions are sometimes held there; telltale signs are cars pulled off the road and parked in the old pineapple field. Amenities: none. Best for: sunset; surfing; snorkeling. ERte. 30, Kapalua jAt mile marker 32.

r Restaurants

Banyan Tree

$$$$ | ECLECTIC | At this open-air, ocean-view dinner restaurant and lounge, classic Hawaiian recipes combined with Mediterranean cooking techniques result in unique, fresh, coastal cuisine. The Ritz-Carlton resort has an organic garden that provides fresh fruits, herbs, and vegetables utilized in the dishes. Known for: local ingredients; stunning views; island cuisine. DAverage main: $50 EThe Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua P808/669–6200 wwww.banyantreekapalua.com CNo lunch.

HMerriman’s Maui

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | At this restaurant perched above the postcard-perfect Kapalua Bay, chef Peter Merriman highlights Hawaii’s bounty by using fresh seafood and ingredients from local farms. The dinner menu features stunning dishes, including some vegetarian options, that represent both the land and the sea, and there’s also a raw bar. Known for: panoramic ocean views; exceptional wine list; firepit on the lanai. DAverage main: $70 E1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua P808/669–6400 wmerrimanshawaii.com CNo lunch.

Plantation House Restaurant

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | It’s a bit of a drive, but when you get to this beautiful, comfortable restaurant, you’ll find expansive views of the ocean below and the majestic mountains above. Chef Jared Krausen sources as many ingredients as possible locally, offering up an eclectic and elevated menu. Known for: views of Molokai from right at your table; overlooking the Plantation Golf Course; macadamia nut–crusted Hawaiian fish. DAverage main: $50 EPlantation Course Clubhouse, 2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua P808/669–6299 wwww.theplantationhouse.com.

HSansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar

$$$$ | ASIAN | Sansei takes sushi, sashimi, and contemporary Japanese food to a new level. If you’re a fish or shellfish lover, this is the place for you. Known for: award-winning Shrimp Dynamite (tempura shrimp with a garlic masago aioli); panko-crusted ahi (yellowfin tuna) sashimi; inventive rolls and sushi appetizers. DAverage main: $30 E600 Office Rd., Kapalua P808/669–6286 wdkrestaurants.com/sansei-kapalua CNo lunch.

h Hotels

The neighborhoods north of Kaanapali—Honokowai, Mahinahina, Kahana, Napili, and finally, Kapalua—blend almost seamlessly into one another along Lower Honoapiilani Highway. Each has a few shops and restaurants and a secluded bay or two to call its own. Many visitors have found a second home here, at one of the condominiums nestled between beach-access roads and groves of mango trees. You won’t get the stellar service of a resort (except at Kapalua), but you’ll be among the locals here, in a relatively quiet part of the island.

Be prepared for a long commute, though, if you’re planning to do much exploring elsewhere on the island. Kapalua is the area farthest north, but well worth all the driving to stay at the elegant Ritz-Carlton, which is surrounded by misty greenery and overlooks beautiful D. T. Fleming Beach.

The Kapalua Villas Maui

$$$$ | APARTMENT | Set among the 22,000 sprawling acres of the Kapalua Resort, these posh condominiums are named for their locations or offerings—the Golf Villas line the fairways of Kapalua’s Bay Golf Course, the Ridge Villas are perched along a cliff overlooking the ocean, the Bay Villas are at the water’s edge, and the Gold Villas are ultra-luxe. Pros: Individual Unit Choice program lets you see the actual unit before booking; amazing views; network of walking and running trails. Cons: stores, beaches, and restaurants not within walking distance; sometimes windy; small pools. DRooms from: $460 E300 Kapalua Dr., Kapalua P808/665–9170, 800/545–0018 whawaiivacationcondos.outrigger.com a120 villas XNo Meals.

HMontage Kapalua Bay

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | This luxury resort caters to well-heeled travelers who want the comfort and privacy of a residential-style suite combined with resort service and amenities—and here, the elegantly furnished one- to four-bedroom units include gourmet kitchens, in-unit washers/dryers, and the largest lanai to be found. Pros: prime snorkeling; great kids clubs for children and teens; large, well-appointed rooms. Cons: pricey daily parking and resort fees; large property means lots of walking; far from other Maui attractions. DRooms from: $1,400 E1 Bay Dr., Kapalua P808/662–6600 wwww.montage.com/kapaluabay a50 units XNo Meals.

HThe Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua

$$$$ | RESORT | This notable hillside property features luxurious service and an enhanced Hawaiian sense of place, as well as upscale guest rooms and one- and two-bedroom condominium suites that incorporate the rich colors of the surrounding ocean, mountains, and rainforest. Pros: spa, golf, walking trails, and many other activities; AAA 4-Diamond Banyan Tree restaurant will please locavores; many cultural and recreational programs. Cons: can be windy on grounds and at pool; far from major attractions such as Haleakala; daily parking and resort fees. DRooms from: $1,079 E1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua P808/669–6200 wwww.ritzcarlton.com a466 units XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

Alaloa Lounge

LIVE MUSIC | When ambience weighs heavy on the priority list, this spot at the Ritz-Carlton might just be the ticket. Live performances range from jazz to island rhythms on Tuesday through Saturday nights (6–9 pm), and the menu includes locally inspired cocktails and a limited dinner and sushi menu (4–9 pm). Step onto the lanai for that plumeria-tinged tropical air, and gaze at the deep blue of the Pacific. The best sunsets can be viewed from here and, from December to April, enjoy whale-watching while having lunch. EThe Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua P808/669–6200 wwww.ritzcarlton.com.

The South Shore

Blessed by more than its fair share of sun, the southern shore of Haleakala was an undeveloped wilderness until the 1970s, when the sun worshippers found it. Now restaurants, condos, and luxury resorts line the coast from the world-class aquarium at Maalaea Harbor through working-class Kihei to lovely Wailea, a resort community rivaling its counterpart, Kaanapali, on West Maui. Farther south, the road disappears and unspoiled wilderness still has its way.Because the South Shore includes so many fine beach choices, a trip here—if you’re staying elsewhere on the Island—is an all-day excursion, especially if you include a visit to the Maui Ocean Center aquarium in Maalaea. Get active in the morning with exploring and snorkeling, then shower in a beach park, dress up a little, and enjoy the cool luxury of the Wailea resorts. At sunset, settle in for dinner at one of the area’s many fine restaurants.

Maalaea

8 miles southwest of Kahului; 15 miles southeast of Lahaina.

Pronounced “Mah-ah-lye-ah,” this community consists of little more than than a few condos, an aquarium, and a wind-blasted harbor from which tour boats depart—but that’s more than enough for some visitors. Humpback whales seem to think Maalaea is tops for meeting mates, and green sea turtles treat it like their own personal spa, regularly seeking appointments with cleaner wrasses in the harbor. Surfers revere this spot for “freight trains,” reportedly among the world’s fastest waves.

A small Shinto shrine stands at the shore here, dedicated to the fishing god Ebisu Sama; it’s the world’s only remaining Shinto fishing shrine outside of Japan. Across the street, a giant hook often swings heavy with the sea’s bounty, proving the worth of the shrine. At the end of Hauoli Street (the town’s sole road), a small community garden is sometimes the site of traditional Hawaiian ceremonies. There’s not much else, but the few residents here like it that way.

s Sights

Maalaea Harbor

MARINA/PIER | FAMILY | With so many good reasons to head out onto the water, this active little harbor is quite busy. Many snorkeling and whale-watching excursions depart from here. After the fires in Lahaina destroyed the island’s most popular harbor, many boating excursions have moved to Maalaea, including the Expeditions Maui ferry to Lanai.

There was a plan to expand the facility, but surfers argued that would have destroyed the world-renowned surf breaks. The elusive spot to the left of the harbor, called “freight train,” rarely breaks, but when it does, it’s said to be the fastest wave anywhere. Shops, restaurants, and the Maui Ocean Center aquarium front the harbor, and offerings continue to increase, making this a nice place to spend the afternoon. E101 Maalaea Boat Harbor Rd., off Honoapiilani Hwy., Maalaea.

HMaui Ocean Center

AQUARIUM | FAMILY | You’ll get a full introduction to the sea life that makes Hawaii special at this aquarium, which focuses on creatures of the Pacific. One highlight is the acrylic tunnel that runs through the 750,000-gallon Open Ocean tank, providing an up-close, underwater look at more than 50 marine species, including sharks and stingrays. Shallow Reef and Living Reef exhibits enlighten you on the coral ecosystem, and a whale exhibit has interactive learning stations and a dome theater that uses 3D technology to give you a mesmerizing humpback-whale’s-eye-view. Cultural exhibits focus on the First Hawaiians and their relationships with the sea and on the history of Kahoolawe, a neighboring island that can be seen just across the Alalakeiki Channel.

Although it’s not an enormous facility, you should allow two hours or so to explore it all. The center is part of a complex of retail shops and restaurants overlooking the harbor. Enter from Honoapiilani Highway as it curves past Maalaea Harbor. lThe aquarium’s gift shop is one of the best on Maui for artsy souvenirs and toys. E192 Maalaea Rd., off Honoapiilani Hwy., Maalaea P808/270–7000 wmauioceancenter.com A$50.

r Restaurants

HSeascape Restaurant

$$ | SEAFOOD | FAMILY | Maui Ocean Center’s signature restaurant is a great choice for seafood (aquarium admission is not required to dine here) and offers harbor and ocean views from its open-air perch. Although the restaurant promotes heart-healthy cuisine—with dishes made using sustainable seafood and canoe plants (i.e., those brought to Hawaii by early Polynesian explorers) like taro, bananas, and ulu—you can still enjoy an indulgent dessert or a drink from the well-priced cocktail menu. Known for: certified “ocean-friendly restaurant”; friendly service; excellent vegan options. DAverage main: $26 EMaui Ocean Center, 192 Maalaea Rd., Maalaea P808/270–7000 wmauioceancenter.com/dine CNo dinner.

p Performing Arts

Pride of Maui

FOLK/TRADITIONAL DANCE | A 65-foot catamaran built specifically for Maui’s waters, the Pride of Maui has a spacious cabin for live entertainment, a dance floor, and a large upper deck for unobstructed sightseeing. Evening cruises include Polynesian dance performances, top-shelf cocktails, and an impressive spread that’s cooked onboard and includes baby back ribs, stir-fried vegetables, and shoyu chicken, plus seasonal desserts. EMaalaea Harbor, 101 Maalaea Boat Harbor Rd., Maalaea P808/242–0955 wwww.prideofmaui.com AFrom $99.

Kihei

12 miles south of Kahului; 9 miles southeast of Maalaea.

Traffic lights and shopping malls may not fit your notion of paradise, but Kihei also offers dependably warm sun, excellent beaches, and a front-row seat to marine life of all sorts. In addition, the town’s relatively inexpensive condos and excellent restaurants make a great home base for island visits.

County beach parks, such as Kamaole I, II, and III, have lawns, showers, and picnic tables.

lRemember: beach park or no beach park, the public has a right to the entire coastal strand, but not to cross private property to get to it.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Kihei is an easy 25-minute ride south of Kahului Airport, easily accessed via the four-lane Maui Veteran’s Highway (Route 311). Once there, if you plan to plant yourself at the water’s edge for most of your vacation, a car may not be necessary, especially if you’re staying at a hotel or condo within walking distance of Kihei’s fabulous beaches. For those wanting to explore beyond the beach, renting a car is a good idea.

s Sights

HHawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary

WILDLIFE REFUGE | FAMILY | This nature center sits in prime humpback-viewing territory. Whether the whales are here or not, the education center is a great stop for youngsters curious to know more about underwater life and for anyone eager to gain insight into the cultural connection between Hawaii and its whale residents. Interactive displays and informative naturalists explain it all, including the sanctuary that acts as a breeding ground for humpbacks. Throughout the year, the center hosts activities that include talks, labs, and volunteer opportunities. The sanctuary itself includes virtually all the waters surrounding the archipelago. lJust outside the visitor center is the ancient Koieie fishpond; it is a popular place for locals to bring their children to wade in the water. E726 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–2818, 800/831–4888 whawaiihumpbackwhale.noaa.gov AFree CClosed weekends.

Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge

WILDLIFE REFUGE | FAMILY | Natural wetlands have become rare in the Islands, so the 700 acres of this reserve attract migratory birds, such as Hawaiian coots and long-legged Hawaiian stilts that casually dip their beaks into the shallow waters as traffic shuttles by; it’s also home to other wildlife. The visitor center provides a good introduction, and interpretive signs on the ½-mile elevated boardwalk, which stretches along the coast by North Kihei Road, explain the journey of the endangered hawksbill turtles and how they return to the sandy dunes year after year. The boardwalk includes ramps that lead to the adjacent beach so you can explore tidal pools. Note that there’s no restroom at the boardwalk. EMokulele Hwy., mile marker 6, Kihei jMain entrance on Mokulele Hwy. P808/875–1582 wwww.fws.gov/refuge/kealia-pond AFree CVisitor center closed weekends.

; Beaches

Kalama Park

BEACH | FAMILY | Stocked with grills and picnic pavilions, this 36-acre beach park is great for families. With its extensive lawns and sports fields, it attracts volleyball, basketball, baseball, and tennis players, and it also has a playground, skateboard park, and roller hockey rink. The beach itself is all but nonexistent, but swimming is fair—though you must brave the rocky steps down to the water. If you aren’t completely comfortable with this entrance, stick to the burgers and bocce ball. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: partiers. E1900 S. Kihei Road, Kihei jAcross from Kihei Kalama Village.

Kamaole I, II, and III

BEACH | FAMILY | Three steps from South Kihei Road are three golden stretches of sand that are locally, and quite disrespectfully, according to Native Hawaiians, known as “Kam” I, II, and III. Although they’re separated by outcroppings of dark, jagged lava rocks, you can walk the entire collective length of them if you’re willing to get your feet wet. In the morning, the water can be as still as a lap pool, so the swimming is great. All three stretches also have lifeguards and wheelchair ramps.

The northernmost of the trio, Kamaole I (across from the ABC Store—important to know if you forget your reef-safe sunscreen) has a small parking area, a volleyball court, and a lawn; it’s also the only beach on Maui with a beach-access chair for people with mobility issues. Kamaole II is nearly identical except that it has no parking lot or lawn. The last stretch, the one with all the people on it, is 10-acre Kamaole III, a great family beach, with a playground and barbecue grills. The kite-flying here is good, and the terrific breaks attract beginning bodysurfers. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunsets; surfing; swimming; walking. ES. Kihei Rd., between Alli Ke Alanui and Hale Kamaole Condominiums, Kihei P808/270–6136 for beach wheelchair availability.

HKeawakapu Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Everyone loves Keawakapu, with its long stretch of golden sand, near-perfect swimming, and views of Puu Olai cinder cone. It’s great fun to walk or jog this beach south into Wailea, as it’s lined with over-the-top residences. It’s best here in the morning—the winds pick up in the afternoon (beware of sandstorms). Keawakapu has three entrances: one is at the Mana Kai Maui resort (look for the blue “Shoreline Access” sign); the second is directly across from the parking lot on Kilohana Street (the entrance is unmarked); and the third is at the dead end of Kihei Road. Toilets are portable. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming; walking. ES. Kihei Rd., near Kilohana St., Kihei.

r Restaurants

HKihei Caffe

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | This unassuming but popular spot across the street from Kalama Beach Park has a breakfast menu that runs the gamut from healthy yogurt-filled papaya to the local classic loco moco, with two eggs, ground beef patty, rice, and brown gravy. Unique menu items include corned beef hash and catfish at breakfast and a calamari sandwich at lunch. Known for: killer cinnamon rolls; enormous portions; breakfast served all day. DAverage main: $17 E1945 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–2230 wkiheicaffe.com CNo dinner.

The Plate Lunch Tradition r

To experience island culture firsthand, take a seat at one of Hawaii’s ubiquitous “plate lunch” eateries, where you’ll be served a segmented plate piled with a protein—usually in an Asian-style preparation, like beef teriyaki—two scoops of rice, a scoop of macaroni salad, and maybe a pickled vegetable condiment. On the sugar plantations, immigrant workers from many different countries ate together in the fields, sharing food from their kaukau tins, the utilitarian version of the Japanese bento (a divided box filled with savory items). From this stir-fry of people came the vibrant Pidgin language and its equivalent in food: the plate lunch.

At beaches and public parks you will probably see locals eating plate lunches from nearby restaurants, stands, or trucks. Favorite combos include deep-fried chicken katsu (rolled in Japanese panko flour and spices), marinated beef teriyaki, and miso butterfish. Saimin, a noodle soup with Japanese fish stock and Chinese red-tinted barbecue pork, is a distinctly local medley. Koreans have contributed spicy barbecue kalbi ribs, often served with chili-laden kimchi (pickled cabbage or, sometimes, cucumber). Portuguese bean soup and tangy Filipino pinakbet (a mixed-vegetable dish with eggplant, okra, and bitter melons in fish sauce) are also favorites. The most popular contribution to this genre is the Hawaiian plate, featuring laulau, a mix of meat and fish and young taro leaves, wrapped in ti leaves and steamed, kalua pork and cabbage, lomi lomi salmon, and chicken long rice, along with haupia (coconut pudding) for dessert.

HMaui Brewing Company

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Spanning more than 5 acres, the flagship location of Maui Brewing Company includes a restaurant, brewery, tasting room, gift shop, and outdoor space featuring backyard games and a garden. Craft pizzas, burgers, salads, and more highlight a lively menu, as do craft cocktails made with Kupu Spirits that are distilled on-site. Known for: boozy “sloshies” from MBC’s Kupu Spirits; spacious venue with open-air setting; lively bar scene separate from the dining area. DAverage main: $17 E605 Lipoa Parkway, Kihei P808/201–2337 wwww.mbcrestaurants.com.

Monsoon Bar & Grill

$$ | INDIAN | This authentic Indian restaurant offers stunning ocean views and appetizers like papadum chips and samosas served with homemade chutneys. There are 10+ breads—naan and more, including a gluten-free option—that come hot from the tandoori oven, along with mix-and-match curries, lots of vegetarian and vegan selections, kebabs, and biryanis. Known for: house-made vegan ice cream; covered, open-air setting; full bar with ocean view. DAverage main: $23 EMenehune Shores, 760 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/875–6666 wmonsoonmaui.com CNo lunch.

Roasted Chiles

$$ | MEXICAN | This family-run restaurant serves authentic flavors from Mexico City and just about everything—from the furniture to the artisanal plates on the wall—has been brought directly from Mexico as well. All menu items are made in-house—try Grandma’s classic chicken mole recipe, which packs in more than 25 ingredients. Known for: 40-plus tequila options; creamy langostino enchiladas; welcoming atmosphere. DAverage main: $23 E1279 S. Kihei Rd., Suite 122, Kihei P808/868–4357 wroastedchileshawaii.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

South Shore Tiki Lounge

$$ | AMERICAN | This tiki bar—tucked into Kihei Kalama Village—serves burgers, sandwiches, and delicious specialty pizzas that are crafted from scratch with sauces made from fresh Roma tomatoes and Maui herbs. Known for: kitchen open until 10 pm; live music every day; late-night dancing under the gaze of the lounge’s namesake tiki. DAverage main: $18 EKihei Kalama Village, 1913-J S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/874–6444 wwww.southshoretiki.com.

Three’s Bar & Grill

$$$ | ECLECTIC | The name of the restaurant comes from the three young chefs who each have a distinctive culinary style (Hawaiian, Southwestern, and Pacific Rim), but somehow it all works. The space is as big as the menu—there are salads, burgers, steaks, and fresh fish, as well as a raw bar with sushi and hand rolls—with three separate dining areas, plus an outdoor patio. Known for: kalua pork quesadilla; daily happy hour with some killer deals; hurricane fries tossed in sriracha aioli. DAverage main: $30 E1945-G S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–3133 wthreesbarandgrill.com.

h Hotels

If you’re a beach lover, you won’t find many disadvantages to staying in Kihei. A string of welcoming beaches stretches from tip to tip. Snorkeling, bodyboarding, and barbecuing find their ultimate expression here. Affordable condos line South Kihei Road; however, some find the busy traffic and the strip-mall shopping distinctly un-Maui and prefer quieter hideaways.

Aston Maui Hill

$$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | Take in sweeping views of the ocean and Haleakala from the large lanai of the one- to three-bedroom units at this sprawling, well-maintained property just outside the swanky Wailea Resort. Pros: great option for large groups needing multiple units; no resort or parking fees; spacious layout makes property seem less crowded. Cons: decor may seem dated; units are not handicapped-accessible; stairs and walking distances may be challenging to guests with mobility issues. DRooms from: $399 E2881 South Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–6321, 855/945–4044 wwww.aquaaston.com a140 units XNo Meals.

Kamaole Sands

$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | This South Kihei property sits across the street from Kamaole III beach and is perfect for active families. Pros: pleasant grounds and well-maintained units; elevators, unlike many low-rise condos; free assigned parking. Cons: large cleaning fee; lack of diversity among building facades; older property. DRooms from: $269 E2695 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/270–1200, 877/367–1912 wwww.castleresorts.com/maui a400 units XNo Meals.

Kohea Kai Resort Maui

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Located across the beach and in the quieter north end of Kihei, this relaxed, family-friendly property has 26 units—some with kitchens and kitchenettes—that range from standard rooms to three-bedroom, two-bath penthouses. Pros: no resort or parking fees; no minimum stay; free Wi-Fi and beach toy use. Cons: small pool; located next to busy South Kihei Road; most rooms lack views. DRooms from: $298 E551 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–1261 wwww.koheakai.com a26 units XNo Meals.

HLuana Kai Resort

$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | If you don’t need everything to be totally modern, consider setting up house at this great value condominium-by-the-sea. Pros: meticulously landscaped grounds; excellent management team; free parking. Cons: no elevators; no maid service; a/c only available in some units for an additional fee. DRooms from: $229 E940 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–1268 wluanakai.com a113 units XNo Meals.

Food Shopping for Renters b

West Maui

Safeway. After the wildfires, this was one of the only major grocery stores on the west side of the island, sitting just outside of the burn zone. It offers an array of national and local brands, a deli, and a very impressive beer, liquor, and wine selection, including many local options. Safeway is a member of the Randall’s, Albertson’s, Tom Thumb, etc. family, and with Hawaii grocery prices you’ll want to use your membership discounts as much as possible. The grocery chain has four stores on the island. ELahaina Cannery Mall, 1221 Honoapiilani Hwy., Lahaina P808/667–4392.

South Shore

Safeway. Find everything you could possibly need at this 24-hour supermarket, located in the Piilani Village Shopping Center. There’s also a deli, prepared-foods and seafood section, and bakery. E277 Piikea Ave., Kihei P808/891–9120 wwww.safeway.com.

Times Supermarket. This locally owned and operated grocery store chain is a community staple on Maui, with an outstanding seafood counter, locally made products, bakery, and a full grocery selection. E1310 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei wtimessupermarkets.com.

Central Maui

Safeway. Located a minute from Kahului Airport, this gigantic 24-hour supermarket has all the essentials, and then some. The deli, prepared foods, seafood sections, and bakery are all fantastic. There’s a good wine selection, tons of produce, and a flower shop where you can treat yourself to a fresh lei. E1090 Hookele St., Kahului P808/359–2970 wsafeway.com.

Whole Foods Market. This busy supermarket carries local organic produce, and the seafood, bakery, beer and wine, and meat offerings are exceptional. The pricey prepared foods—including pizza, sushi, a salad bar, Asian bowls, and Mexican fare—attract crowds. E70 E. Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului P808/872–3310 wwholefoodsmarket.com.

Upcountry

Foodland. This branch of the local supermarket chain at the Pukalani Terrace Center has prepared foods, a deli, fresh sushi, local produce, and a good seafood section. Sign up for a Maikai Rewards card for deep (and necessary) savings. E55 Pukalani St., Pukalani P808/572–0674 wfoodland.com.

Pukalani Superette. Stop at this family-owned store on your way up or down Haleakala for local produce, meat, flowers, and made-in-Maui products. E15 Makawao Ave., Pukalani P808/572–7616 wpukalanisuperette.com.

Mana Kai Maui

$$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | You simply cannot get any closer to gorgeous Keawakapu Beach than this unsung hero of South Shore hotels, offering both renovated hotel rooms and condos that may be older than those of its competitors but are well priced and have marvelous ocean views, especially during the winter humpback whale season. Pros: arguably the best beach on the South Shore; good for families; free reserved parking. Cons: older property; interior design might not appeal to discerning travelers; some rooms are small. DRooms from: $485 E2960 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–1561, 800/525–2025 wwww.manakaimaui.com a98 units XNo Meals.

Maui Kamaole

$$$$ | APARTMENT | These one- and two-bedroom condos—some with ocean views—lie across the street from one of Maui’s best beach parks, Kamaole III, and the property has tropical gardens, two tennis courts, two pools (one in a grotto with a waterfall), a whirlpool spa, and barbecue grills. Pros: great location in sunny Kihei; no resort fee; free parking. Cons: no elevators in two-story buildings; four-night minimum; high cleaning fee. DRooms from: $420 E2777 S. Kihei Rd, Kihei P808/879–2778, 800/844–0606 wwww.mauikamaole.com a316 condos XNo Meals.

Pineapple Inn

$$ | B&B/INN | Entry to the property, which is in a residential area, is through a courtyard overflowing with colorful flowers and featuring a koi pond. Pros: no resort fees; resort-quality furnishings; well-stocked mini-refrigerator. Cons: rest of neighborhood not as well maintained; short drive to the beach; some traffic noise from nearby highway. DRooms from: $249 E3170 Akala Dr., Kihei P808/298–4403 wwww.pineappleinnmaui.com a5 units XFree Breakfast.

What a Wonderful World B&B

$$ | B&B/INN | Convenient, comfortable, and affordable, this Polynesian-style pole house provides a good base for exploring the area, as it’s only a ½-mile from beaches, five minutes from golf courses, and close to restaurants and shopping. Pros: no minimum night stays outside of high season; everything needed to have fun is here, from books and beach toys to blankets for sunrise at Haleakala; no cleaning fees. Cons: owner’s dogs on premises; slightly hard to find in the neighborhood; no resort amenities. DRooms from: $215 E2828 Umalu Pl., Kihei P808/870–2191 wamauibedandbreakfast.com a4 units XFree Breakfast.

n Nightlife

Kahale’s Beach Club

BARS | If you’re looking for a genuine dive bar, this is the place. The bartenders are friendly, and you’ll find plenty of locals to talk story with. Just be sure to mind your manners: classic dive-bar fistfights have, on occasion, been known to break out here. E36 Keala Pl., Kihei P808/215–9939 wkahales.com.

Life’s a Beach

BARS | This dive bar brings in a young bunch looking to par-tay. A lively rotation of events and entertainment keeps the good times rolling, including live island-style music, guest bands, karaoke six evenings a week, and open-mic nights. A casual Mexican-food menu with great prices keeps the munchies away. E1913 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/891–8010 wwww.mauibars.com.

Vibe Bar Maui

COCKTAIL BARS | This speakeasy-style bar is smack-dab in the middle of Kihei’s nightlife scene, and it stands out for its lineup of specialty cocktails and incredibly friendly staff. It’s the size of a living room, but mixology is given more consideration here than at other venues. E1913 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/891–1011.

b Shopping

Azeka Shopping Center

SHOPPING CENTER | FAMILY | Spread across two complexes on either side of South Kihei Road, this no-frills shopping center is in the heart of Kihei. The mall has more than 50 stores, including a scuba shop for rentals and dive bookings. It also has a gas station, several great takeout and dine-in restaurants, a coffee shop, a post office, and ample free parking. E1279 and 1280 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–5000 wwww.azekashoppingcenter.com.

Kihei Kalama Village

MALL | FAMILY | Encompassing more than 40 specialty shops and restaurants, this area known as “the Triangle” attracts visitors and locals alike. In addition to the brick-and-mortar establishments, there are shaded outdoor stalls selling everything from printed or hand-painted T-shirts and sundresses to jewelry, pottery, wood carvings, fruit, and gaudily painted coconut husks—some, but not all, made by local craftspeople. E1941 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–6610 wwww.kiheikalamavillage.com.

Rainbow Mall

SHOPPING CENTER | FAMILY | Condo guests can do some one-stop shopping at this mall—it offers a barbershop; a hair and nail salon; boutiques that sell clothing, Hawaiian gifts, and local art; plate lunch and other eateries; snorkel rental shop; and a liquor store. E2439 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–1145 wwww.rainbowmall-maui.com.

Wailea

16 miles southeast of Kahului; 5 miles southeast of Kihei.

The South Shore’s resort community, Wailea is slightly quieter and drier than its West Maui sister, Kaanapali. Many visitors cannot pick a favorite, so they stay at both. The luxury of the resorts and the simple grandeur of the coastal views make the otherwise stark landscape an outstanding destination. A handful of perfect little beaches, all with public access, front the resorts; take time to stroll the coastal beach path.

The first resorts were built here in the late 1970s. Soon a cluster of upscale properties sprang up, including the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea and the Fairmont Kea Lani. Check out the Grand Wailea Resort’s chapel, which tells a Hawaiian love story in stained glass.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

From Kahului Airport, take Route 311 (Maui Veteran’s Highway) to Route 31 (Piilani Highway) until it ends in Wailea. Shuttles and taxis are available at the airport.

s Sights

Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve

NATURE PRESERVE | FAMILY | South of Makena State Park, the road fades away into a vast territory of black-lava flows, the result of Haleakala’s last eruption and now a place for exploration. The road passes through the Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve, an excellent place for morning snorkel adventures. All wildlife, vegetation, coral, lava rock formations, and archaeological sites are highly protected under state law, which means that removing or disturbing items is prohibited, as is fishing.

Two miles of coastline and the interior of the reserve are closed so that endangered species have an undisturbed area. You can visit one mile of the reserve’s coastline for a ½-mile hike or snorkeling, from 5:30 am to 7:30 pm. To snorkel Ahihi Bay, park at the reserve’s main lot and follow signage. There is a $5 user fee for non-residents which can be paid with credit or debit card. Be sure to wear mineral sunblocks instead of chemical sunscreens, which kill corals—other sunscreens are now banned on Maui. Adjacent to Ahihi-Kinau is the Keoneoio archaeological district, where the start of the Hoapili Trail can be found. lLimited cell phone service exists at the reserve. EJust before end of Makena Alanui Rd., Wailea wdlnr.hawaii.gov.

HWailea Beach Path

TRAIL | FAMILY | A 1½-mile-long paved beach walk allows you to stroll among Wailea’s prettiest properties, restaurants, and rocky coves. The trail, teeming with joggers in the morning and late afternoon, is landscaped with rare native plants like the silvery hinahina, named after the Hawaiian moon goddess. In winter, keep an eye out for whales. The trail is accessible from Polo Beach as well as from the many Wailea beachfront resorts. Bring your wallet for a treat like banana bread or iced coffee at the resorts’ casual eateries along the path. EWailea Beach, Wailea Alanui Dr., south of Grand Wailea Resort, Wailea.

; Beaches

HMakena Beach State Park (Big Beach)

BEACH | Aquamarine water sparkles off the shore of this 3,000-foot-long, 100-foot-wide stretch of deep golden sand. Indeed, Big Beach—whose more-proper, Native Hawaiian name is Oneloa—is so beautiful that locals lobbied for the creation of a state park to protect it. For a dramatic, sun-drenched beach vista, climb Puu Olai, the steep cinder cone near the first entrance you pass if you’re driving south. About the only time the view here is obscured is in the early afternoon, when the so-called Makena cloud rolls in. zSwim with caution here: the shore drop-off is steep, and swells can be big.

On the other side of the cinder cone is Little Beach, which attracts bodysurfers and other free spirits, some of whom believe that clothing is optional, even though this is technically illegal. Skimboarders catch air at Makena’s third entrance, which is a little tricky to find (it’s just a dirt path with street parking). Access to all the beaches here requires paid parking and an entrance fee for non-resident visitors. Amenities: lifeguards; parking; toilets. Best for: surfing; swimming; walking. EMakena jOff Wailea Alanui Dr. wdlnr.hawaii.gov A$5 admission, $10 parking.

Mokapu and Ulua

BEACH | FAMILY | Look for a little road and public parking lot near the Wailea Beach Resort if you are heading to Mokapu and Ulua beaches. Although there are no lifeguards, families love this place. Reef formations create tons of tide pools for kids to explore, and the beaches are protected from major swells. Snorkeling is excellent at Ulua, the beach to the left of the entrance. Mokapu, to the right, tends to be less crowded. Amenities: parking (free); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. EHalealii Pl., Wailea jBefore Shops of Wailea.

Polo Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Small and secluded, this crescent fronts the Fairmont Kea Lani. Swimming and snorkeling are great here, and it’s a good place for whale-watching. As at Wailea Beach, private umbrellas and chaise lounges occupy the choicest real estate, but there’s plenty of room for you and your towel. There’s a nice grass picnic area, although it’s a considerable distance from the beach. An area pathway is a great spot to jog or to take in awesome views of nearby Molokini and Kahoolawe. Rare native plants grow along the ocean, or makai, side of the path—the honey-sweet-smelling one is naio, or false sandalwood. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. EKaukahi St., Wailea jSouth of Fairmont Kea Lani entrance.

Wailea Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | A road near the Grand Wailea resort takes you to Wailea Beach, a wide, sandy stretch with snorkeling and swimming. If you’re not a guest at the Grand Wailea or Four Seasons, the cluster of private umbrellas and chaise lounges can be a little annoying, but the calm unclouded waters and soft white sand more than make up for this. From the parking lot, walk to the right to get to the main beach; to the left is another, smaller section that fronts the Four Seasons. There are picnic tables and grills away from the beach. Amenities: parking (free); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. EWailea Alanui Dr., Wailea jSouth of Grand Wailea Resort entrance.

Shave Ice and Ice Cream r

The two most critical components of the Islands’ favorite frosty treat—shave ice—are the fineness of the shave and the quality of the syrup. The shave should be almost powdery, like snow. Top that ice with tropical flavors like mango, lilikoi (Hawaiian passion fruit), or guava. A more elaborate option consists of a scoop of vanilla ice cream (and maybe some Japanese adzuki beans) topped by shave ice, syrup, and a drizzle of coconut cream or a sprinkle of li hing mui (Chinese plum) powder for a salty-pungent kick. A great pick is Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice (wululanishawaiianshaveice.com), which has shops all over Maui. The Kihei location is near sister company Sugar Beach Bake Shop (E61 S. Kihei Rd. P808/757–8285 wsugarbeachbakeshop.com)

Prefer ice cream on its own? Maui’s own Roselani has been made in Wailuku since 1932. Look for its line of Tropics flavors (haupia, or coconut pudding, is a bestseller) in Maui supermarkets. Top South Shore ice cream parlors include Hula Cookies & Ice Cream (E300 Maalaea Rd., Maalaea P808/243–2271 whulacookies.com), Maui Gelato and Waffles (E2395 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/419–6213), and Maui Sweet Shoppe (E1819 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/214–5151 wwww.mauisweetshoppe.com).

r Restaurants

Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante

$$$$ | ITALIAN | Perched on a bluff above Wailea Beach, this outdoor Italian eatery at the Four Seasons Resort Maui is Wailea’s only oceanfront restaurant. A recent remodel adds contemporary design elements inspired by the local environment and a new menu that combines coastal Italian flavors with Maui’s ocean ingredients. Known for: romantic ambience; innovative cocktails including Piemonte Sour and Pasta Water Martini; Amaro experts and flights. DAverage main: $60 EFour Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr. P808/874–8000 wwww.fourseasons.com/maui.

Humuhumunukunukuapuaa

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | This Polynesian-style, thatch-roof, open-air restaurant “floats” atop a saltwater lagoon, which gives it an exotic romantic feel that’s suited for special occasions. The restaurant is named for Hawaii’s state fish, so it’s wise to try at least one seafood dish (maybe one of the seafood towers). Known for: wide variety of seafood; private lagoon dining option; seasonal, farm-to-table dishes. DAverage main: $52 EGrand Wailea, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr. P808/875–1234 wwww.grandwailea.com CNo lunch.

HKaana Kitchen

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | This signature restaurant at the stylish Andaz Maui at Wailea resort has it all—ingredients sourced from the islands, a marvelous wine list, stellar service, and spectacular views from every table. The whole space has been masterfully designed with a gorgeous exhibition kitchen wrapped by indoor and outdoor seating. Known for: romantic setting for sunset dining; most ingredients locally sourced; plantation flavors with a modern twist. DAverage main: $44 EAndaz Maui at Wailea, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/879–1234 wwww.hyatt.com/andaz CNo lunch.

Monkeypod Kitchen

$$$ | ECLECTIC | The wooden surfboards hanging above the bar and surf videos playing in the background create a decidedly chill vibe at this buzzing restaurant, the creation of Hawaii celebrity-chef Peter Merriman. He offers a menu that highlights local bounty, with such standout dishes as poke tacos, lobster deviled eggs, and wood-fired pizzas. Known for: fun cocktails such as Monkeypod mai tai; live music three times daily; pecan-crusted mahi mahi (dolphinfish). DAverage main: $30 E10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea P808/891–2322 wmonkeypodkitchen.com.

HMorimoto Maui

$$$$ | ASIAN |”Iron Chef” Masaharu Morimoto’s eponymous restaurant, located at the Andaz Maui resort, has some of Maui’s most creative presentations and, arguably, some of its best food. Poolside tables that sit under the stars, a bustling dining room, and a sushi bar all make it a lively choice, but the food is ultimately the reason to go. Known for: incredible sake selection; signature Morimoto dishes; knowledgeable servers. DAverage main: $64 EAndaz Maui at Wailea, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/243–4766 wwww.morimotomaui.com.

HNick’s Fishmarket Maui

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | This elegant eatery at the Fairmont Kea Lani sources the freshest fish possible, and often has beautifully prepared offerings, like opakapaka (pink snapper), that other seafood restaurants don’t. The evening tiki-torch-lit view of palm trees and the hotel pool is enchanting, as is the atmospheric bar area. Known for: strawberries panzini dessert (flambéed with Grand Marnier); outstanding levels of service; good selection of gluten-free options. DAverage main: $55 E4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/879–7224 wnicksfishmarketmaui.com CNo lunch.

HPita Paradise Mediterranean Bistro

$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Don’t be fooled by its playful name—this place serves high-quality food that befits its chic surroundings. This restaurant’s owner is a fisherman himself, so you know the fish here is the freshest available. Known for: Mediterranean chicken pita; baklava ice-cream cake with Roselani ice cream; lamb gnocchi, made in-house. DAverage main: $24 EWailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Gateway Pl., A-108, Wailea P808/879–7177 wpitaparadisehawaii.com.

Spago

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | It’s a marriage made in Hawaii heaven—the California cuisine of celebrity-chef Wolfgang Puck combined with Maui flavors and served lobby-level and oceanfront at the luxurious Four Seasons Resort Maui. Try the spicy ahi (yellowfin tuna) poke in sesame miso cones to start, and then see what the chef can do with some of the island’s fantastic fish. Known for: exceptional wine list; showstopping desserts; sunset views from the patio. DAverage main: $79 EFour Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/879–2999 wwolfgangpuck.com CNo lunch.

HTommy Bahama

$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | It’s more “island-style” than Hawaii-style—and yes, it’s a chain—but the food is consistently great, the service is filled with aloha, and the ambience is island refined. The cocktails are among the best and most creative on Maui and include well-priced non-alcoholic options. Known for: Chilean sea bass; filet mignon prepared in a variety of ways; festive bar scene. DAverage main: $40 EThe Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/875–9983 wwww.tommybahama.com CClosed Mon.

h Hotels

Warm, serene, and luxurious, Wailea properties are more focused on ambience, thoughtful details, and natural scenery than on “action” like resorts in West Maui. Nightlife is pretty much nil, save for a few swanky bars. However, you have your choice of sandy beaches with good snorkeling. Farther south, Makena is a little less developed. Expect everything—even bottled water—to double in price when you cross the line from Kihei to Wailea.

HAndaz Maui at Wailea Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | Sophisticated travelers and romance-seeking couples will swoon at the sleek luxury of this eco-friendly, beachfront resort. Pros: outstanding service and dining; one-of-a-kind resort on Maui; free shuttle service around Wailea. Cons: rooms on the small side; not the best resort for families; slick design style might feel cold to some. DRooms from: $1,033 E3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/573–1234 wwww.hyatt.com/andaz a321 units XNo Meals.

Fairmont Kea Lani Maui

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Gleaming white spires and tiled archways are the hallmark of this stunning resort that’s particularly good for families with its spacious suite and villa options. Pros: all rooms are suites; 22,000-square-foot water complex; on almost-private Polo Beach. Cons: noisy families at play may be a turnoff for some; daily resort and parking fees; lounge chairs in high demand. DRooms from: $1,089 E4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/875–4100, 866/540–4456 wwww.fairmont-kea-lani.com a450 suites XNo Meals.

HFour Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY |”Impeccably stylish” and “extravagant” describe most Four Seasons properties, and this elegant one fronting Wailea Beach is no exception, with its beautiful courtyards and luxuries such as 24-hour room service, twice-daily housekeeping, excellent restaurants, on-site spa, and adults-only serenity pool with outstanding views. Pros: no resort fee; complimentary kids’ club, snorkeling, tennis, and cultural activities; great shopping and local crafts and artwork market. Cons: adults-only pool chairs fill up fast; a bit ostentatious for some; facilities can seem crowded. DRooms from: $1,045 E3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/874–8000, 800/311–0630 wwww.fourseasons.com/maui a383 rooms XNo Meals.

Grand Wailea, a Waldorf Astoria Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY |”Grand” is no exaggeration for this opulent, sunny, 40-acre resort that’s wildly entertaining due to its elaborate water features such as the Wailea Activity Pool with enclosed “lava tube,” slides, caves, a Tarzan swing, and the world’s only water elevator. Pros: on beautiful Wailea Beach; offers a large selection of cultural programs; many shops. Cons: daily resort and parking fees; sprawling property can be difficult to traverse; limited poolside chairs. DRooms from: $1,222 E3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/875–1234, 800/888–6100 wwww.grandwailea.com a776 rooms XNo Meals.

Makena Surf

$$$$ | APARTMENT | For travelers who’ve done all there is to do on Maui and just want simple but luxurious relaxation at a condo that spills onto a private beach, this is the spot. Pros: away from it all, yet still close enough to “civilization”; great snorkeling right off the beach; laundry facilities in every unit and daily housekeeping. Cons: too secluded and “locked-up” for some; split-level units may be difficult for guests with mobility issues; check-in at a different location. DRooms from: $964 E4850 Makena Alanui, Makena P808/891–6200 guest services, 800/367–5246 reservations wwww.destinationhotels.com a105 units XNo Meals.

Polo Beach Club

$$$$ | APARTMENT | Lording over a hidden section of Polo Beach, this wonderful, older, eight-story rental property’s charm somehow manages to stay under the radar. Pros: ocean-view grills and herb garden you can pick from; beautiful beach fronting the building; daily housekeeping. Cons: some may feel isolated; split-level units potentially challenging for those with impaired mobility; check-in at a different location. DRooms from: $809 E4400 Makena Alanui Rd., Makena P808/891–6200 guest services, 808/495–4491 reservations wwww.destinationhotels.com a71 units XNo Meals.

HWailea Beach Resort – Marriott, Maui

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | This resort, which sits closer to the crashing surf than most in Wailea, delivers not only dramatic views but also luxurious amenities and spacious accommodations. Pros: has the only Starbucks in Wailea; short walk to The Shops at Wailea; Te Au Moana Luau four nights a week. Cons: rocky shore that is not quite beachfront; foot traffic on coastal beach walk; daily resort fee and daily self-parking fee (valet also available). DRooms from: $1,175 E3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/879–1922 wwww.marriott.com a547 units XNo Meals.

Wailea Ekahi Village

$$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | Overlooking Keawakapu Beach, this family-friendly vacation resort features studios and one- and two-bedroom suites in low-rise buildings that span 34 acres of tropical gardens and won’t cost your child’s entire college fund. Pros: convenient access to a great beach; en-suite kitchen and laundry facilities; daily housekeeping. Cons: large complex can be tricky to navigate; check-in at a different location; decor in individually owned units may differ. DRooms from: $419 E3300 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/891–6200 guest services, 800/367–5246 reservations wwww.destinationhotels.com a289 units XNo Meals.

Wailea Elua Village

$$$$ | APARTMENT | On Ulua Beach, one of the island’s most beloved snorkeling spots, these upscale one-, two-, and three-bedroom condo suites have spectacular views and 24 acres of manicured lawns and gardens. Pros: easy access to the upscale boutiques and restaurants at The Shops at Wailea; daily housekeeping; on-site naturalist and organic herb garden. Cons: large complex; hard to find your way around; check-in at a different location. DRooms from: $669 E3600 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/891–6200, 800/367–5246 wwww.destinationhotels.com a152 suites XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

HLobby Lounge at Four Seasons Resort Maui

COCKTAIL BARS | This lofty resort’s lobby lounge is perfect when you want live Hawaiian music, a bit of hula, and freshly prepared sushi or other quick bites all in one sitting. The artisanal cocktails are well done and highlight locally distilled spirits and locally harvested or foraged ingredients. The atmosphere is casual chic, the setting is contemporary, and the views—of the Pacific, west Maui, and neighboring Lanai—are classic. Food is served 5–10 pm; cocktails 4–11 pm. EFour Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/874–8000 wwww.fourseasons.com/maui.

p Performing Arts

Luau–Grand Wailea

FOLK/TRADITIONAL DANCE | FAMILY | With Wailea Beach as the backdrop, this colorful, fiery luau features classic dishes such as poi, kalua pig, poke, and haupia, as well as performances that highlight Maui’s legends and showcase traditional ceremonies and music. Hula lessons are also part of the program, making this an interactive experience. EGrand Wailea Resort & Spa, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/875–1234 wwww.grandwailea.com AFrom $275.

HTe Au Moana

FOLK/TRADITIONAL DANCE | FAMILY | The name, which means “ocean tide,” is a nod to the breathtaking backdrop for this luau at Wailea Beach Resort. The tasty family-style dinner covers all of the luau staples including a variety of desserts, and there’s an open bar. Longtime local entertainment company, Tihati Productions, seamlessly intertwines ancient Hawaiian stories and contemporary songs with traditional hula and Polynesian dances, concluding with a jaw-dropping, solo, fire-knife dance. EWailea Beach Resort—Marriott, Maui, 3700 Wailea Alanui, Wailea P877/827–2740 wteaumoana.com AFrom $265.

b Shopping

The Shops at Wailea

MALL | FAMILY | Stylish, upscale, and close to most of the resorts, this mall brings high fashion to Wailea. Luxury brands such as Gucci, Cos Bar, and Tiffany & Co. are represented, as are less expensive chains like Billabong, Lululemon, and Tommy Bahama. Daily events include lei making, ukulele lessons, and hula performances. If you’re peckish, grab some elevated pub food at Pint & Cork, island-style fare at Tommy Bahama Restaurant and Pub, or takeaway from Island Gourmet Markets, which also sells grocery essentials and locally made food products E3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea P808/891–6770 wwww.theshopsatwailea.com.

Wailea Gateway Center

MALL | FAMILY | Located at the top of Wailea, this center is comprised of commercial offices and a handful of fantastic dining options. Although lunch at chef Peter Merriman’s Monkeypod is reason enough to venture here, you might also be enticed by eateries including Pita Paradise, Oao Sushi Bar, and the Market Maui. E34 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea P808/877–7073.

Central Maui

Some visitors bypass Central Maui in favor of towns that cater to fun-in-the-sun activities. However, there’s still plenty to see and do here—from learning to windsurf or kiteboard at Kanaha Beach Park, exploring nature and taking an ice-cold dip in lush Iao Valley, and catching a world-class concert at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center.

Kahului, where you most likely landed when you arrived on Maui, is the industrial and commercial center of the island. West of Kahului is Wailuku, the county seat since 1950 and the most charming town in Central Maui, with some good inexpensive restaurants. Outside these towns are attractions ranging from museums and historical sites to gardens.

You can combine sightseeing in Central Maui with shopping at the Queen Kaahumanu Center, Maui Mall, and Wailuku’s Market Street. This is one of the best areas on the island to stock up on groceries and supplies, thanks to major retailers, including Safeway, Target, and Costco. Note that grocery prices are much higher than on the mainland.

Kahului

3 miles west of Kahului Airport; 9 miles north of Kihei; 31 miles east of Kaanapali; 51 miles west of Hana.

Although it has the island’s largest airport and commercial harbor, Kahului also offers plenty of natural and cultural attractions. The town was developed in the early 1950s to meet the housing needs of the large sugarcane interests here, specifically those of Alexander & Baldwin. The company was tired of playing landlord to its many plantation workers and sold land to a developer who promised to create affordable housing. The scheme worked, and “Dream City,” the first planned city in Hawaii, was born.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

From the airport, take Keolani Place to Route 36 (Hana Highway), which becomes Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului’s main drag. Run by Maui Bus, the Kahului Loop route traverses all of the town’s major shopping centers; the fare is $2.

s Sights

Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | FAMILY | Maui’s largest landowner, A&B was one of the “Big Five” companies that spearheaded the planting, harvesting, and processing of sugarcane. At this museum, historic photos, artifacts, and documents explain the introduction of sugarcane to Hawaii. Exhibits reveal how plantations brought in laborers from other countries, forever changing the islands’ ethnic mix. Although sugarcane is no longer being grown on Maui, the crop was for many years the mainstay of the local economy. You can find the museum in a small, restored plantation manager’s house across the street from the post office and the still-operating sugar refinery, where smoke billows up when the cane is being processed. The museum gift shop sells plantation-themed memorabilia, coffee, and history books. E3957 Hansen Rd., Puunene P808/871–8058 wwww.sugarmuseum.com A$7 CClosed Fri.–Sun.

Maui Nui Botanical Gardens

GARDEN | FAMILY | Hawaiian and Polynesian species are cultivated at this fascinating 7-acre garden, including Hawaiian bananas; local varieties of sweet potatoes and sugarcane; and native poppies, hibiscus, and anapanapa, a plant that makes a natural shampoo when rubbed between your hands. Reserve ahead for the weekly ethnobotany tours. Self-guided tour booklets and an audio tour wand are included with admission (docent tours must be arranged online in advance). E150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului P808/249–2798 wmnbg.org A$10; docent tour $10 CClosed Sun. and Mon.

; Beaches

Kanaha Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Windsurfers, kiteboarders, joggers, and picnicking families like this long, golden strip of sand bordered by a wide grassy area with lots of shade that is within walking distance of Kahului Airport. The winds pick up in the early afternoon, making for the best kiteboarding and windsurfing conditions—if you know what you’re doing, that is. The best spot for watching kiteboarders is at the far left end of the beach. A picnic paired with surf-watching makes a great option for a farewell activity before getting on a departing flight. Amenities: lifeguard; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: walking; windsurfing. EAmala Pl., Kahului jFrom Kaahumanu Ave., turn makai onto Hobron St., then right onto Amala Pl. Drive just over a mile through an industrial area and take any of three entrances into Kanaha.

r Restaurants

Bistro Casanova

$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | As it’s smack-dab in the middle of Kahului, this Mediterranean restaurant is truly a convenient choice for lunch or dinner. The menu features everything from salads to pasta, and the tapas menu (available from 4 to 9 pm) changes weekly and always has an excellent selection of dishes. Known for: paella with saffron rice and scallop linguine; beautiful desserts; perfect place for dinner before heading to the airport. DAverage main: $26 E33 Lono Ave., Kahului P808/873–3650 wbistrocasanova.com CClosed Sun.

Fork & Salad

$ | MODERN AMERICAN | FAMILY | Healthy, fresh, and fast best describe this busy eatery, the second restaurant for chef–owners Jaron Blosser, Cody Christopher, and Travis Morrin (the first being Three’s Bar and Grill in Kihei). You can order a signature salad or create your own with the impressive selection of add-ons, including many grown on Maui. Known for: healthy grab-and-go; locally sourced ingredients; kombucha on tap. DAverage main: $10 EPuunene Shopping Center, 120 Hookele St., Kahului P808/793–3256 wforkandsaladmaui.com.

Fuego Argentinean Steakhouse

$$ | ARGENTINE | An open-air lanai offers a breathtaking view of the golf course and the majestic backdrop of Iao Valley and the West Maui mountains at this fantastic addition to Maui’s culinary scene. The menu takes you on a trip to Buenos Aires, with an assortment of emparedados (sandwiches); house-made chimichurri; and tomahawk, ribeye, sirloin, and skirt steaks, as well as lamb and chicken. Known for: date-night or other special occasion spot; convenient location; bold flavors. DAverage main: $26 E1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului P808/633–4436 wfuegosteakhousemaui.com.

Koho’s Grill and Bar

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | The only full-service restaurant in Maui’s largest shopping center, the well-established Koho’s serves things like sandwiches, burgers, and fried chicken, as well as fajitas and other Mexican dishes. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and there’s a happy “hour” from 2 to 6 pm Tuesday through Saturday. Known for: family friendly; sports bar area; in the same location for more than 35 years. DAverage main: $15 EQueen Kaahumanu Center, 275 W Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului P808/877–5588 wkohosrestaurant.com.

Marco’s Grill & Deli

$$ | ITALIAN | FAMILY | One of the go-to places for airport comers and goers, this popular Italian restaurant also draws a steady crowd of residents, mainly for business lunches. Meatballs, sausages, and sauces are all made in-house, a long list of sandwiches is available all day, and the affordable salads are big enough to share. Known for: gluten-free options; chicken Parmesan; great breakfasts. DAverage main: $18 E444 Hana Hwy., Kahului P808/877–4446 wwww.marcosgrillanddeli.com.

My Thai Maui

$$ | THAI | Don’t be fooled by the casual warehouse setting, as this family-owned and -operated restaurant is one of the best places for Thai food on Maui. Dishes here are made using fresh ingredients, homemade sauces, and imported specialty items, and your food comes out quickly and hot through a self-service window in the open-air dining area. Known for: phenomenal grilled steak; large portions; impressive array of authentic northern Thai dishes. DAverage main: $25 E230 Hana Hwy., Kahului P808/877–8887 wwww.mythaimaui.com.

HTin Roof

$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Top Chef celebrity Sheldon Simeon opened this trendy lunch counter in a small Kahului warehouse, and it’s easy to spot—just look for the line of people waiting in the parking lot. Locals and visitors swarm here for the affordable and ono (delicious) plates of mochiko chicken, pork belly, ulu mac salad, beet box, and garlic shrimp, and although there are only a couple of stools in the restaurant, many people dine on the curb or take their food to-go. Known for: decadent treats such as mochi birthday cake bites; fresh poke bowl; plantation-inspired “kau kau tins”. DAverage main: $10 E360 Papa Pl., Suite Y, Kahului P808/868–0753 wwww.tinroofmaui.com CNo dinner. Closed Sun and Mon.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Momona Bakery and Coffee Shop

$ | BAKERY | FAMILY | Momona is the Hawaiian word for “sweet,” and this place definitely lives up to its name with the variety of flaky treats that are available every morning. The bakery is especially known for its cinnamon rolls and its medialunas, Argentinean croissants with sweet or savory fillings such as Nutella, dulce de leche, custard, lilikoi (passionfruit), or ham and cheese. Known for: something for everyone; delicious hot or iced coffee; sandwiches and avocado toast. DAverage main: $10 E7 E Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului P808/214–3589 wwww.instagram.com/momonabakery.

h Hotels

Courtyard by Marriott Maui Kahului Airport

$$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | At the entrance to Kahului Airport, this hotel offers many amenities, including up-to-date technology throughout, a 24-hour fitness center, a pool, a firepit, and a free shuttle to nearby shops and restaurants. Pros: great for business and pleasure; central location close to the airport and Kanaha Beach; conference and banquet rooms available. Cons: not on the beach; airport and city noise; daily parking fee. DRooms from: $600 E532 Keolani Pl., Kahului P808/871–1800, 877/852–1880 wwww.marriott.com a138 rooms XNo Meals.

Maui Beach Hotel

$$$ | HOTEL | Budget-friendly rates and a central location amid the island’s civic, transportation, and commercial hubs make this two-story bayfront hotel a solid choice. Pros: shuttle to Kahului Airport and central area; great base for exploring all corners of the island; aloha-minded staff. Cons: beach fronting the hotel is uninspiring; parts of property may seem dated; at a busy intersection. DRooms from: $331 E170 Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului P808/877–0051 wwww.mauibeachhotel.com a147 units XNo Meals.

b Shopping

HHi-Tech

CLOTHING | FAMILY | This locally owned shop is a favorite among stylish surfers and landlubbers alike. Stop here immediately after deplaning to stock up on surf trunks, windsurfing gear, bikinis, or sundresses. You can also rent a surfboard or sign up for windsurfing or kiteboarding lessons while you’re at it. You’ll find additional branches in Kihei and Paia. E425 Koloa St., Kahului P808/877–2111 wwww.surfmaui.com.

Maui Coffee Roasters

FOOD | This café and roasting house near Kahului Airport sells 100% Kona, Kau, and Maui coffee from the best coffee farms in Hawaii. Sales associates are very helpful and friendly, and they will ship items. You can get a free cup of joe in a signature to-go cup when you buy a pound of coffee. Order online or call in your food or drink order, and the barista will meet you at the door or bring it to your car! E444 Hana Hwy., Kahului P808/877–2877 wwww.mauicoffeeroasters.com.

Maui Swap Meet

MARKET | FAMILY | Crafts, T-shirts, fresh produce and flowers, and souvenirs that range from authentic to average make this enormous flea market—operating since 1981—the island’s biggest bargain. Vendors selling Maui-made food items or freshly cracked coconuts can be found next to the food trucks serving fresh, affordable, authentic local food. E310 W. Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului jUH Maui College, rear parking lot. P808/244–3100 wwww.mauihawaii.org/maui-shopping/swap-meet.

Pu’unene Shopping Center

MALL | FAMILY | Anchored by a Target store that includes a supermarket, this shopping center near the airport is a convenient place to purchase necessities and groceries after landing on Maui. Other retailers include Ulta, Maui Tacos, Petco, Starbucks, Chik-fil-A, and the popular farm-to-table takeout joint Fork & Salad. E100 Hookele St., Kahului.

Queen Kaahumanu Center

MALL | FAMILY | Maui’s largest shopping center has more than 100 stores and restaurants, a movie theater, and a food court. Its attractive rooftop, with its manta ray–like umbrella shades, is easy to spot. Stop at Camellia Seeds for what locals call “crack seed,” a snack made from dried fruits, or swing by 180 Boardshop for Hawaii-based streetwear like 808 All Day or In4mation. For surf-inspired gear, visit The Foam Company and Shapers. Other stops include Macy’s, PacSun, Bath & Body Works, and American Eagle Outfitters. In addition to its retail-therapy offerings, the mall hosts a creative, monthly lineup of events, including a farmers’ market, concerts, and car shows. E275 W. Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului P808/877–3369 wqueenkaahumanucenter.com.

Wailuku

4 miles west of Kahului; 12 miles north of Kihei; 21 miles east of Lahaina.

Wailuku is peaceful now, although it wasn’t always. Its name means “Water of Destruction,” after the fateful battle in Iao Valley that pitted King Kamehameha the Great against Maui warriors. Wailuku was a politically important town until the sugar industry declined in the 1960s and tourism took hold. Businesses left the cradle of the West Maui mountains and followed the new market (and tourists) to the shores.

Wailuku is home to the county government but has the feel of a town that’s been asleep for several decades. Although continued attempts at gentrification have opened the way for unique new eateries, shops, and galleries, Market Street’s plantation-style buildings still serve as reminders of a bygone era.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Heading to Wailuku from the airport, Hana Highway turns into Kaahumanu Avenue, the main thoroughfare between Kahului and Wailuku. Maui Bus system’s Wailuku Loop stops at shopping centers, medical facilities, and government buildings; the fare is $2.

s Sights

HHale Hoikeike at the Bailey House

HISTORIC HOME | FAMILY | This repository of the largest and best collection of Hawaiian artifacts on Maui includes objects from the sacred island of Kahoolawe. Erected in 1833 on the site of the compound of Kahekili (the last ruling chief of Maui), the building was occupied by the family of missionary teachers Edward and Caroline Bailey until 1888. Edward Bailey was something of a Renaissance man: not only a missionary, but also a surveyor, a naturalist, and an excellent artist. The museum contains missionary-period furniture and displays a number of Bailey’s landscape paintings, which provide a snapshot of the island during his time. The grounds include gardens with native Hawaiian plants and a fine example of a traditional canoe. The gift shop is one of the best sources on Maui for items that are actually made in Hawaii. Before visiting, check the website for current hours of operation. E2375A Main St., Wailuku P808/244–3326 wmauimuseum.org A$10 CClosed Sat.–Mon.

HIao Valley State Monument

STATE/PROVINCIAL PARK | FAMILY | When Mark Twain saw this park, he dubbed it the Yosemite of the Pacific. Yosemite, it’s not, but it is a lovely deep valley with the curious Iao Needle, a spire that rises more than 2,000 feet from the valley floor. You can walk from the parking lot across Iao Stream and explore the thick, jungle-like topography. This park also has some lovely short strolls on paved paths, where you can stop and meditate by the edge of a stream or marvel at the native plants. Mist often rises if it rains, making it even more magical. Be aware that this area is prone to flash flooding; stay out of the water if it’s been raining. Advance reservations are required for out-of-state residents. EWestern end of Rte. 32, Wailuku wgostateparks.hawaii.gov A$5 per person; $10 parking per vehicle.

Kepaniwai Park & Heritage Gardens

CITY PARK | FAMILY | Picnic facilities dot the landscape of this county park, a memorial to Maui’s cultural roots. Among the interesting displays are an early-Hawaiian hale (house), a New England-style saltbox, a Portuguese-style villa with gardens, and dwellings from other cultures, such as China and the Philippines.

The peacefulness here belies the history of the area. In 1790, King Kamehameha the Great from the Island of Hawaii waged a successful bloody battle against Kahekili, the son of Maui’s chief. An earlier battle at the site had pitted Kahekili against an older Hawaii Island chief, Kalaniopuu. Kahekili prevailed, but the carnage was so great that the nearby stream became known as Wailuku (Water of Destruction), and the place where fallen warriors choked the stream’s flow was called Kepaniwai (Damming of the Waters). E870 Iao Valley Rd., Wailuku P808/270–7980 wwww.mauicounty.gov AFree.

Maui Tropical Plantation & Country Store

FARM/RANCH | FAMILY | When Maui’s cash crops declined in importance, a group of visionaries opened an agricultural theme park on the site of this former sugarcane field. The 60-acre preserve offers zip-lining courses, a 40-minute tour, and a tram ride with informative narration covering the growing process and plant types. Children will enjoy activities like coconut husking. You’ll also find an art gallery, a restaurant, and a store specializing in “Made in Maui” products. Don’t leave without checking out the Kumu Cafe and Farm Bar, which offers coffee, tea, brewing supplies, seasonal organic produce, and some of the tastiest papayas. E1670 Honoapiilani Hwy., Waikapu wmauitropicalplantation.com AFree; tour $25.

r Restaurants

A Saigon Cafe

$$ | VIETNAMESE | Locals have been flocking to this off-the-beaten-path gem for years, lured in by the reliably delicious family-style Vietnamese cuisine at decent prices. It’s tucked behind a nondescript overpass—and only recently did management put a sign on the building—but you can’t go wrong with the green papaya salad, mixed fondue, and the make-your-own Vietnamese burritos. Known for: strong cocktails well mixed; authentic Com Tay Cam (rice in a clay pot); known locally as “Jennifer’s”. DAverage main: $19 E1792 Main St., Wailuku P808/243–9560 wasaigoncafe.com.

Cafe O’Lei at the Mill House

$$$ | FUSION | The food is so fresh at this Waikapu standout that you can see the fields where it was grown while seated at your mountain view table. This family-owned restaurant creates rich cuisine from mauka (mountain) to makai (ocean), boasting seasonal produce. Known for: robust happy hour; bold flavors and farm-to-table freshness; ulu and sweet potato enchiladas. DAverage main: $27 E1670 Honoapiilani Hwy., Waikapu P808/500–0553 wmauitropicalplantation.com CClosed Mon.

H808 on Main

$ | AMERICAN | Delicious artisan sandwiches, classic burgers, and signature items make 808 on Main a local favorite. The pupus, cocktails, and draft beers will make you wish the place was open later (10–3 pm). Known for: refreshing house-made strawberry lemonade; fun and friendly atmosphere; tasty fish sandwiches. DAverage main: $16 E2051 Main St., Wailuku P808/242–1111 wwww.808onmain.com CClosed Sun. No dinner.

HSam Sato’s

$ | HAWAIIAN | Open for lunch and dinner, Sam Sato’s is a local favorite for noodles, manju (Japanese pastry filled with sweet bean paste), and plate lunches. The menu includes favorites like “dry noodles,” beef tomato, omelets, and fried rice, and the dry mein, saimin, and chow fun come in different-size portions with add-ins to satisfy every noodle craving; try a teriyaki beef stick or two while you wait for your bowl. Known for: amazing spare ribs; huge portions of flavorful food; affordable local hangout. DAverage main: $8 EThe Millyard, 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku P808/244–7124 cNo credit cards CClosed Sun.

Tiffany’s Maui

$$ | FUSION | The menu at Top Chef Sheldon Simeon’s newest restaurant features “Hawaii classics,” namely a fusion of Korean, Chinese, Japanese, Filipino, and Portuguese flavors. Chef Sheldon has become a culinary ambassador for this diverse cuisine, and the menu here showcases the best of it. Known for: celebrity chef; eclectic menu; authentic flavors. DAverage main: $18 E1424 Lower Main St., Wailuku P808/249–0052 wtiffanysmaui.com.

Coffee and Quick Bites

HBa-Le Sandwiches & Bakery

$ | VIETNAMESE | This popular spot began as a French–Vietnamese bakery on Oahu and has branched into popular small restaurants sprinkled throughout the Islands, with some locations set up as kiosks in malls and others, like this one, as stand-alone spots with a few picnic tables out front. Vietnamese pho (soup laden with seafood or rare beef, fresh basil, bean sprouts, and lime) shares menu space with local-style saimin and plates of barbecue or spicy chicken, beef, pork, or local fish served with jasmine rice. Known for: affordable Vietnamese cuisine; boba teas in fun flavors like taro or pineapple; opakapaka (pink snapper) with garlic shrimp. DAverage main: $10 E1824 Oihana St., Wailuku P808/249–8833 wwww.balewailuku.com CClosed Sun.

HStillwell’s Bakery & Cafe

$ | BAKERY | FAMILY | The desserts on display will surely make you drool at one of Maui’s best bakeries, where every day is cake day, the strawberry Florentines are outrageously good, and the cream horns are renowned. Other more-substantial and equally exceptional breakfast and lunch offerings include everything from mouthwatering pancakes to gourmet sandwiches on house-made bread. Known for: friendly staff who love to share local tips; amazing pies (try the coconut cream); Chinese chicken salad. DAverage main: $12 E1740 Kaahumanu Ave., Wailuku P808/243–2243 wstillwellsbakery.com.

b Shopping

ARTS AND CRAFTS

HMele Ukulele

MUSIC | For a professional-quality, authentic ukulele, skip the souvenir shops. Mele’s handcrafted beauties are made of koa or mahogany and strung and finished by expert craftsmen on the island. Owner Michael Rock has consciously observed the cultural significance and importance of the ukulele to the Hawaiian people and their music by creating instruments for everyone, from kupuna to keiki (grandparents to children). There are also locations at The Shops at Wailea and in Paia. E1750 Kaahumanu Ave., Wailuku P808/244–3938 wmeleukulele.com.

HNative Intelligence

CRAFTS | FAMILY | This store in the heart of Wailuku champions cultural traditions and craftsmanship. It has a curated selection of Hawaiian and Polynesian works of art that include traditional wear, jewelry, weaponry, photography, books, music, hula instruments, and surfboards. E1980 Main St., Wailuku P808/249–2421 wwww.native-intel.com.

CLOTHING

Ha Wahine

CLOTHING | Here, statement Polynesian prints are incorporated into vibrantly colored blouses, pareos (beach wraps), dresses, and aloha shirts. All clothing is designed and made locally, as is most of the jewelry. E52 N. Market St., Wailuku P877/949–0133 wwww.facebook.com/hawahine.

Upcountry

The west-facing upper slope of Haleakala is considered “Upcountry” by locals and is a hidden gem by most accounts. Although this region is responsible for most of Maui’s produce—lettuce, tomatoes, strawberries, sweet Maui onions, and more—it is also home to innovators, renegades, artists, and some of Maui’s most interesting communities. It may not be the Maui of postcards, but some say this is the real Maui and is well worth exploring for at least a day or two.

Upcountry is also fertile ranch land; paniolo (cowboys) still work the historic 18,000-acre Ulupalakua Ranch fields and the 30,000-acre Haleakala Ranch. lTake an agricultural tour and learn more about the Island’s bounty. Lavender and wine are among the offerings.

Up here cactus thickets mingle with purple jacaranda, wild hibiscus, and towering eucalyptus trees. Keep an eye out for pueo, Hawaii’s native owl, which hunts these fields during daylight hours.

A drive to Upcountry Maui from Wailea (South Shore) or Kaanapali (West Maui) can be an all-day outing if you take the time to visit MauiWine and the tiny but entertaining town of Makawao. You may want to cut these side trips short and combine your Upcountry tour with a visit to Haleakala National Park—it’s a Maui must-see. Suppose you leave early enough to catch the sunrise from the summit of Haleakala. In that case, you should have plenty of time to explore the mountain, have lunch in Kula or at Ulupalakua Ranch, and end your day with dinner in Makawao.

Makawao

13 miles southeast of Kahului.

Despite its easygoing pace and small-town feel, Makawao remains the center of Upcountry action. The area is synonymous with the rugged paniolo (cowboy) lifestyle, and cowboys and cowgirls still work the fields and care for the livestock as the generations before have. Festivities abound when the Makawao Rodeo and Parade trots into town, an annual tradition for more than 60 years.

Spend an afternoon in town—centered by the crossroads of Makawao and Baldwin Avenues—browsing upscale clothing boutiques and gift shops or talking to a local artist at one of the many galleries. Of course, no visit to Makawao is complete without a stop at Maui’s famous mom-and-pop landmark, T. Komoda Store and Bakery. Grab a cream puff or two, and don’t forget the butter rolls. On the northwestern outskirts of town, toward the adjacent community of Haliimaile, you’ll find a pineapple plantation, a unique distillery, and a renowned eatery.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

From Kahului, take Route 37 (Haleakala Highway) until you reach Makawao Avenue. Locate the center of Makawao Town by traveling along Makawao Avenue until you reach Baldwin Avenue.

s Sights

Hui Noeau Visual Arts Center

ARTS CENTER | The grande dame of Maui’s visual arts scene, “the Hui,” hosts exhibits that are always satisfying. Located just outside Makawao, the center’s main building is an elegant two-story Mediterranean-style villa designed in 1917 by Hawaii’s architect of the era, C. W. Dickey. Explore the grounds, see locally made products, and experience community enrichment through art. Crafts, drawing, photography, and glass blowing are some of the classes offered. E2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao P808/572–6560 wwww.huinoeau.com AFree; self-guided tour booklet $6 CClosed Sun.

Maui Pineapple Farm and Tour

FARM/RANCH | FAMILY | Pineapple exudes tropical happiness, and it just so happens Maui has the only tour of a working pineapple plantation in the United States. You’ll join a worker on a stroll through the sunny fields and hear all about the especially sweet Maui Gold pineapples, sampling the fruit in various stages of maturity along the way. The best part? Everyone gets a free pineapple at the end! For an extra fee, you can also tour the nearby Haliimaile Distilling Company to learn about its operations and taste Pau Maui Vodka, the world’s only pineapple vodka. Time things right, and you’ll be able to enjoy lunch or dinner at the renowned Haliimaile General Store just across the street from the distillery. E872 Haliimaile Rd., Makawao P808/665–5491 wmauipineappletour.com A$75 pineapple farm; $15 distillery.

r Restaurants

HFreshies Maui

$ | ECLECTIC | While the rest of Makawao Town eases into the day, fuel up with a hearty breakfast at this garden café in the shade of a sprawling Argentinian coral tree. With options like huevos rancheros, French toast, and house-made biscuits and gravy, it feels like Sunday brunch every day. Known for: peaceful setting; vegetarian and vegan options; local and organic ingredients. DAverage main: $13 E3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao P808/868–2350 wfreshiesmaui.com CNo dinner.

HHaliimaile General Store

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | After more than 30 years, chef Beverly Gannon’s first restaurant remains a culinary destination, serving exquisite dishes like Bev’s Famous Crab Pizza, sashimi Napoleon, barbecue pork sandwiches, and the macadamia nut–crusted fresh catch, as well as daily and nightly specials, hand-crafted cocktails, and local beers. The rambling former plantation store has two dining rooms, both of which are usually full, so reservations are encouraged. Known for: Bev Gannon’s classic recipes; exquisite dining in an unlikely location; Hawaii regional cuisine. DAverage main: $42 E900 Haliimaile Rd., Makawao P808/572–2666 whgsmaui.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

Polli’s Mexican Restaurant

$ | MEXICAN | FAMILY | A Makawao staple since 1981 and set in the town’s only intersection, Polli’s is a lively Mexican restaurant that serves up the island’s best fish tacos. The portions are generous, with classic fajitas, burritos, and enchiladas, and there are vegetarian options, too. Known for: fun and friendly atmosphere; huge dishes and family-style dining; tasty mango, strawberry, and lilikoi (Hawaiian passion fruit) margaritas. DAverage main: $16 E1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao P808/572–7808 wwww.pollismexicanrestaurant.com.

Coffee and Quick Bites

HT. Komoda Store and Bakery

$ | BAKERY | FAMILY | One of Makawao’s landmarks is this mom-and-pop shop, which has changed very little over the last century. If you arrive early enough, you can get an incredible “stick” doughnut, cream-filled malasadas, or delicious cream puffs. Known for: long but fast-moving lines; amazing guava malasadas (Portuguese cream puffs); cool store with historic vibe. DAverage main: $4 E3674 Baldwin Ave., Makawao P808/572–7261 CClosed Wed. and Sun. xSmall parking lot to the right of building.

n Nightlife

Stopwatch Bar & Grill

BARS | This friendly dive bar hosts a popular karaoke night on Thursday from 7:30 to 10:30 pm. On tap, you’ll find local Maui and Kona Brewing Company beers and happy hour from 3 to 6 pm daily. E1127 Makawao Ave., Makawao P808/572–1380 wwww.stopwatchbarandgrill.com.

b Shopping

Designing Wahine Emporium and Hale Zen

SOUVENIRS | This Upcountry haven is a shopper’s delight of beach luxe, wrapped in aloha, and sprinkled with zen. Featuring Hawaiian merchandise and Balinese imports, you’ll find endless gift options like authentic aloha shirts, jams and jellies, children’s clothes and books, bath and beauty products, and home decor. Find products from Capri Blue, Maka Sea, Velvet, Dolce Vita, and more. E3640 Baldwin Ave., Makawao P808/573–0990 wwww.halezen.com.

Maui Master Jewelers

JEWELRY & WATCHES | The shop’s exterior is as rustic as all the old buildings of Makawao and belies the elegance of the handcrafted jewelry displayed by more than 30 fine art jewelers. Each artist is unique and expresses their designs using gold, silver, and platinum with colored gemstones, diamonds, and pearls. E3655 Baldwin Ave., Makawao P808/573–5400 wmauimasterjewelers.com.

Pink by Nature

CLOTHING | Proprietor Desiree Martinez keeps her rustic store stocked with beautiful local jewelry and feminine pieces from Indah, Bella Dahl, and Novella Royale brands. Versatile plaid shirts from Rails are popular, along with stylish menswear and home decor. E3663 Baldwin Ave., Makawao P808/572–9576 wpinkbynature.com.

Viewpoints Gallery

ART GALLERY | Located in a cozy courtyard, this friendly gallery is co-owned by local artists and offers eclectic paintings, sculptures, photography, ceramics, and glass, along with locally made jewelry and quilts that celebrate Hawaii. Exhibits change regularly. E3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao P808/572–5979 wviewpointsgallerymaui.com.

Kula

5 miles southwest of Makawao; 15 miles east of Kahului; 44 miles east of Kaanapali; 28 miles east of Wailea.

Kula: most Mauians say it with a hint of a sigh. Why? It’s just that much closer to heaven. On the broad shoulder of Haleakala, this is blessed country. From the Kula Highway most of Central Maui is visible—from the lava-scarred plains of Kanaio to the cruise ship–lighted waters of Kahului Harbor. Beyond the central valley’s sugarcane fields, the plunging profile of the West Maui Mountains can be seen in its entirety, wreathed in ethereal mist.

If this sounds too dramatic a description, you haven’t been here yet. These views, coveted by many, continue to drive real-estate prices ever skyward. Luckily, you can still have them for free—just pull over on the roadside and take in the beauty. Explore it even further on some of the area’s agricultural tours.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

From Kahului, take Route 37 (Haleakala Highway), which runs into Route 377 (Kula Highway). Upper and Lower Kula highways are both numbered 377, but join each other at two points.

s Sights

Alii Kula Lavender

FARM/RANCH | FAMILY | The view is spectacular from this lavender farm established by master horticulturist and visionary Alii Chang. You can explore the property on your own or reserve a spot for the 30–40 minute tour that winds through paths of therapeutic lavender varieties, protea, and succulents. The gift shop has many locally made lavender products, such as honey, moisturizing lotions, and scone mixes. E1100 Waipoli Rd., Kula P808/878–3004 wwww.aliikulalavender.com A$3, walking tours $12 (reservations recommended) CClosed Tues.–Thurs.

HMauiWine

WINERY | Naturally, the top seller at this winery, located on what was once Rose Ranch and is now Ulupalakua Ranch, is the pineapple wine Maui Blanc. Reservations are encouraged for the regular tastings that take place Tuesday through Sunday in the King’s Cottage, which was built in the late 1800s for frequent appearances by King Kalakaua. Reservations are required for the more intimate Under the Camphor Tree experience, which is held at select times on Thursday and Friday and which pairs wine with insight on area history—from visits by monarchs to sugar plantations to cattle ranching. E14815 Piilani Hwy., Kula P808/878–6058 wmauiwine.com ATastings from $12 CClosed Mon.

HOo Farm

FARM/RANCH | About a mile from Alii Kula Lavender are 8 acres of organic salad greens, herbs, vegetables, coffee, cocoa, fruits, and berries—and the public is welcome to enjoy the bounty. Oo Farm is owned and operated by the restaurateurs responsible for one of Maui’s finest dining establishments, PacificO, and more than 300 pounds of produce end up on diners’ plates every week. Reserve a space for the breakfast or lunch tours that include an informational walk around the pastoral grounds and an alfresco meal prepared by an on-site chef. Cap off the experience with house-grown roasted and brewed coffee. Reservations are required. E651 Waipoli Rd., Kula P808/856–0141 woofarm.com ALunch tour from $125 CClosed weekends.

HUpcountry Farmers’ Market

MARKET | FAMILY | Most of Maui’s produce is grown Upcountry, which is why everything is fresh at this outdoor market located next to Long’s in the Kulamalu Town Center. Every Saturday from 7 to 11 am, vendors offer fruits, vegetables, flowers, jellies, bread, plus unique finds like venison, kimchi, and fresh-caught fish. Prepared food offerings reflect the island’s cultural melting pot, and there’s an excellent selection of vegan and raw food. Go early, as nearly everything sells out. E55 Kiopaa St., Pukalani wwww.upcountryfarmersmarket.com AFree.

r Restaurants

Kula Bistro

$$ | ITALIAN | FAMILY | Nestled on the slopes of Haleakala, this bistro evokes trattorias in northern Italy, serving homestyle food with a dash of Italian. Start the day an egg dish or the indulgent white chocolate macadamia nut pancakes; opt for a panini at lunch; or, for dinner, enjoy anything from specialty pasta dishes and signature pizzas to prime rib to the local favorite loco moco. Known for: BYOB; family- and group-friendly; impressive desserts. DAverage main: $25 E4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula P808/871–2960 wkulabistro.com CNo breakfast Mon.–Wed.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Grandma’s Coffee House

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | The Franco family has been perfecting its organic coffee since 1918, growing and handpicking the beans, drying them under the Maui sun, and then roasting them at the coffeehouse. Pop in or order takeout online—the food here truly reflects local culture, with dishes that tutu (grandma) would make for the ohana (family) and baked goods, bagels, and burgers that all hit the spot. Known for: fresh-pressed juices; tasty, generously portioned breakfasts; idyllic country location best viewed from the back deck. DAverage main: $12 E9232 Kula Hwy., Keokea P808/878–2140 wwww.grandmascoffeehousemaui.com CNo dinner.

Haleakala National Park

Summit Entrance is 27 miles southeast of Kahului and 14 miles southeast of Kula.

Established in 1916, Haleakala National Park covers a 33,265 acres and encompasses two areas—East Maui’s Kipahulu District and Upcountry’s Summit district, where Haleakala Crater is the centerpiece. A visit to this park can take you from the tropics to the moon (and back again)! Two hours, 38 miles, 10,023 feet—those are the unlikely numbers involved in reaching Maui’s highest point, the summit of the Haleakala volcano, from Kahului. Taking in the views from here and exploring the crater below are among the island’s best experiences.

The volcanic terrain offers an impressive diversity of colors, textures, and shapes—as if the lava has been artfully sculpted. The barren landscape is home to many plants, insects, and birds that exist nowhere else on Earth and has developed intriguing survival mechanisms, such as the sun-reflecting, hairy leaves of the silversword, which allow it to survive the intense climate.

On the backside of the volcano, the lush, waterfall-dotted Kipahulu District runs southeast toward the sea and can only be reached via the Hana Highway. FFor more information on this district, see East Maui.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

To reach Haleakala National Park and the mountain’s breathtaking summit, take Route 36 east of Kahului to the Haleakala Highway (Route 37). Head east, up the mountain to the unlikely intersection of Haleakala Highway and Haleakala Highway. If you continue straight the road’s name changes from Kula Highway (still Route 37). Instead, turn left onto Haleakala Highway—this is now Route 377. After about 6 miles, make a left onto Crater Road (Route 378). After several long switchbacks (look out for downhill bikers), you’ll come to the park entrance.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Haleakala Visitor Center

VISITOR CENTER | Located at the crater summit, roughly a 30-minute drive south of park headquarters and the Summit District entrance, this visitor center has exhibits inside and a trail that leads to Pa Kaoao (White Hill)—a short, easy walk with even better views of the valley. Though hours vary seasonally, the center is generally open daily year-round. EHaleakala Hwy., Haleakala National Park P808/572–4459 wwww.nps.gov/hale AFree; parking is $30 per vehicle.

Park Headquarters Visitor Center

VISITOR CENTER | Just past the Summit District entrance is the Park Headquarters Visitor Center, where you’ll find trail maps and displays about geology, Hawaiian culture, and endangered species protected within the park. Hikers and campers should check-in here before heading up the mountain. Maps, posters, and other memorabilia are available at the gift shop. The center is open daily year-round, though hours vary seasonally. EHaleakala Hwy., Haleakala National Park P808/572–4400 wwww.nps.gov/hale.

s Sights

HHaleakala National Park – Summit District

NATIONAL PARK | FAMILY | This is one of the few places on Earth can you drive (or bike) from sea level to 10,023 feet in only 38 miles. What’s more, in that ascent to summit of the Haleakala volcano, you’ll journey from the lush, tropical island landscape to the stark, moonlike basin of the volcano’s enormous, otherworldly crater. Several trails take in these varied landscapes, including the Keoneeheehee (Sliding Sands) Trail, a hike with out-and-back segments to overlooks and down into the crater; if you’re truly fit and ambitious, you can even follow it all the way across the crater floor. Although a few last-minute sunrise-viewing tickets are released online two days out, they can be difficult to secure, so consider sunset, which is almost as stunning. lIf you plan to head to the summit before 7 am, you must make sunrise reservations, which you can do up to 60 days before your visit; however, always check for the latest weather conditions before going. E30000 Haleakala Hwy., Kula P808/572–4400, 866/944–5025 for weather conditions wwww.nps.gov/hale A$15 per person on foot or by bike; $30 per vehicle.

HHaleakala Volcano Crater

NATURE SIGHT | FAMILY | The park’s main attraction is this dormant shield volcano’s crater, which is actually an erosional valley created by water pouring down from the summit. The views from the summit are spectacular, but entering the crater—with its cinder cones, lava flows, and loud silence—is like landing on a different planet. Indeed, in the early 1960s, NASA even brought moon-suited astronauts here to practice what it would be like to “walk on the moon.” Segments of the Keoneheehee (Sliding Sands) Trail take you out and back from the Haleakala Visitor Center to overlooks at the summit as well as down into the crater. EHaleakala Crater Rd., Haleakala National Park P808/572–4400 wwww.nps.gov/hale A$15 per person, $30 per vehicle (valid for 3 days).

Leleiwi Overlook

VIEWPOINT | FAMILY | Located at about the 8,800-foot level, the Leleiwi Overlook offers your first awe-inspiring view of the crater. The small hills in the basin are puu (cinder cones). If you’re here in the late afternoon, you may see yourself reflected on the clouds and encircled by a rainbow—a phenomenon called the Brocken spectre Don’t wait long for this to happen, though, because it’s not a common occurrence. EOff Haleakala Hwy., Haleakala National Park.

Puuulaula Overlook

VIEWPOINT | FAMILY | The highest point on Maui is this 10,023-foot summit, where a glass-enclosed lookout provides a 360-degree view. The building is open 24 hours a day, and this is where many visitors gather to view the sunrise. Bring jackets, warm layers, hats, and blankets to stay warm on the cold and windy summit. On a clear day, you can see the islands of Molokai, Lanai, Kahoolawe, and Hawaii; on a crystal clear day, you can even spot Oahu glimmering in the distance. EHaleakala National Park.

The North Shore

Blasted by winter swells and wind, Maui’s North Shore draws water-sports thrill seekers from around the world. But there’s much more to this area of Maui than coastline. Inland, a lush, waterfall-fed Garden of Eden beckons. In forested pockets, wealthy hermits have carved out a little piece of paradise for themselves.

North Shore action centers on the colorful town of Paia and the windsurfing mecca of Hookipa Beach. It’s a far cry from the more developed resort areas of West Maui and the South Shore. Paia is also a starting point for one of the most popular excursions in Maui, the Road to Hana. Waterfalls, phenomenal views of the coast and the ocean, and lush rainforest are all part of the spectacular 55-mile drive into East Maui.

Many of the people you see jaywalking in Paia sold everything they owned to come to Maui and live a beach bum’s life. Beach culture abounds on the North Shore. But these folks aren’t sunbathers; they’re big-wave riders, windsurfers, or kiteboarders, and the North Shore is their challenging sports arena. Beaches here face the open ocean and tend to be rougher and windier than beaches elsewhere on Maui—but don’t let that scare you off. On calm days the reef-speckled waters are truly beautiful and offer a quieter and less commercial beach-going experience than the leeward shore. Be sure to leave your locked car in a paved parking area so that it doesn’t get stuck in soft sand.

Paia

9 miles east of Kahului; 6 miles northwest of Makawao; 4 miles west of Haiku.

At the intersection of Hana Highway and Baldwin Avenue, Paia was once a sugarcane enclave, with a mill, plantation camps, and shops. In the 1970s, it became a hippie town, as dropouts headed for Maui to open boutiques, galleries, and unusual eateries. In the 1980s, windsurfers—many of them European—discovered Hookipa Beach in nearby Kuau and brought an international flavor to Paia. Today, this historic town continues to be hip and happening. Boutiques supply everything from high fashion to hemp-oil candles. Shops here are also some of the best on Maui if you’re in the market for surf trunks, bikinis, or other beachwear.

Paia has a good array of eat-in and takeout restaurants where the selections range from flatbread to fresh fish and where the people-watching is excellent. All this is helpful because restaurants can be packed, especially at lunchtime, given that Paia is the last place to snack before the pilgrimage to Hana and the first stop for the famished on the return trip. Bring your patience—you’ll need it not only when it comes to navigating crowds and waiting for a meal, but also in terms of finding a parking spot in one of the quick-to-fill public lots.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Route 36 (Hana Highway) runs directly though Paia; if you’re journeying there from Upcountry, Route 37 can get you there, but not directly. You can take the Maui Bus from the airport and Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center in Kahului to Paia.

; Beaches

On some days, those North Shore swells make the area’s beautiful beaches more likely to have water-sports enthusiasts than swimmers. Still, that doesn’t mean that you can’t enjoy a great day lingering in the sand, soaking in the panoramic views, and taking walks along the shore.

Baldwin Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | A local favorite, this approximately 1-mile stretch of golden sand is a good place to stretch out, jog, or swim, although the waves can sometimes be choppy and the undertow strong. Don’t be alarmed by those big brown blobs floating beneath the surface; they’re just pieces of seaweed awash in the surf. You can find shade along the beach beneath the ironwood trees. Though there is a pavilion, it’s not the safest place to hang out. Instead, take your picnics to the tree line and enjoy visits from friendly birds and dogs. The long, shallow pool at the Kahului end of the beach is known as Baby Beach. Amenities: lifeguard; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: swimming; walking. EHana Hwy., Paia jAbout 1 mile west of Baldwin Ave.

r Restaurants

Cafe Mambo

$$ | ECLECTIC | FAMILY | This colorful, airy, and brightly painted hangout is right in the thick of things, so the people-watching is excellent. The food is great, too, and the menu features everything from burgers and fish to four different preparations of duck. Known for: crispy duck; unique fajitas and salads; locally inspired tapas. DAverage main: $19 E30 Baldwin Ave., Paia P808/579–8021 wcafemambomaui.com.

Flatbread Company

$$ | PIZZA | FAMILY | Not only is this popular restaurant, an outpost of a Vermont-based operation, a great place to take the kids, but it’s also a valued member of the community, giving to local nonprofits with proceeds from benefits held each Tuesday night and sourcing local, organic, and sustainable ingredients, including 100% organically grown wheat for the made-fresh-daily dough. Although it only accepts reservations for large groups, it offers “call-ahead seating,” so you can put your name on the wait list before you arrive. Known for: Mopsy’s Kalua Pork Pizza served with kiawe (mesquite)-smoked free-range pork shoulder and house-made organic mango barbecue sauce; small but lively bar and jam-packed Tuesday benefit nights; wood-fired, clay-oven pizzas. DAverage main: $24 E89 Hana Hwy., Paia P808/579–8989 wflatbreadcompany.com.

HPaia Fishmarket Restaurant

$$ | SEAFOOD | FAMILY | If you’re okay with communal picnic tables, or taking your meal to a nearby beach, head to this place, which serves, arguably, the best fresh fish—choose from four to six types and four preparations on any given day—for the best prices on this side of the island. For non-fish fans, the menu has burgers, as well as chicken and pasta options. Known for: delectable side dishes; grilled opah; local fish and local beer at low, local prices. DAverage main: $18 E100 Hana Hwy., Paia P808/579–8030 wpaiafishmarket.com.

HVANA

$$$ | JAPANESE FUSION | The menu at this restaurant in the Paia Inn is hip, fresh, and eclectic, featuring both sushi and a rotating array of hot Japanese dishes that often have a Hawaiian twist. You can sit in the main dining room or the bar area, where mixologists carefully prepare craft cocktails. Known for: stunning sushi options; ambience that encourages lingering and enjoying; vibrant mixology program for alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks. DAverage main: $28 EPaia Inn, 93 Hana Hwy., Paia P808/579–6002 wvanapaia.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Paia Gelato

$ | ICE CREAM | FAMILY | Fresh gelato made with locally sourced ingredients is the big draw here (try Surfing Goat Dairy’s Lilikoi Quark flavor and thank us later). You’ll also find jams, jellies, and dressings from Jeff Gomes, coffees from Maui Coffee Roasters, and picnic lunches from Hana Lunch Co. Known for: large dairy-free gelato selection; awesome box lunches to take on your travels; tasty sandwiches and breakfast bagels. DAverage main: $6 E99C Hana Hwy., Paia P808/579–9201 wwww.instagram.com/paiagelato.

HUlulani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice

$ | ICE CREAM | FAMILY | This Maui institution is a must-visit for its interesting shave-ice flavors featuring natural, handmade syrups and a variety of toppings, including Roselani’s ice cream. Be sure to look for specials before ordering from the big board (the menu is extensive), and don’t be afraid to try a tropical flavor that might be new to you. Known for: long but fast-moving lines; decadent “snow cap” condensed milk or coconut cream topping; option to add popular Roselani’s ice cream. DAverage main: $7 E115 Hana Hwy., Paia P808/877–3700 wwww.ululanishawaiianshaveice.com.

h Hotels

Paia Inn

$$$$ | B&B/INN | Although it’s set along Hana Highway, this chic inn with oceanfront accommodations and Southeast Asian influences is surprisingly quiet. Pros: just steps from funky Paia town; well-maintained property; excellent on-site restaurant. Cons: some rooms are very small; limited on- and off-site parking; lots of street action. DRooms from: $499 E93 Hana Hwy., Paia P808/579–6000 wpaiainn.com a15 units XNo Meals.

b Shopping

HMana Foods

FOOD | At this bustling health food store you can stock up on local fish and grass-fed beef for your barbecue. You’ll find the island’s best selection of organic produce, as well as a great bakery and deli. The health and beauty room has a dizzying selection of products that promise to keep you glowing. Note that this store doesn’t sell alcohol. E49 Baldwin Ave., Paia P808/579–8078 wmanafoodsmaui.com.

HMaui Crafts Guild

ART GALLERY | One of the island’s only artist cooperatives, Maui Crafts Guild is crammed with treasures. Resident artists produce lead-glazed pottery, basketry, glass and feather art, photography, and woodwork pieces. One artist even creates gyotaku, the Japanese art of fish rubbing, resulting in stunningly vibrant pieces. The prices are surprisingly low, making this a great place to find gifts and one-of-a-kind items to take home. E120 Hana Hwy., Paia P808/579–9697 wwww.mauicraftsguild.com.

HMaui Girl Swimwear

SWIMWEAR | This is the place on Maui for swimwear, cover-ups, beach hats, and sandals. Maui Girl designs its own suits, which have been spotted in Sports Illustrated fashion shoots and on celebrities. Tops and bottoms can be purchased separately, increasing your chances of finding the perfect fit. E12 Baldwin Ave., Paia P808/579–9266 wwww.maui-girl.com.

HMaui Hands

ART GALLERY | This gallery shows pieces by more than 300 local artists, including exquisite woodwork, lovely ceramics, authentic Niihau shell lei, wave metal etchings, and whimsical clay figures. There are also locations in Makawao and at the Shops at Wailea, and all three galleries feature unique Artists in Residence programs that connect the public to artists during monthly “talk story” sessions. E84 Hana Hwy., Paia P808/579–9245 wwww.mauihands.com.

Kuau

2 miles northeast of Paia.

Kuau, a small district just off the Road to Hana (Route 36), is home to a few standout spots for swimming, taking in the views, grabbing a cup of coffee, and dining. You may consider skipping this area in favor of getting an early start to Hana, but it’s worth the extra time to visit.

; Beaches

HHookipa Beach

BEACH | To see some of the world’s finest windsurfers, hit this beach along the Hana Highway. It’s also one of Maui’s hottest surfing spots, with waves that can reach 20 feet. Although Hookipa isn’t really a good swimming beach, it does have a few protected reef areas that provide a shore break and places to play in the water, so getting wet isn’t completely out of the question. It’s also not the place to learn windsurfing, so if you’re not experienced in the sport, it’s best to just hang out and watch the pros. There are picnic tables and grills, though the pavilion area isn’t particularly inviting. Amenities: lifeguard; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: surfing; windsurfing. EHana Hwy, Paia jAt mile marker 9, about 2 miles east of Paia.

r Restaurants

Mama’s Fish House

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Set in an intimate location on the beach, Mama’s has been the Maui destination for special occasions for almost four decades. A path of gecko-shape stones leads to an ever-changing fantasyland of Hawaiian kitsch, where savvy servers can explain the various fish types and preparations, and you’d be wise to heed their recommendation; the fish is so fresh that the daily menu lists who caught it that morning. Known for: Polynesian Black Pearl dessert; exceptionally fresh fish; ambience and romance. DAverage main: $50 E799 Poho Pl., Kuau P808/579–8488 wwww.mamasfishhouse.com.

h Hotels

HThe Inn at Mama’s Fish House

$$$$ | B&B/INN | FAMILY | Nestled in gardens adjacent to one of Maui’s most popular dining spots (Mama’s Fish House) and fronting a small beach known as Kuau Cove, these well-maintained studios, suites, and one- and two-bedroom cottages (beachfront and garden options) have high-end appliances, contemporary furnishings, and local artwork that set the stage for beach house luxury. Pros: easy access to Kuau Cove; free parking and Wi-Fi; near Hookipa Beach and Paia town shops and restaurants. Cons: restaurant can get crowded during the evening; limited swimming at beach; not a full-service hotel with concierge. DRooms from: $375 E799 Poho Pl., Kuau P808/579–9764 winnatmamas.com a6 units XNo Meals.

Haiku

13 miles northeast of Kahului; 7 miles northeast of Paia.

At one time this area centered around a couple of enormous pineapple canneries, both of which have been transformed into rustic warehouse malls. Because of the post office next door, Old Haiku Cannery earned the title of town center. Here you can try eateries offering everything from plate lunches to vegetarian dishes to juicy burgers and fantastic sushi. Follow windy Haiku Road to Pauwela Cannery, the other defunct factory-turned-hangout.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Route 36 (Hana Highway) runs directly through Paia; 4 miles east of town, follow the sign to Haiku, a short detour off the highway. You can take the Maui Bus from the airport and Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center in Kahului to Paia and on to Haiku.

Haiku is a short detour off Hana Highway (Route 36) just past Hookipa Beach Park on the way to Hana. Haiku Road turns into Kokomo Road at the post office.

TOURS

HLeilani Farm Sanctuary

SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS | FAMILY | For a chance to snuggle a sheep or hug a cow in paradise, an hour-long, personalized, guided tour of Leilani Farm Sanctuary is just the thing. Participants must be at least seven years old and reservations are essential. Although the tours are a crucial part of funding the sanctuary, if you really want to give back, consider volunteering to help with morning rounds on Monday and Wednesday (reservations preferred). You can also opt to sponsor an animal. E260 East Kuiaha St., Haiku-Pauwela P808/298–8544 wleilanifarmsanctuary.org A$50 tax-deductible donation xTours Mon. and Wed. at noon, Sat. at 10 am.

r Restaurants

HColleen’s at the Cannery

$$ | AMERICAN | You’d never guess by the nondescript exterior and the location in an old pineapple cannery-cum-strip-mall, but this restaurant has the feel of a hip urban eatery and is popular with locals for breakfast and lunch, as well as happy hour and dinner—when the bar side opens, the candles come out, and it’s time for martinis and fresh fish. Known for: excellent food featuring Upcountry’s best produce; specialty artisan pizzas and enormous salads; eggs Benedict (available every day) and Bloody Marys. DAverage main: $24 EHaiku Cannery Marketplace, 810 Haiku Rd., Haiku-Pauwela P808/575–9211 wcolleensinhaiku.com.

Nuka

$$ | ASIAN FUSION | This off-the-beaten-path izakaya-style Japanese eatery is worth the trek to sleepy Haiku. The eclectic menu includes everything from specialty French fries and fusion sushi rolls to sashimi and some of the best tempura around—all based on what’s fresh from local farmers and fishermen. Known for: hard to get a table (no reservations); house-made sesame, miso, and matcha ice creams; exceptional sushi and sashimi. DAverage main: $18 E780 Haiku Rd., Haiku-Pauwela P808/575–2939 wwww.nukamaui.com CNo lunch weekends.

b Shopping

HJaws Country Store

SOUVENIRS | FAMILY | You wouldn’t guess from the exterior and the name, but this North Shore store is much closer to a boutique than a country store. Full of branded merch, gifts, sunscreen, and other body products, it’s a great place to shop for souvenirs. You can also find drinks, snacks, baked goods, and a small kombucha bar, making it a nice stop before heading out on the Road to Hana. The store also has a small cafe featuring wood-fired pizzas and empanadas. E4320 Hana Hwy, Haiku-Pauwela P808/419–6887 wjawssurfco.com.

Road to Hana

To drive the Road to Hana, one of the most beautiful routes on the planet, is to make a pilgrimage into the unspoiled heart of Maui. Tracing a centuries-old path, the winding, scenic road travels to the island’s rain-gouged windward side, where the backcountry is rarely visited by humans.

Without stops, the 51-mile trip from Kahului to Hana takes two or three hours; from Huelo, it’s about 31 miles and 1½ to two hours. Much, however, depends on traffic and on how confident you are driving along narrow roads that twist through dramatic heights and hairpin turns.

Going at a more leisurely place is best—both for safety and to better relish this glorious, foliage-hugged ribbon of road. It’s also a good idea to travel only during the day, and it’s a must to obey “no parking” signs that have been posted at certain popular spots.

Road to Hana by the Mile Markers s

From Kahului, Routes 36 and 360 (the Hana Highway) wind just over 50 miles to Hana. Without stops, it’s about a two-hour drive. But you’ll want to stop—if only to stretch your legs, take in the views (and take some photos!), and maybe buy fresh fruit or banana bread from a roadside stand.

Addresses for attractions on this scenic route often include mile markers, which change back to 0 just after the North Shore community of Haiku. Below are mile markers (some of them approximate) for key stops on or just off the road between Haiku and Hana.

Huelo Area

Mile Marker 2: Twin Falls Farmstand, path to Twin Falls

Mile Marker 4: Huelo Town, Huelo Lookout Food Stand

Between Mile Markers 9 and 10: Waikamoi Nature Trail

Keanae Area

Mile Marker 10: Garden of Eden Arboretum

Mile Marker 16: Keanae Peninsula, Aunt Sandy’s Banana Bread Stand

Between Mile Markers 16 and 17: Keanae Arboretum

Mile Marker 17: Keanae Overlook, Halfway to Hana Fruit Stand

Mile Marker 18: Waikani Stream Bridge

Mile Marker 20: Wailua Overlook

Mile Marker 22: Puaa Kaa State Wayside Park

Mile Marker 24: Hanawi Falls

Hana Area

Mile Marker 29: Nahiku Marketplace

Mile Marker 31: Kaeleku Caverns, Piilanihale Heiau (a beautiful 16th-century temple), and Kahanu Garden.

Mile Marker 32: Waianapanapa State Park

Mile Marker 34: Hana Town

Huelo

10 miles east of Haiku.

As the Road to Hana begins its journey eastward, the slopes get steeper, and the Pacific Ocean pops into view. When you see the bank of mailboxes on the makai (ocean) side of the road, just past mile marker 4, follow the windy road to Huelo—a funky community with a mix of off-the-grid inhabitants and visitors staying in vacation rentals.

The town features two picturesque churches, one of which is Kaulanapueo Church, constructed in 1853 out of coral blocks. If you linger awhile, you may meet some locals and learn about their rural island lifestyle. Two natural sites just off the highway bookend the town. At mile marker 2, you’ll find a small farm and snack stand that serve as the entrance to winding pathways that lead to the Twin Falls. Just beyond town, between mile markers 9 and 10, the Waikamoi Nature Trail offers a slightly more challenging hike among ancient trees and sprawling ferns.

The Huelo Lookout Fruit Stand, at mile marker 4.5, has yummy smoothies and killer views of the Pacific below.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Just after Haiku, the mile markers on the Hana Highway change back to 0. The town of Huelo is at mile marker 4. To reach the township, follow the signs toward the makai (ocean) side of the road.

s Sights

Twin Falls

WATERFALL | FAMILY | Keep an eye out for the Twin Falls Farm Stand just after mile marker 2 on the Hana Highway. Stop here and treat yourself to some fresh sugarcane juice. If you’re feeling adventurous, follow the path (colorful arrows point the way) beyond the stand to the paradisiacal waterfalls known as Twin Falls. Several deep, emerald pools sparkle beneath the falls and offer excellent (and a little cold) swimming and photo opportunities.

