Fodor's France 2015
Author: Fodor's Travel Guides
Date: 2014-08-07 00:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Travel
Description: Written by locals, Fodor's travel guides have been offering expert advice for all tastes and budgets for 80 years. Paris is just the beginning: France's memorable sights—-from sprawling Versailles to lofty Mont-St-Michel—- have made it mainland Europe's most popular destination. This edition delivers can't-miss trips for America's more than 2 million France-bound travelers, whether beginners or veterans. This travel guide includes: · Dozens of full-color maps · Hundreds of hotel and restaurant recommendations, with Fodor's Choice designating our top picks · Multiple itineraries to explore the
Publisher: Fodor's Travel

Images of France

France Maps

Experience France

Paris

Ile-de-France

The Loire Valley

Normandy

Brittany

Champagne Country

Alsace-Lorraine

Burgundy

Lyon and the Alps

Provence

The French Riviera

Corsica

The Midi-Pyrénées and Languedoc-Roussillon

The Basque Country, Gascony, and the Hautes-Pyrénées

Bordeaux and the Wine Country

The Dordogne

Travel Smart France

About Our Writers

Credits and Copyright

Main Table of Contents

EXPERIENCE FRANCE

Paris Neighborhoods

PARIS

Ile de la Cité, Ile-St-Louis, and the Quartier Latin

From Notre-Dame to Place de la Concorde

Around the Eiffel Tower & the Arc de Triomphe

The Faubourg St-Honoré and Les Halles

Les Grands Boulevards

Montmartre

Le Marais and the Bastille

From Orsay to St-Germain-des-Prés

ILE-DE-FRANCE

Western Ile de France

Eastern Ile de France

Fontainebleau

LOIRE VALLEY

The Eastern Loire Valley

Tours

Orléans

Central and Western Loire Valley

NORMANDY

Upper Normandy

Rouen

Lower Normandy

BRITTANY

Vitré to Dinard

Paimpol to Trébeurden

Brittany’s Atlantic Coast: East

Brittany’s Atlantic Coast: West

Nantes

CHAMPAGNE COUNTRY

Champagne

Reims

The Cathedral Cities

ALSACE-LORRAINE

Nancy

Lorraine

Strasbourg

Alsace

BURGUNDY

Northwest Burgundy

Troyes

Dijon

Burgundy’s Wine Country

LYON AND THE ALPS

Lyon: Presqu’île and The Croix Rousse

Beaujolais and Rhône Valley

Grenoble and the Alps

Grenoble

PROVENCE

Arles, the Camargue, and the Alpilles

Arles

Nîmes

Avignon

Around Avignon

The Vaucluse

Aix-en-Provence

Marseille

Aix-en-Provence and the Mediterranean Coast

FRENCH RIVIERA

The Western French Riviera

St-Tropez

The Hill Towns

Nice

The Eastern French Riviera

Monaco

CORSICA

Corse du Sud

Haute Corse

MIDI-PYRENEES AND LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Toulouse

Languedoc-Roussillon

Montpellier

THE BASQUE COUNTRY, GASCONY, AND HAUTES-PYRENEES

Basque Coast and the Atlantic Pyrénées

The Hautes Pyrénées

BORDEAUX AND THE WINE COUNTRY

Bordeaux

Bordeaux’s Wine Country

THE DORDOGNE

The Dordogne

Main Table of Contents

France Today

What’s Where

France Planner

Getting Around

Top Attractions

Top Experiences

Quintessential France

If You Like

History You Can See

Great Itineraries

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It may be a cliché to say the French fret over their place in the world, but they do. Faced with the ever-dominant Anglo-American axis and hobbled by the global economic crisis, the French are rallying to protect their institutions, their language, and, above all, la vie française—their treasured lifestyle. Still, polls show the French are optimistic about the future—and there’s plenty of good news.

Tourism is thriving, with France maintaining its rank as the world’s top tourist destination, with more than 80 million visitors each year. The French remain leaders in science and technology. France is the world’s leading producer of luxury goods, and fashion remains the nation’s birthright. Dining in Paris has never been better, with the city experiencing a vibrant emergence of smaller, lower-priced bistros concentrating on quality and terroir, the local bounty that France is famous for.

TURNING IN THEIR STARS

Several of France’s acclaimed chefs, including Alain Senderens and Olivier Roellinger, have handed in their Michelin stars and bowed out of the fast track in favor of smaller, less formal settings. The global crisis and changing lifestyles have deeply influenced a new generation of chefs seeking a more modern approach to cooking, yet still eager to strut their stuff for an educated, ever-appreciative audience. All of these trends have culminated in a movement that’s taken France by storm—bistronomie.

Well underway since the late 1990s, the bistronomie movement is now in full swing, with exciting new restaurants opening in Paris every month. A hybrid of “bistrot” and “gastronomy,” bistronomie broadly defines a new breed of bistro, run by ambitious young chefs who combine rigorous haute cuisine training with a more laid-back, individual, and creative approach. As the irreverent foodie publications Omnivore and Le Fooding—viewed as little more than cheeky upstarts when they appeared a decade ago—have evolved into major forces behind the movement, people have taken notice.

Bistronomie dovetails with other popular movements—like the locavores, who advocate the use of fresh, local ingredients, and the trend toward natural and biodynamic wines, which are grown without the use of chemical fertilizers and produced with less sulfites. An international roster of passionate young chefs has also invigorated the movement, with no single approach stealing the limelight.

MARRIAGE EQUALITY

After a national discussion that had lasted more than a decade, France passed a law allowing same-sex marriage in 2013. In a country where most people believe the government should stay out of personal relationships, the debate was particularly acrimonious. A group called La Manif Pour Tous staged massive, colorful demonstrations in Paris, Lyon, and other major cities.

François Hollande’s Socialist government easily won passage of the law, and changed many minds in the process. At the time the law passed, polls found that about 53% of French adults favored same-sex marriage. In 2014, less than a year later, that number had jumped to 61%.

But Hollande also burned a lot of bridges along the way. In 2014, after another round of protests, his government announced that it would not push ahead with legislation to help gay couples adopt or use surrogate mothers.

MADAME–MADEMOISELLE

The French government made a long-overdue concession to French feminists, finally enforcing a law that excises the honorific Mademoiselle from official forms, and advising that all women now be referred to as Madame regardless of marital status. What took France so long?

A deep ambivalence on the part of both men and women regarding gender roles certainly plays a part. As does the kind of entrenched inequality that puts France at a surprising number 46 on the World Economic Forum’s Global Pay Gap survey—well behind Britain, Germany, and even Kazakhstan—with men earning wages an average of 12% to 20% higher than women. Attitudes here are slow to change, and with so few female legislators, another area where France lags behind other nations, it seems that French women have their work cut out for them.

PITY THE RICH

French millionaires can relax—for now. In December, France’s Constitutional Council struck down incoming president Francois Hollande’s proposed 75% tax on individuals earning more than €1 million just days before it was to take effect. Hollande may have clinched the presidential office with the election promise of pushing through this tax, and so far he’s refused to back down, even though some people assert that it will cause wealthy people to leave the country. Already, two prominent Parisians, Gérard Depardieu, France’s most famous actor, and Bernard Arnault, its richest citizen and chairman of the French LVMH luxury group, are preparing to jump ship. Depardieu, courted by none other than Russia’s Vladimir Putin, put his 20,000-square-foot mansion in Paris’s elegant 7th arrondissement up for sale, and Arnault has requested citizenship from neighboring Belgium. Even the ex-president has been implicated in the scandale. Nicholas Sarkozy set France abuzz when his plan to vacate Paris and start up a hedge fund with a group of wealthy investors in London was uncovered during a police raid on the scandal-ridden former president’s property.

From a distance, an income tax this steep may seem like madness. But the French have long reconciled themselves to higher taxes in the interest of a fundamental French value, égalité, reaping the benefits in the form of one of the world’s best health care systems, low-cost education, universal child care, and a plethora of social safety nets. With the global crisis, however, preserving the French quality of life is an ever more delicate balancing act. Whether President Hollande is up to the task remains to be seen, and this battle may be a decisive one.

DRIVING SMART

Paris has taken another big step toward mitigating the noise, pollution, and congestion caused by the city’s automobile traffic. The dapper four-seat, fully electric Bluecar has finished its test run and is now available at 500 stations around the city.

Based on the successful Velib’ bicycle exchange, which boasts more than 20,000 bicycles and is still growing, the Autolib’ program allows cars to be taken from one of the semicircular metal-and-glass stations to any point in Paris, and 56 suburban destinations. After a nominal subscription rate, each ride is paid for in half-hour increments, costing €4–€8.

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Paris. A quayside vista that takes in the Seine, a passing boat, Notre-Dame, the Eiffel Tower, and mansard roofs all in one generous sweep is enough to convince you that Paris is indeed the most beautiful city on Earth.

Ile-de-France. Appearing like all France in miniature, the Ile-de-France region is the nation’s heartland. Here Louis XIV built vainglorious Versailles, Chartres brings the faithful to their knees, and Monet’s Giverny enchants all.

Loire Valley. Chenonceaux, Chambord, and Saumur—the parade of royal and near-royal châteaux magnificently captures France’s golden age of monarchy in an idyllic region threaded by the Loire River.

Normandy. Sculpted with cliff-lined coasts, Normandy has been home to saints and sculptors, painters and poets, with a dramatic past marked by Mont-St-Michel’s majestic abbey, Rouen’s towering cathedral, and the D-Day beaches.

Brittany. A long arm of rocky land stretching into the Atlantic, Brittany is a place unto itself, with its own language, customs, and time-defying towns such as Gauguin’s Pont-Aven and the pirate haven of St-Malo.

Champagne Country. The capital of bubbly is Reims, set near four great Gothic cathedrals and the beginning of the scenic Route de Champagne.

Alsace-Lorraine. Although this region bordered by the Rhine often looks German and sounds German, its main sights—18th-century Nancy, medieval Strasbourg, and the lovely Route du Vin—remain proudly French.

Burgundy. Hallowed ground for wine lovers, Burgundy hardly needs to be beautiful—but it is. Around the gastronomic hub of Dijon, the region is famed for its verdant vineyards and Romanesque churches.

Lyon and the Alps. Local chefs rival their Parisian counterparts in treasure-filled Lyon, heart of a diverse region where you ski down Mont Blanc or take a heady trip along the Beaujolais Wine Road.

Provence. Famed for its Lavender Route, the honey-gold hill towns of the Luberon, and vibrant cities like Aix and Marseilles, this region was dazzlingly abstracted into vivid daubs of paint by Van Gogh and Cézanne.

French Riviera (Côte d’Azur). From glamorous St-Tropez through beauteous Antibes to sophisticated Nice, this sprawl of pebble beaches and zillion-dollar houses has always captivated sun lovers and socialites.

Monaco. Take the high-rises of Hong Kong, add the amusement-park feel of Disneyland, and mix in a royal touch, and there you have Monte Carlo—all 473 acres of it. Monaco remains the playground of royalty.

Corsica. Corsica’s gifts of artistic and archaeological treasures, crystalline waters, granite peaks, lush vineyards, and pine forests add up to one of France’s most unspoiled sanctuaries.

Midi-Pyrénées and Languedoc-Roussillon. Rose-hue Toulouse, once-upon-a-time-ified Carcassone, and the Matisse-beloved Vermillion Coast are among southwest France’s most colorful sights.

Basque Country, Gascony, and the Hautes-Pyrénées. Whether you head for Bay of Biscay resorts like Biarritz, coastal villages such as St-Jean-de-Luz, or the Pyrenean peaks, this region will cast a spell.

Bordeaux and the Wine Country. The wines of Bordeaux tower as a standard against which others are measured, and they made the city of Bordeaux rich and owners of its vineyards—like Château Lafite-Rothschild—even richer.

The Dordogne. One of the hottest destinations in France, the Dordogne is a stone-cottage pastorale studded with fairy-tale castles, storybook villages, and France’s top prehistoric sights.

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When to Go | Getting Here | Getting Around | Tips on Eating and Staying | Hours | French Etiquette

WHEN TO GO

Summer is the most popular (and expensive) season. July in Paris is crowded and can be hot, although the Paris Plage, the “beach” on the banks of the Seine, is popular with locals and tourists alike. From mid-July to early August is le grand départ, when Parisians exit the city en masse, leaving Paris to the tourists. The Riviera sparkles in August—but the notorious embouteillages (traffic jams) on the drive south from Paris can make you wish you stayed home.

Famously fickle weather means you never know what to expect in Normandy and Brittany, where picture-postcard villages and languorous sandy beaches are never jam-packed.

September is gorgeous, with temperate weather, saner airfares, and cultural events scheduled specifically for the return from summer vacation.

Another good time to visit is in late spring, just before the masses arrive, when the sun sets after 9 pm and cafés are abuzz.

Unless you’re skiing in the Alps, winter is the least appealing time to come, though it’s the best time to find less expensive airfares and hotel deals—and escape the crowds.

GETTING HERE

There are two major gateway airports to France just outside the capital: Orly, 16 km (10 miles) south of Paris, and Charles de Gaulle, 26 km (16 miles) northeast of the city. At Charles de Gaulle, also known as Roissy, there’s a TGV (train à grande vitesse) station at Terminal 2, where you can connect to high-speed trains going all over the country.

GETTING AROUND

Once in France, the best way to travel is by train, either high-speed TGV or regional train. A France Rail Pass allows one to nine days of unlimited train travel in a one-month period. With train service efficient and enjoyable, long-distance bus service is rarely used, though there are some regional buses that cover areas where train service is spotty.

If you’re traveling by car, there are excellent links between Paris and most French cities, and more meandering ones between the provinces. For the fastest route between two points, look for roads marked for autoroute. A péage (toll) must be paid on most expressways: the rate varies, but can be steep. Note that gas prices are also steep, upward of €1.40 a liter, or about $7 a gallon.

Car rentals are about equal in price to those in United States, and by far the best (or only) way to see remote corners of the lovely French countryside. To get the best rate, book a rental car at home, and well in advance if you’re planning a trip in summer and early fall. If you want automatic transmission, which can be more expensive, be sure to ask for it when you reserve.

Here’s a good tip: if you’re traveling from Paris, a practical option is to take the TGV to the large city nearest your destination and rent a car there. Most rental car companies have their pickup locations at the train stations.

TIPS ON EATING AND STAYING

Restaurants follow French mealtimes, serving lunch from noon to 2 or 2:30 and dinner from 7 or 7:30 on. Some cafés and brasseries in larger cities serve food all day long. Always reserve a table for dinner, as top restaurants book up to months in advance. You must ask for the check (it’s considered rude to bring it unbidden) except in cafés, where a register slip often comes with your order.

Gratuities (servis) are included in the bill, but leave some small change on the table: a few cents for drinks, €1 for lunch, or €5 at dinner. You can leave more at a top restaurant, but note that more than 10% is considered extremely generous.

To save money on food, take advantage of France’s wonderful outdoor markets and chain supermarkets. Just about every town has its own market a couple of times a week. Ask the people at the front desk of wherever you’re staying to find out when market days are. For supermarkets, the largest chain is Carrefour, although Monoprix, another national chain, is of a higher quality.

Some of the bigger stores have cafés, as well as minidepartment stores that sell everything from clothing to children’s toys to toiletries.

French cities generally have good hotel options at decent prices, including furnished apartments, at all price levels.

In the countryside, seek out chambres d’hôtes (bed-and-breakfasts), which can mean anything from a modest room in a host’s home to a grand suite in a Norman château or Provençal farmhouse. Or rent a gîte rural, a furnished apartment, often on a farm or a larger property.

HOURS

In Paris and larger cities, store hours are generally 10 am to 7:30 pm; smaller shops may open later. Elsewhere, expect stores to close in the afternoon, usually 2–4. Museums are closed one day a week, often Tuesday. As a general rule, shops close on Sunday, though markets, and many food stores, are open in the morning.

FRENCH ETIQUETTE

The French reputation for rudeness is undeserved. In fact, they are sticklers for politesse and exchanging formal greetings is the rule. Informal American-style manners are considered impolite. Beginning an exchange with a simple “Do you speak English?” will get you on the right foot. Learning a few key French words will take you far. Offer a hearty bonjour (bohn-zhoor) when walking into a shop or café and an au revoir (o ruh-vwahr) when leaving, even if nobody seems to be listening (a chorus may reply). When speaking to a woman over age 16, use madame (ma-dam), literally “my lady.” For a young woman or girl, use mademoiselle (mad-mwa-zel). A man of any age goes by monsieur (murh-syur). Always say please, s’il vous plaît (seel-voo-play), and thank you, merci (mehr-see).

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Bus Travel | Car Travel | Train Travel | Air Travel

BUS TRAVEL

Because France has invested so dearly in its highly organized national rail network and well-connected highway system, nationwide bus service simply doesn’t exist.

Eurolines offers only international routes, so you can get in or out of the country, but there are no routes connecting the big cities within France.

Happily, domestic bus travel is managed regionally, usually serving small rural communities or replacing SNCF train routes that are no longer commercially viable.

These bus routes, however, tend to be slow, with confusing schedules posted online (and rarely in English). Still, they can often be a cheap and direct way to travel short distances. Remember that it is always useful to visit the local tourist office or the central bus depot for schedules and tickets.

CAR TRAVEL

Although the French train network is quite vast, smaller towns—especially in harder-to-reach or mountainous regions—may have only limited schedules. And because many route hubs are in major cities such as Paris, Lyon, Nantes, and Bordeaux, there’s often a lack of direct routes in between these smaller towns, requiring a circuitous trajectory to cover a relatively short distance. This isn’t a big deal for visitors with plenty of extra time who are flexible in their travel plans.

But if you’re seeking the maximum amount of freedom to explore France off the beaten path, then a rental car is definitely your best option.

France’s highways, or autoroutes (A), are well maintained, and generally traffic-free outside certain holidays and metropolitan areas during rush hour, but with so much natural beauty, charming villages, and interesting sights along the way, we would recommend sticking to the national trunk roads, or Routes Nationales (RN), which allow you to easily stop to see a local site, pick up some fresh produce at a farm, or pull over for a picnic at a forest or lakeside park.

Of course, driving in France requires a valid license from your home country, a bit of talent with a map (as a backup to any GPS system), and enough knowledge about the local road rules to stay out of trouble.

Although there are many pluses to driving a car, there are important minuses. One of the biggest expenses of your trip can wind up being the gasoline, which has been hovering around €1.40/liter (or €7 gallon) at this writing. In addition, signage in France, though generally very good, once you’ve got the hang of how it works, can be spotty in more remote places—we’ve heard horror stories about half-hour trips turning into two-hour ordeals.

Finally, there is the obstacle course that is parking, with travelers to French cities having to run the gauntlet of meters, parking-ticket machines, parking cards (cartes de stationnements), chaotic rush-hour traffic, and the eternal search for an overnight garage.

TRAIN TRAVEL

The next best thing to flying, and generally more convenient, is traveling by France’s efficient railways, from regional trains connecting small towns and villages all over the country to the high-speed TGVs serving major cities.

The best thing about the trains is that the stations are usually right in the center of town, and in the case of Paris, Lyon, Marseilles, and other major cities, connected to the métro. This means that backpackers can find a hotel within walking distance of the train station without worrying about long, expensive taxi rides to and from the airport.

Traveling by train also eliminates long security checks and excess baggage fees, and you get to enjoy the scenery as you travel.

Managed by the SNCF, trains reach almost every corner of France, including about 60 cities by TGV, and thousands more under the regional rail lines including Téoz (Paris, Bordeaux, Nice, Perpignan, and Clermont-Ferrand), the Lunéa sleeper trains (which have first-class, second-class, and reclining-seat options starting at €20), iDTGV theme trains (choose “zen-,” “games-,” or “nightclub”-themed atmospheres on 20 routes), and the “TER” (Transport Express Régional) medium-distance trains serving the different French regions.

For instance, the Ile-de-France départment surrounding Paris is served by the Transilien network, which links to the suburban Paris commuter rail known as the “RER” (Réseau Express Régional) and the Paris Métropolitan, or métro.

Aside from these Paris networks, which are part of the Parisian Transportation Authority known as the “RATP” (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens), all trains in France are managed by the French National Railway, or “SNCF” (Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Français).

This makes it a lot easier for travelers to find the best ticket whether it’s by TGV or by regional TER, either by the official French site (www.voyages-sncf.com) or via Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com), which lets you search in your home country’s language and currency before you arrive in France.

AIR TRAVEL

With a landmass about four-fifths that of Texas, France presents its own set of transportation challenges when confronting the big question: what’s the best way to get around? Fact is, the quickest and often least expensive option—thanks to budget airlines and competitive rates on Air France—is flying. You can fly in one hour from Paris into Nice Airport (plus 15 minutes by bus into town) on easyJet from Orly Airport (15 minutes south of Paris) starting from €50 one-way (without checked bags). But factor in the extra hour at the airport for security, the baggage restrictions, and out-of-town location of airports—budget lines use smaller airports far from city centers. An Air France flight from Paris Orly to Marseille costs as little as €43 if booked well in advance, while a RyanAir flight starts at just €25 but flies from Beauvais Airport (an hour north of Paris by bus) to Beziers (Languedoc) plus plenty of extra fees. But flying can be a good option if you have little luggage, less time, and travel to major cities.

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LOUVRE, PARIS

Home to art’s most photogenic beauties—the Venus de Milo, the Winged Victory, and the Mona Lisa—this is not only the largest palace in France but also the most important museum in the world.

CHARTRES, ILE-DE-FRANCE

Triply famous for its peerless stained-glass windows, as the resting place for an important relic of the Virgin Mary, and as the birthplace of High Gothic, Chartres is more than a cathedral—it’s a spiritual experience.

VERSAILLES, ILE-DE-FRANCE

A palace and then some, this prime example of royals-gone-wild Baroque style served as backdrop for the rise to power of King Louis XIV. To escape all his bicep-flexing grandeur visit the park to see Marie-Antoinette’s fairy-tale farm.

MONET’S GARDEN, GIVERNY, ILE-DE-FRANCE

An 8-acre “Monet,” these lush gardens were works of art the Impressionist master spent years perfecting before he began re-creating them on canvas. The colors radiate best on sunny spring days.

CHENONCEAU, LOIRE VALLEY

Half bridge, half pleasure palace, this “queen of the châteaux” was presided over by six remarkable women. It was Catherine de’ Medici who brilliantly enlarged it to span the River Cher in homage to the Ponte Vecchio of her native Florence.

LYON, RHÔNE-ALPS

The second-largest city in France, Lyon vies with Paris as the country’s true gastronomic capital—gourmands flock here for its galaxy of multistar superchefs and cozy bouchons (taverns).

MONT-ST-MICHEL, NORMANDY

Once seen, never forgotten, this Romanesque abbey rises from its bay like a shimmering apparition, becoming an island at high tide. French and English fought to dominate the “rock” until the 13th century, when it was crowned with a splendid Gothic church.

STRASBOURG, ALSACE-LORRAINE

The cosmopolitan seat of Europe’s Parliament, this fascinating mix of half-timber houses and modern glass buildings was fought over by France and Germany—a battle that resulted in a rich intertwining of cultures.

BEAUNE, BURGUNDY

At the heart of some of the world’s most esteemed vineyards, this atmospheric town is inextricably linked with the wine trade, especially during the annual auction at Beaune’s beautiful 15th-century Hôtel-Dieu.

ÈZE, THE FRENCH RIVIERA

Spectacularly perched atop a rocky promontory, this watercolor-pretty village has some of the most breathtaking views in la belle France.

ST-TROPEZ, THE FRENCH RIVIERA

Single-handedly propelled from sleepy hamlet to glamorous resort by Brigitte Bardot, St-Trop today heaves with crowds of petulant glitterati. Chill out in the quiet pastel-hue alleys of La Ponche quarter.

AIX-EN-PROVENCE, PROVENCE

With sun-dappled squares, luxuriant fountains, and Paul Cézanne’s hallowed studio, this captivating town is just the spot for those who consider café-sitting, people-watching, and boutique shopping a way of life.

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How will you experience France? Will you while away the hours in the shops and cafés of Paris? Will you dine at the temples of gastronomy in Lyon? Will you play feudal lord among the châteaux of the Loire Valley? Or will you simply throw away your map and chance upon nestled-away villages of the Côte d’Azur or fairy-tale hamlets of the Dordogne? These suggestions, and the following, await you as memorable experiences for your next trip to France.

WALK LIKE A PARISIAN

Paris was made for wandering, and the French have coined a lovely word for a person who strolls, usually without a destination in mind: le flâneur. In Paris, no matter how aimlessly you wander, chances are you’ll end up somewhere magical. Why not first head to the most beautiful spot on the Right Bank: the Palais Royal gardens?

GO GLAM IN PARIS

Break out your bling in this capital of luxury with a stroll down the rue Saint-Honoré to window-shop—the French call it lèche-vitrine (or “window-licking”)—from Chanel and Hermès to Chloé. Then do some real feasting at one of Paris’s gastronomic temples, L’Arpège (lunch main courses are around €140) or L’Astrance.

RENDEZVOUS WITH THE PHANTOM

Want to feel like a Rothschild for no money at all? Promenade the fabulously opulent lobby and theater of the 19th-century Palais Garnier (www.opera-de-paris.fr)—haunt of the Phantom and Degas’s immortal dancers—daily 10 to 4:30 for free, or get tickets for an evening performance.

PIQUE-NIQUE AT PLACE DES VOSGES

No restaurant can beat the “decor” of Paris’s most beautiful square, the 17th-century place des Vosges, so pull up a bench and enjoy your own foodie fixings. Get them at the nearby Marché d’Aligre market (Tuesday to Sunday), off rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine. It beats those drab supermarchés!

STEP INTO AN 8-ACRE MONET

It doesn’t matter how many posters, photos, or T-shirts you’ve seen emblazoned with Monet’s famous water lilies, nothing beats a visit to Giverny. Savor the Impressionist painter’s famous house and gardens (www.giverny.org) in person.

TRIP THE LIGHT FANTASTIQUE AT VERSAILLES

Exquisitely choreographed pyrotechnical shows are held each summer and fall in Versailles’s immense château gardens (www.chateauversailles.fr). Accompanied by son-et-lumière music and dance performances, these evenings are fit for the Sun King himself.

PLAN AN ASCENT ON HEAVEN AT MONT-ST-MICHEL

Keep the faith with a climb to the top and get a God’s View of this fabled Benedictine abbey (mont-saint-michel.monuments-nationaux.fr), whose fortified medieval village is the crowning glory of the Normandy coastline.

BECOME SCOTT AND ZELDA ON THE RIVIERA

Channel F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife at their old haunts and discover their side of paradise: stay at their Les Belles Rives hotel in Juan-les-Pins, visit hangouts like the Villa Eilenroc at Cap d’Antibes (www.antibes-juanlespins.com), or dine with superstars at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden Roc.

RATE THE BEST OF ALSACE’S WÜRSTS

As you head down Alsace’s famous Wine Road, Hansel and Gretel villages pop up every few miles, and each has winstubs (wine bistros) that cook up delicious dishes of choucroute garnie. The inns in Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé (www.ribeauville-riquewihr.com) are supposed to serve the best.

POP YOUR CORK ALONG THE CHAMPAGNE ROAD

The famous Route du Champagne (www.tourisme-en-champagne.com) leads fans of the famous bubbly to the prestigious Champagne houses of Épernay and Reims (including Mumm and Taittinger) plus smaller, family-run estates for tours and tastings.

QUE LA FÊTE COMMENCE AT NICE’S CARNAVAL

February is festival time on the Côte d’Azur, with boisterous street processions and a celebratory bonfire for the Mardi-Gras Carnaval de Nice (www.nicecarnaval.com). Or march along the citrus-decked parade floats of Menton’s Fête du Citron (www.feteducitron.com).

GO CASTLE-HOPPING ON A LOIRE VALLEY BIKE TOUR

From Orléans to Angers, bike with VBT Tours (www.vbt.com) along the meandering Loire River past royal châteaux and bountiful gardens, and discover quirky cliff-side troglodyte dwellings that house wine caves and mushroom growers.

SUBMERGE YOURSELF IN HIP-DEEP PURPLE ALONG THE LAVENDER ROUTE

Join the lavender-happy crowds from June to mid-July and travel the Route de la Lavande (www.routes-lavande.com), a wide blue-purple swath that connects major sights like the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sènaque, Coustellet’s Musée de la Lavande, and Forcalquier’s famous market.

APRÈS-SKI THE DAY AWAY IN THE FRENCH ALPS

As home to the first Winter Olympic games in 1924, the ski station of Chamonix (www.chamonix.com), set at the foot of Mont Blanc, provides an ideal backdrop for all winter outdoor activities.

RIDE SHOTGUN ON PICASSO’S ROAD TO ST-PAUL-DE-VENCE

Use Aix-en-Provence, Arles, or Antibes as a base for touring the Modern Art Road. Explore picture-perfect villages immortalized by Cézanne and Van Gogh and pose oh-so-casually under the Picassos on view at the Colombe d’Or inn (www.la-colombe-dor.com).

PLAY ONCE-UPON-A-TIME IN CARCASSONNE

Protected by a double ring of ramparts and 53 towers, this perfectly preserved fortified city (www.carcassonne.org) of the Languedoc-Roussillon region is considered to be one of the most romantic medieval settings in France.

ATTEND THE FESTIVAL D’AVIGNON

This internationally renowned summer theater festival (www.festival-avignon.com) features well more than a thousand performances throughout the city, plus hundreds more in the “unofficial” Avignon Off festival.

TRACK THE TOUR DE FRANCE

No tickets are required to watch this famed cycling competition (www.letour.fr) as it winds through some of the country’s most dramatic scenery. Why not enjoy a picnic anywhere along the route as the riders race past?

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If you want to get a sense of contemporary French culture, and indulge in some of its pleasures, start by familiarizing yourself with the rituals of daily life. These are a few highlights—things you can take part in with relative ease.

CAFÉ SOCIETY

Along with air, water, and wine, the café remains one of the basic necessities of life in France. You may prefer a posh perch at a renowned Paris spot such as the Deux Magots on boulevard St-Germain or opt for a tiny café du coin (corner café) in Lyon or Marseilles, where you can have a quick cup of coffee at the counter. Those on Paris’s major boulevards (such as boulevard St-Michel and the Champs-Élysées) will almost always be the most expensive and the least interesting.

In effect, the more modest establishments (look for nonchalant locals) are the places to really get a feeling for French café culture.

And we do mean culture—not only the practical rituals of the experience (perusing the posted menu, choosing a table, unwrapping your sugar cube) but an intellectual spur as well.

You’ll see businesspeople, students, and pensive types pulling out notebooks for intent scribblings. In fact, some Paris landmarks like the Café de Flore host readings, while several years ago a trend for cafés philos (philosophy cafés) took off.

And there’s always the frisson of history available at places like La Closerie des Lilas, where an expensive drink allows you to rest your derrière on the spots once favored by Apollinaire, Picasso, and Henry Miller.

Finally, there’s people-watching, which goes hand in glove with the café lifestyle—what better excuse to linger over your café crème or Lillet? So get ready to settle in, sip your pastis, and pretend your travel notebook is a Hemingway story in the making.

STREET MARKETS

Browsing through the street markets and marchés couverts (covered markets) of France is enough to make you regret all the tempting restaurants around. But even though their seafood, free-range poultry, olives, and produce cry out to be gathered in a basket and cooked in their purest forms, you can also enjoy them as a simple visual feast.

Over at flea and brocante (collectibles) markets, food plays second fiddle. With any luck, you’ll find a little 18th-century engraving that makes your heart go trottinant.

BISTROS AND BRASSERIES

The choice of restaurants in France is a feast in itself. Of course, at least once during your trip you’ll want to indulge in a luxurious meal at a great haute-cuisine restaurant—but there’s no need to get knee-deep in white truffles at Paris’s Pierre Gagnaire to savor the France the French eat. For you can discover the most delicious and indulgent food with a quick visit to a city neighborhood bistro.

History tells us that bistros served the world’s first fast food—after the fall of Napoléon, the Russian soldiers who occupied Paris were known to cry bistro (“quickly” in Russian) when ordering.

Here, at zinc-top tables, you’ll find the great delights of cuisine traditionelle, like grand-mère’s lamb with white beans.

Today the gastro-bistro boom has meant that many are designer-decorated and packed with trendsetters. If you’re lucky, the food will be as witty and colorful as the clientele.

Brasseries, with few exceptions, remain unchanged—great bustling places with white-aproned waiters and hearty, mainly Alsatian, food, such as pork-based dishes, choucroute (sauerkraut), and beer (brasserie also means brewery). Bon appétit!

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GREAT FOOD

Forget the Louvre or the Château de Chenonceau—the real reason for a visit to France is to dine at its famous temples of gastronomy. Once you dive into Taillevent’s lobster soufflé, you’ll quickly realize that food in France is far more than fuel. The French regard gastronomy as essential to the art of living, so don’t feel guilty if your meal at Paris’s L’Ambroisie takes as long as your visit to the Musée d’Orsay: two hours for a three-course menu is par, and you may, after relaxing into the routine, feel pressured at less than three. Gastronomads—those who travel to eat—won’t want to miss a pilgrimage out to L’Assiette Champenoise in Reims to witness the culinary fireworks of chef Arnaud Lallement, or farther afield at the revered Maison Lameloise in the heart of Bourgogne wine country. So plan on treating dining as religiously as the French do—at least once.

Epicure, Paris. Eric Frechon’s masterful cuisine is extraordinaire and the garden-side setting très elegante.

L’Assiette Champenois, Reims. Master chef Arnaud Lallement marries grand cuisine with humble Provençal touches—don’t be surprised to find octopus in your bouillabaisse.

L’Auberge de L’Ill, Illhaeusern, near Ribeauville, Alsace. Gourmands worship at this culinary temple where the Haeberline family create a brave nouvelle world by fusing Alsatian and Asian fixings to the hautest cuisine.

Le Louis XV, Monaco. If you’re going to feast like a king, this Alain Ducasse outpost is the place to do it.

LA VIE DE CHÂTEAUX

From the humblest feudal ruin to the most delicate Loire Valley spires to the grandest of Sun King spreads, the châteaux of France evoke the history of Europe as no museum can. It is easy to slip into the role of a feudal lord standing on his castellated ramparts and scrambling to protect his patchwork of holdings from kings and dukes. The lovely landscape takes on a strategic air and you find yourself role-playing thus, whether swanning aristocratically over Chenonceau’s bridgelike galerie de bal spanning the River Cher or curling a revolutionary lip at the splendid excesses of Versailles. These are, after all, the castles that inspired Charles Perrault’s “Sleeping Beauty” and “Beauty and the Beast,” and their fairy-tale magic—rich with history and Disney-free—still holds true. Better yet, enjoy a “queen-for-a-stay” night at one of France’s many châteaux-hotels. Many are surprisingly affordable.

Chambord, Loire Valley. This French Renaissance extravaganza—all 440 rooms and 365 chimneys—will take your breath away. Be sure to go up the down staircase designed by Leonardo da Vinci.

Château de la Bourdaisière, Loire Valley. Not one but two princes de Broglie welcome you to this idyllic and elegant neo-Renaissance hotel.

Château d’Ussé, Loire Valley. Step into a fairy tale at Sleeping Beauty’s legendary home.

Vaux-le-Vicomte, Ile-de-France. Louis XIV was so jealous when he saw this 17th-century Xanadu that he promptly imprisoned its owner and commissioned Versailles.

BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES

Nearly everyone has a mind’s-eye view of the perfect French village. Oozing half-timber houses and rose boweres, these once-upon-a-time villages have a sense of tranquillity not even tour buses can ruin. The Loire Valley’s prettiest village, Saché, is so small it seems your own personal property—an eyebrow of cottages, a Romanesque church, a 17th-century auberge (inn), and a modest château. Little wonder Honoré de Balzac came here to write some of his greatest novels. Auvers-sur-Oise, the pretty riverside village in the Ile-de-France, inspired some of Van Gogh’s finest landscapes. In the Dordogne region, hamlets have a Disney-like quality, right down to Rapunzel windows, flocks of geese, and storks’-nest towers. Along the Côte d’Azur you’ll find the sky-kissing, hilltop villages perchés, like Èze. All in all, France has an embarras de richesses of nestled-away treasures—so just throw away the map. After all, no penciled itinerary is half as fun as stumbling upon some half-hidden Brigadoon.

Haut-de-Cagnes, French Riviera. This perfect example of the eagle’s-nest village near the coast is nearly boutique-free, was once adored by Renoir, and remains ancient in atmosphere.

La Roque-Gageac, Dordogne. Lorded over by its immense rock cliff, this centuries-old riverside village is the perfect backdrop for a beautiful pique-nique.

Riquewihr, Alsace. Full of storybook buildings, cul-de-sac courtyards, and stone gargoyles, this is the showpiece of the Alsatian Wine Route.

MONET, MANET, AND MATISSE

It is through the eyes of its artists that many first get to know France. No wonder people from across the globe come to search for Gauguin’s bobbing boats at Pont-Aven, Monet’s bridge at Giverny, and the gaslit Moulin Rouge of Toulouse-Lautrec—not hung in a museum but alive in all their three-dimensional glory. In Arles you can stand on the spot where Van Gogh painted and compare his perspective to a placard with his finished work; in Paris you can climb into the garret-atelier where Delacroix created his epic canvases, or wander the redolent streets of Montmartre, once haunted by Renoir, Utrillo, and Modigliani. A short visit to any major museum can transport the viewer—by way of the paintings of Pisarro, Millet, Poussin, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Sisley, and Matisse—to its legendary landscapes. But what could be better than entering
the real landscapes that inspired these famed artists?

Aix-en-Provence, Route de Cézanne. Follow in Cézanne’s footsteps through elegant, arts-loving Aix then up to the artist’s favorite muse, the incomparable Mont Ste-Victoire.

Céret, Languedoc-Roussillon. Pack your crayons for a trip to Matisse Country, for this is where the artist fell in love with the fauve (savage) hues found only in Mother Nature.

Giverny, Ile-de-France. Replacing paint and water with earth and water, Monet transformed his 5-acre garden into a veritable live-in Impressionist painting.

St-Paul-de-Vence, Côte d’Azur. Pose oh-so-casually under the Picassos at the famed Colombe d’Or inn, once favored by Signac, Modigliani, and Bonnard.

LE SHOPPING

Although it’s somewhat disconcerting to see Gap stores gracing major street corners in Paris and other urban areas in France, if you take the time to peruse smaller specialty shops, you can find rare original gifts—be it an antique brooch from the 1890s or a modern vase crafted from Parisian rooftop-tile zinc. It’s true that the traditional gifts of silk scarves, perfume, and wine can often be purchased for less in the shopping mall back home, but you can make an interesting twist by purchasing a vintage Hermès scarf, or a unique perfume from an artisan perfumer. Bargaining is traditional in outdoor and flea markets, antiques stores, small jewelry shops, and craft galleries, for example. If you’re thinking of buying several items, or if you’re simply in love with something a little bit too expensive, you’ve nothing to lose by cheerfully suggesting to the proprietor, “Vous me faites un prix?” (“How about a discount?”) The small businessperson will immediately size you up, and you’ll have some good-natured fun.

Colette, Paris. Wiggle into something sleek and chic at this fashionista shrine.

Grain de Vanille, Cancale. These sublime tastes of Brittany—salted butter caramels and rare honeys—make great gifts, non?

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Provence. This canal-laced antiques town becomes a Marrakech of marketeers on weekends, when dazzling brocante (collectibles) dealers set up shop.

GOTHIC CHURCHES AND CATHEDRALS

Their extraordinary permanence, their everlasting relevance even in a secular world, and their transcendent beauty make the Gothic churches and cathedrals of France a lightning rod if you are in search of the essence of French culture. The product of a peculiarly Gallic mix of mysticism, exquisite taste, and high technology, France’s 13th- and 14th-century “heavenly mansions” provide a thorough grounding in the history of architecture (some say there was nothing new in the art of building between France’s Gothic arch and Frank Lloyd Wright’s cantilevered slab). Each cathedral imparts its own monumental experience—knee-weakening grandeur, a mighty resonance that touches a chord of awe, and humility in the unbeliever. Even cynics will find satisfaction in these edifices’ social history—the anonymity of the architects, the solidarity of the artisans, and the astonishing bravery of experiments in suspended stone.

Chartres, Ile-de-France. Get enlightened with France’s most exquisite stained-glass windows and famous labyrinth.

Mont-St-Michel, Normandy. From its silhouette against the horizon to the abbey and gardens at the peak of the rock, you’ll never forget this awe-inspiring sight.

Notre-Dame, Paris. Make a face back at the gargoyles high atop Quasimodo’s home.

Reims, Champagne. Tally up the 34 VIPs crowned at this magnificent edifice, the age-old setting for the coronations of French kings.

L’ESPRIT SPORTIF

Though the physically inclined would consider walking across Scotland or bicycling across Holland, they often misconstrue France as a sedentary country where one plods from museum to château to restaurant. But it’s possible to take a more active approach: imagine pedaling past barges on the Saône River or along slender poplars on a route départementale (provincial road); hiking over Alpine meadows near Megéve; or sailing the historic ports of Honfleur or Antibes. Experiencing this side of France will take you off the beaten path and into the countryside. As you bike along French country roads or along the extensive network of Grandes Randonnées (Lengthy Trails) crisscrossing the country, you will have time to tune into the landscape—to study crumbling garden walls, smell the honeysuckle, and chat with a farmer in his potager (vegetable garden).

Sentier des Cascades, Haute-Pyrénées. Near Cauterets is the GR10 walk, which features stunning views of the famous waterfalls and abundant marmottes (Pyrenean groundhogs).

Tracking the Camargue Reserve, Provence. Take an unforgettable promenade équestre (horseback tour) of this amazing nature park, home to bulls and birds—50,000 flamingos, that is.

The VBT Loire Biking Tour. Stunning châteaux-hotels, Pissarro-worthy riverside trails, and 20 new best friends make this a fantastique way to go “around the whirl.”

CLOS ENCOUNTERS

Bordeaux or Burgundy, Sauternes or Sancerre, Romanée-Conti or Côte du Rhône—wherever you turn in France, you’ll find famous Gallic wine regions and vineyards, born of the country’s curvaceous landscape. Speckled unevenly with hills, canals, forests, vineyards, châteaux, and the occasional cow clinging to 30-degree inclines, the great wine regions of France attract hordes of travelers more interested in shoving their noses deep into wine glasses than staring high into the stratosphere of French cathedral naves. Fact is, you can buy the bottles of the fabled regions—the Côte d’Or, the Rhône Valley, or that oenophile’s nirvana, Bordeaux—anywhere, so why not taste the lesser-known local crus from, say, the lovely vineyards in the Loire Valley. Explore the various clos (enclosures) and côtes (hillsides) that grow golden by October, study the vendangeur (grape pickers), then drive along the wine routes looking for those “Dégustation” signs, promising free sips from the local vintner. Pretty soon you’ll be an expert on judging any wine’s aroma, body, and backwash.

The Alsace Route de Vin. Between Mulhouse and Strasbourg, many picture-book villages entice with top vintners.

Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy. A historic wine-making barn, 13th-century grape presses, and its verdant vineyard make this a must-do.

Lafite-Rothschild, Route de Médoc. Baron Philippe perfected one of the great five premiers crus here—and there’s an excellent visitor center.

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France has long been the standard-bearer of Western civilization—without her, neither English liberalism nor the American Constitution would exist today. It has given us Notre-Dame, Loire châteaux, Versailles, Stendhal, Chardin, Monet, Renoir, and the most beautiful city in the world, Paris. So it is no surprise that France unfolds like a gigantic historical pop-up book. To help you understand the country’s masterful mélange of old and new, here’s a quick overview of La Belle France’s stirring historical pageant.

Timeline

58–51 BC Caesar’s conquest of Gaul

800 AD Charlemagne made Holy Roman Emperor

1066 William of Normandy invades England with victory at the Battle of Hastings

12th–13th centuries Cathedrals of Notre Dame and Chartres

1431 Joan of Arc burned; from lowest point, French nation revived

1572 St. Bartholomew Massacre of Protestants

1580–87 Montaigne’s Essays

1678 Louis XIV adds the Hall of Mirrors to Versailles

18th century Zenith of French enlightenment and influence, thanks to Molière, Racine, Voltaire, Diderot, and Rousseau

1789–92 The French Revolution

1793 Queen Marie-Antoinette is guillotined on Paris’s place de la Concorde

1799–1804 Napoléon rules as First Consul of the Consulate

1805–12 Napoléon conquers large parts of Europe but is defeated in Russia

1815 Napoléon loses battle at Waterloo to England’s Duke of Wellington

1848–70 The Second Empire, ruled by Emperor Napoléon III, with colonial expansion into Indochina, Syria, and Mexico

1863 Impressionists show at the Salon des Refusés in Paris

1870 Franco-Prussian War; France defeated, but Flaubert’s and Baudelaire’s writings soar

1871 Alsace-Lorraine ceded to Germany

1940 France surrenders to Germany during World War II: Paris falls

1958 General de Gaulle elected president

1969 Student riots in Paris; government is subsequently stabilized through presidents including Georges Pompidou, François Mitterand, and Nicolas Sarkozy

ANCIENT FRANCE

France’s own “Stonehenge”—the megalithic stone complexes at Carnac in Brittany (circa 3500 BC)—were created by the Celts, who inhabited most of northwest Europe during the last millennia BC. In the 1st century BC, Julius Caesar conquered Gaul, and the classical civilizations of the Mediterranean soon made artistic inroads. The Greek trading colonies at Marseille eventually gave way to the Roman Empire, with the result that ancient Roman aesthetics left a lasting impression: it is no accident that the most famous modern example of a Roman triumphal arch—the Arc de Triomphe—should have been built in Paris.

What to See: France possesses examples of ancient Roman architecture that even Italy cannot match: Provence, whose name comes from the Latin, had been one of the most popular places to holiday for the ancient Romans. The result is that you can find the best-preserved Roman arena in Nîmes (along with the Maison Carrée), the best preserved Roman theater at Orange, and the best preserved Roman bridge aqueduct, the Pont du Gard.

THE MIDDLE AGES: FROM ROMANESQUE TO GOTHIC

By the 7th century AD, Christianity was well established throughout France. Its interaction with an inherited classical tradition produced the first great indigenous French culture, the Frankish or Merovingian, created by the Franks (who gave their name to the new nation), Germanic tribes who expelled the Romans from French soil. Various French provinces began to unite as part of Charlemagne’s new Holy Roman Empire and, as a central core of European Catholicism, France now gave rise to great monastic centers—Tours, Auxerre, Reims, and Chartres—that were also cultural powerhouses. After the Crusades, more settled conditions led to the flowering of the Romanesque style developed by reformist monastic orders like the Benedictines at Cluny. This then gave way to the Gothic, which led to the construction of many cathedrals—perhaps the greatest architectural achievement created in France—during the biggest building spree of the Middle Ages. Under the Capetian kings, French government became more centralized. The most notable king was Louis IX (1226–70), known as Saint Louis, who left important monuments in the Gothic style, which lasted some 400 years and gained currency throughout Europe.

What to See: The Romanesque style sprang out of the forms of classical art left by the Romans; its top artistic landmarks adorn Burgundy: the giant transept of Cluny, the sculptures of Gislebertus at Autun’s Cathèdrale St-Lazare, and the amazing tympanum of the Basilique Ste-Madeleine at Vézelay. Another top Romanesque artwork is in Normandy: the Bayeux Tapestry on view in Bayeux. The desire to span greater area with stone and to admit more light led to the development of the new Gothic style. This became famed for its use of the pointed arch and the rib vault, resulting in an essentially skeletal structure containing large areas of glass. First fully developed at Notre-Dame, Paris (from 1163), Chartres (from 1200), Reims (from 1211), and Amiens (from 1220), the Gothic cathedral contains distinctive Gothic forms: delicate filigree-like rose windows of stained glass, tall lancet windows, elaborately sculpted portails, and flying buttresses. King Louis IV commissioned Paris’s Sainte-Chapelle chapel in the 1240s and it remains the most beautiful artistic creation of the Middle Ages.

THE RENAISSANCE

France nationalism came to the fore once the tensions and wars fomented by the Houses of Anjou and Capet climaxed in the Hundred Years’ War (1328–1453). During this time, Joan of Arc helped drive English rulers from France with the Valois line of kings taking the throne. From the late 15th century into the 16th, the golden light of the Italian Renaissance then dawned over France. This was due, in large measure, to King François I (accession 1515), who returned from wars in Italy with many Italian artists and craftsmen, among them Leonardo da Vinci (who lived in Amboise from 1507). With decades of peace, fortresses soon became châteaux and the picture palaces of the Loire Valley came into being. The grandest of these, Fontainebleau and Chambord, reflected the growing centralization of the French court and were greatly influenced by the new Italian styles.

What to See: An earnest desire to rival and outdo Italy in cultural pursuits dominated French culture during the 15th and 16th centuries. For the decoration of the new Palace of Fontainebleau (from 1528) artists like Cellini, Primaticcio, and Rosso used rich colors, elongated forms, and a concentration on allegory and eroticism to help cement the Mannerist style. Gothic and vernacular forms of architecture were now rejected in favor of classical models, as could be seen in the châteaux in the Loire Valley such as Blois (from 1498), Chambord (from 1519, where design elements were created by Leonardo), and Chenonceau, which was commissioned by the king’s mother, Catherine de’ Medici. The rebuilding of Paris’s Louvre, begun in 1546, marked the final assimilation of Italian classical architecture into France.

ROYAL ABSOLUTISM AND THE BAROQUE STYLE

Rising out of the conflicts between Catholic and Protestant (thousands of Huguenots were murdered in the St. Bartholomew’s Day massacre of 1572), King Henry IV became the first Bourbon king and fomented religious tolerance with the Edict of Nantes (1598). By the 17th century architecture still had an Italianate flavor, as seen in the Roman Baroque forms adorning Parisian churches. The new Baroque architectural taste for large-scale town planning gave rise to the many squares that formed focal points within cities. King Louis XIV, the Sun King, came to the throne in 1643, but he chose to rule from a new power base he built outside Paris: Versailles soon became a symbol of the absolutist court of the Sun King and the new insatiable national taste for glory. But with Louis XIV, XV, and XVI going for broke, a reaction against extravagance and for logic and empirical reason took over. Before long, writers like Jean-Jacques Rousseau argued for social and political reform—the need for revolution.

What to See: To create a more carefully ordered aristocratic bureaucracy, courtiers were commanded to leave their family châteaux and take up residence in the massive new Versailles palace. A golden age for art began. The palaces of the Louvre (1545–1878) and Versailles (1661–1756) bear witness to this in their sheer scale. “After me, the deluge,” Louis XIV said, and early-18th-century France was on the verge of bankruptcy. In turn, the court turned away from the over-the-top splendor of Versailles and Paris’s Luxembourg Palace to retreat to smaller, more domestic houses in Paris, seen in such hôtel particuliers as the Musée Nissim de Camondo and the charming Hameau farm created for Marie-Antoinette in Versailles’s park. Bombastic Baroque gave way to the Rococo style, as the charming, feminine paintings of Watteau, Boucher, and Fragonard provided cultural diversions for an aristocracy withdrawn from the stage of power politics. Find their masterpieces at the Louvre, Carnavalet, and other museums.

REVOLUTION AND ROMANTICISM

The end of Bourbon rule came with the execution of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette. The French Revolution ushered in the First Republic (1792–1804). After a backlash to the Terror (1793–94), in which hundreds were guillotined, Napoléon rose to power from the ashes of the Revolutionary Directoire. With him a new intellectual force and aesthetic mode came to the fore—Romanticism. This new style focused on inner emotions and the self, leading to the withdrawal of the artists from politics, growing industrialization, and urbanization into a more subjective world. Napoléon’s First Empire (1804–14) conquered most of Europe, but after the disastrous Russian invasion the Bourbon dynasty was restored with the rule of Charles X and Louis-Philippe. The latter, known as the Citizen King, abdicated in 1848 and made way for the Second Republic and the return of Napoleonic forces with Napoléon III’s Second Empire (1852–70).

What to See: As often happens, art is one step ahead of history. The design of Paris’s Panthéon by Soufflot, Gabriel’s refined Petit Trianon at Versailles (1762), and the paintings of Greuze (1725–1805) and David (1745–1825), on view at the Louvre, display a conceit for moral order in great contrast to the flippancies of Fragonard. A renewed taste for classicism was seen in the Empire style promulgated by Napoléon; see the emperor’s Paris come alive at the Left Bank’s charming Cour du Commerce St-André and his shrine, Les Invalides. But the rigidly formal Neoclassical style soon gave way to Romanticism, whose touchstones are immediacy of technique, emotionalism, and the ability to convey the uncertainties of the human condition. Go to Paris’s Musée Delacroix to get an up-close look at this expressive, emotive master of Romanticism.

THE MODERN AGE BEGINS

Napoléon III’s Second Empire lead to the vast aggrandizement of France on the world stage, with colonies set up across the globe, a booming economy, and the capital city of Paris remade into Europe’s showplace thanks to Baron Haussman. After the Prussians invaded, France was defeated and culture was shattered and reformed. Romanticism became Realism, often carrying strong social overtones, as seen in the works of Courbet. The closer reexamination of reality by the Barbizon School of landscape painters led to Impressionism, whose masters approached their subjects with a fresh eye, using clear, bright colors to create atmospheric effects and naturalistic observation. By 1870 French rule was reinstated with the Third Republic, which lasted until 1940.

What to See: Thanks to Haussman, Paris became the City of Light, with new large boulevards opening up the dark urban city, an outlook culminating in the Eiffel Tower, built for the Paris Exposition of 1889. Taking modern life as their subject matter, great Impressionist masters like Monet (1840–1926), Renoir (1841–1919), and Degas (1834–1917) proceeded to break down visual perceptions in terms of light and color, culminating in the late series of Water Lilies paintings (from 1916) done at Monet’s Giverny estate. Along with masterpieces by Degas, Gauguin, Van Gogh, and Cézanne, the most famous Impressionist and Postimpressionist paintings can be seen at Paris’s famed Musée d’Orsay. These artists began the myth of the Parisian bohemian artist, the disaffected idealist kicking at the shins of tradition, and they forged the path then boldly trod by the greatest artist of the 20th century, Picasso, whose works can be seen at Paris’s Musée Picasso and Centre Beaubourg.

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The Good Life | France from North to South | France avec Famille

THE GOOD LIFE

Beginning in château country, head south and west, through Cognac country into wine country around Bordeaux. Then lose yourself in the Dordogne, a landscape of rolling hills peppered with medieval villages, fortresses, and prehistoric caves.

LOIRE VALLEY CHÂTEAUX

3 or 4 days. Base yourself at the crossroads of Blois, starting with its multi-era château. Then head for the huge château in Chambord. Amboise’s château echoes with history, and the neighboring manor, Clos Lucé, was Leonardo da Vinci’s final home—or instead of this “town” château, head west to the tiny village of Rigny-Ussé for the Sleeping Beauty castle of Ussé. Heading southeast, finish up at Chenonceau—the most magical one of all—then return to the transportation hub city of Tours.

BORDEAUX WINE COUNTRY

2 days. Pay homage to the great names of Médoc, north of the city of Bordeaux, though the hallowed villages of Margaux, St-Julien, Pauillac, and St-Estèphe aren’t much to look at. East of Bordeaux, via the prettier Pomerol vineyards, the village of St-Émilion is everything you’d want a wine town to be, with ramparts and medieval streets.

DORDOGNE AND PÉRIGORD

2 or 3 days. Follow the famous Dordogne River east to the half-timber market town of Bergerac. Wind through the green, wooded countryside into the region where humans’ earliest ancestors left their mark, in the caves in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac and the famous Grotte de Lascaux. Be sure to sample the region’s culinary specialties: truffles, foie gras, and preserved duck. Then travel south to the stunning and sky-high pilgrimage village of Rocamadour.

BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

It’s easy to get to Blois and Chenonceaux by rail, but you’ll need to take a bus to visit other Loire châteaux. Forays farther into Bordeaux country and the Dordogne are difficult by train, involving complex and frequent changes (Limoges is a big railway hub). Further exploration requires a rental car or sometimes-unreliable bus routes.

FRANCE FROM NORTH TO SOUTH

Zoom from Paris to the heart of historic Burgundy, its rolling green hills traced with hedgerows and etched with vineyards. From here, plunge into the arid beauty of Provence and toward the spectacular coastline of the Côte d’Azur.

BURGUNDY WINE COUNTRY

2 to 3 days. Base yourself in the market town of Beaune and visit its famous hospices and surrounding vineyards. Make a day trip to the ancient hill town of Vézelay, with its incomparable basilica, stopping in Autun to explore Roman ruins and its celebrated Romanesque cathedral. For more vineyards, follow the Côte d’Or from Beaune to Dijon. Or make a beeline to Dijon, with its charming Vieille Ville and fine museums. From here it’s a two-hour drive to Lyon, where you can feast on this city’s famous earthy cuisine. Another three hours’ push takes you deep into the heart of Provence.

ARLES AND PROVENCE

2 to 3 days. Arles is the atmospheric, sun-drenched southern town that inspired Van Gogh and Gauguin. Make a day trip into grand old Avignon, home to the 14th-century rebel popes, to view their imposing palace. And make a pilgrimage to the Pont du Gard, the famous triple-tiered Roman aqueduct west of Avignon. From here two hours’ drive will bring you to the glittering Côte d’Azur.

ANTIBES AND THE FRENCH RIVIERA

2 to 3 days. This historic and atmospheric port town is well positioned for day trips. First, head west to glamorous Cannes. The next day head east into Nice, with its exotic Vieille Ville and its bounty of modern art. There are ports to explore in Villefranche and St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, east of Nice. Allow time for a walk out onto the tropical paradise peninsula of Cap d’Antibes, or for an hour or two lolling on the coast’s famous pebble beaches.

BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

The high-speed TGV travels from Paris through Burgundy and Lyon, then zips through the south to Marseille. Train connections to Beaune from the TGV are easy; getting to Autun from Beaune takes up to two hours, with a change at Chagny. Vézelay can be reached by bus excursion from Dijon or Beaune. Rail connections are easy between Arles and Avignon; you’ll need a bus to get to the Pont du Gard from Avignon. Antibes, Cannes, and Nice are easily reached by the scenic rail line, as are most of the resorts and ports along the coast. To squeeze the most daytime out of your trip, take a night train or a plane from Nice back to Paris.

FRANCE AVEC FAMILLE

Make your way through Normandy and Brittany, with enough wonders and evocative topics to inspire any child to put down the iPhone games and gawk.

PARIS

2 days. Paris’s major museums, like the Louvre, can be as engaging as they are educational—as long as you keep your visits short. Start out your Paris stay by giving your kids an idea of how the city was planned by climbing to the top of the Arc de Triomphe. From here work your way down the Champs-Élysées toward place de la Concorde. Stop for a puppet show at the Marionettes des Champs-Élysées, at avenues Matignon and Gabriel, halfway down the Champs. Continue walking down the Champs, to the Jardin des Tuileries, where kids can sail boats on a small pond. Then taxi or hike over to the Louvre for an afternoon visit. Your reward? Stop in at Angélina (on Rue de Rivoli, across the street), a tearoom famous for its thick hot chocolate. If you want to see the puppet show, do this on a Wednesday, Saturday, or Sunday. The next morning, head to the Eiffel Tower for a bird’s-eye view of the city. After you descend, ride on the Bateaux Bus or one of the Bateaux Mouches at Place de l’Alma, nearby. Then take the métro to the hunchback’s hangout, Notre-Dame Cathedral. Finish up your Paris visit by walking several blocks over, through the center of the Ile de la Cité, to Paris’s most storybook sight—the Sainte-Chapelle, a fairy-tale, stained-glass chapel that looks like a stage set for Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty.

VERSAILLES

1 day. Here’s an opportunity for a history lesson: with its amazing Baroque extravagance, no other monument so succinctly illustrates what inspired the rage of the French Revolution. Louis XIV’s eye-popping château of Versailles pleases the secret monarch in most of us.

HONFLEUR

1 day. From this picture-book seaport lined with skinny half-timber row houses and salt-dampened cobblestones, the first French explorers set sail for Canada in the 15th century.

BAYEUX

2 days. William the Conqueror’s extraordinary invasion of England in 1066 was launched from the shores of Normandy. The famous Bayeux tapestry, showcased in a state-of-the-art museum, spins the tale of the Battle of Hastings. From this home base you can introduce the family to the modern saga of 1944’s Allied landings with a visit to the Museum of the Battle of Normandy, then make a pilgrimage to Omaha Beach.

MONT-ST-MICHEL

1 day. Rising majestically in a shroud of sea mist over vacillating tidal flats, this mystical peninsula is Gothic in every sense of the word. Though its tiny, steep streets are crammed with visitors and tourist traps, no other sight gives you a stronger sense of the worldly power of medieval monasticism than Mont-St-Michel.

ST-MALO

1 day. Even in winter you’ll want to brave the Channel winds to beachcomb the shores of this onetime pirate base. (Yes, kids, pirates!) In summer, of course, it’s mobbed with sun seekers who stroll the old streets, restored to quaintness after World War II.

CHARTRES

1 day. Making a beeline on the autoroute back to Paris, stop in Chartres to view the loveliest of all of France’s cathedrals.

BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

Coordinating a sightseeing tour like this with a limited local train schedule isn’t easy, and connections to Mont-St-Michel are especially complicated. Versailles, Chartres, and St-Malo are easy to reach, and Bayeux and Honfleur are doable, if inconvenient. But you’ll spend a lot of vacation time waiting along train tracks.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Paris

Exploring Paris

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

Nightlife and the Arts

Shopping

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planning

Updated by Jennifer Ditsler-Ladonne, Linda Hervieux, Victoria Tang, and Jack Vermee

If there’s a problem with a trip to Paris, it’s the embarrassment of riches that faces you. No matter which aspect of Paris you choose—touristy, historic, fashion-conscious, pretentious-bourgeois, thrifty, or the legendary bohemian arty Paris of undying attraction—one thing is certain: you will carve out your own Paris, one that is vivid, exciting, ultimately unforgettable.

As world capitals go, Paris is surprisingly compact. The city is divided in two by the River Seine, with two islands (Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis) in the middle. Each bank of the Seine has its own personality; the Rive Droite (Right Bank), with its spacious boulevards and formal buildings, generally has a more genteel, dignified feel than the carefree and chic Rive Gauche (Left Bank), to the south. The east–west axis from Châtelet to the Arc de Triomphe, via the rue de Rivoli and the Champs-Élysées, is the Right Bank’s principal thoroughfare for sightseeing and shopping.

If this is your first trip, you may want to take a guided tour of the city—a good introduction that will help you get your bearings and provide you with a general impression before you return to explore the sights that particularly interest you. To help track those down, this chapter’s exploration of Paris is divided into eight neighborhood walks. Each quartier, or neighborhood, has its own personality, which is best discovered by foot power. Ultimately, your route will be marked by your preferences, your curiosity, and your state of fatigue. You can wander for hours without getting bored—though not, perhaps, without getting lost. By the time you have seen only a few neighborhoods, drinking in the rich variety they have to offer, you should not only be culturally replete but downright exhausted—and hungry, too. Again, take your cue from Parisians and think out your next move in a sidewalk café.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Masterpiece Theater: There will always be something new to see at the Louvre—after all, the Mona Lisa is just one of 800,000 treasures.

Feasting at Le Grand Véfour: Back when Napoléon dined here, this was the most beautiful restaurant in Paris. It remains among the best.

Quasimodo’s Notre-Dame: Get to know the stone gargoyles high atop this playground of Victor Hugo’s hunchback, then savor the splendor inside this great Gothic cathedral.

Café Society: Whether you prefer a posh perch at Les Deux Magots or just the corner café du coin, be sure to Hemingway an afternoon away over two café crèmes.

Spend Time on the Seine: Take a leisurely stroll along the Rive Droite and the Rive Gauche, making sure to carve out time to visit the oldest part of Paris—Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis.

GETTING ORIENTED

Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements (or neighborhoods) spiraling out from the center of the city. The numbers reveal the neighborhood’s location, and its age: the 1st arrondissement at the city’s heart being the oldest. The arrondissements in central Paris—the 1st to 8th—are the most visited.

If you want to figure out what arrondissement something is in, check the zip code. The first three digits are always 750 for Paris, and the last two identify the arrondissement.

It’s worth picking up a copy of Paris Pratique, the essential map guide, available at bookstores, newsstands, and souvenir shops.

WHAT’S WHERE

The Islands. This is where you can find Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle.

Around the Eiffel Tower. With the Champs de Mars, Invalides, and the Seine nearby, many lovely strolls give you striking views.

Champs-Élysées. The Champs-Élysées and Arc de Triomphe attract the tourists, but there are also several excellent museums here.

Around the Louvre. The Faubourg St-Honoré, with its well-established shops and cafés, has always been chic, and probably always will be.

Les Grands Boulevards. Use the Opéra Garnier as your landmark and set out to do some power shopping.

Montmartre. It feels distinctly separate from the rest of Paris—but Montmartre is prime tourist territory, with Sacré-Coeur as its main attraction.

Marais. This is one of the city’s hippest destinations. While away the afternoon at the Place des Vosges or shop to your heart’s content.

Eastern Paris. If it’s new and happening in Paris, you’ll find it out here in neighborhoods like Canal St-Martin.

The Latin Quarter. Leave yourself lots of time to wander the Latin Quarter, known for its vibrant student life.

St-Germain-des-Prés. The Musée d’Orsay is here, but make sure you leave time to wander the Jardin du Luxembourg.

Montparnasse. This neighborhood is known for its contemporary-art scene.

PLANNING

WHEN TO GO

The City of Light is magical all year round, but it’s particularly gorgeous in June, when the long days (the sun doesn’t set until 10 pm) stretch sightseeing hours and make it ideal to linger in the cafés practicing the city’s favorite pastime—people-watching. Winter can be dark and chilly, but it’s also the best time to find cheap airfares and hotel deals. April in Paris, despite what the song says, is often rainy. Keep in mind that, like some other European cities, Paris somewhat shuts down in August—some restaurants are closed for the entire month, for example—though there are still plenty of fun things to do, namely, free open-air movies and concerts, and the popular Paris plage, the “beach” on the right bank of the Seine.

SAVING TIME AND MONEY

Paris is one of the world’s most visited cities—with crowds to prove it—so it pays to be prepared. Buy tickets online when you can: most cultural centers and museums offer advance-ticket sales, and the small service fee you’ll pay is worth the time saved waiting in line. Also, national museums are free the first Sunday of each month. There are many within Paris, including the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, and Centre Pompidou.

A Paris Museum Pass (www.parismuseumpass.com) can save you money if you’re planning serious sightseeing, but it might be even more valuable because it allows you to bypass the lines. It’s sold at the destinations it covers and at airports, major métro stations, and the tourism office in the Carrousel du Louvre. The two-, four-, or six-day passes are €39, €54, and €69, respectively.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Paris is without question best explored on foot, and thanks to Baron Haussmann’s mid-19th-century redesign, the City of Light is a compact wonder of wide boulevards, gracious parks, and leafy squares. When you want a lift, though, public transportation is easy and inexpensive. The métro (subway) goes just about everywhere you’re going for €1.70 a ride (a carnet, or pack, of 10 tickets is €12); tickets also work on buses and trams, and the RER train line within Paris.

Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements (or neighborhoods) spiraling out from the center of the city. The numbers reveal the neighborhood’s location and its age, the 1er arrondissement at the city’s heart being the oldest. The arrondissements in central Paris—the 1er to 8e—are the most visited.

It’s worth picking up a copy of Paris Pratique, the essential map guide, available at newsstands and bookstores.

Air Travel

The major airports are Charles de Gaulle (CDG, also known as Roissy), 26 km (16 miles) northeast of Paris, and Orly (ORY), 16 km (10 miles) south of Paris. Both are easily accessible from the city. Whether you take a car or bus to travel from Paris to the airport on your departure, always allot an extra hour because of the often horrendous traffic tie-ups in the airports themselves (especially in peak seasons and at peak times). Free light rail connections (Orlyval and CDGval) available between the major terminals are one option for avoiding some of the traffic mess, but still give yourself enough time to navigate through these busy airports.

Boat Travel

Bateaux Mouches.

If you want to view Paris in slow motion, hop on one of these famous motorboats, which set off on their hour-long tours of the city waters regularly (every half hour in summer) from Place de l’Alma. Their route heads east to the Ile St-Louis and then back west, past the Tour Eiffel, as far as the Allée des Cygnes and its miniature version of the Statue of Liberty. It departs from the Pont de l’Alma (Right Bank) April to September, daily, every 20, 30, or 45 minutes, from 10:15 am to 11 pm; October through March, daily, approximately every hour from 11 am to 9 pm. | Pl. de l’Alma, Trocadéro | 01–42–25–96–10 | www.bateaux-mouches.fr | Station: Alma-Marceau.

Batobus.

For those who wish to enjoy a little cruise along Paris’s Seine in peace and quiet, opt for the city-run Batobus, which has no commentary and allows you to get on and off at its various quayside stops. It departs from eight locations: Eiffel Tower, Champs-Élysées, Musée d’Orsay, Louvre, St-Germain-des-Pres, Notre-Dame, Hotel de Ville, and Jardin des Plantes. There is no service early January through early February. | Port de la Bourdonnais, Eiffel Tower | 08–25–05–01–01 | www.batobus.com.

Vedettes du Pont Neuf.

Instead of the famed Bateaux Mouches, some travelers prefer to take take a cruise on the Seine in Paris using the smaller Vedettes du Pont Neuf, which depart from Square du Vert-Galant on the Ile de la Cité. A top selling point: the Vedettes have a guide giving commentary in French and English, while the Bateaux Mouches have a loud recorded spiel in several languages. | Square du Vert-Galant on the Ile de la Cité | 01–46–33–98–38 | www.vedettesdupontneuf.com.

Bus Travel

The Paris bus system is user-friendly and a great way to see the city. With dedicated lanes throughout the city allowing buses and taxis to whiz past traffic jams, taking the bus can be a pleasant way to get around. Buses are marked with the route number and destination in front and with major stopping places along the sides. The brown bus shelters contain timetables and route maps, and electronic boards tell you when the next bus will arrive. Maps are also found on each bus. To get off, press one of the red buttons mounted on the silver poles that run the length of the bus and the arrêt demandé (stop requested) light directly above the driver will light up. Use the rear door to exit (some require you to push a silver button to open the door). When buying tickets, your best bet is a carnet of 10 tickets, available for €13.70 at any métro station, or a single ticket, which can be bought onboard (exact change appreciated) for €1.70.

Car Travel

Driving is not recommended within Paris. Parisian drivers are aggressive behind the wheel and it’s often very difficult to park. Should you be driving into the city from elsewhere in Ile de France, the major ring road encircling the city is called the périférique, with the périférique intérieur going counterclockwise around the city, and the périférique extérieur, or the outside ring, going clockwise. Five lanes wide, the périférique is a highway from which portes (gates) connect Paris to the major highways of France. The highway names function on the same principle as the métro, with the final destination used as the route “name.”

Métro Travel

The métro is by far the quickest and most efficient way to get around. Métro tickets cost €1.70 each, but a carnet (10 tickets for €13.70) is a better value. Métro service starts at 5:30 am and continues until 1 am Sunday through Thursday, and until 2 am on Friday and Saturday. Stations are signaled either by a large yellow M within a circle or by their distinctive curly green Art Nouveau railings and archway entrances bearing the subway’s full title (Métropolitain).

Be aware that métro ticket booths have been mostly replaced by ticket machines (you’ll find the booths only in the largest stations and at the end of the line). Although the machines are easy to use and have an English language option, they accept only euros and credit cards with electronic chips. If, however, you find yourself without a European-style credit card, the information booths—which have replaced ticketing booths—do have the capability of taking strip credit cards, a fact that is not well publicized.

Hold on to your ticket until you’ve exited the métro to avoid being fined, as inspectors appear regularly (for the RER you will need it to pass through the turnstiles and exit from the system at the end of your trip). In general, the métro is safe, although try to avoid the larger, mazelike stations at Châtelet-Les Halles and Montparnasse if you’re alone late at night. Parisian pickpockets are famously discreet, so be aware of your belongings, especially as you go through the subway turnstiles and on crowded trains, as they like to jostle you or rush you through and, in the confusion, manage to steal things from confused travelers.

Taxi Travel

On weekend nights after 11 pm, and during the morning rush, it’s nearly impossible to find a taxi—you’re best off asking hotel or restaurant staff to call you one, but, be forewarned: you’ll have to pay for them to come get you and, depending on where they are, the fare can quickly add up. If you want to hail a cab on your own, look for the taxis with their signs lighted up—their signs will be glowing green (white for older taxis) as opposed to the taxis that are already taken whose signs will glow red (dull orange for older taxis). There are taxi stands on almost every major street corner but again, expect a wait if it’s a busy weekend night. Taxi stands are marked by a square dark blue sign with a white T in the middle.

Taxi rates are based on location and time. Daytime rates, denoted A (7 am–7 pm), within Paris are €0.96 per kilometer (½ mile), and nighttime rates, B, are €1.21 per kilometer. Suburban zones and airports, C, are €1.50 per kilometer. There’s a basic hire charge of €2.50 for all rides, a €1 supplement per piece of luggage, and a €0.70 supplement if you’re picked up at an SNCF (the French rail system) station.

RESTAURANTS

Restaurants follow French mealtimes, serving lunch from noon to 2:30 pm and dinner from 7:30 or 8 pm. Some cafés serve food all day long. Always reserve a table for dinner, as top restaurants book up months in advance. When it comes to the check, you must ask for it (it’s considered rude to bring it unbidden). In cafés you’ll get a register receipt with your order. Servis (gratuity) is always included in the bill, but it’s good form to leave something extra if you’re satisfied with the service: a few cents for drinks, €1 for lunch, €3 at dinner; leave 5% of the bill only in higher-end restaurants.

Brasseries often have nonstop service; some are open 24 hours. Assume a restaurant is open every day, unless otherwise indicated. Surprisingly, many prestigious restaurants close on weekends and sometimes Monday. July and August are the most common months for annual closings, although Paris in August is no longer the wasteland it once was.

HOTELS

Unless stated in the review, hotels have elevators, and all guest rooms have TV, telephone, and a private bathroom. Recently, more and more hotels have standard air-conditioning, something that makes a summer stay much more bearable. Tubs don’t always have shower curtains or showerheads. (How the French manage to scrub up without flooding the bathroom remains a cultural mystery.) If you book a budget hotel, be sure to confirm whether the bathroom is shared or not. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Paris is without question best explored on foot and, thanks to Baron Haussmann’s mid-19th-century redesign, the City of Light is a compact wonder of wide boulevards, gracious parks, and leafy squares. Happily and conveniently, there are a half dozen branches of the Paris tourist office located at key points in the capital:

Office du Tourisme de la Ville de Paris Pyramides. | 25 rue des Pyramides, 1er, Pyramides | www.parisinfo.com | Station: Pyramides.

WHAT TO WEAR

When it comes to clothing, the standard French look is dressier than the American equivalent. Athletic clothes are reserved for sports. Sneakers are not usually worn by adults but if you pack yours, keep them for daytime only. Neat jeans are acceptable everywhere except at higher-end restaurants; check to see whether there’s a dress code.

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The Islands | Around the Eiffel Tower | Champs-Élysées | Around the Louvre | Les Grands Boulevards | Montmartre | Marais | Eastern Paris | The Latin Quarter | St-Germain-des-Prés

THE ISLANDS

At the heart of Paris, linked to the banks of the Seine by a series of bridges, are two small islands: Ile St-Louis and Ile de la Cité. They’re the perfect places to begin your visit, with postcard-worthy views all around. The Ile de la Cité is anchored by mighty Notre-Dame; farther east, the atmospheric Ile St-Louis is dotted with charming hotels, cozy restaurants, and small specialty shops.

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TOP ATTRACTIONS

Fodor’s Choice | Ancien Cloître Quartier.

Hidden in the shadows of Notre-Dame is this evocative, often-overlooked tangle of medieval streets. Through the years lucky folks, including Ludwig Bemelmans (who created the beloved Madeleine books) and the Aga Khan have called this area home, but back in the Middle Ages it was the domain of cathedral seminary students. One of them was the celebrated Peter Abélard (1079–1142)—philosopher, questioner of the faith, and renowned declaimer of love poems. Abélard boarded with Notre-Dame’s clergyman, Fulbert, whose 17-year-old niece, Héloïse, was seduced by the compelling Abélard, 39 years her senior. She became pregnant and the vengeful clergyman had Abélard castrated; amazingly, he survived and fled to a monastery, while Héloïse took refuge in a nunnery. The poetic, passionate letters between the two cemented their fame as thwarted lovers, and their story inspired a devoted following during the romantic 19th century. They still draw admirers to the Père Lachaise Cemetery, where they’re interred ensemble. The clergyman’s house at 10 rue Chanoinesse was redone in 1849; a plaque at the back of the building at 9-11 quai aux Fleurs commemorates the lovers. | Rue du Cloître-Notre-Dame north to Quai des Fleurs, Ile de la Cité | Station: Cité.

Ile St-Louis.

One of the more fabled addresses in Paris, this tiny island has long harbored the rich and famous, including Chopin, Daumier, Helena Rubinstein, Chagall, and the Rothschilds. Like a tiny French village (albeit an unusually tony one) found in the heart of Paris, the island has long been prized for its “apartness”: up to four decades ago, some residents never visited the “mainland.” Ever since the early 17th-century, the entire isle has displayed striking architectural unity, thanks to the efforts of a group of property speculators who commissioned leading Baroque architect Louis Le Vau (1612–70) to design a series of imposing town houses, the queen of which—the Hôtel Lambert (Le Vau’s masterpiece until he took he enlarged it umteen times to create Versailles)—still rides the prow of the island’s east end. Other than some elegant facades and the picturesque quays along the Seine, there are no notable photo-ops, but people love to visit here nevertheless, to savor the island’s peace and, bien sûr, an ice-cream treat from famed Berthillon (located at 31 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile). | Pont-St-Louis, Pont-Marie, Pont de Sully | Station: Pont-Marie.

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Fodor’s Choice | Notre-Dame.

Looming above Place du Parvis on the Ile de la Cité is the iconic Cathédrale de Notre-Dame. Begun in 1163, completed in 1345, badly damaged during the Revolution, and restored by architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc in the 19th century, Notre-Dame may not be France’s oldest or largest cathedral, but in beauty and architectural harmony it has few peers—as you can see by studying the facade from the square in front. The ornate doors seem like hands joined in prayer, the sculpted kings above them form a noble procession, and the west (front) rose window gleams with what seems like divine light. The most dramatic approach to Notre-Dame is from the Rive Gauche, crossing at the Pont au Double from Quai de Montebello, at the St-Michel métro or RER stop. This bridge will take you to the large square, Place du Parvis, in front of the cathedral, which serves as kilomètre zéro—the spot from which all distances to and from the city are officially measured. A polished brass circle set in the ground, about 20 yards from the cathedral’s main entrance, marks the exact spot.

A separate entrance, to the left of the front facade if you’re facing it, leads to the 387 stone steps of the south tower. These wind up to the bell of Notre-Dame—as tolled by the fictional Quasimodo, in Victor Hugo’s 1831 Notre-Dame de Paris. The incredible popularity of the book made Parisians finally take notice of the cathedral’s state of disrepair and spurred Viollet-le-Duc’s renovations. These included the addition of the gargoyles (though technically they are chimeras, as they lack the functioning waterspout of true “gargoyles”), among other things, and resulted in the structure we know today. Looking out from the tower, you can see how Paris—like the trunk of a tree developing new rings—has grown outward from the Ile de la Cité. To the north is Montmartre; to the west is the Arc de Triomphe, at the top of the Champs-Élysées; and to the south are the towers of St-Sulpice and the Panthéon. TIP Lines to climb the tower are shortest on weekday mornings.

Notre-Dame was one of the first Gothic cathedrals in Europe and one of the first buildings to make use of flying buttresses—exterior supports that spread out the weight of the building and roof. At first people thought they looked like scaffolding that the builders forgot to remove. TIP The most tranquil place to appreciate the architecture of Notre-Dame is from the lovely garden behind the cathedral, Square Jean-XXIII. By night, take a boat ride on the Seine for the best view—the lights after dark are magnificent.

The west (front) facade has three main entrances: the Portal of the Virgin on the left; the Portal of the Last Judgment in the center; and the Portal of St. Anne (the oldest of the three) on the right. As you enter the nave, the faith of the early builders permeates the quiet interior: the soft glow of the stained-glass windows contrasts with the triumphant glory of the exterior. The best time to visit is early in the morning, when the cathedral is at its brightest and least crowded. At the entrance are the massive 12th-century columns supporting the towers. Look down the nave to the transepts—the arms of the church—where, at the south (right) entrance to the choir, you’ll glimpse the haunting 12th-century statue of Notre-Dame de Paris, Our Lady of Paris, for whom the cathedral is named. On the south side of the choir is the Treasury, with a small collection of garments, reliquaries, crucifixes, and objects in silver and gold plate. Behind the choir you can see the Pietà, representing the Virgin Mary mourning over the dead body of Christ. The biblical scenes on the north and south screens of the choir depict the life of Christ and the apparitions of Christ after the Resurrection. On the north side, the north rose window is one of the cathedral’s original stained-glass panels; at the center is an image of Mary holding a young Jesus. If you’re lucky, you may hear the tolling of nine newly-installed bronze bells, commissioned in 2013 for the cathedral’s 850th birthday celebration. TIP There are audioguides in English at the entrance and free guided tours in English on most days at 2 pm (call ahead to confirm) except Friday and Sunday; Saturday at 2:30.

Down the stairs in front of the cathedral is the Crypte Archéologique, an archaeological museum. It offers a fascinating subterranean view of this busy area from the 1st century when Paris was a Roman city called Lutetia (note the ruins of houses, baths and even a quay) through medieval times when the former rue Neuve-Notre-Dame that passed through here was packed with houses and shops. A renovation in late 2012 cleaned the remains and added 3-D video touch-screen panels that bring the ruins to life. | Pl. du Parvis, Ile de la Cité | 01–42–34–56–10 | www.notredamedeparis.fr | Cathedral free, towers €8.50, crypt €5, treasury €3 | Cathedral daily 8–6:45 (7:15 on weekends). Towers Apr.–June and Sept., daily 10–6:30; July and Aug., weekdays 10–6:30, weekends 10 am–11 pm; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–5:30. Note towers close early when overcrowded. Treasury weekdays 9:30–6, Sat. 9:30–6:30, Sun. 1:30–6:30. Crypt Tues.–Sun. 10–6 | Station: Cité.

Fodor’s Choice | Sainte-Chapelle.

Built by the obsessively pious Louis IX (1226–70), this Gothic jewel is home to the oldest stained-glass windows in Paris. The chapel was constructed over three years, at phenomenal expense, to house the king’s collection of relics acquired from the impoverished emperor of Constantinople. These included Christ’s Crown of Thorns, fragments of the Cross, and drops of Christ’s blood—though even in Louis’s time these were considered of questionable authenticity. Some of the relics have survived and can be seen in the treasury of Notre-Dame, but most were lost during the Revolution.

The narrow spiral staircase by the entrance takes you to the upper chapel where the famed beauty of Sainte-Chapelle comes alive: 6,458 square feet of stained glass is delicately supported by painted stonework that seems to disappear in the colorful light streaming through the windows. Deep reds and blues dominate the background, noticeably different from later, lighter medieval styles such as those of Notre-Dame’s rose windows.

The chapel is essentially an enormous magic lantern illuminating 1,130 biblical figures. Its 15 windows—each 50-feet high—were dismantled and cleaned with laser technology during a 40-year restoration, completed in 2014 to coincide with the 800th anniversary of St. Louis’s birth. Besides the dazzling glass, observe the detailed carvings on the columns and the statues of the apostles. The lower chapel is gloomy and plain, but take note of the low, vaulted ceiling decorated with fleurs-de-lis and cleverly arranged Ls for Louis.

TIP Sunset is the optimal time to see the rose window; however, to avoid waiting in killer lines, plan your visit for a weekday morning, the earlier the better. Come on a sunny day to appreciate the full effect of the light filtering through all of that glorious stained glass. You can buy a joint ticket with the Conciergerie: lines are shorter if you purchase it there or online, though you’ll still have to go through a longish metal detector line to get into Sainte-Chapelle itself. Sights aside, the chapel makes a divine setting for classical concerts; check the schedule at www.infoconcert.com. | 4 bd. du Palais, Ile de la Cité | 01–53–40–60–97 | www.sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr | €8.50; joint ticket with Conciergerie €12.50 | Mar. 1–Oct. 31, daily 9:30–6; Nov.–Feb., daily 9–5 (ticket window closes 30 min before closing) | Station: Cité.

WORTH NOTING

FAMILY | Conciergerie.

Most of the Ile de la Cité’s medieval structures fell victim to wunderkind urban planner Baron Haussmann’s ambitious rebuilding program of the 1860s. Among the rare survivors are the jewel-like Sainte-Chapelle, a vision of shimmering stained glass, and the Conciergerie, the cavernous former prison where Marie-Antoinette and other victims of the French Revolution spent their final days.

Constructed by Philip IV in the late13th and early14th centuries, the Conciergerie—which takes its name from the building’s concierge or keeper—was part of the original palace of the kings of France before the royals moved into the Louvre around 1364. In 1391, it became a prison. During the French Revolution, Marie-Antoinette languished 76 days here awaiting her date with the guillotine. There is a re-creation of the doomed queen’s sad little cell—plus others that are far smaller—complete with wax figures behind bars. In the chapel, stained glass, commissioned after the queen’s death by her daughter, is emblazoned with the initials M. A. Outside you can see the small courtyard where women prisoners took meals and washed their clothes in the fountain (men enjoyed no similar respite). Well-done temporary exhibitions on the ground floor aim to please kids and adults alike; previous themes have included enchanted forests and Gothic castles. There are free guided tours (in French only) most days at 11 and 3. | 2 bd. du Palais, Ile de la Cité | 01–53–40–60–80 | www.conciergerie.monuments-nationaux.fr | €8.50; joint ticket with Sainte-Chapelle €12.50 | Daily 9:30–6 (ticket window closes at 5:30) | Station: Cité.

Place Dauphine.

The Surrealists called Place Dauphine “le sexe de Paris” because of its suggestive V shape; however, its origins were much more proper. The pretty square on the western side of the Pont Neuf was built by Henry IV, who named it as a homage to his son the crown prince (or dauphin) who became Louis XIII when Henry was assassinated. TIP In warmer weather, treat yourself to a romantic meal on a restaurant terrace here—the square is one of the best places in Paris to dine en plein air. | Ile de la Cité | Station: Cité.

AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER

One of Paris’s most upscale neighborhoods, the posh 7e arrondissement (where nearly every block affords a view of La Tour Eiffel) is home to the French bourgeoisie and well-heeled expats. Commanding the southwestern end of Paris, the Eiffel Tower was considered an iron-latticed monstrosity when it opened in 1889. Today it is a beloved icon, especially at night when thousands of twinkling lights sparkle at the top of every hour.

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TOP ATTRACTIONS

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel).

The Eiffel Tower is to Paris what the Statue of Liberty is to New York and what Big Ben is London: the ultimate civic emblem. French engineer Gustave Eiffel—already famous for building viaducts and bridges—spent two years working to erect this iconic monument for the World Exhibition of 1889.

Because its colossal bulk exudes such a feeling of permanence, you may have trouble believing that the tower nearly became 7,000 tons of scrap metal (it contains 12,000 pieces of metal and 2,500,000 rivets) when the concession expired in 1909. Only its potential use as a radio antenna saved the day; and it still bristles with a forest of radio and television transmitters. Given La Tour’s landmark status, it is equally hard to believe that so many Parisians—including arbiters of taste like Guy de Maupassant and Alexandre Dumas—initially derided the 1,063-foot structure.

Gradually, though, the Tour Eiffel became part of the city’s topography, entering the hearts and souls of residents and visitors alike. Today it is most breathtaking at night, when every girder is highlighted in a sparkling display originally conceived to celebrate the turn of the millennium. The glittering light show was so popular that the 20,000 lights were reinstalled for permanent use in 2003. The tower does its electric dance for five minutes every hour on the hour until 1 am.

More recent enhancements are also noteworthy. A major two-year renovation of the first floor, began in 2012, has added a “transparent” floor 187 feet above the esplanade and a pair of new glass-facade pavilions that hug the side of the tower, housing interactive educational areas. A miniturbine plant, four vertical turbine windmills, and eco-friendly solar panels will minimize the tower’s carbon footprint, too.

You can stride up 1,700 steps as far as the third floor, but if you want to go to the top you’ll have to take the elevator. (Be sure to look closely at the fantastic ironwork.) Although the view of the flat sweep of Paris at 1,000 feet may not beat the one from the Tour Montparnasse skyscraper, the setting makes it considerably more romantic—especially if you come in the late evening, after the crowds have dispersed. TIP Beat the crushing lines by reserving your ticket online. You can also book a guided tour. | Quai Branly, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 08–92–70–12–39 €0.34 per min | www.tour-eiffel.fr | By elevator: 1st and 2nd levels €9; top €15. By stairs: 1st and 2nd levels only, €5 | Mid-June–Sept., daily 9 am–12:45 am (11 pm for summit); rest of year, daily 9:30 am–11:45 pm (10:30 pm for summit); stairs close at 6 pm in winter | Station: Bir-Hakeim, Trocadéro, École Militaire; RER: Champ de Mars.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel des Invalides.

The Baroque complex known as Les Invalides (pronounced lehz-ahn-vah-leed) is the eternal home of Napoléon Bonaparte (1769–1821) or, more precisely, the little dictator’s remains, which lie entombed under the towering golden dome.

Louis XIV ordered the facility built in 1670 to house disabled soldiers (hence the name), and at one time 4,000 military men lived here. Today, a portion of it still serves as a veterans’ residence and hospital. The Musée de l’Armée, containing an exhaustive collection of military artifacts from antique armor to weapons, is also here.

If you see only a single sight, make it the Église du Dome (one of Les Invalides’ two churches) at the back of the complex. Napoléon’s tomb was moved here in 1840 from the island of Saint Helena, where he died in forced exile. The emperor’s body is protected by a series of no fewer than six coffins—one set inside the next, sort of like a Russian nesting doll—which is then encased in a sarcophagus of red quartzite. The bombastic tribute is ringed by statues symbolizing Napoléon’s campaigns of conquest. To see more Napoléoniana, check out the collection in the Musée de l’Armée featuring his trademark gray frock coat and huge bicorne hat. Look for the figurines reenacting the famous coronation scene when Napoléon crowns his empress, Josephine. You can see a grander version of this scene hanging in the Louvre by the painter David.

The Esplanade des Invalides, the great lawns in front of the building, are favorite spots for pickup soccer, Frisbee games, sunbathing, and dog walking—despite signs asking you to stay off the grass. TIP The best entrance to use is at the southern end, on Place Vauban (Avenue de Tourville). The ticket office is here, as is Napoléon’s Tomb. There are automatic ticket machines at the main entrance on the Place des Invalides. | Pl. des Invalides, Tour Eiffel | 01–44–42–38–77 | www.invalides.org | €9.50 | Église du Dôme and museums Apr.–Oct., daily 10–6; Nov.–Mar., daily 10–5 (ticket window closes 30 mins before museum); closed 1st Mon. of every month Oct.–June | Station: La Tour-Maubourg/Invalides.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Musée Rodin.

Auguste Rodin (1840–1917) briefly made his home and studio in the Hôtel Biron, a grand 18th-century mansion that now houses a museum dedicated to his work. He died rich and famous, but many of the sculptures that earned him a place in art history were originally greeted with contempt by the general public, which was unprepared for his powerful brand of sexuality and raw physicality. During a much-needed, multiyear renovation that has closed parts of the Hôtel Biron (it’s set to finish in late 2014), the museum is showcasing a pared-down, “greatest hits” selection of Rodin’s works.

Most of his best-known sculptures are in the gardens. The front garden is dominated by The Gates of Hell (circa 1880). Inspired by the monumental bronze doors of Italian Renaissance churches, Rodin set out to illustrate stories from Dante’s Divine Comedy. He worked on the sculpture for more than 30 years, and it served as a “sketch pad” for many of his later works. Look carefully and you can see miniature versions of The Kiss (bottom right), The Thinker (top center), and The Three Shades (top center).

Inside the museum, look for The Bronze Age, which was inspired by the sculptures of Michelangelo: this piece was so realistic that critics accused Rodin of having cast a real body in plaster. There’s also a room (condensed during the renovation) of works by Camille Claudel (1864–1943), Rodin’s student and longtime mistress, who was a remarkable sculptor in her own right. Her torturous relationship with Rodin eventually drove her out of his studio—and out of her mind. In 1913 she was packed off to an asylum, where she remained until her death.

TIP For €1 you can enjoy the 7 acres of gardens. If you want to linger, the Café du Musée Rodin serves meals and snacks in the shade of the garden’s linden trees. As you enter, a gallery on the right houses temporary exhibitions. An English audioguide (€6) is available for the permanent collection and for temporary exhibitions. Buy your ticket online for priority access (€1.80 extra fee). | 79 rue de Varenne, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 01–44–18–61–10 | www.musee-rodin.fr | €9; €1 gardens only; free 1st Sun. of month | Tues.–Sun. 10–5:45 (Wed. until 8:45); closed Mon. | Station: Varenne.

WORTH NOTING

FAMILY | Musée du Quai Branly.

This eye-catching museum overlooking the Seine was built by star architect Jean Nouvel to house the state-owned collection of “non-Western” art, culled from the Musée National des Arts d’Afrique et d’Océanie and the Musée de l’Homme. Exhibits mix artifacts from antiquity to the modern age, such as funeral masks from Melanesia, Siberian shaman drums, Indonesian textiles, and African statuary. A corkscrew ramp leads from the lobby to a cavernous exhibition space, which is color coded to designate sections from Asia, Africa, and Oceania. The lighting is dim—sometimes too dim to read the information panels (which makes investing in the €5 audioguide a good idea).

Renowned for his bold modern designs, Nouvel has said he wanted the museum to follow no rules; however, many critics gave his vision a thumbs down when it was unveiled in 2006. The exterior resembles a massive rust-color rectangle suspended on stilts, with geometric shapes cantilevered to the facade facing the Seine and louvered panels on the opposite side. The colors (dark reds, oranges, and yellows) are meant to evoke the tribal art within. A “living wall” comprised of some 150 species of exotic plants grows on the exterior, which is surrounded by a wild jungle garden with swampy patches—an impressive sight after dark when scores of cylindrical colored lights are illuminated. TIP The trendy Les Ombres restaurant on the museum’s fifth floor (separate entrance) has premier views of the Tour Eiffel—and prices to match. The budget-conscious can enjoy the garden at Le Café Branly on the ground floor. | 37 quai Branly, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 01–56–61–70–00 | www.quaibranly.fr | €8.50; €10 with temporary exhibits | Tues., Wed., and Sun. 11–7, Thurs.–Sat. 11–9 (ticket office 1 hr before museum); closed Mon. | Station: Alma-Marceau.

CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

Make no mistake: the Champs-Élysées, while ceding some of its elegance in recent times, remains the most famous avenue in Paris—and, perhaps, the world. Like New York’s Times Square or London’s Piccadilly Circus, it is a mecca for travelers and locals alike. Some Parisians complain that fast-food joints and chain stores have cheapened the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, but others are more philosophical, noting that there is something here for everyone. If you can’t afford lunch at Ladurée, there’s always McDonald’s (and the view from its second floor is terrific).

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Fodor’s Choice | Arc de Triomphe.

Inspired by Rome’s Arch of Titus, this colossal, 164-foot triumphal arch was ordered by Napoléon—who liked to consider himself the heir to Roman emperors—to celebrate his military successes. Unfortunately, Napoléon’s strategic and architectural visions were not entirely on the same plane, and the Arc de Triomphe proved something of an embarrassment. Although the emperor wanted the monument completed in time for an 1810 parade in honor of his new bride, Marie-Louise, it was still only a few feet high, and a dummy arch of painted canvas was strung up to save face. Empires come and go, but Napoléon’s had been gone for more than 20 years before the Arc was finally finished in 1836. A small museum halfway up recounts its history.

The Arc de Triomphe is notable for magnificent sculptures by François Rude, including The Departure of the Volunteers in 1792, better known as La Marseillaise, to the right of the arch when viewed from the Champs-Élysées. Names of Napoléon’s generals are inscribed on the stone facades—the underlined names identify the hallowed figures who fell in battle.

TIP France’s Unknown Soldier is buried beneath the arch, and a commemorative flame is rekindled every evening at 6:30. That’s the most atmospheric time to visit, but, to beat the crowds, come early in the morning or buy your ticket online (€1.60 service fee).

The traffic circle around the Arc is named for Charles de Gaulle, but it’s known to Parisians as “L’Étoile,” or the Star—a reference to the streets that fan out from it. Climb the stairs to the top of the arch and you can see the star effect of the 12 radiating avenues and the vista down the Champs-Élysées toward Place de la Concorde and the distant Musée du Louvre.

TIP Be wary of the traffic circle that surrounds the arch. It’s infamous for accidents—including one several years ago that involved the French transport minister. Always use the underground passage from the northeast corner of the Avenue des Champs-Élysées. | Pl. Charles-de-Gaulle, Champs-Élysées | 01–55–37–73–77 | arc-de-triomphe.monuments-nationaux.fr | €8 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10 am–11 pm; Oct.–Mar., daily 10 am–10:30 pm | Station: Métro or RER: Étoile.

FAMILY | Avenue des Champs-Élysées.

Marcel Proust lovingly described the genteel elegance of the storied Champs-Élysées (pronounced chahnz-eleezay, with an “n” sound instead of “m” and no “p”) during its Belle Époque heyday, when its cobblestones resounded with the clatter of horses and carriages. Today, despite unrelenting traffic and the intrusion of chain stores and fast-food franchises, the avenue still sparkles. There’s always something happening here: stores are open late (and many are open on Sunday, a rarity in Paris); nightclubs remain top destinations; and cafés offer prime people-watching, though you’ll pay for the privilege—after all, this is Europe’s most expensive piece of real estate. Along the 2-km (1¼-mile) stretch, you can find marquee names in French luxury, like Cartier, Guerlain, and Louis Vuitton. Car manufacturers lure international visitors with space-age showrooms. Old stalwarts, meanwhile, are still going strong—including the Lido cabaret and Fouquet’s, whose celebrity clientele extends back to James Joyce. The avenue is also the setting for the last leg of the Tour de France bicycle race (the third or fourth Sunday in July), as well as Bastille Day (July 14) and Armistice Day (November 11) ceremonies. The Champs-Élysées, which translates to “Elysian Fields” (the resting place of the blessed in Greek mythology), began life as a cow pasture and in 1666 was transformed into a park by the royal landscape architect André Le Nôtre. Traces of its green origins are visible toward the Concorde, where elegant 19th-century park pavilions house the historic restaurants Ledoyen, Laurent, and the more recent Le Nôtre. | Champs-Élysée | Station: Champs-Élysées–Clemenceau, Franklin-D.-Roosevelt, George V, Étoile.

Grand Palais.

With its curved-glass roof and gorgeously restored Belle Époque ornamentation, you can’t miss the Grand Palais whether you’re approaching from the Seine or the Champs-Élysées. It forms an elegant duo with the Petit Palais across Avenue Winston Churchill: both stone buildings, adorned with mosaics and sculpted friezes, were built for the 1900 World’s Fair, and, like the Eiffel Tower, were not intended to be permanent. The exquisite main exhibition space called le Nef (or nave) plays host to large-scale shows that might focus on anything from jewelry to cars. The art-oriented shows staged here are some of the hottest tickets in town. Previous must-sees included an Edward Hopper retrospective, “Marie-Antoinette,” and “Picasso and the Masters.” TIP To skip the long queue, book an advance ticket online for an extra euro. | Av. Winston Churchill, Champs-Élysées | 01–44–13–17–17 | www.grandpalais.fr, www.rmn.fr for reservations | €12 (can vary) | Wed.–Mon. 10–8 or 10–10, depending on exhibit; closed Tues. | Station: Champs-Élysées–Clemenceau.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Guimet.

The outstanding Musée Guimet boasts the western world’s biggest collection of Asian art, thanks to the 19th-century wanderings of Lyonnaise industrialist Émile Guimet. Exhibits, enriched by the state’s vast holdings, are laid out geographically in airy, light-filled rooms. Just past the entry, you can find the largest assemblage of Khmer sculpture outside Cambodia. The second floor has statuary and masks from Nepal, ritual funerary art from Tibet, and jewelry and fabrics from India. Peek into the library rotunda, where Monsieur Guimet once entertained the city’s notables under the gaze of eight carytids atop ionic columns; Mata Hari danced here in 1905. The much-heralded Chinese collection, made up of 20,000-odd objects, covers seven millennia. Pick up a free English-language audioguide and brochure at the entrance. If you need a pick-me-up, stop at the Salon des Porcelaines café on the lower level for a ginger milk shake. TIP Don’t miss the Guimet’s impressive Buddhist Pantheon, with two floors of Buddhas from China and Japan, and a Japanese garden. Admission is free and it’s just up the street at 19 avenue d’Iéna. | 6 pl. d’Iéna, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 01–56–52–53–00 | www.guimet.fr | €7.50; €9.50 with temporary exhibition | Wed.–Mon. 10–6; closed Tues. | Station: Iéna, Boissiére.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Marmottan Monet.

A few years ago the underrated Marmottan tacked “Monet” onto its official name—and justly so, as this is the largest collection of the artist’s works anywhere. More than 100 pieces, donated by his son Michel, occupy a specially built basement gallery in an elegant 19th-century mansion, which was once the hunting lodge of the Duke de Valmy. Among them you can find such works as the Cathédrale de Rouen series (1892–96) and Impression: Soleil Levant (Impression: Sunrise, 1872), the painting that helped give the Impressionist movement its name. Other exhibits include letters exchanged by Impressionist painters Berthe Morisot and Mary Cassatt. Upstairs, the mansion still feels like a graciously decorated private home. Empire furnishings fill the salons overlooking the Jardin de Ranelagh on one side and the private yard on the other. There’s also a captivating room of illuminated medieval manuscripts. TIP To best understand the collection’s context, buy an English-language catalog in the museum shop on your way in. | 2 rue Louis-Boilly, Passy-Auteuil | 01–44–96–50–33 | www.marmottan.com | €10 | Wed.–Sun. 10–6 (until 8 Thurs.); closed Mon. | Station: La Muette.

Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris.

The “little” palace has a small, overlooked collection of excellent painting, sculpture, and objets d’art, with works by Monet, Gauguin, and Courbet, among others. Temporary exhibitions, beefed up in recent years (and often free), are particularly good—especially those dedicated to photography. The building, like the Grand Palais across the street, is an architectural marvel of marble, glass, and gilt built for the 1900 World’s Fair, with impressive entry doors and huge windows overlooking the river. Search directly above the main galleries for 16 plaster busts set into the wall representing famous artists. Outside, note two eye-catching sculptures: French WWI hero Georges Clemenceau faces the Champs-Élysées, while a resolute Winston Churchill faces the Seine. TIP In warmer weather, head to the garden café with terrace seating. | Av. Winston Churchill, Champs-Élysées | 01–53–43–40–00 | www.petitpalais.paris.fr | Permanent collection free; temporary exhibit entry fees vary | Tues.–Sun. 10–6, Thurs. until 8 for temporary exhibits; closed Mon. | Station: Champs-Élysées–Clemenceau.

QUICK BITES: Le Jardin du Petit Palais.

The quiet little café hidden in the lush garden inside the Petit Palais is one of this quarter’s best-kept secrets. | Av. Winston Churchill, Champs-Élysées | 01–53–43–40–00 | www.petitpalais.paris.fr | Tues.–Sun. 10–5:15 (7:30 Thurs. during temporary exhibitions); closed Mon. | Station: Champs-Élysées-Clemenceau.

WORTH NOTING

Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent.

With his longtime business and life partner, Pierre Bergé, the late fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent reopened his former atelier as a gallery and archive of his work in 2004. Unfortunately, YSL’s private collection of dresses can be viewed only on private group tours booked in advance. What you can see here are exhibitions staged twice annually. Themes include painting, photography and, of course, fashion—such as a retrospective on couture maven Nan Kempner. Check the website to see what’s on. | 3 rue Léonce Reynaud, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 01–44–31–64–31 | www.fondation-pb-ysl.net | €7 | Tues.–Sun. 11–6 (last entry at 5:15) | Station: Alma-Marceau.

Maison de Baccarat.

Designer Philippe Starck brought an irreverent Alice in Wonderland approach to the HQ and museum of the venerable Baccarat crystal firm. Relocated to the 16e arrondissement in 2003, Starck played on the building’s surrealist legacy: Cocteau, Dalí, Buñuel, and Man Ray were all frequent guests of the mansion’s onetime owner, Countess Marie-Laure de Noailles. At the entrance, talking heads are projected onto giant crystal urns, and a lighted chandelier is submerged in an aquarium. Upstairs, the museum features masterworks created by Baccarat since 1764, including soaring candlesticks made for Czar Nicholas II and the perfume flacon Dalí designed for Schiaparelli. Don’t miss the rotunda’s “Alchemy” section by Gérard Garouste showcasing the technical history of cutting, wheel-engraving, enamelling, and gilding. If you’re in the mood for shopping, contemporary crystal by top-name designers, as well as stemware, vases, tableware, jewelry, chandeliers, and even furniture is sold in the on-site shop. TIP Set aside a few moments to enjoy the little park just outside in the Place des États-Unis with impressive statues of Washington and Lafayette. | 11 pl. des États-Unis, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | Montfort-L’Amaury | 01–40–22–11–00 | www.baccarat.fr | €5 | Mon. and Wed.–Sat. 10–6:30 | Station: Iéna.

FAMILY | Palais de Chaillot.

This honey-color Art Deco cultural center on Place du Trocadéro was built in the 1930s to replace a Moorish-style building constructed for the 1878 World’s Fair. Its esplanade is a top draw for camera-toting visitors intent on snapping the perfect shot of the Eiffel Tower. In the building to the left is the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine—an excellent architecture museum—and the Theâtre National de Chaillot, which occasionally stages plays in English. Also here is the Institut Français d’Architecture, an organization and school. The twin building to the right contains the Musée National de la Marine, a charming small museum showcasing nautical history; and the Musée de l’Homme, a natural history museum that’s closed for renovation until late 2015. Sculptures and fountains adorn the garden leading to the Seine. | Pl. du Trocadéro, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | Station: Trocadéro.

Palais de Tokyo.

The go-to address for some of the city’s funkiest exhibitions, the Palais de Tokyo is a stripped-down venue that spotlights provocative, ambitious contemporary art. There is no permanent collection: instead, cutting-edge temporary shows are staged in a cavernous space reminiscent of a light-filled industrial loft. The programming extends to performance art, concerts, readings, and fashion shows. Night owls will appreciate the midnight closing. TIP The museum’s Tokyo Eat restaurant—serving an affordable French-Asian fusion menu—is a haunt of hip locals, especially at lunch. Visit the offbeat gift shop for souvenirs that are as edgy and subversive as the exhibits. | 13 av. du Président Wilson, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 01–81–97–35–88 | www.palaisdetokyo.com | €10 | Wed.–Mon. noon–midnight; closed Tues. | Station: Iéna.

Fodor’s Choice | Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode.

The city’s Museum of Fashion occupies a suitably fashionable mansion—the 19th-century residence of Marie Brignole-Sale, Duchess of Galliera; and, having emerged from an extensive makeover in September 2013, it is now more stylish than ever. Inside, temporary exhibitions focus on costume and clothing design (a reopening retrospective, for instance, honored the visionary Azzedine Alaïa). Covering key moments in fashion history and showcasing iconic French designers, the museum’s collection includes 100,000 dresses and accessories that run the gamut from basic streetwear to haute couture. Details on shows (there are no permanent displays) are available on the museum website. TIP Don’t miss the lovely 19th-century garden that encircles the palace. | 10 av. Pierre-1er-de-Serbie, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 01–56–52–86–00 | palaisgalliera.paris.fr | €8, admission varies | Tues.–Sun. 10–6 (Thurs. until 9) during temporary exhibits only; closed Mon. | Station: Iéna.

AROUND THE LOUVRE

Between Faubourg St-Honoré and Les Halles, you can find some of Paris’s top draws—namely the mighty Musée du Louvre and, next door, the majestic Jardin des Tuileries. The garden is home to the Musée de l’Orangerie, with its curved galleries showcasing Monet’s Water Lilies, while the nearby Jeu De Paurne and Les Arts Décoratifs are musts for design buffs. Hidden just off Place Colette is the Palais-Royal, a romantic garden ringed by arcades with boutiques selling everything from old-fashioned music boxes to fashion-forward frocks.

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TOP ATTRACTIONS

Galerie Vivienne.

Considered the grande dame of Paris’s 19th-century passages couverts—the world’s first shopping malls—this graceful covered arcade evokes an age of gaslights and horse-drawn carriages. Once Parisians came to passages like this one to tred tiled floors instead of muddy streets, and to see and be seen browsing boutiques under the glass-and-iron roofs. Today, the Galerie Vivienne still attracts top-flight retailers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier (6 rue Vivienne) and the high-quality secondhand clothes seller La Marelle (No. 21), as well as shops selling accessories, housewares, and fine wine. TIP The Place des Victoires, a few steps away, is one of Paris’s most picturesque squares. In the center is a statue of an outsized Louis XIV (1643–1715), the Sun King, who appears almost as large as his horse. | Main entrance at4 rue des Petits-Champs, Louvre/Tuileries | Station: Palais-Royal/Bourse.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Jardin des Tuileries.

The quintessential French garden, with its verdant lawns, manicured rows of trees, and gravel paths, was designed by André Le Nôtre for Louis XIV. After the king moved his court to Versailles in 1682, the Tuileries became the place for stylish Parisians to stroll. (Ironically, the name derives from the decidedly unstylish factories which once occupied this area: they produced tuiles, or roof tiles, fired in kilns called tuileries.) Monet and Renoir captured the garden with paint and brush, and it’s no wonder the Impressionists loved it—the gray, austere light of Paris’s famously overcast days make the green trees appear even greener.

The garden still serves as a setting for one of the city’s loveliest walks. Laid out before you is a vista of must-see monuments, with the Louvre at one end and the Place de la Concorde at the other. The Eiffel Tower is on the Seine side, along with the Musée d’Orsay, reachable across a footbridge in the center of the garden. A good place to begin is at the Louvre end, at the Arc du Carrousel, a stone-and-marble arch ordered by Napoléon to showcase the bronze horses he stole from St. Mark’s Cathedral in Venice. The horses were eventually returned and replaced here with a statue of a quadriga, a four-horse chariot. On the Place de la Concorde end, twin buildings bookend the garden. On the Seine side, the former royal greenhouse is now the exceptional Musée de l’Orangerie, home to the largest display of Monet’s lovely Water Lilies series, as well as a sizable collection of early-20th-century paintings. On the opposite end is the Jeu de Paume, which has some of the city’s best temporary photography exhibits.

TIP Garden buffs will enjoy the small bookstore at the Place de la Concorde entrance, open 10 am to 7 pm. Aside from volumes on gardening and plants (including some titles in English), it has gift items, knickknacks, and toys for the junior gardener. The Tuileries is one of the best places in Paris to take kids if they’re itching to run around. There’s a carrousel (€2.50), trampolines (€2) and, in summer, an amusement park. If you’re hungry, look for carts serving gelato from Amorino or sandwiches from the chain bakery Paul. Also, there are four cafés with terraces in the center of the garden. One of the two closer to Place de la Concorde—Le Médicis—serves fare that’s a bit more upscale. | Bordered by Quai des Tuileries, Pl. de la Concorde, Rue de Rivoli, and the Louvre, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–40–20–90–43 | Free | June–Aug., daily 7 am–11 pm; Apr., May, and Sept., daily 7:30 am–9 pm; Oct.–Mar., daily 7:30–7:30 | Station: Tuileries or Concorde.

Fodor’s Choice | The Louvre.

The most recognized symbol of Paris is the Tour Eiffel, but the ultimate traveler’s prize is the Louvre. This is the world’s greatest art museum—and the largest, with 675,000 square feet of works from almost every civilization on earth. The three most popular pieces here are, of course, the Mona Lisa, the Venus de Milo, and Winged Victory. Beyond these must-sees, your best bet is to focus on whatever interests you the most—and don’t despair about getting lost, for you’re bound to stumble on something memorable. Pick up an excellent color-coded map at the information desk. There are slick Nintendo 3DS multimedia guides at the entrance to each wing; for €5 you get four self-guided tours and details about 250 works of art, plus a function to help you find your bearings. There are also 90-minute guided tours (€15) in English daily at 11 and 2. Thematic leaflets (including some for kids) are available from the front desk.

Bear in mind that the Louvre is much more than a museum—it represents a saga that started centuries ago, having been a fortress at the turn of the 13th century, and later a royal residence. It was not until the 16th century, under François I, that today’s Louvre began to take shape, and through the years Henry IV, Louis XIII, Louis XV, Napoléon I, and Napoléon III all contributed to its construction. Napoléon Bonaparte’s military campaigns at the turn of the 19th century brought a new influx of holdings, as his soldiers carried off treasures from each invaded country. During World War II the most precious artworks were hidden, while the remainder was looted. Most of the stolen pieces were recovered, though, after the liberation of Paris. No large-scale changes were made until François Mitterrand was elected president in 1981, when he kicked off the Grand Louvre project to expand and modernize the museum.

Mitterrand commissioned I.M. Pei’s Pyramide, the giant glass pyramid surrounded by three smaller pyramids that opened in 1989 over the new entrance in the Cour Napoléon. In 2012, the Louvre’s newest architectural wonder debuted—the 30,000-square-foot Arts of Islam wing. Built into the Cour Visconti in the Denon wing and topped with an undulating golden roof evoking a veil blowing in the wind, the two-level galleries house one of the world’s largest collections of art from all corners of the Islamic world.

The Louvre comprises three wings—the Richelieu, the Sully, and the Denon—arranged like a horseshoe, with the Pyramide nestled outside in the middle. Entering from it, head upstairs to the sculpture courtyards in the Richelieu wing, where you’ll find the Marly Horses, four equine sculptures—two carved for Louis XIV and two for Louis XV—in Cour Marly. The ground floor and underground rooms in this wing contain 5th- to 19th-century French sculpture, and the Near East Antiquities Collection, including the Lamassu, carved 8th-century winged beasts. On the first floor of this wing you’ll find the Royal Apartments of Napoléon III, a dozen elaborately decorated reception rooms. Continue to the second floor for the French and Northern School paintings, including Vermeer’s The Lacemaker. The entrance to the Sully wing is the most impressive, as you can walk around the 12th-century foundations and vestiges of the original medieval moat. Below ground is also the largest display of Egyptian antiques in the world after that of the Cairo museum, featuring such artifacts as Ramses II, a beautifully proportioned statue from the site of Tanis. Upstairs in Salle 16 is the armless Venus de Milo, a 2nd-century representation of the goddess Aphrodite. She was cleaned and restored over six months in 2010, the work taking place after hours and on Tuesday, when the museum is closed. The first and second floors of the Sully Wing boast decorative arts from all over Europe, as well as 17th-century French paintings, including the Turkish Bath by Jean-August-Dominique Ingres. Don’t miss one of the newest additions, the contemporary ceiling in Salle 32 on the first floor by American Cy Twombly, unveiled in 2010. On the first floor, period rooms (set to reopen in late 2014) contain 18th-century furnishings and objets d’art. To the south and east of the Pyramide entrance are galleries displaying early Renaissance sculpture in the Denon Wing. Don’t skip the coat checks on the ground floor of the Denon or Richelieu wings—much of the museum is hot and stuffy. Walk up the marble Escalier Daru to discover the sublime (and newly cleaned) Winged Victory of Samothrace, a statue found on a tiny Greek island that was carved in 305 BC to commemorate the naval victory of Demetrius Poliocretes over the Turks. In the paintings section of the Denon Wing, you’ll find three by Leonardo da Vinci, including the most famous painting in the world: the Mona Lisa, located in Salle 7. Head across to Salle 75 for the Coronation of Napoléon, or to Salle 77 for the graphic 1819 Raft of the Medusa, the first work of art based on a real news event, in this case the survivors of the wreck of a French ship.

TIP The eventual launch of the Louvre’s online reservation system will mean less time in the ticket line and more time ogling the art; until then, shorten your wait by avoiding the main entrance at the Pyramide and heading for the entrance in the underground mall, Carrousel du Louvre (which has automatic ticket machines), or to the Porte de Lions entrance (closed Friday) on the southwestern corner. Note that the shortest lines tend to be around 9:30 am and 1 pm. Crowds are also thinner on Wednesday and Friday nights, when the museum is open late.

Need a break? Visit an on-site café (like Café Richelieu, run by upscale confiseur Angelina); or pop out to an open-air café in the Jardin de Tuileries (ticket holders can come and go through the Porte Richelieu on the Rue de Rivoli side).

If you have your heart set on seeing a particular work, check the website for room closings; renovations are always taking place. Remember that the Louvre is closed Tuesday. | Palais du Louvre, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–40–20–53–17 information | www.louvre.fr | €12; €13 for Napoléon Hall exhibitions; €16 with all temporary exhibits and same-day entry to Musée Eugène Delacroix; free 1st Sun. of month | Mon., Thurs., and weekends 9–6, Wed. and Fri. 9–9:30; closed Tues. | Station: Palais-Royal–Musée du Louvre.

Jeu de Paume.

This Napoleon III-era building at the north entrance of the Jardin des Tuileries began life in 1861 as a place to play jeu de paume (or “palm game”), a forerunner of tennis. It later served as a transfer point for art looted by the Germans during World War II. Today, it’s been given another lease on life as an ultramodern, white-walled showcase for excellent temporary exhibits of photography featuring up-and-comers as well as icons such as Diane Arbus, Richard Avedon, Cindy Sherman, and Robert Frank. | 1 pl. de la Concorde, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–47–03–12–50 | www.jeudepaume.org | €8.50 | Tues. 11–9, Wed.–Sun. 11–7; closed Mon. | Station: Concorde.

Musée de l’Orangerie.

The lines can be long to see Claude Monet’s huge, meditative Water Lilies (Nymphéas), displayed in two curved galleries designed in 1914 by the master himself. But they are well worth the wait. These works are the highlight of the Orangerie Museum’s small but excellent collection, which includes early-20th-century paintings by Renoir, Cézanne, and Matisse. Many hail from the private holdings of art dealer Paul Guillaume (1891–1934), including Guillaume’s portrait by Modigliani entitled Novo Pilota, or new pilot, signaling Guillaume’s status as an important presence in the arts world. Built in 1852 to shelter orange trees, the museum reopened in 2006 after a long renovation that unearthed a portion of the city’s 16th-century wall (you can see remnants on the lower floor). | Jardin des Tuileries at Pl. de la Concorde, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–44–77–80–07 | www.musee-orangerie.fr | €9; €16 joint ticket with Musée d’Orsay | Wed.–Mon. 9–6; closed Tues. | Station: Concorde.

Place de la Concorde.

This square at the foot of the Champs-Élysées was originally named after Louis XV. It later became the Place de la Révolution, where crowds cheered as Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette, and some 2,500 others lost their heads to the guillotine. Renamed Concorde in 1836, it got a new centerpiece: the 75-foot granite Obelisk of Luxor, a gift from Egypt quarried in the 8th century BC. Among the handsome 18th-century buildings facing the square is the Hôtel Crillon, which was originally built as a private home by Gabriel, the architect of Versailles’s Petit Trianon. | Champs-Élysées | Station: Concorde.

Fodor’s Choice | Palais-Royal.

The quietest, most romantic Parisian garden is enclosed within the former home of Cardinal Richelieu (1585–1642). It’s an ideal spot to while away an afternoon, cuddling with your sweetheart on a bench under the trees, soaking up the sunshine beside the fountain, or browsing the 400-year-old arcades that are now home to boutiques ranging from quirky (picture Anna Joliet’s music boxes) to chic (think designs by Stella McCartney and Marc Jacobs). One of the city’s oldest restaurants is here, the haute-cuisine Le Grand Véfour, where brass plaques recall regulars like Napoléon and Victor Hugo. Built in 1629, the palais became royal when Richelieu bequeathed it to Louis XIII. Other famous residents include Jean Cocteau and Colette, who wrote of her pleasurable “country” view of the province à Paris. Today, the garden often plays host to giant-size temporary art installations sponsored by another tenant, the Ministry of Culture. The courtyard off Place Colette is outfitted with an unusual collection of short black-and-white columns created in 1986 by artist Daniel Buren. | Pl. du Palais-Royal, Louvre/Palais-Royal | Station: Palais-Royal.

Place Vendôme.

Jules-Hardouin Mansart, an architect of Versailles Palace, designed this perfectly proportioned octagonal plaza near the Tuileries in 1702; and, to maintain a uniform appearance, he gave the surrounding hôtels particuliers (private mansions) identical facades. It was originally called Place des Conquêtes to extoll the military conquests of Louis XIV, whose statue on horseback graced the center until Revolutionaries destroyed it in 1792. Later, Napoléon ordered his likeness erected atop a 144-foot column modestly modeled after Rome’s Trajan Column. But that, too, was toppled in 1871 by painter Gustave Courbet and his band of radicals. The Third Republic raised a new column and sent Courbet the bill, though he died in exile before paying it. Chopin lived and died at No. 12, which is also where Napoléon III enjoyed trysts with his mistress; since 1902 it has been home to the high-end jeweler Chaumet. The Hotel Ritz at No. 15 and its famous Hemingway Bar—closed in 2012 for a top-to-bottom renovation—is slated to reopen in late 2014 or early 2015. | Louvre/Tuileries | Station: Tuileries.

WORTH NOTING

Comédie Française.

Refined productions by Molière and Racine are staged regularly (though only in French) at the vintage venue where actress Sarah Bernhardt began her career. Founded in 1680 by Louis XIV, the theater finally opened its doors to the public in 1799. It nearly burned to the ground a hundred years later. The current building dates from 1900 and underwent an extensive renovation in 2012. | 1 pl. Colette, Louvre/Tuileries | 08–25–10–16–80 €0.15 per min | www.comedie-francaise.fr | Station: Palais-Royal.

Église de la Madeleine.

With its rows of uncompromising columns, this enormous neoclassical edifice in the center of the Place de la Madeleine was consecrated as a church in 1842, nearly 78 years after construction began. Initially planned as a Baroque building, it was later razed and begun anew by an architect who had the Roman Pantheon in mind. Interrupted by the Revolution, the site was razed yet again when Napoléon decided to make it into a Greek temple dedicated to the glory of his army. Those plans changed when the army was defeated and the emperor deposed. Other ideas for the building included making it into a train station, a market, and a library. Finally, Louis XVIII decided to make it a church, which it still is today. Classical concerts are held here regularly, some of them free. | Pl. de la Madeleine, Faubourg | 01–44–51–69–00 | www.eglise-lamadeleine.com | Daily 9:30–7 | Station: Madeleine.

Les Arts Décoratifs.

Sharing a wing of the Musée du Louvre, but with a separate entrance and admission charge, Les Arts Décoratifs is actually three museums in one. Spread across nine floors, it showcases a stellar array of decorative arts, design and fashion, and graphics. The collection includes altarpieces from the Middle Ages and furnishings from the Italian Renaissance to the present day. There are period rooms reflecting the ages, such as the early 1820s salon of the Duchesse de Berry (who actually lived in the building), plus several rooms reproduced from designer Jeanne Lanvin’s 1920s apartment. Don’t miss the gilt-and–green velvet bed of the Parisian courtesan who inspired the boudoir in Émile Zola’s novel Nana. You can hear Zola’s description of it on the free English audioguide, which is highly recommended. The second-floor jewelry gallery is a must-see, and special events are often staged in the Nef (nave).

The center is also home to an exceptional collection of textiles, advertising posters, films, and related objects that are shown in rotating temporary exhibitions. Before leaving, take a break at Le Saut du Loup restaurant: its outdoor terrace is an ideal spot for lunch or afternoon tea. Shoppers should also browse through the tempting on-site store (107 Rivoli), which carries books, jewelry, paper products, toys, tableware, and items inspired by the past but with an up-to-date design. TIP If you’re combining a visit here with the Musée du Louvre, note that the two close on different days, so don’t come on Monday or Tuesday. If you’re pairing it with the exquisite Nissim de Camondo (a partner museum), joint tickets are available. | 107 rue de Rivoli, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–44–55–57–50 | www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr | €9.50; €13.50 with Nef temporary exhibits; €12 joint ticket with Musée Nissim de Camondo | Tues.–Sun. 11–6 (Thurs. until 9 during exhibits); closed Mon. | Station: Palais-Royal.

St-Eustache.

Built as the market neighborhood’s answer to Notre-Dame, this massive church is decidedly squeezed into its surroundings. Constructed between 1532 and 1640 with foundations dating to 1200, the church mixes a Gothic exterior, complete with impressive flying buttresses, and a Renaissance interior. On the east end (Rue Montmartre), Dutch master Rubens’ Pilgrims of Emmaus (1611) hangs in a small chapel. Two chapels to the left is Keith Haring’s The Life of Christ, a triptych in bronze and white-gold patina: it was given to the church after the artist’s death in 1990, in recognition of the parish’s efforts to help victims of AIDS. On the Rue Montmartre side of the church, look for the small door to Saint Agnes’s crypt, topped with a stone plaque noting the date, 1213, below a curled fish, an indication the patron made his fortune in fish. | 2 impasse St-Eustache, Beaubourg/Les Halles | www.saint-eustache.org for concert info | Weekdays 9:30–7, weekends 9–7 | Station: Les Halles; RER: Châtelet Les Halles.

Hemingway’s Paris

There is a saying: “Everyone has two countries, his or her own—and France.” For the Lost Generation after World War I, these words rang particularly true. Lured by favorable exchange rates, free-flowing alcohol, and a booming artistic scene, many American writers, composers, and painters moved to Paris in the 1920s and 1930s, Ernest Hemingway among them. He arrived in Paris with his first wife, Hadley, in December 1921 and made for the Rive Gauche—the Hôtel Jacob et d’Angleterre, to be exact (still operating at 44 rue Jacob). To celebrate their arrival the couple went to the Café de la Paix for a meal they nearly couldn’t afford.

Hemingway worked as a journalist and quickly made friends with other expat writers such as Gertrude Stein and Ezra Pound. In 1922 the Hemingways moved to 74 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, a bare-bones apartment with no running water (his writing studio was around the corner, on the top floor of 39 rue Descartes). Then in early 1924 the couple and their baby son settled at 113 rue Notre-Dame des Champs. Much of The Sun Also Rises, Hemingway’s first serious novel, was written at nearby café La Closerie des Lilas. These were the years in which he forged his writing style, paring his sentences down to the pith. As he noted in A Moveable Feast, “hunger was good discipline.” There were some particularly hungry months when Hemingway gave up journalism and tried to publish short stories, and the family was “very poor and very happy.”

They weren’t happy for long. In 1926, just when The Sun Also Rises made him famous, Hemingway left Hadley and the next year wedded his mistress, Pauline Pfeiffer, across town at St Honoré-d’Eylau, then moved to 6 rue Férou, near the Musée du Luxembourg, whose collection of Cézanne landscapes (now in the Musée d’Orsay) he revered.

For gossip and books, and to pick up his mail, Papa would visit Shakespeare & Co., then at 12 rue de l’Odéon, owned by Sylvia Beach, who became a trusted friend. For cash and cocktails Hemingway usually headed to the upscale Rive Droite. He collected the former at the Guaranty Trust Company, at 1 rue des Italiens. He found the latter, when he was flush, at the bar of the Hôtel Crillon, or, when poor, at the Caves Mura, at 19 rue d’Antin, or Harry’s Bar, still in brisk business at 5 rue Daunou. Hemingway’s legendary association with the Hotel Ritz was sealed during the Liberation in 1944, when he strode in at the head of his platoon and “liberated” the joint by ordering martinis all around. Here Hemingway asked Mary Welsh to become his fourth wife, and here also, the story goes, a trunk full of notes on his first years in Paris turned up in the 1950s, giving him the raw material to write A Moveable Feast.

LES GRANDS BOULEVARDS

In Belle Époque Paris, the Grand Boulevards were the place to see and be seen: in the cafés, at the opera, or in the ornate passages, the glass-covered arcades that were the world’s first shopping malls. If you close your eyes, you can almost imagine the Grands Boulevards immortalized on canvas by the Impressionists: well-dressed Parisians strolling wide avenues dotted with shops, cafés, and horse-drawn carriages—all set against a backdrop of stately Haussmannian buildings. Today, despite the chain stores, sidewalk vendors, and fast-food joints, the Grands Boulevards remain the city’s shopping epicenter, home to the most popular grands magasins (department stores), Galeries Lafayette and Le Printemps, near place de l’Opéra at the heart of the long chain of avenues, which change names six times.

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TOP ATTRACTIONS

Galeries Lafayette.

The stunning Byzantine glass coupole (dome) of the city’s most famous department store is not to be missed. Amble to the center of the main store, amid the perfumes and cosmetics, and look up. If you’re not in the mood for shopping, sip a glass of champagne at the Bar à Bulles at the top of the first-floor escalator. Or have lunch at one of the restaurants, including a rooftop café in the main store (open in spring and summer). On your way down, the top floor of the main store is a good place to pick up interesting Parisian souvenirs. Next door, the excellent Lafayette Gourmet food hall, on the second floor of the men’s store, has one of the city’s best selections of delicacies. Try a green tea éclair from Japanese–French baker Sadaharu Aoki. | 40 bd. Haussmann, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–42–82–34–56 | www.galerieslafayette.com | Mon.–Wed., Fri., and Sat. 9:30–7:30, Thurs. 9:30–9; closed Sun. | Station: Chaussée d’Antin, Opéra; RER A: Auber.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Cernuschi.

Wealthy Milanese banker and patriot Enrico (Henri) Cernuschi fled to Paris in 1850 after the new Italian government collapsed, only to be arrested during the 1871 Paris Commune. He subsequently decided to wait out the unrest by traveling and collecting Asian art. Upon his return 18 months later, he had a special mansion built on the edge of Parc Monceau to house his treasures, notably a two-story bronze Buddha from Japan. Today, this well-appointed museum contains France’s second-most important collection of Asian art, after the Musée Guimet. Cernuschi had an eye not only for the bronze pieces he adored but also for Neolithic pottery (8,000 BC), mingqi tomb figures (300–900 AD), and an impressive array of terra-cotta figures from various dynasties. A collection highlight is La Tigresse, a bronze wine vessel in the shape of a roaring feline (11th century BC) purchased after Cernuschi’s death. Although the museum is free, there is a charge for temporary exhibitions: previous shows have featured Japanese drawings, Iranian sculpture, and Imperial Chinese bronzes. | 7 av. Velasquez, Parc Monceau | 01–53–96–21–50 | www.cernuschi.paris.fr | Free; temporary exhibitions €7 | Tues.–Sun. 10–6; closed Mon. | Station: Monceau.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Jacquemart-André.

Perhaps the city’s best small museum, the opulent Musée Jacquemart-André is home to a huge collection of art and furnishings lovingly assembled in the late 19th century by banking heir Edouard André and his artist wife, Nélie Jacquemart. Their midlife marriage in 1881 raised eyebrows—he was a dashing bachelor and a Protestant, and she, no great beauty, hailed from a modest Catholic family. Still, theirs was a happy union fused by a common passion for art. For six months every year, the couple traveled, most often to Italy, where they hunted works from the Renaissance, their preferred period. Their collection also includes French painters Fragonard, Jacques-Louis David, and François Boucher, and Dutch masters Van Dyke and Rembrandt. The Belle Époque mansion itself is a major attraction. The elegant ballroom, equipped with collapsible walls operated by then-state-of-the-art hydraulics, could hold 1,000 guests. The winter garden was a wonder of its day, spilling into the fumoir, where the dashing André would share cigars with the grands hommes (important men) of the day. You can tour the separate bedrooms—his in dusty pink, hers in pale yellow. The former dining room, now an elegant café features a ceiling by Tiepolo. Don’t forget to pick up the free audioguide in English, and do inquire about the current temporary exhibition (two per year), which is usually top-notch. TIP Plan on a Sunday visit and enjoy the popular brunch (€28.50) in the café from 11 to 3. Reservations are not accepted, so come early or late to avoid waiting in line. | 158 bd. Haussmann, Parc Monceau | 01–45–62–11–59 | www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com | €11 | Daily 10–6 (until 8:30 Mon. and Sat. during exhibitions) | Station: St-Philippe-du-Roule, Miromesnil.

Fodor’s Choice | Opéra Garnier.

Haunt of the Phantom of the Opera and the real-life inspiration for Edgar Degas’s dancer paintings, the gorgeous Opéra Garnier is one of two homes of the National Opera of Paris. The building, the Palais Garnier, was begun in 1860 by then-unknown architect Charles Garnier, who finished his masterwork 15 long years later, way over budget. Festooned with (real) gold leaf, colored marble, paintings, and sculpture from the top artists of the day, the opera house was about as subtle as Versailles and sparked controversy in post-Revolutionary France. The sweeping marble staircase, in particular, drew criticism from a public skeptical of its extravagance. But Garnier, determined to make a landmark that would last forever, spared no expense. The magnificent grand foyer is one of the most exquisite salons in France. In its heyday, the cream of Paris society strolled all 59 yards of the vast hall at intermission, admiring themselves in the towering mirrors. To see the opera house, buy a ticket for an unguided visit, which allows access to most parts of the building, including a peek into the auditorium. There is also a small ballet museum with a few works by Degas and the tutu worn by prima ballerina Anna Pavlova when she danced her epic Dying Swan in 1905. To get to it, pass through the unfinished entrance built for Napoléon III and his carriage (construction was abruptly halted when the emperor abdicated in 1870). On the upper level, you can see a sample of the auditorium’s original classical ceiling, which was later replaced with a modern version by an octogenarian Mark Chagall. His trademark willowy figures encircling the dazzling crystal chandelier—today the world’s third largest—shocked an unappreciative public upon its debut in 1964. Critics who fret that Chagall’s masterpiece clashes with the fussy crimson-and-gilt decor can take some comfort in knowing that the original ceiling is preserved underneath, encased in a plastic dome.

The Opéra Garnier plays host to the Paris Ballet as well as a few operas each season (most are performed at the Opéra Bastille). If you’re planning to see a performance, tickets cost €10–€195 and should be reserved as soon as they go on sale—typically a month ahead at the box office, earlier by phone or online; otherwise, try your luck last minute. TIP To learn about the building’s history, and get a taste of aristocratic life during the Second Empire, take an entertaining English-language tour. They’re offered most months at 11:30 and 2:30 on Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday; same times daily in summer. To complete the experience, dine at L’Opéra, the contemporary onsite restaurant run by star chef Christophe Aribert; or browse through the Palais Garnier gift shop for ballet-inspired wares, along with fine Bernardaud porcelain depicting the famous Chagall ceiling, and an exceptional selection of themed DVDs and books. | Pl. de l’Opéra, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 08–92–89–90–90 €0.34 per min | www.operadeparis.fr | €10; €12.50 for tours | Daily 10–5 (until 6 mid-July–Aug.) | Station: Opéra.

FAMILY | Parc Monceau.

This exquisitely landscaped park began in 1778 as the Duc de Chartres’s private garden. Though some of the land was sold off under the Second Empire (creating the exclusive real estate that now borders the park), the refined atmosphere and some of the fanciful faux ruins have survived. Immaculately dressed children play under the watchful eye of their nannies, while lovers cuddle on the benches. In 1797 André Garnerin, the world’s first-recorded parachutist, staged a landing in the park. The rotunda—known as the Chartres Pavilion—is surely the city’s grandest public restroom: it started life as a tollhouse. | Entrances on Bd. de Courcelles, Av. Velasquez, Av. Ruysdaël, Av. van Dyck, Parc Monceau | Station: Monceau.

WORTH NOTING

FAMILY | Chocostory: Le Musée Gourmand du Chocolat.

Considering that a daily dose of chocolate is practically obligatory in Paris, it’s hard to believe that this spot (opened in 2010) is the city’s first museum dedicated to the sweet stuff. Exhibits on three floors tell the story of chocolate from the earliest traces of the “divine nectar” in Mayan and Aztec cultures, through to its introduction in Europe by the Spanish, who added milk and sugar to the spicy dark brew and launched a continental craze. There are detailed explanations in English, with many for the kids. While the production of chocolate is a major topic, there is also a respectable collection of some 1,000 chocolate-related artifacts, such as terra-cotta Mayan sipping vessels (they blew into straws to create foam) and delicate chocolate pots in fine porcelain that were favored by the French royal court. TIP Frequent chocolate-making demonstrations finish with a free tasting. | 28 bd. de Bonne Nouvelle, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–42–29–68–60 | www.museeduchocolat.fr | €9 | Daily 10–6 (last entry at 5) | Station: Bonne-Nouvelle, Strasbourg, St-Denis.

Musée de la Vie Romantique.

A visit to the charming Museum of the Romantic Life, dedicated to novelist George Sand (1804–76), will transport you to the countryside. Occupying a pretty 1830s mansion in a tree-lined courtyard, the small permanent collection features drawings by Delacroix and Ingres, among others, though Sand is the undisputed star. Displays include glass cases stuffed with her jewelry and even a mold of the hand of composer Frederic Chopin—one of her many lovers. The museum, about a five-minute walk from the Musée National Gustave-Moreau, is in a picturesque neighborhood once called New Athens, a reflection of the architectural tastes of the writers and artists who lived there. There is usually an interesting temporary exhibit here, too. TIP The garden café (open March to October) is a lovely spot for lunch or afternoon tea. | 16 rue Chaptal, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–55–31–95–67 | www.vie-romantique.paris.fr | Free; €7 temporary exhibits | Tues.–Sun. 10–6; closed Mon. | Station: Blanche, Pigalle, St-Georges.

Musée Nissim de Camondo.

The story of the Camondo family is steeped in tragedy, and it’s all recorded within the walls of this superb museum. Patriarch Moïse de Camondo, born in Istanbul to a successful banking family, built his showpiece mansion in 1911 in the style of the Petit Trianon at Versailles, and stocked it with some of the most exquisite furniture, wainscoting, and bibelots of the mid- to late 18th century. Despite his vast wealth and purported charm, his wife left him five years after their marriage. Then his son, Nissim, was killed in World War I. Upon Moïse’s death in 1935, the house and its contents were left to the state as a museum named for his lost son. A few years later, daughter Béatrice, her husband, and two children were murdered at Auschwitz. No heirs remained and the Camondo name died out. Today, the house remains an impeccable tribute to Moïse’s life, from the gleaming salons to the refined private rooms. | 63 rue de Monceau, Parc Monceau | 01–53–89–06–50 | www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr | €7.50; €12 joint ticket with Les Arts Décoratifs | Wed.–Sun. 10–5:30; closed Mon. and Tues. | Station: Villiers or Monceau.

MONTMARTRE

Montmartre has become almost too charming for its own good. Yes, it feels like a village (if you wander off the beaten path); yes, there are working artists here (though far fewer than there used to be); and yes, the best view of Paris is yours for free from the top of the hill (if there’s no haze). That’s why on any weekend day, year-round, you can find scores of visitors crowding these cobbled alleys, scaling the staircases that pass for streets, and queuing to see Sacré-Coeur, the “sculpted cloud,” at the summit.

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Moulin de la Galette.

Of the 14 windmills (moulins) that used to sit atop this hill, only two remain. They’re known collectively as Moulin de la Galette—the name being taken from the bread that the owners used to produce. The more storied of the two is Le Blute-fin. In the late 1800s there was a dance hall on the site, famously captured by Renoir (you can see the painting in the Musée d’Orsay). A facelift restored the windmill to its 19th-century glory; however, it is on private land and can’t be visited. Down the street is the other moulin, Le Radet. | Le Blute-fin, corner of Rue Lepic and Rue Tholozé, Montmartre | Station: Abbesses.

Place des Abbesses.

This triangular square is typical of the countrified style that has made Montmartre famous. Now a hub for shopping and people-watching, the place is surrounded by hip boutiques, sidewalk cafés, and shabby-chic restaurants—a prime habitat for the young, neo-bohemian crowd and a sprinkling of expats. Trendy streets like Rue Houdon and Rue des Martyrs have attracted small designers, an international beer seller, and even a cupcake shop. Some retailers remain open on Sunday afternoon. | Intersection of Rue des Abbesses and rue la Vieuville, Montmartre | Station: Abbesses.

Fodor’s Choice | Sacré-Coeur.

It’s hard to not feel as though you’re climbing up to heaven when you visit Sacred Heart Basilica, the white castle in the sky, perched atop Montmartre. The French government commissioned it in 1873 to symbolize the return of self-confidence after the devastating years of the Commune and Franco-Prussian War; and architect Paul Abadie employed elements from Romanesque and Byzantine styles when designing it—a mélange many critics dismissed as gaudy. Construction lasted until World War I, and the church was finally consecrated in 1919.

Many people come to Sacré-Coeur to admire the superlative view from the top of its 271-foot-high dome. If you opt to skip the climb up the spiral staircase, the view from the front steps is still ample compensation for the trip.

Inside, expect another visual treat—namely the massive golden mosaic set high above the choir. Created in 1922 by Luc-Olivier Merson, Christ in Majesty depicts Christ with a golden heart and outstretched arms, surrounded by various figures, including the Virgin Mary and Joan of Arc. It remains one of the largest mosaics of its kind. Also worth noting are the seemingly endless vaulted arches in the basilica’s crypt; the portico’s bronze doors, decorated with biblical scenes; and the stained-glass windows, which were installed in 1922, destroyed by a bombing during World War II (there were miraculously no deaths), and later rebuilt in 1946. In the basilica’s 262 foot-high campanile hangs La Savoyarde, one of the world’s heaviest bells, weighing about 19 tons.

TIP The best time to visit Sacré-Coeur is early morning or early evening, and preferably not on a Sunday, when the crowds are thick. If you’re coming to worship, there are daily masses. Photographers angling for the perfect shot of the church should aim for a clear blue-sky day or arrive at dusk, when the pink sky plays nicely with the lights of the basilica. To avoid the steps, take the funicular, which costs one métro ticket each way. | Pl. du Parvis-du-Sacré-Coeur, Montmartre | 01–53–41–89–00 | www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com | Basilica free; dome €6, crypt €3, combined ticket €8 | Basilica daily 6 am–10:30 pm; dome Oct.–Apr., daily 9–5; May.–Sept., daily 8:30–8; crypt daily 10–5 (closed Tues. and Wed.) | Station: Anvers, plus funicular; Jules Joffrin plus Montmartrobus.

WORTH NOTING

Bateau-Lavoir (Wash-barge).

The birthplace of Cubism isn’t open to the public, but a display in the front window details this unimposing spot’s rich history. Montmartre poet Max Jacob coined the name (it means “wash barge”) because the original structure here reminded him of the laundry boats that used to float in the Seine, and he joked that the warren of paint-splattered artists’ studios needed a good hosing down (wishful thinking, since the building had only one water tap). It was in the Bateau-Lavoir that, early in the 20th century, Pablo Picasso, Georges Braque, and Juan Gris made their first bold stabs at Cubism, and Picasso painted the groundbreaking Les Demoiselles d’Avignon in 1906–07. The experimental works of the artists weren’t met with open arms, even in liberal Montmartre. All but the facade was rebuilt after a fire in 1970. Like the original building, though, the current incarnation houses artists and their studios. | 13 pl. Émile-Goudeau, Montmartre | Station: Abbesses.

Moulin Rouge.

When this world-famous cabaret opened in 1889, aristocrats, professionals, and the working classes all flocked in to ogle the scandalous performers (the cancan was considerably more kinky in Toulouse-Lautrec’s day, when girls kicked off their knickers). There’s not much to see from the outside except for tourist buses and sex shops, but this square—called Place Blanche—takes its name from the chalky haze once churned up by carts carrying plaster of Paris down from the quarries. Souvenir seekers should check out the Moulin Rouge gift shop (around the corner at 11 rue Lepic), which sells better-quality official merchandise, from jewelry to sculpture, by reputable French makers. | 82 bd. de Clichy, Montmartre | 01–53–09–82–82 | www.moulinrouge.fr | Station: Blanche.

Musée de Montmartre.

In its turn-of-the-20th-century heyday, the building—now home to Montmartre’s historical museum—was a studio block for painters, writers, and cabaret artists. Foremost among them were Renoir (who painted the Moulin de la Galette, an archetypal scene of sun-drenched revelers, while he lived here) and Maurice Utrillo. Recapping the area’s history, the museum has a charming permanent collection which includes many Toulouse-Lautrec posters and original Eric Satie scores. An ambitious renovation that will double the current museum’s space and revitalize its lovely gardens is due to be completed by the end of 2014. The museum remains open in the meantime. | 12 rue Cortot, Montmartre | 01–49–25–89–37 | www.museedemontmartre.fr | €9 | Daily 10–6 | Station: Lamarck Caulaincourt.

Place du Tertre.

Artists have peddled their wares in this square for centuries. Though busloads of tourists have changed the atmosphere, if you come off-season—when the air is chilly and the streets are bare—you can almost feel what is was like when up-and-coming Picassos lived in the houses, which today are given over to souvenir shops and cafés. | East end of Rue Norvin, Place du Tertre, Montmartre | Station: Abbesses.

MARAIS

From swampy to swanky, the Marais has a fascinating history. Like an aging pop star, the quartier has remade itself many times, and today retains several identities. It’s the city’s epicenter of cool with hip boutiques, designer hotels, and art galleries galore; the hub of Paris’s gay community; and, though fading, the nucleus of Jewish life. You could easily spend your entire visit to Paris in this neighborhood—there is that much to do.

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FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Centre Pompidou.

Love it or hate it, the Pompidou is certainly the city’s most unique-looking building. Most Parisians have warmed to the industrial, Lego-like exterior that caused a scandal when it opened in 1977. Named after French president Georges Pompidou (1911–74), it was designed by then-unknowns Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers. The architects’ claim to fame was putting the building’s guts on the outside and color-coding them: water pipes are green, air ducts are blue, electrics are yellow, and things like elevators and escalators are red. Art from the 20th century to the present day is what you can find inside.

The Musée National d’Art Moderne (Modern Art Museum, entrance on Level 4) occupies the top two levels. Level 5 is devoted to modern art from 1905 to 1960, including major works by Matisse, Modigliani, Marcel Duchamp, and Picasso; Level 4 is dedicated to contemporary art from the ‘60s on, including video installations. The Galerie d’Enfants (Children’s Gallery) on the mezzanine level has interactive exhibits designed to keep the kids busy. Outside, next to the museum’s sloping plaza—where throngs of teenagers hang out (and where there’s free Wi-Fi)—is the Atelier Brancusi. This small, airy museum contains four rooms reconstituting Brancusi’s Montparnasse studios with works from all periods of his career. On the opposite side, in the Place Igor-Stravinsky, is the Stravinsky fountain, which has 16 gyrating mechanical figures in primary colors, including a giant pair of ruby red lips. On the opposite side of Rue Rambuteau, on the wall at the corner of Rue Clairvaux and Passage Brantôme, is the appealingly bizarre mechanical brass-and-steel clock, Le Défenseur de Temps.

TIP The Pompidou’s permanent collection takes up a relatively small amount of the space when you consider this massive building’s other features: temporary exhibition galleries, with a special wing for design and architecture; a highly regarded free reference library (there’s often a queue of university students on Rue Renard waiting to get in); and the basement, which includes two cinemas, a theater, a dance space, and a small, free exhibition space. On your way up the escalator, you’ll have spectacular views of Paris, ranging from the Tour Montparnasse, to the left, around to the hilltop Sacré-Coeur on the right. The trendy rooftop restaurant, Georges (www.beaumarly.com/en/georges/home), is a romantic spot for dinner. Be sure to reserve a table near the window.

There are public toilets on the lower level without the long lines of those on the ground floor. | Pl. Georges-Pompidou, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 01–44–78–12–33 | www.centrepompidou.fr | Museum and exhibitions €11–€13 (free 1st Sun. of month); Atelier Brancusi free | Museum and exhibitions Wed.–Mon. 11–9 (extended hrs Thurs. during temporary exhibitions); Atelier Brancusi Wed.–Mon. 2–6; closed Tues. | Station: Rambuteau.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Carnavalet.

If it has to do with Parisian history, it’s here. A fascinating hodgepodge of artifacts and art, the collection ranges from the prehistoric canoes used by Parisii tribes to the furniture of the cork-lined bedroom where Marcel Proust labored over his evocative novels. Thanks to scores of paintings, nowhere else in Paris can you get such a precise picture of the city’s evolution through the ages. The museum fills two adjacent mansions, the Hôtel Le Peletier de St-Fargeau and the Hôtel Carnavalet. The latter is a Renaissance jewel that in the mid-1600s became the home of writer Madame de Sévigné. Throughout her long life, Sévigné wrote hundreds of frank and funny letters to her daughter, giving an incomparable view of both public and private life during the time of Louis XIV. The museum offers a glimpse into her world, but the collection covers far more than just the 17th century. The exhibits on the Revolution are especially interesting, with scale models of guillotines and a replica of the Bastille prison carved from one of its stones. Louis XVI’s prison cell is reconstructed along with mementos of his life, even medallions containing locks of his family’s hair. Other impressive interiors are reconstructed from the Middle Ages through the Rococo period and into Art Nouveau—showstoppers include the Fouquet jewelry shop and the Café de Paris’s original furnishings. The sculpted garden at 16 rue des Francs Bourgeois is open from April to the end of October. Extensive renovations, begun in 2013, may be ongoing; be prepared for room closures. | 23 rue de Sévigné, Marais | 01–44–59–58–58 | www.carnavalet.paris.fr | Free; around €7 for temporary exhibitions | Tues.–Sun. 10–6; closed Mon. | Station: St-Paul.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Picasso.

To the chagrin of Picasso fans everywhere, this immensely popular museum in the regal 17th-century Hôtel Salé closed for a top-to-bottom overhaul in 2009, and delays have pushed back the reopening date to summer 2014. (About 200 works from the permanent collection have been on the road in the United States and elsewhere in the interim.) The good news is that the museum will emerge from its €52 million makeover thoroughly transformed, with more than double the dedicated public space. The exhibition area’s 34 rooms will cover almost 41,000 square feet; and a sprawling new building in the back garden, dedicated to temporary exhibitions and other programs, will open when the final stage of renovations wraps up.

The collection of more than 100,000 paintings, sculptures, drawings, documents, and other archival materials (much of it given to the government by Picasso’s heirs to settle a hefty tax bill following his death in 1973) spans the artist’s entire career; and while it doesn’t include his most recognizable works it does contain many of the paintings and sculptures treasured most by Picasso himself—among them pieces from his personal collection created by friends and influences such as Matisse, Braque, Cézanne, and Rousseau. TIP The reopening date remains subject to change, so check the website for updates or call before you go in case of further delays. | 5 rue de Thorigny, Marais | 01–42–71–25–21 | www.musee-picasso.fr | Admission to be determined when opened | Apr.–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–6; Oct.–Mar., 9:30–5:30 | Station: St-Sébastien.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Place des Vosges.

The oldest square in Paris and—dare we say it?—the most beautiful, the Place des Vosges represents an early stab at urban planning. The precise proportions offer a placid symmetry, but things weren’t always so calm here. Four centuries ago this was the site of the Palais des Tournelles, home to King Henry II and Queen Catherine de Medici. The couple staged regular jousting tournaments, and during one of them, in 1559, Henry was fatally lanced in the eye. Catherine fled for the Louvre, abandoning her palace and ordering it destroyed. In 1612 it became the Place Royal on the occasion of Louis XIII’s engagement to Anne of Austria. Napoléon renamed it Place des Vosges to honor the northeast region of Vosges, the first in the country to pony up taxes to the Revolutionary government.

At the base of the 36 redbrick-and-stone houses—nine on each side of the square—is an arcaded, covered walkway lined with art galleries, shops, and cafés. There’s also an elementary school, a synagogue (whose barrel roof was designed by Gustav Eiffel), and several chic hotels. The formal, gated garden’s perimeter is lined with chestnut trees; inside are a children’s play area and a fountain.

Aside from hanging out in the park, people come here to see the house of the man who once lived at No. 6—Victor Hugo, the author of Les Misérables and Notre-Dame de Paris (aka The Hunchback of Notre-Dame).

TIP One of the best things about this park is that you’re actually allowed to sit—or snooze or snack—on the grass during spring and summer. There is no better spot in the Marais for a picnic: you can pick up fixings at the nearby street market on Thursday and Saturday mornings (it’s on Boulevard Richard Lenoir between Rues Amelot and St-Sabin). The most likely approach to the Place des Vosges is from Rue de Francs Bourgeois, the main shopping street. However, for a grander entrance walk along Rue St-Antoine until you get to Rue de Birague, which leads directly into the square. | Off Rue des Francs Bourgeois, near Rue de Turenne, Marais | Station: Bastille, St-Paul.

WORTH NOTING

Hôtel de Sully (Hôtel de Béthune-Sully).

This early Baroque gem, built in 1624, is one of the city’s loveliest hôtels particuliers. Like much of the area, it fell into ruin until the 1950s, when it was rescued by the administration of French historic monuments, the Centre des Monuments Nationaux, which is based here. The recently renovated headquarters aren’t open to the public; however, you are welcome to enjoy the equally lovely garden. Stroll through it, past the Orangerie, to find a small passage into the nearby Place des Vosges: Sully’s best buddy, King Henri IV, would have lived there had he not been assassinated in 1610.TIP An on-site bookstore (with a 17th-century ceiling of exposed wooden beams) stocks specialized Paris guides in English. | 62 rue St-Antoine, Marais | 01–44–61–21–50 | www.sully.monuments-nationaux.fr | Daily 9–7 | Station: St-Paul.

Maison de Victor Hugo.

France’s most famous scribe lived in this house on the northeast corner of Place des Vosges between 1832 and 1848. It’s now a museum dedicated to the multitalented author of Les Misérables. In Hugo’s apartment on the second floor, you can see the tall desk, next to the short bed, where he began writing his masterwork Les Miz (as always, standing up). There are manuscripts and early editions of the novel on display, as well as others such as The Hunchback of Notre Dame. You can see illustrations of Hugo’s writings by other artists, including Bayard’s rendering of the impish Cosette holding her giant broom (which has graced countless Les Miz T-shirts). The collection includes many of Hugo’s own, sometimes macabre, ink drawings (he was a fine artist) and furniture from several of his homes. Particularly impressive is the room of carved and painted Chinese-style wooden panels that Hugo designed for the house of his mistress, Juliet Drouet, on the island of Guernsey, when he was exiled there for agitating against Napoléon III. Try to spot the intertwined Vs and Js. (Hint: Look for the angel’s trumpet in the left corner.) The first floor is dedicated to temporary exhibitions that often have modern ties to Hugo’s work. | 6 pl. des Vosges, Marais | 01–42–72–10–16 | www.musee-hugo.paris.fr | Free; €5–€7 for temporary exhibitions | Tues.–Sun. 10–6; closed Mon. | Station: St-Paul.

Maison Européenne de la Photographie (Center for European Photography).

Much of the credit for the city’s ascendancy as a hub of international photography goes to MEP and its director, Jean-Luc Monterosso, who also founded Paris’s hugely successful Mois de la Photo festival (a biennial event held in November of even-numbered years). The MEP hosts up to four simultaneous exhibitions, changing about every three months. Shows feature the work of an international crop of photographers and video artists. Works by superstar Annie Leibovitz or designer-photographer Karl Lagerfeld may overlap with a collection of self-portraits by an up-and-coming Japanese artist. MEP often stages retrospectives of the classics (by Doisneau, Cartier-Bresson, Man Ray, and others) from its vast private collection.TIP Programs are available in English and English-language tours are sometimes given; check the website for details. | 5 rue de Fourcy, Marais | 01–44–78–75–00 | www.mep-fr.org | €8, free Wed. after 5 | Wed.–Sun. 11–8; closed Mon. and Tues. | Station: St-Paul.

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme.

This excellent museum traces the tempestuous history of French and European Jews through art and history. Opened in 1998 in the refined 17th-century Hôtel St-Aignan, exhibits have good explanatory texts in English, and the free English audioguide is a must; guided tours in English are also available on request. Highlights include 13th-century tombstones excavated in Paris; a wooden model of a destroyed Eastern European synagogue; a roomful of early paintings by Marc Chagall; and Christian Boltanski’s stark, two-part tribute to Shoah (Holocaust) victims in the form of plaques on an outer wall naming the (mainly Jewish) inhabitants of the Hôtel St-Aignan in 1939, and canvas hangings with the personal data of the 13 residents who were deported and died in concentration camps. TIP The rear-facing windows offer a view of the Jardin Anne Frank. To visit it, use the entrance on the Impasse Berthaud, off Rue Beaubourg, just north of Rue Rambuteau. | 71 rue du Temple, Marais | 01–53–01–86–60 | www.mahj.org | €8; €10 with temporary exhibitions | Weekdays 11–6, Sun. 10–6; closed Sat. | Station: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville.

EASTERN PARIS

The Bastille used to be the star of this area, and a stop here—at the epicenter of the French Revolution—was a must. The small streets forking off the Place de la Bastille still buzz at night, thanks to bars, music clubs, and the top-flight Opéra Bastille. But today the neighborhoods farther afield are the real draw, having evolved into some of Paris’s top destinations. The Canal St-Martin, once the down-and-out cousin on the northeastern border, is now trend-spotting central, brimming with funky bars, cafés, art galleries, and boutiques. The scene is similar to the south, on rues Oberkampf, St-Maur, and Jean-Pierre-Timbaud, where artists and small designers have set up shop, and where a substantial slice of the city’s bobo (bourgeois-bohemian) contingent is buying up the no-longer-so-affordable apartments.

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Fodor’s Choice | Canal St-Martin.

This once-forgotten canal has morphed into one of the city’s trendiest places to wander. A good time to come is Sunday afternoon, when the Quai de Valmy is closed to cars and some of the shops are open. Rent a bike at any of the many Vélib’ stations, stroll along the banks, or go native and cuddle quai-side in the sunshine with someone special.

In 1802 Napoléon ordered the 4.3-km (2.7-mile) canal dug as a source of clean drinking water after cholera and other epidemics swept the city. When it finally opened 23 years later, it stretched north from the Seine at Place de la Bastille to the Canal de l’Ourcq, near La Villette. Baron Haussmann later covered a 1.6-km (1-mile) stretch of it, along today’s Boulevard Richard Lenoir. It nearly became a highway in the 1970s, before the city’s urban planners regained their senses. These days you can take a boat tour from end to end through the canal’s nine locks: along the way, the bridges swing or lift open. The drawbridge with four giant pulleys at Rue de Crimée, near La Villette, was a technological marvel when it opened in 1885.

In recent years gentrification has swept the once-dodgy canal, with artists taking over former industrial spaces and creating studios and galleries. The bar and restaurant scene is hipster central, and small designers have arrived, fleeing expensive rents in Le Marais. To explore this evolving quartier, set out on foot: Start on the Quai de Valmy at Rue Faubourg du Temple (use the République métro stop). Here, at Square Frédéric Lemaître facing north, there is a good view of one of the locks (behind you the canal disappears underground). As you head north, detour onto side streets like Rue Beaurepaire, a fashionista destination with several “stock” (or surplus) shops for popular brands, some open on Sunday. The rues Lancry and Vinaigriers are lined with bars, restaurants, and small shops.

A swing bridge across the canal connects Lancry to the Rue de la Grange aux Belles, where you’ll find the entrance to the massive Hôpital Saint-Louis, built in 1607 to accommodate plague victims and still a working hospital today. In front of you is the entrance to the chapel, which held its first Mass in July 1610, two months after the assassination of the hospital’s patron, Henry IV. Stroll the grounds, flanked by the original brick-and-stone buildings with steeply sloping roofs. The peaceful courtyard garden is a neighborhood secret.

Back on Quai Valmy, browse more shops near the Rue des Récollets. Nearby is the Jardin Villemin, the 10e arrondissement’s largest park (4.5 acres) on the former site of another hospital. The nighttime scene, especially in summer, is hopping with twenty-somethings spilling out of cafés and bars and onto the canal banks. If you’ve made it this far, reward yourself with a fresh taco or burrito at the tiny and authentically Mexican El Nopal taqueria at 3 rue Eugène Varlin. Farther up, just past Place Stalingrad, is the Rotonde de la Villette, a lively square with restaurants and twin MK2 cinemas on either side of the canal, with a boat to ferry ticket holders across. Canauxrama (www.canauxrama.com) offers 2½-hour boat cruises through the locks (€16 adults; low-season weekday specials are often offered). Embarkation is at each end of canal: at Bassin de la Villette (13 quai de la Loire, La Villette) or Marina Arsenal (50 bd. de la Bastille, Bastille). | Canal St-Martin | Station: Jaurès (northern end) or Bastille (southern end).

Fodor’s Choice | Cimetière du Père-Lachaise.

Bring a red rose for “the Little Sparrow” Edith Piaf when you visit the cobblestone avenues and towering trees that make this 118-acre oasis of green perhaps the world’s most famous cemetery. Named for Père François de la Chaise, Louis XIV’s confessor, Père-Lachaise is more than just a who’s who of celebrities. The Paris Commune’s final battle took place here on May 28, 1871, when 147 rebels were lined up and shot against the Mur des Fédérés (Federalists’ Wall) in the southeast corner.

Aside from the sheer aesthetic beauty of the cemetery, the main attraction is what (or who, more accurately) is belowground.

Two of the biggest draws are Jim Morrison’s grave (with its own guard to keep Doors fans under control) and the life-size bronze figure of French journalist Victor Noir, whose alleged fertility-enhancing power accounts for the patches rubbed smooth by hopeful hands. Other significant grave sites include those of 12th-century French philosopher Pierre Abélard and his lover Héloïse; French writers Colette, Honoré de Balzac, and Marcel Proust; American writers Richard Wright, Gertrude Stein, and Alice B. Toklas; Irish writer Oscar Wilde; French actress Sarah Bernhardt; French composer Georges Bizet; Greek-American opera singer Maria Callas; Franco-Polish composer Frédéric Chopin; painters of various nationalities including Georges-Pierre Seurat, Camille Pissaro, Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, Jacques-Louis David, Eugène Delacroix, Théodore Géricault, Amedeo Clemente Modigliani, and Max Ernst; French jazz violinist Stephane Grappelli; French civic planner Baron Haussmann; French playwright and actor Molière; and French singer Edith Piaf.

TIP Pinpoint grave sites on the website before you come, but buy a map anyway outside the entrances—you’ll still get lost, but that’s part of the fun. One of the best days to visit is on All Saints’ Day (November 1), when Parisians bring flowers to adorn the graves of loved ones or favorite celebrities. | Entrances on Rue des Rondeaux, Bd. de Ménilmontant, and Rue de la Réunion, Père Lachaise | 01–55–25–82–10 | www.pere-lachaise.com | Daily 8–6, 5:30 in winter (opens 8:30 Sat. and 9 Sun.) | Station: Gambetta, Philippe-Auguste, Père-Lachaise.

Place de la Bastille.

Nothing remains of the infamous Bastille prison, destroyed more than 200 years ago, though tourists still ask bemused Parisians where to find it. Until the late 1980s, there was little more to see here than a busy traffic circle ringing the Colonne de Juillet (July Column), a memorial to the victims of later uprisings in 1830 and 1848. The opening of the Opéra Bastille in 1989 rejuvenated the area, however, drawing art galleries, bars, and restaurants to the narrow streets, notably along Rue de Lappe—once a haunt of Edith Piaf—and Rue de la Roquette.

Before it became a prison, the Bastille St-Antoine was a defensive fortress with eight immense towers and a wide moat. It was built by Charles V in the late 14th century and transformed into a prison during the reign of Louis XIII (1610–43). Famous occupants included Voltaire, the Marquis de Sade, and the Man in the Iron Mask. On July 14, 1789, it was stormed by an angry mob that dramatically freed all of the remaining prisoners (there were only seven, including one lunatic), thereby launching the French Revolution. The roots of the revolt ran deep. Resentment toward Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette had been building amid a severe financial crisis. There was a crippling bread shortage, and the free-spending monarch was blamed. When the king dismissed the popular finance minister, Jacques Necker, enraged Parisians took to the streets. They marched to Les Invalides, helping themselves to stocks of arms, then continued on to the Bastille. A few months later, what was left of the prison was razed—and 83 of its stones were carved into miniature Bastilles and sent to the provinces as a memento (you can see one of them in the Musée Carnavalet). The key to the prison was given to George Washington by Lafayette and has remained at Mount Vernon ever since. Today, nearly every major street demonstration in Paris—and there are many—passes through this square. | Bastille | Station: Bastille.

WORTH NOTING

La Maison Rouge.

One of the city’s premier spaces for contemporary art, La Maison Rouge art foundation was established by former gallery owner Antoine de Galbert to fill a hole in the Parisian art world. Always edgy, often provocative, the foundation stages several temporary exhibitions each year in a cleverly renovated industrial space anchored by a central courtyard building that’s painted bright red on the outside (hence the name). Past shows have included “Tous Cannibales,” themed around cannibalism, and “Memories of the Future,” a death-obsessed display featuring artists from Hieronymus Bosch to Damien Hirst. Check the website to see what’s on. TIP Stop by the Rose Bakery near the entrance: it’s the latest Parisian outpost of the popular English café. | 10 bd. de la Bastille, Bastille | 01–40–01–08–81 | www.lamaisonrouge.org | €8 | Wed.–Sun. 11–7, Thurs. 11–9; closed Mon. and Tues. | Station: Quai de la Rapée/Bastille.

THE LATIN QUARTER

The Quartier Latin is the heart of student Paris—and has been for more than 800 years. France’s oldest university, La Sorbonne, was founded here in 1257, and the neighborhood takes its name from the fact that Latin was the common language of the students, who came from all over Europe. Today the area is full of cheap and cheerful cafés, bars, and shops.

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Fodor’s Choice | Musée de Cluny (Musée National du Moyen-Age; National Museum of the Middle Ages).

Built on the ruins of Roman baths, the Hôtel de Cluny has been a museum since medievalist Alexandre Du Sommerard established his collection here in 1844. The ornate 15th-century mansion was created for the abbot of Cluny, leader of the mightiest monastery in France. Symbols of the abbot’s power surround the building, from the crenellated walls that proclaimed his independence from the king, to the carved Burgundian grapes twining up the entrance that symbolize his valuable vineyards. The scallop shells (coquilles St-Jacques) covering the facade are a symbol of religious pilgrimage, another important source of income for the abbot; the well-traveled pilgrimage route to Spain once ran around the corner along the Rue St-Jacques. The highlight of the museum’s collection is the world-famous Dame à la Licorne (Lady and the Unicorn) tapestry series, woven in the 16th century, probably in Belgium, and now presented in newly refurbished surroundings. The vermillion tapestries (Room 13) are an allegorical representation of the five senses. In each, a unicorn and a lion surround an elegant young woman against an elaborate millefleur (literally, 1,000 flowers) background. The enigmatic sixth tapestry is thought to be either a tribute to a sixth sense, perhaps intelligence, or a renouncement of the other senses. “To my only desire” is inscribed at the top. The collection also includes the original sculpted heads of the Kings of Israel and Judah from Notre-Dame, decapitated during the Revolution and discovered in 1977 in the basement of a French bank. The frigidarium (Room 9) is a stunning reminder of the city’s cold-water Roman baths; the soaring space, painstakingly renovated in 2009, houses temporary exhibits. Also notable is the pocket-size chapel (Room 20) with its elaborate Gothic ceiling. Outside, in the Place Paul Painlevé, is a charming medieval-style garden with flora depicted in the unicorn tapestries. TIP The free audioguide in English is highly recommended. | 6 pl. Paul-Painlevé, Latin Quarter | 01–53–73–78–00 | www.musee-moyenage.fr | €8; €8.50 during temporary exhibitions; free 1st Sun. of month | Wed.–Mon. 9:15–5:45; closed Tues. | Station: Cluny–La Sorbonne.

WORTH NOTING

Institut du Monde Arabe.

This eye-catching metal-and-glass tower by architect Jean Nouvel cleverly uses metal diaphragms in the shape of square Arabic-style screens to work like a camera lens, opening and closing to control the flow of sunlight. The vast cultural center’s layout is intended to reinterpret the traditional enclosed Arab courtyard. Inside, there are various spaces—among them a museum, inaugurated in 2012, that explores the culture and religion of the 22 Arab League member nations. With the addition of elements from the Louvre’s holdings and private donors, the museum’s impressive collection includes Islamic art, artifacts, ceramics, and textiles, which are displayed on four floors. There is also a performance space, a sound-and-image center, a library, and a bookstore. Temporary exhibitions usually have information and an audioguide in English. TIP Glass elevators whisk you to the ninth floor, where you can sip mint tea in the rooftop café, Le Zyriab, while feasting on one of the best views in Paris. | 1 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard, Latin Quarter | 01–40–51–38–38 | www.imarabe.org | €8 | Tues.–Thurs. 10–6, Fri. 10–9:30, weekends 10–7; closed Mon. | Station: Cardinal Lemoine.

Panthéon.

Rome has St. Peter’s, London has St. Paul’s, and Paris has the Panthéon, whose enormous dome dominates the Left Bank. Built as the church of Ste-Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris, it was later converted to an all-star mausoleum for some of France’s biggest names, including Voltaire, Zola, Dumas, Rousseau, and Hugo. Pierre and Marie Curie were reinterred here together in 1995. Begun in 1764, the building was almost complete when the French Revolution erupted. By then, architect Jacques-German Soufflot had died—supposedly from worrying that the 220-foot-high dome would collapse. He needn’t have fretted: the dome was so perfect that Foucault used it in his famous pendulum test to prove the Earth rotates on its axis. Time, however, has taken its toll on the Panthéon and the structure is now in the midst of an extensive, multiyear overhaul. The crypt and nave remain accessible to the public but the dome is expected to be closed until late 2015. | Pl. du Panthéon, Latin Quarter | 01–44–32–18–00 | www.pantheon.monuments-nationaux.fr | €7.50 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–6:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–6 | Station: Cardinal Lemoine; RER: Luxembourg.

ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS

If you had to choose the most classically Parisien neighborhood in Paris, this would be it. St-Germain-des-Prés has it all: genteel blocks lined with upscale art galleries, storied cafés, designer boutiques, and a fine selection of museums. Cast your eyes upward after dark and you may spy a frescoed ceiling in a tony apartment. These historic streets can get quite crowded, so mind your elbows and plunge in.

At the southern end of this district is the city’s poshest park, the Jardin du Luxembourg, which is also home to the Musée du Luxembourg. This small museum plays host to excellent temporary exhibitions. The Musée Delacroix, in lovely place Furstenburg, is home to a small collection of the Romantic master’s works. Not far away is the stately Église St-Sulpice, where you can see two impressive Delacroix frescoes. Nearby in the 7e arrondissement, the star attraction is the Musée d’Orsay, home to a world-class collection of Impressionist paintings in a converted Belle Époque rail station on the Seine.

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TOP ATTRACTIONS

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Carrefour de Buci.

Just behind the neighborhood’s namesake St-Germain church, this colorful crossroads (carrefour means “intersection”) was once a notorious Rive Gauche landmark. During the French Revolution, the army enrolled its first volunteers here. It was also here that thousands of royalists and priests lost their heads during the 10-month wave of public executions known as the Reign of Terror. There’s certainly nothing sinister about the carrefour today, though; brightly colored flowers are for sale alongside take-out ice cream and other sweet treats. Devotees of the superb, traditional bakery Carton (at No. 6 rue de Buci) line up for fresh breads and pastries (try their pain aux raisins, tuiles cookies, and tarte de citron). | Intersection of rues Mazarine, Dauphine, and de Buci, St-Germain-des-Prés | Station: Mabillon.

Cour du Commerce St-André.

Like an 18th-century engraving come to life, this charming street arcade is a remnant of ancien Paris with its uneven cobblestones, antique roofs, and Old World façades. Famed for its rabble-rousing inhabitants—journalist Jean-Paul Marat ran the Revolutionary newspaper L’Ami du Peuple at No. 8, and the agitator Georges Danton lived at No. 20—it is also home to Le Procope, Paris’s oldest café. The passageway contains a turret from the 12th-century wall of Philippe-Auguste, which is visible through the windows of Un Dimanche à Paris, a chocolate shop-pastry atelier at No. 4. | Linking Bd. St-Germain and Rue St-André-des-Arts, St-Germain-des-Prés | Station: Odéon.

Église St-Germain-des-Prés.

Paris’s oldest church was built to shelter a simple shard of wood, said to be a relic of Jesus’s cross brought back from Spain in AD 542. Vikings came down the Seine and sacked the sanctuary, and Revolutionaries used it to store gunpowder. Yet the elegant building has defied history’s abuses: its 11th-century Romanesque tower continues to be the central symbol of the neighborhood. The colorful 19th-century frescoes in the nave are by Hippolyte Flandrin, a pupil of the classical master Ingres; and the Saint Benoit chapel contains the tomb of philosopher René Descartes. Step inside for spiritual nourishment, or pause in the square to people-watch—there’s usually a street musician tucked against the church wall, out of the wind. TIP The church stages superb organ concerts and recitals. See the website for details. | Pl. St-Germain-des-Prés, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–55–42–81–10 | www.eglise-sgp.org | Mon. 2:30–6:45, Tues.–Fri. 10:30–noon and 2:30–6:45, Sat. 10:30–1; Mass weekdays 12:15 and 7, Sun. 9, 11, 5, and 7 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Jardin du Luxembourg.