This site is on private property, and the family that owns it has implemented a paid ($10 per vehicle), first-come-first-served parking system to help prevent overcrowding. Indeed, this natural attraction has become a tourist hot spot, and although the attention is well deserved, if you want to avoid crowds you might want to keep driving. lNote that the Twin Falls site is closed to out-of-state visitors on the first Saturday of the month. E6300 Hana Hwy., past mile marker 2, Haiku-Pauwela P808/463–1275 text only wwww.twinfallsmaui.net A$10 parking.

Waikamoi Nature Trail

TRAIL | FAMILY | Slightly after the town of Huelo, the Hana Highway enters the Koolau Forest Reserve. Vines wrap around street signs, and waterfalls are so abundant that you don’t know which direction to look. A good start is between mile markers 9 and 10, where the Waikamoi Nature Trail sign beckons you to stretch your car-weary limbs. A short (if muddy) trail leads through tall eucalyptus trees to a coastal vantage point with a picnic table. Awapuhi, or Hawaiian shampoo ginger, sends up fragrant shoots along the trail. Signage with messages such as “Quiet, Trees at Work” and “Bamboo Picking Permit Required”keeps you, figuratively speaking, on the straight and narrow. EHana Hwy., between mile markers 9 and 10 wdlnr.hawaii.gov/forestry.

Keanae

13 miles east of Huelo.

Officially, Keanae is the halfway point to Hana, and for many, this is where the drive offers the most rewarding vistas. The greenery seems to envelop the skinny road, forcing drivers to slow to a crawl as they ooh and aah at the landscape. In this area, there seem to be waterfalls at every turn.

About a mile east of Keanae is the tiny town of Wailua, one of the most native Hawaiian communities on Maui (around 94% of the residents have at least partial Hawaiian blood.) The town prefers not to have visitors (tourists have tended to trespass to get a better look at area waterfalls), but you can enjoy views of the community’s quilt of taro patches and its church from above at the roadside Wailua Overlook.

Tropical Delights r

The drive to Hana wouldn’t be as enchanting without a stop or two at one of the countless fruit and flower (and banana bread) stands by the highway. Every so often a thatch hut tempts passersby with apple bananas (a smaller, firmer variety), lilikoi (passion fruit), avocados, coconuts, or star fruit just plucked from the tree. Leave a few dollars in the can for the folks who live off the land. Huge bouquets of tropical flowers are available for a handful of change, and some farms will ship.

One standout is Aunty Sandy’s Banana Bread Stand, in the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it community of Keanae. This legendary banana-bread shop is just past the coral-and-lava-rock church. Aunty Sandy’s sweet loaves lure locals and tourists alike, but be sure to arrive early, because once the stand runs out (it’s also closed on Sundays), you’ll have to scurry back up the main road to the Halfway to Hana Fruit Stand to find a tasty replacement.

s Sights

HGarden of Eden Arboretum

GARDEN | Just beyond mile marker 10, the Garden of Eden Arboretum offers interpretive trails through 26 manicured acres. Anyone with a green thumb will appreciate the care and attention given to the more than 500 varieties of tropical plants—many of them native. Trails also lead to views of the lovely Puohokamoa Falls and provide a glimpse into the botanical wonders that thrive in this lush region. Be sure to stop by the gift shop on the way out to shop for items made by local artisans and to hang out with the ducks and peacocks. Avoid lines and crowds by visiting when the garden first opens (around 8 am) or after 2 pm (closing time isn’t until 4). E10600 Hana Hwy., past mile marker 10, Haiku-Pauwela P808/572–9899 wmauigardenofeden.com A$20.

Hanawi Falls

WATERFALL | At mile marker 24, just as you approach the bridge, look toward the mountains to catch a glimpse of Hanawi Falls. This lush spring-fed stream travels 9 miles to the ocean, and the waterfalls are real crowd-pleasers, even when rains have been light. The best views are from the bridge. zIt is not safe to hike to the falls, and you must cross private property to get there. We strongly advise against this. EHana Hwy., near mile marker 24, Keanae.

Keanae Arboretum

GARDEN | At this arboretum you can enjoy tropical trees in their natural setting or enjoy a challenging hike into the forest. Signs help you learn the names of the many plants and trees now considered native to Hawaii; the rainbow eucalyptus trees are a big draw here (do not write on them). The meandering Piinaau Stream adds a graceful touch to the arboretum and provides a swimming pond when there is enough water. You can take a fairly rigorous hike from the arboretum if you can find the trail at one side of the large taro patch. Be careful not to lose the trail once you’re on it. A lovely forest waits at the end of the 25-minute hike. E13385 Hana Hwy., past mile marker 16, Keanae AFree.

Keanae Overlook

VIEWPOINT | In one direction from this observation point near mile marker 17, you can take in the patchwork effect the taro patches create against the dramatic backdrop of the ocean. In the other direction, there are awesome views of Haleakala through the foliage. This is a great spot for photos, but it is not recommended that you fly your drones over the inhabited areas. EHana Hwy., near mile marker 17, Keanae.

Puaa Kaa State Wayside Park

NATURE SIGHT | For a leg-stretching break (and restrooms) stop at this small roadside park just past mile marker 22. Here you can enjoy the short hike to a small waterfall and pool across the highway from the bathrooms. The park is one of the few places on the highway with a decent amount of parking. It also has picnic tables and friendly cats to welcome you. EHana Hwy., Wailua (Maui County) j½ mile past mile marker 22 wdlnr.hawaii.gov.

Wailua Overlook

VIEWPOINT | FAMILY | Past mile marker 18, enjoy some time at the concrete arches of the beautiful Waikani Stream Bridge before heading to the parking lot of this overlook near mile marker 20. From this perch, you can see Wailua Canyon in one direction and, in the other, Wailua Village, where 94% of the residents have at least partial Hawaiian blood. As you look down, note the village’s landmark 1860 church, which was allegedly constructed of coral that washed ashore during a storm. lWailua asks that you respect the privacy of its residents by not entering the village. Note, too, that although you’ll want to take photos of the scenery from the overlook, doing so using a drone flown over the populated area is strongly discouraged. EHana Hwy., near mile marker 20, Wailua (Maui County).

Hana

15 miles east of Keanae.

Hana is one of the few places where the slow pulse of the island is still strong. The town centers on its lovely circular bay, dominated on the right-hand shore by a puu (volcanic cinder cone) called Kauiki. A short trail here leads to a cave, the birthplace of Queen Kaahumanu. Two miles beyond town, another puu presides over a loop road that passes Hana’s two best beaches—Koki and Hamoa. The hill is called Ka Iwi O Pele (Pele’s Bone). Offshore here, at tiny Alau Island, the demigod Maui supposedly fished up the Hawaiian Islands.

Although sugar was once the mainstay of Hana’s economy, the last plantation shut down in the 1940s. In 1946, rancher Paul Fagan built the Hotel Hana-Maui and stocked the surrounding pastureland with cattle. The hotel became a Travaasa experiential resort in 2011, before changing hands in 2020, when the Mani Brothers Real Estate Group purchased it, along with other parcels of Hana real estate. What is now known as the Hana-Maui Resort is managed by Hyatt and is a pleasant place to stroll. The cross you can see on the hill above the hotel was put there in memory of Fagan.

s Sights

HKaeleku Caverns

CAVE | FAMILY | If you’re interested in spelunking, take the time to explore Kaeleku Caverns (aka Hana Lava Tube), just after mile marker 31 and a mile down Ulaino Road. The friendly folks at the cave give a brief orientation and promptly send you into Maui’s largest lava tube, accented by colorful, otherworldly formations and a lot of fascinating history. You can take a self-guided, 30- to 40-minute tour daily 10:30 am until 4 pm. LED flashlights are provided, and close-toed shoes are recommended. For those who don’t want to explore the caverns, this still makes for a great stop to check out the world’s only red ti leaf maze on the grounds. E205 Ulaino Rd., off Hana Hwy., past mile marker 31, Hana P808/248–7308 wmauicave.com A$15.

HKahanu Garden

GARDEN | FAMILY | Part of the National Tropical Botanical Garden network, Kahanu Garden features a variety of plants as well as cultural and archaeological sites. Standout features include a native plant garden, thatched-roof canoe hale, beautiful ocean views, and Piilanihale Heiau, the largest heiau (temple) in Polynesia. Two-hour guided tours are offered Wednesday through Friday mornings, but 1½-hour self-guided tours are an option, too. E650 Ulaino Rd., Hana P808/240–1301 ext. 321 wntbg.org/gardens/kahanu A$16; $30 guided tours CClosed Sat.

Piilanihale Heiau

INDIGENOUS SIGHT | This temple, the largest heiau (stone temple) in Polynesia, was built for a great 16th-century Maui king named Piilani and his heirs. Hawaiian families continue to maintain and protect this sacred site as they have for centuries, and they have not been eager to turn it into a tourist attraction. However, there is a brochure that helps you to tour the property yourself. The heiau is within the 122-acre Kahanu Garden, a research center focusing on the ethnobotany of the Pacific. E650 Ulaino Rd., Hana jTo get here, turn left onto Ulaino Rd. at Hana Hwy. mile marker 31; the road turns to gravel; continue 1½ miles P808/248–8912 wntbg.org/gardens/kahanu A$16 CClosed Sat. and Sun.

HWaianapanapa State Park

STATE/PROVINCIAL PARK | FAMILY | The dramatic landscapes at this oceanside state park are bound to leave a lasting impression. It has one of Maui’s few black-sand beaches, as well as freshwater caves for adventurous swimmers to explore. To the left you’ll find the volcanic sand beach, picnic tables, and cave pools; to the right is an ancient trail that snakes along the ocean past blowholes, sea arches, and archaeological sites. Bird lovers could linger for hours watching the comings and goings of seabirds on the ocean outcroppings. The tide pools here turn red several times a year. Scientists say it’s explained by the arrival of small shrimp, but legend claims the color represents the blood of Popoalaea, said to have been murdered in one of the caves by her husband, Chief Kakae.

There is a private cemetery on the grounds of the park, so be mindful to keep out of this area. lReservations are required for all out-of-state visitors, so you’ll need to plan your day carefully to make your reservation time. With a permit, you can stay in a state-run cabin or campsite for a steal. It’s wise to reserve as early as possible, as these spots book up quickly. EHana Hwy., near mile marker 32, Hana P808/984–8109 wgostateparks.hawaii.gov/waianapanapa AFree rReservations required.

; Beaches

With red-, black-, or salt-and-pepper-colored sands, the beaches here are visually stunning. These aren’t your typical resort beaches, though. Rather they’re ones where nature and civilization smash into one another to create truly memorable places.

HHamoa Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Why did James Michener describe this stretch of salt-and-pepper sand as the most “South Pacific” beach he’d come across, even though it’s in the North Pacific? Maybe it was the perfect half-moon shape, speckled with the shade of palm trees. Perhaps he was intrigued by the jutting black coastline, often outlined by rain showers out at sea, or the pervasive lack of hurry he felt here. Whatever it was, many still feel the lure. The beach can be crowded, yet it is nonetheless relaxing. Early mornings and late afternoons are best for swimming. At times the churning surf might intimidate swimmers, but the bodysurfing can be great. Hamoa is ½ mile past Koki Beach on Haneoo Loop Road, 2 miles south of Hana Town. Amenities: showers; toilets. Best for: surfing; swimming. EHaneoo Loop Rd., Hana.

Hana Bay Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | This park situated around an old pier offers the area’s calmest swimming opportunities. The black-sand beach is a favorite among canoe clubs and families; indeed, residents prefer that weekends be left for locals. There are picnic tables, and you can occasionally find craft vendors in the parking lot. Amenities: parking (free); showers; toilets. Best for: swimming; walking. E150 Keawa Pl., Hana P808/248–7022 wmauicounty.gov.

Koki Beach

BEACH | You can tell from the vehicles parked alongside the road that this small, red-sand beach is a favorite local surf spot. lSwimming is not recommended here, as there are no lifeguards, and the rip currents are powerful. When the tide allows, though, you can walk along the shore, and a grassy area and picnic tables are great places to watch surfers navigate the waves or spot the iwa (white-throated frigatebirds) that dart like pterodactyls over the offshore Alau Islet. Koki Beach is also well-known for its huli huli chicken stand, which serves heaping plates of food to eat while enjoying views of the rugged coastline and the sea arch. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: surfing. EHaneoo Loop Rd., Hana jAbout 2 miles south of Hana Town.

r Restaurants

HHana Farms Bamboo Hale Grill & Pizzeria

$$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Just outside of Hana, a former food truck has been transformed into a permanent location with a large, covered patio, real restrooms, and beautiful wood-fired pizzas, calzones, and salads that highlight the vegetables from Hana Farms. While you wait for your food enjoy the free Wi-Fi (rare in the area) and peruse the farm stand for tropical fruits, banana bread, home and bath gifts, and more. Known for: sides vibrantly flavored and colored with turmeric and curry powder; farm-grown veggies included in every dish; a beautiful outdoor eatery. DAverage main: $24 E2910 Hana Hwy., Hana P808/248–4047 wwww.hanafarms.com/restaurant CNo dinner Sun.–Thurs.

HHana Ranch Restaurant

$$$ | AMERICAN | Fresh, local produce features greatly here, and the menu mixes tasty American fare with local favorites like poke bowls. The quality of food and the prices are reflective of a more upscale restaurant, but the atmosphere is casual (no swimwear allowed, however). Known for: refreshing fruit lemonade; epic burgers and upscale plate lunches; generous portions. DAverage main: $31 EHana-Maui Resort, 1752 Mill Pl. P808/270–5280 wwww.hyatt.com.

HThe Restaurant at Hana-Maui Resort

$$$ | AMERICAN | One of Hana’s only sit-down dining options serves frittatas and pancakes at breakfast and everything from salads and sandwiches to hearty steak, pork, or fish entrées at lunch and dinner. Local produce and Maui beef feature greatly on the menu. Known for: Hana breakfast plates; good pupu selection; farm-fresh ingredients. DAverage main: $31 EHana-Maui Resort, 5031 Hana Hwy, Hana P808/400–1234 wwww.hyatt.com.

h Hotels

HBamboo Inn on Hana Bay

$$$ | B&B/INN | A thatched-roof gate opens to the courtyard of this informal Balinese-inspired guesthouse, which has a sweeping view of Hana Bay, a ground-floor studio with a private outdoor shower, and two other units with private whirlpool hot tubs on second-floor decks. Pros: fall asleep to the sound of waves lapping the rocky coast; close to town center; in-unit kitchenettes and a large on-site barbecue for grilling. Cons: two-night minimum, though one-night fillers may be available; no a/c; little nightlife in this early-to-bed, early-to-rise town. DRooms from: $285 E4869 Uakea Rd., Hana P808/248–7718 wbambooinn.com a3 units XNo Meals.

HHana Kai Maui

$$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Perfectly situated on Hana Bay, this two-story “condotel” has an excellent reputation for cleanliness and visitor hospitality—and the ocean views are stunning. Pros: 10-minute walk to Hana Bay; one-night rentals are accepted, some with conditions; Wi-Fi available in all units. Cons: tight parking lot can be a little difficult to manage; no elevator; no a/c or TV. DRooms from: $465 E4865 Uakea Rd., Hana P808/248–8426, 800/346–2772 wwww.hanakaimaui.com a17 units XNo Meals.

Hana-Maui Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | Managed by Hyatt since 2020, this remote ocean-side getaway is being refreshed and refurbished and features rooms, bungalow suites, and villas, as well as sprawling lawns, two restaurants that welcome both guests and nonguests, a pool and pool bar, a fitness center, and a spa. Some units have private lanai and/or kitchenettes; the decor is contemporary with wood, wicker, and rattan fixtures and furnishings. Pros: welcoming and attentive staff; romantic spot perfect for honeymooners; complimentary cultural experiences and activities. Cons: ongoing construction noise can be bothersome; some suites still in desperate need of an upgrade; disparity in quality of accommodations. DRooms from: $749 E5031 Hana Hwy. P808/400–1234 wwww.hyatt.com a75 units XNo Meals.

b Shopping

HI Love Hana Art Boutique

SOUVENIRS | FAMILY | This sweet little store across from Hana Ranch Restaurant sells handmade jewelry, photography prints, and other art from a variety of local artisans. Prices range from $20 bracelets to higher-end jewelry that you won’t find anywhere else. E8 Mill Pl., Hana wwww.instagram.com/ilovehanaartboutique.

East Maui

East Maui defies definition. Part hideaway for renegades, part escape for celebrities, this funky stretch of Maui surprises at every turn.You might find a smoothie shop that powers your afternoon bike ride, or a hidden restaurant–artist gathering off a backcountry road serving organic cuisine that could have been dropped in from San Francisco. Farms are abundant, and the dramatic beauty seems to get better the farther you get from Hana. This route leads through stark ocean vistas rounding the back side of Haleakala and into Upcountry. If you plan to meander this way, be sure to check the weather and road conditions.

Kipahulu

11 miles southwest of Hana.

Home to many ancient Hawaiians, today Kipahulu devotes its energy to staying under the radar, with surrounding wilderness that makes it a tantalizing place to escape just about everything. There aren’t many attractions aside from the resting place of Charles Lindbergh, an organic farm stand, and astounding landscapes, particularly those in the backside of Haleakala National Park.

This area is also rife with ancient ruins. Be sure not to trespass on or otherwise disturb these sacred sites, but do take the time to learn more about them by talking with park rangers. Note, too, that area beaches have rough surf and strong currents, making them off-limits for swimming.

FFor information on the Summit District side of Haleakala National Park, see Upcountry.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

To access Kipahulu from Hana, continue on Hana Highway, also known as 360, for 11 miles southeast. You can also reach the area from Upcountry’s Highway 37, which turns into Highway 31, although this route can take up to two hours and is a bit rough on your rental car.

s Sights

Grave of Charles Lindbergh

CEMETERY | Many people travel the mile past Oheo Gulch to pay their respects to Charles Lindbergh, who was buried beside Palapala Hoomau Congregational Church in 1974. The world-renowned aviator chose this as his final resting place because he and his wife, writer Anne Morrow Lindbergh, spent a lot of time in a home they built in the area. The simple one-room church sits on a bluff over the sea, with the small graveyard on the ocean side. The views from here are gorgeous. Since this is a churchyard, be considerate and leave everything exactly as you found it. Next door is a small county park that’s a good place for a peaceful picnic. E40990 Hana Hwy., Kipahulu wwww.palapalahoomau.org.

Kaupo Road

SCENIC DRIVE | Also called Piilani Highway, this road winds through what locals say is one of the last parts of real Maui. It goes all the way around Haleakala’s back side through Ulupalakua Ranch and into Kula. The desert-like area, with its grand vistas, is unlike anything else on the island. Residents of the small communities around here cling tenuously to the old ways—please be respectful of them and their traditions.

This road has a reputation for being treacherous, and while narrow sections and steep cliffs can be intimidating for some drivers, recent road improvements have made this a much smoother ride. The total distance between Kipahulu and Kula may be a mere 38 miles, but the drive along the twisty road can take up to two hours. Fill up on gas and provisions before heading out, take it slowly, travel only during daylight hours, and watch out for free-range cattle crossing your path.

HLaulima Farm Stand

MARKET | FAMILY | Just past the Grave of Charles Lindbergh is your last stop for drinks and snacks. This small open-air (and open-daily) stand fronts a 13-acre regenerative family farm and sells coffee, teas, fresh-squeezed juices, baked goods, and a nice selection of souvenir food products. This is a great place to try a variety of tropical fruits for the first time—staffers will even cut open and show you how to eat things like fresh cacao pods and lilikoi (passion fruit). E40755 Hana Hwy., Kipahulu wwww.laulimafarm.com.

HWailua Falls

WATERFALL | FAMILY | Once you’ve made it past Hana town, you’re rewarded with views of what many consider to be the most beautiful and most photographed waterfall in Maui. The best part is that you don’t even have to get off of the highway to see the stunning 80-foot falls that end in a gorgeous pool. Look for the occasional local vendors in the parking area. EPiilani Hwy., Hana jMile marker 45.

Activities and Tours

Aerial Tours

Helicopter flight-seeing excursions can take you over the West Maui Mountains, Haleakala Crater, or the Island of Molokai. Flying is a beautiful, thrilling way to see the Island and the only way to see some of its most scenic areas and waterfalls. Tour prices usually include a digital video of your trip so you can relive the experience at home. Fees run about $314 for a 40-minute flight and more than $399 for a 60-minute tour with an ocean or cliffside landing. Discounts may be available online or if you’re willing to take a chance by calling at the last minute.

Tour operators come under sharp scrutiny for passenger safety and equipment maintenance. Don’t be shy; ask about a company’s safety record, flight paths, equipment age, and operator experience level. Generally, though, it’s doing something right if it’s still in business.

Blue Hawaiian Helicopters

FLIGHTSEEING | FAMILY | Since 1985, this company has provided aerial adventures in Hawaii and has been integral in some of Hollywood’s filming on Maui. Complete Island tours start at 65 minutes and include views of lush valleys, waterfalls, rainforests, and Haleakala crater. A bonus option is to land at a remote location along the Haleakala slopes. Its A-Star and Eco-Star helicopters are air-conditioned and have Bose noise-blocking headsets for all passengers. Charter flights are also available. E1 Lelepio Pl., Hangar 105, Kahului P808/871–8844 local, 800/745–2583 toll free wwww.bluehawaiian.com AFrom $399 per person.

Sunshine Helicopters

FLIGHTSEEING | FAMILY | The 45-minute Hana-Haleakala tour soars past Haleakala National Park, revealing its many faces, including the arid moonlike crater and lush eastern edge dripping with waterfalls and rainforests. First-class seating is available for an additional fee. Charter flights can be arranged. A pilot-narrated digital record of your actual flight is available for purchase. EKahului Airport Rd., Hangar 107, Kahului P808/871–0722, 866/501–7738 wwww.sunshinehelicopters.com AFrom $314.

Biking

Long distances and mountainous terrain keep biking from being a practical mode of travel on Maui. Still, painted bike lanes enable you to cycle from Kapalua in West Maui to Makena on the South Shore, and you’ll see hardy souls battling the trade winds under the hot Maui sun.

Haleakala National Park doesn’t allow commercial guided downhill bike tours within its boundaries. A few companies will, however, provide you with a bike and transportation up to the summit, so that you can descend on your own. Several operators also offer guided bike tours from an elevation of 6,500 feet down the roadway outside the park. Routes vary, though, and may involve riding in a van through one segment.

Although gravity makes cycling down from the summit easy, you should only undertake such a ride if you’re confident on a bike, given the grade, the sharp turns, and the vehicular traffic. That said, the bike operators take every safety precaution. Most also offer discounts for online bookings.

Each company has age and weight restrictions. Pregnant women are discouraged from participating, although they are generally welcome in the escort van. Also, reconsider this activity if you have difficulty with high altitudes, have recently been scuba diving, or take medications that may cause drowsiness.

BEST SPOTS

Thompson Road

BIKING | Street bikers will want to head out to Upcountry’s scenic Thompson Road. It’s quiet, gently curvy, and flanked by gorgeous views on both sides. Because it’s at a higher elevation, the air temperature is cooler and the wind lighter. The coast back toward Kahului on the Kula Highway is worth the ride up. EKula Hwy., off Rte. 37, Keokea.

EQUIPMENT AND TOURS

HBike Maui

BIKING | In the downhill bicycle industry since 1983, “Cruiser” Phil Feliciano offers both group and private tours that include hotel transfers, coffee and snacks, and a guided 23-mile ride down Haleakala. Participants should be older than 12, at least 5 feet tall, weigh less than 280 pounds, and have ridden a bike in the past year. Feliciano also offers structured independent bike tours, van-only tours, and packages that include a zip-lining experience. Discounts are available for online bookings. E810 Haiku Rd. #120, Haiku-Pauwela P808/575–9575 wwww.bikemaui.com AFrom $140 per person.

Island Biker

BIKING | Maui’s premier bike shop for rentals, sales, and service offers standard front-shock, road, and full-suspension mountain bikes. Rental prices include a helmet, pump, water bottle, cages, tire-repair kit, and spare tube. Car racks are included with weekly rentals. The staff can suggest routes appropriate for mountain or road biking. E415 Dairy Rd. Suite C, Kahului P808/877–7744 wislandbiker.com ADaily rentals from $75. Weekly rates from $250.

Krank Cycles

BIKING | Krank Cycles is located in Kahului and Upcountry Maui, close to the Makawao Forest Reserve. It offers full-day and weekly rentals of high-end road and mountain bikes. Owner Moose will provide you with maps and trail reports, in addition to your rental bike and gear. E1120 Makawao Ave., Makawao P808/572–2299 wwww.krankmaui.com ADaily rental from $45.

Bodyboarding and Bodysurfing

Bodysurfing and “sponging” (as bodyboarding is called by the regulars; “boogie boarding” is another variation) are great ways to catch some waves without having to master surfing—and there’s no balance or coordination required. A bodyboard (or “sponge”) is softer than a hard fiberglass surfboard, which means you can ride safely in the rough-and-tumble surf zone. If you get tossed around—which is half the fun—you don’t have a heavy surfboard nearby to bang your head on but you do have something to hang onto. Serious spongers invest in a single short-clipped fin to help propel them into the wave.

BEST SPOTS

In West Maui, D. T. Fleming Beach offers great surf almost daily along with some nice amenities: ample parking, restrooms, a shower, grills, picnic tables, and a daily lifeguard. Caution is advised, especially during winter months, when the current and undertow can get rough.

Between Kihei and Wailea on the South Shore, Kamaole III is a good spot for bodysurfing and bodyboarding. It has a sandy floor, with one- to three-foot waves breaking not too far out. It’s often crowded late in the day, especially on weekends when local kids are out of school. Don’t let that chase you away; the waves are wide enough for everyone.

If you don’t mind public nudity (officially illegal but practiced nonetheless), Puu Olai (aka Little Beach) on the South Shore is the best break on the island for bodyboarding and bodysurfing. The shape of the sandy shoreline creates waves that break a long way out and tumble into shore. Because it’s sandy, you only risk stubbing a toe on the few submerged rocks. Don’t try bodyboarding at neighboring Oneloa (aka Big Beach)—waves will slap you onto the steep shore. To get to Little Beach, take the first entrance to Makena State Beach Park; climb the rock wall at the north end of the beach.

On the North Shore, Paia Bay has waves for spongers and bodysurfers. The beach is just before Paia town, beyond the large community building and grass field.

EQUIPMENT

Most condos and hotels have bodyboards available for guests—some in better condition than others (beat-up boards work just as well for beginners). You can also pick up a bodyboard from any discount shop, such as Target or Longs Drugs (now owned by CVS), for upwards of $30.

Auntie Snorkel

WATER SPORTS | FAMILY | You can rent decent bodyboards and other affordable water-sports equipment at Auntie Snorkel. Check online for specials and discounts. E2439 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/298–3021 wwww.auntiesnorkel.com ABodyboard rentals $6.95 a day or $20 a week.

Deep-Sea Fishing

If fishing is your sport, Maui is your island. In these waters, you’ll find ahi (yellowfin tuna), aku (skipjack tuna), barracuda, bonefish, kawakawa (bonito), mahi mahi (dolphinfish), Pacific blue marlin, ono (wahoo), and ulua (giant trevally). You can fish year-round, and you don’t need a license.

Plenty of fishing boats run out of Maalaea harbor. If you charter a private boat, expect to spend in the neighborhood of $700 to $1,000 for an exciting half-day in the swivel seat. You can share a boat for much less if you don’t mind close quarters with a stranger. lBecause boats fill up fast during busy seasons, make reservations before coming to Maui.

Before you sign up, you should know some boats keep the catch. Most, however, will fillet a nice piece for you to take home. And if you catch a real beauty, you might even be able to have it professionally mounted.

You’re expected to bring your lunch and beverages in unbreakable containers. (Shop the night before; it’s hard to find snacks at 5 am.) Boats supply coolers, ice, and bait. A 7.5% tax is added to the cost of a trip, and a 15%–20% tip for the crew is suggested.

BOATS AND CHARTERS

Strike Zone

FISHING | This charter company is one of the few to offer bottom-fishing trips (for smaller fish like snapper) and pelagic trips (for the big ones—ono [wahoo], ahi [yellowfin tuna], mahi mahi [dolphinfish], and marlin). Strike Zone is a 43-foot Delta with plenty of room for 28 people. Soft drinks and lunch or snacks included. The entire boat shares the catch. EMaalaea Harbor, 101 Maalaea Boat Harbor Rd., Slip 40, Maalaea P808/879–4485 wwww.strikezonemaui.com ASix-hour trip $208 per person for a pole; spectators $114. Four-hour charters offered on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. at $174.

Golf

It’s easy to explain Maui’s popularity with golfers: the island has a variety of challenging, well-designed courses, most with mesmerizing ocean views, others close enough to the ocean to feel the salt in the air. Holes run across small bays, past craggy lava outcrops, and up into cool forested mountains. Although many golf courses are affiliated with resorts (and therefore a little pricier), the public courses are no less impressive. Playing on Lanai is another option.

Greens Fees: Golf can be costly on Maui. Greens fees listed here are the highest course rates per round on weekdays and weekends for U.S. residents. (Some courses charge non-U.S. residents higher prices.) Rental clubs may or may not be included with the greens fee. Discounts are often available for resort guests, twilight tee times, and those who book online.

lResort courses, in particular, offer more than the usual three sets of tees, so bite off as much or as little challenge as you like. Tee it up from the tips, and you can play a few 600-yard par 5s and see a few 250-yard forced carries.

HThe Dunes at Maui Lani

GOLF | Robin Nelson is at his minimalist best here, creating British-style links in the middle of the Pacific. Holes run through ancient, lightly wooded dunes 5 miles inland from Kahului Harbor. Thanks to the natural humps and slopes of the dunes, Nelson had to move very little dirt and created a natural beauty. During the design phase, he visited Ireland, and not so coincidentally, the par-3 3rd looks a lot like the Dell at Lahinch: a white dune on the right sloping down into a deep bunker and partially obscuring the right side of the green—just one of several blind to semi-blind shots here. E1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului P808/873–0422 wdunesatmauilani.com AFrom $60 J18 holes, 6,841 yards, par 72.

Kaanapali Golf Courses

GOLF | In 1962, the Royal Kaanapali (North) Course opened and was one of three in Hawaii designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr., the godfather of modern golf architecture. The greens average a whopping 10,000 square feet, necessary because of the often-severe undulation. The par-4 18th hole course is challenging (the prevailing trade breezes, with out-of-bounds on the left and a lake on the right). Designed by Arthur Jack Snyder, the Kaanapali Kai (South) Course (opened in 1976) shares similar seaside-into-the-hills terrain. Still, it is rated a couple of strokes easier, mainly because putts are less treacherous. E2290 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina P808/661–3691, 866/454–4653 wkaanapaligolfcourses.com ARoyal Kaanapali (North) Course from $159; Kaanapali Kai (South) Course from $205 JRoyal Kaanapali (North) Course: 18 holes, 6,700 yards, par 71; Kaanapali Kai (South) Course: 18 holes, 6,400 yards, par 70.

HKapalua Golf

GOLF | Perhaps Hawaii’s best-known golf resort and the crown jewel of golf on Maui, Kapalua, hosts the PGA Tour’s first event each January: the Sentry Tournament of Champions at the Plantation Course. On this famed course, Ben Crenshaw and Bill Coore (1991) tried to incorporate traditional shot values in a nontraditional site, considering slope, gravity, and the prevailing trade winds. The par-5 18th hole, for instance, plays 663 yards from the back tees (600 yards from the resort tees). The cup drops 170 feet in elevation, narrowing as it goes to a partially guarded green, and plays downwind and down-grain. Despite the longer-than-usual distance, the slope is great enough, and the wind at your back is usually brisk enough to reach the green with two well-struck shots—a truly unbelievable finish to a course that will challenge, frustrate, and reward the patient golfer.

The Bay Course (Arnold Palmer and Francis Duane, 1975) is the more traditional of Kapalua’s courses, with gentle rolling fairways and generous greens. The most memorable hole is the par-3 5th hole, with a tee shot that must carry over a turquoise inlet of Oneloa Bay. Each of the courses has a separate clubhouse. E2000 Plantation Club Dr., Kapalua P808/669–8044, 877/527–2582 wgolfatkapalua.com APlantation Course $459, Bay Course $279 JPlantation Course: 18 holes, 7,411 yards, par 73. Bay Course: 18 holes, 6,600 yards, par 72.

Kapalua Golf Academy

GOLF | FAMILY | Designed by three-time U.S. Open Champion Hale Irwin, this state-of-the-art golf school and training facility has 23 acres of practice turf, an 18-hole putting course, and a three-hole walking course. It offers individual lessons, corporate clinics, golf schools, daily clinics, and custom off-site instruction by its renowned staff of PGA professionals. E1000 Office Rd., Kapalua P808/665–5455, 877/527–2582 wgolfatkapalua.com APrivate instruction starts at $165 for a 50-minute lesson.

Pukalani Country Club

GOLF | At 1,110 feet above sea level, Pukalani (Bob Baldock, 1980) provides one of the finest vistas in all Hawaii. Holes run up, down, and across the slopes of Haleakala. The trade winds tend to come up in the late morning and afternoon. Winds combined with frequent elevation change, makes club selection a test. The fairways tend to be wide, but greens are undulating and quick. E360 Pukalani St., Pukalani P808/572–1314 wwww.pukalanigolf.com A$68; Twilight rate $44 from 11 am–1 pm J18 holes, 6,962 yards, par 72.

Wailea Blue Course

GOLF | Wailea’s original course, the Blue Course (1971), nicknamed “The Grand Lady of Wailea,” operates from a clubhouse separate from the Gold and Emerald courses, its newer siblings. Here, judging elevation change is key. Fairways and greens tend to be broader and more forgiving than on the more recent courses, and they run through colorful flora that includes hibiscus, wiliwili, bougainvillea, and plumeria. E100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea P808/879–2530 wwaileagolf.com A$200 and up J18 holes, 6,765 yards, par 71.

HWailea Golf Club

GOLF | Wailea is the only Hawaii resort to offer three courses: Gold, Emerald, and Blue—the latter at a different location with another pro shop. Designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. (Gold and Emerald, 1994) and Arthur Jack Snyder (Blue), these courses share similar terrain, carved into the leeward slopes of Haleakala. Although the ocean does not come into play, its beauty is visible on almost every hole. lRemember, putts break dramatically toward the ocean.

The Gold Course is all trees and lava and is regarded as the hardest of the three courses, requiring careful club selection and a strategy. The trick here is to note even subtle changes in elevation. The par-3 8th, for example, plays from an elevated tee across a lava ravine to a large, well-bunkered green framed by palm trees, the blue sea, and tiny Molokini. The Emerald Course features lots of flowers and bunkering away from greens. Although this may seem to render the bunker benign, the opposite is true. A bunker well in front of a green disguises the distance to the hole. Likewise, the Emerald’s extensive flower beds are dangerous distractions because of their beauty. The Gold and Emerald courses share a clubhouse, practice facility, and 19th hole. E100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea P808/875–7450, 888/328–6284 wwaileagolf.com AGold Course $150, Emerald Course $279 JGold Course: 18 holes, 7,078 yards, par 72; Emerald Course: 18 holes, 6,825 yards, par 72.

Hang Gliding and Paragliding

If you’ve always wanted to know what flying feels like, hang gliding or paragliding might be your perfect Maui adventure. You’ll get open-air, bird’s-eye views of the Valley Isle that you’ll likely never forget. And you don’t need to be a daredevil to participate.

LESSONS AND TOURS

Hang Gliding Maui

HANG GLIDING & PARAGLIDING | Armin Engert will take you on an instructional powered hang-gliding trip out of Hana Airport in East Maui. With over 13,000 hours in the air and a perfect safety record, Armin flies you over Maui’s most beautiful coast. Snapshots of your flight from a wing-mounted camera cost an additional $50, and a 34-minute DVD of the flight from a wing-mounted camera is available for $100. Reservations are required. EHana Airport, Alalele Pl., off Hana Hwy., Hana P808/264–3287 wwww.hangglidingmaui.com A30-minute flight lesson $240, 45-minute lesson $320, and 60-minute lesson $400.

Paraglide Maui

HANG GLIDING & PARAGLIDING | The only paragliding outfit on Maui to offer solo, tandem, and instruction is at Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area. The leeward slope of Haleakala lends itself to paragliding with breathtaking scenery and air currents that increase during the day. Polipoli creates tremendous thermals that allow you to descend 3,000 feet peacefully to land. Solo paragliding certification is also available. E1100 Waipoli Rd., Kula P808/874–5433 wparaglidemaui.com ATandem instruction prices $195 to $395.

Hiking

Hikes on Maui include treks along the coastal seashore, verdant rainforest, and alpine desert. Orchids, hibiscus, ginger, heliconia, and anthuriums grow wild on many trails, and exotic fruits like mountain apple, lilikoi (passion fruit), and strawberry guava provide refreshing snacks for hikers. Don’t hike alone, wear bright clothing, stay on the trail, and be aware that you may encounter people who are hunting off the trail.

lHawaii possesses some of the world’s rarest plants, insects, and birds. Pocket field guides are available at most grocery or drug stores and can really illuminate your walk.

BEST SPOTS

HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK

HKeoneheehee Trail (Sliding Sands Trail)

HIKING & WALKING | Segments of this trail take you out and back from the Haleakala Visitor Center to overlooks at the summit as well as down into the crater (4 miles). If you’re in good physical condition, you can even make a full day of it, continuing all the way across the crater floor and finishing along the switchback Halemauu Trail on the other side. As you explore the crater’s alien landscape of reddish black cinders, lava bombs, and silverswords, it’s easy to imagine life before humans. Moderate to difficult. EHaleakala National Park jTrailhead: Haleakala Visitor Center P808/572–4400 wwww.nps.gov/hale A$15 per person or $30 per vehicle (valid for 3 days).

IAO VALLEY STATE MONUMENT

In Hawaiian, Iao means “supreme cloud.” When you enter this mystical valley in the middle of an unexpected rainforest near Wailuku in West Maui, you’ll know why. At 750 feet above sea level, the 10-mile valley clings to the clouds as if it’s trying to cover its naked beauty.

One of Maui’s great wonders, the valley is the site of a famous battle to unite the Hawaiian Islands. Out of the clouds, the Iao Needle, a tall chunk of volcanic rock, stands as a monument to the long-ago lookout for Maui warriors. Today, the valley is a peaceful land of lush tropical plants, clear pools and a running stream, and easy enjoyable strolls.

To get to Iao Valley State Monument, head to the western end of Route 32. The road dead-ends into the parking lot ($25 per car). The park is open daily 7 am–6 pm with an entrance fee ($5 per person). Facilities are available, but there is no drinking water.

HIao Needle Lookout Trail & Ethnobotanical Loop

HIKING & WALKING | FAMILY | Anyone can do this short walk from the parking lot at Iao Valley State Monument. On your choice of two paved walkways, you can cross the Iao Stream and explore the junglelike area. Ascend the stairs up to the Iao Needle for spectacular views of Central Maui. Be sure to stop at the lovely Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens, which commemorate the cultural contributions of various immigrant groups. Easy. ETrailhead: Iao Valley State Monument parking lot, Rte. 32, Wailuku wdlnr.hawaii.gov A$5 per person; $25 parking per car.

OHEO GULCH

Hikes in this national park take you through scenery and terrain that ranges from volcanic and lunar-like to lush and tropical. In the western (Upcountry) Summit District, Haleakala Volcano Crater is probably the biggest draw. In the eastern Kipahulu District, treks to waterfalls and Oheo Gulch, which is famous for its pools, are popular.

Before heading out, check on conditions as inclement weather can result in closures. Several trailheads are at or nearby visitor centers, which is convenient as you should check in with the park on arrival to get your bearings and pick up trail maps. Stay on the trails, and heed all signs about closures. Wear layered clothing and bring sunscreen and bug repellent. Regardless of the district you explore, shops and restaurants are miles away, and there’s potable water only at visitor centers, so come prepared with plenty of snacks and beverages.

HPipiwai Trail

HIKING & WALKING | This 4-mile, round-trip trek reveals two magnificent waterfalls: Makahiku Falls at about ½ mile in, and the grand-finale 400-foot Waimoku Falls, pounding down in all its power and glory. Following signs from the parking lot, head across the road and uphill into the forest. The trail borders a stunning gorge and passes onto a boardwalk through an impenetrable forest of giant bamboo. This stomp through muddy and rocky terrain has an 800-foot elevation gain and takes around three hours to enjoy fully. Although the trail is never truly crowded, it is popular. For a more peaceful experience, head out early in the day, before the tours arrive. Be sure to bring plenty of snacks and water, as well as mosquito repellent. Moderate. EHana Hwy., Haleakala National Park jTrailhead: Near Kipahulu Visitor Center (mile marker 42) P808/572–4400 wwww.nps.gov/hale A$15 per person or $30 per vehicle (valid for 3 days).

THE SOUTH SHORE AND WEST MAUI

In addition to the trails listed below, the Kapalua Resort offers free access to 100 miles of self-guided hikes. Trail information and maps are available at the Kapalua Adventure Center.

Hoapili Trail (King’s Trail)

HIKING & WALKING | This 5½-mile coastal trail beyond the Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve offers a challenging hike through eye-popping scenery. Named after a king, it follows the shoreline, threading through the remains of ancient villages. King Hoapili created an islandwide road, and this broad path of stacked lava rocks is a marvel to look at and walk on. (It’s not the easiest surface for the ankles and feet, so wear sturdy shoes.) The trail takes you through brutal territory with little shade and no facilities, and extra water is a must. To get here, follow Makena Road to La Perouse Bay. The trail can be a challenge to find—walk south along the ocean through the kiawe (mesquite, or algaroba) trees, where you’ll encounter numerous wild goats (don’t worry—they’re gentle), and past a scenic little bay. The trail begins just around the corner to the left. Difficult. EMakena Rd., Makena jTrailhead: La Perouse Bay.

Kapalua Resort

HIKING & WALKING | FAMILY | The resort offers free access to miles of hiking trails as a self-guided experience. Trail information and maps are available at the Kapalua Village Center. The Village Walking Trails offer a network of exercise opportunities on former golf cart paths, including the 3.6-mile Lake Loop, which features sweeping views and a secluded lake populated with quacking ducks. The Coastal Trail provides views of the ocean and wildlife as it crosses the golden sand dunes of Oneloa Bay and past Ironwood Beach and the Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, to its terminus at D. T. Fleming Beach Park. Sightings of green sea turtles, dolphins, and humpback whales (in season) are likely, along with wedge-tailed sheerwater seabirds called uau kani. Guided 1½-mile hikes on the coastal trail that include tide pool exploration are available for $100 through the Jean-Michel Cousteau Ambassadors of the Environment program at the Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua. Easy. E2000 Village Rd., corner of Office Rd., Kapalua P808/665–4386 Kapalua Village Center concierge, 808/665–7292 Jean-Michel Cousteau Ambassadors of the Environment wwww.kapalua.com.

GUIDES

Guided hikes can help you see more than you might on your own. If the company is driving you to the site, be sure to ask about drive times; they can be fairly lengthy for some hikes.

HFriends of Haleakala National Park

HIKING & WALKING | This nonprofit offers service-oriented trips into the national park that include daylong outings in the Summit District and multi-day backcountry excursions in the Kipahulu District. Although the work involved isn’t too heavy—mostly native planting, removing invasive plants, and light cabin maintenance—you should check the website to learn more and certify readiness for service work. A knowledgeable guide accompanies each trip, taking you to places you’d otherwise miss and teaching you about the native flora and fauna. EMakawao P808/876–1673 wfhnp.org AFree.

HHike Maui

HIKING & WALKING | Started in 1983, the area’s oldest hiking company remains extremely well regarded for its treks led by enthusiastic, highly trained guides who weave botany, geology, ethnobotany, culture, and history into the outdoor experience. The seven-hour Haleakala tour includes two hikes, each revealing vastly different environments that make up this national park. The 11-hour Hana excursion takes you to the park’s remote eastern edge, where you’ll explore a bamboo forest that leads to a stunning 400-foot waterfall, among other stops. Hike Maui supplies day packs, rain gear, mosquito repellent, first-aid supplies, bottled water, snacks, lunch, and transportation to and from the site. EKahului P808/879–5270 wwww.hikemaui.com AFrom $109.

Sierra Club

HIKING & WALKING | One great avenue into the island’s untrammeled wilderness is Maui’s chapter of the Sierra Club. Join one of its hikes into pristine forests along ancient coastal paths, historic sites, and Haleakala Crater. Some outings require volunteer service, but most are just for fun. Bring your own food and water, rain gear, sunscreen, sturdy shoes, and a suggested donation of $5 for hikers over age 14 ($3 for Sierra Club members). This is a true bargain. EPaia P808/867–6001 wmauisierraclub.org.

Horseback Riding

Circle M Ranch

HORSEBACK RIDING | FAMILY | Operating out of the beautiful ranchland of Kahakuloa on the windward slopes of the West Maui Mountains, this outfit offers two-hour morning or afternoon trail rides for ages 7 and up. Paniolos (local cowboys) take you cantering up rolling pastures into the lush rainforest, and then you’ll descend all the way down to the ocean for a photo op with a dramatic backdrop. Don’t expect a Hawaiian cultural experience here—it’s all about the horses and the ride. E3530 Kahekili Hwy., Wailuku P800/871–5222 wcirclemranchmaui.com AFrom $180.

Kayaking

Kayaking is a fantastic and eco-friendly way to cruise out to vibrant, living coral reefs and waters where dolphins and even whales roam. The experience can be a leisurely paddle or a challenge of heroic proportions, depending on your ability, the weather, and location, as, in some places, a calm surface can hide powerful ocean currents.

lAlthough you can rent kayaks independently, we recommend hiring a guide. Most guides are naturalists who will steer you away from surging surf, lead you to pristine reefs, and point out camouflaged fish, like the stalking hawkfish. Not having to schlep your gear on top of your rental car is a bonus. A half-day tour runs around $75.

If you decide to strike out on your own, tour companies will rent kayaks for the day with paddles, life vests, and roof racks, and many will meet you near your chosen location. Ask for a map of good entries and plan to avoid paddling back to shore against the wind (schedule extra time for the return trip regardless). Check weather conditions, bring binoculars, and take a careful look from the bay before heading in. Arrive early, before the trade wind kicks in, and stick close to shore. If you also plan to snorkel, secure your belongings in a dry pack on board and drag your kayak by its bowline behind you. (This isn’t as hard as it sounds.)

BEST SPOTS

Makena Landing is an excellent starting point for a South Shore adventure. Enter from the paved parking lot or the small sandy beach a little south. The shoreline is lined with million-dollar mansions. The bay itself is virtually empty, but the right edge is flanked with brilliant coral heads and juvenile turtles. If you round the point on the right, you come across Five Caves, a system of enticing underwater arches. In the morning you may see dolphins, and the arches are havens for lobsters, eels, and spectacularly hued butterfly fish.

In West Maui, past the steep cliffs on the Honoapiilani Highway, there’s a long stretch of inviting coastline that includes Ukumehame Beach. This is a good spot for beginners; entry is easy, and there’s much to see in every direction. Pay attention if trade winds pick up from the late morning onward; paddling against them can be challenging. If you want to snorkel, the best visibility is farther out at Olowalu Beach. Watch for sharp kiawe (mesquite) thorns buried in the sand on the way into the water. Water shoes are recommended.

EQUIPMENT AND TOURS

Kelii’s Kayak Tours

KAYAKING | FAMILY | One of the highest-rated kayak outfitters on the island, Kelii’s offers kayaking trips and combo adventures where you can also surf, snorkel, or hike to a waterfall. Leading groups of up to eight people, the guides show what makes each reef unique. Most popular is the kayak and snorkel combo to Turtle Town—explore colorful reefs filled with endangered green sea turtles, and you might see a dolphin or two. Trips are available on the island’s north, south, and west shores. E1993 S. Kihei Rd., Suite 12, Kihei P808/874–7652 wkeliiskayak.com AFrom $99.

HSouth Pacific Kayaks

KAYAKING | FAMILY | These guys pioneered recreational kayaking on Maui, so they know their stuff. Guides are friendly, informative, and eager to help you get the most out of your experience; we’re talking genuine, fun-loving, kayak geeks who will maneuver away from crowds when exploring prime snorkel spots. South Pacific stands out as adventurous and environmentally responsible, plus their gear and equipment are well maintained. They offer a variety of trips leaving from both West Maui and South Shore locations. E95 Halekuai St., Kihei P808/875–4848 wsouthpacifickayaks.com AFrom $85.

Rafting

The high-speed inflatables you find on Maui are nothing like the raft that Huck Finn used to drift down the Mississippi. While you grip straps, these rafts fly, skimming and bouncing across the sea. Because they’re so maneuverable, they go where the big boats can’t—secret coves, sea caves, and remote beaches.

lAlthough safe, these trips are not for the faint of heart. If you have back or neck problems or are pregnant, you should reconsider this activity.

TOURS

Blue Water Rafting

RAFTING | One of the few ways to get to the stunning Kanaio Coast (the roadless southern coastline beyond Ahihi-Kinau), this rafting tour begins conveniently at the Kihei Boat Ramp on the South Shore. Dolphins, turtles, and other marine life are the highlight of this adventure, along with majestic sea caves, lava arches, and views of Haleakala. The Molokini stop is usually timed between the bigger catamarans, so you can enjoy the crater without the usual massive crowd. If conditions permit, you’ll be able to snorkel the back wall, which has much more marine life than the inside. EKihei Boat Ramp, S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–7238 wbluewaterrafting.com AFrom $75.

HRedline Rafting

RAFTING | This company’s snorkeling raft tours begin with a trip to Molokini Crater. If weather permits, the raft explores the crater’s back wall, too. There’s a quick stop at La Perouse Bay to spot dolphins, and then it’s off to Makena for more underwater fun and a deli lunch. Whale-watching trips are also offered. The rafts provide great seating, comfort, and shade. EKihei Boat Ramp, 2800 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/201–7450 wredlinerafting.com ASnorkel trips from $139, whale-watching trips from $85.

Sailing

With the islands of Molokai, Lanai, Kahoolawe, and Molokini a stone’s throw away, Maui’s waters offer visually arresting backdrops for sailing adventures. Conditions can be fickle, so some operations throw in snorkeling or whale-watching, and others offer sunset cruises. Winds are consistent in summer but variable in winter, and afternoons are generally windier throughout the year.

lYou won’t be sheltered from the elements on the trim racing boats, so be sure to bring a hat that won’t blow away, a light jacket, sunglasses, and sunscreen.

BOATS AND CHARTERS

Paragon Sailing Charters

SAILING | FAMILY | Many snorkel cruises claim to sail, but motor most of the way—Paragon is an exception. Its catamarans are shipshape, and crews are accommodating and friendly. Its mooring in Molokini Crater is particularly good, and tours will often stay after the masses have left. The Lanai trip includes a picnic lunch at Manele Bay, snorkeling, and a quick afternoon blue-water swim. Extras on the trips to Lanai include mai tais, sodas, dessert, and Champagne. EMaalaea Harbor, Maalaea P808/244–2087 wwww.sailmaui.com AFrom $180.

HTrilogy Excursions

SAILING | FAMILY | With more than four decades of experience and some good karma from their reef-cleaning campaigns, Trilogy has an excellent reputation in the community. It’s one of only two companies that sail to Molokini Crater rather than motor. The two-hour sunset sail includes appetizers, beer, wine, Champagne, margaritas, and mai tais. Tours depart from Maalaea Harbor in West Maui and in front of the Kaanapali Beach Hotel. EMaalaea Harbor, 300 Maalaea Rd., Maalaea P808/874–5649, 888/225–6284 wsailtrilogy.com AFrom $109.

Scuba Diving

Maui has been rated one of the top 10 dive spots in the United States, and some of the finest locations in all of Hawaii lie along its western and southwestern shores. It’s common to see huge sea turtles, eagle rays, and small reef sharks, not to mention many varieties of angelfish, parrotfish, eels, and octopuses. Unlike other popular dive destinations, most of the species are unique to the area.

The terrain itself is also different from other dive spots. Here you can find ancient and intricate lava flows full of nooks where marine life hide and breed. Although the water tends to be a bit rougher—not to mention colder—divers are given an incredible thrill during the humpback-whale season, when you can hear whales singing underwater.

Dives are best in the morning when visibility can hold a steady 100 feet. If you’re a certified diver, you can rent gear at any Maui dive shop simply by showing your PADI or NAUI card. Unless you’re familiar with the area, however, it’s probably best to hook up with a dive shop for an underwater tour. Shops also offer introductory dives for those who aren’t certified.

lBefore signing on with any outfitter, it’s a good idea to ask a few pointed questions about your guide’s experience, the weather outlook, and the condition of the equipment.

BEST SPOTS

Honolua Bay, a marine preserve in West Maui, is alive with many varieties of coral and tame tropical fish, including large ulua (giant trevally), kahala (jack fish family), barracuda, and manta rays. With depths of 20–50 feet, this is a popular summer dive spot, good for all levels. lHigh surf often prohibits winter dives.

On the South Shore, one of the most popular dive spots is Makena Landing (also called Nahuna Point, Five Graves, or Five Caves). You can revel in underwater delights—caves, ledges, coral heads, and an outer reef home to a large green–sea turtle colony called Turtle Town. lEntry is rocky lava, so be careful where you step. This area is for more experienced divers.

Three miles offshore from Wailea on the South Shore, Molokini Crater is world-renowned for its deep, crystal clear, fish-filled waters. A crescent-shape islet formed by the eroding top of a volcano, the crater is a marine preserve ranging 10–80 feet deep. The numerous tame fish and brilliant coral within the crater make it a popular introductory dive site. On calm days, the back side of Molokini Crater (called Back Wall) can be a dramatic sight for advanced divers, with visibility of up to 150 feet. The enormous drop-off into the Alalakeiki Channel offers awesome seascapes, black coral, and chance sightings of larger fish and sharks.

Some of the southern coast’s best diving is at Ahihi Bay, part of the Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve. The area frequently closes due to shark sightings; call ahead before visiting. The area is best known for its “Fishbowl,” a small cove right beside the road, next to a hexagonal house. Here you can find excellent underwater scenery, with many types of fish and coral. lBe careful of the rocky-bottom entry (wear reef shoes if you have them).

The Fishbowl can get crowded, especially in high season. If you want to steer clear of the crowds, look for a second entry ½ mile farther down the road—a gravel parking lot at the surf spot called Dumps. Entry into the bay here is trickier, as the coastline is all lava.

Formed from the last lava flow two centuries ago, La Perouse Bay brings you the best variety of fish—more than any other site. The lava rock provides a protective habitat, and all four types of Hawaii’s angelfish can be found here. To dive into the spot called Pinnacles, enter anywhere along the shore, just past the private entrance to the beach. Wear your reef shoes, as entry is sharp. To the right, you’ll be in the Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve; to the left, you’re outside. Look for the white sandy bottom with massive coral heads. Pinnacles is for experienced divers only.

EQUIPMENT, LESSONS, AND TOURS

Maui Dive Shop

SCUBA DIVING | Maui Dive Shop offers scuba charters, diving instruction, and equipment rental, as well as excursions to Molokini, Shipwreck Beach, and Cathedrals on Lanai. Intro dives are done offshore. Night dives, scooter dives, and customized trips are available, as are full SSI and PADI certificate programs. E24 Hale Kuai St., Kihei P808/875–0333 local, 800/542–3483 toll free in the U.S. wmauidiveshop.com AFrom $109.

HMike Severns Diving

SCUBA DIVING | This popular and reliable company has been around for more than four decades and takes groups of up to seven certified divers, with two dive masters, to both popular and off-the-beaten-path sites. Marine biologists or naturalists offer informative briefings, and boat trips leave from Kihei Boat Ramp and go wherever conditions are best: the Molokini Marine Life Conservation District, Molokini Crater’s Back Wall, Makena, or beyond La Perouse Bay. EKihei Boat Ramp, 2988 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/879–6596 wwww.mikesevernsdiving.com ADives from $224 (BYO gear) or $269 (gear included).

Snorkeling

There are two ways to approach snorkeling—by land or by sea. At around 7 am daily, a parade of boats heads out to Lanai or to Molokini Crater, that ancient cone of volcanic cinder off the coast of Wailea. Boat trips offer some advantages—deeper water, seasonal whale-watching, crew assistance, lunch, and gear. But much of Maui’s best snorkeling is found just steps from the road.

Nearly the entire leeward coastline from Kapalua south to Ahihi-Kinau offers opportunities to ogle fish and turtles. If you’re patient and sharp-eyed, you may glimpse eels, octopuses, lobsters, eagle rays, and even a rare shark or monk seal. lVisibility is best in the morning, before the trade winds pick up.

BEST SPOTS

The Honolua Bay Marine Life Conservation District has a superb reef for snorkeling north of Kapalua. The coral formations on the right side of the bay are particularly dramatic, with pink, aqua, and orange varieties. On a lucky day, you might even snorkel with a dolphin pod nearby. Take care entering the water; there’s no beach, and the rocks and concrete ramp can be slippery. The northeast corner of this windward bay periodically gets hammered by giant waves in winter. Avoid the bay then, as well as after heavy rains. lBring a fish key with you, as you will surely see many species of triggerfish, filefish, and wrasses.

Minutes south of Honolua Bay, dependable Kapalua Bay beckons. As beautiful above the water as below, Kapalua is exceptionally calm, even when other spots get testy. Needle and butterfly fish dart just past the sandy beach, which is why it’s sometimes crowded. lThe sand can be particularly hot here—watch your toes!

Puu Kekaa (nicknamed Black Rock), in front of the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa at the northernmost tip of Kaanapali Beach, is great for snorkelers of any skill level. The entry couldn’t be easier—dump your towel on the sand, and in you go. Beginners can stick close to shore and still see lots of action. Advanced snorkelers can swim to the tip of Puu Kekaa to catch larger fish and eagle rays. One of the underwater residents here is a turtle whose hefty size earned him the name Volkswagen. He sits very still, so you have to look closely. Equipment can be rented on-site. Parking, which is in a small lot adjoining the hotel, is the only hassle.

Along Honoapiilani Highway are several favorite snorkel sites, including the area just out from the cemetery at Hanakaoo Beach Park. At depths of 5 and 10 feet, you can see a variety of corals, especially as you head south toward Wahikuli Wayside Park.

South of Olowalu General Store, the shallow coral reef at Olowalu is good for a quick underwater tour. Still, if you venture out about 50 yards, you’ll have easy access to an expansive coral reef with abundant turtles and fish—no boat required. Swim offshore toward the pole sticking out of the reef. Except during a south swell, this area is calm and suitable for families with small children. Boats sometimes stop here (they refer to this site as Coral Gardens) when conditions in Honolua Bay are not ideal. lDuring low tide, be extra cautious when hovering above the razor-sharp coral.

Excellent snorkeling is found down the coastline between Kihei and Makena on the South Shore. The best spots are along the rocky fringes of Wailea’s beaches—Mokapu, Ulua, Wailea, and Polo—off Wailea Alanui Drive.

Find one of the public parking lots sandwiched between Wailea’s luxury resorts (look for a blue sign reading “Shoreline Access” with an arrow pointing to the lot). Enjoy the sandy and calm waters with relatively good visibility and various fish. Of the four beaches, Ulua has the best reef. You may listen to snapping shrimp and parrotfish nibbling on coral.

In South Maui, the end of the paved section of Makena Road is where you’ll find the Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve. Despite its lava-scorched landscape, the area is trendy, especially with sharks, causing it to be closed frequently. Call ahead to make sure it’s open. It’s rugged terrain and sometimes crowded, but it’s worth visiting to experience some of the reserve’s outstanding treasures, such as the sheltered cove known as the Fish Bowl. lBe sure to bring water: this is a hot and unforgiving wilderness.

Between Maui and neighboring Kahoolawe, you’ll find the world-famous Molokini Crater. Its crescent-shaped rim acts as a protective cover from the wind and provides a sanctuary for birds and colorful marine life. Most snorkeling tour operators offer a Molokini trip, and it’s not unusual for your charter to share this dormant volcano with five or six other boats. The journey to this sunken crater takes an hour from Maalaea and less than 30 minutes from the South Shore.

EQUIPMENT

Most hotels and vacation rentals offer complimentary use of snorkel gear. Beachside stands fronting the major resort areas rent equipment by the hour or day. If you’re squeamish about using someone else’s gear (or need a prescription lens), pick up your own at any discount shop. Costco and Longs Drugs have better prices than ABC Stores; dive shops have superior equipment.

lDon’t shy away from asking for instructions; a snug fit makes all the difference in the world. A mask fits if it sticks to your face when you inhale deeply through your nose. Fins should cover your entire foot (unlike diving fins, which strap around your heel).

Maui Dive Shop

SNORKELING | FAMILY | You can rent pro gear (including optical masks, bodyboards, and wet suits) by the day or the week. Be sure to pump staffers for weather info before heading out; they’ll know better than last night’s news forecaster and will give you the real deal on conditions. E1455 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/875–0333 wmauidiveshop.com.

Snorkel Bob’s

SNORKELING | FAMILY | When you rent fins, masks, and snorkels, Snorkel Bob’s will throw in a carrying bag, map, and snorkel tips. Avoid the circle masks and go for the split-level or premium snorkel package; it’s worth the extra money. There are seven Snorkel Bob’s locations on Maui, including Kihei, Wailea, Kahana, and Napili. E5425 C Lower Honoapiilani Hwy., Napili P808/669–9603 wsnorkelbob.com AWeekly rentals from $10.

SNORKELING TOURS

The same boats that offer sailing and diving also offer snorkeling excursions. Trips usually include visits to two locales, lunch, gear, instruction, and possible whale or dolphin sightings. Some captains troll for fish along the way.

The most popular snorkel cruise destination is Molokini Crater, a crescent about 3 miles offshore from Wailea. You can spend half a day floating above the fish-filled crater for about $80. Some say it’s not as good as it’s made out to be and that it’s too crowded, but others consider it one of the best spots in Hawaii. Visibility is generally outstanding, and fish are incredibly tame. Your second stop will be somewhere along the leeward coast, either Turtle Town near Makena or Coral Gardens toward Lahaina.

lOn windy mornings, there’s a good chance the waters will be too rough to moor in Molokini Crater, and you’ll end up snorkeling somewhere off the shore, where you could have driven for free.

If you’ve tried snorkeling and are tentatively thinking about scuba, you may want to try “snuba,” a cross between the two. With snuba, you dive 20 feet below the surface while attached to an air hose from the boat. Many boats now offer snuba (for an extra fee of $45–$65) and snorkeling.

Snorkel cruises vary—some serve mai tais and steaks, whereas others offer beer and cold cuts. You might prefer a large ferryboat to a smaller sailboat, or vice versa. Be sure you know where to go to board your vessel; getting lost in the harbor at 6 am is a lousy start to your day.

Bring sunscreen, an underwater camera (they’re double the price onboard), a towel, and a cover-up for the windy return trip. Even tropical waters get chilly after hours of swimming, so consider wearing a rash guard or renting a wet suit.

Alii Nui Maui

SNORKELING | FAMILY | On this 65-foot luxury catamaran, you can come as you are (with a bathing suit, of course); towels, sunblock, and all your gear are provided. Because the owners also operate Maui Dive Shop, snorkel and dive equipment are top-of-the-line. Wet-suit tops are available to use for sun protection or to keep extra warm in the water. The boat, which holds a maximum of 60 people, is nicely appointed. A morning snorkel sail (there’s a diving option, too) heads to Turtle Town or Molokini Crater and includes a continental breakfast, lunch, and post-snorkel alcoholic drinks. The three-, five-, or six-hour snorkel trip offers transportation from your hotel. Videography and huka (similar to snuba) are available for a fee. EMaalaea Harbor, Slip 56, Maalaea P800/542–3483, 808/875–0333 waliinuimaui.com AFrom $109.

Maui Classic Charters

SNORKELING | FAMILY | Hop aboard the Four Winds II, a 55-foot, glass-bottom catamaran (great fun for kids), for one of the most dependable snorkel trips around. You’ll spend more time than other charter boats at Molokini Crater and enjoy turtle-watching on the way home. The trip includes optional snuba ($62 extra), continental breakfast, barbecue lunch, beer, wine, and soda. With its reasonable price, the trip can be popular and crowded. The crew works hard to keep everyone happy, but if the trip is fully booked, you will be cruising with more than 100 new friends. For a more intimate experience, opt for the Maui Magic, Maalaea’s fastest PowerCat, which holds fewer people than some of the larger vessels. EMaalaea Harbor, Slips 55 and 80, Maalaea P808/879–8188, 800/736–5740 wmauiclassiccharters.com AFrom $110.

Teralani Sailing Charters

SNORKELING | Choose between a standard or premier snorkel trip with a deli lunch or a top-of-the-line excursion that’s an hour longer and includes two snorkel sites and a barbecue-style lunch. The company’s cats are kept in pristine condition and could hold well over 100 people, but 49 is the maximum per trip. Freshwater showers are available, as is an open bar after the second snorkel stop. A friendly crew provides all your gear, a flotation device, and a quick course in snorkeling. During whale season, only the premier trip is available. Boarding is right off Kaanapali Beach, fronting the Westin Maui Hotel. EKaanapali Beach, Kaanapali P808/661–7245 wteralani.net AFrom $90.

HTrilogy Excursions

SNORKELING | Many people consider a trip with Trilogy Excursions to be a highlight of their vacation. Maui’s longest-running operation has comprehensive offerings, with six beautiful 54- to 65-foot sailing vessels at three departure sites. All excursions are staffed by energetic crews who will keep you well-fed and entertained with local stories and corny jokes. A full-day catamaran cruise to Lanai includes a continental breakfast and barbecue lunch, a guided tour of the island, a “Snorkeling 101” class, and time to snorkel in the waters of Lanai’s Hulopoe Marine Preserve (Trilogy Excursions has exclusive commercial access). The company also offers Molokini Crater and Olowalu snorkel cruises that are top-notch. Tours depart from Maalaea Harbor or Kaanapali Beach. EKaanapali Beach, Lahaina P808/874–5649, 888/225–6284 wsailtrilogy.com AFrom $165.

Stand-Up Paddleboarding

Also called stand-up paddle surfing or paddleboarding, stand-up paddling is the “comeback kid” of surf sports; you stand on a longboard and paddle out with a canoe oar. While stand-up paddling requires even more balance and coordination than regular surfing, it is still accessible to every skill level. Most surf schools now offer stand-up paddle lessons. Advanced paddlers can amp up the adrenaline with a downwind coastal run that spans almost 10 miles from North Shore’s Maliko Gulch to Kahului Harbor, sometimes reaching speeds up to 30 mph.

The fun thing about stand-up paddling is that you can enjoy it whether the surf is good or the water is flat. However, as with all water sports, being attentive and reading the environment is essential. Look at the sky and assess the wind by how fast the clouds move. Note where the whitecaps are going, and always point the nose of your board perpendicular to the wave.

Some surfing outfitters (like Big Kahuna Adventures, Outrageous Surf School, and Second Wind Maui) offer lessons and/or rental gear. lBecause of the size and speed of a longboard, stand-up paddling can be dangerous, so lessons are highly recommended, especially if you intend to surf.

Surfing

Maui’s coastline has surf for every skill level. Waves on leeward-facing shores (West and South Maui) tend to break in gentle sets all summer long. Area surfing operations can rent you boards, give you onshore instruction, and then lead you out through the channel, where it’s safe to enter the surf. They’ll shout encouragement while you paddle like mad for the thrill of standing on the water—most will give you a helpful shove. These areas are great for beginners; the only danger is whacking a stranger with your board or stubbing your toe against the reef.

The North Shore is another story. Winter waves pound the windward coast, attracting water champions from every corner of the world. Jet Skis tow in adrenaline addicts to “Jaws,” the legendary deep-sea break. Waves here periodically tower upward of 40 feet. The only spot for viewing this phenomenon (which happens just a few times a year) is on private property so, if you hear the surfers next to you crowing about “Jaws going off,” cozy up and get them to take you with them.

Whatever your skill, there’s a board, a break, and even a surf guru to accommodate you. A two-hour lesson is a good intro to surf culture. You can get the wave report each day by checking page 2 of the Maui News, logging on to the Glenn James weather site (wwww.hawaiiweathertoday.com), or by calling P808/871–5054 (for the weather forecast) or P808/877–3611 (for the surf report).

BEST SPOTS

On the South Shore, beginners can hang ten at Kihei’s Cove Park, a sometimes crowded but reliable one- to two-foot break. Boards can easily be rented across the street or neighboring Kalama Park’s parking lot. Balancing the nine-plus-foot board on your head while crossing busy South Kihei Road is the only bummer.

For advanced wave riders, Hookipa Beach Park on the North Shore boasts several well-loved breaks, including “Pavilions,” “Lanes,” “the Point,” and “Middles.” Surfers have priority until 11 am when windsurfers move in on the action. lCompetition is stiff here. If you don’t know what you’re doing, consider watching.

Long- or short boarders in West Maui can paddle out at Launiupoko Beach Park. The park’s east end has an easy break, suitable for beginners. Also called Thousand Peaks, Ukumehame is one of the better beginner spots in West Maui. You’ll soon see how the spot got its name—the waves here repeatedly break in wide and consistent rows, giving lots of room for beginning and intermediate surfers.

Other good surf spots in West Maui include “Grandma’s” at Papalaua Park, just after the pali (cliff), where waves are so easy a grandma could ride them. Puamana Beach Park for a mellow longboard day.

EQUIPMENT AND LESSONS

Maui is the perfect place to learn to surf, with plenty of fantastic surf schools offering lessons that guarantee you’ll catch a wave on your first day. Surf camps are becoming increasingly popular. One- or two-week camps offer a terrific way to build muscle and self-esteem simultaneously. Note, too, that some surf operations also accommodate those interested in stand-up paddleboarding or other water sports.

Big Kahuna Adventures

SURFING | FAMILY | With Big Kahuna Adventures everyone in the family can learn how to surf or stand-up paddleboard. Its truck is located at Kalama Park, classes occur at Cove Park, and gear rentals are available. EKalama Park, 1900 S Kihei Rd., Kihei P808/283–9749 wbigkahunaadventures.com ALessons from $95.

HHi-Tech Surf Sports

SURFING | Hi-Tech has some of the best boards, advice, and attitude around. It rents even its best surfboards—choose from longboards, shortboards, and hybrids—starting at $25 per day. There’s another shop in Paia and a third location in Kihei across of Cove Park, a popular surf spot for beginners. E425 Koloa St., Kahului P808/877–2111 wwww.surfmaui.com.

Maui Surfer Girls

SURFING | FAMILY | Maui Surfer Girls started in 2001 with seasonal surf camps for teen girls but expanded to offer year-round surfing lessons for men, women, boys, and girls. The woman-owned operation specializes in private lessons and small groups, with a ratio of four students per instructor that’s the smallest in the industry. EUkumehame Beach Park, Lahaina P808/214–0606 wwww.mauisurfergirls.com AGroup lesson $99, semi-private $145, private $209.

Whale-Watching

From December into May, whale-watching becomes one of the most popular activities on Maui. During the season, all outfitters offer whale-watching in addition to their regular activities, and most do an excellent job. Boats leave the wharf at Maalaea in search of humpbacks, allowing you to enjoy the awe-inspiring size of these creatures in closer proximity. In February or March, the Pacific Whale Foundation sponsors the Maui Whale Festival with a variety of whale-related events, including a film festival, for locals and visitors. Check the calendar at wwww.pacificwhale.org.

The Humpbacks’ Winter Home s

The humpback whales’ attraction to Maui is legendary, and seeing them from December to May is a highlight. More than half the Pacific’s humpback population winters in Hawaii, especially around the Valley Isle, where mothers can be seen just a few hundred feet offshore, training their young calves in the fine points of whale etiquette. From shore, it’s easy to see whales spouting or breaching—when they leap almost entirely out of the sea, slapping back onto the water with a huge splash.

There were thousands of these giant mammals, but a history of overhunting and marine pollution reduced the world population to about 1,500. In 1966, humpbacks were put on the endangered species list. Hunting or harassing whales is illegal in the waters of most nations, and in the United States, boats and airplanes are prohibited from getting too close. However, the jury is still out on the effects of military sonar testing on marine mammals.

Marine biologists believe the humpbacks (like humans) keep returning to Hawaii because of its warmth. Having fattened themselves in subarctic waters all summer, the whales migrate south in the winter to breed, and a rebounding population of thousands cruises Maui waters. Winter is calving time, and the young whales probably couldn’t survive in the frigid Alaskan waters. No one has ever seen a whale give birth here, but experts know that calving is their main winter activity because the 1- and 2-ton youngsters suddenly appear while the whales are in residence.

Each season, the first sighting of a humpback whale spouts is exciting for locals. A collective sigh of relief can be heard: “Ah, they’ve returned.” Flukes and flippers can rise above the ocean’s surface at a not-so-far distance. It’s hard not to anthropomorphize the tail waving; it looks like a friendly gesture. Each fluke is uniquely patterned, like a human’s fingerprint, and is used to identify the giants as they travel halfway around the globe and back.

As it’s almost impossible not to see whales in winter on Maui, you’ll want to prioritize. If close encounters with the giants of the deep are your desire, pick a smaller boat that promises sightings. Those who think “green” will prefer the smaller, quieter vessels with the least amount of negative impact on the whales’ natural environment. You should also opt for a smaller boat with fewer bookings if you prefer not to squeeze in beside strangers.

If you want to sip mai tais as whales cruise by, stick with a sunset cruise ($50 and up) on a boat with an open bar and pupus (appetizers). Prime viewing space (on the upper and lower decks, around the railings) is limited, so even larger boats can feel crowded even when half full.

Every captain aims to please during whale season, getting as close as legally possible (100 yards). Crew members know when a whale is about to dive (after several waves of its heart-shaped tail) but can rarely predict breaches (when it hurls itself up and almost entirely out of the water). Be aware that winter weather is unpredictable, and, at times, can be extreme. lAfternoon trips are generally rougher because the wind picks up, but some say this is when the most surface action occurs.

Don’t forget to bring sunscreen, sunglasses, a light long-sleeve cover-up, and a hat you can secure. Finally, be sure to arrive early to find parking.

BEST SPOTS

The northern end of Keawakapu Beach on the South Shore seems to be a whale magnet. Sit on the sand or at the nearby restaurant and watch mamas and calves at play. From mid-December to mid-April, the Pacific Whale Foundation has naturalists at Ulua Beach and the scenic viewpoint at Papawai Point Lookout. You can spot whales along the pali of West Maui’s Honoapiilani Highway all day long. Make sure to park safely before trying to take that perfect photo.

BOATS AND CHARTERS

Gemini Sailing Charters

WHALE-WATCHING | FAMILY | Morning and afternoon whale-watching trips off the Kaanapali coast are available on this outfit’s well-maintained catamaran staffed by experienced and fun crews. You can find Gemini on Kaanapali Beach in front of the Westin Maui Resort & Spa. E2365 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina P808/669–1700 local, 800/820–7245 toll-free wwww.geminisailing.com AFrom $83.

HPacific Whale Foundation

WHALE-WATCHING | FAMILY | This nonprofit organization pioneered whale-watching back in 1979. The crew includes a certified marine naturalist who offers insights into whale behavior and suggests ways for you to help save marine life worldwide. One of the best things about these trips is the underwater hydrophone that lets you hear the whales sing. Trips meet at the organization’s store, which sells whale-theme and local souvenirs. You’ll share the boat with a large group of people in stadium-style seating. If you prefer a smaller crowd, book their small-group experience instead. EMaalaea Harbor, 300 Maalaea Rd., Lahaina P808/249–8811 wwww.pacwhale.com/cruises AFrom $88.

Windsurfing

Windsurfing, invented in the 1950s, found its true home at Hookipa on Maui’s North Shore in 1980. Seemingly overnight, pros from around the world flooded the area. Equipment evolved, amazing film footage was captured, and a new sport was born.

If you’re new to the action, you can learn from the experts islandwide. For a beginner, the best thing about windsurfing is that (unlike surfing) you don’t have to paddle. Instead, you have to hold on tight to a flapping sail as it whisks you into the wind. Needless to say, you’re going to need a little coordination and balance to pull this off. Instructors start you out on a beach at Kanaha. Lessons range from two-hour introductory classes to five-day advanced “flight school.”

BEST SPOTS

After Hookipa Bay was discovered by windsurfers more than four decades ago, this windy North Shore beach 10 miles east of Kahului gained an international reputation. The spot has optimal wave-sailing wind and sea conditions.

The windsurfing crowd heads to Kalepolepo Beach on the South Shore in the summer. Trade winds build in strength, and by afternoon, a swarm of dragonfly sails can be seen skimming the whitecaps, with Mauna Kahalawai (the West Maui Mountains) as a backdrop.

An excellent site for speed, Kanaha Beach Park is dedicated to beginners in the morning hours before the waves and wind get roaring. After 11 am, the professionals choose the size and shape best suited for the day’s demands. This beach tends to have smaller waves and forceful winds—sometimes sending sailors flying at 40 knots. If you aren’t ready to go pro, this is an excellent place for a picnic while you watch from the beach. To get here, use any of the three entrances on Amala Place, which runs along the shore just north of Kahului Airport.

EQUIPMENT AND LESSONS

Action Sports Maui

WINDSURFING | FAMILY | The friendly pros will meet you at Kanaha Beach Park on the North Shore, outfit you with your sail and board, and guide you through your first “jibe,” or turn. They promise that your learning time for windsurfing will be cut in half. Lessons begin at 9 am every day except Sunday. E720 Amala Pl., Kahului P808/283–7913 wactionsportsmaui.com ALessons from $345.

HHawaiian Sailboarding Techniques

WINDSURFING | Considered one of Maui’s finest windsurfing schools, Hawaiian Sailboarding Techniques brings you quality instruction by skilled sailors. Founded by Alan Cadiz, an accomplished World Cup Pro, the school sets high standards for a safe, quality windsurfing experience. The company is inside Hi-Tech Surf Sports, which offers excellent equipment rentals. EHi-Tech Surf Sports, 425 Koloa St., Kahului P808/871–5423 whstwindsurfing.com ALessons from $189.

Zip-Lining

Zip-lining lets you satisfy your inner Tarzan by soaring high above Maui’s deep gulches and canyons—for a price that can seem steep. Each course has age minimums and weight restrictions, but generally, you must be at least 10 years old and weigh a minimum of 60–80 pounds and a maximum of 230–250 pounds. You should wear closed-toe athletic-type shoes and expect to get dirty. lReconsider this activity if you are pregnant, uncomfortable with heights, or have serious back or joint problems.

HFlyin’ Hawaiian Zipline

ZIP-LINING | FAMILY | This outfit has the longest line in the state (a staggering 3,600 feet) and a unique course layout. You build confidence on the first line, then board a 4WD vehicle that takes you 1,500 feet above Waikapu to seven more lines that carry you over 11 ridges and nine valleys. The total distance covered is more than 2½ miles, and the views are astonishing. Participants must be at least 10 years old, weigh 75–230 pounds, and be able to hike over steep—sometimes slippery—terrain while carrying a 10-pound metal trolley. EMaui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapiiani Hwy., Wailuku P808/463–5786 wflyinhawaiianzipline.com AFrom $235.

Kapalua Ziplines

ZIP-LINING | FAMILY | Your experience begins with a 20-minute ride in a 4WD van through pineapple fields to the Mountain Outpost, a 3,000-square-foot observation deck boasting panoramic ocean and mountain views. If you’re on the seven-line zip, you’ll climb even higher above the Pacific Ocean in a Polaris Ranger to experience 2 miles of parallel zipping plus snacks. The shorter five-line zip and full-moon zip are great if you’re short on time. Participants must be at least 10 years old and weigh 60–250 pounds. E500 Office Rd., Kapalua P808/756–9147 wwww.kapaluaziplines.com AFrom $180.

Skyline Eco Adventures

ZIP-LINING | FAMILY | The first company to open a zip line course in the United States, Skyline has expanded to offer Haleakala Sunrise tours followed by breakfast at picturesque Kula Lodge. The Haleakala Sunrise & Zip Tour adds a zip-lining adventure that leads you across an Indiana Jones–style swinging bridge. You’ll reach speeds over 45 mph on Hawaii’s only pendulum line over the natural wonders of Maui. E18303 Haleakala Hwy., Kula P808/878–8400 wwww.skylinehawaii.com AFrom $140.

WELCOME TO THE BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII

TOP REASONS TO GO

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: The world’s most active volcano is an amazing sight.

Fun towns: Humming Kailua-Kona, cowboy country Waimea, rainbow-streaked Hilo.

Stargazing: Maunakea’s peak is the best place on Earth to stare out into space.

Beaches: The Big Island offers sand in many shades—black, white, and even green.

Wildlife: You can watch sea turtles on the beach and humpback whales in the waves.

Kona coffee: Farm tours, smooth sips, and a coffee cultural festival are all memorable.

Kailua-Kona. This quaint seaside town is packed with restaurants, shops, and a busy waterfront.

South Kona. The Kona Coast is the place to take farm tours and taste samples of world-famous Kona coffee.

The Kohala Coast and Waimea. The sparkling coast is home to all those long, white-sand beaches and the expensive resorts that go with them. Waimea is known as paniolo (cowboy) country.

The Hamakua Coast. Waterfalls, dramatic cliffs, ocean vistas, ancient hidden valleys, rain forests, and the stunning Waipio Valley are just a few of the treats here.

Hilo. Known as the City of Rainbows for all its rain, Hilo is what many consider the “real” Hawaii.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Puna, and Kau. The Halemaumau Crater is not to be missed, especially during eruptions. The remote Puna district is home to the quirky, hippie town of Pahoa as well as the island’s most recent lava flows. To the south, Kau has two of the most unusual beaches.

Nicknamed “The Big Island,” Hawaii Island is a microcosm of Hawaii the state. From long white-sand beaches and crystal-clear bays to rain forests, waterfalls, valleys, exotic flowers, and birds, all things quintessentially Hawaii are well represented here.

An assortment of happy surprises also distinguishes the Big Island from the rest of Hawaii—an active volcano (Kilauea) oozing red lava and creating new earth every day, the clearest place in the world to view stars in the night sky (Maunakea), and some seriously good coffee from the famous Kona district, as well as from neighboring Kau.

Home to eight of the world’s 13 sub-climate zones, this is the land of fire (thanks to active Kilauea volcano) and ice (compliments of not-so-active Maunakea, topped with snow and expensive telescopes). At just under a million years old, Hawaii is the youngest of the main Hawaiian Islands. Three of its five volcanoes are considered active: Mauna Loa, Hualalai, and Kilauea. The Southeast Rift Zone of Kilauea has been spewing lava regularly since January 3, 1983; another eruption began at Kilauea’s summit caldera in March 2008, the first since 1982. In May 2018, startling changes began at Kilauea Volcano on the island’s southeastern quadrant. The cessation of the Puu Oo vent, which had been continuously erupting since 1983, preceded a line of fissure eruptions in a remote neighborhood of Lower Puna, destroying dozens of homes. Meanwhile, in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, the lava lake at Halemaumau drained quickly, creating enormous ash plumes above the summit caldera and causing steam explosions and earthquakes as it collapsed. The dramatic events claimed several beloved beaches in Lower Puna, including the Kapoho tide pools and the Ahalanui warm ponds. Those same forces also created a brand-new, black-sand beach at Pohoiki, which continues to expand as more black sand builds up on the shore. Hawaii Volcano Observatory (HVO) scientists have since declared this phase of the eruption over, but in late 2020, a new summit eruption began in the caldera, lasted for a few months, paused, and then restarted in September 2021. The current eruption is fully contained in the caldera and can be safely viewed from inside the park from several vantage points.

Back in 1984, Mauna Loa’s eruptions crept almost to Hilo, and it could fire up again any minute—or not for years. Hualalai last erupted in 1801, and geologists say it will definitely do so again within 100 years. Maunakea is currently considered dormant but may very well erupt again. Kohala, which last erupted some 120,000 years ago, is inactive, but on volatile Hawaii Island, you can never be sure.

In the 19th- and mid-20th centuries, sugar was the main agricultural and economic staple of all the Islands, but especially the Big Island. The drive along the Hamakua Coast, from Hilo or Waimea, illustrates diverse agricultural developments on the island. Sugarcane stalks have been replaced by orchards of macadamia-nut trees, eucalyptus, and specialty crops from lettuce to strawberries. Macadamia-nut orchards on the Big Island supply 90% of the state’s yield, while coffee continues to be big business, dominating the mountains above Kealakekua Bay. Orchids keep farmers from Honokaa to Pahoa afloat, and small organic farms produce meat, fruits, vegetables, and even goat cheese for high-end resort restaurants.

Hawaii’s history is deeply rooted in its namesake island, which was home to the first Polynesian settlements and has the state’s best-preserved heiau (temples) and puuhonua (refuges). Kamehameha, the greatest king in Hawaiian history and the man credited with uniting the Islands, was born here, raised in Waipio Valley, and died peacefully in Kailua-Kona. The other man who most affected Hawaiian history, Captain James Cook, spent the bulk of his time in the Islands here, docked in Kealakekua Bay. (He landed first on Kauai, but had little contact with the residents there.) Thus it was here that Western influence was first felt, and from here that it spread to the rest of Hawaii.

Planning

Getting Here and Around

AIR

Daniel K. Inouye International Airport (HNL) on Oahu is the main gateway for most domestic and international flights into Hawaii. From Honolulu, interisland flights to the Big Island depart regularly from early morning through mid-evening. From Honolulu, the travel time is about 35 minutes. From Maui, it’s about 20 minutes. However, there are some nonstop flights from the west coast directly into the Big Island.

Those flying to the Big Island regularly land at one of two fields. Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport at Keahole, on the west side, serves Kailua-Kona, Keauhou, the Kohala Coast, North Kohala, Waimea, and points south. There are Visitor Information Program (VIP) booths by all baggage-claim areas to assist travelers. Additionally, the airport offers news and lei stands, Laniakea by Centerplate (a café), and a small gift and sundries shop. A modernization project joined the two terminals (previously separate) so that baggage and passenger screening can be streamlined and retail options enhanced.

Hilo International Airport is more appropriate for those planning visits based on the east side of the island. VIP booths are across from the Centerplate Coffee Shop near the departure lobby and in the arrival areas at each end of the terminal. In addition to the coffee shop, services include a Bank of Hawaii ATM, a gift shop, newsstands, and lei stands.

Waimea-Kohala Airport, called Kamuela Airport by residents, is used primarily for private flights between islands but offers daily flights via Mokulele Airlines.

BUS

Although public transportation isn’t very practical for the average vacationer, depending on where you’re staying, you can take advantage of the affordable Hawaii County Mass Transit Agency’s Hele-On Bus, which travels several routes throughout the island. Service is free until December 2025, when the program will be reevaluated. Keep in mind that a one-way journey between Hilo and Kona takes about four hours. But there’s no practical, regular service in and around downtown Hilo, Kailua-Kona, Waimea, North and South Kohala, Honokaa, and Pahoa. Nevertheless, some routes are served only once a day.

Visitors staying in Hilo can take advantage of the Transit Agency’s Shared Ride Taxi program, which provides door-to-door transportation in the area. A one-way fare is $2, and a book of 15 coupons can be purchased for $30. Visitors to Kona can also take advantage of free trolleys operated by local shopping centers.

CAR

Before you embark on your day trip, it’s a good idea to know how long it will take you to get to your destination. Some areas, like downtown Kailua-Kona and Waimea, can become congested at certain times of day. For those traveling to South Kona, a bypass road between Keauhou and Kealakekua alleviates congestion considerably during rush hour.

It’s essential to rent a car when visiting the Big Island. As the name suggests, it’s a very big island, and it takes a while to get from one destination to another. Rentals are expensive, beginning at about $62 per day before taxes and fees, and you should reserve a car as far in advance as practical. Some travelers say you should book your Big Island car rental even before you should book your hotel or flight.

Fortunately, when you circle the island by car, you are treated to miles and miles of wondrous vistas of every possible description. In addition to using standard compass directions such as east and west, Hawaii residents often refer to places as being either mauka (toward the mountains) or makai (toward the ocean).

It’s difficult to get lost along the main roads of the Big Island. Although their names may challenge the visitor’s tongue, most roads are well marked; in rural areas look for mile marker numbers. Free publications containing basic road maps are given out at car rental agencies, but if you are doing a lot of driving, invest about $4 in the standard Big Island map available at local retailers. GPS might be unreliable in remote areas.

Driving the roads on the Big Island can be dangerous, as there’s no margin for error to avoid a head-on collision. Distracted drivers are all too common. Most roads and main highways are two lanes with no shoulders; if there is a shoulder to access, it might be riddled with rocks, debris, and potholes. Speeding and illegal passing are frequent occurrences along winding, remote roads. In addition, most roads are not well lit at night. Fatalities can happen at a moment’s notice, whether on the main highway from the airport to the resorts, the Saddle Road, the upper road from Waimea to Hawi, or on the Hawaii Belt Road that wraps around the island. During Ironman week, cyclists pose additional potential hazards on all roads in West Hawaii. Use extreme caution when driving on the Big Island, and of course, do not drive after drinking.

For those who want to travel from the west side to the east side, or vice versa, the rerouted and repaved Saddle Road, known as the Daniel K. Inouye Highway, is a nice shortcut across the middle of the island. This is especially convenient if you are staying on the west side of the island and wish to visit the east side. Hazardous conditions such as fog and speeding are common.

Beaches

Don’t believe anyone who tells you that the Big Island lacks beaches. It’s just one of the myths about Hawaii’s largest island. It’s not so much that the Big Island has fewer beaches than the other islands, just that there’s more island, so getting to the beaches can be slightly less convenient. That said, there are plenty of those perfect white-sand stretches you think of when you hear “Hawaii,” plus the added bonus of black- and green-sand beaches, thanks to the relative young age of the island and its active volcanoes. New beaches appear and disappear at times, created and/or destroyed by volcanic activity or surf.

Hawaii’s largest coral reef systems lie off the Kohala Coast. Waves have battered them over millennia to create abundant white-sand beaches on the northwest side of the island. Black-, mixed-, and green-sand beaches lie in the southern regions and along the coast nearest the volcano. On the eastern side of the island, beaches tend to be of the rocky-coast–surging-surf variety, but there are still a few worth visiting, and this is where the Hawaii shoreline is at its most picturesque.

Hotels

Our recommendation is to stay on both sides of the island. Each offers a different range of accommodations, restaurants, and activities. Consider staying at one of the upscale resorts along the Kohala Coast or in a condo in Kailua-Kona for half of your trip. Then, shift gears and check into a romantic bed-and-breakfast on the Hamakua Coast, South Kona, Hilo, or near the volcano. If you’ve got children in tow, opt for a vacation home or a stay at one of the island’s many family-friendly hotels. On the west side, explore the island’s most pristine beaches or try some of the fine-dining restaurants; on the east side, hike through rain forests, witness majestic waterfalls, or go for a plate lunch.

Some locals like to say that the east is “more Hawaiian,” but we argue that King Kamehameha himself made Kailua-Kona his final home during his sunset years. Another reason to try a bit of both: your budget. You can justify splurging on a stay at a Kohala Coast resort for a few nights because you’ll spend the rest of your time paying far less at a cozy cottage in Volcano or a vacation rental on Alii Drive. And although food at the resorts is very expensive, you don’t have to eat every meal there. Condos and vacation homes can be ideal for a family trip or for a group of friends looking to save money and live like kamaainas (local residents) for a week or two. Many of the homes also have private pools and hot tubs, lanai, ocean views, and more—you can go as budget or as high-end as you like.

If you choose a B&B, inn, or out-of-the-way hotel, explain your expectations fully to the proprietor and ask plenty of questions before booking. Be clear about your travel and location needs. Some places require stays of two or three days.

FHotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com. Hotel prices are for two people in a standard double room in high season. Condo price categories reflect studio and one-bedroom rates. Prices do not include 13.42% tax.

CONDOS AND VACATION RENTALS

Renting a condo or vacation house gives you much more living space than the average hotel, plus the chance to meet more people (neighbors are usually friendly). You’ll also pay lower nightly rates and have the option of cooking or barbecuing rather than eating out. When booking, remember that most properties are individually owned, with rates and amenities that differ substantially depending on the place. Some properties are handled by rental agents or agencies, while many are handled through the owner.

The booking agencies may specialize in various lodging types or locations, so be sure to call and ask questions before booking. Big Island Villas lists condos attached to a number of resorts. Hawaiian Beach Rentals is an excellent source for high-end homes. Keauhou Property Management has condos along the Kona Coast, as do Kona Coast Vacations and Knutson and Associates. Kona Hawaii Vacation Rentals is known for affordable Kailua-Kona condos. Kolea Vacations lists high-end condos in Waikoloa, and Kona Vacation Rentals focuses on luxury Kohala Coast condos. Hawaii Vacation Rentals has some properties in Puako, near the Kohala Coast resorts. South Kohala Management handles everything from family-friendly condos to larger homes in the Kohala Coast resort areas.

CONTACTS Big Island Villas. EWaimea (Hawaii County) P808/936–3870, 808/443–6991 wwww.bigislandvillas.com. Hawaiian Beach Rentals. EHonolulu P844/261–0464 wwww.hawaiianbeachrentals.com. Hawaii Vacation Rentals. EWaimea (Hawaii County) P808/882–7000 wwww.vacationbigisland.com. Keauhou Property Management. EKeauhou P808/326–7053 wwww.konacondo.net. Knutson and Associates. EKailua-Kona P808/329–1010 wwww.konahawaiirentals.com. Kolea Vacations. EWaikoloa P808/987–4519 wwww.waikoloavacationrentals.com/kolea-rentals. Kona Coast Vacations. EKailua-Kona P808/329–2140 wwww.konacoastvacations.com. Kona Vacation Rentals. EKailua-Kona P808/334–1199 wwww.konarentals.com. South Kohala Management. EWaimea (Hawaii County) P808/883–8500 wwww.southkohala.com.

Restaurants

Between star chefs and myriad local farms, the Big Island restaurant scene has become a destination for foodies. Food writers praise chefs of the Big Island for their ability to turn the local bounty into inventive blends inspired by the island’s cultural heritage.

Resorts along the Kohala Coast have long invested in culinary programs offering memorable dining experiences that include inventive entrées, spot-on wine pairings, and customized chef’s table options. But great food on the Big Island doesn’t begin and end with the resorts. A handful of chefs have retired from the fast-paced hotel world and opened their own small bistros in upcountry Waimea or other places off the beaten track. Unique and wonderful restaurants have cropped up in Hawi, Kainaliu, and Waikoloa Village, and on the east side of the island in Hilo.

In addition to restaurants, festivals devoted to island products draw attendees to learn about everything from breadfruit and mango to avocado, chocolate, and coffee. Agritourism has turned into a fruitful venture for farmers as farm tours afford the opportunity to meet with and learn from local producers. Some tours conclude with a meal of items sourced from the same farms. Whether a tour includes Puna goat farms churning creamy, savory goat cheese, or farms in Waimea producing row after row of bright tomatoes, or high-tech aquaculture operations at the Natural Energy Lab of Hawaii Authority (NELHA), visitors can see exactly where their next meal comes from.

FRestaurant reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com. Restaurant prices are the average cost of a main course at dinner.

Shopping

Residents like to complain that there isn’t a lot of great shopping on the Big Island, but unless you’re searching for winter coats, you can find plenty to deplete your pocketbook.

Dozens of shops in Kailua-Kona offer a range of souvenirs from far-flung corners of the globe and plenty of local coffee and foodstuffs to take home to everyone you left behind. Housewares and artworks made from local materials (lauhala, coconut, koa, and milo wood) fill the shelves of small boutiques and galleries throughout the island. Upscale shops in the resorts along the Kohala Coast carry high-end clothing and accessories, as do a few boutiques scattered around the island. Galleries and gift shops, many showcasing the work of local artists, fill historical buildings in Waimea, Kainaliu, Holualoa, and Hawi. Hotel shops generally offer the most attractive and original resort wear, but, as with everything else at resorts, the prices run higher than elsewhere on the island.

Tours

Kona Historical Society Walking Tour

SELF-GUIDED TOURS | The society, based in Kealakekua, sells a 24-page Historic Kailua Village Map booklet with a map and more than 40 historical photos. You can take a self-guided walking tour to learn more about the village’s fascinating past. Order the booklet online before you travel so you have it in hand for your visit to Kailua-Kona. E81-6551 Mamalahoa Hwy., Kealakekua P808/323–3222 wkonahistorical.org A$4.

Visitor Information

CONTACTS Island of Hawaii Visitors Bureau. E68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., Puako jIn Shops at Mauna Lani P808/885–1655 wwww.gohawaii.com/islands/hawaii-big-island.

Kailua-Kona

More laid-back than the tonier Kohala Coast to the north, the Kona Coast and its largest town, Kailua-Kona, are great if you want to get away from resort crowds and resort pricing. A handful of small beaches, a fun surf town vibe, and some oceanfront hot spots for sunset and a mai tai are just a few good reasons to spend time here.

Except for the rare deluge, the sun shines year-round. Mornings offer cooler weather, smaller crowds, and more birds singing in the banyan trees; you’ll see tourists and locals out running on Alii Drive, the town’s main drag, by about 5 am every day. Afternoons sometimes bring clouds and light rain, but evenings often clear up so you can enjoy cool drinks, brilliant sunsets, gentle trade winds, and lazy hours spent gazing out over the ocean.

North of Kona International Airport, along Mamalahoa Highway, brightly colored bougainvillea stands out in relief against miles of jet-black lava fields stretching from the mountain to the sea. Sometimes visitors liken it to landing on the moon when they first see it. True, the dry barren landscape may not be what you’d expect to find on a tropical island, but it’s a good reminder of the island’s evolving volcanic nature.

Kailua-Kona

Kailua-Kona is about 7 miles south of the Kona airport.

The largest town on the Kona Coast, Kailua-Kona offers plenty to accommodate the needs of locals and visitors, but it also has some significant historic sites. Scattered among the shops, restaurants, and condo complexes of Alii Drive are Ahuena Heiau, a temple complex restored by King Kamehameha the Great and the spot where he spent his last days (he died here in 1819); the last royal palace in the United States (Hulihee Palace); and a battleground dotted with the graves of ancient Hawaiians who fought for their way of life and lost. It was also in Kailua-Kona that Kamehameha’s successor, King Liholiho, broke with the ancient kapu (roughly translated as “forbidden,” it was the name for the strict code of conduct that islanders were compelled to follow) system by publicly sitting and eating with women. The following year, on April 4, 1820, the first Christian missionaries came ashore here, changing life in the Islands forever.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Most first-time visitors to the island are startled by the seemingly endless black lava fields that make up the airport area and immediate surroundings. But just a 10-minute drive on Queen Kaahumanu Highway heading south takes you into the seaside town of Kailua-Kona and nearby retail centers. To get to town, take a right onto Palani Road and a left on Kuakini, and find one of the free lots along Kuakini Highway. You can park and walk right to the village and the seawall. You can also get to the restaurant row area by taking Kuakini Highway and turning right into the Coconut Grove Marketplace’s parking lot (fee applies). From there, you can walk to oceanfront establishments such as Humpy’s Big Island Alehouse and Island Lava Java. Alii Drive, the town’s main street, runs north and south along the water and is popular for walking, with plenty of shops and restaurants. Sunsets here are spectacular.

s Sights

HHolualoa

TOWN | Hugging the hillside above the Kona Coast, the tiny, artsy village of Holualoa might contain more artists per square foot than any other town in Hawaii. Painters, woodworkers, jewelers, gourd makers, silk screeners, photographers, and potters work in their studios in back and sell their wares up front. Look for frequent town-wide events such as art strolls and block parties (the annual Christmas light stroll is a favorite) and relax with a cup of coffee in one of the cafés or galleries. Formerly the exclusive domain of coffee plantations, Holualoa still boasts quite a few coffee farms offering free tours and inviting cups of Kona. The town is 3 miles up winding Hualalai Road from Kailua-Kona. EHolualoa wwww.holualoahawaii.com.

Hula Daddy Kona Coffee

FARM/RANCH | On a walking tour of this 20-acre working coffee farm (by advance reservation only), visitors can witness the workings of a small plantation, pick and pulp their own coffee beans, watch a roasting demonstration, and savor a tasting. Lee and Karen Patterson have perfected their coffee over many years, winning local cupping competitions. The gift shop carries whole beans and logo swag including bags, T-shirts, and mugs. Coffee brewing workshops and one-on-one tours with a master roaster are also offered. E74-4944 Mamalahoa Hwy., Holualoa P808/327–9744 wwww.huladaddy.com A$30 CClosed Sat. and Sun.

HHulihee Palace

CASTLE/PALACE | On the National Register of Historic Places, this lovely two-story oceanfront home, surrounded by jewel-green grass and elegant coconut palms and fronted by an elaborate wrought-iron gate, is one of only three royal palaces in America (the other two are in Honolulu). The royal residence was built by Governor John Adams Kuakini in 1838, a year after he completed Mokuaikaua Church. During the 1880s, it served as King David Kalakaua’s summer palace.

Built of lava rock and coral lime mortar, it features vintage koa furniture, weaving, European crystal chandeliers, giant four-poster beds, royal portraits, tapa cloth, feather work, and Hawaiian quilts. After the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in 1893, the property fell into disrepair. Set to be torn down for a hotel, it was rescued in 1920 by the Daughters of Hawaii, a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the culture and royal heritage of the Islands. The organization oversees and operates the site to this day; visitors see it on a guided tour. E75-5718 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–1877 wwww.daughtersofhawaii.org A$22 includes guided tour.

Kailua Pier

MARINA/PIER | Though most fishing and sail charters use Honokohau Harbor in Kailua-Kona, this pier dating from 1918 is still a hub of ocean activity where outrigger canoe teams practice and race, shuttles transport cruise ship passengers to and from town, and tour boats depart from the docks. Old photos depict cattle being wrangled from the pier to steamers bound for slaughterhouses. Along the seawall, children and old-timers cast their lines and hope for the best. For youngsters, a bamboo pole and hook are easy to come by, and plenty of locals are willing to give pointers. September brings the world’s largest long-distance outrigger canoe race, and in October, elite athletes line up on the beach next to the pier to swim 2.4 miles in the first leg of the internationally famous Ironman World Championship triathlon. EAlii Dr., Kailua-Kona jAcross from Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel.

HKamakahonu and Ahuena Heiau

HISTORIC SIGHT | In the early 1800s, King Kamehameha the Great built a large royal compound at Kamakahonu, the bay fronting what is now the Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel; today it is one of the most revered and historically significant sites in all of Hawaii. Kamakahonu, meaning “eye of the turtle,” was named for a prominent turtle-shaped rock there, covered in cement when the hotel and pier were built. The Ahuena Heiau, an impressive heiau (temple), was dedicated to Lono, the Hawaiian god of peace and prosperity. It was also used as a seat of government. The compound features a scaled-down replica of the temple and is a National Historic Landmark. You can’t go inside the heiau, but you can view it from the beach or directly next door at the hotel’s luau grounds. E75-5660 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona wwww.nps.gov/places/kamakahonu.htm.

HMokuaikaua Church

CHURCH | Site of the first Christian church in the Hawaiian Islands, this solid lava-rock structure, completed in 1837, is mortared with burned lime, coral, and kukui (candlenut) oil and topped by an impressive 112-foot steeple. The ceiling and interior were crafted of timbers harvested from a forest on Hualalai and are held together with wooden pegs, not nails. Inside, behind a panel of gleaming koa wood, rests a model of the brig Thaddeus as well as a koa-wood table crafted by Henry Boshard, pastor for 43 years. The sanctuary is still undergoing renovations, but if you attend Sunday services, they are glad to give you a tour. E75-5713 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–0655 wwww.mokuaikaua.org AFree.

; Beaches

Kahaluu Beach Park

BEACH | Shallow and easily accessible, this salt-and-pepper beach is one of the Big Island’s most popular swimming and snorkeling sites, thanks to the fringing reef that helps keep the waters calm, visibility high, and reef life—especially honu (green sea turtles) and colorful fish—plentiful. Kahaluu was a favorite of the Hawaiian royal family, too. Because it is so protected, it’s great for first-time snorkelers. Avoid areas marked off for coral regrowth. Outside the reef, very strong rip currents can run, so caution is advised. Listen to lifeguard instructions. Experienced surfers find good waves beyond the reef, and scuba divers like the shore dives—shallow ones inside the breakwater, deeper ones outside. Snorkel equipment and boards are available for rent nearby, and surf schools operate here. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (small fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; surfing; swimming. E78-6720 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona j5½ miles south of Kailua-Kona, across from Beach Villas P808/961–8311 AFree.

HKamakahonu Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | This beach is where King Kamehameha spent his final days—the replica of the Ahuena Heiau sits on a platform across from the sand. Adjacent to Kailua Pier, the scenic crescent of white sand is one of the few beaches in downtown Kailua-Kona. The water here is almost always calm and the beach clean, making this a perfect spot for kids. For adults, it’s a great place for swimming, stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), watching outrigger teams practice, or enjoying a lazy beach day, but it can get crowded on weekends. Snorkeling can be good north of the beach, and snorkeling, SUP, and kayaking equipment can be rented nearby. There’s lots of grass and shade. Amenities: food and drink; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. E75-5660 Palani Rd., at Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona AFree.

r Restaurants

Big Island Grill

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | This beloved local-style restaurant serves huge portions of pork chops, diet-busting loco moco (meat, rice, and eggs smothered in gravy), fresh poke, and an assortment of fish specialties at very reasonable prices. Get there early, as they are open only until 2 pm. Known for: authentic local vibe; succulent Kalbi short ribs; large saimin portions. DAverage main: $15 E75-5702 Kuakini Hwy., Kailua-Kona P808/326–1153 CClosed Sun. and Mon. No dinner.

HBig Kahuna Beach Grill

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | From its upstairs, open-air dining room decorated with kitschy surfer chic, this restaurant invites customers to enjoy views of the pier and a bustling corner of Alii Drive. Fortunately, an excellent, extensive menu makes it well worth a stop; fresh fish plates including fish tacos are a sure bet. Known for: full bar menu of island-style cocktails; five types of eggs Benedict; clam chowder. DAverage main: $15 E75-5663 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona P808/731–5055 wbigkahunabeachgrill.com.

Don’s Mai Tai Bar & Restaurant at Royal Kona Resort

$$ | HAWAIIAN | The largest open-air tiki bar in Kona has the absolute best view of Kailua Bay in town. This is the perfect spot to relax with a pupu (appetizer) such as the coconut-crusted shrimp or “Hapa” poke bowl, or to dig into something more substantial like the kiawe wood–smoked prime rib. Known for: 10 types of mai tais; worthy desserts and dessert coffees; Hawaiian performers weekly. DAverage main: $25 ERoyal Kona Resort, 75-5852 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–3111 wwww.royalkona.com.

The Fish Hopper

$$ | SEAFOOD | FAMILY | In the heart of Historic Kailua Village, the open-air Hawaii location of the popular Monterey, California restaurant offers an expansive menu for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in a vintage building with a bayfront view. Inventive fresh-fish specials as well as simple fish-and-chips are among the local favorites. Known for: award-winning clam chowder; good lunch menu; signature Volcano flaming cocktail. DAverage main: $24 E75-5683 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/326–2002 wwww.fishhopperkona.com.

HFoster’s Kitchen

$$ | AMERICAN | Ocean breezes flow through this open-air restaurant on Alii Drive, known for a quality menu infused with Cajun and island influences. Almost all dishes are made to order and feature non-GMO, hormone-free, or USDA-certified organic ingredients. Known for: scratch-made food and cocktails; live entertainment nightly; great happy hour prices. DAverage main: $23 E75-5805 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/326–1600 wwww.fosterskitchen.com.

HHarbor House

$ | AMERICAN | On the docks at Kona’s sleepy harbor, this open-air restaurant is an authentic place to grab a beer and a bite after a long day of fishing, beach-going, or diving. The venue is nothing fancy, but it’s one of the best spots in Kona for fresh-fish sandwiches, a variety of fried fish-and-chip combos, and even burgers. Known for: chilled schooners of Kona Brewing Co. lager; fresh fish right off the incoming boats; fun waterfront dining on the way to or from the airport. DAverage main: $16 EHonokohau Harbor, 74-425 Kealakehe Pkwy., Suite 4, Kailua-Kona P808/326–4166 wharborhouserestaurantkona.com.

HHayashi’s You Make the Roll

$ | JAPANESE | Tiny and locally owned, this sushi shack in the heart of town has gained an incredible following and specializes in “reverse” (rice on the outside, nori on the inside) rolls, filled with three or four ingredients of your choice. It’s super popular and gets crazy crowded, so expect a long wait—but it’s worth it. Known for: affordable take-out sushi rolls; small, low-key location; local favorite. DAverage main: $10 E75-5725 Alii Dr., Suite D101, Kailua-Kona P808/326–1322 CClosed Sun. No dinner.

Huggo’s

$$$ | HAWAIIAN | A Kona icon since 1969, family-owned Huggo’s is one of the few restaurants in town with prices and atmosphere comparable to the splurge restaurants at the Kohala Coast resorts. Dinner offerings sometimes fall short, considering the prices, but the pupus (appetizers) and small plates are usually a good bet. Known for: fine dining at the water’s edge; next-door bar with toes-in-the sand dining; nightlife hot spot. DAverage main: $40 E75-5828 Kahakai Rd., off Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–1493 wwww.huggos.com.

Humpy’s Big Island Alehouse

$ | AMERICAN | This place is usually packed for a reason: the more than 36 craft brews on tap, plus an upstairs and downstairs bar with plenty of outdoor seating. Take in the oceanfront view with amazing sunsets while chowing down on stone-baked pizza, fresh salads, fish-and-chips, fish tacos, burgers, stone-baked subs, and lots of appetizers. Known for: largest selection of craft beer on the island; great steamed clams; good nightlife (for Kona). DAverage main: $18 ECoconut Grove Marketplace, 75-5815 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/324–2337 whumpyskona.com.

Island Lava Java

$$ | AMERICAN | With cocktail bars both upstairs and downstairs, oceanfront Island Lava Java serves eggs Benedict for breakfast; fresh fish tacos for lunch; and pasta, Big Island beef, and seafood for dinner, plus towering, fresh bistro salads. There are also pizzas, sandwiches, and plenty of choices for both vegetarians and meat eaters. Known for: large portions using mostly local organic ingredients; bar with extensive cocktail menu; 100% Kona coffee. DAverage main: $20 ECoconut Grove Marketplace, 75-5801 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/327–2161 wwww.islandlavajava.com.

Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill

$$$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | The brightly decorated, open-air restaurant located in a nondescript office center, is a favorite lunch and dinner destination for visitors and residents, thanks to generous portions and a nice variety of chef’s specials, steaks, and seafood dishes. Try the Mochiko-crusted fresh catch with Molokai sweet potatoes, vegetables, ginger lime beurre blanc along with Namasu relish. Known for: strong local following; great-value lunch menu; $5 happy hour. DAverage main: $36 EPottery Terrace, 75-5995 Kuakini Hwy., Kailua-Kona P808/327–0209 wwww.jackiereys.com.

Kenichi Pacific

$$$ | JAPANESE | With black lacquer tables and lipstick-red banquettes, Kenichi offers a more sophisticated dining atmosphere than normally found in Kona shopping centers. This is the place residents go when they feel like splurging on top-notch sushi, sashimi, steak, and Asian-fusion cuisine. Known for: upscale dining at far less than resort prices; happy hour discounts on sushi; cheaper lounge menu of small plates. DAverage main: $36 EKeauhou Shopping Center, 78-6831 Alii Dr., Suite D-125, Kailua-Kona P808/322–6400 wwww.kenichipacific.com CClosed Mon. No lunch.

HKona Brewing Co.

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | An ultrapopular destination with an outdoor patio, Kona Brewing offers an excellent, varied menu, including famous brews; pulled-pork quesadillas; gourmet pizzas; and a killer spinach salad with Gorgonzola cheese, strawberries, and macadamia nuts. The sampler tray, a good value, offers four of the 10 available microbrews. Known for: Longboard Lager and other famous brews made on-site; live music; growlers of to-go beer from taps. DAverage main: $16 E74-5612 Pawai Pl., Kailua-Kona jOff Kaiwi St. at end of Pawai Pl. P808/329–2739 wwww.konabrewingco.com.

HKona Inn Restaurant

$$ | AMERICAN | This open-air restaurant in a vintage 1920s-era building at the historical Kona Inn Shopping Village offers a beautiful oceanfront setting on Kailua Bay. The view and the bar are Kona signature icons, and it’s a great place when you first land in Kona to have a mai tai along with some appetizers or to enjoy a calamari sandwich, clam chowder, or salad at lunch. Known for: sunset-watching spot; nice bar and lounge at all times; inconsistent food at dinner. DAverage main: $25 EKona Inn Shopping Village, 75-5744 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–4455 wkonainnrestaurant.com.

Kona Taeng on Thai

$ | THAI | A hidden gem, the open-air eatery is on the second floor of an oceanfront shopping center. Patrons can watch the scene below on bustling Alii Drive while enjoying freshly prepared Thai specialties, including plenty of vegetarian options and delicious Thai iced tea. Known for: uncrowded, spacious layout; lunch specials; large portions. DAverage main: $13 EKona Inn Shopping Center, 75-5744 Alii Dr., #208, 2nd fl., Kailua-Kona P808/329–1994.

Magics Beach Grill

$$$ | HAWAIIAN | In a vintage building dating from 1965, Magics offers an exhilarating oceanfront location overlooking the famous Disappearing Sands Beach, also known as Magic Sands. From fried ulu (breadfruit) wedges in umami truffle oil aioli to firecracker fish tacos and mushroom pasta, the eclectic menu features intriguing choices using locally sourced ingredients with contemporary island flair. Known for: sunset beach views; ube margarita; great happy hour 2–4 pm. DAverage main: $33 E77-6452 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/662–4427 wmagicsbeachgrill.com.

HQuinn’s Almost by the Sea

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | With the bar in the front and the dining patio in the back, Quinn’s may seem like a bit of a dive at first glance, but this venerable Kona classic serves the best darn cheeseburger and fries in town. Make your already-large burger a “monster” for an additional $4.50. Known for: strong cocktails; comfort food like meatballs; old Kona vibe. DAverage main: $15 E75-5655 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona P808/329–3822 wwww.quinnsalmostbythesea.com CClosed Wed.

Sunset Kai Lanai

$$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | Perched above a shopping center with sweeping panoramic views, this open-air restaurant has lots to offer besides spectacular views from every table in the house. The slow-roasted rack of ribs is the star of the show, and the locally sourced fish-and-chips is a close second. Known for: limited parking for such a popular place; excellent happy hour pricing; the best views in town. DAverage main: $22 EKeauhou Shopping Center, 78-6831 Alii Dr., Suite 1000, Kailua-Kona P808/333–3434 CClosed Mon.

Thai Rin

$ | THAI | FAMILY | Everything is cooked to order at this low-key oceanfront restaurant with an excellent selection of Thai food at decent prices. The menu brims with choices, including five curries, a green-papaya salad, and deep-fried fish. Known for: great views with both indoor and outdoor seating; appetizer platters for sharing; convenient to village shops. DAverage main: $18 E75-5799 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–2929 wwww.thairin.com CTakeout only on Tues.

TK Noodle House

$ | ASIAN FUSION | FAMILY | Former resort chef T.K. Keosavang serves inventive Asian fusion cuisine with the emphasis on noodles. Generous portions are beautifully plated, like the crispy pork belly sauté with Chinese greens and garlic sauce, and noodle soups and abundant salads don’t disappoint. Known for: ample parking; seafood yentafo soup; lunch specials. DAverage main: $18 E75 Hanama Pl., Kailua-Kona jNear Big Island Grill P808/327–0070 wwww.cheftk.com.

HUmekes Fish Market Bar & Grill

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | Locals flock to this downtown Kailua-Kona restaurant for good reason: the poke is the most onolicious (super delicious) in town, and the many other seafood, pork, and beef offerings are just as stellar. Poke does not get more authentic than this, and you can get it by the bowl or the pound. Known for: daily specials using the freshest fish; locally sourced ingredients; authentic Kona experience. DAverage main: $18 E74-5599 Pawai Pl., Kailua-Kona P808/238–0571 wumekesrestaurants.com.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Kanaka Kava

$ | HAWAIIAN | This is a popular local hangout, and not just because the kava drink makes you mellow. The Hawaiian proprietors, who have a certified organic farm in Hamakua, also serve traditional Hawaiian food, including fresh poke, bowls of healthy organic greens, opihi (limpets), and traditional Hawaiian laulau (pork or chicken wrapped in taro leaves and steamed). Known for: kava served in coconut cups; pulled kalua pork; squid luau (the leaf from a taro plant). DAverage main: $12 ECoconut Grove Marketplace, 75-5803 Alii Dr., Space B6, Kailua-Kona P808/327–1660 wwww.kanakakava.bar/bar-1.

HPoi Dog Deli

$ | AMERICAN | With vintage memorabilia and a bluesy soundtrack as a background, this cool deli in a tiny strip mall has a lot more to offer than the average sandwich shop. Yes, there are gourmet sandwiches, salads, and wraps, but Poi Dog’s wide-ranging menu extends to an impressive list of wines, craft beers, ales, and pilsners from all over the world. Known for: Ranch House Reuben; house-made soups; salads featuring house-made Cajun croutons and house dressings. DAverage main: $10 E75-1022 Henry St., Kailua-Kona jAcross from Walmart P808/329–2917 wpoidogdeli.com.

Ultimate Burger

$ | BURGER | FAMILY | Located in the Crossroads shopping complex in Kailua-Kona, this excellent burger joint may look like a chain, but it’s an independent, locally owned and operated eatery that serves 100% organic, grass-fed Big Island beef. Be sure to order a side of seasoned Big Daddy fries served with homemade aioli dipping sauce. Known for: organic, hormone-free ingredients; supporting local farmers and ranchers; locally made buns. DAverage main: $8 EKona Commons Shopping Center, 74-5450 Makala Blvd., Kailua-Kona P808/329–2326 wwww.ultimateburger.net.

h Hotels

Aston Kona by the Sea

$$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | Complete modern kitchens, tiled lanai, and washer-dryer units are found in every suite of this comfortable oceanfront condo complex with a welcoming entry lobby and a reception area that feels like a hotel. Pros: lobby and activities desk; near delis and convenience stores; ocean-fed saltwater pool next to the property. Cons: no beach access (2 miles away); not walking distance to Kailua Village; individually owned units, so prices may vary. DRooms from: $678 E75-6106 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/327–2300, 877/997–6667 wwww.astonhotels.com a86 units XNo Meals.

Courtyard by Marriott King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel

$$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Right on the beach in the heart of Historic Kailua Village, this landmark hotel built in 1975 offers good vibrations and authentic local hospitality—all for less than the price of a Kohala Coast resort. Pros: easy access to shops and restaurants; deep historical ambience includes Hawaiian artifacts; on-site restaurant and poolside bar. Cons: most rooms have partial ocean views; some rooms face the parking lot; often sold out. DRooms from: $435 E75-5660 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona P808/329–2911 wmarriott.com a452 rooms XNo Meals.

Kona Condo Comforts h

Visitors choosing to stay in a condo rather than a resort or hotel will find a range of useful accommodations in the area.

Safeway Kona at the brand-new Niumalu Marketplace (E75-971 Henry St., Kailua-Kona P808/339–9155) offers an excellent inventory of groceries and produce, although prices can be steep. Delivery and curbside pickup are available.

Longs Drugs at Lanihau Center (E75-5595 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona P808/329–1632) is the place to stock up on personal care items, rubber slippers, a snorkel, and sunscreen. They also have a good selection of liquor at competitive prices.

For pizza, Kona Crust in the Kona Coast Shopping Center (E74-5586 Palani Rd., Kailua Kona P808/731–7553) is the best bet; order online and pick up. Otherwise, for delivery, try Domino’s (P808/329–9500).

HHolualoa Inn

$$$$ | B&B/INN | Six spacious rooms and suites—plus two vintage one-bedroom cottages perfect for honeymooners—are available at this 30-acre coffee-country estate, a few miles above Kailua Bay in the heart of the artists’ village of Holualoa. Pros: walking distance from art galleries and cafés; everything necessary for hosting a wedding or event; luxurious, Zen-like vibe. Cons: not kid-friendly; unheated swimming pool; books up far in advance. DRooms from: $635 E76-5932 Mamalahoa Hwy., Holualoa P808/324–1121, 800/392–1812 wwww.holualoainn.com a8 units XFree Breakfast.

Holua Resort at Mauna Loa Village

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Tucked away by Keauhou Bay amid a plethora of coconut trees, this well-maintained enclave of blue-roofed villas offers lots of amenities, including a 27-court tennis and pickleball center, swimming pools, hot tubs, a fitness center, waterfalls, and covered parking. Pros: manicured gardens; upscale feeling; walking distance to major resort restaurants. Cons: no beach; partial ocean views; no on-site restaurant. DRooms from: $499 E78-7190 Kaleiopapa St., Kailua-Kona P808/324–1550 wwww.shellhospitality.com a73 units XNo Meals.

Kanaloa at Kona by Outrigger

$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | The 16-acre grounds provide a peaceful and verdant background for this low-rise condominium complex bordering the Keauhou-Kona Country Club and within a five-minute drive of the nearest beaches, Kahaluu and Laaloa (Magic Sands). Pros: walking distance from Keauhou Bay; three pools with hot tubs; shopping center and restaurants nearby. Cons: no elevators; no front desk; remote customer support; air-conditioning available only by paying a daily fee. DRooms from: $329 E78-261 Manukai St., Kailua-Kona P808/322–7222, 800/688–7444 wwww.outrigger.com a63 units XNo Meals.

Kona Coast Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Just below Keauhou Shopping Center, this timeshare resort offers furnished condos on 21 acres with pleasant ocean views and a host of on-site amenities, including two swimming pools, dry sauna, beach volleyball, a cocktail bar, barbecue grills, a hot tub, tennis courts, a fitness center, hula classes, equipment rentals, and children’s activities. Pros: all rooms updated in 2018; good amenities for kids; away from the bustle of downtown Kailua-Kona. Cons: some units have parking lot views; not on the beach; time-share salespeople. DRooms from: $499 E78-6842 Alii Dr., Keauhou P808/324–1721 wextraholidays.com a268 units XNo Meals.

HKona Tiki Hotel

$$$ | HOTEL | This small, oceanfront, walk-up hotel about a mile south of downtown Kailua Village, with modest, pleasantly decorated rooms on the ocean, is probably the best deal in town. Pros: friendly staff; oceanfront lanai on every room; free parking. Cons: no A/C; no TV in rooms; parking can be a challenge. DRooms from: $299 E75-5968 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–1425 wwww.konatikihotel.com a16 rooms XNo Meals.

Outrigger Kona Resort and Spa at Keauhou Bay

$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | What the hotel’s concrete architecture lacks in intimacy, it makes up for with its beautifully manicured grounds, historical sense of place, stylish interiors, and stunning location on Keauhou Bay. Many rooms have great views of the bay and feel like they’re right on the water, and each is decorated in a modern Polynesian style. Pros: cool pool that’s great for kids; manta rays on view nightly; resort style at lower price. Cons: no beach; long walk from parking area; Wi-Fi can be spotty. DRooms from: $324 E78-128 Ehukai St., Keauhou P808/930–4900 woutrigger.com a484 rooms XNo Meals.

Royal Kona Resort

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | This iconic Kona hotel is a great option: the location is central; the bar, lounge, pool, and restaurant are right on the water; and the rooms feature comfortable, contemporary Hawaiian decor with Polynesian accents. Pros: convenient location by shops and restaurants; waterfront pool; restaurant and bar with great views. Cons: can be crowded; $25 per day parking fee; grounds have dated feel. DRooms from: $292 E75-5852 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–3111, 800/774–5662 wwww.royalkona.com a430 rooms XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

BARS

HOla Brew Co

BREWPUBS | There’s an enticing and creative array of beers, ales, ciders, and hard seltzers at this employee-owned brewing company. Ola Brew is committed to community investment and support of local farmers and merchants. Take a barstool at a picture window facing the main brewing operation and enjoy a fresh on-tap draft and an appetizer. There’s plenty of outdoor seating as well. The taproom menu features reasonably priced tacos, salads, flatbreads, and poke bowls. Ask about their brewery tours. Popular local bands entertain on a regular basis. E74-5598 Luhia St., Kailua-Kona P808/339–3599 wwww.olabrewco.com.

CLUBS

HHuggo’s on the Rocks

COCKTAIL BARS | Nothing says “Kona casual” like this toes-in-the-sand establishment right on the water, next door to their famous flagship restaurant. Jazz, island, and classic-rock bands perform here nightly, and it’s tradition to dance in the sand at least once before leaving the island. Try a signature tropical cocktail such as the Big Bamboocha Mai Tai crafted with Kuleana Hui Hui, Kuleana Nanea, and Lemon Hart 151 rums, plus appetizers such as poke bowls, kalua (earth oven–baked) pork nachos, or Kona fish tacos. Happy hour is one of the best in town as is the location. All beers—draft or bottles—are $5. Fish tacos and sliders are only $6. E75-5824 Kahakai Rd., at Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–1493 whuggosontherocks.com.

Laverne’s Sports Bar

DANCE CLUB | They call themselves Kona’s “dive” bar, but we’re not sure we agree. It’s fun and kitschy, and locals know this is the best place to dance and drink in Kailua-Kona. With 32 TVs, there’s not a sports event you will miss, either. Sometimes Hawaiian and island music headliners perform here, such as local recording artists Anuhea or Rebel Souljahz. Local musicians with followings also draw their “groupies.” After 10, DJs spin tunes on the ocean-breeze-cooled dance floor, located upstairs with killer views of the water. The food is decent and includes full meals, such as cheeseburgers or fish-and-chips. They also serve breakfast. ECoconut Grove Marketplace, 75-5819 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/331–2633 wlaverneskona.com.

p Performing Arts

FESTIVALS

HKing Kamehameha Day Celebration Parade

FESTIVALS | Each summer, on the Saturday nearest to King Kamehameha Day (June 11), at least 100 regal riders on horseback parade through Historic Kailua Village, showing off the colorful flora and aloha spirit of Hawaii. This spectacular free event is one of the highlights of summer. The traditional royal pau riders (women dressed in long skirts) include a queen and princesses representing the major Hawaiian Islands. A cultural festival with live music and a houlaulea (local fundraiser) always follow on the historic grounds of Hulihee Palace, Hawaii Island’s only royal palace. EHistoric Kailua Village, Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona wwww.konaparade.org AFree.

HKona Brewers Festival

FESTIVALS | The lively festival held every March showcases island-based brewers and chefs at the popular BREW block in Kona’s “Old” Industrial Area. A “trash” fashion show, a 10K fun run, live music, and community fundraisers are all part of the fun. The festival has raised more than $1.5 million for local causes. Save the date and get tickets online starting in January, as this event always sells out. EBREW block, Pawai Pl., Kailua-Kona P808/331–3033 wwww.konabrewersfestival.com AFrom $50.

HKona Coffee Cultural Festival

FESTIVALS | Held over 10 days in early November, the longest-running food festival in Hawaii celebrates world-renowned Kona coffee. The highly anticipated Kona-side festival includes coffee contests, serious cupping (tasting) competitions, a lecture series, label contests, farm tours, and a colorful community parade featuring the newly crowned Miss Kona Coffee. Throughout locations in town and at many Kona coffee plantations, you can meet growers and sample estate coffees. EKailua-Kona P808/323–2006 wwww.konacoffeefest.com.

LUAU

Feast & Fire Luau at the Outrigger Kona Resort and Spa

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | FAMILY | On the graceful grounds of the Outrigger Kona Resort and Spa, this popular luau (Mondays and Thursdays) takes you on a journey of song and dance, celebrating the culture and history of the Islands. The excellent buffet is a feast of local favorites, including kalua (earth oven–baked) pig, poi, ahi poke, chicken long rice, fish, and mango chutney. Generous mai tai refills are a plus, and a highlight is the dramatic fire-knife dance finale. ESheraton Kona Resort and Spa at Keauhou Bay, 78-128 Ehukai St., Kailua-Kona P808/930–4900 woutrigger.com A$200.

HIsland Breeze Luau

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | With traditional dancing showcasing the interconnected Polynesian roots of Hawaii, Samoa, Tahiti, and New Zealand, the “We Are Ohana” luau is not a hokey, tourist-trap event; these performers take their art seriously, and it shows. The historic oceanfront location—on the Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel’s luau grounds and directly next to the king’s former royal compound and Ahuena Heiau—adds to the authenticity of the event, which takes place daily except Monday and Saturday. The bounty of food includes kalua (earth oven–baked) pig. It’s one of the best-priced luaus in town. The hotel validates parking. E75-5660 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona P866/482–9775 wwww.islandbreezeluau.com A$169.

b Shopping

ARTS AND CRAFTS

HHula Lamps of Hawaii

CRAFTS | Located near Costco in the Kaloko Light Industrial complex, this one-of-a-kind shop features the bronze creations of artist Charles Moore. Inspired by the vintage hula-girl lamps of the 1930s, Moore creates art pieces (both dancing and nondancing) sought by visitors and residents alike. Mix and match with an array of hand-painted lampshades. Check out the specials online and in the shop. E73-5613 Olowalu St., Suite 2, Kailua-Kona jNear Costco on upper road P808/326–9583 wwww.hulalamps.com.

HKimura Lauhala Shop

CRAFTS | Originally a general store built in 1914, this shop features handmade products crafted by local lauhala weavers, who use the leaves of the hala tree. Among the offerings are hats, baskets, containers, and mats, many of which are woven by the proprietors. Owner Alfreida Kimura-Fujita was born in the house behind the shop, and her daughter Renee is also an accomplished weaver. E77-996 Hualalai Rd., Holualoa P808/324–0053.

CLOTHING AND SHOES

Mermaids Swimwear

CLOTHING | Local residents know that Mermaids is one of the best places in Kona to buy fashion-forward ladies’ swimwear, cover-ups, sandals, hats, sunglasses, and other stylish beach accessories. Although on the pricey side, the swimwear is mostly name brand and high quality. There’s a beautiful selection of pareau (sarongs), which are island-style wraps in tropical prints and colors. The owner’s husband, Tony, is a famous surfboard maker whose World Core surf shop is just around the corner. EKona Inn Shopping Village, 75-5744 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–6677.

FOOD AND WINE

HKona Wine Market

WINE/SPIRITS | Near Costco, this longtime local wine store carries both local and imported varietals (with more than 600 high-end wines), specialty liquors, Champagnes, 150 craft beers, gourmet foods, and cigars. There are even some accessories for home brewers. As a bonus, the market delivers wine and gift baskets to hotels and homes, and it offers complimentary tastings Fridays from 3 to 6. E73-5613 Olowalu St., Kailua-Kona P808/329–9400 wwww.konawinemarket.com.

HMrs. Barry’s Kona Cookies

FOOD | Since 1980, Mrs. Barry and her family have been making and serving yummy homemade cookies, including macadamia nut, white chocolate–macadamia nut, oatmeal raisin, and coffee crunch. Packaged in beautiful gift boxes or bags, the cookies make excellent gifts. She even makes cookie treats for the family dog. Stop by on your way to Costco or the airport and pick up a bag or two or three—or just ask Mrs. Barry to ship your stash instead. E73-5563 Maiau St., Kailua-Kona jBy Costco in the Kaloko Light Industrial Area P808/329–6055 wwww.konacookies.com.

MARKETS

Alii Gardens Marketplace

MARKET | FAMILY | The outdoor stalls at this mellow, parklike market offer tropical flowers, produce, soaps, kettle corn, coffee, coconut postcards, cookies, jewelry, koa wood, clothing, antiques and collectibles, handmade lei, silk flowers, and kitschy crafts. The made-on-site barbecue is a real hit. A food kiosk also serves shave ice, fish tacos, coconut water, fresh-fruit smoothies, and hamburgers. Free parking and Wi-Fi are available. E75-6129 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona j1½ miles south of Kona Inn Shopping Village P808/937–8844 wfacebook.com/aliigardensmarketplace.

Keauhou Farmers Market

MARKET | FAMILY | Held in the parking lot at Keauhou Shopping Center, this cheerful market is the place to go on Saturday morning for live music, local produce (much of it organic), goat cheese, honey, island-raised meat, flowers, macadamia nuts, fresh-baked pastries, Kona coffee, and plenty of local color. EKeauhou Shopping Center, 78-6831 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona wwww.keauhoufarmersmarket.com.

Kona Farmers’ Market

MARKET | FAMILY | An awesome flower vendor creates custom arrangements while you wait at this touristy farmers’ market near the ocean. There are more than 40 vendors with souvenirs and crafts for sale, as well as some of the best prices on fresh produce, lei, and orchids in Kona. The market is held in a parking lot at the corner of Hualalai Road and Alii Drive from 7 to 4. E75-7544 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona.

MUSIC

Just Ukes

MUSIC | As the name suggests, this place is all about ukuleles—from music books to T-shirts and accessories like cases and bags. The independently owned shop carries a variety of ukuleles ranging from low-priced starter instruments to high-end models made of koa and mango. EAli’i Gardens Marketplace, 75-6129 Ali’i Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/769–5101 wjustukes.com.

Hawaii Cherries r

Don’t scratch your head too much when you see signs advertising “cherries” as you drive around South Kona. They aren’t about the cherries used in cherry pie; these signs refer to coffee cherries. Coffee beans straight off the tree are encased in fleshy, sweet red husks that make them look like bright little cherries. These husks are removed in the pulping process, and then the beans are sun-dried. Farmers who don’t process their own coffee can sell 100-pound bags of just-picked cherries to the roasters.

SHOPPING CENTERS

Coconut Grove Marketplace

SHOPPING CENTER | This meandering oceanfront marketplace includes gift shops, cafés, restaurants (including Outback Steakhouse, Humpy’s Big Island Alehouse, Thai Rin, Lava Java, Foster’s Kitchen, and Gecko Girlz), sports bars, sushi, boutiques, crystal stores, Jack’s Diving Locker, a running shop, and several art galleries. At night, locals gather to watch outdoor sand volleyball games held in the courtyard or grab a beer and enjoy live music. Directly adjacent is Alii Sunset Plaza, which is served by the same large paid parking lot. (Parking may be validated by some retailers.) E75-5795–75-5825 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona wwww.thecoconutgrovemarketplace.com.

Kaloko Light Industrial Park

SHOPPING CENTER | Located south of the airport, this large retail complex includes Costco, the best place to stock up on food if you’re staying at a vacation rental. Kona Wine Market features curated wines and beers, while Mrs. Barry’s Kona Cookies sells beautifully packaged, delicious “souvenirs.” EOff Hwy. 19 and Hina Lani St., Kailua-Kona jNear Kona airport.

Keauhou Shopping Center

SHOPPING CENTER | About 5 miles south of Kailua Village, this large neighborhood shopping center includes KTA Superstore, Longs Drugs, Kona Stories bookstore, and a multiplex movie theater. Kenichi Pacific, an upscale sushi restaurant, and Peaberry & Galette, a café that serves excellent crepes, are favorite eateries, joined by Bianelli’s Pizza. You can also grab a quick bite at Los Habaneros, Subway, or L&L Hawaiian Barbecue. E78-6831 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/322–3000 wwww.keauhoushoppingcenter.com.

Kona Commons

SHOPPING CENTER | This downtown center features a Ross Dress for Less (for suitcases, shoes, swimsuits, and aloha wear) and Hawaiian Island Creations (for a great selection of surf gear, clothing, and accessories). There’s also an Old Navy, Island Naturals, Vitamin Shoppe, Office Max, and a number of other smaller clothing retailers. Food and drink options include fast-food standbys like Dairy Queen, Subway, and Panda Express, as well as Ultimate Burger, for local beef and delicious house-made fries, and Genki Sushi, where the goods are delivered via conveyor belt. lAcross the street, Target has fresh-flower lei for a fraction of the cost of local florists. E75-5450 Makala Blvd., Kailua-Kona wwww.konacommons.com.

Kona Inn Shopping Village

SHOPPING CENTER | Originally a hotel, the Kona Inn was built in 1928 to accommodate a new wave of wealthy travelers arriving by steamer and was booked months in advance. As hotels and resorts opened along the Kona and Kohala Coasts, it was transformed into a low-rise, outdoor shopping village with shops and island-style eateries. Although quite a few longtime shops did not survive the pandemic, new ones are expected to take their place. Broad lawns with coconut trees on the ocean side provide a lovely setting for an afternoon picnic. The iconic Kona Inn is best for drinks and appetizers. E75-5744 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona.

North Kona

The North Kona district is characterized by vast lava fields, dotted with turnoff points from Highway 19 leading to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Most lava flows here originate from the last eruptions of Hualalai, in 1800 and 1801, although some flows by the resorts (primarily Mauna Lani, to the north) hail from Mauna Loa. The stark black lavascapes contrast spectacularly with luminous azure waters framed by coconut palms and white-sand beaches. Some of the turnoffs will take you to state parks with parking lots and bathrooms, while others are simply a park-on-the-highway-and-hike-in adventure.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Head north from Kona International Airport and follow Highway 19 along the coast. Take caution driving at night between the airport and where resorts begin on the Kohala Coast; it’s extremely dark, and there are few road signs, street lights or traffic lights on this two-lane road. Wild donkeys and goats may appear on the roadway without warning, not to mention speeders.

s Sights

HKaloko–Honokohau National Historical Park

NATIONAL PARK | FAMILY | The trails at this sheltered 1,160-acre coastal park near Honokohau Harbor, just north of Kailua-Kona, are popular with walkers and hikers, and the park is a good place to observe Hawaiian archaeological history and intact ruins. These include a heiau (temple), house platforms, ancient fishponds, and numerous petroglyphs along a boardwalk. The park’s wetlands provide refuge to waterbirds such as the endemic Hawaiian stilt and coot. Two beaches here are good for swimming, sunbathing, and sea turtle spotting: Aiopio, a few yards north of the harbor, is small and calm, with protected swimming areas (good for kids); Honokohau Beach, also north of the harbor, is a ¾-mile stretch with ruins of ancient fishponds. Of the park’s three entrances, the middle one leads to a visitor center with helpful rangers and lots of information. Local docents with backgrounds in geology or other subjects give nature walks. To go directly to the beaches, take the harbor road north of the Gentry retail center, park in the gravel lot, and follow the signs. E74–425 Kealakehe Pkwy., off Hwy. 19 near airport, Kailua-Kona j3 miles south of Kona International Airport P808/329–6881 wwww.nps.gov/kaho AFree.

Mountain Thunder

FARM/RANCH | FAMILY | This coffee producer offers hourly “bean-to-cup” tours, including a tasting and access to the processing plant, which shows dry milling, sizing, coloring, sorting, and roasting. For $10, take the lava tube/nature walk in the cloud forest ecosystem. There’s a small retail store where you can purchase coffee and souvenirs. Remember that afternoon rains are common at this elevation, so bring an umbrella and sturdy shoes. E73-1944 Hao St., Kailua-Kona P808/325–5566 wwww.mountainthunder.com AFree; nature walk $10.

NELHA’s Hawaii Ocean Science Technology Park

OTHER ATTRACTION | Just south of Kona International Airport, a big building with a large photovoltaic (solar) panel installation resembles a top-secret military station, but it’s actually the site of the Natural Energy Lab of Hawaii Authority’s (NELHA) Hawaii Ocean Science Technology (HOST) Park. Here, scientists, researchers, and entrepreneurs make use of a cold, deep-sea pipeline to develop and market everything from desalinated, mineral-rich drinking water and super-nutritious algae products to energy-efficient air-conditioning systems to environmentally friendly aquaculture techniques. Seahorses, abalone, kampachi (a type of yellowtail), Dungeness crab, and Maine lobsters are raised here, too. Farm tours are available directly through tenants Big Island Abalone, Ocean Rider Sea Horse Farm, and Sea Salts of Hawaii. E73-4485 Kahilihili St., Kailua-Kona P808/329–8073 wkcshi.org A$53 CClosed Sat. and Sun.

; Beaches

Kekaha Kai State Park – Kua Bay Side

BEACH | FAMILY | On the northernmost stretch of the park’s coastline, this lovely beach fronts an absolutely beautiful bay with crystal-clear, deep aquamarine water. It’s peaceful in summer, but the park’s paved entrance, amenities, and parking lot make the beach very accessible and, as a result, often crowded. Fine white sand sits in stark contrast to old black lava flows, and there’s little shade—bring umbrellas. Rocky shores on either side protect the beach from afternoon winds and offer some fabulous snorkeling spots. Gates open daily from 8 to 7. In winter, surf can get rough, and often the sand washes away. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: surfing; swimming. EHwy. 19, north of mile marker 88, Kailua-Kona jAcross from Veterans Cemetery wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp AFree.

HKekaha Kai State Park – Mahaiula Side

BEACH | It’s slow going down a 1.8-mile, bumpy but partially paved road off Highway 19 to this beach park, but the lovely beaches are worth it when you reach the end. Very low-profile rentals may have some trouble making the drive. This state park encompasses three beaches: from south to north, Mahaiula, Makalawena, and Kua Bay, which has its own entrance. Mahaiula and Makalawena are classically beautiful expanses of white sand with dunes. Makalawena has great swimming and body boarding. (zMakalawena, sandwiched between the two state parks, is private property and falls under the jurisdiction of Kamehameha Schools Bishop Estates.) Watch out for rough surf and strong currents, especially in winter. From Makalawena, a 4½-mile trail leads to Kua Bay. If you’re game, work your way on foot to the top of Puu Kuili, a 342-foot-high cinder cone with a fantastic coastline view. But be prepared for the heat and bring water, as there are no services of any kind in the park. Gates at the highway entrance close promptly at 7, so you must leave the lot by about 6:30. Amenities: toilets. Best for: swimming. EHwy. 19, Kailua-Kona jTurnoff is about 2 miles north of Kona International Airport P808/974–6200 wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp AFree.

r Restaurants

Pine Tree Cafe

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | This low-key, no-frills café offers local plate lunch options and classics such as loco moco (meat, rice, and eggs smothered in gravy), alongside new inventions like crab curry bisque. The prices are very affordable, and the portions are huge. Known for: early-morning breakfast; fresh fish; popular with locals. DAverage main: $10 E73-4040 Hulikoa St., Kailua-Kona P808/327–1234 wpinetreecafehi.com.

HULU Ocean Grill

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Casual elegance takes center stage at the resort’s flagship oceanfront restaurant, one of the most upscale restaurants on the Big Island. Diverse menu choices include roasted beet salad, flame-grilled prime New York steak, Kona lobster, shrimp pad Thai, and more. Known for: sushi lounge; ingredients sourced from 160 local purveyors; impressive wine list. DAverage main: $45 EFour Seasons Resort Hualalai, 72-100 Kaupulehu Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/325–8000 wwww.fourseasons.com CNo lunch.

h Hotels

HFour Seasons Resort Hualalai

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Beautiful views everywhere, polished wood floors, custom furnishings and linens, and fine Hawaiian artwork make this oceanfront resort a peaceful, opulent retreat. Pros: beautiful location; gourmet restaurants; renowned service. Cons: not the best beach among the resorts; quite pricey; 20-minute drive to Kailua-Kona. DRooms from: $1,340 E72-100 Kaupulehu Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/325–8000, 888/340–5662 wwww.fourseasons.com/hualalai a243 rooms XNo Meals.

HKona Village – A Rosewood Resort

$$$$ | HOTEL | Years after being destroyed by a tsunami, one of Kona’s most beloved resorts has reopened, completely remodeled, yet retaining much of what made the original so special. Pros: commitment to sustainability; good wedding destination; freestanding rooms. Cons: remote location; not all hales have views; pricey. DRooms from: $1,695 E72-300 Maheawalu Drive, Kailua-Kona P808/865–2545 wrosewoodhotels.com a150 rooms XFree Breakfast.

South Kona

Kealakekua is 14 miles south of Kailua-Kona.

Between its coffee plantations, artsy havens, and Kealakekua Bay—one of the most beautiful spots on the Big Island—South Kona has plenty of activities to occupy a day. Bring a swimsuit and snorkel gear, and hit Kealakekua Bay first thing in the morning. You’ll beat the crowds, have a better chance of a dolphin sighting, and see more fish. After a morning of swimming or kayaking, head to one of the homey cafés in nearby Captain Cook to refuel.

The meandering road leading to Kealakekua Bay is home to a historic painted church, as well as coffee-tasting spots and several reasonably priced B&Bs with great views. The communities surrounding the bay (Kealakekua and Captain Cook) are brimming with local and transplanted artists. These towns are great places to shop for gifts or antiques, have some coffee, or take an afternoon stroll.

Several coffee farms around the Kona coffee-belt area welcome visitors to watch all or part of the coffee-production process, from harvest to packaging. Some tours are self-guided and many are free, with the exception of the Kona Coffee Living History Farm.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Upcountry South Kona, elevation 1,400 feet, is about 9 miles from Kailua-Kona town, and is mainly served by a 25–35 mph, single-lane highway. The beach areas must be accessed by side roads that take you back down to sea level. Some are steep; others winding.

Plenty of free parking is available throughout South Kona.

To get to Kealakekua Bay, follow the signs off Highway 11 and park at Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park. It’s not much of a beach (it used to be before Hurricane Iniki washed it away in 1992), but it provides access to the water and beautiful views across the bay. Parking is extremely limited. Use caution if waters are rough; it can be difficult to exit the water due to the large boulders.

s Sights

HCaptain James Cook Monument

MONUMENT | On February 14, 1779, famed English explorer Captain James Cook was killed here during an apparent misunderstanding with local residents, and this 27-foot-high obelisk marks the spot where he died. He had chosen Kealakekua Bay as a landing place in November 1778. Arriving during the celebration of Makahiki, the harvest season, Cook was welcomed at first. Some Hawaiians saw him as an incarnation of the god Lono. Cook’s party sailed away in February 1779, but a freak storm forced his damaged ship back to Kealakekua Bay. Believing that no god could be thwarted by a mere rainstorm, the Hawaiians were not so welcoming this time. The theft of a longboat brought Cook and an armed party ashore to reclaim it. Shots were fired, daggers and spears were thrown, and Cook fell, mortally wounded.

A trail leading to the site is accessible from the top of Napoopoo Road, but caution is advised. The very strenuous trail gains an elevation of about 1,500 feet and is recommended for advanced hikers only. ECaptain Cook.

HGreenwell Farms

FARM/RANCH | FAMILY | Depending on the season, the 20-minute walking tour of this working farm takes in various stages of coffee production, including a look at the 100-year-old coffee trees. The Greenwell family played a significant role in the cultivation of the first commercial coffee in the Kona area (as well as the first grocery store). No reservations are required, unless you are booking for a private party, which does have a cost. You can also book a master brewing class. E81-6581 Mamalahoa Hwy., Kealakekua jOcean side, between mile markers 112 and 111 P808/323–2295 wwww.greenwellfarms.com AFree.

HKealakekua Bay State Historical Park

STATE/PROVINCIAL PARK | One of the most beautiful spots in the state, this underwater marine reserve has dramatic cliffs that surround super deep, crystal clear, turquoise water chock-full of stunning coral pinnacles and tropical fish. The federally protected dolphins that frequent the sanctuary should not be disturbed, as they use the bay to sleep and escape predators. There’s very little sand at west-facing Napoopoo Beach, but this is a nice place to enter the water and swim (when the water is calm) as it’s well protected from currents. There are no lifeguards, but there are bathrooms, a pavilion, shower, and limited parking. The Captain James Cook Monument, marking where the explorer died, is at the northern edge of the bay. Stay at least 300 feet from the shoreline along the cliffs, which have become unstable during recent earthquakes. A limited number of tour operators offer snorkeling and kayaking tours nearby. EBeach Rd., off Government Rd. from Puuhonua Rd. (Hwy. 160), Captain Cook wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp AFree.

HKona Coffee Living History Farm

FARM/RANCH | On the National Register of Historic Places, this perfectly preserved farm was completely restored by the Kona Historical Society. It includes a 1913 farmhouse first homesteaded by the Uchida family and is surrounded by coffee trees, a Japanese bathhouse, a kuriba (coffee-processing mill), and a hoshidana (traditional drying platform). Caretakers still grow, harvest, roast, and sell the coffee exactly as they did more than 100 years ago. All admission proceeds directly help the nonprofit’s educational efforts. lCall ahead to confirm hours, as they have been limited and varied. E82-6199 Mamalahoa Hwy., mile marker 110, Kealakekua P808/323–2006 wwww.konahistorical.org A$20 CClosed Sat. and Sun.

Kona Rainforest Farms

FARM/RANCH | At this family-owned business, the commitment to growing 100% organic coffee starts even before the plants are in the ground, with organic mulch and naturally developed fertilizers that they also sell throughout Hawaii. No pesticides or commercial fertilizers are used on the 80-acre farm. Because it’s such an exacting process, only 2% of Kona coffee can claim to be 100% certified organic. They process coffee from cherry to roasted on a solar-powered mill. The farm does private tours (with tastings) by appointment only and even offers a guesthouse should you wish to stay a little longer than a day. lThe property can be accessed only by four-wheel-drive vehicles. E87-2854 Mamalahoa Hwy., Captain Cook P808/328–1941 wwww.mawahocoffee.com AFree xTours by appointment only.

HPuuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (Place of Refuge)

NATIONAL PARK | This breathtaking, 420-acre National Historical Park has the best preserved puuhonua (place of refuge) in the state, and an aura of ancient sacredness and serenity still imbues the place. Providing a safe haven for noncombatants, kapu (taboo) breakers, defeated warriors, and others, the puuhonua offered protection and redemption for anyone who could reach its boundaries, by land or sea. The oceanfront, 960-foot stone wall built more than 400 years ago still stands and is one of the park’s most prominent features. A number of ceremonial temples, including the restored Hale o Keawe Heiau (circa 1700), have served as royal burial chambers. Bring a picnic to the oceanfront park, where there are tables and bathrooms. The 2¼-mile, 1871 Trail takes you past incredible lava features and historic sites. This treasure of a park is a must-see for every visitor to the Big Island. ERte. 160, Honaunau jAbout 20 miles south of Kailua-Kona P808/328–2288 wwww.nps.gov/puho A$20 per vehicle.

Royal Kona Coffee Center and Coffee Mill

FACTORY | FAMILY | Come here to learn how growers create the perfect cup of Kona coffee through a multilayered process, with coffee cherries getting pulped, sorted, and dried in preparation for roasting, both by hand and with machinery. Take an easy, self-guided tour of this mill by following the descriptive plaques around the property. Then stop off at the coffee center to see coffee-making relics, peruse the gift shop, and watch an informational film. Visitors can also enjoy the beautiful views and stroll through a real lava tube on the grounds. E83-5427 Mamalahoa Hwy., Honaunau jNext to the tree house P808/328–2511 wwww.royalkonacoffee.com AFree CClosed Sat. and Sun.

; Beaches

HNapoopoo Beach

BEACH | Gorgeous and undeveloped, this area in the state historical park offers extraordinary vistas and protected swimming. The shoreline is rocky, but the area is surrounded by high green cliffs, creating calm conditions for superb swimming, snorkeling, and diving (beware of jellyfish). Protected Hawaiian spinner dolphins come to rest and escape predators during the day. Captain James Cook first landed in Hawaii here in 1778, but a year later he was killed in a skirmish with Hawaiians, now marked by a monument on the bay’s north end. Rocky but walkable trails lead to Hikiau Heiau, a sacred place for the Hawaiian people. Please proceed respectfully and do not walk on it or enter it. Parking is very limited. Be aware of the off-limits area (in case of rockfalls) marked by orange buoys. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. EKealakekua Bay State Historical Park, Napoopoo Rd. off Hwy. 11, just south of mile marker 111, Captain Cook P808/961–9544 wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp AFree.

r Restaurants

HKaaloa’s Super J’s Authentic Hawaiian Food

$ | HAWAIIAN | It figures that the best laulau (pork or chicken wrapped in taro leaves and steamed) in West Hawaii can be found at a roadside hole-in-the-wall rather than at an expensive resort luau; in fact, this humble family-run eatery was featured on the Food Network’s The Best Thing I Ever Ate. Plate lunches to go include tender chicken or pork laulau, steamed for up to 10 hours. Known for: tasty kalua pig and cabbage; friendly and welcoming proprietors; lomi lomi salmon. DAverage main: $9 E83-5409 Mamalahoa Hwy., between mile markers 106 and 107, Honaunau P808/328–9566 CClosed Sun.

Keei Cafe at Hokukano

$$ | ECLECTIC | This nicely appointed restaurant with a warm, woodsy vibe serves delicious dinners with Brazilian, Asian, and European flavors, highlighting fresh ingredients from local farmers. Favorites are the pork chops, Brazilian seafood chowder, peanut-miso salad, and pasta primavera smothered with a basil-pesto sauce. Known for: most upscale restaurant in South Kona; live dinner music; cash only. DAverage main: $20 E79-7511 Mamalahoa Hwy., Kealakekua j½ mile south of Kainaliu P808/322–9992 cNo credit cards CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

HManago Hotel Restaurant

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | The historic Manago Hotel is like walking into a time warp, complete with a vintage neon sign, old-timey TV room, high school trophies on the shelves, and old photos on the walls. Their T-shirts brag (and it’s not false advertising) that the restaurant has the best grilled pork chops in the world; the fresh fish and New York steak are excellent as well. Known for: one of the only places in Kona serving opelu, a local fish; mains come with a variety of side dishes; local hospitality. DAverage main: $12 E82-6155 Mamalahoa Hwy., Captain Cook P808/323–2642 wwww.managohotel.com CClosed Mon.

Teshima’s Restaurant

$ | JAPANESE | FAMILY | Its modest exterior and interior belie the fantastic South Kona experience Teshima’s brings; it has been a kamaaina (local) favorite since 1929 for a reason. Locals gather at this small landmark restaurant whenever they’re in the mood for fresh sashimi, puffy shrimp tempura, or hekka (beef and vegetables cooked in an iron pot). Known for: excellent tempura combos; long-standing family-owned establishment; authentic local flavor. DAverage main: $15 E79-7251 Mamalahoa Hwy., Honalo P808/322–9140 wwww.teshimarestaurant.com.

Coffee and Quick Bites

The Coffee Shack

$ | AMERICAN | Visitors enjoy stopping here before or after a morning of snorkeling at Kealakekua Bay, and for good reason: the views of the Honaunau Coast from this roadside restaurant are nothing short of drop-dead stunning. This place is best for breakfast or a quick bite, as overpriced mains can miss; but if you’re in the mood for a Hawaiian smoothie, iced honey-mocha latte, or scone, it’s worth the stop. Known for: house-baked luau bread; its own brand of Kona coffee; popular spot with limited parking. DAverage main: $12 E83-5799 Mamalahoa Hwy., Captain Cook P808/328–9555 wwww.coffeeshack.com CClosed Wed.

Kona Coffee r

The Kona coffee belt, some 16 miles long and about a half-mile wide, has been producing smooth, aromatic coffee for more than a century. The slopes of massive Mauna Loa at this elevation provide the ideal conditions for growing coffee: sunny mornings; cloudy, rainy afternoons; and rich, rocky, volcanic soil. More than 600 farms, most just 3 to 7 acres in size, grow the delicious—and luxurious, at generally more than $40 per pound—gourmet beans. Only coffee from the North and South Kona districts can be called Kona (labeling requirements are strict and fiercely defended), and Hawaii is the only state in the United States that produces commercially grown coffee.

The caffeine goodness began in 1828, when the Reverend Samuel Ruggles, an American missionary, brought a cutting over from the Oahu farm of Chief Boki, Oahu’s governor. That coffee plant was a strain of Ethiopian coffee called Arabica, which is still produced today, although a Guatemalan strain of Arabica introduced in the late 1800s is produced in far higher quantities.

In the early 1900s, the large Hawaiian coffee plantations subdivided their lots and began leasing parcels to local tenant farmers, a practice that continues today. Many tenant farmers were Japanese families. In the 1930s, local schools switched summer vacation to “coffee vacation,” August to November, so that children could help with the coffee harvest, a practice that held until 1969.

When coffee trees are flowering, the white blossoms are fondly known as “Kona snow.” Once ripened, coffee is harvested as “cherries”—beans encased in a sweet, red shell. Kona coffee trees are handpicked several times each season to guarantee the ripest product. The cherries are shelled, their parchment layer sun-dried and removed, and the beans roasted to perfection. Today most farms—owned and operated by Japanese-American families, West Coast mainland transplants, and descendants of Portuguese and Chinese immigrants—control production from cultivation to cup.

h Hotels

Aloha Guest House

$$ | B&B/INN | In the hills above Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, this guesthouse offers quiet elegance, complete privacy, and beautiful ocean views from every room. Pros: eco-conscious option; delicious full breakfast; kitchenette in common area. Cons: remote location up a bumpy 1-mile dirt road; 40 minutes from downtown; four-wheel drive recommended. DRooms from: $250 EOld Tobacco Rd., off Hwy. 11, near mile marker 104, Honaunau P808/328–8955 wwww.alohaguesthouse.com a5 rooms XFree Breakfast.

Horizon Guest House

$$$$ | B&B/INN | Surrounded by McCandless Ranch on 40 acres in South Kona, this place may seem remote, but it’s actually just a short drive from some of the best water attractions on the island, including Puuhonua O Honaunau, Kealakekua Bay, and Hookena Beach. Pros: private and quiet; heated pool with Jacuzzi; lovely ocean views. Cons: not on the beach; 40 minutes from Kailua-Kona; pricier option considering the location. DRooms from: $400 E86-3992 Mamalahoa Hwy., between mile markers 101 and 100, Captain Cook P808/938–7822 wwww.horizonguesthouse.com a4 suites XFree Breakfast.

HKaawa Loa Plantation

$$ | B&B/INN | On a 5-acre coffee farm above Kealakekua Bay, proprietors Mike Martinage and Greg Nunn operate a grand yet very reasonably priced B&B in a plantation-style home featuring a 2,000-square-foot wraparound veranda with excellent views of the bay and the entire Honaunau Coast. Pros: gracious and friendly hosts; excellent breakfast; Hawaiian steam room. Cons: not within walking distance of bay; some rooms share a bath; slightly steep turnoff. DRooms from: $209 E82-5990 Napoopoo Rd., Captain Cook P808/323–2686 wwww.kaawaloaplantation.com a5 rooms XFree Breakfast.

Kane Plantation Guesthouse

$$$ | B&B/INN | The former home of the late legendary artist Herb Kane, this luxury boutique guesthouse occupies a 16-acre avocado farm overlooking the South Kona coastline. Pros: sauna, hot tub, and massage therapy room; upscale amenities; beautiful artwork. Cons: not on the beach; off the beaten track; 25 minutes to downtown. DRooms from: $335 E84-1120 Telephone Exchange Rd., off Hwy. 11, Honaunau j¼ mile past mile marker 105, south of Captain Cook P808/328–2416 wwww.kaneplantationhawaii.com a3 suites XFree Breakfast.

HManago Hotel

$ | HOTEL | If you are on a budget but still want to be near attractions such as Kealakekua Bay and Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, this 42-room historical hotel is a good option. Pros: authentic local color; rock-bottom prices; terrific on-site restaurant. Cons: not the best sound insulation between rooms; older decor; some rooms have highway noise. DRooms from: $91 E81-6155 Mamalahoa Hwy., Captain Cook P808/323–2642 wwww.managohotel.com a64 rooms XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

Korner Pocket Sports Bar & Grill

BARS | A favored haunt of the South Kona crowd, Korner Pocket is tucked into the back of an office plaza and looks like a dive at first glance. But don’t let appearances fool you. They serve fantastic, affordable food, ranging from scrumptious burgers to a killer prime rib. The fish taco is a reliable bet. Popular local bands frequently perform, with no cover, and everyone gets up to dance. You can also play pool. It’s one of the only places open late in South Kona. E81-970 Halekii St., Kealakekua P808/322–2994 wkornerpocketkona.com.

The Kohala Coast and Waimea

If you had only a weekend to spend on the Big Island, this is probably where you’d want to be. The Kohala Coast is a mix of the island’s best beaches and swankiest hotels, and it’s also not far from ancient valleys and temples, waterfalls, and funky artist enclaves.

This area is home to almost all of the Big Island’s megaresorts. Dotting the coastline are manicured lawns and golf courses, restaurants, and destination spas. But the real attraction here is the area’s glorious beaches. On a clear day, you can see Maui, and during the winter months, numerous glistening humpback whales cleave the waters just offshore. Many visitors to the Big Island check in here and rarely leave the Kohala Coast. If you’re looking to be pampered and lounge on the beach or by the pool all day with an umbrella drink in hand, this is where you need to be. You can still see the rest of the island since most of the hiking and adventure-tour companies offer pickups at the Kohala Coast resorts, and many hotels have connections to car rental agencies (though the number of cars is limited, and you will need to book ahead).

Rounding the northern tip of the island, the arid coast shifts rather suddenly to green villages and hillsides, leading to lush Pololu Valley in North Kohala, where the hot sunshine along the coast gives way to cooler temperatures. In this area are Hawi and Kapaau, quaint sugar-plantation towns turned artsy villages. New galleries are interspersed with charming reminders of old Hawaii—wooden boardwalks, quaint local storefronts, ice cream shops, delicious neighborhood restaurants, friendly locals, and a delightfully slow pace. There’s great shopping for everything from antiques and designer beachwear to authentic Hawaiian crafts.

A short drive from the resorts, Waimea’s upcountry, pastoral countryside is sprinkled with well-tended vintage homes with picket fences and flower beds. There’s a gentle paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) vibe throughout the town, which boasts a number of excellent restaurants worth seeking out.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Two days (or three, if your schedule allows) is sufficient time for experiencing each unique side of Kohala—one day for the resort perks, including the beach, the spa, the golf, and the restaurants; one day for hiking and admiring the waterfalls and valleys of North Kohala, coupled with a wander around Hawi and Kapaau. In addition, don’t miss a quick drive up to explore the rustic town of Waimea, with its restaurants, galleries, and bucolic scenery.

The best way to explore the valleys of North Kohala is with a hiking tour. Look for one that includes lunch, maybe a zip line, and a dip in one of the area’s waterfall pools.

While some resort guests enjoy staying at a single property for their entire trip, others appreciate having a rental car to sightsee and explore the island’s wide diversity at their own pace. There are many rental options at the airport, but if you change your mind mid-trip and want to rent a car, the rental companies operate a satellite office from the Fairmont Orchid Hotel and one in Waikoloa Village.

Waikoloa

25 miles north of Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport.

Waikoloa is a region known for its two large resort properties (one a bit outlandish), excellent golf, and eclectic shopping at both the Kings’ Shops and Queens’ MarketPlace. Sushi, local grills, food courts, small markets, and pricey restaurants all combine to give you abundant eating choices in Waikoloa. The natural gem here is the stunning, classically tropical Anaehoomalu Bay, once the site of royal fishponds and today an ideal spot to soak up some sun, explore along the trails, or try windsurfing. Waikoloa Village, a few miles inland and up the hill to the northeast, offers golf and rental condos for a fraction of the cost of the big resorts.

; Beaches

HAnaehoomalu Bay

BEACH | FAMILY | This gorgeous, expansive stretch of white sand, fringed with coconut palms, fronts the Waikoloa Beach Marriott and is a perfect spot for swimming, windsurfing, snorkeling, and diving. Unlike some Kohala Coast beaches near hotel properties, this one is very accessible to the public and offers plenty of free parking. The bay is well protected, so even when the surf is rough or the trade winds are blasting, it’s fairly calm here. (Mornings are calmest.) Snorkel gear, kayaks, and body boards are available for rent at the north end.

lLocals will appreciate your efforts to use the proper name (pronounced ā’-nāe-ho’o-mā’lu) rather than simply its nickname, “A-Bay.”

Behind the beach are two ancient Hawaiian fishponds, Kuualii and Kahapapa, that once served ancient Hawaiian royalty. A walking trail follows the coastline to the Hilton Waikoloa Village next door, passing by tide pools, ponds, and a turtle sanctuary where sea turtles can often be spotted sunbathing on the sand. Footwear is recommended for the trail. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; sunset; swimming; walking. E69-275 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa jJust south of Waikoloa Beach Marriott; turn left at Kings’ Shops AFree.

r Restaurants

HA-Bay’s Island Grill

$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Beachy yet upscale, this restaurant has an in-house beer sommelier who advises on the perfect pairing with your food choice, which can range from fresh catch, steak, burgers, and sandwiches to crab cakes and escargots. Many dishes incorporate Hawaiian touches. Known for: fish tacos; patio seating available; great tapas menu. DAverage main: $20 EKings’ Shops, 250 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/209–8494 wwww.a-bays.com.

KPC (Kamuela Provision Company)

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | The breezy lanai has the most spectacular view of the leeward coast of any restaurant on the Big Island, and it’s the perfect accompaniment to the elegant yet down-to-earth Hawaii Regional Cuisine and specialty cocktails. Entrées are on the pricey side, but the Chinese-style mahi mahi with mung bean, jade pesto, and ginger scallion sizzle is a winner, and the broiled Keahole lobster does not disappoint. Known for: specialty cocktails, such as the mango mojito; the island’s best sunset dinner spot; chef’s specials nightly. DAverage main: $55 EHilton Waikoloa Village, 69-425 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/886–1234 wwww.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com CNo lunch.

HLava Lava Beach Club Restaurant

$$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | Dig your toes into the sand and enjoy one of the most happening, entertaining, and memorable bar/restaurants on the Kohala Coast. There’s something for everybody here, whether you want cocktails and pupus (appetizers) for sunset or a fine-dining experience; highlights include macadamia-nut-and-arare-crusted fresh island fish, baby back ribs, and the chef’s signature gazpacho topped with macadamia nut pesto. Known for: live entertainment; great Parmesan lava tots and coconut shrimp; signature Sandy Toes cocktail. DAverage main: $30 E69-1081 Kuualii Pl., Waikoloa P808/769–5282 wlavalavabeachclub.com/bigisland.

Pueo’s Osteria

$$$ | ITALIAN | Perched in a shopping center in Waikoloa Village, this late-night destination also serves dinner from 5 until 9 pm: pueo means “owl” in Hawaiian, and refers to the restaurant’s “night owl” concept. Renowned executive chef James Babian (Four Seasons Hualalai, Fairmont Orchid) serves multiregional Italian offerings that combine farm-fresh ingredients with fine imported Italian products like prosciutto from Parma. Known for: inventive cocktails; late-night bar menu until 11 pm; Tuscan-inspired dining room. DAverage main: $33 E68-1820 Waikoloa Rd., #1201, Waikoloa P808/339–7566 wwww.pueososteria.com CNo lunch.

Roy’s Waikoloa Bar and Grill

$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | One of celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi’s Hawaii restaurants, this reliable, albeit pricey, place overlooks the lake at the Kings’ Shops. Despite the restaurant’s boxy interior, the food is good; the three-course, prix-fixe meal is a sure bet, as is blackened ahi. Known for: great appetizers to share; extensive list of wines by the glass; Hawaiian fusion cuisine. DAverage main: $40 EKings’ Shops at Waikoloa Village, 69-250 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/886–4321 wwww.roysrestaurant.com CNo lunch.

Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar

$$ | JAPANESE | FAMILY | Creative sushi and contemporary Asian cuisine take center stage at this entertaining restaurant at Queens’ MarketPlace, where you can make a meal out of appetizers and sushi rolls or feast on great entrées from both land and sea. Though it has tried-and-true mainstays, the menu is consistently updated to include options such as Hawaiian ahi carpaccio and Japanese yellowtail nori aioli poke. Known for: sushi bar specials; panko-encrusted ahi sashimi roll; karaoke on the weekends. DAverage main: $20 EQueens’ MarketPlace, 201 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Suite 801, Waikoloa P808/886–6286 wwww.sanseihawaii.com CClosed Tues. and Wed.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Island Fish and Chips

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Hidden lakeside at the Kings’ Shops, this little takeout place is a best-kept secret in the Waikoloa Beach Resort. The combo baskets brim with tempura fresh-catch fish, chicken, shrimp, and more. Known for: breakfast options such as loco moco laden with tempura fish fillet; local ownership since 2000; great fish-and-chips to go. DAverage main: $15 EKings’ Shops, 69-250 Waikoloa Beach Dr., #D3, Waikoloa P808/886–0005.

h Hotels

Aston Shores at Waikoloa

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Villas with terra-cotta-tile roofs are set amid landscaped lagoons and waterfalls at the edge of the championship Waikoloa Village Golf Course. Pros: good prices for the area; free parking; kid-friendly option with a pool and in-room kitchens. Cons: no restaurants on-site; daily resort fee; older decor in some rooms. DRooms from: $395 E69-1035 Keana Pl., Waikoloa P808/886–5001, 800/922–7866 wwww.aquaaston.com a120 suites XNo Meals.

Hilton Waikoloa Village

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Gondola trams glide by, pint-size guests zoom down the 175-foot waterslide, a bride poses on the grand staircase, a fire-bearing runner lights the torches along the seaside path at sunset—these are some typical scenes at this 62-acre megaresort. Pros: family-friendly saltwater lagoon; lots of restaurant and activity options, including two golf courses; close to retail shopping. Cons: gigantic and crowded; $48 per night resort fee; restaurants are pricey. DRooms from: $448 E69-425 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/886–1234, 800/445–8667 wwww.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com a1,241 rooms XNo Meals.

HKolea at Waikoloa Beach Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | These modern, impeccably furnished condos offer far more high-end amenities than the average condo complex, including both an infinity pool and a sand-bottom children’s pool at its oceanside Beach Club, a fitness center, and a hot tub. Pros: can walk to beach; close to activities; resort amenities of nearby Hilton. Cons: pricey for not being directly on the beach; no on-property restaurants; limited view from some units. DRooms from: $496 EWaikoloa Beach Resort, 69-1000 Kolea Kai Circle, Waikoloa P808/987–4519 wwww.kolea.com a53 units XNo Meals.

HLava Lava Beach Club Cottages

$$$$ | HOUSE | FAMILY | Spend the day swimming at the beach just steps away from your private lanai and fall asleep to the sound of the ocean at one of four artfully decorated, one-room cottages on the sandy beach at Anaehoomalu Bay. These cottages are among the few beachfront rentals you will find anywhere on the island. Pros: one of the island’s few beachfront rentals; fully air-conditioned; fun, Hawaii-themed decor. Cons: beach is public, so there may be people in front of cottage; quite expensive; noise, music from nearby restaurant. DRooms from: $699 E69-1081 Kuualii Pl., Waikoloa P808/769–5282 wwww.lavalavabeachclub.com a4 cottages XNo Meals.

Kohala Condo Comforts h

Renting a resort condo is a great way to relax near the beach with many of the comforts of home. The upside is that you get all the pluses of being near a resort with all the privacy of your own place. Most condos have kitchens or a place to barbecue, so you’ll want to stock up on groceries.

The nearest full-service market is KTA Super Stores (E68-3916 Paniolo Ave., Waikoloa Village P808/883–1088), no more than a half hour from the resorts.

Even closer are both the Kings’ Shops (E250 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/886–8811) and the Queens’ MarketPlace (E201 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/886–8822) in the Waikoloa Beach Resort. There is a small general store with a liquor department and several nice restaurants at the Kings’ Shops. Across the street, Queens’ MarketPlace also has a food court and sit-down restaurants, as well as a gourmet market where you can get pizza baked to order.

Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort and Spa

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Encompassing 15 acres replete with ancient fishponds, historic trails, and petroglyph fields, the Marriott offers rooms with sleek modern beds, bright white linens, Hawaiian art, and private lanai. Pros: more low-key than the Hilton Waikoloa; sunset luau Wednesday and Saturday; sand-bottom pool for kids. Cons: some rooms lack views; expensive daily parking charge; resort fee of $40 per day. DRooms from: $637 E69-275 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/886–6789, 800/228–9290 wwww.marriott.com a297 rooms XNo Meals.

p Performing Arts

LUAU

Legends of Hawaii Luau at Hilton Waikoloa Village

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | FAMILY | Presented outdoors at the Kamehameha Court, the aptly subtitled “Our Big Island Story” features song and a fire-knife dance as well as a delicious buffet with Big Island–grown luau choices and more familiar fare and tropical drinks. Pay a small fee and upgrade to Alii seating for a front-row vantage; unlimited cocktails, beer, and wine; and your own buffet station. A children’s station has kid favorites. Delicious desserts such as haupia (coconut pudding) cream puffs and Kona-coffee cheesecake top it all off. EHilton Waikoloa Village, 69-425 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/886–1234 wwww.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com A$190.

Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort and Spa Sunset Luau

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | In a setting overlooking the white sands of Anaehoomalu Bay, this Polynesian luau includes a spectacular Samoan fire-dance performance as well as traditional music and dances from Pacific Island cultures. Making use of island ingredients such as Waipio Valley poi, Keahole shrimp, and Pulehu steaks, the menu by executive chef Jayson Kanekoa treats guests to authentic island flavors. Probably the most affordable luau on the island, they also offer an open bar. EWaikoloa Beach Marriott Resort and Spa, 69-275 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/886–8111 wwww.waikoloabeachresort.com A$159.

Hawaiian Music on the Big Island p

It’s easy to forget that Hawaii has its own style of music until you step off a plane onto the Islands—and then there’s no escaping it. It’s a unique blend of the strings and percussion imported by early Portuguese settlers and the chants and rituals of the ancient Hawaiians, reflecting the unique mixed heritage of this special place. Hawaiian music today includes Island-born tunings of acoustic guitar—slack key and steel guitar—along with the ukulele and vocals.

This is one of the few folk music traditions in the United States that is fully embraced by the younger generation, with no prodding from their parents or grandparents. A good many radio stations on the Big Island play Hawaiian/“island”/reggae music, and concerts performed by Island favorites like Makana or L. T. Smooth are filled with fans of all ages.

The best introduction is one of the annual festivals: the free Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Festival (Labor Day weekend), with a handful of greats performing at the Outrigger Kona Resort and Spa; the Great Waikoloa Ukulele Festival (March), which features prominent players and everything ukulele; and the KWXX Hoolaulea (September), a popular Island music jam with big names performing on four stages in downtown Hilo.

You can also catch live performances most nights at a handful of local bars and clubs, including Big Kahuna, Huggo’s on the Rocks, Laverne’s, and the Kona Brewing Co. in Kailua-Kona; Korner Pocket in Kealakekua; and Cronies Bar and Grill in Hilo.

Wherever you go on the island, sweet Hawaiian music fills the air.

b Shopping

ARTS AND CRAFTS

Hawaiian Quilt Collection

CRAFTS | The iconic Hawaiian quilt is a work of art that is prized and passed down through generations. At this store, the oldest quilt retailer in Hawaii, you’ll find everything from hand-quilted purses and bags to wall hangings and blankets. More than likely, a friendly Hawaiian tutu (grandma) will be in the shop talking story. You can even get a take-home kit and sew your own Hawaiian quilt. EQueens’ MarketPlace, 69-201 Waikoloa Beach Dr., #305, Waikoloa P808/886–0494 wwww.hawaiian-quilts.com.

GALLERIES

HLava Light Galleries

ART GALLERY | C.J. Kale is an accomplished, award-winning photographer famous for capturing extraordinary images of lava flowing through the curl of a wave. Not a believer in using any photo manipulation or special effects, Kale produces work that is as authentic as it gets. He and gallery partners Linda and Don Hurzeler showcase their fine images of the beauty of Hawaii and other scenic places around the world. EQueens’ MarketPlace, 69-201 Waikoloa Beach Dr., #F-13, Waikoloa P808/756–0778 wwww.lavalightgalleries.com.

JEWELRY

HNa Hoku

JEWELRY & WATCHES | In business since 1924 and the oldest and largest jeweler in Hawaii, this impressive retailer specializes in crafting stunning pieces that reflect the beauty of the islands. You will see sand, sun, and sea in their signature Wave collection—pendants set with diamonds and inlaid with shimmering blue iridescent opal. If you can’t afford gold and diamonds, consider one of their charming Puka Bead build-a-bracelet creations, an affordable option. EKings’ Shops, 69-250 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/886–7566 wnahoku.com.

SHOPPING CENTERS

Kings’ Shops

SHOPPING CENTER | Lakeside restaurants and cafés, surf shops, designer boutiques, a nine-hole putting green, a farmers’ market, a weekly Polynesian fire-knife show, and free morning petroglyph tours are just a few of the reasons to visit this conveniently located outdoor shopping center. Probably the best large center on the Kohala Coast, its roster of stores includes Martin & MacArthur, Tori Richard, and island jewelers Na Hoku, as well as high-end retailers Tiffany & Co. and Michael Kors. Gourmet offerings abound at A-Bay’s Island Grill, Foster’s Kitchen, and the more casual Island Fish & Chips. Shuttles run from the resorts to the center daily from noon to 8, although A-Bay’s stays open until midnight, a rarity on the coast. EWaikoloa Beach Resort, 250 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/339–7145 wwww.kingsshops.com.

Queens’ MarketPlace

SHOPPING CENTER | The largest shopping complex on the Kohala Coast houses fashionable clothing stores, jewelry boutiques, galleries, gift shops, and restaurants such as Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, Kuleana Rum Shack, and Romano’s Macaroni Grill. Island Gourmet Markets, Starbucks, and an affordable food court are other options. Waikoloa Luxury Cinemas offers the ultimate movie experience and includes a restaurant called Bistro at the Cinemas, which is a worth a stop even if you don’t hit a show with dinner. EWaikoloa Beach Resort, 201 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/886–8822 wwww.queensmarketplace.net.

Mauna Lani

8 miles north of Waikoloa.

Mauna Lani is known for its expensive resorts, but it’s so much more. In addition to soothing trade winds, black lava landscapes, and turquoise seas, the region offers numerous historical sites, including ancient fishponds, petroglyphs, and historical trails that invite lovers of history and culture to explore numerous spots along this stunning coast.

s Sights

Holoholokai Beach Park and Petroglyph Trail

TRAIL | While mostly rocky topography makes swimming and snorkeling a bit difficult here, this little park is still scenic and relaxing. Take the short trail over to the petroglyph trail; interpretive signs will guide you. There are showers, picnic tables, and restrooms; public parking is limited. EHoloholokai Beach Park Rd., Waimea (Hawaii County) jNear the end of N. Kaniku Dr. P808/657–3293 AFree.

r Restaurants

Binchotan Bar and Grill

$$ | ASIAN FUSION | In a sophisticated setting that includes open-air patio seating, this restaurant offers contemporary Asian dishes made with meats, prawns, peppers, and more grilled over an open flame in the traditional style. Blending locally sourced ingredients with Japanese and Hawaiian influences, Binchotan creates a menu that pays homage to multiple cultures. Known for: Robatayaki Experience (chef’s selection of grilled items); okonomiyaki (savory Japanese-style pancakes) featuring Kona lobster and macadamia nut shrimp; reservations strongly recommended. DAverage main: $28 EFairmont Orchid Hawaii, 1 N. Kaniku Dr., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–5778 wwww.fairmont.com CClosed Tues. and Wed. No lunch.

Brown’s Beach House at the Fairmont Orchid Hawaii

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Sitting right on the resort’s sandy Pauoa Bay, the Fairmont’s signature restaurant Brown’s Beach House offers beautiful sunset dining and innovative cuisine. Attention to detail is evident in the sophisticated menu, which may include crab-crusted Kona kampachi or other dishes with fresh fish, roasted duck breast, or Kona coffee–crusted venison, as well as local produce and ingredients. Known for: Dungeness crab and lobster tail; tiki torches and live Hawaiian music beneath starry skies; reservations highly recommended. DAverage main: $56 EFairmont Orchid Hawaii, 1 N. Kaniku Dr., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–2000 wwww.fairmont.com CNo lunch.

HCanoeHouse

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | One of the most romantic settings on the Kohala Coast, this landmark, oceanfront restaurant showcases traditional Hawaiian flavors, artful presentations, and locally grown or raised products. The progressive menu spotlights standout entrées such as roasted beef tenderloin, dry-rubbed New York Steak, Keahole lobster, fish caught locally, shellfish, island-fresh greens, and local goat cheese. Known for: memorable sunsets with tiki torches; customized dining program by the chef offered at the Captain’s Table; reservations essential far in advance. DAverage main: $56 EMauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection, 68-1400 Mauna Lani Dr., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–6622 waubergeresorts.com/maunalani CNo lunch.

HKnead & Bake

$ | PIZZA | This authentic little pizzeria with tables inside and outdoors might just make the best hand-tossed pizza on the Kohala Coast, if not the whole island. The New York–born owner does not scrimp and has even imported special pizza ovens and dough machines from New York, as well as Fontanini-brand ingredients, to give his pizzas that extra pizzazz. Known for: fresh local ingredients; innovative pizza toppings; good prices. DAverage main: $19 EShops at Mauna Lani, 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/731–4490 wkneadandbake.com.

Tommy Bahama Restaurant and Bar

$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | Upstairs at the Shops at Mauna Lani, this breezy, open-air restaurant offers an excellent roster of appetizers, including seared-scallop sliders and coconut-crusted crab cakes, as well as meat and fish mains and decadent desserts. The chef here has freedom to cook up his own daily specials, and the seared ahi is a standout. Known for: the chain’s reliable cuisine and relaxed vibe; popular cocktail bar and lounge; house-baked breads and specialty butters. DAverage main: $38 EThe Shops at Mauna Lani, 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., Suite 102, Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/881–8686 wwww.tommybahama.com.

h Hotels

HFairmont Orchid Hawaii

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | This first-rate resort overflows with tropical gardens, cascading waterfalls, a sandy beach cove, a meandering pool, a lagoon for the kids, and all the luxury amenities. Pros: oceanfront location; excellent pool; aloha hospitality. Cons: central pool can get very crowded; $48 resort fee; not the best beach among Kohala Coast resorts. DRooms from: $847 E1 N. Kaniku Dr., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–2000, 800/845–9905 wwww.fairmont.com a540 rooms XNo Meals.

HMauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection

$$$$ | RESORT | Popular with honeymooners and anniversary couples for decades, this elegant Kohala Coast classic is still one of the island’s most beautiful resorts, highlighted by a breathtaking, open-air lobby with cathedral-like ceilings, Zen-like koi ponds, and illuminated sheets of cascading water. Pros: beautiful design; award-winning spa; many Hawaiian cultural programs. Cons: no luau; limited dining selection on-site; $50 resort fee. DRooms from: $1,099 E68-1400 Mauna Lani Dr., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–6622, 808/657–3293 waubergeresorts.com/maunalani a338 rooms XNo Meals.

Mauna Lani Point and the Islands at Mauna Lani

$$$$ | RESORT | Surrounded by the emerald greens of a world-class oceanside golf course, the private, independent, luxury condominiums at Islands at Mauna Lani offer spacious two-story suites, while Mauna Lani Point’s villas are closer to the beach. Pros: friendly front desk; stellar views; extra-large units. Cons: quite pricey; individually owned units vary in decor and amenities; some units are a distance from the barbecue/pool area. DRooms from: $691 EMauna Lani Point, 68-1050 Mauna Lani Point Dr., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–5022, 800/642–6284 wwww.classicresorts.com a66 units XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

BARS

Luana Lounge

COCKTAIL BARS | The contemporary lounge in the Fairmont Orchid has a large terrace and an impressive water view. Serving signature sushi and classic rolls, the Luana is a favorite of locals too. Bartenders are skilled at mixology, and service is impeccable. The crowd is mellow, so it’s a nice place for an early evening cocktail or after-dinner liqueur. Happy hour is from 4 to 5 with all drinks discounted; live music begins at sunset and continues until 9. EFairmont Orchid Hawaii, 1 N. Kaniku Dr., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–2000 wwww.fairmont.com.

p Performing Arts

LUAU

Hawaiiloa Luau

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | Slickly produced and well choreographed, this gorgeous show incorporates both traditional and contemporary music and dance, along with an array of beautiful costumes. It tells the tale of Hawaiiloa, the great navigator from Tahiti, and of the celestial object—Hokulea, “Star of Gladness”—that guided him to the islands later named Hawaii. Presented under the stars at the Fairmont Orchid Hawaii on Saturdays, the luau offers several stations with a variety of Hawaiian and Hawaii Regional Cuisine dishes, and there’s an open full bar for mai tais and other tropical libations. EFairmont Orchid Hawaii, 1 N. Kaniku Dr., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–2000, 808/326–4969 wfairmont.com/orchid-hawaii A$189.

b Shopping

SHOPPING CENTERS

The Shops at Mauna Lani

SHOPPING CENTER | This pleasant complex offers Hawaiian and tropical apparel, a hair salon, and lots of dining choices. Pizza does not get better than at Knead & Bake, where you can dine in or order online for pickup. A small market lets you stock up on basics, and coffee, smoothie, and sandwich shops are still around, as well as a couple of nice surf shops, jewelry stores, and upscale clothing boutiques. Tommy Bahama Restaurant and Bar is especially favored by locals for a pau hana (after work) cocktail and pupu (appetizer). E68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–9501 wwww.shopsatmaunalani.com.

Mauna Kea and Hapuna

6 miles north of Mauna Lani.

Every visitor to the Big Island should put Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area on your itinerary, especially if you’re not staying at the Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, located beachfront. This glorious stretch of white-sand beauty will not fail to take your breath away, no matter what the season or time of day. Sheer enchantment also defines the luminous waters and curve of white sand at Kaunaoa, also called Mauna Kea Beach, but it’s more difficult to access due to the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel’s control of the parking area.

; Beaches

HHapuna Beach State Recreation Area

BEACH | FAMILY | One of Hawaii’s most breathtaking beaches, Hapuna is a ½-mile-long stretch of white perfection, with turquoise water that is calm in summer, so it’s good for kids, with just enough rolling waves to make bodysurfing and body boarding fun. Watch for the undertow; in winter it can be very rough. There is excellent snorkeling around the jagged rocks that border the beach on either side, but high surf brings strong currents. Known for awesome sunsets, this is one of the island’s best places to see the “green flash” as the sun dips below a clear horizon.

Parking is ample, although the lot can fill up by midday and the beach can get crowded on weekends and holidays. Plenty of picnic tables and lots of grass overlooking the beach offer shady respite on a hot day. Lifeguards are on duty during peak hours. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: sunset; surfing; swimming; walking. EHwy. 19 near mile marker 69, Mauna Kea jJust south of the Westin Hapuna Beach Resort P808/961–9544 wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks A$10 parking fee per vehicle.

HKaunaoa Beach (Mauna Kea Beach)

BEACH | FAMILY | Hands down one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, if not the whole state, Kaunaoa features a short crescent of pure white sand framed by coconut palms. The beach, which fronts the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, slopes very gradually, and there’s great snorkeling along the rocks. Classic Hawaii postcard views abound, especially in winter, when snow tops Maunakea to the east. When conditions permit, waves are good for body and board surfing also. Currents can be strong in winter, so be careful. Get a cocktail at the beach cabana and enjoy the sunset. lPublic parking is limited to a few spaces, so arrive before 10 am or after 4 pm. If the lot is full, head to nearby Hapuna Beach, where there’s a huge parking lot ($10 per vehicle). Try this spot again another day—it’s worth it! Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; sunset; swimming; walking. E62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr., Mauna Kea jEntry through gate to Mauna Kea Beach Hotel AFree.

r Restaurants

Hau Tree

$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Though it sits on a patio by the pool, this casual beachside restaurant and beach bar with gazebo is not just for pupus and cocktails. The island-infused dinner menu features excellent entrées, such as the Korean-style short ribs or the Kona Kanpachi Nicosia salad, plus plentiful seafood dishes and greens from local farms. Known for: famous Fredrico cocktail; great sunset views; reasonable prices for a resort restaurant. DAverage main: $27 EMauna Kea Beach Hotel, 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr., Mauna Kea P808/882–5707 wwww.maunakeabeachhotel.com.

HManta at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | Perched on the edge of a bluff overlooking the sparkling waters of Kaunaoa Beach, the resort’s flagship restaurant is a compelling spot for a romantic meal at sunset, especially at one of the outside tables. The culinary team’s take on Hawaii Regional Cuisine highlights locally sourced, sustainable fish, chicken, and beef. Known for: beachfront balcony dining; exhibition kitchen; Sunday brunch with prime rib, smoked salmon, and omelet station. DAverage main: $50 EMauna Kea Beach Hotel, 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr., Mauna Kea P808/882–5707 wwww.maunakeabeachhotel.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

HMeridia

$$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | This open-air restaurant at the Westin Hapuna Beach Resort has high ceilings and a lanai that overlooks the pool and the sandy-white shores of gorgeous Hapuna Beach. The focus is on the freshest seafood, and the small-plate appetizers and main course options also showcase a bounty of Big Island ingredients infused with Mediterranean influences. Known for: reservations essential; almond-crusted ahi; fantastic location (including for sunset viewing). DAverage main: $53 EThe Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, 62-100 Kaunaoa Dr., Mauna Kea P808/880–1111 wwww.meridiarestaurant.net CNo lunch.

h Hotels

Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Autograph Collection

$$$$ | RESORT | The grande dame of the Kohala Coast has long been regarded as one of the state’s premier vacation resort hotels, and it borders one of the world’s finest white-sand beaches, Kaunaoa. Pros: good dining options; premier tennis center; no resort fees. Cons: some oceanfront rooms are noisy; $35 daily valet parking fee; 27 miles from airport. DRooms from: $999 E62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr., Mauna Kea P808/882–7222, 866/977–4589 wwww.maunakeabeachhotel.com a252 rooms XNo Meals.

The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Known for its direct access to the Big Island’s largest white-sand beach, this massive hotel has enormous columns and a terraced, open-air lobby with a rotunda ceiling, curved staircases, and skylights. Pros: extra-large rooms, all ocean-facing; helpful staff; 18-hole championship golf course. Cons: fitness center a five-minute walk from the hotel; $35/day parking fee; 30 miles from Kailua-Kona. DRooms from: $766 E62-100 Kaunaoa Dr., Mauna Kea P808/880–1111, 866/774–6236 wwww.marriott.com a249 rooms XNo Meals.

p Performing Arts

LUAU

HMauna Kea Beach Luau

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | FAMILY | On the oceanfront North Side Luau Grounds, you can indulge in the best of island cuisine—a traditional feast of kalua (earth oven–baked) pig roasted in an imu (oven), island fish, lomi lomi salmon, and sashimi—while enjoying entertainment by renowned local performers. The luau, originally premiering in 1960 for Newsweek magazine and going strong ever since, includes an amazing fire-knife dance, spirited chanting, and traditional hula. Keiki (children) can learn the hukilau (a traditional song and dance), and you can relax right on the beach, under the stars. If you choose one luau during your visit to the Big Island, this should be the one, and it’s surprisingly affordable. lYou can elect to see only the show for a reasonable fee. EMauna Kea Beach Hotel, Autograph Collection, 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr. P808/882–5810, 808/882–7222 wwww.maunakeabeachhotel.com A$180, $130 show only.

Kawaihae

6 miles north of Hapuna.

This no-frills industrial harbor, where in 1793 the first cattle landed in Hawaii, is a hub of commercial and community activity. It’s also where King Kamehameha and his men launched their canoes when they set out to conquer the neighboring islands. Kawaihae is especially busy on weekends, when paddlers, surfers, tourist charters, and local fishing boats share the waters. Second in size only to Hilo Harbor, the port serves interisland cargo carriers and often shelters the Makalii, one of three traditional Hawaiian sailing canoes. Kawaihae Village has several restaurants with nice sunset views.

s Sights

HPuukohola Heiau National Historic Site

HISTORIC SIGHT | Quite simply, this is one of the most historic and commanding sites in all of Hawaii: here, in 1810, on top of Puukohola (Hill of the Whale), Kamehameha the Great built the war heiau, or temple, that would serve to unify the Hawaiian Islands, ending 500 years of warring chiefdoms. The oceanfront, fortresslike site is foreboding and impressive. A paved ½-mile looped trail runs from the visitor center to the main temple sites. An even older temple, dedicated to the shark gods, lies submerged just offshore, where sharks can be spotted swimming, usually first thing in the morning. A museum displays ancient Hawaiian weapons, including clubs, spears, a replica of a bronze cannon that warriors dragged into battle on a Hawaiian sled, and three original paintings by artist Herb Kane. This underrated park is often very uncrowded. Rangers are available to answer questions, or you can take a free audio tour on your smartphone. Plan about an hour to see everything. E62-3601 Kawaihae Rd., Kawaihae P808/882–7218 wwww.nps.gov/puhe AFree.

; Beaches

Spencer Park at Ohaiula Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Popular with local families because of its reef-protected waters, this white-sand beach is probably the safest beach in West Hawaii for young children. It’s also generally safe for swimming year-round, which makes it a reliable spot for a lazy day at the beach. There is a little shade, plus a volleyball court and pavilion, and the soft sand is perfect for sand castles. It tends to get crowded with families and campers on weekends, but the beach is mostly clean. You won’t see a lot of fish if you’re snorkeling here, but in winter you can often catch sight of a breaching whale or two. The beach park lies just below Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site. Amenities: lifeguards (weekends and holidays only); parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming. EHwy. 270, Kawaihae jToward Kawaihae Harbor, just after road forks from Hwy. 19 P808/961–8311 AFree.

r Restaurants

HSeafood Bar and Grill

$$ | SEAFOOD | Upstairs in a historical building, this seafood tiki bar has been a hot spot for years, known for a dynamite and well-priced bar menu with tasty pupus, signature seafood dishes such as the coconut shrimp and poke burger, and even a prime rib special on Tuesday. Don’t let the kitschy retro appearance fool you; this place is frequented by legacy celebrities whose names you know or whose records you’ve bought. Known for: funky tiki theme; seafood quesadilla; excellent service. DAverage main: $23 E61-3642 Kawaihae Harbor (Hwy. 270), Kawaihae P808/880–9393 wwww.seafoodbarandgrill.com CClosed Sat.

n Nightlife

HBlue Dragon Tavern and Cosmic Musiquarium

BARS | Across from the harbor in Kawaihae, you can dine and dance to live music under the stars and palms at this wildly popular tavern, with central uncovered atrium (offering a clue about how often it rains here—nearly never). The fare is of the burger, fish-and-chips, and fish taco variety and is decent in both price and quality. The grog offerings are super fun, with inventive cocktails such as the Dancing Dragon, an elixir with house-made sangria infused with peach and raspberry liqueurs and tropical juices. Sometimes the bands are great and sometimes not, but it’s so much fun to come here you really won’t mind. E61-3616 Kawaihae Rd., Kawaihae P808/882–7771 wwww.bluedragontavern.com.

b Shopping

GALLERIES

Harbor Gallery

ART GALLERY | Since 1990, this classy gallery has been enticing visitors with a vast collection of paintings and sculptures by more than 200 Big Island artists. There are also antique maps and prints, wooden bowls, paddles, koa furniture, jewelry, and glasswork. The shop hosts two annual wood shows and actively supports the local arts community. EKawaihae Harbor Shopping Center, 61-3665 Akoni Pule Hwy., Kawaihae P808/882–1510 wwww.harborgallery.biz.

SHOPPING CENTERS

Kawaihae Harbor Shopping Center

SHOPPING CENTER | This almost-oceanfront shopping plaza houses the exquisite Harbor Gallery, which represents many Big Island artists. Try the Big Island–made ice cream and shave ice (the best in North Hawaii) at local favorite Anuenue. Also here are Kohala Burger and Taco, Mountain Gold Jewelers, and Kohala Divers. E61-3665 Akoni Pule Hwy., Kawaihae.

Hawi and Kapaau

18 miles north of Kawaihae.

These North Kohala towns have an interesting history, and today they are full of lovingly restored vintage buildings housing fun and funky shops and galleries, as well as eateries worth a stop for a quick bite. Near the birthplace of King Kamehameha, the towns thrived during the plantation days, once bustling with hotels, saloons, and theaters—even a railroad. They took a hit when “Big Sugar” left the island, but both are blossoming again, thanks to strong local communities, tourism, athletic events, and an influx of artists keen on honoring the towns’ past. Hawi is internationally known as the turnaround point for the cycling portion of the Ironman World Championship triathlon event.

s Sights

Keokea Beach Park

CITY PARK | A pavilion welcomes visitors to this 7-acre county beach park fronting the rugged shore in North Kohala. This is a popular local spot for picnics, fishing, and surfing. You’re likely to spot some sea life from shore as well. It’s a nice rest stop on your way to Pololu Valley. lEnjoy the scenery, but don’t try to swim here—the water is very rough. Be careful on the hairpin curve going down. EHwy. 270, Kapaau jOn the way to Pololu Valley, near mile marker 27 AFree.

Lapakahi State Historical Park

HISTORIC SIGHT | A self-guided, 1-mile walking tour leads through the ruins of the once-prosperous fishing village of Koaie, which dates as far back as the 15th century. Displays illustrate early Hawaiian fishing and farming techniques, salt gathering, games, and legends. Because the shoreline near the state park is an officially designated Marine Life Conservation District (and part of the site itself is considered sacred), swimming is not allowed nor are swim gear or sunscreen. Portable restrooms are available but not drinking water. lGates close promptly at 4 pm, and they mean business! EHwy. 270 at mile marker 14, between Kawaihae and Mahukona, Kapaau P808/327–4958 wwww.hawaiistateparks.org AFree.

Mookini Heiau

HISTORIC SIGHT | Dating from as early as AD 480, this parallelogram-shaped structure is a stunning example of a luakini heiau, used for ritualized human sacrifice to the Hawaiian war god Ku. The isolated National Historic Landmark within Kohala Historical Sites State Monument is so impressive in size and atmosphere that it’s guaranteed to give you what locals call “chicken skin” (goose bumps). The place feels haunted, and even more so if you are the only visitor and the skies are dark and foreboding. Visit with utmost care and respect. Nearby is Kapakai Royal Housing Complex, the birthplace of Kamehameha the Great. Although it is now under the care of the National Park Service, family descendants still watch over the site. lDon’t drive out here if it’s been raining; even with a four-wheel drive, you could easily get stuck. ECoral Reef Pl./Upolu Point Rd., off Upolu Airport Rd. and Hwy. 270 (Akoni Pule Hwy.), Hawi jTurn at sign for Upolu Airport, near Hawi, and hike or drive 1½ miles southwest P808/961–9540 wwww.nps.gov AFree CClosed Wed.

; Beaches

Pololu Valley Beach

BEACH | At the tip of North Kohala, this is one of the Big Island’s most scenic beaches. Rain and erosion over millennia have created a stunning, deep-cut windward valley with a windswept gray-sand beach that is piled with large, round boulders and driftwood and backed by ironwood trees and sheer green cliffs. The trail is steep and rocky; it can also be muddy and slippery, so use caution. A Pololu Trail Steward program stations local “stewards” at the trailhead to share historical and cultural perspectives of the valley. Please visit with respect for the land and for all area residents. This is not a safe swimming beach even though locals swim, body board, and surf here. Rip currents and usually rough surf pose a real hazard. Because this is an isolated area far from emergency help, extreme caution is advised. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude. EHwy. 270 at end of road, Kapaau AFree.

r Restaurants

Bamboo Restaurant and Gallery

$$ | HAWAIIAN | In the heart of Hawi, this popular restaurant provides a historical setting in which to enjoy a menu brimming with Hawaiian country flair. Most of the entrées feature fish and chicken prepared several ways, although if the kitchen gets busy, you might get a mediocre plate. Known for: fresh catch with ginger, cilantro, and peanuts; passion fruit margaritas; weekend entertainment. DAverage main: $25 E55-3415 Akoni Pule Hwy., Hawi P808/889–5555 wwww.bamboorestauranthawaii.com CClosed Mon. No dinner Sun.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Kohala Coffee Mill and Tropical Dreams

$ | CAFÉ | If you’re looking for something sweet—or savory—this busy café in downtown Hawi serves breakfast (bagels, espresso machine–steamed eggs), and lunch (hot dogs, burgers, chili, salads) until 6. Sit outside and watch the world go by as you enjoy locally made ice cream that is ono (delicious), as well as other sweet treat specialties. Known for: vegan soup; sometimes crowded; outstanding local coffee. DAverage main: $6 E55-3412 Akoni Pule Hwy., Hawi P808/889–5577 CNo dinner.

h Hotels

HHawaii Island Retreat at Ahu Pohaku Hoomaluhia

$$$$ | B&B/INN | Here, above the sea cliffs in North Kohala, sustainability meets luxury without sacrificing comfort: the resort generates its own solar and wind-turbine power, harnesses its own water, and grows much of its own food. Pros: stunning location; emphasis on organic food; affordable yurts are one lodging option. Cons: somewhat isolated and not within walking distance of restaurants; yurts don’t have in-unit showers; four-night minimum. DRooms from: $425 E250 Maluhia Rd., Kapaau jOff Hwy. 270 in Hawi P808/889–6336 wwww.hawaiiislandretreat.com a20 rooms XFree Breakfast.

HPuakea Ranch

$$$ | HOUSE | FAMILY | Four beautifully restored ranch houses and bungalows occupy this historic country estate in Hawi, where guests enjoy their own private swimming pools, horseback riding, round-the-clock concierge availability, and plenty of fresh fruit from the orchards. Pros: charmingly decorated; washer and dryer in each house; private swimming pools. Cons: 15 minutes to the beach; spotty cell-phone coverage; sometimes windy. DRooms from: $359 E56-2864 Akoni Pule Hwy., Hawi P808/315–0805 wwww.puakearanch.com a4 houses XNo Meals.

b Shopping

ARTS AND CRAFTS

Elements Jewelry and Fine Crafts

CRAFTS | The tiny shop carries lots of original jewelry handmade by local artists, as well as carefully chosen gifts including unusual ceramics, paintings, prints, glass items, baskets, fabrics, bags, and toys. Look for their 100% cotton pareau (sarongs) designed in Hawaii. E55-3413 Akoni Pule Hwy., Hawi jNext to Bamboo Restaurant P808/889–0760 wwww.elementsjewelryandcrafts.com.

CLOTHING AND SHOES

HAs Hawi Turns

CLOTHING | Housed in the 1932 Toyama Building, this landmark North Kohala shop stocks sophisticated women’s resort wear made of hand-painted silk or high-quality cotton in tropical designs by local artists. There are also plentiful vintage treasures, jewelry, gifts, hats, bags, and toys, plus handmade ukuleles by local luthier David Gomes. E55-3412 Akoni Pule Hwy., Hawi P808/889–5023.

GALLERIES

Ackerman Galleries

ART GALLERY | This small, family-owned gallery features fine art, glass, jewelry, aloha wear, and island souvenirs. E3897 Akoni Pule Hwy., Kapaau P808/889–5138 wwww.ackermangalleries.com.

Rankin Gallery

ART GALLERY | Watercolorist and oil painter Patrick Louis Rankin showcases his own work at his shop in a restored plantation store next to the bright-green Chinese community and social hall. The building sits right at a curve in the road on the way to Pololu Valley, at the first gulch past Kapaau. E53-4380 Akoni Pule Hwy., Kapaau P808/889–6849 wwww.patricklouisrankin.net.

Waimea

10 miles east of the Kohala Coast, 23 miles southeast of Kapaau, 40 miles northeast of Kailua-Kona.

Thirty minutes over the mountain from Kohala, Waimea (sometimes called “Kamuela” to distinguish it from the similarly named places on Kauai and Oahu) offers a completely different experience from the rest of the island. Rolling green hills, large open pastures, light rain, cool evening breezes, and morning mists, along with abundant cattle, horses, and regular rodeos, are just a few of the surprises you’ll stumble upon here in paniolo (cowboy) country. Parker Ranch, one of the largest privately held cattle ranches in the United States, surrounds this attractive little town.

Waimea is also where some of the island’s top Hawaii Regional Cuisine chefs practice their art using local ingredients, which makes it an ideal place to find yourself at dinnertime. In keeping with the restaurant trend toward featuring local farm-to-table ingredients, a handful of Waimea farms and ranches supply most of the restaurants on the island, and many sell to the public as well. With its galleries, coffee shops, brewpubs, restaurants, beautiful countryside, and paniolo culture, Waimea is well worth a stop if you’re heading to Hilo or Maunakea. lThe short highway, or mountain road, that connects Waimea to North Kohala (Highway 250) affords some of our favorite Big Island views.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

From the Kohala Coast, it’s a reasonable drive to Waimea. From the Mauna Kea and Hapuna resorts, it’s about 12 miles; from the Waikoloa resorts, it’s about 19 miles via Waikoloa Road. You can see most of what Waimea has to offer in one day, but if you’re heading up to Maunakea for stargazing—which you should—it could easily be stretched to two. If you stay in Waimea overnight (there are many B&B options), spend the afternoon browsing through town or touring some of the area’s ranches and historic sites, and then indulging in a delicious meal.

s Sights

HAnna Ranch Heritage Center

HISTORIC SIGHT | On the National and State Registers of Historic Places, this stunning heritage property belonged to the “first lady” of Hawaii ranching, Anna Lindsey Perry-Fiske, and now provides a rare opportunity to see a fully restored cattle ranch compound and learn about the life of this fascinating woman. She rounded up and butchered cattle by day and threw lavish parties by night. Wander the picturesque grounds and gardens on a self-guided walk, watch a master saddlemaker and an ironsmith in action, and take a guided tour (by appointment only) of the historic house, where Anna’s furniture, gowns, and elaborate pau (parade riding) costumes are on display. The knowledgeable staff shares anecdotes about Anna’s life. (Some staff and visitors have even reported strange goings-on in the main house, suggesting that Anna may still be “hanging around.”) E65-1480 Kawaihae Rd., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–4426 wwww.annaranch.org AGrounds and Discovery Trail free, historic home tours $10 CClosed Sat.–Mon.

Kohala Mountain Road Lookout

VIEWPOINT | The road between North Kohala and Waimea is one of the most scenic drives in Hawaii, passing Parker Ranch, open pastures, rolling hills, quaint homesteads, and tree-lined mountains. There are a few places to pull over and take in the view; the lookout at mile marker 8 provides a splendid vista of the Kohala Coast and Kawaihae Harbor far below. On clear days, you can see well beyond the resorts to Maui, while at other times an eerie mist drifts over the view. EKohala Mountain Rd. (Hwy. 250), Waimea (Hawaii County).

HParker Ranch

FARM/RANCH | Exceeding 130,000 acres and regularly running tens of thousands of head of cattle, Parker Ranch is an impressive and compelling backdrop for the scenic town of Waimea. It was established in 1847 by a sailor from Massachusetts, John Palmer Parker, who was permitted by the Hawaiian ruler King Kamehameha I to cull vast herds of out-of-control cattle; thus, the ranch was born. It later grew into the empire it is today, and the foundation started by Parker’s descendants supports community health care, the arts, and education, as well as a commitment to sustainability. In addition to taking self-guided tours of two of the ranch’s historic homes—Hale Mana and Puuopelu—you can also visit Parker Ranch Center, the town’s largest shopping and restaurant complex. The Round Up club, founded by Parker Ranch employees, holds rodeos year round. E66-1304 Mamalahoa Hwy., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–7311 wparkerranch.com A$20 CClosed Sat. and Sun.

Big Island Farm Tours s

As local ingredients continue to play a more prominent role on Big Island menus, chefs and farmers are working together to support a burgeoning agritourism industry in Hawaii. Several local farms make specialty items that cater to the island’s gourmet restaurants. The Hawaii Island Goat Dairy (whawaiiislandgoatdairy.com) on the Hamakua Coast produces specialty cheese; Big Island Bees (wbigislandbees.com) boasts its own beekeeping museum and tasting room at Kealakekua Bay; and Hamakua Mushrooms (whamakuamushrooms.com) has turned harvested koa forests into a safe haven for gourmet mushrooms.