Everything that is charming, unique, and befuddling about Parisian parks can be found in the Luxembourg Gardens: cookie-cutter trees, ironed-and-pressed walkways, sculpted flower beds, and immaculate emerald lawns meant for admiring, not necessarily for lounging. The tree- and bench-lined paths are a marvelous reprieve from the bustle of the two neighborhoods it borders: the Quartier Latin and St-Germain-des-Prés. Beautifully austere during the winter months, the garden grows intoxicating as spring brings blooming beds of daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths, and the circular pools teem with boats nudged along by children. The park’s northern boundary is dominated by the Palais du Luxembourg and the Sénat (Senate), which is one of two chambers that make up the Parliament.

The original inspiration for the gardens came from Marie de Medici, nostalgic for the Boboli Gardens of her native Florence. She is commemorated by the Fontaine de Medicis.

Les Marionettes du Théâtre du Luxembourg is a timeless attraction, where, on weekends at 11 and 3:15 and Wednesday at 3:15 (hours may vary), you can catch classic guignols (marionette shows) for €4.70. The wide-eyed kids might be the real attraction—their expressions of utter surprise, despair, and glee have fascinated the likes of Henri Cartier-Bresson and François Truffaut. The park also has a merry-go-round, swings, and pony rides; the bandstand hosts free concerts on summer afternoons.

Check out the rotating photography exhibits hanging on the perimeter fence near the entrance on the Boulevard St-Michel and Rue Vaugirard.

TIP If the grass is en repos, a nice way of saying “stay off,” feel free to move the green chairs around to create a picnic spot or people-watching perch. If you want to burn off that breakfast pain au chocolat, there’s a well-maintained trail around the perimeter that is frequented by gentrified joggers. If you’re looking for a familiar face, one of the original (miniature) casts of the Statue of Liberty was installed in the gardens in 1906. Gendarmes regularly walk the grounds to ensure park rules are enforced; follow guidelines posted on entry gates. | Bordered by Bd. St-Michel and Rues de Vaugirard, de Medicis, Guynemer, and Auguste-Comte, St-Germain-des-Prés | Les Marionettes du Théâtre du Luxembourg, www.marionnettesduluxembourg.fr | Free | Daily 7:30–dusk (hrs may vary depending on season) | Station: Odéon; RER: B Luxembourg.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Musée d’Orsay.

Opened in 1986, this gorgeously renovated Belle Époque train station displays a world-famous collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings on three floors. To visit the exhibits in a roughly chronologic manner, start on the first floor, take the escalators to the top, and end on the second. If you came to see the biggest names here, head straight for the top floor and work your way down. English audioguides and free color-coded museum maps (both available just past the ticket booths) will help you plot your route. Renovations will be ongoing until 2015.

Ground floor: Galleries off the main alley feature early works by Manet and Cézanne in addition to pieces by masters such as Delacroix and Ingres. Later works by the likes of Toulouse-Lautrec are found in Salle 10. The Pavillon Amont has Courbet’s masterpieces L’Enterrement à Ornans and Un Atelier du Peintre. Hanging in Salle 14 is Édouard Manet’s Olympia, a painting that pokes fun at the fashion for all things Greek and Roman (his nubile subject is a 19th-century courtesan, not a classical goddess).

Top floor: Impressionism gets going here, with iconic works by Degas, Pissarro, Sisley, and Renoir. Don’t miss Monet’s series on the cathedral at Rouen and, of course, samples of his water lilies. Other selections by these artists are housed in galleries on the ground floor.

Second floor: An exquisite collection of sculpture as well as Art Nouveau furniture and decorative objects is housed here. There are rare surviving works by Hector Guimard (designer of the swooping green Paris métro entrances), plus Lalique and Tiffany glassware. Post-Impressionist galleries include work by Van Gogh and Gauguin, while Neo-Impressionist galleries highlight Seurat and Signac.

TIP Lines here are among the worst in Paris. Book ahead online or buy a Museum Pass; then go directly to entrance C. Otherwise, go early.

Thursday evening the museum is open until 9:45 pm and less crowded. The elegant Musée d’Orsay Restaurant once served patrons of the 1900 World’s Fair; the Café du Lion offers quick fare on the ground floor by the entrance; there’s also a café and a self-service cafeteria on the top floor just after the Cézanne galleries. Don’t miss the views of Sacré-Coeur from the balcony—this is the Paris that inspired the Impressionists. The d’Orsay is closed Monday, unlike the Pompidou and the Louvre, which are closed Tuesday. | 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–40–49–48–14 | www.musee-orsay.fr | €11; €8.50 after 4:30, except Thurs. after 6 | Tues.–Sun. 9:30–6; Thurs. 9:30 am–9:45 pm; closed Mon. | Station: Solférino; RER: Musée d’Orsay.

WORTH NOTING

Musée Delacroix.

The final home of artist Eugène Delacroix (1798–1863) contains only a small collection of his sketches and drawings. But you can check out the lovely studio he had built in the large garden at the back to work on frescoes he created for St-Sulpice Church, where they remain on display today. The museum also plays host to temporary exhibitions, such as Delacroix’s experiments with photography. France’s foremost Romantic painter had the good luck to live on Place Furstenberg, one of the smallest, most romantic squares in Paris: seeing it is reason enough to come. | 6 rue Furstenberg, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–44–41–86–50 | www.musee-delacroix.fr | €6; €7.50 with temporary exhibitions; €12 with same-day admission to the Louvre | Wed.–Mon. 9:30—5; closed Tues. | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.

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Around the Eiffel Tower | Champs-Élysées | Around the Louvre | The Grands Boulevards | Montparnasse | Marais | Latin Quarter | St-Germain-des-Prés

A new wave of culinary confidence has been running through one of the world’s great food cities and spilling over both banks of the Seine. Whether cooking up grand-mère’s roast chicken and riz au lait or placing a whimsical hat of cotton candy atop wild-strawberry-and-rose ice cream, Paris chefs have been breaking free from the tyranny of tradition and following their passions.

Emblematic of this movement is the proliferation of trained bistro chefs who have opened their own restaurants. Among the newcomers to the bistronomique scene are David Rathgeber, who left Benoît to take over the chic Montparnasse bistro L’Assiette; Mickaël Gaignon, a veteran of Pierre Gagnaire and Le Pré Catelan who now runs the Marais bistro Le Gaigne; and Stéphane Marcouzzi, who was maître d’hôtel at Guy Savoy’s Le Cap Vernet before opening L’Epigramme in St-Germain with chef Aymeric Kräml, and now L’Epicuriste, in the 15th arrondissement.

But self-expression is not the only driving force behind the current changes. A traditional high-end restaurant can be prohibitively expensive to operate. As a result, more casual bistros and cafés, which often have lower operational costs and higher profit margins, have become attractive businesses for even top chefs.

AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER

Abri.

MODERN FRENCH | This tiny storefront restaurant’s well-deserved popularity has much to do with chef Katsuaki Okiyama’s fresh and imaginative food, the friendly servers, and great prices. A veteran of Taillevent and Robuchon, Okiyama works from a small open kitchen behind a zinc bar, putting forth skillfully prepared dishes, like lemon-marinated mackerel topped with micro-thin slices of beet with honey vinaigrette, succulent duck breast with vegetables au jus, or a scrumptious pumpkin soup with fragrant coffee cream. With food this good, and prices to match (€25 at lunch, €40 for a four-course dinner) be sure to reserve early. | Average main: €22 | 92 rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01–83–97–00–00 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. | Station: Poissonnière, Cadet.

Fodor’s Choice | Hiramatsu.

FRENCH FUSION | In this Art Deco dining room near Trocadéro, Yoshiaki Ito continues his variations on the subtly Japanese-inspired French cuisine of restaurant namesake Hiroyuki Hiramatsu, who still sometimes works the kitchen. Luxury ingredients feature prominently in dishes such as thin slices of lamb with onion jam and thyme-and-truffle-spiked jus, or an unusual pot-au-feu of oysters with foie gras and black truffle. For dessert, a mille-feuille of caramelized apples comes with rosemary sorbet. Helpful sommeliers will guide you through the staggering wine list, with more than 1,000 different bottles to choose from. There’s no way to get away cheaply, so save this for a special occasion, when you might be tempted to order a carte blanche menu for €115 (lunch menus at €48). | Average main: €50 | 52 rue de Longchamp, 16e, Trocadéro | 01–56–81–08–80 | www.hiramatsu.co.jp/fr | Reservations essential | Closed weekends, Aug., and 1 wk at Christmas | Station: Trocadéro.

Il Vino.

FRENCH FUSION | It might seem audacious to present hungry diners with nothing more than a wine list, but the gamble is paying off for Enrico Bernardo at his wine-centric restaurant with a branch in Courchevel, in the French Alps. This charismatic Italian left the George V to oversee a dining room where food plays second fiddle (in status, not quality). The hip decor—plum-color banquettes, body-hugging white chairs, a few high tables—attracts a mostly young clientele that’s happy to play the game by ordering one of the blind, multicourse tasting menus. The €95 menu, with four dishes and four wines, is a good compromise that might bring you a white Mâcon with saffron risotto, crisp Malvasia with crabmeat and black radish, a full-bodied red from Puglia with Provençal-style lamb, sherrylike vin jaune d’Arbois with aged Comté cheese, and sweet Jurançon with berry crumble. You can also order individual wine-food combinations à la carte or pick a bottle straight from the cellar and ask for a meal to match. | Average main: €40 | 13 bd. de la Tour-Maubourg, 7e, Invalides | 01–44–11–72–00 | www.ilvinobyenricobernardo.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Sat. | Station: Invalides.

Fodor’s Choice | L’Abeille.

MODERN FRENCH | The name refers to Napoléon’s imperial emblem, the bee (the building once housed his grand-nephew), but also pays homage to Philippe Labbé, one of France’s distinguished chefs. Everything, from the dove-gray decor to the sparkling silver, speaks of quiet elegance—all the better to highlight a masterful cuisine: “harlequin” of yellow, red, and white beets with a ginger-tinged yogurt and aloe vera emulsion; Breton langoustine in a cinnamon-perfumed gelée, with grapefruit pulp and a ginger- and Tahitian vanilla–infused mayonnaise; lightly caramelized scallops in an ethereal cloud of white-chocolate foam; tender fillet of wild duck with a tart-sweet apricot reduction. Desserts are subtle and surprising, like the apple Reinette, paired with fennel and candied lemon zest. For cuisine of this quality, the €210, seven-course tasting menu at dinner is not outlandish. Service is friendly, discrete, devoid of snobbery, and includes all the flourishes that make a dining experience unforgettable, from the first flute of champagne to the parting gift of—what else?—a jar of honey. | Average main: €100 | Paris Shangri-La Hotel,10 av. d’Iéna, 16e, Trocadéro | 01–53–67–19–90 | www.shangri-la.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch | Station: Iéna.

Fodor’s Choice | L’Astrance.

MODERN FRENCH | Pascal Barbot rose to fame thanks to his restaurant’s amazing-value food and casual atmosphere, but after the passage of several years, Astrance has become resolutely haute, with prices to match. There’s no à la carte; you can choose from a lunch menu for €70, a seasonal menu for €150, or the full tasting menu for €230 (this is what most people come for)—the latter two are available at lunch and dinner. His dishes often draw on Asian ingredients, as in grilled lamb with miso-lacquered eggplant and a palate-cleansing white sorbet spiked with chili pepper and lemongrass. Each menu also comes at a (considerably) higher price with wines to match each course. Barbot’s cooking has such an ethereal quality that it’s worth the considerable effort of booking a table—you should start trying at least two months in advance. | Average main: €120 | 4 rue Beethoven, 16e, Trocadéro | 01–40–50–84–40 | Reservations essential | Closed Sat.–Mon., 1 wk in early Nov., and all of Aug. | Station: Passy.

Fodor’s Choice | La Table d’Aki.

MODERN FRENCH | Did the stars align during our meal, or could it be that La Table d’Aki actually is the most perfect restaurant in Paris? Set in a quiet, aristocratic quartier near the Musée Rodin, its pale celadon walls, crisp white linen, and restrained lighting add up to a simple elegance, all the better to highlight chef Akihiro Horikoshi’s thrilling cuisine centered on the sea. Amazingly Horikoshi works all alone in an open kitchen while 16 lucky diners await the next course, dishes like plump langoustine shimmering in a velvety shallot-fennel sauce, or delicate medallions of sole in a mellow red wine and leek reduction—all of such lush simplicity. In the hands of another chef, the attempt to create these feasts alone would be an act of hubris, but chef Horikoshi is only guilty of making more unrepentant fans: some have even been known to order all four entrées or toast the chef repeatedly with their postdinner cognac, and all practically genuflecting their way out the door. | Average main: €32 | 49 rue Vaneau, 7e, Invalides | 01–45–44–43–48 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., 2 wks in Feb., and in Aug. | Station: Saint Francis-Xavier.

Le Café Constant.

BISTRO | Parisians are a nostalgic bunch, which explains the popularity of this down-to-earth venue from esteemed chef Christian Constant. This is a relatively humble bistro with cream-color walls, red banquettes, and wooden tables, and you’ll often see Constant himself perched at the bar at the end of lunch service. The menu reads like a French cookbook from the 1970s—who cooks veal cordon bleu these days?—but with Constant overseeing the kitchen, the dishes taste even better than back in the day. There’s delicious and creamy lentil soup with morsels of foie gras, and the artichoke salad comes with fresh—not bottled or frozen—hearts. A towering vacherin (meringue layered with ice cream) might bring this delightfully retro meal to a close. On weekdays there is a bargain lunch menu for €16 (two courses) or €23 (three courses). | Average main: €16 | 139 rue St-Dominique, 7e, Around the Eiffel Tower | 01–47–53–73–34 | www.cafeconstant.com | Reservations not accepted | Station: Métro École Militaire, Métro or RER: Pont de l’Alma.

Le Jules Verne.

MODERN FRENCH | Alain Ducasse doesn’t set his sights low, so it was no real surprise when he took over this prestigious dining room on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower and had designer Patrick Jouin give the room a neo-futuristic look in shades of brown. Sauces and pastries are prepared in a kitchen below the Champ de Mars before being whisked up the elevator to the kitchen, which is overseen by young chef Pascal Féraud. Most accessible is the €90 lunch menu (weekdays only), which brings you à la carte dishes in slightly smaller portions. Spend more (about €175 to €210 per person without drinks) and you’ll be entitled to more lavish dishes such as lobster with celery root and black truffle, and fricassee of Bresse chicken with crayfish. For dessert the kitchen reinterprets French classics, as in an unsinkable pink grapefruit soufflé with grapefruit sorbet. Book months ahead or try your luck at the last minute. | Average main: €77 | Tour Eiffel, south pillar, Av. Gustave Eiffel, 7e, Around the Eiffel Tower | 01–45–55–61–44 | www.lejulesverne-paris.com | Reservations essential | Jacket and tie | Station: Bir-Hakeim.

Le Violon d’Ingres.

MODERN FRENCH | Following in the footsteps of Joël Robuchon and Alain Senderens, Christian Constant gave up the Michelin star chase in favor of relatively accessible prices and a packed dining room (book at least a week ahead). And with Grégory Gbiorczyk in charge of the kitchen here, Constant can dash among his four restaurants on this street, making sure the hordes are happy. Why wouldn’t they be? The food is sophisticated and the atmosphere is lively; you can even find signature dishes like the almond-crusted sea bass with rémoulade sauce (a buttery caper sauce), alongside game and scallops (in season), and comforting desserts like pots de crème and chocolate tart. The food is still heavy on the butter, but with wines starting at around €25 (and a €47 lunch menu on weekdays) this is a wonderful place for a classic yet informal French meal. | Average main: €32 | 135 rue St-Dominique, 7e, Around the Eiffel Tower | 01–45–55–15–05 | www.leviolondingres.com | Reservations essential | 7 days a wk for lunch and dinner | Station: École Militaire.

Fodor’s Choice | Restaurant David Toutain.

FRENCH FUSION | Though it lasted barely two years, the sheer virtuosity and daring of David Toutain’s cooking at Agapé Substance electrified Paris foodies. The youthful Toutain is often called a prodigy, a status applied sparingly in Paris but in this case well deserved. Although his approach may be exasperatingly conceptual for some, others find his earthy, surprising, and inspired concoctions utterly thrilling. Each dish is a lesson in contrasts of temperature, texture, and flavor, as well as a feat of composition: briny oysters, Brussels sprouts, and foie gras in a warm potato consomé; creamy raw oysters with tart kiwi and yuzu; crispy pork chips alongside velvety smoked potato purée. Toutain has a particular soft spot for root vegetables and truffles (there are two all-truffle menus going for €158 and €210), which he sprinkles liberally throughout dishes like salsify broth with lardo and black truffle. The €42 lunch menu is a great way to sample a unique and challenging cuisine that changes daily. | Average main: €40 | 29 rue Surcouf, 7e, Around the Eiffel Tower | 01–45–50–11–10 | www.davidtoutain.com | Reservations essential | Closed weekends | Station: Invalides, La Tour-Maubourg.

Thoumieux.

BRASSERIE | Former Crillon chef Jean-François Piège and Thierry Costes of the fashionable brasserie clan that created Café Marly and Le Georges are behind the revival of this old-world bistro. The space has thankfully preserved much of its vintage character with globe lights and etched mirrors. Despite its location in the sedate 7e arrondissement, this has quickly become the place to be seen, with food that’s a good notch above brasserie fare. A juicy Angus beef hamburger comes with a superfluous shower of Parmesan and ultra skinny fries, while the more sophisticated slow-cooked salmon is accompanied by vegetables from star market gardener Joël Thiébault. For dessert, try the piping-hot churros with chocolate sauce. The new restaurant gastronomique upstairs is ever so chic and a good bit pricier, yet proffers an experience commensurate with the top bistros in town (a €139 set menu at lunch and dinner and a €99 three-course menu at lunch that includes two glasses of wine, closed in August). Reservations are taken exactly six days ahead. | Average main: €40 | 79 rue St-Dominique, 7e, Invalides | 01–47–05–49–75 | www.thoumieux.fr | Reservations essential | Station: La Tour-Maubourg.

CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

Epicure.

MODERN FRENCH | After a rapid ascent at his own new-wave bistro, which led to his renown as one of the more inventive young chefs in Paris, Eric Frechon became head chef at the restaurant for three-star Bristol hotel, the home-away-from-home for billionaires and power brokers. Frechon creates masterworks—say, farmer’s pork cooked “from head to foot” with truffle-enhanced crushed potatoes—that rarely stray far from the comfort-food tastes of bistro cuisine. The €130 lunch menu makes his cooking accessible not just to the palate but to many pocketbooks. No wonder his tables are so coveted. Though the two dining rooms are impeccable—an oval oak-panel one for fall and winter and a marble-floor pavilion overlooking the courtyard garden for spring and summer—they provide few clues to help the world-weary traveler determine which city this might be. | Average main: €110 | Hôtel Bristol,112 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–53–43–43–00 | www.lebristolparis.com | Reservations essential | Jacket and tie | Station: Miromesnil.

Fodor’s Choice | Guy Savoy.

MODERN FRENCH | With dark African wood, rich leather, cream-color marble, and the chef’s own art collection, Guy Savoy’s luxury restaurant doesn’t dwell on the past. Come here for a perfectly measured haute-cuisine experience, since Savoy’s several bistros have not lured him away from the kitchen. The artichoke soup with black truffles, sea bass with spices, and veal kidneys in mustard-spiked jus reveal the magnitude of his talent, and his mille-feuille is an instant classic. If the waiters see you’re relishing a dish, they won’t hesitate to offer second helpings. Generous half portions allow you to graze your way through the menu—unless you choose a blowout feast for set menus ranging from €360 to €490 for the 18-course menu—and reasonably priced wines are available (though beware the cost of wines by the glass). The €170 “discovery” menu at noon or after 10:30 pm is a good way to sample some of this fine chef’s inspired cooking. Best of all, the atmosphere is joyful, because Savoy knows that having fun is just as important as eating well. | Average main: €120 | 18 rue Troyon, 17e, Champs-Élysées | 01–43–80–40–61 | www.guysavoy.com | Reservations essential | Jacket required | Closed Sun., Mon., Aug., and 1 wk at Christmas. No lunch Sat. | Station: Charles-de-Gaulle–Étoile.

L’Arôme.

MODERN FRENCH | Eric Martins ran a popular bistro in the far reaches of the 15e arrondissement before opening this contemporary restaurant off the Champs-Élysées, and his background in haute cuisine—he worked at Ledoyen and Hélène Darroze, among others—makes this ambitious restaurant an easy transition. The chef, Thomas Boullaut, turns out seasonal dishes with a touch of finesse from the open kitchen: dishes like foie gras confit with rosemary-poached quince and wild rose jam, or scallops à la plancha with vanilla and spaghetti squash might be featured. There is no à la carte, and if the dinner menus seem steep at €89 and €79 (€149 with wine pairing), the lunch menu is a mere €69. Watch out for the pricey wines by the glass. | Average main: €45 | 3 rue St-Philippe du Roule, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–42–25–55–98 | www.larome.fr | Reservations essential | Closed weekends and Aug. | Station: St-Philippe du Roule.

La Fermette Marbeuf.

BRASSERIE | Graced with one of the most mesmerizing Belle Époque rooms in town—accidentally rediscovered during renovations in the 1970s—this is a favorite haunt of French celebrities, who adore the sunflowers, peacocks, and dragonflies of the Art Nouveau mosaic. The menu rolls out updated classics: try the snails in puff pastry, beef fillet with pepper sauce, and the Grand Marnier soufflé—but ignore the limited-choice €29 prix fixe unless you’re on a budget: the options are a notch below what you get à la carte. Popular with tourists and businesspeople at lunch, La Fermette becomes truly animated around 9 pm. | Average main: €28 | 5 rue Marbeuf, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–53–23–08–00 | www.fermettemarbeuf.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.

Mini Palais.

MODERN FRENCH | Inside the Grand Palais, Mini Palais has gotten it smashingly right. With silvery ceilings, dark wood, and faux classical marble, it’s among Paris’s most stylish dining rooms, but the menu—designed by superchef Eric Frechon of Le Bristol and executed by protegé Stephane d’Aboville—is the real draw. The burger de magret et foie gras, a flavorful mélange of tender duckling breast and duck foie gras drizzled with truffled jus on a buttery brioche bun underscores what’s best about this place: a thoroughly modern cuisine with an old-fashioned extravagance. For a summer meal or a cocktail, the majestically pillared terrace overlooking Pont d’Alexandre III must be the most beautiful in Paris. What’s more, it’s open nonstop from 10 am till 2 am, an oasis in a neighborhood short on conveniences. | Average main: €25 | 3 av. Winston Churchill, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–42–56–42–42 | www.minipalais.com | Reservations essential | Station: Champs-Élysées-Clemenceau.

Fodor’s Choice | Pierre Gagnaire.

MODERN FRENCH | If you want to venture to the frontier of contemporary luxe cooking—and if money is no object—dinner here is a must. Chef Pierre Gagnaire’s work is at once intellectual and poetic, often blending three or four unexpected tastes and textures in a single dish. Just taking in the menu requires concentration (ask the waiters for help), so complex are the multiline descriptions about the dishes’ six or seven ingredients. The Grand Dessert, a seven-dessert marathon, will leave you breathless, though it’s not as overwhelming as it sounds. The businesslike gray-and-wood dining room feels refreshingly informal, especially at lunch, but it also lacks the grandeur expected at this level. The uninspiring prix-fixe lunch (€115) and occasional ill-judged dishes (Gagnaire is a big risk taker, but also one of France’s top chefs) linger as drawbacks, and prices keep shooting skyward, so Pierre Gagnaire is an experience best saved for the financial elite. | Average main: €110 | 6 rue de Balzac, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–58–36–12–50 | www.pierre-gagnaire.com | Reservations essential | Closed weekends, Aug., and at Christmas | Station: Charles-de-Gaulle–Étoile.

Fodor’s Choice | Rech.

SEAFOOD | Having restored the historic Paris bistros Aux Lyonnais and Benoît to their former glory, star chef Alain Ducasse turned his piercing attention to this seafood brasserie founded in 1925. His wisdom lies in knowing what not to change: the original Art Deco chairs in the main floor dining room; seafood shucker Malec, who has been a fixture on this chic stretch of sidewalk since 1982; and the XL éclair (it’s supersize) that’s drawn in locals for decades. Original owner Auguste Rech believed in serving a limited selection of high-quality products—a principle that suits Ducasse perfectly—and legendary chef Jacques Maximin is now in the kitchen, turning out Med-inspired dishes such as tomato cream with crayfish and fresh almonds or Niçoise-style sea bass with thyme fritters. Save room for the whole farmer’s Camembert, another Rech tradition. A great-value €36 menu is available at lunch; the dinner menu is €54. | Average main: €32 | 62 av. des Ternes, 17e, Champs-Élysées | 01–45–72–29–47 | www.restaurant-rech.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., late July–late Aug., and 1 wk at Christmas | Station: Ternes.

Taillevent.

MODERN FRENCH | Perhaps the most traditional—for many diners this is only high praise—of all Paris luxury restaurants, this grande dame basks in renewed freshness under brilliant chef Alain Solivérès, who draws inspiration from the Basque country, Bordeaux, and Languedoc for his daily menu. Traditional dishes such as scallops meunière (with butter and lemon) are matched with contemporary choices like a splendid spelt risotto with truffles and frogs’ legs or panfried duck liver with caramelized fruits and vegetables. One of the 19th-century paneled salons has been turned into a winter garden, and contemporary paintings adorn the walls. The service is flawless, and the exemplary wine list is well priced. All in all, a meal here comes as close to the classic haute-cuisine experience as you can find in Paris. There’s an €102 lunch menu and special wine “degustation” evenings, pairing food with exceptional wines from their legendary cave for €180. | Average main: €110 | 15 rue Lamennais, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–44–95–15–01 | www.taillevent.com | Reservations essential | Jacket and tie | Closed weekends and Aug. | Station: Charles-de-Gaulle–Étoile.

AROUND THE LOUVRE

Fodor’s Choice | L’Ardoise.

BISTRO | A minuscule storefront, decorated with enlargements of old sepia postcards of Paris, L’Ardoise is a model of the kind of contemporary bistros making waves in Paris. Chef Pierre Jay’s first-rate three-course dinner menu for €36 tempts with such original dishes as mushroom and foie gras ravioli with smoked duck; farmer’s pork with porcini mushrooms; and red mullet with creole sauce (you can also order à la carte, but it’s less of a bargain). Just as enticing are the desserts, such as a superb feuillantine au citron—caramelized pastry leaves filled with lemon cream and lemon slices—and a boozy baba au rhum. With friendly waiters and a small but well-chosen wine list, L’Ardoise would be perfect if it weren’t so popular (meaning noisy and crowded). | Average main: €27 | 28 rue du Mont Thabor, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–96–28–18 | www.lardoise-paris.com | Reservations essential | No lunch Sun. | Station: Concorde.

Fodor’s Choice | La Régalade St. Honoré.

MODERN FRENCH | When Bruno Doucet bought the original La Régalade from bistro-wizard Yves Camdeborde, some feared the end of an era. How wrong they were. While Doucet kept some of what made the old dining room so popular (country terrine, wine values, convivial atmosphere), he had a few tricks under his toque, creating a brilliantly successful haute-cuisine-meets-comfort-food destination with dishes like earthy morel mushrooms in a frothy cream for a starter, followed by the chef’s signature succulent caramelized pork belly over tender Puy lentils, and a perfectly cooked fillet of cod, crispy on the outside and buttery within, served in a rich shrimp bouillon. For dessert, don’t skip the updated take on grand-mère’s creamy rice pudding or the house Grand Marnier soufflé. With an excellent price-to-value ratio (€35 for the prix-fixe menu at lunch and dinner), this chic bistro and its elder sister in the 14th have evolved into staples for Paris gastronomes. | Average main: €24 | 123 rue Saint-Honoré, 1er, Faubourg St-Honoré | 01–42–21–92–40 | Reservations essential | Closed weekends, Aug. | Station: Louvre-Rivoli.

Le Grand Véfour.

MODERN FRENCH | Victor Hugo could stride in and still recognize this restaurant, which was in his day, as now, a contender for the title of most beautiful restaurant in Paris. Originally built in 1784, it has welcomed everyone from Napoléon to Colette to Jean Cocteau under its mirrored ceiling, and amid the early-19th-century glass paintings of goddesses and muses that create an air of restrained seduction. The rich and fashionable gather here to enjoy chef Guy Martin’s unique blend of sophistication and rusticity, as seen in dishes such as frogs’ legs with sorrel sauce, and oxtail parmentier (a kind of shepherd’s pie) with truffles. There’s an outstanding cheese trolley, and for dessert try the house specialty, palet aux noisettes (meringue cake with chocolate mousse, hazelnuts, and salted caramel ice cream). Prices are as extravagant as the decor, but there is a €98 lunch menu. | Average main: €120 | 17 rue de Beaujolais, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–96–56–27 | www.grand-vefour.com | Reservations essential | Closed weekends, Aug., and Christmas holidays | Station: Palais-Royal.

Fodor’s Choice | Spring.

MODERN FRENCH | The private party atmosphere in this intimate, elegantly modern space may be exuberance at having finally snagged a table, but most likely it’s chef Daniel Rose’s inspired—often resplendent—cuisine. Though firmly rooted in technique, Rose sets himself the task of improvising two different menus each day, one for lunch and one for dinner, from whatever strikes his fancy that morning. His insistence on fresh, top-quality ingredients sourced from every corner of France is evident in dishes that are both refined and deeply satisfying: you might have an updated parmentier with a velvety layer of deboned pig’s foot topped with lemon-infused whipped potatoes or buttery venison with tart-sweet candied kumqua. For dessert, a sublime combo of whiskey-and-vanilla-infused pineapple, crunchy toasted coconut biscuits, and lime-zest-sprinkled vanilla ice cream. A four-course dinner menu will run you €84. The 17th-century vaulted dining room is an intimate spot yet can accommodate larger groups. | Average main: €45 | 6 rue Bailleul, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–45–96–05–72 | www.springparis.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch | Station: Louvre-Rivoli.

Fodor’s Choice | Yam’Tcha.

FRENCH FUSION | Adeline Grattard’s little bistro has become so popular that tables are snapped up several weeks ahead, which is no surprise when you learn that she worked in the kitchens of L’Astrance before spending time in Hong Kong, where she picked up many of her techniques and ingredients. Inspired by Chinese cooking, many of her dishes rely on brilliant flavor combinations and very precise cooking. A signature dish is the roasted Challans duck (a cross between wild and domestic) with Sichuan-style eggplant: two elements that create magic together. Adeline’s husband Chi Wa acts as a tea sommelier, introducing diners to earthy or grassy flavors that complement the food (Yam’Tcha means “to eat small steamed dishes while sipping tea”), though alcohol is also available. Menus are prix fixe only (€100 at lunch and dinner), but the €60 “discovery” lunch menu is a nice introduction. | Average main: €50 | 4 rue Sauval, 1er, Les Halles | 01–40–26–08–07 | www.yamtcha.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon., Tues. dinner only; closed Aug. and Christmas | Station: Louvre–Rivoli or Les Halles.

THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS

Fodor’s Choice | Frenchie.

BISTRO | The prodigiously talented Grégory Marchand worked with Jamie Oliver in London before opening this brick-and-stone-walled bistro on a pedestrian street near Rue Montorgueil. Word of mouth and bloggers quickly made this one of the most packed bistros in town, with tables booked two months in advance, despite two seatings each evening. Marchand owes a large part of his success to the great-value €48 three-course menu at dinner (prix fixe only)—boldly flavored dishes such as calamari gazpacho with squash blossoms, and melt-in-the-mouth braised lamb with roasted eggplant and spinach are excellent options. Service can be, shall we say, a tad brusque, but for some that’s a small price to pay for food this good. If you can’t get a reservation, nearby Frenchie Bar à Vins will fix you right up. | Average main: €29 | 5 rue du Nil, 2e, Les Halles | 01–40–39–96–19 | www.frenchie-restaurant.com | Reservations essential | Closed weekends, 2 wks in Aug., and 10 days at Christmas. No lunch | Station: Sentier.

Fodor’s Choice | Terroir Parisien–Palais Brongniart.

BISTRO | Yannick Alleno’s departure from Le Meurice, where he’d earned three Michelin stars, stunned the culinary world. He had chaffed under the star system’s onerous demands, and that turns out to be good news for diners. Alleno’s newest endeavor, which opened in late 2013, is set in a warm, modern space under the Paris Bourse, the city’s stock exchange. His dishes achieve an ephemeral balance, allowing top-notch ingredients to shine through while combining flavors and textures in unexpected and delightful ways. Delicate roasted leeks are sprinkled with eggs, shallots, chives, and wispy sprigs of chervil. A perfectly prepared steak with crispy matchstick fries and tender boudin blanc sausage with truffled celery root purée are comfort food at its very best. Desserts like a velvety chocolate tart with a layer of salted caramel or a roasted apple filled with raspberry jam are not to be missed. There’s also a “rillette bar,” where you can take out traditional French charcuterie: rillettes de lapin (rabbit terrine) and paté de campagne (country terrine). A big plus here is the welcoming, helpful service. | Average main: €22 | 28 pl. de la Bourse, 2e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–83–92–20–30 | www.yannick-alleno.com/restaurant/paris-terroir-parisien-palais-brongniart | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. | Station: Bourse.

MONTPARNASSE

Le Dôme.

BRASSERIE | Now a fancy fish brasserie serving seafood delivered fresh from Normandy every day, this restaurant began as a dingy meeting place for exiled artists and intellectuals like Lenin and Picasso. Try the sole meunière or the bouillabaisse, the ingredients of which are on display in their raw form in the restaurant’s sparkling fish shop next door. You can still drop by the covered terrace for a cup of coffee or a drink. | Average main: €36 | 108 bd. Montparnasse, 14e, Montparnasse | 01–43–35–25–81 | Closed Sun. and Mon. in July and Aug. | Station: Vavin.

MARAIS

Au Bourguignon du Marais.

BISTRO | The handsome, contemporary look of this Marais bistro and wine bar is the perfect backdrop for traditional fare and excellent Burgundies served by the glass and bottle. Unusual for Paris, food is served nonstop from noon to 11 pm, and you can drop by just for a glass of wine in the afternoon. Always on the menu are Burgundian classics such as jambon persillé (ham in parsleyed aspic jelly), escargots, and boeuf bourguignon (beef stewed in red wine). More up-to-date picks include a cèpe-mushroom velouté with poached oysters, though the fancier dishes are generally less successful. The terrace is busy in warmer months. | Average main: €22 | 52 rue François-Miron, 3e, Marais | 01–48–87–15–40 | Closed Sun. and Mon., 3 wks in Aug., and 2 wks in Feb. | Station: St-Paul.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Breizh Café.

FRENCH | Eating a crêpe in Paris might seem a bit clichéd, until you venture into this modern offshoot of a Breton crêperie. The pale-wood, almost Japanese-style decor is refreshing, but what really makes the difference are the ingredients—farmers’ eggs, unpasteurized Gruyère, shiitake mushrooms, Valrhona chocolate, homemade caramel, and extraordinary butter from Breton dairy farmer Jean-Yves Bordier. You’ll find all the classics among the galettes (buckwheat crêpes), but it’s worth choosing something more adventurous like the cancalaise (traditionally smoked herring, potato, crème fraîche, and herring roe). You might also slurp a few Cancale oysters, a rarity in Paris, and try one of the 20 artisanal ciders on offer. The nonstop serving hours from noon to 11 pm can be a lifesaver if you’re shopping in the Marais. Weekends are hectic, so be sure to reserve. | Average main: €12 | 109 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e, Marais | 01–42–72–13–77 | www.breizhcafe.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon., Tues., and Aug. | Station: St-Sébastien-Froissart.

Brasserie de l’Isle Saint-Louis.

BRASSERIE | With so much going for it, including a dream location on the tip of the Ile Saint-Louis overlooking the Seine and Notre Dame, you’d think this charming brasserie, like so many before it, would have succumbed to its own success. Yet it remains exactly what a decent neighborhood brasserie should be, with an authentic decor, efficiently friendly service, and good brassiere fare—classic leeks vinaigrette, country terrine, and a savory onion tarte à la maison for starters, followed by tender sole meuniere, classic choucroute, or buttered entrecôte. The outdoor terrace simply can’t be beat. | Average main: €19 | 55 quai de Bourbon, 4e, Marais | 01–43–54–02–59 | www.labrasserie-isl.fr | Reservations not accepted | Open noon–11 | Closed Wed. | Station: Pont Marie, Maubert-Mutualité, Sully-Morland.

Cantine Merci.

MODERN FRENCH | Deep inside the city’s latest concept store, whose proceeds go to charities for women in India and Madagascar, lurks the perfect spot for a quick and healthy lunch between bouts of shopping. The brief menu of soups, salads, risottos, and a daily hot dish is more than slightly reminiscent of another city lunch spot, Rose Bakery—salads such as fava beans with radish and lemon wedges or melon, cherry tomato, and arugula are bright, lively, and crunchy, and you can order a freshly squeezed juice or iced tea with fresh mint to wash it all down. Delicious, homey desserts might include cherry clafoutis or raspberry and pistachio crumble. | Average main: €16 | 111 bd. Beaumarchais, 3e, Marais | 01–42–77–79–28 | www.merci-merci.com | Closed Sun. No dinner | Station: St-Sébastien-Froissart.

FAMILY | L’As du Fallafel.

MIDDLE EASTERN | Look no further than the fantastic falafel stands on the pedestrian Rue de Rosiers for some of the cheapest and tastiest meals in Paris. L’As (the Ace) is widely considered the best of the bunch, which accounts for the lunchtime line that extends down the street. A falafel sandwich costs €5 to go, €7.50 in the dining room, and comes heaped with grilled eggplant, cabbage, hummus, tahini, and hot sauce. The shawarma (grilled, skewered meat) sandwich, made with chicken or lamb, is also one of the finest in town. Though takeout is popular, it can be more fun (and not as messy) to eat off a plastic plate in one of the two frenzied dining rooms. Fresh lemonade is the falafel’s best match. | Average main: €10 | 34 rue des Rosiers, 4e, Marais | 01–48–87–63–60 | Closed Sat. No dinner Fri. | Station: St-Paul.

Fodor’s Choice | Mon Vieil Ami.

MODERN FRENCH | “Modern Alsatian” might sound like an oxymoron, but once you’ve tasted the food here, you’ll understand. The updated medieval dining room—stone walls and dark-wood tables—provides a stylish milieu for the inventive cooking orchestrated by star Alsatian chef Antoine Westermann, which showcases heirloom vegetables (such as yellow carrots and pink-and-white beets) from star producer Joël Thiébault. Pâté en croûte (wrapped in pastry) with a knob of foie gras is hard to resist among the starters. Among the mains, red mullet might come in a bouillabaisse sauce with sautéed baby artichokes, and the shoulder of lamb with white beans, preserved lemon, and cilantro has become a classic. This is not necessarily the place for a romantic dinner, since seating is a little tight, but the quality of the food never falters, and the portions are quite generous. | Average main: €24 | 69 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 4e, Ile St-Louis | 01–40–46–01–35 | www.mon-vieil-ami.com | Closed 3 wks in Aug., and 3 wks in Jan. | Station: Pont Marie.

FAMILY | Astier.

BISTRO | There are three good reasons to go to Astier: the generous cheese platter plunked on your table atop a help-yourself wicker tray, the exceptional wine cellar with bottles dating back to the 1970s, and the French bistro fare (even if portions seem to have diminished over the years). Dishes like marinated herring with warm potato salad, sausage with lentils, and baba au rhum are classics on the frequently changing set menu for €35, which includes a selection of no less than 20 cheeses. The vintage 1950s wood-panel dining room attracts plenty of locals and remains a fairly sure bet in the area, especially because it’s open every day. | Average main: €21 | 44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11e, République | 01–43–57–16–35 | www.restaurant-astier.com | Reservations essential | Station: Parmentier.

Au Passage.

WINE BAR | This bistrot à vins has the lived-in look of a longtime neighborhood favorite—which it was until two veterans of the raging Paris wine bar scene reinvented the place, keeping the laid-back atmosphere and adding a serious foodie menu that quickly became one of the best deals in town. For lunch on Thursday and Friday, the two-course €18 menu du marché offers a choice of meat or fish, and at dinner the menu shifts to a blackboard selection of small €4 to €8 tapas dishes—including several house-made patés, fresh tomato or beet salad, a superb seafood carpaccio, and artisanal charcuterie and cheeses. Four or more diners can hack away at a crispy-succulent roasted lamb haunch. The excellent wine list features plenty of natural wines. It’s a diverse and lively crowd of happy diners who know they’ve found a very good thing. | Average main: €15 | 1 bis, Passage Saint-Sébastien, 11e, République | 01–43–55–07–52 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.–Wed. | Station: Saint Ambroise; Saint Sebastien Froissart; Richard Lenoir.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Bistrot Paul Bert.

BISTRO | Faded 1930s decor: check. Boisterous crowd: check. Thick steak with real frites: check. Good value: check. The Paul Bert delivers everything you could want from a traditional Paris bistro, so it’s no wonder its two dining rooms fill every night with a cosmopolitan crowd. Some are from the neighborhood, others have done their bistro research, but they’ve all come for the balance of ingredients that makes for a feel-good experience every time. The impressively stocked wine cellar helps, as does the cheese cart, the laid-back yet efficient staff, and hearty dishes such as monkfish with white beans and duck with pears. The reasonable prix fixe is three courses for €38, or you can order à la carte. If you’re looking for an inexpensive wine, choose from the chalkboard rather than the wine list. | Average main: €24 | 18 rue Paul Bert, 11e, Bastille/Nation | 01–43–72–24–01 | n/a | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug. | Station: Rue des Boulets.

Le Dauphin.

WINE BAR | Avant-garde chef Inaki Aizpatarte has struck again, transforming (with a little help from Rem Koolhaas) a dowdy little café two doors from his acclaimed Le Chateaubriand into a sleek, if chilly, all-marble watering hole for late-night cuisinistas. Honing his ever-iconoclastic take on tapas, the dishes served here—along with a thoughtful selection of natural wines—are a great way to get an idea of what all the fuss is about. Offerings like sweetly delicate crabmeat punctuated with tart marinated radish and avocado puree, or a well-prepared lemon sole drizzled with hazelnut butter highlight what this chef can do with quality ingredients. Dishes are small, well-priced, and meant to be shared to maximize exposure to the food. | Average main: €20 | 131 av. Parmentier, 11e, Canal St-Martin | 01–55–28–78–88 | www.restaurantledauphin.net | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., and 1 wk Christmas. No lunch Sat. | Station: Parmentier.

Le Galopin.

BISTRO | Across from a pretty square on the border of two up-and-coming neighborhoods, this open, light-drenched spot, run by brothers Maxime and Romain Teschenko (the former a veteran of Inaki Aizpitarte’s Chateaubriand and the latter Top Chef 2010) is one of Paris’s better bistros. While the brothers adhere to a tried-and-true formula—meticulously sourced produce, natural wines, open kitchen—they’ve managed to make it very much their own. Dishes are small wonders of texture and flavor, like velvety Basque pork with razor-thin slices of cauliflower, briny olives, and crunchy pumpkinseeds; or crisp-moist sea bass with spring-fresh asparagus and mint. A great choice for diners eager to experience what this scene’s all about in a hip, off-the-beaten-path locale. | Average main: €20 | 34 rue Sainte-Marthe, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01–42–06–05–03 | www.le-galopin.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch | Station: Goncourt, Belleville, Colonel Fabien.

Le Repaire de Cartouche.

BISTRO | In this split-level, dark-wood bistro between Bastille and République, chef Rodolphe Paquin applies a disciplined creativity to earthy French regional dishes. The menu changes regularly, but typical options are a salad of haricots verts topped with tender slices of squid; scallops on a bed of diced pumpkin; juicy lamb with white beans; game dishes in winter; and old-fashioned desserts like baked custard with tiny shell-shaped madeleines. In keeping with cost-conscious times, there is a bargain three-course lunch menu for €19 that doesn’t skimp on ingredients—expect the likes of homemade pâté to start, followed by fried red mullet or hanger steak with french fries, and chocolate tart. The wine list is very good, too, with some bargain selections from small producers. | Average main: €24 | 99 rue Amelot, 11e, Bastille/Nation | 01–47–00–25–86 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug. | Station: Filles du Calvaire.

Philou.

BISTRO | On a quiet street between Canal St-Martin and the historic Hôpital Saint-Louis, few places could be more pleasant than a sidewalk table at this most welcome addition to Paris’s thriving bistro scene. On a cool day the red banquettes and Ingo Maurer chandelier cast a cozy glow, all the better to enjoy a hearty, well-priced selection of dishes, like slices of foie gras served atop crème de lentilles and sprinkled with garlicky croutons, ham clafoutis with girolle mushrooms, or a rosy beef entrecôte with roasted baby Yukon gold potatoes and mushrooms de Paris. In springtime, fat white asparagus is nicely paired with salty smoked haddock and spring peas. A wine list replete with well-chosen natural wines plus the reasonable €27 tasting menu at lunch and €34 at dinner make it one of more popular tables in town, so reserve ahead. | Average main: €22 | 12 av. Richerand, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01–42–38–00–13 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. | Station: Jacques Bonsergent.

Septime.

BISTRO | This is the kind of bistro we’d all love in our neighborhood—good food and a convivial atmosphere where diners crane to admire each other’s plates. Bertrand Grébaut, the affable young chef, can often be found chatting away with guests in the cacophonous dining room. In a neighborhood where excellent bistro fare is ridiculously plentiful—thanks to several talented young chefs who’ve set up shop here in the last few years—this spot stands out. Seasonal ingredients, inventive pairings, excellent natural wines, plus dishes like creamy gnochetti in an orange rind–flecked Gouda sauce sprinkled with coriander flowers; tender fillet of Landes hen in a mustard-peanut sauce, with braised endive and cabbage perfumed with lemon; fresh white asparagus with raspberries and blanched almonds, are sophisticated and satisfying. The €28 weekday lunch menu is a good place to begin. | Average main: €20 | 80 rue de Charonne, 11e, Bastille/Nation | 01–43–67–38–29 | www.septime-charonne.fr | Reservations essential | Closed weekends. No lunch Mon. | Station: Ledru Rollin, Charonne.

LATIN QUARTER

La Tour d’Argent.

MODERN FRENCH | La Tour d’Argent has had a rocky time in recent years with the death of owner Claude Terrail, but chef Laurent Delarbre has found his footing, and there’s no denying the splendor of the setting overlooking the Seine. If you don’t want to splash out on dinner, treat yourself to the three-course lunch menu for a reduced price of €75; this entitles you to succulent slices of one of the restaurant’s numbered ducks (the great duck slaughter began in 1919 and is now well past the millionth mallard, as your numbered certificate will attest). Don’t be too daunted by the vast wine list—with the aid of the sommelier you can splurge a little (about €85) and perhaps taste a rare vintage Burgundy from the extraordinary cellars, which survived World War II. | Average main: €95 | 15–17 quai de la Tournelle, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–54–23–31 | www.latourdargent.com | Reservations essential | Jacket and tie | Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug. | Station: Cardinal Lemoine.

Lapérouse.

BISTRO | Émile Zola, George Sand, and Victor Hugo were regulars here, and the restaurant’s mirrors still bear diamond scratches from the days when mistresses would double-check their jewels’ value. It’s hard not to fall in love with this storied 17th-century Seine-side town house with a warren of woodwork-graced salons. Christophe Guilbert’s cuisine seeks a balance between traditional and modern, often drawing on Mediterranean inspirations. For a truly intimate meal, reserve one of the legendary private salons where anything can happen (and probably has). You can also sample the restaurant’s magic at lunch, when a bargain prix-fixe menu is served for €45 in both the main dining room and the private salons. | Average main: €45 | 51 quai des Grands Augustins, 6e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–26–68–04 | www.laperouse.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat. | Station: St-Michel.

Le Pré Verre.

MODERN FRENCH | Chef Philippe Delacourcelle knows his cassia bark from his cinnamon thanks to a long stint in Asia. He opened this lively bistro with its purple-gray walls and photos of jazz musicians to showcase his culinary style, rejuvenating archetypal French dishes with Asian and Mediterranean spices. His bargain prix-fixe menus (€13.90 at lunch, €30.50 at dinner) change constantly, but his trademark spiced suckling pig with crisp cabbage is always a winner, as is his rhubarb compote with gingered white-chocolate mousse. Ask for advice in selecting wine from a list that highlights small producers. | Average main: €19 | 8 rue Thénard, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–54–59–47 | www.lepreverre.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., and 1 wk at Christmas | Station: Maubert-Mutualité.

Les Papilles.

WINE BAR | Part wineshop and épicerie, part restaurant, Les Papilles has a winning formula—pick any bottle off the well-stocked shelf and pay a €7 corkage fee to drink it with your meal. You can also savor one of several superb wines by the glass at your table or around the classic zinc bar. The superb set menu—made with top-notch, seasonal ingredients—usually begins with a luscious velouté, a velvety soup served from a large tureen, and proceeds with a hearty-yet-tender meat dish alongside perfectly cooked vegetables—well worth spending a little extra time for lunch or dinner. | Average main: €18 | 30 rue Gay-Lussac, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–25–20–79 | www.lespapillesparis.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., last wk of July and 2 wks in Aug. | Station: Cluny–La Sorbonne.

Ribouldingue.

BISTRO | Find offal off-putting? Off-cuts take pride of place on the prix-fixe menu (€28 at lunch, €34 at dinner), but don’t let that stop you from trying this bistro near the ancient St-Julien-le-Pauvre church. You can avoid odd animal bits completely, if you must, and still have an excellent meal—opt for dishes like marinated salmon or veal rib with fingerling potatoes—or go out on a limb with the tétine de vache (thin breaded and fried slices of cow’s udder) and groin de cochon (the tip of a pig’s snout). This adventurous menu is the brainchild of Nadège Varigny, daughter of a Lyonnais butcher (quel surprise). Veal kidney with potato gratin is a house classic, and there are always three fish dishes. Don’t miss the unusual desserts, like tangy ewe’s-milk ice cream. | Average main: €21 | 10 rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–46–33–98–80 | www.ribouldingue-restaurant.fr | Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug. | Station: St-Michel.

Sola.

ECLECTIC | Chef Hiroki Yoshitake was schooled in the kitchens of famed innovators Pascal Barbot of Astrance and William Ledeuil of Ze Kitchen Galerie before striking out on his own. Dishes like miso-lacquered foie gras, served with toasted pain de mie, or sake-glazed suckling pig—perfectly crisp on the outside and melting inside—pair traditional Japanese and French ingredients to wondrous effect. Plates are artfully arranged with a sprinkling of piquant shiso leaves or jewel-like roasted vegetables to please the eye and the palate. Costing €48, the three-course set lunch menu offers a choice of fish or meat and finishes with Fukano Hirobu’s stunning confections. Shoes stay on in the tranquil half-timbered dining room upstairs, but the vaulted room downstairs is totally traditional—and one of the loveliest in Paris. | Average main: €35 | 12 Rue de l’Hôtel Colbert, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–29–59–04 | restaurant-sola.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. | Station: Maubert Mutualié.

Fodor’s Choice | Ze Kitchen Galerie.

MODERN FRENCH | William Ledeuil made his name at the popular Les Bouquinistes before opening this contemporary bistro in a loftlike space. The name might not be inspired, but the cooking shows creativity and a sense of fun: from a deliberately deconstructed menu featuring raw fish, soups, pastas, and à la plancha (grilled) plates, consider the roast and confit duck with a tamarind-and-sesame condiment and foie gras, or lobster with mussels, white beans, and Thai herbs. A tireless experimenter, Ledeuil buys heirloom vegetables direct from farmers and tracks down herbs and spices in Asian supermarkets. The menu changes monthly, and there are several different prix-fixe options at lunch, starting at €40. | Average main: €39 | 4 rue des Grands-Augustins, 6e, Latin Quarter | 01–44–32–00–32 | www.zekitchengalerie.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. | Station: St-Michel.

ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS

Hélène Darroze.

MODERN FRENCH | The most celebrated female chef in Paris is now cooking at the Connaught in London, but her St-Germain dining room is an exclusive setting for her sophisticated take on southwestern French food. Darroze’s intriguingly modern touch comes through in such dishes as a sublime duck foie gras confit served with an exotic-fruit chutney or a blowout of roast wild duck stuffed with foie gras and truffles. At its best, the food lives up to the very high prices, but for a sampling without the wallet shock, her €35 seven-course tapas lunch menu, including a glass of wine, is one of the best deals in town. | Average main: €85 | 4 rue d’Assas, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–42–22–00–11 | www.helenedarroze.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. | Station: Sèvres-Babylone.

Josephine Chez Dumonet.

BISTRO | Theater types, politicos, and locals fill the moleskin banquettes of this venerable bistro, where the frosted-glass lamps and amber walls put everyone in a good light. Unlike most bistros, Josephine caters to the indecisive, since generous half portions allow you to graze your way through the temptingly retro menu. Try the excellent boeuf bourguignon, roasted saddle of lamb with artichokes, top-notch steak tartare prepared table-side, or anything with truffles in season; game is also a specialty in fall and winter. For dessert, choose between a mille-feuille big enough to serve three and a Grand Marnier soufflé that simply refuses to sink, even with prodding. The wine list, like the food, is outstanding if expensive. | Average main: €34 | 117 rue du Cherche-Midi, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–45–48–52–40 | Reservations essential | Closed weekends | Station: Duroc.

La Ferrandaise.

BISTRO | Portraits of cows adorn the stone walls of this bistro near the Luxembourg Gardens, hinting at the kitchen’s penchant for meaty cooking (Ferrandaise is a breed of cattle). Still, there’s something for every taste on the market-inspired menu, which always lists three meat and three fish mains. Dill-marinated salmon with sweet mustard sauce is a typical starter, and a thick, milk-fed veal chop might come with a squash pancake and spinach. The dining room buzzes with locals who appreciate the good-value €35 prix fixe—there is no à la carte—and the brilliant bento box–style €16 lunch menu, in which three courses are served all at once. | Average main: €24 | 8 rue de Vaugirard, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–43–26–36–36 | www.laferrandaise.com | Closed Sun. and 3 wks in Aug. No lunch Mon. and Sat. | Station: Odéon, RER: Luxembourg.

Le Comptoir du Relais Saint-Germain.

BISTRO | Run by legendary bistro chef Yves Camdeborde, this tiny Art Deco hotel restaurant is booked up well in advance for the single dinner sitting that features a five-course, €65 set menu of haute-cuisine food. On weekdays from noon to 6 and weekends until 10, a brasserie menu is served; reservations are not accepted, resulting in long lines and brisk, sometimes shockingly rude, service. Start with charcuterie or pâté, then choose from open-faced sandwiches like a smoked salmon–and–comté cheese croque monsieur, gourmet salads, and a variety of hot dishes such as braised beef cheek, roast tuna, and Camdeborde’s famed deboned and breaded pig’s trotter. If you don’t mind bus fumes, sidewalk tables make for prime people-watching in summer. Camdeborde also runs neighboring Avant Comptoir, a minuscule stand-up zinc bar with hanging hams and sausages where you can score a superb plate of charcuteri and an inky glass of Morgon. Quality crêpes and sandwiches are still served from the window out front. | Average main: €22 | 9 carrefour de l’Odéon, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–44–27–07–50 | www.hotel-paris-relais-saint-germain.com | Station: Odéon.

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon.

MODERN FRENCH | Worldwide phenomenon Joël Robuchon retired from the restaurant business for several years before opening this red-and-black-lacquer space with a bento-box-meets-tapas aesthetic. High seats surround two U-shape bars, and this novel plan encourages neighbors to share recommendations and opinions. Robuchon’s devoted kitchen staff whip up small plates for grazing (€19 to €75) as well as full portions, which can turn out to be the better bargain. Highlights from the oft-changing menu have included an intense tomato jelly topped with avocado puree and the thin-crusted mackerel tart, although his inauthentic (but who’s complaining?) take on carbonara with cream and Alsatian bacon, and the merlan Colbert (fried herb butter) remain signature dishes. Reservations are taken for the first sittings only at lunch and dinner. | Average main: €36 | 5 rue Montalembert, 7e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–42–22–56–56 | www.joel-robuchon.net | Station: Rue du Bac.

FAMILY | L’Epigramme.

BISTRO | Great bistro food is not so hard to find in Paris, but only rarely does it come in a comfortable setting. At L’Epigramme, the striped orange-and-yellow chairs are softly padded, there’s space between you and your neighbors, and a big glass pane lets in plenty of light from the courtyard. Chef Karine Camcian has an almost magical touch with meat: try her stuffed suckling pig with turnip choucroute, or seared slices of pink lamb with root vegetables in a glossy reduced sauce. In winter the eleborate game dish lièvre à la royale (hare stuffed with goose or duck liver and cooked in wine) sometimes makes an appearance. Desserts are not quite as inspired, so try to take a peek at the plates coming out of the kitchen before making your choice. | Average main: €25 | 9 rue de l’Eperon, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–44–41–00–09 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., 3 wks in Aug., and 1 wk at Christmas | Station: Odéon.

Fodor’s Choice | Semilla.

BISTRO | The duo behind the popular neighborhood bistro Fish and the excellent La Dernière Goutte wine shop have poured their significant expertise into this laid-back new bistro in the heart of tony Saint Germain des Prés. Its sophisticated cuisine, superb wines by the bottle or glass, and total lack of pretension has quickly made Semilla the toast of the town. A lively open kitchen produces a menu of plentiful dishes either raw, roasted, baked, or steamed, with choices that will thrill both carnivores and herbivores. Velvety chestnut soup, lentil croquettes with a light curry emulsion, beet carpaccio, and the excellent marinated salmon are good choices to start, followed by roasted coquilles Saint Jacques with Jerusalem artichoke purée or venison served with celery root and quince. There are also plenty of bistro classics to choose from, like beef tartare or côte de boeuf with roasted potatoes and a fine sauce bordelaise, and it’s open Sunday. | Average main: €25 | 54 rue de Seine, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–43–54–34–50 | Reservations essential | Station: Odéon, Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

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Around the Eiffel Tower | Champs-Élysées | Around the Louvre | The Grands Boulevards | Eastern Paris | Latin Quarter | St-Germain-des-Pres | Montparnasse

If your Parisian fantasy involves staying in a historic hotel with the smell of fresh-baked croissants gently rousing you in the morning, here’s some good news: you need not be Ritz-rich to realize it. With more than 1,450 hotels, the City of Light gives visitors stylish options in all price ranges.

Although historic charm is a given, space to stretch out is not. Even budget travelers can sleep under 200-year-old wooden beams, but if you’re looking for enough room to spread out multiple suitcases, better book a suite in a four-star palace hotel. Indoor spaces—from beds to elevators—may feel cramped to those not used to life on a European scale. A no-smoking law went into effect in all public spaces in 2008. Enforcement is not always perfect, but at least now you’ll have a valid complaint if your room smells like stale smoke. Amenities have also improved, with virtually every hotel now equipped with cable TV, in-room safe, and Wi-Fi access (though not always free). A recent change is the increasing availability of air-conditioning, which can be saintly in August.

AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER

Hôtel du Champ de Mars.

HOTEL | Around the corner from picturesque Rue Cler, this charming, affordable hotel welcomes guests with a Provence-inspired lobby and huge picture windows overlooking a quiet street. Pros: good value; walking distance to Eiffel Tower, Les Invalides, and Rodin Museum; free Wi-Fi. Cons: small rooms compared to larger hotels; no air-conditioning; inconsistent service. | Rooms from: €120 | 7 rue du Champ de Mars, 7e, Around the Eiffel Tower | 01–45–51–52–30 | www.hotelduchampdemars.com | 25 rooms | Breakfast | Station: École Militaire.

Hôtel Eiffel Trocadéro.

HOTEL | A curious blend of Second Empire and Rococo styling awaits guests in this hotel on a quiet corner just off Place Trocadéro. Pros: views of Eiffel Tower from upper floors; upscale residential district convenient to métro; organic breakfast buffet. Cons: no full-service restaurant; long walk to center of town; basic rooms feel cramped. | Rooms from: €300 | 35 rue Benjamin-Franklin, Around the Eiffel Tower | 01–53–70–17–70 | www.hoteleiffeltrocadero.com | 16 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast | Station: Trocadéro.

Hôtel Le Bellechasse.

HOTEL | If you like eclectic modern interior design, this tiny boutique hotel right around the corner from the popular Musée d’Orsay is a good choice for its access to the major sites. Pros: central location near top museums; one-of-a-kind style; helpful staff. Cons: pricey rates; street-facing rooms can be noisy; open bathrooms lack privacy. | Rooms from: €390 | 8 rue de Bellechasse, 7e, Around the Eiffel Tower | 01–45–50–22–31 | Fax 01–45–51–52–36 | www.lebellechasse.com | 33 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast | Station: Solferino.

Hôtel Le Tourville.

HOTEL | This cozy, contemporary haven near the Eiffel Tower, Champs de Mars, and Invalides is a comfortable base for exploring Paris. Pros: convenient location near métro; friendly service; soundproof windows. Cons: standard rooms are small; air-conditioning only during summer months; no restaurant. | Rooms from: €295 | 16 av. de Tourville, 7e, Around the Eiffel Tower | 01–47–05–62–62 | www.hoteltourville.com | 27 rooms, 3 suites | Station: École Militaire.

Fodor’s Choice | Shangri-La Hotel Paris.

HOTEL | French elegance at its best, this impressively restored 19th-century mansion gazing across the Seine at the Eiffel Tower was once the stately home of Prince Roland Bonaparte, grandnephew of the emperor himself. Pros: close to the métro and luxury shopping; varied culinary options for all tastes; exceptional suites. Cons: astronomically high rates; pool only open until 9 pm; some obstructed views. | Rooms from: €1000 | 10 av. Iéna, 16e, Around the Eiffel Tower | 01–53–67–19–98 | Fax 01–53–67–19–19 | www.shangri-la.com | 65 rooms, 36 suites | Station: Iéna.

CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

Champs-Élysées Plaza Hotel and Wellness.

HOTEL | Discreet, contemporary elegance sums up this graciously renovated seven-story town house steps from the hustle-and-bustle of the Champs-Élysées. Pros: extremely comfortable and elegant rooms; friendly, attentive service; central location. Cons: small spa; gym only has five machines; limited breakfast buffet. | Rooms from: €400 | 35 rue de Berri, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–53–53–20–20 | www.champs-elysees-plaza.com | 35 rooms and suites | Breakfast | Station: St-Philippe-du-Roule, George V.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Four Seasons Hôtel George V Paris.

HOTEL | The George V is as poised and polished as the day it opened in 1928—the original plaster detailing and 17th-century tapestries have been restored, the bas-reliefs regilded, and the marble-floor mosaics rebuilt tile by tile. Pros: privileged address near top boutiques; courtyard dining in summer; indoor swimming pool. Cons: several blocks from the nearest métro; extra charge for Wi-Fi; lacks the intimacy of smaller boutique hotels. | Rooms from: €1000 | 31 av. George V, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–49–52–70–00, 800/332–3442 in U.S. | www.fourseasons.com/paris | 184 rooms, 60 suites | Breakfast | Station: George V.

Hôtel Fouquet’s Barrière.

HOTEL | Steps away from one of the world’s most famous streets, this luxury hotel adjacent to the legendary Fouquet’s Brasserie at the corner of the Champs-Élysées and Avenue George V is recognizable by its uniformed valets, parked sports cars, and elegant Haussmanien entryway. Pros: many rooms overlook the Champs-Élysées; métro very close; beautiful spa and fitness center. Cons: very expensive prices; bar can get overcrowded; corporate events give the place a business hotel feel. | Rooms from: €690 | 46 av. George V, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–40–69–60–00 | www.fouquets-barriere.com | 81 rooms, 33 suites | Breakfast | Station: George V.

Hôtel Lancaster.

HOTEL | Once a Spanish nobleman’s town house, this luxurious retreat dating from 1889 dazzles with its elegant decor, lush courtyard, and international restaurant led by Chef Julien Roucheteau. Pros: steps away from the Champs-Élysées and five minutes from métro; excellent seasonal menus at La Table du Lancaster; Sunday brunch with organic farm products. Cons: size of rooms varies greatly; pricey room service; decor look tired. | Rooms from: €670 | 7 rue de Berri, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–40–76–40–76, 877/757–2747 in U.S. | www.hotel-lancaster.fr | 43 rooms, 14 suites | Breakfast | Station: George V.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Plaza Athénée.

HOTEL | “Superlative” sums up the overall impression of this glamorous landmark hotel on one of the most expensive avenues in Paris, treated to a top-to-bottom facelift in 2014. Pros: Eiffel Tower views; special attention to children; Dior Institute spa. Cons: vast difference in style of rooms; easy to feel anonymous in such a large hotel; exorbitant prices. | Rooms from: €1100 | 25 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–53–67–66–65, 866/732–1106 in U.S. | www.dorchestercollection.com/fr/paris/hotel-plaza-athenee-paris | 194 rooms, 46 suites | Breakfast | Station: Alma-Marceau.

FAMILY | Hôtel Raphael.

HOTEL | This discreet palacelike hotel was built in 1925 to cater to travelers spending a season in Paris, so every space is generously sized for long, lavish stays. Pros: a block from the Champs-Élysées and Arc de Triomphe; rooftop garden terrace; intimate hotel bar frequented by locals. Cons: decor that can feel worn and dowdy; some soundproofing issues; neighborhood has a majestic yet cold atmosphere. | Rooms from: €670 | 17 av. Kléber, 16e, Champs-Élysées | 01–53–64–32–00 | www.raphael-hotel.com | 53 rooms, 39 suites | Breakfast | Station: Kléber.

Pershing Hall.

HOTEL | Built in the 18th century for French aristocracy and once serving as the American Legion Hall, this boutique hotel is a must-stay address for the dressed-in-black pack. Pros: prime shopping and nightlife district; excellent Sunday brunch buffet; free Wi-Fi throughout hotel. Cons: bar noise can be heard in some rooms; inconsistent service. | Rooms from: €486 | 49 rue Pierre-Charron, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–58–36–58–00 | www.pershinghall.com | 20 rooms, 6 suites | Breakfast | Station: George V, Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.

AROUND THE LOUVRE

FAMILY | Hôtel Brighton.

HOTEL | A few of the city’s most prestigious hotels face the Tuileries or Place de la Concorde, but the 19th-century Brighton occupies the same prime real estate and offers a privileged stay for a fraction of the price. Pros: convenient central location; friendly service; breakfast buffet (free for kids under 12). Cons: some areas in need of repair; variable quality in decor between rooms; no restaurant for lunch or dinner. | Rooms from: €260 | 218 rue de Rivoli, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–47–03–61–61 | www.paris-hotel-brighton.com | 61 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Tuileries.

Hôtel Henri IV.

HOTEL | This 17th-century building, which once housed King Henri IV’s printing presses, offers few comforts or amenities, but you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more central hotel for this price. Pros: very quiet; top rooms have balconies; basic breakfast included. Cons: steep stairs in poor condition and no elevator; few services or amenities;phone reservations only. | Rooms from: €83 | 25 pl. Dauphine, 1er, Ile de la Cité | 01–43–54–44–53 | www.henri4hotel.fr | 15 rooms, 14 with bath | Breakfast | Station: Cité, St-Michel, Pont Neuf.

Hôtel Le Pradey.

HOTEL | Offering Michel Cluizel chocolates and Fragonard toiletries, this compact boutique hotel near the Tuileries has a luxe feel. Pros: choice of copious breakfast buffet or quick coffee and croissant; designer touches throughout; double doors for soundproofing in suites. Cons: smaller rooms lack closet space; rooms vary greatly in style; nondescript entry and lackluster service results in lukewarm welcome. | Rooms from: €370 | 5 rue St-Roch, 1e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–60–31–70 | www.lepradey.com | 21 rooms, 7 suites | Breakfast | Station: Tuileries.

Hôtel Londres St-Honoré.

HOTEL | Smack-dab in the center of Paris, this no-frills hotel across from a 17th-century church gets points for its location—shops, restaurants, and points of interest are literally steps away. Pros: within walking distance of major sites; friendly service; free Wi-Fi. Cons: small beds with worn decor; tiny elevator doesn’t go to ground floor; extremely narrow staircase. | Rooms from: €149 | 13 rue St-Roch, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–60–15–62 | www.hotellondressthonore-paris.com | 24 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast | Station: Pyramides.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Meurice.

HOTEL | Since 1835, the Meurice has welcomed royalty and celebrities from the Duchess of Windsor to Salvador Dalí—who both resided in the grande dame establishment—and Paris’ first palace hotel continues to please with service, style, and views. Pros: stunning art and architecture; views over the Tuileries gardens; central location convenient to métro and major sites. Cons: popularity makes the public areas not very discreet; inconsistent front desk service at times inattentive; très expensive. | Rooms from: €720 | 228 rue de Rivoli, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–44–58–10–09 | www.lemeurice.com | 118 rooms, 42 suites | No meals | Station: Tuileries, Concorde.

Meliá Vendome Boutique Hotel.

HOTEL | In a prestigious quarter a few minutes from the Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde, Opéra Garnier, and the Louvre, the Melia Vendome has handsome and spacious rooms in attractive contemporary tones that exude an understated elegance. Pros: outstanding location in the city center; near world-class shopping; elegant, immaculate rooms. Cons: expensive breakfast; no spa or pool; in-room cooling system unreliable. | Rooms from: €350 | 8 rue Cambon, 1e, Around the Louvre | 01–44–77–54–00 | www.melia.com/en/hotels/france/paris/melia-vendome-boutique-hotel/index.html | 78 rooms, 5 suites | Breakfast | Station: Concorde, Madeleine.

FAMILY | Ritz.

HOTEL | Ever since César Ritz opened the doors of his hotel in 1898, the mere name of this venerable institution in one of Paris’s most exclusive spots has become synonymous with luxury. Pros: spacious swimming pool; superlative selection of bars and restaurants; top-notch service. Cons: easy to get lost in the vast hotel; paparazzi magnet; astronomical prices. | Rooms from: €1000 | 15 pl. Vendôme, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–43–16–30–30 | www.ritzparis.com | 105 rooms, 56 suites | No meals | Station: Opéra.

THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS

Golden Tulip Opera de Noailles.

HOTEL | With a nod to the work of postmodern designers like Putman and Starck, this stylish boutique hotel is both contemporary and cozy. Pros: 15- to 20-minute walk to the Louvre and Opéra; a block from the airport bus; free Wi-Fi. Cons: no interesting views; some bathrooms in need of renovation; small elevator. | Rooms from: €319 | 9 rue de Michodière, 2e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–47–42–92–90 | www.goldentulipoperadenoailles.com | 56 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Opéra.

Hôtel Chopin.

HOTEL | A unique mainstay of the district, the Chopin recalls its 1846 birth date with a creaky-floored lobby and aged woodwork. Pros: special location; close to major métro station; great nightlife district. Cons: thin walls; single rooms are very small; few amenities. | Rooms from: €94 | 10 bd. Montmartre, 46 passage Jouffroy, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–47–70–58–10 | www.hotelchopin.fr | 36 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Grands Boulevards.

Hôtel Gramont Opéra.

HOTEL | Near the Opéra Garnier and some of the city’s best department stores, this family-owned boutique hotel has lots of little extras that make it a great value. Pros: good breakfast buffet with eggs to order; personalized and professional service; connecting rooms for families. Cons: singles have no desk; small bathrooms; elevator doesn’t go to top floor rooms. | Rooms from: €145 | 22 rue Gramont, 2e, Grands Boulevards | 01–42–96–85–90 | www.hotel-gramont-opera.com | 22 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast | Station: Quatre-Septembre.

Hôtel Langlois.

HOTEL | After starring in the 2002 film The Truth About Charlie, this darling hotel gained a reputation as one of the most atmospheric budget sleeps in the city. Pros: excellent views from the top floor; close to department stores and Opéra Garnier; historic decor. Cons: noisy street; off the beaten path; some sagging furniture and worn fabrics. | Rooms from: €190 | 63 rue St-Lazare, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–48–74–78–24 | www.hotel-langlois.com | 24 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast | Station: Trinité.

Hôtel Queen Mary.

HOTEL | Although showing its age, this cozy hotel is well situated near high-end shopping and the city’s famous department stores. Pros: close to Place de la Madeleine; extra-attentive service; pretty garden. Cons: some rooms are claustrophobic; those on the ground floor and facing the street can be noisy; decor can feel somewhat old-fashioned. | Rooms from: €202 | 9 rue Greffulhe, 8e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–42–66–40–50 | www.hotelqueenmary.com | 36 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast | Station: Madeleine, St-Lazare, Havre Caumartin.

Hôtel Tiquetonne.

HOTEL | Just off the market street of Rue Montorgueil and a short walk from Les Halles, this is one of the least expensive hotels in the city center. Pros: cheap rooms in the center of town; in trendy shopping and nightlife area; some views onto Sacre Coeur. Cons: minimal service and no amenities; noise from the street; decor feels outdated. | Rooms from: €65 | 6 rue Tiquetonne, 2e, Les Halles | 01–42–36–94–58 | www.hoteltiquetonne.fr | 45 rooms, 33 with bath | No meals | Station: Étienne Marcel.

Fodor’s Choice | Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme.

HOTEL | Understated luxury with a contemporary Zen vibe differentiates this Hyatt from its more classic neighbors between the Place Vendôme and Opéra Garnier. Pros: stylish urban chic design; the latest technology; don’t-miss restaurants. Cons: as part of the Hyatt chain, it can feel anonymous; many corporate events held on site; very expensive room rates. | Rooms from: €830 | 3–5 rue de la Paix, 2e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–58–71–12–34 | www.paris.vendome.hyatt.com | 132 rooms, 36 suites | Breakfast | Station: Concorde, Opéra.

Fodor’s Choice | W Paris-Opéra.

HOTEL | Located near the Opéra Garnier, this 91-room hotel—the first W in France—feels part Moulin Rouge, part art gallery, with cheeky and irreverent touches strewn throughout. Pros: coveted location in historic 19th-century building; excellent restaurant; cutting-edge rooms with comfortable beds. Cons: fee for Wi-Fi; rooms and public spaces feel claustrophobic; light switches are confusing. | Rooms from: €450 | 4 rue Meyerbeer, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–77–48–94–94 | www.wparisopera.com | 85 rooms; 6 suites | No meals | Station: Chaussée d’Antin–La Fayette.

Hôtel Bourg Tibourg.

HOTEL | Scented candles and subdued lighting announce the blend of romance and contemplation designer-du-jour Jacques Garcia brought to the Hôtel Bourg Tibourg. Pros: in the heart of the trendy Marais; moderate prices; great nightlife district. Cons: rooms are small, poorly lit, and ill equipped for those with large suitcases; no hotel restaurant; lounge area gets crowded. | Rooms from: €250 | 19 rue Bourg Tibourg, 4e, Marais | 01–42–78–47–39 | www.hotelbourgtibourg.com | 29 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast | Station: Hôtel de Ville.

Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais.

HOTEL | For that traditional French feeling, book a room at this intimate, affordable, romantic hotel—the theme is the work of former next-door neighbor Pierre-Augustin Caron de Beaumarchais, a supplier of military aid to American revolutionaries and the playwright who penned The Marriage of Figaro and The Barber of Seville. Pros: cozy Parisian decor of yesteryear; breakfast in bed served until noon; excellent location within easy walking distance of major monuments. Cons: small rooms with few amenities; busy street of bars and cafés can be noisy; may feel old-fashioned for younger crowd. | Rooms from: €165 | 12 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4e, Marais | 01–42–72–34–12 | www.carondebeaumarchais.com | 19 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Hôtel de Ville.

Hôtel de la Bretonnerie.

HOTEL | In a 17th-century hôtel particulier (town house) on a side street in the Marais, this small hotel with exposed wooden beams and traditional styling sits a few minutes from the Centre Pompidou and the numerous bars and cafés of Rue Vieille du Temple. Pros: typical Parisian character; moderate prices; free Wi-Fi access. Cons: quality and size of the rooms vary greatly; no air-conditioning; rooms facing street can be noisy. | Rooms from: €212 | 22 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, 4e, Marais | 01–48–87–77–63 | www.bretonnerie.com | 22 rooms, 7 suites | Breakfast | Station: Hôtel de Ville.

Hôtel de la Place des Vosges.

HOTEL | Despite a Lilliputian elevator that doesn’t serve all floors, this small, simple hotel just off the 17th-century Place des Vosges draws a loyal clientele. Pros: excellent location near famous sights and public transportation; traditional ambience; reasonable rates. Cons: no air-conditioning; most rooms are very small; street-facing rooms can be noisy. | Rooms from: €140 | 12 rue de Birague, 4e, Marais | 01–42–72–60–46 | www.hotelplacedesvosges.com | 16 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Bastille.

Hôtel Duo.

HOTEL | For this hotel in the heart of the trendy Marais district, architect Jean Philippe Nuel was commissioned to bring things up to date with bold colors and dramatic lighting; some rooms still have the original 16th-century beams, but the overall feel is casual urban chic. Pros: central location near shops and cafés; walking distance to major monuments; good amenities. Cons: noisy neighborhood; service not always delivered with a smile; small standard rooms and bathrooms. | Rooms from: €290 | 11 rue du Temple, 4e, Marais | 01–42–72–72–22 | www.duoparis.com | 58 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Hôtel de Ville.

Hôtel Jeanne-d’Arc.

HOTEL | This hotel is prized for its unbeatable location off the tranquil Place du Marché Ste-Catherine, one of the city’s lesser-known pedestrian squares. Pros: charming street close to major attractions; good value for the Marais; lots of drinking and dining options nearby. Cons: noisy garbage trucks and late-night revelers on the square after midnight; dreary decor; no air-conditioning. | Rooms from: €110 | 3 rue de Jarente, 4e, Marais | 01–48–87–62–11 | www.hoteljeannedarc.com | 35 rooms | Station: St-Paul.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Jules & Jim.

HOTEL | In the less-traveled corner of the trendy Marais district, this contemporary boutique hotel feels almost like an art gallery. Pros: bright and modern; stylish design; close to public transportation. Cons: the small “Jules” rooms are best for those traveling light or staying just one night; no restaurant. | Rooms from: €220 | 11 rue des Gravilliers, 3e, Marais | 01–42–78–10–01 | www.hoteljulesetjim.com | 21 rooms, 2 duplexes | Breakfast | Station: Arts-et-métiers.

Hôtel Saint-Louis en L’Isle.

HOTEL | The location on the exceptionally charming Ile St-Louis is the real draw of this five-story hotel, which retains many of its original 17th-century stone walls and wooden beams. Pros: romantic location; ancient architectural details; friendly staff. Cons: location is a bit far from the sights; métro stations are not so convenient; small rooms. | Rooms from: €195 | 75 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 4e, Ile St-Louis | 01–46–34–04–80 | www.saintlouisenlisle.com | 20 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Pont Marie.

Pavillon de la Reine.

HOTEL | Hidden off the regal Place des Vosges behind a stunning garden courtyard, this enchanting château has gigantic beams, chunky stone pillars, and a weathered fireplace that speaks to its 1612 origins. Pros: historic character; quiet setting; soothing spa treatments. Cons: expensive for the area and the size of the rooms; the nearest métro is a few blocks away; no uniform theme in interior design. | Rooms from: €440 | 28 pl. des Vosges, 3e, Marais | 01–40–29–19–19, 800/447–7462 in U.S. | www.pavillon-de-la-reine.com | 31 rooms, 23 suites | Breakfast | Station: Bastille, St-Paul.

EASTERN PARIS

Hôtel Taylor.

HOTEL | Tucked away on a tiny one-way street between République and Canal St-Martin, the Hôtel Taylor offers spacious rooms at an affordable price in the edgy 10e arrondissement. Pros: close to the métro; Wi-Fi available; breakfast can be served in your room. Cons: bathrooms need refurbishment; street can seem intimidating at night; some rooms in need of renovation. | Rooms from: €136 | 6 rue Taylor, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01–42–40–11–01 | www.paris-hotel-taylor.com | 37 rooms | Breakfast | Station: République.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Citizen Hôtel.

HOTEL | Boasting direct views over the historic Canal St-Martin and a setting close to the Marais, Le Citizen features a minimalist-chic decor, high-tech touches like loaner iPads, and a cool East-Paris vibe. Pros: trendy neighborhood; cool perks; friendly, attentive staff. Cons: smallest rooms are best for one person or short stays; noisy street; about 20 minutes by métro from the main attractions. | Rooms from: €269 | 96 quai de Jemmapes, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01–83–62–55–50 | www.lecitizenhotel.com | 12 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Jacques-Bonsergent.

Hôtel Résidence Alhambra.

HOTEL | The gleaming white facade, enclosed garden, and flower-filled window boxes brighten this hotel in a lesser-known neighborhood between the Marais and Rue Oberkampf. Pros: popular nightlife district; friendly service; inexpensive rates. Cons: small doubles with dated decor; long walk to the center of town; no air-conditioning. | Rooms from: €130 | 13 rue de Malte, 11e, République | 01–47–00–35–52 | www.hotelalhambra.fr | 58 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Oberkampf.

LATIN QUARTER

The Five Hôtel.

HOTEL | Small is beautiful at this design hotel on a quiet street near the Rue Mouffetard market and the Latin Quarter. Pros: unique design; personalized welcome; quiet side street. Cons: most rooms are too small for excessive baggage; the nearest métro is a 15-minute walk; most rooms only have showers. | Rooms from: €225 | 3 rue Flatters, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–31–74–21 | www.thefivehotel.com | 24 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Gobelins.

Hôtel Collège de France.

HOTEL | Exposed stone walls, wooden beams, and medieval artwork echo the style of the Musée Cluny, two blocks from this charming family-run hotel. Pros: walking distance to major Rive Gauche sights; free Wi-Fi; ceiling fans. Cons: big difference between renovated and unrenovated rooms; thin walls between rooms; no air-conditioning. | Rooms from: €115 | 7 rue Thénard, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–26–78–36 | www.hotelcdf.com | 29 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Maubert-Mutualité, St-Michel–Cluny–La Sorbonne.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Familia.

HOTEL | Owners Eric and Sylvie Gaucheron continue to update and improve this popular budget hotel—they’ve added custom-made wood furniture from Brittany, antique tapestries and prints, and lovely carpeting. Pros: attentive, friendly service; great value; lots of character. Cons: on a busy street; some rooms are small; some noise between rooms. | Rooms from: €120 | 11 rue des Écoles, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–54–55–27 | www.familiahotel.com | 30 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Cardinal Lemoine.

Hôtel des Grandes Écoles.

HOTEL | Distributed among a trio of three-story buildings, Madame Le Floch’s rooms have a distinct grandmotherly vibe because of their flowery wallpaper and lace bedspreads, but they’re downright spacious for this part of Paris. Pros: close to Latin Quarter nightlife spots; lovely courtyard; good value. Cons: uphill walk from the métro; some noisy rooms; few amenities. | Rooms from: €150 | 75 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–26–79–23 | www.hotel-grandes-ecoles.com | 51 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Cardinal Lemoine.

Hotel Design de la Sorbonne.

HOTEL | For what French students pay to study at the Sorbonne (tuition is inexpensive), you can stay a few nights next door at this swanky design hotel—recently renovations brought a bigger lobby, designer rooms, a high-tech sound system, a new breakfast area, and free Wi-Fi access throughout the hotel. Pros: centrally located; fun decor; attentive service. Cons: tiny rooms for the price; small breakfast room; trendy design lacks traditional French flavors. | Rooms from: €320 | 6 rue Victor Cousin, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–54–01–52 | www.hotelsorbonne.com | 38 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Cluny La Sorbonne.

Hôtel du Lys.

HOTEL | To jump into an inexpensive Parisian fantasy, just climb the stairway to your room in this former 17th-century royal residence. Pros: central location on a quiet side street; historic character; free Wi-Fi. Cons: old-fashioned decor; perfunctory service, no air-conditioning or elevator. | Rooms from: €165 | 23 rue Serpente, 6e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–26–97–57 | www.hoteldulys.com | 22 rooms | Breakfast | Station: St-Michel, Odéon.

Hôtel Notre Dame.

HOTEL | If you love the quirky and eclectic fashions of Christian Lacroix and don’t mind hauling your bags up some steps, this unique boutique hotel overlooking Notre Dame may be for you. Pros: decor by Christian Lacroix; views of the river; comfortable beds. Cons: stairs can be tricky with large bags; no minibars; some noise from busy street. | Rooms from: €280 | 1 quai Saint-Michel, Latin Quarter | 01–43–54–20–43 | www.hotelnotredameparis.com | 26 rooms | Breakfast | Station: St-Michel.

Hôtel Saint Jacques.

HOTEL | Nearly every wall in this Latin Quarter hotel is bedecked with faux-marble and trompe-l’oeil murals. Pros: unique Parisian decor; close to Latin Quarter sights; free Wi-Fi. Cons: busy street makes it noisy in summer; thin walls between rooms; decor need refurbishment. | Rooms from: €216 | 35 rue des Écoles, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–44–07–45–45 | www.hotel-saintjacques.com | 38 rooms | Station: Maubert-Mutualité.

Hotel Seven.

HOTEL | The “seven” refers to the level of heaven you’ll find at this extraordinary boutique hotel, where a team of designers and artists has created seven magnificent suites with imaginative themes like Alice in Wonderland, James Bond, and Marie-Antoinette. Pros: fun design elements; copious breakfast buffet; quiet location near Mouffetard market street. Cons: small closets; several blocks to closest métro; expensive room rates for so few amenities. | Rooms from: €250 | 20 rue Berthollet, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–31–47–52 | www.sevenhotelparis.com | 28 rooms, 7 suites | Station: Censier-Daubentin.

Les Jardins du Luxembourg.

HOTEL | Blessed with a personable staff and a warm ambience, this hotel on a calm cul-de-sac puts you just a block away from the Jardin du Luxembourg. Pros: on a quiet street close to major attractions and transportation; hot buffet breakfast; relaxing sauna. Cons: extra charge for Wi-Fi; some very small rooms; air-conditioning not very strong. | Rooms from: €195 | 5 impasse Royer-Collard, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–40–46–08–88 | www.les-jardins-du-luxembourg.com | 26 rooms | Breakfast | Station: RER: Luxembourg.

Port-Royal Hôtel.

HOTEL | The sparkling rooms and extra-helpful staff at the Port-Royal are well above average for hotels in this price range. Pros: excellent value for the money; attentive service; close to two major markets. Cons: not very central; on a busy street; no room air-conditioning or Wi-Fi. | Rooms from: €93 | 8 bd. de Port-Royal, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–31–70–06 | www.hotelportroyal.fr | 46 rooms, 20 with bath | No credit cards | Breakfast | Station: Les Gobelins.

ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRES

Hôtel Bel-Ami.

HOTEL | A short stroll from the famous Café de Flore, the Bel-Ami hides its past as an 18th-century textile factory behind low-slung furnishings, computer stations, and flat-screen TVs. Pros: central St-Germain-des-Prés location; feels completely up to date; spacious fitness center and spa. Cons: some guests report loud noise between rooms; some small rooms in lower price category; not suitable for families with younger kids. | Rooms from: €500 | 7–11 rue St-Benoît, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–42–61–53–53 | www.hotel-bel-ami.com | 113 rooms, 2 suites | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.

FAMILY | Hôtel Bonaparte.

HOTEL | The service, amenities, and petit déjeuner (breakfast) may be far from luxurious at this unpretentious family-run hotel, but the location in the heart of St-Germain is fabulous. Pros: upscale shopping neighborhood; large rooms for the Rive Gauche; welcoming to families. Cons: outdated decor; minuscule elevator big enough for only one person; showers lack curtains. | Rooms from: €180 | 61 rue Bonaparte, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–43–26–97–37 | www.hotelbonaparte.fr | 29 rooms | Breakfast | Station: St-Sulpice.

FAMILY | Hôtel d’Aubusson.

HOTEL | The showpiece at this 17th-century town house in the heart of St-Germain-des-Prés is the stunning front lobby, spanned by massive beams and a gigantic stone fireplace reminiscent of French aristocratic homes of yore. Pros: central location near shops and a market street; spacious rooms; staff greets you warmly. Cons: some of the newer rooms lack character; busy street and bar can be noisy; very touristy. | Rooms from: €405 | 33 rue Dauphine, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–43–29–43–43 | www.hoteldaubusson.com | 49 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Odéon.

Hôtel Duc de Saint-Simon.

HOTEL | For pure French flavor, including rooms decorated in floral chintz, head to this intimate hotel in a hidden location between Boulevard St-Germain and Rue de Bac. Pros: upscale neighborhood close to St-Germain-des-Prés; historic character; friendly service. Cons: rooms in the annex are smaller and have no elevator; cramped bathrooms; no room service. | Rooms from: €250 | 14 rue St-Simon, 7e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–44–39–20–20 | www.hotelducdesaintsimon.com | 29 rooms, 5 suites | Breakfast | Station: Rue du Bac.

Hôtel Millésime.

HOTEL | The beautiful stone archway of this 17th-century city mansion in St-Germain-des-Prés was the original entrance to the Saint Germain Abbey—as you enter, you’ll feel transported to the sunny south of France. Pros: upscale shopping nearby; young, friendly staff; plenty of atmosphere. Cons: ground-floor rooms can be noisy; smoke from courtyard when windows are open; some furnishings need repair. | Rooms from: €250 | 15 rue Jacob, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–44–07–97–97 | www.millesimehotel.com | 20 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.

Hôtel Odéon Saint-Germain.

HOTEL | Exposed stone walls and original wooden beams give this 16th-century building typical Rive Gauche character, and designer Jacques Garcia’s generous use of striped taffeta curtains, velvet upholstery, and plush carpeting imbues it with the distinct luxury of St-Germain-des-Prés. Pros: free Internet; luxuriously appointed rooms; in an upscale shopping district near Jardin Luxembourg. Cons: small rooms a challenge for those with extra-large suitcases; tiny elevator; prices high for room size and average service. | Rooms from: €265 | 13 rue St-Sulpice, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–43–25–70–11 | www.paris-hotel-odeon.com | 22 rooms, 5 junior suites | Breakfast | Station: Odeon.

Hôtel Recamier.

HOTEL | This discreet boutique hotel in a quiet corner overlooking the Eglise St-Sulpice is perfect if you’re seeking a romantic and cozy hideaway in the St-Germain-des-Près district. Pros: peaceful garden couryard; free Wi-Fi and computer station; well-appointed bathrooms. Cons: small closets and bathrooms; room service only until 11 pm; no fitness area, spa, or restaurant; some interior details already look worn. | Rooms from: €270 | 3 bis, pl. St-Sulpice, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–43–26–04–89 | www.hotelrecamier.com | 24 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Mabillon.

Hôtel Relais Saint-Sulpice.

HOTEL | Sandwiched between St-Sulpice and the Jardin du Luxembourg, this little hotel wins accolades for its location. Pros: chic location; close to two métro stations; bright breakfast room and courtyard. Cons: some smallish rooms; noise from the street on weekend evenings; poorly designed lighting. | Rooms from: €200 | 3 rue Garancière, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–46–33–99–00 | www.relais-saint-sulpice.com | 26 rooms | Breakfast | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés, St-Sulpice.

L’Hôtel.

HOTEL | There’s something just a bit naughty in the air at this eccentric and opulent boutique hotel. Pros: luxurious decor; elegant bar and restaurant; walking distance to the Musée d’Orsay and the Louvre. Cons: some rooms are very small for the price; closest métro station is a few blocks away; eclectic decoration seems mismatched. | Rooms from: €295 | 13 rue des Beaux-Arts, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–44–41–99–00 | www.l-hotel.com | 16 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.

Relais Christine.

HOTEL | On a quiet street on the Left Bank, this exquisite hotel de charme dates back to the 13th century as a former abbey of the Grands-Augustins and has an impressive stone courtyard and interior garden. Pros: quiet address; close to the Latin Quarter action; historic character. Cons: thin walls in some rooms; no on-site restaurant; a bit touristy. | Rooms from: €400 | 3 rue Christine, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–40–51–60–80, 800/525–4800 in U.S. | www.relais-christine.com | 33 rooms, 18 suites | Breakfast | Station: Odéon.

MONTPARNASSE

Apostrophe Hotel.

HOTEL | Those enamored of the artistic and literary history of Paris’s Left Bank will appreciate this whimsical family-run hotel between Montparnasse and Luxembourg Gardens. Pros: very friendly multilingual staff; quiet street in charming neighborhood; close to métro. Cons: limited closet space; little privacy with bathrooms opening up directly to rooms; no restaurant or bar. | Rooms from: €230 | 3 rue de Chevreuse, 6e, Montparnasse | 01–56–54–31–31 | www.apostrophe-hotel.com | 16 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Vavin.

Hôtel Raspail-Montparnasse.

HOTEL | Montparnasse was the art capital of the world in the ‘20s and ‘30s, and this affordable hotel captures some of that spirit by naming its rooms after some of the illustrious neighborhood stars—Picasso, Chagall, and Modigliani. Pros: convenient to métro and bus; many markets and cafés nearby; friendly staff. Cons: traffic noise; some rooms small with stale cigarette smoke odor; dated interiors with worn fabrics. | Rooms from: €170 | 203 bd. Raspail, 14e, Montparnasse | 01–43–20–62–86 | www.hotelraspailmontparnasse.com | 38 rooms | Breakfast | Station: Vavin.

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The Arts | Nightlife

The performing-arts scene in Paris runs the gamut from highbrow to lowbrow, cheap (or free) to break-the-bank expensive. Venues are indoors and outdoors, opulent or spartan, and dress codes vary accordingly. Regardless of the performance you choose, it’s unlikely to be like anything you’ve seen before. Parisians have an audacious sense of artistic adventure and a stunning eye for scene and staging. An added bonus in this city of classic beauty is that many of the venues themselves—from the opulent interiors of the Opéra Garnier and the Opéra Royal de Versailles to the Art Deco splendor of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées—are a feast for the eyes.

Detailed entertainment listings in French can be found in the weekly magazines Pariscope and L’Officiel des Spectacles, available at newsstands and in bookstores; in the Wednesday entertainment insert Figaroscope, in the Figaro newspaper (www.scope.lefigaro.fr/theatres-spectacles); and in the weekly À Nous Paris, distributed free in the métro. The webzine Paris Voice (www.parisvoice.com) offers superb highlights in English. Most performing arts venues also have their own websites, and many include listings as well as other helpful information in English.

The website of the Paris Tourist Office (www.parisinfo.com) has theater and music listings in English.

Le Kiosque Théâtre.

Half-price tickets for same-day theater performances are available at Le Kiosque Théâtre’s Madeleine location. See the website for information on outlets in Montparnasse and Place des Ternes. | Across from 15 pl. de la Madeleine, 8e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | www.kiosquetheatre.com | Tues.–Sat. 12:30–8, Sun. 12:30–4; closed Mon. | Station: Madeleine

THE ARTS

CLASSICAL MUSIC

Cité de la Musique.

Cité de la Musique presents a varied program of classical, experimental, and world-music concerts in a postmodern setting. | In Parc de La Villette,221 av. Jean-Jaurès, 19e, La Villette | 01–44–84–44–84 | www.citedelamusique.fr | Station: Porte de Pantin.

IRCAM.

IRCAM organizes contemporary and classical music concerts, as well as dance and other modern art performances, in its own theater and at the Centre Pompidou next door. Tickets start at only €14. | 1 pl. Igor-Stravinsky, 4e, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 01–44–78–48–43 | www.ircam.fr | Station: Châtelet, Les Halles, Hôtel de Ville.

Fodor’s Choice | Salle Cortot.

Salle Cortot is an acoustic jewel built by Auguste Perret in 1918. At the time he promised to construct “a hall that sounds like a Stradivarious.” Jazz and classical concerts are held here. TIP Free student recitals are offered at 12:30 on Tuesday and Thursday from October to April. | 78 rue Cardinet, 17e, Parc Monceau | 01–47–63–47–48 | www.ecolenormalecortot.com | Station: Malesherbes.

Salle Pleyel.

Salle Pleyel’s packed concert calendar—covering everything from jazz to Mozart—features international stars like Lionel Hampton and directors of the New York Philharmonic and the London Symphony Orchestra, plus repeat performances by the Orchestre de Paris. | 252 rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré, 8e, Concorde | 01–42–56–13–13 | www.sallepleyel.fr | Station: Ternes.

DANCE

Centre National de la Danse.

After being sidelined by politics and budget problems for a decade, this dance center opened in a former administrative center of the Pantin suburb of Paris. The space is dedicated to supporting professional dancers, with classes, rehearsal studios, and a multimedia dance library. A regular program of performances, expositions, and conferences is also open to the public. | 1 rue Victor Hugo | Pantin | 01–41–83–98–98 | www.cnd.fr | Station: Hoche or RER: Pantin.

Théâtre de la Ville.

Théâtre de la Ville is the top spot for contemporary dance. Troupes like Anne-Teresa de Keersmaeker’s Rosas company are presented here. Book early; shows sell out quickly. | 2 pl. du Châtelet, 4e, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 01–42–74–22–77 | www.theatredelaville-paris.com | Station: Châtelet.

OPERA

Paris offers some of the best opera in the world—and thousands know it. Consequently, it’s best to plan ahead if you’d like to attend a performance of the Opéra National de Paris at its two homes, the Opéra de la Bastille and the Opéra Garnier. For performances at either the Opéra de la Bastille or the Opéra Garnier, tickets range from €5 (for standing room at Opéra Bastille only) to €200 and generally go on sale at the box office a month before shows, earlier by phone and online. The opera season usually runs September through July (with each opera given a minirun of a week or two), and the box office is open Monday–Saturday 11–6:30. Last-minute discount tickets, when available, are offered 15 minutes before a performance for seniors and anyone under 28. The box office is open 11 to 6:30 pm daily.

Opéra Comique.

Opéra Comique is a gem of an opera house whose reputation was forged by its former director, enfant terrible Jérôme Savary. As well as staging operettas, the hall hosts modern dance, classical concerts, and vocal recitals. Tickets usually range from €6 to €50 and can be purchased at the theater, online, or by phone. | 5 rue Favart, 2e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 08–25–01–01–23 € 0.15 per min | www.opera-comique.com | Station: Richelieu Drouot.

Opéra de la Bastille.

Opéra de la Bastille, the mammoth ultramodern facility designed by architect Carlos Ott and built in 1989, long ago took over the role of Paris’s main opera house from the Opéra Garnier (although both operate under the same Opéra de Paris umbrella). Like the building, performances tend to be on the avant-garde side—you’re as likely to see a contemporary adaptation of La Bohème as you are to hear Kafka set to music. Tickets for Opéra de Paris productions range from €5 to €200 and generally go on sale at the box office a month before shows, earlier by phone and online. The opera season usually runs September through July, and the box office is open Monday–Saturday 11–6:30. TIP You can buy tickets (€12) for guided tours of the opera house at the box office. | Pl. de la Bastille, 12e, Bastille/Nation | 08–92–89–90–90 €0.34 per min, 01–40–01–19–70 Tours | www.operadeparis.fr | Station: Bastille.

Fodor’s Choice | Opéra Garnier.

Opéra Garnier—the magnificent, magical former haunt of the Phantom of the Opera, painter Edgar Degas, and any number of legendary opera stars—still hosts performances of the Opéra de Paris, along with a fuller calendar of dance performances (the theater is the official home of the Ballet de l’Opéra National de Paris). The grandest opera productions are usually mounted at the Opéra de la Bastille, whereas the Garnier now presents smaller-scale works such as Mozart’s La Clemenza di Tito and Così Fan Tutte. Gorgeous and intimate though the Garnier is, its tiara-shape theater means that many seats have limited visibility, so it’s best to ask specifically what the sight lines are when booking (partial view in French is visibilité partielle. TIP The cheaper seats are often those with partial views. Seats generally go on sale at the box office a month before any given show, earlier by phone and online; you must appear in person to buy the cheapest tickets. Last-minute discount tickets, if available, are offered 15 minutes prior to a performance for senior citizens and anyone under 28. The box office is open 10–4:30 daily (until 5:30 mid-July through August), but you should get in line up to two hours in advance. Venue visits (€10) and guided tours in English (€12.50) are available and can be reserved online; see the website for details. | Pl. de l’Opéra, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 08–92–89–90–90 €0.34 per min | www.operadeparis.fr | Station: Opéra.

Théâtre du Châtelet.

Also known as Théâtre Musical de Paris, this venue stages some of the finest opera productions in the city and regularly attracts international divas like Cecilia Bartoli and Anne-Sofie von Otter. It also hosts classical concerts, dance performances, Broadway musicals, and the occasional play. | Pl. du Châtelet, 1er, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 01–40–28–28–40 | www.chatelet-theatre.com | Station: Châtelet.

THEATER

A number of theaters line the Grands Boulevards between Opéra and République, but there’s no Paris equivalent of Broadway or the West End. Shows are mostly in French. English-language theater groups playing in venues throughout Paris include the International Players (www.internationalplayers.co.uk). Broadway-scale singing-and-dancing musicals are generally staged at either the Palais des Sports or the Palais des Congrès.

Fodor’s Choice | Comédie Française.

Comédie Française, founded in 1680, is the most hallowed institution in French theater. It specializes in splendid classical French plays by the likes of Racine, Molière, and Marivaux. TIP Buy tickets at the box office, by telephone, or online. If the theater is sold out, the Salle Richelieu offers steeply discounted last-minute tickets an hour before the performance. | Salle Richelieu, Pl. Colette, 1er, Louvre | 08–25–10–16–80 €0.15 per min | www.comedie-francaise.fr | Station: Palais-Royal–Musée du Louvre

Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord.

Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord is the wonderfully atmospheric, slightly decrepit home of English director Peter Brook, who regularly delights with his quirky experimental productions in French and, sometimes, English. | 37 bis, bd. de la Chapelle, 10e, Stalingrad/La Chapelle | 01–46–07–34–50 | www.bouffesdunord.com | Station: La Chapelle.

Théâtre du Palais-Royal.

Théâtre du Palais-Royal is a sumptuous 750-seat, Italian-style theater bedecked in gold and purple. Located in the former residence of Cardinal Richelieu, it stages comedies, adaptations of American productions (like The Vagina Monologues), and children’s theater. | 38 rue Montpensier, 1er, Louvre | 01–42–97–40–00 | theatrepalaisroyal.com | Station: Palais-Royal.

NIGHTLIFE

If you prefer clinking drinks with models and celebrities, check out the Champs-Élysées area, but be prepared to shell out beaucoup bucks and stare down surly bouncers. Easygoing, bohemian-chic revelers can be found in the northeastern districts like Canal St-Martin and Belleville, while students tend to pour into the Bastille, St-Germain-des-Prés, and the Quartier Latin. Grands Boulevards and rue Montorgueil, just north of Les Halles, is party central for young professionals and the fashion crowd, and the Pigalle and Montmartre areas are always hopping with plenty of theaters, cabarets, bars, and concert venues. Warmer months draw the adventurous to floating clubs and bars, moored along the Seine from Bercy to the Eiffel Tower.

CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

Bars

Le Bar at George V.

An ultraluxe, clubby hideaway in the Four Seasons Hotel, Le Bar at George V is perfect for star-gazing from the plush wine-red armchairs, cognac in hand. Its charm still lures the glitterati, especially during fashion weeks. Be sure to notice the hotel’s signature—and stunning—flower arrangements. | 31 av. George V, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–49–52–70–00 | www.fourseasons.com/paris/dining/lounges/le_bar | Station: George V.

Pershing Hall.

Pershing Hall has an überstylish lounge with muted colors and minimalist lines, plus an enormous “vertical garden” in the simply stunning indoor courtyard. The chic ambience and hip lounge music make this a popular neighborhood nightspot; starting at 10 pm there’s a DJ. TIP Try the signature Lalique cocktail—it comes in an actual Lalique crystal glass. | 49 rue Pierre Charron, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–58–36–58–00 | www.pershinghall.com | Station: George V.

Cabarets

Fodor’s Choice | Crazy Horse.

This world-renowned cabaret has elevated the striptease to an art form. Founded in 1951, it’s famous for gorgeous dancers and naughty routines characterized by lots of humor and very little clothing. What garments there are have been dazzlingly designed by the likes of Louboutin and Alaïa and shed by top divas (including Dita von Teese). | 12 av. George V, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–47–23–32–32 | www.lecrazyhorseparis.com | Station: Alma-Marceau.

Lido.

The glamorous supercalifragilisticexpialidelicious Blubell Girls (picture feathers, spangles, boas, and lots of skin) are the stars here. Lido owners claim that no show this side of Vegas rivals theirs for special effects. | 116 bis, av. des Champs-Élysées, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–40–76–56–10 | www.lido.fr | Station: George V.

AROUND THE LOUVRE

Bars

Fodor’s Choice | Ballroom du Beef Club.

Unmarked black door, basement setting, pressed tin ceilings, atmospheric lighting—did anyone say speakeasy? All this and luscious concoctions draw a sophisticated crowd that appreciates the extra touches that make this cocktail bar a standout. | 58 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau, 1e, Les Halles | 09–54–37–13–65 | Station: Les Halles, Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre.

Bar 8.

Since this monolithic marble bar at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel opened its doors, it has been the “in” game in town. There’s an extensive champagne menu, and the terrace is especially busy during fashion weeks. | 251 rue Saint-Honoré, 1e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–70–98–78–88 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Station: Concorde, Tuileries.

Experimental Cocktail Club.

Fashioned as a speakeasy on a tiny brick-paved street, the Experimental Cocktail Club seems like it should be lighted by gas lamps. The show is all about the alcool; colorful, innovative cocktails like the Lemon Drop are mixed with aplomb by friendly (and attractive) bartenders. By 11 pm it’s packed with a diverse mix of locals, professionals, and fashionistas, who occasionally dress up like characters from a Toulouse-Lautrec painting on special costume nights. | 37 rue Saint-Sauveur, 2e, Les Halles | 01–45–08–88–09 | Station: Réamur-Sébastopol.

The Hemingway Bar & the Ritz Bar.

Literature lovers, cocktail connoisseurs and other drink-swilling devotees drew a collective sigh when the iconic Hemingway Bar & the Ritz Bar were shuttered—along with the rest of the Ritz—when the hotel closed for a top-to-bottom makeover in 2012. It’s expected that libations will started being poured again in late 2014 or early 2015. Watch for the big reveal: this is one of the most hotly anticipated facelifts in Paris. | 15 pl. Vendôme, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | www.ritzparis.com | Station: Opéra.

Kong.

Kong is glorious not only for its panoramic skyline views, but for its exquisite manga-inspired decor, the top-shelf DJs for weekend dancing, and its kooky, disco-ball-and-kid-sumo-adorned bathrooms. | 1 rue du Pont-Neuf, 1er, Louvre | 01–40–39–09–00 | www.kong.fr | Station: Pont-Neuf.

THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS

Bars

Fodor’s Choice | Delaville Café.

With its huge, heated sidewalk terrace, Belle Époque mosaic-tile bar, graffitied walls, and swishy lounge, Delaville Café boasts a funky Baroque ambience. Hot Paris DJs ignite the scene Thursday to Saturday, so arrive early on weekends if you want a seat. | 34 bd. Bonne Nouvelle, 10e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–48–24–48–09 | delavillecafe.com | Station: Bonne Nouvelle, Grands Boulevards.

MONTMARTRE

Cabarets

Fodor’s Choice | Au Lapin Agile.

An authentic survivor from the 19th century, Au Lapin Agile considers itself the doyen of cabarets. Founded in 1860, it inhabits the same modest house that was a favorite subject of painter Maurice Utrillo. It became the home-away-from-home for Braque, Modigliani, Apollinaire, and Picasso—who once paid for a meal with one of his paintings, then promptly exited and painted another that he named after this place. There are no topless dancers; this is a genuine French cabaret with songs, poetry, and humor (in French) in a publike setting. Entry is €28. | 22 rue des Saules, 18e, Montmartre | 01–46–06–85–87 | www.au-lapin-agile.com | Station: Lamarck Caulaincourt.

Michou.

The always-decked-out-in-blue owner, Michou, presents an over-the-top show here. It features tranformiste men on stage in extravagant drag, performing with high camp for a radically different cabaret experience. Dinner shows are €110 and €140, or you can watch from the bar for €40, which includes a drink. | 80 rue des Martyrs, 18e, Montmartre | 01–46–06–16–04 | michou.com | Station: Pigalle.

Moulin Rouge.

When it opened in 1889, the Moulin Rouge lured Parisians of all social stripes—including, of course, the famous Toulouse-Lautrec, who immortalized the venue and its dancers in his paintings. Although shows are no longer quite so exotic (no elephants or donkey rides for the ladies), you will still see the incomparable French cancan. It’s the highlight of what is now a classy version of a Vegas-y revue, starring 100 dancers, acrobats, ventriloquists, and contortionists, and more than 1,000 costumes. Dinner starts at 7, revues at 9 and 11 (arrive 30 minutes early). Men are expected to wear a jacket and tie. Prices range from €99 for just a revue to €210 for a luxe dinner and a show. | 82 bd. de Clichy, 18e, Montmartre | 01–53–09–82–82 | www.moulinrouge.fr | Station: Blanche.

MARAIS

Bars

Fodor’s Choice | Candelaria.

If a muscled man bars your way, just whisper the magic word: cocktail. Then traverse the tiny Mexican tacqueria (the best in Paris) through an unmarked door and into a crowded, steamy room where the tang of tequila hangs in the air. You’ve found one of Paris’s hip hideaways. | 52 rue de Saintonge, 3e, Marais | 01–42–74–41–28 | www.candelariaparis.com | Station: Filles du Calvaire.

La Perle.

La Perle is a bustling, buzzy Marais masterpiece, where straights, gays, and lesbians of all types come to mingle. The crowd makes this place interesting, not the neon lights, diner-style seats, or stripped-down décor. It continues to pack in some of the city’s fashion movers and shakers from midafternoon on. | 78 rue Vielle-du-Temple, 3e, Marais | 01–42–72–69–93 | cafelaperle.com | Station: Chemin-Vert.

EASTERN PARIS

Bars

Bar Sans Nom.

In the increasing hubbub of the Bastille, the warm, red décor of this cozy getaway exudes a sultry glow, and hip lounge music adds to the charm. A flaming Kucaracha shot will turn up the heat. | 49 rue de Lappe, 11e, Bastille | 01–48–05–59–36 | Station: Bastille.

ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS

Bars

Bar du Marché.

Bar du Marché is a local legend where waiters wearing red overalls and revolutionary “Gavroche” hats serve drinks every day of the week (they demonstrate particular zeal around happy hour). With bottles of wine at about €25, it draws a quintessential Left Bank mix of expat locals, fashion-house interns, and even some professional rugby players. Sit outside on the terrace and enjoy the prime corner location. | 75 rue de Seine, 6e, St-Germain/Buci | 01–43–26–55–15 | Station: Mabillon, Odeon.

Jane Club.

The Jane Club is tucked beneath the popular bar-resto Alcazar, in a vaulted stone cellar that was Jim Morrison’s hangout back in the ‘70s when the Whiskey-a-Go-Go was located here. It’s now a welcoming dance club with state-of-the-art sound, lighting, and guest DJs. You’ll hear vintage disco, funk, groove, and salsa (the last of these on Sunday nights, with classes that start at 3:30 pm). | 62 rue Mazarine, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–55–42–22–01 | www.janeclub.fr | Station: Odéon.

MONTPARNASSE

Bars

La Closerie des Lilas.

La Closerie’s swank “American-style” bar lets you drink in the swirling action of the adjacent restaurant and brasserie at a piano bar adorned with plaques honoring former habitués like Man Ray, Jean-Paul Sartre, Samuel Beckett, and Ernest Hemingway, who talks of “the Lilas” in A Moveable Feast. | 171 bd. du Montparnasse, 6e, Montparnasse | 01–40–51–34–50 | www.closeriedeslilas.fr | Station: Montparnasse.

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Champs-Élysées | Around the Louvre | The Grands Boulevards | Montmartre | Marais | Eastern Paris | Latin Quarter | St-Germain-des-Prés

In the most beautiful city in the world, it’s no surprise to discover that the local greengrocer displays his tomatoes as artistically as Cartier does its rubies. Window-shopping is one of this city’s greatest spectator sports; the French call it lèche-vitrine—literally, “licking the windows”—which is fitting because many of the displays look good enough to eat. Most stores, excepting department stores and flea markets, stay open until 6 or 7 pm, but many take a lunch break sometime between noon and 2 pm. Many shops traditionally close on Sunday.

CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

Beauty

Guerlain.

Guerlain has long resided at this opulent address, a fitting home for Paris’s first—and most famous—perfumer. Still the only Paris outlet for legendary perfumes like Shalimar and L’Heure Blue, it has added several new signature scents (including Myrrhe et Délires and Cuir Beluga). A perfume “fountain” allows for personalized bottles in several sizes to be filled on demand. Or, for a mere €30,000, a customized scent can be blended just for you. Also here are makeup, scented candles, and a spa featuring their much-adored skin-care line. | 68 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–45–62–52–57 | www.guerlain.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.

Children’s Clothing

Fodor’s Choice | Bonpoint.

Bonpoint is for the prince or princess in your life (royalty does shop here). Yes, prices are high, but the quality is exceptional. The mini-duds couldn’t be more stylish (or adorable) with items such as a perfect emerald-green hand-smocked silk dress, a mini leopard-print jacket, or a midnight-blue velvet suit for Little Lord Fauntleroy. | 64 av. Raymond Poincaré, 16e, Champs-Élysée | 01–47–27–60–81 | www.bonpoint.com | Station: Trocadéro | 15 rue Royale, 8e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–47–42–52–63 | Station: Madeleine.

Clothing

Fodor’s Choice | Balenciaga.

This venerable Paris fashion house was completely revamped under the brilliant Nicolas Ghesquière, whose singular vision electrified the runway world. With his abrupt departure in late 2012, American wunderkind Alexander Wang took charge. Today the young designer’s structured-yet-feminine and freshly appealing designs consistently reaffirm his stellar fashion credentials. | 10 av. George V, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–47–20–21–11 | www.balenciaga.com | Station: Alma-Marceau.

Fodor’s Choice | Céline.

Reinvigorated by Michael Kors in the late 1990s, Céline got another much-needed jolt when Phoebe Philo arrived in 2009 and began drawing raves from critics for her focused approach. Philo’s characteristically refined tailoring and minute attention to detail underlie the seeming simplicity of her styles, which veer from flowing pants and long, unstructured jackets to streamlined swing skirts and python tops. Along with the ready-to-wear, Céline’s hugely popular two-toned totes and luxurious bags are beloved by Paris’s fashion elite. | 24 rue François 1er, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–40–70–07–03 | www.celine.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.

Chanel.

Elegant, modern looks, with sex appeal and lasting value are Chanel’s stock in trade. Although the spectacular Avenue Montaigne flagship takes shoppers’ breath away, the heart of this revered fashion house—now helmed by Karl Lagerfeld—is still the boutique at 31 rue Cambon, where Chanel once perched high up on the mirrored staircase watching audience reactions to her collection debuts. Great investments include all of Coco’s favorites: the perfectly tailored suit, a lean soigné dress, or a quilted bag with a gold chain. | 42 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–47–23–74–12 | www.chanel.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.

Fodor’s Choice | Christian Dior.

Raf Simons’s back-to-glamorous looks have revivified this legendary label. Since taking the helm in 2012, following John Galliano’s inglorious fall from grace, Simons has taken an architectural approach to ready-to-wear, playing with volume and contrasting geometric forms with fluid, dimensional fabrics (sometimes pierced or transparent). His meticulously styled clothes and steadfast vision have consistently elated the fashion press. | 30 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–40–73–73–73 | www.dior.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.

Jean-Paul Gaultier.

Jean-Paul Gaultier first made headlines by engineering that celebrated corset with the ironic iconic breasts for Madonna but now sends fashion editors into ecstasies with his sumptuous haute-couture creations. Designer Philippe Starck spun an Alice in Wonderland fantasy for the boutique, with quilted cream walls and Murano mirrors. Make no mistake, though, it’s all about the clothes. | 44 av. George V, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–44–43–00–44 | www.jeanpaulgaultier.com | Station: George V.

Shoes, Handbags, and Leather Goods

Fodor’s Choice | Louis Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton has spawned a voracious fan base from Texas to Tokyo with its mix of classic leather goods and saucy revamped versions orchestrated by Marc Jacobs. Jacobs’s collaborations with the likes of Japanese artist Takashi Murakami and, more recently, Yayoi Kusama have become instant collectibles. and knockoffables. With Jacobs’s departure in late 2013, all eyes are on this jewel in the luxury giant LVMH’s crown. | 101 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01–53–57–52–00 | www.louisvuitton.com | Station: George V.

Best Paris Shopping Streets

Paris’s legendary shopping destinations draw people from the world over, but perhaps a deeper allure lies in lesser-known attractions: the city harbors scores of hidden neighborhoods and shopping streets—some well traveled, others just emerging. Each carries its own distinct style that reflects the character of the particular quarter. Here are a few of Paris’s most satisfying and très branché (very trendy) enclaves.

Rue Keller, Rue Charonne (11e). These streets are a haven for young clothing designers. Stylish housewares, jewelry, and art galleries augment the appeal. Start at the end of Rue Keller where it intersects with Rue de la Roquette: walk the length of this short street, then make a right onto Rue Charonne and meander all the way to Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine.

Rue Oberkampf (11e). At the outer edge of the Marais, this street is well known among youthful fashionistas for its eclectic atmosphere and bohemian flavor. High-end jewelry and of-the-minute boutiques are clustered amid stylish wine bars and comfy cafés.

Rue des Abbesses, Rue des Martyrs (18e and 9e). In the shadow of lofty Sacré-Coeur, the Rue des Abbesses is studded with shops—from vintage jewelry and unique clothing to antiques and upscale gardening. Turn onto the Rue des Martyrs and discover a burgeoning scene, with hot boutiques scattered among inviting cafés, and superb gourmet shops.

Rues Étienne Marcel, du Jour, du Louvre, and Montmartre (2e). Just around the corner from teeming Les Halles, this area is jam-packed with big names (Yohji Yamamoto, Agnès b, Barbara Bui), but it also boasts a multitude of smaller boutiques (Madame à Paris, Shine, Gas by Marie) popular with hip young Parisians.

Rue du Bac (7e). After browsing at Le Bon Marché turn the corner at the Grand Epicerie and stroll down this most bountiful of shopping streets. Old and well established, it’s where the Paris beau monde finds everything from elegant linens and home furnishings to any item of apparel a grown-up or child could possibly want.

Rue Vavin (6e). One of Paris’s epicenters for outfitting those hopelessly chic Parisian children, this street is lined with boutiques for tots. If you have the kids in tow, follow up with a pony ride at the Luxembourg Gardens (weekends and Wednesday afternoon only). Jewelry stores, clothing stores, and J.P. Hevin (one of Paris’s top chocolatiers) give adults plenty to love, too.

Rue Pont Louis Philippe (4e). Known for a plethora of elegant paper and stationery shops, the street also has boutiques selling antiques, musical instruments, artisan jewelry, and classy clothing. It’s a great spot for window-shopping en route from the Marais to the Ile St-Louis.

Rue Francois Miron (from St-Paul métro to Place St-Gervais, 4e). Many overlook this lovely street at the Marais’s Seine-side fringes, but there’s plenty to make a wander worthwhile. Parisians in the know head here for spices, top-notch designs for the home, antiques, jewelry, pretty cafés, and much more. Bonus: Two of the oldest houses in Paris are here; they’re the medieval half-timbered ones.

AROUND THE LOUVRE

Books and Stationery

Librarie Galignani.

Dating back to 1520s Venice, this venerable bookstore opened in Paris in 1801 and was the first to specialize in English language books. Its present location, across from the Tuileries Garden on the rue de Rivoli, opened in 1856, and the wood bookshelves, creaking floors, and hushed interior provide the perfect atmosphere for perusing Paris’s best collection of contemporary and classic greats in English and French, plus a huge selection of gorgeous art books. | 224 rue de Rivoli, 1e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–60–76–07 | www.galignani.com | Station: Tuileries.

Clothing

Alberta Ferretti.

Sheer, flowing, and structured by turns, these super-feminine creations seek to enchant—and succeed. Sexy silk dresses mine past fashion tropes and make them new: the flapperish gold-beaded mini dress is a case in point. The well-loved (and more gently priced) diffusion line, Philosophy, is here, too, along with shoes, bags, and accessories. | 418 rue St-Honoré, 8e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–60–14–97 | www.albertaferretti.com | Station: Madeleine/Concorde.

Fodor’s Choice | Chantal Thomass.

The legendary lingerie diva is back with a Pillow Talk–meets–Louis XIV–inspired boutique. This is French naughtiness at its best, striking the perfect balance between playful and seductive. Sheer silk negligees edged in Chantilly lace and lascivious bra-and-corset sets punctuate the signature line. | 211 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–60–40–56 | www.chantalthomass.fr | Station: Tuileries.

Colette.

This is the place for ridiculously cool fashion. So the staff barely deigns to make eye contact—who cares! There are ultramodern trinkets and trifles of all kinds: from Lego-link alarm clocks to snappy iPad cases, the latest out-there CDs, and tongue-in-chic sportswear and that’s just on the ground floor. The first floor has wearable wares from every internationally known and unknown designer with street cred. The basement has a water bar (because that’s what models eat), plus a small restaurant that’s good for a quick bite. | 213 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–55–35–33–90 | www.colette.fr | Station: Tuileries.

Vanessa Bruno.

Vanessa Bruno stirs up a new brew of feminine dressing: some androgynous pieces (skinny pants) plus delicacy (filmy tops) with a dash of whimsy (lace insets). Separates are coveted for their sleek styling, gorgeous colors, and unerring sexiness. Wardrobe staples include perfectly proportioned cotton tops and sophisticated dresses. Athé, the diffusion line, flies off the racks, so if you see something you love, grab it. Bruno’s shoes and accessories are the cherry on the cake: her ultrapopular sequin-striped totes inspired an army of knockoffs. | 12 rue de Castiglione, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–61–44–60 | www.vanessabruno.com | Station: Pyramides.

Shoes, Handbags, and Leather Goods

Goyard.

These colorful totes are the choice of royals, blue bloods, and the like (clients have included Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Gregory Peck, and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor). Parisians swear by their durability and longevity; they’re copious enough for a mile-long baguette, and durable enough for a magnum of champagne. What’s more, they easily transition into ultrachic beach or diaper bags. | 233 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–60–57–04 | www.goyard.com | Station: Tuileries.

Hermès.

The go-to for those who prefer their logo discrete yet still crave instant recognition, Hermès was established as a saddlery in 1837; then went on to create the eternally chic Kelly (named for Grace Kelly) and Birkin (named for Jane Birkin) handbags. The silk scarves are legendary for their rich colors and intricate designs, which change yearly. Other accessories are also extremely covetable: enamel bracelets, dashing silk-twill ties, and small leather goods. During semiannual sales, in January and July, prices are slashed up to 50%, and the crowds line up for blocks. | 24 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–40–17–47–17 | www.hermes.com | Station: Concorde.

Maison Fabre.

Until you’ve eased into an exquisite pair of gloves handcrafted by Fabre, you probably haven’t experienced the sensation of having a second skin far superior to your own. Founded in 1924, this is one of Paris’s historic gantiers. Styles range from classic to haute: picture elbow-length croc leather, coyote-fur mittens, and peccary driving gloves. | 128–129 Galerie de Valois, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–60–75–88 | www.maisonfabre.com | Station: Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre.

Roger Vivier.

Known for decades for his Pilgrim-buckle shoes and inventive heels, Roger Vivier’s name is being resurrected through the creativity of über-Parisienne Inès de la Fressange and the expertise of shoe designer Bruno Frisoni. The results are easily some of the best shoes in town: leather boots that mold to the calf perfectly, towering rhinestone-encrusted or feathered platforms for evening, and vertiginous crocodile pumps. | 29 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–53–43–00–85 | www.rogervivier.com | Station: Concorde.

THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS

Clothing

Charvet.

Charvet is the Parisian equivalent of a Savile Row tailor. It’s a conservative, aristocratic institution famed for made-to-measure shirts, exquisite ties, and accessories; for garbing John F. Kennedy, Charles de Gaulle, and the Duke of Windsor; and for its regal address. Although the exquisite silk ties, in hundreds of colors and patterns, and custom-made shirts for men are the biggest draw, refined pieces for women and girls, as well as adorable miniatures for boys, round out the collection. | 28 pl. Vendôme, 1er, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–42–60–30–70 | www.charvet.com | Station: Opéra.

Food and Wine

À la Mère de Famille.

This enchanting shop is well versed in French regional specialties as well as old-fashioned bonbons, sugar candy, and more. | 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–47–70–83–69 | www.lameredefamille.com | Station: Cadet.

MALLS AND SHOPPING CENTERS

Fodor’s Choice | Galerie Vivienne.

Galerie Vivienne, between the Bourse and the Palais-Royal, is home to a range of interesting luxury shops as well as a lovely tearoom (A Priori Thé) and a terrific wineshop (Cave Legrand Filles et Fils). Don’t leave without checking out the Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique at 6 rue Vivienne. | 4 rue des Petits-Champs, 2e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | www.galerie-vivienne.com | Station: Bourse.

MONTMARTRE

MARKETS

Fodor’s Choice | Marché aux Puces St-Ouen (Clignancourt).

This picturesque market on Paris’s northern boundary—open Saturday to Monday, from 9 to 6—still attracts crowds, but its once-unbeatable prices are now a relic. Packed with antiques booths and brocante stalls, the century-old, miles-long labyrinth has been undergoing a mild renaissance, with new vintage shops drawing buzz from fashion fans and new destination eateries (including Philippe Starck’s hugely chic Ma Cocotte) attracting a hip Paris contingent. That means you can arrive early to pick up the best loot, then linger over an excellent meal or apèro. Be warned—if there’s one place in Paris where you need to know how to bargain, this is it! TIP If you’re arriving by métro, walk under the overpass and take the first left at the Rue de Rosiers to reach the center of the market. Note that stands selling dodgy odds and ends (think designer knockoffs and questionable gadgets) set up around the overpass. These blocks are crowded and gritty; be careful with your valuables. | 18e, Montmartre | www.marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com | Station: Porte de Clignancourt.

MARAIS

Books

Comptoir de l’Image.

This is where designers John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, and Emanuel Ungaro stock up on old copies of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and The Face. You’ll also find trendy magazines like Dutch, Purple, and Spoon; designer catalogs from the past; and rare photo books. | 44 rue de Sévigné, 3e, Marais | 01–42–72–03–92 | Station: St-Paul.

Clothing

Fodor’s Choice | Azzedine Alaïa.

Darling of the fashion set, thanks to his perfectly proportioned “king of cling” dresses, Alaïa is considered a master at his game. You don’t have to be under 20 to look good in his garments; Tina Turner wears them well, as does every other beautiful woman with the courage and the curves. His boutique/workshop/apartment is covered with artwork by Julian Schnabel and is not the kind of place you casually wander into out of curiosity: the sales staff immediately makes you feel awkward in that distinctive Parisian way. TIP Think $3,500 is too much for a dress? The Alaïa stock store (same building, different entrance) takes 50% off last season’s styles, samples, and gently worn catwalk items. Access it at 18 rue de la Verrerie. | 7 rue de Moussy, 4e, Marais | 01–42–72–19–19 | www.alaia.fr | Station: Hôtel de Ville.

COS.

COS—which stands for Collection of Style—is the H&M group’s answer to fashion sophisticates, who flock here in droves for high-concept, minimalist design with serious attention to quality tailoring and fabrics at a reasonable price. Classic accessories and shoes look more expensive than they are. | 4 rue des Rosiers, 4e, Marais | 01–44–54–37–70 | www.cosstores.com | Station: St-Paul.

FrenchTrotters.

The flagship store features an understated collection of contemporary French-made classic clothes and accessories for men and women that emphasize quality fabrics, style, and cut over trendiness. You’ll also find a handpicked collection of exclusive collaborations with cutting-edge French brands (like sleek leather-and-suede booties by Avril Gau for FrenchTrotters), as well as FrenchTrotters namesake label, and a limited selection of housewares for chic Parisian apartments. | 128 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e, Marais | 01–44–61–00–14 | www.frenchtrotters.fr | Station: Saint-Sébastien Froissart, Filles du Calvaire.

L’Eclaireur.

This rue de Sevigné boutique is Paris’s touchstone for edgy, up-to-the-second styles. L’Eclaireur’s knack for uncovering new talent and championing established visionaries is legendary—no surprise after 30 years in the business. Hard-to-find geniuses, like leather wizard Isaac Sellam and British prodigy Paul Harnden, cohabit with luxe labels such as Ann Demeulemeester, Haider Ackermann, and Lanvin. TIP There’s a second Marais outpost at 12 rue Mahler. | 40 rue de Sevigné, 3e, Marais | 01–48–87–10–22 | www.leclaireur.com | Station: St-Paul.

Fodor’s Choice | Ra.

Straight out of fashion-forward Antwerp, the high-concept Ra boutique is part fashion laboratory part symbolist salon, where the line between outfit and costume blur in the most delightful ways. Mainstays, like Juun J, Rodart, and Gareth Pugh, mingle with an ever-changing roster of avant-garde newcomers—Meadham Kirchhoff, Rad Hourani, and shoe designer Iris Van Herpen among them—who like to shake things up with whimsy, humor, and more than a little madness. Expect outrageous accessories and a choice selection of vintage, too. | 14 rue de la Corderie, 3e, Marais | 01–42–74–04–07 | www.ra13.be | Station: Republique.

EASTERN PARIS

Clothing

Isabel Marant.

This rising design star is a honeypot of bohemian rock-star style. Her separates skim the body without constricting: layered miniskirts, loose peek-a-boo sweaters ready to slip from a shoulder, and super fox-fur jackets in lurid colors. Look for the secondary line, Étoile, for a less expensive take. | 16 rue de Charonne, 11e, Bastille/Nation | 01–49–29–71–55 | www.isabelmarant.com | Station: Ledru-Rollin.

Shoes, Handbags, and Leather Goods

Fodor’s Choice | Philippe Roucou.

By turns bold and dainty, these exquisitely constructed vintage-inspired bags are some of the yummiest in Paris. A python-and-calf tote is demure in storm gray: in ice blue it’s a statement. Day bags in myriad shapes and sizes are always stylish; for evening, ingenious faceted clutches come in a range of colors and skins, with a sexy signature version chained to a python wristband. Other leather accessories (like iPad cases and wallets) and whimsical Polaroid-print silk scarves are also available. | 30 rue de Charonne, 11e, Bastille | 01–49–29–97–35 | www.philipperoucou.com | Station: Ledru-Rollin, Bastille.

LATIN QUARTER

Books

Shakespeare & Company.

This sentimental Rive Gauche favorite is named after the bookstore whose American owner, Sylvia Beach, first published James Joyce’s Ulysses. Nowadays it specializes in expat literature. Although the eccentric and beloved owner, George Whitman, passed away in 2011, his daughter Sylvia has taken up the torch. You can still count on a couple of characters lurking in the stacks, a sometimes spacey staff, the latest titles from British presses, and hidden secondhand treasures in the odd corners and crannies. Poets give readings upstairs on Monday at 8 pm; there is also music and special workshops. | 37 rue de la Bûcherie, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01–43–25–40–93 | shakespeareandcompany.com | Station: St-Michel.

Jewelry and Accessories

Peggy Kingg.

The minimalist accessories designed by former architect Peggy Huynh Kinh include understated totes, shoulder bags, wallets, and belts in the highest-quality leather, as well as a line of picnic bags and elegant office-oriented pieces. Look for them at her streamlined boutique—and recently re-branded—Peggy Kingg boutique. | 9 rue Coëtlogon, 6e, Latin Quarter | 01–42–84–83–84 | Station: St-Sulpice.

ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS

Antiques and Collectibles

Fodor’s Choice | Carré Rive Gauche.

Carré Rive Gauche is where you’ll unearth museum-quality pieces. Head to the streets between Rue du Bac, Rue de l’Université, Rue de Lille, and Rue des Sts-Pères to find more than 100 associated shops, marked with a small, blue square banner on their storefronts. | Between St-Germain-des-Prés and Musée d’Orsay, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | www.carrerivegauche.com | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés, Rue du Bac.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Ile-de-France

The Western Ile-de-France

The Eastern Ile-de-France

Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner

Updated by Jennifer Ditsler-Ladonne

Just what is it that makes the Ile-de-France so attractive, so comfortingly familiar? Is it its proximity to the great city of Paris—or perhaps that it’s so far removed?

Had there not been the world-class cultural hub of Paris nearby, would Monet have retreated to his Japanese gardens at Giverny? Or Paul Cézanne and Van Gogh to bucolic Auvers? Kings and courtiers to the game-rich forests of Rambouillet? Would Napoléon have truly settled at Malmaison and then abdicated at the palace of Fontainebleau? Would abbeys and cathedrals have sprung skyward in Chartres and Senlis?

If you had asked Louis XIV, he wouldn’t have minced his words: the city of Paris—yawn—was simply démodée—out of fashion. In the 17th century the new power base was going to be Versailles, once a tiny village in the heart of the Ile-de-France, now the site of a gigantic château from which the Sun King’s rays could radiate, unfettered by rebellious rabble and European arrivistes. Of course, later heirs kept the lines open and restored the grandiose palace as the governmental hub it was meant to be—and commuted to Paris, well before the high-speed RER.

That, indeed, is the dream of most Parisians today: to have a foot in both worlds. Paris may be small as capital cities go, with slightly fewer than 2 million inhabitants, but the Ile-de-France, the region around Paris, contains more than 10 million people—a sixth of France’s entire population. That’s why on closer inspection the once rustic villages of the Ile-de-France reveal cosseted gardens, stylishly gentrified cottages, and extraordinary country restaurants no peasant farmer could afford to frequent.

The nation’s heartland isn’t really an île (island), of course. The green-forested buffer zone that enfolds Paris is only vaguely surrounded by the three rivers that meander through its periphery. But it nevertheless offers a rich and varied sampling of everything you expect from France—grand cathedrals, painters’ villages, lavish palaces, plus the bubble gum–pink turrets of Disneyland Paris—all delightfully located within easy shooting distance of the capital.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Louis XIV’s Versailles: Famed as glorious testimony to the Sun King’s megalomania, this is the world’s most over-the-top palace and nature-tamed park.

Creamy Chantilly: Stately château, stellar art collection, fabulous forest, palatial stables … all within the same square mile.

Van Gogh in Auvers: The artist spent his last, manically productive three months here—you can see where he painted, where he got drunk, where he shot himself, and where he remains.

Chartres Cathedral: A pinnacle of Gothic achievement, this 13th-century masterpiece has peerless stained glass and a hilltop silhouette visible for miles around.

Monet’s Water Lilies: Come to Giverny to see his lily pond—a half-acre 3-D “Monet”—then peek around his charming home and stroll the time-warped streets to the exceptional Musée des Impressionnismes.

GETTING ORIENTED

The “island of France” is the poetic name for the area surrounding Paris and taking in the valleys of three rivers: the Seine, the Marne, and the Oise. Ever since the days of Julius Caesar, this has been the economic, political, and religious hub of France and, consequently, no other region boasts such a wealth of great buildings, from Chartres to Fontainebleau and Versailles. Though small, it is so rich in treasures that a whole day of fascinating exploration may take you no more than 60 km (35 miles) from the capital.

WHAT’S WHERE

The Western Ile-de-France: Versailles to Auvers-sur-Oise. If you want to dig into the past, the Ile-de-France’s richest frontier is the western half of the 60-km (35-mile) circle that rings Paris. The towns are charming and the sylvan woods are full of châteaux—including the world’s grandest one, Château de Versailles. Haunt of Louis XIV, Madame de Pompadour, and Marie-Antoinette, it is a monument to splendidly wretched excess and once home to 20,000 courtiers and servants. More spiritual concerns are embodied in Chartres Cathedral, a soaring pinnacle of Gothic architecture. Nineteen kilometers (30 miles) north are landscapes of lasting impressions: Giverny and Auvers, immortalized by Monet and Van Gogh, respectively.

The Eastern Ile-de-France: Chantilly to Fontainebleau. By traveling an eastward arc through the remainder of the Ile you can savor the icing on the cake. Begin with Chantilly, an opulent château noted for its royal stables, stunning gardens, and a top-notch art collection that is rivaled only by the Louvre’s. Northward lie medieval Senlis and the storybook castle of Pierrefonds. Heading east, you’ll hit Disneyland Paris where Mickey Mouse and his animated friends get a French makeover. Continuing south, two more magnificent châteaux—Vaux-le-Vicomte and Fontainebleau—were built for some of France’s most pampered monarchs and ministers.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

Spring and fall are the optimal times to come. The Ile’s rightly renowned gardens look their best in the former, and its extensive forests are particularly beautiful in the latter. From May through June or September through early October, you can still take advantage of memorable warm-weather offerings—such as a candlelight visit to Vaux-le-Vicomte or an evening of music, dancing, and fireworks at Versailles—without having to contend with the high summer heat or the crowds that pack places like Disneyland Paris or Monet’s Giverny, especially on weekends.

Be aware when making your travel plans that some places are closed one or two days a week. The château of Versailles is closed Monday (the gardens remain open), and the châteaux of Chantilly and Fontainebleau are closed Tuesday. In fact, as a rule, even well-touristed towns make their fermeture hebdomadaire (weekly closing) on Monday or Tuesday. At these times museums, shops, and markets may be shuttered—call ahead if in doubt. During the winter months, some spots shut completely (Vaux-le-Vicomte, for one, is closed from mid-November to mid-March). So it’s always best to check websites or phone ahead before venturing out in the off-season.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

A great advantage to exploring this region is that all its major monuments are within a half-day’s drive from Paris, or less if you take the trains that run to many of the towns. The catch is that most of those rail lines connect Ile communities with Paris, not, in general, with neighboring towns of the region. Thus, it may be easier to plan on “touring” the Ile in a series of side trips from Paris, rather than expecting to travel through it in clockwise fashion (which, of course, can be easily done if you have a car).

Threading the western half of the Ile, the first tour heads southwest from Paris to Versailles and Chartres, turns northwest along the Seine to Monet’s Giverny, and returns to Paris after visiting Vincent van Gogh’s Auvers. Exploring the eastern half of the Ile, the second tour picks up east of the Oise Valley in glamorous Chantilly, then detours north to Pierrefonds, and finishes up southward by heading to Disneyland Paris, Vaux-le-Vicomte, and Fontainebleau.

For a stimulating mix of pomp, nature, and spirituality, we suggest your three priorities should be Versailles, Giverny, and Chartres.

EXPERIENCING IMPRESSIONISM

Paris’s Musée d’Orsay may have some of the most fabled Monet and Van Gogh paintings in the world, but the Ile-de-France has something (almost) better—the actual landscapes that were rendered into masterpieces by the brushes of many great Impressionist and Postimpressionist artists. At Giverny, Claude Monet’s house and garden are a moving visual link to his finest daubs—its famous lily-pond garden gave rise to his legendary water-lilies series (some historians feel it was the other way around). Here, too, is the impressive Musée des Impressionnismes.

In Auvers-sur-Oise, Vincent van Gogh had a final burst of creativity before ending his life; the famous wheat field where he was attacked by crows and painted his last work is just outside town. Back then, they called him Fou-Roux (mad redhead) and derided his art; now the townspeople here love to pay tribute to the man who helped make their village famous. André Derain lived in Chambourcy, Camille Pissarro in Pontoise, and Alfred Sisley in Moret-sur-Loing—all were inspired by the silvery sunlight that tumbles over these hills and towns.

Earlier, Rousseau, Millet, and Corot paved the way for Impressionism with their penchant for outdoor landscape painting in the village of Barbizon, still surrounded by its romantic, quietly dramatic forest. A trip to any of these towns will provide lasting impressions.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Air Travel

Proximity to Paris means that the Ile-de-France is well served by both international and intra-continental flights. Charles de Gaulle Airport, commonly known as Roissy, is 25 km (16 miles) northeast of the capital; Orly Airport is 16 km (10 miles) south.

Air Travel Information

Charles de Gaulle/Roissy and Orly Airports. | 3950 €0.34 per min | www.aeroportsdeparis.fr.

Bus Travel

Although many of the major sights have rail lines connecting them directly to Paris, the lesser destinations pose more of a problem and require taking a local bus run by the SNCF from the nearest train station (gare). This will be the case if you’re going onward to Senlis from the Chantilly Gare, to Fontainebleau and Barbizon from the Avon Gare, to Vaux-le-Vicomte from the Melun Gare, or to Giverny from the Vernon Gare.

Car Travel

A13 links Paris (from the Porte d’Auteuil) to Versailles. You can get to Chartres on A10 from Paris (Porte d’Orléans). For Fontainebleau take A6 from Paris (Porte d’Orléans). For a slower, more scenic route through the Forest of Sénart and the northern part of the Forest of Fontainebleau, take N6 from Paris (Porte de Charenton) via Melun. A4 runs from Paris (Porte de Bercy) to Disneyland. Although a comprehensive rail network ensures that most towns in the Ile-de-France qualify as comfortable day trips from Paris, the only way to crisscross the region without returning to the capital is by car. There’s no shortage of expressways or fast highways. However, you should be prepared for delays close to Paris, especially during the morning and evening rush hours.

Train Travel

Departing from Paris, it’s easy to reach key locales in this region by rail because you can take advantage of the SNCF’s main-line and Transilien networks, as well as RER routes, which are part of Paris’s comprehensive RATP public transit system. Chartres and Chantilly, for example, are served by both main-line and Transilien trains; those bound for Chartres leave from Gare Montparnasse (50–70 minutes), while those going to Chantilly leave from Gare du Nord (25-30 minutes). Versailles is best accessed via the RER-C line, which gets you within a five-minute walk of the château (45 minutes); and the RER-A line deposits you 100 yards from the entrance to Disneyland (40 minutes). Note that the Parisian station you start from is typically determined by the direction you’re heading in.

Train Information

RATP. | 3246 €0.34 per min | www.ratp.fr.

SNCF. | 3635 €0.34 per min | www.sncf.com.

Transilien. | 3658 €0.23 per min | www.transilien.com.

RESTAURANTS

The Ile-de-France’s fanciest restaurants can be just as pricey as their Parisian counterparts. Close to the Channel for fresh fish, lush Normandy for beef and dairy products, and the rich agricultural regions of Picardy and the Beauce, Ile-de-France chefs have all the ingredients they could wish for, and shop for the freshest produce early each morning at the huge food market at Rungis, 18 km (10 miles) south of the capital. Traditional “local delicacies”—lamb stew, pâté de Pantin (pastry filled with meat), or pig’s trotters—tend to be obsolete, though creamy Brie, made locally in Meaux and Coulommiers, remains queen of the cheese board.

HOTELS

In summer, hotel rooms are at a premium, and making reservations is essential; almost all accommodations in the swankier towns—Versailles, Rambouillet, and Fontainebleau—are on the costly side. Take nothing for granted; picturesque Senlis, for instance, does not have a single hotel in its historic downtown area. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Special forfait tickets, combining travel and admission, are available for several regional tourist destinations (including Versailles, Fontainebleau, and Auvers-sur-Oise). For general information on the area, check the website of Espace du Tourisme d’Ile-de-France (www.visitparisregion.com | Wed.–Mon. 10–7), or visit one of its kiosks; you’ll find them at the Charles de Gaulle airport, Orly airport, Versailles, and Disneyland. Further information on Disneyland can be obtained from the Disneyland Paris reservations office.

TOUR OPTIONS

Alliance Autos.

Bilingual guides from Alliance Autos give private tours of the Paris area in a luxury car or minibus; outings for 3–8 people last a minimum of four hours and cost about €80 an hour. | 149 rue de Charonne | Paris | 01–55–25–23–23 | www.alliance-limousine.com.

Euroscope.

You can sign on for full-day minibus trips from Paris to Versailles (€155), Chartres (€105), and Giverny (€99), or pair up places such as Fontainebleau and Barbizon (€94). Check the Euroscope website for all the options. | 46 rue de Provence | Paris | 01–56–03–56–81 | www.euroscope.fr.

Pariscityvision.

Guided coach excursions to Giverny, Versailles, Vaux le Vicomte, and Fontainebleau—plus multiple destination combinations—can be booked through Pariscityvision (€55–€145). Some are offered year-round, but most run April through October. Half- and full-day minibus excursions for up to eight people are also available (€89–€179). | 2 rue des Pyramides | Paris | 01–44–55–60–00 | www.pariscityvision.com.

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Versailles | Dampierre | Rambouillet | Chartres | Maintenon | Thoiry | Giverny | Vernon | Pontoise | Auvers-sur-Oise | L’Isle-Adam | St-Germain-en-Laye | Rueil-Malmaison

Not only is majestic Versailles one of the most unforgettable sights in the Ile-de-France, it’s also within easy reach of Paris—40 minutes or less by either car (using the A13 expressway from Porte d’Auteuil) or RER train. This is the starting point for a visit to the western half of the Ile-de-France, anchored by holy Chartres to the south and Vincent van Gogh’s Auvers-sur-Oise to the north.

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VERSAILLES

16 km (10 miles) west of Paris via A13.

It’s hard to tell which is larger at Château de Versailles—the world-famous château that housed Louis XIV and 20,000 of his courtiers, or the mass of tour buses and visitors standing in front of it. The grandest palace in France remains one of the marvels of the world. But this edifice was not just home to the Sun King, it was also to be the new headquarters of the French government capital (from 1682 to 1789 and again from 1871 to 1879). To accompany the palace, a new city—in fact, a new capital—had to be built from scratch. Tough-thinking town planners took no prisoners, dreaming up vast mansions and avenues broader than the Champs-Élysées.

Getting Here

Versailles has three train stations, but its Rive Gauche gare—on the RER-C line from Paris, with trains departing from Austerlitz, St-Michel, Invalides, and Champ-de-Mars—provides the easiest access and puts you within a five-minute walk of the château (45 minutes, €3.45).

Visitor Information

Versailles Tourist Office. | 2 bis av. de Paris | 01–39–24–88–88 | www.versailles-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Versailles.

Today the château seems monstrously big, but it wasn’t large enough for the army of 20,000 noblemen, servants, and hangers-on who moved in with Louis. A new city—a new capital, in fact—had to be constructed from scratch to accommodate them. Tough-thinking town planners promptly dreamed up vast mansions and avenues broader than the Champs-Élysées—all in bicep-flexing baroque.

It was hardly surprising that Louis XIV’s successors rapidly felt out of sync with their architectural inheritance. Louis XV and Louis XVI preferred to rule from small retreats in the gardens, well out of the mighty château’s shadow. The two most famous of these structures are the Petit Trianon, a model of classical harmony and proportion built for Louis XV, and the Hameau, where Marie-Antoinette could play at being a shepherdess amid the ersatz rusticity of her Potemkin hamlet. The contrast between the majestic and the domesticated is an important part of Versailles’s appeal. But pomp and bombast tend to prevail, and you won’t need reminding that you’re in the world’s grandest palace—or one of France’s most popular tourist attractions. The park and gardens outside are a great place to stretch your legs while taking in details of the formal landscaping.

One of the highlights of a tour is the dazzling Galerie des Glaces (Hall of Mirrors). Lavish balls were once held here, as was a later event with much greater world impact: the signing of the Treaty of Versailles, which put an end to World War I on June 28, 1919. Grands Appartements (State Apartments) are whipped into a lather of decoration, with painted ceilings, marble walls, parquet floors, and canopy beds topped with ostrich plumes. The Petits Appartements (Private Apartments), where the royal family and friends lived, are on a more human scale, lined with 18th-century gold and white rococo boiseries. The Opéra Royal, the first oval hall in France, was designed for Louis XV and inaugurated in 1770 for the marriage of 15-year-old Louis XVI to 14-year-old Austrian archduchess Marie Antoinette. Considered the finest 18th-century opera house in Europe (with acoustics to match), it is now home to the Royal Opéra and a major venue for world-class performers. Check out the “marble” loges—they’re actually trompe l’oeil, as are the enormous pillars, whose hollow wooden interiors partly account for the hall’s fine acoustics. The solemn white-and-gold chapel was completed in 1710—the king and queen attended daily mass here seated in gilt boxes. Completed in 1701 in the Louis-XIV style, the Apartements du Roi (King’s Apartments) comprise a suite of 15 rooms set in a “U” around the east facade’s Marble Court. While the Chambre de la Reine (Queen’s Bed Chamber)—probably the most opulent bedroom in the world—was initially created for Marie Thérèse, first and only official wife of Louis XIV, to be part of the Queen’s Apartments, its latest update was made for Marie-Antoinette, and its light, frilly, and incredibly sumptuous floral-motif textiles and extravagant baldachin (with its enormous panaches of ostrich feathers) reflect the chicest style of the late 18th century. The superb Salon du Grand Couvert, antechamber to the Queen’s Apartments and the place where Louis XIV took his supper every evening at ten o’clock, recently underwent a 16-month restoration. The sumptuously painted walls and ceilings, tapestries, woodwork, and even the furniture have been returned to their original splendor, making this the only one of the queen’s private rooms that can be seen exactly as it was first decorated in the 1670s.

Despite its sprawl, the palace of Versailles can get stiflingly crowded, especially as visitors are funneled through one narrow side of most of the rooms, with the furniture and objets d’art roped off. You may be able to avoid the crowds (and lines for tours) if you arrive here at 9 am. After purchasing tickets, the main entrance is near the top of the courtyard to the right; there are different lines depending on tour, physical ability, and group status. Audioguides are available, and frequent guided tours in English visit the private royal apartments. More detailed hour-long tours explore the opera house or Marie Antoinette’s private parlors. You can go through the grandest rooms—including the Hall of Mirrors and Marie Antoinette’s stunningly opulent bedchamber—without a group tour. To figure out the system, pick up a brochure at the information office or ticket counter or visit the palace’s English website. | Pl. d’Armes | 01–30–83–78–00 | www.chateauversailles.fr | €18 general admission; €25 all-attractions pass; €10 Marie-Antoinette’s Domain; park free (weekend fountain show, €9, Apr.–Oct.). On 1st Sun. of month Nov.–Mar. all palace tours are free | Palace Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 9–6:30; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 9–5:30. Trianons Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. noon–6:30; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. noon–5:30. Garden Apr.–Oct., daily 8 am–8:30 pm; Nov.–Mar., daily 8–6. Park Apr.–Oct., daily 7am–8:30 pm; Nov.–Mar., daily 8–6.

Musée Lambinet.

Around the back of Notre-Dame, on Boulevard de la Reine (note the regimented lines of trees), are the elegant Hôtel de Neyret and the Musée Lambinet, a sumptuous mansion from 1751, with collections of paintings, weapons, fans, and porcelain (including the Madame du Barry “Rose”). A tearoom, open Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday afternoons, provides an elegant way to refresh after an intensive round of sightseeing. | 54 bd. de la Reine | 01–39–50–30–32 | www.versailles-tourisme.com | €4 | Sat.–Thurs. 2–6.

Nôtre-Dame.

If you have any energy left after exploring Louis XIV’s palace and park, a tour of Versailles—a textbook 18th-century town—offers a telling contrast between the majestic and the domestic. From the front gate of Versailles’ palace turn left onto the Rue de l’Independence-Américaine and walk over to Rue Carnot past the stately Écuries de la Reine—once the queen’s stables, now the regional law courts—to octagonal Place Hoche. Down Rue Hoche to the left is the powerful Baroque facade of Notre-Dame, built from 1684 to 1686 by Jules Hardouin-Mansart as the parish church for Louis XIV’s new town.

Place du Marché-Notre-Dame.

This lively square in the heart of the Notre- Dame neighborhood is home to the largest market in the region, far outstripping anything in Paris. Outdoors stalls offer a veritable cornucopia of fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs, and spices; meanwhile, the four historic halles (dating to the reign of Louis XV and rebuilt in 1841) brim with every gourmet delight—foie gras, fine wines, seafood, game, prepared delicacies, cheese from every corner of France—providing a sensory experience that will overwhelm even the most jaded foodie. The open-air market runs three half-days a week (Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday, 7–2), but the covered food halls are open every day except Monday, from early morning until 7:30 pm (closing is at 2 on Sunday). TIP For more shopping overload, stroll along the Passage de la Geôle: this cobbled alley, leading up to the market, is lined with antiques shops.

Avenue de Paris.

A breadth of 120 yards makes Avenue de Paris wider than the Champs-Élysées, and its buildings are just as grand and even more historic. The avenue leads down to Place d’Armes, a vast sloping plaza usually filled with tour buses. Facing the château are the Trojan-size royal stables.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Grandes Écuries (Grand Stables).

The beautiful Grandes Écuries, built in the 17th century for Louis XIV’s royal cavalry, house the Musée des Carrosses (Carriage Museum) and the Academy of Equestrian Arts. At the latter you can watch 28 white horses and their riders perform balletic feats of virtuosic skill and grace in a show directed by Bartabas, France’s foremost horse whisperer and the founder of the renowned Zingaro Equestrian Theater. Fodor’s Travel Talk Forum readers rave about it. TIP If you can’t make the show, you can still see them practicing many mornings. | Av. Rockefeller | 01–39–02–62–75 | www.acadequestre.fr | Shows €25; morning practice €12; museum €2 | Academy Feb.–Dec, daily; carriage museum Apr.–Oct., weekends only (phone for hrs).

Cathédrale St-Louis.

Turn left from the Grandes Écuries stables, cross Avenue de Sceaux and Avenue de Paris, pass the imposing chancellery on the corner, and take Rue de Satory (a cute pedestrian shopping street) to the Cathédrale St-Louis. Outside, the 18th-century seat of the Bishop of Versailles is notable for its dome and twin-tower facade; inside, the sanctuary is enriched with a fine organ and paintings. | Pl. Saint-Louis | 01–39–50–40–65 | www.cathedrale-versailles.org.

Fodor’s Choice | Potager du Roi.

The King’s Potager—a 6-acre, split-level fruit-and-vegetable garden—was created in 1683 by Jean-Baptiste de La Quintinye. Many rare heirloom species are painstakingly cultivated here by a team of gardeners. You can sample their wares or pick up a bottle of fruit juice, jam, or honey—all made from the king’s produce. TIP Perfumed “Potager du Roi” candles, sold at the delightful boutique, make a nice souvenir. | 10 rue du Maréchal Joffre | 01–39–24–62–62 | www.potager-du-roi.fr | Weekends €6.50, weekdays €4.50 | Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10–6; Jan.–Mar., Tues. and Thurs. 10–6, Sat. 10–1.

Salle du Jeu de Paume.

On June 20, 1789, members of the Third Estate—the commoner’s section of the three-part Estates General, which included nobles (First Estate) and clergy (Second Estate)—found themselves locked out of their regular meeting place by palace guards, so they convened in this tennis court instead to discuss their demands. The resulting Tennis Court Oath stated that the sovereignty of the people did not reside with the king but with the people themselves. It became the first draft of the French Constitution (based closely on the American Declaration of Independence) and was a major first step in the revolution and subsequent abolition of the monarchy. The members are depicted in a monumental painting on the court’s far wall. TIP A fascinating guided visit in English is available through the Versailles tourist office. | Rue du Jeu de Paume, Quartier Saint-Louis | 01–30–83–78–00 | Free | Tues.–Sun., 2 pm–5:45 pm.

WHERE TO EAT

Fodor’s Choice | Gordon Ramsay au Trianon.

MODERN FRENCH | Gordon Ramsay—the ebullient “bad boy of la cuisine anglaise”—has amassed a string of restaurants worldwide and maintained a consistent two stars for this one. Overseen by his longstanding London number two, Simone Zanoni, the dishes are predictably conversation-worthy: picture exemplary entrées like ravioli of langoustines and lobster cooked in a Riesling bisque with Petrossian caviar and lime consommé, or Périgord foie gras done “2 ways,” roasted with a beetroot tart and pressed with green apple and Sauternes. Desserts are marvels, too, with chocolate meringue with vanilla ice cream, candied pear, and black currant vying for top honors with the raspberry soufflé with chocolate and tarragon ice cream. The Trianon’s more casual, 60-seat Véranda restaurant is also under Ramsay’s sway, and in its black-and-white contemporary setting you can opt for his “light, modern take” on such bistro novelties as radicchio and parmesan risotto with chorizo oil or the fillet of sole in a parsley crust, cèpes, and sautéed artichokes. Teatime provides a delightful (and more reasonable) restorative for weary château-goers, with a French twist on high tea: scones, madeleines, and heavenly macaroons. | Average main: €55 | 1 bd. de la Reine | 01–30–84–55–55 | www.gordonramsay.com/grautrianon | Reservations essential | Jacket required | Closed Sun., Mon., and July 27–Aug. 25. No lunch Tues.–Thurs.

Fodor’s Choice | L’Angelique.

MODERN FRENCH | Régis Douysset’s refined yet unfussy French cuisine attracts the Versailles gourmet crowd. The dining room, in a restored 17th-century town house, is serene and comfortable, with white walls, wood-beam ceilings, dark wood paneling, and tasteful artwork—and the meals served here are among the best in town. A seasonally changing menu offers a good balance of seafood and game: a delicate perch fillet with spaghetti de mer (in a shellfish bouillon) or venison shoulder with grilled turnips and a spätzle of girolle mushrooms. TIP Desserts alone are worth a Michelin star—the tart feuilletée, with candied peaches, cardamom, and peach sorbet is ethereal. | Average main: €31 | 27 av. de Saint-Cloud | 01–30–84–98–85 | www.langelique.fr | Closed Sun., Mon., 1 wk Christmas, 1 wk Feb., and 2 wks Aug.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Lenôtre.

MODERN FRENCH | Set in the glamorous new Cour des Senteurs, this handsome café (a branch of the renowned Paris caterer-pâtissier) fills a much-needed gap in Versailles dining. The warm, English-speaking staff and well-priced, reliably good food—combined with a prime location amid elegant boutiques and beautiful gardens—make it a lovely choice at lunchtime, teatime, or just about any other time. The outdoor terrace is a fine spot on temperate days. TIP Don’t miss the sublime jasmine-scented macaron, specially created for the Cour des Senteurs. | Average main: €12 | 8 rue de la Chancellerie | 01–39–02–60–13 | www.lenotre.com.

Le Saint Julien.

BISTRO | It’s not just convenience that draws a mix of locals, expats, and tourists to this pleasant corner bistro, close to the château in the old Saint Louis quarter. In terms of both decor and cuisine, Le Saint Julien mixes the traditional and the modern; hearty dishes like lamb confit and rabbit parmentier (a riff on the classic beef-and-potato casserole) are complemented by tender foie gras-stuffed ravioli or velvety mushroom soup. For lighter fare, the menu always includes a fish and a vegetarian dish. Helpings are generous, but try to leave room for an impressive cheese plate or one of the famously decadent desserts. | Average main: €22 | 6 rue Saint Julien | 01–39–50–00–97 | www.lesaintjulien.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Mon.

WHERE TO STAY

Home St-Louis.

HOTEL | This family-run, three-story, stone-and-brick hotel is a good, cheap bet—close to the cathedral and a 15-minute walk from the château—with the quietest rooms overlooking the courtyard at the back, rather than facing the street. Pros: affordable; friendly. Cons: not in town center; rooms are small. | Rooms from: €93 | 28 rue St-Louis | 01–39–50–23–55 | www.lehomestlouis.com | 25 rooms | No meals.

Hôtel La Residence du Berry.

HOTEL | On a quiet main street in the charming Saint-Louis district, this 18th-century hotel with wood-beamed ceilings, antique engravings, and cozy rooms melds old-world charm with modern amenities; the picturesque bar and billiard room is a pleasant spot for a nightcap, and breakfast can be taken on a charming outdoor terrace. A five-minute walk from the château, and almost across the street from the Potager du Roi and picturesque Place Saint-Louis, the hotel is ideal for a weekend getaway. Rooms at the end of the corridor have nice views. Pros: convenient yet quiet location; newly renovated lobby adds a touch of elegance. Cons: lovely breakfast not included in the price. | Rooms from: €159 | 14 rue Anjou | 01–39–49–07–07 | www.hotel-berry.com | 38 rooms | No meals.

Le Cheval Rouge.

HOTEL | Built in 1676, this unpretentious option is in a corner of the market square, close to the château and strongly recommended if you plan to explore the town on foot. Some rooms around the old stable courtyard have their original wood beams; several have been brought up to date and redecorated in pastel colors (the most spacious, No.108, is also one of the few rooms with a bath rather than just a shower). Pros: great setting in town center; good value for Versailles. Cons: bland public areas; some rooms need renovating. | Rooms from: €89 | 18 rue André-Chénier | 01–39–50–03–03 | www.chevalrougeversailles.fr | 40 rooms | No meals.

Trianon Palace Versailles.

HOTEL | Like a modern-day Versailles, this deluxe turn-of-the-20th-century hotel is a creamy white creation of imposing size, filled with soaring rooms (including the historic Salle Clemenceau, site of the 1919 Versailles Peace Conference). Now part of the Waldorf-Astoria brand, the once faded “palace” is aglitter again with a health club (the pool is poised beneath a glass pyramid), a Guerlain spa, and a lobby glammed up with Murano chandeliers and high-back, green-leather armchairs. The hotel headliner these days is famed, foul-mouthed, super-chef Gordon Ramsay, who has remade both its posh restaurant and more casual eatery with a big splash. As for the guest rooms, try to avoid the newer annex (the Pavillon Trianon), and insist on the full treatment in the main building. Request one of the even-number rooms, which look out over the woods near the Trianons. Pros: palatial glamour; wonderful setting right by château park; Gordon Ramsay. Cons: lacks a personal touch. | Rooms from: €220 | 1 bd. de la Reine | 01–30–84–50–00 | www.trianonpalace.fr | 176 rooms, 23 suites | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Académie du Spectacle Equestre.

On most weekends, horses and their riders perform to music in a dazzling hour-long show directed by the great equine choreographer Bartabas. It’s held in the converted 17th-century Manège (riding school) at the Grandes Écuries, opposite the palace. Fodor’s Travel Talk Forum readers rave about the spectacle. TIP If you can’t make it, try catching a morning practice session. | Av. Rockefeller | 01–39–02–07–14 | www.bartabas.fr | Shows €25; morning practice €12.

Centre de Musique Baroque.

Baroque music concerts are presented in the château’s Opéra Royal and chapel. | www.cmbv.com.

Mois Molière.

In June, Mois Molière (Molière Month) heralds a program of concerts, dramatic productions, and exhibits inspired by the famous playwright. See the website for details. | Pl. du Marché Notre-Dame | 01–30–21–51–39 | www.moismoliere.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Opéra Royal de Château de Versailles.

One most beautiful opera houses in Europe was built for 14-year-old Marie Antoinette on the occasion of her marriage to Louis XVI, and entering this extravagantly gilded performance hall from the hewn-stone passageway can literally take your breath away. But the beauty is not just skin deep—the intimate 700-seat venue is blessed with rich acoustics. Home to the Royal Opéra, it also hosts an impressive roster of orchestral and chamber concerts, as well as ballets. For music and dance lovers, this spot alone is well worth the quick trip from Paris. | Château de Versailles | 01–30–83–78–89 | www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr.

Théâtre Montansier.

The calendar here usually features a full program of plays (in French) and concerts. | 13 rue des Réservoirs | 01–39–20–16–00 | www.theatremontansier.com.

SHOPPING

Aux Colonnes.

A highly rated confiserie (candy shop), Aux Colonnes has a cornucopia of chocolates and candies. It’s closed Monday. | 14 rue Hoche.

Fodor’s Choice | La Cour des Senteurs.

At the threshold of Versailles’s old town, the beautiful new Cour des Senteurs—Courtyard of Fragrances—celebrates the town’s status as the birthplace of the modern perfumer. The tiny Maison des Parfums charmingly recounts the history of perfume via a timeline and interactive displays, while the exquisite Guerlain boutique—only the second in the world after Paris—offers all the company’s signature fragrances and cosmetics, plus a new jasmine-and-bergamot-based perfume you’ll find only here. Couture glove maker Maison Fabre offers a limited-edition perfumed glove in honor of Marie Antoinette, along with a line of stylish handmade gloves; and the fabled Diptyque boutique sells the scented candles, home fragrances, and perfumes that are beloved by chic Parisians. | 8 rue de la Chancellerie | 01–39–51–17–21 | www.parfumsetsenteurs.fr.

Les Délices du Palais.

Everyone heads here to pick up homemade pâté, cold cuts, cheese, salad, and other picnic essentials. It’s closed Monday. | 4 rue du Maréchal-Foch.

DAMPIERRE

21 km (13 miles) southwest of Versailles via D91.

The unspoiled village of Dampierre is adorned with one of the most elegant family seats in the Ile-de-France.

Getting Here

Take RER-A to Saint-Rémy-les-Chevreuse (40 minutes, €4.90) and travel the remaining 7 km (4 miles) by taxi (about €13).

Exploring

Château de Dampierre.

The stone-and-brick Château de Dampierre, surrounded by a moat and set well back from the road, was rebuilt in the 1670s by Hardouin-Mansart for the Duc de Luynes. Much of the interior (guided tours only) retains its 17th-century decoration—portraits, wood paneling, furniture, and works of art. But the main staircase, with its trompe-l’oeil murals, and the richly gilded Salle des Fêtes (ballroom) date from the 19th century. This second-floor chamber contains a huge wall painting by the celebrated artist Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres (1780–1867), an idealized evocation of the mythical Age d’Or (Golden Age)—fitting, perhaps, since this aristocratic family did many good deeds and was even beloved by locals and farmers during the French Revolution. The extensive park with its large lake, fronted by gigantic gates, was planned by Versailles landscape architect André Le Nôtre. | 2 Grande-Rue | 01–30–52–53–24 | www.chateau-de-dampierre.fr | €10; grounds only €6.50 | Apr.–Sept., Mon.–Sat. 11–6:30, Sun. and holidays 11–noon and 2–6:30.

RAMBOUILLET

32 km (20 miles) southwest of Versailles, 42 km (26 miles) southwest of Paris.

Haughty Rambouillet, once favored by kings and dukes, is now home to affluent gentry and, occasionally, the French president.

Getting Here

Frequent daily trains from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse arrive at Gare de Rambouillet on place Prud’homme (35 minutes, €7.90).

Visitor Information

Rambouillet Tourist Office. | 1 pl. de la Libération | 01–34–83–21–21 | www.rambouillet-tourisme.fr.

EXPLORING

Château de Rambouillet.

Surrounded by a magnificent 36,000-acre forest, this elegant château is a popular spot for biking and walking. Most of the structure dates from the early 18th century, but the brawny Tour François-Ier (François I Tower), named for the king who died here in 1547, was part of a fortified castle that earlier stood on this site. Highlights include the wood-panel apartments, especially the Boudoir de la Comtesse (Countess’s Dressing Room); the marble-wall Salle de Marbre (Marble Hall), dating from the Renaissance; and the Salle de Bains de Napoléon (Napoléon’s Bathroom), adorned with Pompeii-style frescoes. Compared to the muscular forecourt, the château’s lakeside facade is a scene of unsuspected serenity and, as flowers spill from its balconies, cheerful informality. Guided visits in English are available on the hour (from 10 to 5) by reservation. | 01–34–83–00–25 | chateau-rambouillet.monuments-nationaux.fr | €8.50 | Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

Parc du Château.

An extensive park—complete with island-dotted lake—stretches behind the château. Within it is the Laiterie de la Reine (Queen’s Dairy), built for Marie-Antoinette: inspired by the writings of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, she came here to escape from the pressures of court life, pretending to be a simple milkmaid. It has a small marble temple and grotto and, nearby, the shell-lined Chaumière des Coquillages (Shell Pavilion). The Bergerie Nationale (National Sheepfold) is the site of a more serious agricultural venture: the merinos raised here, prized for the quality and yield of their wool, are descendants of sheep imported from Spain by Louis XVI in 1786. A museum alongside tells the tale and evokes shepherd life. | Dairy and Shell Pavilion €6; Sheepfold €6 | Wed., weekends, and holidays 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT

Auberge du Louvetier.

BISTRO | With a roaring fire in winter and an outdoor terrace in summer, this quaint, country-style restaurant specializes in the fruits of the sea. Traditional dishes—like brioche-enrobed escargot (snails) with Roquefort sauce, plump seafood sausage, a hearty soupe de poisson (fish soup), and a heaping seafood platter—are served in a wood-beamed dining room. | Average main: €22 | 19 rue de l’Etang de la Tour | 01–34–85–61–00 | aubergedulouvetier.com | Closed Mon., no lunch Sat., no dinner Sun.

La Villa Marinette.

MODERN FRENCH | In an atmospheric 18th-century villa at the edge of the forest, husband and wife team Myriam and Sébastien Bourgeois welcome diners as though entertaining in their own home. Dishes such as venison with celery-root mousseline, plump langoustine baked in a pistachio and lemon crust, or veal with wild mushrooms gathered in the nearby forest are prepared with herbs fresh from the kitchen garden. TIP Tables by the fire in winter or in the spacious garden in warm weather are at a premium, and the good-value, three-course lunch menu (€33) is a big draw, so be sure to book ahead. | Average main: €30 | 20 av. du Général de Gaulle, 3 km (2 miles) west of Rambouillet | Gazeran | 01–34–83–19–01 | villamarinette.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues., no dinner Sun.

CHARTRES

39 km (24 miles) southwest of Rambouillet via N10 and A11, 88 km (55 miles) southwest of Paris.

If Versailles is the climax of French secular architecture, Chartres is its religious apogee. All the descriptive prose and poetry that have been lavished on this supreme cathedral can only begin to suggest the glory of its 12th- and 13th-century statuary and stained glass, somehow suffused with burning mysticism and a strange sense of the numinous. Chartres is more than a church—it’s a nondenominational spiritual experience. If you arrive in summer from Maintenon across the edge of the Beauce, the richest agrarian plain in France, you can see Chartres’s spires rising up from oceans of wheat. The whole town, however, is worth a leisurely exploration. Ancient streets tumble down from the cathedral to the river, lined most weekends with bouquinistes selling old books and prints. The streets are especially busy each year on August 15, when pilgrims and tourists flock in for the Procession du Vœu de Louis XIII commemorating the French monarchy’s vow to serve the Virgin Mary.

Getting Here

Both Transilien and main-line (Le Mans–bound) trains leave Paris’s Gare Montparnasse for Chartres (50–70 minutes, €15). The train station on place Pierre-Sémard puts you within walking distance of the cathedral.

Visitor Information

Chartres Tourist Office. | Pl. de la Cathédrale | 02–37–18–26–26 | www.chartres-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

The whole town, with its old houses and quaint streets, is worth a leisurely exploration. From Rue du Pont-St-Hilaire there’s an intriguing view of the rooftops below the cathedral. Ancient streets tumble down from the cathedral to the river, lined most weekends with bouquinistes selling old books and prints. Each year on August 15 pilgrims and tourists flock here for the Procession du Vœu de Louis XIII, a religious procession through the streets commemorating the French monarchy’s vow to serve the Virgin Mary.

If you need an incentive to linger until dusk, “Chartres en Lumieres” (Chartres’s festival of lights) provides it: 28 of the city’s most revered monuments, including the glorious Notre-Dame Cathedral, are transformed into vivid light canvases.

Fodor’s Choice | Cathédrale Notre-Dame (Chartres Cathedral).

Worship on the site of the Cathédrale Notre-Dame, better known as Chartres Cathedral, goes back to before the Gallo-Roman period—the crypt contains a well that was the focus of druid ceremonies. In the late ninth century Charles II (aka “the Bald”) presented Chartres with what was believed to be the tunic of the Virgin Mary, a precious relic that went on to attract hordes of pilgrims. The current cathedral, the sixth church on the spot, dates mainly from the 12th and 13th centuries and was erected after the previous building, dating from the 11th century, burned down in 1194. A well-chronicled outburst of religious fervor followed the discovery that the Virgin Mary’s relic had miraculously survived unsinged. Motivated by this “miracle,” princes and paupers, barons and bourgeoisie gave their money and their labor to build the new cathedral. Ladies of the manor came to help monks and peasants on the scaffolding in a tremendous resurgence of religious faith that followed the Second Crusade. Just 25 years were needed for Chartres Cathedral to rise again, and it has remained substantially unchanged ever since.

The lower half of the facade survives from the earlier Romanesque church: this can be seen most clearly in the use of round arches rather than pointed Gothic-style ones. The Royal Portal is richly sculpted with scenes from the life of Christ—these meticulously detailed figures are among the greatest created during the Middle Ages. The taller of the two spires (380 feet versus 350 feet) was erected at the start of the 16th century, after its predecessor was destroyed by fire; its fanciful Flamboyant intricacy contrasts sharply with the stumpy solemnity of its Romanesque counterpart (access €3, open daily 9:30–noon and 2–4:30). The rose window above the main portal dates from the 13th century, and the three windows below it contain some of the finest examples of 12th-century stained-glass artistry in all of France.

As spiritual as Chartres is, the cathedral also had its more-earthbound uses. Look closely and you can see that the main nave floor has a subtle slant. It was designed to provide drainage because this part of the church was often used as a “hostel” by thousands of overnighting pilgrims in medieval times.

Your eyes will need time to adjust to the somber interior. The reward is seeing the gemlike richness of the stained glass, with the famous deep Chartres blue predominating. The oldest window is arguably the most beautiful: Notre-Dame de la Belle Verrière (Our Lady of the Lovely Window), in the south choir. The cathedral’s windows are gradually being cleaned—a lengthy, painstaking process—and the contrast with those still covered in the grime of centuries is staggering. TIP It’s worth taking a pair of binoculars along with you to pick out the details. If you wish to know more about stained-glass techniques and the motifs used, visit the small exhibit in the gallery opposite the north porch. Since 2008, the cathedral has been undergoing an ambitious €270-million renovation that will continue through 2015. To date, two major chapels (the chapels of the Martyrs and the Apostles) have been completely restored, as have the two bays of the nave and the lower choir and the transept windows. For those who remember these dark recesses before the restoration the transformation is nothing short of miraculous, with an estimated 160,000 square feet of original plasterwork now visible and many of the sublime details for which the cathedral is famous returned to their original 13th-century glory. For even more detail, try to arrange a tour (in English) with local institution Malcolm Miller, whose knowledge of the cathedral’s history is formidable. (He leads tours twice a day Monday through Saturday, April–October, and once a day November–March at noon. You can contact him at 02–37–28–15–58 or at | millerchartres@aol.com. The vast black-and-white labyrinth on the floor of the nave is one of the few to have survived from the Middle Ages; the faithful were expected to travel along its entire length (some 300 yards) on their knees. Guided tours of the Crypte start from the Maison de la Crypte opposite the south porch. You can also see a fourth-century Gallo-Roman wall and some 12th-century wall paintings. | 16 cloître Notre-Dame | 02–37–21–75–02 | www.chartres-tourisme.com | Crypt €3; tours €6.20 | Cathedral daily 8:30–7:30; guided tours of crypt Apr.–Oct., daily at 11, 2:15, 3:30, and 4:30; Nov.–Mar., daily at 11 and 4:15.