Many farms—like Greenwell Farms (wgreenwellfarms.com), which produces 100% organic Kona coffee, and Hawaiian Vanilla Company (whawaiianvanilla.com), which is cultivating vanilla from orchids on the Hamakua Coast—are open to the public and offer free tours. And don’t forget the chocolate: take a tour of the farm and cacao orchards at Honokaa Chocolate Company (whonokaachocolateco.com).

r Restaurants

Big Island Brewhaus

$ | AMERICAN | A hands-down island favorite, this casual brewpub from owner and veteran brewmaster Tom Kerns churns out premium ales, lagers, and specialty beers from his on-site brewery in Waimea. With a focus on fresh ingredients, the brewpub’s menu includes falafels, burgers, poke, fish tacos, burritos, and quesadillas fresh to order. Known for: coconut-infused White Mountain porter; affordable sampler with six beer choices; amazing grass-fed burgers. DAverage main: $12 E64-1066A Mamalahoa Hwy., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/887–1717 wwww.bigislandbrewhaus.com.

The Fish and the Hog

$ | ECLECTIC | This casual little restaurant along the highway serves up generous sandwiches, salads, and melt-in-your-mouth barbecue items. Because the owners are fisherpeople, the poke and nightly specials showcase fish caught from their boat. Known for: enormous, puffy onion rings; kiawe-smoked pulled pork, ribs, pork ribs, and brisket; yummy banana cream pie. DAverage main: $15 E64-957 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11), Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–6268 wfishandthehog.com.

Merriman’s

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | The signature restaurant of Peter Merriman, one of the pioneers of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, is the home of the original wok-charred ahi: it’s seared on the outside, leaving sashimi on the inside. Although lunch prices are reasonable, dinner is “resort pricey,” so prepare to splurge; there’s also a reasonable prix fixe option. Known for: grilled-to-order New York steak; locally raised Kahua Ranch braised lamb; reservations essential. DAverage main: $45 EOpelo Plaza, 65-1227 Opelo Rd., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–6822 wwww.merrimanshawaii.com.

MOA Kitchen

$ | JAPANESE | Just like an authentic Japanese izakaya (bar/restaurant), this hip little place serves yakatori (skewered chicken) grilled on a binchotan (grill) that the restaurant owners imported from Japan. Ramen is served with a variety of broths—regular shoyu, spicy, and vegetarian. Known for: uni nigiri; Hawaiian spicy ramen; island-grown ingredients. DAverage main: $12 E65-1298 Kawaihae Rd., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/339–7887 CClosed Mon. No lunch Sun.

Pau Pizza & Provisions

$ | ITALIAN | FAMILY | Its name is Hawaiian for “done,” perhaps an allusion to how eagerly the pizzas are gobbled up at this eatery with cool artwork and a relaxed vibe. On offer is a wide selection of appetizers, salads, sandwiches, pastas, and pizzas loaded with lots of local ingredients. Known for: popular build-your-own-pizza option; superfood salad with quinoa and brown rice; triple slice lunch special. DAverage main: $12 E65-1227 Opelo Rd., Waimea (Hawaii County) jNear Merriman’s P808/885–6325 wwww.paupizza.com.

Red Water Café

$$$ | ECLECTIC | FAMILY | Chef David Abrahams serves upscale café fare with a twist and a side of aloha. Although it opens fairly early (at 2 pm Tuesday–Friday, noon on Saturday), there’s only a single, all-day menu, and this place is busy, so reserve ahead. Known for: worthy saketini (sake martini); Kansas City rib-eye steak, Berkshire pork chops, and short ribs; sushi menu. DAverage main: $36 E65-1299 Kawaihae Rd., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–9299 wwww.redwatercafe.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch weekdays.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Village Burger

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | At this little eatery that brings a whole new meaning to gourmet hamburgers, locally raised, grass-fed, hormone-free beef is ground fresh, hand-shaped daily on-site, and grilled to perfection right before your eyes. Top your burger (be it ahi, veal, Kahua Ranch Wagyu beef, Hamakua mushroom, or Waipio taro) with everything from local avocados, baby greens, and chipotle goat cheese to tomato marmalade. Known for: brioche buns baked fresh in nearby Hawi; order online for quicker service; ice cream for milkshakes made fresh in Waimea. DAverage main: $12 EParker Ranch Center, 67-1185 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11), Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–7319 wwww.villageburgerwaimea.com.

h Hotels

Kamuela Inn

$$$ | HOTEL | With a prime location in the center of Waimea, this newly renovated boutique inn offers beautiful accommodations that feature Hawaiian-style bed linens and paniolo (cowboy) art, along with polished, upgraded decor such as barn doors, high-definition TVs, granite countertops, and rainfall showerheads. Pros: kitchenettes in some rooms; beautiful decor; good value for the price. Cons: sometimes noisy; no elevator; rooms on the smaller side. DRooms from: $329 E65-1300 Kawaihae Rd., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–4243 wthekamuelainn.com a17 suites XFree Breakfast.

Waimea Country Lodge

$ | HOTEL | In the heart of cowboy country, this quaint ranch house–style lodge offers views of the green, rolling slopes of Waimea and a distant view of Maunakea. Pros: large rooms; kitchenettes in some rooms; free coffee in morning. Cons: not near the beach; no pool; no on-site restaurant. DRooms from: $159 E65-1210 Lindsey Rd., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–4100, 800/367–5004 wwww.waimeacountrylodge.com a22 rooms XNo Meals.

Waimea Gardens Cottage

$$ | HOUSE | Surprisingly luxe yet cozy and quaint, the three charming country cottages and one suite at this historical Hawaiian homestead are surrounded by flowering private gardens and a backyard stream. Pros: charming, self-contained units; lush, bird-filled grounds; kitchens include food for breakfast. Cons: 50% deposit within two weeks of booking and payment in full six weeks before arrival; only personal or bank checks accepted; three-night minimum stay. DRooms from: $205 EWaimea (Hawaii County) jLocated off Kawaihae Rd., 2 miles from Waimea Town P808/885–8550 wwww.waimeagardens.com cNo credit cards a4 units XFree Breakfast.

p Performing Arts

THEATER

HKahilu Theatre

PERFORMANCE VENUES | The intimate theater regularly hosts internationally acclaimed performers such as Mikhail Baryshnikov and renowned Hawaiian artists such as Jake Shimabukuro, Kealii Reichel, and the Brothers Cazimero. They share the calendar with regional and national modern-dance troupes, community theater and dance groups, ukulele festivals, and classical music performances. The theater also supports the community by welcoming local artists to exhibit in its lobby, which doubles as a gallery. EParker Ranch Center, 67-1185 Mamalahoa Hwy., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–6868 wkahilutheatre.org.

b Shopping

FOOD AND WINE

Kamuela Liquor Store

WINE/SPIRITS | From its plain name and exterior, this store doesn’t look like much, but it sells the best selection of premium spirits, wines, and gourmet items on the island. Alvin, the owner, is a collector of fine wines, as evidenced by his multiple cellars. Wine tastings take place Friday afternoon from 3 to 6 and Saturday at noon. E64-1010 Mamalahoa Hwy., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–4674.

HWaimea General Store

GENERAL STORE | Since 1970, this Waimea landmark at Parker Square has been a favorite of locals and visitors alike. Although specialty kitchenware takes center stage, the shop brims with local gourmet items, books, kimonos, and Hawaiian gifts and souvenirs. EParker Square, 65-1279 Kawaihae Rd., Suite 112, Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–4479 wwww.waimeageneralstore.com.

GALLERIES

HGallery of Great Things

ART GALLERY | You might lose yourself exploring the trove of fine art and collectibles in every price range at this gallery, which represents hundreds of local artists and has a low-key, unhurried atmosphere. The “things” include hand-stitched quilts, ceramic sculptures, vintage kimonos, original paintings, koa-wood bowls and furniture, etched glassware, Niihau shell lei, and feather art by local artist Beth McCormick. Paintings by such beloved artists as impressionist William Wingert are among the offerings. EParker Square, 65-1279 Kawaihae Rd. P808/885–7706 wwww.galleryofgreatthingshawaii.com.

SHOPPING CENTERS

Parker Ranch Center

SHOPPING CENTER | With a welcoming, ranch-style motif, this shopping hub includes a large supermarket, some fun food court eateries, gift shops, and clothing boutiques. During the holidays, they install a very large Christmas tree and garlands by their classic stone fireplace, great for photos. E67-1185 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11), Waimea (Hawaii County) wparkerranchcenter.com.

Parker Square

SHOPPING CENTER | Although the Gallery of Great Things, known for art and collectibles, is this shopping center’s star attraction, it’s also worth looking into the Waimea General Store; Sweet Wind, for books, chimes, and beads; Bentley’s, which sells locally crafted and imported home decor and gifts; and Hula Moon, for upscale women’s fashions. Waimea Coffee Company satisfies with salads, sandwiches, and Kona coffee. E65-1279 Kawaihae Rd., Waimea (Hawaii County).

The Hamakua Coast

The spectacular waterfalls, jungles, emerald slopes, and ocean vistas along Highway 19 northwest of Hilo are referred to as the Hilo–Hamakua Heritage Coast. Brown road signs featuring a sugarcane tassel reflect the area’s history: thousands of former acres of sugarcane sat idle after “King Sugar” left the island in the early 1990s, but today diversified agriculture is growing.

This is a great place to wander off the main road and see “real” Hawaii—untouched valleys, overgrown banyan trees, tiny coastal villages, and little plantation towns such as Honomu, Laupahoehoe, and Honokaa. Some small communities are still hanging on quite nicely after the demise of the big sugar plantations that first engendered them. The towns have homey cafés, gift shops, galleries, and a way of life from a time gone by. Plenty of farmers here use premium agricultural lands serviced by former cane roads and the restored and repaired Hamakua Ditch, growing crops such as Hamakua mushrooms, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, vanilla, coffee, and lettuce.

The dramatic Akaka Falls is only one of the area’s hundreds of waterfalls, many of which tumble into a series of cascading pools. The falls may expand or retract depending on inclement weather. The pristine Waipio Valley was once a favorite getaway spot for Hawaiian royalty. Residents of the isolated valley floor have maintained the ways of old Hawaii, with taro patches, wild horses, and a handful of homes. The view from the lookout is breathtaking.

Before you head out to the coast, consider taking a side trip to Maunakea, the tallest peak in the Hawaiian Islands and home to 11 powerful telescopes that are co-managed by a consortium of nations, universities, and researchers. You can go with a licensed guide to the summit (recommended) or just drive up to the visitor center at 9,200 feet to peruse exhibits and check out the stars above for yourself.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Most visitors to the Hamakua Coast fly into Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport on the west side, which is about 1¼ hours away.

A car is by far the best and most efficient way to see the Hamakua Coast. You will want the freedom to leisurely stop off at various lookouts to take in the scenery or pause in a little town to grab a snack or lunch.

TOURS

A guided tour from a locally owned and operated company is one of the best (and easiest) ways to see Waipio Valley. You can walk down and up the steep, narrow road yourself, but you need to be in good shape and you may not see as much. And as locals say, it’s 15 minutes to walk down but about 45 minutes to walk back up. The cost for a tour depends on both the company and the transport mode.

Waipio Naalapa Stables

GUIDED TOURS | Friendly horses and friendly guides take guests on tours of the valley floor, where they are treated to unforgettable sights of taro fields, waterfalls, lush trails, and freshwater streams. The 2½-hour tours run Monday through Saturday (the valley rests on Sunday), with check-in times of 9 and 12:30. Riders meet at Waipio Valley Artworks, near the lookout, where they are transported to the valley floor in a four-wheel-drive van. EWaipio Valley Artworks Bldg., 48-5416 Kukuihaele Rd., Kukuihaele P808/775–0419 wwww.naalapastables.com AFrom $115.

Waipio on Horseback

GUIDED TOURS | On guided, 2½-hour horseback-riding tours on the Waipio Valley floor, riders experience lush tropical foliage, curving rivers, flowering trees, a scenic beach, tranquil streams, and 2,000-foot-tall cliff walls. Local paniolo (cowboy) guides share the history, culture, and mythology of this magical valley and give you a peek into a traditional family farm where the owners tend Hawaiian staples such as taro. You’ll also get to see the stunning Naalapa Falls. EHwy. 240 at mile marker 7.5, Honokaa jNorthwest of Honokaa P808/775–7291 wwww.waipioonhorseback.com AFrom $150.

Waipio Valley Shuttle

GUIDED TOURS | Not up for hiking in and out of the valley on foot? Informative and affordable, these 1½- to 2-hour, four-wheel-drive tours do the driving for you, exploring the valley with lots of stops Monday through Saturday. The windows on the van are removed, allowing you to snap unobstructed photos. You have the option to stay at the beach for two to four hours and come back up with the next tour. E48-5416 Kukuihaele Rd., Kukuihaele P808/775–7121 wwww.waipiovalleyshuttle.com AFrom $65.

Waipio Valley

24 miles east and then north of Waimea.

Bounded by 2,000-foot cliffs, the “Valley of the Kings” was once a favorite retreat of Hawaiian royalty, and it remains one of the most picturesque spots in all of Hawaii. Waterfalls drop thousands of feet from the North Kohala watershed to the Waipio Valley floor. The lush valley is breathtaking in every way and from every vantage, with tropical foliage, abundant flowers, wild horses, misty pastures, curving rivers, stands of ironwood trees, and a wide, gray, boulder-strewn shore. Though almost completely off the grid today, Waipio (the word means “curved water”) was once a center of Hawaiian life. Somewhere between 4,000 and 20,000 people made it their home between the 13th and 17th centuries. In addition, this highly historic and culturally significant area housed heiau (temples) and puuhonua (places of refuge) in addition to royal residences. King Kamehameha the Great launched a great naval battle from here, which marked the start of his unification of (some would say conquest) and reign over the Hawaiian Islands. To preserve this pristine part of the island, commercial transportation permits are limited—only a few outfitters offer organized valley floor trips.

Area landowners do not look kindly on public trespassing to access Hiilawe Falls at the back of the valley, so stick to the front by the beach. Hike all the way to the end of the beach for a glorious vantage point. Swimming (for experienced swimmers only), surfing, and picnics are all popular here, conditions permitting; exercise caution. You can also take the King’s Trail from the end of the beach to access another waterfall not far down the trail. Keep in mind that waterfalls can come and go depending on the level of recent rains. If you do visit here, kindly respect this area, as it is considered highly sacred to Hawaiians and is still home to several hundred full-time residents who cultivate taro on family farms.

s Sights

HWaipio Valley Lookout

VIEWPOINT | An easily accessible access point to see the beauty of the Waipio Valley, this lookout offers a stunning view of the valley and the high cliffs that surround it. Not surprisingly, it’s a popular spot, but there’s plenty of parking to handle the cars on most days; Hawaii County maintains the park at the top. A treacherous paved road leads down from the Waipio Valley Lookout, but no car rental companies on the island allow their cars to be driven down. Please don’t try, even if you rented a four-wheel drive. You can walk it, and you should if you can. The distance is actually less than a mile from the lookout point—just keep in mind that the climb back gains 1,000 feet in elevation and is highly strenuous, so bring water and a walking stick. Your best bet for seeing the wonders of the valley floor is with a guided four-wheel-drive tour such as the Waipio Valley Shuttle. lDue to repair work, Waipio Valley Road going down to the valley was closed at the time of writing for all but essential uses. Check ahead and confirm with outfitters. EHwy. 240, 8 miles west of Honokaa, Kukuihaele AFree.

b Shopping

ART GALLERIES

Waipio Valley Artworks

ART GALLERY | In a vintage home, this quaint gallery showcases finely crafted wooden bowls, koa furniture, paintings, and jewelry—all made by local artists. There’s also a great little café where you can pick up a sandwich or house-made ice cream before descending into Waipio Valley. E48-5416 Kukuihaele Rd., Kukuihaele P808/775–0958.

Honokaa

8 miles east of Waipio Valley Lookout, 15 miles northeast of Waimea.

Cool antiques shops, a few interesting galleries, funky gift shops, and cozy cafés abound in this quaint, cliff-top village fronting the ocean. It was built in the 1920s and 1930s by Japanese and Chinese workers who quit the nearby plantations to start businesses that supported the sugar economy. The intact historical character of the buildings with a Western vibe, bucolic setting, and friendliness of the merchants provide a nice reason to stop and stroll. There’s even a vintage theater that often showcases first-rate entertainment. Most restaurants close by 8 pm.

s Sights

HKalopa State Recreation Area

STATE/PROVINCIAL PARK | FAMILY | Northwest of the old plantation town of Paauilo, at a cool elevation of 2,000 feet, lies this sweet 100-acre state park with a lush forested area with picnic tables and restrooms. There’s an easy 0.7-mile loop trail with additional paths in the adjacent forest reserve. Small signs identify some of the plants, including the Gothic-looking native ohia and the rare loulu palm. It’s chilly and damp here, making it a good escape from the heat at sea level. Three campground areas with full-service kitchens, as well as four cabins, can be reserved online. E44-3375 Kalopa Mauka Rd., Honokaa j12 miles north of Laupahoehoe and 3 miles inland off Hwy. 19 P808/775–8852 wdlnr.hawaii.gov AFree.

r Restaurants

HCafe il Mondo

$ | ITALIAN | Unquestionably the fanciest spot in Honokaa, this cozy Italian bistro known for its pizza and other options feels like you’ve taken a step into Florence. Wood details, a full bar, travertine finishes, warm woods, antique furnishings, pendant lighting, and a fantastic stone pizza oven combine to create a thoroughly welcoming atmosphere. Known for: variety of house-made calzones; pasta primavera; Paauilo penne. DAverage main: $15 E3580 Mamane St., Honokaa P808/775–7711 wwww.facebook.com/p/Cafe-il-Mondo-100030921806845.

Coffee and Quick Bites

HTex Drive-In

$ | DINER | A local institution and icon, this casual place is famous for its malasadas, the puffy, doughy, deep-fried Portuguese doughnuts without a hole, best eaten hot; there are also vanilla, chocolate, and coconut cream-filled versions. For more than a snack, go for the Hawaiian burger, with a fat, juicy slice of sweet pineapple on top; the overstuffed burrito; or some decent house-made pizza. Known for: the island’s best malasadas; food cooked to order; long waits. DAverage main: $6 E45-690 Pakalana St., at Hwy. 19, Honokaa P808/775–0598 wwww.texdriveinhawaii.com.

h Hotels

Waipio Wayside B&B

$ | B&B/INN | Nestled amid the avocado, mango, coffee, and kukui trees of a historical plantation estate (circa 1932), this serene home provides a retreat close to the Waipio Valley. Pros: ocean views from many of the rooms; gracious owner; full breakfast served in the dining room. Cons: remote location; close quarters; no lunch or dinner on property. DRooms from: $165 E42-4226 Waipio Rd. (Hwy. 240), Honokaa P808/775–0275 wwww.waipiowayside.com a5 rooms XFree Breakfast.

Honomu

12 miles southeast of Laupahoehoe.

Bordering Akaka Falls State Park, this tiny town did not die when sugar did, and its sugar-plantation past is reflected in its wooden boardwalks and metal-roofed buildings. You can check out homemade baked goods, have an espresso, or browse the local art at one of the fine galleries. It’s also fun to wander through some old, dusty shops filled with little treasures such as antique bottles.

s Sights

HAkaka Falls State Park

WATERFALL | A paved, 10-minute loop trail (approximately ½ mile) takes you to the best spots to see the spectacular cascades of Akaka, including the majestic upper Akaka Falls, which drops more than 442 feet. It tumbles far below into a pool drained by Kolekole Stream amid a profusion of fragrant white, yellow, and red torch ginger and other tropical foliage. Another 400-foot falls is on the lower end of the trail. Restroom facilities are available but no drinking water. The park is 4 miles inland, and vehicle parking closes at 6. Visitors are encouraged to reserve parking online in advance at this popular spot. lA series of steps along parts of the trail may prove challenging for some visitors, and they are not wheelchair accessible. E875 Akaka Falls Rd., Honomu jAt the end of Akaka Falls Rd. (Hwy. 220) P808/974–6200 wdlnr.hawaii.gov A$5 per vehicle; parking $10.

Coffee and Quick Bites

What’s Shakin’

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | A cute vintage shack, painted a cheery yellow, is home to the best smoothies and shakes on the Hamakua Coast. Order at the counter and take away, or sit awhile under the canopy while you indulge in a Mango Tango, Lava Java, Bananarama, or any of about 15 selections of creative smoothies; you can pair it with tasty turkey, fish, or chicken roll-ups and other wraps. Known for: healthy vegetarian and vegan wraps; smoothies made from fruit grown on location; one of the few places to stop on the way to Honokaa. DAverage main: $10 E27-999 Old Mamalahoa Hwy., Pepeekeo P808/964–3080 wwhatsshakinbigisland.com CNo dinner.

b Shopping

ARTS AND CRAFTS

Glass from the Past

ANTIQUES & COLLECTIBLES | A fun place to shop for a quirky gift or just to browse before or after a visit to Akaka Falls, the store is chock-full of old Hawaii bottles, antiques, vintage clothing, Japanese collectibles, and interesting ephemera. A super-friendly owner loves to engage with customers. There’s often even a “free” table out front to add to the discovery. E28-1672 Old Mamalahoa Hwy., Honomu P808/963–6449.

Maunakea

Maunakea’s summit is 18 miles southeast of Waimea and 34 miles northwest of Hilo.

Maunakea (“white mountain”), a major attraction for stargazers, offers the antithesis of the typical tropical island experience: freezing temperatures and arctic conditions are common at the summit, and snow can fall year-round. You can even snowboard or ski up here, though you should be in very good shape and a close-to-expert boarder or skier to get down the slopes near the summit and then up again in the thin air—with no lifts.

Winter sports, however, are the least of the reasons that most people visit this starkly beautiful mountain, a dormant volcano. From its base below the ocean’s surface to its summit, Maunakea is the tallest island mountain on the planet. It’s also home to little Lake Waiau, one of the highest natural lakes in the world.

Maunakea’s summit—at 13,796 feet—is the world’s best place for viewing the night sky. For this reason, the summit is home to the largest and most productive astronomical observatories in the world—and $1 billion worth of equipment. Research teams from 11 different countries operate 11 telescopes. There are actually 13, but several are being decommissioned now. Decommissioning takes time, so while they aren’t doing science, the telescopes are still there. On Maunakea, several telescopes are record holders: the world’s largest optical-infrared telescopes (the dual Keck telescopes), the world’s largest dedicated infrared telescope (UKIRT), and the largest submillimeter telescope (the JCMT). The still-larger Thirty Meter Telescope (TMT) had been cleared for construction and was slated to open its record-breaking eye to the heavens until it was delayed by protests in 2019. The project’s future is unknown, as the mountain transitions to the management of the Maunakea Stewardship Oversight Authority, which includes Native Hawaiians in the dialogue.

Maunakea is tall, but there are higher mountains in the world, so what makes this spot so superb for astronomy? It has more to do with atmosphere than with elevation. A tropical-inversion cloud layer below the summit keeps moisture from the ocean and other atmospheric pollutants down at the lower elevations. As a result, the air around the Maunakea summit is extremely dry, which helps in the measurement of infrared and submillimeter radiation from stars, planets, and other astronomical points of interest. There are also rarely clouds up here; the annual number of clear nights here blows every other place out of the water. In addition, because the mountain is far away from any interfering artificial lights (not a total coincidence—in addition to the fact that the nearest town is nearly 30 miles away, there’s an official ordinance limiting certain kinds of streetlights on the island), skies are dark for the astronomers’ research. To quote the staff at the observatory, astronomers here are able to “observe the faintest galaxies that lie at the very edge of the observable universe.”

Teams from various nations and universities around the world must submit proposals years in advance to get the chance to use the telescopes on Maunakea. They have made major astronomical discoveries, including several about the nature of black holes, super planets, new satellites around Jupiter and Saturn, new Trojans (asteroids that orbit, similar to moons) around Neptune, new moons and rings around Uranus, and new moons around Pluto. Their studies of galaxies are changing the way scientists think about time and the evolution of the universe.

What does all this mean for you? A visit to Maunakea is a chance to see more stars than you’ve likely ever seen before and an opportunity to learn more about mind-boggling scientific discoveries in the very spot where these discoveries are being made. Only the astronomers, though, are allowed to use the telescopes and other equipment, but the scenery is available to all. (You must leave the summit before dark for your safety.) We recommend going with a licensed summit tour company that takes care of the details.

If you’re in Hilo, be sure to visit the Imiloa Astronomy Center. It offers presentations and planetarium films about the mountain and the science being conducted there, as well as exhibits describing the deep knowledge of the heavens possessed by the ancient Hawaiians.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

The summit of Maunakea isn’t terribly far, but the drive takes about 90 minutes from Hilo and an hour from Waimea thanks to the steep road. Between the ride there, sunset on the summit, and stargazing, allot at least five hours for a Maunakea visit.

To reach the summit, you must take Saddle Road (Highway 200, the Daniel K. Inouye Highway), which is a beautiful shortcut across the middle of the island. At mile marker 28, John A. Burns Way, the access road to the visitor center (9,200 feet), is fine, but the road from there to the summit is a lot more precarious because it’s unpaved washboard and steep. As of 2022, new rules have restricted the road to true four-wheel-drive vehicles. These must have a 4-low or a 4-high on the transfer case; all-wheel-drive and two-wheel-drive vehicles are no longer allowed. Every vehicle will be inspected, and those deemed unsuitable will be turned away by rangers and prohibited past Hale Pohaku.

If you haven’t rented a four-wheel-drive vehicle from Harper or Big Island Jeep Rentals—the only rental companies that allow their vehicles on the summit— the best thing to do is book a commercial tour. Operators provide transportation to and from the summit led by expert guides; they also provide parkas, gloves, telescopes, dinner, hot beverages, and snacks. All give their own star talks a few thousand feet below the summit, which is actually a better spot to view stars for amateur stargazers than the actual summit. Companies that offer summit tours are headquartered in Hilo and Kona.

Although you can park at the visitor center and hike to the summit if you are in good shape, the trip takes approximately seven hours one way, and no camping is allowed. That means you must leave in the predawn hours in order to be back before dark; a permit is also required for this hike.

The last potential obstacle to visiting the summit: it’s cold—as in freezing—usually with significant wind chill, ice, and snow. Winds have been clocked exceeding 135 miles per hour. This is a wilderness area and there are no services or rangers, except in an absolute emergency.

SAFETY

Maunakea’s extreme altitude can cause altitude sickness, leading to disorientation, headaches, and light-headedness. Keeping hydrated is crucial. Scuba divers must wait at least 24 hours before traveling to the summit. Children under 16, pregnant women, and those with heart, respiratory, or weight problems should not go higher than the visitor center.

TOURS

Arnott’s Lodge and Hiking Adventures

SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS | This outfitter takes small tours (maximum nine guests) to the summit of Maunakea for sunset and then stops on the way down the mountain, where guides give visual lectures (dependent on clear skies) using handheld lasers. They focus on major celestial objects and Polynesian navigational stars. The excursion departs from Hilo, offers pickup from Hilo hotels, and includes hot beverages. The company also offers a traveler’s lodge and a number of volcano park and Puna eruption site adventure hikes. Private tours are available, as are alternate trips to the mountain for sunrise, when the summit is far less crowded. E98 Apapane Rd., Hilo P808/339–0921 wwww.arnottslodge.com AFrom $228.

HHawaii Forest & Trail

SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS | The ultracomfortable, highly educational Summit & Stars tour packs a lot of fun into a few hours. Guides are knowledgeable about astronomy and Hawaii’s geologic and cultural history, and the small group size (maximum of 12) encourages camaraderie while attending to safety. Included in the tour are dinner at an old ranching station, sunset on the summit, and a private star show midmountain. The company’s powerful 11-inch Celestron Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope reveals many celestial objects and constellations, and you are given a chance to look. Everything from water bottles, parkas, and gloves to hot chocolate and brownies is included.

Mauna Loa s

Mauna Loa is the world’s largest active volcano, making up more than 50% of the Big Island of Hawaii. This shield volcano is so massive and heavy that it creates a depression in the sea floor (part of the Pacific tectonic plate) of 8 kilometers (5 miles). In fact, if measured from its base on the ocean floor, Mauna Loa would dwarf Everest. It’s been erupting for nearly 700,000 years and shows no signs of stopping. And indeed, it erupted for two weeks in November 2022 after a rest period of 38 years, sending lava flows toward the northeast, fortunately well away from populated areas.

The volcano remains enigmatic to visitors and locals and is not often visited. On the rare days when the summit is visible from the southeast highway, the view of its gentle shield formation does not appear very commanding. You might drive by and simply think it’s just a rather large hill.

Looks can be deceiving. Mauna Loa is one of 16 “Decade Volcanoes,” so designated by the International Association of Volcanology and Chemistry of Earth’s Interior. These volcanoes are particularly dangerous to populated areas. Needless to say, the volcano looms large in the history and the daily life of Hawaii residents.

Visiting Mauna Loa

Despite its size, Mauna Loa is often forgotten in the typical visitor’s itinerary. One reason for this is the long drive; a single-lane, paved, 17½-mile road, accessed from mile marker 28 on the Daniel K. Inouye Highway (Highway 200, also called the Saddle Road), takes you to the Mauna Loa Observatory at 11,500 feet, where the road ends. It’s then a steep, rugged 6.4-mile hike (which can take all day) to the summit, a trek recommended only for the fit, the well-prepared, and the adventurous. There is a cabin at the summit caldera, called Mokuaweoaweo Caldera (13,250 feet), where you may sleep if you obtain a permit (available from the Kilauea Visitor Center at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park). The other way to access the summit is even more difficult and takes a minimum of three to four days. It’s a 19½-mile journey, during which you ascend in altitude by some 6,600 feet to reach the crater. Most hikers stop to acclimatize properly and camp in one of two basic cabins. You need a backcountry wilderness permit for this hike. But there are no services whatsoever in this subfreezing wilderness environment. It was from this vantage that several campers were awakened with the shock of their lives in 1984, when the summit erupted and sent lava flows within 6 miles of Hilo.

The company’s Maunakea Sunrise tour begins in the wee hours before the sun comes up and includes a hike among the endangered silverswords as well as breakfast at the visitor center. Of course the main event is a spectacular sunrise on the summit. The company also offers a daytime version of the summit tour. E73-5593 Olowalu St., Kailua-Kona P808/331–8505, 800/464–1993 wwww.hawaii-forest.com AFrom $275.

Mauna Kea Summit Adventures

SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS | The first company to specialize in tours to the mountain is a small outfit that focuses on stars. Cushy vans with panoramic windows journey first to the visitor center, where participants eat dinner on the lanai and acclimatize for 45 minutes before donning hooded arctic-style parkas and ski gloves for the sunset trip to the 14,000-foot summit. With the help of knowledgeable guides, stargazing through a powerful Celestron telescope happens midmountain, where the elevation is more comfortable and skies are just as clear. The tour includes dinner, hot cocoa and biscotti, and west-side pickup; it runs 364 days a year, weather permitting. lBook at least one month in advance, as these tours sell out fast. EKailua-Kona P808/322–2366, 888/322–2366 wwww.maunakea.com AFrom $282.

s Sights

HOnizuka Center for International Astronomy Visitor Information Station

VISITOR CENTER | At 9,200 feet, this excellent amateur observation site is a great way to get a sense of the mountain and the observatory work without going all the way to the summit. It’s open daily from 9 am to 9 pm and offers free monthly stargazing events (which require preregistration and are weather dependent). The center is also a good place to stop to acclimatize yourself to the altitude if you’re heading for the summit. Nights are clear 90% of the year, so the chances are good for seeing some amazing sights in the sky. Surprisingly, stargazing here is actually better than at the summit itself because of reduced oxygen there. The parking lot can get crowded. EMaunakea Access Rd. P808/934–4550 visitor center, 808/935–6268 current road conditions whilo.hawaii.edu/maunakea AFree, donations welcome.

Hilo

In comparison to Kailua-Kona, Hilo is often deemed “the old Hawaii.” With significantly fewer visitors than the resort areas of Kona and the Kohala Coast, more historic buildings, and a much stronger identity as a long-established community, this working-class, traditional town does seem more authentically “local.”

The town stretches from the banks of the Wailuku River to Hilo Bay, where hotels line stately Banyan Drive. The vintage buildings that make up Hilo’s downtown have been spruced up as part of a revitalization effort. With a population of almost 50,000 in the entire district, Hilo is the fourth-largest city in the state and home to the University of Hawaii at Hilo. Although it is the center of government and commerce for the island, Hilo is clearly a residential town. It’s a friendly community, populated by Native Hawaiians and descendants of the contract laborers—Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, and Portuguese—brought in to work the sugarcane fields during the 1800s.

With the district’s average rainfall of 130 inches per year, it’s easy to see why Hilo’s yards are so green and its buildings so weatherworn. Outside town, the Hilo District boasts scenic beach valleys, rain forests, and waterfalls. Although Hilo can get a lot of rain, when the sun does shine—usually part of nearly every day—the town sparkles; during winter, the snow glistens on the summit of Maunakea, 25 miles in the distance.

For a week every year in April, Hilo becomes the epicenter of the hula world when the Merrie Monarch Festival attracts tens of thousands of people to the renowned international event, steeped in traditions that represent the essence of Hilo’s pioneering spirit.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Hilo International Airport is one of the island’s two international airports, although flights to and from Kailua-Kona are more frequent. Still, this is the best airport to fly into if your main goal is to visit Hilo and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

The Hele-On (wwww.heleonbus.org) public bus offers intra-Hilo transit service throughout town, but buses don’t operate at night. For ultra-budget travelers, the Hele-On bus is a cost-effective way to visit Hawaii Volcanoes National Park or Pahoa Town without having to rent a car. The cost is $2.

Your best bet for getting around Hilo is renting a car. The rental car companies at the Hilo airport include Advantage, Alamo, Budget, Dollar, Hertz, and National. Off-site rental car companies in Hilo include Harper (wwww.harpershawaii.com) and Enterprise. Daily rates average $125 a day, not including taxes and fees. Reserve early, as fleets in Hilo are not as large as on the Kona side. If you’re coming during the Merrie Monarch Festival, rental cars will be in short supply.

Downtown

Local flavor abounds in downtown Hilo, where vintage homes are the norm and businesses occupy older buildings, many historic. The Hilo Farmers Market, in full swing on Wednesday and Saturday, is a must-see. Also downtown are the Pacific Tsunami Museum, the historic Palace Theater, and the Mokupapapa Discovery Center. Visitors to downtown Hilo might wonder why the bayfront shops, galleries, and businesses are located such a distance from the actual bayfront. That’s because the devastating tsunamis of 1946 and 1960 decimated the populated shoreline areas of Hilo’s former downtown center.

s Sights

Haili Congregational Church

CHURCH | Constructed in 1859 by New England missionaries, this church is known for its services in Hawaiian and for the choir, which sings hymns in Hawaiian. In 1902, Hawaiian musical legends Harry K. Naope Sr. and Albert Nahalea Sr. began the choral traditions still practiced by their descendants. The church, with its iconic yellow spire, has an interesting history that dates to 1824 when it was a thatched structure. E211 Haili St., Hilo P808/935–4847 wwww.hailichurch.org AFree, donations welcome.

HHilo Farmers Market

MARKET | The 200 vendors here—stretching a couple of blocks at the bayfront—sell a profusion of tropical flowers, locally grown produce, aromatic honey, tangy goat cheese, hot breakfast and lunch items, and fresh baked specialties at extraordinary prices. This colorful, open-air market—the largest and most popular on the island—opens for business Wednesday and Saturday from 7 am to 3 pm. A smaller version on the other days features more than 30 vendors. Free parking is available. EKamehameha Ave. and Mamo St., Hilo P808/933–1000 wwww.hilofarmersmarket.com AFree.

Kalakaua Park

CITY PARK | A bronze statue in this park, the central town square for more than a century, depicts King David Kalakaua (1836–1891), who revived the hula and is the inspiration for Hilo’s Merrie Monarch Festival. Erected in 1988, the statue depicts the king with a taro leaf in his left hand to signify the Hawaiian people’s bond with the land. The park is surrounded by civic buildings and a war memorial. There is a huge, spreading banyan tree and small fishponds but no picnic or recreation facilities. According to local tradition, families of military personnel often leave leftover floral displays and funeral wreaths along the fishpond walkway as a way of honoring their loved ones. EKalakaua and Kinoole Sts., Hilo.

Keawe Street

STREET | Buildings here have been restored to their original 1920s and ‘30s vintage plantation styles. Although most shopping is along Kamehameha Avenue two blocks below, the ambience on Keawe Street offers a nostalgic sampling of Hilo as it might have been decades ago. EHilo.

HLyman Museum and Mission House

HISTORY MUSEUM | Built in 1839 by missionary couple Sarah and David Lyman from New England, the beautifully restored Lyman Mission House is the Island’s oldest wood-frame building. On display are household utensils, artifacts, tools, and furniture used by the family, giving visitors a peek into the day-to-day lives of Hawaii’s first missionaries. The Lymans hosted such literary dignitaries as Isabella Bird and Mark Twain here. The home is on the State and National Registers of Historic Places, and docent-guided tours are offered. An adjacent museum has wonderful exhibits on volcanoes, island formation, island habitats and wildlife, marine shells, and minerals and gemstones; it also showcases Native Hawaiian culture and the culture of immigrant ethnic groups. On permanent exhibit is a full-size replica of a traditional 1930s Korean home. The gift shop sells superb Hawaiian-made items. E276 Haili St., Hilo P808/935–5021 wwww.lymanmuseum.org A$7 CClosed Sat. and Sun.

Mokupapapa Discovery Center for Hawaii’s Remote Coral Reefs

SCIENCE MUSEUM | FAMILY | This is a great place to learn about the stunning Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument, which encompasses nearly 140,000 square miles in the northwestern Hawaiian Islands and is the only mixed UNESCO World Heritage site (meaning one that has both natural and cultural significance) in the United States. Giant murals, 3D maps, and hands-on interactive kiosks depict the monument’s extensive wildlife, including millions of birds and more than 7,000 marine species, many of which are found only in the Hawaiian archipelago. Knowledgeable staff and volunteers are on hand to answer questions. A 3,500-gallon aquarium and short films give insight into the unique features of the monument, as well as threats to its survival. Located in the refurbished F. Koehnen Building, the center is worth a stop just to get an up-close look at its huge stuffed albatross with wings outstretched or the monk seal exhibit. EF. Koehnen Bldg., 76 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/933–8180 wwww.marinesanctuary.org/mokupapapa-discovery-center AFree CClosed Sun. and Mon.

Pacific Tsunami Museum

SCIENCE MUSEUM | FAMILY | A small but informative museum in a vintage First Hawaiian Bank building designed by noted Hawaii-raised architect C. W. Dickey provides tsunami education and scientific information. It may seem odd that downtown Hilo businesses tend to be far from the scenic bayfront, but the 1946 tsunami alone killed 158 people in Hilo. Visitors can peruse the history of these devastating disasters, with accounts taken from tsunami survivors from Hawaii and worldwide. Exhibits include a wave machine and interactive tsunami warning center simulation as well as films and pictographs detailing tsunamis in Japan, Alaska, and Indonesia. A safety-wall exhibit demonstrates how to be prepared and what steps to take during an evacuation. E130 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/935–0926 wwww.tsunami.org A$15.

r Restaurants

Café Pesto

$$ | ITALIAN | Located in a beautiful high-ceiling venue in the historic S. Hata Building, Café Pesto offers artisan pizzas with ingredients such as fresh Hamakua mushrooms, artichokes, and rosemary Gorgonzola sauce. Known for: exhibition kitchen detailed in brass; wood-fired pizza; featured on the Food Network. DAverage main: $20 E308 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/969–6640 wwww.cafepesto.com.

Hawaiian Style Cafe

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | Come hungry: there’s a reason the line is usually out the door at this popular hole-in-the-wall eatery in a shopping center downtown. Not only does the Hawaiian comfort food hit the spot, it’s affordable and served in sizable portions. Known for: breakfast available all day; massive pancakes; signature homemade Portuguese sausage. DAverage main: $11 E681 Manono St., Suite 101, Hilo P808/969–9265 wwww.hawaiianstylecafe.us CNo dinner Sun. and Mon.

HHilo Burger Joint

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | What this casual former Irish pub lacks in space and parking is more than made up for in burger choices: more than 22 varieties of gourmet burgers, from a bacon ranch burger to a southern BBQ burger. Many of the ingredients come straight from the Big Island, and non-beef selections such as fish burgers are available as well, so it’s definitely worth checking out. Known for: Wagyu burger; live entertainment; more than 21 beers on tap. DAverage main: $16 E776 Kilauea Ave., Hilo P808/935–8880 wwww.hiloburgerjoint.com.

Moon and Turtle

$$$ | INTERNATIONAL | This sophisticated, intimate restaurant in a bayfront building offers a classy selection of international fare with the focus on locally sourced meats, produce, and seafood. The menu changes daily (see their Facebook page), but mushroom pappardelle is a highlight, along with seafood chowder, spicy kajiki (marlin) tartare, and crispy whole-fried moi (Pacific threadfin). Known for: “Smokey” ahi sashimi; lychee martinis infused with Hawaiian influences; changing daily menu. DAverage main: $30 E51 Kalakaua St., Hilo P808/961–0599 wfacebook.com/moonandturtle CClosed Sun. and Mon.

Pineapple’s Island Fresh Cuisine

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | If you expect that a restaurant named Pineapple’s would serve tropical beverages in hollowed-out pineapples, you’d be exactly correct. Always packed, this open-air bistro looks like a tourist trap, but there is a fine-dining component to the menu, which includes fresh catch, kalbi ribs (grilled, Korean-style), teriyaki flank steak, burgers, wraps, and sandwiches. Known for: surprisingly inventive island cuisine; vegan-friendly; live entertainment Thursday–Sunday. DAverage main: $15 E332 Keawe St., Hilo P808/238–5324 wwww.pinappleshilo.net CClosed Mon.

Coffee and Quick Bites

K’s Drive-In

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | Unassuming from the outside, this small, local-style plate-lunch eatery serves top-quality, genuine Hawaiian specialties in Hilo. All the staples are here, from kalua pork (slow-cooked and pulled) to shoyu chicken (cooked in a sauce including fermented soy sauce), loco moco (meat, rice, and eggs smothered in gravy), and pork adobo. Known for: daily specials like oxtail soup; home of the Twist Cone; favorite among locals since 1964. DAverage main: $14 E194 Hualalai St., Hilo P808/935–5573 wwww.ksdrivein.com.

Puka Puka Kitchen

$ | HAWAIIAN | Puka means a small space in Hawaiian, and this little takeout eatery certainly fits the bill. This is where you can experience authentic local fare such as lunch plates, a chicken katsu plate, or onolicious (delicious) fish-and-chips. Known for: bento boxes; ample portions; true local vibe. DAverage main: $14 E270 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/933–2121 CClosed Sun. No dinner.

h Hotels

Dolphin Bay Hotel

$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Units in this circa-1950s motor lodge are modest but charming, as well as clean and inexpensive; a glowing lava-flow sign marks the office and testifies to owner John Alexander’s passion for the volcano. Pros: great value; full kitchens in all units; within walking distance to shops and restaurants. Cons: no pool; no phones in the rooms; dated decor. DRooms from: $139 E333 Iliahi St., Hilo P808/935–1466 wwww.dolphinbayhotel.com a18 rooms XNo Meals.

Hilltop Legacy Vacation Rental

$ | HOUSE | Built in the 1930s by a Japanese doctor, this vintage home offers stunning views of downtown Hilo and the bay. Pros: garden to relax in; billiard table; close to downtown. Cons: two of the four rooms don’t have views; kitchen is shared; parking issues. DRooms from: $122 E57 Hina St., Hilo P808/896–2074 wwww.hilltoplegacy.com a4 rooms XNo Meals.

Hilo Honu Inn

$ | B&B/INN | A charming old Craftsman home lovingly restored by a friendly and hospitable couple from North Carolina, the inn offers variety in guest room size and decor, though every room has a fridge. Pros: spectacular Hilo Bay views; historical setting; within walking distance of Hilo bayfront. Cons: no toddlers in the upstairs suite; not on the beach; air-conditioning in only two of the three rooms. DRooms from: $175 E465 Haili St., Hilo P808/935–4325 wwww.hilohonu.com a3 rooms XFree Breakfast.

n Nightlife

BARS

Cronies Bar & Grill

BARS | A sports bar by night and a good hamburger joint by day, Cronies is a local favorite. When the lights go down, the bar gets packed. E11 Waianuenue Ave., Hilo P808/935–5158 wwww.cronieshawaii.com.

p Performing Arts

HMerrie Monarch Festival

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | The mother of all Hawaii festivals, the world-class Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo celebrates all things hula for one fantastic week every April with competitions, activities, a parade, and more. The esteemed event honors the legacy of King David Kalakaua (1836–1891), the man responsible for reviving fading Hawaiian cultural traditions including hula. The three-day hula competition is staged at the Edith Kanakaole Multi-Purpose Stadium during the first week following Easter Sunday. Hula halau (studios) worldwide come to perform both kahiko (ancient) and auana (modern) dance styles, solo and in groups. Tickets are not expensive, but they are hard to get. lYou should reserve accommodations and rental cars up to a year in advance. Ticket requests must be mailed and postmarked after December 1 of the preceding year. EEdith Kanakaole Multi-Purpose Stadium, 350 Kalanikoa St., Hilo P808/935–9168 wwww.merriemonarch.com.

b Shopping

ARTS AND CRAFTS

Most Irresistible Shop in Hilo

SOUVENIRS | FAMILY | Living up to its name, this store stocks unique gifts from around the Pacific, like pure Hawaiian ohia lehua honey, Kau coffee, aloha wear, and tinkling wind chimes. E256 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/935–9644 wwww.mostirresistibleshop.com.

CLOTHING AND SHOES

Sig Zane Designs

CLOTHING | This acclaimed boutique for women and men sells island wearables with bold colors and motifs designed by the legendary Sig Zane, known for his artwork honoring Hawaii’s native flora and fauna. All apparel is handcrafted in Hawaii and is often worn by local celebrities and businesspeople. E122 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/935–7077 wwww.sigzanedesigns.com.

FOOD

HSugar Coast Candy

CANDY | FAMILY | Located on the bayfront in downtown Hilo, this beautifully decorated candy boutique is a blast from the past, featuring an amazing array of nostalgic candies, artisan chocolates, and wooden barrels overflowing with saltwater taffy and other delights. E274 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/935–6960.

HTwo Ladies Kitchen

CANDY | FAMILY | This hole-in-the-wall confections shop has made a name for itself thanks to its pillowy mochi. The proprietors are best known for their huge, ripe strawberries wrapped in a white mochi covering, which won’t last as long as a box of chocolates—most mochi items are good for only two or three days. To guarantee you get your fill, call and place your order ahead of time. E274 Kilauea Ave., Hilo P808/961–4766.

HOME DECOR

Dragon Mama

HOUSEWARES | Step into this hip downtown Hilo spot to find authentic Japanese fabrics, futons, and gifts along with elegant clothing, sleepwear, and tea-service accoutrements. Handmade comforters, pillows, and futon pads are sewn of natural fibers on-site. E266 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/934–9081 wwww.dragonmama.com.

Liliuokalani Gardens and Reeds Bay

The hotel district near Banyan Drive is within walking distance of nearby scenic Liliuokalani Gardens. To the east, Reeds Bay is small and idyllic, surrounded by a tiny sand beach and some parks with picnic tables. There’s a lot of local activity here, including biking, jogging, kayaking, fishing, swimming, and stand-up paddleboarding. Several bayside restaurants are within walking distance of the hotels, some with spectacular bayfront views.

s Sights

Banyan Drive

STREET | More than 50 enormous banyan trees with aerial roots dangling from their limbs were planted along the road, mostly during the 1930s but also after World War II, by visiting celebrities. Names such as Amelia Earhart, Babe Ruth, and Franklin Delano Roosevelt appear on plaques affixed to the trees. A scenic loop beginning at the Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo (E93 Banyan Dr.) makes a nice walk, especially in the evening when thousands of mynah birds roost in the trees. EHilo.

Liliuokalani Gardens

GARDEN | Designed to honor Hawaii’s first Japanese immigrants and named after Hawaii’s last reigning monarch, Liliuokalani Gardens’ 30 acres of fish-filled ponds, stone lanterns, half-moon bridges, elegant pagodas, and a ceremonial teahouse make it a favorite Sunday destination, or any day of the week for that matter. You’ll see weddings, picnics, and family gatherings as you stroll. The surrounding area, once a busy residential neighborhood on Waiakea Peninsula, was destroyed by a devastating 1960 tsunami that killed 61 people. EBanyan Dr., at Lihiwai St., Hilo AFree.

Wailoa Center

ARTS CENTER | At the Wailoa River State Recreation Area, a beautiful park setting near downtown Hilo, this circular exhibition center hosts monthly exhibits in two galleries featuring impressive work from local artists. Pieces range from photography, pottery, contemporary painting, quilts, glassworks, multimedia, and woodworking to musical instruments and artwork depicting Hawaii’s native species. There’s also an educational space for workshops and community events. E200 Piopio St., off Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/933–0416 wwww.wailoacenter.com AFree CClosed Sun.

; Beaches

Reeds Bay Beach Park

BEACH | Safe swimming, proximity to downtown Hilo, and the Ice Pond—a freshwater-fed swimming hole that flows into the backwaters of Hilo Bay—are the enticements of this cove. No, there really isn’t ice in the swimming hole; it just feels that way on a hot, sultry day. The large pond, between SCP Hilo Hotel and the Ponds Hilo Restaurant, is a favorite of local kids, who enjoy jumping into and frolicking in the fresh- and saltwater mix. The water is usually calm. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers. Best for: swimming. E277 Kalanianaole Ave., Hilo.

r Restaurants

HHilo Bay Cafe

$$ | JAPANESE FUSION | Overlooking Hilo Bay from its towering perch on the waterfront, this popular, upscale restaurant with great water views has a sophisticated second-floor dining room that looks like it’s straight out of Manhattan. A sushi bar complements the excellent selection of fresh fish, pork, beef, and vegan options. Known for: creative use of fresh local produce; artisan sushi; Hilo’s most upscale restaurant. DAverage main: $26 E123 Lihiwai St., Hilo P808/935–4939 wwww.hilobaycafe.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

HKen’s House of Pancakes

$ | DINER | FAMILY | For years, this legendary diner near Banyan Drive between the airport and the hotels has been a gathering place for Hilo residents and visitors. Breakfast is the main attraction: Ken’s serves 11 types of pancakes, plus all kinds of fruit waffles (banana, peach) and popular omelets, like Da Bradda, teeming with meats. Known for: local landmark with old-fashioned diner vibe; variety of homemade syrups; breakfast served all day. DAverage main: $16 E1730 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/935–8711 wwww.kenshouseofpancakes.com.

Ponds Hilo

$$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Perched on the waterfront overlooking a scenic pond at Reeds Bay Beach Park, this restaurant has the look and vibe of an old-fashioned, harborside steak house and bar. The menu features a good range of burgers and salads, steak, and seafood. Known for: live music; excellent fish-and-chips; popular Sunday brunch. DAverage main: $20 E135 Kalanianaole Ave., Hilo P808/934–7663 wwww.pondshilo.com CClosed Tues. and Wed.

HSombat’s Fresh Thai Cuisine

$$ | THAI | There’s a reason why locals flock to this hideaway for the best Thai cuisine in Hilo. Proprietor Sombat Saenguthai’s menu highlights fresh local ingredients (many of the herbs come from her own garden) in authentic and tasty Thai treats like coconut curries, fresh basil rolls, eggplant stir-fry, and green papaya salad. Known for: famous pad Thai sauce available for purchase; friendly service; single owner and chef. DAverage main: $20 EWaiakea Kai Plaza, 88 Kanoelehue Ave., Hilo P808/969–9336 wwww.sombats.com CClosed Sat. and Sun. No lunch.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Cafe 100

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | Established in 1948, this casual spot is famous for its tasty loco moco, prepared in more than three dozen ways (with different meats, chicken, vegetables, and fish), and its low-priced breakfast and lunch specials. The word “restaurant,” or even “café,” is used loosely—you order at a window and eat on one of the outdoor benches provided—but you come here for the food, prices, and authentic, old-Hilo experience. Known for: family-owned eatery; the Super Loco Moco; generous portions. DAverage main: $6 E969 Kilauea Ave., Hilo P808/935–8683 wwww.cafe100.com CClosed Sat. and Sun.

Verna’s Drive-In

$ | HAWAIIAN | Verna’s is tried-and-true among locals, who come for the juicy house-made burgers and filling plate lunches; and the price is right with a burger combo that includes fries and a drink. If you’re hungry for more, try the traditional Hawaiian plate with either laulau, beef stew, chicken long rice, or lomi lomi salmon (salted salmon “salsa” made with tomatoes and onions). Known for: local grindz (food) with outdoor seating; open 24 hours; superlow prices. DAverage main: $6 E1765 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/935–2776 CClosed Sun.

h Hotels

Castle Hilo Hawaiian Hotel

$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | This landmark hotel has large bayfront rooms offering spectacular views of Maunakea and Coconut Island on Hilo Bay; street-side rooms overlook the golf course, and the hotel is within walking distance of Liliuokalani Gardens. Pros: private lanai in most rooms; 24-hour front desk; free parking. Cons: dated decor; some rooms don’t have bayfront views; no beach. DRooms from: $159 E71 Banyan Dr., Hilo P808/935–9361 direct, 800/367–5004 from mainland wwww.castleresorts.com a286 rooms XNo Meals.

Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo – A DoubleTree by Hilton

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Hilo isn’t known for its fancy resort hotels, but the Grand Naniloa, built in 1939, attempts to remedy that situation in grand fashion, paying homage to hula, Hawaiian culture, and Big Island adventures. Pros: walking distance to Japanese gardens and Coconut Island; rental kayaks, paddleboards, and bikes; free golf at adjacent 9-hole course and driving range. Cons: some rooms don’t have ocean views; limited parking; small swimming pool. DRooms from: $214 E93 Banyan Dr., Hilo P808/969–3333 wwww.grandnaniloahilo.com a388 rooms XNo Meals.

SCP Hilo Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | This mindfully designed boutique hotel features a minimalist Zen style combined with Hawaiiana accents. Pros: fantastic location across from Reeds Bay; wellness amenities and sustainable practices; walking distance to several restaurants. Cons: parking lot can be tight; no TVs in rooms; no hot tub. DRooms from: $233 E126 Banyan Way, Hilo P808/935–0821 wscphotel.com/hilo a128 rooms XNo Meals.

b Shopping

BOOKS AND MAGAZINES

HBasically Books

BOOKS | This legendary shop stocks one of Hawaii’s largest selections of maps, including topographical and relief maps, and Hilo’s largest selection of Hawaiian music (feel free to ask for advice about your selection). It also has a wealth of books about Hawaii, with great choices for children. If you need an umbrella on a rainy Hilo day, this bookstore has plenty of them. E334 Kilauea Ave., Hilo P808/961–0144 wwww.basicallybooks.com.

Greater Hilo

Sights beyond the downtown area spread out in every direction and are often interspersed among residential neighborhoods and industrial parks. Be sure to check out Panaewa Rainforest Zoo and Gardens with more than 200 animals and hundreds of species of tropical plants. Above the University of Hawaii at Hilo campus, the Imiloa Astronomy Center has a planetarium, restaurant, and gift shop. For a delicious side trek, Big Island Candies is a must-visit destination for world-class confections.

s Sights

Boiling Pots

WATERFALL | Four separate streams fall into a series of circular pools here, fed by Peepee Falls just above, and the resulting turbulent action—best seen after a good rain—has earned this scenic stretch of the Wailuku River the nickname Boiling Pots. Swimming is not allowed at Boiling Pots or anywhere in the Wailuku River, due to extremely dangerous currents and undertows. The falls are 3 miles northwest of downtown Hilo off Waianuenue Avenue; keep to the right when the road splits and look for the sign. The gate opens at 7 am and closes at 6 pm. You may want to combine a drive to this site with a visit to Rainbow Falls, a bit closer to downtown. zYou may be tempted, as you watch others ignore the signs and climb over guardrails, to jump in, but resist. Swimming is prohibited and unsafe, and people have died here. EWailuku River State Park, off Waianuenue Ave., Hilo jAt the end of Peepee Falls Dr. wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii AFree.

HHawaii Tropical Bioreserve and Garden

GARDEN | Stunning coastline views appear around each curve of the 4-mile scenic jungle drive that accesses this privately owned nature preserve next to Onomea Bay. Paved pathways in the 17-acre botanical garden lead past ponds, waterfalls, and more than 2,000 species of plants and flowers, including palms, bromeliads, torch ginger, heliconia, orchids, and ornamentals. With its stunning boardwalk entry, the garden is well worth a stop, and your entry fee helps the nonprofit preserve plants, seeds, and rain forests. lTrails can get slippery when it’s raining. E27-717 Old Mamalahoa Hwy., Papaikou j8 miles north of downtown Hilo P808/964–5233 wwww.htbg.com A$30.

Hilo Coffee Mill

FARM/RANCH | With all the buzz about Kona coffee, it’s easy to forget that estate-grown coffee is produced throughout the rest of the island; the Hilo Coffee Mill, on 24 acres in lush Mountain View, is a pleasant reminder of that. In addition to farming its own coffee on-site, the mill has partnered with several small coffee farmers in East Hawaii in an effort to put the region on the world’s coffee map. You can sample the company’s efforts, tour the mill, and watch the roasters in action. They host a farmers’ market every Saturday from 9 to 2. E17-995 Volcano Rd. (Hwy. 11), between mile markers 12 and 13, Mountain View P808/968–1333 wwww.hilocoffeemill.com AFree CClosed Sun., Mon., and Fri.

HImiloa Astronomy Center

SCIENCE MUSEUM | Part Hawaiian cultural center, part astronomy museum, part planetarium, this center provides community outreach for the astronomy program at the University of Hawaii at Hilo. With its interactive exhibits, full-dome planetarium shows, and regularly scheduled talks and events, the center is a must-see for anyone interested in the stars and planets, Hawaiian cultural history, and early Polynesian navigation. Admission includes one planetarium show and an all-day pass to the exhibit hall, which features more than 100 interactive displays. The lunch buffet at the adjoining Sky Garden Restaurant is popular and affordable. A five-minute drive from downtown Hilo, the center is located above the main campus at the university’s Science and Technology Park. EUniversity of Hawaii at Hilo Science and Technology Park, 600 Imiloa Pl., off Nowelo and Komohana Sts., Hilo P808/969–9700 wwww.imiloahawaii.org A$19 CClosed Mon. and Tues.

Kaumana Caves Park

CAVE | Thanks to Hilo’s abundant rainfall, this lava tube is lush with plant life. Concrete stairs lead down to the 2½-mile-long tube, which has no lighted areas. The ground is uneven and damp, so wear sturdy shoes, bring a flashlight, and explore as far as you dare to go. There are restrooms and a covered picnic table at the cave, and parking across the street. lHeed all warning signs when entering the caves. E1492 Kaumana Dr., Hilo AFree.

Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Visitor Center

FACTORY | FAMILY | Acres of macadamia nut trees lead to a giant roasting facility and processing plant with viewing windows and self-guided tours. You can even watch demonstrations showing how they coat nuts and shortbread cookies with milk chocolate to create their famous products. There are free samples and plenty of gift boxes with mac nuts in every conceivable form of presentation for sale in the visitor center. Children can burn off extra energy on a nature trail here after enjoying dairy-free ice cream for sale. E16-701 Macadamia Rd., off Hwy. 11, Hilo j5 miles south of Hilo in Keaau P808/966–8614 wwww.maunaloa.com AFree CNo factory processing Sat. and Sun.

HPanaewa Rainforest Zoo and Gardens

ZOO | FAMILY | Billed as “the only natural tropical rain forest zoo in the United States,” this 12-acre county zoo features native Hawaiian species such as the nene goose and the io (hawk), as well as many other rare birds such as the highly endangered Hawaiian crow, or alala. Two Bengal tigers are also part of the collection. The white-faced whistling tree ducks are a highlight, along with monkeys, sloths, and lemurs. There’s also a petting zoo on Saturdays from 1:30 to 2:30. Myriad species of lush, unusual tropical plants fill the grounds. To get here, turn left on Mamaki off Highway 11; it’s just past the “Kulani 19, Stainback Hwy.” sign. E800 Stainback Hwy., Hilo P808/959–7224 wwww.hilozoo.org AFree, donations encouraged.

Rainbow Falls

WATERFALL | After a hard rain, these impressive falls thunder into the Wailuku River gorge, often creating magical rainbows in the mist. Rainbow Falls, sometimes known as the Hilo Town Falls, are located just above downtown Hilo at Wailuku River State Park. Take Waianuenue Avenue west for a mile; when the road forks, stay right and look for the Hawaiian warrior marker sign. The falls remain open during daylight. If you’re visiting the falls, drive up to Boiling Pots, also inside the park but a bit farther up the road. At Boiling Pots, four streams fall into turbulent pools that resemble cauldrons. EWailuku River State Park, Rainbow Dr., Hilo wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii AFree.

; Beaches

Honolii Beach Park

BEACH | One of the most consistent places on the east side to catch a wave, Honolii is popular with the local surf crowd. The beach is a mix of black sand, coral, and sea glass, with plenty of rocks. A shady grassy area is great for picnics while you watch the surfers. Note that the presence of surfers is not an indication that an area is safe for swimmers; winter surf is very rough. A pond just to the north is good for swimming, but it’s deep and there is a drop-off. There’s limited parking on the narrow roadside. Walk down the stairs and veer left over the rocks. Amenities: lifeguards; toilets. Best for: surfing. EHwy. 19, Hilo j1½ miles north of Hilo P808/961–8311.

Onekahakaha Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | Shallow, rock-wall-enclosed tide pools and an adjacent grassy picnic area make this park a favorite among Hilo families with small children. The protected pools are great places to look for Hawaiian marine life like crabs and opihi (limpets). There isn’t much white sand, but access to the water is easy. The water is usually rough beyond the line of large boulders protecting the inner tide pools, so be careful if the surf is high. This beach gets crowded on weekends. Amenities: lifeguards (weekends, holidays, and summer only); parking (no fee); restrooms; showers. Best for: swimming. EOnekahakaha Rd. and Kalanianaole Ave., Hilo j3 miles east of Hilo P808/961–8311.

Richardson Ocean Park and Leleiwi Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | Just east of Hilo, almost at the end of the road, is one of the best snorkeling sites on this side of the island, as rocky outcrops provide shelter for schools of reef fish and sea turtles. Richardson Ocean Park is also the only beach in Hilo with black and green sand. Don’t get close to turtles or disturb them; they are protected from harassment by federal and state law. The shaded grassy areas are great for picnics. The surrounding area unfolds into bays, protected inlets, fishponds, and lagoons, as well as the adjacent Leleiwi Beach Park. Local kids use the small black-sand beach for body boarding. The annual Richardson Rough Water Swim event takes place in October. Amenities: lifeguards (weekends, holidays, and summer only); parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; walking. E2349 Kalanianaole Ave., Hilo j4 miles east of Hilo P808/961–8311.

r Restaurants

Happy Valley Seafood Restaurant

$ | CHINESE | Hilo’s best Chinese restaurant specializes in seafood but also offers many other Cantonese treats, including salt-and-pepper pork, Mongolian lamb, and vegetarian specialties like garlic eggplant and crispy green beans. The food is good, portions are large, and the price is right, but don’t come here expecting any ambience—this is a funky, no-frills Chinese restaurant, with random pieces of artwork tacked up here and there. Known for: authentic Cantonese Chinese food; salt-and-pepper prawns; good soups. DAverage main: $12 E1263 Kilauea Ave., Suite 320, Hilo P808/933–1083 xLunch hours vary.

Kuhio Grille

$ | HAWAIIAN | There’s no atmosphere to speak of at this diner, and water is served in unbreakable plastic tumblers, but if you’re searching for local fare—that undefinable fusion of ethnic cuisines—this is the place. Choose from “grindz” that include loco moco (meat, rice, and eggs smothered in gravy), oxtail soup, plate lunches, pork chops, steaks, saimin, stir-fry, and daily specials. Known for: authentic Hawaiian experience; good plate lunches; award-winning one-pound laulau. DAverage main: $12 E80 Pauahi St., Hilo P808/959–2336 wwww.kuhiogrille.com CClosed Tues.

HThe Seaside Restaurant and Aqua Farm

$$ | SEAFOOD | FAMILY | Owned and operated by the Nakagawi family since the early 1920s, this landmark restaurant features three separate dining rooms that overlook a 30-acre natural brackish fishpond, making this one of the most interesting places to eat in Hilo. Some highlights are paniolo (cowboy) prime rib, New York steak, and shrimp scampi. Known for: authentic local experience; ocean and pond views at sunset; fried aholehole (young Hawaiian flagtail). DAverage main: $30 E1790 Kalanianaole Ave., Hilo P808/935–8825 wseasidehilo.square.site CClosed Mon. and Tues. No lunch.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Sack N Save Seafood Counter

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | It may sound strange, but the takeout seafood counter tucked in the back of this grocery store serves some of the finest poke in Hilo. For $13 a bowl, you get enough seafood on a steaming pile of rice to feed two people. Known for: variety of fresh, Hawaiian-style seafood; house-made sauces; good-value grab-and-go lunch spot. DAverage main: $13 EPuainako Center, 2100 Kanoelehua Ave., Suite 101, Hilo P808/935–3113 wwww.foodland.com/stores/sack-n-save-hilo.

h Hotels

Hale Kai Hawaii Suites

$ | B&B/INN | On a bluff above Honolii surfing beach, this modern, 5,400-square-foot home is 2 miles from downtown Hilo and features four rooms—each with patio, deluxe bedding, and grand ocean views within earshot of the surf. Pros: daily fresh breakfast items in room; intimate, romantic vibe; free on-site parking. Cons: no kids under 13; just outside walking distance to downtown Hilo; no air-conditioning. DRooms from: $199 E111 Honolii Pl., Hilo P808/935–6330 wwww.halekaihawaii.com a4 rooms XFree Breakfast.

The Inn at Kulaniapia Falls

$$ | B&B/INN | Overlooking downtown Hilo and the ocean beyond, this inn sits next to a 120-foot waterfall that tumbles into a 300-foot-wide natural pond—enticing for swimming, conditions permitting. Pros: guest rooms in different buildings; delicious full breakfast (not included with cabins); eco-friendly option. Cons: isolated location; paved road is dark at night (drive slow); no air-conditioning. DRooms from: $231 E100 Kulaniapia Dr., Hilo P808/935–6789 wwww.waterfall.net a14 rooms XFree Breakfast.

b Shopping

FOOD

HBig Island Candies

CHOCOLATE | A local legend in the cookie- and chocolate-making business, Big Island Candies is a must-see for connoisseurs of fine chocolates. The packaging is first-rate, which makes these world-class confections the ideal gift or souvenir. Enjoy a free cookie sample and a cup of Kona coffee as you watch through a window as sweets are being made. The store has many interesting products, but it is best known for its chocolate-dipped shortbread cookies. E585 Hinano St., Hilo P808/935–8890 wwww.bigislandcandies.com.

SHOPPING CENTERS

Prince Kuhio Plaza

MALL | FAMILY | The Big Island’s most comprehensive mall has indoor shopping, entertainment (a multiplex), and dining, including KFC, Hot Dog on a Stick, Cinnabon, Genki Sushi, IHOP, and Maui Tacos. The kids might like the arcade (near the food court), while you enjoy the stores, anchored by Macy’s and Old Navy. E111 E. Puainako St., Hilo P808/959–3555 wwww.princekuhioplaza.com.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Puna, and Kau

Dynamic, dramatic, and diverse, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park encompasses 333,308 acres across two active shield volcanoes: Kilauea and Mauna Loa. The sparsely populated areas of the Puna and Kau districts surround the park to the northeast and southwest, respectively.

One of the state’s most popular visitor destinations, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park—a UNESCO World Heritage site and International Biosphere Reserve—beckons visitors to explore the sacred home of the fire goddess Pele, whose active presence shapes the primordial landscape. Presenting incomparable scenic, geological, and ecological attractions, the park is a must-see destination, whether for a half-day trek or a weeklong deep dive into this unique place. The area and the park have recovered from the damaging events of the 2018 Kilauea eruption that rocked the region for months, beginning with the collapse of the Puu Oo Vent in the lower East Rift Zone on April 30, 2018. Soon thereafter, the famed lava lake at Halemaumau Crater, known for its ethereal nighttime glow, disappeared for several years, only to return once more in December 2020. It has been putting on a show intermittently ever since. The seismic events of 2018 at the summit did cause permanent damage, however, to the Jaggar Museum and the Hawaii Volcano Observatory facility that overlooked the crater; both are closed.

Visitors can explore almost all the sights and trails that were open prior to the 2018 eruption. While the dramatic changes to the Summit Caldera are evident to anyone who visited the park before the 2018 eruption, most of the park’s favorite attractions survived intact including Thurston Lava Tube, Devastation Trail, and Kilauea Iki Trail. Although it’s hard to keep up with the on-again, off-again nature of Kilauea when eruptions within Halemaumau Crater come to a pause, there are always plenty of activities such as hiking, biking, and picnicking to enjoy at any given time.

Located just outside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, the artsy, forested enclave of Volcano Village features galleries, glassblowing studios, cafés, restaurants, boutiques, and a Sunday farmers’ market. Accommodations are plentiful here. When visiting Volcano Village, you can partake in wine tastings and tours at a local winery, go bird-watching, or ride a bike along quiet, flat streets. Nearby but inside the park, the Kilauea Military Camp has an arcade, bowling alley, a general store, and the Lava Lounge cocktail bar, all open to the public. And of course, you can always take in the nighttime celestial sights or the ever-changing daytime skies unveiling random rain showers, rainbows, rolling clouds, or crystal clear, sunny weather.

The districts of Kau and Puna lie adjacent to each other and are big and sparse, requiring lots of drive time to get to the places of most interest. The Kau area is known for its wide-open spaces, vast desert regions, rugged coastline, dense macadamia groves, and windswept ranchlands. The Puna district encompasses Lower and Upper Puna.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

The 27-mile drive on Highway 19 from Hilo to Volcano (all through Upper Puna) takes about 40 minutes. From downtown Kailua-Kona, the drive requires traversing Saddle Road to Hilo and then heading up to Volcano; the one-way drive takes approximately 2½ hours. Heading from South Kona through South Point to the park, the drive along Highway 11 takes about two hours. The park itself is easy to drive around, as there are only two main roads: Chain of Craters Road and Crater Rim Drive.

TOURS

Volcano Art Center Forest Tour

WALKING TOURS | Volcano Art Center offers a free Monday morning forest tour where visitors can learn about old-growth koa and ohia rain forests. These hour-long walks take place on easily traversed gravel trails, rain or shine. No reservations are required, but a group of five or more is recommended. The center offers additional customized rain forest tours, as well as forest restoration activities. EVolcano Art Center, 99-150 Crater Rim Dr., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park P866/967–8222 for administration, 808/967–7565 for gallery wwww.volcanoartcenter.org AFree.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is open 24/7. When you arrive at the park entrance during normal visiting hours, you’ll receive a complimentary, detailed map and brochure about the park. The park entrance fee (good for seven days) is $30 per vehicle, $15 per pedestrian, and $25 per motorcycle. Inside the Kilauea Visitor Center, trail guide booklets written by park geologists are available for less than $3 each. Operated by Hawaii Pacific Parks, the park store features educational materials, apparel, gifts, books, and art. A small theater plays educational films about the history of the park, and park rangers are available to answer questions. There is always an itinerary of ranger-led activities. lPurchase the Hawaii Tri-Park Annual Pass for $55, which allows full access to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park on the Big Island, and Haleakala National Park on Maui.

Volcano Village

Located right outside the park boundary and surrounded by rain forest, Volcano Village is a residential neighborhood that offers vacation rental accommodations, B&Bs, a gas station, a post office, an art school, galleries, shops, a general store, and a fun Sunday farmers’ market. The immediate area also has a country club and golf course, as well as the popular Volcano Winery. Next door to the winery, the Keauhou Bird Conservation Center is not open to the public, but if you listen closely, you may be able to hear the call of the highly endangered alala (Hawaiian crow), a species being bred in captivity at the center.

s Sights

Volcano Farmers’ Market

MARKET | Local produce, flowers, crafts, and food products, including fresh-baked breads, pastries, coffee, pancakes, fresh coconuts with straws, and homemade Thai specialties, are available every Sunday morning from 6 to 10 at this decidedly down-home farmers’ market in Volcano Village. It’s best to get there early, before 7, as vendors tend to sell out of the best stuff quickly. There’s also a small bookstore (paperbacks 50¢, hardcovers $1, and magazines 10¢) and a thrift store with clothes and knickknacks. The market is held in the covered Cooper Center, so it’s safe from the rain. ECooper Center, 19-4030 Wright Rd., Volcano P808/936–9705 wwww.thecoopercenter.org CClosed Mon.–Sat.

Volcano Garden Arts

ART GALLERY | Located on beautifully landscaped grounds dotted with intriguing sculptures, this delightful gallery and garden lend credence to Volcano Village’s reputation as an artists’ haven. The complex includes an eclectic gallery representing more than 100 artists, a gourmet organic café in redwood buildings built in 1908, and a cute, one-bedroom vacation cottage, available for rent. If you’re lucky, you’ll get to meet the award-winning owner/caretaker of this enclave, the multitalented Ira Ono, known for his mixed-media art, recycled trash creations, and friendly personality. E19-3834 Old Volcano Rd., Volcano P808/985–8979 wwww.volcanogardenarts.com AFree CCafé closed Mon.–Wed.

HVolcano Winery

WINERY | Not all volcanic soils are ideal for the cultivation of grapes, but this winery grows its own grapes and produces some interesting vintages. The Macadamia Nut Honey Wine is a nutty, very sweet after-dinner drink. The Infusion Tea Wine pairs estate-grown black tea with South Kona’s fermented macadamia nut honey for a smooth concoction perfect for brunch through early evening. Though this isn’t Napa Valley, the vintners take their wine seriously, and the staff is friendly and knowledgeable. Wine tasting and flights are available; you can also enjoy wine and cheese inside or in a shaded picnic area. A gift store carries a selection of local crafts. E35 Pii Mauna Dr., Volcano jPast entrance to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, by golf course P808/967–7772 wwww.volcanowinery.com AFree; tastings from $15 for a flight of 6 wines.

r Restaurants

Kilauea Lodge Restaurant

$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | At this historic lodge in the heart of Volcano Village, the fare ranges from gourmet grass-fed Big Island beef burgers and locally sourced lamb burgers to Cajun shrimp and sausage pasta, catch of the day, and farm-fresh salads. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days a week. Known for: Fireplace of Friendship; fine dining with prices to match; popular Sunday brunch. DAverage main: $30 E19-3948 Old Volcano Rd., Volcano P808/967–7366 wwww.kilauealodge.com.

Lava Rock Cafe

$ | DINER | FAMILY | This is an affordable place to grab a sandwich or a coffee and check your email (Wi-Fi is free with purchase of a meal) before heading to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The homey, sit-down diner caters to families, serving up heaping plates of comfort food like pancakes and French toast for breakfast; on the lunch menu, burger options include bacon and cheese, turkey, and paniolo (cowboy) burgers made with Hawaii grass-fed beef. Known for: roadhouse atmosphere; volcano-themed floors; full bar. DAverage main: $18 E19-3972 Old Volcano Hwy., Volcano jNext to Kilauea General Store P808/967–8526 CNo dinner Sun. Closed Mon.

Thai Thai Bistro and Bar

$$ | THAI | FAMILY | The food is authentic and the prices are reasonable at this little Volcano Village find with Thai art and silk wall hangings in the pleasant dining room. A steaming-hot plate of curry is the perfect antidote to a chilly day at the volcano, and the chicken satay is excellent—the peanut dipping sauce a good blend of sweet and spicy. Known for: reliable Thai cuisine with plenty of spice; full bar; vegan and gluten-free options. DAverage main: $30 E19-4084 Old Volcano Rd., Volcano P808/967–7969 wwww.lavalodge.com CClosed Wed. and Thurs.

h Hotels

Chalet Kilauea Rainforest Hotel

$ | B&B/INN | FAMILY | Quirky yet upscale, this accommodation features four artistically distinctive rooms that unveil beautiful views of the rain forest from a great location five minutes from Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Pros: unique decor; friendly front desk; hot tub on property. Cons: space heaters; stairs to upper floor; can get cold at night. DRooms from: $75 E19-4178 Wright Rd., Volcano P808/967–7786, 800/937–7786 wwww.volcano-hawaii.com a4 rooms XNo Meals.

Kilauea Lodge

$$$ | HOTEL | A mile from the entrance to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, this lodge built as a YMCA camp in the 1930s is now a pleasant inn, tastefully furnished with European antiques, photographs, and authentic Hawaiian quilts. Pros: great restaurant; close to volcano; historic ambience. Cons: no TV or phone in lodge rooms; 45 minutes to downtown Hilo; books up quickly. DRooms from: $300 E19-3948 Old Volcano Rd., Volcano j1 mile northeast of national park P808/967–7366 wwww.kilauealodge.com a12 rooms XNo Meals.

Volcano Village Estates

$$ | B&B/INN | FAMILY | A stately and comfortable Queen Anne–style mansion, the Dillingham House is the centerpiece of the property and was built in the 1930s as a summer home for a wealthy Scotsman (the property is listed on the State Historic Register). Pros: unique architecture; within walking distance of HVNP; private location. Cons: no TVs; simple breakfast offerings; can get cold at night. DRooms from: $275 E11-3968 Hale Ohia Rd., Volcano P808/967–7986, 800/455–3803 wvolcanovillageestates.com a18 units XFree Breakfast.

HVolcano Village Lodge

$$$ | B&B/INN | Hospitality abounds at this luxurious B&B in a secluded rain forest, where the separate suites (connected by paths) offer amenities including fine furnishings, dining niches, jetted bathtubs, heated blankets, and private forest entrances. Pros: secluded and quiet; hospitable staff; outdoor hot tub. Cons: no covered parking; far from Hilo town; no restaurants within walking distance. DRooms from: $310 E19-4183 Kawailehua Rd., Volcano P808/985–9500 wwww.volcanovillagelodge.com a5 suites XFree Breakfast.

Summit Area

In the heart of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, a primeval landscape unfolds at the summit of Kilauea volcano, where steam rises continuously from cracks in the earth and volcanic gases create malodorous sulfur banks. Here, Halemaumau Crater’s on-and-off eruption has been taking place throughout the decades, creating a lake that most recently has been putting on a fiery extravaganza within view of several observation points accessible to the public. In addition to the many geological sights, the summit area of the park includes Kilauea Visitor Center, Volcano Art Center Gallery, and Volcano House—a landmark hotel perched above the rim of Kilauea Caldera. The visitor center is a good place to begin your park adventure.

s Sights

Devastation Trail

TRAIL | A paved pathway takes visitors across a barren lavascape strewn with chunky cinders that descended from towering lava fountains during the 1959 eruption of nearby Kilauea Iki Crater. The easy 1-mile (round-trip) hike ends at the edge of the Kilauea Iki Crater. This must-see view of the crater could yield such memorable sights as white-tailed tropic birds gliding in the breeze or a rainbow stretching above the crater’s rim after a sunlit rain shower. Easy. EHawaii Volcanoes National Park jTrailhead: 4 miles from visitor center at intersection of Crater Rim Dr. and Chain of Craters Rd. P808/985–6101 wwww.nps.gov/havo.

HHalemaumau Crater

VOLCANO | For Native Hawaiians, Halemaumau Crater is the sacred home of Pele, the fire goddess; for scientists at the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory, this mighty pit crater within the massive Kilauea Caldera is an ever-changing force to be reckoned with. Prior to Kilauea’s 2018 eruption, Halemaumau’s visible lava lake awed visitors for 10 consecutive years. Then Puu Oo Vent, which had been erupting farther away in the East Rift Zone for 35 years, collapsed in April 2018. As lava from the vent drained, so did the lava lake at Halemaumau Crater. A relentless series of seismic events at the summit followed, doubling the diameter of Halemaumau Crater and deepening it by 1,300 feet, after which a lake of water began forming, eventually growing to 160 feet deep. On December 20, 2020, an eruption within the crater instantly vaporized the water lake, sending molten lava cascading into the crater from vents within the walls and commencing the return of an active lava lake to Halemaumau, which has erupted intermittently in the years that followed through 2023 and likely beyond. There are many places in the park to view the magnificent crater, including at the Steaming Bluff Overlook and at Volcano House hotel. To get a glimpse of the lava lake during an eruption phase, there is a lookout area between the Steam Vents and the former Jaggar Museum area; another lookout point is on the crater’s other side near the Devastation Trail parking lot. lFor the best lava-viewing experience of Halemaumau Crater during an eruption phase, visit the park after 10 pm when crowds are smaller. ECrater Rim Dr., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park P808/985–6101 wwww.nps.gov/havo.

HKilauea Iki Trail

TRAIL | The stunning 4-mile loop hike descends 400 feet into a massive crater via a forested nature trail. When you hike across the crater floor, you’re actually walking on a solidified lava lake. Still steaming in places, the crater is dotted with baby ohia trees emerging from the cracks. Venture across the crater floor to the Puu Puai cinder cone that was formed by spatter from a towering lava fountain during the 1959 Kilauea Iki eruption. There are three different trailheads for Kilauea Iki; the main one, which takes two or three hours, begins at the Kilauea Iki Overlook parking lot off Crater Rim Drive. You can also access the crater from Devastation Trail or Puu Puai on the other side. lBring water, snacks, a hat, sunscreen, and hooded rain gear, as weather can change at a moment’s notice. Easy. ECrater Rim Dr., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park jTrailhead: 3 miles from visitor center P808/985–6011 wwww.nps.gov/havo.

Kilauea Military Camp

NATIONAL PARK | FAMILY | Located inside the park, Kilauea Military Camp, established in 1916, offers visitor accommodations to members of the military and their families but also has places open to the public, including an arcade, bowling alley, diner, buffet, general store, and gas station. The Lava Lounge cocktail bar is open nightly and features live music on weekends. E99-252 Crater Rim Dr., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park P808/967–8333 wwww.kilaueamilitarycamp.com.

Kilauea Visitor Center

VISITOR CENTER | FAMILY | Rangers and volunteers greet people and answer all questions at this visitor center, located just beyond the park entrance. There are lots of educational murals and displays, maps, and guidebooks. Also check out the daily itinerary of ranger-led activities. The gift shop operated by the Hawaii Pacific Park Association stocks excellent art, books, apparel, and more. A small theater plays documentaries about the park. E1 Crater Rim Dr., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park P808/985–6011 wwww.nps.gov/havo.

Steam Vents and Sulphur Banks

VOLCANO | A short walk from the Kilauea Visitor Center leads to the pungent yet fascinating Sulphur Banks, where gases composed of hydrogen sulfide produce a smell akin to rotten eggs. Most of the rocks surrounding the vents are chemically stained with a yellow hue due to constant gas exposure. Throughout the surrounding landscape, dozens of active steam vents emit white, billowing vapors that originate from groundwater heated by volcanic rocks. Located on the caldera’s edge, Steaming Bluff is a short walk from a nearby parking area. lThe best steam vents are across the road from the main steam vent parking area; they vary in size and are scattered alongside the dirt trails. ECrater Rim Dr., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park jWithin walking distance of Kilauea Visitor Center P808/985–6101 wwww.nps.gov/havo.

Thurston Lava Tube (Nahuku)

NATURE SIGHT | FAMILY | One of the park’s star attractions, Thurston Lava Tube (named “Nahuku” in Hawaiian) spans 600 feet underground. The massive cavelike tube, discovered in 1913, was formed by hot molten lava traveling through the channel. To reach the entrance of the tube, visitors descend a series of stairs surrounded by Hawaiian rain forest and the sounds of native birds. The Kilauea eruption of 2018 resulted in an almost two-year closure of the tube. During the closure, the drainage system was improved to reduce standing water on the cave’s floor, and electrical lines and lighting were replaced. Visitors should not touch the walls or delicate tree root systems that grow down through the ceiling. lParking is limited near the tube. If the lot is full, you can park at the Kilauea Iki Overlook parking lot, ½ mile away. ECrater Rim Dr., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park j1½ miles from the park entrance P808/985–6101 wwww.nps.gov/havo.

Volcano Art Center Gallery

ART GALLERY | Occupying a portion of the original Volcano House hotel built in 1877, this mesmerizing art gallery, within walking distance of the hotel, has showcased works by local artists since 1974. From stained and handblown glass to wood crafts, paintings, sculptures, block prints, jewelry, photographs, and more, the gallery features fine art (for sale) that depicts indigenous and cultural themes of Hawaii Island. In addition, live hula shows in the ancient style are often featured on the lawn that fronts the gallery. ECrater Rim Dr., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park jWithin walking distance of Kilauea Visitor Center P808/967–8222 wwww.volcanoartcenter.org.

r Restaurants

The Rim at Volcano House

$$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | This fine-dining restaurant overlooks the rim of Kilauea Caldera and the expansive Halemaumau Crater. Featuring two bars (one of which is adjacent to a lounge) and live entertainment nightly, the restaurant highlights island-inspired cuisine and locally sourced ingredients. Known for: views of Halemaumau Crater; Hawaii Ranchers 14-oz rib eye; Taste of Hawaii lunch menu. DAverage main: $25 EVolcano House, 1 Crater Rim Dr., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park P808/756–9625 wwww.hawaiivolcanohouse.com.

h Hotels

HVolcano House

$$$ | HOTEL | Hawaii’s oldest hotel—and the only one in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park—is committed to sustainable practices and promoting Hawaiian culture and history through its locally sourced restaurants, artisan-crafted decor, and eco-focused guest programs. Pros: unbeatable location; views of crater; sense of place and history. Cons: basic amenities; books up quickly; some rooms have parking lot views. DRooms from: $285 E1 Crater Rim Dr., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park P808/756–9625 wwww.hawaiivolcanohouse.com a33 rooms XNo Meals.

b Shopping

In addition to recreational activities, Kilauea Military Camp has a general store and a gas station, making it the best place in the park to stop if you need supplies. The park visitor center has a gift store, and Volcano Art Center Gallery sells lovely crafts and fine art. Volcano-themed souvenirs, apparel, and art can be found at Volcano House’s two gift shops.

Greater Park Area

Spanning landscapes from sea level to the summits of two of the most active volcanoes in the world, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park boasts a diverse landscape with rain forests, rugged coastlines, surreal lava fields, and sacred cultural sites. There’s also a sense of peace and tranquility here, despite the upheavals of nature. A drive down Chain of Craters Road toward the ocean allows you to access the greater area of the park, affording opportunities for exploration beyond the summit destinations. Along the way are birding trails, backcountry hikes, two campgrounds, pit craters, and a dramatic sea arch at the coast.

s Sights

HChain of Craters Road

SCENIC DRIVE | The coastal region of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is accessed via the spectacularly scenic Chain of Craters Road, which descends 18.8 miles to sea level. You could drive it without stopping, but it’s well worth spending a few hours or a day exploring the stops and trails. Winding past ancient craters and modern eruption sites, this scenic road was realigned in 1979 after parts of it were buried by the Mauna Ulu eruption. Marked stops along the way include Lua Manu Crater, Hilina Pali Road, Pauahi Crater, the Mauna Ulu eruption site, Kealakomo Lookout, and Puu Loa Petroglyphs. As you approach the coast, panoramic ocean vistas prevail. The last marked stop features views of the stunning natural Holei Sea Arch from an overlook. In recent decades, many former sights along the coast have been covered in lava, including a black-sand beach and the old campground. EHawaii Volcanoes National Park P808/985–6101 wwww.nps.gov/havo.

HMauna Ulu Trail

TRAIL | The Mauna Ulu lava flow presents an incredible variety of geological attractions within a moderate, 2½-mile round-trip hike. The diverse lava landscape was created during the 1969–74 Mauna Ulu flow, which produced enormous “lava falls” the size of Niagara Falls. Visitors can see everything from lava tree molds and fissure vents to cinder cones and portions of the old highway still exposed under the flow. Hawaiian nene geese roam the area, feeding on ripe ohelo berries. Hike to the top of a small hill that survived the flow for incredible views of the distant geological landmarks. On clear days, you can see Mauna Loa, Maunakea, and the Pacific Ocean from atop this hill, known as Puu Huluhulu. lPurchase the Mauna Ulu trail booklet at the Kilauea Visitor Center for under $3. This excellent resource includes trailside attractions, trail maps, history, and photographs. Moderate. EChain of Craters Rd., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park jTrailhead: 7 miles from Kilauea Visitor Center P808/985–6101 wwww.nps.gov/havo.

Puna

The Puna District begins 6 miles from the town of Hilo; Pahoa is 19 miles south of downtown Hilo.

The Puna District is wild in every sense of the word, with a jagged black coastline that is changing all the time. The albizzia trees grow out of control, forming canopies over roads; the residential areas are remote; and the people—well, there’s something about living in an area that could be destroyed by lava at any moment (as Kalapana was in 1990, or Kapoho in 1960, or Kapoho Vacationland and half of Leilani Estates in 2018) that makes the norms of modern society seem silly. Vets, surfers, hippies, yoga teachers, and other free spirits abound. And there are also a few ruffians. So it is that Puna has its well-deserved reputation as an “outlaw” region of the Big Island. That said, it’s well worth a detour, especially if you’re near this part of the island. Some mighty fine people-watching opportunities exist in Pahoa, a funky little town that the “Punatics” call home.

This is also farm country for an array of agricultural products. Local farmers grow everything from orchids and anthuriums to papayas, bananas, and macadamia nuts. Several of the island’s larger, rural, residential subdivisions are nestled between Keaau and Pahoa, including Hawaiian Paradise Park, Orchidland Estates, Hawaiian Acres, and Hawaiian Beaches. When dusk falls here, the air fills with the high-pitched symphony of thousands of coqui frogs. Though they look cute and seem harmless, the invasive frogs are considered pests by local residents weary of their shrieking, all-night calls.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

The sprawling Puna District stretches from the mountain to the sea. If you’re staying in Hilo for the night, driving around Lower Puna to Pahoa and beyond is a great way to spend a morning.

s Sights

HKilauea Caverns of Fire

CAVE | This way-out adventure explores the underbelly of the world’s most active volcano via the Kazamura Lava Tube system. The world’s longest lava tube system—more than 40 miles long, with sections up to 80 feet wide and 80 feet tall—is 500 to 700 years old and filled with bizarre lava formations and mind-blowing colors. Tours, customized to groups’ interests and skill levels, focus on conservation and education and take visitors through beautiful lava caves unlike any others in the world. The tours are by reservation only and are well worth the extra detour (about 40 minutes off the main highway) and planning. Equipment is included. lWhen you make your reservation, you will be given detailed directions to the location. EHawaiian Acres, off Hwy. 11, between Kurtistown and Mountain View P808/217–2363 wwww.kilaueacavernsoffire.com A$39 for 1-hour walking tour; $99 for 3-hour adventure tour; $269 day in the cave.

Lava Tree State Monument

STATE/PROVINCIAL PARK | Tree molds that rise like blackened smokestacks formed here in 1790, when a lava flow swept through the ohia forest. Some reach as high as 12 feet. A meandering trail provides close-up looks at some of Hawaii’s tropical plants and trees, and there are restrooms and a couple of picnic pavilions and tables. lMosquitoes live here in abundance, so be prepared. EHwy. 132, Pahoa P808/974–6200 wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp AFree.

Pahoa Town

TOWN | Founded to serve the sugar plantation community, this little town is reminiscent of the Wild West, with its wooden boardwalks and vintage buildings. Secondhand stores, tie-dye/hemp clothing boutiques, smoke shops, and art and antiques galleries add to the “trippy” experience. In 2014, lava flows from Kilauea almost intruded into the town, destroying a couple of farmers’ sheds as residents braced for the worst when plumes billowed in the near distance and flows glowed after dark. Then it all stopped within 500 yards of Pahoa Village Road, again ensuring the town’s status as a survivor—until 2018, when Pahoa became command central for disaster assistance, Hawaii County Civil Defense, and reporters covering the nearby destructive eruption of Kilauea. Today Pahoa’s funky main street—with buildings dating from 1910—boasts a handful of excellent, local-style eateries. To get here, turn southeast onto Highway 130 at Keaau, drive 11 miles and follow signs to the Village. (Traffic on Highway 130 can back up during rush hour.) EPahoa.

r Restaurants

Kaleo’s Bar and Grill

$ | HAWAIIAN | Pahoa Town isn’t known for gourmet dining choices, but Kaleo’s is pretty sophisticated for a small-town restaurant and remains a local favorite. Hawaiian-inspired fare blends the gamut of the island’s international influences with tempura ahi rolls, grilled burgers, and catch of the day. Known for: good people-watching from the porch; nightly entertainment; jumbo calamari. DAverage main: $17 E15-2969 Pahoa Village Rd., Pahoa P808/965–5600 wwww.kaleoshawaii.com.

Luquin’s Cantina

$ | MEXICAN | FAMILY | Long an island favorite for tasty, albeit greasy, Mexican grub, this landmark has made a comeback in funky Pahoa in a different space after a fire destroyed the original restaurant in 2017. Tacos are great (go for crispy), especially when stuffed with grilled, seasoned local fish. Known for: good service; affordable fare; delicious pork carnitas. DAverage main: $9 E15-1448 Kahakai Blvd., Pahoa P808/333–3390 wwww.luquins.com.

Kau

South Point in the District of Kau is 50 miles south of Kailua-Kona.

Perhaps the most desolate region of the island, the Kau District is nevertheless home to some spectacular sights. Mark Twain wrote some of his finest prose here, where macadamia nut farms, remote green-sand beaches, and tiny communities offer rugged, largely undiscovered beauty. The drive from Kailua-Kona to windswept South Point winds away from the ocean through a surreal moonscape of lava fields and swaths of ohia forest. At the end of the 12-mile, two-lane road to South Point, you can park and hike about an hour to Papakolea (Green Sand Beach). Back on the highway, you’ll descend into Waiohinu and the village of Naalehu, then pass by vast ranchlands that unfold into lush vistas, sheer ocean cliffs, and verdant pastures. The little town of Pahala is just past the black-sand beach of Punaluu, a nesting place of the Hawaiian hawksbill turtle.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Sightseeing in Kau is usually combined with a quick trip to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. If you’re driving all the way from Kona, this is probably cramming too much into one day, however. Visiting the volcano fills up at least a day (two is better), and the sights of this southern end of the island are worth more time. Instead, make Green Sand Beach or Punaluu a full beach day, and see some nearby sights on the way there or back. Bring sturdy shoes, water, and a sun hat if Green Sand Beach is your choice (reaching the beach requires a hike). It’s much calmer and you can sometimes snorkel at Punaluu, but use caution at all Hawaii beaches.

s Sights

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: Kahuku Unit

NATIONAL PARK | Located off Highway 11 at mile marker 70.5, the Kahuku section of the park takes visitors over many trails through ancient lava flows and native forests. Ecological wonders abound in this beautiful but isolated region that encompasses more than 116,000 acres. Guided hikes with knowledgeable rangers are a regularly scheduled highlight. EHwy. 11, at mile marker 70.5, Kahuku P808/985–6101 wwww.nps.gov/havo A$30 per car, $15 for pedestrians CClosed Mon. and Tues.

Ka Lae (South Point)

NATURE SIGHT | According to ancient Hawaiian lore, the first Polynesians came ashore at South Point, known in Hawaiian as “Ka Lae.” The southernmost point of land in the United States, the South Point Complex is a National Historic Landmark known for the oldest Hawaiian settlement in the Islands, uncovered by archaeologists in 1956. Old canoe-mooring holes, still visible, were carved through the rocks, possibly by settlers from Tahiti as early as AD 750. Today, visitors come here for the views and access to Green Sand Beach. To get to the beach, drive 12 miles down the turnoff road, past rows of giant electricity-producing windmills powered by the nearly constant winds sweeping across this coastal plain. Bear left when the road forks, and park in the lot at the end. Walk past the boat hoists toward the little lighthouse. South Point is just past the lighthouse at the southernmost cliff. You may see brave locals jumping off the cliffs and then climbing up rusty old ladders, but swimming here is not recommended. Don’t leave anything of value in your car. The area is isolated and without services. Green Sand Beach is a 40-minute hike down the coast. ESouth Point Rd. off Mamalahoa Hwy., near mile marker 70, Naalehu AFree.

Manuka State Wayside

STATE/PROVINCIAL PARK | FAMILY | Located near the subdivision of Ocean View, this lowland forest reserve spreads across several relatively recent lava flows, offering a semi-rugged trail that follows a 2-mile loop past a pit crater and winding around interesting trees such as hau and kukui (candlenut). You can wander through the well-maintained arboretum, snap photos of the eerie forest, and let the kids scramble around trees so large they can’t get their arms around them. The pathways can get muddy and rough, so bring appropriate shoes if you plan to hike. Large populations of the Hawaiian hoary bat inhabit the area, which, in totality, encompasses 25,000 acres of forest reserve. Restrooms and picnic areas are available. EHwy. 11, north of mile marker 81, Naalehu P808/974–6200 wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp AFree.

Pahala

TOWN | About 16 miles east of Naalehu, beyond Punaluu Beach Park, Highway 11 passes directly by this sleepy little town, once a thriving sugar-plantation town and still inhabited by retired cane workers and their descendants. You’ll miss it if you blink. There is a Longs Pharmacy, a gas station, a small supermarket, a hospital, a bank, and a post office, but not much else in terms of sightseeing. EPahala.

Wood Valley Temple (Nechung Temple)

TEMPLE | Behind the remote town of Pahala, this serene and beautiful Tibetan Buddhist temple, established in 1973, has hosted more than 50 well-known lamas, including the Dalai Lama on two occasions. Known as Nechung Dorje Drayang Ling (Immutable Island of Melodious Sound), this peaceful place welcomes all creeds. You can visit and meditate, leave an offering, walk the lush gardens shared by strutting peacocks, browse the gift shop, or stay in the temple’s guesthouse. E96-2285 Wood Valley Rd., Pahala P808/928–8539 wwww.nechung.org A$5.

; Beaches

The rocky coasts of Kau don’t have sparkling white-sand beaches, but the black- and green-sand beaches here are well worth the visit. There’s also the chance to see endangered hawksbill or Hawaiian green sea turtles.

Papakolea Beach (Green Sand Beach)

BEACH | Those tired of the same old white- or black-sand beaches can lace up good hiking shoes or sneakers to get to this olive-green crescent, one of the most unusual beaches on the island. It lies at the base of Puu O Mahana, at Mahana Bay, where a cinder cone formed during an early eruption of Mauna Loa. The greenish tint is caused by an accumulation of olivine crystals that form in volcanic eruptions. The dry, barren landscape is totally surreal but stunning, as aquamarine waters lap on green sand against reddish cliffs. Drive down to South Point; at the end of the 12-mile paved road, take the road to the left and park at the end. To reach the beach, follow the 2¼-mile coastal trail, which ends in a steep and dangerous descent down the cliffside on an unimproved trail. The hike takes about two hours each way and can get hot and windy, so bring lots of drinking water. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are no longer permitted on the trail. The surf is often rough and swimming can be hazardous due to strong currents, so caution is advised. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; walking. EHwy. 11, Naalehu j2½ miles northeast of South Point.

HPunaluu Black Sand Beach Park

BEACH | A must-do on a south-southeast-bound trip to the volcano, this easily accessible black-sand beach is backed by low dunes, brackish ponds, and tall coco palms. The shoreline is jagged, reefed, and rocky. Most days, large groups of sea turtles nap on the sand—a stunning sight. Resist the urge to get too close or disturb them; they’re protected by federal and state law, and fines for harassment can be hefty. Removing black sand is also prohibited. lExtremely strong rip currents prevail, so only experienced ocean swimmers should consider getting in the water here. A popular stop for locals and tour buses alike, this beach park can get busy; the north parking lot is usually quieter. Shade from palm trees provides an escape from the sun, and at the northern end of the beach lie the ruins of Kaneeleele Heiau, an old Hawaiian temple. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: walking. EHwy. 11, between mile markers 55 and 56, Naalehu j27 miles south of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park P808/961–8311 AFree.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Punaluu Bake Shop

$ | CAFÉ | FAMILY | Billed as the southernmost bakery in the United States, this is a good spot to grab a snack or lunch. Hawaiian sweetbread is the specialty here. Known for: sweet bread; all goods baked on-site; malasada (Portuguese doughnuts) glazed with lilikoi (passion fruit). DAverage main: $8 E5642 Mamalahoa Hwy., Naalehu P808/929–7343 wwww.bakeshophawaii.com CNo dinner.

h Hotels

Kalaekilohana Inn and Retreat

$$$ | B&B/INN | You wouldn’t expect to find a top-notch B&B in Kau, but this grand residence offers large private suites with locally harvested hardwood floors and private lanai with ocean and mountain views. Pros: big, comfy beds with down comforters; beautiful decor reminiscent of old Hawaii; delicious breakfast. Cons: not for children under 12; no pool; very limited nearby shopping. DRooms from: $379 E94-2152 South Point Rd., Naalehu P808/939–8052 wwww.kau-hawaii.com a4 suites XFree Breakfast.

Activities and Tours

With the Big Island’s predictably mild year-round climate, it’s no wonder you’ll find an emphasis on outdoor activities. After all, this is the home of the annual Ironman World Championship triathlon and numerous other world-class athletic events. Whether you’re an avid hiker or a beginning bicyclist, a casual golfer or a serious scuba diver, there are plenty of adventures to lure you away from your resort or condo.

You can explore by bike, helicopter, ATV, zip line, or horse, or you can put on your hiking boots and use your own horsepower. No matter how you get around, you’ll be treated to breathtaking backdrops along the Big Island’s 266-mile coastline and within its 4,028 square miles (and still growing!). Aerial tours take in any eruption activity and lava flows, as well as the island’s gorgeous tropical valleys, gulches, and coastal plains. Trips into the backcountry wilderness explore the rain forest, private ranchlands, and coffee farms, while sleepy sugar plantation villages offer a glimpse of Hawaii’s bygone days. Golfers will find acclaimed championship golf courses at the Kohala Coast resorts—Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Autograph Collection; the Westin Hapuna Beach Resort; Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection; and the Waikoloa area resorts, among others.

The ancient Hawaiians, who took much of their daily sustenance from the ocean, also enjoyed playing in the water, so it follows that visitors want to get out onto the water as well. In fact, surfing was the sport of kings, born in the Hawaiian Islands. Though it’s easy to be lulled into whiling away the day baking in the sun on a white-, gold-, black-, or green-sand beach, getting into or onto the water is a highlight of most trips.

All the Hawaiian Islands are surrounded by the Pacific Ocean and blessed with a temperate latitude, making them some of the world’s greatest natural playgrounds. Still, certain experiences are even better on the Big Island of Hawaii: nighttime diving trips to see manta rays; deep-sea fishing in Kona’s fabled waters, where dozens of Pacific blue marlin of 1,000 pounds or more have been caught; and kayaking in pristine bays, to name a few.

From almost any point on the Big Island, the ocean is not far. From body boarding and snorkeling to kayaking and surfing, there is a water sport for everyone. For most activities, you can rent gear from a local vendor and go it alone. Or book a group excursion with experienced guides who offer convenience and security, as well as special insights into Hawaii’s marine life, ecology, history, and culture. Want to try surfing? Contrary to what you may have heard, there are waves on the Big Island. You can take lessons from pros who take you to special spots and promise to have you standing the first day out.

The Kona and Kohala Coasts of West Hawaii have the largest number of ocean sports outfitters and tour operators. They operate from the small-boat harbors and piers in Kailua-Kona, Keauhou, and Kawaihae, and out of the Kohala Coast resorts. There are also several outfitters in East Hawaii.

As a general rule, the waves are gentler here than on the other Islands, especially in summer, but there are a few things to be aware of. First, never turn your back on the ocean. It’s unlikely, but if conditions are right, a wave could come along and push you face-first into the sand or drag you out to sea. Second, when the Big Island does experience high surf, dangerous conditions prevail nearly everywhere and can change rapidly. Watch the ocean for a few minutes before going out to scan for waves, which arrive in sets, and wait for three to go by. If it looks too rough, don’t chance it. Third, realize that ultimately you must keep yourself safe. We strongly encourage you to obey lifeguards and high surf advisories, and heed the advice of outfitters from whom you rent equipment, and even advice from locals on shore. If you are not a strong swimmer, find a baby beach and use a life vest. It could save your trip—or even your life.