Chartres en Lumieres.

If you need an incentive to linger here until dusk, “Chartres en Lumieres” (Chartres’s festival of lights) provides it: 28 of the city’s most revered monuments, including the glorious Notre-Dame Cathedral, are transformed into vivid light canvases. Thematically based on the history and purpose of each specific site, the animated projections are organized into a city walk that covers a wide swath of the old town’s cobbled streets and bridges. The spectacle is free and occurs nightly from mid-April through mid-October. A train tour of the illuminated city operates several times a night in summer. | www.chartresenlumieres.com.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

Just behind the famed cathedral, the town art museum is housed in a handsome 18th-century building that once served as the bishop’s palace. Its varied collection includes Renaissance enamels, a portrait of Erasmus by Holbein, tapestries, armor, and some fine (mainly French) paintings from the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries. There’s also a room devoted to the forceful 20th-century landscapes of Maurice de Vlaminck, who lived in the region. | 29 cloître Notre-Dame | 02–37–90–45–80 | €3.40 | Wed. and Sat. 10–noon and 2–6, Sun. 2–5.

St-Aignan.

Exquisite 17th-century stained glass can be admired at the church of St-Aignan, around the corner from St-Pierre. | Rue des Grenets.

St-Pierre.

The Gothic church of St-Pierre, near the Eure River, has magnificent medieval windows from a period not represented at the cathedral. The oldest stained glass here, portraying Old Testament worthies, is to the right of the choir and dates from the late 13th century. | Rue St-Pierre.

WHERE TO EAT

La Vieille Maison.

FRENCH FUSION | Just 100 yards from the cathedral, in a pretty 14th-century building with a flower-decked patio, this restaurant is a fine choice. Chef Bruno Letartre changes his menu regularly, often including such regional specialties as asparagus, rich duck pâté, and superb homemade foie gras, along with seafood and game in season. TIP Prices, though justified, can be steep, but the “suggested” lunch menu (€29) served on summer weekdays is a good bet. | Average main: €31 | 5 rue au Lait | 02–37–34–10–67 | www.lavieillemaison.fr | Closed Mon. and Tues.; no dinner Sun.

Moulin de Ponceau.

FRENCH | Ask for a table with a view of the River Eure and the cathedral looming above at this 16th-century converted water mill. Better still, eat outside beneath a parasol on the stone terrace by the water’s edge—an idyllic setting on sunny days. You can choose from a menu of French stalwarts that might include rabbit terrine, trout with almonds, and tarte tatin, or splurge on “la trilogie” of scallops, foie gras, and langoustine. | Average main: €22 | 21 rue de la Tannerie | 02–37–35–30–05 | www.moulindeponceau.fr | No dinner Sun.

WHERE TO STAY

Best Western Le Grand Monarque.

HOTEL | On Chartres’s main square, not far from the cathedral, this converted coaching inn warmly evokes the 19th century; many guest rooms are outfitted with brick walls, attractive antiques, lush drapes, and modern bathrooms (the best are in a separate turn-of-the-20th-century building overlooking a garden, while the most atmospheric are tucked away in the attic). Downstairs, the stylishly decorated—and Michelin starred—Georges Restaurant serves such delicacies as pheasant pie and offers prix-fixe menus. It’s closed Monday and there’s no dinner Sunday, but the hotel’s La Cour brasserie is open daily. Pros: its old-fashioned charm still works today; the spa and fitness center offers beauty treatments and massage. Cons: best rooms are in an annex; uphill walk to cathedral. | Rooms from: €139 | 22 pl. des Épars | 02–37–18–15–15 | www.bw-grand-monarque.com | 50 rooms, 5 suites | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Château d’Esclimont.

HOTEL | One of France’s most spectacular château-hotels lies northeast of Chartres in the town of St-Symphorien. With its pointed turrets, moated pools, and checkerboard facade, the 19th-century Esclimont domaine—built by La Rochefoucaulds—is well worth seeking out if you wish to eat and sleep like an aristocrat. Luxuriously furnished lodgings are adorned with reproduction 18th-century French pieces; note, though, that rooms vary in size (many are loftily dimensioned, others snug in corner turrets). Carved stone garlands, cordovan leathers, brocades, and period antiques grace the public salons; the superbly manicured grounds cradle a heated pool. The cuisine is sophisticated: quail, suckling pig, and foie gras with prunes in armagnac top the menu at the restaurant, La Rochefoucauld (dinner reservations are essential, and a jacket and tie are required, as is a very fat wallet). Pros: the grand style of a country château; wonderful rural setting. Cons: service can be pompous; off the beaten path and not easy to find. | Rooms from: €220 | 2 rue du Château-d’Esclimont, 24 km (15 miles) northeast of Chartres via N10/D18 | St-Symphorien-le-Château | 02–37–31–15–15 | www.grandesetapes.fr | 48 rooms, 4 suites | No meals.

MAINTENON

17 km (10 miles) northwest of Chartres via D6 and D906, 65 km (41 miles) southwest of Paris.

The beautiful Château de Maintenon was the home of Louis XIV’s unacknowledged second wife. Its splendid Le Nôtre-designed gardens and graceful aqueduct are as pretty as a picture.

Getting Here

Several trains daily on the Paris–Rambouillet–Chartres line stop in Maintenon.

Exploring

Château de Maintenon.

This regal structure once belonged to Louis XIV’s second wife, Françoise Scarron—better known as Madame de Maintenon—whom he married morganatically in a secret ceremony in 1684 (as a social inferior, she could not claim a royal title). She had acquired the château as a young widow 10 years earlier, but, despite her love of the place, she lived here only at brief intervals. A round brick tower (16th century) and square 12th-century keep give the ensemble a muscular dignity. Mirrored in a canal that contains the waters of the Eure, this is one of the most picturesque châteaux in France. Inside, lush salons are done up in the Louis XIII style (or rather, in the Second Empire, 19th-century version of it), an homage to royal roots created by the Ducs de Noailles, one of France’s most aristocratic families, which has maintained Maintenon as one of its family homes for centuries. | 2 pl. Aristide-Briand | 02–37–23–00–09 | www.chateaudemaintenon.fr | €7.50 | Apr.–June, Wed.–Mon. 10:30–6; July and Aug., daily 10:30–6; Oct.–Nov., Wed.–Mon. 2–5.

Aqueduct.

Looming at the back of the château garden and extending through the village almost from the train station to highway D6 are the unlikely ivy-covered arches of a ruined aqueduct, one of the Sun King’s most outrageous projects. The original scheme aimed to provide the ornamental lakes and fountains in the gardens of Versailles, some 50 km (31 miles) away, with water from the River Eure. In 1684, 30,000 men were signed up to construct a three-tier, 5-km (3-mile) aqueduct as part of the project. Many died in the process, and construction was called off in 1689.

WHERE TO EAT

Bistrot d’Adeline.

BISTRO | This small, antique-filled bistro on the main street close to the château offers a cheerful welcome and wonderful home cooking, with stews, duck, rack of lamb, and tête de veau (calf’s head) among the specialties. There are good choices in the three-course set menu (€28). | Average main: €14 | 3 rue Collin-d’Harleville | 02–37–23–06–67 | www.bistrot-adeline.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug.

THOIRY

70 km (44 miles) northeast of Chartres via D906, D983, N12, and D11, 44 km (28 miles) west of Paris.

Thoiry is most famous for its 16th-century château, with beautiful gardens, a wild-animal preserve, and a gastronomy museum. The village makes an excellent day trip from Paris, especially if you’re traveling with children.

Getting Here

You can take a Transilien train from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse to Villiers Neauphile Pontchartrain (33 minutes, €7.50) and travel the remaining 6 km (3.5 miles) by taxi (about €11).

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Château de Thoiry.

Thoiry’s showpiece is the Château de Thoiry, built by Philibert de l’Orme in 1564. Its handsome Renaissance facade is set off by gardens landscaped in the disciplined French fashion by Le Nôtre, in this case with unexpected justification: The château is positioned directly in line with the sun as it sets in the west at the winter solstice (December 21) and as it rises in the east at the summer solstice (June 21). Heightening the effect, the central part of the château appears to be a transparent arch of light because of its huge glass doors and windows. Owners Vicomte Paul de La Panouse and his American wife Annabelle have restored the château and park, opening both to the public. You’re allowed to wander at leisure, although it’s best not to stray too far from the official footpath through the Réserve Africaine (game reserve). Note that the parts of the reserve that contain the wilder beasts—zebras, camels, hippos, bears, and elephants—can be visited only by car. Tigers can be seen from the safety of a raised footbridge, and lions from inside a glass-wall tunnel. | 01–34–87–52–25 | www.thoiry.net | Château, park, and game reserve €29.80 | Daily 10–5.

GIVERNY

70 km (44 miles) northwest of Paris.

The small village of Giverny (pronounced jee-vair-knee), just beyond the Epte River, which marks the boundary of the Ile-de-France, has become a place of pilgrimage for art lovers. It was here that Claude Monet lived for 43 years, until his death at the age of 86 in 1926. Although his house is now prized by connoisseurs of 19th-century interior decoration, it’s his garden, with its Japanese-inspired water-lily pond and bridge, that remains the high point for many—a 5-acre, three-dimensional Impressionist painting you can stroll around at leisure. Most make this a day trip, but Giverny has some lovely lodgings, so you could also overnight here.

Getting Here

Frequent main-line trains connect Paris’s Gare St-Lazare with Vernon (50 minutes, €15); you can then cover the remaining 10 km (6 miles) to Giverny by taxi, bus, or bike (the last of these can be rented at the café opposite Vernon station). April through October, shuttle buses meet trains daily and whisk passengers to Giverny for €9.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Maison et Jardin Claude Monet (Monet’s House and Garden).

Monet was brought up in Normandy and, like many of the Impressionists, was captivated by the soft light of the Seine Valley. After several years in Argenteuil, just north of Paris, he moved downriver to Giverny in 1883 along with his two sons, his mistress, Alice Hoschedé (whom he later married), and her six children. By 1890 a prospering Monet was able to buy this pretty maison—now a museum—outright. With pink walls and green shutters, it has a warm, homey feel that may come as a welcome change after the stateliness of the French châteaux. Rooms have been returned to Monet’s original designs: witness the kitchen with its blue tiles, the buttercup-yellow dining room, and Monet’s bedroom on the second floor. The house was fully restored only in the 1970s, thanks to the millions contributed by fans and patrons (who were often Americans). Reproductions of the painter’s works, and some of the Japanese prints he avidly collected, crowd its walls. During his era, French culture had come under the spell of Orientalism, and these framed prints were often gifts from visiting Japanese diplomats whom Monet had befriended in Paris.

Three years after buying his house and cultivating its garden—which the family called the “Clos Normand”—Monet purchased another plot of land across the lane to continue his gardening experiments, even diverting the Epte to make a pond. The resulting garden à la japonaise (reached through a tunnel from the “Clos”), with flowers spilling out across the paths, contains the famous “tea-garden” bridge and water-lily pond, flanked by a mighty willow and rhododendrons. Images of the bridge and the water lilies—in French, nymphéas—in various seasons appear in much of Monet’s later work. Looking across the pond, it’s easy to conjure up the grizzled, bearded painter dabbing at his canvases—capturing changes in light and pioneering a breakdown in form that was to have a major influence on 20th-century art.

The garden—planted with nearly 100,000 annuals and even more perennials—is a place of wonder. No matter that about 500,000 visitors troop through each year; they seem to fade in the presence of beautiful roses, carnations, lady’s slipper, tulips, irises, hollyhocks, poppies, daises, nasturtiums, larkspur, azaleas, and more. With that said, it still helps to visit midweek when crowds are thinner. If you want to pay your respects to the original gardener, Monet is buried in the family vault in Giverny’s village church. TIP Although the gardens overall are most beautiful in spring, the water lilies bloom during the latter part of July and the first two weeks of August. | 84 rue Claude Monet | 02–32–51–28–21 | www.fondation-monet.com | €9.50 | Apr.–Oct., daily 9:30–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée des Impressionnismes.

After touring the painterly grounds of Monet’s house, you may wish to see some real paintings at the Musée des Impressionnismes. Originally endowed by the late Chicago art patrons Daniel and Judith Terra, it featured a few works by the American Impressionists, including Willard Metcalf, Louis Ritter, Theodore Wendel, and John Leslie Breck, who flocked to Giverny to study at the hand of the master. But in recent years the museum has extended its scope with an exciting array of exhibitions that explore the origins, geographical diversity, and wide-ranging influences of Impressionism—in the process highlighting the importance of Giverny and the Seine Valley in the history of the movement. Onsite is a restaurant and salon de thé (tearoom) with a fine outdoor terrace, as well as a garden “quoting” some of Monet’s plant compositions. Further down the road, you can visit Giverny’s landmark Hôtel Baudy (see below), a restaurant that was once the preferred watering hole of many 19th-century artists. | 99 rue Claude Monet | 02–32–51–94–65 | www.mdig.fr | €7 | Apr.–Oct., daily 10–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Baudy.

BRASSERIE | Back in Monet’s day, this pretty-in-pink villa was the favorite hotel of the American painters’ colony. Today it remains one of the most charming spots in the Ile-de-France—despite the busloads of tour groups that pull in (luckily they’re channeled upstairs). Renovated to appear as it did in Monet’s time, the dining room is stage-set rustic; and there’s an extraordinarily pretty rose garden out back with embowered paths that lead to the studio Cézanne once used. The surroundings retain more historic charm than the simple cuisine (mainly salads large enough to count as a main course in their own right, or straightforward dishes like an omelette or gigot d’agneau), but a decent three-course prix-fixe menu is available at lunch and dinner. | Average main: €18 | 81 rue Claude-Monet | 02–32–21–10–03 | www.restaurantbaudy.com | Closed Nov.–Mar.

La Musardière.

B&B/INN | Just a short stroll from chez Monet, this 1880 manor house (the name means “Place to Idle”) has a cozy lobby, guest rooms with views overlooking a leafy garden, and its own restaurant-crêperie. Pros: surrounded by greenery. Cons: mediocre eatery attracts noisy tourist crowds in peak season. | Rooms from: €84 | 123 rue Claude Monet | 02–32–21–03–18 | www.lamusardiere.fr | 10 rooms | Closed mid-Dec.–Jan. | No meals.

Le Clos Fleuri.

B&B/INN | Giverny’s hotel shortage is offset by several stylish and affordable bed-and-breakfasts—and this is among the best. Set within a large garden, with Giverny’s picturesque church steeple looming in the background, just 600 yards from Monet’s estate and a bit farther from the Musée des Impressionnismes, Le Clos beckons enticingly. Inside, three sweet rooms (all named for flowers and each with its own entrance and private patio) welcome weary travelers: “Poppies” and “Waterlilies” have Louis Philippe–style beam ceilings and overlook the gardens, while “Clematis” has a very dramatic cathedral ceiling. Pros: co-owner Danielle Fouche speaks fluent English thanks to years spent in Australia and will happily give advice about touring the area; colorful oasis in the heart of the village. Cons: no a/c; books up quickly. | Rooms from: €98 | 5 rue de la Dîme | 02–32–21–36–51 | www.giverny-leclosfleuri.fr | 3 rooms | No credit cards | Closed Oct.–Mar. | Breakfast.

Le Jardin des Plumes.

B&B/INN | This Norman-style half-timbered inn with its lovely surrounding garden is a welcome new addition to the oft-lamented Giverny lodging and dining scene. Spacious, light-filled guest rooms pleasantly mix contemporary design with Art Deco touches and provide a warm, welcoming retreat within walking distance of Monet’s gardens. Owner and chef Eric Guérin, who earned a Michelin star for his inn near Nantes, brings all his considerable expertise to bear in the elegant dining room, where the menu focus on the bounty of the Norman seaside. Pros: location, location, location; fine restaurant; stylish rooms. Cons: still ironing out the details. | Rooms from: €160 | 1 rue du Milieu | 02–32–54–26–35 | www.lejardindesplumes.fr | 8 rooms | Closed Mon. and Tues. | No meals.

Les Jardins d’Epicure.

HOTEL | Set on seven acres of picture-perfect parkland, this unique hotel occupies three charming 19th-century buildings: the picturesque stables, with “Gothic” brick trim, high beamed ceilings, and the delightful Unicorn Suite; the Villa Florentine (once home to famed poet Paul Éluard) whose Chambre Marquise has no less than seven windows overlooking the park and stream; and the elegant Castel Napoléon III, with six separate guest rooms featuring period antiques and oriental rugs. An indoor pool, whirlpool, and sauna are lovely embellishments, but the icing on this cake is the restaurant (closed Monday, no dinner Sunday). It took chef Olivier Da Silva just 18 months to earn his first Michelin star, providing the area with a much-needed gastronomic destination. Exceptional dishes feature local products whenever possible, such as monkfish medallions in a hazelnut crust with skewered oysters or Normandy lobster raviolis with hazelnuts and tarragon. Pros: superb setting; excellent restaurant. Cons: a 20-minute drive from Giverny; gates close at 9:30 pm, sharp. | Rooms from: €120 | 16 Grande Rue, 15 km (9 miles) northeast of Vernon on D86 | 01–34–67–75–87 | www.lesjardinsdepicure.com | 16 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.

VERNON

5 km (3 miles) northwest of Giverny on D5, 73 km (46 miles) northwest of Paris.

The Vieille Ville of Vernon, on the Seine, has a medieval church, which Monet painted from across the river, and several fine timber-frame houses (the most impressive, on rue Carnot, houses the tourist office).

Getting Here

Main-line trains depart for Vernon every few hours from Paris’s Gare St-Lazare (50 minutes, €15).

Exploring

Musée Poulain.

A few minor Monet canvases, along with other late-19th-century paintings, can be admired in the Musée Poulain. This rambling old mansion is seldom crowded, and the helpful curators are happy to explain local history. | 12 rue du Pont | 02–32–21–28–09 | €4 | Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10:30-6; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Fri. 2–5:30, weekends 2–6.

Notre-Dame.

The church of Notre-Dame, across from the tourist office, has an arresting rose-window facade that, like the high nave, dates from the 15th century. Rounded Romanesque arches in the choir, however, attest to the building’s 12th-century origins. | Rue Carnot.

PONTOISE

54 km (34 miles) east of Giverny via D147, N183, and N14; 29 km (19 miles) northwest of Paris via A15.

A pleasant old town on the banks of the Oise, Pontoise is famous for its link with the Impressionists.

Getting Here

Trains from Paris’s Gare d’Austerlitz make the hour-long trip to Pontoise; tickets cost €5.80.

Exploring

Musée Camille Pissarro.

This small museum, high up in the Vieille Ville (Old Town), pays tribute to one of Pontoise’s most illustrious past residents, Impressionist painter Camille Pissarro (1830–1903). The collection of prints and drawings is of interest mainly to specialists, but the view across the valley from the museum gardens will appeal to all. | 17 rue du Château | 01–30–38–02–40 | www.ville-pontoise.fr/content/musee-camille-pissarro | Free | Wed.–Sun. 2–6.

Musée Tavet-Delacour.

Housed in a turreted mansion in the center of Pontoise, this museum stages good exhibitions and has a permanent collection that ranges from street scenes and landscapes by Norbert Goenutte and other local painters to contemporary art and the intriguing abstractions of Otto Freundlich. | 4 rue Lemercier | 01–30–38–02–40 | www.ville-pontoise.fr/content/musee-tavet-delacour | €5 | Wed.–Sun. 10–12:30 and 1:30–6.

AUVERS-SUR-OISE

74 km (46 miles) east of Giverny via D147, N14, and D4, 33 km (21 miles) northwest of Paris via N328.

The tranquil Oise River valley retains much of the charm that attracted Camille Pissarro, Paul Cézanne, Camille Corot, Charles-François Daubigny, and Berthe Morisot to Auvers-sur-Oise in the second half of the 19th century. Despite this lofty company, though, it’s the spirit of Vincent van Gogh—who spent the last months of his life painting no fewer than 70 works here—that haunts every nook and cranny of this pretty riverside village. On July 27, 1890, the tormented artist laid his easel against a haystack, walked behind the Château d’Auvers, shot himself, then stumbled to the Auberge Ravoux. He died on July 29. The next day, using a hearse from neighboring Méry (because the priest of Auvers refused to provide his for a suicide victim), Van Gogh’s body was borne up the hill to the village cemetery. His heartbroken brother Theo died the following year and, in 1914, was reburied alongside him in a simple ivy-covered grave. Today many visitors make a pilgrimage to town sites associated with Van Gogh (the tourist office has information). Short hikes outside the center will lead you to lovely rural landscapes, including the one that inspired Van Gogh’s last painting, Wheat Fields with Crows.

Getting Here

Take the RER-C line from Paris (direction Pontoise) to St-Ouen l’Aumone, and then a second train (direction Creil) onward to Auvers; the total travel is 45–55 minutes, the total cost €5.80. There is no connecting public transportation from the area around Vernon.

Visitor Information

Auvers-sur-Oise Tourist Office. | Rue de la Sansonne | 01–30–36–10–06 | www.auvers-sur-oise.com.

EXPLORING

Maison-Atelier de Daubigny.

The landscape artist Charles-François Daubigny, a precursor of the Impressionists, lived in Auvers from 1861 until his death in 1878. You can visit his studio, the Maison-Atelier de Daubigny, and admire the mural and roof paintings by Daubigny and fellow artists Camille Corot and Honoré Daumier. | 61 rue Daubigny | 01–34–48–03–03 | www.atelier-daubigny.com | €6 | Apr.–mid-July and mid-Aug.–Oct., Thurs.–Sun. 2–6.

Maison de Van Gogh (Van Gogh House).

Opposite the town hall, the Auberge Ravoux—where Van Gogh lived and died—is now the Maison de Van Gogh. The inn opened in 1876 and owes its name to Arthur Ravoux, the landlord from 1889 to 1891. He had seven lodgers in all, who paid 3.50 francs for room and board (that was cheaper than the other inns in Auvers, where 6 francs was the going rate). A dingy staircase leads up to the tiny attic where Van Gogh stored some of modern art’s most iconic paintings under his bed. A short film retraces the artist’s time at Auvers, and there’s a well-stocked souvenir shop.TIP Stop for a drink or for lunch in the ground-floor restaurant. | 8 rue de la Sansonne | 01–30–36–60–60 | www.maisondevangogh.fr | €6 | Mar.–Nov., Wed.–Sun. 10–6.

Maison du Dr. Gachet.

The former home of Van Gogh’s closest friend in Auvers, Dr. Paul Gachet, is a local landmark. Documents and mementos evoke both Van Gogh’s stay and Gachet’s passion for the avant-garde art of his era. The good doctor was himself the subject of one of the artist’s most famous portraits (and the world’s second–most expensive painting when it sold for $82 million in the late 1980s); the actual creation of it was reenacted in the 1956 biopic, Lust for Life, starring Kirk Douglas. Even this house was immortalized on canvas, courtesy of Cézanne. A friend and patron to many of the artists who settled in and visited Auvers in the 1880s, Gachet also contributed to their artistic education by teaching them about engraving processes. TIP Don’t overlook the garden—it provided the ivy that covers Van Gogh’s grave in the cemetery across town. | 78 rue du Dr-Gachet | 01–30–36–81–27 | Free | Apr.–Oct., Wed.–Sun. 10:30–6.

Musée Daubigny.

You may want to visit the modest Musée Daubigny to admire the drawings, lithographs, and occasional oils by local 19th-century artists, some of which were collected by Daubigny himself. The museum is opposite the Maison de Van Gogh, above the tourist office, which shows a 15-minute film (in English on request) about life in Auvers, From Daubigny to Van Gogh. | Manoir des Colombières, Rue de la Sansonne | 01–30–36–80–20 | www.musee-daubigny.com | €4 | Apr.–Oct., Wed.–Fri. 2–5:30, weekends 10:30–12:30 and 2–6; Nov.–Mar., Wed.–Fri. 2–5:30, weekends 10:30–12:30 and 2–5:30.

FAMILY | Voyage au Temps des Impressionnistes (Journey Through the Impressionist Era).

The elegant 17th-century village château (also depicted by Van Gogh), set above split-level gardens, now houses the Voyage au Temps des Impressionnistes. You’ll receive a set of headphones (English available), with commentary that guides you past various tableaux illustrating life during the Impressionist years. Although there are no Impressionist originals—500 reproductions pop up on screens interspersed between the tableaux—this is one of France’s most imaginative, enjoyable, and innovative museums. Some of the special effects, including talking mirrors, computerized cabaret dancing girls, and a simulated train ride past Impressionist landscapes, are worthy of Disney. The on-site Impressionist Café has three dining areas: the elegant 17th-century Orangerie, the Espaces Scénographiques, and a re-creation of a 19th-century guinguette (café/dance hall), where more casual fare is on the menu. | Rue de Léry | 01–34–48–48–40 | www.chateau-auvers.fr | €14 | Apr.–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 10:30–6; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10:30–4:30. Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Jan.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Auberge Ravoux.

BISTRO | For total Van Gogh immersion, have lunch—or dinner on Friday and Saturday—in the restaurant he patronized regularly more than 100 years ago, in the building where he finally expired. A three-course prix-fixe menu is available, and saddle of lamb and homemade terrine are among Loran Gattufo’s specialties, but it’s the genius loci that makes eating here special, with glasswork, lace curtains, and wall blandishments carefully modeled on the original designs. Table No. 5, the “table des habitués,” is where Van Gogh used to sit. A magnificently illustrated book, Van Gogh’s Table (published by Artisan), by culinary historian Alexandra Leaf and art historian Fred Leeman, recalls Vincent’s stay at the Auberge and describes in loving detail the dishes served here at the time. | Average main: €25 | 52 rue Général-de-Gaulle | 01–30–36–60–63 | www.maisondevangogh.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues, and Dec.–Feb. No dinner Wed.–Fri.

Hostellerie du Nord.

HOTEL | This sturdy mansion, which began life as a coach house in the 17th century, is now a prim hotel; its small, white-wall bedrooms are adorned with gilt-framed pictures and named after artists, including Cézanne (who stayed here in 1872) and Van Gogh (whose eponymous junior suite is the quaintest, if priciest, option). Corinne Boilleaut presides over the hotel, while her husband Joël is in charge of the restaurant. A noted chef, he expects diners to linger over his prix-fixe weekday lunch menus (€54 for three courses, with coffee and a half bottle of wine thrown in); dinners featuring innovative dishes that raise gastronomic eyebrows are also served. Although the restaurant is closed Monday, Saturday lunch, and Sunday dinner, a scaled-down bistro service provides a more than adequate alternative, with scallops and jugged hare among the healthy choices. Pros: only hotel in Auvers; great location close to river, train station, and Van Gogh’s house. Cons: bland interiors; small rooms. | Rooms from: €144 | 6 rue du Général de Gaulle | 01–30–36–70–74 | www.hostelleriedunord.fr | 8 rooms | No meals.

L’ISLE-ADAM

6 km (4 miles) northeast of Auvers-sur-Oise via D4, 40 km (25 miles) north of Paris via N1.

Despite its actual proximity, this exclusive residential enclave feels far removed from Paris. The town has a sandy beach along one stretch of the River Oise (via rue de Beaumont), a curious pagoda-like folly—the Pavillon Chinois de Cassan—and an unassuming local museum.

Getting Here

From Paris’s Gare du Nord, take an SNCF train (direction Bauvais) and change at Persan-Beaumont (direction Pontoise). The train makes a stop at the L’Isle-Adam-Parmain train station.

Exploring

Musée Louis Senlecq.

On the main street behind the tall-towered town church, this museum features the ceramic figures produced in L’Isle-Adam a century ago, and contains numerous attractive works by Jules Dupré and other local landscape artists. | 31 Grande rue | 01–34–69–45–44 | www.musee.ville-isle-adam.fr | €3.70 | Wed.–Mon. 2–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Le Cabouillet.

HOTEL | The riverside Cabouillet aptly reflects the quiet charm of L’Isle-Adam, thanks to the pretty views over the Oise River that you can savor from each of its cozy, well-appointed rooms (No. 1 is the largest and brightest) or from the chic restaurant, where the cooking can be inspired—try the sea bass with cockles and fennel, or the chicken with morels and asparagus (restaurant closed Monday, no dinner Sunday). Pros: good dining; riverside setting. Cons: small rooms. | Rooms from: €90 | 5 quai de l’Oise | 01–34–69–00–90 | www.lecabouillet.com | 6 rooms | Closed Feb. | No meals.

ST-GERMAIN-EN-LAYE

29 km (18 miles) southwest of L’Isle-Adam via D64/N184, 17 km (11 miles) west of Paris.

Encircled by forest and perched behind Le Nôtre’s Grande Terrace overlooking the Seine, this idyllic town has lost little of its original cachet—despite the invasion of wealthy former Parisians who commute to work from here.

Getting Here

Being on the RER-A line, St-Germain-en-Laye’s station handles frequent trains to and from Paris (€4.20).

Visitor Information

St-Germain-en-Laye Tourist Office. | 38 rue au Pain | 01–30–87–20–63 | www.saintgermainenlaye.fr.

EXPLORING

Château de Monte-Cristo (Monte Cristo Castle).

If you’re fond of the swashbuckling novels of Alexandre Dumas, you’ll enjoy the Château de Monte-Cristo at Port-Marly on the southern fringe of St-Germain. Dumas built the château after the surging popularity of books like The Count of Monte Cristo made him rich in the 1840s. Construction costs and lavish partying meant he went broke just as quickly, and he skedaddled into a Belgian exile in 1849. You may find the fanciful exterior, where pilasters, cupolas, and stone carvings compete for attention, crosses the line from opulence to tastelessness, but—as in Dumas’s fiction—swagger, not subtlety, is what counts. Dumas mementos aside, the highlight of the interior is the luxurious Moorish Chamber, with spellbinding, interlacing plasterwork executed by Arab craftsmen (lent by the Bey of Tunis) and restored thanks to a donation from the late Moroccan king Hassan II. | Av. du Président-Kennedy | 01–39–16–49–49 | www.chateau-monte-cristo.com | €6 | Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Fri. 10–12:30 and 2–6, weekends, and school holidays 10–6; Nov.–Mar., Sun. 2–5. Closed Dec. 20–Jan 14.

Château de St-Germain-en-Laye.

Next to the St-Germain RER train station, this stone-and-brick château, with its dry moat, intimidating circular towers, and La Grande Terrasse, is one of the most spectacular of all French garden set-pieces. The château itself dates from the 16th and 17th centuries, but a royal palace has stood here since the early 12th century, when Louis VI—known as Le Gros (the Plump)—exploited St-Germain’s defensive potential in his bid to pacify the Ile-de-France. A hundred years later Louis IX (St. Louis) added the elegant Sainte-Chapelle, the château’s oldest remaining section. Note the square-top, not pointed, side windows and the filled-in rose window on the back wall. Charles V (1364–80) built a powerful defensive keep in the mid-14th century, but from the 1540s François I and his successors transformed St-Germain into a palace with an appearance more domestic than warlike. Louis XIV was born here, and it was here that his father, Louis XIII, died. Until 1682, when the court moved to Versailles, it remained the country’s foremost royal residence outside Paris, and several Molière plays were premiered in the main hall. Since 1867 the château has housed the impressive Musée des Antiquités Nationales (Museum of National Antiquities), holding a trove of artifacts, figurines, brooches, and weapons, from the Stone Age to the eighth century. Behind the château is André Le Nôtre’s Grande Terrasse, a terraced promenade lined by century-old lime trees. Directly overlooking the Seine, it was completed in 1673 and has rarely been outdone for grandeur or length. | Pl. Charles-de-Gaulle | 01–39–10–13–00 | www.musee-archeologienationale.fr | €7 | Wed.–Mon. 10–5.

Musée Maurice Denis (Priory Museum).

This appealing museum in a historic priory is devoted to the work of the artist Maurice Denis (1870–1943) and his fellow Symbolists and to the Nabis—painters opposed to the naturalism of their 19th-century Impressionist contemporaries. Denis found the calm of the former Jesuit building, set above tiered gardens with statues and rosebushes, ideally suited to his spiritual themes, which he expressed in stained glass, ceramics, and frescoes as well as oils. | 2 bis, rue Maurice-Denis | 01–39–73–77–87 | www.musee-mauricedenis.fr | €4.50 | Tues.–Fri. 10–5:30, weekends and school holidays 10–6:30.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

La Feuillantine.

FRENCH | Imaginative, good-value prix-fixe menus have made this wood-beam restaurant a success. Scallops with fennel, salmon with endive, and herbed chicken fricassée with morels are among Chef Francis Poirier’s specialties. It’s often crowded, but try for a table near the window; those near the back of the restaurant can be a bit gloomy. | Average main: €26 | 10 rue des Louviers | 01–34–51–04–24 | www.lafeuillantine.com | Closed Mon. and Tues. lunch.

Fodor’s Choice | Cazaudehore La Forestière.

HOTEL | A quintessential Ile-de-France country retreat surrounded by forest, this hotel is St-Germain’s most stylish—rambling and solid, with shuttered windows, the house is furnished with 18th-century–style pieces. The fine restaurant (closed Monday, no dinner Sunday from November to March) features Chef Grégory Balland’s deft hand in such dishes as sole with mushroom risotto or hare stuffed with olives and foie gras. Dining on the garden veranda can prove a most seductive experience. Pros: cozy, classy hotel; run by a third-generation hotelier; good restaurant. Cons: service can be indifferent; rooms lack air-conditioning. | Rooms from: €245 | 1 av. du Président Kennedy | 01–30–61–64–64 | www.cazaudehore.fr | 25 rooms, 5 suites | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Fête des Loges (Loges Festival).

A giant fair and carnival is held in the Forest of St-Germain from late-June to mid-August. Fans of cotton candy, roller coasters, and Ferris wheels turn up in droves every year. | www.fetedesloges.org.

RUEIL-MALMAISON

8 km (5 miles) southeast of St-Germain-en-Laye via N13, 8 km (5 miles) west of Paris on N13 via La Défense.

Rueil-Malmaison is a slightly dreary western suburb of Paris, but the memory of Napoléon and Joséphine still haunts its neoclassical château.

Getting Here

From Paris, take RER-A (direction Saint-Germain-en-Laye) directly to Rueil-Malmaison (40 minutes, €4.20).

Exploring

Fodor’s Choice | La Malmaison.

Built in 1622, La Malmaison was bought by the future empress Joséphine in 1799 as a love nest for Napoléon and herself, three years after their marriage. Theirs is one of Europe’s most dramatic love stories, replete with affairs, scandal, and hatred—the emperor’s family often disparaged Joséphine, a name bestowed on her by Napoléon (her real name was Rose), as “the Creole.” After the childless Joséphine was divorced by the heir-hungry emperor in 1809, she retired to La Malmaison and died here on May 29, 1814.

The château has 24 rooms furnished with exquisite tables, chairs, and sofas of the Napoleonic period; of special note are the library, game room, and dining room. The walls are adorned with works by artists of the day, such as Jacques-Louis David, Pierre-Paul Prud’hon, and Baron Gérard. Take time to admire the clothes and hats that belonged to Napoléon and Joséphine, particularly the empress’s gowns. Their carriage can be seen in one of the garden pavilions; another contains a unique collection of snuffboxes donated by Prince George of Greece. The gardens are delightful, especially when the regimented rows of tulips are blooming in spring. | 15 av. du Château | 01–41–29–05–55 | www.chateau-malmaison.fr | €6.50 | Oct.-Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10–12:30 and 1:30–5:15; Apr.-Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–12:30 and 1:30–5:45.

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Chantilly | Senlis | Compiègne | Pierrefonds | Disneyland Paris | Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte | Barbizon | Courances | Fontainebleau

This area covers a broad arc, beginning northeast of Paris in Chantilly, one of the most popular day trips from the French capital. From the frozen-in-time medieval town of Senlis, we detour north to visit Pierrefonds, a fairy-tale 19th-century castle that may even outdo the one at Disneyland Paris, the very next stop on this tour heading south. Two of France’s most spectacular châteaux—Vaux-le-Vicomte and Fontainebleau—offer a fitting grand finale.

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CHANTILLY

37 km (23 miles) north of Paris via N16.

Celebrated for lace, cream, and the most beautiful medieval manuscript in the world—Les Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry—romantic Chantilly has a host of other attractions. Most notable among them are a faux Renaissance château with an eye-popping art collection second only to the Louvre’s, a classy racecourse, and 18th-century stables that are called “grande” for good reason.

Getting Here

Chantilly can be reached on both Transilien and main-line trains from Paris’s Gare du Nord (25–30 minutes, €8.40).

Visitor Information

Chantilly Tourist Office. | 60 av. du Maréchal-Joffre | 03–44–67–37–37 | www.chantilly-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Chantilly.

Although its lavish exterior may be 19th-century Renaissance pastiche, the Château de Chantilly, sitting snugly behind an artificial lake, houses the outstanding Musée Condé, with illuminated medieval manuscripts, tapestries, furniture, and paintings. The most famous room, the Santuario (sanctuary), contains two celebrated works by Italian painter Raphael (1483–1520)—the Three Graces and the Orleans Virgin—plus an exquisite ensemble of 15th-century miniatures by the most illustrious French painter of his time, Jean Fouquet (1420–81). Farther on, in the Cabinet des Livres (library), is the world-famous Book of Hours whose title translates as The Very Rich Hours of the Duc de Berry. It was illuminated by the Brothers Limbourg with magical pictures of early-15th-century life as lived by one of Burgundy’s richest lords; unfortunately, due to their fragility, painted facsimiles of the celebrated calendar illuminations are on display, not the actual pages of the book. Other highlights of this unusual museum are the Galerie de Psyché (Psyche Gallery), with 16th-century stained glass and portrait drawings by Flemish artist Jean Clouet II; the Chapelle, with sculptures by Jean Goujon and Jacques Sarrazin; and the extensive collection of paintings by 19th-century French artists, headed by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres. In addition, there are grand and smaller salons, all stuffed with palace furniture, family portraits, and Sèvres porcelains, making this a must for lovers of the decorative and applied arts. | 03–44–27–31–80 | www.domainedechantilly.com | €14 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–6; Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10:30–5 | Closed last 3 wks of Jan.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Grandes Écuries (Grand Stables).

The grandest stables in France were built by Jean Aubert in 1719 to accommodate 240 horses and 500 hounds used for stag- and boar-hunting in the forests nearby. Now with 30 breeds of horses and ponies living onsite in straw-lined comfort, the palatial stables function as the Musée Vivant du Cheval (Living Horse Museum). This fascinating facility, which reopened in 2013 after a two-year renovation, isn’t just for horse lovers. Equine history is explored through an array of artifacts, prints, paintings, textiles, sculptures, equipment, and weaponry. Visitors can also enjoy the elaborate horse shows and dressage demonstrations scheduled year-round. Check the website for dates and times. | 7 rue du Connétable | 03–44–27–31–80 | www.domainedechantilly.com | Horse shows €21; dressage demonstrations €11 | Apr.–Oct., Wed.–Mon. 10–5; Jan.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 1–5; Dec., Wed.–Mon. 2–5.

Hippodrome des Princes de Condé.

Chantilly, France’s equestrienne epicenter, is home to the fabled Hippodrome racetrack. Established in 1834, it comes into its own each June with two of Europe’s most prestigious events: the Prix du Jockey-Club (French Derby) on the first Sunday of the month, and the Prix de Diane for three-year-old fillies the Sunday after. On main race days, a free shuttle bus runs between Chantilly’s train station and the track. | Rte. de la Plaine-des-Aigles | 03–44–62–44–00 | www.france-galop.com/hippodrome-de-chantilly.2828.0.html.

Park.

Le Nôtre’s park is based on that familiar French royal combination of formality and romantic eccentricity. The former is represented in the neatly planned parterres and a mighty, straight-banked canal; the latter comes to the fore in the waterfall and the Hameau, a mock-Norman village that inspired Marie-Antoinette’s version at Versailles. You can explore on foot or on an electric train, and, in the warmer months, take a rowboat for a meander down the Grand Canal. | 03–44–27–31–80 | €7 park only; €18 Chantilly Pass | Apr.–Oct., Wed.–Mon. 10–8; Nov.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10:30–6.

WHERE TO EAT

La Capitainerie.

FRENCH | Housed in the stone-vaulted kitchens of the Château de Chantilly’s legendary 17th-century chef Vorace Vatel, this quaint restaurant has an open-hearth fireplace big enough for whole lambs or oxen to sizzle on the spit. Reflect at leisure on your cultural peregrinations over mouthfuls of grilled turbot or roast quail, and don’t forget to add a good dollop of homemade crème de Chantilly to your dessert. Open from noon to 5, it offers buffet or à la carte options, plus €27 and €31 prix-fixe menus. | Average main: €22 | Château de Chantilly | 03–44–57–15–89 | Closed Tues. No dinner.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Auberge du Jeu de Paume.

HOTEL | Set within the Domaine de Chantilly, the largest princely estate in France, this newcomer combines its stunning setting with old-world elegance and modern comforts to create a deluxe country retreat; all of the beautifully appointed guest rooms have elegant furnishings, spacious marble baths, and floor-to-ceiling windows—the last being particularly appreciated because many accommodations overlook the château grounds, the historic Grand Stables, and Le Nôtre–designed gardens. For dining, look no further than the hotel’s gastronomic La Table du Connétable or the Jardin d’Hiver bistro, both featuring the ambitious cuisine of Chef Arnaud Faye, in whose expert hands dishes like succulent lamb with parsnip and black truffle, or crayfish with egg ravioli, chervil, and sweet onion are raised to an art form. There’s also a cozy bar for a snack, teatime, or just an apèro. Other on-site perks include a spa, pool, and steam room. Pros: proximity to all the sights; sublime country setting; luxe amenities. Cons: dining room could be more intimate. | Rooms from: €250 | 4 rue du Connétable | 03–44–65–50–00 | www.aubergedujeudepaumechantilly.fr | 68 rooms, 24 suites | No meals.

Dolce Chantilly.

HOTEL | Surrounded by forest and its own 18-hole golf course, this sleekly modern hotel—1½ km (1 mile) northeast of the château—has a glitzy marble-floor reception hall that is not quite matched by the guest rooms: in such a vast new building, these rooms seem a bit small, but they are satisfyingly functional and fit into the contemporary style of the place. Lunch is served at Le Swing, a brasserie in the golf clubhouse; the deluxe La Carmontelle, newly updated with Chef Dorian Wicart at the helm, provides gastronomic fare in a formal dining room with views of the Chantilly forest. Pros: great facilities, including fitness rooms and indoor-outdoor pool; ambitious restaurant; stylish public areas. Cons: rooms lack character; overall the place can feel impersonal. | Rooms from: €200 | Rte. d’Apremont | Vineuil–St-Firmin | 03–44–58–47–77 | www.dolcechantilly.com | 175 rooms, 25 suites | Closed Christmas–New Year’s | No meals.

SENLIS

10 km (6 miles) east of Chantilly via D924, 40 km (26 miles) north of Paris via A1.

Senlis is an exceptionally well-preserved medieval town with a crooked maze of streets dominated by the svelte, soaring spire of its Gothic cathedral. For a glimpse into the more distant past, be sure to also inspect the superb Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie.

Getting Here

Take either the Transilien or main-line trains from Paris’s Gare du Nord to Chantilly (25–30 minutes, €8.40), then a bus onward to Senlis.

Visitor Information

Senlis Tourist Office. | Pl. du Parvis Notre-Dame | 03–44–53–06–40 | www.senlis-tourisme.fr.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Cathédrale Notre-Dame.

The breathtaking Cathédrale Notre-Dame, one of the country’s oldest and narrowest cathedrals, dates from the second half of the 12th century. The superb spire—arguably the most elegant in France—was added around 1240, and the majestic transept, with its ornate rose windows, in the 16th century. | Pl. du Parvis.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie.

Reopened in 2013 after a stunning four-year renovation, the town’s excellent Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie displays finds ranging from Gallo-Roman votive objects unearthed in the neighboring Halatte Forest to the building’s own excavated foundations (visible in the basement); note the superb stone heads bathed in half light. Upstairs, paintings include works by Manet’s teacher, Thomas Couture (who lived in Senlis) and charming naïve florals by the town’s own Séraphine de Senlis. | Palais Épiscopal, Pl. du Parvis Notre-Dame | 03–44–24–86–72 | www.musees-senlis.fr/Musee-d-Art-et-d-Archeologie/historique-du-musee.html | €4 | Mon., Thurs., and Fri. 10–noon and 2–6, weekends 11–1 and 2–6, Wed. 2–6.

OFF THE BEATEN PATH: Parc Astérix.

A great alternative to Disneyland, and a wonderful day out for young and old, this Gallic theme park takes its cue from a French comic-book figure whose adventures are set during the Roman invasion of France 2,000 years ago. Among the 30 rides and six shows that attract thundering herds of families each year are a mock Gallo-Roman village, costumed druids, performing dolphins, splash-happy waterslides, and a giant roller coaster. | 10 km (6 miles) south via A1 | 03–44–62–34–04 | www.parcasterix.fr | €46 | Hrs vary, see website for details.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Scaramouche.

MODERN FRENCH | This handsome and well-priced bistro, in an enviable spot facing the cathedral, provides a pleasant setting in which to enjoy a modern take on French classics. The focus here is more on quality than quantity, yet the menu covers all the important bases: a warm casserole of escargots with parsley butter, ravioli Dauphiné, hand-cut steak tartare with crispy frites, buttery scallops with lentils and a garlicky mayonnaise, and an array of tempting salads and desserts. On a warm day, diners can enjoy the outdoor terrace and unparalleled views of charming Senlis. | Average main: €14 | 4 pl. Notre Dame | 03–44–53–01–26 | www.le-scaramouche.fr | Closed Sun. and Mon.

L’Hostellerie de la Porte Bellon.

HOTEL | This old stone house, near the bus station and five minutes by foot from the cathedral, is the closest you can get to spending a night in the historic center of Senlis; the prettiest room is No. 14, which overlooks the garden and has sloping walls and exposed beams. Chef-owner Jean Bataille presides over the venerable restaurant, which has light oak tables, wrought-iron chairs, and a set menu (€26) that’s heavy on fish and game. Pros: only hotel close to historic town center; attractive old building. Cons: modest facilities; some rooms need renovating. | Rooms from: €85 | 51 rue Bellon | 03–44–53–03–05 | www.portebellon.fr | 18 rooms | Closed 1st 2 wks of Jan. | No meals.

COMPIÈGNE

32 km (20 miles) northeast of Senlis via D932a.

This bustling town of some 40,000 people sits at the northern limit of the Forêt de Compiègne (Compiègne Forest). The former royal hunting lodge here enjoyed its heyday in the mid-19th century under upstart emperor Napoléon III. But the town’s history stretches further back—to Joan of Arc, who was captured in battle and held prisoner here, and to its 15th-century Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall), with its jubilant Flamboyant Gothic facade; and further forward—to the World War I armistice, signed in Compiègne Forest on November 11, 1918.

Getting Here

Frequent trains connect Compiègne with Paris’s Gare du Nord (45 minutes, €18).

Visitor Information

Compiègne Tourist Office. | 28 pl. de l’Hôtel-de-Ville | 03–44–40–01–00 | www.compiegne-tourisme.fr.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Château de Compiègne.

The 18th-century Château de Compiègne, where the future Louis XVI first met Marie-Antoinette in 1770, was restored by Napoléon I and favored for wild weekends by his nephew Napoléon III. The first Napoléon’s legacy is more keenly felt: his state apartments have been refurbished using the original designs for hangings and upholstery, and bright silks and damasks adorn every room. Much of the mahogany furniture gleams with ormolu, and the chairs sparkle with gold leaf. Napoléon III’s furniture looks ponderous by comparison. Behind the palace is a gently rising 4-km (2½-mile) vista, inspired by the park at Schönbrunn, in Vienna, where Napoléon I’s second wife, Empress Marie-Louise, grew up. Also here is the Musée du Second Empire, a collection of decorative arts from the Napoléon III era: its showstopper is Franz-Xaver Winterhalter’s Empress Eugénie Surrounded by Her Ladies in Waiting, a famed homage to the over-the-top hedonism of the Napoléon Trois era. Make time for the Musée de la Voiture (Vehicle Museum) and its display of carriages, coaches, and old cars—including the Jamais Contente (Never Satisfied), the first car to reach 100 kph (62 mph). | Pl. du Général de Gaulle | 03–44–38–47–02 | www.musee-chateau-compiegne.fr | €7 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

FAMILY | Musée de la Figurine Historique (Toy Soldier Museum).

A collection of 85,000 miniature soldiers—fashioned of lead, cardboard, and other materials—depicting military uniforms through the ages is on display in the Musée de la Figurine Historique. | 28 pl. de l’Hôtel de Ville | 03–44–20–26–04 | www.musee-figurine.fr | €3 | Tues.–Sun. 10–1 and 2–6.

Wagon de l’Armistice (Armistice Railcar).

Off the road to Rethondes, the Wagon de l’Armistice is a replica of the one in which the World War I armistice was signed in 1918. In 1940 the Nazis turned the tables and made the French sign their own surrender in the same place—accompanied by Hitler’s infamous jig for joy—then tugged the original car off to Germany, where it was later destroyed. The replica is part of a small museum in a leafy clearing. | Clairière de l’Armistice, 7 km (4 miles) east of Compiègne via N31 and D546 | 03–44–85–14–18 | www.musee-armistice-14-18.fr | €5 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6. Closed Jan.

WHERE TO STAY

Harlay.

HOTEL | A family-run hotel in a foursquare stone building, the Harlay is conveniently situated by the bridge linking the train station and downtown; guest rooms are soberly decorated—the best overlook the River Oise and are soundproofed with double glazing. Pros: close to the station; rooms are quiet. Cons: bland interiors; smallish rooms. | Rooms from: €87 | 3 rue de Harlay | 03–44–23–01–50 | www.hotel-compiegne.net | 19 rooms | No meals.

PIERREFONDS

38 km (24 miles) northeast of Senlis via N324, D335, and D973.

Dominating the attractive lakeside village of Pierrefonds, a former spa resort, is its immense ersatz medieval castle.

Getting Here

From Paris’s Gare du Nord take the Transilien train to Compiègne (45 minutes, €18); from there you can carry on to Pierrefonds by cab (€27).

EXPLORING

Château de Pierrefonds.

Built on a huge mound in the 15th century, the Château de Pierrefonds was dismantled in 1620, and then recreated to reflect its imagined former glory in the 1860s at the behest of Emperor Napoléon III, who was seeking to cash in on the craze for the Middle Ages. Architect Viollet-le-Duc left a crenellated fortress with a fairy-tale silhouette, although, like the fortified town of Carcassonne, which he also restored, Pierrefonds is more a construct of what he thought it should have looked like than what it really was. A visit takes in the chapel, barracks, and the majestic keep containing the lord’s bedchamber and reception hall, which is bordered by a spiral staircase—its lower and upper sections clearly reveal what is ancient and what is more recent in this former fortress. Don’t miss the plaster casts of tomb sculptures from all over France in the cellars, and the Collection Monduit—industrially produced, larger-than-life lead decorations made by the 19th-century firm that brought the Statue of Liberty to life. | Rue Viollet-le-Duc | 03–44–42–72–72 | www.pierrefonds.monuments-nationaux.fr | €7.50 | May–Aug., daily 9:30–6; Sept.–Apr., Tues.–Sun. 10–1 and 2–5:30.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Le Relais Brunehaut.

B&B/INN | Crowned with a picturesque stepped gable, this tiny ensemble of flower-bedecked, stucco-and-stone buildings has a bucolic setting—it rises up from a park, next to the village’s abbey church and by a small river that has its own wooden waterwheel. Adorable guest rooms are done up in period antiques, some with oriental rugs and chandeliers; beamed woodwork and good, simple seasonal fare make dining here an added pleasure (restaurant closed for lunch on Monday and Tuesday). Pros: quaint, camera-ready setting; gentle rates. Cons: you might overdose on charm. | Rooms from: €75 | 3 rue de l’Église, 5 km (3 miles) east of Pierrefonds on D85 | Chelles | 03–44–42–85–05 | www.lerelaisbrunehaut.fr | 11 rooms | Closed mid-Jan.–mid-Feb. | No meals.

DISNEYLAND PARIS

68 km (40 miles) southwest of Pierrefonds via D335, D136, N330, and A4; 38 km (24 miles) east of Paris via A4.

Disneyland Paris is probably not what you’ve traveled to France for. But if you have a child in tow, the promise of a day with Mickey might get you through an afternoon at Versailles or Fontainebleau. If you’re a dyed-in-the-wool Disney fan, you’ll also want to make a beeline here to see how the park has been molded to suit European tastes (Disney’s “Imagineers” call it their most lovingly detailed one, and it simultaneously feels both decidedly foreign and eerily familiar). And if you’ve never experienced this particular form of Disney showmanship before, you may want to put in an appearance simply to find out what all the fuss is about.

Getting Here

Take the RER-A from central Paris (stations at Étoile, Auber, Les Halles, Gare de Lyon, and Nation) to Marne-la-Vallée–Chessy—the gare there is 100 yards from the Disneyland entrance; trains operate every 10–30 minutes, depending on the time of day (40 minutes, €7.50). High-speed TGV train service (www.tgv.com) links Disneyland to Lille, Lyon, Brussels, and London (via Lille and the Channel Tunnel). Disneyland’s hotel complex also offers a shuttle bus service connecting it with the Orly and Charles de Gaulle airports; in each case the trip takes about 45 minutes and tickets cost €20.

Visitor Information

Disneyland Paris Reservations Office. | 01–60–30–60–90, 407/939–7675 in U.S. | www.disneylandparis.com.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Disneyland Paris.

A slightly downsized version of its United States counterpart, Disneyland Paris is a spectacular sight created with an acute attention to detail. Disney never had quite the following here as it did Stateside, so when the park first opened, few turned up; Walt’s vision, however, eventually won them over. Today the place is jammed with families from around the world reveling in the many splendors of the Disney universe.

Some of the rides can be a bit scary for little kids, but tots adore Alice’s Maze, Peter Pan’s Flight, and especially the whirling Mad Hatter’s Teacups. Also getting high marks are the afternoon parades, which feature music, introductions in five languages, and huge floats swarming with all of Disney’s most beloved characters—just make sure to stake your place along Main Street in advance for a good spot (check for posted times). There’s a lot here, so pace yourself: kids can easily feel overwhelmed by the barrage of stimuli or frustrated by extra-long waits at the rides (also be aware that there are size restrictions for some). The older the children, the more they will enjoy Walt Disney Studios, a cinematically driven sister park, where many of the newer attractions can be found.

Disneyland Park, the original part of the complex, consists of five “lands”: Main Street U.S.A., Frontierland, Adventureland, Fantasyland, and Discoveryland. The central theme of each is relentlessly echoed in everything from attractions to restaurant menus to souvenirs. The park is circled by a railroad, which stops three times along the perimeter. Main Street U.S.A. goes under the railroad and past shops and restaurants toward the main plaza; Disney parades are held here every afternoon and, during holiday periods, every evening.

Top attractions at Frontierland are the chilling Phantom Manor, haunted by holographic spooks, and the thrilling runaway mine train of Big Thunder Mountain, a roller coaster that plunges wildly through floods and avalanches in a setting meant to evoke Utah’s Monument Valley. Whiffs of Arabia, Africa, and the Caribbean give Adventureland its exotic cachet; the spicy meals and snacks served here rank among the best food in the park. Don’t miss Pirates of the Caribbean, an exciting mise-en-scène populated by lifelike animatronic figures, or Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, a rapid-fire ride that recreates some of this hapless hero’s most exciting moments.

Fantasyland charms the youngest parkgoers with familiar cartoon characters from such classic Disney films as Snow White, Pinocchio, Dumbo, Alice in Wonderland, and Peter Pan. The focal point of Fantasyland, and indeed Disneyland Paris, is Le Château de la Belle au Bois Dormant (Sleeping Beauty’s Castle), a 140-foot, bubblegum-pink structure topped with 16 blue- and gold-tipped turrets. Its design was allegedly inspired by illustrations from a medieval Book of Hours—if so, it was by way of Beverly Hills. The castle’s dungeon conceals a 2-ton scaly green dragon that rumbles in its sleep and occasionally rouses to roar—an impressive feat of engineering, producing an answering chorus of shrieks from younger children. Discoveryland is a high-tech, futuristic eye-popper. Robots on roller skates welcome you on your way to Star Tours, a pitching, plunging, sense-confounding ride based on the Star Wars films; and another robot, the staggeringly realistic 9-Eye, hosts a simulated space journey in Le Visionarium. Other top Discoveryland attractions include the Jules Verne–inspired Space Mountain Mission 2, which pretends to catapult exploronauts on a rocket-boosted, comet-battered journey through the Milky Way; and Buzz Lightyear Laser Blast, which challenges kids to blast the villain Zurg with their own laser gun from a whirling star cruiser.

As you’d expect, Disneyland Paris has lots of dining options, ranging from snack bars and fast-food joints to five full-service restaurants—all with a distinguishing theme. If your child has his or her heart set on a specifically themed restaurant, say, Pirates of the Caribbean (a dark corsair’s lair that looks over the titular ride) or the Auberge de Cendrillon (Cinderella’s Inn, where the nasty stepmother and sisters themselves bustle through the aisles), make sure to make advance reservations in person or online. In addition, Walt Disney Studios, Disney Village, and Disney Hotels have restaurants open to the public. But since these are outside the park, it’s not recommended that you waste time traveling to them for lunch. Disneyland Paris has relaxed its no-alcohol policy and now serves wine and beer in the park’s sit-down restaurants, as well as in the hotels and restaurants outside the park.

Walt Disney Studios opened next to the Disneyland Park in 2002. It’s divided into four “production zones.” Beneath imposing entrance gates and a 100-foot water tower inspired by the one erected in 1939 at Disney Studios in Burbank, California, Front Lot contains shops, a restaurant, and a studio recreating the atmosphere of Sunset Boulevard. In Animation Courtyard, Disney artists demonstrate the various phases of character animation; Animagique brings to life scenes from Pinocchio and The Lion King, while the Genie from Aladdin pilots Flying Carpets over Agrabah. Production Courtyard hosts the Walt Disney Television Studios; Cinémagique, a special-effects tribute to U.S. and European cinema; and a behind-the-scenes Studio Tram tour of location sites, movie props, studio interiors, and costumes, ending with a visit to Catastrophe Canyon in the heart of a film shoot. Back Lot majors in stunts. At Armageddon Special Effects you can confront a flaming meteor shower aboard the Mir space station, then complete your visit at the giant outdoor arena with a Stunt Show Spectacular involving cars, motorbikes, and Jet Skis. The newest addition to Walt Disney Studios opens in the summer of 2014. Appropriately, it’s a mini-land—complete with ride and restaurant—themed around the Paris-based Pixar flick Ratatouille. | Marne-la-Vallée | 01–60–30–60–90 | www.disneylandparis.com | €81, or €169 for 3-day Passport; includes admission to all individual attractions within Disneyland or Walt Disney Studios; tickets for Walt Disney Studios are also valid for admission to Disneyland during last 3 opening hrs of same day | Disneyland mid-June–mid-Sept., daily 9 am–10 pm; mid-Sept.–Dec. 19 and Jan. 5–mid-June, weekdays 10–8, weekends 9–8; Dec. 20–Jan. 4, daily 9–8. Walt Disney Studios daily 10–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Sequoia Lodge.

HOTEL | Ranging from superluxe to still-a-pretty-penny, Disneyland Paris has 5,000 rooms in five hotels, but your best bet on all counts may be the Sequoia Lodge—a grand recreation of an American mountain lodge, just a few minutes’ walk from the theme park. Past towering evergreens, you enter a charming lobby, replete with an open fire crackling on a giant stone hearth in the Redwood Bar. Guest rooms have natural wood furniture that’s meant to evoke log cabins; books yours in the main Montana building (overlooking Lake Disney) rather than one of the smaller annex “lodges.” For youngsters there’s a children’s corner, outdoor play area, and video-game room. For food, the choice is between the family-oriented, buffet-service Hunter’s Grill and the more upscale Beaver Creek Tavern. As at all Disneyland Paris hotels, free transportation to the park is available. Note that room prices can fluctuate widely depending on season and school vacation periods—keep hunting to find lower-priced days. Pros: package deals include admission to theme park; cozy, secluded feel; great pools. Cons: restaurants a bit ho-hum; many rooms do not have lake view. | Rooms from: €300 | Marne-la-Vallée | 01–60–30–60–90, 407/939–7675 in U.S. | www.disneylandparis.com | 1,020 rooms | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Disney Village.

Nocturnal entertainment outside the park centers on Disney Village, a vast pleasure mall designed by American architect Frank Gehry. Homesick kids who’ve had enough of croque-monsieur sandwiches will be happy to hear that vintage American-style restaurants—a diner, a deli, and a steak house among them—dominate the food scene here. | Marne-la-Vallée

Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show.

Also in Disney Village is Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show, a two-hour dinner extravaganza with a menu of sausage, spare ribs, and chili. The entertainment component includes performances by a talented troupe of stunt riders, bronco busters, tribal dancers, and musicians; plus some 50 horses, a dozen buffalo, a bull, and an Annie Oakley–style sharpshooter, with a golden-maned “Buffalo Bill” as emcee. A re-creation of a show that dazzled Parisians 100 years ago, it’s corny but great fun. | Marne-la-Vallée | 01–60–45–71–00 for reservations | €59.90 | Nightly at 6:30 and 9:30.

CHATEAU DE VAUX-LE-VICOMTE

48 km (30 miles) south of Disneyland Paris via N36, 5 km (3 miles) northeast of Melun via N36 and D215, 56 km (35 miles) southeast of Paris via A6, N104, A5, and N36.

A manifesto for French 17th-century splendor, the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte was built between 1656 and 1661 by finance minister Nicolas Fouquet. The construction program was monstrous. Entire villages were razed; 18,000 workmen were called in; and architect Louis Le Vau, painter Charles Le Brun, and landscape architect André Le Nôtre were recruited at vast expense to prove that Fouquet’s taste was as refined as his business acumen. The housewarming party was so lavish it had star guest Louis XIV, testy at the best of times, spitting jealous curses. He hurled Fouquet in the slammer and set about building Versailles to prove just who was top banana. Poor Fouquet may be gone but his home, still privately owned, has survived to astonish and delight centuries of travelers.

Getting Here

Take a train from Paris’s Gare de Lyon to Melun (25 minutes, €8.10), then taxi for the 7-km (4-mile) trip to the château (about €20). April through mid-November, a special Châteaubus shuttle runs from the Melun train station (€7 round-trip).

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte.

The high-roof Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, partially surrounded by a moat, is set well back from the road behind iron railings topped with sculpted heads. A cobbled avenue stretches up to the entrance, and stone steps lead to the vestibule, which seems small given the noble scale of the exterior. Charles Le Brun’s captivating decoration includes the ceiling of the Chambre du Roi (Royal Bedchamber), depicting Time Bearing Truth Heavenward, framed by stuccowork by sculptors François Girardon and André Legendre. Along the frieze you can make out small squirrels, the Fouquet family’s emblem—squirrels are known as fouquets in local dialect. But Le Brun’s masterpiece is the ceiling in the Salon des Muses (Hall of Muses), a brilliant allegorical composition painted in glowing, sensuous colors that some feel even surpasses his work at Versailles. On the ground floor the impressive Grand Salon (Great Hall), with its unusual oval form and 16 caryatid pillars symbolizing the months and seasons, has harmony and style even though the ceiling decoration was never finished.

The state salons are redolent of le style louis quartorze, thanks to the grand state beds, Mazarin desks, and Baroque marble busts—gathered together by the current owners of the château, the Comte et Comtesse de Vogüé—that replace the original pieces, which Louis XIV trundled off as booty to Versailles. In the basement, where cool, dim rooms were once used to store food and wine and house the château’s kitchens, you can find rotating exhibits about the château’s past and life-size wax figures illustrating its history, including the notorious 19th-century murder-suicide of two erstwhile owners, the Duc and Duchess de Choiseul-Praslin.

Le Nôtre’s carefully restored gardens, considered by many to be the designer’s masterwork, are at their best when the fountains—which function via gravity, exactly as they did in the 17th century—are turned on (the second and final Saturday of each month from April through October, 4–6 pm). The popular illuminated evenings, when the château is dazzlingly lit with 2,000 candles, are held every Saturday from early May to early October. Open for dinner during this event only, the formal Les Charmilles restaurant serves refined cuisine with château views (reservations essential). At other times, L’Ecureuil (a more casual eatery) is a good choice for lunch or snacks. TIP You can also bring a picnic to enjoy in the extensive gardens. | 01–64–14–41–90 | www.vaux-le-vicomte.com | €16.50; candlelight château visits €19.50; gardens only €8.50 | Mid-Mar.–mid-Nov. 10–6.

WHERE TO EAT

La Table Saint Just.

MODERN FRENCH | A pleasing mix of ancient and modern, this colorful, light-filled restaurant, with high-beamed ceilings and limestone walls hung with contemporary art and “candeliers,” was once a farmstead on the grounds of the nearby Château de Vaux-le-Pénil. But Isabelle and Fabrice Vitu’s warm welcome and Michelin-starred cuisine are the real draws; locals and Parisians alike appreciate the refined menu that includes surprising twists on French classics and plenty of delicacies from the sea. Savor scallops on a bed of Puy lentils, crisp veal foot in a smoked-eel emulsion, or succulent John Dory with truffles—but be sure to save room for the warm Grand Marnier soufflé, a house specialty. TIP The four-course tasting menu (€105) is the best value. | Average main: €36 | 11 rue de la Libération, 6 km (4 miles) southwest of Vaux-leVicomte; 13 km (8 miles) northwest of Barbizon | Vaux-le-Pénil | 01–64–52–09–09 | www.restaurant-latablesaintjust.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., and 1 wk in Aug.

Le Pouilly.

MODERN FRENCH | The lofty dining room of this ancient demeure has everything a country manor should: creamy stone walls, warm oak paneling, beamed ceilings, a giant central fireplace, and a stately balcony. In winter, hearty yet refined dishes—which have earned Le Pouilly a Michelin star—are served before a roaring fire, and in summer the garden terrace makes a lovely spot for lunch or a candlelight dinner. Chef Nicolas Dousset works his magic in dishes like tender Challans duck with a purée of Jerusalem artichoke or grilled swordfish with bergamot-scented quinoa and avocado vinaigrette. For dessert, the locally-grown glacéd peach served with a tender cookie of pistachio and raisins pairs perfectly with a sweet Montlouis from the exceptional wine list. | Average main: €36 | 1 rue Fontaine Pouilly, 8 km (5 miles) northwest of Vaux-le-Vicomte | Pouilly le Fort | 01–64–09–56–64 | www.restaurant-lepouilly.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and 3 wks in Aug. No dinner Sun.

BARBIZON

17 km (11 miles) southwest of Vaux-le-Vicomte via Melun and D132/D64, 52 km (33 miles) southeast of Paris.

On the western edge of the 62,000-acre Forest of Fontainebleau, the village of Barbizon retains its time-stained allure despite the intrusion of art galleries, souvenir shops, and busloads of tourists. The group of landscape painters known as the Barbizon School—Camille Corot, Jean-François Millet, Narcisse Diaz de la Peña, and Théodore Rousseau, among others—lived here from the 1830s on. They paved the way for the Impressionists by their willingness to accept nature on its own terms rather than using it as an idealized base for carefully structured compositions. Sealed to one of the famous sandstone rocks in the forest—which starts, literally, at the far end of the main street—is a bronze medallion by sculptor Henri Chapu, paying homage to Millet and Rousseau. Threading the village is a Painters Trail (marked in yellow), which links main village landmarks to natural splendors such as the rocky waterfall once painted by Corot.

Getting Here

Take a Transilien train from Gare de Lyon to Melun (25 minutes, €8.10) or Avon (38 minutes, €8.75); you can pick up a taxi to Barbizon in either town (around €30).

Visitor Information

Barbizon Tourist Office. | 41 Grande rue | 01–60–66–41–87 | www.barbizon.fr.

EXPLORING

Atelier Jean-François Millet (Millet’s Studio).

Though there are no actual Millet works, the Atelier Jean-François Millet is cluttered with photographs and mementos evoking his career. It was here that the painter produced some of his most renowned pieces, including The Gleaners. | 27 Grande rue | 01–60–66–21–55 | www.atelier-millet.fr | €4 | Nov.–Mar., Thurs.–Mon.; Apr.–Oct. Wed.–Mon.; July and Aug., daily.

Musée Départemental des Peintres de Barbizon (Barbizon School Museum).

Corot and company would often repair to the Auberge Ganne after painting to brush up on their social life; the inn is now the Musée de Peintres de Barbizon. Here you can find documents detailing village life in the 19th century, as well as a few original works. The Barbizon artists painted on every available surface, and even now you can see some of their creations on the upstairs walls. Two of the ground-floor rooms have been reconstituted as they were in Ganne’s time—note the trompe-l’oeil paintings on the buffet doors. There’s also a video about the Barbizon School. | 92 Grande rue | 01–60–66–22–27 | musee-peintres-barbizon.fr | €3 | Wed.–Mon. 10–12:30 and 2–5:30 (until 6 in July and Aug.).

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Relais de Barbizon.

FRENCH | French country specialties and fish are served at this rustic restaurant with a big open fire and a large terrace shaded by lime and chestnut trees. The four-course weekday menu is a good value, but wine here is expensive and cannot be ordered by the pichet (pitcher). TIP Reservations are essential on weekends. | Average main: €25 | 2 av. Charles de Gaulle | 01–60–66–40–28 | www.lerelaisdebarbizon.fr | Closed Tues. and Wed. and part of Aug. and part of Dec.

Les Pléiades.

HOTEL | The one-time home of Barbizon-school painter Charles Daubigny started out as a humble village abode in 1830; now it’s been expanded and brought sumptuously up-to-date with contemporary interiors and features. Twenty luxe rooms are done up in an ultramodern style, with sleek furnishings in earth tones highlighted by splashes of color and rich parquet floors; spacious bathrooms with showers and whirlpool baths can be found in most rooms; other possible perks include beamed cathedral ceilings and terraces overlooking the pool and garden. The on-site L’Atelier brasserie serves gourmet prix-fixe meals in a bright, painter’s-studio atmosphere. Guilt-inclined diners can work out afterward in hotel’s spa-fitness center. Pros: great location in the heart of the village; indoor-outdoor heated pools to swim in after a hike in the nearby woods; impeccable service. Cons: contemporary interiors can be a bit austere. | Rooms from: €280 | 21 Grande rue | 01–60–66–40–25 | www.hotel-les-pleiades.com | 20 rooms | No meals.

COURANCES

11 km (7 miles) west of Barbizon via the A6, Exit 13, a few miles from Milly-la-Fôret.

Set within one of the most lavish water gardens in Europe, the Château de Courances is a byword for beauty and style.

Getting Here

Take the train from Paris’s Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon, then a La Patache shuttle bus to Courances.

Exploring

Château de Courances.

Framed by majestic avenues of centuries-old plane trees, Château de Courances’s style is Louis Treize, although its finishing touch—a horseshoe staircase (mirroring the one at nearby Fontainebleau)—was an opulent 19th-century statement made by Baron Samuel de Haber, a banker who bought the estate and whose daughter then married into the regal family of the de Behagués. Their descendants, the Marquises de Ganay, have made the house uniquely and famously “chez soi,” letting charming personal taste trump conventional “bon goût,” thanks to a delightful mixture of 19th-century knickknacks and grand antiques. Outside, the vast French Renaissance water gardens create stunning vistas of stonework, grand canals, and rushing cascades. The house can only be seen on a 40-minute tour. | 01–64–98–07–36 | www.courances.net | €9.50, park only €7.50 | Apr.–Oct., weekends and school holidays 2–6.

FONTAINEBLEAU

9 km (6 miles) southeast of Barbizon via N7, 61 km (38 miles) southeast of Paris via A6 and N7.

Like Chambord in the Loire Valley or Compiègne to the north, Fontainebleau was a favorite spot for royal hunting parties long before the construction of one of France’s grandest residences. Although not as celebrated as Versailles, this palace is almost as spectacular.

Getting Here

Fontainebleau—or rather, neighboring Avon—is a 38-minute train ride from Paris’s Gare de Lyon (€8.75); from here, take one of the frequent shuttle buses to the château, 2 km (1½ miles) away (€4.20 round-trip).

Visitor Information

Fontainebleau Tourist Office. | 4 rue Royale | 01–60–74–99–99 | www.fontainebleau-tourisme.com.

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EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Fontainebleau.

The château you see today dates from the 16th century, although additions were made by various royal incumbents through the next 300 years. It was begun under the flamboyant Renaissance king François I, the French contemporary of England’s Henry VIII, who hired Italian artists Il Rosso (a pupil of Michelangelo) and Primaticcio to embellish his château. In fact, they did much more: by introducing the pagan allegories and elegant lines of Mannerism to France, they revolutionized French decorative art. Their virtuoso frescoes and stuccowork can be admired in the Galerie François-Ier (Francis I Gallery) and in the jewel of the interior, the 100-foot-long Salle de Bal (Ballroom), with its luxuriant wood paneling, completed under Henri II, François’s successor, and its gleaming parquet floor that reflects the patterns on the ceiling. Like the château as a whole, the room exudes a sense of elegance and style, but on a more intimate, human scale than at Versailles—this is Renaissance, not Baroque. Napoléon’s apartments occupied the first floor. You can see a lock of his hair, his Légion d’Honneur medal, his imperial uniform, the hat he wore on his return from Elba in 1815, and one bed in which he definitely did spend a night (almost every town in France boasts a bed in which the emperor supposedly snoozed). Joséphine’s Salon Jaune (Yellow Room) is one of the best examples of the Empire style—the austere neoclassical style promoted by the emperor. There’s also a throne room—Napoléon spurned the one at Versailles, a palace he disliked, establishing his imperial seat in the former King’s Bedchamber here—and the Queen’s Boudoir, also known as the Room of the Six Maries (occupants included ill-fated Marie-Antoinette and Napoléon’s second wife, Marie-Louise). The sweeping Galerie de Diane, built during the reign of Henri IV (1589–1610), was converted into a library in the 1860s. Other salons have 17th-century tapestries and paintings, and frescoes by members of the Fontainebleau School.

Although Louis XIV’s architectural fancy was concentrated on Versailles, he commissioned Mansart to design new pavilions and had André Le Nôtre replant the gardens at Fontainebleau, where he and his court returned faithfully in fall for the hunting season. But it was Napoléon who spent lavishly to make a Versailles, as it were, out of Fontainebleau. He held Pope Pius VII here as a captive guest in 1812, signed the second church-state concordat here in 1813, and, in the cobbled Cour des Adieux (Farewell Courtyard), said good-bye to his Old Guard on April 20, 1814, as he began his brief exile on the Mediterranean island of Elba. The famous Horseshoe Staircase that dominates the Cour des Adieux, once the Cour du Cheval Blanc (White Horse Courtyard), was built by Androuet du Cerceau for Louis XIII (1610–43); it was down this staircase that Napoléon made his way slowly to take a final salute from his Vieille Garde. Another courtyard—the Cour de la Fontaine (Fountain Courtyard)—was commissioned by Napoléon in 1812 and adjoins the Étang des Carpes (Carp Pond). Across from the pond is the formal Parterre (flower garden) and, on the other side, the leafy Jardin Anglais (English Garden).

The Porte Dauphine is the most beautiful of the various gateways that connect the complex of buildings; its name commemorates the christening of the dauphin—the heir to the throne, later Louis XIII—under its archway in 1606. The gateway fronts the Cour Ovale (Oval Court), shaped like a flattened egg. Opposite the courtyard is the Cour des Offices (Kitchen Court), a large, severe square built at the same time as Place des Vosges in Paris (1609). Around the corner is the informal Jardin de Diane (Diana’s Garden), with peacocks and a statue of the hunting goddess surrounded by mournful hounds. | Pl. du Général de Gaulle | 01–60–71–50–70 | www.musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr | €11, Napoléon’s Apartments €6.50 extra, €15.50 for both; gardens free | Palace Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–5; Apr.–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–6. Gardens May–Sept., daily 9–7; Mar., Apr., and Oct., daily 9–6; Nov.–Feb., daily 9–5.

WHERE TO EAT

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Frédéric Cassel.

MODERN FRENCH | A mandatory stop for pastry and chocolate lovers alike, this master pâtissier excels in classic French confections with all the bells and whistles. Light-as-air and made with the finest ingredients, Cassel’s award-winning creations are as beautiful as they are scrumptious. The sinful millefeuille comes in five flavors, including sweet chestnut and Earl Gray tea; the tarte duo de cerise mixes tart and sweet cherries with almond cream; and some say his classic macaron is one of the best in France—high praise indeed! Chocolates are freshly made on the premises. TIP Don’t miss the lovely tea salon, where you can choose from a large selection of Dammann Frères teas, coffée, chocolat chaud, and pastries. | Average main: €19 | 21 rue des Sablons | 01–60–71–00–64 | www.frederic-cassel.com | Reservations not accepted | Tues.–Fri. 10–7, Sat. 10–7:30.

Les Prémices.

MODERN FRENCH | Adjoining the property of the stately 17th-century Château de Bourron, in the heart of the Forest of Fontainebleau, this lovely restaurant is well worth the short trip out of town. Bright and airy, with an open terrace in warm weather, the elegant dining room shows meticulous attention to detail—from the crisp table linens to the stylish flower arrangements—all the better to highlight Chef Dominique Maès’s sophisticated French fare. A starter of piquant rabbit farci, served alongside velvety tapenade and candied tomatoes, followed by a sublimely succulent hen, fattened on the salt flats of the Mont-St-Michel bay and infused with lemon thyme and white truffles, will barely leave room for the beautifully displayed local artisanal cheeses. The six-course tasting menu—with wine pairings at an extra cost—is the best deal, allowing for a well-rounded sampling of this talented chef’s inventive cuisine. | Average main: €35 | 12 bis rue Blaise de Montesquiou, 8 km (5 miles) south of Fontainebleau via D607 | Bourron-Marlotte | 01–64–78–33–00 | www.restaurant-les-premices.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon., Tues., and Dec. 19–Jan. 5; no dinner Sun.

WHERE TO STAY

Aigle Noir.

HOTEL | This may be Fontainebleau’s costliest hotel, but it does promise old-world elegance, graceful service, and oodles of atmosphere. Housed in a 17th-century mansion near the palace, the spacious guest rooms conjure up the past through period furnishings, toile fabrics, and antique engravings, without skimping on any of the modern conveniences. You can’t go wrong if you request one overlooking either the garden or the palace. Pros: period ambience; great location opposite château. Cons: no restaurant. | Rooms from: €190 | 27 pl. Napoléon Bonaparte | 01–60–74–60–00 | www.hotelaiglenoir.com | 53 rooms | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel de Londres.

HOTEL | Established in 1850, the superbly located Londres has been run with pride by the same family for three generations, and guests are treated to a warm welcome by owners who go out of their way to make your stay pleasant. Charmingly homey yet elegant, the ample-sized rooms are tastefully decorated with antiques and oriental rugs; some have fireplaces, and six have balconies with marvelous views of the Fontainebleau palace entrance and the Cour des Adieux, where Napoléon bade his troops an emotional farewell (the best views are from Nos. 10 and 11 on the top floor). The hotel’s stately 19th-century facade is a registered landmark. Pros: excellent value; château views from some rooms; two-minute walk to the Fontainebleau 18-hole golf course. Cons: not all rooms have air-conditioning; limited parking. | Rooms from: €120 | 1 pl. du Général de Gaulle | 01–64–22–20–21 | www.hoteldelondres.com | 14 rooms, 2 suites | Closed 1 wk in Aug. and Christmas–early Jan. | No meals.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Club Alpin Français.

The Forest of Fontainebleau is laced with hiking trails; the Guide des Sentiers (trail guide), available at the tourist office, has details. Bikes can be rented at the Fontainebleau-Avon train station. The forest is also famed for its quirky rock formations, where many a novice alpinist first caught the climbing bug; for more information contact the Club Alpin Français. | 24 av. Laumière | Paris | 01–53–72–87–00 | www.ffcam.fr.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to The Loire Valley

The Eastern Loire Valley

The Central and Western Loire Valley

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner | Dining in the Loire Valley

Updated by Jack Vermee

A fairy-tale realm par excellence, the Loire Valley is studded with storybook villages, time-burnished towns, and—bien sûr—the famous châteaux de la Loire. These postcard staples, like Chenonceau and Chambord, seem to be strung like a strand of pearls across a countryside so serene it could win the Nobel peace prize. With magic at every curve in the road, Cinderella’s glass coach might be the optimal way to get around. If that is not available, buses and trains can carry you to the main towns of the three Loire provinces—Anjou (to the west), Orléans (to the east), and the center ring of the show, Touraine.

For centuries, the Loire River (France’s longest) was the region’s principal means of transportation as well as an effective barrier against invading armies—and there were a lot of the latter. The valley was hotly disputed by France and England during the Middle Ages; it belonged to England (under the Anjou Plantagenet family) between 1154 and 1216 and again during the Hundred Years’ War (1337–1453). So it’s understandable that towering slopes would be fortified early on and that towns would arise at strategic bridgeheads.

But why did the Loire become so prized for its châteaux? With the wars of the 15th century fading, the Loire Valley, long known as “the garden of France,” became a showplace of new and fabulous châteaux d’agrément, or pleasure castles. In short order, there were boxwood gardens endlessly receding toward vanishing points, moats graced with swans, parades of delicate cone-top towers, frescoes, and fancywork ceilings. The glories of the Italian Renaissance, observed by the Valois while making war on their neighbor, were brought to bear on these mega-monuments with all the elegance characteristic of antiquity.

By the time François I (the flamboyant contemporary of England’s Henry VIII) took charge in 1515, extravagance knew no bounds: on a 13,000-acre forest estate, hunting parties at Chambord drew A-list crowds from the far reaches of Europe—and the availability of 430 rooms made weekend entertaining a snap. Queen Claudia hired only the most recherché Italian artisans: Chambord’s famous double-helix staircase may, in fact, have been Leonardo da Vinci’s design (he was a frequent houseguest there when not in residence in a manor on the Amboise grounds). From massive kennels teeming with hunting hounds at Cheverny to luxurious stables at Chaumont-sur-Loire, from endless allées of pollarded lime trees at Villandry to the fanciful towers of Ussé—worthy of Sleeping Beauty herself—the Loire Valley became the power base and social center for the New France, allowing the monarchy to go all out in strutting its stuff.

All for good reason. In 1519 Charles V of Spain, at the age of 19, inherited the Holy Roman Empire, leaving François and his New France out in the cold. It was perhaps no coincidence that in 1519 François, in a grand stab at face-saving one-upmanship, commenced construction on his gigantic Chambord. Centuries later, even the Revolution and the efforts of latter-day socialists have not totally erased a lingering gentility in the people of the region, characterized by an air of refined assurance far removed from the shoulder-shrugging, chest-tapping French stereotypes. Here life proceeds at a pleasingly genteel pace, and—despite the delights of the 1,001 châteaux that await—you should, too.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Step into a fairy tale at Sleeping Beauty’s castle: Play once-upon-a-time at Ussé—gleaming white against an emerald forest backcloth, it’s so beautiful it inspired Perrault’s immortal tale.

Marvel at mighty Chambord: The world’s most impressive rooftop, with a forest of chimneys to match the game-rich woodlands extending in all directions, marks the Loire’s grandest château.

Find splendor in the grass at Villandry: The Renaissance reblooms in these geometric gardens that have been lovingly restored to floricultural magnificence.

Indulge in a bit of romance at Chenonceau: Half bridge, half pleasure palace, this epitome of picturesque France extends across the Cher River, so why not row a boat under its arches?

Revel in medieval magic at Fontevraud: The majestic abbey is the resting place of English kings . . . and a queen.

GETTING ORIENTED

The Loire Valley, which pretty much splits France in two, has been heavily traveled through the ages—once by power-hungry armies and peaceful Santiago pilgrims, now by Bordeaux-bound TGV trains. Yet it retains a relaxing backwater feel that mirrors the river’s languid, meandering flow. Tours is the main gateway to the region, not only for its central position but because the TGV links it with Paris in little more than an hour. Angers (at the west end of the valley) and Orléans (at the east end) are also well connected to the capital by train. Coming to the Loire by rail and renting a car on arrival in any one of these three cities will save you the hassle of Paris traffic, while still letting you enjoy the flexibility of a châteaux driving tour.

WHAT’S WHERE

The Eastern Loire Valley. East from Tours, strung like precious gems along the peaceful Loire, the royal and near-royal châteaux are among the most celebrated sights in France. From magical Chenonceau—improbably suspended above the River Cher—to mighty Chambord, with its 440 rooms, to Amboise (where Leonardo da Vinci breathed his last), this architectural conveyor belt moves up along the southern bank to deposit you at Orléans, burnished to Old World splendor with its pedestrian-only centre ville historique (it was here that Joan of Arc had her most rousing successes against the English). Heading back to Tours on the northern bank, you’ll discover the immense palace at Blois and some of the best hotels in the region.

The Central and Western Loire Valley. Get your fairy-tale fix by castle-hopping among the most beautiful châteaux in France, from Villandry’s fabled gardens to Ussé, which seems to levitate over the unicorn-haunted Forest of Chinon. From the Renaissance jewel of Azay-le-Rideau, continue west to Chinon for a dip in the Middle Ages along its rue Haute St-Maurice—a pop-up illuminated manuscript. Continue time traveling at the 12th-century royal abbey of Fontevraud, resting place of Richard the Lion-Hearted and Eleanor of Aquitaine. Then fast-forward to the 15th century at Saumur’s storybook castle and Angers’s brooding fortress.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

The Loire Valley divides France in two, both geographically and climatically: to the north is the moist, temperate climate of northern Europe; southward lies the drier climate of the Mediterranean. July and August are peak months for tourism, but the weather then can be hot and sultry, and the top attractions can be packed. Moreover, water levels in Europe’s last great undammed river can drop, revealing unsightly sandbanks in midsummer. So the best time to arrive may be in the late spring, when the river still looks like a river and the châteaux gardens are beautifully blooming; or in the fall, when the crowds have thinned and the restaurants menus are showcasing the bounty of harvest and hunt. October is a particularly good off-season option—all is mist and mellow fruitfulness along the Loire and its tributaries.

On Sunday, when most shops are closed, try to avoid the main cities—Orléans, Tours, Angers.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

More than a region in the usual sense, the Loire Valley is just that: a valley. Although most sites are close to the meandering river, it’s a long way—225 km (140 miles)—between Orléans, on the eastern edge, and Angers to the west. If you have 10 days or so you can visit the majority of the destinations we cover. Otherwise we suggest you divide the Valley into three segments and choose the base(s) as your time and tastes dictate. To cover the eastern Loire (Chambord, Cheverny, Chaumont), base yourself in or near Blois. For the central Loire (Amboise, Chenonceaux, Villandry, Azay-le-Rideau), base yourself in or around Tours. For the western Loire (Ussé, Chinon, Fontevraud, Angers), opt for pretty Saumur.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

The regional rail line along the riverbank will get you to the main destinations (Angers, Saumur, Tours, Blois, Orléans, plus 10 more towns); some other châteaux (Chenonceau, Azay, and Chinon among them) are served by branch lines. Occasionally, you may arrive at the rail station and need to take a taxi or bus to get to a site buried deep in the countryside. The bigger inconvenience with train travel is having to build your itinerary around rail routes and constraining timetables. That makes renting a car a particularly practical option. Given the flattish terrain here, hiring a bike may well appeal, too. During the tourist season, local shuttle and coach excursions are also available for day-trippers, many of them departing from Tours.

Bus Travel

Local bus services can provide a link between train stations and scenic areas off the river, making it possible to reach many villages and châteaux. However, routes are often geared to schoolchildren, meaning service is less frequent in summer and sometimes all but nonexistent on Sunday, so only consider the bus if you have no other options. Inquire at tourist offices about routes and timetables, as the bus companies rarely have information available in English. The leading operators are Les Rapides du Val de Loire, based in Orléans; TLC, serving Chambord and Cheverny from Blois; Touraine Fil Vert and Fil Bleu, both of which serve the Touraine region, from Amboise in the east to Chinon in the west; and Anjou Bus.

Bus Information

Anjou Bus. | Esplanade de la gare SNCF, | Angers | 02–41–81–49–72 | www.anjoubus.fr.

Fil Bleu. | 9 rue Michelet, | Tours | 02–47–66–70–70 | www.filbleu.fr.

Les Rapides du Val de Loire. | 11 ave. André Marie Ampère, | St Jean de Braye | 02–38–61–90–00 | www.rvl-info.com.

TLC (Transports du Loir-et-Cher). | 9 rue Alexandre-Vézin, | Blois | 02–54–58–55–44 | www.tlcinfo.net.

Touraine Fil Vert. | Pl. du Géneral Leclerc, | Tours | 02–47–05–30–49 | www.tourainefilvert.com.

Car Travel

The Loire Valley is an easy drive from Paris. A10 runs from the capital to Orléans—a distance of around 125 km (78 miles)—and on to Tours, with exits at Meung, Blois, and Amboise. After Tours, A10 veers south toward Poitiers and Bordeaux. A11 links Paris to Angers and Saumur via Le Mans. Slower but more scenic routes run from the Channel ports down through Normandy into the Loire region. Once here, driving is also the most time-efficient way to see the Loire châteaux—and you won’t have to sacrifice scenic views; N152, which hugs the riverbank, is excellent for sightseeing. Just note that road signs can be few and far between once you get off the main road, and many a traveler has stories about a 15-minute trip lasting two hours. You can rent a car in Paris, in all the large towns in the region, or at train stations in Orléans, Blois, Tours, and Angers.

Train Travel

Train travel is quite helpful when touring the Loire Valley, as there is one line that goes up and down the river. Be aware, though, that not all destinations are served by rail, so a quick cab or bus ride from the nearest station might be needed to complete your trip.

Tours and Angers are both served by the superfast TGV (Trains à Grande Vitesse) from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse, with a travel time of 75 and 95 minutes respectively. Loire Valley TGV trains from Charles-de-Gaulle Airport also go direct to Tours’s suburban station in St-Pierre-des-Corps (2 hrs) and to Angers (2 hrs, 30 mins). Traditional express trains frequently depart from Paris’s Gare d’Austerlitz for Orléans (1 hr) and Blois (1 hr, 25 mins).

The main rail line follows the Loire from Orléans to Angers (2 hrs, 5 mins); there are trains every few hours to Blois, Tours, and Saumur, as well as multiple daily ones to Onzain (for Chaumont), Amboise, and Langeais. Branch lines run from Tours to Chenonceaux (30 mins), Azay-le-Rideau (30 mins), and Chinon (50 mins).

Ask the SNCF for the brochure Les Châteaux de la Loire en Train for more detailed information. Helpful train-schedule brochures are available at most stations.

Train Information

Gare SNCF Angers. | Pl. de la Gare, | Angers | 3635 €0.34 per min.

Gare SNCF Orléans. | Av. de Paris, | Orléans | 3635 €0.34 per min.

Gare SNCF Tours. | Pl. du Général Leclerc, | Tours | 3635 €0.34 per min.

SNCF. | 36–35 [€0.34 per min] | www.voyages-sncf.com.

TGV. | www.tgv.com.

HOTELS

Even before the age of the railway, the Loire Valley drew vacationers from far afield, so there are hundreds of hotels of all types. At the higher end are sumptuous, stylishly converted châteaux, but even these are not as pricey as you might think. Note that most of these are in small villages, and that upscale hotels are in short supply in the major towns. At the lower end is a wide choice of gîtes, bed-and-breakfasts, and small, traditional inns, usually offering terrific value for the money. The Loire Valley is a popular destination, so make reservations well in advance—in July and August, this is essential (and we’re talking weeks in advance, not days).

Be aware that from November through Easter, many properties are closed. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

The Loire region has four area tourist offices. For Chinon and points east, contact the Comité Régional du Tourisme du Centre or L’Agence Départementale du Tourisme de Touraine. For Fontevraud and points west, contact the Comité Départemental du Tourisme de l’Anjou or the Comité Départemental du Tourisme des Pays de la Loire.

Contacts

Comité Départemental du Tourisme de l’Anjou. | Pl. Kennedy, | Angers | 02–41–23–51–51 | www.anjou-tourisme.com.

Comité Départemental du Tourisme des Pays de la Loire. | www.enpaysdelaloire.com.

Comité Régional du Tourisme du Centre. | 37 av. de Paris, | Orléans | 02–38–79–95–00 | www.loirevalleytourism.com.

L’Agence Départementale du Tourisme de Touraine. | 30 rue de la Préfecture, | Tours | 02–47–31–47–48 | www.touraineloirevalley.com.

TOUR OPTIONS

Bus tours of the main châteaux leave daily in summer from Tours and other hubs: tourist offices have the latest times and prices. Readers rave about Acco-Dispo van excursions, which usually include two or three top châteaux; half-day trips start at €23 and depart from Tours or Amboise. Eager for an aerial view? Jet Systems makes helicopter trips over the Loire Valley on Tuesday, Thursday, and weekends from the aerodrome at Dierre, just south of Amboise; per person prices range from €79 (for a 10-minute flight over Chenonceau) to €580 (for a 90-minute survey of the glories of the Loire, including a stop at Chaumont or Le Rivau). France Montgolfières provides a tranquil alternative; its balloon rides over the Loire—costing €189 to €249 per person in high season—last at least 75 minutes, and the experience as a whole takes about three hours. Depending on water levels, you can also sightsee by boat. Croisières de Loire, for one, offers some unique outings; April through October, you can sail the Cher River on a traditional flat-bottom boat from the foot of Chenonceau for just €9.50.

Contacts

Acco-Dispo Tours. | 18 rue des Vallees, | Amboise | 06–82–00–64–51 | www.accodispo-tours.com | From €23.

France Montgolfiéres. | 03–80–97–38–61 | www.franceballoons.com | From €189.

Jet Systems. | L’Aérodrome d’Amboise-Dierre, | Amboise | 08–20–82–06–98 €0.34 per min. | www.jet-systems.fr | From €79.

La Bélandre Croisières. | Maison Eclusière de Chisseaux, | Chisseaux | 02–47–23–98–64 | www.croisieresdeloire.com | From €9.50.

DINING IN THE LOIRE VALLEY

Finesse rather than fireworks marks the gastronomy of this gentle region, known for exceptional white wines, delicate fish, and France’s most bountiful fruits and vegetables.

The serene Loire imposes its placid personality throughout this fertile valley. The weather, too, is calm and cool, ideal for creating the Loire’s diverse and memorable wines, from the elegant and refined Savennières to the mildly sweet, pretty-in-pink rosés of the Anjou. No big, bold, heavily tannic wines here. The culinary repertoire evokes a sense of the good life, with a nod to the royal legacy of châteaux living over centuries past. Many dishes are simply presented, and they couldn’t be better: a perfect pike perch, called sandre, from the river, bathed in a silky beurre-blanc sauce; coq au vin prepared with a fruity red Sancerre; a tender fillet of beef in a Chinon red-wine reduction. It is the wines that highlight the Loire’s gastronomic scene, and these alone justify a trip here, although, of course, you could make time to visit a château or two while you’re in the neighborhood.

Of Cabbages and Kings

The great kitchens of the royal households that set up throughout the Loire planned menus around the magnificent produce that thrives in this fecund region, dubbed the Garden of France. Local cooks still do. There are fat white asparagus in the spring; peas, red cherries, haricots verts, artichokes, and lettuces in the summer; followed by apples, pears, cabbages, and pumpkins in the fall.

White Wines (Reds, Too!)

The Loire region spawns not only dazzling châteaux, but also some of the best wines in France—this is an important region for white-wine lovers, thanks to great chenin blanc and sauvignon blanc grapes. Top white appellations to imbibe, starting at the eastern end of the Loire and moving west, include flinty Sancerres, slightly smoky Pouilly-Fumés, vigorous and complex Vouvrays, distinguished Savennières, sparkling Champagne-style Saumurs, and finally the light, dry Muscadets, perfect with oysters on the half shell.

In the realm of reds, try the raspberry-scented reds of Touraine, the heartier Chinons and Bourgueils, and the elegant rosés of the Anjou. For tastings, just follow the “Dégustation” signs, though it’s always a good idea to call ahead.

Check out Vinci Cave in Amboise ( 02–47–23–41–52 | www.vinci-cave.fr); Charles Joguet in Chinon (02–47–58–55–53 | www.charlesjoguet.com); Bouvet-Ladubay in Saumur ( 02–41–83–83–83 | www.bouvet-ladubay.fr); and the Maison du Vin d’Angers ( 02–41–88–81–13 | www.vinsdeloire.fr).

Tarte Tatin

This luscious “upside-down” apple tart is sometimes claimed by Normandy, but originated, so legend has it, at the Hotel Tatin in the Loire Valley town of Beuvron-Lamotte south of Orléans.

The best tarte Tatins are made with deeply caramelized apples cooked under a buttery short-crust pastry, then inverted and served while still warm.

Beurre Blanc

Made with a shallot, wine vinegar, and fish-stock reduction, and swirled with lots of butter, this iconic white sauce originated in the western Loire about a century ago in the kitchen of an aristocrat whose chef devised this variation on the classic béarnaise. Beurre blanc is the perfect accompaniment to the Loire’s delicate shad and pike.

Chèvre

With your glass of Pouilly Fumé, there are few things better than one of the region’s tangy, herby, and assertive goat cheeses.

Among the best, appellation-controlled and farmhouse-made: the squat, pyramid-shape Pouligny-Saint-Pierre; the creamy, cylindrical Sainte-Maure de Touraine; and the piquant Crottins de Chavignol from Sancerre.

Try a warmed and gooey Crottin atop a salad for a real treat.

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Tours | Loches | Montlouis-sur-Loire | Amboise | Chenonceaux | Chaumont-sur-Loire | Cheverny | Chambord | Orléans | Meung-sur-Loire | Blois

The city of Orléans—halfway along the river’s long route—marks the beginning of the low, rich Val de Loire, the eastern part of which stretches 112 km (70 miles) to the central hub of Tours. All along it, magnificent châteaux built of local tufa (creamy white limestone) during the Middle Ages and Renaissance rise up near the water—including the mightiest of them all, show-stopping Chambord. Sigh-worthy Chenonceau sits further west, while a storied royal château and Leonardo da Vinci’s last home vie for attention in Amboise. Closer to Tours, you can enjoy royal treatment yourself by overnighting in Montlouis-sur-Loire’s blissful Château de la Bourdaisière.

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TOURS

240 km (150 miles) southwest of Paris.

Home to about 150,000 residents, Tours is the region’s largest city and its commercial center. Vacationers concerned only with the quaint may be put off by the modern sprawl of factories, high-rise blocks, and overhead expressway junctions cluttering up the outskirts; however, Tours does have a lot to offer. Being a transportation hub, it’s a practical base—trains run along the river in both directions, and the city is the starting point for many organized bus excursions. Moreover, Tours has a distinct energy, thanks to the university students who make up a fourth of its population and help to fill the many cafés, bars, and eateries in the pedestrian-only Vielle Ville. There’s history here as well. Although much of the city was bombed in World War II, the attractive half-timber medieval quarter around place Plumereau has been smartly restored, and Tours’s grand cathedral ranks among France’s finest.

Getting Here

Tours is the Loire Valley rail hub. Six direct TGVs from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse arrive daily, covering 240 km (150 miles) in 75 minutes (€54). A cheaper, slower alternative is the four-times-daily Intercities service from Gare d’Austerlitz, which takes around two hours but costs only €15 to €35. Frequent trains also connect Tours to Chinon (50 mins, €9.70), Langeais (20 mins, €5.60), Amboise (20 mins, €5.60), Saumur (45 mins, €12), Chenonceaux (30 mins, €6.80), Azay-le-Rideau (30 mins, €5.80), Blois (35–45 mins, €10.90), and other towns.

Visitor Information

Tours Tourist Office. | 78-82 rue Bernard-Palissy | 02–47–70–37–37 | www.tours-tourisme.fr.

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EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Cathédral St-Gatien.

Built between 1239 and 1484, this noted cathedral, one of the greatest churches of the Loire Valley, reveals a mixture of architectural styles. The richly sculpted stonework of its majestic two-tower facade betrays the Renaissance influence on local château-trained craftsmen. The stained glass dates from the 13th century (if you have binoculars, bring them). Also take a look at the little tomb with kneeling angels built in memory of Charles VIII and Anne of Brittany’s two children; and the Cloître de La Psalette (Psalm Cloister, €3), on the south side of the cathedral, where the canons of St-Gatien created some of the most beautiful illuminated manuscripts in medieval Europe. | Rue Lavoisier | 02–47–47–05–19 | www.la-psalette.monuments-nationaux.fr | Apr., Mon.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–5:30, Sun. 2–5:30; May–Aug., Mon.–Sat. 9:30–12:30 and 2–6, Sun. 2–6; Sept.–Mar., Wed.–Sat. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5, Sun.–Tues. 2–5.

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Candé.

When King Edward VIII of England abdicated his throne in 1937 to marry the American divorcée Wallace Simpson, the couple chose to escape the international limelight and exchange their wedding vows at this elegant 16th-century château. Although it’s decorated with period furnishings and features Art Deco bathrooms, all eyes are drawn to the mementos from the Duke and Duchess of Windsor’s stay (including the famous Cecil Beaton photographs taken on the big day). Fashionistas will also appreciate the haute couture wardrobe compiled by the stylish lady of the house, Fern Bedaux. Befitting the owners’ flawless taste (if questionable politics, as the Bedauxs were known fascist sympathizers), the château is a particularly pretty example of late Gothic style. | 10 km (6 miles) southwest of Tours, Monts | 02–47–34–03–70 | www.domainecande.fr | €6.50 | Mid-Apr.–June and Sept., Wed.–Sun. 10:30–12:30 and 1:30–6 (gardens until 7); July and Aug., daily 10:30–7 (gardens until 9); Oct.–mid-Nov., Wed.–Sun. 1–5 (château and gardens).

Fodor’s Choice | Place Plumereau.

North from the Basilique St-Martin to the river is Le Vieux Tours. This lovely medieval quarter—a warren of quaint streets, wood-beam houses, and grand mansions once owned by 15th-century merchants—has been gentrified with chic apartments and pedestrianized streets. It’s centered around the place Plumereau, Tours’s erstwhile carroi aux chapeaux (hat market). Local college students and tourists alike love to linger in its cafés, and the buildings rimming the square have become postcard staples. Nos. 1 through 7 form a magnificent series of half-timber houses; note the wood carvings of royal moneylenders on Nos. 11 and 12. At the top of the square a vaulted passageway leads to the medieval place St-Pierre-le-Puellier. Running off the place Plumereau are other streets adorned with historic houses, notably Rue Briçonnet—at No. 16 is the Maison de Tristan, with a medieval staircase. | Bordered by Rues du Commerce, Briçonnet, de la Monnaie, and du Grand-Marché.

Worth Noting

Basilique St-Martin.

Only two sturdy towers—the Tour Charlemagne and the Tour de l’Horloge (Clock Tower)—remain of the great medieval abbey built over the tomb of St. Martin, the city’s fourth-century bishop and patron saint. Most of the abbey, which once dominated the heart of Tours, was razed during the French Revolution. Today the site is occupied by the bombastic neo-Byzantine Basilique St-Martin, which was completed in 1924. There’s a shrine to St. Martin in the crypt. | Rue Descartes | 02–47–05–63–87 | www.basiliquesaintmartin.com.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

In what was once the archbishop’s palace (built into an ancient Roman wall), this museum features an eclectic selection of furniture, sculpture, wrought-iron work, plus art by Rubens, Rembrandt, Boucher, Degas, and Calder. A favorite is Fritz the Elephant, stuffed in 1902. | 18 pl. François-Sicard | 02–47–05–68–82 | www.mba.tours.fr | €5; €8 with Musée St-Martin and Musée du Compagnonnage | Wed.–Mon. 9–12:45 and 2–6.

Musée du Compagnonnage (Guild Museum).

Housed in the cloisters of the 13th-century church of St-Julien, this collection honors the Compagnonnage, a sort of apprenticeship-cum-trade-union system. On display you’ll see virtuoso 19th-century works produced by candidates for guild membership, some of them eccentric (an Eiffel Tower made of slate, for instance, and a château constructed of varnished noodles). | 8 rue Nationale | 02–47–21–62–20 | www.museecompagnonnage.fr | €5.30; €8 with Musée des Beaux Arts and Musée St-Martin | Mid-June–mid-Sept., daily 9–12:30 and 2–6; mid-Sept.–mid-June, Wed.–Mon., 9–12:30 and 2–6.

Musée St-Martin.

Old mosaics and Romanesque sculptures from the former abbey are on display in this small museum, which occupies a restored 13th-century chapel that adjoined the abbey cloisters. Exhibits retrace the abbey’s long saga and the life of the titular saint, who founded France’s first Benedictine abbey just outside Tours in the fourth century. The chapel location is fitting since the word “chapel” actually derives from the legend of Martin. As a young Roman soldier he shared his cape (or “capella”) with a beggar and then had a vision of Jesus; small churches holding relics of the cape became known as chapels, and soon all small churches took the name. | 3 rue Rapin | 02–47–64–48–87 | www.tours.fr/137-musee-saint-martin.htm | €2; €8 with Musée des Beaux-Arts and Musée du Compagnonnage | Mid-Mar.–mid-Nov., Wed.–Sun. 10–1 and 2–5:30.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Petit Patrimoine.

BISTRO | Locals in the know reserve well in advance to get a table at this tiny restaurant in Vieux Tours, which specializes in traditional regional cuisine. Don’t miss Balzac’s much-loved Rillons de Tours, a glazed pork dish, and the delicious St-Maure goat cheese. | Average main: €24 | 58 rue Colbert | 02–47–66–05–81 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon.

L’Odéon.

MODERN FRENCH | Enjoy traditional Loire Valley haute cuisine prepared with modern flair in the heart of Tours. Flavors can be surprising, such as fresh lobster with truffle sauce and walnut oil, roast Iberian lomo in a red onion and vin doux (fortified wine) fricassee, or roasted sea bass with rhubarb and shrimp sauce. TIP The Art Deco setting is not particularly romantic, so come at lunch (when you can take advantage of the great midday menus) rather than paying more for dinner. | Average main: €32 | 10 pl. du Général Leclerc | 02–47–20–12–65 | www.restaurant-lodeon.com | Closed Sat. lunch and Sun.

Domaine de la Tortinière.

RESORT | This was reportedly one of Audrey Hepburn’s favorites, and you can immediately see why: the neo-Gothic château, sitting atop a vast, sloping lawn, features a pair of fairy-tale towers, Louis Seize public salons, and soigné guest rooms—some in the turrets, others in the smartly converted stables and servants’ quarters. Most beds are so comfy that it would be hard to rise in the morning if it wasn’t for the beckoning vistas, which include a lovely pool tucked onto a grassy terrace. The stylish rotunda restaurant looks out over the lawn and showcases Jean-Baptiste Drey-Blum and Damien Pionchot’s cuisine, including medallions of line-caught sea-bass with leeks in aspic and gribiche sauce (no dinner Sunday, November through March). Pros: gourmet restaurant; romantic setting; luxurious Louis XVI style. Cons: some rooms on the small side; a bit off the beaten track. | Rooms from: €180 | 10 rte. de Ballan-Miré, 12 km (7 miles) south of Tours | Veigné | 02–47–34–35–00 | www.tortiniere.com | 24 rooms, 6 suites | Closed mid-Dec.–Feb. | No meals.

L’Adresse.

HOTEL | These guest rooms in the heart of Tours’s Old Town, a block from half-timbered Place Plumereau and the open-air market, have a fresh look and a pleasant neutral palette; some have whitewashed wood-beam ceilings, while others have Juliet balconies. Bathrooms are contemporary, and breakfast is served in the rooms or in the bright dining room overlooking the pedestrian street. Pros: central location in Vieux Tours; flat-screen TVs and air-conditioning. Cons: student district can be very noisy at night; no parking. | Rooms from: €78 | 12 rue de la Rôtisserie | 02–47–20–85–76 | www.hotel-ladresse.com | 17 rooms | Some meals.

Les Hautes Roches.

HOTEL | Far from their original role as monastic cells and even farther from the Flinstone-influenced idea of cave dwellings, these luxe-troglodyte lodgings—with their limestone walls, Louis Treize seating, rich fabrics, carved fireplaces, gas-lantern lamps, finished marble steps, and riverside setting—are the epitome of quiet luxury amid the soothing elements of stone and water. The twelve rooms in caves benefit from large windows, a natural stone fragrance, and naturally cool temperatures—even in summer. Some prefer the three rooms in the regular house—no cave-dwelling drama, but exquisitely comfortable and air-conditioned. The Michelin-starred restaurant, with an enchanting terrace, offers elegant fare and overlooks the lovely pool. A favored country residence for rich Parisians, Rochecorbon is a treat (once off the main traffic road), thanks to its pretty town center, vineyards, and a “Bateaux Promenade” (boat ride) on the Loire. Pros: unique troglodyte setting; river views; fabulous gourmet restaurant with terrace. Cons: apprentice-style service; busy road (hidden by shrubs) in front of hotel. | Rooms from: €225 | 86 quai de la Loire, 5 km (3 miles) east of Tours | Rochecorbon | 02–47–52–88–88 | www.leshautesroches.com | 15 rooms | Closed mid-Jan.–Mar. | Some meals.

Mondial.

HOTEL | These contemporary rooms, decorated in neutral tones with red or floral accents, are all on the small side, but they are nicely tucked away on a small leafy square 300 yards from the Loire and a five-minute walk from the historic Place Plumereau. Pros: free Wi-Fi; good location; friendly service; good value. Cons: noise from downstairs nightclub Wednesday–Sunday nights until 5 am; restricted reception hours. | Rooms from: €72 | 3 pl. de la Résistance | 02–47–05–62–68 | www.hotelmondialtours.com | 20 rooms | No meals.

LOCHES

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Citadelle.

It is easy to see why Loches, set on a rocky spur overlooking the Indre valley, became the 11th-century fief of Foulques Nerra, the warrior Comte d’Anjou. A “Cité Royale,” Loche came to be adorned with a bevy of gorgeously picturesque medieval and Renaissance-era structures—none more imposing than its famous Citadelle, one of the most complete medieval fortifications extant, bristling with portcullises, posterns, keeps, and crenellated ramparts. Sections of these defensive walls are well preserved and function as part of the town.

By the 15th century Loches had become a pleasure dome. Charles VII and his famous amour, Agnés Sorel, set up shop in the town château, the Logis Royal, located on the north end of the citadel, and proceeded to set the style for much of courtly France with unmatched opulence, Italianate art, and the country’s top painter, Jean Fouquet. Great hostess that she was, Agnés might have cottoned to the château’s son-et-lumière show, presented during July and August and featuring a goodly chunk of Loches’s population in chivalric tableaux.

Elsewhere in town are other historic sights (some with separate admissions): the Donjon of Fouques Nerra; the Tour Ronde of Louis XI (with its horrifying dungeons and their fillettes, or cages); a medieval-style garden; the massive Romanesque church of Collegiale St-Ours (on Rue Thomas-Pactius); a magnificent Renaissance-period Hôtel de Ville, built for François I; and the Maison Lansyer, beautifully set into the town ramparts and fitted out with 19th-century salons filled with the works of painter Emmanuel Lansyer (1835–93). There’s also a lively night market during July and August.

TIP More than a dozen daily buses and a few trains link Loches to Tours. Upon arrival, be sure to get a map of the town from the tourist office—nearly every street will lead you to medieval drawbridges, ancient houses (the Maison d’Agnés Sorel is at 19 rue du Château), and towering ramparts. | Pl. Charles-VII | 02–47–59–07–86 | www.loches-tourainecotesud.com | Donjon and Logis Royal: €8.50 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9–7; Oct.–Mar., daily 9:30–5.

MONTLOUIS-SUR-LOIRE

11 km (7 miles) east of Tours on south bank of the Loire.

Montlouis—like Vouvray, its sister town on the north side of the Loire—is noted for white wines, and you can learn all about the vintages produced here at the Cave Touristique on place Courtemanche. Afterward, retreat to the Château de la Bourdaisière, Prince Louis-Albert de Broglie’s suitably regal hotel on the eastern side of town (even day-trippers who can’t spend a night, can visit it on a guided tour).

Getting Here

Touraine Fil Vert’s Line C bus runs from the Tours bus station to Montlouis-sur-Loire and the Château de la Bourdaisière (30 mins, €2.20); since the town is only 11 km (7 miles) from Tours, a taxi is a faster option.

Visitor Information

Montlouis-sur-Loire Tourist Office. | 4 pl. Abraham Courtemanche | 02–47–45–85–10 | www.tourisme-montlouis-loire.fr.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Château de la Bourdaisière.

HOTEL | A 15th-century, 100-carat jewel of a castle, once the favored retreat of kings François I and Henri IV, is today the luxurious country setting for the Prince de Broglie’s hotel—a magnificent place that magically distills all the grace, warmth, and élan of la vie de châteaux as no other. Prince Louis-Albert is scion of one of France’s top families (two prime ministers and one Nobel Prize winner, at last count) and one of Paris’s most famed biodiversity preservationists, who here cultivates 650 types of tomatoes in the château’s potager (vegetable garden). It’s not surprising, then, to find the three main public salons suavely done up in shades of tomato red, sumptuously offsetting such accents as an immense marble fireplace, majestic taxidermied animals, and curio cabinet objects collected by the prince. Inside the neo-Renaissance castle, guest rooms range from the grand—François-Premier is a timber-roof cottage blown up to ballroom dimensions—to more standard-issue, yet always stylish salons (garden-view rooms away from the gravel driveway are best). Cheaper rooms are found in the adjoining 17th-century “stables” fitted out with a gardening shop and a tiny eatery (lunch only, June–September). And don’t overlook the enormous secluded pool—a gift from above during hot summer days. Pros: exquisite setting; secluded pool; stylish salons; extensive and “eco”-style gardens. Cons: only offers quick and casual lunches; rooms lack air-conditioning; town is a bore. | Rooms from: €170 | 25 rue de la Bourdaisière | 02–47–45–16–31 | www.chateaulabourdaisiere.com | 17 rooms, 3 suites | Closed mid-Nov.–Mar.

AMBOISE

13 km (8 miles) northeast of Montlouis via D751, 24 km (15 miles) east of Tours.

It is hardly surprising that this hub town is considered a must-see on any Val de Loire itinerary. Crowned by a royal château that’s soaked in history (and blood), Amboise also happens to be the site of Leonardo da Vinci’s final home, the pretty Clos-Lucé. As if that wasn’t enough, it has bustling markets plus an enviable selection of hotels and eateries. The caveat? On hot summer days, the plethora of tour buses turns this Renaissance town into mass of carbon monoxide.

Getting Here

Amboise has frequent train connections with Tours (20 mins, €5.60), Blois (20 mins, €7), and many other towns on the main rail route, which follows the banks of the river. From Amboise’s station, follow the signs across two bridges to the centre ville and place Richelieu.

Visitor Information

Amboise Tourist Office. | Quai du Général-de-Gaulle | 02–47–57–09–28 | www.amboise-valdeloire.com.

EXPLORING

Château d’Amboise.

The Château d’Amboise became a royal palace in the 15th and 16th centuries. Charles VII stayed here, as did the unfortunate Charles VIII, best remembered for banging his head on a low doorway lintel (you will be shown it) and dying as a result. The gigantic Tour des Minimes drops down the side of the cliff, enclosing a massive circular ramp designed to lead horses and carriages up the steep hillside. François I, whose long nose appears in so many château paintings, based his court here, inviting Leonardo da Vinci as his guest. The castle was also the stage for the Amboise Conspiracy, an ill-fated Protestant plot against François II; you’re shown where the corpses of the conspirators dangled from the castle walls. Partly due to the fact that most interior furnishings have been lost, most halls here are haunted and forlorn. The maze of underground passages are opened to the public for guided visits (April–September). But don’t miss the lovely grounds, adorned with a Flamboyant Gothic gem, the little chapel of St-Hubert with its carvings of the Virgin and Child, Charles VIII, and Anne of Brittany, and once graced by the tomb of Leonardo. Audio guides are available for €4. | 08–20–20–50–50 €.09 per min | www.chateau-amboise.com | €10.70 | Mid-Nov.–Jan., daily 9–12:30 and 2–4:45; Feb., daily 9–12:30 and 1:30–5; Mar. and Nov. 1–15, daily 9–5:30; Apr.–June, 9–6:30; Sept.–Oct., daily 9–6; July and Aug., daily 9–7.

Clos Lucé.

If you want to see where “the 20th century was born”—as the curators here like to proclaim—head to the Clos Lucé, about 600 yards up Rue Victor-Hugo from the château. Here, in this handsome Renaissance manor, Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519) spent the last four years of his life, tinkering away at inventions, amusing his patron, King François I, and gazing out over a garden that was planted in the most fashionable Italian manner (it was completely restored in 2008 to contain plants and trees found in his sketches, as well as a dozen full-size renderings of machines he designed). The Halle Interactive contains working models, built by IBM engineers using the artist’s detailed notebooks, of some of Leonardo’s extraordinary inventions; by this time Leonardo had put away his paint box because of arthritis. Mechanisms on display include three-speed gearboxes, a military tank, a clockwork car, and a flying machine complete with designs for parachutes. Cloux, the house’s original name, was given to Anne of Brittany by Charles VIII, who built a chapel for her that is still here. Some of the house’s furnishings are authentically 16th century—indeed, thanks to the artist’s presence this house was one of the first places where the Italian Renaissance made inroads in France: Leonardo’s Mona Lisa and Virgin of the Rocks, both of which once graced the walls here, were bought by the king, who then moved them to the Louvre. | 2 rue du Clos-Lucé | 02–47–57–00–73 | www.vinci-closluce.com | €14 | Sept., Oct., and Feb.–June, daily 9–7; July and Aug., daily 9–8; Nov.–Dec., daily 9–6; Jan., daily 10–6.

FAMILY | Pagode de Chanteloup.

Just 3 km (2 miles) south of Amboise on the road to Chenonceaux, the Pagode de Chanteloup is a remarkable sight—a 140-foot, seven-story Chinese-style lakeside pagoda built for the Duke of Choiseul in 1775. Children will adore puffing their way to the top for the vertigo-inducing views, but some adults will find the climb—and the 400-yard walk from the parking lot—a little arduous. You can rent a little row boat (€5 per hour) to float across the adjoining lake. This is worth a quick stop if you’re in the area already. | Rte. de Bléré | 02–47–57–20–97 | www.pagode-chanteloup.com | €10 | Mid-Feb.–Mar., weekends 2–5; Apr., daily 10–6:30; May, June, and Sept., daily 10–7; July and Aug., daily 9:30–7.30; Oct.–mid-Nov., weekdays 10–noon and 2–5, weekends 10–5; closed mid-Nov.–mid-Feb.

WHERE TO STAY

Château de Noizay.

HOTEL | Filled with the mystery of the past—this was once the fabled redoubt of the Protestant plotters in the 1559 Amboise Conspiracy—Château de Noizay is fitted out with Renaissance chimneys and salons, a parterre garden, and guest rooms so regal that you may feel like bowing or curtsying to the staff. The adjacent 19th-century “Clock House” is a gracious pastel-hue haven. Noizay itself is a tiny, off-the-beaten-path treasure—don’t miss the idyllic countryside hike down Rue François-Poulenc, past the famous composer’s pretty 18th-century house, a troglodyte hamlet, and endless poppy fields right out of a Monet painting. Pros: historic ambience; excellent restaurant. Cons: some rooms have faded decor; high rates for the countryside. | Rooms from: €220 | Promenade de Waulsort, 8 km (5 miles) west of Tours | Noizay | 02–47–52–11–01 | www.chateaudenoizay.com | 14 rooms | Closed mid-Jan.–mid-Mar. | All meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Pray.

HOTEL | Like a Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud, this hotel keeps purring along, decade after decade, offering many delights: a romantic twin-tower château, a Loire River vista, tranquil guest rooms (four of the less expensive are in a charming “Pavillon Renaissance”), and an excellent restaurant. Fifty years ago Loire Valley guidebooks praised this domain, and things have only gotten better. Chef Frédéric Brisset’s Michelin-starred restaurant is set in two salons, one in Charles-Dix golds, the other lighted with chandeliers and stained-glass windows, lined with tapestries, and spectacularly centered around a neo-Gothic, sculpted-wood fireplace. Be sure to reserve in advance. Pros: marvelous setting; superlative restaurant; open year-round. Cons: service can be haughty; no bar. | Rooms from: €149 | Rue du Cèdre, 4 km (2 miles) east of Amboise | Chargé | 02–47–57–23–67 | praycastel.online.fr | 17 rooms, 2 suites | Some meals.

Le Blason.

HOTEL | Two blocks behind Château d’Amboise and a five-minute walk from the town center, this small hotel in a 15th-century building has welcoming, English-speaking owners and the gentlest prices in town. Accommodations come in assorted shapes and sizes: Room No. 229 has exposed beams and a cathedral ceiling, while No. 109 is comfortably spacious with a good view of the square. The on-site restaurant, L’Alliance (closed mid-November to mid-April), serves well-priced three-course menus, which might include dishes like local guinea fowl in a shiitake cream sauce or salmon carpaccio with mustard dressing. But beware: you must arrive by 8:45 for dinner. Pros: quaint; families welcome; good value. Cons: small bathrooms; traffic noise in some rooms. | Rooms from: €53 | 11 pl. Richelieu | 02–47–23–22–41 | www.leblason.fr | 27 rooms | Closed mid-Jan.–mid-Feb. | Some meals.

Le Manoir Les Minimes.

HOTEL | Soigné as can be, this stylish 18th-century manoir is lucky enough to preside over a Loire riverbank under the shadow of Amboise’s great cliff-side château, offering a calm oasis in a busy town center. Set within its own compound, it looks like it’s on sabbatical from a Fragonard landscape. Inside, the grand staircase, dining room, and main salon are all a-dazzle in daffodil-yellow silks and gilt-framed mirrors, with ruby accents of Louis Seize sofas and bergères. The “classic,” more modern guest rooms in the Pavillon are pleasant enough, but try to spring for the showpieces, such as the Suite Prestige (in a stunning blue toile de Jouy), or one with a view over the Loire River. Pros: historic style; flawlessly elegant. Cons: overpriced breakfast (€16–€20); no outside food and drink allowed. | Rooms from: €139 | 34 quai Charles-Guinot | 02–47–30–40–40 | www.manoirlesminimes.com | 13 rooms, 2 suites | Closed mid-Nov.–Dec. and last wk of Jan.–mid. Feb. | No meals.

Le Pavillon des Lys.

HOTEL | An elegant yet laid-back atmosphere defines this stately 18th-century pavilion in the center of Amboise, where airy guest rooms may be done in classic 1930s or contemporary boutique-hotel style; some retain original architectural accents, like exposed beams or heavy wood mouldings, and all have refurbished, retro-looking bathrooms. Breakfast (€14) can be taken in the salon or on the lovely terrace. Pros: king-size beds; château views from the terrace. Cons: no on-site restaurant or bar. | Rooms from: €135 | 9 rue d’Orange | 02–47–30–01–01 | www.pavillondeslys.com | 4 rooms, 4 suites | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Vieux Manoir.

B&B/INN | Toile de Jouy screens, gilt-framed paintings, comfy Napoléon III covered-in-jute armchairs, timeworn armoires, and tables adorned with Shaker baskets make this extraordinary inn—run by native Californian owner Gloria—House Beautiful (and prolonged stay) worthy. Each chamber is a delight: a bleached redbrick chimney and red-and-white calico accent one, while ceiling beams and a French Provincial four-poster bed warm another. Two separate cottages offer cooking facilities and sleep up to four. All this noted, you might spend more time by the fountain in the leafy garden—a Monet canvas come to life—or the immensely stylish library, the ultimate welcome mat for this delightful auberge. Pros: real style; scrumptious complimentary breakfasts served in glassed-in conservatoire. Cons: steep staircase; many “house rules.” | Rooms from: €160 | 13 rue Rabelais | 02–47–30–41–27 | www.le-vieux-manoir.com | 6 rooms, 2 cottages | Breakfast.

CHENONCEAUX

12 km (8 miles) southeast of Amboise via D81, 32 km (20 miles) east of Tours.

Getting Here

Eleven trains run daily between Tours and Chenonceaux (30 mins, €6.80). The station is a one-minute walk from the front gates of the château; across the tracks is the one-road town.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Chenonceau.

Achingly beautiful, the Château de Chenonceau has long been considered the “most romantic” of all the Loire châteaux, thanks in part to its showpiece—a breathtaking galerie de bal that spans the River Cher like a bridge. The gallery was used as an escape point for French Resistance fighters during World War II, since all other crossings had been bombed. Set in the village of Chenonceaux (spelled with an x) on the River Cher, this was the fabled retreat for the dames de Chenonceau, Diane de Poitiers, Catherine de’ Medici, and Mary, Queen of Scots. Happily spending at least half a day wandering through the château and grounds, you can see that this monument has an undeniable feminine touch. During the peak summer season the only drawback is the château’s popularity: if you want to avoid a roomful of schoolchildren, take a stroll on the grounds and come back to the house at lunchtime.

More pleasure palace than fortress, the château was built in 1520 by Thomas Bohier, a wealthy tax collector, for his wife, Catherine Briçonnet. When he went bankrupt, it passed to François I. Later, Henri II gave it to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. After his death, Henri’s not-so-understanding widow, Catherine de’ Medici, expelled Diane to nearby Chaumont and took back the château. Before this time, Diane’s five-arched bridge over the River Cher was simply meant as a grand ceremonial entryway leading to a gigantic château, a building never constructed. It was to Catherine, and her architect, Philibert de l’Orme, that historians owe the audacious plan to transform the bridge itself into the most unusual château in France. Two stories were constructed over the river, including an enormous gallery that runs from one end of the château to the other. This design might seem the height of originality but, in fact, was inspired by Florence’s covered Ponte Vecchio bridge, commissioned by a Medici queen homesick for her native town.

July and August are the peak months at Chenonceau: Only then can you escape the madding crowds by exiting at the far end of the gallery to walk along the opposite bank (weekends only), rent a rowboat to spend an hour just drifting in the river (where Diane used to enjoy her morning dips), and enjoy the Promenade Nocturne, an evocative son et lumière performed in the illuminated château gardens.

Before you go inside, pick up an English-language leaflet at the gate. Then walk around to the right of the main building to see the harmonious, delicate architecture beyond the formal garden—the southern part belonged to Diane de Poitiers, the northern was Catherine’s—with the river gliding under the arches (providing superb “air-conditioning” to the rooms above). Inside the château are splendid ceilings, colossal fireplaces, scattered furnishings, and paintings by Rubens, del Sarto, and Correggio. The curatorial staff have delightfully dispensed with velvet ropes and adorned some of the rooms with bouquets designed in 17th-century style. As you tour the salons, be sure to pay your respects to former owner Madame Dupin, tellingly captured in Nattier’s charming portrait: Thanks to the affection she inspired among her proletarian neighbors, the château and its treasures survived the Revolution intact (her grave is enshrined near the northern embankment). The château’s history is illustrated with wax figures in the Musée des Cires (Waxwork Museum) in one of the château’s outbuildings. A cafeteria, tearoom, and the ambitious Orangerie restaurant handle the crowds’ varied appetites. | 02–47–23–90–07 | www.chenonceau.com | Château €11; including Musée des Cires, €13; night visit of gardens €6 | Mid-Feb.– Mar., daily 9:30–5:30; Apr. and May, daily 9–7; June and Sept., daily 9–7:30; July and Aug., daily 9–8; Oct., daily 9–6; Nov.–Mid-Feb., daily 9:30–5.

WHERE TO STAY

La Roseraie.

HOTEL | Set around a vast pool terrace and within walking distance of the château, these delightful guest rooms designed with florals, checks, and lace are overseen by charming (and English-speaking) hosts Sabine Müller and Thierry Bellanger. Copious gourmet meals served in the wood-beam dining room (no dinner Tuesday) often include homemade foie gras, duck with fruit and honey, and apple tart. Try to get a garden-side room, and, if car traffic bothers you, be sure to avoid the rooms overlooking the main street. Pros: wonderful welcome; free Wi-Fi; verdant setting. Cons: some rooms in separate block; street noise in some rooms. | Rooms from: €85 | 7 rue du Dr-Bretonneau | 02–47–23–90–09 | www.hotel-chenonceau.com | 13 rooms, 2 suites | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Bon Laboureur.

HOTEL | In 1882 this ivy-covered inn won Henry James’s praise, and thanks to four generations of the Jeudi family, the author might be even more impressed today—this remains one of the Loire’s most wonderful auberges, with guest rooms enchantingly accented in toile de Jouy fabrics and Redouté pink-and-blue pastels. Rooms in the main house are comfortably sized (a few overlook the main street—avoid these if you are a light sleeper); those in the former stables are larger (some overlook a pert vegetable garden) and more renovated; but our favorites are the quaint quarters in the separate patio house near the terrace. Bag a table in the “old” dining room (not the more modern ones), whose wood-beam ceiling, glazed terra-cotta walls, and Louis XVI chairs are almost as elegant as chef Antoine Jeudi’s entrees. Pros: charming decor; outstanding food. Cons: small bathrooms; some rooms overlook busy road. | Rooms from: €134 | 6 rue du Dr-Bretonneau | 02–47–23–90–02 | www.bonlaboureur.com | 25 rooms | Closed mid-Jan.–mid-Feb. | Some meals.

Which Château Is Right for You?

We admit it—there are almost too many châteaux in this part of France. It’s nearly impossible to see all of them, so we’ve noted the prime characteristics of the best to help you decide which you’d most like to visit.

•  Amboise: Powerful, haunted, and nearly empty, this was the birthplace of the French Renaissance but loses out in charm to the adjacent Clos-Lucé manor, where Leonardo da Vinci lived out his last years.

•  Angers: An impenetrable curtain wall and massive towers protect this muscular 13th-century fortress, home to the famed Apocalypse tapestries.

•  Azay-le-Rideau: With Rapunzel turrets, a moat, and an Italianate facade, this charming Renaissance castle is right out of a fairy tale. Toy-size, it has pretty Gothic-style salons and nightly sound-and-light shows.

•  Blois: Big and bombastic, this shows the evolution from the Middle Ages to the Neoclassic.

•  Candé: A storybook illustration come to life, this tiny “faux” château is where the Duke of Windsor married Wallis Simpson in 1937.

•  Chambord: Built for François I, the largest of the Loire Valley châteaux immediately takes your breath away. Fascinating salons, equestrian parades, and a sound-and-light show make this a wow.

•  Chaumont-sur-Loire: This dramatic hill-top château combining Gothic fortifications with Renaissance style has a masculine touch despite once belonging to Catherine de’ Medici. Inside is ravishing neo-Gothic decor; outside, April to November, a famed garden show.

•  Chenonceau: Instantly recognized by its ballroom gallery spanning the Cher River, the magnificent “Château des Dames” was owned by famed chatelaines and still maintains a feminine touch with enormous bouquets, fanciful decor, and vast gardens.

•  Cheverny: Ornate and très elegant, this 17th-century château has opulent salons for adults and hunting hounds’ kennels and a Tintin exhibition for the kids.

•  Chinon: This brooding 12th-century fortress, perched high over the beautiful medieval town, is where Joan of Arc met with the future King Charles VII in 1429—renovations have brought it back to its former glory.

•  Saché: Set in a pretty hamlet and long-time home to writer Honoré de Balzac, this feels more like a sturdy country manor than a grand edifice.

•  Saumur: Panoramic views over its eponymous river are worth a hike up to this gorgeously Gothic château on a cliff above Saumur (the interior is under renovation but still open for visits). Ussé: A cinematic extravaganza, this is the most magical château of them all. It inspired Charles Perrault’s (and Walt Disney’s) “Sleeping Beauty,” and the waxwork figurines in the turrets do give it the feel of a Disney set.

•  Villandry: A true Renaissance palace, this family-owned château is famed for its vast themed gardens, replete with stunning topiaries and Cinderella pumpkins.

CHAUMONT-SUR-LOIRE

26 km (16 miles) northeast of Chenonceaux via D176/D62, 21 km (13 miles) southwest of Blois.

Once belonging to Catherine de’ Medici, this dramatic hill-top château combines Gothic fortifications with Renaissance style. After touring the stunning interior, be sure to explore the grounds—they’re especially gorgeous during the garden show, held annually from April to November.

Getting Here

Fifteen trains per day travel from Tours to Onzain Chaumont-sur-Loire, just across the river from the châtéau (30 mins, €8.60); ones from Blois are even more frequent (10 mins, €3.60).

EXPLORING

Château de Chaumont.

Although a favorite of Loire connoisseurs, the 16th-century Château de Chaumont is often overlooked by visitors who are content to ride the conveyor belt of big châteaux like Chambord and Chenonceau. It’s their loss. Set on a dramatic bluff that towers over the river, Chaumont has always cast a spell—perhaps literally so. One of its fabled owners, Catherine de’ Medici, occasionally came here with her court “astrologer,” the notorious Ruggieri. In one of Chaumont’s bell-tower rooms, the queen reputedly practiced sorcery. Whether or not Ruggieri still haunts the place (or Nostradamus, another on Catherine’s guest list), there seem to be few castles as spirit-warm as this one.

Built by Charles II d’Amboise between 1465 and 1510, the château greets visitors with glorious, twin-tower châtelets—twin turrets that frame a double drawbridge. The castle became the residence of Henri II. After his death his widow Catherine de’ Medici took revenge on his mistress, the fabled beauty Diane de Poitiers, and forced her to exchange Chenonceau for Chaumont. Another “refugee” was the late-18th-century writer Madame de Staël. Exiled from Paris by Napoléon, she wrote De l’Allemagne (On Germany) here, a book that helped kick-start the Romantic movement in France. In the 19th century her descendants, the Prince and Princess de Broglie, set up regal shop, as you can still see from the stone-and-brick stables, where purebred horses (and one elephant) lived like royalty in velvet-lined stalls. The couple also renovated many rooms in the glamorous neo-Gothic style of the 1870s. Today the castle retains a sense of fantasy: witness the contemporary art installations displayed in different rooms or the latest horticultural innovations showcased during the Festival International des Jardins (€12), held from April to November in the extensive park. TIP The château is a stiff walk up a long path from the little village of Chaumont-sur-Loire, but cars and taxis can also drop you off at the top of the hill. | 02–54–20–99–22 | www.domaine-chaumont.fr | €10.50 (€16 for combined château-festival entrance) | Apr.–June, Sept., daily 10–5:45; July and Aug., daily 10–6:15; Oct., daily 10–5:15; Nov.–Mar., daily 10–4:15.

WHERE TO STAY

Domaine des Hauts-de-Loire.

HOTEL | Turreted and vine-covered, this 18th-century hunting lodge features an antiques-filled grand salon, a lovely pool, an adorable swan lake, and guest rooms that more often than not are simply beige and elegantly suave; those in the adjacent coach house can be considerably more spectacular—the best have exposed brick walls and timbered cathedral ceilings. Other amenities include a helipad, the most blissful air-conditioning in all Touraine, and a restaurant (closed Monday, Tuesday, and Saturday) with two Michelin stars that is famous for its style and quality—an evening here glows with sumptuous white bouquets, jeweled guests, and dazzling dishes like goose Rossini with mushroom risotto. Pros: kingly service; luxurious style; superb dining. Cons: no château architecture; pricey restaurant (appetizers begin at €34). | Rooms from: €250 | 79 rue Gilbert Navard | Onzain | 02–54–20–72–57 | www.domainehautsloire.com | 25 rooms, 11 suites | Closed Dec.–mid-Feb. | Some meals.

Hostellerie du Château.

HOTEL | Set on a bank of the Loire directly opposite the road leading up to Chaumont’s château, this quaint edifice, built in the early 20th century as a hotel, rises four stories to its half-timber eaves in a vision that charmingly conjures up the grace of earlier days. The guest rooms combine cheerfully colored walls with crisp white bed quilts; the restaurant is cozy and welcoming; and the swimming pool is inviting in summer. The hotel does, however, front the busy main road through Chaumont, so be sure to book a room away from the street—preferably on the side facing the Loire. Pros: handy setting; good value; free Wi-Fi. Cons: street-facing rooms are noisy; restaurant service can be slow. | Rooms from: €84 | 2 rue Maréchal-de-Lattre-de-Tassigny | 02–54–20–98–04 | www.hostellerie-du-chateau.com | 15 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. | No meals.

CHEVERNY

24 km (15 miles) east of Chaumont, 14 km (9 miles) southeast of Blois.

Getting Here

Transports du Loir-Et-Cher (wtlcinfo.net) provides service from Blois (30 mins, €2); it also operates a twice-daily shuttle to Cheverny and Chambord, April through October (€6).

EXPLORING

Château de Cheverny.

Perhaps best remembered as Capitaine Haddock’s mansion in the Tintin comic books, the Château de Cheverny is also iconic for its restrained 17th-century elegance. One of the last in the area to be erected, it was finished in 1634, at a time when the rich and famous had mostly stopped building in the Loire Valley. By then, the taste for quaintly shaped châteaux had given way to disciplined Classicism; so here a white, elegantly proportioned, horizontally coursed, single-block facade greets you across manicured lawns. To emphasize the strict symmetry of the plan, a ruler-straight drive leads to the front entrance. The Louis XIII interior with its stridently painted and gilded rooms, splendid furniture, and rich tapestries depicting the Labors of Hercules is one of the few still intact in the Loire region. Despite the priceless Delft vases and Persian embroideries, it feels lived in. That’s because it’s one of the rare Loire Valley houses still occupied by a noble family. You can visit a small Tintin exhibition called Le Secret de Moulinsart (admission extra) and are free to contemplate the antlers of 2,000 stags in the Trophy Room: hunting, called “venery” in the leaflets, continues vigorously here, with red coats, bugles, and all. In the château’s kennels, hordes of hungry hounds lounge around dreaming of their next kill. Feeding times—la soupe aux chiens—are posted on a notice board (usually 5 pm in summer), and you are welcome to watch the “ceremony” (delicate sensibilities beware: the dogs line up like statues and are called, one by one, to wolf down their meal from the trainer). | 02–54–79–96–29 | www.chateau-cheverny.fr | €9.50; €14 with Tintin exhibition; €19.50 with Tintin exhibition and boat-and-buggy rides | Apr.–Sept., daily 9–6:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–5.

CHAMBORD

13 km (21 miles) northeast of Chaumont-sur-Loire via D33; 19 km (12 miles) east of Blois; 45 km (28 miles) southwest of Orléans.

The “Versailles” of the 16th century and the largest of the Loire châteaux, the Château de Chambord is the kind of place William Randolph Hearst might have built if he’d had the money. Variously dubbed “megalomaniacal” and “an enormous film-set extravaganza,” this is one of the most extraordinary structures in Europe, set in the middle of a royal game forest, with just a cluster of buildings—barely a village—across the road.

Getting Here

There is surprisingly little public transportation to Chambord (a state-owned château, to boot). But Transports du Loir-Et-Cher (tlcinfo.net) does make a twice-daily trip from Blois (35 mins, €2); April through October, it also runs a twice-daily shuttle that covers both Chambord and Cheverny (€6).

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Château de Chambord.

As you travel the gigantic, tree-shaded roadways that converge on Chambord, you first spot the château’s incredible towers—19th-century novelist Henry James said they were “more like the spires of a city than the salient points of a single building”—rising above the forest. When the entire palace breaks into view, it is an unforgettable sight.

With a 420-foot long facade, 440 rooms, 365 chimneys, and a wall that extends 32 km (20 miles) to enclose a 13,000-acre forest, the Château de Chambord is one of the greatest buildings in France. Under François I, building began in 1519, a job that took 12 years and required 1,800 workers. His original grandiose idea was to divert the Loire to form a moat, but someone (perhaps his adviser, Leonardo da Vinci, who some feel may have provided the inspiration behind the entire complex) persuaded him to make do with the River Cosson. François I used the château only for short stays; yet when he came, 12,000 horses were required to transport his luggage, servants, and entourage. Later kings also used Chambord as an occasional retreat, and Louis XIV, the Sun King, had Molière perform here. In the 18th century Louis XV gave the château to the Maréchal de Saxe as a reward for his victory over the English and Dutch at Fontenoy (southern Belgium) in 1745. When not indulging in wine, women, and song, the marshal planted himself on the roof to oversee the exercises of his personal regiment of 1,000 cavalry. Now, after long neglect—all the original furnishings vanished during the French Revolution—Chambord belongs to the state.

There’s plenty to see inside. You can wander freely through the vast rooms, filled with exhibits (including a hunting museum)—not all concerned with Chambord, but interesting nonetheless—and lots of Ancien Régime furnishings. The enormous double-helix staircase (probably envisioned by Leonardo, who had a thing about spirals) looks like a single staircase, but an entire regiment could march up one spiral while a second came down the other, and never the twain would meet. The real high point here in more ways than one is the spectacular chimneyscape—the roof terrace whose forest of Italianate towers, turrets, cupolas, gables, and chimneys has been compared to everything from the minarets of Constantinople to a bizarre chessboard. During the year there’s a packed calendar of activities on tap, from 90-minute tours of the park in a 4x4 vehicle (€18) to guided carriage tours (€11). A soaring three-story-tall hall has been fitted out to offer lunches and dinners. | 02–54–50–40–00 | www.chambord.org | €11 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9–6; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–5.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

La Maison à Côté.

MODERN FRENCH | Just a five-minute drive from Chambord in a tiny village, La Maison à Côté serves traditional French haute cuisine in a cozy yet contemporary dining room with a fireplace, exposed beam ceilings, and wrought-iron entry gate. Specialties, which vary with the seasons, include foie gras with fruit confit, Challans duck filet with caramelized endives, and lacquered cod with carrots and Orléans mustard. Save room for the surprisingly creative desserts. TIP There’s plenty of free parking in the church parking lot across the street, and a handful of tastefully modern rooms are available in the adjacent inn ($; closed Nov. and the first two weeks of January). | Average main: €26 | 25 Rte. de Chambord | Montlivault | 02–54–20–62–30 | www.lamaisondacote.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Tues. and Wed.

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Colliers.

B&B/INN | Small enough to consider it your own home, stuffed like a chocolate with delicious 18th-century decor, and replete with the most beautiful river terrace, this overlooked treasure proves—for a few lucky travelers—to be the most unforgettable châteaux in the Loire. Other château-hotels may have pomp, but this has something more precious: authenticité. The home of Christian and Marie-France de Gélis (both of whom are charming and speak English), it was sold to their family in 1779 by the Marquis de Vaudreuil, first French governor of Louisiana. At the end of a long allée, this “pavillon Mansart” embraces you in a semicircular layout (the collier, or necklace). Ten family descendants study you from gilded Charles-Dix frames in the gorgeous main salon, a confectionery vision of white Rococo moldings, glittering chandelier, and furniture that Madame Bovary would have loved. The breakfast room is covered with quaint 16th-century Italian frescoes, and each guest room is a bouquet of antiques and comfy furniture. Unfortunately, Monsieur and Madame de Gélis don’t hold down the fort year-round any longer. While their housekeepers are friendly, they don’t provide that distinctive family feeling. Pros: authentic antique furnishings; unique riverside setting. Cons: grounds and exterior a bit worse for wear; surrounding area fairly dull. | Rooms from: €146 | Rue Nationale (D951), 8 km (4 miles) northwest of Chambord, 17 km (10 miles) southwest of Blois | Muides-sur-Loire | 02–54–87–50–75 | www.chateau-colliers.com | 2 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast.

Grand St-Michel.

HOTEL | A revamped hunting lodge right out of the pages of a Flaubert novel grandly sits across the lawn from Chambord’s fabled château. Its lobby is cozy and its guest rooms solidly bourgeois if slightly outdated; they once boasted fabled views of the palace, but towering oak trees now block it from all but two—Room No. 5 has the best view. A 19th-century-flavored restaurant, splendidly set with mounted deer heads, majolica serving platters, and thick curtains, offers hearty local fare (including deer pâté, pumpkin soup, and game in fall) at attractive prices; there’s also a delightfully leafy terrace café facing the château. Pros: wondrous location opposite Chambord; impressive, good-value restaurant; free parking. Cons: creeky hallways; old-fashioned decor; staff can be rather cold. | Rooms from: €86 | Pl. St-Louis | 02–54–20–31–31 | www.saintmichel-chambord.com | 40 rooms | Closed 2nd wk of Dec. and last 2 wks of Jan. | Breakfast.

Wheel Estate: Biking in the Loire Valley

Fewer regions of France repay leisurely exploration more than the Val de Loire. And perhaps the best way to gently meander through the Loire Valley is by bike. As many discover, there’s nothing like seeing Chenonceaux with your head pumped full of endorphins, surrounded by 20 new best friends, and knowing you’ll be spending the night in a pointed-turret bedroom fit for sleeping princesses.

Backroads.

Offering the option of luxury or casual accommodations, Backroads supplies English-speaking guides and takes care of all the travel logistics. | 801 Cedar St., | Berkeley, California, USA | 800/462–2848 | www.backroads.com.

VBT (Vermont Biking Tours).

If you want to experience this region at its most blissful—but not blisterful!—take the VBT Loire Valley Tour. Every morning, for six days, you sally forth for two to four hours of biking—about 34 to 56 km (19 to 35 miles)—with an option of either calling it quits at lunch and returning to your hotel via shuttle or continuing on for the afternoon. The tour guide likes to joke that “real men don’t ask for directions—at least not in English,” but since the instructions direct you along the route virtually pebble-to-pebble, this faux pas never arises.

The itinerary reads like the pages of a Perrault fairy tale, studded as it is with such legendary abodes as Azay-le-Rideau, Chenonceau, Villandry, and Ussé. You can have an even better evening of it, thanks to VBT’s choice of hotels and châteaux. Two nights at Tavers’s delightful Hotel la Tonnellerie, an 18th-century wine merchant’s home with a lovely garden and pool, are followed by two more in Amboise at the Manoir les Minimes, a former convent and private home overlooking the Loire River. At your final stop, Montlouis-sur-Loire’s 16th-century Château de la Bourdaisière, retreat of King François I, you’ll feel a wand has been waved over you as you repair to the candlelit Richelieu-red dining room to enjoy a supperlative filet de carpe au Bourgueil. | 614 Monkton Rd., | Bristol, Vermont, USA | 800/245–3868 in the U.S. | www.vbt.com.

ORLÉANS

115 km (23 miles) northeast of Chambord; 112 km (70 miles) northeast of Tours; 125 km (78 miles) south of Paris.

Surrounded by locales renowned for their beauty, it’s little wonder that Orléans once suffered from an inferiority complex. A century ago ham-fisted urban planners razed many of its fine old buildings; then both German and Allied bombs helped finish the job during World War II. Today, though, Orléans is a thriving commercial city—and, thanks to a decade of sensitive urban renewal, its Vielle Ville (Old Town) has been gorgeously restored, thereby adding enormous charm to the streets between the Loire and the cathedral.

One thing that hasn’t changed is the pride locals take in la pucelle d’Orléans (the Maid of Orleans); otherwise known as Joan of Arc, she arrived in 1429 intent on rallying the troops and saving the kingdom from the English during a crucial episode in the Hundred Years’ War. Admittedly, there’s little left here from the saintly teen’s time, but the city honors her through assorted statutes, museum exhibits, and an annual festival (the Fêtes de Jeanne d’Arc).

Getting Here and Around

Trains from Paris’s Gare d’Austerlitz leave for Orléans every hour or so; the 137-km (78-mile) trip (€10 to €20.80) takes between 60 and 95 minutes, with a change in suburban Les Aubrais sometimes required. Multiple direct trains per day also connect Orléans with Tours (75 mins, €20.10), Blois (25–45 mins, €11.20), and Angers (2 hrs, 5 mins; €33.60). Once here, the civic tramway makes it easy to get from the rail station to the Old Town and the banks of the Loire.

Visitor Information

Orléans Tourist Office. | 2 pl. de l’Etape | 02–38–24–05–05 | www.tourisme-orleans.com.

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EXPLORING

Cathédrale Ste-Croix.

A riot of pinnacles and gargoyles embellished with 18th-century wedding-cake towers, the Cathédrale Ste-Croix is both Gothic and pseudo-Gothic. After most of it was destroyed in the 16th century during the Wars of Religion, Henry IV and his successors rebuilt the cathedral. Novelist Marcel Proust (1871–1922) called it France’s ugliest church, but most find it impressive. Inside are dramatic stained glass and 18th-century wood carvings, plus the modern Chapelle de Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc Chapel), with plaques in memory of British and American war dead. | Pl. Ste-Croix | May–Sept, daily 9:15–6; Oct.–Apr., daily 9:15–noon and 2–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Groslot.

Just across the square from the cathedral is the Hôtel Groslot, a Renaissance-era extravaganza bristling with caryatids, strap work, and Flemish columns. Inside are regal salons redolent of the city’s history (this used to be the Town Hall); they’re done up in the most sumptuous 19th-century Gothic Troubadour style and perhaps haunted by King François II, who died here in 1560 by the side of his bride, Mary, Queen of Scots. | Pl. de l’Étape | 02–38–79–22–30 | Free | June–Aug., Sun.–Fri. 9–7; Sept.–May, Sun.–Fri. 10–noon and 2–6.

Maison de Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc House).

During the 10-day Siege of Orléans in 1429, 17-year-old Joan of Arc stayed on the site of the Maison de Jeanne d’Arc. This faithful reconstruction of the house she knew contains exhibits about her life and costumes and weapons of her time. Several dioramas modeled by Lucien Harmey recount the main episodes in Joan’s saintly saga, from the audience at Chinon to the coronation at Reims, her capture at Compiègne, and her burning at the stake at Rouen. | 3 pl. du Général-de-Gaulle | 02–38–68–32–63 | www.jeannedarc.com.fr | €4 | Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 2–6; Apr.–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 10–6.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

Take the elevator to the top of this five-story building across from the cathedral then make your way down to see works by such artists as Tintoretto, Velázquez, Watteau, Boucher, Rodin, and Gauguin. The museum’s richest collection is its 17th-century French paintings, prints, and drawings, reputedly second only to the Louvre. | 1 rue Fernand-Rabier | 02–38–79–21–55 | €4, joint ticket with History and Archeology Museum | Tues.–Sun. 10–6.

Musée Historique et Archéologique (History and Archeology Museum).

Housed in the Hôtel Cabu, a Renaissance mansion restored after World War II, the Musée Historique et Archéologique contains works of both “fine” and “popular” art connected with the town’s past, including a remarkable collection of pagan bronzes depicting animals and dancers. These were hidden from zealous Christian missionaries in the fourth century and discovered in a sandpit near St-Benoît in 1861. An exposition is dedicated to the life of Jeanne d’Arc. | Sq. Abbé-Desnoyers | 02–38–79–25–60 | €4, joint ticket with Fine Arts Museum | Tues.–Sat. 9:30–noon and 1:30–5:45, Sun. 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Lift.

MODERN FRENCH | Decorated with quirky contemporary statues, this is a surprisingly modern and stylish restaurant. Using only the freshest local ingredients, Chef Philippe Bardeau combines textures and flavors to create a colorfully vibrant cuisine. Large windows provide views of the leafy park across the way (and, thankfully, not of the cineplex, which sits just below the restaurant); reserve a seat on the panoramic terrace overlooking the Loire River when the weather is warm. TIP This is an excellent choice for a night out with friends, but the noisy atmosphere doesn’t lend itself to a romantic rendez-vous. | Average main: €26 | Pl. de la Loire | 02–38–53–63–48 | www.restaurant-le-lift.com | Reservations essential | No dinner Sun.

Château de Champvallins.

B&B/INN | When you enter the gates of Jacqueline Létang’s magnificent 18th-century estate, with its vast wooded grounds and luxurious lodgings, you’ll immediately feel the outside world melt away. This Parisian native graciously makes her guests feel right at home with a welcoming cup of tea and a château tour (note the 16th-century chapel). Each room has a different look, but all offer toile de Jouy fabrics, polished terra-cotta tiles, claw-foot tubs, and views over the gardens. In warmer months, you can enjoy the pool nestled in the orchard. Pros: authentic antique furnishings; peaceful forest setting; breakfast included. Cons: no restaurant; only accessible by car. | Rooms from: €140 | 1079 rue de Champvallins, 12 km (7 miles) southeast of Orléans | Sandillon | 02–38–41–16–53 | www.chateaudechampvallins.com | 5 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | L’Abeille.

HOTEL | Conveniently located on the main shopping street in Orléans, this charming family-run hotel—a block from the train/tram station—welcomes guests in rooms with fresh floral wall coverings, parquet flooring, and immaculate tiled bathrooms (many as large as the rooms). A rooftop garden terrace offers panoramic views of the city in warmer months, while the lounge is a comfy place for a coffee while perusing L’Abeille’s collection of historic books and Joan of Arc memorabilia. Pros: easily accessible by train; free Wi-Fi; extra-spacious rooms. Cons: rooms facing street can be noisy; pricey city parking. | Rooms from: €98 | 64 rue Alsace-Lorraine | 02–38–53–54–87 | www.hoteldelabeille.com | 28 rooms | Some meals.

Le Rivage.

HOTEL | This small, white-walled hotel is a bit off the beaten track (take the N20 south from Orléans to Olivet, then turn right into Avenue de Verdun and continue parallel to the River Loiret for a mile or so), but it makes a pleasant base. Le Rivage has been a family affair since 1954, and Jean-Pierre Béreaud provides a warm welcome. Guest rooms are compact yet comfortable, and each has a little balcony with a view of the tree-lined Loiret (the best is from No. 4). You can also drink in the river view from excellent restaurant (no lunch Saturday; no dinner Sunday, November–April); popular with locals, the stylish menu changes seasonally. Pros: quiet setting; riverside restaurant. Cons: can be damp in fall and spring; tiny bathrooms; few staff speak English. | Rooms from: €88 | 635 rue de la Reine-Blanche, 5 km (3 miles) south of Orléans | Olivet | 02–38–66–02–93 | www.lerivage-olivet.com | 17 rooms | Closed late Dec.–late Jan. | Some meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Fêtes de Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc Festival).

Held in early May, the venerable Fêtes de Jeanne d’Arc celebrates the heroic Maid of Orléans with a parade, religious procession, medieval fair, and reenactments of the famous siege of Orléans. | www.fetesjeannedarc.com.

MEUNG-SUR-LOIRE

27 km (17 miles) southwest of Orléans via N152.

Château de Meung.

From the middle of the 12th century until late in the 18th, this château served mainly as the country seat of the bishops of Orléans, although in 1429 Lord Salisbury used it as his headquarters during the Siege of Orléans. Château de Meung was sold after the French Revolution and stood derelict for years before private restoration began in the 1970s. It has since been furnished with a diverse collection of artifacts that range from age-old antiques to weaponry (the latter run the gamut from medieval crossbows to World War II submachine guns). The most unexpected parts of the hour-long tour are the underground dungeons, chapel, and torture chamber. | 16 pl. du Martroi | 02–38–44–36–47 | www.chateau-de-meung.com | €8.50 | Mar.–Apr., Nov., and Dec., weekends 2–6; May, Sept., and Oct., Tues.–Sun. 2–6; June–Aug., Tues.–Sun. 10–7 | Closed Jan. and Feb.

WHERE TO STAY

Le Relais Louis XI.

HOTEL | King Louis XI built this pretty stable complex in the late 15th century to provide quality accommodations for his horses, knights, and blacksmiths; now it’s been converted into a slick modern hotel. Large-windowed guest rooms manage to be both minimalistic and charming, glowing in white-on-white and chic pastel hues, warmed with working fireplaces. Centered around a spacious courtyard, the picturesque retreat also has a rose garden and a “bio-gastronomic” pink-walled dining room that serve lunch and candlelit dinners (closed Tuesday and Wednesday and first two weeks in January). Pros: magical mix of medieval architecture and chic decor; bio theme; top restaurant; free Wi-Fi. Cons: prices for all but the most basic room jack up in peak season. | Rooms from: €80 | 2 rue St-Pierre | 02–38–44–27–71 | lerelaislouisxi.com | 8 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.

Bike Tour Options

With its nearly flat terrain, the Loire Valley seems custom-built for cycling, and the recently added Loire à Vélo signposted bike trails, extending 800 km (500 miles) from Orléans to the Atlantic Ocean, make it even easier to pedal between each town and village. Bike rental agencies and trail maps are easily found in the towns along the route for independent exploration. For stress-free planning, local bike tour companies such as Biking France and Loire à Vélo offer turnkey self-guided vacations of two–six days for which they arrange hotels, restaurants, itineraries, maps, baggage transfers, and bike hire for as little as €150 per day per person. They even have electric bikes for those who prefer to glide sans effort. The Anjou tourism offices in Angers and Saumur also rent out “Cyclopédia” GPS gadgets that attach to your bike and guide you through the paths and sights of the Anjou region. The bigger towns all have bike rental agencies. One of the top choices is Loire Vélo Nature, which has more than a dozen outlets along the Loire, where you can rent bikes from €15 a day or €55 a week.

Contacts

Anjou Vélo. | 08–20–15–00–49 €0.34 per min | www.anjou-velo.com.

Biking France. | 2 rue Jean Moulin, | Blois | 02–54–78–62–52 | www.biking-france.com.

Loire à Vélo. | 37 av. de Paris, | Orléans | 02–38–79–95–28 | www.loireavelo.fr.

Loire Vélo Nature. | 7 rue des Déportés, | Bréhémont | 06–03–89–23–14 | www.loirevelonature.com.

BLOIS

54 km (34 miles) southwest of Orléans, 58 km (36 miles) northeast of Tours.

Perched on a steep hillside overlooking the Loire, the bustling big town of Blois is a convenient base, well served by train and highway. A signposted route leads you on a walking tour of the Vieille Ville (Old Town)—a romantic honeycomb of twisting alleys, cobblestone streets, and half-timber houses. Its historic highlights include place St-Louis, where you can find the Maison des Acrobats (note the timbers carved with jongleurs, or jugglers), Cathédrale St-Louis, and unexpected Renaissance galleries and staircases lurking in tucked-away courtyards; most visitors, however, are understandably distracted by Blois’s superlative, era-bridging château.

Getting Here

Multiple direct trains per day leave Paris’s Gare d’Austerlitz for Blois, making the 185-km (115-mile) trip in one hour, 25 minutes (€28.60). There are also dozens of daily trains from Tours (30–45 mins, €10.90) and Orléans (25–45 mins, €11.20).

Visitor Information

Blois Tourist Office. | 23 pl. du Château | 02–54–90–41–41 | www.bloischambord.com.

EXPLORING

Château de Blois.

The massive Château de Blois spans several architectural periods and is among the valley’s finest. Your ticket entitles you to a guided tour—given in English when there are enough visitors who don’t understand French—but you’re more than welcome to roam around on your own. Before entering, pause in the courtyard to admire examples of four centuries of architecture. On one side stand the 13th-century hall and tower, the latter offering a stunning view of the town and countryside. The Renaissance begins to flower in the Louis XII wing (built between 1498 and 1503), through which you enter, and comes to full bloom in the François I wing (1515–24). The masterpiece here is the openwork spiral staircase, painstakingly restored. The fourth side consists of the Classical Gaston d’Orléans wing (1635–38). Upstairs in the François I wing is a series of enormous rooms with tremendous fireplaces decorated with the gilded porcupine, emblem of Louis XII, the ermine of Anne of Brittany, and, of course, François I’s salamander, breathing fire and surrounded by flickering flames. Many rooms have intricate ceilings and carved, gilt paneling. In the council room the Duke of Guise was murdered by order of Henri III in 1588. Every evening mid-April through mid-September, son-et-lumière shows are staged (there’s an English version on Wednesday). | 02–54–90–33–33 | www.chateaudeblois.fr | €9.80 château; €8 sound-and-light show; €15 joint ticket | Apr.–June and Sept., daily 9–6:30; July and Aug., daily 9–7; Oct., daily 9–6; Nov.–Mar., daily 9–12:30 and 1:30–5:30.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Au Rendez-Vous des Pêcheurs.

SEAFOOD | This friendly restaurant in an old grocery near the Loire has simple decor but impressively creative cooking. Chef Christophe Cosme was an apprentice with Burgundy’s late, legendary Bernard Loiseau, and his inventive dishes range from fish and seafood specialties (try the crayfish-and-parsley flan) to succulent baby pigeon on a bed of cabbage. | Average main: €37 | 27 rue du Foix | 02–54–74–67–48 | www.rendezvousdespecheurs.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. and 2 wks in Aug.

Le Clos Pasquier.

B&B/INN | Time seems to have stood still at Claire and Laurent’s snug 16th-century countryside manor set on the edge of the forest—an inviting place featuring heavy wooden beams, well-worn terra-cotta floor tiles, and welcoming stone fireplaces. Guest rooms are simple but comfy, and have gleaming, recently renovated bathrooms; suites have their own entrances and one opens onto a private garden. Pros: luxurious bedding; historic building; direct bus to town center; gourmet breakfast included. Cons: no restaurant; away from urban amenities. | Rooms from: €115 | 10–12 impasse de l’Orée du Bois | 02–54–58–84–08 | www.leclospasquier.fr | 2 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

Le Médicis.

HOTEL | Known far and wide for its exceptional restaurant, this smart little hotel 1 km (½ mile) from the Château de Blois has guest rooms that are comfortable, air-conditioned, and soundproof; all share a joyous color scheme but are individually decorated. The restaurant alone makes a stay here worthwhile (no dinner Sunday; closed Monday, November–March). Decorated in Renaissance-style with a coffered ceiling, it is the domain of Michelin-starred chef-owner Damien Garanger, who turns classic dishes into presentations—picture coquilles St-Jacques with bitter roquette, or thin slices of roast hare with a black-currant sauce. The impressive wine list includes more than 300 choices. Pros: excellent Renaissance-style dining room; cheerful lodgings; welcoming staff. Cons: no views; no elevator; not in town center. | Rooms from: €79 | 2 allée François-Ier | 02–54–43–94–04 | www.le-medicis.com | 8 rooms, 2 suites | Closed 3 wks in Jan. | Some meals.

16 Place Saint Louis.

B&B/INN | In the heart of Blois’s Old Town, across the square from the St-Louis Cathedral, this elegant bed-and-breakfast gives guests the experience of staying in a classic haute bourgeois home. Guest rooms are decorated in pink or blue fabrics with antique furnishings, and the top-floor suite in purple and gold is set under ancient wooden beams. Host Philppe Escoffre speaks perfect English and genuinely enjoys helping guests make the most of their stay. Pros: convenient location in historic center; beautifully appointed; breakfast included. Cons: no lift and the stairs can be a squeeze; limited space for luggage. | Rooms from: €90 | 16 pl. Saint Louis | 02–54–74–13–61 | www.16placesaintlouis.fr | 2 rooms, 1 suite | No credit cards | Closed 3 wks in Jan. | Breakfast.

Bateau-Promenade.

The hour-long Bateau-Promenade glides you along a tranquil stretch of the river to Vouvray and back. Although the commentary on the boat is in French, the sights alone—riverside caves, deserted towers, distant châteaux (like Moncontour, made famous by Balzac)—make for a most enjoyable outing. | 56 quai de la Loire | 02–47–52–68–88 | www.naviloire.com | €9.50 | July and Aug., daily 3 and 5 pm; Apr.–June, Sept., and Oct., daily by reservation.

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Villandry | Langeais | Azay-le-Rideau | Saché | Ussé-Rigny | Chinon | Fontevraud-l’Abbaye | Saumur | Angers

To the west of Tours, breathtaking châteaux dot the Indre Valley between the regional capital and the once-upon-a-time town of Chinon on the River Vienne. This is the most glamorous part of the Val de Loire—the picturesque pageant beginning in the glorious gardens of Villandry, with the fairy-tale châteaux of Azay-le-Rideaux and Ussé following in rapid succession. Continuing west, no one will want to miss the towns of Fontevraud and Saumur or the city of Angers, which collectively capture the essence of romantic medievalism. Along the way, leave time to savor such storybook delights as Saché—perhaps the Loire’s prettiest village.

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VILLANDRY

18 km (11 miles) west of Tours via D7.

Getting Here

Fil Bleu buses make frequent trips from Tours (30 mins, €2.70).

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Villandry.

Green-thumbers get weak in the knees at the mere mention of the Château de Villandry, a grand estate near the Cher River, thanks to its painstakingly relaid 16th-century gardens, now the finest example of Renaissance garden design in France. These were originally planted in 1906 by Dr. Joachim Carvallo and Anne Coleman, his American wife, whose passion resulted in three terraces planted in styles that combine the French monastic garden with Italianate models depicted in historic Du Cerceau etchings. Seen from Villandry’s cliff-side walkway, the garden terraces look like flowered chessboards blown up to the nth power—a breathtaking sight.

Beyond the water garden and an ornamental garden depicting symbols of chivalric love is the famous potager, or vegetable garden, which stretches on for bed after bed—the pumpkins here are les pièces de résistance. Flower lovers will rejoice in the main jardin à la française (French-style garden): framed by a canal, it’s a vast carpet of rare and colorful blooms planted en broderie (“like embroidery”), set into patterns by box hedges and paths. The aromatic and medicinal garden, its plots neatly labeled in three languages, is especially appealing. Below an avenue of 1,200 precisely pruned lime trees lies an ornamental lake that is home to swans: not a ripple is out of place. The château interior, still used by the Carvallo family, was redecorated in the mid-18th century; of particular note are the painted and gilt Moorish ceiling from Toledo and one of the finest collections of 17th-century Spanish paintings in France.

The quietest time to visit is usually during the two-hour French lunch break, while the most photogenic time is during the Nuits des Mille Feux (Nights of a Thousand Lights, held the first weekend in July), when paths and pergolas are illuminated with myriad lanterns and a dance troupe offers a tableau vivant. There is a gardening weekend held in late September and a music festival in October. | 3 rue Principale | 02–47–50–02–09 | www.chateauvillandry.com | €10 château and gardens; €6.50 gardens only | Château: Apr.–June, Sept., and Oct., daily 9–6; July and Aug., daily 9–6:30; 1st 2 wks of Nov. and last 2 wks of Feb., daily 9–5; Mar., 9–5:30; Gardens: Apr.–June, Sept., daily 9–7; July and Aug., daily 9–7:30; Oct.–mid-Nov., daily 9–5; mid-Nov.–Feb., daily 9–5; Mar., daily 9–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Auberge Le Colombien.

HOTEL | Just a few steps away from the château, this humble yet cozy inn with country-style rooms is in the heart of Villandry village. Rooms each have their own style, some with exposed wooden beams or stone walls, floral prints or bright paint, and wooden floors or carpeting. Happily, there is an onsite restaurant that serves up traditional local cuisine in a casual setting. lIf traffic noise is a problem, request a room in the back, as this hotel fronts the main thoroughfare. Pros: free Wi-Fi; historic building. Cons: small windows; right on main road; few amenities. | Rooms from: €78 | 2 rue de la Mairie | 02–47–50–07–27 | www.hotel-villandry.com | 14 rooms | Some meals.

LANGEAIS

10 km (6 miles) west of Villandry via D7, A85, and D952.

Sometimes unjustly overlooked, the Château de Langeais—a castle in the true sense of the word—will particularly delight those who dream of knights in shining armor and the chivalric days of yore.

Getting Here

There are nine direct trains a day from Tours (20 mins, €5.60) and seven from Saumur (25 mins, €8.10). Fil Vert provides a bus link with Chinon (40 mins, €2).

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Château de Langeais.

Built in the 1460s, bearing a massive portcullis and gate, and never altered, the Château de Langeais has an interior noted for its superb collection of medieval and Renaissance furnishings: its assorted fireplaces, tapestries, chests, and beds would make Guinevere and Lancelot feel right at home. An hourly waxworks and video show tells the story of the secret dawn wedding of King Charles VIII with Anne of Brittany in the room where it took place in 1491. Outside, gardens nestle behind sturdy walls and battlements; kids will make a beeline for the playgrounds and tree house. The town itself has other sites, including a Renaissance church tower, but chances are you won’t want to move from the delightful outdoor cafés that face the castle entrance. Do follow the road a bit to the right (when looking at the entrance) to discover the charming historic houses grouped around a waterfall and canal. | Pl. Pierre de Brosse | 02–47–96–72–60 | www.chateaudelangeais.com | €9 | Apr.–June and Sept.–mid-Nov., daily 9:30–6:30; July and Aug., daily 9–7; mid-Nov.–Jan. daily 10–5; Feb. and Mar., daily 9:30–5:30.

AZAY-LE-RIDEAU

11 km (7 miles) south of Villandry via D39, 27 km (17 miles) southwest of Tours.

A largish town surrounding a sylvan dell on the banks of the River Indre, pleasant Azay-le-Rideau is famed for its white-wall Renaissance pleasure palace, called “a faceted diamond set in the Indre Valley” by Honoré de Balzac.

Getting Here

Azay-le-Rideau is on the main rail line between Tours (30 mins, €5.80) and Chinon (20 mins, €5.10). The Fil Bleu bus network also provides regular service from Tours train station (35 mins, €2.70).

EXPLORING

Château d’Azay-le-Rideau.

The 16th-century Château d’Azay-le-Rideau was created as a literal fairy-tale castle. When it was constructed, the nouveau-riche treasurer Gilles Berthelot decided he wanted to add tall corner turrets, a moat, and machicolations to conjure up the distant seigneurial past when knighthood was in flower and two families, the Azays and the Ridels, ruled this terrain. It was never a serious fortress—it certainly offered no protection to its builder when a financial scandal forced him to flee France shortly after the château’s completion in 1529. For centuries the château passed from one private owner to another until it was finally bought by the State in 1905. Though the interior contains an interesting blend of furniture and artwork (one room is an homage to the Marquis de Biencourt who, in the early 20th century, led the way in renovating château interiors in sumptuous fashion—sadly, many of his elegant furnishings were later sold), you may wish to spend most of your time exploring the enchanting gardens, complete with a moat-like lake. Innovative son-et-lumière shows are held on the grounds nightly in July and August, beginning at 10:30 pm. | 02–47–45–42–04 | azay-le-rideau.monuments-nationaux.fr | €8.50 château; €10 sound-and-light show; €14 joint ticket | Apr.–June and Sept., daily 9:30–6; July and Aug., daily 9:30–7; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–5:15.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel de Biencourt.

B&B/INN | Charmingly set on the pedestrian street that leads to Azay’s château gates, this shuttered town house has a delightful courtyard-garden that hides an authentic 19th-century schoolhouse, now converted into lodgings cozily furnished in traditional country style (complete with the stray blackboard and school desk). Guest rooms in the main house have a contemporary decor, punctuated with the occasional 19th-century neo-classic “Directoire” touch. The village has quite a few restaurants—if you don’t want to stroll around and pick, ask the friendly owner Patrick Fargues about the best. Pros: families welcome; free Wi-Fi. Cons: no private parking; thin walls. | Rooms from: €78 | 7 rue Balzac | 02–47–45–20–75 | www.hotelbiencourt.com | 17 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–Mar. | No meals.

Le Grand Monarque.

HOTEL | Home to one of France’s most beauteous châteaux, Azay should rightly have a hotel that befits the town jewel and this landmark—a three-minute walk from the château gates—nicely fits the bill. Some complain that its fame brings a captive audience, which can result in offhand service. However, guest rooms, which vary in size and style, have character; most are simple, with an antique or two, and many have exposed beams (the largest is called “The Monsoreau”). Public salons are elegant and comfortable, while the restaurant (no dinner Sunday; closed Monday from mid-October to December and mid-February to April) serves high-style food and boasts one of the region’s most extensive wine lists, with more than 700 choices. Pros: fine restaurant with large wine list; town-center setting; free Wi-Fi. Cons: some rooms need redecorating; weekend stays must include dinner. | Rooms from: €78 | 1 rue du Château | 02–47–45–40–08 | www.legrandmonarque.com | 22 rooms, 2 suites | Closed Nov.–Feb. | Some meals.

THE OUTDOORS

J.C. Leprovost.

Rent bikes from J.C. Leprovost to ride along the Indre; the area around Azay-le-Rideau is among the most tranquil and scenic in Touraine. | 13 rue Carnot | 02–47–45–40–94.

SACHÉ

7 km (4½ miles) east of Azay-le-Rideau via D17.

A crook in the road, a Gothic church, the centuries-old Auberge du XIIe Siècle, an Alexander Calder stabile (the great American sculptor created a modern atelier nearby), and the country retreat of novelist Honoré de Balzac (1799–1850)—these few but choice elements all add up to Saché, one of the prettiest (and most undiscovered) nooks in the Val de Loire. If you’re heading into the town from the east, you’re first welcomed by the Pont-de-Ruan—a dream sequence of a flower-bedecked bridge, water mill, and lake that is so picturesque it will practically click your camera for you.

Getting Here

No trains serve Saché, but you can ride as far as the Azay-de-Rideau rail station and cover the remaining 7 km (4½ miles) by cab. Alternately, you can hop a Fil Vert bus from Tours (70 mins, €2).

EXPLORING

Château de Saché.