Aerial Tours

There’s nothing quite like the aerial view of a waterfall crashing down a couple thousand feet along a steep valley wall into cascading pools below. You can get this and other bird’s-eye views from a helicopter or a fixed-wing small plane. All operators pay strict attention to safety and will take off only if conditions are safe. lBefore you choose a company, be a savvy traveler, read up on the experience offered, and ask the right questions. What kind of aircraft do they fly? What is their safety record?

Blue Hawaiian Helicopters

FLIGHTSEEING | Hawaii Island’s premier aerial tour is on Blue Hawaiian’s roomy Eco-Star helicopters—so smooth and quiet you hardly realize you’re taking off. There are no worries about what seat you get because each has great views. Pilots are State of Hawaii–certified tour guides, too, so they are knowledgeable and experienced but not overly chatty. In the breathtaking Waimanu Valley, the helicopter hovers close to 2,600-foot cliffs and cascading waterfalls. Departing from Waikoloa, the two-hour Big Island Spectacular also takes in the incredible landscapes of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (over the permissible areas), as well as stunning windward valleys. Leaving from Hilo, the more affordable, 50-minute Circle of Fire tour showcases Kilauea Volcano and other major island sites. Should you wish to splurge, private charters are also offered. EWaikoloa Heliport, Hwy. 19, Waikoloa P808/961–5600 wwww.bluehawaiian.com AFrom $369.

HParadise Helicopters

FLIGHTSEEING | Even in areas where the volcano is not actively flowing, there’s plenty to see from the air, with great options from this locally owned and operated company. Departing from Kona, the Circle Island Experience and Experience Hawaii tours both fly over the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park area including the once-active Puu Oo vent. Departing from Hilo, the Doors-Off Lava and Rainforest Adventure offers an unforgettable excursion in a Hughes 500 helicopter for unobstructed views of Kilauea Volcano. Even when it’s erupting, volcanic flows are difficult to see in the daytime. That’s why our favorite flights are ones that tour the isolated valleys of the windward side, hovering for a breathtaking few minutes while you take 3,000-foot valleys. There are also options in which you land, take a hike through rugged rain forests or explore the beautiful Kohala region, as well as a number of charter options. lCheck online for monthly coupons and specials. EKailua-Kona P808/969–7392, 866/876–7422 wwww.paradisecopters.com AFrom $360.

Biking

The Big Island’s biking trails and road routes range from easy to moderate coastal rides to rugged backcountry wilderness treks that challenge the most serious cyclists. You can soak up the island’s storied scenic vistas and varied geography—from tropical rain forest to rolling ranch country, from high-country mountain meadows to dry lava deserts. It’s dry, windy, and hot on Kona’s and Kohala’s coastal trails, mountainous through South Kona, and cool, wet, and muddy in the upcountry Waimea and Volcano areas, as well as in lower Puna. There are long distances between towns, few bike lanes, narrow single-lane highways, and scanty services in the Kau, Puna, South Kona, and Kohala Coast areas, so plan accordingly for your weather, water, food, and lodging needs before setting out. lYour best bet is to book with an outfitter who has all the details covered.

BEST SPOTS

HKe Ala o Kulanihakoi (Kulani Trails)

BIKING | It has been called the state’s best mountain bike ride—if you want to get gnarly. The technically demanding ride, which passes majestic eucalyptus trees, is for advanced cyclists; muddy conditions prevail. To reach the trailhead from the intersection of Highway 11 and Highway 19 in Hilo, take Highway 19 south about 4 miles, turn right on Stainback Highway, and continue 2½ miles. Turn right at the Waiakea Arboretum and park near the gate. Once known as Kulani Trails, the newly renamed mountain bike system is now officially part of the state of Hawaii Na Ala Hele trail system, and a permit is no longer required. Download a copy of the trail map online. EStainback Hwy., Hilo wdlnr.hawaii.gov.

EQUIPMENT AND TOURS

Bike shops around the island offer daily or weekly rentals, and many resorts rent beach cruisers that can be used around the properties. Most outfitters can provide a bicycle rack for your car, and all have reduced rates for rentals longer than one day. All retailers offer excellent advice about where to go; they know the areas well. Hawaii Island Bikeshare (whawaiiislandbikeshare.org) offers access to bikes across the island at their well-placed stations, using a subscription key. One of the best and easiest ways to see the island is to take a bike tour.

Mid Pacific Wheels

BIKING | The oldest bike shop on the Big Island, this community-oriented shop near the university carries a full line of bikes and accessories and rents mountain bikes for exploring the Hilo area. The friendly staff provides expert advice on where to go and what to see and do on a self-guided tour. They also carry a large selection of cycling accessories, bikes, and repair parts. E1133C Manono St., Hilo P808/935–6211 wwww.midpacificwheelsllc.com AFrom $35/day.

Volcano Bike Tours

BIKING | This friendly outfitter rents e-bikes that you can use on self-guided excursions in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. You’ll take in fantastic sights from rain forests to craters to lava tubes. With an e-bike you can opt to use the pedal assist or not, depending on whether you want more of a workout. Use the self-guided map to follow the routes they recommend. E19-3972 Old Volcano Rd., Volcano P808/934–9199 wwww.bikevolcano.com ARentals from $119/day.

Bodyboarding and Bodysurfing

Although they share the same ocean, and sometimes the same surfing spots, there’s always been a little friction between the three types of board users—paddle, surf, and body. Fortunately, there’s usually enough room for all, even along the Big Island’s somewhat limited surf spots.

However, the different users generally do keep to their own separate areas. Often the body boarders, who lie on their bellies on shorter boards, stay closer to shore and leave the outside breaks to the board surfers. Or the board surfers may stick to one side of the beach and the body boarders to the other. The truth is, body boarding (often called “boogie boarding,” in homage to the first commercial manufacturer of this slick, little, flexible-foam board whose inventor debuted his creation at Honl’s Beach, right here in Kona) is a blast. Most surfers also sometimes carve waves on a body board, no matter how much of a purist they claim to be.

You’ll need a pair of short fins to get out to the bigger waves offshore, though novice body boarders should catch shorebreak waves only. Ask lifeguards or locals for the best spots, and of course heed high surf warnings. As for bodysurfing, you don’t need a board—just catch a wave and make like Superman going faster than a speeding bullet.

Paddleboarding is easy to learn and more stable than it looks. It’s best to try paddleboarding in a calm location such as Kamakahonu Beach; there are rental vendors offering lessons nearby.

BEST SPOTS

Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area. Often considered one of the top 10 beaches in the world, Hapuna Beach offers fine white sand, turquoise water, and easy rolling surf on most days, making it great for bodysurfing and body boarding at all levels. Ask the lifeguards—who cover only areas south of the rocky cliff that juts out near the middle of the beach—about conditions before heading into the water, especially in winter. Sometimes northwest swells create a dangerous undertow, so use caution here. EHwy. 19, near mile marker 69, just south of Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Kohala Coast wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp.

Honolii Cove. North of Hilo, this is the best body boarding spot on the east side of the island. EOff Hwy. 19, near mile marker 4, Hilo.

Kohanaiki Beach Park (“Pine Trees”). A popular local surfing spot, this newish county park is one of the best places to find waves and is recommended for experienced surfers. Be sure to watch your belongings here and lock your car.EHwy.19,7 miles north of Kailua-Kona.

Magic Sands Beach Park (White Sands Beach). This white-sand, shorebreak cove is great for beginning to intermediate bodysurfing and body boarding. Sometimes, randomly, much of the sand here washes out to sea and forms a sandbar just offshore, creating fun wave conditions, only to “reappear” a few days later. Also known as White Sands, the beach is popular and can get crowded with locals, especially when school is out. Watch for large, overwhelming surf and nasty rip currents at high tide. Listen to lifeguards when they tell you to get out of the water. lIf you’re not using fins, wear reef shoes for protection against sharp rocks. EAlii Dr., just north of mile marker 4, Kailua-Kona.

EQUIPMENT

Equipment rental shacks are located at many beaches and boat harbors, along the highway, and at most resorts. Body-board rental rates are around $12–$15 per day and around $60 per week. You can also buy snorkeling equipment at one of the big-box retailers if you plan to be out every day, want to ensure sanitation, or need a perfect fit. Most also carry body boards. Ensure that the vendor has attached a leash to your board. Some lifeguards won’t let you in the water without one.

Honolua Surf Company

WATER SPORTS | Surfboards, surf apparel, logowear, gear, sunglasses, and hats are available at these moderately priced surf shops. There are several locations statewide. EKona Shopping Village, 75-5744 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–1001 wwww.honoluasurf.com.

Caving

The Kanohina Lava Tube system is about a thousand years old and was used by the ancient Hawaiians for water collection and for shelter. More than 56 miles of braided lava tubes have been mapped so far in the Kau District of the Big Island, near Ka Lae (South Point). About 45 miles south of Kailua-Kona, these lava tubes are a great experience for cavers of all age levels and abilities. The Kazamura lava-tube system is the longest lava-tube system in the world and is located on the east side of the island not far from Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Each set of caves is a unique experience to visit and explore.

HKula Kai Caverns

SPELUNKING | Expert cave guides lead groups into the fantastic underworld of these caverns near South Point in Kau. The braided lava-tube system attracts scientists from around the world, who come to study and map them (more than 56 miles so far). Tours range from the Lighted Trail (in the lighted show cave, which is easy walking) to the Two Hour, a deep-down-under spelunking adventure that often takes closer to three hours and allows you to see archaeological evidence of the ancient Hawaiians. Longer, customized tours are available; all gear is provided. Tours start at an Indiana Jones–style expedition tent and divulge fascinating details about the caves’ geological and cultural history. Reservations are required. EKula Kai Estates, Lauhala Dr., at Kona Kai Blvd., Ocean View P808/929–9725 wwww.kulakaicaverns.com AFrom $28.

Deep-Sea Fishing

The Kona Coast boasts some of the world’s most exciting “blue-water” fishing. The island’s steep, sloping underwater geography means that just 3 miles out to sea, the ocean plunges to depths of more than 6,000 feet, making it a sportfisher’s dream. Although July, August, and September are peak months, with the best fishing and a number of tournaments, charter fishing goes on year-round. Some 60 charter boats, averaging 26 to 58 feet in length, are available for hire, all of them out of Honokohau Harbor, north of Kailua-Kona.

The Kona Coast is world-famous for the presence of large marlin, particularly the Pacific blue. In fact, it’s also known as “Grander Alley” for the fish caught here that weigh more than 1,000 pounds. The largest blue marlin on record was caught in 1984 and weighed 1,649 pounds. In total, more than 60 granders have been reeled in here by top sportfishing teams.

For an exclusive charter, prices generally range from $700 to $950 for a half-day trip (about four hours) and $800 to $1,700 for a full day at sea (about eight hours). For share charters, rates are about $100 to $140 per person for a half day and $200 for a full day. If fuel prices increase, expect charter costs to rise. Most boats are licensed to take up to six passengers, in addition to the crew. Tackle, bait, and ice are furnished, but you usually have to bring your own lunch. You won’t be able to keep your catch, although if you ask, many captains will send you home with a few fillets.

Honokohau Harbor’s Fuel Dock

FISHING | Show up around 11 am and watch the weigh-in of the day’s catch from the morning charters, or around 3:30 for the afternoon charters, especially during the summer tournament season. Weigh-ins are fun when the big ones come in, but these days, with most of the marlin being released, it’s not a sure thing. lIn the foyer of the Kona Inn in Kailua-Kona, look for some of the “granders” on display. EHonokohau Harbor, Kealakehe Pkwy. at Hwy. 11, Kailua-Kona.

BOATS AND CHARTERS

Bite Me Sportfishing Fleet

FISHING | FAMILY | This multifaceted sportfishing company offers a full fleet with shared, half-day, or three-quarter-day charters as well as invitational championships; they know how, when, and where to catch fish along the Kona Coast. They specialize in a family-friendly experience and can accommodate private parties of six or more. The boats have the newest gear and accessories, shady top and bottom decks, restrooms, showers, and comfy seating. Lots of charters for different excursions are also available, and the company follows catch-and-release practices to help sustain local fisheries. Dolphin-watching cruises and seasonal whale-watching excursions are other options. A cool retail store sells everything from logo T-shirts to hats. lBonus: they will share the catch with you so you can enjoy some while on the island, or they’ll recommend a restaurant that can cook it for you. EHonokahau Harbor, 74-425 Kealakehe Pkwy., Suite 17, Kailua-Kona P808/936–3442 wwww.bitemesportfishing.com AFrom $159.

Bwana Sportfishing

FISHING | Half-, three-quarter-, and full-day charters, as well as overnight charters, are available on the 46-foot Bwana, a boat with the latest electronics, top-of-the-line equipment, and air-conditioned cabins. You get outstanding, quality tackle and lots of experience here. Captain Teddy comes from a fishing family; father Pete was a legend on Kona waters for decades. EHonokohau Harbor, Slip H-17, 74-381 Kealakehe Pkwy., Kailua-Kona jJust south of Kona airport P808/936–5168 wfacebook.com/bwanasportfishing AFrom $1,250.

Charter Locker

FISHING | Half- and full-day charter fishing trips on 36- to 53-foot vessels are offered by this experienced company. Featured boats include Kona Blue, JR’s Hooker, Strong Persuader, and Kila Kila. Rates depend on the boat. EHonokohau Harbor, 74-381 Kealakehe Pkwy., #16, Kailua-Kona jJust south of Kona airport P808/326–2553 wwww.charterlocker.com AFrom $699.

Humdinger Sportfishing

FISHING | The father-son team here brings more than five decades of fishing experience in Kona waters, and the expert crew are marlin specialists. Their 37-foot Rybovich, the Humdinger, features the latest in electronics and top-line rods and reels. Book online for discounts and specials; they sell out quickly, so plan ahead. lThey will let you keep your catch (except for billfish) and will even fillet it for you. EHonokohau Harbor, 74-381 Kealakehe Pkwy., Slip B-4, Kailua-Kona P808/425–9225, 800/926–2374, 808/425–9228 boat phone wwww.humdingersportfishing.com AFrom $699.

Golf

For golfers, the Big Island is a big deal, starting with the Mauna Kea Golf Course, which opened in 1964 and remains one of the state’s top courses. Black lava and deep blue sea are the predominant themes on the island. In the roughly 40 miles from the Kona Country Club to the Mauna Kea resort, nine courses are carved into sunny seaside lava plains, with four more in the hills above. Indeed, most of the Big Island’s best courses are concentrated along the Kohala Coast, statistically the sunniest spot in Hawaii. Vertically speaking, the majority of courses are seaside or at least near sea level, and three are located above 2,000 feet. This is significant because in Hawaii temperatures drop 3°F for every 1,000 feet of elevation gained.

Greens fee: Greens fees listed here are the highest course rates per round on weekdays for U.S. residents. (Some courses charge non–U.S. residents higher prices.) Courses with varying weekend rates are noted in the individual listings. lDiscounts are often available for resort guests and for those who book tee times online, as well as for those willing to play in the afternoon. Twilight rates are also usually offered.

Hapuna Golf Course

GOLF | Hapuna’s challenging play and environmental sensitivity make it one of the island’s most unusual courses. Designed by Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay, it nestles into the natural contours of the land from the shoreline to about 700 feet above sea level. There are spectacular views of mountains and sea; Maui is often visible in the distance. Holes wind through kiawe scrub, beds of jagged lava, and tall fountain grasses. Hole 12 is favored for its beautiful views and challenging play. The course is within walking distance of the Westin Hapuna Beach Resort. EWestin Hapuna Beach Resort, 62-100 Kanunaoa Dr., Mauna Kea P808/880–3000 wmarriott.com A$200, cart required J18 holes, 6,875 yards, par 72.

Hilo Municipal Golf Course

GOLF | Hilo Muni is proof that you don’t need sand bunkers to create a challenging course. Trees and several meandering creeks are the danger here. The course, which offers views of Hilo Bay from most holes, has produced many of the island’s top players over the years. Taking a divot reminds you that you’re playing on a volcano—the soil is dark-black crushed lava. Due to heavy demand as the only public course on the Big Island, tee-time reservations (required) are by phone only. E340 Haihai St., Hilo P808/959–7711 A$40 weekdays, $47 weekends; $24 cart J18 holes, 6,325 yards, par 71.

HKona Country Club

GOLF | Renovated in 2016, this William F. Bell–designed golf course is perched high above historic Keauhou Bay, with spectacular views of the sea from almost every hole. Stands of mature coco trees, several remarkable lava features, wide fairways, and challenging Bermuda greens make this course a classic Hawaii golf experience that’s open to the public. The most prominent feature is the “blowhole” (puka in Hawaiian), fronting the par-4 13th tee, where seawater propelled through a lava-tube formation erupts forcefully like a geyser—try timing your drive to penetrate the shooting water! In the winter months, golfers may also be treated to the sight of migrating humpback whales splashing and breaching within a tee shot of the shoreline. The View, the on-site restaurant, is a favorite of locals, whether they golf or not, and has some of the best sunset views on the Kona Coast. E78-7000 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/322–2595 wwww.konacountryclub.com A$189, $105 9-hole; includes cart J18 holes, 6,613 yards, par 72.

Makani Golf Club

GOLF | At 2,000 feet above sea level on the slopes of Hualalai, this course is out of the way but well worth the drive. In 1997, Pete and Perry Dye created a gem that plays through upland woodlands—more than 2,500 trees line the fairways. On the par-5 16th, a giant tree in the middle of the fairway must be avoided with the second shot. Five lakes and a meandering natural mountain stream bring water into play on nine holes. The most dramatic is the par-3 17th, where Dye created a knockoff of his infamous 17th at the TPC at Sawgrass. E71-1420 Hawaii Belt Rd., Kailua-Kona P808/325–5044 wmakanigolfclub.com A$135 with cart, bottled water; $99 after noon J18 holes, 7,075 yards, par 72.

HMauna Kea Golf Course

GOLF | Originally opened in 1964, this golf course is one of the state’s most revered. In 2008, it underwent a tee-to-green renovation by Rees Jones, son of the original architect, Robert Trent Jones Sr. Hybrid grasses were planted, the number of bunkers increased, and the overall yardage expanded. The par-3 third is one of the world’s most famous holes—and one of the most photographed. You play from a cliffside tee across a bay to a cliffside green. Getting across the ocean is half the battle because the green is surrounded by seven bunkers, each one large and undulated. The course is a shot-maker’s paradise and follows Jones’s “easy bogey, tough par” philosophy. The course may be undergoing some upcoming minor renovations, so call first to check the status. E62-100 Kaunaoe Dr., Mauna Kea P808/882–5400 wmaunakeabeachhotel.com A$295, $245 after 11 am, $195 after 1:30 pm J18 holes, 7,250 yards, par 72.

HMauna Lani Golf Courses

GOLF | Black lava flows, lush green turf, white sand, and the Pacific’s many blue hues define the 36 holes at Mauna Lani. The South Course includes the par-3 15th across a turquoise bay, one of Hawaii’s most photographed holes. It shares “signature hole” honors with the seventh, a long par 3, which plays downhill over convoluted patches of black lava, with the Pacific immediately to the left and a dune to the right. The North Course plays a couple of shots tougher. Its most distinctive hole is the 17th, a par 3 with the green set in a lava pit 50 feet deep. The shot from an elevated tee must carry a pillar of lava that rises from the pit and partially blocks a view of the green. E68-1310 Mauna Lani Dr., Waimea (Hawaii County) P808/885–6655 waubergeresorts.com/maunalani AFrom $295, with dynamic pricing JSouth Course: 18 holes, 6,025 yards, par 72. North Course: 18 holes, 6,057 yards, par 72.

Volcano Golf Course

GOLF | Just outside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park—and barely a stone’s throw from Halemaumau Crater—this is by far Hawaii’s highest course. At 4,200 feet elevation, shots tend to fly a bit farther than at sea level, even in the often cool, misty air. Because of the elevation and climate, this Hawaii course features Bermuda and seashore paspalum grass putting greens. The course is mostly flat, and holes play through stands of ohia lehua (flowering native trees) and multitrunk hau trees. The uphill par-4 15th doglegs through a tangle of hau. zHawaii’s highly endangered native goose, the nene, love golf courses and are especially prevalent here. Please do not approach or feed. E99-1621 Pii Mauna Dr., off Hwy. 11, Volcano P808/319–4745 wwww.volcanogc.com AFrom $56; $15 cart J18 holes, 6,106 yards, par 72.

HWaikoloa Beach Resort

GOLF | Robert Trent Jones Jr. built the Beach Course at Waikoloa (1981) on an old flow of crinkly aa lava, which he used to create holes that are as artful as they are challenging. The par-5 12th hole is one of Hawaii’s most picturesque and plays through a chute of black lava to a seaside green. At the Kings’ Course (1990), Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish built a links-esque track. It turns out lava’s natural humps and declivities replicate the contours of seaside Scotland. There are a few island twists—such as seven lakes. This is “option golf,” as Weiskopf and Morrish provide different risk-reward tactics on each hole. Resort guests receive a lower rate. E600 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/886–7888 wwww.waikoloabeachgolf.com AFrom $194 JBeach Course: 18 holes, 6,566 yards, par 70. Kings’ Course: 18 holes, 7,074 yards, par 72.

Hiking

Ecologically diverse, Hawaii Island has four of the five major climate zones and eight of 13 subclimate zones—a lot of variation for one island—and you can experience almost all of them on foot. The ancient Hawaiians cut trails across the lava plains, through the rain forests, and up along the mountain heights. Many of these paths are still in use today. Part of the King’s Trail at Anaehoomalu winds through a field of lava rock covered with ancient petroglyphs. Many other trails—historic and modern—crisscross the huge Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and other parts of the island. The three national parks here are replete with fantastic hiking opportunities for all abilities. If you like coastal hiking, the serenity of certain remote beaches is accessible only to hikers. Check the statewide trail system website (whawaiitrails.ehawaii.gov) for up-to-date information on hiking trails.

Department of Land and Natural Resources, State Parks Division

HIKING & WALKING | The division provides information on all the Big Island’s state parks and jurisdictions. Check online for the latest additions, information, and advisories. E75 Aupuni St., Hilo P808/961–9544 wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp.

BEST SPOTS

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Perhaps the Big Island’s premier area for hikers, the park has more than 155 miles of trails providing close-up, often jaw-dropping views of fern and rain-forest environments, cinder cones, craters, steam vents, lava fields, rugged coastline, and current eruption activity. Day hikes range from easy to moderately difficult, and from one or two hours to a full day. For a bigger challenge, consider an overnight or multiday backcountry hike with a stay in a park cabin (available en route to the remote coast, in a lush forest, or atop frigid Mauna Loa). To do so, you must first obtain a permit ($10) at the Backcountry Office, off Chain of Craters Road. Daily guided hikes are led by knowledgeable, friendly park rangers. The bulletin boards outside Kilauea Visitor Center have the day’s schedule of guided hikes. EHwy. 11, 30 miles south of Hilo, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park P808/985–6000 wwww.nps.gov/havo.

Kekaha Kai State Park. A 1.8-mile unimproved road leads to Mahaiula Bay, a gorgeous little piece of paradise, while on the opposite side is lovely Kua Bay. Connecting the two is the 4½-mile Ala Kahakai historic coastal trail. Midway between the two white-sand beaches, you can hike to the summit of Puu Kuili, a 342-foot-high cinder cone with an excellent view of the coastline. Mahaiula has picnic tables and vault toilets but no other amenities. It’s dry and hot, with no drinking water, so pack sunblock, hats, and extra water. Park gates close at 7 pm sharp. ETrailhead on Hwy. 19, about 2 miles north of Kona airport, Kailua-Kona wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp.

Muliwai Trail. On the western side of mystical Waipio Valley on the Hamakua Coast, this trail leads to the back of the valley, then switchbacks up through a series of gulches and finally emerges at Waimanu Valley. Only very experienced hikers should attempt the entirety of this remote 18-mile trail, the hike of a lifetime. It can take two to three days of backpacking and camping, which requires camping permits from the Division of Forestry and Wildlife in Hilo. At the time of this writing, the road to Waipio is closed due to repairs. ETrailhead at end of Hwy. 240, Honokaa P808/974–4221 whawaiitrails.ehawaii.gov.

Onomea Bay Trail. This short but beautiful trail is packed with stunning views of the cliffs, bays, and gulches of the Hamakua Coast, on the east side of the island. The trail is just under a mile and fairly easy, with access down to the shore if you want to dip your feet in; we don’t recommend swimming in the rough waters. Unless you pay the entry fee to the nearby Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve & Garden, entering its gates (even by accident) will send one of the guards running after you to point you back to the trail. ETrailhead on Old Hawaiian Belt Rd., just before botanical garden whawaiitrails.ehawaii.gov.

GUIDES

To get to some of the best trails and hiking spots (some of which are on private property), it’s worth going with a skilled, professional guide, many of whom are certified national park guides. Costs range from about $150 to more than $285, and some hikes include transportation, full meals, refreshments, and gear such as binoculars, ponchos, parkas, and walking sticks. The outfitters mentioned here also offer customized adventure tours.

HHawaii Forest and Trail

WALKING TOURS | Since 1993, this locally owned and operated outfit has built a reputation for outstanding nature tours and eco-adventures. Sustainability, cultural sensitivity, and forging island connections are company missions. They have access to thousands of acres of restricted or private lands and employ expert, certified guides who are entertaining and informative. Choose one of the bird-watching tours, a journey that takes you deep into the Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge with local bird experts at the helm. Other tours include treks to Kilauea Volcano in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, a Kohala waterfall trip, or the uncrowded, awe-inspiring Hidden Craters Tour, which takes you over private land to explore the slopes of Hualalai Volcano. They can also design custom private tours. E73-5593A Olowalu St., Kailua-Kona P808/331–8505, 800/464–1993 wwww.hawaii-forest.com AFrom $175.

HKapohoKine Adventures

WALKING TOURS | FAMILY | One of the best-loved outfitters on the island, locally owned KapohoKine Adventures offers a number of excellent hiking tours that depart from both Hilo and Kona. The epic full-day Elite Volcano Hike (departing from both Kona and Hilo) hits all the great spots, including now-quiet areas in Puna impacted by the 2018 eruption. Hikers will encounter a 40-foot wall of lava and follow it to the sea and an enormous black-sand beach. Also included are Kalapana, the Kaumana Caves, the Steaming Bluffs, and a tour of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. All tours are led by a national park–certified guide. Enjoy a final stop at Volcano House for views from the enormous picture windows overlooking the crater. A hearty dinner is included, as well as lunch and snacks. EGrand Naniloa Hotel Hilo, 93 Banyan Dr., Hilo P808/964–1000 wwww.kapohokine.com AFrom $295.

Horseback Riding

With its paniolo (cowboy) heritage and the ranches it spawned, the Big Island is a great place for equestrians. Riders can gallop through upcountry green pastures or saunter through lush valleys for a taste of old Hawaii.

TOURS

Paniolo Adventures

HORSEBACK RIDING | The company offers an open-range horseback ride on a working Kohala Mountain cattle ranch, spectacular views of three volcanoes and the coastline, and an authentic paniolo (cowboy) experience from 3,000 feet up. You don’t ride nose-to-tail and can spread out and trot or canter if you wish: this is an 11,000-acre ranch, so there’s room to roam. The company caters to beginning and experienced riders and offers special private rides as well. EKohala Mountain Rd. (Hwy. 250) at mile marker 13.2 P808/889–5354 wwww.panioloadventures.com AFrom $139.

Kayaking

The leeward (west coast) areas of the Big Island are protected for the most part from the northeast trade winds, making for ideal near-shore kayaking conditions. Miles and miles of uncrowded Kona and Kohala coastline present close-up views of stark, raw, lava-rock shores and cliffs; lava-tube sea caves; pristine, secluded coves; and deserted beaches.

Ocean kayakers can get close to shore—places the commercial snorkel and dive cruise boats can’t reach. This opens up all sorts of possibilities for adventure, such as near-shore snorkeling among the expansive coral reefs and lava-rock formations that teem with colorful tropical fish and Hawaiian green sea turtles. You can pull ashore at a quiet cove for a picnic and a plunge into turquoise waters. With a good coastal map and some advice from the kayak vendor, you might paddle past ancient battlegrounds, burial sites, bathing ponds for Hawaiian royalty, or old villages.

Kayaking can be enjoyed via a guided tour or on a self-guided paddling excursion. Either way, the kayak outfitter can brief you on recommended routes, safety, and how to help preserve and protect Hawaii’s ocean resources and coral reef system.

Whether you’re a beginning or experienced kayaker, choose appropriate location, distance, and conditions for your excursion.

Ask the outfitter about local conditions and hazards, such as tides, currents, and advisories, but also judge conditions for yourself and never launch in rough weather.

Beginners should practice getting into and out of the kayak and capsizing (called a huli, the Hawaiian word for “flip over”) in shallow water.

Before departing, secure the kayak’s hatches to prevent water intake.

Use a line to attach the paddle to the kayak to avoid losing it.

Always use a life vest or jacket, and wear a rash guard and hat; apply plenty of reef-safe sunblock.

Carry appropriate amounts of water and food.

Don’t kayak alone. Create a float plan; tell someone where you’re going and when you will return.

BEST SPOTS

Hilo Bay. This is a favorite kayak spot. The best place to put in is at Reeds Bay Beach Park. Parking is plentiful and free at the bayfront. Most afternoons you’ll share the bay with local paddling clubs. Stay inside the breakwater unless the ocean is calm (or you’re feeling unusually adventurous). Conditions range from extremely calm to quite choppy. EBanyan Way and Banyan Dr., 1 mile from downtown Hilo.

Hookena Beach Park. Located in South Kona, this lovely little bay is perfect for kayaking. A concessionaire offers both double and single kayaks for rent by the hour. E86-4322 Mamalahoa Hwy, Captain Cook.

Kailua Bay and Kamakahonu Beach. The small sandy beach that fronts the Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel is a nice place to rent or launch kayaks. You can unload in the cul-de-sac and park in nearby paid lots. The water here is especially calm, and the surroundings are historical and scenic. EAlii Dr., next to Kailua Pier, Kailua-Kona.

Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park. The excellent snorkeling and likelihood of seeing dolphins (morning is best) make Kealakekua Bay one of the most popular kayaking spots on the Big Island. An underwater Marine Life Conservation District, the bay is usually calm and tranquil. (zUse caution and common sense during surf advisories.) Tall coral pinnacles and clear visibility surrounding the Captain James Cook Monument also make for stupendous snorkeling. Regulations permit only a few operators to lead kayak tours in the park. ENapoopoo Rd. and Manini Beach Rd., Captain Cook wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp.

Oneo Bay. Right in downtown Kailua, this is usually a placid place to kayak. It’s fairly easy to access. If you can’t find parking along the road, there’s a free lot across the street from the library and farmers’ market. EAlii Dr., Kailua-Kona.

EQUIPMENT, LESSONS, AND TOURS

There are several rental outfitters on Highway 11 between Kainaliu and Captain Cook, but only a few are permitted to lead kayak trips in Kealakekua Bay.

HKona Boys

KAYAKING | On the highway above Kealakekua Bay, this full-service, environmentally conscious outfitter handles kayaks, body boards, surfboards, stand-up paddleboards, and snorkeling gear. Single-seat and double kayaks are offered. Surfing and stand-up paddleboarding lessons are available for private or group instruction. One of the few companies permitted to lead tours in Kealakekua Bay, Kona Boys offers their Morning Magic and Midday Meander tours, two half-day guided kayaking and snorkeling trips with gear, lunch, snacks, and beverages. They also run a beach shack fronting the Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel, with everything for the beachgoer such as rentals of beach mats, chairs, and other gear. lThe Kailua-Kona location offers Hawaiian outrigger canoe rides and SUP lessons. E79-7539 Mamalahoa Hwy., Kealakekua P808/328–1234 Kealakekua location, 808/329–2345 Kailua-Kona location wwww.konaboys.com ATours from $199.

Ocean Safari’s Kayak Adventures

KAYAKING | On the guided, 3½-hour morning sea-cave tour that begins in Keauhou Bay, you can visit lava-tube sea caves along the coast, then swim ashore for a snack. The kayaks are already on the water, so you won’t have the hassle of transporting them. The company also offers stand-up paddleboard rentals and lessons. Book online for best availability. E78-7128 Kaleiopapa St., Kailua-Kona P808/326–4699 wwww.oceansafariskayaks.com AFrom $89.

Sailing

For old salts and novice sailors alike, there’s nothing like a cruise on the Kona or Kohala Coast. Calm waters, serene shores, and the superb scenery of Maunakea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai, the Big Island’s primary volcanic peaks, make for a great sailing adventure. You can drop a line over the side and try your luck at catching dinner, or grab some snorkel gear and explore when the boat stops in one of the quiet coves and bays. A cruise may well be the most relaxing and adventurous part of a Big Island visit.

Kona Sail Charters

SAILING | The fully equipped, 32-foot cutter-rigged sloop Honu (Hawaiian for sea turtle) carries up to six passengers on full-day, half-day, and sunset sailing excursions along the scenic Kona Coast, including time to snorkel in clear waters over coral reefs during the day tours and heavy pupus (appetizers) for the sunset excursion. This friendly outfitter allows passengers to get some hands-on sailing experience or to kick back and relax, and there are plenty of cushions and lots of shade. Private charters are an option. EHonokohau Harbor, Kailua-Kona P808/896–4668 wwww.sailkona.com ATours from $250/hr.

Paradise Sailing Hawaii

SAILING | Married Captains Eric and Yumi Wakely spent 20 years running charters in West Hawaii and decided to open their own charter company. Kolea, a comfortable, sleek, 36-foot Kurt Hughes catamaran, provides plenty of shade, ample seating, tables, restrooms, and a shower. Take a private morning, afternoon, or sunset sail along the Kona Coast. EHonokohau Marina, 74-380 Kealakehe Pkwy., #J24, Kailua-Kona P808/883–0399 wparadisesailinghawaii.com AFrom $995 for maximum of 8 people.

Scuba Diving

The Big Island’s underwater world is the setting for a dramatic diving experience. With generally warm and calm waters, vibrant coral reefs and rock formations, and plunging underwater drop-offs, the Kona and Kohala Coasts offer premier scuba diving. There are some good dive locations in East Hawaii, not far from the Hilo area, but the best spots are all on the west coast. Divers find much to occupy their time, including marine reserves teeming with tropical reef fish, Hawaiian green sea turtles, an occasional and critically endangered Hawaiian monk seal, and some playful spinner dolphins. On special night dives to see manta rays, divers descend with underwater lights that attract plankton, which in turn attract these otherworldly creatures.

BEST SPOTS

Garden Eel Cove. Accessible only by boat, this is a great place to see manta rays somersaulting overhead as they feast on a plankton supper. It’s also home to hundreds of tiny garden eels darting out from their sandy homes. There’s a steep drop-off and lots of marine life. ERte. 19, near the Kona Airport, Kailua-Kona.

Manta Village. Booking with a night-dive operator is required for the short boat ride to this area, one of Kona’s best night-dive spots. If you’re a diving or snorkeling fanatic, it’s well worth it to experience manta rays drawn by the lights of the hotel. lIf night swimming isn’t your cup of tea, you can catch a glimpse of the majestic creatures from the Outrigger’s viewing areas. No water access is allowed from the hotel’s property. E78-128 Ehukai St., off Outrigger Kona Resort and Spa at Keauhou Bay, Kailua-Kona.

Pawai Bay Marine Preserve. Clear waters, abundant reef life, and interesting coral formations make this protected preserve ideal for diving. Explore sea caves, arches, and lava-rock formations and dive into lava tubes. An easy boat-only dive spot is a half mile north of Old Airport Park. (No shoreline access to protected Pawai Bay is available due to its cultural and environmental significance.) EKuakini Hwy., north of Old Kona Airport Park, Kailua-Kona.

Puako. Just south of Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area, beautiful Puako (a small oceanfront neighborhood) offers easy entry to some fine reef diving. Deep chasms, sea caves, and rock arches abound with marine life. Trade winds pick up in the afternoons. EPuako Rd., off Hwy. 19, Kailua-Kona.

EQUIPMENT, LESSONS, AND TOURS

There are quite a few good dive shops along the Kona Coast. Most are happy to take on all customers, but a few focus on specific types of trips. Trip prices vary, depending on whether you’re already certified and whether you’re diving from a boat or from shore. Instruction with PADI, SDI, or TDI certification in three to five days costs $600 to $850. Most instructors rent dive equipment and snorkel gear, as well as underwater cameras. Most also organize otherworldly manta ray dives at night and whale-watching cruises in season.

Big Island Divers

SCUBA DIVING | This company offers several levels of certification as well as numerous excursions, including night dives, two-tank charters, and in-season whale-watching. E74-5467 Kaiwi St., Kailua-Kona P808/329–6068 wbigislanddivers.com AFrom $199.

Jack’s Diving Locker

SCUBA DIVING | Good for novice and intermediate divers, Jack’s has trained and certified tens of thousands of divers since 1981, with classrooms and a dive pool for instruction. Four boats that accommodate up to 18 divers and six snorkelers visit more than 80 established dive sites along the Kona Coast, yielding sightings of turtles, manta rays, garden eels, and schools of barracuda. They even take you lava-tube diving. Snorkelers can accompany their friends on the dive boats or take guided morning trips and manta night trips, and dolphin-watch and reef snorkels. Combined sunset/night manta ray dives are offered as well. lKona’s best deal for scuba newbies is Jack’s pool-and-shore dive combo. E75-5813 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/329–7585, 800/345–4807 wwww.jacksdivinglocker.com ATours from $199 certified divers, $300 intro divers and privates.

HKohala Divers

SCUBA DIVING | The Kohala Coast’s gorgeous underwater topography of lava tubes, caves, vibrant coral reefs, and interesting sea life makes it a great diving destination. This full-service PADI dive shop has been certifying divers since 1984. A one-day intro dive course has you in the ocean the same day. A four-day, full-certification course is offered, too. The company rents any equipment needed for boat or shore excursions and takes divers to the best diving spots on their fully outfitted, comfortable 46-foot Newton dive boat. The retail shop is packed with everything needed for diving, snorkeling, and beach-going. EKawaihae Harbor Shopping Center, Hwy. 270, Kawaihae P808/882–7774 wwww.kohaladivers.com ATwo-tank dive $179; open-water certification from $699.

Snorkeling

A favorite pastime on the Big Island, snorkeling is perhaps one of the easiest and most enjoyable water activities for visitors. By floating on the surface, peering through your mask, and breathing through your snorkel, you can see lava-rock formations, sea arches, sea caves, and coral reefs teeming with colorful tropical fish. While the Kona and Kohala Coasts boast more beaches, bays, and quiet coves to snorkel, the east side around Hilo is also a great place to get in the water.

If you don’t bring your own equipment, you can easily rent all the gear needed from a beach activities vendor, who will happily provide directions to the best sites for snorkeling in the area. For access to deeper water and assistance from an experienced crew (to say nothing of typically great food and drink), you can opt for a snorkel cruise. Excursions generally range from two to five hours; be sure to ask what equipment and food is included. lUse a few drops of baby shampoo on your mask for a cheap and easy-on-the-eyes defogger.

BEST SPOTS

Carlsmith Beach Park. This calm group of lagoons near Hilo is a great place to bring kids. Freshwater springs might cloud your mask and keep the water cool, but you’ll see lots of turtles and tropical fish here. There are showers, a lifeguard, and picnic tables. E1815 Kalanianaole Ave., 10 min. east of Hilo on Hwy. 137.

Honaunau Bay. This lovely spot presents expansive coral gardens and relatively easy access. You’ll see lots of yellow tangs here. Please be respectful at this beloved local spot, and don’t stand on coral, chase dolphins, or use reef-toxic sunscreens. There’s very limited parking. ENext to Puuhonua o Honaunau NHP, South Kona.

Kahaluu Beach Park. Since ancient times, the waters around Kahaluu Beach have provided traditional throw net–fishing grounds. With super-easy access, the bay offers good swimming and outstanding snorkeling, revealing turtles, angelfish, parrotfish, needlefish, puffer fish, and many types of tangs. lStay inside the breakwater and don’t stray too far, as dangerous and unpredictable currents swirl outside the bay. EAlii Dr., Kailua-Kona.

Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park. This protected Marine Life Conservation District is hands down one of the best snorkeling spots on the island, thanks to clear visibility, fabulous coral reefs, and generally calm waters. Pods of dolphins can be abundant, but they’re protected under federal law and may not be disturbed or approached. Access to the area is restricted, but a few companies are permitted to escort tours to the bay. lOverland access is difficult, so opt for one of the guided snorkel cruises permitted to moor here. ENapoopoo, at end of Beach Rd. and Hwy. 160, Captain Cook.

Magic Sands Beach Park. Also known as White Sands or Disappearing Sands Beach Park, this is a great place for beginning and intermediate snorkelers. In winter, it’s also a prime spot to watch for whales. EAlii Dr., Kailua-Kona.

Puako Tide Pools. The large shelf of extensive reef and tide pools at this sleepy beach town along the Kohala Coast makes for fantastic snorkeling, as long as conditions are calm. ESouth end of Puako Beach Rd., Puako, off Hwy. 11.

EQUIPMENT, LESSONS, AND TOURS

Body Glove Cruises

SNORKELING | FAMILY | A good choice for families, this operator has a waterslide and a high-dive platform that kids love. On the daily Snorkel and BBQ Adventure, the 65-foot catamaran sets off from Kailua-Kona pier for stunning Red Hill in uncrowded South Kona. The morning snorkel cruise includes breakfast and a barbecue burger lunch, with vegetarian options. A three-hour historical dinner cruise to Kealakekua Bay is a great way to relax, watch the sunset, and learn about Kona’s history. It includes an excellent Hawaiian-style meal, complimentary cocktail, and live music. Seasonal whale-watch cruises and all dolphin snorkel cruises guarantee you will see the featured mammals or you can go again for free. The company follows a NOAA-approved Dolphin SMART policy, encouraging responsible viewing, on all their cruises. Children under five are always free. E75-5629 Kuakini Hwy., Kailua-Kona P808/326–7122, 800/551–8911 wwww.bodyglovehawaii.com AFrom $158.

HFair Wind Cruises

SNORKELING | FAMILY | In business since 1971, Fair Wind offers morning and afternoon snorkel trips into breathtaking Kealakekua Bay. Great for families with small kids, the custom-built, 60-foot catamaran Fair Wind has two 15-foot waterslides, freshwater showers, and a staircase descending directly into the water for easy access. Snorkel gear is included, along with flotation equipment and prescription masks. The 4½-hour cruise is known for its delicious meals; 3½-hour snack cruises are offered, too. For ages seven and older, the company also operates the Hula Kai snorkel cruise, on a 55-foot luxury hydrofoil catamaran that takes guests to several remote South Kona locations. Their five-hour morning snorkel cruise includes a gourmet breakfast and barbecue lunch. lThe morning cruise is a bit more expensive, but you will have a better chance of clear, sunny conditions than aboard the afternoon boat. EKeauhou Bay, 78-7130 Kaleiopapa St., Kailua-Kona P808/322–2788, 800/677–9461 wwww.fair-wind.com AFrom $159.

Sea Quest

SNORKELING | Careful stewardship of the Kona Coast and its sea life is a major priority for this company, which offers catamaran charters and other snorkeling excursions. They support the Hawaii EcoTourism Association’s commitments to sustainable underwater tourism management. Trips leave from Keauhou Bay and head to Captain Cook Monument and other points south. When night falls, they are one of the best manta ray outfitters on the west side. E78-7138 Kaleiopapa St., Kailua-Kona P808/329–7238 wwww.seaquesthawaii.com AFrom $105.

Stand-Up Paddleboarding

Stand-up paddleboarding (or stand-up paddling; SUP for short), a sport with roots in the Hawaiian Islands, has grown popular worldwide in recent years. It’s available for all skill levels and ages, and even novice stand-up paddleboarders can get up, stay up, and have a great time paddling around a protected bay or exploring the gorgeous coastline. All you need to get started is a large body of calm water, a board, and a paddle. The workout tests your core strength as well as your balance and offers an unusual vantage point from which to enjoy the beauty of island and ocean.

BEST SPOTS

Anaehoomalu Bay Beach. In this well-protected bay, it’s usually fairly calm even when surf is rough on the rest of the island, though trade winds pick up heartily in the afternoon. Boards are available for rent at the north end, and the safe area for stand-up paddling is marked by buoys. EOff Waikoloa Beach Dr., south of Waikoloa Beach Marriott, Kohala Coast.

Hilo Bay. The bay is calm most days, as well as shallow, so it’s a great place for novices to try stand-up paddling. The beach is about 3,000 feet long, one of the longest in Hawaii, so there’s lots of room on the beach and in the water. Free parking is abundant fronting the bay off Bayfront Highway, so you won’t usually have to schlep your board and paddle too far from your car. EBayfront Hwy., downtown Hilo.

Kailua Bay and Kamakahonu Beach. The small sandy beach that fronts the Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel is great for kids; the water here is especially calm and gentle. If you’re more daring, you can easily paddle out of the bay and along the coast for some great exploring. EAlii Dr., next to Kailua Pier, Kailua-Kona.

EQUIPMENT AND LESSONS

Alii Adventure Shack

STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING | This small company specializes in paddleboard rentals and can give you some great tips about where to go in Kailua-Kona for the best experience. They also rent coolers and Go-Pro cameras so you can record your outing. E75-5663 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona P808/657-4606 waliiadventureshack.com AFrom $20/hr.

HHypr Nalu Hawaii

STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING | FAMILY | Veteran waterman and fitness enthusiast Ian Foo, his wife, Lauren, and their adult kids, run this top-of-the-line board shop at the beach fronting the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort. From stand-up paddleboards and surfboards, to lessons, accessories, clothing, and gear, they do it all with passion and expertise. More impressively, they make the elegant stand-up boards themselves—arguably the most beautiful paddleboards in the world—and will ship worldwide. So if you take a lesson, fall in love with the sport, and want one sent home, this is the place to go. E69-275 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa P808/960–4667 wwww.hyprnalu.com ALessons from $125.

Submarine Tours

Atlantis Submarines

BOATING | FAMILY | Want to stay dry while exploring the tropical undersea world? Climb aboard the 48-passenger Atlantis X submarine, anchored off Kailua Pier, across from Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. A large glass dome in the bow and 13 viewing ports on each side allow clear views of the aquatic world more than 100 feet down. They take you to a pristine, 25-acre coral garden brimming with sea creatures of all kinds. This is a great trip for kids and nonswimmers. lBook online for discounts and specials. E75-5669 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/326–7939, 800/381–0237 wwww.atlantisadventures.com A$148.

Surfing

The Big Island does not have the variety of great surfing spots found on Oahu or Maui, but it does have decent waves and a thriving surf culture. Local kids and avid surfers frequent a number of places up and down the Kona and Kohala Coasts of West Hawaii; some have become famous surf champions. Expect high surf in winter and much calmer conditions during summer. The surf scene is much more active on the Kona side.

BEST SPOTS

Honolii Cove. North of Hilo, this is the best surfing spot on the eastern side of the island. It hosts many exciting surf contests. EOff Hwy. 19, near mile marker 4, Hilo.

Kahaluu Beach Park. Slightly north of this beach park and just past the calm lagoon filled with snorkelers, beginning and intermediate surfers can have a go at some nice waves. Heed lifeguard warnings. EAlii Dr., Kailua-Kona.

Kohanaiki Beach Park. Also known as Pine Trees, this community beach park is among the best places to catch waves. Keep in mind that it’s a very popular local surf spot on an island where there aren’t all that many surf spots, and be respectful. EOff Hwy. 11, Kohanaiki entrance gate, about 2 miles south of Kona airport, Kailua-Kona.

Old Kona Airport Park. The park is a good place for catching wave action. A couple of the island’s outfitters conduct surf lessons here, as the break is far from potentially dangerous rocks and reefs. EKuakini Rd., Kailua-Kona.

EQUIPMENT AND LESSONS

HHawaii Lifeguard Surf Instructors

SURFING | This family-owned, lifeguard-certified school helps novices become wave riders at Kahaluu Beach Park in Kailua-Kona and offers lessons for more experienced riders at Kona’s top surf spots. A two-hour introductory lesson has one instructor per two to four students and is gentle and reassuring. Private instruction is available as well. If the waves are on the smaller side, the school converts to stand-up paddleboard lessons for the same prices as surfing. E75-5909 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona P808/324–0442, 808/936–7873 wwww.surflessonshawaii.com AFrom $139.

HOrchidland Surfboards and Surf Shop

WATER SPORTS | This venerable shop in historic downtown Hilo—in business since 1972—carries a wide variety of surf and other water sports equipment for sale or rent. It stocks professional custom surfboards and surf apparel. Owner Stan Lawrence, famous for his “Drainpipe” legacy, was one of the last people to surf that famous break before lava flows claimed the entire Kalapana area. Old photos and surfing posters on the walls celebrate the sport and add to the nostalgia. Through the shop, Stan hosts surfing contests and does the daily surf report for local radio stations. Orchidland, the longest continually operating surf shop on the Big Island, is as authentic as it gets. E262 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo P808/935–1533 wwww.orchidlandsurfshop.com A$30, 8-ft. soft surfboard/day.

HPacific Vibrations

SURFING | Family-owned, this surf shop—in business since 1978—stocks tons of equipment, surf wear and gear, sunglasses, and GoPro cameras. It’s worth a stop just to soak in the cool Hawaii surf vibe and to talk story with the friendly owners. The owners are activists in protecting local surf spots from development, and their grassroots efforts have been very successful. E74-5614 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona P808/329–4140.

Whale-Watching

One of the most highly anticipated Hawaii experiences for visitors and residents alike from December through May is the annual migration of the North Pacific humpback whales. They travel about 3,200 miles from Alaska’s icy waters to the Hawaiian Islands in as few as 40 days, swimming 24 hours a day. As early as October, mother whales with nursing calves arrive first, followed by mothers with yearlings. These cetacean moms have taught the migration routine to their offspring and then begin to wean them. Adult males arrive next, followed by adult females, and finally by pregnant mothers who maximize their feeding in Alaska before making the journey and giving birth. Once here, they do not feed. The population of migrating humpbacks in Hawaiian waters is now estimated at about 12,000 individuals.

Behaviors that you might witness include pectoral slapping, spy-hops, tail slapping, and the most spectacular of all—leaping barrel rolls. Toward the end of the season, you may see mothers nurturing newborn calves. Humpbacks tend to stick close to shore, so you will often witness them from many accessible locations, especially along the Kohala Coast.

Eighteen species of dolphins live here year-round, including spotted, spinner, rough-toothed, and bottlenose. Be sure to choose excursions that respect the natural boundaries of dolphins and that don’t disturb or impact their resting states, as they are all protected by federal law. lIf you take a morning cruise, you’re more likely to see dolphins.

FIn addition to the outfitters listed below, see the Snorkeling section for more outfitters that offer whale- and dolphin-watching cruises.

TOURS

Captain Dan McSweeney’s Whale Watch Learning Adventures

WILDLIFE-WATCHING | Captain Dan McSweeney, self-described whale researcher and conservationist, offers three-hour trips on his double-decker, 40-foot cruise boat. In addition to humpbacks (in winter), he’ll try to show you dolphins and some of the six other whale species that live off the Kona Coast throughout the year. McSweeney guarantees you’ll see whales or he’ll take you out again for free. EHonokohau Harbor, 74-381 Kealakehe Pkwy., Kailua-Kona P808/322–0028, 888/942–5376 wwww.ilovewhales.com A$135.

Hawaii Nautical

WILDLIFE-WATCHING | A NOAA-designated Dolphin SMART operator, this company practices strict guidelines for viewing protected marine animals, including dolphins and whales. You can be assured that you’ll enjoy a wonderful ocean tour, see plenty of animals, and not be a part of harming or impacting the animals’ activities or habitats. Excursions include affordable powerboat cruises, catamaran snorkel sails, and even a pampering yacht adventure that takes a maximum of six guests to Pawai Bay or Makalawena. Private charters are also available. E74-425 Kealakehe Pkwy., Slip I-10, Kailua-Kona P808/234–7245 wwww.hawaiinautical.com AFrom $54.

Zip-Lining

Kohala Zipline

ZIP-LINING | Located in the canopy of the Halawa Gulch in North Kohala, this tour features nine zips and five suspension bridges for a thrilling, within-the-canopy adventure in the forest. You’ll bounce up to the site in a six-wheel-drive, military-style vehicle. Two certified guides accompany each small group. Designed for all ability levels, the Kohala Zipline focuses on fun and safety, offering a dual line for efficient, confident braking. You’ll soar more than 100 feet above the ground and feel like a pro by the last platform. A quickie lesson in rappelling is included. Zip and Dip tours (combining zip line, nature walk, lunch, snacks, and waterfall swim) are also available. E54-3676 Akoni Pule Hwy., Hawi P808/331–8505 wwww.kohalazipline.com AFrom $215.

WELCOME TO KAUAI

TOP REASONS TO GO

Beaches: Pristine strips of sand and palm-fringed shores make vacation dreams real.

Napali Coast: Its towering cliffs astonish all who see them from land, sea, or air.

Outdoor fun: Kauai offers great surfing and snorkeling, plus top-notch golf and hiking.

Charming towns: Artsy Hanapepe, colorful Hanalei, historic Koloa, and more invite lingering.

Kayaking: Paddling on a river is a tranquil way to discover the island’s allure.

Scenic drives: Cruise the North Shore’s Route 560 or the West Side’s Waimea Canyon Drive.

North Shore. Dreamy beaches, verdant mountains, breathtaking scenery, and abundant rain, waterfalls, and rainbows characterize the North Shore, which includes Kilauea, Princeville, Hanalei, and Haena.

East Side. This is Kauai’s commercial and residential hub, dominated by the island’s largest town, Kapaa. The airport, main harbor, and government offices are found in the county seat of Lihue. It can be a convenient base for travelers, too.

South Shore. Peaceful landscapes, sunny weather, and beaches that rank among the best in the world make the South Shore the resort capital of Kauai. The Poipu resort area is here, along with the main towns of Koloa and Lawai.

West Side. Dry, sunny, and sleepy, the West Side includes the historic towns of Hanapepe, Waimea, and Kekaha. The area is ideal for outdoor adventurers because it’s both the entryway to Waimea Canyon and Kokee State Park and the departure point for most Napali Coast boat trips.

Even a nickname like “The Garden Island” fails to do justice to Kauai’s beauty. Verdant trees grow canopies over the few roads, and brooding mountains are framed by long, sandy beaches, coral reefs, and sheer sea cliffs. Pristine trade winds moderate warm daily temperatures while offering comfort for deep, refreshing sleep through gentle nights.

The main road tracing Kauai’s perimeter takes you past much more scenery than would seem possible on one small island. Chiseled mountains, thundering waterfalls, misty hillsides, dreamy beaches, lush vegetation, and small towns make up the physical landscape. Perhaps the most stunning piece of scenery is a place no road will take you—breathtakingly beautiful Napali Coast, which runs along the northwest side of the island.

For adventure seekers, Kauai offers everything from difficult hikes to helicopter tours. The island has top-notch spas and golf courses, and its beaches are known to be some of the most beautiful in the world. Even after you’ve spent days lazing around drinking mai tais or kayaking your way down a river, there’s still plenty to do, as well as see: plantation villages, a historic lighthouse, wildlife refuges, a fern grotto, a colorful canyon, and deep rivers are all easily explored. While exploring the island, try to take advantage of the many roadside scenic overlooks and pull over to take in the constantly changing view.

Don’t try to pack too much into one day. Kauai is small, but travel is slow. The island’s sights are divided into four geographic areas, in clockwise order: the North Shore, the East Side, the South Shore, and the West Side.

Kauai is the oldest and northernmost of the main Hawaiian Islands. Five million years of wind and rain have worked their magic, sculpting fluted sea cliffs and whittling away at the cinder cones and caldera that prove its volcanic origin. Foremost among these is Waialeale, one of the wettest spots on Earth. Its approximate 450-inch annual rainfall feeds the mighty Wailua River, the only navigable waterway in Hawaii. The vast Alakai Swamp soaks up rain like a sponge, releasing it slowly into the watershed that gives Kauai its emerald sheen.

Kauai’s residents have had a reputation for independence since ancient times. Called “The Separate Kingdom,” Kauai alone resisted King Kamehameha’s charge to unite the Hawaiian Islands. In fact, it was only by kidnapping Kauai’s king, Kaumualii, and forcing him to marry Kamehameha’s widow that the Garden Island was joined to the rest of Hawaii. That spirit lives on today as Kauai residents try to resist the lure of tourism dollars captivating the rest of the Islands. Local building tradition maintains that no structure be taller than a coconut tree, and Kauai’s capital, Lihue, is still more small town than city.

Although all of the islands have a few stories about the Menehune—magical, tiny people who accomplished great feats—Kauai is believed to be their home base. The Menehune Fishpond, above Nawilwili Harbor, is a prime example of their work. The story goes that the large pond (initially 25 miles in diameter) was built in one night by thousands of Menehune passing stones from hand to hand. A spy disrupted their work in the middle of the night, leaving two gaps that are still visible today (drive to the pond on Hulemalu Road, or kayak up Huleia Stream).

Planning

Getting Here and Around

AIR

On Kauai, visitors fly into Lihue Airport (LIH), on the East Side of the island. Visitor information booths are outside each baggage-claim area. Visitors will also find a newsstand, flower shop, Starbucks, bar, restaurant, and gift shop in the terminal.

For most domestic and international flights, however, Honolulu International Airport (HNL) is the main stopover. From Honolulu, interisland flights to Kauai depart regularly from early morning until evening. In addition, some carriers offer nonstop service directly from the U.S. mainland to Lihue Airport.

To travel interisland from Honolulu on Hawaiian Air, you will depart from the connected interisland terminal (Terminal 1). Southwest Airlines flies out of Terminal 2. A free bus service, the Wiki Wiki Shuttle, operates between terminals.

BUS

On Kauai, the County Transportation Agency operates the Kauai Bus, which provides service between Hanalei and Kekaha. It also provides limited service to the airport and to Koloa and Poipu. The fare is $2 for adults, and frequent-rider passes are available. The new North Shore Shuttle now operates to Kee Beach from either Waipa or Princeville, depending on road construction. Updates about fares, routes, and a hop-on, hop-off option are posted at wgohaena.com. The website wgetaroundkauai.com has information about resources for sustainable transportation choices.

CAR

The independent way to experience all of Kauai’s stunning beauty is to get in a car and explore. The 15-mile stretch of Napali Coast, with its breathtaking, verdant-green sheer cliffs, is the only outer part of the island that’s not accessible by car. Otherwise, one main road can get you from Barking Sands Beach on the West Side to Haena on the North Shore.

While driving on Kauai, you will come across several one-lane bridges. If you are the first to approach a bridge, the car on the other side will wait while you cross. If a car on the other side is closer to the bridge, then you should wait while the driver crosses. If you’re enjoying the island’s dramatic views, pull over to the shoulder so you don’t block traffic.

Only recently has Kauai instituted parking fees for nonresidents at a few popular tourist areas, and these fees are collected for upkeep. Still under consideration is a daily fee of $10 for nonresidents to park at high-use county beach parks. There is a $10 fee for nonresidents to park at Kee Beach, and a $10 fee for nonresidents covers the four fantastic lookouts over Waimea Canyon and in Kokee. Otherwise, there are parking meters at only a couple of state office buildings but no pay-to-park garages, tags, or lots. If there’s room on the side of the road, you probably can park there as long as your vehicle isn’t hanging into the road or blocking someone’s driveway.

It might not seem as if driving from the North Shore to the West Side, say, would take much time, as Kauai is smaller than Oahu, Maui, and certainly the Big Island. But it will take longer than you’d expect, and Kauai roads are subject to some heavy traffic, especially going through Kapaa and Lihue.

Hotels

There are several top-notch resorts on Kauai, as well as a wide variety of condos, vacation rentals, and bed-and-breakfasts to choose from.

lReserve your room far in advance. Be sure to ask about discounts and special packages (hotel websites often have online-only deals).

FHotel and restaurant reviews have been shortened. For more information, visit Fodors.com. Hotel prices are for two people in a standard double room in high season. Prices do not include 13.42% hotel tax. Restaurant prices are for a main course at dinner.

Restaurants

Kauai’s cultural diversity is apparent in its restaurants, which offer authentic Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Thai, Mexican, Italian, Vietnamese, and Hawaiian specialties. Less specialized restaurants cater to the tourist crowd, serving standard American fare—burgers, pizza, sandwiches, surf-and-turf combos, and so on. Poipu and Kapaa offer the best selection of restaurants, with options for a variety of tastes and budgets; most fast-food joints are in Lihue.

Parents will be relieved to encounter a tolerant attitude toward children, even if they’re noisy. Men can leave their jackets and ties at home; attire tends toward informal. But if you want to dress up, you can. Reservations are accepted in most places and required at some of the top restaurants.

If you’re lucky enough to win an invitation to a potluck, baby luau, or beach party, don’t think twice—just accept. The best grinds (food) are homemade, and so you’ll eat until you’re full, then rest, eat some more, and make a plate to take home, too.

But even if you can’t score a spot at one of these parties, don’t despair. Great local-style food is easy to come by at countless low-key places around the island. As an extra bonus, these eats are often inexpensive, and portions are generous. Expect plenty of meat—usually deep-fried or marinated in a teriyaki sauce and grilled pulehu-style (over an open fire)—and starches. Rice is standard, even for breakfast, and it’s often served alongside potato–macaroni salad, another island specialty. Another local favorite is poke, made from chunks of raw tuna or octopus seasoned with sesame oil, soy sauce, onions, and pickled seaweed. It’s a great pupu (appetizer) when paired with a cold beer.

Tours

Guided tours are convenient; you don’t have to worry about finding a parking spot or getting admission tickets. Certified tour guides have taken special classes in Hawaiian history and lore. On the other hand, you won’t have the freedom to proceed at your own pace, nor will you have the ability to take a detour trip if something else catches your attention.

Roberts Hawaii Tours

BUS TOURS | The “Hawaii Movie Tour” encompasses many scenic spots on windward Kauai and most of the popular movie locations. Waterfalls, isolated beaches, Kapaa, the idyllic Hanalei Valley with its taro fields, and Hanalei Pier are among the attractions on this eight-hour tour. Movie clips are shown in the air-conditioned 25-passenger minibus along the way. Pickups are offered at Lihue Airport and Eastside hotels; Poipu hotel pickups cost $10 more. Offered Monday, Wednesday, and Friday only. E3–4567 Kuhio Hwy., Hanamaulu P808/245–9558, 800/539–9400 wwww.robertshawaii.com/kauai AFrom $164 for tours.

Waimea Historic Tour

WALKING TOURS | FAMILY | The West Kauai Heritage Center offers a map for a self-guided walking tour of 10 spots in historic Waimea Town. Sometimes, they can arrange private car-based tours led by a local kupuna (elder), so inquire ahead. E9565 Kaumualii Hwy., Waimea (Kauai County) P808/338–1332 wwww.wsmmuseum.org A$10 suggested tour donation CClosed Mon. and weekends.

Visitor Information

Before you go, check the Kauai Visitors Bureau website (wwww.gohawaii.com/islands/kauai) for a free travel planner with information on accommodations, transportation, sports and activities, dining, arts and entertainment, and culture. You can also take a virtual tour of the island that includes great photos and helpful planning information. The Hawaii Tourism Authority’s website (wwww.gohawaii.com) offers tips on everything from packing to flying around the state.

The Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources site (wdlnr.hawaii.gov) has information on hiking, fishing, and camping permits and licenses; state parks; hiking safety and mountain and ocean preservation; and details on volunteer programs.

Go Haena (wgohaena.com) has details about the reservations and fees required to visit the popular park, beaches, and trails at the end of the road on Kauai’s North Shore; there’s also info about shuttle service.

Keep your beach time safe by checking out Hawaiian Beach Safety (whawaiibeachsafety.com) online before you head out.

The North Shore

The North Shore of Kauai includes the environs of Kilauea, Princeville, Hanalei, and Haena, as well as the world-famous Napali Coast. Heading north on Route 56 from the airport in Lihue, the coastal highway crosses the Wailua River and the busy towns of Wailua and Kapaa before emerging into a decidedly rural and scenic landscape, with expansive views of the island’s rugged interior mountains.

As the two-lane highway turns west and narrows, it winds through spectacular scenery and passes the posh resort community of Princeville before dropping down into Hanalei Valley. Here it narrows further and becomes a federally recognized scenic roadway, replete with one-lane bridges (the local etiquette is for five to seven cars to cross at a time, before yielding to those on the other side), hairpin turns, and heart-stopping coastal vistas. The road ends at Haena State Park and Kee Beach, where the ethereal rain forests and fluted sea cliffs of Napali Coast Wilderness State Park begin. Seeing Napali Coast by boat, on foot, or by helicopter is a highlight of any trip to Kauai.

Floods in 2018 caused major physical changes to the North Shore, including landslide areas and general infrastructure chaos. One result is a permitting system for visitors to Haena State Park, which begins with a check-in system at the park. Rules limit vehicles to 900 per day, compared with the previous average of 2,000 per day. The result is a less crowded and calmer atmosphere at Kee Beach.

From Kee Beach, you can hike 2 miles to Hanakapiai Beach on Napali Coast, and as long as you’ve come this far, you might as well take the 2-mile hike into Hanakapiai Valley to a towering 300-foot waterfall. Along the way you’ll see mind-blowing scenes of coastal beauty.

In winter, Kauai’s North Shore receives more rainfall than other areas of the island. Don’t let this deter you from visiting. The clouds drift over mountains, including Namolokama, creating a mysterious mood, and then, in a blink, disappear, rewarding you with mountains laced with a dozen waterfalls or more. The views of the mountain—as well as the sunsets over the ocean—from Hanalei Bay and Kee Beach are fantastic.

The North Shore attracts all kinds—from celebrities to surfers. In fact, the late Andy Irons, three-time world surfing champion, along with his brother Bruce and legend Laird Hamilton, grew up riding waves along the North Shore.

Hanalei, Haena, and West

Hanalei is 32 miles northwest of Lihue; Haena is 5 miles northwest of Hanalei.

Crossing the historic one-lane bridge into Hanalei reveals old Hawaii, including working taro farms, poi making, and evenings of throwing horseshoes at Black Pot Beach Park—the latter found unmarked (as many places are on Kauai) at the east end of Hanalei Bay Beach Park. Although the current real-estate boom on Kauai has attracted mainland millionaires to build estate homes on the few remaining parcels of land in Hanalei, there’s still plenty to see and do. It’s the gathering place on the North Shore. Dining, shopping, and people-watching here are among the best on the island, and you won’t find a single brand-name, chain, or big-box store around—unless you count surf brands like Quiksilver and Billabong.

The beach and river at Hanalei offer swimming, snorkeling, bodyboarding, surfing, and kayaking. Those hanging around at sunset often congregate at the Hanalei Pavilion. There’s an old rumor—since quashed by the local newspaper, the Garden Island—that says Hanalei was the inspiration for the song “Puff, the Magic Dragon,” performed by the 1960s singing sensation Peter, Paul, and Mary. Even with the newspaper’s clarification, some tours still point out the shape of the dragon carved into the mountains encircling the town.

Once you pass through Hanalei Town, the road shrinks even more as you skirt the coast and pass through Haena. Blind corners, quick turns, and one-lane bridges force slow driving along this scenic stretch across the Lumahai and Wainiha valleys. The road ends at Kee Beach and the Haena State Park entrance and parking lot.

s Sights

Hanalei Pier

MARINA/PIER | FAMILY | Built in 1892, the historic Hanalei Pier can be seen from miles across the bay and is a great spot for photos or taking a leisurely stroll; it attracts a gathering every sunset. The pier came to fame when it was featured in the award-winning 1957 movie South Pacific. Fishers fish here, and picnickers picnic. The pier was refurbished after flooding in 2018. EWeke Rd., Hanalei.

HHanalei Valley Overlook

VIEWPOINT | Dramatic mountains and a patchwork of neat taro farms bisected by the wide Hanalei River make this one of Hawaii’s loveliest views, even with the flood damage it sustained in 2018. The fertile Hanalei Valley has been planted with taro since perhaps AD 700, save for an 80-year-long foray into rice that ended in 1960. (The historic Haraguchi Rice Mill is all that remains of that era.) Many taro farmers lease land within the 900-acre Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, helping to provide wetland habitat for four species of endangered Hawaiian waterbirds. ERte. 56, Princeville jAcross from Foodland wwww.fws.gov/refuge/hanalei.

Hoopulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill

FARM/RANCH | FAMILY | Rice grew in the taro fields of Hanalei Valley for almost 80 years—beginning in the 1880s and ending in the early 1960s—and today this history is embodied in the Haraguchi family, whose ancestors threshed, hulled, polished, separated, graded, and bagged rice in their 3,500-square-foot rice mill. It was demolished once by fire and twice by hurricanes, and damaged by flooding in 2018 and 2021. Rebuilt to the standards of the National Register of Historic Places, the mill—with neighboring taro fields—is typically open for tours on a limited schedule mainly due to endangered-bird nesting areas. At the time of writing, tours were not available, but check the website or Instagram (@HanaleiTaro) for updates. The family still farms taro on the onetime rice paddies and also operates the Hanalei Taro & Juice Co. kiosk in Hanalei Town; see whanaleitaro.com. All proceeds from the historic rice mill go to nonprofit education programs. E5–5070A Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei jNext to Kayak Kauai P808/651–3399 wwww.haraguchiricemill.org A$70 for tour rReservations required for tour.

HLimahuli Garden and Preserve

GARDEN | FAMILY | Narrow Limahuli Valley, with its fluted mountain peaks and ancient stone taro terraces, creates an unparalleled setting for this botanical garden and nature preserve, one of the most gorgeous spots on Kauai and the crown jewel of the National Tropical Botanical Garden. Dedicated to protecting native plants and unusual varieties of taro, it represents the principles of conservation and stewardship held by its founder, Juliet Rice Wichman. Limahuli’s primordial beauty and strong mana (spiritual power) eclipse the extensive botanical collection. Call ahead to check if guided tours are being offered, or tour on your own. A reservation is required to park here, though North Shore Shuttle riders are exempt. lCheck out the quality gift shop and revolutionary compost toilet, and be prepared to walk a somewhat steep hillside. E5–8291 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei P808/826–1053 wntbg.org/gardens/limahuli A$30 for self-guided tour; $60 for guided tour (when available); $5 discount if arriving via shuttle CClosed Sun. and Mon.

Maniniholo Dry Cave

CAVE | Across the highway from Haena Beach Park is Maniniholo Dry Cave, a place steeped in legends. You can walk for a few minutes through a 30-yard-long cave, which darkens and becomes more claustrophobic as you glide across its sandy floor, hearing the drips down the walls and wondering at its past. Legend has it that Maniniholo was the head fisherman of the Menehune—Kauai’s quasi-mythical first inhabitants. After gathering too much food to carry, Maniniholo’s men stored the excess under a cliff overnight. When he returned in the morning, the food had vanished, and he blamed the imps living in the cliff’s cracks. He and his men dug into the cliff to find and destroy the imps, leaving behind the dry cave. ERte. 560, Haena AFree.

Waioli Mission House

HISTORIC HOME | Built by missionaries William and Mary Alexander, this 1837 home has tidy New England–style architecture and formal koa-wood furnishings that epitomize the prim and proper missionary influence. Informative guided tours offer a fascinating peek into the private lives of Kauai’s early white residents. One-hour private guided tours are available on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday from 9 am to 3 pm on a first-come, first-served basis. E5–5373 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei P808/826–1528 wgrovefarm.org/waiolimissionhouse A$10 requested tour donation.

; Beaches

HHaena Beach Park

BEACH | This drive-up beach park favored by campers year-round has a wide bay named Makua bordered by two large reef systems, creating favorable waves for skilled surfers during peak winter conditions. Entering the water can be dangerous in winter when the big swells roll in. In July and August, waters at this same beach are usually as calm as a lake, and throughout summer this is a premier snorkeling site. It’s not unusual to find a food vendor parked here, selling sandwiches and drinks out of a converted bread van. Adjacent to this beach is Tunnels Beach. FNote that this is not the same beach as Kee Beach, which is located in Haena State Park.

Parking is extremely limited (the lot typically fills up by 8:30 am), and all vehicles illegally parked outside of designated parking zones are subject to fines and towing. You can also park your car in the shuttle parking lot in Waipa, west of Hanalei Town, and board the North Shore Shuttle for a ride to the beach park ($40 round-trip with seven stops); see wgohaena.com for details and reservations. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; surfing; walking. ERte. 560, Haena jNear end of Rte. 560, across from Maniniholo Dry Cave AFree.

HHanalei Bay

BEACH | FAMILY | This 2-mile crescent beach cradles a wide bay in a setting that is quintessential Hawaii: the sea is on one side, and behind you are the mountains, often ribboned with waterfalls and changing color in the shifting light. In winter, Hanalei Bay boasts some of the biggest onshore surf breaks in the state, attracting world-class surfers, and the beach is plenty wide enough for sunbathing and strolling. In summer, the bay is transformed—calm waters lap the beach, sailboats moor in the bay, and outrigger-canoe paddlers ply the sea. Pack the cooler, haul out the beach umbrellas, and don’t forget the beach toys because Hanalei Bay is worth scheduling for an entire day, maybe two. Several county beach parks—some with pavilions, and all with ample facilities—can be found along the bay: Black Pot (east bay, between the pier and the river mouth, named for the large cookpot used for traditional communal gatherings here), Hanalei Pavilion (west of Black Pot), and Waioli (west of Hanalei Pavilion, with three parking lots accessed off Weke Road). Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; surfing; swimming; walking. EWeke Rd., Hanalei AFree.

Hanakapiai Beach

BEACH | If you’re not up for the full 11-mile haul to Kalalau Beach, you can see part of Napali Coast via a 2-mile hike to Hanakapiai Beach, which fronts a tropical valley. It’ll take about two hours from the starting point at the Kee Beach parking area in Haena State Park, and you’ll have plenty of company on the trail. You cannot hike the Kalalu Trail beyond this beach without a permit. This is no longer a secluded beach, although it is still wilderness, and you’ll find no amenities except pit toilets.

We do not recommend swimming or any water activities at this beach. The ocean here is what locals like to call “confused,” and Hanakapiai Bay has been the site of numerous drownings. In winter, surf often eats up the beach, exposing lava-rock boulders backing the sand. Be cautious when crossing the stream that runs through the valley, as it can quickly flood, stranding hikers on the wrong side. This has resulted in helicopter rescues and even deaths, as people are swept out to sea while attempting to cross. lA new bridge makes the passage easier, but don’t attempt to cross during heavy rain. Amenities: toilets. Best for: sunset. ENapali Coast State Wilderness Park, Kalalau Trail, Rte. 560, Haena jEnd of Rte. 560, 7 miles west of Hanalei wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp A$5 nonresident entrance fee for Haena State Park; $10 per vehicle for parking for nonresidents xTrailhead for hike to beach starts at Kee Beach; see gohaena.com for information about parking reservations.

Best Beaches by Activity ;

He says “to-mah-toe,” and she says “to- may-toe.” When it comes to beaches on Kauai, the meaning behind that axiom holds true: people are different. What thrills one person may leave another cold. Here are some suggestions for choosing a beach that’s right for you.

Best for Families

Lydgate State Park, East Side. The kid-designed playground, the protected swimming pools, and Kamalani Kai Bridge guarantee you will not hear these words from your child: “Mom, I’m bored.”

Poipu Beach Park, South Shore. The keiki (children’s) pool and lifeguards make this a safe spot for kids. The near-perpetual sun isn’t so bad, either.

Best Stand-Up Paddling

Anini Beach Park, North Shore. The reef and long stretch of beach give beginners a calm place to try stand-up paddling. You won’t get pummeled by waves here.

Wailua Beach, East Side. The Wailua River bisects the beach and heads inland 2 miles, providing stand-up paddlers with a long and scenic stretch of water before they have to figure out how to turn around.

Best Surfing

Hanalei Bay, North Shore. In winter, Hanalei Bay offers a range of breaks, from beginner to advanced. Surfing legends Laird Hamilton and the Irons brothers grew up surfing the waters of Hanalei.

Waiohai Beach, South Shore. Surf instructors flock to this spot with their students for its gentle near-shore break. Then, as students advance, they can paddle out a little farther to an intermediate break—if they’re ready.

Best Sunsets

Kee Beach, North Shore. Even in winter, when the sun sets in the south and out of view, you won’t be disappointed here because “golden hour,” as photographers call the time around sunset, paints Napali Coast with a warm gold light. Plan ahead, as reservations are required and visitor numbers are limited: wgohaena.com.

Polihale State Park, West Side. This due-west-facing beach may be tricky to get to, but it does offer the most unobstructed sunset views on the island. The fact that it’s so remote means you won’t have strangers in your photos, but you will have the island of Niihau in view. Plan to depart right after sunset or risk getting spooked in the dark.

Best for Celeb Spotting

Haena Beach Park, North Shore. Behind the gated driveways and heavily foliaged yards that line this beach live—at least, part-time—some of the world’s most celebrated music and movie moguls. Plan ahead and reserve at wgohaena.com.

Hanalei Bay, North Shore. We know we tout this beach often, but it deserves the praise. It’s a mecca for everyone: regular Joes, surfers, fishers, young people, older folks, locals, visitors, and, especially, the famous. You may also recognize Hanalei Bay from the 2011 movie The Descendants.

HKee Beach

BEACH | Highway 560 on the North Shore literally dead-ends at this beach, pronounced kay-eh, which is also the start of the challenging, permit-required 11-mile Kalalau Trail on Napali Coast and a culturally significant area to Native Hawaiians, who still use an ancient heiau (a stone platform used as a place of worship) dedicated to hula. (It’s not appropriate to hang out on the platform or leave offerings there; stay at a respectful distance.) The setting is gorgeous, with Makana (a prominent peak that Hollywood dubbed “Bali Hai” in the blockbuster musical South Pacific) imposing itself on the lovely coastline and lots of lush tropical vegetation.

The small beach is protected by a reef—except during high surf—creating a small sandy-bottom lagoon that’s a popular snorkeling spot. There can be a strong current in winter. A mandatory permit system limits guests and prevents overcrowding. Unless you are a Hawaii resident with identification, you must reserve a spot online (reservations open 30 days prior); the prized spaces sell out weeks in advance. Alternatively, you can buy a ticket for the shuttle service that transports visitors from the commuter lot in Waipa (west of Hanalei Town), which includes entrance to Haena State Park and Kee Beach. See wgohaena.com for reservations. Parking passes are valid during specified time periods. The parking area is ⅓ mile from the beach on a path partially on a boardwalk, so be prepared to lug your beach gear. Kee Beach is a great place to watch the sunset lighting up Napali Coast. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; sunset; swimming; walking. EHaena State Park, Rte. 560 jEnd of Rte. 560, 7 miles west of Hanalei wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp A$5 per person nonresident entry fee; $10 for nonresident vehicle parking.

Lumahai Beach

BEACH | Famous as the beach where Nurse Nellie washed that man right out of her hair in South Pacific, Lumahai is picturesque, with a river and ironwood grove on the western end and stands of hala (pandanus) trees and black lava rock on the eastern side. In between is a long stretch of olivine-flecked sand that can be wide or narrow, depending on the surf. The beach can be accessed in two places from the highway; one involves a steep hike from the road. Avoid swimming and water activities here—the ocean can be dangerous, with a snapping shore break year-round and monster swells in the winter; in addition, the current can be strong near the river. Parking is very limited, along the road or in a rough dirt lot near the river. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; sunset; walking. EHanalei jOn winding section of Rte. 560, near Mile Marker 5 AFree.

r Restaurants

HBar Acuda

$$$$ | TAPAS | Hip and pricey, this tapas bar is a top place in Hanalei in terms of flavor and creativity, with food that’s often organic and consistently remarkable. The dining room is super-casual but chic, with a welcoming bar and a nice porch for outdoor dining. Known for: sophisticated eclectic cuisine; short, often-changing menu with innovative specials; interesting wine list. DAverage main: $42 EHanalei Center, 5–5161 Kuhio Hwy., Suite 4, Hanalei P808/826–7081 wwww.cudahanalei.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

HThe Hanalei Dolphin

$$$ | SEAFOOD | Fresh fish caught in local waters by local fishers take star billing at this upscale tropical-theme restaurant and sushi lounge on the banks of the Hanalei River. There are also many land-based dishes on the menu, including Hawaiian and haole (white-people) chicken, beef tenderloin, and steaks. Known for: fresh local ingredients; extensive wine and sake list; on-site fish market also carries cheeses and steaks. DAverage main: $32 E5–5016 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei P808/826–6113 whanaleidolphin.com CNo lunch.

The Hanalei Gourmet

$$ | AMERICAN | Hanalei’s restored old schoolhouse holds an airy restaurant offering dolphin-safe tuna, low-sodium meats, fresh-baked breads, and house-made desserts, as well as a casual atmosphere where both families and the sports-watching crowd can feel equally comfortable. Lunch and dinner menus feature sandwiches, burgers, hearty salads, a variety of pupus (appetizers), and nightly specials of fresh local fish. Known for: friendly bar; consistently good food; fish taco nights. DAverage main: $20 EHanalei Center, 5–5161 Kuhio Hwy., Space 5, Hanalei P808/826–2524 wwww.hanaleigourmet.com.

Opakapaka Grill and Bar

$$ | HAWAIIAN | Named after a seasonal local fish, Opakapaka is the only oceanside restaurant on Kauai’s North Shore and is a great place to stop for a meal or a quick bite on the way to or from Haena State Park and Kee Beach. The longtime community gathering hub serves local fish and seafood, burgers, steaks (try the rib eye), and pasta; add shrimp to your salads and fried rice sides. Known for: fish tacos (crispy or grilled); fish-and-chips; live entertainment several nights a week, starting at 6 pm. DAverage main: $29 E5–7132 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei P808/378–4425 wwww.opakapakagrillandbar.com.

Postcards Café

$$$ | AMERICAN | This plantation-cottage restaurant built in 1864 has a menu full of local seafood but also offers Wagyu beef, roasted rack of lamb, and other land-based options, with eclectic flavor profiles reflecting the chef’s global travel experiences. Top menu picks include crispy leek salad with buckwheat noodles, catch of the day, and chèvre cheesecake with coconut crust and lilikoi (passion fruit) gel. Known for: local-market fish and vegetarian and gluten-free options; cozy dining room in historic setting; desserts with no refined sugar. DAverage main: $40 E5–5075A Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei P808/826–1191 wwww.postcardscafe.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

The Terrace Hanalei

$$$ | JAPANESE FUSION | Perched on the second story of a building in Ching Young Village, The Terrace offers sweeping mountain views along with stellar sushi and fresh-fish dishes in a lively environment that attracts the local post-work crowd. There’s a sushi menu (try anything with the special beet-cured kampachi), plus a main menu with small plates, appetizers, and daily special entrées. Known for: elaborate and unusual sushi rolls and combos; lively bar with an extensive sake selection; grilled kampachi with creamy fish velouté. DAverage main: $37 E5–5190 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei P808/212–1121 wtheterracehanalei.com CClosed Tues. and Wed. No lunch.

h Hotels

Hanalei Colony Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | The only true beachfront resort on Kauai’s North Shore, Hanalei Colony is a laid-back, go-barefoot kind of resort sandwiched between towering mountains and the sea. Pros: kitchens in units; private quiet property; well-maintained units with Hawaiian-style furnishings. Cons: weak cell phone reception; damp in winter; no TVs, room phones, or air-conditioning (rooms have ceiling fans). DRooms from: $404 E5–7130 Kuhio Hwy., Haena P808/826–6235, 800/628–3004 wwww.hcr.com a48 units XNo Meals x2-night minimum stay required.

Hanalei Inn

$$ | APARTMENT | If you’re looking for lodgings that won’t break the bank and put you just a block from gorgeous Hanalei Bay, look no further, as this is literally the only choice among the town’s pricey vacation rentals. Pros: quick walk to beach, bus stop, and shops; full kitchen; coin-operated laundry on-site. Cons: strict cancellation policy; daytime traffic noise; older property. DRooms from: $219 E5–5468 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei P808/826–9333, 877/769–5484 wwww.hanaleiinn.net a4 studios XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

The Hanalei Gourmet Bar

BARS | The sleepy North Shore stays awake—until 10:30, that is—each evening in this small convivial deli and bar inside Hanalei’s restored old schoolhouse. There’s local live Hawaiian, jazz, rock, and folk music on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday evenings. EHanalei Center, 5–5161 Kuhio Hwy., Space 5, Hanalei P808/826–2524 wwww.hanaleigourmet.com.

Tahiti Nui

BARS | This venerable and funky institution in sleepy Hanalei still offers its famous luau at 5 on Tuesday and Wednesday evenings, although the bar is the big attraction. The spirits of locals and visitors alike are always high at this popular hangout, which features live music nightly from 6:30 to 8:30 pm. E5–5122 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei P808/826–6277 wwww.thenui.com.

b Shopping

Ching Young Village

SHOPPING CENTER | This popular family-run shopping center has its roots in the Chinese immigrants who came to Hawaii in the early 19th century. Hanalei’s only full-service grocery store is here, along with other shops useful to locals and visitors, such as a music shop selling ukuleles and CDs, jewelry stores, art galleries, a surf shop, a variety store, and several restaurants. E5–5190 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei jNear Mile Marker 2 P808/826–7222 wchingyoungvillage.com.

Crystal & Gems Gallery

JEWELRY & WATCHES | Sparkling crystals of every shape, size, type, and color, as well as locally made jewelry and paintings, are sold in this amply stocked boutique. The knowledgeable staff can help you choose crystals for specific healing purposes. E4489 Aku Rd., Suite A, Hanalei P808/826–9304 wwww.crystals-gems.com.

Hanalei Center

SHOPPING CENTER | Once an old schoolhouse, the Hanalei Center now houses a bevy of boutiques and restaurants. You can dig through ‘40s and ‘50s vintage memorabilia, find Polynesian artifacts, or search for that unusual gift, including fine jewelry and paper-art jewelry. Buy beach gear as well as island wear and women’s clothing. A full-service salon and a yoga studio are in the two-story modern addition to the center. E5–5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei jNear Mile Marker 2 P808/826–7677.

Princeville, Kilauea, and Around

Princeville is 4 miles northeast of Hanalei; Kilauea is 5 miles east of Princeville.

Built on a bluff offering gorgeous sea and mountain vistas, including Hanalei Bay, Princeville is the creation of a 1970s resort development. A few large hotels, world-class golf courses, and lots of condos and time-shares anchor the area.

Five miles east down Route 56, Kilauea, a former sugar plantation town, maintains its rural flavor in the midst of unrelenting gentrification encroaching on all sides. Especially noteworthy are its historic lava-rock buildings, including Christ Memorial Episcopal Church on Kolo Road and the former Kong Lung Company on Keneke Street at Kilauea Road (commonly known as Lighthouse Road), which is now a shop.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

There is only one main road, Route 56, through the Princeville resort area, so maneuvering a car here can be a nightmare. If you’re trying to find a smaller lodging unit, get specific driving directions. Parking is available at the Princeville Shopping Center at the entrance to the resort. Kilauea, about 5 miles east on Route 56, has a public parking lot in the town center as well as parking at the end of Kilauea Road for access to the lighthouse.

s Sights

Anaina Hou Community Park

MINIATURE GOLF | FAMILY | The island’s first miniature-golf course comes with a small botanical garden and a 300-seat theater/arts center. The 18-hole course was designed to be challenging, beautiful, and family-friendly. Replacing the typical clown’s nose and spinning wheels are some water features and tropical tunnels. Surrounding each hole is plant life that walks players through different eras of Hawaiian history.

The Porter Pavilion hosts concerts, plays, private parties, and community meetings. A children’s playground made from recycled materials is also on-site, and a gift shop with local products and a concessions counter make this place a fun activity for any time of day. On Saturday morning, a farmers’ market adjacent to the course sells fresh Kauai produce and local goods. Sign up for the on-site cooking class, which includes a walk through the market and cooking vegan dishes with the local bounty. E5–2723 Kuhio Hwy., Kilauea P808/828–2118 wanainahou.org A$19; $15 for kids 4–12 CMinigolf closed Mon. and Tues.

HKilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge and Kilauea Lighthouse

WILDLIFE REFUGE | FAMILY | A beacon for sea traffic since it was dedicated in 1913, this National Historic Landmark has the world’s largest clamshell lens in a lighthouse and stands within a wildlife refuge where thousands of seabirds soar on the trade winds and nest on the steep ocean cliffs. It’s well worth the site’s modest entry fee to see nene geese (the state bird, a threatened species), white- and red-tailed tropic birds, and more (identifiable by educational signboards), as well as native plants, dolphins, humpback whales (in season), the huge winter surf, and gorgeous North Shore views. The gift shop has a great selection of books about the island’s natural history and an array of unique merchandise, with all proceeds benefiting education and preservation efforts. Advance reservations are required via wrecreation.gov. EKilauea Lighthouse Rd., Kilauea P808/828–0384 wwww.fws.gov/refuge/kilauea-point, www.kauairefuges.org A$10; free for kids under 16 CClosed Sun.–Tues. rReservations required via recreation.gov.

HNa Aina Kai Botanical Gardens & Sculpture Park

GARDEN | Joyce and Ed Doty’s love for plants and art spans the 240 acres here and includes many different gardens, a hardwood plantation, an ahupuaa (a Hawaiian land division), a re-created Navajo compound, an Athabascan village, a Japanese teahouse, a hedge maze, a waterfall, and access to a sandy beach. Throughout the grounds are more than 200 bronze sculptures, one of the nation’s largest collections. One popular feature is a children’s garden with a 16-foot-tall Jack and the Beanstalk bronze sculpture, gecko maze, tree house, kid-size train, and, of course, a tropical jungle. Located in a residential neighborhood and hoping to maintain good neighborly relations, the nonprofit organization limits tours. Tour lengths vary from 1½ to 5 hours. Reservations are required for all tours, including the self-guided stroll. E4101 Wailapa Rd., Kilauea P808/828–0525 wnaainakai.org ATours from $20 CClosed weekends rReservations required for all tours.

Princeville Botanical Gardens

GARDEN | Set on a private estate on the mauka (mountain side) of Kam Highway across from Princeville, these well-tended gardens include a diverse collection of native and “canoe” plants (brought by Polynesians), plus medicinal, rare, and endangered flowers. Visitors can join three-hour guided tours of the entire property, usually offered four mornings a week at 9:30 am. Tours include samples of seasonal fruit and honey from on-site beehives and a half-hour chocolate tasting. Reservations are required (no self-guided tours); book early, as tours fill well in advance. E3840 Ahonui Pl., Princeville P808/634–5505 wkauaibotanicalgardens.com A$95; $40 for kids rReservations required for tours.

; Beaches

Anini Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | A great family park, Anini features one of the longest and widest fringing reefs in all Hawaii, creating a shallow lagoon that is good for snorkeling and kids splashing about, even though there are no lifeguards. It is safe except for when strong currents are created by the surf raging outside the reef. A rip current exists between the two reefs where the boats enter and exit the beach ramp, so avoid swimming there. The entire reef follows the shoreline for some 2 miles and extends 1,600 feet offshore at its widest point. There’s a narrow ribbon of sandy beach with lots of grass and shade, as well as a county campground at the western end and a small boat ramp. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunrise; swimming; walking. EAnini Rd., Princeville jOff Rte. 56 AFree.

Kahili Beach (Rock Quarry Beach)

BEACH | You wouldn’t know it today, but this beach on Kilauea Bay was once an interisland steamer landing and a rock quarry. Today, it’s a fairly quiet beach—although when the surf closes out many other North Shore surf spots, the break directly offshore from Kilauea Stream near the abandoned quarry is still rideable. For the regular oceangoer, summer’s the best bet, although the quickly sloping ocean bottom makes for generally treacherous swimming. The stream estuary is quite beautiful, and the ironwood trees and false kamani growing in the generous sand dunes at the rear of the beach provide protection from the sun. It’s a wonderful place to observe seabirds. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; surfing; walking. EWailapa Rd., Kilauea jOff Wailapa Rd., turn left on the dirt road and follow to end.

Kalihiwai Beach

BEACH | A winding road leads down a cliff face to picture-perfect Kalihiwai Beach, which fronts a bay of the same name. It’s another one of those drive-up beaches, so it’s very accessible. Most people park under the grove of ironwood trees, near the stream, where young kids like to splash and older kids like to bodyboard. zThe stream carries leptospirosis, a potentially lethal bacteria that can enter through open cuts. In winter months, beware of a treacherous shore break. Summer is the only truly safe time to swim. The local-favorite winter surf spot off the eastern edge of the beach is for advanced surfers only. Toilets here are the portable kind, and there are no showers. Amenities: parking (no fee); toilets. Best for: solitude; surfing; swimming; walking. EKalihiwai Rd., Kilauea jOn Kilauea side of Kalihiwai Bridge AFree.

Kauapea Beach (Secret Beach)

BEACH | This beach was relatively unknown—except by local fishers, of course—for a long time, hence the common reference to it as “Secret Beach.” You’ll understand why once you stand on the coarse white sands of Kauapea and see the solid wall of rock that runs the length of the beach, making it fairly inaccessible. For the hardy, there is a steep hike down the western end. From there, you can walk for a long way in either direction in summer. During winter, big swells cut off access to sections of the beach. You may witness dolphins just offshore, and it’s a great place to see seabirds, as Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge and its historic lighthouse lie at the eastern end. Nudity is not uncommon, though it is illegal in Hawaii. A consistent onshore break typically makes swimming here very dangerous. On big-surf days, don’t go near the shoreline. Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: solitude; sunrise; walking. EKalihiwai Rd., Kilauea jJust past the turnoff for Kilauea AFree.

Larsen’s Beach

BEACH | The long wide fringing reef is this beach’s trademark. The waters near shore are generally too shallow for swimming; if you go in, wear a rash guard to protect against prickly sea urchins and sharp coral on the bottom. This area is known for its tricky currents, especially during periods of high surf, and has been the site of numerous drownings. It can be dangerous to snorkel here. There’s some nudity at the western end. Accessing this long strand of coarse white sand requires hiking down a steep rocky trail that is slippery when wet. Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: solitude; sunrise; walking. ELarson Beach Rd., off Koolau Rd., Kilauea jLook for dirt road and “Beach Access” sign AFree.

Pali Ke Kua Beach (Hideaways)

BEACH | This is actually two very small pocket beaches separated by a slender rocky point. The narrow beach area can all but disappear in wintertime. However, in summer, the steep rocky trail (don’t trust the rusty handrails and rotting ropes) that provides access reduces the number of beachgoers, at times creating a deserted beach feel. Winter’s high surf creates dangerous conditions. The parking lot is small. lDon’t attempt the trail after a heavy rain—it turns into a mudslide. Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: sunset; surfing. EEnd of Ka Haku Rd., Princeville jOn dirt trail between parking lot and condominium complex AFree.

Puu Poa Beach

BEACH | The coastline along the community of Princeville is primarily made up of sea cliffs with a couple of pocket beaches. The sea cliffs end with a long narrow stretch of beach just east of the Hanalei River. Public access is via 100-plus steps around the back of 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay; hotel guests can take the elevator to sea level. The beach itself is subject to the hazards of winter’s surf, narrowing and widening with the surf height. On calm days, snorkeling is good thanks to a shallow reef system pocked with sand. Sometimes a shallow sandbar extends across the river to Black Pot Beach Park, part of the Hanalei Beach system, making it easy to cross the river. On high-surf days, the outer edge of the reef near the river draws internationally ranked surfers. The 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay pool is off-limits to nonguests, but the hotel’s restaurants and bars are not. Note that parking is limited. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee). Best for: snorkeling; sunset; surfing. EEnd of Ka Haku Rd., Princeville jOff Rte. 560 AFree.

r Restaurants

Kilauea Bakery & Pizzeria

$$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Open from 6:30 am, the bakery serves coffee drinks, delicious fresh pastries, bagels, and breads in the morning, but late risers should beware: breads and pastries sell out quickly. Pizza (including a gluten-free dough option), soup, and salads can be ordered for lunch or dinner. Known for: Hawaiian sourdough starter made with guava; specialty pizzas topped with eclectic ingredients; fresh chocolate chip cookies made in-house daily. DAverage main: $24 EKong Lung Center, 2484 Keneke St., Kilauea P808/828–2020 wwww.kilaueabakery.com.

Kilauea Market + Café

$$ | HAWAIIAN | Order freshly prepared Hawaiian and American meals—breakfast, lunch, and dinner—snacks, beer, and wine at the counter at this casual contemporary restaurant, coffee bar, and beer and wine bar in an upscale grocery store. The extensive and eclectic menus include something for everyone, from loco moco (white rice topped with a hamburger patty, brown gravy, and fried egg), plate lunches, and fresh-catch fish-and-chips to pizzas, burgers, salads, and sandwiches. Known for: indoor and outdoor seating; daily specials; convenient stop on the way to and from lighthouse and beaches. DAverage main: $20 E2555 Ala Namahana Pkwy., Kilauea P808/828–2837 wwww.kilaueamarket.com.

Nanea Restaurant & Bar

$$$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | The signature restaurant of the Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas has casual open-air seating that perfectly complements an island-style menu sure to please a wide range of diners. Grilled rib eye is served with bacon-and-sour cream mashed potatoes, while the chicken—smoked kalua style—is accompanied by Molokai sweet potatoes. Known for: poolside setting with ocean views; inventive cocktails; local ingredients. DAverage main: $40 EThe Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas, 3838 Wyllie Rd., Princeville P808/827–8808 wwww.marriott.com.

1 Kitchen

$$$$ | HAWAIIAN | The signature restaurant at 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay serves fresh local-focused fare in an open airy space overlooking the sea. Local farms, purveyors, and the resort’s organic rooftop garden supply most of the ingredients here; the seasonal dinner menu has several options that showcase local greens, plus house-made pastas, grilled local fish, and sides like shoestring za’atar fries. Known for: extensive breakfast buffet; extensive wine lists with sustainable and biodynamic wines; weeklong culinary events featuring guest chefs. DAverage main: $54 E5520 Ka Haku Rd., Princeville P808/826–9644‬ wwww.1hotels.com/hanalei-bay CNo lunch.

Sushigirl Kauai

$ | SUSHI | Pick up some of Kauai’s tastiest made-to-order rolls, sushi burritos, and poke bowls with ahi, smoked salmon, and (sometimes) ono at this modest trailer. Dine in the adjacent courtyard (snag a table with an umbrella) or picnic at the beach. Known for: fresh, local, organic ingredients; veggie and vegan options; entire menu is gluten-free. DAverage main: $17 EKong Lung Center, 2484 Kaneke St., Kilauea P808/320–8646 wwww.sushigirlkauai.com.

HWelina Terrace

$$$$ | ASIAN FUSION | A sleek upscale restaurant with sweeping views over Hanalei Bay, Welina serves multicultural dishes with a modern Japanese flair, made with sustainably sourced ingredients derived mostly from Kauai, other Hawaiian islands, and the resort’s organic rooftop garden. The menu focuses on small shareable plates (sushi and sashimi); savor your meal indoors or out on the terrace, where you can also enjoy fantastic sunsets and craft cocktails. Known for: sake sommelier who curates more than two dozen sake labels, plus Japanese whiskeys and beers; omakase experience; A5 Wagyu beef. DAverage main: $50 E5520 Ka Haku Rd., Princeville P808/826–9644‬ wwww.1hotels.com/hanalei-bay CNo lunch.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Kai Bar Kilauea

$ | AMERICAN | A sibling of popular Java Kai in Kapaa, this Kilauea coffee joint serves breakfast and lunch until 2 pm. Order online ahead of time, otherwise risk a lengthy wait. Known for: healthful smoothies and bowls; house-roasted coffee; free Wi-Fi. DAverage main: $16 E2555 Ala Namahana Pkwy., Kilauea P808/828–2810 wjavakai.com/pages/kai-bar.

Moloaa Sunrise Juice Bar & Fruit Stand

$ | AMERICAN | Don’t let the name fool you; they don’t open at sunrise (more like 7:30 am, so come here after you watch the sunrise elsewhere). And it’s not just a fruit stand: fill up on bagels, pancakes, smoothies, and coffee drinks in the morning; homemade salads, burritos, panini, and sandwiches for lunch; and tropical-style fresh juices, such as pineapple, carrot, watermelon, and guava, anytime. Known for: great spot to stretch your legs and pick up food for a picnic; local fruits and vegetables for sale; fresh natural ingredients. DAverage main: $12 E6011 Koolau Rd., Kilauea jAt Kuhio Hwy. P808/822–1441 wwww.moloaasunrisefruitstand.com CClosed Sat.–Tues.; No dinner.

North Shore General Store

$ | AMERICAN | Attached to a gas station and small-items store, this classic hole-in-the-wall has the best deals for a take-out breakfast or lunch on the North Shore. The local-beef burgers have a loyal following, and you may have to get in line for the lunchtime favorite: chili-pepper chicken. Known for: espresso bar and homestyle breakfast and lunch plates; closes at 7:30 pm; food truck at Anini Beach. DAverage main: $15 EPrinceville Shopping Center, 5–4280 Kuhio Hwy., Princeville P808/826–1122 wpizzakauai.com CNo dinner.

Trilogy

$ | CAFÉ | A tiny café with a huge local following, Trilogy serves artisanal coffee, tea, chai, and various specialty drinks, plus an array of sweet and savory treats, from avocado toast with macadamia pesto and za’atar seasoning to cakes and cookies. Known for: organic, raw, gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options; creative tea, coffee, and chai blends; lilikoi (passion fruit) cake. DAverage main: $13 EKilauea Plantation Center, 4270 Kilauea Rd., Kilauea wwww.trilogycoffeekauai.com CNo dinner.

h Hotels

Hanalei Bay Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | The nicest feature of this three-story condominium resort overlooking Hanalei Bay is its upper-level pool with authentic lava-rock waterfalls, an open-air hot tub, and a kid-friendly sand beach. Pros: beautiful views; restaurant, pool, tennis courts, and fitness center on property; lively lounge. Cons: steep walkways; some units far from main building and restaurant; long walk to beach. DRooms from: $450 E5380 Honoiki Rd., Princeville P808/826–6522, 877/344–0688 wwww.hanaleibayresort.com a134 units XNo Meals.

H1 Hotel Hanalei Bay

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | This swanky sustainable wellness resort—formerly the St. Regis Princeville—offers expansive views of the sea and mountains, including Makana, the landmark peak immortalized as mysterious “Bali Hai” in the film South Pacific. Pros: state-of-the-art spa and gym; extensive activities, from yoga and guided hikes to cocktails and cooking classes; attractive lobby area in a lush garden setting. Cons: minimal grounds; beach not ideal for swimming; expensive even for the area. DRooms from: $1,145 E5520 Ka Haku Rd., Princeville P808/826–9644, 808/977–1155 booking wwww.1hotels.com/hanalei-bay a252 rooms XNo Meals.

The Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Spread out over 18½ acres on a bluff above Anini Beach, this Westin property marries the comforts of spacious condominium living with the top-notch service and amenities of a luxurious hotel resort. Pros: on-site minimarket; ocean views; kids’ program. Cons: path to the nearby beach is a steep six- to seven-minute walk; whirlpool tub is small; units can be far from parking. DRooms from: $650 E3838 Wyllie Rd., Princeville P808/827–8700 wwww.marriott.com a366 units XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

HHappy Talk Lounge

BARS | You can sip an umbrella cocktail while you gaze at the original “Bali Hai” from this lounge, open on two sides and offering breezy views across Hanalei Bay to plush emerald mountains. If you think the scene looks familiar, maybe you’ve seen the classic movie South Pacific, filmed here. “Bali Hai” is actually Kauai’s Mt. Makana. Order a tropical cocktail and pupu and enjoy a truly enchanted evening as the sun sets over the sparkling waters. Local musicians entertain guests Thursday through Monday. lNearby Tunnels Beach (aka Haena Beach and Makua) is often called Nurses’ Beach, where Mitzi Gaynor sang about washing that man right outta her hair; Hanalei Bay is where Bloody Mary sang “Bali Hai.” EHanalei Bay Resort, 5380 Honoiki Rd., Princeville P808/431–4084 wwww.happytalklounge.com.

b Shopping

Kong Lung Trading

SOUVENIRS | Sometimes called the Gump’s of Kauai, this store sells elegant clothing, glassware, books, gifts, and artwork—all very lovely and expensive. The shop is housed in a beautiful 1892 stone building in the heart of Kilauea. It’s the showpiece of the pretty little Kong Lung Center, where everything from handmade soaps to hammocks can be found. A great bakery and pizza joint (Kilauea Bakery & Pizzeria) rounds out the center’s offerings, along with an exhibit of historical photos. EKong Lung Center, 2484 Keneke St., Kilauea P808/828–1822 wkonglungkauai.com.

Princeville Shopping Center

SHOPPING CENTER | The big draws at this small center are a full-service grocery store and a hardware store, but there’s also the North Shore General Store (famed for its burgers and other food to-go), a fun toy store, a bar, a mailing service, a nice sandal boutique, women’s clothing, and an ice cream shop. This is also the last stop for gas and banking when you’re heading west along the North Shore. E5–4280 Kuhio Hwy., Princeville jNear Mile Marker 28 P808/826–9497 wwww.princevillecenter.com.

Napali Coast

Napali Coast is considered the jewel of Kauai, and for all its greenery, it would surely be an emerald. After seeing the coast, many are at a loss for words because its beauty is so overwhelming. Others resort to poetry. Pulitzer Prize–winning poet W. S. Merwin wrote a novel-in-verse, The Folding Cliffs, based on a true story set in Napali. Napali means “the cliffs,” and while that sounds like a simple name, it’s quite an apt description. The coastline is cut by a series of small valleys, like fault lines, running to the interior, with the resulting cliffs seeming to bend back on themselves like an accordion-folded fan made of green velvet. More than 5 million years old, these sea cliffs rise as high as 4,000 feet above the Pacific, and every shade of green is represented in the vegetation that blankets their lush peaks and folds. At the base of the cliffs there are caves, secluded beaches, and waterfalls to explore.

Let’s put this in perspective: even if you had only one day on Kauai, we’d still recommend heading to Napali Coast on Kauai’s northwest side. Once you’re there, you’ll understand why no road traverses this series of folding-fan cliffs. That leaves three ways to experience the coastline—by air, by water, or on foot. We recommend all three, in that order—each one gets progressively more sensory.

A helicopter tour is your best bet if you’re strapped for time; we recommend Jack Harter Helicopters (Fsee Aerial Tours in Activities and Tours for more information). Boat tours are great for family fun and a day on the water; hiking, of course, is the most budget-friendly option, though it’s physically challenging.

Whatever way you choose to visit Napali, you might want to keep this awe-inspiring fact in mind: at one time, thousands of Hawaiians lived self-sufficiently in these valleys.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Napali Coast runs 15 miles from Kee Beach (one of Kauai’s more popular snorkeling spots) on the island’s North Shore to Polihale State Park (the longest stretch of beach in the state) on the West Side of the island. How do you explore this gorgeous stretch of coastline? You can’t drive to it, through it, or around it. You can’t see Napali from a scenic lookout. You can’t even take a mule ride to it. The only way to experience its magic is from the sky, the ocean, or the trail. The Kalalau Trail can be hiked from the “end of the road” at Kee Beach, where the trailhead begins in Haena State Park at the northwest end of Kuhio Highway (this part is Route 560). There’s no need to hike the trail’s entire, challenging 11 miles (one-way) to get a full experience. Doing that requires a camping permit, which you can apply for up to 90 days in advance of your planned trip (see wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp).

An option for seeing Napali Coast on foot is to hike the first 2 miles into Hanakapiai Beach and then another 2 miles up that valley; that is allowed without a permit. The beach is accessed from a trailhead in the parking lot at Kee Beach; check wgohaena.com before you travel for information about reservations and shuttle service. The beach is a small jewel, but swimming and other water activities are not recommended because there are no lifeguards; the shore break is often dangerous. It’s more for sunning and relaxing.

FFor information on permitted Napali Coast tour operators, see Aerial Tours and Boat Tours in Activities and Tours. Also see the Hiking section of Activities and Tours for information on the Kalalau Trail.

; Beaches

HKalalau Beach

BEACH | Located at the end of the trail with the same name, Kalalau is a remote beach in the spectacular Napali Coast State Wilderness Park. Reaching it requires an arduous 11-mile hike along sea-cliff faces (permit required), through steaming tropical valleys, and across sometimes-raging streams. The trail has zero-to-limited cell phone service and is recommended for experienced hikers only. Another option is to paddle a kayak to the beach—summer only, though, or else the surf is way too big. All boat and kayak tours must be through a permitted guided company. The beach is anchored by a heiau on one end and a waterfall on the other.

The safest time to come is summer, when the trail is dry and the beach is wide, cupped by low vegetated sand dunes and a large walk-in cave on the western edge. Day hikes into the valley offer waterfalls, freshwater swimming pools, and wild tropical fruits. Though state camping permits are required, the valley often has a significant illegal crowd, which has strained park facilities and degraded much of its former peaceful solitude. Helicopter overflights are near-constant in good weather. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; sunset; walking. ENapali Coast State Wilderness Park jTrailhead starts at end of Rte. 560, 7 miles west of Hanalei wwww.hawaiistateparks.org.

The East Side

The East Side encompasses Kapaa, Wailua, and Lihue. It’s also known as the Royal Coconut Coast for the coconut plantation where today’s aptly named Coconut Marketplace is located and the small coconut groves that still sit on each side of Kuhio Highway. It’s a convenient place for the practical traveler, as all the necessities are nearby and the coast is beautiful.

From much of the East Side you can enjoy a clear view of the eternally Sleeping Giant mountain behind you. On the makai (ocean) side of the highway, a short walk takes you to a semi-rocky shoreline.

Kapaa Town was Kauai’s commercial hub during the sugar and pineapple eras. Many descendants still live on the land they inherited from their Hawaiian, Japanese, and Portuguese ancestors who worked the fields as immigrants a hundred years ago. The past few decades have seen Kapaa’s residential areas expand as newcomers lead demand for more housing. The island population has grown steadily in recent years to reach its present-day 73,298. For the visitor, Kapaa is a small town with jewelry and dress boutiques, smaller restaurants, tourist emporiums, food trucks, and shops. It’s a good area to meet local people who work at the smaller establishments.

Kapaa connects with Wailua by means of the ill-defined Waipouli area. Here you’ll find restaurants, bike shops, a chiropractor, a bikini shop, and a general assortment of small businesses. The Wailua area, now marked with the shell of the former Coco Palms Hotel across from Wailua Beach, was the traditional home of Kauai’s famous alii, rulers of the commoners. Much of Kauai’s Hawaiian history can be traced to the Wailua River area. More recently, Sinatra and Presley graced the coast while filming movies and enjoying the laid-back scene of old Kauai.

Lihue is the county seat, and the whole East Side is the island’s center of commerce, so early-morning and late-afternoon drive times (or rush hours) can get very congested in what’s known locally as Kapaa Krawl. If you’re driving, take advantage of the Kapaa bypass, which can take you from northern Kapaa Town all the way past Wailua, avoiding most of the traffic.

Kapaa and Wailua

Kapaa is 16 miles southeast of Kilauea; Wailua is 3 miles southwest of Kapaa.

Old Town Kapaa was once a sugar and pineapple plantation town, which is no surprise—most of the larger towns on Kauai once were. It’s where you’ll find the best selection of stores in the area, most of them tucked into a quaint collection of wooden-front shops that date back to the plantation era. Kapaa houses two grocery stories: a large Safeway and a locally owned Big Save. It also offers plenty of dining options, easy access to the ocean, and a walking-biking trail that runs along the coast. If the timing is right, plan to cruise the town on the first Saturday evening of each month, when live music, craft displays, and food trucks add to the festivities. To the south, Wailua comprises a few restaurants, shops, and resorts along the coastline, as well as Lydgate State Park, with its wonderful playground and safe swimming areas.

s Sights

HKe Ala Hele Makalae

TRAIL | Running from the southern end of Lydgate Park north to Donkey Beach, just south of Anahola, this 8-mile seaside path is a favorite of visitors and locals alike. Sea breezes, gorgeous ocean views, smooth pavement, and friendly smiles from everyone as they bike, walk, skate, and run add to the pleasures of the trail. The path has many entry points from public beaches and private resorts, with some bike shops just off the trail. E1121 Moanakai Rd., Kapaa wwww.kauaipath.org/kauaicoastalpath.

Kaiakea Scenic Viewpoint

VIEWPOINT | This ocean overlook is perfect for spotting whales during their winter migration. In fact, during their annual whale count in 2023, volunteers with the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary spotted 64 whales here in one day. It’s easy to hop on the cement bike-and-walking path just below for a coastal stroll or ride. Most days you can see clear to Lihue and beyond, and it’s a great spot to watch the moon rise. ERte. 56, Kapaa jBetween Mile Markers 9 and 10.

Opaekaa Falls

WATERFALL | FAMILY | The mighty Wailua River produces many dramatic waterfalls, and Opaekaa (pronounced “oh-pie- kah-ah”) is one of the best, plunging hundreds of feet to the pool below. It can be easily viewed from a scenic overlook with ample parking. Opaekaa means “rolling shrimp,” which refers to the tasty native crustaceans that were once so abundant they could be seen tumbling in the falls. Do not attempt to hike down to the pool. lJust before reaching the parking area for the waterfall, turn left into a scenic pullout for great views of the Wailua River and its march through the valley to the sea. EKuamoo Rd., Wailua (Kauai County) jFrom Rte. 56, turn mauka (toward the mountains) onto Kuamoo Rd. and drive 1½ miles.

HPoliahu Heiau

RELIGIOUS BUILDING | Storyboards near this ancient heiau (sacred site) recount the significance of the many sacred structures found along the Wailua River. It’s unknown exactly how the ancient Hawaiians used Poliahu Heiau—one of the largest pre-Christian temples on the island—but legend says it was created by the Menehune, the legendary race of little people who were quick builders, because of the unusual stonework found in its walled enclosures. From this site, drive downhill toward the ocean to pohaku hoohanau, a two-piece birthing stone said to confer special blessings on all children born there, and pohaku piko, whose crevices were a repository for umbilical cords left by parents seeking a clue to their child’s destiny, which reportedly was foretold by how the cord fared in the rock. lSome Hawaiians feel these sacred stones shouldn’t be viewed as tourist attractions, so always treat them with respect. Never stand or sit on the rocks or leave any offerings. E5558–5568 Kuamoo Rd., Wailua (Kauai County) AFree.

Sleeping Giant

MOUNTAIN | Although its true name is Nounou, this landmark mountain ridge is more commonly known as the Sleeping Giant because of its resemblance to a very large man sleeping on his back. Legends differ on whether the giant is Puni, who was accidentally killed by rocks launched at invading canoes by the Menehune, or Nunui, a gentle creature who has not yet awakened from the nap he took centuries ago after building a massive temple and enjoying a big feast. The ridge can be experienced up close via one of several trails that traverse the giant’s body from the east and west (Fsee Hiking). ERte. 56, Kapaa jAbout 1 mile north of Wailua River.

HWailua Falls

WATERFALL | FAMILY | Kauai has plenty of noteworthy waterfalls, but this one is especially gorgeous, easy to find, and easy to photograph from the road. You may recognize the impressive cascade from the opening sequences of the Fantasy Island television series. To reach it, drive north from Lihue following Maalo Road in Hanamaulu, then travel uphill for 3 miles. zDo not hike down to the base of the falls to access the water. EMaalo Rd., Lihue jOff Rte. 580.

; Beaches

Baby Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | There aren’t many safe swimming beaches on Kauai’s East Side; however, this one ranks highly with parents because there’s typically a narrow lagoon-like area between the beach and the reef that is perfect for small children. In winter, watch for east and northeast swells that would make this not such a safe option. There are no beach facilities or lifeguards, so watch your babies. A shower spigot along the roadside provides cold water to rinse off the salt. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers. Best for: sunrise; swimming. EMoanakai Rd., Kapaa AFree.

Kealia Beach

BEACH | Adjacent to the highway heading north out of Kapaa, ½-mile-long Kealia Beach attracts bodyboarders and surfers year-round. It’s a favorite with locals and visitors alike. Kealia is not generally a great beach for swimming, but it’s a nice place to sunbathe and enjoy the beach scene. The safest area to swim is at the far north end of the beach, near the lava jetty. The waters are often rough and the waves crumbly, due to an onshore break (no protecting reef) and northeasterly trade winds. A scenic lookout on the southern end, accessed off the highway, is a superb location for saluting the morning sunrise or spotting whales during winter. A level paved section of the Ke Ala Hele Makalae bike path, with small covered pavilions, runs along the coastline here and is popular for walking and biking. Amenities: lifeguard; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunrise; surfing; swimming; walking. ERte. 56, Kealia jAt Mile Marker 10 AFree.

Lydgate State Park

BEACH | FAMILY | This is by far the best family beach park on Kauai: the waters off the beach are protected by a hand-built breakwater, creating two boulder-enclosed saltwater ponds for safe swimming and snorkeling most of the year. Heavy rains upriver do occasionally deposit driftwood and clog the ponds, and strong trade winds can cause waves to wash over. The smaller of the two ponds is perfect for keiki. Behind the beach is Kamalani Playground; children of all ages—that includes you—enjoy the swings, lava-tube slides, tree house, and open field. Picnic tables abound in the park, and pavilions for day use and overnight camping are available by permit. The Kamalani Kai Bridge is a second playground, south of the original. (The two are united by the Ke Ala Hele Makalae bike and pedestrian coastal path.) lThis park system is perennially popular; the quietest times to visit are early mornings and weekdays. Amenities: lifeguards; pavilions; camping; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: partiers; sunrise; swimming; walking. ELeho Dr., Wailua (Kauai County) jJust south of Wailua River AFree.

Wailua Beach

BEACH | Located at the mouth of Hawaii’s only navigable river, Wailua Beach has considerable cultural significance. Petroglyphs carved on boulders are sometimes visible near the river mouth during low-tide conditions. Surfers and stand-up paddlers enjoy this beach, and many families spend weekend days in the cool shade under Wailua Bridge, even hauling out their portable grills and tables to go with their beach chairs. The great news about Wailua Beach is that it’s almost impossible to miss; however, parking can be a challenge. The best parking for the north end of the beach is on Papaloa Road behind the Shell station. For the southern end of the beach, you can park at Wailua River State Park and cross the highway at the traffic light. Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: surfing; swimming; walking; windsurfing. EKuhio Hwy., Wailua (Kauai County) AFree.

r Restaurants

The Bull Shed Restaurant

$$$ | STEAK HOUSE | The A-frame structure makes this popular restaurant look distinctly rustic from the outside, but inside, light colors and a full wall of glass highlight an ocean view that is one of the best on Kauai. The food is simple and the menu rarely changes, but they know how to do surf and turf well, including prime rib and Australian rack of lamb. Known for: views of surf crashing on the rocks; combo dinner platters; quiet bar. DAverage main: $37 E4–796 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/822–3791 wwww.bullshedrestaurant.com CNo lunch.

HHukilau Lanai

$$$ | AMERICAN | Relying heavily on super-fresh island fish and local meats and produce, this restaurant offers creatively prepared food that is a great choice for value and consistent quality in a relaxed refined setting. The nightly fish specials—served grilled, steamed, or sautéed with succulent sauces—shine here. Known for: ahi poke nachos; gluten-free options; coconut cheesecake. DAverage main: $32 EKauai Coast Resort, Coconut Marketplace, 520 Aleka Loop, Wailua (Kauai County) P808/822–0600 wwww.hukilaukauai.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

HJO2 Natural Cuisine

$$$$ | FUSION | Tucked away in a nondescript strip mall, this chic yet casual eatery has an imaginative menu shaped by French, Japanese, and Island influences that changes daily to showcase the best of fresh local ingredients. Fresh fish features prominently—try the seared ono resting on a bed of shrimp risotto or tempura lobster tail in a rich broth dense with ramen noodles. Known for: $45 prix fixe 5–6 pm; fresh local ingredients; excellent service. DAverage main: $41 E4–971 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/212–1627 wjotwo.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

Kenji Burger

$ | FUSION | The humble hamburger gets an Asian twist at Kenji’s, a small casual eatery with four outposts throughout the island that uses primarily grass-fed Kauai beef. Choose the teriyaki, veggie, truffle, or hapa burger, each topped with goodies like caramelized onions, Japanese mushrooms, and tomato jam; local favorites include loco moco (a popular local rice, beef, gravy, and eggs concoction), poke, and chicken katsu (fried cutlet) bowls. Known for: sushi burritos filled with seafood; lychee soda; French fries with Japanese seasoning. DAverage main: $18 E4–788 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/320–3558 wwww.kenjiburger.com CClosed Tues.

Kountry Kitchen

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | If you like a super hearty breakfast, try this family-friendly restaurant, a Kapaa mainstay since 1975. With its familiar food, cozy atmosphere, and friendly service, it’s a great spot for omelets, banana pancakes, waffles, and eggs Benedict in two sizes. Known for: all-day breakfast; take-out options; hearty portions. DAverage main: $17 E4–1485 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/822–3511 wwww.kountrystylekitchen.com CClosed Tues. and Wed. No dinner.

Lemongrass Grill

$$ | ASIAN FUSION | Known for its Asian-influenced surf and turf menu, there’s something for everyone here: salads, poultry, steaks and ribs, vegetarian fare, curries, and, of course, a wide selection of seafood, all with an Island flair. The decor may remind you of a Pacific Rim–theme rustic tavern, with its stained-wood interior and numerous paintings and carvings. Known for: curries and satays; lively bar; fresh fish. DAverage main: $25 E4–871 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/822–2288 wlemongrass-grill-seafood-bar.business.site CClosed Thurs. No lunch.

HRestaurant Kintaro

$$ | JAPANESE | If you want to eat at a lively restaurant that’s a favorite with locals, visit Kintaro, but be prepared to wait—or better yet, make reservations—because the dining room and sushi bar are always busy. Try the softshell crab roll or the unbeatable Bali Hai Bomb, a roll of crab and smoked salmon, baked and topped with wasabi mayonnaise. Known for: local favorite; lively bar; friendly service. DAverage main: $26 E4–370 Kuhio Hwy., Wailua (Kauai County) P808/822–3341 wwww.instagram.com/kintarokauai CClosed Sun. No lunch.

Russell’s by Eat Healthy Kauai

$$ | VEGETARIAN | A restored plantation cottage surrounded by tropical foliage is the casual setting for this island café, whose name and plant-based menu reflect the owner’s love for his late dog. Choose from tofu scrambles, salads, chickpea-curry wraps, tempeh sandwiches, banana pancakes, hummus wraps, and Beyond Beef burgers. Known for: alfresco dining in leafy garden; evening music; locally grown vegetables. DAverage main: $23 E4–369 Kuhio Hwy., Wailua (Kauai County) P808/822–7990 weathealthykauai.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No dinner Tues. and Wed.

Tiki Tacos

$ | MEXICAN | Not surprisingly, tacos take center stage here (though there are tamales and salad bowls). The tacos are made from quality ingredients, many of which are organic and locally sourced, and you can mix and match; the fish tacos, as well as those filled with kalua pig, surf and turf, or fire-roasted vegetables, are popular choices. Known for: large portions; house-made corn tortillas; vegan options. DAverage main: $9 E4–971 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/823–8226.

h Hotels

Aston Islander on the Beach

$$$ | HOTEL | A low-rise, Hawaii-plantation-style design gives this 6-acre beachfront property a pleasant relaxed feeling; the guest rooms are spread over eight three-story buildings, each with a lanai that looks out on lovely green lawns. Pros: convenient location near shops and restaurants; coin-operated laundries; online rate deals. Cons: smallish pool; no restaurant on the property; no resort amenities but still charges fee. DRooms from: $339 E440 Aleka Pl., Wailua (Kauai County) P808/822–7417 direct, 866/774–2924 wwww.aquaaston.com a200 rooms XNo Meals.

Hotel Coral Reef Resort

$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | In business since 1956, this small three-story hotel is something of a Kauai beachfront landmark, with clean comfortable rooms, some with great ocean views, and a large pool that overlooks the water—expect great sunrises. Pros: free parking; oceanfront setting; convenient location near restaurants and shops. Cons: located in a busy section of Kapaa; ocean swimming is marginal; traffic noise. DRooms from: $191 E4–1516 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/822–4481, 800/843–4659 wwww.hotelcoralreefresort.com a27 rooms XNo Meals.

Kapaa Sands

$ | APARTMENT | An old rock etched with kanji (Japanese characters) reminds you that the site of this condominium gem was once occupied by a Shinto temple. Pros: discounts for extended stays; walking distance to shops, restaurants, and beach; turtle and monk seal sightings common. Cons: no-frills lodging; small bathrooms; traffic noise in rear units. DRooms from: $166 E380 Papaloa Rd., Wailua (Kauai County) P808/822–4901, 800/222–4901 wkapaasands.com a24 units XNo Meals.

HKauai Coast Resort at the Beachboy

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Fronting an uncrowded stretch of beach, this three-story, primarily time-share condo resort is convenient and a bit more upscale than nearby properties. Pros: central location; nice sunrises; attractive pool. Cons: beach is narrow; ocean not ideal for swimming; daily housekeeping fee. DRooms from: $428 E520 Aleka Loop, Wailua (Kauai County) P808/822–3441, 866/729–7182 wwww.shellhospitality.com a108 units XNo Meals.

Kauai Shores Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | Once an oceanfront inn and now an affordable boutique hotel, this property remains no-frills lodging, but rooms—some recently updated—have a refrigerator and are comfortable, bright, and clean. Pros: near walking path, shops, and dining; free Wi-Fi; great sunrises. Cons: coral reef makes ocean swimming marginal; minimal amenities; daily hospitality fee. DRooms from: $279 E420 Papaloa Rd., Wailua (Kauai County) P808/822–4951, 800/560–5553, wwww.kauaishoreshotel.com a202 rooms XNo Meals.

Lae Nani Resort Kauai by OUTRIGGER

$$$ | APARTMENT | Ruling Hawaiian chiefs once returned from ocean voyages to this spot, now host to comfortable condominiums, and OUTRIGGER has created attractive plant, water, and rock features. Pros: nice nearby beach; walking distance to playground; attractively furnished (though units differ due to individual ownership). Cons: third floor is walk-up; no Wi-Fi; cleaning fee. DRooms from: $349 E410 Papaloa Rd., Wailua (Kauai County) P808/823–1401, 800/688–7444 wwww.outrigger.com/resorts-hotels a84 units XNo Meals.

Sheraton Kauai Coconut Beach Resort

$$$ | RESORT | One of the few true oceanfront properties on Kauai, this popular hotel sits on a ribbon of sand in Kapaa and has bright spacious rooms that face the ocean, garden, coconut grove, or pool. Pros: access to coastal path; near shops and restaurants; pleasant grounds. Cons: coastline not conducive to swimming; small pool; high daily parking fee. DRooms from: $362 E650 Aleka Loop, Wailua (Kauai County) P808/822–3455, 800/760–8555 wwww.marriott.com a311 rooms XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

HWally’s Lobby Bar at Hukilau Lanai

BARS | Trade winds waft through Wally’s Lobby Bar, a modest little open-air bar situated in Hukilau Lanai that looks out onto a coconut grove. Sit at the cozy bar or recline in big comfortable chairs while listening to Hawaiian slack-key guitar. Live music plays from Wednesday through Saturday evenings. Poolside happy hour runs from 3 to 5 pm. Try one of the freshly infused tropical martinis or Kauai-made mead, or choose from a good selection of wines and sake by the glass. E520 Aleka Loop, Wailua (Kauai County) P808/822–0600 wwww.hukilaukauai.com.

p Performing Arts

HSmith Family Garden Luau

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | A 30-acre tropical garden on the Wailua River provides the lovely setting for this popular luau, which begins with the traditional blowing of the conch shell and imu (pig roast) ceremony, followed by cocktails, an island feast, great music, hula, and an international show in the amphitheater overlooking a torchlit lagoon. Presented Monday, Wednesday, and Friday in winter, and also Tuesday and Thursday in summer, it’s fairly authentic and the oldest commercial luau on Kauai. Advance reservations strongly recommended. ESmith’s Tropical Paradise, 3–5971 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/821–6895 wwww.smithskauai.com A$140; $35 for kids ages 7–13; $25 for kids ages 3–6.

b Shopping

Deja Vu Surf Hawaii: Kapaa

CLOTHING | This family operation has a great assortment of branded surf wear and clothes for outdoors fanatics, including tank tops, caps, swimwear, footwear, and Kauai-style T-shirts. They also carry sunglasses, bodyboards, and water-sports accessories, as well as Hawaii-style gifts. E4–1419 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/320–7108 wdejavusurf.com.

Kauai Village Shopping Center

SHOPPING CENTER | The buildings of this Kapaa shopping village are in the style of a 19th-century plantation town. ABC Discount Store sells sundries; Safeway carries groceries and alcoholic beverages; Papaya’s has health foods. Also here are a T-Mobile phone store, Ross Dress for Less, a UPS store, a Chinese restaurant, and Starbucks. E4–831 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/541–5187.

Kela’s Glass Gallery

ART GALLERY | The colorful glass vases, bowls, jewelry, gifts, and other unique items sold in this distinctive gallery are definitely worth viewing if you appreciate quality handmade glass art. It’s expensive, but if something catches your eye, they’ll happily pack it for safe transport home. The gallery also ships worldwide. E4–1400 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/822–4527 wwww.glass-art.com.

Kinipopo Shopping Village

SHOPPING CENTER | At this tiny center on Kuhio Highway, Korean BBQ Restaurant fronts the highway, as does Goldsmiths Kauai, a gallery selling handcrafted Hawaiian-style gold jewelry. A bakery, a surf shop, and a real estate company round out the businesses here. E4–356 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/245–7238 wwww.kinipopovillage.com.

Vicky’s Fabrics

FABRICS | Tropical and Hawaiian prints, silks, slinky rayons, soft cottons, quilting kits, and other fine fabrics fill this small store. A variety of sewing patterns and notions are featured as well, making it a must-stop for any sewing enthusiast and a great place to buy unique island-made gifts. Check out the one-of-a-kind selection of purses, aloha wear, and other quality hand-sewn items. E4–1326 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/822–1746 wwww.vickysfabrics.com.

Lihue

7 miles southwest of Wailua.

The commercial and political center of Kauai County, which includes the islands of Kauai and Niihau, Lihue is home to the island’s major airport, harbor, and hospital. This is where you can find the state and county offices that issue camping and hiking permits, as well as the same fast-food eateries and big-box stores that blight the mainland. The county has revived the downtown by sprucing up Rice Street, but after stocking up on groceries and other supplies, there’s little reason to linger in lackluster Lihue.

s Sights

HAlekoko (Menehune) Fishpond

HISTORIC SIGHT | No one knows just who built this large, intricate, almost 1,000-year-old aquaculture structure in the Huleia River, but legend attributes it to the Menehune, a mythical—or real, depending on who you ask—ancient race of people known for their small stature, industrious nature, and superb stone-working skills. Volcanic rock was cut and skillfully fit together into massive walls 4 feet thick and 5 feet high, forming a centuries-old enclosure for raising mullet and other freshwater fish. Volunteers removed invasive mangroves and restored the pond to its original condition. You can view it from an overlook about 4 miles from downtown Lihue. EEnd of Hulemalu Rd., Niumalu.

HKauai Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | Maintaining a stately presence on Rice Street, the historical museum building is easy to find and features a permanent display, “The Story of Kauai,” that provides a competent overview of the Garden Island and Niihau. Local artists are represented in changing exhibits in the second-floor Mezzanine Gallery. Weekly cultural classes on hula, lei making, and other topics are offered. lThe gift shop alone is worth a visit, with a fine collection of authentic Niihau shell lei, hand-turned wooden bowls, reference books, and other quality arts, crafts, and gifts—many of them locally made. E4428 Rice St., Lihue P808/245–6931 wwww.kauaimuseum.org A$15 CClosed Sun.

Kilohana Plantation

FARM/RANCH | FAMILY | This estate—once a much larger plantation and now a farm and visitor attraction—dates back to 1850, shortly after the Great Mahele, the division of land by the Hawaiian people. Plantation manager Albert Spencer Wilcox developed it as a working cattle ranch, and it was also a sugar plantation. His nephew, Gaylord Parke Wilcox, took over in 1936, building Kauai’s first mansion. Today the 16,000-square-foot Tudor-style home houses specialty shops, art galleries, the Koloa Rum Company, Luau Kalamaku, and Gaylord’s, a pretty restaurant with courtyard seating. Nearly half the original furnishings remain, and the gardens and orchards were replanted according to the original plans. You can tour the grounds for free or take a 40-minute train ride, which includes a chance to feed farm animals while learning the agricultural story of Kauai and viewing a working farm. A more expensive train tour includes lunch and fruit-picking in the orchard. E3–2087 Kaumualii Hwy., Lihue P808/245–5608 wwww.kilohanakauai.com AFree entry to grounds; $21.50 for train tours, $16 for kids ages 3–12.

; Beaches

Kalapaki Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Five minutes south of the airport in Lihue, you’ll find this wide beach and sandy-bottom bay fronting Marriott’s Kauai Beach Club. It’s almost always safe from rip currents and undertows because it’s around the back side of a peninsula, in its own cove. Tons of activities take place here, including all the usual water sports—beginning and intermediate surfing, bodyboarding, bodysurfing, and swimming. In addition, two outrigger canoe clubs paddle in the bay, and the Nawiliwili Yacht Club’s boats sail around the harbor. Kalapaki is the only place on Kauai where double-hulled canoes are available for rent (at Kauai Beach Boys, which fronts the beach next to Duke’s Kauai restaurant). Visitors can also rent snorkel gear, surfboards, bodyboards, and kayaks from Kauai Beach Boys, as well as sign up for surf lessons and sunset boat tours. A volleyball court on the beach is often used by a loosely organized group of local players; visitors are always welcome. lAvoid the stream on the south side of the beach; it often has high bacteria counts. Duke’s Kauai is one of only a couple of restaurants on the island actually on a beach. The restaurant’s lower level is casual—even welcoming beach attire and sandy feet—making it perfect for lunch or an afternoon cocktail. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (limited, no fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: surfing; swimming; walking. ELihue jOff Rice St. wkauaibeachboys.com AFree.

r Restaurants

Duke’s Kauai

$$$ | SEAFOOD | Surfing legend Duke Kahanamoku (1890–1968) is immortalized at this casual bi-level restaurant and bar on Kalapaki Beach, where surfboards, photos, and other memorabilia marking Duke’s long tenure as a waterman adorn the walls. Downstairs, you’ll find simple, less-expensive fare, from sashimi and nachos to coconut shrimp to hamburgers, served 11 am to 9 pm; upstairs, at dinner, fresh fish prepared in a variety of styles is the best choice, though the pricey-but-hearty prime rib is a favorite among locals. Known for: downstairs level good for lunch at the beach; lively bar; surf memorabilia. DAverage main: $38 EThe Royal Sonesta Kauai Resort Lihue, 3610 Rice St., Lihue P808/246–9599 wwww.dukeskauai.com.

Hamura Saimin

$ | ASIAN | Folks just love this cash-only, old plantation-style diner, though the very simple food doesn’t quite live up to the buzz. Locals and tourists still stream in and out all day long: the famous saimin noodle soup is the big draw, and each day the Hiraoka family dishes up about 1,000 bowls of the steaming broth and house-made noodles topped with a variety of garnishes. Known for: counter-style dining; grilled chicken and beef sticks; open late for Lihue. DAverage main: $10 E2956 Kress St., Lihue P808/245–3271 cNo credit cards.

Kalapaki Joe’s

$$ | AMERICAN | Both locations—in Lihue’s Kukui Grove and in Poipu—appeal to sports fans who like a rip-roaring happy hour. The appetizer menu is extensive, and you can also choose from burgers, salads, sandwiches, tacos, fresh fish, and local favorites like kalua pork and cabbage. Known for: plenty of TVs; boisterous bar; affordable casual dining. DAverage main: $20 E3–2600 Kaumualii Hwy., Lihue P808/245–6366 wkalapakijoes.com.

Kukui’s on Kalapaki Beach

$$$ | ECLECTIC | The meals at Kukui’s feature Hawaiian, Asian, and contemporary American influences, and the open-air setting with a view of the ocean makes it a pleasant place to dine. It’s spacious, making it well suited to families and those who want a relaxed setting. Known for: garden setting; quiet atmosphere; evening entertainment. DAverage main: $32 EThe Royal Sonesta Kauai Resort Lihue, 3610 Rice St., Lihue P808/245–5050 wwww.sonesta.com.

The Plantation House by Gaylords

$$$ | ECLECTIC | Located in what was once Kauai’s most expensive plantation estate, Gaylords pays tribute to the elegant dining rooms of 1930s high society: candlelit tables sit on a cobblestone courtyard that surrounds a fountain and overlooks a wide lawn. The menu is eclectic, offering Portuguese fish stew, shrimp pasta, scallops, steak, sake short ribs, chicken, and a few vegan and vegetarian options. Known for: unique courtyard setting; quiet dining; delightful outdoor seating. DAverage main: $39 EKilohana Plantation, 3–2087 Kaumualii Hwy., Lihue P808/245–9593 wwww.kilohanakauai.com.

South East Asia Kauai

$ | ASIAN | This Asian restaurant, known as SEA Kauai, is a welcome and affordable addition to the Lihue dining scene, offering super fresh sushi as well as Thai cuisine. Try the popular sushi boats or the sweet-spicy pineapple curry. Known for: quality ingredients; friendly service; sushi boat. DAverage main: $19 E3501 Rice St., Suite 2012, Lihue P808/359–7986 wsearestaurant.business.site.

h Hotels

Kauai Palms Hotel

$ | HOTEL | Not only is this low-cost alternative close to the airport, but it’s also a great base for day trips to all sides of the island. Pros: friendly staff; decent value for the money; centrally located. Cons: bare-bones amenities; smallish rooms (ask about studios and cottages); traffic noise. DRooms from: $175 E2931 Kalena St., Lihue P808/246–0908 wkauaipalmshotel.com a36 rooms XNo Meals.

OUTRIGGER Kauai Beach Resort & Spa

$$$ | RESORT | This plantation-style hotel provides a relaxing, upscale oceanfront experience close to the airport, but without the noise. Pros: four pools with fun features; lawn games; resort amenities. Cons: high parking fee; beach not good for swimming; no nearby restaurants or resorts. DRooms from: $337 E4331 Kauai Beach Dr., Hanamaulu P866/471–0060 for reservations, 888/805–3843 for front desk wwww.outrigger.com/hawaii/kauai a350 rooms XNo Meals.

The Royal Sonesta Kauai Resort Lihue

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | A $50 million refurbishment of guest rooms and common areas has refreshed this resort, whose sprawling property fronts the sandy shore of Kalapaki Bay and offers a lovely view of dramatic Haupu Ridge. Pros: oceanfront setting; plenty of resort amenities; free airport shuttle. Cons: airport noise; ocean water quality can be poor at times; located near an industrial area. DRooms from: $509 E3610 Rice St., Lihue P808/245–5050 wwww.sonesta.com a367 rooms XNo Meals.

Timbers Kauai Ocean Club & Residences

$$$$ | HOUSE | With an enviable spot along the Lihue coastline, 450 acres of landscaped grounds, and a choice of elegant homes and townhomes, Timbers Kauai caters to those who are seeking a self-contained resort experience with an air of exclusivity. Pros: ocean and mountain views; private and quiet; luxurious amenities in lodgings and at resort. Cons: extremely expensive; somewhat isolated; three-night minimum stay. DRooms from: $1,800 E3770 Alaoli Way, Lihue P808/647–2879 for front desk, 844/440–7572 for reservations wwww.timberskauai.com a47 residences XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

Duke’s Barefoot Bar

BARS | One of the liveliest bars on Kauai is this beachside bar and restaurant at Kalapaki Beach. Contemporary Hawaiian music is performed daily 3:30–5:30 pm and 6–8 pm, and from 9:30 to 11:30 am during Sunday brunch. EThe Royal Sonesta Kauai Resort Lihue, 3610 Rice St., Lihue P808/246–9599 wwww.dukeskauai.com.

Rob’s Good Times Grill

BARS | Let loose at this popular restaurant and sports bar, which has live music Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday nights. Thursday is trivia night, and sports are broadcast all weekend and Monday nights. It offers local microbrews and a full menu of appetizers, sandwiches, burgers, and other pub fare. E4303 Rice St., Lihue P808/246–0311 wkauaisportsbarandgrill.com.

p Performing Arts

Luau Kalamaku

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | Set on the grounds of a historic plantation-era mansion, this luau bills itself as the only “theatrical” luau on Kauai, with both Hawaiian and Polynesian dancing. The luau feast is served buffet style, there’s an open bar, and the performers aim to both entertain and educate about Hawaiian culture. Guests sit at tables around a circular stage; tables farther from the stage are elevated, providing unobstructed views. Additional packages offer visitors the opportunity to watch the show only, take a train ride, eat a special four-course meal, and enjoy romantic perks like a lei greeting and champagne. The luau is staged Tuesday and Friday nights only; reservations are highly recommended. EKilohana Plantation, 3–2087 Kaumualii St., Lihue P877/622–1780 wwww.luaukalamaku.com AFrom $159.

b Shopping

Hilo Hattie

CLOTHING | This is the big name in aloha wear for tourists throughout the Islands, and Hilo Hattie has only one store on Kauai, located a mile from Lihue Airport. Come here for cool comfortable muumuu and aloha shirts for men, women, and children in bright floral prints, as well as other souvenirs. Also, be sure to check out the line of Hawaii-inspired home furnishings. E3–3252 Kuhio Hwy., Lihue P808/245–3404 wwww.hilohattie.com.

Kauai: Undercover Movie Star p

Though Kauai has played itself in the movies—starring in The Descendants (2011), for example—much of its screen time has been as a stunt double for a number of tropical paradises. The island’s remote valleys portrayed the Venezuelan jungle in Kevin Costner’s Dragonfly (2002) and a Costa Rican dinosaur preserve in Steven Spielberg’s Jurassic Park (1993). Spielberg was no stranger to Kauai, having filmed Harrison Ford’s escape via seaplane from Menehune Fishpond in Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981). Recently, the island stood in for parts of South America in Disney’s Jungle Cruise (2021).

The fluted cliffs and gorges of Kauai’s rugged Napali Coast play the misunderstood beast’s island home in King Kong (1976), and a jungle dweller of another sort also frolicked on Kauai in George of the Jungle (1997). Harrison Ford returned to the island for 10 weeks during the filming of Six Days, Seven Nights (1998), a romantic adventure set in French Polynesia. Part-time Kauai resident Ben Stiller used the island as a stand-in for the jungles of Vietnam in Tropic Thunder (2008), and Johnny Depp came here to film some of Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides (2011). But these are all relatively contemporary movies. What’s truly remarkable is that Hollywood discovered Kauai in 1933 with the making of White Heat, which was set on a sugar plantation and—like South Pacific (also filmed on Kauai)—dealt with an interracial love story.

Then it was off to the races, as Kauai saw no fewer than a dozen movies filmed on the island in the 1950s, though not all of them were Oscar contenders. Among them were She Gods of Shark Reef (1956) and Miss Sadie Thompson (1953), which starred Rita Hayworth.

The movie that is still immortalized on the island in the names of restaurants, real estate offices, a hotel, and even a sushi item is South Pacific (1957). (You guessed it, right?) That mythical place called “Bali Hai” is never far away on Kauai.

In the 1960s, Elvis Presley filmed Blue Hawaii (1961) and Girls! Girls! Girls! (1962) on the island. All in all, Kauai has welcomed plenty of Hollywood’s A-list: John Wayne in Donovan’s Reef (1963); Jack Lemmon in The Wackiest Ship in the Army (1960); Richard Chamberlain in The Thorn Birds (1983); Gene Hackman in Uncommon Valor (1983); Danny DeVito and Billy Crystal in Throw Momma from the Train (1987); and Dustin Hoffman, Morgan Freeman, Rene Russo, and Cuba Gooding Jr. in Outbreak (1995).

Kauai has also appeared on a long list of TV shows and made-for-TV movies, including Gilligan’s Island, Fantasy Island, Starsky & Hutch, Baywatch Hawaii—even reality TV shows The Bachelor and The Amazing Race 3.

For the record, just because a movie did some filming here doesn’t mean the entire movie was filmed on Kauai. Honeymoon in Vegas (1992) filmed just one scene here; the murder mystery A Perfect Getaway (2009) was set on the famous Kalalau Trail and featured beautiful Kauai backdrops, but was shot mostly in Puerto Rico.

HKapaia Stitchery

SOUVENIRS | Hawaiian quilts made by hand and machine, a beautiful selection of fabrics, quilting kits, handmade aloha wear, and unique fabric arts fill a cute, small, red plantation-style building a mile outside Lihue. The staff is friendly and helpful—even though a steady stream of customers keeps them busy—and will ship your purchases anywhere. E3–3551 Kuhio Hwy., Lihue P808/245–2281 wkapaiastitchery.com.

HKauai Community Market

MARKET | FAMILY | This is the biggest and best farmers’ market on Kauai, sponsored by the Kauai Farm Bureau, Kauai Grown, and Kauai Community College and held 9:30 am to 1 pm on Saturdays in the college’s parking lot in Lihue. You’ll find fresh produce—including those grown by the college’s agriculture students—and flowers, as well as packaged products like breads, goat cheese, pasta, honey, coffee, soaps, lotions, and more, all made locally. The market also offers educational displays and cooking tips. Seating areas are convenient if you want to grab a tasty snack or lunch from the food booths and lunch wagons that set up here. E3–1901 Kaumualii Hwy., Lihue P808/652–3217 wwww.kauaigrown.org/kauai-community-farmers-market.

Kauai Fruit & Flower Company (The Pineapple Store)

FOOD | At this shop near Lihue, five minutes away from the airport, you can buy tropical fruit smoothies, sugarcane, ginger, Kauai Coffee, coconuts, and an assortment of fresh fruits from Kauai, as well as boxes of tropical flowers that can be shipped elsewhere. lNote that some of the fruit sold here cannot be shipped out of state. E3–4684 Kuhio Hwy., Lihue P808/320–8870 wwww.kauaifruit.com.

Roadside Vendors b

Lei. Tropical flowers. Fresh fish. Rambutan. Avocados. Grilled huli huli chicken. Kalua pork. Tamales. Coconuts. It’s not uncommon to run across individuals selling flowers, produce, and food on the side of the road. Some are local farmers trying to make a living; others are people fundraising for the local canoe club. Don’t be afraid to stop and buy. The prices are usually good, and most vendors are friendly and enjoy chatting.

HKauai Museum Gift Shop

CRAFTS | The gift shop at the Kauai Museum sells some fascinating books, as well as lovely authentic Niihau shell jewelry, handwoven lauhala hats and bags, local food items, historic postcards, hand-carved wooden bowls and boxes, Tahitian pearl jewelry, and a wide selection of unique aloha wear clothing. It’s a wonderful place to find quality items not sold elsewhere. EKauai Museum, 4428 Rice St., Lihue P808/245–6931 wwww.kauaimuseum.org/gift-shop.

Kukui Grove Center

SHOPPING CENTER | This is Kauai’s only true mall. Anchor tenants are Target, Longs Drugs, Macy’s, Ross, and Times Supermarket. The mall’s stores offer women’s clothing, sunglasses, surf wear, art, toys, athletic shoes, jewelry, a hair salon, and locally made crafts. Restaurants range from fast food and sandwiches to sushi and Korean, with a popular Starbucks and Jamba Juice. The center stage has Hawaiian music on Friday nights and a farmers’ market on Monday afternoons. E3–2600 Kaumualii Hwy., Lihue P808/245–7784 wwww.kukuigrovecenter.com.

The Shops at Kilohana

SHOPPING CENTER | With shops and art galleries tucked into the 16,000-square-foot Tudor mansion and restored outbuildings, Kilohana Plantation offers quality clothing, jewelry, candy, handmade pottery, Hawaiian collectibles, and train memorabilia. The grounds are home to Koloa Rum Company, Luau Kalamaku, and a restaurant, while the historic mansion is filled with antiques from the previous owner. Train rides on a restored railroad are available, with knowledgeable guides recounting the history of sugar on Kauai. E3–2087 Kaumualii Hwy., Lihue P808/245–5608 wwww.kilohanakauai.com/shops.

Two Frogs Hugging

HOUSEWARES | On display here are lots of interesting housewares, accessories, knickknacks, and hand-carved collectibles, as well as baskets and furniture from Indonesia, the Philippines, and China. Antiques and reproductions for the home and outdoors are available. The shop occupies expansive quarters in the Lihue Industrial Park. E3094 Aukele St., Lihue P808/246–8777 wtwofrogshugging.com.

The South Shore

As you follow the main road south from Lihue, the landscape becomes lush and densely vegetated before giving way to drier conditions that characterize Poipu, the South Side’s major resort area. Poipu owes its popularity to a steady supply of sunshine and a string of sandy beaches, although the beaches are smaller and more covelike than those on the island’s West Side.

With its extensive selection of accommodations, services, shopping, and activities, the South Shore attracts more visitors than any other area of Kauai. It has also attracted developers with big plans for the onetime sugarcane fields that are nestled in this region and enveloped by mountains. There are few roads in and out, and local residents are concerned about increased traffic as well as construction. If you’re planning to stay on the South Side, ask if your hotel, condo, or vacation rental will be affected by development during your visit.

Both Poipu and nearby Koloa, the latter the site of Kauai’s first sugar mill, can be reached via Route 520 (Maluhia Road) from the Lihue area. Route 520 is also known as Tree Tunnel Road because of the graceful eucalyptus trees planted here on both sides of the road at the turn of the 20th century. The canopy of trees was destroyed two times by hurricanes in the 20th century, but the trees have grown back, their branches arching overhead to create an impressive tunnel and a perfect photo op. It’s a distinctive way to announce, “You are now on vacation,” and there’s a definite feel of leisure in the air here. There’s still plenty to do—snorkel, bike, walk, horseback ride, take an ATV tour, surf, scuba dive, shop, and dine—everything you’d want on a tropical vacation. From the west, Route 530 (Koloa Road) starts in Lawai—a good stop for a coffee, quick bite, or handmade gifts—and then slips into downtown Koloa, a row of fun shops and eateries in historical plantation buildings well worth exploring, at an intersection with the only gas station on the South Shore.

Koloa

11 miles southwest of Lihue.

Hawaii’s lucrative foray into sugar was born in this sleepy town, where the first cane was milled in 1836. You still can see the mill’s old stone smokestack, though little else remains, save for the vintage plantation-style buildings that have kept Koloa from becoming a tacky tourist trap for Poipu-bound visitors. The original small-town character has been preserved by converting historic structures along the main street into boutiques, restaurants, and outlets for edible gifts. Placards describe the original tenants and life in the old mill town. Places to look for include Koloa Fish Market (E3390 Poipu Rd.), Crazy Shirts, and Billabong Surf Shop.

s Sights

HOld Koloa Town

TOWN | Koloa’s first sugar plantation opened in 1835, ushering in an era of sugar production throughout the Islands, with more than 100 plantations established by 1885. Many of the workers came from the Philippines, Japan, China, Korea, and Portugal, creating Hawaii’s multiethnic mélange. Today, many of Koloa’s historic buildings, beneath the shade of stately old monkeypod trees, have been converted into fun shops, galleries, and places to eat. Even the newer developments mimic quaint plantation-camp architecture. You’ll just want to stroll and take it all in. Indulge in a sweet treat like a shave ice, freshly roasted gourmet nuts, or a healthy smoothie after a food-truck lunch taken to nearby Knudsen Park. lBe sure to approach Old Koloa Town via the Tree Tunnel, a romantic canopy of eucalyptus trees planted more than a century ago along a stretch of Maluhia Road. EKoloa Rd., Koloa wwww.oldkoloa.com.

Tree Tunnel

NATURE SIGHT | Off Route 50 as you head from Lihue to the South Shore, Route 520 (Maluhia Road) is known locally as “Tree Tunnel Road,” due to the avenue of tall eucalyptus trees lining both sides. A drive here is a lovely introduction to the area. The trees were planted at the turn of the 20th century by Walter Duncan McBryde, a Scotsman who began cattle ranching on Kauai’s South Shore. The canopy of trees was ripped to literal shreds twice—in 1982 during Hurricane Iwa, and then again in 1992 during Hurricane Iniki. And, true to Kauai’s resilience, both times the trees grew back into an impressive tunnel. ERte. 520, Koloa.

r Restaurants

HLa Spezia

$$ | ITALIAN | Homestyle Italian cuisine including house-made pasta is served in a small lively dining room and bar area at this main-street restaurant. Choose from the cellar list or bring your own bottle, perhaps from the wine shop next door. Known for: spicy meatballs; seasonal and organic ingredients; antipasti selection. DAverage main: $25 E5492 Koloa Rd., Koloa P808/742–8824 wwww.laspeziakauai.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch xNo parties larger than 8.

HThe Tasting Room

$$$ | AMERICAN | Popular for a predinner gathering or a full evening out, this trendy wine bar on Koloa’s main street has great flights and small bites, and has added a few larger entrées that change seasonally. A venture run by the daughters of the owner of the wineshop next door, it offers knowledgeable non-snooty service and an extensive list of wines, beers, and spirits. Known for: French onion soup and charcuterie; friendly neighborhood vibe; panna cotta of the day. DAverage main: $37 E5476 Koloa Rd., Koloa P808/431–4311 wwww.tastingroomkauai.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Koloa Fish Market

$ | SEAFOOD | Having outgrown its tiny shop by the post office, Koloa Fish Market now offers tasty take-out poke, plate lunches, fresh fish, and party platters at a location along the road to Poipu. Known for: long lines at lunchtime; plantation-style storefront; family-owned deli. DAverage main: $16 E3390 Poipu Rd., Koloa P808/742–6199 CClosed Thurs. and Sun. No dinner.

The Kauai Marathon a

The Kauai Marathon (wthekauaimarathon.com) and its larger, concurrent Half Marathon attract runners and walkers from all over the world in early September. The sound of conch shells signals the start, and participants set off from the heart of Poipu, then turn up the Koloa Bypass Road as the sun rises behind the old sugar mill. Even the most competitive will stop for a selfie in the Tree Tunnel before continuing west along the highway (lanes closed for the occasion) and down through Omao, where neighbors cheer from front porches. Full marathoners turn right for a long loop into the tough hills of Lawai and Kalaheo; “halfers” turn left to head back to the waterfront. Hula dancers and Japanese taiko drummers pepper the route. The large free Health & Wellness Expo is open to the public, as are many marathon-related events at nearby shopping centers and sponsor hotels.

b Shopping

HThe Wine Shop

WINE/SPIRITS | As you browse shelves stocked with international wines, gourmet nibbles, local rum, and etched glassware, you may notice romance in the air. The Wine Shop is where couples can obtain a state marriage license, gather charcuterie supplies for a honeymoon beach picnic, or order a gift basket for a milestone anniversary. Want a particular vintage for an upcoming family trip? They will bring in special orders and hold them for your arrival. E5470 Koloa Rd., Koloa jAcross from Koloa Post Office P808/742–7305 wthewineshopkauai.com.

Poipu

2 miles southeast of Koloa.

Thanks to its generally sunny weather and a string of golden-sand beaches dotted with oceanfront lodgings, Poipu is a top choice for many visitors. Beaches are user-friendly, with protected waters for keiki (children) and novice snorkelers, lifeguards, restrooms, covered pavilions, and a sweet coastal promenade ideal for leisurely strolls. Some experts have even ranked Poipu Beach Park number one in the nation. It depends on your preferences, of course, though it certainly does warrant high accolades. Condo rental choices along the South Shore can be overwhelming; a useful resource to get your bearings and compare properties is the buy-and-sell site wwww.poipucondopros.com.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Poipu is the one area on Kauai where you could get by without a car, though that might mean an expensive taxi ride from the airport and limited access to other parts of the island. To reach Poipu by car, follow Poipu Road south from Koloa. After the traffic circle, the roads curve to follow the coast, leading to some of the popular South Shore beaches.

s Sights

HNational Tropical Botanical Garden (NTBG)

GARDEN | FAMILY | Tucked away in Lawai Valley, this collection of gardens includes lands and a cottage once used by Hawaii’s Queen Emma (1836–85) for a summer retreat. Trams depart frequently to transport people from the visitor center to the gardens. The rambling 252-acre McBryde Garden has exhibits and easy trails to help visitors learn about biodiversity and plants collected throughout the tropics, including a Canoe Garden that features plants introduced to Hawaii by early Polynesian voyagers. lThe biodiversity path in McBryde is accessible for people with mobility issues. The 100-acre Allerton Garden, which can be visited only on a guided tour, artfully displays statues and water features originally developed as part of a private estate. A famous scene in Jurassic Park was filmed here.

Reservations and closed-toe shoes are required for all tours. The visitor center has a high-quality gift shop and grab-and-go refreshments. Besides propagating rare and endangered plants from Hawaii and elsewhere, NTBG functions as a scientific research and education center. The organization also operates gardens in Limahuli, on Kauai’s North Shore; in Hana, on Maui’s East Shore; and in Florida. E4425 Lawai Rd., Poipu P808/742–2623 wntbg.org A$30 for McBryde self-guided tour; $65 for Allerton guided tour rReservations required for tours.

Prince Kuhio Park

MONUMENT | A field next to Prince Kuhio Condominiums honors the birthplace of Kauai’s beloved Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole. Known for his kind nature and tireless work on behalf of the Hawaiian people, he lost his chance at the throne when Americans staged an illegal coup against Queen Liliuokalani in 1893 and toppled Hawaii’s constitutional monarchy. He served as a delegate to the U.S. Congress for 19 years after Hawaii became a territory in 1900. An annual commemoration is held around his March birthday, a state holiday. This is a great place to watch wave riders surfing a popular break known as PKs, or to see the sun sink into the Pacific. ELawai Rd., Poipu AFree.

HSpouting Horn

NATURE SIGHT | FAMILY | When conditions are right, a natural blowhole in the rocky shoreline behaves like Old Faithful, shooting salt water high into the air and making a hollow echoing sound. It’s most dramatic during big summer swells, which jam large quantities of water through the ancient lava tube with great force. Most sidewalk vendors hawk inexpensive souvenirs, but a few carry locally set South Sea pearls or rare Niihau-shell creations, with prices ranging from affordable to several thousand dollars. Look for green sea turtles bobbing in the adjacent cove. EPoipu jAt end of Lawai Rd. AFree.

; Beaches

Brennecke’s Beach

BEACH | This beach is synonymous on Kauai with bodysurfing, thanks to its shallow sandbar and reliable shore break. Because the beach is small and often congested, surfboards are prohibited near shore. The water on the rocky eastern edge of the beach is a good place to see endangered green sea turtles noshing on plants growing on the rocks. Monk seals sometimes haul out here; please allow them to rest. Playground equipment is available, and there’s free street parking. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: sunset; surfing. EHoone Rd., Poipu jOff Poipu Rd. AFree.

Keoneloa Beach (Shipwreck Beach)

BEACH | The Hawaiian name for this stretch of beach, Keoneloa, means “long sand,” but many refer to this beach fronting the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa as Shipwreck Beach. Both make sense. It is a long stretch of crescent beach punctuated by stunning sea cliffs on both ends, and, yes, a ship once wrecked here. With its rough onshore break, the waters off “Shippies” are best for bodyboarding and bodysurfing experts; however, the beach itself is plenty big for sunbathing, sandcastle building, Frisbee throwing, and other beach-related fun. The eastern edge of the beach is the start of an interpretive cliff and dune walk (complimentary) held by the hotel staff; check with the concierge for days and times, and keep an eye out for snoozing monk seals below. Parking is limited. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: surfing; walking. EAinako Rd., Poipu jContinue on Poipu Rd. past Grand Hyatt Kauai, turn makai (toward the ocean) on Ainako Rd. AFree.

Seal-Spotting on the South Shore s

When strolling on one of Kauai’s lovely beaches, don’t be surprised if you find yourself in the rare company of a Hawaiian monk seal. These seals are among the most endangered of all marine mammals, with perhaps fewer than 1,400 remaining. They primarily inhabit the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, although more are showing their sweet faces on the main Hawaiian Islands, especially Kauai. They’re fond of hauling out on the beach for a long snooze in the sun, particularly after a night of gorging on fish. They need this time to rest and digest, safe from predators.

Female seals regularly birth their young on the beaches around Kauai, where they stay to nurse their pups for upward of six weeks. It seems the seals enjoy particular beaches for the same reasons we do: the shallow protected waters.

If you’re lucky enough to see a monk seal, keep your distance and let it be. Although they may haul out near people, they still want and need their space. Stay several hundred feet away, and forget photos unless you have a zoom lens. It’s illegal to do anything that causes a monk seal to change its behavior, with penalties that include big fines and even jail time. In the water, seals may appear to want to play. It’s their curious nature. Don’t try to play with them. They are wild animals—mammals, in fact, with sharp teeth.

If you have concerns about the health or safety of a seal, or just want more information, contact the Hawaiian Monk Seal Conservation Hui (P808/651–7668).

Lawai Kai

BEACH | One of the most spectacular beaches on the South Shore is inaccessible by land unless you tour the National Tropical Botanical Garden’s Allerton Garden, which we highly recommend. On the tour, you’ll see the beach, but you won’t step on the sand, in part due to nesting hawksbill and green sea turtles. The only way to legally access the beach on your own is by paddling a kayak 1 mile from Kukuiula Harbor. However, you have to rent the kayaks elsewhere and haul them on top of your car to the harbor. Also, the wind and waves usually run westward, making the in-trip a breeze but the return trip a workout against Mother Nature. lDo not attempt this beach in any manner during a south swell; do not trespass. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; sunset. E4425 Lawai Rd. jOff Poipu Rd. P808/742–2623 for tour information at the NTBG wntbg.org AFrom $65 for NTBG tours.

HMahaulepu Beach and Makauwahi Cave

BEACH | FAMILY | This 2-mile stretch of coast, with its sand dunes, limestone hills, sinkholes, and the Makauwahi Cave, is unlike any other on Kauai. Remains of a large ancient settlement, evidence of great battles, and the discovery of a now-underwater petroglyph field indicate that Hawaiians lived in this area as early as AD 700. Mahaulepu’s coastline is unprotected and rocky, which makes venturing into the ocean hazardous. There are three beach areas with bits of sandy-bottom swimming; however, the best way to experience Mahaulepu is simply to roam, on foot or horseback along the sand or trails. Pack water and sun protection. lAccess to this beach is via private property. Before driving or hiking here, check current gate hours and conditions as the unpaved road can be closed due to weather, grading, or movie filming. Access is during daylight hours only, so be sure to depart before sunset or risk getting locked in for the night. Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: solitude; sunrise; walking. EPoipu Rd., Poipu jPast Grand Hyatt Kauai and CJM Stables wwww.cavereserve.org AFree; donations welcome.

HPoipu Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | At the most popular beach on the South Shore, the snorkeling and swimming are good during calm seas; when the surf’s up, the bodyboarding and surfing are good, too. Frequent sunshine, grassy lawns, play equipment, and easy access add to the appeal, especially with families. The endangered Hawaiian monk seal often makes an appearance, and if you stop by just after sunset, you’re likely to witness record numbers of protected green sea turtles coming ashore to sleep. (Please stay at least 10 feet away and do not photograph with flash.) Take a walk west on a path fronting numerous resorts. Note that at the time of writing, this beach is one of a few on Kauai that may institute a parking fee for nonresidents. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; sunbathing; swimming. EHoone Rd., Poipu jOff Poipu Rd. P808/742–7444 AFree.

Waiohai Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | The first hotel built in Poipu in 1962 overlooked this beach, adjacent to Poipu Beach Park. Actually, there’s little to distinguish where this one ends and the other begins, other than a crescent reef at the eastern end of Waiohai Beach. That crescent, however, is important. It creates a small protected bay—good for snorkeling and beginning surfers. However, when a summer swell kicks up, the near-shore conditions become dangerous; offshore, there’s a splendid surf break for experienced surfers. The beach itself is narrow and, like its neighbor, gets very crowded in summer. Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: snorkeling; sunset; surfing; swimming. EHoone Rd., Poipu jOff Poipu Rd. AFree.

r Restaurants

The Beach House

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | This busy restaurant has a dreamy ocean view, making it one of the best settings on Kauai for a special dinner or a cocktail and appetizer while the sun sinks into the blue Pacific and surfers slice the waves. The prices have gone up, but you can still find satisfaction in the pork pot sticker appetizer or fresh catch served in multiple flavorful ways. Known for: mac-nut-crusted fresh catch; small bar with a big view; indoor-outdoor dining. DAverage main: $50 E5022 Lawai Rd., Poipu P808/742–1424 wwww.the-beach-house.com CNo lunch.

Brennecke’s Beach Broiler

$$$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Casual and fun, with a busy mai tai bar and windows overlooking the beach, Brennecke’s specializes in big portions in a wide range of offerings including rib-eye steak, burgers, fish tacos, pasta, and shrimp. You can create your own combination meal if you can’t pick only one. Known for: good-value happy hour; fresh catch of the day; take-out deli with shave ice. DAverage main: $35 E2100 Hoone Rd., Poipu P808/742–7588 wwww.brenneckes.com.

HEating House 1849

$$$ | ASIAN FUSION | Hawaii’s culinary superstar, Roy Yamaguchi, runs his signature Hawaiian-fusion-cuisine restaurant on Kauai’s South Shore in a shopping village that suits the name and creative fare. Though billed as “plantation cuisine,” the hot-pot rice bowl, spicy ramen, and burger that’s half wild boar are about the only items that might have their roots in the days when sugar was king; otherwise, the menu is classic Asian fusion. Known for: molten chocolate soufflé; use of local ingredients; lively atmosphere. DAverage main: $40 EShops at Kukuiula, 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka Rd., Suite A-201, Poipu P808/742–5000 wwww.royyamaguchi.com/eating-house-koloa CNo lunch.

Keoki’s Paradise

$$$ | ASIAN FUSION | FAMILY | Built to resemble a dockside boathouse, this active semi-outdoor place fills up quickly for dinner thanks to a busy lounge and frequent live music. The day’s fresh catch is available in various styles and sauces, and other favorites include coconut shrimp, seafood risotto, and roasted pork ribs that are cooked in a traditional Hawaiian imu (an underground oven). Known for: weekend brunch and theme nights; children’s menu; Hawaiian atmosphere, with hula. DAverage main: $38 EPoipu Shopping Village, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., Suite 77, Poipu P808/742–7534 wwww.keokisparadise.com CNo lunch weekends. No brunch weekdays.

Living Foods

$$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | A range of light fare is served from brunchtime through evening on the covered lanai attached to Living Foods general store at The Shops at Kukuiula. Locally sourced starters, sandwiches, fish preparations, entrée salads, and desserts can be ordered via the café’s website, which speeds up table service. Known for: all-day menu; grab-and-go bakery; weekend breakfast with cocktails. DAverage main: $20 EThe Shops at Kukuiula, 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka St., Suite D-124, Poipu P808/320–7642 wwww.livingfoodshawaii.com.

Merriman’s

$$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | The Hawaii Regional Cuisine served up at chef Peter Merriman’s namesake restaurant is enhanced by a sophisticated setting, live music, and lovely views from a pretty second-floor dining veranda. Start at the bar, where fine wines are offered by the glass, and then continue to the dinner menu, which states the origins of the fish, shrimp, lamb, beef, chicken, and veggies: 90% is locally grown or caught. Known for: partnerships with local fishers and farmers; sunset views; upscale plantation-home atmosphere. DAverage main: $52 EThe Shops at Kukuiula, 2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka St., Suite G-149, Poipu P808/742–8385 wwww.merrimanshawaii.com.

Red Salt

$$$$ | ECLECTIC | Smart sophisticated decor, attentive and skilled service, and an exceptional menu that highlights Hawaiian seafood make Red Salt a great choice for leisurely fine dining. A daily breakfast is also served, featuring lobster Benedict and lemon-pineapple soufflé pancakes. Known for: dramatic presentation; perfectly grilled meats; sushi and sake. DAverage main: $68 EKoa Kea Resort, 2251 Poipu Rd., Poipu P808/742–4288 wwww.koakea.com/red-salt CNo lunch.

HTidepools

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Of the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort’s restaurants, this is definitely the most tropical, with grass-thatch huts that seem to float on a koi-filled pond beneath starry skies while torches flicker in the lushly landscaped grounds nearby. The equally distinctive food has an Island flavor that comes from the chef’s advocacy of Hawaii Regional Cuisine and extensive use of Island-grown products, including fresh herbs from the resort’s organic garden. Known for: reservations needed weeks in advance; macadamia nut–crusted mahi mahi; excellent service. DAverage main: $55 EGrand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa, 1571 Poipu Rd., Poipu P808/240–6456 wwww.hyatt.com CNo lunch.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Da Crack Mexican Grinds

$ | MEXICAN | FAMILY | Fresh, fast, and affordable, Da Crack is everything you could ask for when refueling between outdoor activities. Fill your burrito, bowl, or taco with locally caught fish, traditional beans, house-made salsa, and local avocado guacamole—or many other choices made from scratch—then head back out to eat and explore more of the island. Known for: children’s menu; vegan friendly; no MSG or trans-fat oils. DAverage main: $13 E2827 Poipu Rd., Poipu jBy Kukuiula Market P808/742–9505 wwww.dacrackkauai.com.

Puka Dog

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | It takes four steps to customize a Hawaiian-style hot dog here, so your crew may want to study the menu in advance. Choose a Polish sausage or veggie dog, top it with a house-made sauce and one of six intriguing tropical fruit relishes, then add mustard (lilikoi—passion fruit—is best). Known for: secret garlic-lemon sauce with four heat levels; Hawaiian sweet-bread bun; Kauai Special with mango relish. DAverage main: $10 EPoipu Beach Park, 2100 Hoone Rd., Poipu jInside Brennecke’s Deli P808/742–6044 wwww.pukadog.com CNo dinner.

h Hotels

HGrand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Dramatically handsome, Kauai’s best megaresort is this classic Hawaiian low-rise built into the cliffs overlooking an unspoiled coastline; it boasts mouthwatering restaurants and has taken great strides to reduce its carbon footprint. Pros: fabulous pool and spa; cultural activities; elegant Hawaiian ambience. Cons: dangerous swimming beach during summer swells; small balconies; the large size may not appeal to all tastes. DRooms from: $735 E1571 Poipu Rd., Poipu P808/742–1234 wwww.grandhyattkauai.com a602 rooms XNo Meals.

Kauai Cove Cottages

$$ | APARTMENT | Located in a residential neighborhood, this vacation rental includes quaint studio units near the mouth of Waikomo Stream, about two blocks from a nice snorkeling cove, and the Pool Cottage in central Poipu. Pros: walk to shops and restaurants; great snorkeling nearby; quiet neighborhood. Cons: not on beach; $150 cleaning fee upon departure; better for couples than families. DRooms from: $239 E2672 Puuholo Rd. and 2250 Kuai Rd., Poipu P808/651–0279 wwww.kauaicove.com a3 units XNo Meals.

Kiahuna Plantation Resort Kauai by OUTRIGGER

$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | This longtime Kauai condo project consists of 42 plantation-style low-rise buildings with individually owned one- and two-bedroom units set on grassy fields leading to a lovely beach. Pros: great sunset and ocean views are bonuses in some units; convenient to restaurants, shops, athletic club; swimmable beach and lawn for picnics and games. Cons: most units don’t have air-conditioning; be prepared for stairs; housekeeping may cost extra. DRooms from: $299 E2253 Poipu Rd., Poipu P808/742–6411, 866/994–1588 for reservations whawaiivacationcondos.outrigger.com a120 units XNo Meals xAdditional units managed by Castle Resorts.

HKoa Kea Hotel & Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | This boutique property offers a stylish high-end experience without the bustle of many larger resorts, making it a great place to forget it all while receiving an outdoor massage or lounging by the pool. Pros: smaller club-like scale; friendly service; perfect romantic getaway. Cons: not much for children; all parking is valet; busy area. DRooms from: $490 E2251 Poipu Rd., Poipu P808/742–4200 for general information, 808/742–4271 for reservations wwww.koakea.com a121 rooms XNo Meals.

Poipu Crater Resort

$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | Set down within an extinct volcanic crater known as Piha ke Akua, or “Place of the Gods,” these two-bedroom condominium units in South Pacific–style townhomes are fairly spacious, with large windows, high ceilings, and full kitchens (some have air-conditioning). Pros: attractive and generally well-kept; jungle-in-crater setting; tennis court, pool, and putting green. Cons: closest beach isn’t good for swimming; few resort amenities; individually owned units means upkeep and decor vary. DRooms from: $334 E2330 Hoohu Rd., Poipu wwww.vrbo.com, www.suite-paradise.com, www.parrishkauai.com a30 units XNo Meals.

Poipu Kapili Resort

$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | White-frame exteriors and double-pitched roofs complement the tropical landscaping at this resort, which offers spacious one- and two-bedroom condo units—with full kitchens, bedroom air-conditioning, entertainment centers, and garden or ocean views—that are minutes from Poipu’s restaurants and across the street from a nice beach. Pros: units are well-spaced; parking is close to the unit; tennis and pickleball on-site. Cons: units are ocean-view but not oceanfront; three-night minimum stay, seven-night minimum over holidays; additional charge for housekeeping. DRooms from: $375 E2221 Kapili Rd., Poipu P808/742–6449 for office, 800/443–7714 for reservations wpoipukapili.com, www.parrishkauai.com a60 units XNo Meals.

Poipu Plantation Vacation Rentals

$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | Plumeria, ti, and other tropical foliage create a lush landscape for this small resort, which rents a four-bedroom/four-bath house and nine one- and two-bedroom cottage apartments. Pros: air-conditioning; free Wi-Fi and parking; per diem rates for government employees and contractors. Cons: three-night minimum; not on the ocean; no resort amenities. DRooms from: $285 E1792 Pee Rd., Poipu P808/742–6757 wpoipubeach.com a9 cottages, 1 house XNo Meals.

HSheraton Kauai Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | The Sheraton is a sprawling resort with lodging that offers views of the ocean or lovely landscaped gardens; it’s worth splurging on the ocean-wing hotel rooms, which are so close to the water you can practically feel the spray of the surf as it hits the rocks below. Pros: ocean-view pool; restaurants with spectacular sunset views; good facilities for meetings, events, reunions. Cons: parking can be a ways from the rooms; renovated rooms but some dated infrastructure; basic gym and no spa. DRooms from: $541 EPoipu Beach, 2440 Hoonani Rd., Koloa P808/742–1661 wwww.sheraton-kauai.com a188 rooms, 166 condos XNo Meals.

HWhalers Cove Resort

$$$$ | APARTMENT | Perched about as close to the water’s edge as they can get, these one- and two-bedroom condos are the most luxurious on the South Shore. Pros: on-site staff and housekeeping; outstanding setting; spacious units with full kitchens. Cons: rocky beach not ideal for swimming; no air-conditioning; resort fee, but few amenities (curb-free entry and parking, Wi-Fi). DRooms from: $430 E2640 Puuholo Rd., Poipu P808/742–7571 local, 800/225–2683 toll-free wwww.whalerscoveresort.com a24 units XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

Keoki’s Paradise Bar

COCKTAIL BARS | A younger crowd makes this a lively spot on Friday and Saturday evenings, when live music can go until 9 pm. When the dining room clears out, there’s a bit of a scene in the tropical lounge. Themed happy hours include Taco Tuesday and Burger & Beer Wednesday, when vegetarians can swap local grass-fed beef for a Kauai-made taro patty. Try the Poipu Piña to sip from a pineapple. EPoipu Shopping Village, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., Suite 77, Poipu P808/742–7534 wwww.keokisparadise.com.

p Performing Arts

Grand Hyatt Kauai Luau

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | FAMILY | Excellent unlimited buffet food, an open bar, and exciting music and Polynesian dance performances characterize this traditional luau, held twice weekly (Wednesday and Saturday) in a garden setting near majestic Keoneloa Bay. EGrand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa, 1571 Poipu Rd., Poipu P808/742–1234 wgrandhyattkauailuau.com AFrom $175.

b Shopping

Halelea Gallery

ART GALLERY | In addition to offering original paintings, scratchboard art, and ceramics by Hawaii artists, this stylish gallery in The Shops at Kukuiula doubles as a boutique that sells a unique sampling of clothing, jewelry, bags, and gifts by local designers with prices that range from good values to splurges. E2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka Rd., Suite K, Poipu P808/742–9525 wwww.haleleagallery.com.

Poipu Shopping Village

SHOPPING CENTER | FAMILY | Convenient to hotels and condos along the shore, the two dozen shops at Poipu Shopping Village sell resort wear, gifts, souvenirs, jewelry, and art. This complex also has a number of food choices, from casual Indian, Thai, and pizza restaurants to a gelato stand and Starbucks. Hula shows and farmers’ markets in the open-air courtyard add to the ambience. E2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., Poipu P808/742–2831 wpoipushoppingvillage.com.

HThe Shops at Kukuiula

SHOPPING CENTER | The South Shore’s upscale shopping center has boutiques, exclusive galleries, several great restaurants, a gourmet grocer, a large drugstore, and Kauai-made Lappert’s Ice Cream. The flagship of the Malie Organics bath line, used by many top hotels and spas, is here, along with anchors like Lululemon, Tommy Bahama, and Deja Vu Surf. Check out the Kauai Culinary Market on Wednesday afternoons to see cooking demonstrations, listen to live music, and shop from local vendors. This attractive open-air plantation-style center gets busy on Friday nights. It’s at the roundabout as you enter Poipu. E2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka St., Poipu P808/742–9545 wtheshopsatkukuiula.com.

Lawai

4½ miles west of Poipu, 11 miles west of Lihue.

Lawai is becoming a trendy hub for artists’ studios, food trucks, and independent shops. It’s worth a stop when passing through between the West Side and South Shore, especially if you want a snack. The terraced hills of the Lawai and Kalaheo Valleys once supplied golden pineapples to the Lawai Cannery. After closing in 1964, the cannery was ravaged by two hurricanes and eventually demolished.

Sunshine Markets b

If you want to rub elbows with the locals and purchase fresh produce and flowers at (somewhat) reasonable prices, head for Sunshine Markets, also known as Kauai’s farmers’ markets. These busy markets, managed by the county, are held at Kapaa Ball Park on Wednesdays and Hanapepe Park on Thursdays. Both markets start at 3 pm and last about an hour. They’re good fun, and they support neighborhood farmers and vendors. Arrive a little early and bring cash and your own shopping bags to carry your produce.

b Shopping

Lawai Market

FOOD | The original Lawai General Store got a facelift and now offers grab-and-go breakfast and lunch, groceries, sundries, a good selection of beer and wine, and a coffee/smoothie bar. At the gateway between the South Shore and the West Side, it’s a fine spot to provision for adventures in the mountains or at the shore. Locals and condo renters alike stop by for farm produce, local beef, and house-baked bread, or to refuel with an acai bowl on the porch. Call or check Instagram for Sunday and holiday dinners to go. E3586 Koloa Rd., Lawai P808/332–7001 wwww.lawaimarket.com.

Warehouse 3540

MARKET | An old warehouse has new life as a marketplace for a dozen creative entrepreneurs and as a hub for food trucks. Hand-printed clothing, authentic lauhala hats, boho-chic jewelry, letterpressed cards, specialty food products, original paintings, and locally crafted soaps are offered at the oft-changing shops and stalls. Locals and visitors mingle at shaded picnic tables outside. On Second Saturday evenings each month, craft vendors, farmers, cooks, and musicians join the scene. E3540 Koloa Rd., Lawai.

The West Side

Exploring the West Side is akin to visiting an entirely different world. The landscape is dramatic and colorful—a patchwork of green, blue, black, and orange. The weather is hot and dry, the beaches long, and the sand dark. Niihau, a private island and the last remaining place in Hawaii where Hawaiian is spoken exclusively, can be glimpsed offshore.

This is rural Kauai, where sugar made its last stand and taro is still cultivated in the fertile river valleys. The lifestyle is slow, easy, and traditional, with many folks fishing and hunting to supplement their diets. Here and there modern industry has intruded into this pastoral scene: huge generators turn oil into electricity at Port Allen; seed companies cultivate experimental crops of genetically engineered plants in Kekaha and Waimea; the Navy launches rockets at Mana to test the “Star Wars” missile defense system; and NASA has a tracking station in the wilds of Kokee. It’s a region of contrasts that simply shouldn’t be missed.

Heading west from Lihue or Poipu, you pass through a string of tiny towns, plantation camps, and historic sites, each with a story to tell of centuries past. There’s Kalaheo, with its ranching roots; Hanapepe, whose coastal salt ponds have been harvested since ancient times; Kaumakani and Makaweli, picturesque former sugar camps; and Waimea, where Captain Cook made his first landing in the Islands, forever changing the face of Hawaii.

From Waimea Town you can head up into the mountains, skirting the rim of magnificent Waimea Canyon and climbing higher still until you reach the cool, often-misty forests of Kokee State Park. From vantage points at the top of this gemlike island, 3,200 to 4,200 feet above sea level, you can gaze into the deep, verdant valleys of the North Shore and Napali Coast. This is where the “real” Kauai can still be found: the native plants, insects, and birds that are located nowhere else on Earth.

Rainbow Capital of the World s

While folks in Western Europe and North America may catch a rainbow only a dozen times a year, these beautiful optical effects make a daily showing in Hawaii thanks to sunny days and frequent light, passing showers. Look for them in the afternoon, with the sun behind you. Also keep an eye out for double rainbows, which make a lovely photograph. Rainbows even appear on state license plates and University of Hawaii logo wear.

Kalaheo

6½ miles northwest of Poipu, 13 miles southwest of Lihue.

Cool, up-country Kalaheo––“the proud day” in Hawaiian––offers worthy stops for visitors. The world-famous Kauai Coffee Company, the largest producer of export-quality Hawaiian coffee, is based here, along with the headquarters of the National Tropical Botanical Garden, which has operations throughout Hawaii and Florida. The hilltop Kukuiolono Park offers a friendly nine-hole golf course, minigolf, walking paths, and cultural gardens. You’ll also find a gas station, notable eateries, and shops that welcome visitors, like a pie bakery and a nail salon. Kalaheo was never a plantation town; instead, Portuguese homesteaders and ranchers settled the area.

While many communities go crazy for their sports teams, Kauai fans feel intense pride in their Kalaheo-based hula halau (school)—a troupe of powerful, precise, elegant women that in 2022 swept the prestigious Merrie Monarch Festival competition on the Big Island of Hawaii. They perpetuate not only traditional dance but also the very soul of Hawaiian culture.

s Sights

HKauai Coffee Estate Visitor Center

FARM/RANCH | FAMILY | Two restored camp houses, dating from the days when sugar was the main agricultural crop on the Islands, have been converted into a museum, visitor center, snack bar, and gift shop. About 3,100 acres of McBryde sugar land have become Hawaii’s largest coffee plantation, with its 4 million trees producing more than half of the state’s beans. You can walk among the trees; view old grinders and roasters; watch a video to learn how coffee is grown, harvested, and processed; sample various estate roasts; and check out the gift store.

The center offers free self-guided tours through a small coffee grove (about 20 minutes); a personalized one-hour “Coffee on the Brain” tour for $25; and a “seed-to-cup” farm tour in an open-air truck for $45. From Kalaheo, take Route 50 in the direction of Waimea Canyon (west) and veer left onto Route 540. It’s 2½ miles from the Route 50 turnoff. E870 Halewili Rd., Kalaheo jBetween Kalaheo and Eleele on Rte. 540 P808/335–0813 for visitor center wkauaicoffee.com AFree; $25 for “Coffee on the Brain” tour; $45 for farm tour (fee discounted for children).

r Restaurants

Kalaheo Café & Coffee Company

$$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Folks love this roadside café—especially at breakfast and lunch, though it’s good for dinner, too—for its casual neighborhood feel and lengthy menu with omelets, sandwiches, burgers, and plenty more. Lots of Kauai products are used here, including Anahola Granola, fruit for smoothies, fresh-caught fish, and coffee, which you can also buy by the pound. Known for: fresh-baked pastries and bread; often busy, especially on weekend mornings; hearty portions, like the Kahili Breakfast. DAverage main: $22 E2–2560 Kaumualii Hwy. (Rte. 50), Kalaheo P808/332–5858 wkalaheo.com CNo dinner Sun.–Tues.

h Hotels

Kalaheo Inn

$ | B&B/INN | It isn’t easy to find good budget lodgings on the southwest side of the island, but this old-fashioned neighborhood inn with studios and one-, two-, and three-bedroom suites does an adequate job in cooler up-country Kalaheo Town. Pros: free Wi-Fi; walking distance to café and takeout; coin-operated laundry on-site. Cons: three-night minimum stay; no air-conditioning; dated furnishings. DRooms from: $83 E4444 Papalina Rd., Kalaheo P808/332–6023, 888/332–6023 wwww.kalaheoinn.com a15 units XNo Meals.

b Shopping

HAloha Exchange

SPORTING GOODS | The best-known brands in camp, beach, surf, and skate gear can be found at this flagship of Aloha Exchange, along with a good selection of locally designed graphic T-shirts and caps available exclusively here. Personalize your reusable water flask with a couple of their stickers as Island souvenirs. It’s popular with locals, especially younger beachgoers. E2–2535 Kaumualii Hwy., Kalaheo P808/332–5900 walohaxchng.com.

Hanapepe

6 miles west of Kalaheo, 15 miles west of Poipu.

Kauai’s “biggest little town” is now an art colony with galleries, craft studios, cafés, a bookshop, and a lively street fair on Friday nights. The main street has a new vibrancy enhanced by the restoration of several historic buildings where entrepreneurs have set up shop.

Once a bustling “free town” not tied to a plantation, Hanapepe was the center of West Side commerce, home to pool halls, a movie theater, and multiple brothels. By the 1980s, though, it was fast becoming a ghost town, its farm-based economy mirroring the decline of agriculture on the island. The emergence of Kauai coffee as a major West Side crop, a housing boom, and expanded activities at Port Allen—now the main departure point for tour boats—have given the town’s economy a boost.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Hanapepe is down the hill from the Eleele Shopping Center on the main highway (Route 50) as you head west. A sign leads you to the town center, where street parking is easy and there’s an enjoyable walking tour. Don’t miss the swinging bridge.

s Sights

Hanapepe Swinging Bridge

BRIDGE | FAMILY | This narrow, pedestrian-only bridge may not be the biggest adventure on Kauai, but it’s enough to make your heart hop. What is interesting is that it’s not just for show: it actually provides the only access to taro fields across the Hanapepe River. Considered a historic suspension bridge even though it was rebuilt in 1996 after the early-1900s original was destroyed—like so much of the island—by Hurricane Iniki, the bridge was also repaired following flood damage in 2019. If you’re in the neighborhood, it’s worth a stroll. EHanapepe jOff Hanapepe Rd., next to Banana Patch Studios parking lot.

Hanapepe Valley Lookout

VIEWPOINT | From this roadside lookout, you can take in the farms on the valley floor with the majestic mountains and misty valley as a backdrop. The dramatic canyon-like divide and fertile river valley once housed a thriving Hawaiian community of taro farmers, with some of the ancient fields still in cultivation. ERte. 50, Hanapepe.

; Beaches

Salt Pond Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | A great family spot, Salt Pond Beach Park features a naturally made, shallow swimming pond behind a curling finger of rock where keiki (children) splash and snorkel. This pool is generally safe except during a large south summer swell. The center and western edge of the beach are popular with bodyboarders and bodysurfers. The beach is also an easy spot to see stilts, tattlers, shearwaters, and other seabirds, as well as an occasional resting monk seal. Pavilions with picnic tables offer shade, and there’s a campground that tends to attract a rowdy bunch at the eastern end. On a cultural note, the mudflat behind the beach is the last spot in Hawaii where salt is harvested in the dry heat of summer, using pans passed down within families. The park is popular with locals, and it can get crowded on weekends and holidays. Amenities: lifeguard; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming; walking. ELolokai Rd., Hanapepe jOff Rte. 50 AFree.

r Restaurants

HJapanese Grandma’s Cafe

$$ | JAPANESE | Traditional methods for sushi, tempura, bento, and bowls meet fresh local ingredients to create delicious food in this modern outdoor café at the center of old Hanapepe. One of the few sit-down dining options in the area, Grandma’s also brings in chefs for tasting menus. Known for: trendy atmosphere; build-your-own bento bowl; ume-tini (plum wine martini). DAverage main: $22 E3871 Hanapepe Rd., Hanapepe P808/818–5647 wwww.japanesegrandma.com CClosed Tues.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Midnight Bear Breads

$ | BAKERY | Organic non-GMO flour is transformed into breads and pastries available at the bakery or at farmers’ markets and health-food stores around the island. Hot panini, tartines (open-faced sandwiches), pizza, and deli favorites use island-grown produce and make for a satisfying quick breakfast or lunch, for here or to go. Known for: good bread selection; local fruit Danish pastries; European-style buns and croissants. DAverage main: $12 E3830 Hanapepe Rd., Hanapepe P808/335–2893 wwww.midnightbearbreads.com CClosed Sun.–Tues. No dinner.

b Shopping

HKauai Chocolate Company

CHOCOLATE | The signature treat here, the chocolate opihi, is made with a dash of culinary humor: layers of crispy cookie, gooey caramel, crunchy macadamia nut, and chocolate shell form a little cone … a lot like the shape and texture of limpets found clinging to shoreline rocks and which are also considered a delicacy. Fear not: no seafood is involved in this decadent candy. Fudge, bars, and chocolate-covered pretzels make good gifts, and the gelato is ono (delicious). Phone and online orders are now accepted. EPort Allen Marina, 4353 Waialo Rd., Suite 1B, Eleele P808/335–0448 wkauaichocolate.com.

HTalk Story Bookstore

BOOKS | Located in a historic building in quiet Hanapepe Town, this is the only bookstore on Kauai, with some 25,000 titles and a resident cat. On Friday Art Nights, authors sign their books out front while live music and food trucks entertain meandering crowds. New, used, rare, and out-of-print books are sold here, as well as vinyl records, comics, vintage video games, and two exclusive sticker lines. E3785 Hanapepe Rd., Hanapepe P808/335–6469 wwww.talkstorybookstore.com.

Waimea and Waimea Canyon

Waimea is 7 miles northwest of Hanapepe; Waimea Canyon is approximately 10 miles northeast of Waimea.

An ideal place for a refreshment break while sightseeing on the West Side, Waimea is a serene, pretty town that has the look of the Old West and the feel of old Hawaii, with a lifestyle that’s decidedly laid-back. The town has played a major role in Hawaiian history since 1778, when Captain James Cook became the first European to set foot on the Hawaiian Islands. Waimea was also the place where Kauai’s King Kaumualii acquiesced to King Kamehameha’s island unification drive in 1810, averting a bloody war. The town hosted the first Christian missionaries, who hauled in massive timbers and coral-stone blocks to build the sturdy Waimea Foreign Church in 1846. It’s one of many lovely historic buildings preserved by residents, who take great pride in their heritage and history. The Historic Waimea Theater, which opened in 1938 with the first electric marquee lights on the island, still shows movies (wwww.waimeatheater.com).

North of Waimea Town, via Route 550, you’ll find the vast and gorgeous Waimea Canyon, also known as the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” The spectacular vistas from the lookouts along the road culminate in two overviews of Kalalau Valley, and various hiking trails lead to the inner heart of Kauai. A camera is a necessity in this region.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Route 50 continues northwest to Waimea and Kekaha from Hanapepe. You can reach Waimea Canyon and Kokee State Park from either town—the way is clearly marked. Some pull-off areas on Route 550 are fine for a quick view of the canyon, but the designated lookouts have bathrooms and parking.

s Sights

Kalalau Lookout

VIEWPOINT | At the end of the road, high above Waimea Canyon, the Kalalau Lookout marks the start of a 1-mile (one-way) walk along the road to the Puu o Kila Lookout. On a clear day at either spot, you can see a dreamy landscape of gaping valleys, sawtooth ridges, waterfalls, and turquoise seas, where whales can be seen spouting and breaching during the winter months. If clouds block the view, don’t despair—they tend to blow through, giving you time to snap that photo of a lifetime. You may spot wild goats clambering on the sheer rocky cliffs and white-tailed tropicbirds. If it’s very clear to the northwest, drink in the shining sands of Kalalau Beach, gleaming like golden threads against the deep blue of the Pacific. EKokee State Park, Waimea Canyon Dr. j4 miles beyond Kokee Museum wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp A$10 for parking; $5 per person admission fee for nonresidents.

Birds of Kauai s

Kauai offers some of the best birding in the state, due in part to the absence of the predatory mongoose. Many nene geese (the Hawaii state bird) reared in captivity have been successfully released here, along with an endangered forest bird called the puaiohi. The island is also home to multiple species of migratory nesting seabirds and has three refuges protecting endangered Hawaiian waterbirds and seabirds. Kauai’s most noticeable fowl, however, is the wild chicken. Roosters crow when they feel like it, not only at dawn. Consider yourself warned.

Kokee Natural History Museum

SCIENCE MUSEUM | FAMILY | A great place to start your visit in Kokee State Park, the museum has friendly staff who are knowledgeable about trail conditions and weather, as well as informative displays and a good selection of books about the area’s unique native flora and fauna and social history. You may find that special memento or gift you’ve been looking for. lNote that there’s generally no cell phone service in the park. ERte. 550, Kokee jIn Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow, after Mile Marker 15 P808/335–9975 wwww.kokee.org ADonations welcome.

Kokee State Park

STATE/PROVINCIAL PARK | FAMILY | This 4,345-acre wilderness park reaches 4,000 feet above sea level, an elevation that affords you breathtaking views and a cooler, wetter climate that’s in marked contrast to the beach. You can gain a deeper appreciation of the island’s rugged terrain and dramatic beauty from this vantage point. Large tracts of native ohia and koa forest cover much of the land, along with many varieties of both native and introduced plants. Hikers can follow a 45-mile network of trails through diverse landscapes that feel wonderfully remote—until the tour helicopters pass overhead. The small nonprofit museum provides park information, and the lodge offers hearty lunches. lNote that there’s generally no cell phone service in the park. ERte. 550, Kekaha j15–18 miles north of Kekaha wwww.kokee.org, dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp A$10 for parking; $5 per person admission fee for nonresidents.

Paulaula State Historic Site (Russian Fort Elizabeth)

RUINS | The ruins of this stone fort, built in 1816 by an agent of the imperial Russian government named Georg Anton Schäffer, are a reminder of the days when he tried to conquer Kauai for his homeland, or so one story goes. Another claims that Schäffer’s allegiance lay with King Kaumualii, who was attempting to keep leadership of his island from the grasp of Kamehameha the Great. The crumbling walls of this National Historic Landmark are not particularly interesting, but the signs loaded with historical information are. A bronze statue of King Kaumualii was installed in 2021, marking 200 years since the king was kidnapped to Oahu aboard the ship Haaheo o Hawaii in July 1821, during a reception aboard. Follow the statue’s gaze for a splendid view of Niihau. ERte. 50, Waimea (Kauai County) jJust above Waimea River bridge wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp, www.kauaikingkaumualii.org AFree.

HWaimea Canyon

CANYON | Carved over countless centuries by the Waimea River and the forces of wind and rain, Waimea Canyon is a dramatic gorge nicknamed the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific”—but not by Mark Twain, as many people mistakenly think. Hiking and hunting trails wind through the canyon, which is more than 3,600 feet deep, 1 mile wide, and about 14 miles long. The cliff sides have been sharply eroded, exposing swatches of colorful soil. The deep red, brown, and green hues are constantly changing in the sun, and frequent rainbows and waterfalls enhance the natural beauty. This is one of Kauai’s prettiest spots, and it’s worth stopping at both the Puu ka Pele and Puu Hinahina lookouts within the state park.

Public restrooms and parking are at most proper lookouts, and the main one has ramps for strollers and wheelchairs. If you stop at small pullouts, park completely off the highway and look for cyclists before opening car doors. ERte. 550 (Kokee Rd.), Waimea (Kauai County) P808/274–3444 wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp A$10 for parking; $5 per person daily fee for nonresidents at main park lookouts.

; Beaches

Kekaha Beach Park

BEACH | This is one of the premier spots on Kauai for sunset walks and the start of the state’s longest beach. We don’t recommend much water activity here without first talking to a lifeguard. The beach is exposed to open ocean and has an onshore break that can be hazardous any time of year. However, there are some excellent surf breaks for experienced surfers. If you’d like to run or stroll on a beach, this is the one—the hard-packed sand goes on for miles, all the way to Napali Coast, but you won’t get past the Pacific Missile Range Facility and its access restrictions. Another bonus for this beach is its relatively dry weather year-round. If it’s raining where you are, try Kekaha Beach Park. Toilets at the west MacArthur Park section are the portable kind. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; surfing; walking. ERte. 50, Kekaha jNear Mile Marker 27 AFree.

HPolihale State Park

BEACH | The longest stretch of beach in Hawaii starts in Kekaha and ends about 15 miles west at the start of Napali Coast. On the far west end is the 5-mile-long, 140-acre Polihale State Park, a remote beach accessed via a rough, rutted, potholed, 5-mile road at the end of Route 50 in Mana. (Four-wheel drive is recommended, and rental car companies may prohibit use of their vehicles here.) In addition to being long, this beach is 300 feet wide in places and backed by sand dunes 50 to 100 feet tall. Cultural sites, including burial sites, are located within the sensitive dune system. It is frequently very hot, with almost no shade and scorching sand. Start the day with a full tank of gas and a cooler filled with food and drink. zThough it’s a popular beach, the ocean here has dangerous currents and is not recommended for recreation. No driving is allowed on the beach. The U.S. Navy’s Pacific Missile Range Facility is adjacent, so access to the coastline in front of the base is monitored and restricted. The park is open for day use until sunset; permits are required for overnight camping. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: solitude; sunset; walking. EDirt road at end of Rte. 50, Kekaha P808/587–0300 wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp.

r Restaurants

HKokee Lodge

$ | AMERICAN | Talk about “farm to table”––Kokee Lodge grows much of its own produce, and the tables are handmade from local lumber. Local beef is used for loco mocos (white rice topped with a hamburger patty, brown gravy, and fried egg) and burgers, which can be served on fresh greens with house-made dressings; a veggie strata or a kalua pork plate, with Kokee plum barbecue sauce, is a perfect hot lunch on chilly days. Known for: live music; Portuguese bean soup with corn bread; pie and specialty coffee. DAverage main: $15 EKokee State Park, 3600 Kokee Rd., Kokee jAt Mile Marker 16, overlooking the meadow P808/335–6061 CNo dinner.

Wrangler’s Steakhouse & The Saddle Room

$$$ | STEAK HOUSE | FAMILY | The reins have been handed over to the next generation at this family-run restaurant, where meats are grilled over kiawe wood for a smokey flavor. Steaks and burgers are made from from Rancher’s Daughter’s Reserve grass-fed Kauai beef, lettuce is grown nearby at Iwikua Farms, and there’s usually a locally caught fish special. Known for: Western decor; local grass-fed beef; live music. DAverage main: $32 E9852 Kaumualii Hwy., Waimea (Kauai County) P808/338–1218 wwww.wranglerssaddleroom.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

h Hotels

The Cabins at Kokee

$ | HOUSE | If you’re an outdoors enthusiast, you can appreciate Kauai’s mountain wilderness from the dozen rustic cabins—of varying age and quality—that make up this lodge. Pros: outstanding setting; more refined than camping; cooking facilities. Cons: wood-burning stove is the only heat; no Wi-Fi or cell service; $79 cleaning fee. DRooms from: $89 EKokee State Park, 3600 Kokee Rd., Kokee jAt Mile Marker 15 P808/652–6852 wwww.westkauailodging.com a11 cabins XNo Meals.

HWaimea Plantation Cottages

$$ | RESORT | Originally built in the early 1900s, these relocated and refurbished one- to five-bedroom sugar-plantation workers’ cottages are tucked in a coconut grove along a lovely walkable stretch of beach on the sunny West Side. Pros: unique lodging experience; quiet setting and lovely grounds; full kitchens. Cons: no hot tub; not a good swimming beach; rooms are simple. DRooms from: $280 E9400 Kaumualii Hwy., Waimea (Kauai County) P808/338–1625 wcoasthotels.com a59 cottages XNo Meals.

b Shopping

Menehune Food Mart

CONVENIENCE STORE | Besides the grocery store in Waimea Town 2 miles away, this locally owned minimart in Kekaha is your last stop for snacks, beverages, ice, sunscreen, and limited grocery items before heading up to Waimea Canyon or out to Polihale Beach. E8171 Kekaha Rd., Kekaha jAt Rte. 50 P808/337–1335.

Activities and Tours

Kauai’s outdoor recreation options extend well beyond the sand and surf, with plenty of activities to keep you busy on the ground and even in the air. You can hike the island’s many trails, or consider taking your vacation into flight with a treetop zip line. You can have a backcountry adventure in a four-wheel drive, or relax in an inner tube floating down old cane-field irrigation canals.

Before booking tours, check with your concierge to find out what the forecast is for water and weather conditions. If you check online weather sources, be sure you search for Kauai-specific weather. There’s plenty of variation around the Islands. If you happen to arrive during a lull in the North Shore surf, you’ll want to plan to be on the ocean in a kayak or snorkeling on the reef. If it’s raining, ATV tours are the activity of choice.

Golfers should be aware that Kauai’s spectacular courses are rated among the most scenic, as well as the most technical, in the country. Princeville Makai Golf Course has garnered accolades from numerous national publications, and Poipu Bay Golf Course hosted the prestigious season-end PGA Grand Slam of Golf for 13 years.

One of the most popular, though pricey, Kauai experiences is to tour the island from the air. In an hour or so, you can see waterfalls, craters, and other places that are inaccessible even by hiking trails (some say that 70% or more of the island is inaccessible). The majority of flights depart from the Lihue airport and follow a clockwise pattern around the island. Be prepared to relive your flight in dreams for the rest of your life. The most popular flight is 60 minutes long. lIf you plan to take an aerial tour, it’s a good idea to fly when you first arrive, rather than saving it for the end of your trip. It will help you visualize what’s where on the island, and it may help you decide what you want to see from a closer vantage point during your stay.

Ancient Hawaiians were water-sports fanatics—they invented surfing, after all—and that propensity hasn’t strayed far from today’s mindset. Even if you’re not into water sports or sports in general, there’s only a slim chance that you’ll leave this island without getting out on the ocean, because Kauai’s top attraction—Napali Coast—is not to be missed.

For those who can’t pack enough snorkeling, fishing, bodyboarding, or surfing time into a vacation, Kauai has it all—everything except parasailing, that is, as it’s illegal to do it here (though not on Maui, the Big Island, or Oahu). If you need to rent gear for any of these activities, you’ll find plenty of places with large selections at reasonable prices. And no matter what part of the island you’re staying on, you’ll have several options for choice spots to enjoy playing in the water.

One thing to note, and we can’t say this enough—the waters off the coast of Kauai have strong currents and can be unpredictable, so always err on the side of caution and know your limits. Follow the tagline repeated by the island’s lifeguards—”When in doubt, don’t go out.”

Aerial Tours

If you only drive around Kauai in your rental car, you will not see all of Kauai. There is truly only one way to see it all, and that’s by air. Helicopter tours are the favorite way to get a bird’s-eye view of Kauai—they fly at lower altitudes, hover above waterfalls, and wiggle their way into areas that a fixed-wing aircraft cannot. That said, if you’ve already tried the helitour, how about flying in the open cockpit of a biplane, à la the Red Baron?

Air Tour Kauai

FLIGHTSEEING | This company can hold up to six people in its Cessna 206 plane, where every seat has a big window. The flights take off from less-crowded Port Allen Airport on the West Side and last 65 to 70 minutes. EPort Allen Airport, 3441 Kuiloko Rd., Hanapepe P808/335–5859 wwww.airtourkauai.com A$99.

Blue Hawaiian Helicopters

FLIGHTSEEING | This multi-island operator flies the latest in helicopter technology, the spacious Eco-Star. It boasts 23% more interior space for its six passengers, as well as unparalleled viewing and a few extra safety features. As the name implies, the helicopter is also a bit more environmentally friendly, with a 50% noise-reduction rate. It departs from either Lihue Airport or Princeville Heliport. A DVD of your tour is available for an additional $25. Charters can be arranged. E3651 Ahukini Rd., Heliport 8, Lihue P808/245–5800 wwww.bluehawaiian.com A$379.

HJack Harter Helicopters

FLIGHTSEEING | The first company to offer helicopter tours on Kauai flies the six-passenger ASTAR helicopter with floor-to-ceiling windows, as well as the four-person Hughes 500, which is flown with no doors. The exciting doorless ride can get windy, but it’s the best bet for taking reflection-free photos. Pilots provide information on the Garden Island’s history and geography through two-way intercoms. The company flies out of Lihue. Tours are longer than average, at 60 to 65 minutes and 90 to 95 minutes. E4231 Ahukini Rd., Lihue P808/245–3774 whelicopters-kauai.com AFrom $304.

Sunshine Helicopters

FLIGHTSEEING | If the name of this company sounds familiar, it may be because its pilots fly on all the main Hawaiian Islands except Oahu. On Kauai, Sunshine Helicopters flies the six-passenger FX STAR or the super-roomy six-passenger WhisperSTAR birds. Flights are from Lihue and last 50 to 55 minutes. lA lift is available for passengers needing special assistance. E3730 Ahukini Rd., Suite 2, Lihue P808/270–3999, 866/501–7738 wwww.sunshinehelicopters.com AFrom $294.

ATV Tours

Although all the beaches on the island are public, much of the low-elevation interior land—once sugar and pineapple plantations—is privately owned. This is really a shame, because the valleys and mountains that make up the vast interior of the island easily rival the beaches in sheer beauty. The good news: some tour operators have agreements with landowners that make exploration possible, albeit a bit bumpy—and unless you have back troubles, that’s half the fun. lIf it looks like rain, book an ATV tour ASAP. That’s the thing about these tours: the muddier, the better.

HKauai ATV

FOUR-WHEELING | This is the thing to do when it rains on Kauai—if you’re into an extreme mud bath. Kauai ATV in Koloa is the originator of the island’s all-terrain-vehicle tours and has upgraded with a brand-new fleet of UTVs (utility task vehicles). The three-hour Koloa tour takes you on 15 miles of trails through a private sugar plantation and historic haul-cane tunnel. It includes visits to movie filming sites and Waita Reservoir for catch-and-release fishing. They also have a four-hour bass fishing tour. You must be 18 or older to operate your own vehicle, but Kauai ATV also offers its four-passenger “Ohana Bug” and two-passenger “Mud Bugs” to accommodate families with kids ages five and older. You must be 25 or older to drive minors under age 18. E3477A Weliweli Rd., Koloa P808/742–2734 wkauaiatv.com AFrom $362 for 1–2 people.

Kipu Ranch Adventures

FOUR-WHEELING | This 3,000-acre property extends from the Huleia River to the top of Mt. Haupu. Jurassic Park and Indiana Jones were filmed here, and you’ll see the locations for them on either of the three-and-a-half-hour tours. The Ranch Tour covers a lot of territory so you’ll see a range of landscapes, from pastures to rain forest. The Waterfall Tour includes waterfall views and a swim. Once a sugar plantation, Kipu Ranch today is a working cattle ranch, so you’ll be in the company of bovines as well as pheasants, wild boars, and peacocks. If you’re not an experienced ATV driver, they also offer guide-driven tour options. E235 Kipu Rd., Lihue jOff Hwy. 50 P808/246–9288 wkiputours.com AFrom $187.