In the center of town, the Château de Saché houses the Musée Balzac. If you’ve never read any of Balzac’s “Comédies Humaine,” you might find little of interest in it; but if you have, you can return to such novels as Cousine Bette and Eugénie Grandet with fresh enthusiasm and understanding. Much of the landscape around here, and some of the people back then, found immortality by being fictionalized in many a Balzac novel. Surrounded by six acres of gardens, the present château, built between the 16th and the 18th centuries, is more of a comfortable country house than a fortress. Born in Tours, Balzac came here—to stay with his friends, the Margonnes—during the 1830s, both to write such works as Le Père Goriot and to escape his creditors. The château’s themed exhibits range from photographs and original manuscripts to the coffee service Balzac used (the caffeine helped to keep him writing up to 16 hours a day). A few period rooms impress with 19th-century charm, including a lavish emerald-green salon and the author’s own writing room. Be sure to study some of the corrected book proofs on display. Balzac had to pay for corrections and additions beyond a certain limit. Painfully in debt, he made emendations filling all the margins of his proofs, causing dismay to his printers. Their legitimate bills for extra payment meant that some of his works, best sellers for nearly two centuries, failed to bring him a centime. | 2 rue de Château | 02–47–26–86–50 | www.musee-balzac.fr | €5.50 | Apr.–June and Sept., daily 10–6; July and Aug., daily 10–7; Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10–12:30 and 2–5.

WHERE TO EAT

Fodor’s Choice | Auberge du XIIe Siècle.

FRENCH | You half expect Balzac himself to come strolling in the door of this delightful half-timber auberge, so little has it changed since the 19th century. Still sporting a time-stained painted sign and its original exterior staircase, and nearly opposite the great author’s country retreat, this inn retains its centuries-old dining room, now warmed by a fireplace, floral bouquets, and rich wood tables. Beyond this room is a modern extension—all airy glass and white walls but not exactly what you’re looking for in such historic surrounds. Balzac’s ample girth attested to his great love of food, and he would no doubt enjoy the sautéed lobster or the nouvelle spins on his classic géline chicken favorites served here today. Dessert is excellent, and so is the coffee—a beverage Balzac drank incessantly (which may explain how he had the energy to create 2,000-plus characters). | Average main: €40 | 1 rue du Château | 02–47–26–88–77 | Reservations essential | No dinner Sun., no lunch Tues.; closed Mon., 2 wks in Jan., and 1 wk in June, Sept., and Nov.

Loire Valley Through the Ages

Marauding Huns laid siege to Orléans in AD 451, just 44 years after the death of St. Martin, fabled Bishop of Tours. The next invaders were the Vikings, who pillaged their way down to Angers in the ninth century. Then came the English: in 1154—two years after wedding Eleanor of Aquitaine—Henry Plantagenet became king of England and sovereign of almost all of western France, the Loire included. In 1189 he died (as Henry II) in Chinon. In 1199 his son, Richard the Lion-Hearted, died there, too; both are buried (alongside Eleanor) in Fontevraud Abbey, founded a century earlier.

But the French were having none of this foreign hegemony. Beefy castles (Langeais, Chinon) sprouted up along the valley. In 1429 Joan of Arc kicked the English out of Orléans.

Her triumph was short-lived but soon the Loire was back in French hands, and a period of peace and prosperity ensued that saw the region become the center of French culture and politics. The Renaissance arrived in the 1490s, when Charles VII hired Italian craftsmen to update his château at Amboise; then Renaissance prince François I lured Leonardo da Vinci to Amboise, where he died in 1519—the year François began building the world’s most fanciful château, Chambord.

The next hundred years were the Loire’s pleasure-palace golden age. The decline set in with Louis XIV and his obsession with Versailles. Tours served briefly as French capital in 1870 during the Franco-Prussian War, and the region enjoyed an unwelcome spotlight in 1940, when Pétain met Hitler in Montoire-sur-Loir. When France was freed from the Nazi yoke four years later, the Loire was briefly on the front line, as bombarded Tours and Orléans recall. But, elsewhere, its rural tranquility emerged untouched. You’ll mostly have the impression that time has stopped.

USSÉ-RIGNY

14 km (9 miles) west of Azay-le-Rideau via D17 and D7.

The Loire Valley is blessed with an abundance of eye-popping chateaux, but the fairest of them all is here. The Château d’Ussé, inspiration for Charles Perrault’s (and Walt Disney’s) “Sleeping Beauty,” continues to cast a spell on visitors.

Getting Here

If don’t have a car, the Château d’Ussé is a hard place to reach. Check with the tourism offices in Chinon or Tours for daily shuttles or high-season bus tours that take in two or three châteaux in a day.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Château d’Ussé.

The most beautiful castle in France is first glimpsed as you approach the Château d’Ussé and an astonishing array of blue-slate roofs, dormer windows, delicate towers, and Gothic turrets greets you against the flank of the Forest of Chinon. Literature describes this château, overlooking the banks of the River Indre, as the original Sleeping Beauty castle; Charles Perrault—author of this beloved 17th-century tale—spent time here as a guest of the Count of Saumur, and legend has it that Ussé inspired him to write the famous story. Though parts of the castle are from the 1400s, most of it was completed two centuries later. By the 17th century, the region was so secure that one fortified wing of the castle was demolished to allow for grand vistas over the valley and the castle gardens, newly designed in the style Le Nôtre had made so fashionable at Versailles.

Only Disney could have outdone this white-tufa marvel: the château is a flamboyant mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles—romantic and built for fun, not for fighting. Its history supports this playful image: it endured no bloodbaths—no political conquests or conflicts—while a tablet in the chapel indicates that even the French Revolution passed it by. Inside, a tour leads you through several sumptuous period salons, a 19th-century French fashion exhibit, and the Salle de Roi bedchamber built for a visit by King Louis XV (the red-silk, canopied four-poster bed is the stuff of dreams). At the end of the house tour, you can go up the fun spiral staircases to the chemin de ronde of the lofty towers; there are pleasant views of the Indre River from the battlements, and you can also find rooms filled with waxwork effigies detailing the fable of Sleeping Beauty herself. Kids will love this.

Before you leave, visit the exquisite Gothic-becomes-Renaissance chapel in the garden, built for Charles d’Espinay and his wife in 1523–35. Note the door decorated with pleasingly sinister skull-and-crossbones carvings. Just a few steps from the chapel are two towering cedars of Lebanon—a gift from the genius-poet of Romanticism, Viscount René de Chateaubriand, to the lady of the house, the Duchess of Duras. When her famous amour died in 1848, she stopped all the clocks in the house—à la Sleeping Beauty—“so as never to hear struck the hours you will not come again.” The castle then was inherited by her relations, the Comte and Comtesse de la Rochejaquelin, one of the most dashing couples of the 19th century. Today, Ussé belongs to their descendant, the Duc de Blacas, who is as soigné as his castle. If you do meet him, proffer thanks, as every night his family floodlights the entire château, a vision that is one of the Loire Valley’s dreamiest sights. Long regarded as a symbol of la vieille France, Ussé can’t be topped for fairy-tale splendor, so make this a must-do. | Rigny-Ussé | 02–47–95–54–05 | www.chateaudusse.fr | €14 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–7; mid-Feb.–Mar. and Oct.–mid-Nov., daily 10–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Le Clos d’Ussé.

HOTEL | Thank heavens for this delightful inn—the best time to see the great Château d’Ussé is in early morning light or illuminated at night, and the easiest way to do that is to stay in the village of Rigny-Ussé at the home of the famille Duchemin. Eric runs the place, while Muriel is in charge of the extremely cozy restaurant. Not surprisingly, families will adore this place, especially as three of the rooms are custom-built for them (and rather stylish, to boot). Three rooms have a view of the château, but best of all, a one-minute walk from the front door takes you to the castle gates. Pros: close to château; charming restaurant. Cons: basic guest-room facilities; you-get-what-you-pay-for bathrooms. | Rooms from: €60 | 7 rue Principale | Rigny-Ussé | 02–47–95–55–47 | www.leclosdusse.fr | 4 rooms, 1 suite | Closed Nov.–mid-Feb. | No meals.

CHINON

13 km (8 miles) southwest of Rigny-Ussé via D7 and D16, 44 km (28 miles) southwest of Tours.

Chinon—the birthplace of author François Rabelais (1494–1553)—is dominated by a 12th-century castle, perched imposingly above the River Vienne. But its leading photo op is the medieval heart of town. Rue Haute St-Maurice, in particular, stretches for more than 15 wondrous, time-warped blocks, and it’s virtually impossible to stroll past the half-timber houses that line it without reaching for your camera. Little wonder that Jean Cocteau used Chinon’s fairy-tale allure to effectively frame Josette Day when she appeared as Beauty in his classic 1949 film La Belle et la Bête.

Getting Here

Trains from Tours pull into Chinon six times a day (50 mins; €9.70).

Visitor Information

Chinon Tourist Office. | Pl. Hofheim | 02–47–93–17–85 | www.chinon-valdeloire.com.

EXPLORING

Fortresse de Chinon.

This vast fortress dates from the time of Henry II of England, who died within its 400-yard long walls in 1189; another historic event occurred in 1429, when Joan of Arc recognized the disguised dauphin (later Charles VII) here. Long years of neglect, however, eventually left the fortress little more than a ruin, completely open to the elements. The good news is that sweeping restoration work has returned its majestic rooftop, ramparts, and towers to their former glory. A visitor center now welcomes guests a few steps from the glass elevator that provides direct access from the center of Chinon’s Old Town. You can tour the Logis Royal (Royal Chambers), a section of which has been transformed into an interactive museum dedicated to Joan of Arc. For a bird’s-eye look at the landscape, climb the Tour Coudray (Coudray Tower), where in 1307 leading members of the crusading Knights Templar were imprisoned before being taken to Paris, tried, and burned at the stake. The Tour de l’Horloge (Clock Tower), whose bell has sounded the hours since 1399, has a view over the ensemble of buildings; while the ramparts offer sensational ones over Chinon, the Vienne Valley, and (toward the back of the castle) the famous Le Clos de l’Echo vineyard. A salon de thé is open on the terrace from May through September. | 02–47–93–13–45 | www.forteressechinon.fr | €8.50 | Mar.–Apr., Sept. and Oct, daily 9:30–6; May–Aug., daily 9:30–7; Nov.–Feb., daily 9:30–5.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Les Années Trente.

FRENCH | Located in the heart of medieval Chinon, at the foot of the royal fortress, this spot welcomes diners with a venerable 16th-century facade. A romantic Belle Époque interior continues the historic vibe—but the food, au contraire, is prepared with a light, modern touch. Stéphane and Karine Charles’s delicious dishes combine fish, game, and regional specialties that melt in your mouth without weighing you down. There are three different menus, the best of which might be the hearty Le 30 (€44), which comes perfectly paired with local wines and cheeses. | Average main: €30 | 78 rue Haute St-Maurice | 02–47–93–37–18 | www.lesannees30.com | Reservations essential | Closed Tues. and Wed.

Best Western Hôtel de France.

HOTEL | Right on Chinon’s most charming square—a picture postcard come to life with a splashing fountain and a bevy of cafés—stands this agreeable inn, which has been housing guests since 1577. Many regional notables lodged here before the Revolution, when it became the Hôtel Lion d’Or, the first hostelry in the region. The wood-beam rooms are comfortable and cozy; some overlook two tiny, flowerpot-bedecked courtyards, while others take in views that include Chinon’s fortress. The restaurant, Au Chapeau Rouge (closed Monday, no dinner Sunday or lunch Tuesday), serves regional cuisine, and there’s also a brasserie for lighter, less expensive fare. Pros: good-value restaurants; free parking at night. Cons: small guest rooms and bathrooms; no elevator. | Rooms from: €118 | 47 pl. du Général-de-Gaulle | 02–47–93–33–91 | www.bestwestern-hoteldefrance-chinon.com | 30 rooms | Some meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Diderot.

HOTEL | With its ivy-covered stone, white shutters, mansard roof, dormer windows, and Rococo spiral staircase, this hotel looks like an 18th-century François Boucher painting. Inside, the guest rooms (some with original architectural features) are spacious, and, while hardly modern, come with cable TV, free Wi-Fi, and plenty of closet space. A lovely breakfast laden with local products (€9.40) is served in the beamed dining room by a roaring fireplace in winter or on the garden terrace in summer. All in all, this is an excellent value for the money. Pros: parking in the courtyard or in a free lot nearby; cozy bar and breakfast room; accessible ground-floor rooms. Cons: somewhat worn decor; outdated bathrooms. | Rooms from: €70 | 4 rue de Buffon | 02–47–93–18–87 | www.hoteldiderot.com | 27 rooms | Some meals.

FONTEVRAUD-L’ABBAYE

20 km (12 miles) northwest of Chinon via D751.

A refreshing break from the worldly grandeur of châteaux, the small village of Fontevraud is crowned with the largest abbey in France—a magnificent complex of Romanesque and Renaissance buildings that featured prominently in the history of both England and France.

Getting Here

Buses connect Saumur and Fontevraud four times per day (40 mins, €1.35). In high-season, coach tours and shuttles travel from both Saumur and Chinon—check with town tourist offices for schedules and fares.

Visitor Information

Fontevraud-l’Abbaye Tourist Office. | Pl. St-Michel | 02–41–51–79–45 | www.ot-saumur.fr | Closed Oct.–Mar.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud.

Founded in 1101, the Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud (Royal Abbey) had separate churches and living quarters for nuns, monks, lepers, “repentant” female sinners, and the sick. Between 1115 and the French Revolution in 1789, a succession of 39 abbesses—among them a granddaughter of William the Conqueror—directed operations. The great 12th-century Église Abbatiale (Abbey Church) contains the tombs of Henry II of England, his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine, and their son, Richard Cœur de Lion (the Lion-Hearted). Though their bones were scattered during the Revolution, their effigies still lie en couchant in the middle of the echoey nave. Napoléon turned the abbey church into a prison, and so it remained until 1963, when historical restoration work began. The Salle Capitulaire (Chapter House), adjacent to the church, with its collection of 16th-century religious wall paintings (prominent abbesses served as models), is unmistakably Renaissance; the paving stones bear the salamander emblem of François I. Next to the long refectory is the famously octagonal Cuisine (Kitchen), topped by 20 scaly stone chimneys led by the Tour d’Evrault. | Pl. des Plantagenêts | 02–41–51–73–52 | www.abbayedefontevraud.com | €9.50 | July and Aug, daily 9:30–7; Mar.–June., Sept., and Oct., daily 9:30–6:30; Nov., Dec., and Feb., Tues.–Sun. 10–5.

Allée Sainte-Catherine.

After touring the Abbaye Royale, head outside the gates of the complex a block to the north to discover one of the Loire Valley’s most time-burnished streets, the Allée Sainte-Catherine. Bordered by the Fontevraud park, headed by a charming medieval church, and lined with a few scattered houses (which now contain the town tourist office, a gallery that sells medieval illuminated manuscript pages, and the lovely Licorne restaurant), this street still conjures up the 14th century.

Château du Petit Thouars.

Try some local wines at the stunning, Renaissance-era Château du Petit Thouars, which enjoys an enchanting hilltop setting just off the Vienne river (between Chinon and Fontevraud). The descendents of Aristide du Petit Thouars, a French naval officer who fought in the American Revolution, have created a small museum illustrating the adventures of their family members that visitors can tour after a dégustation of still and sparkling wines from their hillside vineyard. The historic château, alas, is still a private home, only to be enjoyed from the outside. | Rte. de la Chaussee, St-Germain-sur-Vienne | 02–47–95–96–40 | www.chateaudptwines.com | Tues.–Sat. 9:30–1 and 2–5:30.

WHERE TO EAT

La Licorne.

FRENCH | A hanging shop sign adorned with a painted unicorn beckons you to this pretty-as-a-picture 18th-century town-house restaurant on Fontevraud’s idyllic Allée Sainte-Catherine. Past a flowery garden and table-adorned terrace, tiny salons glow with happy folks feasting on some of the best food in the region: dishes like Loire salmon, boned quail, Triple Sec soufflé, and langoustine ravioli make most diners purr with contentment. | Average main: €32 | Allée Ste-Catherine | 02–41–51–72–49 | www.restaurant-gastronomique-licorne.fr | Reservations essential | Jacket required | No dinner Sun. or Wed., Oct.–Easter; closed Mon. and 4 wks mid-Dec.–mid-Jan.

SAUMUR

15 km (9 miles) northwest of Fontevraud via D947, 68 km (43 miles) west of Tours.

You’ll find putting up with the locals’ legendary snobisme well worth it once you get a gander at Saumur’s centre historique, a camera-ready quarter studded with elegant 19th-century town houses and anchored by the vast 12th-century church of St-Pierre. Looming over it all is an equally photogenic riverside castle, the Château de Saumur. Architecture aside, this town (one of the largest along the Loire) is known for agriculture—in particular a flourishing mushroom industry, which produces 100,000 tons per year. The same cool tunnels in which the mushrooms grow provide an ideal storage place for the local mousseux (sparkling wines); many of the vineyards hereabouts are open for public tours.

Getting Here

More than a dozen daily direct trains link Saumur to Tours (45 mins, €12) and Angers (20–30 mins, €8.90).

Visitor Information

Saumur Tourist Office. | 8 bis quai Carnot | 02–41–40–20–60 | www.ot-saumur.fr.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Cadre Noir de Saumur (Riding School).

This prestigious national equestrian academy trains France’s future riding stars. Unique in Europe, the Cadre Noir de Saumur has 400 horses, extensive stables, five Olympic-size riding rings, and miles of specially laid tracks. Try for a morning tour, which gives you a chance to admire the horses in training. A gala equestrian performance is put on for enthusiastic crowds during special weekends in March, April, June, July, and October; reservations are a must. | Av. de l’Ecole Nationale d’Equitation | 02–41–53–50–60 | www.cadrenoir.fr | €8 | Guided tours only, mid-Feb.–mid-Apr. and mid-Oct.–early Nov., Mon. 2:30 and 4, Tues.–Fri. 9:30, 11, 2:30, and 4, Sat. 9:30–11; mid-Apr.–mid-Oct., Mon. 2, 2:30, 3, 3:30, and 4, Tues.–Fri. every ½ hr 9:30–4, except noon–2, Sat. every ½ hr 9:30–11:30. Closed during performances.

Château de Saumur.

If you arrive in the evening, the sight of the floodlighted 14th-century Château de Saumur will take your breath away. Look familiar? Probably because you’ve seen the elegant white edifice in reproductions of the famous Très Riches Heures (Book of Hours) painted for the Duc de Berry in 1416. Inside it’s bright and cheerful, with a gorgeous gateway and plentiful potted flowers. Owing to renovation of the castle walls, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (Decorative Arts Museum), formerly housed in the château, has been permanently closed, but exhibitions from the Musée du Cheval (Equestrian Museum) can be seen on the castle’s first floor; visitors can also access the gardens and panoramic terrace. July through August there are temporary expositions open in certain areas of the château, as well as Medieval reenactments of jousting matches during the day and a sound-and-light show at night (Thursday through Saturday, €19). From the cliff-side promenade beyond the parking lot there’s a thrilling vista of the castle on its bluff against the river backdrop. | Esplanade du Château | 02–41–40–24–40 | www.ot-saumur.fr | €9 in July and Aug.; €5 other months | Apr.–mid-June and mid-Sept.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10–1 and 2–5:30; mid-June–mid-Sept., daily 10–6.

Maison des Vins de Loire (House of Wine).

Saumur is the heart of one of the finest wine regions in France. To pay a call on some of the vineyards around the city, first stop into the Maison des Vins de Loire for the full scoop on hours and directions; its English-language website is also a helpful resource. | 7 quai Carnot | 02–41–38–45–83 | www.vinsdeloire.fr | Apr., Tues.–Sat. 10–1 and 2:30–6:30; May–Sept., Tues.–Sat. 9:30–1 and 2–7; Mon. 2–7 and Sun. 9:30–1; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Fri. 10:30–12:30 and 3–6:30, Sat. 10:30–12:30 and 2:30–6:30. Closed mid-Jan.–mid-Feb.

Here are some of the top vineyards of the Saumur region. If wine-tasting tours inspire you, enterprising winemakers will arrange shipments.

Ackerman.

For sparkling Saumur wine—including a rare red—try a tour and a tasting at Ackerman. | 19 rue Léopold-Palustre, St-Hilaire | 02–41–53–03–21 | www.ackerman-remypannier.com | €3.

Les Caves Louis de Grenelle.

In the center of town and easily accessible on foot or by car, Les Caves Louis de Grenelle offers a fascinating 90-minute tour through the 15th-century quarry tunnels that today serve as aging cellars; a tasting of sparkling and still wines is included. | 839 rue Marceau | 02–41–50–23–21 | www.caves-de-grenelle.fr | €2.50 | Apr.–Sept., Sun.–Fri. 10–noon and 1:30–6; Oct.–Mar., weekdays 10–noon and 1:30–6.

Veuve Amiot.

This long-established producer of Saumur wines offers guided tours of its production facilities and cellars, followed by a wine-tasting session—all free of charge. | 21 rue Jean-Ackerman, St-Hilaire | 02–41–83–14–14 | www.veuve-amiot.com | Daily 10–1 and 2–6; closed Sun. in Jan. and Feb.

WHERE TO STAY

Anne d’Anjou.

HOTEL | With a spectacular setting at the foot of Saumur castle, a flower-strewn courtyard, and views of the Loire from some of the guest rooms (the finest of which retain their original late-18th- and early-19th-century decoration), it’s an understatement to describe this elegant spot as “appealing.” Les Ménestrels, the hotel restaurant (closed Sunday), is an added bonus; located in a lovingly restored 16th-century house up against the castle cliff, it features a seasonally-changing menu plus an impressive wine list. Pros: classic architecture; serious restaurant; free Wi-Fi. Cons: smallish rooms; rooms facing the river get traffic noise. | Rooms from: €115 | 32 quai Mayaud | 02–41–67–30–30 | www.hotel-anneanjou.com | 42 rooms | Some meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Saint-Pierre.

HOTEL | At the very epicenter of historic Saumur, this little 15th- to 17th-century house is hidden beneath the medieval walls of the church of Saint-Pierre—look for its entrance on one of the pedestrian passages that circle the nave. After being graciously greeted in the sweet reception area, you’ll be ushered up the Renaissance corkscrew staircase (or modern mini-elevator) to a refined guest room. Designer fabrics, antique pont cabinets (forming a “bridge” over bed headboards), elegant wainscoting, Persian rugs, tuffeau fireplaces, and bathrooms replete with Paloma Picasso designs make this a favored home-away-from-home for Saumur’s most savvy visitors. The rooms facing the church, although smaller, are quieter than those overlooking the road leading up to the castle. Pros: central location; sophisticated decor. Cons: no restaurant (but café-lined place St-Pierre, is just steps away); some rooms face busy road. | Rooms from: €120 | Rue Haute-Saint-Pierre | 02–41–50–33–00 | www.saintpierresaumur.com | 14 rooms, 1 suite | No meals.

ANGERS

45 km (28 miles) northwest of Saumur, 88 km (55 miles) northeast of Nantes.

The bustling city of Angers, on the banks of the Maine River, just north of the Loire, has a fine Gothic cathedral, a tempting selection of art galleries, plus a network of pleasant, traffic-free streets lined with half-timber houses. Its focal point, though, is the imposing, tower-ringed Château d’Angers. After contemplating the massive, medieval Apocalypse Tapestry, which is beautifully displayed inside it, cap your day with a sip of Cointreau, the popular locally made liqueur.

Getting Here and Around

TGVs from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse depart for Angers every hour or so; the 290-km (180-mile) trip takes 95 minutes (€54). Multiple daily direct trains connect Angers to Saumur (20–30 mins, €8.90), Tours (60–95 mins, €18.50), Blois (85 mins, €26.80), and Orléans (2 hrs, 5 mins; €33.60). Angers’s principal sights lie within a compact square formed by the three main boulevards and the Maine, all accessible via the city tramway.

Visitor Information

Angers Tourist Office. | 7 pl. Kennedy | 02–41–23–50–00 | www.angersloiretourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Carré Cointreau.

To learn about the heartwarming liqueur made in Angers since 1849, head to the Carré Cointreau on the east side of the city. Guided tours of the distillery start with an introductory film, move past “cointreauversial” advertising posters, through the bottling plant and alembic room with its gleaming copper-pot stills, and end with a tasting. English tours are staged at 3 pm. TIP City bus No. 6 from the Angers train station gets you here in 17 minutes. | 2 bd. des Bretonnières | St-Barthélémy d’Anjou | 02–41–31–50–50 | www.cointreau.fr | €10 | Tues.–Sat. 11–6 (reservations essential).

Cathédrale St-Maurice.

This 12th- and 13th-century Gothic edifice is noted for its curious Romanesque facade and original stained-glass windows; bring binoculars to appreciate both fully. The medieval Treasury is open to the public Monday through Saturday in summer (every other Saturday off-season) from 2:30 to 6. | Pl. Monseigneur-Chappoulie | 02–41–87–58–45.

Château d’Angers.

The banded black-and-white Château d’Angers, built by St. Louis (1228–38), glowers over the town from behind turreted moats, now laid out as gardens and overrun with flowers. As you explore the grounds, note the startling contrast between the thick defensive walls, guarded by a drawbridge and 17 massive round towers in a distinctive pattern, and the formal garden, with its delicate white-tufa chapel, erected in the 15th century. For a sweeping view of the city and surrounding countryside, climb one of the castle towers. A well-integrated modern gallery on the castle grounds contains the great Tenture de l’Apocalypse (Apocalypse Tapestry), woven in Paris in the 1380s for the Duke of Anjou. Measuring 16 feet high and 120 yards long, its many panels show a series of 70 horrifying and humorous scenes from the Book of Revelation. In one, mountains of fire fall from heaven while boats capsize and men struggle in the water; another features the Beast with Seven Heads. | 2 promenade du Bout-du-Monde | 02–41–86–48–77 | angers.monuments-nationaux.fr | €8.50 (audioguide €4.50) | May–Aug., daily 9:30–6:30; Sept.–Apr., daily 10–5:30.

Musée des Beaux Arts.

Set within the 15th-century Logis Barrault, the Musée des Beaux Arts (Fine Arts Museum) has an art collection spanning the 14th to the 21st century, as well as a section depicting the history of Angers through archeological and artistic works from the Neolithic period to the present. The vast museum complex combines historic architecture with contemporary lighting and signage to optimize the experience. | 14 rue du Museé | 02–41–05–38–00 | www.musees.angers.fr | €4 (€6 with temporary exhibition) | Mid-May–mid-Sept., daily 10–6:30; mid-Sept.–mid-May, Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Best Western Hôtel d’Anjou.

HOTEL | In business since 1846, the Anjou has vintage stained-glass windows in the Art Deco lobby and spacious guest rooms featuring high ceilings, double doors, and modern bathrooms; choose one of the extra-large corner rooms if available. Reasonably priced prix-fixe menus are served in its fine Renaissance-style restaurant, La Salamandre (closed Sunday in July and August), named for the symbol of the great Loire Valley king François I. Pros: central location; stylish public areas; free breakfast and Wi-Fi. Cons: sardine-size elevator; busy street outside. | Rooms from: €72 | 1 bd. du Maréchal-Foch | 02–41–21–12–11 | www.hoteldanjou.fr | 53 rooms | Breakfast.

Mail.

HOTEL | A stately lime tree stands sentinel behind wrought-iron, wisteria-framed gates outside this 17th-century mansion on a calm street between the Hôtel de Ville and the river—but inside prepare for a surprise. An extreme makeover has given these interiors a spiffy, contemporary air. The blazing red reception area, smartly adorned with modern seating, segues to the upstairs guest rooms: rather petit, most are decorated in sunny yellow or pastel tones. Pros: calm; good value. Cons: small rooms; those on the top floor can get quite warm in summer; no elevator. | Rooms from: €75 | 8 rue des Ursules | 02–41–25–05–25 | www.hoteldumail.fr | 26 rooms | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Angers Tempo Rives (Angers Summer Music Festival).

In July and August, the Tempo Rives music festival hosts free riverfront concerts on the Cale de la Savatte, overlooking the Château d’Angers. | Cale de la Savatte | 02–41–05–41–48 | www.temporives.fr.

THE OUTDOORS

Centre Nautique du Lac de Maine (Maine Lake Nautical Center).

Go canoeing, sailing, fishing, or windsurfing at the Centre Nautique du Lac de Maine, 3 km (2 miles) southwest of the city. | 75 av. du Lac-de-Maine | 02–41–22–32–20 | www.lacdemaine.fr.

QUICK BITES: Le Tasting Room.

Based in an ancient farmhouse between Angers and Saumur, Le Tasting Room is a small company that showcases the Loire Valley’s best wines through all-inclusive tastings and tours. Run by friendly British transplants Cathy and Nigel Henton, who have more than 25 years of experience in the wine industry, the fun, informative vino-themed experiences provide you with an insider’s perspective. You’ll be picked up at Angers train station, given a primer on local wines, served a home-cooked meal, and then taken to see the neighboring vineyards. The Hentons can also recommend local accommodations or help plan your day trip from Paris. Prices start at €130 per person. | 37 Chemin du Lavoir | Cumeray | 02–41–79–80–21 | www.letastingroom.com.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Normandy

Upper Normandy

Lower Normandy

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planning | Dining in Normandy | Apple Country

Updated by Jack Vermee

Normandy—shaped roughly like a jigsaw puzzle piece—sprawls across France’s northwestern corner. Due to its geographic position, this region is blessed with a stunning natural beauty that once inspired Maupassant and Monet. Little wonder today’s sightseers pack into colorful Rouen, seaside Honfleur, and magnificent Mont-St-Michel. Happily, it is easy to escape all those travelers. Simply lose yourself along the spectacular cliff-lined coast or in the green spaces inland, where the closest thing to a crowd is a farmer with his herd of brown-and-white cows. Whatever road you turn down, the region is sure to enchant.

Say the name “Normandy,” and which Channel-side scenario comes to mind? Are you reminded of the dramatic silhouette of Mont-St-Michel looming above the tidal flats, its cobbles echoing with the footfalls of medieval scholars? Or do you think of iron-gray convoys massing silently at dawn, lowering tailgates to pour troops of young Allied infantrymen into the line of German machine-gun fire? At Omaha Beach you may marvel at the odds faced by the handful of soldiers who in June 1944 were able to rise above the waterfront carnage to capture the cliff-top battery, paving the way for the Allies’ reconquest of Europe.

Perhaps you think of Joan of Arc—imprisoned by the English yet burned at the Rouen stake by the Church she believed in? In a modern church you may light a candle on the very spot where, in 1431, the Maiden Warrior sizzled into history at the hands of panicky politicians and time-serving clerics: a dark deed that marked a turning point in the Hundred Years’ War.

The destinies of England and Normandy have been intertwined ever since William, Duke of Normandy, insisted that King Edward the Confessor had promised him the succession to the English crown. When a royal council instead anointed the Anglo-Saxon Harold Godwinsson, the irate William stormed across the Channel with 7,000 well-equipped archers, well-mounted knights, and well-paid Frankish mercenaries. They landed at Pevensey Bay on September 28, 1066, and two weeks later, conquered at Hastings.

There followed nearly 400 years of Norman sovereignty in England. For generations England and Normandie (as the French spell it) blurred, merged, and diverged. Today you can still feel the strong flow of English culture over the Channel, from the Deauville horse races frequented by high-born ladies in gloves, to silver spoons mounded high with teatime cream; from the bowfront, slope-roof shops along the harbor at Honfleur to the black-and-white row houses of Rouen, which would seem just as much at home in the setting of David Copperfield as they are in Madame Bovary.

The French divide Normandy into two: Haute-Normandie and Basse-Normandie. Upper (Haute) Normandy is delineated by the Seine as it meanders northwest from the Ile-de-France between chalky cliffs and verdant hills to Rouen—the region’s cultural and commercial capital—and on to the port of Le Havre. Pebbly beaches and even more impressive chalk cliffs line the Côte d’Alabâtre (Alabaster Coast) from Le Havre to Dieppe. Lower (Basse) Normandy encompasses the sandy Côte Fleurie, stretching from the resort towns of Trouville and Deauville to the D-Day landing beaches and the Cotentin Peninsula, jutting out into the English Channel.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Mont-St-Michel: The spire-top silhouette of this mighty offshore mound, dubbed the Marvel of the Occident, is one of the greatest sights in Europe. Plan to arrive at high tide, when the water races across the endless sands.

Bayeux: Come not just for the splendor of the tapestry telling how William conquered England, but also for untouched medieval buildings and the beefy, bonnet-top cathedral.

Honfleur: From France’s prettiest harbor, bobbing with boats and lined with beam-fronted houses, you can head to the ravishing wooden church of Ste-Catherine.

Rouen: Sanctified by the memory of Jeanne d’Arc, hallowed by its towering Gothic cathedral, and graced by a huge Renaissance clock, Rouen is the gateway to Normandy.

D-Day Beaches: Contemplate the dramatic deeds of World War II by visiting Caen’s Mémorial, then touring the beaches from rocky Omaha to pancake-flat Utah.

GETTING ORIENTED

The Seine Valley divides Normandy in two as it flows northwest from Paris through Rouen and into the English Channel at Le Havre. To the north lies Upper Normandy and a spectacular coastline of towering chalk cliffs called the Côte d’Alabâtre (Alabaster Coast). West of the Seine lies Lower Normandy, full of lush meadows and lined with the sandy beaches of the Côte Fleurie, or Flower Coast. (These are the same beaches where the Allies landed on D-Day.) Far to the west, at the foot of the sparsely populated Cotentin Peninsula, the offshore Mont-St-Michel patrols one of the continent’s biggest bays.

WHAT’S WHERE

Upper Normandy. Haute-Normandie is anchored by Rouen. Despite being battered in World War II, this alluring gateway city retains such an overwhelming number of churches, chapels, towers, fountains, and old cross-beam houses that many visitors take two full days to soak it all in. Heading some 60 km (35 miles) northwest to the Channel shore, the Côte d’Alabâtre (Alabaster Coast) beckons. Named for the white cliffs that stretch north, it includes the spectacular rock formations at Étretat that inspired Monet to pick up his paint brush. Nearby Fécamp bridges the sacred and secular with its noted Benedictine abbey and distillery.

Lower Normandy. Basse-Normandie begins with the sandy Côte Fleurie (Flower Coast), announced by seaside Honfleur, an artist’s paradise full of half-timber houses. Just south, Rothschilds by the Rolls arrive in season at the Belle Époque beach resort of Deauville. Modern, student-filled Caen is famed for two gigantic abbey churches begun by William the Conqueror, who is immortalized in nearby Bayeux’s legendary tapestry. This town makes a great base for exploring somber D-Day sites along Utah and Omaha beaches; bus tours and moving memorials make a fitting prelude for a drive across Normandy’s Cotentin Peninsula to Mont-St-Michel, whose tiny island is crowned by one of the most gorgeous Gothic abbeys in France.

PLANNING

WHEN TO GO

July and August are the busiest months but also the most activity filled: Concerts are held every evening at Mont-St-Michel, and the region’s most important equestrian events are held in Deauville, culminating with the Gold Cup Polo Championship and the Grand Prix race in late August. June 6, the anniversary of the Allied invasion, is the most popular time to visit the D-Day beaches. If you’re trying to avoid crowds, come in late spring or early autumn, when it is still fairly temperate. May finds the apple trees in full bloom and miles of waving flaxseed fields spotted with tiny sky-blue flowers. Some of Normandy’s biggest events take place during these seasons: Rouen, for example, honors Joan of Arc at a festival named for her in late May, and Deauville hosts the American Film Festival in early September.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Normandy is a big region with lots to see. If you have 10 days or so you can do it justice. If not, you’ll need to prioritize. In search of natural beauty? Head to the coastline north of Le Havre. Prefer sea and sand? Beat it to the beaches west of Trouville. Love little villages? Honfleur is one of France’s most picturesque old fishing ports. Like city life? Pretty Rouen is for you. Are you a history buff? Base yourself in Caen to tour the D-Day beaches. Can’t get enough of churches and cathedrals? You can go pretty much anywhere, but don’t miss Bayeux, Rouen, or Mont-St-Michel. (The last is a bit isolated, so you might want to get there directly from Paris, or at the start or end of a Brittany tour.)

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

High-speed rail service is very limited in Normandy—perhaps because it’s so close to Paris or because it’s not on a lucrative route to a neighboring country; depending on your destination, though, the regional rail network can be helpful. Rouen is the train hub for Upper Normandy, Caen for Lower Normandy. Unless you’re driving, you’ll ultimately need a bus to reach coastal locales like Honfleur and Mont-St-Michel. To visit the D-Day beaches, a guided minibus tour, leaving from Caen or Bayeux, is your best bet. For motorists, the A13 expressway is the gateway from Paris, running northwest to Rouen and then to Caen. From here the A84 takes you almost all the way to Mont-St-Michel, and the N13 brings you to Bayeux. If you’re arriving from England or northern Europe, the A16/A28 from Calais to Rouen is a scenic (and near-empty) delight.

Air Travel

Air travelers will likely land at one of Paris’s two major airports and proceed onward by bus, train, or car; however, Normandy does have its own regional facilities. These include Aéroport de Caen-Carpiquet, which receives regular domestic flights from Air France (www.airfrance.com) and budget carrier HOP! (|www.hop.fr); and Aéroport de Deauville-Normandie, which receives twice-weekly flights from London operated by CityJet (|www.cityjet.com). Note: If your primary goal is to see Mont-St-Michel, Ryanair (|www.ryanair.com) flies from London to the Breton town of Dinard (|02–99–46–18–46 |www.dinard.aeroport.fr), putting you just 56 km (35 miles) west of the Mont.

Airport Information

Aéroport de Caen-Carpiquet. | Rte. de Caumont, | Carpiquet | 02–31–71–20–10 | www.caen.aeroport.fr.

Aéroport de Deauville - Normandie. | Saint Gatien des Bois | 02–31–65–65–65 | www.deauville.aeroport.fr.

Bus Travel

Cars Perier runs buses from Fécamp to Le Havre, stopping in Étretat along the way. Bus Verts du Calvados covers the coast, connecting Caen with Honfleur, Bayeux, and other towns. Bus routes operated by Keolis and VTNI link many destinations, including Rouen, Fécamp, Étretat, Le Havre, Caen, Honfleur, Deauville, Trouville, and Arromanches. For Mont-St-Michel, catch buses from nearby Pontorson, or from St-Malo or Rennes in adjacent Brittany. Schedules are available at tourist offices and at the local gare routière (bus station).

Bus Information

Bus Verts du Calvados. | 08–10–21–42–14 | www.busverts.fr.

Cars Perier. | 08–00–80–87–03 | www.cars-perier.fr.

Keolis. | 02-99-19-70-70 | www.keolis-emeraude.com.

VTNI. | 02–32–08–19–75 | www.vtni.fr.

Car Travel

From Paris, A13 slices its way to Rouen in 1½ hours (toll €14.30) before forking to Caen (an additional 87 mins, toll €8.90) or Le Havre (45 mins on A131). N13 continues from Caen to Bayeux in another two hours. At Caen, the A84 forks off southwest toward Mont-St-Michel and Rennes. The Pont de Normandie, spanning the Seine between Le Havre and Honfleur, effectively unites Upper and Lower Normandy.

Ferry and Eurotunnel Travel

A number of companies sail between the United Kingdom and ports in Normandy. Brittany Ferries travels from Portsmouth to Le Havre, Caen, and Cherbourg year-round; its vessels run from Poole to Cherbourg as well. Daily ferries operated by LD lines connect Newhaven with Dieppe, and Portsmouth with Le Havre. The quickest crossing—a three-hour voyage between Portsmouth and Caen—costs about €100 for a car and two passengers. If you’d rather travel under the Channel than on it, you can drive your car or motorcycle onto a Eurotunnel train at Folkestone for the 35-minute trip to Calais.

Boat Information

Brittany Ferries. | 08–25–82–88–28 in France (€0.34 per min), 0871/244–0744 in U.K. | www.brittany-ferries.com.

Eurotunnel Le Shuttle. | 08–10–63–03–04 in France €0.15 per min, 0844/335–3535 in U.K. | www.eurotunnel.com.

LD Lines. | 08–25–30–43–04 in France €0.15 per min, 0844/576–8836 in U.K. | www.ldlines.fr.

Train Travel

TGV trains connect Rouen to Marseille (5 hrs, 30 mins; €173) and Lyon (4 hrs, €57) once a day: neither runs through Paris. From the capital, separate SNCF rail lines originating at Gare St-Lazare head to Upper Normandy (Rouen and Le Havre) and Lower Normandy (Deauville-Trouville, Caen, and Bayeux, sometimes requiring a change in Lisieux). But unless you’re content to stick to the major towns, visiting Normandy by train can be frustrating. You can occasionally reach smaller ones (such as Fécamp) on snail-paced branch lines, but the irregular intricacies of what is said to be Europe’s most complicated regional timetable may prove daunting. Other destinations, like Honfleur, Étretat, or Mont-St-Michel invariably require a train/bus combination.

Train Information

Gare SNCF Rouen. | 1 pl. Bernard Tissot, | Rouen.

SNCF. | 3635 €0.34 per min | www.ter-sncf.com.

TOURING THE D-DAY BEACHES

One of modern history’s landmark events—the D-Day invasion of June 1944—was enacted on the beaches of Normandy. Omaha Beach, Utah Beach, as well as many sites on the Cotentin Peninsula, all bear witness to the furious fighting that once raged in this now-peaceful corner of France. Today, as seagulls sweep over the cliffs where American rangers scrambled desperately up ropes to silence murderous German batteries, visitors wander through the blockhouses and peer into the bomb craters, the carnage of battle now a distant, if still horrifying, memory.

Unless you have a car, the D-Day beaches are best visited by bus. Public ones are relatively rare, but Bus No. 74 does go to Arromanches and Bus No. 70 heads to Omaha Beach and the American cemetery (summer only); Bus Verts du Calvados, meanwhile, has a “Circuit Caen-Omaha Beach” route that connects many of the D-Day sights.

As for guided bus excursions, Normandy Tours departs twice daily from Bayeux’s Hotel de la Gare, carrying passengers in an eight-person minibus. The guides are walking encyclopedias of local war lore and may be flexible about points interesting to you. Half-day tours (€62 including museum fees) are available all year in English; full day outings are offered as well.

Other Bayeux-based outfits include Normandy Sightseeing Tours, with half- and full-day options costing €45–€60 and €90 respectively. Paul Woodadge, the “D-Day Historian,” offers highly acclaimed, customized tours for up to eight people with an all-inclusive price tag of €600 for a full-day, full-immersion experience (children under 12 not permitted).

In Caen, the stunning Mémorial museum organizes a series of daily English-language outings; prices (starting at €39) depend on the sites included and mode of transportation used. If you’re staying in Paris—and have lots of stamina—Paris City Vision also runs 12–14 hour tours to key D-Day locales; the cost is €175 by coach and €240 by minivan.

D-Day Historian. | Bayeux | 02–31–22–28–82 | www.ddayhistorian.com.

Mémorial Tours. | Esplanade General Eisenhower | Caen | 02–31–06–06–44 | www.memorial-caen.fr.

Normandy Sightseeing Tours. | 6 rue St Jean | Bayeux | 02–31–51–70–52 | www.normandy-sightseeing-tours.com.

Normandy Tours. | 26 pl. de la Gare | Bayeux | 02–31–92–10–70 | www.normandy-landing-tours.com.

Paris City Vision. | 2 rue des Pyramides | Paris | 01–44–55–61–00 | www.pariscityvision.com.

HOTELS

Accommodations to suit every taste can be found throughout Normandy, from basic bed-and-breakfasts to luxurious hotels—although there’s a slimmer selection of the latter than you might expect in the region’s two largest cities (Rouen and Caen). Even in popular resorts towns like Deauville and Trouville it’s possible to find delightful, inexpensive vacation spots. Spending the night on Mont-St-Michel is especially memorable, but be sure to reserve your room weeks in advance. Prices are ratcheted up in summer all along the coast, and you will need to book ahead, especially on weekends. In the beach resorts the season runs from the end of April to October, and many hotels are closed in winter. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

The Normandy Regional Tourist Board’s website is an invaluable source of information. For specifics about visiting Upper Normandy, contact Région Haute-Normandie; for Lower Normandy, contact Région Basse-Normandie. The numerous local tourist offices (listed under town names below) are also very useful.

Normandy Regional Tourist Board. | www.normandie-tourisme.fr.

Région Basse-Normandie. | Abbaye-aux-Dames, Pl. Reine Mathilde | Caen | 02–31–06–98–98 | www.region-basse-normandie.fr.

Région Haute-Normandie. | Hôtel de Région,5 rue Robert Schuman | Rouen | 02–35–52–56–00 | www.hautenormandie.fr.

DINING IN NORMANDY

The felicitous combination of dairy farms, apple orchards, and the sea inspire Normandy’s crème de la crème cuisine, featuring voluptuous cream sauces, tender cheeses, lavish seafood platters, and head-spinning Calvados brandy.

Normandy’s verdant landscape—a patchwork of pastures and orchards bordered by the sea—heralds a region of culinary delights. The apples feature in tarts, cakes, sauces, and cidre bouché, a sparkling cider sold in cork-top bottles. Brown-and-white cows—the famous vaches normandes—grazing beneath the apple blossoms each produce up to seven gallons of milk a day, destined to become golden butter, thick crème fraîche, and prized cheeses. Coastal waters from Dieppe to Granville are equally generous, yielding sole, turbot, and oysters. To fully appreciate Normandy’s gastronomic wealth, stroll through a weekend market, such as the splendid Saturday morning affair in Honfleur on the place Ste-Catherine, sample a seafood platter at a boardwalk café in Deauville, or meet the omelet of your dreams at La Mère Poulard at Mont-Saint-Michel.

APPLE COUNTRY

One fragrance evokes Normandy—the pungent, earthy smell of apples awaiting the press in the autumn. Normandy is apple country, where apples with quaint varietal names, such as Windmill and Donkey Snout, are celebrated in the region’s gastronomy, along the Route du Cidre, or at Vimoutier’s Foire de la Pomme (Apple Festival) in October (where they vote for the Most Beautiful Apple).

Cheese Platter

Camembert is king in the dairy realm of Normandy. This tangy, opulently creamy cow’s-milk cheese with the star billing and worldwide reputation hails from the Auge region. The best—Véritable Camembert de Normandie—with velvety white rinds and supple, sometimes oozy interiors, are produced on small farms, such as the esteemed Moulin de Carel.

Other members of Normandy’s (cheese) board are the savory, grassy Pont L’Évêque, the impressively pungent Livarot with rust-color rind, and the Pavé d’Auge, a robust cheese with a honey-hue center.

Calvados

There are no wines in Normandy, but the region makes its mark in the spirits world with the apple-based Calvados, a fragrant oak-aged brandy.

Like Cognac, Calvados, which is distilled from cider, gets better and more expensive with age.

Top producers, such as Dupont in Victot-Pontfol and Pierre Huet in Cambremer, sell Calvados from “Vieux,” aged a minimum of three years, to “X.O.” or “Napoléon,” aged from 6 to 25 years.

Many producers also offer Pommeau, an aperitif blending cider with a generous dose of Calvados.

On the Half Shell

Few places in France make an oyster lover happier than Normandy’s Cotentin Peninsula, where the land juts into the sea a few miles beyond the Landing Beaches.

Ports such as Blanville-sur-Mer, Granville, and particularly St-Vaast-La Hougue, are where oystermen haul in tons of plump, briny oysters distinguished by a subtle note of hazelnut.

Enjoy a dozen on the half shell at the many traditional restaurants in this region, accompanied by a saucer of shallot vinegar and brown bread.

Omelet Extraordinaire

There is no more famous omelet in the world than the puffy, pillow-like confection offered at La Mère Poulard in Mont-Saint-Michel.

Whipped with a balloon whisk in a large copper bowl, then cooked in a long-handled skillet over a wood fire, the omelet is delicately browned and crusted on the outside, as soft and airy as a soufflé within.

Order the omelet with ham and cheese as a main course, or sugared and flambéed as a divine dessert.

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Rouen | Fécamp | Étretat | Le Havre

From Rouen to the coast, medieval castles and abbeys stand guard above rolling countryside, while seaside vacation communities and vintage fishing towns line the white cliffs of the Côte d’Alabâtre (Alabaster Coast). In the 19th century, the dramatic scenery and bathing resorts along this shore attracted creative souls like Maupassant, Monet, and Braque—and today it has the same effect on thousands of visitors.

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ROUEN

130 km (80 miles) northwest of Paris, 86 km (53 miles) east of Le Havre.

“O Rouen, art thou then to be my final abode!” was the agonized cry of Joan of Arc as the English dragged her out to be burned alive in the market square on May 30, 1431. The exact location of her pyre is marked by a concrete-and-metal cross in front of the modern Église Jeanne-d’Arc—and that eye-catching, flame-evoking church is just one of the many landmarks that make this sizeable port city so fascinating. Once the capital of the duchy of Normandy, it was hit hard during World War II, but a wealth of medieval half-timber houses still line the tiny cobblestone streets of Vieux Rouen. The most famous of those streets—the rue du Gros-Horloge, between place du Vieux-Marché (where Joan burned) and Cathédrale Notre-Dame—is suitably embellished halfway along with a massive and much photographed 14th-century horloge (clock). Of course, the glorious cathedral itself is nothing to scoff at: Claude Monet immortalized it in a memorable series of paintings.

Getting Here

Rouen-bound trains leave Paris’s Gare St-Lazare every half hour or so (75 mins, €23.50); rail links are also available from Caen (90 mins, €26.80) and Fécamp (90 mins, €14.90).

Visitor Information

Rouen Tourist Office. | 25 pl. de la Cathédrale | 02–32–08–32–40 | www.rouentourisme.com.

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EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Abbaye St-Ouen.

Next to the imposing Neoclassical City Hall, this stupendous example of high Gothic architecture is noted for its stained-glass windows, dating from the 14th to the 16th century. They are the most spectacular grace notes of the spare interior along with the 19th-century pipe organ, among the finest in France. | Portail des Marmousets, Pl. du Général-de-Gaulle, Hôtel de Ville | 02–32–08–13–90 | Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Thurs. and weekends 10–noon and 2–6; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Thurs. and weekends 10–noon and 2–5.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame.

Even in the so-called “City of 100 Spires” the one crowning this cathedral stands out. Erected in 1876, it’s the highest in France—a cast-iron tour-de-force rising 490 feet above the crossing. The original 12th-century construction was replaced after a devastating fire in 1200; only the left-hand spire, the Tour St-Romain (St. Romanus Tower), survived the flames. Construction on the imposing 250-foot steeple on the right, known as the Tour de Beurre (Butter Tower), was begun in the 15th century and completed in the 17th, when a group of wealthy citizens donated large sums of money for the privilege of continuing to eat butter during Lent. Interior highlights include the 13th-century choir, with its pointed arcades; vibrant stained glass depicting the crucified Christ (restored after heavy damage during World War II); and massive stone columns topped by some intriguing carved faces. The first flight of the famous Escalier de la Librairie (Library Stairway), attributed to Guillaume Pontifs (also responsible for most of the 15th-century work seen in the cathedral), rises from a tiny balcony just to the left of the transept. | Pl. de la Cathédrale, St-Maclou | 02–32–08–32–40 | www.cathedrale-rouen.net | Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sat. 9–7, Sun. 8–6; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Sat. 9–noon and 2–6, Sun. 2–6 | Tours €2.

Gros-Horloge.

The name of the pedestrian Rue du Gros-Horloge, Rouen’s most popular street, comes from the Gros-Horloge itself, a giant Renaissance clock. In 1527 the Rouennais had a splendid arch built especially for it, and today its golden face looks out over the street. You can see the clock’s inner workings from the 15th-century belfry. Though the street is crammed with stores, a few old houses dating from the 16th century remain. Wander through the surrounding Vieux Rouen (Old Rouen), a warren of tiny streets lined with more than 700 half-timber houses, many artfully transformed into fashionable shops. | Rue du Gros-Horloge, Vieux-Marché | 02–32–08–01–90 | €6 | July and Aug., 9–6; Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10–1 and 2–7; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 2–6.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

One of Rouen’s cultural mainstays, this museum is famed for its stellar collection of paintings and sculptures from the 16th to the 20th century, including works by native son Géricault as well as by David, Rubens, Caravaggio, Velasquez, Poussin, Delacroix, Degas, and Modigliani. Most popular of all, however, is the impressive Impressionist gallery, with Monet, Renoir, and Sisley, plus the Postimpressionist School of Rouen headed by Albert Lebourg and Gustave Loiseau. | Esplanade Marcel-Duchamp, Gare | 02–35–71–28–40 | rouen-musees.fr | €5 (free 1st Sun. of month), €8 includes Musée Le Secq des Tournelles and Musée de la Céramique | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

St-Maclou.

A late-Gothic masterpiece, this church sits across Rue de la République behind the cathedral and bears testimony to the wild excesses of Flamboyant architecture. Take time to examine the central and left-hand portals of the main facade, covered with little bronze lion heads and pagan engravings. Inside, note the 16th-century organ, with its Renaissance wood carving, and the fine marble columns. | 3 pl. Barthélémy, St-Maclou | 02–32–08–13–90 | Apr.–Oct., weekends 10–noon and 2–6; Nov., Mar., weekends 10–noon and 2–5:30; Dec.–Feb., Sun. 10–noon and 2–5:30.

Tour Jeanne-d’Arc.

Sole remnant of the early-13th-century castle built by French king Philippe-Auguste, this beefy, pointed-top circular tower provides a fine photo-op. Inside you’ll find a small exhibit of documents and models charting the history of the castle where Joan of Arc was tried and held prisoner in 1430. | Rue Bouvreuil, Gare | 02–35–98–16–21 | www.tourjeannedarc.fr | €1.50 | Apr.–Sept., Mon.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–6, Sun. 2–6:30; Oct.–Mar., Mon.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–5, Sun. 2–5:30.

Worth Noting

Aître St-Maclou.

This former ossuary (a charnel house used for the bodies of plague victims) is a reminder of the “Black Death” that devastated Europe during the Middle Ages; these days it holds Rouen’s Fine Art Academy. French composer Camille Saint-Saëns (1835–1921) is said to have been inspired by the ossuary when he was working on his Danse Macabre. The half-timber courtyard, where you can wander at leisure, and perhaps see an art exhibition, contains graphic carvings of skulls, bones, and gravediggers’ tools. | 186 rue Martainville, St-Maclou | 02–76–08–81–13 | Weekdays 8–6; Nov.–Mar., daily 9–6.

Église Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc Church).

Dedicated to Joan of Arc, this church was built in the 1970s on the spot where she was burned to death in 1431. The aesthetic merit of its odd cement-and-wood design is debatable—the shape of the roof is supposed to symbolize the flames of Joan’s fire. Not all is new, however: the church showcases some remarkable 16th-century stained-glass windows taken from the former Église St-Vincent, bombed out in 1944. | pl. du Vieux-Marché, Vieux-Marché | 02–35–88–74–12 | Mon.–Thurs., Sat. 10–noon and 2–6, Fri., Sun. 2–6.

Musée de la Céramique (Ceramics Museum).

A superb array of local pottery and European porcelain can be admired at this museum, housed in an elegant mansion near the Musée des Beaux-Arts. | 1 rue Faucon, Gare | 02–35–07–31–74 | rouen-musees.fr | €3, €8 includes Musée Le Secq des Tournelles and Musée des Beaux-Arts | Wed.–Mon. 2–6.

Musée des Antiquités.

Gallo-Roman glassware and mosaics, medieval tapestries and enamels, and Moorish ceramics vie for attention inside this extensive antiquities museum. Occupying a former 17th-century monastery, it also has a display devoted to natural history, which includes some skeletons dating to prehistoric times. | 198 rue Beauvoisine, Gare | 02–35–98–55–10 | www.museedesantiquites.fr | €3.50 | Tues.–Sat. 10–12:15 and 1:30–5:30, Sun. 2–6.

Musée Le Secq des Tournelles (Wrought Iron Museum).

Not far from the Musée des Beaux-Arts, this museum claims to have the world’s finest collection of wrought iron, with exhibits spanning the 4th through the 19th century. The displays, imaginatively housed in a converted medieval church, include the professional instruments of surgeons, barbers, carpenters, clockmakers, and gardeners. | 2 rue Jacques-Villon, Gare | 02–35–88–42–92 | rouen-musees.fr | €3, €8 includes Musée des Beaux-Arts and Musée de la Céramique | Wed.–Mon. 2–6.

QUICK BITES: Maison Hardy.

The friendly Maison Hardy offers zestful service and a splendid view of the picturesque market square, scene of the burning of Joan of Arc, whose story is retraced in colorful frescoes on the café wall. | 22 pl. du Vieux-Marché, Vieux-Marché | 02–35–71–81–55 | www.hardy-traiteur.com | Mon.–Sat. 8:30–7:30.

WHERE TO EAT

Fodor’s Choice | Gill Côté Bistro.

BISTRO | With two Michelin stars under his toque for his tony gastronomic Restaurant Gill, chef Gilles Tournadre jumped at the chance to open a bistro on Rouen’s storied Place du Vieux-Marché. Sleek and modern, it specializes in updated bistro fare. You can order inspired versions of beloved French classics like tête de veau (calf’s head) with sauce gribich (a caper, parsley, and cornichon Hollandaise) or andouillette (tripe sausage), along with more contemporary dishes, including a piquant Caesar salad. Portions are ample and the small but choice menu—with a great-value €22 fixed-price option—changes monthly. Call ahead to reserve a table. | Average main: €17 | 14 pl. du Vieux-Marché, Vieux-Marché | 02–35–89-88-72 | www.gill-cote-bistro.fr | Reservations essential | Daily noon–2:30 and 7:30–10:30.

Fodor’s Choice | La Couronne.

MODERN FRENCH | If P.T. Barnum, Florenz Ziegfeld, and Cecil B. DeMille had put together a spot distilling all the charm and glamour of Normandy, this would be it. Behind a half-timber facade gushing geraniums, the “oldest inn in France,” dating from 1345, is a sometimes-ersatz extravaganza crammed with stained leaded glass, sculpted wood beams, marble Norman chimneys, leather-upholstered chairs, and damask curtains. The Salon Jeanne d’Arc is the largest room and has a wonderful wall-wide sash window and quaint paintings, but the only place to sit is the adorably cozy, wood-lined Salon des Rôtisseurs, an antiquarian’s delight. The star attractions on Vincent Taillefer’s menu—lobster stew with chestnut, sheeps’ feet, duck in blood sauce—make few modern concessions. Dine here and you’ll be adding your name to a list that includes Sophia Loren, John Wayne, Jean-Paul Sartre, Salvador Dalí, and Princess Grace of Monaco. TIP The €35 dinner menu is excellent value. | Average main: €36 | 31 pl. du Vieux-Marché, Vieux-Marché | 02–35–71–40–90 | www.lacouronne.com.fr.

Le 37.

FRENCH | The excellent price-to-quality quotient at this sleek little eatery has made it one of Rouen’s hot spots. Not to mention the added frills of a stylish dining room, solid wine list, and contemporary bistro fare. What Chef Sylvain Nouin’s monthly-changing menu lacks in size (it fits on a small blackboard) it more than makes up for in style. The two-course prix fixe menu (€19.80) is a steal, with offerings like an oxtail mille-feuille with celeriac starter, coriander-roasted chicken with ginger-carrot mousseline, or slow-cooked lamb shank with port-infused prunes and panfried polenta. | Average main: €18 | 37 rue Saint-Etienne-des-Tonneliers, Vieux-Marché | 02–35–70–56–65 | www.le37.fr | Closed Sun., Mon., and 1st 3 wks of Aug.

Les Nymphéas.

FRENCH | Chef Alexandre Dessaux, formerly second in command under Patrick Kukurudz (who served Norman haute cuisine to the town’s gourmands for almost 30 years), took over as head chef in late 2012, thus preserving the traditions of this venerable dining room. At the end of a cobbled courtyard in the city’s old town, the half-timber building is a vintage charmer, and the elegant dining room is cozy and hushed. Regional flourishes—such as panfried bass with leeks and a rich squash sauce, squab with cabbage and duck foie gras, or veal kidneys doused in Bordelaise coulis—dominate the menu. There are several excellent prix-fixe dinner menus (€42–€74), but the best bargain is the weekly lunch menu (€27), which includes a glass of wine. | Average main: €42 | 7–9 rue de la Pie, Vieux-Marché | 02–35–89–26–69 | www.lesnympheas-rouen.com | Closed Mon.; no lunch Tues.; no dinner Sun.

Fodor’s Choice | Restaurant Gill.

FRENCH | On the quay at the heart of Rouen’s gastronomic epicenter, Rouen’s only Michelin two-star restaurant goes to great lengths to make sure you feel pampered from start to finish. That’s not hard to do when Chef Gilles Tournadre (and his charming wife Sylvie) are in charge of things. With a reputation for culinary rigor, this native son is well-versed in the splendors of the Norman woods, fields, and shore: oysters, crab, scallops, lobster, and several types of fish can be found on the menu every day, year-round, along with hare, piglet, and sweetbreads. Signature dishes include pigeon à la Rouennaise and panfried bass with cider jus, apple-onion marmalade, and creamy Calvados foam. When ordering your dinner, remember to request the soufflé made with (what else?) a silky old Norman Calvados. Although the tasting menu is a bit steep, it’s worth the splurge for a primer in one of France’s great regional cuisines. | Average main: €41 | 8–9 quai de la Bourse, Vieux-Marché | 02–35–71–16–14 | www.gill.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., 2 wks in Mar. and 1st 3 wks in Aug.

WHERE TO STAY

Cathédrale.

HOTEL | There are enough half-timber walls and beams here to fill a super-luxe hotel, but the happy news is that this is a budget option—even better, this 17th-century building is found on a narrow pedestrian street just behind Rouen’s cathedral. The pretty Normand style begins in the lobby, extends to the large dining room—fitted out with grand 17th-century-style chairs and a historic fireplace—and crescendos in the flower-laden patio, a green oasis picturesquely framed with walls of timber and stucco. Done largely in pastel patterns, guest rooms are petite but neat and comfortable; No. 28 is the largest. Pros: storybook surroundings; can’t-be-beat location. Cons: some small rooms; no car access. | Rooms from: €90 | 12 rue St-Romain, St-Maclou | 02–35–71–57–95 | www.hotel-de-la-cathedrale.fr | 26 rooms | No meals.

Dieppe.

HOTEL | Established in 1880, the Dieppe remains up-to-date thanks to resolute management by five generations of the Guéret family who welcome guests to their fine restaurant and compact accommodations. Guest rooms (No. 22 is the largest) all have modern color schemes, refurbished bathrooms, and flat-screen TVs. The restaurant, Le Quatre Saisons (no lunch Saturday or dinner on Sunday), serves seasonal dishes with an emphasis on fish, such as the sole Michèle (poached in a light wine sauce), but is best known for its pressed duckling. Pros: personal service; helpful, English-speaking owners; convenient to train station. Cons: slightly corporate; street noise gets through in spite of double-glazed windows; a bit away from city center. | Rooms from: €119 | Pl. Bernard Tissot, Gare | 02–35–71–96–00 | www.hotel-dieppe.fr | 41 rooms | Some meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Hotel de Bougtheroulde.

HOTEL | One of Normandy’s most magnificent hôtels particuliers (family mansions) opened its doors in 2010 to become Rouen’s finest hotel. Long a landmark on the place de la Pucelle, this storybook vision of a Gothic urban palace—with soaring stone pinnacles and a tower made for a sleeping beauty—was initially built in 1506 for William the Red, leader of the powerful Le Roux family. From the cour d’Honneur (where guests can enjoy their sunset drinks), enter the front door to be fast-forwarded to the 21st century: the lobby is all slick monolithic stone with a vast glass atrium, and a regiment of black leather sofas. Upstairs, the guest rooms range from minimalistic Moderne and Tradition (with lovely touches of period woodwork) to the most expensive Prestige (in which the brickwork bathrooms are beauts). The property also has a gourmet restaurant, a modern bistro, and a terrace bar. Pros: gorgeously Gothic; attentive staff; steps from the center of historic Rouen. Cons: minimalism is not for everyone. | Rooms from: €260 | 15 pl. de la Pucelle, Vieux-Marché | 02–35–14–50–50 | www.hotelsparouen.com | 78 rooms | Some meals.

Mercure Centre.

HOTEL | In the jumble of streets near Rouen’s cathedral—a navigational challenge if you arrive by car—this modern chain hotel has small, comfortable guest rooms decorated in breezy pastels. It’s handy for exploring the old streets of the city center. Pros: functional; central; breakfast (included in the price) has a gluten-free option. Cons: interiors lack character; hard to find. | Rooms from: €125 | 7 rue de la Croix-de-Fer, St-Maclou | 02–35–52–69–52 | www.mercure.com | 125 rooms | Breakfast.

Vieux Carré.

HOTEL | In the heart of Old Rouen, this cute hotel has practical and comfortable rooms that, while recently refurbished, retain their taste for the exotic: picture lamps from Egypt, tables from Morocco, and 1940s English armoires. Ask for one of the rooms on the third floor for a view of the cathedral; No. 23 is the prettiest. Breakfast and lunch are served in the leafy courtyard, weather permitting, or in the cozy little bistro (closed Sunday) off the reception area. Pros: charming; central; exceptional prices. Cons: small rooms; parking 220 yards away. | Rooms from: €60 | 34 rue Ganterie, Gare | 02–35–71–67–70 | www.hotel-vieux-carre.com | 13 rooms | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Bar de la Crosse.

Visit the popular local haunt Bar de la Crosse for an aperitif and a good chat with some (friendly?) Rouennais. TIP You can take advantage of free Wi-Fi. | 53 rue de l’Hôpital, St-Maclou | 02–35–70–16–68.

Fête Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc Festival).

Parades, street plays, concerts, exhibitions, and a medieval market are just a few of the exciting events that mark the annual homage to Rouen’s fabled martyr; it takes place on the Sunday nearest to May 30. | 03–26–82–45–66.

Théâtre des Arts.

Operas, plays, and concerts are staged at the Théâtre des Arts. | 7 rue du Dr-Rambert, Vieux-Marché | 02–35–98–74–78 ticket office | www.operaderouen.com.

FÉCAMP

71 km (44 miles) northwest of Rouen, 17 km (11 miles) northeast of Étretat via D940.

Founded in the 10th century as a fishing port (the name is a Germanic form of “fish”), Fécamp still relies on the sea for its sustenance. After taking in the sights, be sure to sample the catch of the day in one of its harbor-side eateries; you can cap the meal with a dram of Bénédictine, the town’s own herbal liqueur.

Getting Here

Multiple trains per day arrive from Rouen (90 mins, €14.90); and Cars Perier’s No. 24 bus comes in from Le Havre via Étretat (90 mins, €2).

Visitor Information

Fécamp Tourist Office. | Quai Sadi Carnot | 02–35–28–51–01 | www.fecamptourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Abbaye de La Trinité.

The ancient cod-fishing port of Fécamp was once a major pilgrimage site, and this magnificent abbey church bears witness to its religious past. Founded by the Duke of Normandy in the 11th century, the Benedictine abbey became the home of the monastic order of the Précieux Sang de la Trinité (Precious Blood of the Trinity—referring to Christ’s blood, which supposedly arrived here in the seventh century in a reliquary from the Holy Land). | Pl. des Ducs Richard | Daily, except during services.

Palais de la Bénédictine (Benedictine Palace).

Fécamp is also the home of Benedictine liqueur. The Palais de la Bénédictine, across from the tourist office, is a florid building dating from 1892 that mixes neo-Gothic and Renaissance styles. Watery pastiche or taste-tingling architectural cocktail? Whether you’re shaken or stirred, this remains one of Normandy’s most popular attractions. The interior is just as exhausting as the facade. Paintings, sculptures, ivories, advertising posters, and fake bottles of Benedictine compete for attention with a display of the ingredients used for the liqueur, and a chance to sample it. There’s also a shop selling Benedictine products and souvenirs. | 110 rue Alexandre-le-Grand | 02–35–10–26–10 | www.benedictine.fr | €7.20, €10.20 with guide | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Sept.–Dec. and Feb.–June, daily 10–12:45 and 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

La Marée.

SEAFOOD | Overlooking Fécamp’s lively harbor, this popular seafood restaurant makes up in conviviality what it lacks in charm. Considering the number of copious seafood plateaux that breeze by, it seems no one pays much attention to style anyway. For sheer volume, the dishes will please even the most insatiable gourmand; factor in variety and freshness (most everything is caught locally) and you’ve got a winning combo. Gigantic langoustine, plump crabs, and the renowned Fécamp herring are standouts. Other good choices include the whole grilled sole and the salt cod poached in Normandy cream, a hearty local specialty. TIP The lunch formule (€17.50) is a good bargain. | Average main: €18 | 77 quai Bérigny | 02–35–29–39–15 | www.restaurant-maree-fecamp.fr | Closed Mon.; no dinner Sun. and Thurs.

Le Vicomté.

FRENCH | At this friendly and inexpensive Fécamp favorite market-fresh ingredients grace a daily-changing set menu (€19). On it, you might find grilled scallops or celeriac remoulade to start, and a rich dogfish stew or guinea fowl in cider sauce for mains, all followed by cheese, a choice of homemade desserts, and coffee. Popular with locals and visitors alike, the limited space brings guests well within elbow reach to share simple fare, dished up with aplomb and humour by “le patron.” | Average main: €19 | 4 rue du Président-René-Coty | 02–35–28–47–63 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Wed., 1st wk of May, last 2 wks of Aug., and Dec. 20–Jan. 4.

Auberge de la Rouge.

B&B/INN | The Enderlins welcome you to this little inn just south of Fécamp, where you can enjoy guest rooms overlooking a pretty garden and also savor local specialties in the fine on-site restaurant. Rooms are actually good-size lofts—quaint ladders lead you to balcony beds—that sleep four. The restaurant (closed Monday, no dinner Sunday) showcases modern classics by chef Paul Durel, such as roasted John Dory with home-cured lomo sausage in a subtle cauliflower, truffle-oil sauce, and Normand specialties like filet of beef with foie gras and red onion terrine. Top it off, if you can, with a local favorite, soufflé à la Bénédictine. lThere’s also a sophisticated kids’ menu. Pros: spacious rooms; family feel. Cons: away from town center; busy road outside. | Rooms from: €69 | 445 rte. du Havre, St-Léonard | 02–35–28–07–59 | www.auberge-rouge.com | 8 rooms | Closed over Christmas | Breakfast.

La Ferme de la Chapelle.

HOTEL | The charm of this former priory lies neither in the simple, comfortable guest rooms around the courtyard nor in the restaurant with its no-frills menu, but rather in its breathtaking location high atop the cliffs overlooking Fécamp. There’s a dramatic view over the entire coastline—explore it on an invigorating hike along the nearby coastal footpath. The split-level family room (€140) can accommodate up to five people. Pros: spectacular setting; good-value meals Cons: not central; often fully booked for conferences; decidedly rustic. | Rooms from: €95 | Côte de la Vierge | 02–35–10–12–12 | www.fermedelachapelle.fr | 17 rooms, 5 studios | Closed 1st 2 wks. of Jan., 2nd wk. of Nov. | Some meals.

ÉTRETAT

17 km (11 miles) southwest of Fécamp via D940, 88 km (55 miles) northwest of Rouen.

Midway along Normandy’s Alabaster Coast, Étretat might not at first seem worthy of a detour. However, its end-of-the-world location, its spectacular stone formations famously immortalized by the Impressionists, and the community itself—a Fisher-Price toy town lined with houses covered in picturesque 19th-century figural carvings—all add up to one of France’s most unforgettable destinations. No matter there are no museums there—Étretat itself could be an exhibit.

Getting Here

Your best bet is to take Cars Perier’s No. 24 bus from either Fécamp (30 mins) or Le Havre (60 mins).

Visitor Information

Étretat Tourist Office. | Pl. Maurice Guillard | 02–35–27–05–21 | www.etretat.net.

EXPLORING

Falaises d’Étretat.

This large village, with its promenade running the length of the pebble beach, is renowned for the magnificent tall rock formations that extend out into the sea. The Falaises d’Étretat are white cliffs that are as famous in France as Dover’s are in England—and have been painted by many artists, Claude Monet chief among them.

A stunning white-sand beach and white-chalk rocks, such as the “Manneporte”—a limestone portal likened by author Guy de Maupassant to an elephant dipping its trunk into water—are major elements in the composition. Here Monet became a pictorial rock-climber with the help of his famous “slotted box,” built with compartments for six different canvases, allowing him to switch midstream from painting to painting, as weather patterns momentarily changed. With storms and sun alternating hour by the hour, you’ll quickly understand why they say, “Just wait: in Normandy we have great weather several times a day!”—it was yet another reason why the Impressionists, intent on capturing the ephemeral, so loved this town.

At low tide it’s possible to walk through the huge archways formed by the rocks to neighboring beaches. The biggest arch is at the Falaise d’Aval, to the south, and for a breathtaking view of the whole bay be sure to climb the easy path up to the top. From here you can hike for miles across the Manneporte Hills, or play a round of golf on one of Europe’s windiest and most scenic courses, overlooking L’Aiguille (The Needle), a 300-foot spike of rock jutting out of the sea just offshore. To the north towers the Falaise d’Amont, topped by the gloriously picturesque chapel of Notre-Dame de la Garde.

TIP Plan on heading for the cliffs in early morning or early evening. The plunging chalk cliffs of Étretat are so gorgeous and strange that they seem surreal at first—the hordes of camera-toting visitors, however, can bring you back to reality quickly. | www.etretat.net.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Les Roches Blanches.

SEAFOOD | The exterior of this family-owned restaurant off the beach is a post–World War II concrete eyesore. But take a table by the window with a view of the cliffs, order the superb fresh seafood (try the tuna steak or sea bass roasted in Calvados), and you’ll be glad you came. Reservations are essential for Sunday lunch. | Average main: €12 | Rue de l’Abbé-Cochet | 02–35–27–07–34 | www.les-roches-blanches.com | Closed Jan.

Domaine Saint Clair Le Donjon.

HOTEL | From the look of this charming, ivy-covered, Anglo-Norman château—complete with storybook tower, private park, and lovely sea vistas—it is easy to understand why Monet, Proust, Offenbach, and other greats accepted invitations here; built overlooking Étretat by a rich Parisian couple in 1862, the Belle Époque house has guest rooms that are spacious, comfortable, quiet, and individually furnished, with the emphasis on “individual”—vast swaths of red fabric, decorator mirrors, and antique gramophones are some flamboyant accents, while other rooms are stylish enough for Maison Française. lFor a spectacular view, request the Sarah Bernhardt suite, the Impératrice Eugénie room, or the Liane de Pougy room. In the evening repair to the cozy, romantic restaurant overlooking the sea; after feasting on the views, you can savor Chef Olivier Foulon’s fine gastronomic cuisine, featuring “incredible edibles” from the hotel’s organic herb and vegetable gardens. Little wonder that rooms are reserved on a half-board basis on weekends. Pros: grand architecture; gorgeous setting; outdoor swimming pool; massage relaxation center. Cons: pricey; strident decoration in some rooms. | Rooms from: €200 | Chemin de St-Clair | 02–35–27–08–23 | www.hoteletretat.com | 21 rooms | Some meals.

Dormy House.

HOTEL | Ideally located halfway up the Étretat cliffs, this smart, modernish hotel is perched amid acres of manicured cliffside parkland. The guest rooms are simple and comfortable (refurbished in 2013, some have parquet flooring), but the real beauty is right outside your bedroom window, thanks to views of la mer so wonderful they would have Debussy humming in no time. The gastronomic restaurant specializes in fresh fish and seafood platters, ranging from simple delights such as the sole stew to the full-scale symphonie of fish. Request a table near the window to enjoy panoramic coastal vistas. Pros: grand views; fine restaurant; breakfast included. Cons: small rooms; those in annex lack character; you’ll pay a premium for one with sea view (they start €150). | Rooms from: €110 | Rte. du Havre | 02–35–27–07–88 | www.dormy-house.com | 60 rooms, 3 suites | Closed 1st 3 wks of Jan. | Breakfast.

La Résidence.

HOTEL | A picturesque 16th-century house in the heart of town, La Résidence is noted for its organic eatery and young, energetic staff; the cheapest rooms (€45) are pretty basic—both the bathroom and the shower are in the hallway—but the more expensive options are en suite and one even has a hot tub. The brasserie-type restaurant, La Salamandre, on the ground floor, serves regional specialties using products that are certified organic, farm-raised, and homemade, from the vegetable terrine to the nougat ice cream. In winter a fire crackles in the hearth. Pros: great value; close to beach; breakfast included. Cons: spartan facilities; can be noisy. | Rooms from: €75 | 4 bd. du Président René Coty | 02–35–27–02–87 | www.hotellaresidenceetretat.com | 15 rooms | Breakfast.

SPORTS

Golf d’Étretat.

Don’t miss the chance to play at Golf d’Étretat, where the stupendous 6,580-yard, par-72 course drapes across the cliff tops of the Falaise d’Aval. Green fees range from €44 to €72. | Rte. du Havre | 02–35–27–04–89 | www.golfetretat.com | Closed Tues. Check for weekend access in summer.

LE HAVRE

28 km (18 miles) southwest of Étretat via D940; 86 km (53 miles) west of Rouen; 200 km (125 miles) northwest of Paris.

Considering it was bombarded 146 times during World War II, you might think there’d be little left to see in Le Havre—France’s second-largest port (after Marseille). Think again. The rebuilt city, with its uncompromising recourse to reinforced concrete and open spaces, is admittedly short on old-school charm; on the flip side, it is home to some of France’s most spectacular 20th-century edifices. The rational planning and audacious architecture of Auguste Perret (1874–1954) have now earned the city UNESCO World Heritage status. His unforgettable Église St-Joseph—half rocket ship, half church—is alone worth the trip.

Getting Here

Direct trains from Paris’s Gare St-Lazare arrive here 13 times a day (2 hrs, €35). If you’re coming from the U.K, Brittany Ferries and LD Lines provide sea links between Portsmouth and Le Havre. Buses operated by Cars Perier connect it to Fécamp and other communities in Upper Normandy; while Bus Verts du Calvados routes go to Deauville, Honfleur, and Caen.

Visitor Information

Le Havre Tourist Office. | 186 bd. Clemenceau | 02–32–74–04–04 | www.lehavretourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Église St-Joseph.

Perhaps the most eye-popping piece of 20th-century architecture anywhere, and one of the most impressive modernist churches in France, is the Église St-Joseph, built to the plans of Auguste Perret in the 1950s. The 350-foot tower powers into the sky like a fat rocket. The interior is just as thrilling. No frills here: the 270-foot octagonal lantern soars above the crossing, filled almost to the top with abstract stained glass that hurls colored light over the bare concrete walls. Star Wars had nothing on this! | Bd. François-Ier | Daily 10–6, except during services.

Musée d’Art Moderne André-Malraux.

Occupying an innovative 1960s glass-and-metal building, the city’s art museum has soaring plate-glass window which bathe the interior in the famous sea light that drew scores of artists to Le Havre. Two local painters who gorgeously immortalized the Normandy coast are showcased here—Raoul Dufy (1877–1953), through a remarkable collection of his brightly colored oils, watercolors, and sketches; and Eugène Boudin (1824–98), a forerunner of Impressionism, whose compelling beach scenes and landscapes tellingly evoke the Normandy sea and skyline. | 2 bd. Clemenceau | 02–35–19–62–62 | www.muma-lehavre.fr | €5 | Wed.–Mon. 11–6, weekends 11–7.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

L’Orchidée.

SEAFOOD | With the port and fish market within netting distance, seafood is guaranteed to be fresh here. Decor-wise, L’Orchidée is a no-frills place—the visual appeal is on your plate: picture homemade fish terrine with smoked salmon and avocado sauce, or scallops with a leak and white truffle fricassee. Meat lovers should note that Chef Stéphane Lamotte’s excellent €24 set menu also features dishes such as duck breast with foie gras cream sauce. Mouthwatering desserts, like the rice-pudding with candied orange peel and Grand Marnier, will make you opt for the extra course. | Average main: €18 | 41 rue du Général-Faidherbe | 02–76–25–38–03 | www.restaurant-orchidee.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon.; no dinner Tues.; no lunch Sat.

Best Western ART Hotel.

HOTEL | Designed by the famed architect Auguste Perret, and located by the soothing waters of the Bassin de Commerce, this hotel’s light, airy rooms have contemporary furniture, and a few—like No. 63—have balconies and views of the port. Room service dining, in partnership with neighboring Italian, Japanese, and French restaurants, provides bistro-style dishes; and the bar, a sleek and soigné sanctum in teak woods and designer fabrics, is inviting. As at all hotels in Le Havre, the prices are high for the size of the rooms. Pros: modernist panache; functional; central. Cons: some street noise; few rooms have a balcony. | Rooms from: €79 | 147 rue Louis-Brindeau | 02–35–22–69–44 | www.art-hotel.fr | 31 rooms | No meals.

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Honfleur | Deauville-Trouville | Caen | Arromanches-les-Bains | Bayeux | The D-Day Beaches | St-Lô | Granville | Mont-St-Michel

Basse-Normandie begins to the west of the Seine Estuary, near the Belle Époque resort towns of Trouville and Deauville, extending out to the sandy Côte Fleurie (Flower Coast), stretching northwest from the D-Day landing sites past Omaha Beach and on to Utah Beach and the Cotentin Peninsula, which juts out into the English Channel. After the World War II D-Day landings, some of the fiercest fighting took place around Caen and Bayeux, as many monuments and memorials testify. Heading south, in the prosperous Pays d’Auge, dairy farms produce the region’s famous cheeses. Rising to the west is the fabled Mont-St-Michel. Inland, heading back toward central France, lush green meadows and apple orchards cover the countryside that is the heart of Calvados country.

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HONFLEUR

35 km (22 miles) southwest of Etretat via D940, A131, and D579, 80 km (50 miles) west of Rouen.

Getting Here

With departures every few hours, Bus Verts du Calvados can get you here from Deauville (30 mins, €2.40), Le Havre (30 mins, €4.65), or Caen (2 hrs, €8.20; 1 hr, €11.50 express). If you’re driving, keep in mind that parking can be a problem—your best bet is the lot just beyond the Vieux-Bassin (Old Harbor) on the left as you approach from the land side.

Visitor Information

Honfleur Tourist Office. | Quai Lepaulmier | 02–31–89–23–30 | en.ot-honfleur.fr.

Normandy on Canvas

Long before Claude Monet created his Giverny lily pond by diverting the Epte River that marks the boundary with the Ile-de-France, artists had been scudding into Normandy for two watery reasons: the Seine and the sea. Just downstream from Vernon, where the Epte joins the Seine, Richard the Lion-Heart’s ruined castle at Les Andelys was committed to canvas by Paul Signac and Félix Vallotton, while the soft-lighted, cliff-lined Seine Valley was impressionistically reproduced by Albert Lebourg and Gustave Loiseau. Their pieces grace the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Rouen—where Camille Corot once studied, and whose mighty cathedral Monet painted until he was pink, purple, and blue in the face.

The Seine joins the sea at Le Havre, where Monet grew up. His mentor Eugène Boudin would boat across the estuary from Honfleur, where he hobnobbed with Gustave Courbet, Charles Daubigny, and Alfred Sisley at the Ferme St-Siméon. Le Havre in the 1860s was the base from which Monet and his pals Frédéric Bazille and Johan Barthold Jongkind explored the rugged coast up to Dieppe, often opening their easels beneath the cliffs of Étretat.

The railroad from Gare St-Lazare (also smokily evoked by Monet) put Dieppe within easy reach of Paris. Eugène Delacroix daubed seascapes here in 1852. Auguste Renoir visited Dieppe from 1878 to 1885; Paul Gauguin and Edgar Degas clinked glasses here in 1885; Camille Pissarro painted his way from Gisors to Dieppe in the 1890s. As the nearest port to Paris, Dieppe wowed the English, too. Walter Sickert moved in from 1898 to 1905, and other artists from the Camden Town Group he founded back in London often painted in Dieppe before World War I.

EXPLORING

Ste-Catherine.

Soak up the seafaring atmosphere by strolling around the old harbor and paying a visit to the ravishing wooden church of Ste-Catherine, which dominates a tumbling square. The sanctuary and ramshackle belfry across the way—note the many touches of marine engineering in their architecture—were built by townspeople to show their gratitude for the departure of the English at the end of the Hundred Years’ War, in 1453. | Rue des Lingots | 02–31–89–11–83 | Daily 9–7.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Fleur de Sel.

MODERN FRENCH | A low-beamed 16th-century fisherman’s house provides the cozy setting for Chef Vincent’s Guyon’s locally influenced cuisine. Centered on the daily catch, the ambitious menu usually includes at least five different fish dishes—presented with artistic panache—along with plenty of grilled meats, like salt-marsh lamb or duck. For starters, a red tuna carpaccio with melon and chive marinade could be followed by a loin of lamb with cumin-flavored vegetables. Three fixed-price menus (€28–€58) assure a splendid meal on any budget. TIP Be sure to save room for one of the masterful desserts or an informed cheese course. | Average main: €21 | 17 rue Haute | 02–31–89–01–92 | www.lafleurdesel-honfleur.com | Reservations essential | Closed Tues., Wed., and Jan.

Fodor’s Choice | SaQuaNa.

MODERN FRENCH | Chef Alexandre Bourdas earned his second Michelin star in 2010, after putting Honfleur on the gastronomic map with his first in 2008. From the small but ravishing dining room to the impeccable presentation, his restaurant is a study in getting it right down to the smallest detail. Surprising combinations—like sea bream with nori and marinated sanshō, or cabbage tempura with a truffle crust—attest to Bourdas’s far-flung influences: including his native Midi-Pyrenees, Japan (where he cooked for three years), and the local bounty he seeks out daily from farmers and fishermen. Having also worked as a pastry chef, Bourdas creates his own desserts, among them a delicate mousseline brioche laced with rose ice-cream and whipped cream with red wine liqueur. TIP In addition to a pair of sublime tasting menus (€75 and €115), there’s a “surprise menu” for kids (€25). Bien sûr, reserve well in advance. | Average main: €78 | 22 pl. Hamelin | 02–31–89–40–80 | www.alexandre-bourdas.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon.–Wed.

Ferme St-Siméon.

HOTEL | The story goes that this 19th-century manor house was the birthplace of Impressionism, and that its park inspired Monet and Sisley—neither of whom would have dismissed the welcoming rich mix of elegance and down-home Norman delights inside, where rich fabrics, grand paintings, and Louis Seize chairs are married with rustic antiques, ancient beams, and half-timbered walls; the result casts a deliciously cozy spell. Guest rooms are opulent, with pastel colors, floral wallpaper, antiques, period accents, and all the modern conveniences. Those in the thatch-roof converted stables are quieter but have less character. Be aware, however, that the high prices have more to do with the hotel’s reputation than with the amenities it offers (although spa treatments are among them). Under Chef Mickael Lelievre, the sophisticated restaurant selects the noblest regional products from land and sea; the cheese board does justice to the region, as does the gastronomic menu. Pros: famed historic charm. Cons: expensive; bland annex rooms. | Rooms from: €310 | Rue Adolphe-Marais, on D513 to Trouville | 02–31–81–78–00 | www.fermesaintsimeon.fr | 32 rooms, 3 suites | Some meals.