Biking

Kauai is a labyrinth of cane-haul roads, which are fun for exploring on two wheels. The challenge is finding roads where biking is allowed and then not getting lost in the maze. Maybe that explains why Kauai is not a hub for the sport—yet. Still, there are some epic rides for those who are interested, both the adrenaline-rush and the mellower beach-cruiser kind. If you want to grind out some mileage, you could take the main highway that skirts the coastal area, but be careful: there are only a few designated bike lanes, the shoulders are often crowded with invasive guinea grass, and the terrain is hilly. You may find that keeping your eyes on the road rather than the scenery is your biggest challenge. “Cruisers” should head to Kapaa, where Ke Ala Hele Makalae, a pedestrian and bicycle trail, runs along the East Side of Kauai for miles.

You can rent bikes (with helmets) from the activities desks of certain hotels, but these are not the best quality. You’re better off renting from Hele On Kauai in Kapaa, Outfitters Kauai in Poipu, or Pedal ’n’ Paddle in Hanalei. Ask for the “Go Green Kauai” map for a full description of Kauai biking options.

BEST SPOTS

HKe Ala Hele Makalae

BIKING | FAMILY | This county beach park multiuse path follows the coastline on Kauai’s East Side and is perfect for cruisers. Eventually, the path is projected to run some 20 miles, but an existing 8-mile-long stretch already offers scenic views, picnic pavilions, and restroom facilities along the way—all in compliance with the Americans with Disabilities Act. The path runs from Lydgate Beach Park north to secluded Kuna Bay (Donkey Beach).

An easy way to access the longest completed section of the path is from Kealia Beach. Park here and head north into rural lands with spectacular coastline vistas, or head south into Kapaa for a more immersive experience. EKapaa jTrailhead is 1 mile north of Kapaa; park at north end of Kealia Beach wwww.kauaipath.org.

Kokee Road

BIKING | Those wanting a challenging workout can climb this road, also known as Route 550. After a 3,000-foot climb, Kokee Road levels out somewhat and continues for several miles past the Kokee Natural History Museum, ending at the spectacular Kalalau Lookout. It’s 100% uphill and curvy, and the ride down can be a bit wild. Cyclists should exercise extreme caution on this road. Though it is paved the entire way, expect potholes and consistent vehicular traffic, including tour buses. Some cyclists use Waimea Canyon Road for the ascent, but it is steeper and narrower, with more potholes and an extremely precarious descent. lThere’s not much of a shoulder on either road—sometimes none—so be extra careful. Both roads get busier as the day wears on, so you may want to consider a sunrise ride.

Bicycles aren’t allowed on the hiking trails in and around Waimea Canyon and Kokee State Park, but there are miles of wonderful four-wheel-drive roads perfect for mountain biking. Check at the Kokee Museum for a map and conditions. ERte. 50, Waimea (Kauai County) jOff Rte. 50, near grocery store.

Moalepe Trail

BIKING | Intermediate to advanced trail-bike riders can tackle this trail on the East Side. The first 2 miles of the 5-mile narrow dirt road wind through pastureland, but the real challenge begins when you reach the steep and rutted switchbacks. A rainy spell can make the mud slick and hazardous. Moalepe intersects the Kuilau Trail, which you can follow to its end at the Keahua Arboretum stream, though the riding is more challenging on this section. EWailua (Kauai County) jFrom Kuhio Hwy. in Kapaa, drive mauka (toward mountains) on Kuamoo Rd. for 3 miles and turn right on Kamalu Rd., which dead-ends at Olohena Rd. Turn left and follow until road veers sharply right.

Powerline Trail

BIKING | Even advanced riders are challenged by this trail, which is actually an abandoned electric-company service road that splits the island. It’s 13 miles long: The first 5 miles go from 620 feet in elevation to almost 2,000. The remaining 8 miles descend gradually over a variety of terrain, some technical. You’ll have to carry your bike through some sections, but the views are dramatic. It offers little shade, so be prepared for the heat. lWhen it’s wet—in summer or winter—this trail is often impassable. Check with a knowledgeable bike shop for trail conditions first and be prepared to improvise. EPowerline Rd., Kilauea jTrailhead is mauka, just past stream crossing at Keahua Arboretum, or at end of Powerline Rd. in Princeville, past Princeville Ranch Stables.

Spalding Monument

BIKING | A possible option for the novice rider, this ride offers a workout and a summit ocean view that’s not overly strenuous to reach. From Kapaa, you can pedal a mile up Ke Ala Hele Makalae to reach the start of the ride. From near the end of Kealia Beach, ride up a gradual incline 2 miles through horse pastures to Spalding Monument, named for a former plantation owner. Palms circle the lava-rock wall, where you can picnic while enjoying a 180-degree ocean view. Behind you is the glorious mountain backdrop of Kalalea. Coasting back down the road offers an almost continual ocean view. EKealia jLoop begins at the end of Kealia Beach, past Mile Marker 10 on mauka side of road.

Wailua Forest Management Road

BIKING | For the novice mountain biker, this is an easy ride, and it’s also easy to find. From Route 56 in Wailua, turn mauka on Kuamoo Road and continue 6 miles to the picnic area known as Keahua Arboretum; park here. After crossing the stream on a bridge, you’ll be biking along a potholed four-wheel-drive road through lush vegetation—stay away during heavy rains because the streams flood—that continues for 2 miles to a T-stop, where you should turn right. Stay on the road for about 3 miles until you reach a gate; this is the spot where the gates in the movie Jurassic Park were filmed, though it looks nothing like the movie. EKuamoo Rd., Kapaa.

EQUIPMENT AND TOURS

Hele On Kauai

BIKING | In a location offering easy access to the Ke Ala Hele Makalae bike trail, this shop has a range of rental options, including beach cruisers, hybrids, mountain bikes, road bikes, electric bikes, and even tandem bikes by two-hour blocks and the day. They also service bikes, as well as sell bikes and riding gear. You can even arrange to have bikes delivered to a riding location for a fee. E4–1302 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/822–4628 wwww.kauaibeachbikerentals.com AFrom $20 per 2-hr rental.

Kauai Cycle

BIKING | This reliable full-service bike shop sells and repairs bikes, rents beach cruisers, and has a wide range of cycling gear. The Ke Ala Hele Makalae coastal path is right out the back door. E4–934 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa jAcross from Taco Bell P808/821–2115 wwww.kauaicycle.com AFrom $30 per day rental.

Pedal ‘n’ Paddle

BIKING | Located in the heart of Hanalei, this company rents old-fashioned, single-speed beach cruisers and hybrid road bikes. This is a great way to cruise the town. It’s not recommended to venture out of town because there are no bike lanes on the twisting-and-turning road. EChing Young Village, 5–5190 Kuhio Hwy., Suite 1413, Hanalei P808/826–9069 wpedalnpaddle.com AFrom $20 per day and $80 per week rentals.

Boat Tours

Deciding to see Napali Coast by boat is an easy decision, but choosing the outfitter to go with is not. There are numerous boat-tour operators to choose from, and, quite frankly, they all do a good job. Before you even start thinking about whom to go out with, answer these three questions: What kind of boat do I prefer? Where am I staying? Do I want to go in the morning or afternoon? Once you settle on these three, you can easily zero in on the tour outfitter.

First, the boat. The most important thing is to match your personality and that of your group with the personality of the boat. If you like thrills and adventure, rubber inflatable rafts—often Zodiacs, which Jacques Cousteau made famous and which the U.S. Coast Guard uses—will entice you. They’re fast, likely to leave you drenched and windswept, and the ride is quite bouncy. If you prefer a smoother, more leisurely ride, then large catamarans are the way to go.

The next boat choice is size. Both the rafts and catamarans come in small and large. Again—think smaller for a more adventurous and rougher ride, or larger for a more leisurely and comfortable cruise. lDo not choose a smaller boat simply because you think there will be fewer people. There might be fewer people, but you’ll be jammed together sitting close to strangers. If you prefer privacy over socializing, go with a larger boat, so you’ll have more room to spread out. The smaller boats typically take you along the coast at a higher rate of speed, making photo opportunities a bit more challenging.

Boats leave from three points around the island (Hanalei, Port Allen, and Waimea), and all head to the same spot: Napali Coast. If you’re staying on the North Shore, choose to depart out of the North Shore, except in wintertime when the boats sometimes can’t navigate the big surf. If you’re staying anywhere else, depart out of the West Side. It’s that easy. Sure, the North Shore is closer to Napali Coast; however, you’ll pay more for less overall time. The West Side boat operators may spend more time getting to Napali Coast, but they’ll spend about the same amount of time along Napali, plus you’ll pay less.

Finally, you’ll also have to decide whether you want to go on a morning tour, which usually includes a deli lunch and a stop for snorkeling, or an afternoon tour, which does not always stop to snorkel but may include a sunset over the ocean. The morning tours with snorkeling are more popular with families and those who love dolphins, as the animals enjoy the “waves” created by the front of the catamarans and might just escort you down the coast. Hawaiian spinner dolphins are so plentiful in the mornings that some tour companies guarantee you’ll see them, though you won’t get in the water and swim with them. The winter months will also be a good chance to spot some whales breaching, though the surf will be much rougher along Napali. You don’t have to be an expert snorkeler or even have any prior experience; if it is your first time, note that although there will be some snorkeling instruction, there might not be much and you’ll be in deep water in the open ocean, which novices may find intimidating. Afternoon tours are more popular with nonsnorkelers—obviously—and photographers interested in capturing the setting sunlight on the coast. Another factor to consider is that the winds often pick up in the afternoons, making the water rougher. lNo matter which tour you select, book it online whenever possible to ensure a spot.

CATAMARAN TOURS

HBlue Dolphin Charters

BOATING | Offering the largest selection of tours, Blue Dolphin operates 65-foot sailing (rarely raised and always motoring) catamarans designed with three decks of spacious seating with great visibility, as well as motorized rafts. lThe lower deck is best for shade seekers. The most popular option is a daylong tour of Napali Coast, which includes snorkeling and diving. Morning snorkel tours of Napali include a deli lunch. Sunset sightseeing tours include a Hawaiian-style buffet. North Shore and South Shore rafting tours are also available, as are daily private sightseeing and snorkeling charters. Blue Dolphin promises dolphin sightings and the best mai tais “off the island.” Book online at least 10 days advance for a $10 discount. E4353 Waialo Rd., Suite 7B, Eleele P808/335–5553 wbluedolphinkauai.com AFrom $179; $115 for 2-hr whale-watching/sunset tours, winter only.

Boat Tour Weather Cancellations s

If it’s raining where you’re staying, that doesn’t mean it’s raining over the water, so don’t shy away from a boat tour. Besides, it’s not the rain that should concern you—it’s the wind and waves. Especially from due north and south, wind creates surface chop and makes for rough riding. Larger craft are designed to handle winter’s ocean swells, however, so unless monster waves are out there, your tour should depart without a hitch. If the water is too rough, your boat captain may reroute to calmer waters. It’s a tough call to make, but your comfort and safety are always the foremost factors.

In winter months, North Shore departures are cancelled much more often than those departing the West Side. This is because the waves are often too big for the boats to leave Hanalei Bay; as a result, some operators only work the summer season. If you want the closest thing to a guarantee of seeing Napali Coast in winter, choose a West Side outfitter. Oh, and even if your tour boat says it cruises the “entire Napali,” keep in mind that “ocean conditions permitting” is always implied.

HCapt. Andy’s Sailing Adventures

BOATING | FAMILY | Departing from Port Allen on the West Side and running 55- and 60-foot sailing catamarans—as well as 24-foot inflatables out of Kikiaola Harbor in Kekaha—Capt. Andy’s offers something for every taste, from raft expeditions to yachting. They have several full-day tours, as well as whale-watching and snorkeling packages, and four-hour sunset tours along Napali Coast. The Zodiac rafts have hydrophones to hear whales and other underwater sounds and typically visit a remote beach. The longtime Kauai company also operates a snorkel barbecue sail and a dinner sunset sail aboard its Southern Star yacht, originally built for private charters, for an upgraded feel. lIf the winds and swells are up on the North Shore, this company is usually a good choice—especially if you’re prone to seasickness. E4353 Waiola Rd., Suite 1A–2A, Eleele P808/335–6833 wwww.napali.com AFrom $99.

Catamaran Kahanu

BOATING | Hawaiian-owned and -operated, Catamaran Kahanu has been in business since 1985 and runs a 40-foot power catamaran with 18-passenger seating. It offers seasonal whale-watching and snorkeling cruises, ranging from two to five hours, and departs from Port Allen. The five-hour, year-round Napali Coast tour includes snorkeling at Nualolo Kai, plus a deli lunch and soft drinks. No alcohol is allowed. Check-in is at 7 am, and the boat returns at approximately 1 pm. The tour feels more personal than some operations, with a laid-back ohana (family) style, and information is shared about Hawaiian culture and the natural environment. The two-hour whale-watching tour is available from late December through March and begins at 1:15 and 3:30 pm. E4353 Waialo Rd., Eleele jNear Port Allen Marina Center P808/645–6176 wcatamarankahanu.com AFrom $100.

Holo Holo Charters

BOATING | Choose between the 50-foot catamaran called Leila for a morning snorkel sail to Napali Coast or the 65-foot Holo Holo for a seven-hour catamaran trip to the “forbidden island” of Niihau. Both boats have large cabins and little outside seating. Originators of the Niihau tour, Holo Holo Charters built their 65-foot powered catamaran with a wide beam to reduce side-to-side motion and with twin 425 HP turbo-diesel engines specifically for the 17-mile channel crossing to Niihau. It’s the only outfitter running daily Niihau tours. The Holo Holo also embarks on a daily sunset and sightseeing tour of Napali Coast. Leila can hold 37 passengers, while her big sister can take a maximum of 47. Check-in is at Port Allen Marina Center. E4353 Waialo Rd., Suite 5A, Eleele P808/335–0815 wwww.holoholocharters.com AFrom $210.

Kauai Sea Tours

BOATING | Sailing from Port Allen, this company operates the Lucky Lady, a 60-foot sailing catamaran with spacious seating, and the sleeker and faster Imiloa, a 40-foot express catamaran. Snorkeling tours anchor near Makole (based on the captain’s discretion). If snorkeling isn’t your thing, try the two-hour, seasonal whale-watching cruise or the four-hour sunset tour with beer, wine, mai tais, pupu (appetizers), and a hot buffet dinner. Tours of Napali, one with a beach landing in a remote valley, are offered on inflatable rafts. E4353 Waialo Rd., Suite 2B–3B, Eleele P808/335–5309, 800/733–7997 toll-free wkauaiseatours.com AFrom $125.

Liko Kauai Cruises

BOATING | There are many things to like about Liko Kauai Cruises, including the choice of a 49-foot smooth-riding powered catamaran that carries a maximum of 32 passengers or the 32-foot custom-built lightning catamaran that accommodates 12. Sometimes, Captain Liko himself—a Native Hawaiian—still takes the helm. The larger vessel, with its 360-degree walk-around, is perfect for photography. Both boats have a freshwater shower on board and offer five-hour morning and afternoon tours of Napali that include snorkeling, food, and soft drinks. Trips depart out of Port Allen. E4516 Alawai Rd., Waimea (Kauai County) P808/338–0333 wliko-kauai.com AFrom $169.

RAFT TOURS

Blue Ocean Adventure Tours

BOATING | This West Side–based company focuses on Napali Coast tours using either rafts or a super-fast and comfortable 48-foot catamaran. The five-hour morning and afternoon tours cover the entire 17-mile coast, with snorkeling, snacks, and photography stops. A six-hour tour option also includes landing at Nualolo Kai for a Hawaiian-style buffet picnic on the beach and 30-minute nature walk. The tours are lively and informative. Private adventures can be arranged. EKikiaola Small Boat Harbor, 8932 Kekaha Rd., Kekaha P800/451–6133 wwww.goblueadventures.com AFrom $189.

Kauai Sea Tours

BOATING | This is one of just a few companies with a special state permit to land at Nualolo Kai along Napali Coast, ocean conditions permitting. Here, you’ll enjoy a picnic lunch, as well as an archaeological tour of an ancient Hawaiian fishing village. Or you can take a half-day snorkeling tour, with morning and afternoon departures; in winter, there’s also a two-hour whale watching tour. Kauai Sea Tours operates four 24-foot inflatable rafts, which have maximum occupancy of 14. These are small enough for checking out the insides of sea caves and the undersides of waterfalls. EPort Allen Marina Center, 4353 Waialo Rd., Suite 2B–3B, Eleele P808/335–5309, 800/733–7997 toll-free wkauaiseatours.com AFrom $180.

Kauai Z-Tourz

BOATING | FAMILY | What we like about Kauai Z-Tourz is that it’s a boat company that makes safety and snorkeling its priority. Its two- and three-hour guided tours focus solely on the South Shore’s abundant offshore reefs. If you’re new to snorkeling or want someone to actually identify the tropical reef fish you’re seeing, this is your company. Turtle sightings are pretty much guaranteed. The craft is a 25-foot rigid-hull inflatable (think Zodiac) with a maximum of 16 passengers. Rates include snacks and snorkel gear. Snorkeling tours that depart from the shore (no boats) are also available. E3417 Poipu Rd., Suite 105, Poipu P808/742–7422 wkauaiztours.com AFrom $99.50.

Na Pali Riders

BOATING | This tour-boat outfitter distinguishes itself by cruising the entire 17-mile Napali Coast, clear to Kee Beach and back. It’s a no-frills tour—no lunch provided, just beverages and snacks. The company runs morning and afternoon four-hour snorkeling, sightseeing, and whale-watching trips out of Kikiaola Harbor in Waimea on a 30-foot inflatable raft with a 28-passenger maximum, which can feel a bit cramped. E9600 Kaumualii Hwy., Waimea (Kauai County) P808/742–6331 wwww.napaliriders.com A$189.

RIVERBOAT TOURS TO FERN GROTTO

Smith’s Motor Boat Service

BOATING | The 2-mile trip up the lush and lovely Wailua River, the only navigable waterway in Hawaii, culminates at the Fern Grotto, a yawning lava tube that is covered with fishtail ferns. During the boat ride, guitar and ukulele players serenade you with Hawaiian melodies and tell the history of the river. It’s a kitschy, but fun bit of Hawaiiana, and the river scenery is beautiful. Flat-bottom, 150-passenger riverboats (they rarely fill up) depart from Wailua Marina at the mouth of the Wailua River. lIt’s extremely rare, but occasionally after heavy rains the tour doesn’t disembark at the grotto; if you’re traveling in winter, ask beforehand. Round-trip excursions take 1½ hours, including time to walk around the grotto and environs. Tours are offered at 9:30 and 11 am and 2 and 3:30 pm. E5971 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/821–6895 wwww.smithskauai.com/fern-grotto A$30 CClosed weekends.

Bodyboarding and Bodysurfing

The most natural form of wave riding is bodysurfing, a popular sport on Kauai because there are many shore breaks around the island. Wave riders of this style stand waist deep in the water, facing shore, and swim madly as a wave picks them up and breaks. It’s great fun and requires no special skills and absolutely no equipment other than a swimsuit. The next step up is bodyboarding, also called boogie boarding. In this case, wave riders lie with their upper body on a foam board about half the length of a traditional surfboard and kick as the wave propels them toward shore. Again, this is easy to pick up, and there are many places around Kauai to practice.

Locals wear short-finned flippers to help them catch waves, which is a good idea to enhance safety in the water. It’s worth spending a few minutes watching these experts as they spin, twirl, and flip—that’s right—while they slip down the face of the wave. lOf course, all beach-safety precautions apply, and just because you see wave riders of any kind in the water doesn’t mean the water is safe for everyone. Be especially cautious when there’s a strong shore break. Most snorkeling-gear outfitters also rent bodyboards.

Some of our favorite bodysurfing and bodyboarding beaches are Brennecke’s, Wailua, Kealia, Kalihiwai, and Hanalei Bay.

Deep-Sea Fishing

Simply step aboard and cast your line for mahi mahi, ahi, ono, and marlin. That’s about how quickly the fishing—mostly trolling with lures—begins on Kauai. The water gets deep quickly here, so there’s less cruising time to fishing grounds, which is nice, since Hawaii’s seas are notoriously rough. Of course, your captain may elect to cruise to a hot location where they’ve had good luck lately.

There are oodles of charter fishers around; most depart from Nawiliwili Harbor in Lihue, and most use lures instead of live bait. Inquire about each boat’s “fish policy”; that is, what happens to the fish if any are caught. Some boats keep all; others will give you enough for a meal or two, even doing the cleaning themselves. On shared charters, ask about the maximum passenger count and about the fishing rotation. You’ll want to make sure everyone gets a fair shot at reeling in the big one. Another option is to book a private charter. Shared and private charters run four, six, and eight hours in length.

BOATS AND CHARTERS

Captain Don’s Sportfishing

FISHING | Captain Don is very flexible and treats everyone like family—he’ll stop to snorkel or whale-watch if that’s what the group (four to six) wants. Saltwater fly fishers (bring your own gear) are welcome. He’ll even fish for bait and let you keep whatever you catch, as long as the fish is less than 25 pounds. On a shared trip, everyone gets part of the catch. His Happy Ryder, a 39-foot Hatteras boat, sails out of Nawiliwili, near Lihue. ENawiliwili Small Boat Harbor, 2494 Niumalu Rd., Nawiliwili P808/639–3012 wcaptaindonsfishing.com AFrom $185 for shared charters; from $850 for private charters.

Go Fish Kauai

FISHING | What’s particularly nice about this company is its roomy 38-foot Bertram, Kai Bear. It docks in Nawiliwili Small Boat Harbor near Lihue, which is convenient for those staying on the East Side. The prices are reasonable, with four- and six-hour tours and private charters. They share the catch. ENawiliwili Small Boat Harbor, 2900 Nawiliwili Rd., Slip 300, Nawiliwili P808/652–4556 wwww.kaibear.com AFrom $180 for shared charters; from $900 for private charters.

Golf

For golfers, the Garden Isle might as well be known as the Robert Trent Jones Jr. Isle. Four of the island’s eight courses, including Poipu Bay—onetime home of the PGA Grand Slam of Golf—are the work of Jones, who previously lived at Princeville. Combine these four courses with those from Jack Nicklaus, Robin Nelson, and local legend Toyo Shirai, and you’ll see that golf sets Kauai apart from the other Islands as much as the Pacific Ocean does. lAfternoon tee times at most courses can save you big bucks.

Kiahuna Golf Club

GOLF | A meandering creek, lava outcrops, and thickets of trees give Kiahuna its character. Robert Trent Jones Jr. was given a smallish piece of land just inland at Poipu, and defends par with smaller targets, awkward stances, and optical illusions. In 2003 a group of homeowners bought the club and brought Jones back to renovate the course (it was originally built in 1983), adding tees and revamping bunkers. The pro here boasts his course has the best putting greens on the island. This is the only course on Kauai with a complete set of tee boxes for juniors. E2545 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., Koloa P808/742–9595 wwww.kiahunagolf.com A$140, including cart J18 holes, 6787 yards, par 70.

Ocean Course at Hokuala

GOLF | Jack Nicklaus–designed Ocean Course at Hokuala offers a beautiful and distinctly Hawaiian golf experience. With an assortment of plants and tropical birds adding to the atmosphere, this course winds through dark ravines and over a picturesque landscape. The fifth hole is particularly striking, as it requires a drive over a valley populated by mango and guava trees. The final holes feature unmatched views of Nawiliwili Bay, including the harbor, a lighthouse, and secluded beaches. This course also offers footgolf, played with a soccer ball, on a nine-hole loop. lGet the lowest rates by booking online. E3351 Hoolaulea Way, Lihue P808/241–6000 wwww.golfhokuala.com AFrom $279, including cart J18 holes, 7156 yards, par 72.

Poipu Bay Golf Course

GOLF | Poipu Bay on the South Shore has been called “the Pebble Beach of Hawaii,” and the comparison is apt. Like Pebble Beach, Poipu is a links course built on headlands, not true links land. There’s wildlife galore. It’s not unusual for golfers to see monk seals sunning on the beach below, sea turtles bobbing outside the shore break, and humpback whales leaping offshore. From 1994 to 2006, the course (designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr.) hosted the annual PGA Grand Slam of Golf. Tiger Woods was a frequent winner here. Prices are slightly higher in the winter high season. The course is adjacent to the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa. Save by playing a second round within 10 days. E2250 Ainako St., Koloa P808/742–8711 wwww.poipubaygolf.com A$255 before noon or $215 after noon, including cart J18 holes, 6127 yards, par 72.

HPrinceville Makai Golf Club

GOLF | The 27-hole Princeville Makai Golf Club on the North Shore was named for its five ocean-hugging front holes. Designed by golf-course architect Robert Trent Jones Jr. in 1971, the 18-hole championship Makai Course has consistently been ranked a top golf course in the United States. lCheck the website for varying rates, as well as other nongolf activities at the facility, including disc golf or sunrise yoga against the spectacular ocean views. E4080 Lei O Papa Rd., Princeville P808/826–1912 wwww.makaigolf.com A$345, including cart JMakai Course: 18 holes, 7223 yards, par 72; Woods Course: 9 holes, 3445 yards, par 36.

Wailua Municipal Golf Course

GOLF | Considered by many to be one of Hawaii’s best public golf courses, this seaside course provides an affordable game with minimal water hazards, but it is challenging enough to have been chosen to host three USGA Amateur Public Links Championships. It was first built as a nine-holer in the 1930s, and the second nine holes were added in 1961. Course designer Toyo Shirai created a course that is fun but not punishing. The trade winds blow steadily on the East Side of the island, adding a challenge to play. An ocean view and affordability make this one of the most popular courses on the island with locals and visitors alike. Tee times are accepted up to seven days in advance. E3–5350 Kuhio Hwy., Lihue P808/241–6666 wwww.kauai.gov/golf A$48 on weekdays; $60 on weekends; $24 for cart rental J18 holes, 6585 yards, par 72.

Hiking

The best way to experience the aina—the land—on Kauai is to step off the beach and hike in the hills and valleys of the island’s interior. You’ll find waterfalls so tall you’ll strain your neck looking, pools of crystal clear water for swimming, tropical forests teeming with plant life, and ocean vistas that will make you wish you could stay forever.

All hiking trails on Kauai are free, except for Kalalau Trail, which you must pay an entry and shuttle or parking fee to access through Haena State Park. Hikers are reminded to leave no trace and pay attention to weather conditions, especially flash flood warnings, that could leave them stranded. Backcountry hikers anywhere in Hawaii should also clean their shoes, gear, and clothing thoroughly before and after a hike to prevent the spread of Rapid Ohia Death, a deadly fungal disease that is killing the beautiful ohia trees that dominate Hawaii forests. lFor your safety, wear sturdy shoes, preferably water-resistant ones.

BEST SPOTS

HKalalau Trail

HIKING & WALKING | Of all the hikes on Kauai, the Kalalau Trail (11 miles one-way; permit required) is by far the most famous and strenuous. Any part of it should be undertaken only by well-prepared hikers. A moderate hiker can handle the 2-mile trek from Kee to Hanakapiai Beach. This steep, often muddy trail is best approached with a walking stick. If there has been any steady rain, wait for drier days for a more enjoyable trek. An unmarked trail leads an additional 2 miles up to Hanakapiai Falls, but be prepared to rock-hop along a creek and ford waters that can get waist high and dangerous during the rain. Round-trip from Kee to Hanakapiai Falls is 8 miles.

The narrow Kalalau Trail delivers one startling ocean view after another along a path that is alternately shady and sunny. Wear hiking shoes or water sandals, and bring ample drinking water since natural sources are not potable. Plenty of food is always encouraged on a strenuous hike such as this one. You must purchase a day pass in advance at wgohaena.com to access Haena State Park, where you’ll find the trailhead.

If you plan to hike beyond Hanakapiai Valley or stay overnight, you must acquire a state camping permit, which includes access to Haena State Park, for $35 per person per night. Trail and campground capacity beyond Hanakapiai is limited to 60 hikers/campers, and permits, which are issued 90 days out, are snapped up quickly. Hikers and campers will most likely need reservations to catch the Go Haena shuttle at Waipa, just west of Hanalei, as trailhead parking is very limited. jDrive north past Hanalei to end of road. Trailhead is directly across from Kee Beach wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/hiking/kauai/kalalau-trail A$35 per person per night for camping permit; $15–$40 for Haena Park entry.

Mahaulepu Heritage Trail

HIKING & WALKING | This popular trail offers the moderate hiker an accessible way to appreciate the rugged southern coast of Kauai. A 2-mile trail wends its way along the water, high above the ocean, through a lava field, and past a sacred heiau (stone structure). Walk north to Mahaulepu for a two-hour, 4-mile round-trip. If conditions and the season are right, you should be able to see dolphins, honu (green sea turtles), and whales. jDrive north on Poipu Rd., and turn right at Poipu Bay Golf Course sign. The street name is Ainako, but sign is hard to see. Drive down to beach and park in lot.

Okolehao Trail

HIKING & WALKING | Okolehao basically translates to “moonshine” in Hawaiian: this steep, challenging, and often muddy trail follows the Hihimanu Ridge and was established in the days of Prohibition, when this backyard liquor was distilled from the roots of ti plants. Your ascent begins at the China Ditch off the Hanalei River. Follow the trail through a lightly forested grove and then climb up a steep embankment. From here the trail is well marked. Most of the climb is lined with hala, ti, wild orchid, and eucalyptus. You’ll get your first of many ocean views at Mile Marker 1, which for many is a good place to turn back. Reaching the top of the peak requires rope assistance. EHanalei jFollow Ohiki Rd. (north of Hanalei Bridge) 5 miles to U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service parking area. Directly across street is small bridge that marks trailhead.

Sleeping Giant (Nounou Mountain) Trail

HIKING & WALKING | An easily accessible trail practically in the heart of Kapaa, the moderately strenuous Sleeping Giant Trail—or simply Sleeping Giant—gains 1,000 feet over 2 miles for a 4-mile round trip. We prefer an early-morning—say, sunrise—hike up from the East Side trailhead, with sparkling blue-water vistas, but there are other backside approaches. At the top is a grassy plot with a picnic table. The trail is a local favorite, with many East Siders meeting here to exercise. EHaleilio Rd., Wailua (Kauai County) jOff Rte. 56.

HWaimea Canyon and Kokee State Park

HIKING & WALKING | FAMILY | These adjacent parks contain a 50-mile network of hiking trails of varying difficulty that take you through acres of native forests, across the highest-elevation swamp in the world, to the river at the base of the canyon, and onto pinnacles of land sticking out over Napali Coast. All hikers are encouraged to register at the Kokee Natural History Museum, which has trail maps, current trail information, and specific directions. Camping permits ($30 per night) can be obtained 90 days in advance. Visit the state website for trail closures and updates.

The steep Kukui Trail descends 2,200 feet over 2½ miles into Waimea Canyon to the edge of the Waimea River. The Awaawapuhi Trail, with 1,600 feet of elevation gains and losses over 3¼ miles, feels more gentle than the Kukui Trail, but it offers its own huffing-and-puffing sections in its descent along a spiny ridge to a perch overlooking the ocean.

The 3½-mile Alakai Swamp Trail is accessed via the Pihea Trail or a four-wheel-drive road. There’s one strenuous valley section, but otherwise it’s a pretty level trail—once you access it. This trail is a bird-watcher’s delight and includes a painterly view of Wainiha and Hanalei valleys at the trail’s end. The trail traverses the purported highest-elevation swamp in the world via a boardwalk so as not to disturb the fragile plant and wildlife. It is typically the coolest of the hikes, due to the tree canopy, elevation, and cloud coverage.

The Canyon Trail offers much in its short trek: spectacular vistas of the canyon and its only dependable waterfall. This easy 2-mile hike is especially lovely when the late-afternoon sun sets the canyon walls ablaze in color. (All distances are one-way.) EKokee Natural History Museum, 3600 Kokee Rd., Kekaha P808/335–9975 for trail conditions wdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/kauai A$5 entrance fee for nonresidents; $10 parking fee for nonresidents; $30 per person per night for overnight camping permit.

EQUIPMENT AND TOURS

HKauai Nature Tours

SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS | Scientist Chuck Blay started this hiking tour business and continues to lead informative excursions to coastal and mountain localities, such as the Kokee State Park area, Mahaulepu, and other areas upon request, aside from the Kalalau Trail. His emphasis is on exploring and discussing the natural history of each place, including its geology, botany, fauna, and cultural aspects. While he will lead small groups, personal tours are encouraged so he can tailor the location and duration of hikes to the interests and physical condition of participants. lIf you have a desire to see a specific location, just ask. He will do custom hikes to spots he doesn’t normally hit if there is interest. Hikes range from easy to strenuous. E5162 Lawai Rd., Koloa P888/233–8365 wwww.kauainaturetours.com AFrom $155 per person.

Horseback Riding

Unless you’re on a private ride, horseback riding tours on Kauai primarily involve walking, with little trotting and no cantering or galloping, so no experience is required. Still, the terrain is rough, so good back and joint health is recommended. At the time of this writing, the island has just one stable offering rides, so advance reservations are essential.

CJM Country Stables

HORSEBACK RIDING | FAMILY | Just past the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa in Poipu, CJM Stables offers two-hour rides along the beautiful Mahaulepu coastline, as well as the adjacent ranch and old sugar lands. One ride includes a picnic lunch. Private rides customized to your riding experience, including a sunrise excursion, are also available. The landscape here is rugged and beautiful, featuring sand dunes and limestone bluffs. CJM can get you as close as anyone to secluded Mahaulepu Bay. The company sponsors seasonal rodeos that are free and open to the public, and also participate in other popular community events. EPoipu Rd., Koloa j1½ miles from Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa P808/742–6096 wwww.cjmstables.com AFrom $195.

Kayaking

Kauai is the only Hawaiian island with navigable rivers. As the oldest inhabited island in the chain, Kauai has had more time for wind and water erosion to deepen and widen cracks into streams and streams into rivers. Because this is a small island, the rivers aren’t long and there are no rapids, which makes them generally safe for kayakers of all levels—even beginners—except when rivers are flowing fast from heavy rains.

For more advanced paddlers, there aren’t many places in the world more beautiful for sea kayaking than Napali Coast. If this is your draw to Kauai, plan your vacation for the summer months, when the seas are at their calmest. lTour and kayak-rental reservations are recommended at least two weeks in advance during peak summer and holiday seasons.

In general, tours and rentals are available year-round, Monday through Saturday. Pack a swimsuit, sunscreen, a hat, rash guard, bug repellent, water shoes (sport sandals, aqua socks, old tennis shoes), and water and motion sickness medication (take in advance) if you’re planning on sea kayaking.

RIVER KAYAKING

Tour outfitters operate on the Huleia, Wailua, and Hanalei rivers with guided tours that combine kayaking with hiking to waterfalls, in the case of the first two rivers, and snorkeling, in the case of the third. Another option is renting kayaks and heading out on your own. Each river has its advantages and disadvantages, but it boils down as follows.

If you want to swim at the base of a remote 100-foot-tall waterfall, sign up for a five-hour kayak (4-mile round-trip) and hiking (2-mile round-trip) tour of the Wailua River. It includes a dramatic waterfall that is best accessed with the aid of a guide, so you don’t get lost. lRemember—it’s dangerous to swim under waterfalls no matter how good a water massage may sound. Rocks and logs are known to plunge down, especially after heavy rains.

If you want to kayak on your own, choose the Hanalei River. It’s most scenic from the kayak itself; there are no trails to hike to hidden waterfalls. And better yet, a rental company is right on the river—no hauling kayaks on top of your car.

If you’re not sure of your kayaking abilities, head to the Huleia River; a 3½-hour tour includes easy paddling upriver, a nature walk through a rain forest with a cascading waterfall, a rope swing for playing Tarzan and Jane, and a ride back downriver—into the wind—on a motorized double-hull canoe.

As for the kayaks themselves, most companies use the two-person sit-on-top style that is quite buoyant—no Eskimo rolls required. The only possible danger comes in the form of communication. The kayaks seat two people, which means you’ll share the work with a guide (good) or with your spouse, child, parent, or friend (the potentially dangerous part). On the river, the two-person kayaks are jokingly known as “divorce boats,” so be patient with your partner. Counseling is not included in the tour price.

SEA KAYAKING

Kayaking Napali Coast has long been a thrill-seeker’s dream, ranking right up there with rafting the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. It’s the adventure of a lifetime in one day, involving eight hours of paddling beneath the tropical sun or overnight camping in remote valleys. Although it’s good to have some kayaking experience, feel comfortable on the water, and be reasonably fit, it doesn’t require the preparation, stamina, or fortitude of, say, climbing Mt. Everest. Tours run May through September, ocean conditions permitting. In the winter months, sea-kayaking tours operate on the South Shore—a beautiful area, though not as dramatic as Napali.

EQUIPMENT AND TOURS

Kayak Kauai

KAYAKING | The company that pioneered kayaking on Kauai offers guided tours on the Wailua River and sea-kayak tours departing out of Hanalei Bay, Haena, and Polihale. Adventure seekers can take multiday, escorted summer sea-kayak tours and camping trips on Napali Coast. From its convenient location in the Wailua Marina, Kayak Kauai can launch kayaks right into the Wailua River for its five-hour Secret Falls hike-paddle tour and three-hour paddle to a swimming hole. Sea-kayak whale-watching tours round out the aquatic repertoire. The company will shuttle kayakers as needed, and, for rentals, it provides the hauling gear necessary for your rental car. Snorkel gear, bodyboards, and stand-up paddleboards also can be rented, but note that it is closed weekends. EWailua Marina, 3–5971 Kuhio Hwy., Bldg. 3, Wailua (Kauai County) P808/826–9844, 888/596–3853 toll-free wkayakkauai.com AFrom $95 for river tours and $310 for sea tours; from $135 per day for kayak rentals.

Kayak Wailua

KAYAKING | We can’t quite figure out how this family-run business offers pretty much the same Wailua River kayaking tour as everyone else—except for lunch and beverages, which are BYO—for the lowest price, but it does. They say it’s because they don’t discount and don’t offer commissions to activities and concierge desks. Their trip—a four-and-a-half-hour kayak, hike, and waterfall swim—is offered six times a day, with the last at 1 pm. With the number of kayaks going out, large groups can be accommodated. No tours are allowed on the Wailua River on Sunday. E4565 Haleilio Rd., Kapaa jBehind old Coco Palms hotel P808/822–3388 wkayakwailua.com A$85.

HNapali Kayak

KAYAKING | A couple of longtime guides ventured out on their own to create this company, which focuses solely on sea-kayaking paddles and 17-mile multiday camping voyages along Napali Coast. These guys are highly experienced and still highly enthusiastic about their livelihood. They operate from May to September, offering full-day Napali Coast tours departing from Haena and five-hour tours out of Polihale; both tours stop for a lunch break at Milolii. They also rent river and ocean kayaks, camping equipment, and first-aid kits. Reservations well in advance are suggested. E5–5075 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei jNext to Postcards Café P808/826–6900 wwww.napalikayak.com AFrom $305.

Outfitters Kauai

KAYAKING | FAMILY | This well-established tour outfitter operates year-round river-kayak tours that go through some lovely scenery on the Huleia and Wailua rivers. Their specialty (though they have other tours) is the Kipu Safari, an all-day adventure that starts with an easy paddle up the Huleia River, a short hike to waterfalls that includes swinging on a rope over a swimming hole, a picnic lunch, and two “zips” across the rain-forest canopy (strap on a harness, clip into a cable, and zip over a quarter of a mile). They then offer a one-of-a-kind Waterzip Zip Line at their mountain stream–fed blue pool. The day ends with a leisurely ride on a motorized double-hull canoe. It’s a great tour for the family, because no one ever gets bored. E230 Kipu Rd., Lihue P808/742–9667, 888/742–9887 woutfitterskauai.com AFrom $135; $255 for Kipu Safari.

Wailua Kayak & Canoe

KAYAKING | This purveyor of kayak rentals is right on the Wailua River, which means no hauling your kayak on top of your car (a definite plus). Morning and afternoon five-hour guided kayak tours are also offered, with a short hike to a waterfall and refreshments. lIndividuals undergoing pregnancy or relevant medical conditions, as well as children under five, are restricted from kayaking. E162 Wailua Rd., Kapaa P808/821–1188 wwailuariverkayaking.com A$65 per day for single kayak rental, $155 per day for double kayak rental; from $115 for guided tours.

Mountain Tubing

Hawaii’s sugarcane plantations have steadily closed one by one. In 2009, Gay & Robinson announced the closure of Kauai’s last plantation; in 2016, HC&S ended the last operation in the state, on Maui. However, the sugarcane irrigation ditches remain, striating these Islands like spokes in a wheel. Inspired by the Hawaiian auwai, which diverted water from streams to taro fields, these engineering feats also diverted streams, often from many miles away. One ingenious tour company on Kauai has figured out a way to make exploring them an adventure: float inflatable tubes down the route.

Kauai Backcountry Adventures

LOCAL SPORTS | FAMILY | Both zip-lining and tubing tours are offered by this company. Popular with all ages, the tubing adventure can book up two weeks in advance in busy summer months. Here’s how it works: You recline in an inner tube and float down fern-lined irrigation ditches that were built more than a century ago—the engineering is impressive—to divert water from Mt. Waialeale to sugarcane and pineapple fields around the island. You are even given a headlamp so you can see as you float through five covered tunnels. The scenery from the island’s interior at the base of Mt. Waialeale on Lihue Plantation land is superb. Ages five and up are welcome. The tour takes about three hours and includes a picnic lunch and a dip in a very cold swimming hole. lYou’ll definitely want to pack water-friendly shoes (or rent some from the outfitter), sunscreen, a hat, bug repellent, and a beach towel. Thirteen tours are offered daily on the half hour. E3–4131 Kuhio Hwy., Hanamaulu jAcross from gas station P808/245–2506 local, 855/846–0092 wkauaibackcountry.com A$149.

Scuba Diving

The majority of scuba diving on Kauai occurs on the South Shore. Boat and shore dives are available, although boat sites surpass the shore sites for a couple of reasons. First, they’re deeper and exhibit the complete symbiotic relationship of a reef system, and second, the visibility is better a little farther offshore. You’ll also visit more than one site on a boat dive.

The dive operators on Kauai offer a full range of services, including certification dives, referral dives, boat dives, shore dives, night dives, and drift dives. Be sure to inquire about a company’s safety record and precautions if you are new to the activity. lAs for certification, we recommend completing your confined-water training and classroom testing before arriving on the island. That way, you’ll spend less time training and more time diving.

BEST SPOTS

The closest and safest scuba-diving sites are accessed by boat on the South Shore of the island, right off the shores of Poipu. The captain selects the actual site based on ocean conditions on the day. Beginners may prefer shore dives, which are best at Koloa Landing on the South Shore year-round.

For the advanced and adventuresome diver, the island of Niihau—across an open ocean channel in deep and crystal clear waters—beckons and rewards, usually with some big fish. Seasport Divers, Fathom Five, and Bubbles Below venture the 17 miles across the channel in summer, when the crossing is smoothest. Divers can expect deep dives, walls, and strong currents at Niihau, where conditions can change rapidly. To make the long journey worthwhile, three dives and Nitrox are included.

EQUIPMENT, LESSONS, AND TOURS

Bubbles Below

SCUBA DIVING | Marine ecology is the emphasis here aboard the 36-foot, 14-passenger Kaimanu. This longtime Kauai company discovered some pristine and adventuresome dive sites on the West Side of the island, where white-tip reef sharks are common—and other divers are not. They also run South Side trips, Niihau, Napali, and North Shore dives year-round (depending on ocean conditions, of course). A bonus on these tours is the wide variety of food served between dives. Open-water certification dives, check-out dives, and intro shore dives are available upon request. Tanks and weights are included, but they have no equipment rentals. EPort Allen Small Boat Harbor, 4353 Waialo Rd., Eleele P808/332–7333 wbubblesbelowkauai.com A$180 for 2-tank boat dive; $400 for Niihau charter.

Dive Kauai

SCUBA DIVING | This company offers boat dives but specializes in shore diving for beginners, typically at Koloa Landing (year-round) on the South Shore. They’re not only geared toward beginning divers and those who haven’t been diving in a while—for whom they provide a gentle introductory/refresher dive—but they also offer scooter (think James Bond) dives for certified divers. Their main emphasis is a detailed review of marine biology, such as pointing out rare dragon eels and harlequin shrimp tucked away in pockets of coral. lHands down, we recommend Dive Kauai for beginners, certification (all levels), and refresher dives. One reason is that their instructor-to-student ratio does not exceed 1:4 for beginners; for certified divers the ratio can be 1:6. All dive gear is included. ESheraton Kauai Resort, 2440 Hoonani Rd., Suite 7, Koloa P808/742–7422 wdivekauai.com A$169 for a 2-tank certified shore dive; $229 for a 2-tank boat dive.

HFathom Five

SCUBA DIVING | This operator offers it all: boat dives, shore dives, night dives, Niihau-Lehua dives, certification dives. They pretty much do what everyone else does with a few twists. First, they offer a three-tank premium charter to Niihau for those really serious about diving. Second, they operate a Nitrox continuous-flow mixing system, so you can decide the mix rate. Third, they add on a twilight dive to the standard one-tank night dive, making the outing worth the effort. Fourth, their shore diving isn’t an afterthought. Fifth, they don’t mix advanced and rusty divers on their fleet of six-passenger boats. Finally, we think their dive masters are pretty darn good, too. Book well in advance. E3450 Poipu Rd., Koloa P800/972–3078 wwww.fathomfive.com AFrom $199 for boat dives; from $152 for shore dives; $65 for gear rental, if needed.

Seasport Divers

SCUBA DIVING | Rated highly by readers of Scuba Diving magazine, Seasport Divers’ 48-foot Anela Kai tops the chart for dive-boat luxury, including hot water showers. But owner Marvin Otsuji didn’t stop with that. A second boat—the 32-foot catamaran Ahuhea—is outfitted for diving, but we like it as an all-around charter. The company does brisk business, which means it won’t cancel at the last minute because of a lack of reservations. They limit passengers to 12 on the three-tank, 12-hour Niihau trips (available in summer) but may book up to 18 people per boat on South Shore dives. lThere are slightly more challenging trips in the morning; mellower dive sites are in the afternoon. Night dives are offered, too. The company runs a good-size dive shop for purchases and rentals, as well as a classroom for certification. E2827 Poipu Rd., Poipu jLook for the yellow submarine in parking lot P808/742–9303 wseasportdivers.com AFrom $199 for certified divers; $129 for 1-tank shore dive, plus $45 gear charge.

Snorkeling

BEST SPOTS

Generally speaking, the calmest water and best snorkeling can be found on Kauai’s North Shore in summer and South Shore in winter. The East Side, known as the windward side, has year-round, prevalent northeast trade winds that make snorkeling unpredictable, although there are some good pockets. The best snorkeling on the West Side is accessible only by boat.

A word on feeding fish: don’t. As Captain Ted with Holo Holo Charters says, fish have survived and populated reefs for much longer than we have been donning goggles and staring at them. They will continue to do so without our intervention. Besides, fish food messes up the reef and—one thing always leads to another—can eliminate a once-pristine reef environment.

As for gear, if you’re snorkeling with one of the Napali boat-tour outfitters, they’ll provide it; however, depending on the company, it might not be the latest or greatest. If you have your own, bring it. On the other hand, if you’re going out with Z-Tourz, the gear is top-notch. If you need to rent or want to buy, hit one of the “snorkel-and-surf” shops, such as Snorkel Bob’s in Koloa and Kapaa, Nukumoi Surf Co. in Poipu, or Seasport Divers in Poipu. lIf you wear glasses, you can rent prescription masks at some rental shops—just don’t expect them to match your prescription exactly.

Stand-Up Paddleboarding

This is an increasingly popular sport that even a novice can pick up—and have fun doing. Beginners start with a heftier surfboard and a longer-than-normal canoe paddle. And, just as the name implies, stand-up paddlers stand on their surfboards and paddle out from the beach, which requires calm water, especially for beginners. The perfect place to learn is a river or bay (think Hanalei or Kalapaki) or a calm lagoon (try Anini). But this sport isn’t just for beginners. Tried-and-true surfers turn to it when the waves are not quite right for their preferred sport, because it gives them another reason to be on the water. Stand-up paddlers catch waves earlier and ride them longer than longboard surfers. Professional stand-up paddling competitions have popped up, and surf shops and instructors have adapted to the sport’s quick rise in popularity.

EQUIPMENT

Not all surf instructors teach stand-up paddling, but more and more are, like Titus Kinimaka’s Hawaiian School of Surfing (Fsee Surfing).

Backdoor Hanalei

WATER SPORTS | Along with its sister store across the street—Hanalei Surf Company—Backdoor provides just about all the rentals necessary for a fun day at Hanalei Bay, along with clothing and new boards. EChing Young Village, 5–5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei P808/826–9000 wwww.hanaleisurf.com/our-sister-stores.

Hawaiian Surfing Adventures

WATER SPORTS | This Hanalei location has the largest variety of surfboards and stand-up boards and paddles for rent by the hour or day. Check in at the storefront and then head down to the beach, where your gear will be waiting. The 90-minute private and group lessons start on the scenic Hanalei River and then move to Hanalei Bay if the students are ready and conditions are right. This Native Hawaiian–owned company also offers surfboard and kayak rentals and surfing lessons. Sundays are by appointment only. E5–5134 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei P808/482–0749 wwww.hawaiiansurfingadventures.com AFrom $40 for paddleboard rentals; from $25 for surfboard rentals; from $75 for group lessons.

Kauai Beach Boys

WATER SPORTS | There’s no hauling your gear on your car with this outfitter, which is right on the beach at Kalapaki. The 90-minute classes are offered four times daily. In addition to stand-up paddleboarding lessons, they offer surfing lessons and a chance to paddle a traditional outrigger canoe. E3610 Rice St., Lihue P808/246–6333 wkauaibeachboys.com A$99 for 90-min surf or stand-up paddleboarding lesson.

Surfing

Good ol’ stand-up surfing remains extremely popular on Kauai, especially in winter’s high-surf season on the North Shore. If you’re new to the sport, we highly recommend taking a lesson. Not only will this ensure you’re up and riding waves in no time, but instructors will also provide the right board for your experience and size, help you time a wave, and give you a push to get your momentum going. You don’t need to be in top physical shape to take a lesson. Because your instructor helps push you into the wave, you won’t wear yourself out paddling.

If you’re experienced and want to hit the waves on your own, most surf shops rent boards for all levels, from beginners to advanced. lJust be aware that surfing on Kauai is often more challenging than elsewhere.

BEST SPOTS

Perennial-favorite beginning surf spots include Poipu Beach Park (the area fronting the Marriott Waiohai Beach Club), Hanalei Bay near the pier, and the stream end of Kalapaki Beach. More advanced surfers move down the beach in Hanalei to an area fronting a grove of pines known as Pine Trees, or paddle out past the pier. When the trade winds die, the north ends of Wailua and Kealia beaches are teeming with surfers. Breaks off Poipu and Beach House/Lawai Beach attract intermediates year-round. During high surf, the break on the cliff side of Kalihiwai is for experts only. Advanced riders will head to Polihale to face the heavy West Side waves when conditions are right.

EQUIPMENT AND LESSONS

Blue Seas Surfing School / Surf Kauai With Charlie

SURFING | FAMILY | Surfer and instructor Charlie Smith specializes in beginners (especially children), and though he operates primarily at Poipu Beach on the South Shore, lessons are offered elsewhere on the island. His soft-top longboards are very stable, making it easier to stand up, and he provides surf boots and shirts. He specializes in small group or private lessons, so personal interaction is a priority. Private lessons include a video. E1959 Hoone Rd., Koloa P808/634–6979 wsurfkauaiwithcharlie.com AFrom $75 for 90-min small-group lesson; $150 for 90-min private lesson.

Nukumoi Surf Co.

SURFING | Owned by the same folks who own Brennecke’s restaurant, this shop arranges surfing lessons through Poipu Beach Surf School and provides board (surfing, body, and stand-up paddleboard), snorkel, and beach-gear rentals, as well as casual clothing for sale. Their primary surf spot is the beach fronting the Sheraton. E2080 Hoone Rd., Koloa P808/742–8019 wwww.nukumoisurf.com A$75 for 90-min group lessons; $250 for private sessions.

Progressive Expressions

SURFING | This full-service shop has a choice of rental boards and a whole lotta shopping for clothes, swimsuits, and casual beachwear. E5428 Koloa Rd., Koloa P808/742–6041 wwww.progressiveexpressions.com.

Tamba Surf Company

SURFING | Kauai’s homegrown surf shop is your best East Side bet for surfboard, stand-up paddleboard, and snorkel gear rentals. It also sells new boards and offers surfing lessons on demand, as conditions allow. Tamba is a big name in local surf apparel. E4–1543 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa P808/823–6942 wwww.tamba.com A$125 for group lessons; $225 for private lessons.

HTitus Kinimaka’s Hawaiian School of Surfing

SURFING | Famed as a pioneer of big-wave surfing, this Hawaiian believes in giving back to his sport. Beginning and intermediate lessons are offered on the hour seven times a day at Hanalei, with a maximum of four students. If you want to learn to surf from a living legend, this is the man. Advanced surfers can also request a customized surf excursion with Titus himself. lHe employs other instructors, so if you want Titus, be sure to ask for him. (And good luck, because if the waves are going off, he’ll be surfing, not teaching.) Customers are able to use the board for a while after the lesson is complete. EQuicksilver Surf Shop, 5–5088 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei P808/652–1116 wwww.hawaiianschoolofsurfing.com A$75 for 90-min group lessons; $75 for 90-min stand-up paddleboarding lessons.

Whale-Watching

Every winter North Pacific humpback whales swim some 3,000 miles over 30 days, give or take a few, from Alaska to Hawaii. Whales arrive as early as November and sometimes stay through April, though they seem to be most populous in February and March. They come to Hawaii to breed, calve, and nurse their young.

TOURS

Nothing beats the thrill of seeing a whale up close. During the season, any boat on the water is looking for whales; they’re hard to avoid, whether the tour is labeled “whale-watching” or not. Consider the whales a benefit to any boating event that may interest you. If whales are definitely your thing, though, you can narrow down your tour-boat decision by asking a few whale-related questions, like whether there’s a hydrophone on board, how long the captain has been running tours in Hawaii, and if anyone on the crew is a marine biologist or trained naturalist.

A number of boat operators offer two-hour afternoon whale-watching tours on the South Shore (not Napali) during the season. They include Blue Dolphin, Capt. Andy’s, Catamaran Kahanu, and Holo Holo Charters (Fsee Boat Tours). Trying one of these excursions is a good option for those who have no interest in snorkeling or sightseeing along Napali Coast, although keep in mind, the longer you’re on the water, the more likely you’ll be to see the humpbacks.

One of the more unique ways to (possibly) see some whales is atop a kayak. For such an encounter, try Outfitters Kauai’s South Shore kayak trip (Fsee Kayaking).

A few lookout spots around the island have good land-based viewing: Kilauea Lighthouse on the North Shore, the Kapaa Scenic Overlook just north of Kapaa Town on the East Side, and the cliffs to the east of Keoniloa (Shipwreck) Beach on the South Shore.

Zip-Lining

Whether you call this popular, relatively new adventure on Kauai “zipping” or “zip-lining,” chances are you’ll scream like a rock star while trying it. Strap on a harness, clip onto a cable running from one side of a river or valley to the other, and “zip” across. The step off is the scariest part. lPack knee-length shorts or pants, athletic shoes, and courage for this adventure.

Outfitters Kauai

ZIP LINING | This outfitter offers four zip line adventures, including some of the state’s longest and biggest lines. Adventures range from a 2-mile zip to a shorter version that has you flying in a headfirst position at speeds up to 60 mph. Tandem lines spare you from going it alone. The most popular adventure is the Kipu Zipline Safari Tour, which features an 1,800-foot tandem zip, a paddle on the Wailua River, and a hike. Outfitters Kauai emphasizes safety, and each zipper must be at least seven years old. E230 Kipu Rd., Poipu P808/742–9667, 888/742–9887 wwww.outfitterskauai.com AFrom $55.

WELCOME TO MOLOKAI

TOP REASONS TO GO

A waterfall hike in Halawa: A fascinating guided (intermediate) hike through private property takes you past ancient ruins, restored taro patches, and a sparkling cascade.

Deep-sea fishing: Sport fish are plentiful in these waters, as are gorgeous views of several islands. Fishing is one of the island’s great adventures.

Closeness to nature: Deep valleys, sheer cliffs, endless rainbows, and the untamed ocean are the main attractions on Molokai.

Papohaku Beach: This 3-mile stretch of golden sand is one of the most sensational beaches in all of Hawaii. Sunsets and barbecues are perfect here.

Molokai is about 10 miles wide on average and four times that long. Its south shore slides almost flat into the water, then fans out to form the largest shallow-water reef system in the United States. Its north shore thrusts up from the sea to form the tallest sea cliffs on Earth (surprisingly, though, the highest point on Molokai rises to only 4,970 feet). Central Molokai is home to Kaunakakai, the island’s main town.

West Molokai. The most arid part of the island, known as the west end, has two inhabited areas: the coastal stretch includes a few condos and luxury homes, along with the largest beaches on the island; nearby is the fading hilltop hamlet of Maunaloa, a former plantation town, whose backdrop is the dormant volcano that shares its name. Papohaku Beach, one of the remote beaches found here, is the Hawaiian Islands’ second-longest white-sand beach.

Central Molokai. The island’s only true town, Kaunakakai, with its mile-long wharf, is here. Nearly all the island’s eateries and stores are in or close to Kaunakakai. Highway 470 crosses the center of the island, rising to the top of the sea cliffs and the Kalaupapa Lookout. At the base of the cliffs is Kalaupapa National Historical Park (check ahead about ongoing closures) on the peninsula of the same name.

East Molokai. The scenic drive on Route 450 around this undeveloped area, also called the east end, passes through the green pastures of Puu O Hoku Ranch and climaxes with a descent into Halawa Valley. As you continue east, the road becomes increasingly narrow and the island ever more lush.

With sandy beaches to the west, sheer sea cliffs to the north, and a rainy, lush eastern coast, Molokai’s landscapes are diverse. It also affords a peek at what the Islands were like 50 years ago. Large tracts of land from Hawaiian Homeland grants have allowed the people to retain much of their traditional lifestyle. A favorite expression is “Slow down, you’re on Molokai.”

Named in chants as the child of the moon goddess, Hina, Molokai was created when two large volcanoes—Kamakou in the east and Maunaloa in the west—broke the surface of the Pacific Ocean. A third section emerged when a much smaller caldera, Kauhako, popped up to form the Kalaupapa Peninsula, which juts out from Central Molokai. But it wasn’t until an enormous landslide sent much of Kauhako Mountain into the sea that the island was blessed with the sheer sea cliffs—the world’s highest—that make the north shore so spectacularly beautiful.

For centuries Molokai was occupied by native people, who took advantage of the reef fishing and ideal conditions for growing taro. In the 1840s, the isolated Kalaupapa Peninsula became a place of exile for people suffering from Hansen’s disease (aka leprosy).

Today, of the nearly 8,000 residents on what is the fifth-largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago, roughly 60% are Hawaiian. They live an authentic rural lifestyle, and many oppose developing the island for outsiders. The pride these citizens take in their home and their island’s unique history have kept tourism at bay.

Indeed, Molokai is generally thought of as the last bit of “real” Hawaii. There are no tall buildings, no traffic lights, no streetlights, no stores bearing the names of national chains, and no sprawling resorts. You will, however, find 15 parks, more than 100 miles of shoreline, and friendly and hospitable people. At night, the whole island grows dark, creating a velvety blackness and a wonderful rare silence.

Planning

When to Go

If you’re keen to explore Molokai’s beaches, coral beds, or fishponds, summer is your best bet for nonstop calm seas and sunny skies. The weather mimics that of the other Islands: low to mid-80s year-round, slightly rainier in winter. As you travel up the mountainside, the weather changes with bursts of downpours. The strongest storms occur in winter when winds and rain shift to come in from the south.

For a taste of Hawaiian culture, plan your visit around a festival. In January, Islanders and visitors compete in ancient Hawaiian games at the Ka Molokai Makahiki Festival. The Molokai Ka Hula Piko, an annual daylong event in May, draws premier hula troupes, musicians, and storytellers. Long-distance canoe races from Molokai to Oahu are in late September and early October. Although never crowded, the island is busier during these events—book accommodations and transportation six months in advance.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

You can readily drive everywhere on the island in two days, perhaps spending one day on the west end and another on the east end. Basically, you have one 40-mile west–east highway (two lanes, no stoplights) with three side trips: the nearly deserted little west-end town of Maunaloa; the Highway 470 drive (just a few miles) to the top of the north shore and the overlook of Kalaupapa Peninsula; and the short stretch of shops in Kaunakakai town. Remember that, as is true throughout Hawaii, directions here are often given as mauka (toward the mountains) and makai (toward the ocean).

lMost Molokai establishments cater to the needs of locals, not tourists, so you may need to prepare a bit more than usual. Pick up a disposable cooler in Kaunakakai town, and then buy supplies in local markets. Don’t forget to carry some water, and bring sunscreen and mosquito repellent to the island with you.

Getting Here and Around

AIR

If you’re flying in from the mainland United States, you must first make a stop in Honolulu, Oahu or Kahului, Maui. From either of those, Molokai is just a short hop away. Molokai’s transportation hub is Molokai Airport (MKK), a tiny airstrip 8 miles west of Kaunakakai and about 18 miles east of Maunaloa. An even smaller airstrip serves the little community of Kalaupapa on the north shore.

From Molokai Airport (sometimes called Hoolehua Airport), it takes about 10 minutes to reach Kaunakakai and 25 minutes to reach the west end of the island by car. There’s no public bus. A taxi will cost about $27 from the airport to Kaunakakai with Hele Mai Taxi. Keep in mind, however, that it’s difficult to visit the island without a rental car.

AIRPORT CONTACTS Molokai Airport (MKK). E3980 Airport Loop, Hoolehua P808/567–9660 wairports.hawaii.gov/mkk.

TAXI CONTACTS Hele Mai Taxi. EKaunakakai P808/336–0967 wmolokaitaxi.com.

CAR

If you’re flying in from the mainland United States, you must first make a stop in Honolulu, Oahu or Kahului, Maui. From either of those, Molokai is just a short hop away. Molokai’s transportation hub is Molokai Airport (MKK), a tiny airstrip 8 miles west of Kaunakakai and about 18 miles east of Maunaloa. An even smaller airstrip serves the little community of Kalaupapa on the north shore.

From Molokai Airport (sometimes called Hoolehua Airport), it takes about 10 minutes to reach Kaunakakai and 25 minutes to reach the west end of the island by car. There’s no public bus. A taxi will cost about $27 from the airport to Kaunakakai with Hele Mai Taxi. Keep in mind, however, that it’s difficult to visit the island without a rental car.

CONTACTS Alamo Rent a Car. E3980 Airport Loop, Building 2, Hoolehua P808/567–6381 wwww.alamo.com. Mobettah Car Rentals. E3980 Airport Loop, Hoolehua P808/308–9566 wmobettah-car-rentals.business.site.

Beaches

Molokai’s unique geography gives the island plenty of shoreline drama and spectacle but not so many places for seaside basking and bathing. The long north shore consists mostly of towering cliffs that plunge directly into the sea and is inaccessible except by boat, and even then only in summer. Much of the south shore is enclosed by a huge reef, which stands as far as a mile offshore and blunts the action of the waves. Within this reef you can find a thin strip of sand, but the water here is flat, shallow, and at times clouded with silt. This reef area is best suited to wading, pole fishing, kayaking, and paddleboarding.

The big, fat, sandy beaches lie along the west end. The largest of these—the second largest in the Islands—is Papohaku Beach, which fronts a grassy park shaded by a grove of kiawe (mesquite) trees. These stretches of west-end sand are generally unpopulated. At the east end, where the road hugs the sinuous shoreline, you encounter a number of pocket-size beaches in rocky coves, good for snorkeling. Don’t venture too far out, however, or you can find yourself caught in dangerous currents. The island’s east-end road ends at Halawa Valley with its unique double bay, which is not recommended for swimming.

lTo rent kayaks, SUPs, and snorkel gear, check out Molokai Outdoors (wmolokaioutdoors.com).

Hotels

Molokai appeals most to travelers who appreciate genuine Hawaiian ambience rather than swanky digs. Most properties range from adequate to funky, but the prices are significantly lower than at accommodations elsewhere in Hawaii. If you want to lollygag on the beach, choose one of the ocean-view condos or luxury home rentals in West Molokai. Central Molokai also offers seaside condominiums.

If you prefer to immerse yourself in the spirit of the island, opt for East Molokai, which has cottages in magical settings, as well as the ranch lodge at Puu O Hoku. Hotel Molokai in Kaunakakai is the closest thing you’ll find to a resort. Regardless of where you stay, note that room rates are subject to a 13.42% sales tax.

lMaui County has regulations concerning vacation rentals; to avoid disappointment, always contact the property manager or the owner and ask if the accommodations have the proper permits and are in compliance with local ordinances.

Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com. Hotel prices are the lowest cost of a standard double room in high season. Condo price categories reflect studio and one-bedroom rates.

Molokai Vacation Rentals

HOTEL | FAMILY | Vacasa Vacation Rentals handles condo rentals across the island. There is a two-night minimum on all properties. Contactless check-in is available at most properties. E130 Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai P808/460–4421 wwww.vacasa.com.

Restaurants

Molokai favors pleasant, low-key places to grab burgers, pizza, sandwiches, and plate lunches over fancy restaurants. Be that as it may, the dining scene is fun because it’s a microcosm of Hawaii’s diverse cultures. You can find locally grown vegetarian foods, spicy Filipino cuisine, or Hawaiian fish (perhaps with a Japanese influence).

Most eating establishments are on Ala Malama Street in Kaunakakai. (Paddlers Restaurant and Bar and Hiro’s Ohana Grill currently have the best dinner and ambience offerings.) If you’re heading to West Molokai for the day, be sure to stock up on provisions, as there is no place to eat there. If you are on the east end, try to stop by Manae Goods & Grindz, near mile marker 16, for good local seafood plates, burgers, and ice cream.

Restaurant reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com. Restaurant prices are the average cost of a main course at dinner or, if dinner is not served, at lunch.

Nightlife

Local nightlife consists mainly of gathering with friends and family, sipping a few cold ones, strumming ukuleles and guitars, singing old songs, and talking story. Still, there are a few ways to kick up your heels. Pick up a copy of the weekly Molokai Dispatch and see if there’s a concert, church supper, or dance. Paddlers Restaurant is a great option for live music and a full bar most nights of the week.

Shopping

Molokai has one main commercial area: Ala Malama Street in Kaunakakai. There are no department stores or shopping malls, and the clothing is typical island wear. A small number of family-run businesses defines the main drag of Maunaloa, a rural former plantation town, and there are a couple of general stores and other random shops throughout the island.

Most stores in Kaunakakai are open Monday–Saturday 10 am–6 pm, but posted hours are sometimes just a suggestion. If you find that a store isn’t open at the posted time, grab a coffee, shop at a couple of other spots, then circle back around. Almost everything shuts down on Sunday, so be sure to plan ahead.

Visitor Information

CONTACTS Destination Molokai Visitors Bureau. E3980 Airport Loop, Hoolehua P808/553–5221 wwww.gohawaii.com/islands/molokai.

West Molokai

Papohaku Beach is 17 miles west of the airport; Maunaloa is 10 miles west of the airport.

The remote beaches and rolling pastures on Molokai’s west end are presided over by Maunaloa, a dormant volcano, and a sleepy former plantation town of the same name. Papohaku Beach, the Hawaiian Islands’ second-longest white-sand beach, is one of the area’s biggest draws.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

The sometimes winding paved road through West Molokai begins at Highway 460 and ends at Kapukahehu Bay. The drive from Kaunakakai to Maunaloa is about 30 minutes.

s Sights

Kaluakoi

TOWN | Although the mid-1970s Kaluakoi Hotel and Golf Club is closed and forlorn, some nice condos and a gift shop are operating nearby. Kepuhi Beach, the white-sand beach along the coast, is worth a visit. EKaluakoi Rd., Maunaloa.

Maunaloa

TOWN | FAMILY | Established in 1923, this quiet community at the western end of the highway once housed workers for the island’s pineapple plantation. There’s not much in Maunaloa anymore, but it’s the last place you can stock up on supplies before exploring nearby beaches. You can also stop at Maunaloa’s Big Wind Kite Factory to talk with Uncle Jonathan, who has been making and flying kites here for more than three decades. EMaunaloa Hwy., Maunaloa.

; Beaches

Molokai’s west end looks across a wide channel to the island of Oahu. This crescent-shape cup of coastline holds the island’s best sandy stretches as well as its sunniest weather. All beaches are public property, even those that front developments, and most have public access roads.

Birthplace of Hula s

Tradition has it that, centuries ago, Lailai came to Molokai and lived on Puu Nana at Kaana. She brought the art of hula and taught it to the people, who kept it secret, making sure the sacred dances were performed only at Kaana. Five generations later, Laka was born into the family and learned hula from an older sister. Without her family’s consent, she then traveled throughout the Islands teaching the dance. The yearly Ka Hula Piko Festival, held in May, celebrates the birth of hula at Kaana.

Kepuhi Beach

BEACH | The Kaluakoi Hotel is closed, but you can still access its ½-mile ivory-sand beach, which is contrasted by turquoise ocean, black lava outcroppings, and magenta bougainvillea blossoms. When the sea is perfectly calm, lava ridges in the water make good snorkeling spots. With any surf at all, however, the water around these rocky places churns and foams, wiping out visibility and making it difficult to avoid being slammed into the jagged rocks. Stick to the northern part of the beach to avoid as many of the rocks as possible. If the surf is too high for snorkeling, head up the path to the bench and take it all in. Amenities: none. Best for: snorkeling; walking. EKaluakoi Rd., Maunaloa.

HPapohaku Beach

BEACH | One of the most sensational beaches in Hawaii, Papohaku is a 3-mile-long strip of white sand—so much so that Honolulu once purchased bargeloads of it to replenish the sand at Waikiki Beach. A shady beach park just inland is the site of the Ka Hula Piko Festival, held each year in May. The park is also a great sunset-facing spot that’s perfect for a rustic afternoon barbecue. A park ranger patrols the area periodically. zSwimming is not recommended, except on exceptionally calm summer days, as there’s a dangerous undertow. Amenities: showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; walking. EKaluakoi Rd., Maunaloa j2 miles south of the former Kaluakoi Hotel.

h Hotels

If you want to stay in West Molokai so you’ll have access to unspoiled beaches, you can choose from condos or vacation homes. Note that units fronting the abandoned Kaluakoi golf course present a bit of a dismal view.

Ke Nani Kai

$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | These pleasant, spacious one- and two-bedroom condos near the beach—each with a washer, dryer, and a fully equipped kitchen—have ocean views and nicely maintained tropical landscaping. Pros: on island’s secluded west end; uncrowded pool; beach across the road. Cons: amenities vary from unit to unit; far from commercial center; some units overlook abandoned golf course. DRooms from: $162 E50 Kepuhi Pl., Maunaloa P808/460–4421 wwww.vacasa.com a120 units XNo Meals.

HPaniolo Hale

$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | High on a ridge overlooking a favorite local surfing spot, Molokai’s best condominium property has mature tropical landscaping, a nice pool, and barbecue grills. Pros: close to beach; serene setting; perfect if you are an expert surfer. Cons: unit amenities vary; far from shopping; some units front an abandoned golf course. DRooms from: $167 E100 Lio Pl., Maunaloa P808/460–4221 wwww.vacasa.com a77 units XNo Meals.

b Shopping

HBig Wind Kite Factory

CRAFTS | FAMILY | This beloved community insitution creates custom-made kites you can fly or display. Appliqués are sewn onto the kites in the small workroom in the back, and designs range from Hawaiian flags to Hawaiian animals like pueo (owls)—with a little bit of mermaid fun in between. Also in stock are paper kites, mini kites, and wind socks. The adjacent gallery sells locally made crafts, Hawaiian books and CDs, jewelry, and other souvenirs. E120 Maunaloa Hwy., Maunaloa P808/552–2364 wbigwindkites.com.

Maunaloa General Store

FOOD | FAMILY | Stocking meat, produce, beverages, and dry goods, this shop is a convenient stop if you’re planning a picnic at one of the west-end beaches. It also carries ice cream, beer, and plenty of tasty snacks. E200 Maunaloa Hwy., Maunaloa P808/552–2346.

Central Molokai

Kaunakakai is 8 miles southeast of the airport.

Most residents live centrally, near the island’s one and only true town, Kaunakakai. It’s just about the only place on the island to get food and supplies—essentially, it is Molokai. Go into the stores along and around Ala Malama Street to shop and talk with the locals (note that most stores are closed on Sundays). Take your time, and you’ll really enjoy being a visitor.

lTwo major attractions on Central Molokai’s north side are closed indefinitely, though it’s worth checking ahead to see if they have reopened: Coffees of Hawaii (wwww.coffeesofhawaii.com), a 500-acre coffee plantation, and the Kalaupapa National Historical Park (wwww.nps.gov/kala).

Beach Safety ;

Unlike protected shorelines like Kaanapali on Maui, the coasts of Molokai are exposed to rough sea channels and dangerous rip currents. The ocean tends to be calmer in the morning and in summer. No matter what the time, however, always study the sea before entering. Unless the water is placid and the wave action minimal, it’s best to stay on shore, even though locals may be in the water. Don’t underestimate the power of the ocean. Protect yourself with reef-safe sunscreen and SPF clothing; cool breezes make it easy to underestimate the power of the sun as well.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Central Molokai is the hub of the island’s road system, and Kaunakakai is the commercial center. Enjoy the slow pace, and watch for kids, dogs, and people crossing the street downtown—there are no stoplights here or elsewhere on the island.

s Sights

HAlii Fishpond

RUINS | FAMILY | With its narrow rock walls arching out from the shoreline, Alii is typical of the numerous fishponds that define southern Molokai. Many were built around the 13th century under the direction of powerful alii (chiefs), who were typically the only ones allowed to eat the harvest from the ponds. This early type of aquaculture, particular to Hawaii, exemplifies the ingenuity of Native Hawaiians. One or more openings were left in the wall, where gates called makaha were installed. These gates allowed seawater and tiny fish to enter the enclosed pond but kept larger predators out. The tiny fish would then grow too big to get out. At one time there were 62 fishponds around Molokai’s coast. Visits are available only via guided tours with Ka Honua Momona International with a recommended donation of $25 per person; make online reservations. Each third Saturday of the month is a community work day, where volunteers can assist in restoration efforts. EKamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai j1/4 mile past Hotel Molokai wkahonuamomona.org.

Kalaupapa Peninsula Then and Now s

When Hansen’s disease (aka leprosy) broke out in the Hawaiian Islands in the 1840s, the Kalaupapa Peninsula, surrounded on three sides by the Pacific, was selected as the place to exile people suffering from the disease. The first patients were thrown into the sea, to swim ashore as best they could, and left with no facilities, shelter, or supplies.

In 1873, a missionary named Father Damien arrived and began to serve the peninsula’s suffering inhabitants. It was under his watch that, in 1886, a trail was created as a supply route down into the community. Father Damien died in 1889 from leprosy and was canonized as a saint by the Catholic Church in 2009. In 1888, a nun named Mother Marianne Cope moved to Kalaupapa to care for the dying priest and continue his vital work. She stayed here until her death in 1918; in 2012, she was also canonized.

Although Hansen’s disease, is no longer contagious and can be remitted, the buildings and infrastructure created by those who were exiled here still exist, and some longtime residents have chosen to stay in their homes. Today the area is Kalaupapa National Historical Park, which has been, since the onset of the pandemic, closed to commercial tours and the general public. It’s a closure designed both to protect the health of the residents and to keep visitors safe (owing to a landslide on the access trail).

There is a small airstrip on the peninsula, but, in the past, many people preferred to visit the park on hiking or mule-ride tours, entering along the trail, which traverses some of the world’s highest sea cliffs and affords spectacular views. The thrilling, 3-mile, 26-switchback trip combined with the opportunity to learn about the poignant history of the community, which once had 1,000 residents, would be a highlight of a trip to Molokai, so it’s worth checking with the national park service (wwww.nps.gov/kala) to see if the site has reopened and tours have resumed.

Regardless, be sure stop in Central Molokai’s R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill and Molokai Museum, where photography exhibits and knowledgeable docents provide insightful background on the peninsula and its residents. Taking in the view of the area from the Kalaupapa Lookout is an excellent option, as is stopping at St. John’s Mission Church, which has some information on Father Damien.

Church Row

CHURCH | Standing together along the highway are seven houses of worship with primarily Native Hawaiian congregations. Notice the unadorned, boxlike architecture so similar to missionary homes. ERte. 460, Kaunakakai j5½ miles south of airport.

Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove

NATURE SIGHT | From far away, this spot looks like a sea of coconut trees. Closer up, you can see that the tall stately palms are planted in long rows leading down to the sea. This is a remnant of one of the last surviving royal groves planted for Prince Lot, who ruled Hawaii as King Kamehameha V from 1863 until his death in 1872. lThe grove is planted on private property, so stay outside of the perimeter fence. E30 Mauna Loa Hwy., Kaunakakai.

Kaunakakai

TOWN | FAMILY | Central Molokai’s main town looks like a classic 1940s movie set. Along the its main drag is a cultural grab bag of restaurants and shops, and its friendly residents will supply directions or maybe even “talk story.” Preferred dress is shorts and a tank top, and no one typically wears anything fancier than a cotton skirt or aloha shirt. ERte. 460, 3 blocks north of Kaunakakai Wharf, Kaunakakai.

Kaunakakai Harbor

MARINA/PIER | FAMILY | Once bustling with barges exporting pineapples, these docks now host visiting boats and the regular barge from Oahu. Fishing, sailing, snorkeling, whale-watching, and scuba-diving excursions depart from its wharf, which is the longest in the state and is also a wonderful place to catch sunsets. To get here, take Kaunakakai Place, which dead-ends at the wharf. ERte. 450, at Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai wkaunakakaiharbor.com.

Molokai Plumerias

GARDEN | FAMILY | The sweet smell of plumeria surrounds you at this 10-acre grove containing thousands of these fragrant trees. Purchase a lei to go, or for $40 you’ll get a tour of the farm, then staffers will give you a basket, set you free to pick your own blossoms, and teach you how to string your own lei. Whether purchasing a lei or making your own, call for an appointment or book or order online in advance. E1342 Maunaloa Hwy., Kaunakakai P808/553–3391 wmolokaiplumerias.com A$40 CClosed weekends rReservations essential.

HPalaau State Park

STATE/PROVINCIAL PARK | FAMILY | One of the island’s few formal recreation areas, this 233-acre retreat sits at a 1,000-foot elevation. A short path through an ironwood forest leads to Kalaupapa Lookout, a magnificent overlook with views of the town of Kalaupapa, a national historical park, and the 1,664-foot-high sea cliffs protecting it. Informative plaques have facts about leprosy, Saint Damien, and the colony. The park is also the site of Kaule O Nanahoa (Phallus of Nanahoa), where women in old Hawaii would come to the rock to enhance their fertility; it is said some still do. Because the rock is a sacred site, be respectful and don’t deface the boulders. The park is well maintained, with trails, camping facilities, restrooms, and picnic tables. ERte. 470, Kualapuu jTake Hwy. 460 west from Kaunakakai and then head mauka (toward the mountains) on Hwy. 470, which ends at the park P808/567–6923 wdlnr.hawaii.gov AFree.

Post-A-Nut at Hoolehua Post Office

OTHER ATTRACTION | FAMILY | At this small, rural post office you can mail a coconut anywhere in the world. You’ll need to bring your own, and it needs to be dried, with no holes from bugs and no sprouts. You can then decorate (colored markers are provided) and address your coconut, and post office staff will affix eye-catching stamps to it from their extensive collection. Costs vary according to destination and weight; the only countries that won’t receive the charming postcards are Australia and New Zealand. E69-2 Puupeelua Ave., Hoolehua P808/553–5112 wpostanut.com CClosed weekends.

The Truth About Hansen’s Disease s

A cure for Hansen’s disease (aka leprosy) has been available since 1941. Multidrug therapy, a rapid cure, has been available since 1981.

With treatment, none of the disabilities traditionally associated with the disease need occur.

Only 5% of the world’s population is susceptible to the disease, as most people have a natural immunity to it.

There are still, however, more than 200,000 new cases of Hansen’s disease each year; most are in India.

All new cases are treated on an outpatient basis.

The term “leper” is offensive. It is appropriate to say “a person is affected by leprosy” or “by Hansen’s disease.”

Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm

FARM/RANCH | FAMILY | Molokai’s only working macadamia nut farm is open for educational tours hosted by the knowledgeable and entertaining owners. The family-owned farm takes up 1½ acres with a flourishing grove of 50 original trees that are more than 90 years old, as well as several hundred younger trees. The nuts taste delicious right out of the shell, home roasted, or dipped in macadamia-blossom honey. Look for Purdy’s sign behind Molokai High School. ELihi Pali Ave., Hoolehua P808/567–6601 wmolokai-aloha.com/macnuts AFree CClosed Sun., Mon., Wed., Fri.

HR. W. Meyer Sugar Mill and Molokai Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | FAMILY | Built in 1877, this fully restored, three-room sugar mill is a testament to Molokai’s agricultural history that’s next to the Molokai Museum and is usually included in museum tours. Several interesting machines from the past are on display, including a mule-driven cane crusher and a steam engine. The museum contains changing exhibits on Molokai’s early history. A current highlight is an incredible photography exhibit that showcases the people of and life in Kalaupapa; viewing the exhibit and speaking with docents is a great way to learn more about the community if the Kalaupapa National HIstorical Park is closed during your visit. In addition, the museum gift shop sells unique, locally made items. ERte. 470, Kualapuu j2 miles southwest of Palaau State Park P808/567–6436 wwww.kalaupapaohana.org/molokai-museum A$5 (cash only) CClosed Sun.

; Beaches

The south shore is mostly a huge, reef-walled expanse of flat saltwater edged with a thin strip of gritty sand and stones, mangrove swamps, and the amazing system of fishponds constructed by the chiefs of ancient Molokai. This is not a great area for swimming, but it is a good place to snorkel or wade in the shallows. Indeed, looking out across glassy water, you’ll see people standing on top of the sea—actually on top of the reef—casting fishing lines into the distant waves.

One Alii Beach Park

BEACH | FAMILY | Clear, close views of Maui and Lanai across the Pailolo Channel dominate One Alii Beach Park (“one” is pronounced “o-nay,” not “won”), the only well-maintained beach park on the island’s south-central shore. Molokai folks gather here for family reunions and community celebrations; the park’s tightly trimmed expanse of lawn could almost accommodate the entire island’s population. Swimming within the reef is perfectly safe, but don’t expect to catch any waves. lIt is appropriate only for Native Hawaiians to fish in the nearby One Alii pond. Amenities: playground, showers; toilets. Best for: parties; swimming. ERte. 450, Kaunakakai jeast of Hotel Molokai.

r Restaurants

HHiro’s Ohana Grill

$$$ | MODERN HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | Located in Hotel Molokai, the island’s only oceanfront restaurant is also its fanciest and best place to grab a drink or watch the game on TV. Enjoy pasta, steak, shrimp, or fish while watching the sunset and listening to live music, and don’t be surprised if the couple you saw hiking is seated at the table right next to you. Known for: shrimp pesto over linguini; live music and hula; whale-watching from your table in winter. DAverage main: $31 EHotel Molokai, 1300 Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai P808/660–3400 wwww.hirosohanagrill.com CClosed Mon. xBreakfast available on Sun.

Kamoi Snack-n-Go

$ | ICE CREAM | FAMILY | The old-school interior at this “Molokai rest stop” feels a bit like a time warp, making it the perfect place to try one (or two) of the 30 or more flavors of Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream; it’s the only place that serves it on the island. Sit in the refreshing breeze on one of the benches outside to enjoy your cone and pick up snacks, crack seed, water, and cold drinks. Known for: unique, tropical flavors of Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream; Icees; grab-n-go snacks and drinks. DAverage main: $6 E28 Kamoi St., Kaunakakai P808/553–3742 wfacebook.com/kamoisnack.

HKanemitsu Bakery & Coffee Shop

$ | CAFÉ | FAMILY | Stop at this James Beard–nominated Molokai institution for morning coffee, a loco moco (white rice, burger patty, fried egg, and brown sauce), and some Molokai bread—a sweet, pan-style white loaf that makes excellent cinnamon toast. Prices are nice, and portions are large—breakfast can easily carry you through lunch. Known for: fast and friendly service; killer cheeseburgers; poi donuts. DAverage main: $12 E79 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai P808/553–5855 wwww.facebook.com/kanemitsubakery CClosed Tues.

Manae Goods & Grindz

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | The best place to grab a snack or picnic supplies is this store, 16 miles east of Kaunakakai. It’s the only place on the east end where you can find essentials such as ice and bread, and not-so-essentials such as seafood plate lunches, bentos, burgers, shakes, and refreshing smoothies. Known for: famous macaroni salad; hurricane fries with furikake and spicy mayo; loco moco and plate lunches. DAverage main: $12 E8615 Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai P808/558–8498 CNo dinner.

Molokai Burger

$ | BURGER | FAMILY | Clean and cheery, Molokai Burger offers both drive-through and eat-in options. Often compared to In-n-Out, this is the island’s version of fast food, and the tasty burger buns and super crispy fries (including enormous waffle fries as an option) help to elevate this past a typical experience. Known for: affordable burgers; excellent fried chicken; a/c and Wi-Fi. DAverage main: $9 E20 W. Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai P808/553–3533 wwww.facebook.com/molokaiburgerHI CClosed Sun.

Molokai Pizza Cafe

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | This is a popular gathering spot for local families and a good place to pick up food for a picnic. Pizza, sandwiches, burgers, salads, pasta, ribs, and chicken are simply prepared and served without fuss, and kids keep busy at the arcade games and happy with milkshakes or soft serve for dessert. Known for: vegetarian options; linguine alfredo; friendly staff. DAverage main: $15 E15 Kaunakakai Pl., at Wharf Rd., Kaunakakai P808/553–3288.

HPaddlers Restaurant and Bar

$$ | AMERICAN | This popular standout is the perfect spot for a laid-back night out with dishes that are playful yet stay true to the island’s roots, highlighted by excellent burgers, garlic shrimp, and nightly specials. The bar has the island’s only draft beer, there’s live music and dancing most nights, and fish and produce are locally sourced whenever possible. Known for: an umami explosion in the Paddler Fries; tomato jam burger; live music at night. DAverage main: $22 E10 S. Mohala St., Kaunakakai P808/553–3300 wwww.paddlersrestaurant.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

Sundown Deli

$ | SANDWICHES | FAMILY | A Molokai staple for more than 20 years, this small deli focuses on freshly made takeout food. Sandwiches come on a half-dozen types of bread, and the homemade soups are outstanding. Known for: super-friendly owner; small but lovely breakfast menu; great for picnic fixings. DAverage main: $9 E145 Puali Pl., Kaunakakai P808/553–3713 wwww.sundowndeli.com CClosed weekends. No dinner.

h Hotels

Hotel Molokai is the closest thing to a resort that can be found on the island, with a pool, on-site dining, activities desk, and more. In addition, there are two condo properties in this area—one close to shopping and dining in Kaunakakai and the other on the way to the east end.

HHotel Molokai

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | The nicely landscaped property is dotted with Polynesian-style bungalows—many overlooking the reef and distant Lanai—and has bright guest rooms, a pretty pool, and a full-service bar that’s a popular hangout. Pros: five minutes to town; some units have kitchenettes; authentic Hawaiian entertainment. Cons: Wi-Fi is somewhat spotty; lower-priced rooms are small and plain; walls can feel thin. DRooms from: $254 E1300 Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai P808/660–3408, 877/553–5347 Reservations only whotelmolokai.com a40 rooms XNo Meals.

Molokai Shores

$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | Many of the units in this three-story condominium complex have a view of the ocean and Lanai in the distance, and there’s a chance to see whales in season. Pros: convenient location; some units upgraded; near water. Cons: Internet can be spotty in this area; units close to highway can be noisy; beach is narrow, and water is too shallow for swimming. DRooms from: $175 E1000 Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai P808/460–4421 wwww.vacasa.com a100 units XNo Meals.

Wavecrest

$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | This 5-acre oceanfront condominium complex is convenient if you want to explore the east side of the island—it’s 13 miles east of Kaunakakai, with access to a beautiful reef, excellent snorkeling, and kayaking. Pros: friendly staff; good value; nicely maintained grounds. Cons: cell and Internet service can be spotty; far from shopping; area sometimes gets windy. DRooms from: $150 E7148 Kamehameha V Hwy., near mile marker 13, Kaunakakai P808/460–4421 wwww.vacasa.com a126 units XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

Nightlife on Molokai may not be exactly what you think of for a typical night on the town, but that’s what makes it special. It’s easy to get to know locals and other travelers when you’re singing karaoke, tasting island-brewed beers, or enjoying the sounds of the ukulele at sunset.

Hiro’s Ohana Grill

BARS | The bar at Hiro’s Ohana Grill at Hotel Molokai is always a good place to enjoy a drink and beautiful views, with a rotating lineup of local musicians adding ambience to stunning sunsets. EHotel Molokai, 1300 Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai P808/660–3400 wwww.hirosohanagrill.com CClosed Mon.

HKanemitsu Bakery & Coffee Shop

GATHERING PLACE | For something truly unique, stop in at Kanemitsu Bakery on Ala Malama Street in Kaunakakai for the nightly hot bread sale (typically Tuesday–Sunday beginning at 7:30 pm, but call for most current info). Follow your nose down the alley to the little bread window. While you wait you can talk story with the locals and returning visitors who know not to miss this treat. Take some hot bread home for a late-night or early-morning snack. E79 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai P808/553–5855 wwww.facebook.com/kanemitsubakery.

HPaddlers Restaurant and Bar

BARS | If you’d like to catch a football game or UFC fight, this is the place for it. It also offers the most diverse nightlife on the island, with music and dancing most evenings. Start off with happy hour from 2 to 5 pm Monday through Saturday, then stick around for the fun. E10 Mohala St., Kaunakakai P808/553–3300 wwww.paddlersrestaurant.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

b Shopping

ARTS AND CRAFTS

Molokai Art from the Heart

CRAFTS | A small downtown shop, this arts and crafts co-op has locally made folk art like dolls, clay flowers, silk sarongs, and children’s items. The shop also carries rotating original art by more than 100 Molokai artists and giclée prints, as well as jewelry, locally produced music, and Saint Damien keepsakes. E64 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai P808/553–8018 wmolokaigallery.net CClosed Sun.

CLOTHING

HHawaii’s Finest

CLOTHING | FAMILY | Prices are fair for the contemporary aloha apparel that makes up one of Hawaii’s better-known clothing lines. This shop on the Ala Malama shopping strip fits in with the Hawaiian pride that permeates Molokai’s culture. The modern designs and bold colors adorn light cotton fabrics and accessories, and the apparel comes in a variety of sizes. This is your best option if you’re looking for matching family wear. E75B Ala Malama Ave., Kaunakakai P808/553–5403 wwww.hifinest.com CClosed Sun.

FOOD

Friendly Market Center

FOOD | The island’s best-stocked supermarket has a slogan (“Your family store on Molokai”) that is truly credible. Sun-and-surf essentials keep company with fresh produce, meat, groceries, and liquor. Locals say the food is fresher here than at the other major supermarket. E90 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai P808/553–5595 wwww.friendlymkt.com CClosed Sun.

Kualapuu Market

FOOD | This small market that’s been open since 1938 has a little bit of everything and is a good stop for provisions, drinks, and other goodies before visiting the western or northern part of the island. This multigenerational mom-and-pop store is run by the same family as Molokai Wines and Spirits. E311 Farrington Hwy., Kualapuu P808/567–6223 wkualapuumarket.wixsite.com/kmltd CClosed Sun.

Kumu Farms

FOOD | FAMILY | The stand at the most diverse working farm on Molokai is the place to purchase fresh, reasonably priced produce, herbs, and gourmet farm products. They also ship to the U.S. mainland, so if you fall in love with their offerings, you can sign up for the subscription service or randomly order papayas and pineapples when the mood strikes. E551 Huaai Rd., off Mauna Loa Hwy., near Molokai Airport, Kaunakakai P808/280–3262 wkumufarms.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

HMolokai Wines and Spirits

WINE/SPIRITS | Don’t let the name fool you—along with a surprisingly good selection of fine wines and liquors, this store also carries cheeses and snacks that are the perfect accompaniments for a sunset experience. E77 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai P808/553–5009 wkualapuumarket.wixsite.com/kmltd CClosed Sun.

GIFTS AND SOUVENIRS

HAll Things Molokai

SOUVENIRS | This vibrant shop on the Ala Malama strip sells quirky souvenirs like funny T-shirts, jewelry, and local products. They have a café counter offering sandwiches, smoothies, and salads. The owners act as informal area guides, helping visitors find their way around and arrange services that they may need. E61 Ala Malama Ave., Unit 3, Kaunakakai P808/553–3299 wallthingsmolokai.com CClosed Sun.

Imports Gift Shop

SOUVENIRS | FAMILY | At this colofrul local favorite, you’ll find soaps and lotions; a small collection of 14-karat-gold chains, rings, earrings, and bracelets; and a jumble of Hawaiian quilts, pillows, souvenirs, books, and postcards. Aloha wear, muumuu, T-shirts, and beach togs are also available if you’re clothes shopping. E82 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai P808/553–5734 wmolokaiimports.com.

East Molokai

Halawa Valley is 36 miles northeast of the airport.

On the beautifully undeveloped east end of Molokai you can find ancient fishponds, a magnificent coastline, splendid ocean views, and a fertile valley that’s been inhabited for 14 centuries. The eastern uplands are flanked by Mt. Kamakou, the island’s highest point at 4,970 feet and home to the Nature Conservancy’s Kamakou Preserve. Mist hangs over waterfall-filled valleys, and ancient lava cliffs jut out into the sea.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Driving the east end is a scenic adventure, but the road narrows and becomes curvy after the 20-mile marker. Take your time, especially in the seaside lane, and watch for oncoming traffic. Driving at night is not recommended.

s Sights

HHalawa Valley

NATURE SIGHT | FAMILY | The Solatorio ohana (family) leads hikes through the valley, the oldest recorded habitation on Molokai. It is home to two sacrificial temples and many historic sites. Inhabitants grew taro and fished from 650 until the 1960s when an enormous flood wiped out the taro patches and forced old-timers to abandon their traditional lifestyle. Now, a new generation of Hawaiians has begun the challenging task of restoring the taro fields. Much of this work involves rerouting streams to flow through carefully engineered level ponds called loi. Taro plants, with their big, dancing leaves, grow in the submerged mud of the loi, where the water is always cool and flowing. Hawaiians believe that the taro plant is their ancestor and revere it both as sustenance and as a spiritual necessity. The 3.4-mile round-trip valley hike, which goes to Moaula Falls, a 250-foot cascade, is rated intermediate to advanced and includes two moderate river crossings (so your feet will get wet). A $75 fee per adult supports restoration efforts. EEastern end of Rte. 450 P808/542–1855 whalawavalleymolokai.com A$75 rReservations essential.

Kamalo Harbor

VIEWPOINT | A natural harbor used by small cargo ships during the 19th century and a favorite fishing spot for locals, Kamalo Harbor is a quick stop worth making to take in the quiet calm and hang out with shorebirds; look for the “Drive Slow” signs just before the highway bends. This area is also the location of St. Joseph’s Church, a tiny white church built by Saint Damien of the Kalaupapa colony in the 1880s. ERte. 450, Kaunakakai j11 miles east of Kaunakakai.

Puu O Hoku Ranch

FARM/RANCH | A 14,000-acre private ranch in the highlands of East Molokai, Puu O Hoku was developed in the 1930s by wealthy industrialist Paul Fagan. Route 450 ambles right through this rural treasure with its pastures and grazing horses and cattle. As you drive slowly along, enjoy the splendid views of Maui and Lanai. The small island off the coast is Mokuhooniki, a favorite spot among visiting humpback whales and nesting seabirds. The ranch is also a retreat center and organic farm; the 12-bedroom lodge can be rented out by groups or large families. ERte. 450, mile marker 25, Kaunakakai j25 miles east of Kaunakakai P808/558–8109 wpuuohoku.com.

St. Joseph’s Mission Church

CHURCH | At this small, white church, a quick stop off the highway, you can learn more about Father Damien and his work. It’s a state historic site and place of pilgrimage. The door is often open; if it is, slip inside, sign the guest book, and make a donation. The congregation keeps the church in beautiful condition. EKamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai P808/558–0109 wdamienchurchmolokai.org/wp.

; Beaches

The east end unfolds as a coastal drive with turnouts for tiny cove beaches—good places for snorkeling, shore fishing, or scuba exploring (with a partner, of course). Rocky little Mokuhooniki Island marks the eastern point of the Molokai and serves as a nursery for humpback whales in winter, nesting seabirds in spring, and hammerhead sharks in the fall. The road loops around the east end, then descends and ends at Halawa Valley.

Halawa Beach Park

BEACH | The vigorous water that gouged the steep, spectacular Halawa Valley also carved out two adjacent bays. Accumulations of coarse sand and river rock have created some protected pools that are good for wading or floating around. You might see surfers, but it’s not wise to entrust your safety to the turbulent open ocean along this coast. Most people come here to hang out and absorb the beauty of Halawa Valley. The valley itself is private property, so do not wander without a guide. Amenities: toilets. Best for: solitude. EEnd of Rte. 450, Kaunakakai.

Waialua Beach Park

BEACH | Also known as Twenty Mile Beach, this arched stretch of sand leads to one of the most popular snorkeling spots on the island. The water here, protected by the flanks of the little bay, is often so clear and shallow that even from land you can watch fish swimming among the coral heads. Watch out for traffic when you enter the highway. lThis is a pleasant place to stop on the drive around the east end. Amenities: none. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. ERte. 450 near mile marker 20.

h Hotels

Two unique lodging options await on the remote, far east end of the island. Dunbar Beachfront Cottages, which lives up to its name as it’s just steps from the sand, is great for families. Puu O Hoku Ranch, an active ranch and retreat facility, offers on-site ocean and waterfall views.

HDunbar Beachfront Cottages

$$$ | HOUSE | FAMILY | Perfect for a comfortable base in the country, think of these two oceanfront, plantation-style cottages as your own private beach home on Molokai’s east end; each has a full kitchen, washer and dryer, and ocean-facing lanai. Pros: complete privacy; well-stocked kitchens; convenient location to east end beaches. Cons: isolated and far from town; very popular, so bookings can be hard to come by; three-night minimum stay and additional cleaning fee. DRooms from: $270 E9750 Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai jJust past mile marker 18 P808/336–0761 wwww.molokaibeachfrontcottages.com a2 cottages XNo Meals.

Puu O Hoku Ranch

$$$$ | B&B/INN | Set amid 14,000 acres of forest and pastureland, this ranch is a great place to get away from it all, with oceanview accommodations that include two, romantic, two-bedroom cottages that are perfect for couples and a lodge that can accommodate up to 22 guests, with 12 bedrooms, 9 bathrooms, and a large kitchen. Pros: on-site store with unique gifts and treats; authentic working ranch; great hiking. Cons: lodge must be booked in its entirety (mostly used for retreats); remote and road to property is narrow and winding; very high cleaning fee. DRooms from: $375 ERte. 450 near mile marker 25, Kaunakakai P808/558–8109 wpuuohoku.com a3 units XNo Meals.

Activities

Molokai’s shoreline topography limits opportunities for water sports. Sea cliffs dominate the north shore; the south shore is largely encased by a huge, taming reef. zOpen-sea access at west-end and east-end beaches should only be attempted by experienced ocean swimmers, and even then with caution as seas are rough, especially in winter.

Generally speaking, there’s no one around—certainly not lifeguards—if you are in need of assistance. For this reason, guided excursions are recommended. At the very least, be sure to ask for advice from outfitters or residents. Two kinds of water activities predominate: kayaking within the reef area and open-sea excursions on charter boats, most of which tie up at Kaunakakai Wharf.

Activity vendors in Kaunakakai are a good source of information on outdoor adventures on Molokai. For a mellow round of golf, head to the island’s only golf course, Ironwood Hills, where you’ll likely share the greens with local residents. Molokai’s steep and uncultivated terrain offers excellent hikes and some stellar views. Although the island is largely wild, most land is privately owned, so get permission before hiking or go with a guide.

Biking

Cyclists who like to eat up the miles love Molokai, because its few roads are long, straight, and extremely rural. You can really go for it—there are no traffic lights and (most of the time) no traffic.

Molokai Bicycle

BIKING | FAMILY | Here you can rent mountain and road bikes by the day or longer, and car racks, helmet, and other supplies are included in the rates. Bike trailers (for your drinks cooler, perhaps), including doubles for the kids, are also available, as are maps and information on biking and hiking. In addition, the owner will provide free pickup and drop-off at three island locales; there’s a $30 fee for airport pickup/drop-off. E80 Mohala St., Kaunakakai P808/553–5740 wmauimolokaibicycle.com ABikes from $25 to $45 per day; bike trailers from $12 to $25 per day.

Deep-Sea Fishing

For Molokai people, as in days of yore, the ocean is more of a larder than a playground. It’s common to see residents fishing along the shoreline or atop South Shore Reef, using poles or lines. Deep-sea fishing by charter boat is a great Molokai adventure. The sea channels here, though often rough and windy, provide gorgeous views of several islands.

Big fish are plentiful in these waters, especially mahimahi (dolphinfish), marlin, and various kinds of tuna. Generally speaking, boat captains will customize the outing to your interests, share a lot of information about the island, and let you keep some or all of your catch.

BOATS AND CHARTERS

Alyce C.

FISHING | This 31-foot, six-passenger cruiser runs excellent sportfishing excursions in the capable hands of Captain Joe. Full-day, ¾-day, ½-day, and full around-the-island trips are available, and gear is provided. It’s a rare day when you don’t snag at least one memorable fish. Whale-watching trips are also offered. EKaunakakai Wharf, Kaunakakai Pl., Kaunakakai P808/558–8377 walycecsportfishing.com AFrom $500.

Molokai Fishing

FISHING | Trim and speedy, the 27-foot flybridge boat named Ahi offers four-, six-, and eight-hour sportfishing excursions, either near-shore or deep-sea. Skipper Mike Holmes also provides sunset cruises, charter transportation, scuba and snorkeling excursions, and winter whale-watching trips. EKaunakakai Wharf, Kaunakakai Pl., Kaunakakai P808/336–0047 wwww.molokaifishing.com AFrom $450.

Molokai Action Adventures

FISHING | Walter Naki has fished all over the globe, and he will create customized fishing expeditions and gladly share his knowledge. He will also take you to remote beaches for a day of swimming. If you want to explore the north side under the great sea cliffs, this is the way to go. His 21-foot Boston Whaler is usually seen in the east end at the mouth of Halawa Valley. EKaunakakai P808/558–8184 AFrom $450.

EQUIPMENT

HMolokai Fish & Dive

FISHING | FAMILY | If you’d like to try your hand at fishing, you can rent or buy equipment, book a trip, and ask for advice from the friendly staff here. The shop also offers snorkel, scuba, and whale-watching tours and is a good place to pick up original-design Molokai T-shirts, water sandals, high-quality sunglasses, wide-brimmed hats, books, and gifts. E53 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai P808/553–5926 wmolokaifishanddive.com.

Golf

Molokai is not a prime golf destination, but the sole nine-hole course makes for a pleasant afternoon.

Ironwood Hills Golf Course

GOLF | Like other nine-hole plantation-era courses, Ironwood Hills is in a prime spot, with basic fairways and not always manicured greens. It helps if you like to play laid-back golf with locals and can handle occasionally rugged conditions. On the plus side, most holes offer views of the ocean, as well of Oahu’s peaks and Molokai’s sea cliffs. Fairways are kukuya grass and run through pine, ironwood, and eucalyptus trees. Clubs are rented on the honor system; there’s not always someone around to assist you, and you should bring your own water. Access is via a bumpy, unpaved road. EKalae Hwy., Kualapuu P808/567–6000 A$20–$36 for 9 holes J9 holes, 3,088 yards, par 34.

Hiking

Rural and rugged, Molokai is an excellent place for hiking. Roads and developments are few. The island is steep, so hikes often combine spectacular views with hearty physical exertion. Because the island is small, you can come away with the feeling of really knowing the place. And you won’t see many other people around. lMuch of what may look like deserted land is private property, so be careful not to trespass—seek permission or use an authorized guide.

GOING WITH A GUIDE

HHalawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike

HIKING & WALKING | FAMILY | This gorgeous, steep-walled valley was carved by two rivers and is rich in history. Site of the earliest Polynesian settlement on Molokai, Halawa is a sustained island culture with its ingeniously designed loi, or taro fields. Because of a tsunami in 1948 and changing cultural conditions in the 1960s, the valley was largely abandoned. The Solatorio ohana (family) is restoring the loi and taking visitors on guided hikes through the valley, which includes two of Molokai’s luakini heiau (sacred temples), many historic sites, and the trail to Moaula Falls, a 250-foot cascade. Bring water, food, a hookupu (small gift or offering), insect repellent, and wear sturdy shoes that can get wet. The 3½-mile round-trip hike is rated intermediate to advanced and includes two moderate river crossings. E14777 Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai jGuide will meet you at the Halawa Beach Park pavilion P808/542–1855 whalawavalleymolokai.com A$75.

Kayaking

Molokai’s south shore is enclosed by the largest reef system in the United States—an area of shallow, protected sea that stretches over 30 miles. This reef gives inexperienced paddlers an unusually safe, calm environment for shoreline exploring.

zOutside the reef, Molokai waters are often rough, and strong winds can blow you out to sea. Kayakers out here should be strong, experienced, and cautious.

BEST SPOTS

South Shore Reef

KAYAKING | This reef’s area is superb for flat-water kayaking any day of the year. Get out in the morning before the wind picks up and paddle east, exploring the ancient Hawaiian fishponds. When you turn around, the wind will usually give you a push home. EKaunakakai.

EQUIPMENT, LESSONS, AND TOURS

HMolokai Outdoors

KAYAKING | This well-established company offers guided kayak and paddleboard tours featuring downwind runs along Molokai’s southern coast. Sunrise and sunset outings are options, too, as is equipment rental if you prefer to paddle solo. E1529 Kamehameha V Hwy, Kaunakakai jinside Hotel Molokai P808/633–8700, 855/208–0811 wmolokai-outdoors.com AFrom $95.

Scuba Diving

Molokai Fish & Dive is the only PADI-certified dive company on Molokai and offers opportunities for beginner through advanced divers. Shoreline access for divers is extremely limited, even nonexistent in winter. Boat diving is the way to go. Without guidance, visiting divers can easily find themselves in risky situations with wicked currents. Proper guidance, however, opens an undersea world rarely seen.

Snorkeling

Snorkeling is particularly nice in Molokai with its beautiful fringed reef that hasn’t been decimated by sunscreen and global warming. During the times when swimming is safe—mainly in summer—just about every beach on Molokai offers good snorkeling along the lava outcroppings in the island’s clean and pristine waters. Although rough in winter, Kepuhi Beach is a prime spot in summer. Certain spots inside the South Shore Reef are also worth checking out.

BEST SPOTS

In summer, Kepuhi Beach on Molokai’s west end offers excellent snorkeling opportunities. The ½-mile-long stretch has plenty of rocky nooks that swirl with sea life. Take Kaluakoi Road all the way to the west end, park at the now-closed Kaluakoi Resort, and walk to the beach. zAvoid Kepuhi Beach in winter, as the sea is rough here.

At Waialua Beach Park, on Molokai’s east end, you’ll find a thin curve of sand that rims a sheltered little bay loaded with coral heads and aquatic life. The water here is shallow—sometimes so shallow that you bump into the underwater landscape—and it’s crystal clear. Pull off the road near mile marker 20.

EQUIPMENT AND TOURS

All the charter boats carry snorkel gear and include dive stops.

Molokai Fish & Dive

SNORKELING | FAMILY | Climb aboard a 31-foot twin-hull PowerCat for a snorkeling trip to Molokai’s pristine barrier reef. Two- to three-hour trips include stops at two snorkel sites, a snorkel lesson, equipment, water, and soft drinks. E53 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai P808/553–5926 wmolokaifishanddive.com AFrom $119 per person.

Molokai Fishing

SNORKELING | FAMILY | Mike Holmes, captain of the 27-foot Ahi, knows the island waters intimately, likes to have fun, and is willing to arrange any type of excursion—for example, one dedicated entirely to snorkeling. His two-hour snorkel trips leave early in the morning and explore rarely seen fish and turtle sites outside the reef. EKaunakakai Wharf, Kaunakakai Pl., Kaunakakai P808/336–0047 wwww.molokaifishing.com AFrom $75 per person.

Spas

Molokai Lomi Massage

SPA | Allana Noury of Molokai Lomi Massage has studied natural medicine for nearly 40 years and is a licensed massage therapist, master herbalist, and master iridologist. She will come to your hotel or condo by appointment. EKaunakakai P808/553–8034 wmolokaimassage.com.

Whale-Watching

Although Maui gets all the credit for the local wintering humpback whale population, the big cetaceans also visit Molokai December–April. Mokuhooniki Island at the east end serves as a whale nursery and courting ground, and the whales pass back and forth along the south shore. This being Molokai, whale-watching here will never involve floating amid a group of boats all ogling the same whale.

BOATS AND CHARTERS

Alyce C.

WHALE-WATCHING | FAMILY | Although this six-passenger sportfishing boat is usually busy hooking mahimahi (dolphinfish) and marlin, the captain will gladly take you on an excursion to admire the humpback whales or other points of interest around the Island. lThe price is based on the length of the trip: 1/2 day, 3/4 day, full day, or round-island trips. EKaunakakai Wharf, Kaunakakai Pl., Kaunakakai P808/558–8377 walycecsportfishing.com.

Ama Lua and Coral Queen

WHALE-WATCHING | FAMILY | Molokai Fish & Dive offers two boats for whale-watching. The Ama Lua is a 31-foot dive boat that holds up to 12 passengers, while the Coral Queen is a 38-footer that holds up to 25 passengers. On both boats, the crew is respectful of the whales and the laws that protect them. A two-hour whale-watching trip departs from Kaunakakai Wharf at 7 am daily (as long as minimum passenger requirements are met) from December to April. EMolokai Fish & Dive, 53 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai P808/553–5926 wmolokaifishanddive.com AFrom $109.

Molokai Fishing

WHALE-WATCHING | FAMILY | The Ahi, a flybridge sportfishing boat, takes you on two-hour whale-watching trips in the morning, December to April. lNo food or drink is provided. EKaunakakai Wharf, Kaunakakai Pl., Kaunakakai P808/336–0047 wwww.molokaifishing.com AFrom $75 per person.

WELCOME TO LANAI

TOP REASONS TO GO

Seclusion and serenity: Lanai is small; local motion is slow motion. Get into the spirit, and go home rested.

Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods): Walk amid the eerie red-rock spires at this Hawaiian sacred spot. The ocean views are magnificent, too; sunset is a good time to visit.

Diving at Cathedrals: Explore underwater pinnacle formations and mysterious caverns illuminated by shimmering rays of light.

Dole Park: Hang out in the shade of the Cook pines in Lanai City, and talk story with the locals for a taste of old-time Hawaii.

Hulopoe Beach: This beach may have it all—good swimming, a shady park for perfect picnicking, great reefs for snorkeling, and—if you’re lucky—schools of spinner dolphins.

Cool and serene, Upcountry is graced by historic Lanai City, towering Cook pine trees, and misty mountain vistas. Six miles north of Lanai City, Keahiakawelo (nicknamed “Garden of the Gods”) is a stunning rocky plateau. On happening Manele Bay, you can picnic, swim, boat, or undertake off-island excursions. Windward Lanai is the long white-sand beach at the base of Lanaihale. Now uninhabited, it was once occupied by Hawaiian fishing villages and a sugarcane plantation.

Lanai City. Quaint and quiet, this historic plantation town is home to most of the island’s residents, restaurants, shops, and other businesses. Dole Park, with its stately Cook pines, sits in the middle of the action.

Manele Bay. Along the more developed beach side of the island, you’ll find Manele Harbor, the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, the iconic Puu Pehe, and the golden sands of Hulopoe Beach.

Windward Lanai. A 4WD vechicle is a must to explore the island’s mostly deserted eastern shore.

With no traffic or traffic lights and miles of open space, Lanai seems suspended in time. Mostly privately owned, the smallest inhabited island in Hawaii is truly a place where you can slow down and enjoy both serenity and world-class comforts.

Though it may seem a world away, the 141-square-mile island is only separated from Maui and Molokai by two narrow channels and is easily accessed by commercial ferry from Maui. Most of its 3,000 or so residents live Upcountry, in Lanai City.

Lanai was sparsely populated for centuries. Many of its earliest inhabitants lived along the shore, sustaining themselves by fishing. Others lived in the Upcountry, near seasonal water sources, and they traded their produce for seafood. Over time, however, the high chiefs sold off the land bit by bit to foreign settlers. By 1910, the island was owned by the Gay family.

In 1922, the Hawaiian Pineapple Company purchased Lanai for $1.1 million, built Lanai City, opened the commercial harbor, and laid out pineapple fields. Workers came from overseas to toil at what quickly became the world’s largest pineapple plantation. Longtime residents are a mix of just about everything: Hawaiian, Filipino, Chinese, German, Portuguese, Japanese, French, Puerto Rican, English, Norwegian—you name it. Today, the local dialect is a rich, complicated mix of words that reflects this ethnic diversity.

Animals and birds were imported for hunting. Exotic flora was also introduced, including African kiawe (mesquite) trees; Cook pines, which were planted to catch the rain; and eucalyptus, which was used to create windbreaks and anchor the blowing soil. Although native plants like aalii and ilima are still found in uncultivated areas, now-abandoned pineapple fields are overgrown with drought-resistant grasses, Christmas berry, and lantana. Axis deer from India dominate the ridges, and wild turkeys lumber around resort grounds.

When the plantation closed in 1992, resorts opened their doors, newcomers arrived, homes were built, and other ways of life set in. Today, 98% of the island is owned by billionaire Larry Ellison. Vast areas remain untouched, and great views abound. Whales can be seen November through May, and a family of resident spinner dolphins rests and fishes regularly in Hulopoe Bay.

Indeed, despite its fancy resorts, Lanai still has that languid Hawaii feel. Here, an afternoon stroll in historic Lanai City not only offers shopping and dining opportunities, but also the chance to mingle with locals who talk story in front of Dole Park shops or from their pickups parked on the road while kids ride bikes in colorful impromptu parades.

Planning

When to Go

Lanai has an ideal climate year-round, hot and sunny at the sea and a few delicious degrees cooler Upcountry, where the nights and mornings can be almost chilly as fog or harsh trade winds settle in. Winter months are known for slightly rougher weather—periodic rain showers, occasional storms, and higher surf.

Because higher mountains on Maui capture the trade-wind clouds, Lanai receives little rainfall and has a near-desert ecology. Consider the wind direction when planning your day. If it’s blowing a gale on the windward beaches, head for the beach at Hulopoe or check out Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods). Overcast days, when the wind stops or comes lightly from the southwest, are common in whale season. At that time, try a whale-watching trip or visit the windward beaches.

Whales are seen off Lanai’s shores November–May (peak season January–March). A Pineapple Festival on the July 4 Saturday in Dole Park features traditional entertainment, a pineapple-eating contest, and fireworks. Buddhists hold their annual outdoor Obon Festival, honoring departed ancestors with joyous dancing, local food, and drumming, in early July. During hunting-season weekends, mid-February–mid-May and mid-July–mid-October, watch out for hunters on dirt roads even though there are designated safety zones. On Sunday, many shops and restaurants have limited hours or are closed altogether.

Getting Here and Around

AIR

Lanai’s only airport is just south of Lanai City. It’s small and quiet, with strictly the basics—so no restaurants or shopping—but there’s air-conditioning, and the Wi-Fi works surprisingly well.

Mokulele Airlines is the only commercial airline routinely serving Lanai City. Direct flights are available from Oahu; if you’re flying to Lanai from any other Hawaiian Island, you’ll make a stop in Kahului. Guests of the Four Seasons Resort Lanai can arrange private charters on Lanai Air. The resort also provides all its guests with shuttle bus service from the airport or ferry dock.

AIRLINE CONTACTS Mokulele Airlines. ELanai Ave., Lanai City P866/260–7070 toll free, 808/495-4188 wmokuleleairlines.com.

AIRPORT CONTACTS Lanai Airport (LNY). ELanai Ave., Lanai City P808/565–7942 wairports.hawaii.gov/lny.

CAR

Lanai has only 30 miles of paved roads, and its main road, Highway 440, refers to both Kaumalapau Highway and Manele Road. Keomuku Highway starts just past the Sensei Lanai resort and runs northeast to the dirt road that goes to Kaiolohia (aka Shipwreck Beach) and Lopa Beach. Manele Road (Highway 440) runs south down to Manele Bay, the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, and Hulopoe Beach. Kaumalapau Highway (also Highway 440) heads west to Kaumalapau Harbor.

The rest of your driving takes place on bumpy dusty roads that are unpaved and unmarked. Driving in thick mud is not recommended, and the rental agency will charge a stiff cleaning fee. Watch out for blind curves on narrow roads. Take a map, be sure you have a full tank, and bring a snack and plenty of water (including water to rinse off at the beaches, as many of the remote beaches have no showers or other facilities). It’s always good to carry a cell phone, too.

Renting a four-wheel-drive vehicle is expensive but almost essential if you’d like to explore beyond the resorts and Lanai City. Make reservations far in advance of your trip, because Lanai’s fleet of vehicles is limited. Ask the rental agency or your hotel’s concierge about road conditions before you set out.

Stop from time to time to find landmarks and gauge your progress. Never drive or walk to the edge of lava cliffs, as rock can give way under you. Remember that, as on other Hawaiian Islands, directions are often given as mauka (toward the mountains) and makai (toward the ocean).

If you’re visiting for the day, Rabaca’s Limousine Service or Lanai Taxi will take you wherever you want to go. Advance reservations are required.

CONTACT Rabaca’s Limousine Service. E552 Alapa St., Lanai City P808/559–0230. Lanai Taxi. ELanai City P808/649–0808, 808/649–8330 for private tours wwww.facebook.com/lanaitaxi.

FERRY

Ferries operated by Expeditions cross the channel multiple times daily between Maalaea Harbor on Maui and Manele Small Boat Harbor on Lanai. The crossing takes 45 minutes and costs $30 per person each way. Be warned: passage can be rough, especially in winter.

CONTACT Expeditions. E101 Maalaea Boat Harbor Rd., Wailuku P808/661–3756, 800/695–2624 toll free wgo-lanai.com.

SHUTTLE

The high-end resorts provide guests with free luxury shuttle service to/from the harbor or the airport.

Beaches

Lanai offers miles of secluded white-sand beaches on its windward side, plus the moderately developed Hulopoe Beach, which is adjacent to the Four Seasons Resort Lanai. Hulopoe is accessible by car or hotel shuttle bus; to reach the windward beaches you need a 4WD vehicle.

Reef, rocks, and coral make swimming on the windward side problematic, but it’s fun to splash around in the shallow water. Also, expect debris on the windward beaches due to the Pacific convergence of ocean currents. Driving on the beach itself is illegal and can be dangerous.

Hotels

The good news is that you’re sure to escape the crowds on this quaint island. The bad news is that Lanai has limited accommodation options, including the pricey Four Seasons Resort Lanai and the (relatively speaking) affordable Hotel Lanai.

Lanai’s dining options range from simple local eateries featuring plate lunches, poke (raw fish) bowls, pizza, and pasta to gourmet resort restaurants where dishes benefit from the skills of well-regarded chefs. The upscale menus at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, for instance, encompass European- and Asian-inspired cuisine as well as innovative preparations of international favorites and vegetarian dishes.

Regardless of where you eat, though, the cuisine draws on the fresh bounty provided by local farmers and fishermen. lNote that smaller, independently owned restaurants sometimes close early and might be shuttered entirely on Sunday.

FRestaurant and hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com. Restaurant prices are the average cost of a main course at dinner, or if dinner is not served, at lunch. Hotel prices are the lowest cost of a standard double room in high season. Condo price categories reflect studio and one-bedroom rates.

Lanai City

3 miles northeast of the airport.

A tidy plantation town, built in 1924 by Jim Dole to accommodate workers for his pineapple business, Lanai City is home to old-time residents, resort workers, and second-home owners. Charming plantation-era shops and restaurants, which are kept up-to-date with fresh paint jobs and landscaping, make it a worthy place to spend a lazy afternoon.

You can easily explore Lanai City on foot. In its center, Dole Park is surrounded by small shops and restaurants and is a great spot for sitting, strolling, and talking story. Try a picnic lunch in the park and visit the Lanai Culture & Heritage Center in the Old Dole Administration Building to glimpse this island’s rich past, purchase historical publications and maps, and get directions to anywhere on the island.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Lanai City serves as the island’s hub, with roads leading to Manele Bay, Kaumalapau Harbor, and windward Lanai. Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods) is usually possible to visit by car, but beyond that you will need a 4WD vehicle.

s Sights

Kanepuu Preserve

NATURE PRESERVE | Hawaiian sandalwood, olive, and ebony trees characterize Hawaii’s largest example of a rare native dryland forest. Thanks to the efforts of volunteers at the Nature Conservancy and a native Hawaiian land trust, the 590-acre remnant forest is protected from the axis deer and mouflon sheep that graze on the land beyond its fence. More than 45 native plant species can be seen here. A short, self-guided loop trail, with eight signs illustrated by local artist Wendell Kahoohalahala, reveals this ecosystem’s beauty and the challenges it faces. The reserve is adjacent to Kane Puu, a sacred hill dedicated to the Hawaiian god of water and vegetation. EPolihua Tr., Lanai City j4.8 miles north of Lanai City wwww.nature.org.

HKeahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods)

NATURE SIGHT | This preternatural plateau is scattered with boulders of different sizes, shapes, and colors, the products of a million years of wind erosion. Time your visit for sunset, when the rocks begin to glow—from rich red to purple—and the fiery globe sinks to the horizon. Magnificent views of the Pacific Ocean, Molokai, and, on clear days, Oahu, provide the perfect backdrop for photographs.

The ancient Hawaiians shunned Lanai for hundreds of years, believing the island was the inviolable home of spirits. Standing beside the oxide-red rock spires of this strange raw landscape, you might be tempted to believe the same. This lunar savanna still has a decidedly eerie edge, but the shadows disappearing on the horizon are those of mouflon sheep and axis deer, not the fearsome spirits of lore. According to tradition, Kawelo, a Hawaiian priest, kept a perpetual fire burning on an altar here, in sight of the island of Molokai. As long as the fire burned, prosperity was assured for the people of Lanai. Kawelo was killed by a rival priest on Molokai, and the fire went out. “Keahiakawelo” means the “fire of Kawelo.” EOff Polihua Rd., Lanai City j6 miles north of Lanai City.

Legendary Lanai s

Hawaiians believe that places have mana (spiritual power), and Lanai is no exception. Indeed, it has long had a reputation for being haunted including, according to the lore, by “cannibal spirits.” Even if you’re a skeptic, you will find that the island has some truly haunting places, as well as many enchanting legends.

Tradition has it, for instance, that Puu Pehe (an offshore sea stack) was a child who spoke from the womb, demanding awa root. A later story claims it is the grave of a woman drowned in a cave at the nearby cliffs.

At Kamoa, people claim to have heard the disembodied squawks of a phantom chicken. Pohaku O is a rock that reportedly calls out at twilight. There are also tales of spots where cars mysteriously stall, and strange lights are seen at night. Believe it—or not.

HLanai Cat Sanctuary

ANIMAL SANCTUARY | FAMILY | This sanctuary near Lanai’s airport is a popular destination for locals and visitors (including day trippers) alike. For a small, optional donation you can while away the afternoon surrounded by the sanctuary’s more than 600 cats—indulging in cuddles and giving out treats. All of the felines in the visitation areas are island rescues and are spayed/neutered, vaccinated, and mostly socialized. For those who fall in love and want to adopt, the sanctuary can help facilitate the process. E1 Kaupili Rd., Lanai City P808/215–9066 wlanaicatsanctuary.org.

HLanai Culture & Heritage Center

HISTORY MUSEUM | FAMILY | At this small and carefully arranged museum, displays of plantation-era clothing and tools, ranch memorabilia, old maps, precious feather lei, poi pounders, photographs, family portraits, and other artifacts and memorabilia give you insight on the history of the island and its people. Postcards, maps, books, and pamphlets are for sale. The friendly staff can provide information on and directions to the island’s historical sites, making this the best place to start your explorations. lThe Heritage Center’s Lanai Guide app is a trove of information—both practical and historical—on the island’s sites. E730 Lanai Ave., Lanai City P808/565–7177 wwww.lanaichc.org AFree CClosed Sat. and Sun.

Norfolk Pine

NATURE SIGHT | Considered the “mother” of all the pines on the island, this 160-foot-tall tree was planted here, at the former site of the ranch manager’s house, in 1875. Almost 30 years later, George Munro, the manager, observed how, in foggy weather, water collected on and dripped off its foliage. This led Munro to supervise the planting of Cook pines along the ridge of Lanaihale and throughout the town in order to add to the island’s water supply. This majestic tree is just in front of the Sensei Lanai resort. ESensei Lanai, 1 Keomuku Hwy., Lanai City.

; Beaches

Polihua Beach

BEACH | Draws of this often-deserted beach include long, wide stretches of white sand, where sea turtles lay their eggs; unobstructed views of Molokai; and, at the northern end, a rocky lava cliff with some interesting tide pools. Strong currents and a sudden drop in the ocean floor make it very dangerous to swim here; at times, strong trade winds make it uncomfortable to sunbathe or walk here; and a dirt access road with pockets of deep sand makes it hard to get here in dry weather and impossible to do so when it rains. If you do manage to reach it in your 4WD vehicle, do not endanger the sea turtles by driving on the beach. Note, too, that thirsty wild bees sometimes gather around cars. To get rid of them, put out water some distance away and wait. The beach is 11 miles north of Lanai City; turn right onto the marked dirt road past Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods). Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; sunrise; walking. EEast end of Polihua Rd., Lanai City.

r Restaurants

Blue Ginger Café

$ | ECLECTIC | FAMILY | Townspeople parade by outdoor tables, and local paintings and photos line interior walls at this cheery restaurant, a Lanai City institution that offers simply prepared, consistently tasty food. Breakfast options include the Lanai omelet with Portuguese sausage, lunch selections range from burgers—with house-made patties and buns—to saimin noodles, and, for dinner, you can sample generous portions of shrimp tempura or roasted pork. Known for: authentic local cuisine; comfort food; fresh-baked bread and pastries. DAverage main: $12 E409 7th St., Lanai City P808/565–6363 wbluegingercafelanai.com cNo credit cards.

Coffee Works

$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | A block from Dole Park, this Northern California–style café offers an umbrella-covered deck where you can sip cappuccinos and get in tune with the slow pace of life. Bagels with lox, deli sandwiches, and pastries are served, while blended espresso shakes and gourmet ice cream complete the coffeehouse vibe. Known for: great place to vibe with locals; hearty breakfast burritos; varied drink selection. DAverage main: $12 E604 Ilima St., Lanai City P808/565–6962 wwww.coffeeworkshawaii.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No dinner.

HGanotisi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine

$ | ASIAN FUSION | At one of Lanai’s newest restaurants, casual fare is made with tons of love, and although dishes lean heavily toward the salty, sweet, and sour tastes represented by Filipino fare, specials highlight a dynamic range of Pacific flavors and cuisines. The menu includes plate lunches, salads, burgers, and an outstanding chicken sandwich. Known for: crispy fries served a variety of ways; tasty sweets including milk tea, halo halo, and fried Oreos; salad made from local Sensei Farms produce. DAverage main: $16 E408 8th St., Lanai City P808/565–7120 wwww.facebook.com/GanotisisPacificRimCuisine CClosed Mon.

HLanai City Bar & Grill

$$$ | HAWAIIAN | This chic bistro-style eatery serves delicious dishes made with line-caught fish and other ultra-fresh ingredients, including some—like locally harvested axis deer—that you won’t find anywhere else. Options range from pasta and burgers to a raw bar and other seafood to heartier fare like duck confit or pork chops. Known for: beautifully curated wine menu; hearts-of-palm salad with lilikoi (passion fruit) dressing; excellent happy hour. DAverage main: $27 EHotel Lanai, 828 Lanai Ave., Lanai City P808/565–7212 wwww.lanaicitybarandgrill.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.

Lanai Wai

$ | HAWAIIAN | Locals and visitors in the know are hip to Lanai’s best-kept food secret, namely, the tasty bowls, smoothies, and juices from the Lanai Wai pop-up. Sometimes it serves from a food truck, sometimes it appears along a walking route near Sensei Resort, and sometimes you have to text to find out where to pick up your order (contactless options are available). Known for: Koele Bowl (a green-smoothie bowl); sourcing as many ingredients locally as possible; lilikoi (passion fruit) dressing. DAverage main: $15 ELanai City P808/639–1482 for texts wwww.instagram.com/lanaiwai.

No Ka Oi Grindz Lanai

$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | A local favorite, this lunchroom-style café has picnic tables in the landscaped front yard where you can watch the town drive by, plus a few more tables in the no-frills interior. The menu includes local favorites like kimchi fried rice, as well as massive plate lunches and daily specials. Known for: local comfort food; large portions; reasonable prices. DAverage main: $10 E335 9th St., Lanai City P808/565–9413.

Pele’s Other Garden

$$ | ITALIAN | Small and colorful, Pele’s is a deli and restaurant all in one. For lunch, it serves sandwiches and daily hot specials to satisfy hearty appetites, and at night, it’s transformed into a busy bistro, with an intimate back-room bar where entertainers often drop in for impromptu jam sessions. Known for: tasty thin-crust pizzas; quaint atmosphere; good beer and wine selection. DAverage main: $22 E811 Houston St., Lanai City P808/565–9628 wpelesothergarden.com/peles CClosed Sat. and Sun.

h Hotels

Hotel Lanai

$$$$ | HOTEL | Built in 1923 to house visiting pineapple-industry executives, this historic inn is like new following a massive renovation that supplied state-of-the-art amenities to complement a modern design while keeping a dash of vintage charm. Pros: porches attached to several rooms; walking distance to town; bathrooms include Toto bidet toilets. Cons: far from beach; can be very noisy; small rooms. DRooms from: $355 E828 Lanai Ave., Lanai City P800/795–7211 toll free, 808/565–7211 wwww.hotellanai.com a10 rooms XFree Breakfast.

HSensei Lanai, a Four Seasons Resort

$$$$ | RESORT | At this exclusive wellness retreat—the pinnacle of Hawaii luxury—you can create custom itineraries and experiences that might include spa services, wellness activities, and various island excursions. Pros: walking distance to Lanai City; unique private spa hales; onsen outdoor baths. Cons: climate can become cool and foggy; not in the price range of the average traveler; guests must be age 16+. DRooms from: $1,080 E1 Keomoku Hwy., Lanai City P808/565–2000, 800/819–5053 toll free wwww.fourseasons.com/sensei a96 rooms XNo Meals.

b Shopping

A cluster of Cook pines in the center of Lanai City surrounded by small shops and restaurants, Dole Park is the closest thing to a mall on Lanai. Except for high-end resort boutiques and pro shops, it’s the island’s only shopping option. A morning or afternoon stroll around the park offers the chance to browse the eclectic selection of gifts, art, and clothing on offer, as well as to chat with friendly shopkeepers. In addition, well-stocked general stores here evoke the 1920s.

CLOTHING

HThe Local Gentry

CLOTHING | FAMILY | Spacious and classy, this store has clothing for every need, from casual men’s and women’s beachwear to evening resort wear, shoes, jewelry, home decor, accessories, and hats. There are also fancy fashions for tots and selections of original Lanai-themed clothing and accessories, as well as items from popular Hawaii brands. Proprietor Jenna Gentry Majkus will mail your purchases. E363 7th St., Lanai City P808/565–9130 wwww.facebook.com/thelocalgentrylanai.

FOOD

Pine Isle Market

GENERAL STORE | FAMILY | One of Lanai City’s two all-purpose markets, Pine Isle stocks everything from beach toys and electronics to meats and vegetables. The staff is friendly, and it’s the best place around to buy fresh fish. E356 8th St., Lanai City P808/565–6488.

Richard’s Market

FOOD | FAMILY | Here you can stock up on high-quality meats, produce from Lanai’s Sensei Farms, fresh fish, fine wines, and imported gourmet items. The market also has a deli, a poke bar, and a bakery. E434 8th St., Lanai City P808/565–3780 wwww.facebook.com/LanaiRichardsMarket.

GALLERIES

Lanai Art Center

ART GALLERY | Local artists display their work at this dynamic center staffed by volunteers (hours are a bit flexible because of this). Workshops in pottery, photography, woodworking, and painting welcome visitors. The gift shop sells Lanai handicrafts and special offerings, the sale of which underwrites children’s art classes. The gathering spot also hosts occasional special events for the community. E339 7th St., Lanai City P808/565–7503 wlanaiartcenter.org CClosed Sun.

HMike Carroll Gallery

ART GALLERY | The dreamy, soft-focus oil paintings of award-winning painter Mike Carroll are inspired by island scenes. His work is showcased along with those of other local artists and visiting plein-air painters. You can also find handcrafted jewelry, functional art, and other accessories. Don’t miss the cute corner of the gallery dedicated to fundraising for the Lanai Cat Sanctuary, founded by Mike’s wife, Kathy. E443 7th St., Lanai City P808/565–7122 wmikecarrollgallery.com.

GENERAL STORES

Lanai City Service

GENERAL STORE | FAMILY | Lanai’s only gas station is a convenient stop to fill your belly, too. The on-site Plantation Deli is famous for its massive sandwiches packed with quality ingredients, as well as other delicious items. Snacks, beer, souvenirs, and friendly faces round out the selection. E1036 Lanai Ave., Lanai City P808/565–7227.

a Activities

BIKING

Many of the red-dirt roads that invite hikers are excellent for biking, offering easy, flat terrain and long clear views. Avoid heading out in wet weather, though, as these roads turn to mud. In addition, go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat of the midday sun. Take plenty of water, spare parts, and snacks.

A favorite route is along the fairly flat red-dirt road northward from Lanai City through the old pineapple fields to Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods). Start your trip on Keomuku Highway in town. Take a left just before Sensei Lanai’s tennis courts and then a right where the road ends at the fenced pasture, and continue on to the north end and the start of Polihua and Awalua dirt roads.

If you’re really hardy, you could bike down to Polihua Beach and back, but it would be a serious all-day trip. The exceptionally fit can bike from town down the Keomuku Highway to the windward beaches and back. Experienced bikers can also travel up and down the Manele Highway from Manele Bay to town.

HIKING

Only 30 miles of Lanai’s roads are paved, but red-dirt roads and trails, ideal for hiking, lead to sweeping overlooks, isolated beaches, and shady forests. Take a self-guided walk through Kane Puu Preserve, Hawaii’s largest native dryland forest. You can also explore the Munro Trail over Lanaihale with views of plunging canyons, hike along an old coastal fisherman trail, or head out across Koloiki Ridge. Wear hiking shoes, a hat, and sunscreen, and carry a windbreaker, cell phone, and plenty of water.

Koloiki Ridge

HIKING & WALKING | This marked trail starts behind Sensei Lanai and takes you along the cool and shady Munro Trail to overlook the windward side, with impressive views of Maui, Molokai, Maunalei Valley, and Naio Gulch. The average time for the 4.2-mile round trip is two hours. Bring snacks, water, and a windbreaker; wear good shoes; and take your time. Moderate. ELanai City.

HMunro Trail

HIKING & WALKING | This is the real thing: a strenuous 12.8-mile trek, the island’s most demanding, that begins behind the Four Seasons Hotel Lanai at Koele and follows the ridge of Lanaihale through the rainforest and to a lookout at the island’s highest point, Lanaihale. The route has an elevation gain of 1,400 feet; it also runs along a narrow dirt road, so watch out for careening 4WD vehicles. The trail is named after George Munro, who supervised the planting of Cook pine trees and eucalyptus windbreaks. Mules used to wend their way up the mountain carrying the pine seedlings. Unless you arrange for someone to pick you up at the trail’s end, you have a 3-mile hike back through the Palawai Basin to return to your starting point. The summit is often cloud-shrouded and can be windy and muddy, so check conditions before you start. Difficult. EKeomuku Hwy., Lanai City.

ZIP-LINING

HLanai Adventure Park

ZIP-LINING | FAMILY | This park features on- and off-site activities for the whole family. Options include ziplining over Kaiholena Valley, a kid-friendly two-story aerial adventure, and guided e-bike tours (location determined by the skills of everyone in your party). Excursions offer plenty of cultural and historical information, giving you the chance to learn more about Lanai while having an outdoor adventure. E1 Keomoku Hwy., Lanai City P808/563–0096 wwww.lanaiadventurepark.com A$50–$120 depending on activity.

Manele Bay

9 miles southeast of Lanai City; 10 miles south of the airport.

Manele Bay is an ocean lover’s dream: Hulopoe Beach offers top-notch snorkeling, swimming, picnicking, tide pools, and sometimes spinner dolphins. Off-island ocean excursions depart from nearby Manele Small Boat Harbor. Take the short but rugged hike to the Puu Pehe (Sweetheart Rock) overlook, and you’ll enjoy a bird’s-eye view of this iconic Lanai landmark.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

You don’t really need a car to get around Manele Bay as the resorts provide shuttle service from the airport and to other areas, but having a 4WD vehicle is useful for exploring the more rugged areas of the island.

s Sights

Manele Bay Marina

MARINA/PIER | FAMILY | Ferries from Maui dock multiple times a day, snorkeling and diving excursions take off, and visiting yachts pull in here, as it’s the island’s only small boat harbor. Public restrooms, grassy lawns, and picnic tables make it a busy pit stop—you can watch the boating activity as you rest. E12 Manele Rd., Lanai City.

Puu Pehe

NATURE SIGHT | FAMILY | Often called Sweetheart Rock, this isolated 80-foot-high islet is steeped in romantic Hawaiian lore. The rock is said to be named after Pehe, a woman so beautiful that her husband kept her hidden in a sea cave. One day, the surf surged into the cave, and she drowned. Her grief-stricken husband buried her on this rock and jumped to his death. It is also believed that the enclosure on the summit is a shrine to birds, built by bird-catchers. Protected shearwaters nest in the nearby sea cliffs July–November. EHwy. 440, Manele, Lanai City.

; Beaches

HHulopoe Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | A short stroll from the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, Hulopoe is one of the best beaches in Hawaii. The sparkling crescent of this Marine Life Conservation District beckons with calm waters safe for swimming almost year-round, great snorkeling reefs, tide pools, and sometimes spinner dolphins (remember, it’s a federal crime to touch, chase, or otherwise harass the dolphins). A shady, grassy beach park is perfect for picnics. If the shore break is pounding, or if you see surfers riding big waves, stay out of the water. In the afternoon, watch Lanai High School students heave outrigger canoes down the steep shore break and race one another just offshore. To get here, take Highway 440 south to the bottom of the hill and turn right. The road dead-ends at the beach’s parking lot. Amenities: parking (no fee); showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; surfing; swimming. EOff Hwy. 440, Lanai City.

r Restaurants

Dining at Manele Bay is reliant on the restaurants at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, where options range from informal poolside and casual golf-course eateries to contemporary fine-dining establishments.

HNobu Lanai

$$$$ | JAPANESE | Chef Nobuyuki “Nobu” Matsuhisa offers his signature new-style Japanese cuisine in this open-air, relaxed luxury venue that features a lounge, outdoor tables, and a sushi bar overlooking Holopoe Bay. This is fine dining without the stress, as black-clad waiters present dish after dish of beautifully seasoned, raw and lightly cooked seafood that’s from local waters or has been flown in directly from Alaska and Japan. Known for: 15-course Teppanyaki Experience; the famous miso cod; exceptional service. DAverage main: $40 EFour Seasons Resort Lanai, 1 Manele Bay Rd., Lanai City P808/565–2832 wnoburestaurants.com/lanai CNo lunch.

ONE FORTY

$$$$ | AMERICAN | An airy terrace—sunny or shaded thanks to retractable awnings—with tropical decor and potted plants is an inviting place to enjoy Hulopoe Bay views at this breakfast and dinner (resort guests only) restaurant named for the island’s 140 square miles. In the evening, dishes featuring prime cuts of beef and fresh local fish are all on the menu. Known for: tasty upscale breakfasts; decadent and delicious seafood tower; poke prepared tableside. DAverage main: $55 EFour Seasons Resort Lanai, 1 Manele Bay Rd., Lanai City P808/565–2000 wwww.fourseasons.com/lanai/dining CNo lunch.

VIEWS at Manele Golf

$$ | AMERICAN | Views of the legendary Puu Pehe rock and occasional glimpses of frolicking dolphins only enhance the imaginative lunch fare at this open-air golf-club restaurant. Tuck into a Hulopoe Bay prawn BLT, crispy fish-and-chips with Meyer lemon tartar sauce, or any of the tempting salad options. Known for: fabulous cocktails; superb service; house-made ice cream sandwiches. DAverage main: $26 EFour Seasons Resort Lanai, 1 Manele Bay Rd., Manele, Lanai City P808/565–2230 wwww.fourseasons.com/lanai/dining CClosed Mon. No dinner.

h Hotels

HFour Seasons Resort Lanai

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | In addition to stunning views of Hulopoe Bay and the rocky coastline, this sublime retreat offers manicured grounds featuring native Hawaiian plants, as well as urban-chic interiors featuring meticulously curated art from Polynesia, Micronesia, and Hawaii. Pros: nearby beach; outstanding restaurants and high-tech amenities; rental vehicles available on property. Cons: 20 minutes from town; need a car to explore the area; not all guest rooms have coastal views. DRooms from: $2,005 E1 Manele Bay Rd., Manele, Lanai City P808/565–2000, 800/819–5053 wwww.fourseasons.com/lanai a213 rooms XNo Meals.

a Activities

GOLF

Manele Golf Course

GOLF | You’ll need to be a Four Seasons Resort Lanai guest to play at this renowned course designed by Jack Nicklaus in 1993. Perched on lava outcroppings above of Hulopoe Bay, the five-tee course is on every good golfer’s bucket list due to its challenging nature and natural beauty. Three holes are positioned on cliffs, utilizing the Pacific Ocean as a water hazard, while other shots require navigating gorges and ravines to get to the hole. Unspoiled terrain provides a stunning backdrop, with every hole offering ocean views. Early morning tee times are recommended to avoid the midday heat. EFour Seasons Resort Lanai, Challenge Dr., Manele, Lanai City P808/565–4000 wwww.fourseasons.com/lanai/experiences AFrom $385 (for resort guests only) J18 holes, 7,039 yards, par 72.

HIKING

Fisherman’s Trail

HIKING & WALKING | To reach their favorite fishing spots, local anglers use this trail along the rocky shore below the Fours Seasons Lanai resort. The marked trailhead is at the west end of Hulopoe Beach, and the hike takes about 1½ hours (4.4 miles round trip). Keep your eyes open for spinner dolphins cavorting offshore and the silvery flash of fish feeding in the pools below. The condition of the trail varies with weather and frequency of maintenance; it can be slippery and rocky. Take your time, wear a hat and enclosed shoes, and carry water. Moderate. EManele, Lanai City.

Puu Pehe Trail

HIKING & WALKING | Beginning to the left of Hulopoe Beach, this trail travels a short distance around the coastline and then climbs up a sharp rocky rise. At the top, you’re level with the offshore stack of Puu Pehe and can overlook miles of coastline in both directions. The trail is not difficult, but it’s hot and steep. Be aware of nesting seabirds and don’t approach their nests. zStay away from the edge, as the cliff can easily give way.The hike is best in the early morning or late afternoon, as it offers stunning sunset views. Be sure to look for whales in season (November–May, peak season January–March). Wear a hat and enclosed shoes, and take water.Moderate. EManele, Lanai City.

SCUBA DIVING

When you have a dive site such as Cathedrals—with eerie pinnacle formations and luminous caverns—it’s no wonder that scuba-diving buffs consider exploring the waters off Lanai akin to a religious experience.

HCathedrals

SCUBA DIVING | Just outside Hulopoe Bay, Cathedrals is the best cavern dive site in Lanai. Shimmering light makes the many openings resemble stained-glass windows. A current generally keeps the water crystal clear, even if it’s turbid outside. In these unearthly chambers, large ulua (giant trevally) and small reef sharks add to the adventure. Tiger sharks may appear in certain seasons. EManele, Lanai City.

SNORKELING

Snorkeling is the easiest ocean sport available on the island, requiring nothing but a snorkel, mask, fins, and good sense. Borrow equipment from your hotel or purchase some in Lanai City if you didn’t bring your own. Wait to enter the water until you are sure no big sets of waves are coming, and observe the activity of locals on the beach. If little kids are playing in the shore break, it’s usually safe to enter. lTo get into the water safely, always swim in past the breakers, and in the comparative calm put on your fins, then mask and snorkel.

The best snorkeling on Lanai is at Hulopoe Beach and Manele Small Boat Harbor. Hulopoe has schools of manini that feed on the coral and coat the rocks with flashing silver. You can also easily view kala (unicorn fish), uhu (parrot fish), and papio (small trevally) in all their rainbow colors. Beware of rocks and surging waves. At Manele harbor, there’s a wade-in snorkel spot beyond the break wall. Enter over the rocks, just past the boat ramp. zDo not enter if the waves are breaking.

SPAS

Hawanawana Spa

SPA | Not only do treatments incorporate locally inspired techniques and ingredients, but they can also be tailored to your needs and desires, so no two experiences need be the same. Consider indulging in signature treatments such as the Island Serenity Ritual or the Lanai Honey Escape. Massages are also available in couples’ suites and poolside. In addition, the spa offers salon services and a wide range of yoga (including aerial yoga), fitness, and meditation classes. EFour Seasons Resort Lanai, 1 Manele Bay Rd., Manele, Lanai City P808/565–2088 wwww.fourseasons.com/lanai/spa AFrom $260 for 60-minute massage, from $395 for 90- to 115-minute signature treatments.

SURFING

Surfing on Lanai can be truly enjoyable. Quality, not quantity, characterizes this isle’s few breaks. Be considerate of the locals, and they will be considerate of you—surfing takes the place of megaplex theaters and pool halls here, serving as one of the island’s few recreational luxuries.

Windward Lanai

9 miles northeast of Lanai City; 17 miles northeast of the airport.

The eastern shore of Lanai is mostly deserted. A few inaccessible heiau, or temples, rock walls, and boulders marking old shrines, and a restored church at Keomuku Village—once home to the short-lived (1898–1901) Maunalei Sugar Company—are the only traces of human habitation.

Four-wheel-drive vehicles are a must to explore this side of the isle. Pack a picnic lunch, a hat and sunscreen, and plenty of drinking water. Having a cell phone is also a good idea.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Once you leave Keomuku Highway the roads are dirt and sand. Mileage doesn’t matter much here, but figure on 20 minutes from the end of the paved road to Kaiolohia Beach (aka Shipwreck Beach) about 45 minutes to Lopa Beach.

Road conditions vary with the seasons, but, in these remote areas, 4WD vehicles are necessary regardless. Drive with caution, being mindful of locals on recreational vehicles, as well as roaming axis deer, turkeys, and other wild animals.

s Sights

Japanese Laborer Memorial

MEMORIAL | To build the mill, wharf, railways, and other infrastructure associated with the short-lived Maunalei Sugar Company, its owners employed mostly Japanese contract laborers (more than 600 of them at the peak of operation), who also planted and harvested the sugar cane. During the three years (1898–1901) of the mill’s existence, approximately 70 workers died of various causes. In 1932, the Lanai Hongwanji built a memorial to honor them. Look for signs on the coastal road in the Kahalepalaoa area. ELanai City.

Kahalepalaoa Ruins

RUINS | In the Kahalepalaoa Beach area, on the makai side of the coastal road, are historical marker signs. Follow the path to the left to find the crumbling remains of the Kahalepalaoa church, meeting hall, and school house—the island’s oldest Western-style building—which once served the windward communities of Lanai. Do not attempt to explore the structure’s interior; indeed, stay behind the barrier that’s here. You can also follow a path at the right off the road to the Maunalei Sugar Company locomotive, a remnant of the brief period when a doomed sugar mill operation changed the landscape. Be careful of thorny keawe (mesquite) branches while exploring. ELanai City.

Keomuku Village

GHOST TOWN | There’s a peaceful beauty to the former fishing village of Keomuku. In 1898, this small community was chosen as the site for the headquarters of the Maunalei Sugar Company, which lasted just three years, closing in 1901, when the well water became too salty for use and financial pressures took their toll. The area was subsequently abandoned.

Today, the only sign of habitation is the 1903 church, Ka Lanakila O Ka Malamalama, which has been restored by volunteers. Visitors often leave some small token, a shell or lei, here as an offering. To get here, turn right onto the dirt road at the eastern terminus of Highway 440. The church will be on your right, about 5 miles south and amid coconut trees. EOn dirt road off Hwy. 440.

Waiaopae Fishpond

BODY OF WATER | Once an important feature to Lanai’s Native Hawaiian communities, this 9-acre fishpond fell into disrepair and its springs became polluted by Upcountry runoff when the native populations rapidly declined after Western contact in 1778. In 2015, a collaborative community effort to restore the fishpond began, and you can see the progress that has been made, as well as beautiful views when pulling off the road. Portable restrooms are available here. ELanai City.

; Beaches

Halepalaoa Beach

BEACH | Named for the whales that once washed ashore here, Halepalaoa, or the “House of Whale Ivory,” is a nice place for whale-watching and sunbathing, but it’s difficult to reach (a 4WD vehicle is definitely required). The beach was also the site of a wharf used by the Maunalei Sugar Company, which was established in 1898 and closed just three years later. Although brackish well water and financial difficulties were likely to blame for the endeavor’s failure, some say the company was cursed because it built its cane railroad using sacred stones taken from nearby Kahea Heiau, once an important place of worship and now hidden amid kiawe (mesquite) overgrowth. To get to this beach, follow Highway 440 (Keomuku Highway) to its eastern terminus, turn right onto a dirt road, and continue south for 5½ miles. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude. EOn dirt road off Hwy. 440, Lanai City.

Kaiolohia Beach (Shipwreck Beach)

BEACH | This fairly accessible 8-mile stretch is a favorite local diving spot, though the offshore reef and rocks make it a poor place for swimming. The rusting World War II tanker abandoned in the waters here is an example of how the strong trade winds have propelled vessels onto the reef since at least 1824, when the first shipwreck was recorded. You can wander the sands hunting for shells or other washed-up treasures like glass-ball fishing floats. Indeed, owing to the convergence of Pacific currents, a lot of debris washes ashore here, so it’s a great place to show Lanai some love with a bit of trash cleanup (bring a bag and gloves). Photographers take note: you can get great shots of Molokai, just across the Kalohi Channel. Beyond the beach, about 200 yards up a trail past the Shipwreck Beach sign, are the Kukui Point petroglyphs, marked by reddish-brown boulders. To get here, take Highway 440 to its eastern terminus, then turn left onto the dirt road and continue to the end. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; windsurfing. EOff Hwy. 440, Lanai City.

Lopa Beach

BEACH | The site of an ancient fishpond, this remote white-sand beach offers majestic views of West Maui and Kahoolawe and is a great place for a picnic.zThe channel’s current is far too strong for swimming.Although you’ll see surfers in the waters here, this spot tests the mettle of even the sport’s most experienced practitioners. To get here, take Highway 440 to its eastern terminus, turn right onto a dirt road, and continue south for 7 miles. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; sunrise; walking. EOn dirt road off Hwy. 440.

a Activities

SCUBA DIVING

Sergeant Major Reef

SCUBA DIVING | Off Kamaiki Point, Sergeant Major Reef is named for big schools of yellow- and black-striped manini (sergeant major fish) that turn the rocks silvery as they feed. There are three parallel lava ridges separated by rippled sand valleys, a cave, and an archway. Depths range from 15–50 feet. Depending on conditions, the water may be clear or cloudy. ELanai City.

The Coastal Road s

Road conditions can change overnight and become impassable due to rain in the Upcountry. Your car-rental agency will give you an update before you head out. Some of the spur roads leading to the windward beaches from the coastal dirt road cross private property and are closed off by chains. Look for open spur roads with recent tire marks (a fairly good sign that they are safe to drive on). It’s best to park on firm ground and walk in to avoid getting your car mired in the sand.

Index

The index links provided will take you to the beginning of the corresponding page of the print edition. You may need to scroll forward from that location to find the corresponding reference on your e-reader.

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

A

A-Bay’s Island Grill (Big Island) W, 346

Accommodations, 58

Big Island, 311–313, 323–325, 332, 341–342, 347–348, 351–352, 354–355, 359, 363–364, 370, 381, 385–386, 390–391, 394–395, 403, 410

Kauai, 440, 441, 451–452, 458, 476, 480, 485–486, 498–500, 503, 509, 512

Lanai, 568, 573, 577

Maui, 204–206, 212, 214–216, 219–220, 223, 231–233, 239–241, 246, 265, 267, 277

Molokai, 542–543, 546–547, 553, 558

Oahu, 83–85, 100–108, 134, 145, 151–152, 162, 174, 176

Aerial tours, 177–178, 260, 279–280, 411–413, 462–463, 513

Agnes’ Portuguese Bake Shop (Oahu) W, 172

Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve (Maui), 234

Ahuena Heiau (Big Island), 318

Air travel, 52, 76

Big Island, 309

Kauai, 437

Lanai, 567

Maui, 201, 204

Molokai, 541

Oahu, 81

Akaka Falls State Park (Big Island), 370

Ala Moana (Oahu), 133–135, 138

Ala Moana Regional Park (Oahu), 133

Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond (Kauai), 481

Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum (Maui), 242

Alii Fishpond (Molokai), 547–548

Alii Kula Lavender (Maui), 253

All Things Molokai (shop), 555

Aloha Collection (shop; Oahu), 111

Aloha Exchange (shop; Kauai), 503, 505

Alohilani Resort Waikiki Beach (Oahu) L, 101

Anaehoomalu Bay (Big Island), 343, 346

Anaina Hou Community Park (Kauai), 453

Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort L, 239

Anini Beach Park (Kauai), 449, 454–455

Anna Ranch Heritage Center (Big Island), 360

Arizona (Arizona Memorial), 114, 117

As Hawi Turns (shop; Big Island), 359

ATV tours, 513–514

Aulani, a Disney Resort & Spa (Oahu) L, 151

B

Baby Beach (Kauai), 472, 474

Baldwin Beach (Maui), 264

Ba-Le Sandwiches & Bakery (Maui) W, 249

Bamboo Inn on Hana Bay (Maui) L, 277

Banyan Drive (Hilo; Big Island), 382

Banzai Sushi Bar (Oahu) W, 158

Bar Acuda (Kauai) W, 450

Bar Leather Apron (Oahu), 123, 126

Basically Books (shop; Big Island), 386

Missouri (Battleship Missouri Memorial), 113, 118

Beach House by Roy Yamaguchi (Oahu) W, 162

Beaches

Big Island, 311, 310, 331–332, 339–340, 343, 346, 350, 353–354, 356, 357–358, 383, 389, 408, 410

Kauai, 448–450, 454–456, 468, 472, 474, 484, 493, 495–497, 505, 508–509

Lanai, 568, 572, 576–577, 580–581

Maui, 207, 209, 213, 218, 221–222, 229, 236–237, 243, 264, 266, 275–276

Molokai, 542, 544, 546, 547, 551–552, 557

Oahu, 83, 91, 94, 105, 133, 147, 149–150, 152, 155, 157, 160–161, 167, 169, 171, 175
safety, 221, 297

Bed-and-breakfasts, 58

Bellows Field Beach Park (Oahu), 169

Big Island, The, 24, 35, 306–432
accommodations, 311–313, 323–325, 332, 341–342, 347–348, 351–352, 354–355, 359, 363–364, 370, 381, 385–386, 390–391, 394–395, 403, 410
beaches, 311, 310, 331–332, 339–340, 343, 346, 350, 353–354, 356, 357–358, 383, 389, 408, 410
festivals and seasonal events, 326–327, 348–349, 352, 355, 381
museums and galleries, 349–350, 356, 359, 364, 369, 372, 378, 381–382, 383, 387, 393, 403
nightlife and the arts, 325–327, 342, 352, 355, 356, 364, 381
prices, 311
restaurants, 313–314, 320–323, 332, 340, 346–347, 350–351, 354, 356, 358, 362–363, 370, 372, 380–381, 383, 385, 390, 394, 403, 407, 410
shopping, 314, 324, 327–329, 348, 349–350, 352–353, 356–357, 359, 364–365, 369, 372, 377, 381–382, 386, 391, 393, 403
sports and outdoor activities, 410–432
tours, 314, 362, 365–366, 374–376, 392, 411–413, 414, 415–416, 421–422, 423–424, 425–426, 427–428, 429, 431
transportation, 309–310
visitor information, 314

Big Island Candies (shop), 391

Big Kahuna Beach Grill (Big Island) W, 320

Big Wind Kite Factory (Molokai), 557

Bike Maui, 280

Biking, 260, 280–281, 413–414, 514–516, 558–559, 574–575

Bird-watching, 228–229, 453, 507

Bishop Museum (Oahu), 139–140

Blue Dolphin Charters (Kauai), 517–518

Blue Dragon Tavern and Cosmic Musiquarium (Big Island), 356

Blue Note Hawaii (music; Oahu), 110

Boat and ferry travel, 568

Boating and sailing, 178–179, 217, 282, 289, 424, 516–521

Bodyboarding and bodysurfing, 179–181, 281, 414–415, 521

Bogart’s Café (Oahu) W, 94

Boiling Pots (Big Island), 386

Bookends (shop; Oahu), 172

Books and movies, 48, 487

Bowfin (Pearl Harbor), 119

Brennecke Beach (Kauai), 493

Bus travel, 52–53, 76, 81–82, 204, 309–310, 568

Business hours, 57

Byodo-In Temple (Oahu), 173

C

Cafe il Mondo (Big Island) W, 370

Camping, 259

CanoeHouse (Big Island) W, 351

Capt. Andy’s Sailing Adventures (Kauai), 518

Captain James Cook Monument (Big Island), 336

Car travel and rental, 53–55, 82, 204, 310, 437, 440, 541–542, 567–568

Catamaran tours, 464–465, 517–518

Cathedrals (dive site; Lanai), 579

Caving, 415–416

Central Maui, 242–250

Central Molokai, 547–555

Central Oahu, 145–154

Chain of Craters Road (Big Island), 404

Chart House Waikiki (Oahu) W, 95

Children, travel with, 36

Church Row (Molokai), 548–549

Chinatown (Honolulu), 126–130

Coastal Road (Lanai), 581

Colleen’s at the Cannery (Maui) W, 268

Condominium and house rentals, 58, 102, 311, 313

Contacts, 76

Cruises, 464–465

Cuisine, 28–29, 45–47, 98, 157, 230, 237

Cultural programs, 106

D

D. T. Fleming Beach (Maui), 221

Damien, Father, 548

Devastation Trail (Big Island), 395

Diamond Head (Oahu), 88–89

Diamond Head State Monument (Oahu), 89, 184, 186

Dinner cruises and shows, 126

Dole Plantation (Oahu), 153–154

Downtown (Hilo; Big Island), 377–382

Downtown (Honolulu), 121–126

Duke, Doris, 122

Duke’s Beach (Oahu), 91

Duke’s Waikiki (bar; Oahu), 108

Dunbar Beachfront Cottages (Molokai) L, 558

Dunes at Maui Lani, The, 282

E

East Maui, 278–279

East Molokai, 556–558

East Side (Kauai), 468–476, 480–489

Eating House 1849 (Kauai) W, 497

Ehukai Beach Park (Oahu), 160

808 on Main (Maui) W, 248–249

El Cielo (Oahu) W, 95, 98

Ewa Beach (Oahu), 147, 149

F

Fair Wind Cruises (Big Island), 427

Fairmont Orchid Hawaii (Big Island) L, 351–352

Farm tours, 362

Fathom Five (Kauai), 530–531

Fern Grotto (Kauai), 520–521

Ferry travel, 568

Festivals and seasonal events, 74–75, 326–327, 348–349, 352, 355, 381, 480, 486, 492, 500

Fishing, 181, 281–282, 416–417, 521–522, 559

Flora and fauna, 32–33, 477–479

Flyin’ Hawaiian Zipline (Maui), 304

Food trucks (Maui), 212

Fort DeRussy Beach Park (Oahu), 91

Foster’s Kitchen (Big Island) W, 320

Four Seasons Resort Hualalai (Big Island) L, 332

Four Seasons Resort Lanai L, 577

Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea L, 239–240

Four Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina L, 152

Freshies Maui W, 252

Friends of Haleakala National Park (Maui), 286–287

G

Gallery of Great Things (Big Island), 364

Ganotisi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine (Lanai) W, 572

Garden of Eden Arboretum (Maui), 272

Garden of the Gods (Keahiakawelo; Lanai), 570–571

Gardens

Big Island, 382–383, 386–387, 389

Kauai, 445, 454, 492–493

Maui, 242–243, 248, 272, 275

Molokai, 549–550

Oahu, 144, 160, 163, 166, 173

Golf

Big Island, 417–419

Kauai, 522–523

Lanai, 577–578

Maui, 282–284

Molokai, 559–560

Oahu, 182–184

Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa L, 498–499

Greater Hilo (Big Island), 386–391

Greater Park Area (Big Island), 404

Greenwell Farms (Big Island), 336–337

H

Haena and environs (Kauai), 444–445, 448, 450–452

Haena Beach Park (Kauai), 448, 449

Haiku (Maui), 267–268

Haili Congregational Church (Big Island), 377

Halawa Beach Park (Molokai), 557

Halawa Valley (Molokai), 556

Halawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike (Molokai), 560

Hale Hoikeike at the Bailey House (Maui), 247

Haleakala National Park (Maui), 254–262

Haleakala Volcano Crater (Maui), 262

Haleiwa (Oahu), 157–159

Haleiwa Alii Beach Park (Oahu), 157

Haleiwa Joe’s Haiku Gardens (Oahu) W, 174

Halekulani Hotel (Oahu) L, 103

Halemaumau Crater (Big Island), 395, 402

Halepalaoa Beach (Lanai), 580–581

Halepuna Waikiki by Halekulani (Oahu) L, 103

Haliimaile General Store (Maui) W, 252

Halona Blowhole (Oahu), 163

Hamakua Coast (Big Island), 365–376

Hamoa Beach (Maui), 275–276

Hana and environs (Maui), 268–278

Hana Bay Beach Park (Maui), 276

Hana Farms Bamboo Hale Grill & Pizzeria (Maui) W, 276–277

Hana Kai Maui L, 277

Hana Koa Brewing Co. (Oahu), 132

Hana Ranch Restaurant (Maui) W, 277

Hanakapiai Beach (Kauai), 448, 450, 468

Hanalei and environs (Kauai), 444–445, 448, 450–452

Hanalei Bay (Kauai), 448, 449

Hanalei Dolphin, The (Kauai) W, 451

Hanalei Pier (Kauai), 444

Hanalei Valley Overlook (Kauai), 444–445

Hanapepe (Kauai), 505–506

Hanapepe Swinging Bridge (Kauai), 505

Hanapepe Valley Lookout (Kauai), 505

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve (Oahu), 167

Hanauma Bay Rental Stand (Oahu), 192

Hanawi Falls (Maui), 272

Hang gliding, 284

Hansen’s disease, 548, 551

Hapuna (Big Island), 353–355

Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area (Big Island), 353–354

Happy Talk Lounge (Kauai), 458–459

Harbor House (Big Island) W, 320

Hawaii Forest and Trail (Big Island), 374–376, 421

Hawaii Island Retreat at Ahu Pohaku Hoomaluhia (Big Island) L, 359

Hawaii Kai (Oahu), 163, 166–168

Hawaii Lifeguard Surf Instructors (Big Island), 430

Hawaii State Capitol (Oahu), 121

Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve and Garden (Big Island), 386–387

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (Big Island), 391–410

Hawaii Walls – World Wide Walls (Oahu), 130–131

Hawaiian culture, 40–47

Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary (Maui), 228

Hawaiian Sailboarding Techniques (Maui), 304

Hawaii’s Finest (shop; Molokai), 554

Hawaii’s Plantation Village (Oahu), 146

Hawi (Big Island), 357–359

Hayashi’s You Make the Roll (Big Island) W, 320–321

Health concerns, 56–57, 401

Hike Maui, 287

Hiking

Big Island, 420–422

Kauai, 466–467, 523–526

Lanai, 575, 578

Maui, 258–259, 284–287

Molokai, 560

Oahu, 184–186

Hilo (Big Island), 376–391

Hilo Bay Cafe (Big Island) W, 383, 385

Hilo Burger Joint (Big Island) W, 380

Hilo Coffee Mill (Big Island), 387

Hilo Farmers Market (Big Island), 377

Hiro’s Ohana Grill (Molokai) W, 552

History, 38, 333–335, 548

Hi-Tech (shop; Maui), 246

Hi-Tech Surf Sports (shop; Maui), 301

Holoholokai Beach Park and Petroglyph Trail (Big Island), 350

Holualoa (Big Island), 315

Holualoa Inn (Big Island) L, 324

Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden (Oahu), 173

Hoopulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill (Kauai), 445

Honeymoons, 37

Honokaa (Big Island), 369–370

Honokowai Okazuya & Deli (Maui) W, 214

Honolii Beach Park (Big Island), 389

Honolulu, 87–145

Honolulu Cookie Company (shop; Oahu), 111

Honolulu Museum of Art (Oahu), 121

Honolulu Zoo, 89–90

Honomu (Big Island), 370–372

Hooilo House (Maui) L, 212

Hookipa Beach (Maui), 266

Horseback riding, 186–187, 287, 422, 526

Hotel cultural programs, 106

Hotel Molokai L, 553

House of Mana Up (shop; Oahu), 111

House rentals, 58

Huelo (Maui), 269–270

Huggo’s on the Rocks (bar; Big Island), 325–326

Hui Noeau Visual Arts Center (Maui), 251

Hukilau Lanai (Kauai) W, 475

Hula, 40–42, 544

Hula Daddy Kona Coffee (Big Island), 315

Hula Girl (sailing; Maui), 217

Hula Lamps of Hawaii (shop; Big Island), 327

Hulihee Palace (Big Island), 315, 318

Hulopoe Beach (Lanai), 576–577

Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa L, 214–215

Hypr Nalu Hawaii (Big Island), 428

I

I Love Hana Art Boutique (Maui), 278

Iao Needle Lookout Trail & Ethnobotanical Loop (Maui), 285

Iao Valley State Monument (Maui), 247–248

Ice cream, 237

Imiloa Astronomy Center (Big Island), 387

Inn at Mama’s Fish House, The (Maui) L, 267

Iolani Palace (Oahu), 122

Island Breeze Luau (Big Island), 327

Island Vintage Wine Bar (Oahu) W, 98

Itineraries, 66–73

Izumo Taishakyo Mission of Hawaii (Oahu), 127

J

Jack Harter Helicopters (Kauai), 513

Japanese Grandma’s Cafe (Kauai) W, 506

Japanese Laborer Memorial (Lanai), 580

Japengo (Maui) W, 214

Jaws Country Store (Maui), 268

Joey’s Kitchen (Maui) W, 218

JO2 Natural Cuisine (Kauai) W, 475

K

Ka Lae (Big Island), 408

Kaaawa (Oahu), 174–175

Kaaloa’s Super J’s Authentic Hawaiian Food (Big Island) W, 340

Kaana Kitchen (Maui) W, 237–238

Kaanapali (Maui), 213–217

Kaanapali Beach (Maui), 213

Kaawa Loa Plantation (Big Island) L, 342

Kaeleku Caverns (Maui), 273, 275

Kaena Point State Park (Oahu), 155

Kaena Point Trail (Oahu), 186

Kahala (Oahu), 144–145

Kahala Hotel & Resort, The (Oahu) L, 145

Kahalepalaoa Ruins (Lanai), 580

Kahaloa and Ulukou Beaches (Oahu), 91

Kahaluu Beach Park (Big Island), 319

Kahana Bay Beach Park (Oahu), 175

Kahanu Garden (Maui), 275

Kahili Beach (Kauai), 455

Kahilu Theatre (Big Island), 364

Kahuku (Oahu), 161–162

Kahuku Farms Café (Oahu) W, 162

Kahului (Maui), 242–243, 245–247

Kaiakea Scenic Viewpoint (Kauai), 469, 472

Kailua (Oahu), 169, 171–172

Kailua Beach Park (Oahu), 169, 171

Kailua Pier (Big Island), 318

Kailua-Kona (Big Island), 314–332

Kaimana [Sans Souci] Beach [Oahu], 91, 94

Kaimuki (Oahu), 143–144

Kaiolohia Beach (Lanai), 581

Kakaako (Oahu), 130–133

Kalaheo (Kauai), 502–503, 505

Kalakaua Park (Big Island), 377–378

Kalalau Beach (Kauai), 468

Kalalau Lookout (Kauai), 507

Kalalau Trail (Kauai), 524

Kalama Park (Maui), 229

Kalapaki Beach (Kauai), 484

Kalaupapa Peninsula (Molokai), 548

Kalihi-Liliha-Kapalama (Oahu), 139–140

Kalihiwai Beach (Kauai), 455

Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park (Big Island), 330

Kalopa State Recreation Area (Big Island), 369

Kaluakoi (Molokai), 544

Kamakahonu and Ahuena Heiau (Big Island), 318

Kamakahonu Beach (Big Island), 319

Kamalo Harbor (Molokai), 556

Kamaole I, 11, and III (beaches; Maui), 229

Kamehameha I Statue (Oahu), 122

Kanaha Beach (Maui), 243

Kaneohe (Oahu), 172–174

Kanemitsu’s Bakery & Coffee Shop (Molokai) W, 552, 554

Kanepuu Preserve (Lanai), 570

Kapa Hale (Oahu) W, 145

Kapaa (Kauai), 469–476, 480–481

Kapaau (Big Island), 357–359

Kapahulu Oahu), 142–143

Kapaia Stitchery (shop; Kauai), 488

Kapalua (Maui), 220–224

Kapalua Bay Beach (Maui), 222

Kapalua Golf (Maui), 283

Kapiolani Park Bandstand (Oahu), 90

KapohoKine Adventures (Big Island), 421–422

Kapolei (Oahu), 146–147

Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove (Molokai), 549

Kau (Big Island), 391–392, 407–410

Kauai, 24, 34, 35, 434–535
accommodations, 440, 441, 451–452, 458, 476, 480, 485–486, 498–500, 503, 509, 512
beaches, 448–450, 454–456, 468, 472, 474, 484, 493, 495–497, 505, 508–509
festivals and seasonal events, 480, 486, 492, 500
museums and galleries, 481, 484, 488, 500, 507
nightlife and the arts, 452, 458–459, 480, 486, 500
prices, 440
restaurants, 440–441, 450–451, 456–458, 474–476, 484–485, 490, 497–498, 503, 506, 509
shopping, 452, 459, 480–481, 486, 488–489, 492, 500–502, 503, 505, 506, 512
sports and outdoor activities, 449, 453, 462–467, 495, 512–535
tours, 441–442, 462–467, 513–514, 516–521, 526, 528–529, 530–531, 534–535
transportation, 437, 440
visitor information, 442

Kauai ATV, 513–514

Kauai Chocolate Company (shop), 506

Kauai Coast Resort at the Beachboy L, 476

Kauai Coffee Estate Visitor Center, 503

Kauai Community Market, 488

Kauai Marathon, 492

Kauai Museum, 481, 484

Kauai Museum Gift Shop, 488

Kauai Nature Tours, 526

Kauapea Beach (Kauai), 455

Kaumana Caves Park (Big Island), 387

Kaunakakai (Molokai), 549

Kaunakakai Harbor (Molokai), 549

Kaunaoa Beach (Big Island), 354

Kaupo Road (Maui), 278–279

Kawaihae (Big Island), 355–357

Kawaiahao Church (Oahu), 122–123

Kayaking, 188–189, 287–288, 422–424, 464–465, 526–529, 560

Ke Ala Hele Makalae (Kauai), 469, 514

Ke Ala o Kulanihakoi (Big Island), 413–414

Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods; Lanai), 570–571

Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park (Big Island), 337

Kealia Beach (Kauai), 474

Kealia Pond National Wildlife Reserve (Maui), 228–229

Keanae (Maui), 270, 272–273

Keanae Arboretum (Maui), 272

Keanae Overlook (Maui), 273

Keawakapu Beach (Maui), 229

Keawe Street (Hilo; Big Island), 378

Kee Beach (Kauai), 449, 450

Kekaha Beach Park (Kauai), 508

Kekaha Kai State Park (Big Island), 331–332

Ken’s House of Pancakes (Big Island) W, 385

Keokea Beach Park (Big Island), 357

Keomuku Village (Lanai), 580

Keoneheehee Trail (Maui), 285

Keoneloa Beach (Kauai), 493, 495

Keep It Simple (shop; Oahu), 112

Kepaniwai Park & Heritage Gardens (Maui), 248

Kepuhi Beach (Molokai), 544

Kihei (Maui), 228–234

Kihei Caffe (Maui) W, 229

Kilauea and environs (Kauai), 453–459

Kilauea Caverns of Fire (Big Island), 405

Kilauea Iki Trail (Big Island), 402

Kilauea Military Camp (Big Island), 402

Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge and Kilauea Lighthouse (Kauai), 453

Kilauea Visitor Center (Big Island), 402

Kilohana Plantation (Kauai), 484

Kimura’s Lauhala Shop (Big Island), 327

King Kamehameha Day Celebration Parade (Big Island), 326

Kipahulu (Maui), 278–279

Knead & Bake (Big Island) W, 351

Ko Olina (Oahu), 149–152

Ko Olina Beach (Oahu), 149–150

Koa Kea Hotel & Resort (Kauai) L, 499

Kohala Coast (Big Island), 342–365

Kohala Divers (Big Island), 426

Kohala Mountain Road Lookout (Big Island), 360

Kokee Lodge (Kauai) W, 509

Kokee Natural History Museum (Kauai), 507

Kokee State Park (Kauai), 507–508, 525–526

Koki Beach (Maui), 276

Koko Crater Botanical Garden (Oahu), 163, 166

Koko Head Cafe (Oahu) W, 143

Kolea at Waikaloa Beach Resort (Big Island) L, 347

Koloa (Kauai), 489–490, 492

Kona Boys (kayaking; Big Island), 423

Kona Brewers Festival (Big Island), 326

Kona Brewing Co. (Big Island) W, 321–322

Kona coffee, 341

Kona Coffee Cultural Festival (Big Island), 326

Kona Coffee Living History Farm (Big Island), 337, 339

Kona Country Club (Big Island), 418

Kona Inn Restaurant (Big Island) W, 322

Kona Rainforest Farms (Big Island), 339

Kona Tiki Hotel (Big Island) L, 325

Kona Village – A Rosewood Resort (Big Island) L, 332

Kona Wine Market (Big Island), 327

Kualoa Ranch (Oahu), 174–175

Kualoa Regional Park (Oahu), 175

Kuan Yin Temple (Oahu), 127

Kuau (Maui), 266–267

Kuhio Beach (Oahu), 94

Kuia Chocolate Cafe, Store & Factory Experience (Maui) W, 209, 212

Kula (Maui), 253–254

Kula Kai Caverns (Big Island), 415–416

L

La Mer (Oahu) W, 98

La Spezia (Kauai) W, 490

Lahaina (Maui), 207–209, 212

Laie (Oahu), 175–176

Lanai, 25, 564–581
accommodations, 568, 573, 577
beaches, 568, 572, 576–577, 580–581
museums and galleries, 571, 574
prices, 568
restaurants, 568–569, 572–573, 577
safety, 581
shopping, 573–574
sports and outdoor activities, 574–575, 577–579, 581
timing the visit, 567
transportation, 567–568

Lanai Adventure Park, 575

Lanai Cat Sanctuary, 571

Lanai City, 569–575

Lanai City Bar & Grill W, 572–573

Lanai Culture and Heritage Center, 571

Lanai Lookout (Oahu), 166

Language, 62–65

Lanikai Beach (Oahu), 171

Lapakahi State Historical Park (Big Island), 357

Larsen’s Beach (Kauai), 455–456

Laulima Farm Stand (Maui), 279

Launiupoko Beach Park (Maui), 209

Lava Lava Beach Club Cottages (Big Island) L, 347–348

Lava Lava Beach Club Restaurant (Big Island) W, 346

Lava Light Galleries (Big Island), 349–350

Lava Tree State Monument (Big Island), 405

Lawai (Kauai), 501–502

Lawai Kai (Kauai), 495

Lei, 43–44

Leilani Farm Sanctuary (Maui), 268

Leleiwi Overlook (Maui), 262

Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop (Maui) W, 207

Leprosy, 548, 551

Lewers Lounge (Oahu), 108

Lihue (Kauai), 481–486, 488–489

Liliuokalani Gardens (Big Island), 382–386

Limahuli Garden and Preserve (Kauai), 445

Lindbergh, Charles, grave of (Maui), 278

LineUp at Wai Kai, The (Oahu), 149

Lobby Lounge at the Four Seasons Resort Maui, 241

Local Gentry, The (shop; Lanai), 574

LookOut Food and Drink, The (Oahu) W, 149

Lopa Beach (Lanai), 581

Luana Kai Resort (Maui) L, 231–232

Luau, 45–47, 109–110, 147, 152, 161, 212, 216, 228, 241, 326–327, 348–349, 352, 355, 480

Lumahai Beach (Kauai), 450

Lydgate State Park (Kauai), 449, 474

Lyman Museum and Mission House (Big Island), 378

Lyon Arboretum (Oahu), 144

M

Maalaea (Maui), 224–225, 228

Maalaea Harbor (Maui), 224

Magnum Helicopters (Oahu), 178

Mahaulepu Beach and Makauwahi Cave (Kauai), 495–496

Mai Tai Bar at the Royal Hawaiian (Oahu), 109

Mai Tais, 108

Makaha Beach Park (Oahu), 152

Makapuu Beach Park (Oahu), 169

Makapuu Point Lighthouse Trail (Oahu), 168

Makauwahi Cave (Kauai), 495–496

Makawao (Maui), 250–253

Makena Beach State Park (Maui), 236

Makiki Heights (Oahu), 138

Mala Ocean Tavern (Maui) W, 209

Mana Foods (shop; Maui), 266

Manago Hotel (Big Island) L, 342

Manago Hotel Restaurant (Big Island) W, 340

Manele Bay (Lanai), 575–579

Manele Bay Marina (Lanai), 576

Maniniholo Dry Cave (Kauai), 445

Manoa (Oahu), 144

Manoa Falls Trail (Oahu), 186

Manta at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (Big Island) W, 354

Manuka State Wayside (Big Island), 408

Maui, 24, 34, 35, 198–304
accommodations, 204–206, 212, 214–216, 219–220, 223, 231–233, 239–241, 246, 265, 267, 277
beaches, 207, 209, 213, 218, 221–222, 229, 236–237, 243, 264, 266, 275–276
museums and galleries, 242, 247, 251, 253, 266
nightlife and the arts, 212, 216, 220, 223–224, 228, 233, 241, 252
prices, 206
restaurants, 206, 207, 209, 212, 214, 218–219, 222, 225, 229–231, 237–239, 243, 245–246, 248–249, 252, 254, 264–265, 266–267, 268, 276–277
shopping, 216–217, 220, 232, 233–234, 241–242, 246–247, 248, 249–250, 252–253, 254, 266, 268, 272, 278, 279
sports and outdoor activities, 217, 258–260, 279–304
tours, 251, 260, 268, 279–281, 284, 286–287, 288–289, 290–291, 298–299
transportation, 201, 204
visitor information, 206

Maui Brewing Company (Maui) W, 230

Maui Brewing Co. (Oahu) W, 109

Maui Crafts Guild, 266

Maui Eldorado Kaanapali L, 215

Maui Girl Swimwear (shop), 266

Maui Hands (shop), 266

Maui Nui Botanical Gardens, 242–243

Maui Ocean Center, 224–225

Maui Pineapple Farm and Tours, 251

Maui Tropical Plantation & Country Store, 248

MauiWine, 253–254

Mauna Kea (Big Island), 353–355

Mauna Kea Beach Luau (Big Island), 355

Mauna Kea Golf Course (Big Island), 419

Mauna Lani (Big Island), 350–353

Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection (Big Island) L, 352

Mauna Lani Golf Courses (Big Island), 419

Mauna Loa (Big Island), 375

Manau Loa Macadamia Nut Visitor Center (Big Island), 387

Mauna Ula Trail (Big Island), 404

Maunaloa (Molokai), 544

Maunakea (Big Island), 372–376

Maunakea Marketplace (Oahu), 127

Maya’s Tapas & Wine (Oahu) W, 158

Mele Ukulele (shop; Maui), 249

Merrie Monarch Festival (Big Island), 381

Merriman’s Maui W, 222

Mike Carroll Gallery (Lanai), 574

Mike Severns Diving (Maui), 290–291

Mina’s Fish House (Oahu) W, 151

Miniature golf, 453

Moana Surfrider, a Westin Resort & Spa, Waikiki Beach (Oahu) L, 103

Moiliili (Oahu), 141–142

Mokapu (Maui), 236

Mokuaikaua Church (Big Island), 318

Mokuleia Bay (Maui), 222

Mokuleia Beach Park (Oahu), 155, 157

Mokupapapa Discovery Center for Hawaii’s Remote Coral Reefs (Big Island), 378

Molokai, 25, 538–562
accommodations, 542–543, 546–547, 553, 558
beaches, 542, 544, 546, 547, 551–552, 557
history, 548
museums and galleries, 551, 554
nightlife and the arts, 543, 554
prices, 542, 543
restaurants, 543, 552–553
safety, 547
shopping, 543, 547, 554–555
sports and outdoor activities, 558–562
timing the visit, 540–541
tours, 560, 561–562
transportation, 541–542
visitor information, 543

Molokai Fish & Dive (shop), 559

Molokai Outdoors, 560

Molokai Plumerias, 549–550

Molokai Wines and Spirits (shop), 555

Montage Kapalua Bay (Maui) L, 223

Mookini Heiau (Big Island), 357

Morimoto Maui W, 238

Mountain Thunder (coffee farm; Big Island), 330–331

Mountain tubing, 529

Mrs. Barry’s Kona Cookies (shop; Big Island), 327

Munro Trail Beach (Lanai), 575

Museums and galleries

Big Island, 349–350, 356, 359, 364, 369, 372, 378, 381–382, 383, 387, 393, 403

Kauai, 481, 484, 488, 500, 507

Lanai, 571, 574

Maui, 242, 247, 251, 253, 266

Molokai, 551, 554

Oahu, 110, 113–114, 119, 121, 122, 139–140, 146, 166–167, 176

MW Restaurant (Oahu) W, 134

N

Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens & Sculpture Park (Kauai), 454

Na Hoku (shop; Big Island), 350

Na Mea Hawaii (shop; Oahu), 135

Napali Coast (Kauai), 459–468

Napali Kayak (Kauai), 528

Napili (Maui), 218–220

Napili Beach (Maui), 218

Napili Kai Beach Resort (Maui) L, 219

Napoopoo Beach (Big Island), 339–340

National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific (Oahu), 140–141

National Tropical Botanical Gardens (Kauai), 492–493

Native Intelligence (shop; Maui), 249–250

NELHA’s Hawaii Ocean Science Technology Park (Big Island), 331

Nick’s Fishmarket Maui W, 238

Nightlife and arts

Big Island, 325–327, 342, 352, 355, 356, 364, 381

Kauai, 452, 458–459, 480, 486, 500

Maui, 212, 216, 220, 223–224, 228, 233, 241, 252

Molokai, 543, 554

Oahu, 85, 88, 106, 108–110, 123, 126, 129–130, 132–133, 134–135, 147, 152, 161, 162, 172

Nobu Lanai W, 577

Noe (Oahu) W, 151

Norfolk Pine (Lanai), 571–572

North Kona (Big Island), 329–332

North Shore (Kauai), 442–468

North Shore (Maui), 262–268

North Shore (Oahu), 154–162

Nuuanu (Oahu), 140–141

Nuuanu Pali State Wayside (Oahu), 173–174

O

Oahu, 24, 34, 78–196
accommodations, 83–85, 100–108, 134, 145, 151–152, 162, 174, 176
beaches, 83, 91, 94, 105, 133, 147, 149–150, 152, 155, 157, 160–161, 167, 169, 171, 175
museums and galleries, 110, 113–114, 119, 121, 122, 139–140, 146, 166–167, 176
nightlife and the arts, 85, 88, 106, 108–110, 123, 126, 129–130, 132–133, 134–135, 147, 152, 161, 162, 172
prices, 85, 86
restaurants, 85–86, 94–95, 98–100, 123, 128–129, 131–132, 133–134, 138, 140, 141–145, 149, 150–151, 157, 158, 161, 162, 167–168, 171–172, 174
shopping, 88, 100, 110–113, 127–128, 130, 133, 135, 138, 142, 143, 145, 147, 158–159, 172
sports and outdoor activities, 176–196
tours, 86, 177–179, 181, 186–187, 188–189, 190, 192, 193–194, 196
transportation, 81–83
visitor information, 86

Oahu Market, 127–128

Off the Lip (bar; Oahu), 162

Ola Brew Co (Big Island), 325

Old Koloa Town (Kauai), 490

Old Lahaina Luau (Maui), 212

Olowalu (Maui), 206–207

One Alii Beach Park (Molokai), 551–552

1 Hotel Hanalei Bay (Kauai) L, 458

Onekahakaha Beach Park (Big Island), 389

Onizuka Center for International Astronomy Visitor Information Station (Big Island), 376

Oo Farm (Maui), 254

Opaekaa Falls (Kauai), 472

Orchidland Surfboards and Surf Shop (Big Island), 430

Orchids (Oahu) W, 99

OUTRIGGER Kaanapali Beach Hotel (Maui) L, 215

P

Pacific Fleet Submarine Museum (Pearl Harbor), 113, 119

Pacific Tsunami Museum (Big Island), 378

Pacific Vibrations (surf shop; Big Island), 430

Pacific Whale Foundation (Maui), 303

Packing, 58–59

Paddlers Restaurant and Bar (Molokai) W, 553, 554

Pahala (Big Island), 408

Pahoa Town (Big Island), 405, 407

Paia (Maui), 264–266

Paia Fishmarket Restaurant (Maui) W, 265

Palaau State Park (Molokai), 550

Pali Ke Kua Beach (Kauai), 456

Panaewa Rainforest Zoo and Gardens (Big Island), 387, 389

Paniolo Hale (Molokai) L, 546–547

Papakolea Beach (Big Island), 408, 410

Papalaua Wayside Park (Maui), 207

Papi’s Ohana (Maui) W, 218

Papohaku Beach (Molokai), 546

Paradise Helicopters (Big Island), 413

Paragliding, 284

Parker Ranch (Big Island), 360, 362

Parks, national

Haleakala National Park, 254–262

Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary, 228

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, 391–410

Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park, 330

Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge, 228–229

Kilauea Military Camp, 402

Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge and Kilauea Lighthouse, 453

Pearl Harbor National Memorial, 114

Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, 339

Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site, 355

Paulaula State Historical Park (Russian Fort Elizabeth; Kauai), 508

Pearl Harbor, 87–88, 113–120

Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum, 113–114, 119

Pearl Harbor National Memorial, 114

Pearl Harbor Visitor Center, 114

Pig and the Lady, The (Oahu) W, 128

Piilanihale Heiau (Maui), 275

Pipiwai Trail (Maui), 285–286

Pita Paradise Mediterranean Bistro (Maui) W, 238

Plants of Hawaii, 32–33, 477–479

Plate lunch tradition, 230

Poi Dog Deli (Big Island) W, 323

Poipu (Kauai), 492–501

Poipu Beach Park (Kauai), 449, 496

Poliahu Heiau (Kauai), 472

Polihua Beach (Lanai), 572

Polihale State Park (Kauai), 449, 509

Polo Beach (Maui), 236

Pololu Valley Beach (Big Island), 357–358

Polynesian Cultural Center (Oahu), 176

Post-A-Nut at Hoolehua Post Office (Molokai), 550

Prince Kuhio Park (Kauai), 493

Princeville and environs (Kauai), 453–459

Princeville Botanical Gardens (Kauai), 454

Princeville Makai Golf Club (Kauai), 522–523

Puaa Kaa State Wayside Park (Maui), 273

Puakea Ranch (Big Island) L, 359

Puna (Big Island), 391–392, 404–407

Punaluu Black Sand Beach Park (Big Island), 410

Pupukea (Oahu), 159–161

Pupukea Beach Park (Oahu), 160

Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm (Molokai), 551

Puu O Hoku Ranch (Molokai), 556

Puu o Mahuka Heiau State Historic Site (Oahu), 159

Puu Pehe (Lanai), 576

Puu Poa Beach (Kauai), 456

Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (Big Island), 339

Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site (Big Island), 355

Puuulaula Overlook (Maui), 262

Q

Queen Emma Summer Palace (Oahu), 141

Queen’s Surf Beach (Oahu), 94

Quinn’s Almost by the Sea (Big Island) W, 322

R

R. W. Meyer Sugar Mill and Molokai Museum, 551

Rafting, 288–289, 464–465, 520

Rainbow Falls (Big Island), 389

Redline Rafting (Maui), 289

Reeds Bay (Big Island), 382–386

Reeds Bay Beach Park (Big Island), 383

Restaurant at Hana-Maui Resort, The (Maui) W, 277

Restaurant Kintaro (Kauai) W, 475

Restaurants, 56

Big Island, 313–314, 320–323, 332, 340, 346–347, 350–351, 354, 356, 358, 362–363, 370, 372, 380–381, 383, 385, 390, 394, 403, 407, 410
cuisine, 28–29, 45–47, 98, 157, 230, 237

Kauai, 440–441, 450–451, 456–458, 474–476, 484–485, 490, 497–498, 503, 506, 509

Lanai, 568–569, 572–573, 577

Maui, 206, 207, 209, 212, 214, 218–219, 222, 225, 229–231, 237–239, 243, 245–246, 248–249, 252, 254, 264–265, 266–267, 268, 276–277

Molokai, 543, 552–553

Oahu, 85–86, 94–95, 98–100, 123, 128–129, 131–132, 133–134, 138, 140, 141–145, 149, 150–151, 157, 158, 161, 162, 167–168, 171–172, 174

Richardson Ocean Park and Leleiwi Beach Park (Big Island), 389

Ridesharing, 82

Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua L, 223

Riverboat tours, 520–521

Road to Hana (Maui), 268–278

Royal Hawaiian, a Luxury Collection Resort, Waikiki (Oahu) L, 106

Royal Hawaiian Center (shop; Oahu), 112–113

Royal Hawaiian Golf Club (Oahu), 184

Royal Kona Coffee Center and Coffee Mill (Big Island), 339

S

Safety concerns, 59–60, 221, 297, 374, 401, 547, 581

St. Joseph Mission Church (Molokai), 556–557

Salt Pond Beach Park (Kauai), 505

Sam Sato’s (Maui) W, 249

Sandy Beach Park (Oahu), 167

Sans Souci (Kaimana) Beach (Oahu), 91, 94

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar (Maui) W, 222

Scuba diving, 189–190, 289–291, 424–426, 529–531, 560–561, 579, 581

Sea House Restaurant Maui) W, 219

Seafood Bar and Grill (Big Island) W, 356

Seal-spotting, 495

Seascape Restaurant (Maui) W, 225

Seaside Restaurant and Aqua Farm, The (Big Island) W, 390

Senia (Oahu) W, 128–129

Sensei Lanai, a Four Seasons Resort L, 573

Shangri La Museum of Islamic Art, Culture & Design (Oahu), 122, 166–167

Shave ice, 237

Sheraton Kauai Resort L, 500

Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa L, 215

Sheraton Waikiki Beach Resort (Oahu) L, 106–107

Shopping, 30–31

Big Island, 314, 324, 327–329, 348, 349–350, 352–353, 356–357, 359, 364–365, 369, 372, 377, 381–382, 386, 391, 393, 403

Kauai, 452, 459, 480–481, 486, 488–489, 492, 500–502, 503, 505, 506, 512

Lanai, 573–574

Maui, 216–217, 220, 232, 233–234, 241–242, 246–247, 248, 249–250, 252–253, 254, 266, 268, 272, 278, 279

Molokai, 543, 547, 554–555

Oahu, 88, 100, 110–113, 127–128, 130, 133, 135, 138, 142, 143, 145, 147, 158–159, 172

Shops at Kukuiula, The (Kauai), 501

Silver Moon Emporium (Oahu), 158–159

Slack Key Show: Masters of Hawaiian Music (Maui), 220

Sleeping Giant (Kauai), 472

Smith Family Garden Luau (Kauai), 480

Snorkeling, 190–192, 291–299, 426–428, 531, 561, 579

Sombat’s Fresh Thai Cuisine (Big Island) W, 385

Son’z Steakhouse (Maui) W, 214

South Kona (Big Island), 336–342

South Pacific Kayaks (Maui), 288

South Shore (Kauai), 489–502

South Shore (Maui), 224–242

Spas, 561, 579

Spencer Park at Ohaiula Beach (Big Island), 356

Sports and the outdoors

Big Island, 410–432

Kauai, 449, 453, 462–467, 495, 512–535

Lanai, 574–575, 577–579, 581

Maui, 217, 258–260, 279–304

Molokai, 558–562

Oahu, 176–196

Spouting Horn (Kauai), 493

Stand-up paddleboarding, 192–193, 299–300, 428, 449, 531–532

Steam Vents and Sulfur Banks (Big Island), 402–403

Stillwell’s Bakery & Cafe (Maui) W, 249

Submarine tours, 193–194, 429

Sugar Coast Candy (shop; Big Island), 382

Summit Area (Big Island), 395, 398, 402–403

Sunset Beach Park (Oahu), 160

Surfing, 194–195, 300–301, 429–430, 449, 532–534, 579

T

T. Komoda Store and Bakery (Maui) W, 252

Talk Story Bookstore (Kauai), 506

Tantalus and Round Top Drive (Oahu), 138

Tasting Room, The (Kauai) W, 490

Taxes, 60

Taxis, 83

Te Au Moana (luau; Maui), 241

Tex Drive-In (Big Island) W, 370

Theater, 364

Thurston Lava Tube (Big Island), 403

Tidepools (Kauai) W, 498

Tiki’s Grill and Bar (Oahu) W, 100

Timing the visit, 61

Tin Roof (Maui) W, 245

Tipping, 60–61

Titus Kinimaka’s Hawaiian School of Surfing (Kauai), 534

Tommy Bahama (Maui) W, 238–239

Tours

Big Island, 314, 362, 365–366, 374–376, 392, 411–413, 414, 415–416, 421–422, 423–424, 425–426, 427–428, 429, 431

Kauai, 441–442, 462–467, 513–514, 516–521, 526, 528–529, 530–531, 534–535

Maui, 251, 260, 268, 279–281, 284, 286–287, 288–289, 290–291, 298–299

Molokai, 560, 561–562

Oahu, 86, 177–179, 181, 186–187, 188–189, 190, 192, 193–194, 196

Train travel, 83

Transportation, 52–55, 76

Big Island, 309–310

Kauai, 437, 440

Lanai, 567–568

Maui, 201, 204

Molokai, 541–542

Oahu, 81–83

Tree Tunnel (Kauai), 490

Trilogy Excursions (Maui), 289, 299

Turtle Bay (Oahu), 161

Turtle Bay Resort (Oahu) L, 162

Twin Falls (Maui), 270

Two Ladies Kitchen (shop; Big Island), 382

U

Ulua (Maui), 236

ULU Ocean Grill (Big Island) W, 332

Ulukou Beach (Oahu), 91

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice (Maui) W, 265

Ulupo Heiau State Historical Site (Oahu), 169

Umekes Fish Market Bar & Grill (Big Island) W, 323

UMI by Vikram Garg (Oahu) W, 100

Upcountry (Maui), 250–262

Upcountry Farmers’ Market (Maui), 254

Arizona (USS Arizona Memorial [Pearl Harbor]), 114, 117

Bowfin (USS Bowfin [Pearl Harbor]), 119

Missouri (USS Missouri [Pearl Harbor]), 113, 118

V

Vacation rentals, 311, 313

VANA (Maui) W, 265

Visitor information, 76, 86, 206, 314, 442, 543

Vocabulary, 62–65

Volcano Art Center Gallery (Big Island), 403

Volcano Farmers’ Market (Big Island), 393

Volcano Garden Arts (Big Island), 393

Volcano House (Big Island) L, 403

Volcano Village (Big Island), 392–395

Volcano Village Lodge (Big Island) L, 395

Volcano Winery (Big Island), 394

Volcanoes, 262, 333–335, 375, 391–410

W

Wahiawa (Oahu), 153–154

Waiahole Poi Factory (Oahu) W, 174

Waialua (Oahu), 154–155, 157

Waialua Beach Park (Molokai), 557

Waianae (Oahu), 152

Waianapanapa State Park (Maui), 275

Waiaopae Fishpond (Lanai), 580

Waikamoi Nature Trail (Maui), 270

Waikiki, 88–113

Waikiki Aquarium, 90–91

Waikiki Food Hall (Oahu) W, 100

Waikoloa (Big Island), 343, 346–350

Waikoloa Beach Resort (Big Island), 419

Wailea (Maui), 234–242

Wailea Beach (Maui), 236–237

Wailea Beach Path (Maui), 236

Wailea Beach Resort – Marriott, Maui L, 240

Wailea Golf Club (Maui), 284

Wailoa Center (Big Island), 383

Wailua (Kauai), 469–476, 480–481

Wailua Beach (Kauai), 449, 474

Wailua Falls (Kauai), 472

Wailua Falls (Maui), 279

Wailua Overlook (Maui), 273

Wailuku (Maui), 247–250

Waimanalo (Oahu), 168–169

Waimanalo Bay Beach Park (Oahu), 169

Waimea (Big Island), 342–343, 359–365

Waimea and Waimea Canyon (Kauai), 506–512, 525–526

Waimea Bay Beach Park (Oahu), 160–161

Waimea General Store (Big Island), 364

Waimea Plantation Cottages (Kauai) L, 509, 512

Waimea Valley (Oahu), 160

Waiohai Beach (Kauai), 449, 497

Waioli Kitchen & Bake Shop (Oahu) W, 144

Waioli Mission House (Kauai), 445

Waipio Valley (Big Island), 366, 369

Waipio Valley Lookout (Big Island), 369

Wally’s Lobby Bar at Hukilau Lanai (Kauai), 480

Weddings, 37

Welina Terrace (Kauai) W, 457

West (Leeward) Oahu, 145–154

West Maui, 206–224

West Molokai, 544, 546–547

West Side (Kauai), 502–512

Wildfires, 208

Wine Shop, The (Kauai), 492

Whale-watching, 196, 228, 301–303, 430–431, 534–535, 561–562

Whalers Cove Resort (Kauai) L, 500

Whalers Village (shops; Maui), 217

White Plains Beach (Oahu), 147

Windsurfing, 303–304

Windward (East) Oahu, 162–176

Windward Lanai, 579–581

Windward Oahu Villages, 173

Wood Valley Temple (Big Island), 408

Z

Zip-lining, 304, 432, 535, 575

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

Publisher: Stephen Horowitz, General Manager

Editorial: Douglas Stallings, Editorial Director; Jill Fergus, Amanda Sadlowski, Senior Editors; Brian Eschrich, Alexis Kelly, Editors; Angelique Kennedy-Chavannes, Yoojin Shin, Associate Editors

Design: Tina Malaney, Director of Design and Production; Jessica Gonzalez, Senior Designer; Jaimee Shaye, Graphic Design Associate

Production: Jennifer DePrima, Editorial Production Manager; Elyse Rozelle, Senior Production Editor; Monica White, Production Editor

Maps: Rebecca Baer, Map Director; David Lindroth, Mark Stroud (Moon Street Cartography), Cartographers

Photography: Viviane Teles, Director of Photography; Namrata Aggarwal, Neha Gupta, Payal Gupta, Ashok Kumar, Photo Editors; Jade Rodgers, Shanelle Jacobs, Photo Production Interns

Business and Operations: Chuck Hoover, Chief Marketing Officer; Robert Ames, Group General Manager

Public Relations and Marketing: Joe Ewaskiw, Senior Director of Communications and Public Relations

Fodors.com: Jeremy Tarr, Editorial Director; Rachael Levitt, Managing Editor

Technology: Jon Atkinson, Executive Director of Technology; Rudresh Teotia, Associate Director of Technology; Alison Lieu, Project Manager

Writers: Karen Anderson, Kristina Anderson, Powell Berger, Marla Cimini, Joan Conrow, Cheryl Crabtree, Laurie Lyons-Makaimoku, Syndi Halualani Texeira, Anna Weaver, Mary F. Williamson

Editor: Douglas Stallings

Production Editor: Monica White

Copyright © 2025 by Fodor’s Travel, a division of MH Sub I, LLC, dba Internet Brands.

Fodor’s is a registered trademark of Internet Brands, Inc. All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Fodor’s Travel, a division of Internet Brands, Inc. No maps, illustrations, or other portions of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

5th Edition

ISBN 9781640977655

ISSN 2471-9056

All details in this book are based on information supplied to us at press time. Always confirm information when it matters, especially if you’re making a detour to visit a specific place. Fodor’s expressly disclaims any liability, loss, or risk, personal or otherwise, that is incurred as a consequence of the use of any of the contents of this book.

PHOTO CREDITS

Front cover: Chrys35/Getty Images [Descr.: Beautiful sunset sky over the tropical Iao Valley on Maui.] Chapter 1: Experience Hawaii: ImagineGolf/iStockphoto. Chapter 3: Oahu: Izabela23/Shutterstock. Chapter 4: Maui: NIntellectual/iStockphoto.mChapter 5: The Big Island of Hawaii: Atommy/Shutterstock. Chapter 6: Kauai: Kumakuma1216/iStockphoto. Chapter 7: Molokai: Kridsada Kamsombat/iStockphoto. Chapter 8: Lanai: Islandleigh/Dreamstime.*Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders, and we apologize in advance for any accidental errors. We would be happy to apply the corrections in the following edition of this publication.

v5.3.2
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About Our Writers

Karen Anderson resides in Kona, Hawaii, and works as a freelance journalist, managing editor, and professional photographer. She is the managing editor of At Home, Living with Style in West Hawaii. She also writes for a variety of publications including West Hawaii Today, Hawaii Island Midweek, Hawaii Luxury Magazine, Ke Ola Magazine, Hawaii Drive Magazine, Edible Hawaiian Islands Magazine, and USA Today Travel Tips. Karen is the author of The Hawaii Home Book: Practical Tips for Tropical Living, which received the Award of Excellence from the Hawaii Book Publishers Association. Her monthly humor column is known throughout the Big Island. She also writes the weekly “Onolicious Dining Guide” for West Hawaii Today, as well as feature articles for local real estate publications. She is the longtime advertising/marketing chairperson for the annual King Kamehameha Day Celebration Parade in Kailua-Kona. Karen updated portions of the Big Island of Hawaii.

Kristina Anderson has been writing professionally for more than 30 years. After working as an advertising copywriter and creative director in Southern California for more than a decade, she moved to Hawaii in 1992 and began working as a senior copywriter and broadcast producer for Hawaii agencies and client direct. Since 2006, she has also written for national and regional publications, most notably for At Home in West Hawaii magazine, which profiled a variety of homes—from coffee shacks to resort mansions—and for Hawaii Island Midweek magazine. When there’s time, she runs, paddles outrigger canoes competitively, and plays tennis very noncompetitively. Her brightest accomplishment of all, however, is raising twin sons as a single mom. For this book, Kristina updated portions of the Big Island of Hawaii.

Powell Berger lives in the heart of Honolulu’s Kakaako neighborhood, where she’s ever in search of the best poke bowl. When not in Honolulu, she’s in Durham, North Carolina, where she enjoys family, beaches that are lovely but don’t measure up to Hawaii’s, and no decent poke bowls. Her wanderlust has taken her to more than 50 countries around the world, and her writing appears in numerous state and regional publications, AAA magazines, The Atlantic, and various websites, in addition to Fodor’s. Powell updated portions of Oahu.

Marla Cimini (wwww.marlacimini.com) is an award-winning writer with a passion for travel, beaches, music, and culinary adventures. As an avid globetrotter and frequent Oahu visitor, she has covered topics such as Hawaii’s luxury hotels, fascinating and fun surf culture, and the innovative restaurant scene on the Islands. She appreciates Oahu’s unique dichotomy, and enjoys the bustling Waikiki neighborhood as much as exploring the island’s quieter beaches. Marla’s articles have appeared in numerous publications worldwide, including USA Today. Marla updated portions of Oahu.

Joan Conrow is a longtime journalist and editor who has written extensively about Hawaii politics, culture, environment, travel, and lifestyles for many regional and national publications. Joan lived on Kauai for nearly 30 years before relocating to the high desert of New Mexico. She helped write the original Fodor’s guide to Kauai. For this edition, she updated portions of Kauai.

Cheryl Crabtree first visited Hawaii as a kindergartner, a trip that sparked a lifelong passion for the Islands and led to frequent visits. She spends months at a time in residence on Oahu’s North Shore. Cheryl has also contributed to Fodor’s California for more than two decades and is a regular updater for Fodor’s The Complete National Parks of the USA. She also contributes to numerous regional, national, and international publications. She updated portions of Oahu and Kauai.

Laurie Lyons-Makaimoku began travel writing in 2014, soon after receiving her master’s degree in New Media Journalism. The former editor of Austin.com, she moved to the Big Island of Hawaii in 2016, where she had the opportunity to start writing about the special place that she now called home for Fodor’s, The Matador Network, HAWAII Magazine, and Local Getaways. After marrying into a Hawaiian family, Laurie developed a deep passion for ethical, regenerative travel, especially how it affects the quality of life and land in the Islands. When she’s not island-hopping to take in all she can throughout Hawaii’s diverse landscapes, Laurie spends most of her weekends exploring the dynamic shorelines of East Hawaii, chasing sunshine on the west side of the Big Island, and constantly growing her knowledge of and palate for the eclectic cuisines that make up Hawaii’s ever-evolving food scene. She shares her home with her husband, two children, and a menagerie of rescue animals. She updated portions of Maui.

Syndi Halualani Texeira is a native Hawaiian, small-town girl who was born and raised on the Big Island of Hawaii. Though she has traveled the world, including living in California, Washington, D.C., New York, Paris, and Monaco, her heart always belongs to Hawaii. After working with two of the most prominent media firms in the nation, Syndi has made her way back home to Hawaii, focusing her professional efforts on helping visitors embrace culturally sensitive and regenerative travel to Hawaii. Syndi enjoys time with her ohana, and her pets, traveling, reading, and advocating for indigenous rights. She also serves as Executive Director of a Hawaii Island nonprofit animal rescue organization. She updated portions of Maui.

Writer and multimedia journalist Anna Weaver was born and raised in Kailua, Oahu, and is proud of her Portuguese immigrant roots in the Islands. She can never get enough of Spam musubi, malasadas, or the gorgeous Koolau Mountains in her home state. Anna has written for Slate, Simplemost, and Hawaii publications such as the Honolulu Star-Advertiser, Honolulu Magazine, and Pacific Business News. In this guide, she updated portions of Oahu.

Mary F. Williamson grew up in Honolulu and now lives on Kauai, where her husband’s family moved in the late 1800s. A former nonprofit director, she now organizes bicycle races and helps small businesses and organizations with public communication and events. For this edition, she updated portions of Kauai.