L’Absinthe.

HOTEL | A 16th-century presbytery with stone walls and beamed ceilings houses a charming little hotel and the acclaimed restaurant of the same name. Guest rooms are comfortable and stylish but small, except for the attic suite, which has a private living room; four rooms and one suite have harbor views. The elegant and cozy reception area is adorned with an imposing stone fireplace. The restaurant is famous for seasonal seafood dishes, such as turbot grilled with leeks. On sunny days request a table on the terrace. Pros: enchanting building; superb restaurant. Cons: small rooms; gawky blend of old and modern furnishings. | Rooms from: €130 | 1 rue de Ville | 02–31–89–23–23 | www.absinthe.fr | 9 rooms, 2 suites | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Dec. | Some meals.

Fodor’s Choice | La Petite Folie.

B&B/INN | Charming simply doesn’t suffice to describe this beautifully renovated 1830s town house, a stone’s throw from Honfleur’s old port. Lavished with antiques, no luxury has been spared in appointing its rooms; design credits here read like an A-list of Paris notables, including fabrics by Pierre Frey and Porthault linens. Despite the lovely period details, lodgings feel perfectly à la mode, and the sleek, modern bathrooms are equipped with glassed-in showers—except for the roomy La Directoire, which sports a capacious claw-foot tub. For those seeking a bit more space or privacy, the half-timber 14th-century sea captain’s house next door has three apartments, each more lovely than the next; the giant windows in the all-white top-floor suite offer a view to the water and give the feel of an artist’s loft. Add to all this a delightful garden and “folie” terrace out back, and the magic’s complete. Pros: gracious welcome; a good value, with generous breakfast included and secure parking optional. Cons: no-children-under-10 policy; no lift. | Rooms from: €160 | 44 rue Haute | 06–74–39–46–46 | www.lapetitefolie-honfleur.com | 5 rooms, 5 apartments | 1st wk Jan. and Feb. | Breakfast.

Le Manoir des Impressionnistes.

HOTEL | Set atop a small wooded hill 200 yards from the sea, this gorgeous half-timber, dormer-roof manor has a pretty green-and-white facade in the Anglo-Norman style, plus accommodations that promise sweeping views. Guest rooms are traditionally and tastefully furnished, and all have attractive modern marble bathrooms; the first-floor room has a four-poster bed and its own balcony. The atmospheric restaurant (open for dinner throughout the week and also for lunch on weekends) presents a seasonal range of gastronomic dishes, with set menus priced at €49, €69, and €89. Pros: exquisitely decorated and furnished; sea views; stylish bathrooms. Cons: away from town center; no elevator. | Rooms from: €190 | Phare du Butin, Rte. de Trouville | 02–31–81–63–00 | www.manoirdesimpressionnistes.eu | 10 rooms | Some meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Fête des Marins (Marine Festival).

The two-day Fête des Marins is held on Pentecost Sunday and Monday (50 days after Easter). On the first day all the boats in the harbor are decked out in flags and paper roses, and a priest bestows his blessing at high tide. The next day, model boats and local children head a musical procession to the small chapel of Notre Dame de Grâce. | St. Catherine.

Fête du Jazz (Jazz Festival).

There’s a five-day Fête du Jazz in August, held in the streets and venues throughout the town center. | 06–08–81–68–76 | www.jazzauxgreniers.com.

DEAUVILLE-TROUVILLE

16 km (10 miles) southwest of Honfleur via D513, 92 km (57 miles) west of Rouen.

Deauville and Divided only by the River Touques, the twin beach towns of Deauville and Trouville are distinctly different in character. The latter, arguably France’s oldest seaside resort, was discovered by artists and the upper crust in the days of Louis-Philippe; by the mid-1800s, it was the beach à la mode and painters like Eugène Boudin captured its beauty. Then the Duc de Mornay (half-brother of Napoléon III) and other aristocrats on the hunt for something more exclusive began building their villas along the deserted beach across the river. Thus was launched Deauville, a vigorous grande dame who started kicking up her heels in the Second Empire, kept swinging through the Belle Époque, and is still frequented by Rothschilds, princes, and movie stars. Few of them ever actually get in the water, though, because other attractions (including a gilt-edge casino and a fabled racecourse—to say nothing of the extravagant shops along the rue Eugène-Colas) prove so distracting. But perhaps Deauville is known best for its Promenade des Planches—a boardwalk extending along the seafront that’s lined with deck chairs, bars, striped cabanas, elegant hotels, plus an array of lovely half-timber Norman villas and block after block of prewar apartment houses.

Over-building has diminished the charm of both towns, yet the two maintain their popularity. Deauville is sometimes jokingly referred to as Paris’s 21st arrondissement; while Trouville is a more of a family resort, harboring few pretensions. Moreover, shuttling between them is still easy by means of a five-minute drive or boat crossing.

Getting Here

Trains to Deauville-Trouville (the station between the two towns) from Paris’s Gare St-Lazare often require a change at Lisieux (2 hrs, €33). Bus Verts du Calvados runs multiple buses per day to Deauville from Le Havre (1 hr, €7.05); Honfleur (30 mins, €2.40); and Caen (75 mins, €5.80).

Visitor Information

Deauville-Trouville Tourist Office. | 112 rue Victor Hugo | 02–31–14–40–00 | www.deauville.org.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

L’Essentiel.

FRENCH | A nice change from the grand, overly formal hotel dining rooms that dominate Deauville, the relaxed atmosphere and sensational, seasonal cuisine at this contemporary eatery have made it extremely popular. Chef Charles Thuillant, whose pedigree includes stints at two top Paris restaurants, focuses on lighter Asian-inspired dishes with European influences. The menu—which might include foie gras in duck broth with Thai herbs or Wagyu beef with grilled vegetables—brings his talents to the forefront. A capacious terrace, a selection of excellent wines by the glass, and a bargain weekday lunch menu (€19) make L’Essentiel an ideal place to linger. | Average main: €26 | 29 rue Mirabeau | Deauville | 02–31–87–22–11 | www.lessentieldeauville.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues.

81 L’Hôtel.

HOTEL | While this boutique hotel pours on the gloss, the nicer original features of the 1906 mansion—parquet floors, stained-glass windows, impossibly high ceilings—remain to complement the added postmodern touches (think faux crocodile chairs, silver furniture, shrouded chandeliers, and ersatz-Baroque beds); the top-floor “Hippodrome” suite offers a nice view of the famous racetrack, and others have terraces. Eight stylish, spacious studios next door let you feel like you’ve snagged your very own designer apartment. Note: Although the hotel is on a main road, it’s set far enough back so that guest rooms are quiet. Pros: rooms outfitted with a/c, free Wi-Fi, and flat-screen TVs; easy parking. Cons: no restaurant; a walk to the beach. | Rooms from: €160 | 81 av. de la République | Deauville | 02–31–14–01–50 | www.81lhotel.com | 21 rooms, 8 studios | Closed 1st 3 wks of Jan. | Breakfast.

Continental.

HOTEL | Vintage daguerreotypes prove that this is one of Deauville’s oldest establishments. Opened in 1866, its once-picturesque building—shoehorned into a triangle plot and topped with an elegant mansard roof—was painted by Eugène Boudin himself; the famed Impressionist wouldn’t appreciate the modern signs that now blemish the exterior, but renovations have created an inviting interior. Flowering plants, comfy chairs, and snug but tranquil guest rooms make this a good bet, especially because it’s close to the train station yet within easy walking distance of the town center. In pricey Deauville, the Continental is a find. Pros: cheap; convenient to train station. Cons: not close to the beach; lacks character. | Rooms from: €119 | 1 rue Désiré-Le-Hoc | Deauville | 02–31–88–21–06 | www.hotel-continental-deauville.com | 42 rooms | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Normandy-Barrière.

HOTEL | This hotel—its facade a riot of pastel-green timbering, checkerboard walls, and Anglo-Norman balconies—has been a town landmark since it opened in 1912, and crowds still pack the place. Thanks to a makeover by Jacques Garcia (France’s most aristo decorator), its grand salons now overflow with needlepoint sofas, fin-de-siècle chandeliers, and 19th-century armchairs; the courtyard is its outdoor counterpart, with a grassy patio surrounded by a spectacular panoply of turrets and balconies. Only some guest rooms have air-conditioning: be sure to request one when booking, or ask for a room with a sea view and breeze. A regional menu is served in La Belle Époque, the snazzy restaurant set in a grand hall which, on a bright night, after a couple of bottles of Dom Pérignon, glitters like the salons of Versailles. Pros: grand interiors; luxurious amenities; Deauville’s place to be seen. Cons: some elements of kitschy bombast; patronizing service; can be steamy in summer. | Rooms from: €385 | 38 rue Jean-Mermoz | Deauville | 02–31–98–66–22, 800/223–5652 for U.S. reservations | www.lucienbarriere.com | 259 rooms, 31 suites | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

American Film Festival.

One of the biggest cultural events on the Norman calendar is the 10-day American Film Festival, held in Deauville in early September. | Centre International de Deauville,1 ave. Lucien Barrière | Deauville | 02–31–14–14–14 | www.festival-deauville.com.

Casino de Deauville.

Formal attire is required at the Casino de Deauville. | 2 rue Edmond-Blanc | 02–31–98–66–00.

Casino de Trouville.

Trouville’s Casino de Trouville is slightly less highbrow than Deauville’s. | Pl. du Maréchal-Foch | Trouville | 02–31–87–75–00.

Le Chic.

Open nightly from 11 pm to 5 am, Le Chic is the place to dance according to some natives. | 14 rue Désiré Le Hoc | Deauville | 02–31–88–30–91 | www.lechicdeauville.fr.

Le Seven.

Night owls enjoy Le Seven; it’s open until 6 am. | 13 rue Albert-Fracasse | Deauville | 02–31–88–40–50 | www.seven-deauville.com.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Club Nautique de Trouville.

Sailing boats large and small can be rented from the Club Nautique de Trouville. | Digue des Roches Noires | 02–31–88–13–59 | www.cnth.org.

Hippodrome de Deauville Clairefontaine.

Horse races and polo matches can be seen most summer afternoons at the Hippodrome de Deauville Clairefontaine. | Rte. de Clairefontaine, Tourgéville | Deauville | 02–31–14–69–00 | www.hippodrome-deauville-clairefontaine.com.

Hippodrome de Deauville—La Touques.

Deauville becomes Europe’s horse capital in August, when breeders jet in from around the world for its yearling auctions and the races at its two attractive hippodromes. Afternoon horse races are held in the heart of Deauville at the Hippodrome de Deauville—La Touques. It hosts the Gold Cup Polo Championship (the final is held on the last Sunday of August), and the summer season closes with the course’s signature event, the Grand Prix de Deauville. | 45 ave. Hocquart de Turtot | Deauville | 02–31–14–20–00 | www.france-galop.com.

Poney Club.

Head for the Poney Club for a wonderful horseback ride on the beach (the sunsets can be spectacular). It’s open weekends and holidays, but be sure to call early to reserve a horse, or a pony, for your little one. | Rue Reynoldo-Hahn | 02–31–98–56–24 | poney-club-deauville.ffe.com.

CAEN

54 km (35 miles) southwest of Deauville-Trouville; 28 km (17 miles) southeast of Bayeux; 120 km (75 miles) west of Rouen.

Basically a modern commercial and administrative center with a vibrant student scene, Caen—the capital of Lower Normandy—is very different from the coastal resorts. Atmospheric castles and abbeys remain from the 11th-century glory days when William of Normandy ruled here before heading across the Channel to conquer England. During the two-month Battle of Caen in 1944, however, a fire raged for 11 days, devastating much of the town. The Caen Mémorial, an impressive museum devoted to World War II, is considered a must-see by travelers interested in 20th-century history; and many avail themselves of the excellent bus tours the museum sponsors to the nearby D-Day beaches.

Getting Here

Frequent daily trains arrive from Paris’s Gare St-Lazare (2 hrs, €35.80); some continue to on Bayeux (2 hrs, €39.50). Daily trains also link Caen to Rouen (90 mins, €26.80) and St-Lô (45 mins, €13.70). Bus Verts du Calvados connects the city with Deauville (75 mins, €5.80), Le Havre (2 hrs, 30 mins; €11.55 or 90 mins, €16.50 express), and Honfleur (2 hrs, €8.20 or 1 hr, €11.50 express).

Visitor Information

Caen Tourist Office. | Pl. St. Pierre | 02–31–27–14–14 | www.tourisme.caen.fr.

EXPLORING

Abbaye aux Dames (Ladies’ Abbey).

Founded in 1059 by William the Conqueror’s wife, Matilda, the Abbaye aux Dames was rebuilt in the 18th century; it then served as a hospital and nursing home before being fully restored in the 1980s by the Regional Council, which promptly requisitioned it for office space. The abbey’s elegant arcaded courtyard and ground-floor reception rooms can, however, still be admired during free guided tours. You can also visit the squat Église de la Trinité (Trinity Church), a fine example of 11th-century Romanesque architecture, though its original spires were replaced by timid balustrades in the early 18th century. Note the intricate carvings on columns and arches in the chapel; the 11th-century crypt; and, in the choir, the marble slab commemorating Queen Matilda, who was buried here in 1083. | Pl. de la Reine-Mathilde | 02–31–06–98–45 | Free | Tours daily at 2:30 and 4.

Fodor’s Choice | Abbaye aux Hommes (Men’s Abbey).

Caen’s finest church, of cathedral proportions, is part of the Abbaye aux Hommes, built by William the Conqueror from local Caen stone (also used for England’s Canterbury Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, and the Tower of London). The abbey was begun in Romanesque style in 1066 and expanded in the 18th century; its elegant buildings are now part of City Hall, and some rooms are brightened by the city’s fine collection of paintings. Note the magnificent yet spare facade of the abbey church of St-Étienne, enhanced by two 11th-century towers topped by octagonal spires. Inside, what had been William the Conqueror’s tomb was destroyed by 16th-century Huguenots during the Wars of Religion. However, the choir still stands; it was the first to be built in Norman Gothic style, and many subsequent choirs were modeled after it. To get the full historical scoop, sign up for one of the special tours: English-language ones are offered in July and August at 11, 1:30, and 4. | Pl. Louis-Guillouard | 02–31–30–42–81 | Tours €4.50–€7 | Daily 9–6.

Château Ducal.

Looming on a mound ahead of the church is the château—the ruins of William the Conqueror’s fortress, built in 1060 and sensitively restored after the war. The castle gardens are a perfect spot for strolling, and the ramparts afford good views of the city. The citadel also contains two museums—the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Musée de Normandie—and the medieval church of St-Georges, used for exhibitions. | www.chateau.caen.fr.

Hôtel d’Escoville.

A good place to begin exploring Caen is the Hôtel d’Escoville, a stately mansion in the city center built by wealthy merchant Nicolas Le Valois d’Escoville in the 1530s. The building was badly damaged during the war but has since been restored; the austere facade conceals an elaborate inner courtyard, reflecting the Italian influence on early Renaissance Norman architecture. The on-site city tourist office is an excellent resource. | Pl. St-Pierre | 02–31–27–14–14 tourist office | www.tourisme.caen.fr.

Mémorial.

An imaginative museum erected in 1988 on the north side of the city, the Mémorial is a must-see if you’re interested in World War II history. The stark, flat facade, with a narrow doorway symbolizing the Allies’ breach in the Nazi’s supposedly impregnable Atlantic Wall, opens onto an immense foyer with British Typhoon aircraft suspended overhead. The museum itself is down a spiral ramp, lined with photos and documents charting the Nazi’s rise to power in the 1930s. The idea—hardly subtle but visually effective—is to suggest a descent into the hell of war. The extensive displays range from wartime plastic jewelry to scale models of battleships, with scholarly sections on how the Nazis tracked down radios used by the French Resistance and on the development of the atomic bomb. A room commemorating the Holocaust, with flickering candles and twinkling overhead lights, sounds a jarring note. The D-Day landings are evoked by a tabletop Allies map of the theater of war and by a spectacular split-screen presentation of the D-Day invasion from both the Allied and Nazi standpoints. Softening the effect of the modern structure are tranquil gardens, including a British one inaugurated by Prince Charles. Fittingly, the museum is located 10 minutes away from the Pegasus Bridge and 15 minutes from the D-Day beaches. | Esplanade Dwight-D.-Eisenhower | 02–31–06–06–45 | www.memorial-caen.fr | €19 | Mid-Feb.–Oct., daily 9–7; Nov., Dec., and late Jan.–mid-Feb., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–6.

Musée de Normandie (Normandy Museum).

Set in the mansion built for the castle governor, this museum is dedicated to regional arts such as ceramics and sculpture. Some local archaeological finds are also on display. | Château Ducal, Entrance by château gateway | 02–31–30–47–60 | musee-de-normandie.caen.fr | €3.20; €5.30 for 48-hr pass to both Beaux-Arts and Normandy | June–Sept., daily 9:30–6; Nov.–May, Wed.–Mon. 9:30–6.

Musée des Beaux-Arts.

Within the castle’s walls, the Musée des Beaux-Arts is a heavyweight among France’s provincial fine arts museums. Its Old Masters collection includes works by Poussin, Perugino, Rembrandt, Titian, Tintoretto, and Veronese; there’s also a wide range of 20th-century art on view. | Château Ducal, entrance by château gateway | 02–31–30–47–70 | www.mba.caen.fr | €3.10; €5.30 for 48-hr pass to both Beaux-Arts and Normandy | Wed.–Mon. 9:30–6.

St-Pierre.

Across the square, beneath a 240-foot spire, the late-Gothic church of St-Pierre is a riot of ornamental stonework. It’s open for visits despite extensive, ongoing restoration work. | Pl. St. Pierre.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le P’tit B.

FRENCH | On one of Caen’s oldest streets near the castle, this half-timber 17th-century dining room—complete with stone walls, beam ceilings, and a large fireplace—showcases the regional cuisine of David Schiebold. The three-course prix-fixe menu (€18) is a great value: options might include grilled duck, cannelloni with goat cheese, or king-prawn risotto, and, to finish, red berries in flaky pastry with coconut milk. | Average main: €18 | 15 rue de Vaugueux | 02–31–93–50–76 | www.leptitb.fr | Reservations essential.

Le Verre à Soi.

WINE BAR | Smack in the city center, overlooking the river, this convivial cave à manger has everything necessary for a satisfying, affordable dining experience. Opt for small plates of artisanal charcuterie and cheese, or go for a satisfying main course—like chicken breast served with cream and chorizo sauce or marinated sardines, a local specialty. The prix-fixe menus are a bargain (€13–€16 at lunch; €19 at dinner Friday and Saturday only); and you can choose from an impressive selection of wines by the bottle or glass. Friendly service and a lively clientele are an added bonus. | Average main: €17 | 23 Quai Eugene Meslin | 02–31–83–08–77 | www.le-verreasoi.fr | Reservations not accepted | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Best Western Le Dauphin.

HOTEL | Despite being in the heart of the city, this hotel, in a restored 12th-century priory, is surprisingly quiet; some of the smallish guest rooms have exposed beams, those overlooking the street are soundproof, and the ones in back look out on the courtyard. Service is friendly and efficient. Pros: quiet, historic building; spa and fitness center. Cons: small rooms; excellent but pricey restaurant. | Rooms from: €150 | 29 rue Gémare | 02–31–86–22–26 | www.le-dauphin-normandie.com | 32 rooms, 5 suites | Some meals.

Hotel Ivan Vautier.

HOTEL | A bastion of modern luxury, this quiet hotel is Caen’s go-to spot for stylish lodging and dining: handsome, spacious rooms are decorated in jewel and earth tones and feature sleek, sparkling bathrooms; splendid food options include an elegant, Michelin-starred gastronomic restaurant. Be sure to check for special offers, which cover exceptional dining, private tours of D-Day beaches, and special rates for local golf courses. Pros: well maintained; on-site spa; hearty complimentary breakfast. Cons: not cheap; not central. | Rooms from: €165 | 3 av. Henry Chéron | 02–31–73–32–71 | www.ivanvautier.com | 15 rooms, 4 suites | All meals.

SHOPPING

Open Air Markets (Farmers’ market).

Farmers’ markets (which often include clothing and household goods) run every day except Monday, but the largest are held Friday morning on place St-Saveur and Sunday morning on place Courtonne. In May, collectors and dealers flock to Caen’s bric-a-brac and antiques fair at the Parc des Expositions. | 02–31–27–14–14.

THE OUTDOORS

Boëdic.

Take a barge trip along the canal that leads from Caen to the sea on the Boëdic. The boat runs every day except Saturday in July and August; and every day except Monday in the shoulder seasons (mid-April through June and September through mid-October). All departures are at 3 pm, and tickets are sold onboard. Arromanches/Omaha Beach sorties are also available in July and August. | Bassin Saint Pierre, Quai Vendeuvre | 02–31–43–86–12 | www.lesvedettesdenormandie.fr | €18 round-trip, €16 one-way.

EN ROUTE: Pegasus Bridge.

Early on June 6, 1944, the British 6th Airborne Division landed by glider and captured Pegasus Bridge (named for the division’s emblem, showing Bellerophon astride his winged horse). This proved to be the first step toward liberating France from Nazi occupation, and the structure itself became a symbol of the Allied invasion. To see it, take D514 north from Caen for 13 km (8 miles) and turn right at Bénouville. The original bridge—erected in 1935—has been replaced by a similar, slightly wider one; but the older span can be seen at the adjacent Mémorial Pegasus visitor center. Café Gondrée by the bridge—the first building recaptured on French soil—is still standing and still serving; it also houses a small museum. A 40-minute son-et-lumière show lights up the bridge and café at nightfall between June and September. | Ave. du Major Howard | Ranville | 02–31–78–19–44 Mémorial Pegasus, 02-31-44-62-25 Café Gondrée | Mémorial Pegasus www.memorial-pegasus.org; Café Gondrée www.pegasus-bridge-cafe-gondree.com | Mémorial Pegasus €7 | Mémorial Pegasus closed last 2 wks of Dec., Jan.

ARROMANCHES-LES-BAINS

31 km (19 miles) northwest of Caen, 10 km (6 miles) northeast of Bayeux.

Now a tourist-friendly beach town, Arromanches played a pivotal role during the D-Day invasion. Vestiges of the great artificial ports called “mulberries” remain and local attractions—including a landing-themed museum and a 360-degree movie theater—conjure up those desperate June days in 1944.

Getting Here

Bus Verts du Calvados’s No. 74 route links Arromanches-le-Bains to Bayeux (30 mins, €2.40).

Visitor Information

Arromanches Tourist Office | 2 rue Maréchal Joffre | 02–31–22–36–45 | www.ot-arromanches.fr | Closed Jan.

EXPLORING

Arromanches 360.

This striking movie theater has a circular screen—actually nine curved screens synchronized to show an 18-minute film titled Le Prix de la Liberté (The Price of Freedom), which tells the story of the D-Day landings through a mix of archival and more recent footage from major sites and cemeteries. Evocative music and sound effects serve as dramatic substitutes for spoken commentary. The film is screened at 10 past and 40 past the hour. | Chemin du Calvaire | 02–31–06–06–44 | www.arromanches360.com | €5 | May–Sept., 9:30–7; Oct.–Dec. and Feb.–Apr., Tues.–Sun. 10–5:30.

Musée du Débarquement.

Little remains to mark the furious fighting waged hereabouts after D-Day. In the bay off Arromanches, however, some elements of the floating harbor are still visible. As you contemplate the seemingly insignificant hunks of concrete that form a broken offshore semicircle, try to imagine the extraordinary technical feat involved in towing them across the Channel from England. General Eisenhower said that victory would have been impossible without this prefabricated harbor, which was nicknamed “Winston.” The Musée du Débarquement, on the seafront, has models, mock-ups, and photographs depicting the creation of this technical marvel. | Pl. du 6-Juin | 02–31–22–34–31 | www.musee-arromanches.fr | €7.90 | May–Aug., daily 9–7; Sept., daily 9–6; Apr., daily 9–12:30 and 1:30–6; Oct. and Mar., daily 9:30–12:30 and 1:30–5:30; Nov., Dec., and Feb., daily 10–12:30 and 1:30–5.

WHERE TO STAY

Le Mulberry.

HOTEL | This little hotel, one block back from the seafront, is cheerfully run Sophie and Christian Le Blanc. The location is right at the center of things, midway between the D-Day museum and the Arromanches 360 movie theater. Guest rooms are sparsely decorated and—with the exception of No. 4 and No. 5—quite small, but they’re impeccably clean and a good value overall; the restaurant (no dinner Wednesday) serves up Sophie’s locally sourced seasonal dishes with a set menu that changes daily (€20). Pros: warm welcome; breakfast included; tasty home cooking and natural wines. Cons: small, basic rooms. | Rooms from: €103 | 6 rue Maurice-Lithare | 02–31–22–36–05 | www.lemulberry.fr | 9 rooms | Closed Jan.–mid-Feb. | Breakfast.

BAYEUX

28 km (17 miles) northwest of Caen.

Bayeux, the first town to be liberated during the Battle of Normandy, makes a fine starting point for excursions to nearby World War II sites. Despite being close to scenes of such destruction, Bayeux itself was never bombed by either side (without factories or military bases, it served no strategic purpose); hence, its Norman Gothic cathedral and beautiful Old Town emerged intact. The highlight here for most visitors is the world’s most celebrated piece of needlework: the Bayeux Tapestry, which vividly conjures up life circa 1066. For a different take on the past, plan to come for the boisterous Fêtes Médiévales, a market-cum-carnival held in the streets around the cathedral on the first weekend of July. A more conventional market is held every Saturday morning.

Getting Here

Bus Verts du Calvados routes, originating at Caen’s train station, run to Bayeux and other towns.

Visitor Information

Bayeux Tourist Office. | Pont Saint-Jean | 02–31–51–28–28 | bayeux-bessin-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Bayeux Tapestry.

Essentially a 225-foot-long embroidered scroll stitched in 1067, the Bayeux Tapestry, known in French as the Tapisserie de la Reine Mathilde (Queen Matilda’s Tapestry), depicts, in 58 comic strip–type scenes, the epic story of William of Normandy’s conquest of England, narrating Will’s trials and victory over his cousin Harold, culminating in the Battle of Hastings on October 14, 1066. The tapestry was probably commissioned from Saxon embroiderers by the count of Kent—who was also the bishop of Bayeux—to be displayed in his newly built Cathédrale Notre-Dame. Despite its age, the tapestry is in remarkably good condition; the extremely detailed, often homey scenes provide an unequaled record of the clothes, weapons, ships, and lifestyles of the day. It’s showcased in the Musée de la Tapisserie (Tapestry Museum; free audioguides let you listen to an English commentary about the tapestry). | Centre Guillaume-le-Conquérant,13 bis rue de Nesmond | 02–31–51–25–50 | www.tapisserie-bayeux.fr | €9 | Mid-Mar.–mid-Nov., daily 9–6 (until 7 in summer); mid-Nov.–Dec. and Feb.–mid-Mar., daily 9:30–12:30 and 2–6.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame.

Bayeux’s mightiest edifice, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame, is a harmonious mixture of Norman and Gothic architecture. Note the portal on the south side of the transept that depicts the assassination of English archbishop Thomas à Becket in Canterbury Cathedral in 1170, following his courageous opposition to King Henry II’s attempts to control the church. On weekdays in July and August, guided tours are offered between 10 and 2. | Rue du Bienvenu | 02–31–92–01–85 | cathedraledebayeux.voila.net | Tour €4 | Daily 8:30–7.

Conservatoire de la Dentelle.

Handmade lace is a specialty of Bayeux. The best place to learn about it—and buy some to take home—is the Conservatoire de la Dentelle near the cathedral. | 6 rue du Bienvenu | 02–31–92–73–80 | dentelledebayeux.free.fr | Free | Mid-Feb.–Dec., Mon.–Sat. 9:30–12:30 and 2:30–6.

Musée Baron-Gérard.

Housed in the Bishop’s Palace beneath the cathedral, the Musée Baron-Gérard (also known as the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Baron Gérard or MAHB) was completely renovated in 2013. It displays a fine collection of Bayeux porcelain and lace, plus ceramics from Rouen, vintage pharmaceutical jars, 16th- to 19th-century furniture, and paintings by local artists. Note the magnificent plane tree out front—dubbed the Tree of Liberty, it was planted in 1797. | 1 pl. de la Liberté | 02–31–92–14–21 | www.bessin-normandie.com | €7 | May–Sept., daily 9:30–6:30; Oct.–Dec. and mid-Feb.–Apr., daily 10–12:30 and 2–6.

Musée de la Bataille de Normandie (Battle of Normandy Museum).

Exhibits at the Musée de la Bataille de Normandie trace the story of the struggle from June 6 to August 22, 1944. Located near the moving British War Cemetery, it contains some impressive war paraphernalia. | Bd. du Général-Fabian-Ware | 02–31–51–46–90 | www.normandiememoire.info | €6 | May–Sept., daily 9:30–6:30; Oct.–Dec., Mar., and Apr., daily 10–12:30 and 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT

Château d’Audrieu.

HOTEL | Princely opulence, overstuffed chairs, wall sconces, antiques—this family-owned château with an elegant 18th-century facade and grand restaurant fulfills the Hollywood notion of a palatial property; guest rooms 50 and 51 have peaked ceilings with exposed-wood beams, and the enchanting restaurant (closed Monday; no lunch weekdays) boasts white wainscoting, crystal chandeliers, and gilt accents. Chef Olivier Barbarin explores an exotic repertoire of dishes, like scallops with chestnuts and cranberry juice, which are complemented by the extensive wine list. Pros: grandiose building; magnificent gardens. Cons: out of the way; bland interiors in some rooms. | Rooms from: €220 | Off D82, 13 km (8 miles) southeast of Bayeux | Audrieu | 02–31–80–21–52 | www.chateaudaudrieu.com | 25 rooms, 4 suites | Closed Dec. and Jan. | Some meals.

Grand Hôtel du Luxembourg.

HOTEL | Don’t be misled by the name—the small guest rooms here are more bland than grand, but they do have updated comforts and all but two face a courtyard garden; the on-site restaurant, one of the best in town, is another perk. Les Quatre Saisons serves seasonal fare in a bright red salon. Depending on the time of year, choose the honey-roast ham with melted apples or the braised turbot with sage. Pros: quiet; central; fine restaurant. Cons: unprepossessing lobby; some rooms are on the dark side. | Rooms from: €100 | 25 rue des Bouchers | 02–31–92–00–04 | www.hotel-luxembourg-bayeux.com | 25 rooms, 3 suites | Closed mid-Jan.–Feb. | Some meals.

THE D-DAY BEACHES

History focused its sights along the coasts of Normandy at 6:30 am on June 6, 1944, as the 135,000 men and 20,000 vehicles of the Allied forces made land in their first incursion in Europe in World War II. The entire operation on this “Longest Day” was called Operation Overlord—the code name for the invasion of Normandy. Five beachheads (dubbed Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, and Sword) were established along the coast to either side of Arromanches. Preparations started in mid-1943, and British shipyards worked furiously through the following winter and spring building two artificial harbors (called “mulberries”), boats, and landing equipment. The British and Canadian troops that landed on Sword, Juno, and Gold on June 6, 1944, quickly pushed inland and joined with parachute regiments previously dropped behind German lines, before encountering fierce resistance at Caen, which did not fall until July 9.

Getting Here

Mémorial Tours.

Guided, English-language excursions to the D-Day landing beaches are organized by Mémorial. You can opt to travel by tour bus (€39) or, for a more personalized experience, by minivan (€115). | Esplanade General Eisenhower | Caen | 02–31–06–06–44 | www.memorial-caen.fr.

Normandy Sightseeing Tours.

Normandy Sightseeing Tours runs a number of trips to the D-Day beaches; a full-day excursion (8:30–6) costs €90. | 6 rue St Jean | Bayeux | 02–31–51–70–52 | www.normandy-sightseeing-tours.com.

EXPLORING

Musée Airborne (Airborne Museum).

Constructed behind the town church in 1964 in the form of an open parachute, this fascinating museum houses documents, maps, mementos, and one of the Waco CG4A gliders used to drop troops. | 14 rue Eisenhower | St-Mere L’Eglise | 02–33–41–41–35 | www.musee-airborne.com | €8 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9–6:45; Oct.–Dec., Feb., and Mar., daily 10–5.

Musee du Débarquement Utah Beach.

In La Madeleine, inspect the sleek, recently expanded Musee du Débarquement Utah Beach (Utah Beach Landing Museum)—a stunning facility, located right on the beach head, where exhibits include vintage aircraft and a W5 Utah scale model detailing the German defenses. Continue north to the Dunes de Varreville, where you’ll find a monument to French hero General Leclerc, who landed here. Offshore you can see the fortified Iles St-Marcouf. Carry on to Quinéville, at the far end of Utah Beach, to visit the Memorial de la Liberte at 18 Avenue de la Plage (02–33–95–95–95, www.memorial-quineville.com): open daily from April to September, this small museum evokes life during the German Occupation (€6.50). | Plage de La Madeleine | Ste Marie du Mont | 02–33–71–53–35 Utah Beach Landing Museum | www.utah-beach.com | €8 | June–Sept., daily 9:30–7; Oct.–Dec. and Feb.–May, daily 10–6.

Omaha Beach.

You won’t be disappointed by the rugged terrain and windswept sand of Omaha Beach, 16 km (10 miles) northwest of Bayeux. Here you can find the Monument du Débarquement (Monument to the Normandy Landings) and the Musée-Mémorial d’Omaha Beach, a large shedlike structure packed with tanks, dioramas, and archival photographs that stand silent witness to “Bloody Omaha.” Nearby, in Vierville-sur-Mer, is the U.S. National Guard Monument. Throughout June 6, Allied forces battled a hailstorm of German bullets and bombs, but by the end of the day they had taken the Omaha Beach sector—suffering grievous losses in the process. In Colleville-sur-Mer, overlooking Omaha Beach, is the hilltop American Cemetery and Memorial, designed by landscape architect Markley Stevenson; you can look out to sea across the landing beach from a platform on its north side. | Les Moulins, Av. de la Libération | Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer | 02–31–21–97–44 | www.musee-memorial-omaha.com | €6.20 | Mid-Feb.–mid-Mar., 10–12:30 and 2:30–6; mid-Mar.–mid-May and mid-Sept.–mid-Nov., 9:30–6:30; mid-May–mid-Sept., 9:30–7; July and Aug., daily 9:30–7:30.

Pointe du Hoc.

The most spectacular scenery along the coast is at the Pointe du Hoc, 13 km (8 miles) west of St-Laurent. Wildly undulating grassland leads past ruined blockhouses to a cliff-top observatory and a German machine-gun post whose intimidating mass of reinforced concrete merits chilly exploration. Despite Spielberg’s cinematic genius, it remains hard to imagine just how Colonel Rudder and his 225 Rangers—only 90 survived—managed to scale the jagged cliffs with rope ladders and capture the German defenses in one of the most heroic and dramatic episodes of the war. A granite memorial pillar now stands on top of a concrete bunker, but the site otherwise remains as the Rangers left it—look down through the barbed wire at the jutting cliffs the troops ascended and see the huge craters left by exploded shells. | Cricqueville-en-Bessin.

Sainte-Mère Église.

Head west on N13, pause in the town of Carentan to admire its modern marina and the mighty octagonal spire of the Église Notre-Dame, then continue northwest to Sainte-Mère Église. At 2:30 am on June 6, 1944, the 82nd Airborne Division was dropped over Ste-Mère, heralding the start of D-Day operations. After securing their position at Ste-Mère, U.S. forces pushed north, then west, cutting off the Cotentin Peninsula on June 18 and taking Cherbourg on June 26. German defenses proved fiercer farther south, and St-Lô was not liberated until July 19. Ste-Mère’s symbolic importance as the first French village to be liberated from the Nazis is commemorated by the Borne 0 (Zero) outside the town hall—a large dome milestone marking the start of the Voie de la Liberté (Freedom Way), charting the Allies’ progress across France. | Saint-Mère Eglise.

Utah Beach.

Head east on D67 from Ste-Mère to Utah Beach, which, being sheltered from the Atlantic winds by the Cotentin Peninsula and surveyed by lowly sand dunes rather than rocky cliffs, proved easier to attack than Omaha. Allied troops stormed the beach at dawn, and just a few hours later had managed to conquer the German defenses, heading inland to join up with the airborne troops. | Utah Beach | Ste-Marie du Mont.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel du Casino.

HOTEL | You can’t get closer to the action than this—the handsome, triangular-gabled stone hotel, run by the same family since it was built in the 1950s, looks directly onto Omaha Beach. The bar is made from an old lifeboat, and it’s no surprise that seafood and regional cuisine with creamy sauces predominate in Bruno Clemençon’s airy sea-view restaurant, where hotel guests are reserved a table by the window. Pros: calm; right by the beach. Cons: small bathrooms; slow service in restaurant. | Rooms from: €90 | Rue de la Percée | Vierville-sur-Mer | 02–31–22–41–02 | www.logishotels.com/fr/hotel-Hotel-Du-Casino-9769.html | 12 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–Mar. | Some meals.

La Chenevière.

HOTEL | Occupying an elegant 18th-century mansion that’s topped by an impressive mansard roof and surrounded by cheerful gardens, this is a true oasis of peace—although located only a few miles inland from World War II sites like Omaha Beach, it feels light years away. The super-stylish guest rooms are a fetching mix of Louis XVI chairs, gilded ormolu objects, modern photographs, and very chic fabrics. Overlooking the grand pool is La Chenevière’s showpiece: a stunning, glassed-in modern conservatory with wicker furniture and abstract art. The opulent restaurant, with wood paneling and lordly fireplaces, serves cuisine appropriate to its surroundings. Pros: magnificent architecture; luxurious rooms. Cons: three different buildings; no a/c in the château. | Rooms from: €260 | Les Escures, off D6 | Port-en-Bessin-Huppain | 02–31–51–25–25 | www.lacheneviere.com | 26 rooms, 3 suites | Closed Dec.–Mar. | Some meals.

ST-LÔ

36 km (22 miles) southwest of Bayeux.

St-Lô, perched dramatically on a rocky spur above the Vire Valley, was a key communications center that suffered so badly in World War II it became known as the “capital of ruins.” The medieval Église Notre-Dame bears mournful witness to those dark days: its imposing, spire-top west front was never rebuilt, merely shored up with a wall of greenish stone. Reconstruction elsewhere, though, was wholesale. Some of it was spectacular, like the slender, spiral-staircase tower outside the Mairie (Town Hall); the circular theater; or the openwork belfry of the church of Ste-Croix. The town was freed by American troops, and its rebuilding was financed with U.S. support, notably from the city of Baltimore. The Hôpital Mémorial France–États-Unis (France–United States Memorial Hospital), designed by Paul Nelson and featuring a giant mosaic by Fernand Léger, was named to honor those links.

Getting Here

Several trains daily come from Caen (45 mins, €13.70). Another 11 per day, departing from Gare St-Lazare, connect St-Lô and the capital; the trip requires a change in either Caen or Lison (3 hrs, €45).

Visitor Information

St-Lô Tourist Office. | Plage Verte,60 rue de la Poterne | 02–14–29–00–17 | www.saint-lo-agglo.fr/Decouvrir-et-Visiter.

EXPLORING

Haras National (National Stud).

St-Lô, the capital of the Manche département (province), also considers itself France’s horse capital. Hundreds of breeders are based in its environs, and the Haras National stud farm was established here in 1886. It can be visited by guided tour only—call the tourist office at least a month in advance to book one. | Rue du Maréchal Juin | 08–11–90–21–31 €0.34 per min, 02–14–29–00–17 tourist office | www.haras-nationaux.fr | €6 | Tours mid-Apr.–June and Sept., daily 2:30, 3:30, 4:30; July and Aug., daily 11, 2, 3, 4, 5.

Musée des Beaux-Arts.

St-Lô has the perfect French provincial art museum. Its halls are airy, seldom busy, not too big, yet full of varied exhibits—including an unexpected masterpiece: Gombault et Macée, a set of nine silk-and-wool tapestries woven in Bruges around 1600 relating a tale about a shepherd couple, exquisitely showcased in a special circular room. Other highlights include brash modern tapestries by Jean Lurçat; paintings by Corot, Boudin, and Géricault; and court miniatures by Daniel Saint. Photographs, models, and documents evoke St-Lô’s wartime devastation. | Centre Culturel, Pl. du Champ-de-Mars | 02–33–72–52–55 | www.musees-basse-normandie.fr | €2.75 | Wed.–Sun. 2–6.

Musée Dior.

If you’ve ever imagined your home strewn with haute-couture creations, this museum will, perhaps, give you a clearer picture. Christian Dior’s childhood abode is now France’s only museum dedicated to a fashion designer; a number of his garments are on display around the house, and special exhibitions focus on themes like Dior creations worn by movie stars on and off screen. The beautiful “artist’s” garden, created by Dior’s mother, overlooks the sea and contains a tearoom (open July and August from noon to 6:30). | Villa “Les Rhumbs,”1 rue d’Estouteville | Granville | 02–33–61–48–21 | www.musee-dior-granville.com | Museum €4; garden free | Museum: early May–late Sept., daily 10–6:30. Garden: Nov.–Feb., daily 9–5; Mar. and Oct., daily 9–8; June–Aug., daily 9–9.

GRANVILLE

107 km (67 miles) southwest of Caen.

Getting Here

Eleven trains daily leave Paris-Montparnasse for Granville (3 hrs, €46.30); regular bus service also links it to St-Lô (€2.30).

Visitor Information

Granville Tourist Office. | 4 Cours Jonville, adjoining City Hall | 02–33–91–30–03 | www.ville-granville.fr.

WHERE TO EAT

L’Echauguette.

FRENCH | There’s an excellent choice of lunchtime crêpes, both sweet and savory, at this quaint little crêperie on a narrow street in the upper town. Pancakes au gratin are a specialty. | Average main: €12 | 22 rue St-Jean | 02–33–50–51–87 | www.echauguette-granville.fr | Daily 11:30–3.

MONT-ST-MICHEL

61 km (39 miles) southwest of St-Lô via D999 and N175; 123 km (77 miles) southwest of Caen; 67 km (42 miles) north of Rennes; 325 km (202 miles) west of Paris.

Mont-St-Michel is the third-most-visited sight in France, after the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre. This beached mass of granite, rising some 400 feet, was begun in 709 and is crowned with the “Marvel,” or great monastery, that was built during the 13th century.

Getting Here

There are two routes to Mont-St-Michel, depending on whether you arrive from Caen or from Paris. From Caen you can take either an early-morning or an afternoon train to Pontorson (2 hrs, €28), the nearest rail station; then hop a cab or bus for the 15-minute drive to the foot of the abbey (both leave from in front of the station). From Paris, take the TGV from Gare Montparnasse to Rennes, in adjacent Brittany, and proceed onward by bus; the total journey takes three hours, 20 minutes (€72.70). There are several early-morning choices that allow you a full day on the Mont, including trains leaving at 7:04 am and arriving at 9:20 am; at 8:08 am and arriving 10:27 am; 9:08 am arriving at 11:14 am; or 10:08 am arriving just after noon.

TIP Paris City Vision (www.pariscityvision.com) runs full-day bus excursions from the capital to Mont-St-Michel for €170, meals and admissions included. But this is definitely not for the faint of heart—buses leave Paris at 7 am and return around 9:45 pm.

Visitor Information

Mont-St-Michel Tourist Office. | Corps de Garde, Bd. Avancée, | Le Mont St Michel | 02–33–60–14–30 | www.ot-montsaintmichel.com.

EXPLORING

Abbaye du Mont-St-Michel.

Wrought by nature and centuries of tireless human toil, this sea-surrounded mass of granite adorned with the soul-lifting silhouette of the Abbaye du Mont-St-Michel may well be your most lasting image of Normandy. The abbey is perched on a 264-foot-high rock a few hundred yards off the coast: it’s surrounded by water during the year’s highest tides and by desolate sand flats the rest of the time. Be warned: tides in the bay are dangerously unpredictable. The sea can rise up to 45 feet at high tide and rushes in at incredible speed—more than a few ill-prepared tourists over the years have drowned. Also, be warned that there are patches of dangerous quicksand. A causeway—to be replaced in time by a bridge, allowing the bay waters to circulate freely—links Mont-St-Michel to the mainland. Leave your car in the parking lot (€4) along the causeway, outside the main gate. If you’re staying the night on Mont-St-Michel, take what you need in a small suitcase; you cannot gain access to your hotel by car and the parking lot is unguarded at night. The Mont’s tourist office is in the Corps de Garde des Bourgeois, to the left just inside the island gates.

Legend has it that the Archangel Michael appeared in 709 to Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, inspiring him to build an oratory on what was then called Mont Tombe. The rock and its shrine were soon the objects of pilgrimages. The original church was completed in 1144, but additional buildings were added in the 13th century to accommodate monks as well as the hordes of pilgrims who flocked here even during the Hundred Years’ War, when the region was in English hands. During the period when much of western France was subjected to English rule, the abbey remained a symbol, both physical and emotional, of French independence. Because of its legendary origins and the sheer exploit of its centuries-long construction, the abbey became known as the “Merveille de l’Occident” (Wonder of the Western World). The granite used to build it was transported from the nearby Isles of Chausey and hauled up to the site, and the construction took more than 500 years, from 1017 to 1521. The abbey’s monastic independence was undermined during the 17th century, when the monks began to flout the strict rules and discipline of their order, drifting into a state of decadence that culminated in their dispersal and the abbey’s conversion into a prison, well before the French Revolution. In 1874 the former abbey was handed over to a governmental agency responsible for the preservation of historic monuments. Emmanuel Frémiet’s great gilt statute of St. Michael was added to the spire in 1897. Monks now live and work here again, as in medieval times: you can join them for daily mass at 12:15.

All year, an hour-long guided tour in English (two a day and night in high season) and French (up to two an hour) takes you through the impressive Romanesque and Gothic abbey and the spectacular Église Abbatiale, the abbey church, which crowns the rock, as well as the Merveille, a 13th-century, three-story collection of rooms and passageways. La Merveille was built by King Philippe Auguste around and on top of the monastery; on its second floor is the Mont’s grandest chamber, the Salle des Chevaliers. Another longer tour, which also includes the celebrated Escalier de Dentelle (Lace Staircase), and the pre-Roman, exquisitely evocative Notre-Dame-sous-Terre has a higher ticket price and is only given in French. Invest in at least one tour while you are here—some of them get you on top of or into things you can’t see alone. If you choose to proceed independently, stop halfway up Grande-Rue at the medieval parish church of St-Pierre to admire the richly carved side chapel with its dramatic statue of St. Michael slaying the dragon. The Grand Degré, a steep, narrow staircase, leads to the abbey entrance, from which a wider flight of stone steps climbs to the Saut Gautier Terrace (named after a prisoner who jumped to his death from it) outside the sober, dignified church. After visiting the arcaded cloisters alongside, which offer vertiginous views of the bay, you can wander at leisure, and probably get lost, among the maze of rooms, staircases, and vaulted halls. Scattered throughout the mount are four mini-museums, which cost €9 each or €18 together. The island village, with its steep, narrow streets, is best visited out of season, from September to June. In summer the hordes of tourists and souvenir sellers can be stifling. Give yourself at least half a day here, and follow your nose. The mount is full of nooks, crannies, little gardens, and echoing views from the ramparts. It’s worth lingering to see the Mont spectacularly illuminated, nightly from dusk to midnight. | Le Mont-St-Michel | 02–33–89–80–00 | www.mont-saint-michel.monuments-nationaux.fr | €9, €13.50 with audio guide | May–Aug., daily 9–7; Sept.–Apr., daily 9:30–6

The Logis Tiphaine.

Bertrand Duguesclin built this home for his wife Tiphaine in 1365. The former was a general fierce in his allegiance to the cause of French independence; the latter was a famed astrologer. Now a museum, the logis traces the intriguing couple’s marital life through rooms filled with period furnishings and interesting artifacts—including a medieval chastity belt, armor, and astrological tools. | Grande-Rue | Le Mont-St-Michel | 02–33–89–02–02 | www.ot-montsaintmichel.com | €9; €18 for 4-museum pass | July and Aug., daily 9–6; Sept.–Nov. 11 and Feb.–June, daily 9–5:30

Musée Historique.

Inside a former prison, the Musée Historique traces the 1,000-year history of the Mont. | Grande-Rue | Le Mont-St-Michel | 02–33–60–07–01 | www.ot-montsaintmichel.com | €9; €18 for 4-museum pass | July and Aug., daily 9–6; Sept.–Nov. 11 and Feb.–June, daily 9–5:30

Musée de la Mer et de l’Ecologie (Musée Maritime).

This museum explores the science of the Mont’s tidal bay and has a vast collection of model ships. | Grande-Rue | Le Mont-St-Michel | 02–33–60–85–12 | www.ot-montsaintmichel.com | €9; €18 for 4-museum pass | July and Aug., daily 9–6; Sept.–Nov. 11 and Feb.–June, daily 9–5:30

Archéoscope.

The Archéoscope explores the myths and legends of the Mont through a sound and light show. Some exhibits use wax figures fitted out in the most glamorous costumes of the 15th century. If you have time for just one museum, this makes the best introduction to the area. | Grande-Rue | Le Mont-St-Michel | 02–33–89–01–85 | www.au-mont-saint-michel.com/archeoscope/index.htm | €9; €18 for 4-museum pass | July and Aug., daily 9–6; Sept.–Nov. 11 and Feb.–June, daily 9–5:30.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Brittany

Northeast Brittany and the Channel Coast

The Atlantic Coast

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planning | Dining in Brittany | Celtic Elixir

Updated by Jack Vermee

Wherever you wander in Brittany—along jagged coastal cliffs, through cobbled seaport streets, into time-burnished cider pubs—you’ll hear the primal pulse of Celtic music. Made up of bagpipes, drums, and the thin, haunting filigree of a tin whistle, these folkloric tunes tell you that you are in the land of the Bretons, where Celtic bloodlines run as deep as a druid’s roots into the rocky, sea-swept soil.

France’s most fiercely and determinedly ethnic people, the Bretons delight in celebrating their ancient culture—circle dancing at street fairs, the women donning starched lace-bonnet coiffes, and the men in striped fishermen’s shirts at the least sign of a regional celebration. They name their children Erwan and Edwige, carry sacred statues in ceremonial religious processions called pardons, pray in hobbit-scale stone churches decked with elfin, moonfaced gargoyles. And scattered over the mossy hillsides stand Stonehenge-like dolmens and menhirs (prehistoric standing stones), eerie testimony to a primordial culture that predated and has long outlived Frankish France.

Similarities in character, situation, or culture to certain islands across the Channel are by no means coincidental. Indeed, the Celts that migrated to this westernmost outcrop of the French landmass spent much of the Iron Age on the British Isles, where they introduced the indigenes to innovations like the potter’s wheel, the rotary millstone, and the compass. This first influx of Continental culture to Great Britain was greeted with typically mixed feelings, and by the late 5th century AD the Saxon hordes had sent these Celtic “Brits” packing southward, to the peninsula that became Brittany. So completely did they dominate their new, Cornwall-like peninsula (appropriately named Finistère, from finis terrae, or “land’s end”) that when in 496 they allied themselves with Clovis, the king of the Franks, he felt as if he’d just claimed a little bit of England.

Needless to say, the cultural exchange flowed both ways over the Channel. From their days on the British Isles the Bretons brought a folklore that shares with England the bittersweet legend of Tristan and Iseult, and that weaves mystical tales of the Cornwall—Cornouaille—of King Arthur and Merlin. They brought a language that still renders village names unpronounceable: Aber-Wrac’h, Tronoën, Locmariaquer, Poldreuzic, Kerhornaouen. They brought a way of life with them, too: half-timber seaside cider bars, their blackened-oak tables softened with prim bits of lace; stone cottages fringed with clumps of hollyhock, hydrangea, and foxglove; bearded fishermen in yellow oilskins heaving the day’s catch into weather-beaten boats as terns and seagulls wheel in their wake. It’s a way of life that feels deliciously exotic to the Frenchman and—like the ancient drone of the bagpipes—comfortably, delightfully, even innately familiar to the Anglo-Saxon.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Waterworld: Experience the extreme drama of the Granite Coast, with its crazy-shape outcrops, or the rippling waters of the Bay of Morbihan, snuggling in the Gulf Stream behind the angry Atlantic.

The wild isle: Venture down the untamed Quiberon Peninsula and catch a boat to rugged, unspoiled Belle-Ile-en-Mer, Brittany’s wildest island.

Gauguin’s Pont-Aven: A cité des artistes, Pont-Aven and its colorful folkloric ways helped ignite the painter’s interest in Tahiti.

Unidentical twins: A ferry ride across the Rance River links two delightfully contrasting towns: ancient, once pirate-ridden St-Malo and genteel, Edwardian Dinard.

Stone me!: Contemplate the solemn majesty of row upon row of anciens menhirs at Carnac, the “French Stonehenge.”

GETTING ORIENTED

Bretons like to say they are Celtic, not Gallic, and other French people sometimes feel they are in a foreign land when they visit this jagged triangle perched on the northwest tip of mainland Europe. Two sides of the triangle are defined by the sea. Brittany’s northern coast faces the English Channel; its western coast defies the Atlantic Ocean. The north of Brittany tends to be wilder than the south, or Basse Bretagne, where the countryside becomes softer as it descends toward Nantes and the Loire. But wherever you go, “Côtes d’Armor”—the Land of the Sea—is never too far away.

WHAT’S WHERE

Northeast Brittany and the Channel Coast. The northern half of Brittany is demarcated by its 240-km (150-mile) Channel Coast, which stretches from Cancale, just west of Normandy’s Mont-St-Michel, to Morlaix. This can be loosely divided into two parts: the Côte d’Emeraude (Emerald Coast), with cliffs punctuated by golden, curving beaches; and the Côte de Granit Rose (Pink Granite Coast), including the astonishing area around Trébeurden, where Brittany’s granite takes amazing forms that glow an otherworldly pink. On the road heading there are the gateway city of Rennes; the oyster mecca of Cancale; and the great port of St-Malo, where stone ramparts conjure up the days of marauding corsairs.

The Atlantic Coast. Bypassing the lobster-claw of Brittany’s Finistère (“Land’s End”), this westernmost region tempts with folkloric treasures like Ste-Anne-la-Palud (famed for its pardon festival); Quimper, noted for its signature ceramics; and cheerful, riverside villages like Pont-Aven, which Gauguin immortalized in many paintings. Here, the 320-km (200-mile) Atlantic coast zigzags southeast, its frenzied, cliff-bashing surf alternating with sprawling beaches and busy harbors. Belle-Ile is a jewel off the Morbihan coast, another beautiful stretch of shoreline. Enjoy its away-from-it-all atmosphere, because the bustling city of Nantes lies just to the southeast.

PLANNING

WHEN TO GO

The tourist season is short in Brittany: late June through early September. Long, damp winters keep visitors away, and many hotels are closed until Easter. Brittany is particularly crowded in July and August, when most French people are on vacation, so why not opt for crowd-free June or September? Some say early October, with autumnal colors and crisp evenings, is even better and truly makes for an invigorating visit. But if you want to sample local folklore, late summer is the most festive time to come.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

If you have just a few days here, choose your coast: Channel or Atlantic! Cliffs and beaches, culture and history—both shorelines offer all these and more. St-Malo makes a good base if you’re Channel bound. Dinard, the elegant Belle Époque resort once favored by British aristocrats, is nearby; and the lively, student-filled city of Rennes offers an urban respite.

Pretty Vannes is a good base for exploring the Atlantic coast. Highlights hereabouts include lively Quimper, with its fine cathedral and coveted pottery; the painters’ village of Pont-Aven, made famous by Gauguin; the prehistoric menhirs of Carnac; the rugged island of Belle-Ile-en Mer; and the picturesque Bay of Morbihan. The third side of the Brittany triangle is its verdant, unhurried hinterland. Charming—but forget it unless you’re here for a month.

FESTIVALS AND PARDONS

It has been said that there are as many Breton saints as there are stones in the ground. One of the great attractions of Brittany, therefore, remains its many festivals, pardons (religious processions), and folklore events. Banners and saintly statues are borne in colorful parades, accompanied by hymns, and the events are often capped by a feast. In February, the great Pardon de Terre-Neuve takes place at St-Malo. Nantes prepares for Easter with a pre-Lenten carnival procession, and then follows up in June with a ceremonial Feux de Saint-Jean (bonfire honoring St. John). July sees Quimper’s Celtic Festival de Cornouaille, while August brings Lorient’s Festival Interceltique, Pont-Aven’s Festival of the Golden Gorse, and a big pardon in Ste-Anne-la-Palud. Another pardon held in Le Folgoët during September is one of the most extraordinary, with flocks of bishops, Bretons in traditional costumes, and devout pilgrims.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

In just over two hours the TGV train from Paris can whisk you to Rennes, the hub of Brittany. Once in the region, you’ll find that the rail network can take you onward to many popular places. You’ll need to combine a train ride with a short bus jaunt, though, to reach others; and a car will be required if you want to see some of the most sublime (and secluded) landscapes. If you’re driving from Paris, you’re best to approach Brittany via the A11 expressway.

Air Travel

The closest major airports are Paris’s Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) and Orly; however, Brittany does have several regional airports. The Aéroport Nantes Atlantique and the Aéroport Rennes Bretagne are both served by big players like Air France (www.airfrance.com), as well as assorted low-cost airlines—including Flybe (www.flybe.com) and HOP! (www.hop.fr)—which provide air links to other European cities, sometimes on a seasonal basis. The Aéroport de Dinard-Pleurtuit-Saint-Malo, meanwhile, has thrice-weekly connections to London (Stansted) operated by Ryanair (www.ryanair.com).

Airport Information

Aéroport de Dinard-Pleurtuit-Saint-Malo. | Dinard | 02–99–46–18–46 | www.dinard.aeroport.fr.

Aéroport Nantes Atlantique. | D85, southwest of city, Bouguenais, | Nantes | 02–40–84–80–00 | www.nantes-aeroport.fr.

Aéroport Rennes Bretagne. | D177, southwest of city, | Rennes | 02–99–29–60–00 | www.rennes.aeroport.fr.

Boat Travel

Brittany Ferries is the leading company for maritime transportation between this region and the U.K. It offers daily overnight crossings from Portsmouth to St-Malo (10 hrs, 30 min; from €200 for a car and two passengers). Vessels also make the crossing from Plymouth to Roscoff, on Brittany’s westernmost tip, up to two times daily: daytime trips take 6 hours, nighttime ones take 8 (from €175 for a car and two passengers).

Boat Information

Brittany Ferries. | 0871/244–0744 in U.K., 08–25–82–88–28 in France (€0.34 per min) | www.brittany-ferries.com.

Bus Travel

Brittany is serviced by a bewildering number of bus companies. Generally speaking, routes in each part of it are coordinated through an umbrella organization: for travel in the Ille-et-Vilaine region around Rennes, Illenoo is a good bet; for the Morbihan region around Vannes and Lorient use CTM or Keolis Atlantique; for Finistère and coastal towns near Quimper, arrange your trip through CAT; and for the Côtes d’Armor region around St-Malo, check out Tibus or Keolis Emeraude.

Bus Information

CAT. | 02–98–44–60–60 | www.cat29.fr.

CTM. | 02–97–01–22–01 | www.lactm.com.

Illenoo. | 08–10–35–10–35 €0.34 per min | www.illenoo-services.fr.

Keolis Atlantique. | 02–97–47–29–64 | www.keolis-atlantique.com.

Keolis Emeraude. | 02–99–19–70–70 | www.keolis-emeraude.com.

Tibus. | 08–10–22–22–22 €0.34 per min | www.tibus.fr.

Car Travel

Rennes, the gateway to Brittany, is 347 km (215 miles) west of Paris. It can be reached in about three hours via Le Mans using A11 then A18 (A11 continues southwest from Le Mans to Nantes). Rennes is also linked by good roads to Quimper (N24/N165), Vannes (N24/N166), and several other key locales. But a car is pretty much essential if you want to see out-of-the-way places. When planning a coastal road trip, remember to allocate plenty of time—winding roads make for slow (albeit scenic) driving.

Train Travel

High-speed TGVs from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse travel multiple times a day to Rennes (2 hrs, 15 mins), Nantes (2 hrs, 20 mins), Vannes (3 hrs, 20 mins), La Baule (3 hrs, 30 mins), Lorient (4 hrs), and Quimper (4 hrs, 30 mins). The region as a whole is nicely threaded by train lines, making most Breton towns accessible by rail; however, some communities—like Cancale and Carnac—can be reached by car or bus only.

Train Information

SNCF. | 3635 €0.34 per min | www.voyages-sncf.com.

TGV. | www.tgv.com.

HOTELS

Aside from the usual selection of hotels in the main cities (Rennes and Nantes), Brittany has plenty of small and appealing family-run accommodations that cater to seasonal visitors. Note that many close for one or more months between October and March. Booking ahead is strongly advised for the Easter period. This is also the case for midsummer, when prices are routinely ratcheted up by 30% to 50%. Dinard, on the English Channel, and La Baule, on the Atlantic, are the area’s two most expensive resorts.Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Different Breton regions have their own tourist offices, as do many individual communities (the latter are listed under specific destinations below); however, your single best source for trip-planning information in English is the Brittany Tourism website.

Brittany Tourism. | www.brittanytourism.com.

Comité Départemental du Tourisme de Loire-Atlantique. | 11 rue du Château de l’Eraudière | Nantes | 02–51–72–95–30 | www.ohlaloireatlantique.com.

Côtes-d’Armor Tourisme. | 7 rue St-Benoît | St-Brieuc | 02–96–58–06–58 | www.cotesdarmor.com.

Finistère Tourisme. | 4 rue du 19 mars 1962 | Quimper | 02–98–76–25–64 | www.finisteretourisme.com.

Maison de la Bretagne. | 8 rue de l’Arrivée | Paris | 01–53–63–11–50 | www.maison-dela-bretagne.fr.

PARLEZ-VOUS BRETON?

Most place names in Brittany are in the Breton language; the popular term plou means “parish”—this is where the French got the word plouc, meaning “hick.” Other common geographical names are coat (forest), mor (sea), aber or aven (estuary), ster (river), and enez (island). Ty and ti, like the French chez, mean “at the house of.” Traditional Breton folkways are an integral part of France’s cultural patrimony—and a priceless boost to tourism—so preserving the Breton language is a goal shared by many.

DINING IN BRITTANY

Bounded on two of its three sides by water, Brittany is blessed with an abundance of fresh seafood. Aquatic delights, not surprisingly, dominate Breton cuisine, but crêpes, lamb, and butter also play starring roles.

Maritime headliners include coquilles St-Jacques (scallops); langoustines, which are something between a large shrimp and a lobster; and oysters, prized for their balance of briny and sweet. Perhaps the most famous regional seafood dishes are homard à l’armoricaine, lobster with cream, and cotriade, fish soup with potatoes, onions, garlic, and butter.

Beyond the sea, the lamb that hails from farms on the little island of Ouessant is well known. Called pré-salé, or “salt meadow,” lambs feed on sea-salted grass, which tenderizes their meat while their hearts are still pumping. Try the regional ragoût de mouton and you can taste the difference. Of all its culinary treasures, however, Brittany is best known as home of the humble crêpe—a large, delicate pancake served warm with a variety of sweet or savory fillings.

CELTIC ELIXIR

Chouchen, Brittany’s classic meadlike beverage made from honey, dates back to Celtic times, when it was considered an aphrodisiac and an elixir d’immortalité. This delicious drink is traditionally served cold as an aperitif to highlight its refreshing qualities and its soft, earthy flavor.

Crêpes

Brittany’s most illustrious contribution to French cuisine is the crêpe and its heartier sibling the galette. What’s the difference between the two? The darker galette is made with tender buckwheat called blé noir or blé sarrasin, and has a deeper flavor that’s best paired with savory fillings—like lobster, mushrooms, or the traditional ham and cheese. A crêpe is wafer-thin and made with a lighter batter. It is typically served with sweet fillings like strawberries and cream, apples in brandy, or chocolate. Accompanied by a glass of local cider, galettes and crêpes make an ideal light, inexpensive meal. Traditionally, crêpes are eaten from the tails toward the center point to save the most flavorful, buttery part for last.

Cancale Oyster

At around €8 a dozen, you simply can’t do better than a plate of freshly shucked Cancale oysters and half a lemon from a seafood stand along the quay. Best enjoyed atop the breezy sea wall overlooking the Mont-St-Michel bay, you can just toss the shells into the water after slurping the succulent insides. Cancale’s oyster beds benefit from some of the world’s highest tides and strongest currents, which keep the oysters oxygen- and plankton-rich, resulting in a large, firm, yet tender specimen.

Plougastel Strawberry and Camus de Bretagne Artichoke

Together, the four regions of Brittany make up France’s highest-yielding farmland. Among the more prosaic crops grown here are two standouts: the large, fleshy camus artichoke and the plump Plougastel strawberry. Come spring, the markets of Brittany (and Paris, for that matter) are teeming with enthusiastic cooks just itching to get their hands on the first produce of the season. The juicy Plougastel strawberries only appear for a few weeks in June, while artichoke season runs into the fall.

Le Beurre

Temperate Brittany’s lush grazing lands make for exceptional milk products and, like wine, they are discussed in terms of élévages (maturity) and terroir (origin). Butter your roll at a four-star Paris restaurant and you’re likely getting a taste of Brittany’s finest—le beurre Bordier. Jacques Bordier, headquartered in St-Malo’s Vieille Ville, sets the gold standard for butter, and his luscious sweet cream version is exported daily to top restaurants throughout France. Other flavors include a pungent purple- and green-flecked algae butter (best slathered on sourdough bread and eaten with oysters), and the beurre fleur de sel de Guérande, laced with crunchy grains of the prized gray-hued salt hand-harvested in the salt marshes of Guérande, near La Baule.

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Vitré | Rennes | Combourg | Dinan | Cancale | St-Malo | Dinard | Paimpol | Trébeurden

It’s useful to know that Brittany is divided into two nearly equal parts—Upper Brittany, along the Channel coast, and Lower Brittany. The latter (called Basse-Bretagne or Bretagne Bretonnante in French) is, generally speaking, the more interesting. But the Channel coast of Upper Brittany has its share of marvels. The rolling farmland around Rennes is strewn with mighty castles, remnants of Brittany’s ceaseless efforts to repel invaders during the Middle Ages and a testimony to the wealth derived from pirate and merchant ships. The beautiful Côte d’Émeraude (Emerald Coast) stretches west from Cancale to St-Brieuc, and the dramatic Côte de Granit Rose (Pink Granite Coast) extends from Paimpol to Trébeurden and the corniche Bretonne. Follow the coastal routes D786 and D34—winding, narrow roads that total less than 100 km (62 miles) but can take five hours to drive; the spectacular views that unfold en route make the journey worthwhile.

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VITRÉ

42 km (26 miles) east of Rennes via N157 and D777.

There’s still a feel of the Middle Ages about the formidable castle, tightly packed half-timber houses, remaining ramparts, and dark alleyways of Vitré (pronounced vee-tray). Built high above the Vilaine Valley, the small medieval walled town that spreads out from the castle’s gates is the best-preserved in Brittany and utterly beguiling.

Getting Here

Several trains traveling from Paris through Rennes stop daily in Vitré. The trip from Rennes takes 30 minutes.

Visitor Information

Vitré Tourist Office. | Pl. Général de Gaulle | 02–99–75–04–46 | www.ot-vitre.fr.

EXPLORING

Château de Vitré.

Rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries to protect Brittany from invasion, the fairy-tale, 11th-century Château de Vitré—shaped in an imposing triangle with fat, round towers—proved to be one of the province’s most successful fortresses: during the Hundred Years’ War (1337–1453) the English repeatedly failed to take it, even when they occupied the rest of the town. It’s a splendid sight, especially from the vantage point of Rue de Fougères across the river valley below. Time, not foreigners, came closest to ravaging the castle, which has been heavily though tastefully restored during the past century.

The Hôtel de Ville (town hall), however, is an unfortunate 1913 accretion to the castle courtyard. Visit the wing to the left of the entrance, beginning with the Tour St-Laurent and its museum, which contains 15th- and 16th-century sculptures, Aubusson tapestries, and engravings.

Continue along the walls via the Tour de l’Argenterie—which contains a macabre collection of stuffed frogs and reptiles preserved in glass jars—to the Tour de l’Oratoire (Oratory Tower). | Pl. du Château | 02–99–75–04–54 | www.mairie-vitre.com | €4 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10:30–12:30 and 2–6:30; Oct.–Mar., Mon, Wed.–Fri. 10:30–12:30 and 2–5, weekends 2–5.

Historical Vitré Sites.

The church of Notre-Dame, with its fine, pinnacled south front, was built in the 15th and 16th centuries. This is a good starting point to visit the 10 or so other picturesque historical sites, from medieval postern gateways to the 14th-century St. Nicolas hospital chapel (now a museum of religious art) within town; other jewels, such as Madame de Sévigné’s Château-Musée des Roches-Sévigné, are set in the nearby countryside. Inquire at the tourist office for details. | Pl. Notre-Dame.

Tour de la Bridole.

Fragments of the town’s medieval ramparts include the 15th-century Tour de la Bridole, five blocks up from Vitré’s castle. | Rue de la Bridole, near Pl. de la République.

WHERE TO STAY

Le Petit Billot.

HOTEL | Faded pastel tones and carved paneling in the breakfast room give this small family-run hotel a delightful French provincial air; when you retire you’ll find that the guest rooms may not be spacious but they are spic-and-span—and a steal at the price. The hotel has an informal relationship with Le Potager de Louise, the restaurant right next door, which serves reliable, though rather unexciting, Breton cuisine (closed Sunday, Monday, and the second and third weeks of August). Pros: family ambience; great value. Cons: rooms are small; most bathrooms have only showers, not tubs. | Rooms from: €60 | 5 bis, pl. du Général-Leclerc | 02–99–75–02–10 | www.hotel-vitre.com | 21 rooms | No meals.

RENNES

347 km (215 miles) west of Paris, 107 km (66 miles) north of Nantes.

Rennes (pronounced wren) is the capital of and traditional gateway to this region. It’s also one of Brittany’s liveliest cities, thanks to the 40,000-odd students who set a youthful tone during the school year. Place Ste-Anne, where bars and cafés are housed in medieval buildings with character to spare, is particularly packed. Although summer seems to happen elsewhere for most Rennais, it is still a pleasant time for visitors. United with the Kingdom of France in 1532, Rennes has long been the political center of Brittany, and its stature is reflected in grand public edifices—many of them erected after fire swept through the city in 1720. The remaining cobbled streets and 15th-century half-timber houses form an interesting contrast to the classical feel of the cathedral and Jacques Gabriel’s 18th-century disciplined granite buildings, broad avenues, and spacious squares.

Getting Here and Around

The TGV Atlantique arrives from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse 15 times daily (2 hrs, 15 mins; €40). Rennes’s train station (a 20-minute walk from the heart of the city) can also reached from Nantes (1 hr, 40 mins; €25.60) and St-Malo (55 mins; €15). Buses from Nantes (2 hrs), St-Malo (2 hrs), and Mont-St-Michel (1 hr, 25 mins) pull into the gare routière next door, though it’s not the safest place to hang out. Within the city, buses and subways operated by STAR (www.metro-rennes-metropole.fr) will get you anywhere you want to go. If you’d prefer to cycle, try the Vélo STAR rental scheme (www.levelostar.fr); you’ll pay €1 for an hour of pedaling.

Visitor Information

Rennes Tourist Office. | 11 rue St-Yves | 02–99–67–11–11 | www.tourisme-rennes.com.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale St-Pierre.

A late-18th-century building in Classical style that took 57 years to construct, the Cathédrale St-Pierre looms above Rue de la Monnaie at the west end of the Vieille Ville (Old Town), bordered by the Rance River. Stop in to admire its richly decorated interior and outstanding 16th-century Flemish altarpiece. | Carrefour de la Cathédrale | www.tourisme-rennes.com | Daily 9:30–noon and 3–6.

Musée de Bretagne (Museum of Brittany).

Designed by superstar architect Christian de Portzamparc, this museum occupies a vast three-part space that it shares with the Rennes municipal library and Espaces des Sciences. Portzamparc’s layout harmonizes nicely with the organization of the museum’s extensive ethnographic and archeological collection, which depicts the everyday life of Bretons from prehistoric times to the present. There’s also a space devoted to the famous Dreyfus Affair; Alfred Dreyfus, an army captain who was wrongly accused of espionage and whose case was championed by Émile Zola, was tried a second time in Rennes in 1899. | 10 cours des Allies | 02–23–40–66–00 | www.musee-bretagne.fr | €4 museum, €7 including exhibitions | Tues. noon–9, Wed.–Fri. noon–7, weekends 2–7.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

Containing works by Georges de La Tour, Jean-Baptiste Chardin, Camille Corot, Paul Gauguin, and Maurice Utrillo, to name a few, this museum is particularly strong on French 17th-century paintings and drawings, and has an interesting collection of works by modern French artists. | 20 quai Émile Zola | 02–23–62–17–45 | www.mbar.org | €5, free the 1st Sun. of each month | Wed.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–6, Tues. 10–6.

Parc du Thabor.

Make sure you stroll through this lovely park, east of the Palais des Musées. It’s a large, formal French garden with regimented rows of trees, shrubs, and flowers, and a notable view of the church of Notre-Dame-en-St-Melaine. | Pl. St-Melaine.

Parlement de Bretagne.

Originally the palatial home of the Breton Parliament and now of the Rennes law courts, the Parlement de Bretagne was designed in 1618 by Salomon de Brosse, architect of the Luxembourg Palace in Paris. It was the most important building in Rennes to escape the 1720 flames; however, in 1994, following a massive demonstration by Breton fishermen demanding state subsidies, another disastrous fire broke out that left it a charred shell. Fortunately, much of the artwork—though damaged—was saved by firefighters, who arrived at the scene after the building was already engulfed in flames. It was a case of the alarm that cried “fire” once too often; a faulty bell, which rang regularly for no reason, had led the man on duty to ignore the signal. It has been completely restored. Call the tourist office (02–99–67–11–11) to book a 90-minute guided tour. | Rue Nationale | www.tourisme-rennes.com | €7.20, by guided tour only (reservation required) | Weekdays 8:45–noon, 1:45–5.

WHERE TO STAY

Garden.

HOTEL | With all rooms overlooking a picturesque, stone-lined, treillage-bedecked garden, this hotel likes to welcome visitors to “silent nights”—and cheerful ones, too, thanks to the charmant guest rooms, which are stylishly wrought in pink and orange pastels, with wicker-wood headboards and fetching wood-trim furniture. Breakfast (at additional cost) is served in the garden when possible, and its age-old wooden gallery makes this sunny inner courtyard a sweet place to reboot. Room 202 is the most spacious. Pros: pretty architecture; handy for sights. Cons: small rooms; difficult parking. | Rooms from: €73 | 3 rue Jean-Marie Duhamel | 02–99–65–45–06 | www.hotel-garden.fr | 25 rooms | No meals.

Le Coq-Gadby.

HOTEL | A 19th-century mansion with huge fireplaces and fine antiques sets the stage for this cozy retreat, which gets serious about pampering its guests, thanks to homey accommodations and Julien Lemarié’s cuisine—French presidents have dined here on such delicacies as langoustine au sake with crème de riz; floral accents and four-poster beds grace the best of the guest rooms here, while hydrotherapy facilities, a hammam, a Jacuzzi, and a sauna await in the spa. Little wonder you have to reserve way in advance for this popular hotel and restaurant (closed Sunday and Monday, no lunch on Wednesday). Pros: manorial surroundings; great organic cuisine; cute shop. Cons: hotel rooms often booked solid; expensive. | Rooms from: €170 | 156 rue d’Antrain | 02–99–38–05–55 | www.lecoq-gadby.com | 11 rooms | Some meals.

Mercure Rennes Place de Bretagne.

HOTEL | Ranging in style from Rococo revisited to severe Neoclassical, these three side-by-side 19th-century buildings add up to one centrally located hotel; it’s a good option, on a quiet, narrow backstreet close to the cathedral and a few blocks from the town’s main museums and theaters. The interior is minimal-meets-traditional in terms of decor. In the lobby, clocks toll the hours in countries around the world, while modern, neat-as-a-pin guest rooms, all in beiges and maroons, offer tranquil havens for businesspeople and weary travelers. Pros: city-center location; quiet rooms. Cons: interiors a bit bland; no restaurant. | Rooms from: €97 | 6 rue Lanjuinais | 02–99–79–12–36 | www.mercure.com | 48 rooms | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Top spots for nightlife are on the streets around Place Ste-Anne.

L’Espace.

If you feel like dancing the night away, head to L’Espace. | 45 bd. de la Tour d’Auvergne | 02–99–23–00–00 | www.discotheque-espace.fr.

Les Tombées de la Nuit.

During the first three weekends in July, Les Tombées de la Nuit (or “Nightfalls” Festival) features Celtic music, dance, and theater performances staged in the streets and in churches around town. | 02–99–32–56–56 | www.lestombeesdelanuit.com.

Les Trans Musicales.

The famous annual international rock-and-roll festival, Les Trans Musicales, happens the first half of December in bars around town and at the Théâtre National de Bretagne. | 02–99–31–12–10 | www.lestrans.com.

Opéra de Rennes.

Brittany’s top classical music venue is the Opéra de Rennes. | Pl. de la Mairie | 02–23–62–28–28 ticket office | www.opera-rennes.fr.

Pym’s Club.

With three dance floors, Pym’s Club stays open all night, every night. | 27 pl. du Colombier | 02–99–67–30–00 | www.pyms.fr.

Théâtre National de Bretagne.

A range of performances are staged at the Théâtre National de Bretagne. | 1 rue Saint-Hélier | 02–99–31–55–33 | www.t-n-b.fr.

SHOPPING

A lively market is held on Place des Lices on Saturday morning.

COMBOURG

40 km (25 miles) north of Rennes via D137 and D795.

The pretty lakeside village of Combourg is dominated by Château de Combourg, the boyhood home of Romantic writer Viscount René de Chateaubriand (1768–1848).

Getting Here

A dozen daily trains (30 mins, €8.60) make the trip from Rennes. Bus service is also available through Illenoo.

EXPLORING

Château de Combourg (Cat’s Tower).

Chateaubriand, an icon of the Romantic Era, grew up in the thick-walled, four-tower Château de Combourg. Topped with “witches’ cap” towers that the poet likened to Gothic crowns, it dates mainly from the 14th and 15th centuries. Quartered in the tower called “La Tour du Chat” along with roosting birds and the ghost of the wooden-legged Comte de Combourg, young René succumbed to the chateau’s moody spell and, in turn, became a leading light of Romanticism. His novel Atala and René, about a tragic love affair between a French soldier and a Native American maiden, was an international sensation in the mid-19th century, while his multivolume History of Christianity was required reading for half of Europe. The château grounds—ponds, woods, and cattle-strewn meadowland—are suitably mournful and can seem positively desolate when viewed under leaden skies. Its melancholy is best captured in Chateaubriand’s famous Mémoires d’outre-tombe (Memories from Beyond the Tomb). Inside you can view neo-Gothic salons, the Chateaubriand archives, and the writer’s severe bedroom up in the “Cat’s Tower.” | Rue des Princes | 02–99–73–22–95 | www.chateau-combourg.com | €8.30, park only €3.70 | Château (guided tours only): Apr.–June and Sept., Sun.–Fri. 2–5:30; July and Aug., daily 10:45–12:30 and 2–5:30; Oct., Sun.–Fri. 2–5. Park: Apr.–Oct., Sun.–Fri. 10–12:30 and 2–6. Both are open during school vacations in Nov., Feb., and Mar. See website for details.

WHERE TO STAY

Château de La Ballue.

HOTEL | Nineteenth-century writers Alfred de Musset, Honoré de Balzac, and Victor Hugo were all once guests at this quintessential Normand château, famed for sophisticated gardens that feature witty sculptures, leafy groves, impressive columns of yew, a fernery, a labyrinth, and a Temple of Diana. Dating from 1620, La Ballue has a rather severe and forbidding exterior. Inside, however, the dynamic English-speaking owners Alain and Marie-Françoise Mathiot-Mathon offer a warm welcome. Gleaming wood paneling and period antiques adorn the main floor, from which a huge granite staircase leads up to the lovely guest rooms—four large, beautifully decorated, fabric-swathed salons (each with a four-poster bed) and a luxury suite. Pros: exceptional taste; a superb example of the “art de vivre.” Cons: isolated; noted restaurant here now closed. | Rooms from: €220 | 18 km (11 miles) east of Combourg, Bazouges-la-Pérouse | 02–99–97–47–86 | www.la-ballue.com | 5 rooms | Breakfast.

DINAN

35 km (20 miles) west of Combourg.

During the frequent wars that devastated other cities in the Middle Ages, the merchants who ruled Dinan got rich selling stuff to whichever camp had the upper hand, well aware that loyalty to any side—be it the French, the English, or the Breton—would eventually lead to the destruction of their homes. The strategy worked: today Dinan is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Brittany. Although there’s no escaping the crowds here in summer, in the off-season or early morning Dinan feels like a time-warped medieval playground.

Along Place des Merciers, Rue de l’Apport, and Rue de la Poissonnerie, take note of the splendid gabled wooden houses. Rue du Jerzual, which leads to Dinan’s harbor, is divided halfway down by the town walls and the massive Porte du Jerzual gateway; it’s lined with 15th- and 16th-century warehouses that have been converted into restaurants, boutiques, and crafts shops. In summer, you can take a boat trip down the Rance River to St-Malo (€31.60 round-trip | 08–25–13–81–00), or head upstream to the medieval abbey of St-Magloire, and learn how Napoléon canalized the Rance to enable French boats to cut across to the Atlantic, thereby avoiding English warships in the Channel (€13 round-trip | www.vedettejamaniv.com). Above the harbor, near Porte St-Malo, is the leafy Promenade des Grands Fossés, the best-preserved section of the town walls, which leads to the castle.

Getting Here

If you come to Dinan by train, you’ll arrive in the Art Deco gare on Place du 11-Novembre-1918. Trains from Rennes take just over an hour and require a change at Dol-de-Bretagne (€15). Tibus buses transfer from the train stations in St-Malo (55 mins) and Dinard (45 mins). Illenoo buses also connect Dinan to Rennes (1hr, 15 mins) several times a day.

Visitor Information

Dinan Tourist Office. | 9 rue du Château | 02–96–87–69–76 | www.dinan-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Basilique St-Sauveur.

Embracing a range of architectural styles, Basilique St-Sauveur has a Romanesque south front, a Flamboyant Gothic facade, and Renaissance side chapels. The old trees in the Jardin Anglais (English Garden) behind the church provide a nice frame; more spectacular views can be found at the bottom of the garden, which looks down the plummeting Rance Valley to the river below. | Pl. St-Sauveur | 02–99–78–48–80 | Daily 9–6.

Château.

The stolidly built, fortresslike Château, at the end of the Promenade des Petits Fossés, has a two-story tower and a 100-foot, 14th-century donjon (keep) containing a museum with varied displays of medieval effigies and statues, Breton furniture, and locally made lace coiffes (head coverings). | Porte de Guichet | 02–96–39–45–20 | www.mairie-dinan.com | €4.60 | June–Sept., daily 10–6:30; Easter–May and Oct.–mid-Nov., daily 1:30–5:30.

Tour de l’Horloge (Clock Tower).

For a superb view of town, climb to the top of this medieval tower. | Passage de la Tour de l’Horloge | 02–96–87–58–72 | www.dinan-tourisme.com | €4 | May, daily 2–6; June–Sept., daily 10–6:30.

WHERE TO STAY

Arvor.

HOTEL | The cobbled streets of the Vieille Ville are visible from this comfortable 18th-century hotel directly across from the town theater. Guest rooms are bright and modern with stylish bathroom; No. 11 and 21 are largest, with pleasing views over the old town. Tall patrons take note: rooms on the top floor have sloping ceilings. Service is personable and friendly, and parking is reasonable (€6 for the day), a real plus in the busy town center. Pros: central; pleasant views from most rooms. Cons: smallish bathrooms. | Rooms from: €110 | 5 rue Auguste-Pavie | 02–96–39–21–22 | www.hotelarvordinan.com | 24 rooms | Closed Jan. | No meals.

D’Avaugour.

HOTEL | Set on the town ramparts, with pretty sash windows, mansard roofs, and a Breton stone facade, this hotel has a sunny flower garden, which the best rooms (such as No. 19 and No. 28) overlook. Start the day with the full buffet breakfast (€14.25) and a chat with the charming owner, Nicolas Caron, who enjoys both speaking English and helping everyone plan day trips. There’s a colorful street market opposite the hotel every Thursday morning. Pros: great breakfasts; friendly, welcoming host. Cons: can be noisy; not all rooms have a view. | Rooms from: €147 | 1 pl. du Champ Clos | 02–96–39–07–49 | www.avaugourhotel.com | 21 rooms, 3 suites | Closed Nov.–Feb. | No meals.

Le Logis du Jerzual.

B&B/INN | Up a storybook-perfect street lined with ancient half-timber houses, this fetching maison d’hôte dates to the 15th century and has been brought up-to-date in the best way, retaining much of its substantial character and charm. Each of five cozy guest rooms is done up in period antiques with botanical prints and matching fabrics. The Pastorale room, all in sky-blue toile, has Oriental rugs and a view over the pretty garden; the largest room, La Halte, has a big fireplace, rustic antiques, and a view through leaded-glass windows to the quiet street below. Breakfast (included) is served in a quaint dining room or outdoors in the garden with views of the medieval city. Pros: warm welcome; great prices; short walk into town and port. Cons: smallish rooms; steep climb up a cobblestone street. | Rooms from: €85 | 25–27 rue du Petit-fort | 02–96–85–46–54 | www.logis-du-jerzual.com | 5 rooms | Breakfast.

SHOPPING

One of the leading craft havens in France, Dinan has attracted many wood-carvers, jewelers, leather workers, glass specialists, and silk painters, who have set up shop in the medieval houses that line the cobbled, sloping rue de Jerzual. Other delightful studios and artisan boutiques can be found on the nearby rue de l’Apport, place des Merciers, and place des Cordeliers.

CANCALE

86 km (54 miles) northwest of Rennes via N137 and D210.

Nothing says Brittany like seafood and nothing says seafood like this fishing village, one of the most picturesque in the region. Renowned for its offshore bancs d’huîtres (oyster beds), Cancale has countless quayside eateries where you can slurp down these magnificent mollusks, and at the Château Richeux (a nearby culinary mecca) you can enjoy them as part of a full-on seafood feast. If your interest is more academic, learn how oysters are “farmed” at the Musée de la Ferme Marine.

Getting Here

Trains from Rennes (50 mins, €13.30) travel to La Gouesnière, and from there you can proceed by bus to Cancale; buses from St-Malo also make the 30-minute trip in multiple times per day.

Visitor Information

Cancale Tourist Office. | 44 rue du Port | 02–99–89–63–72 | www.cancale-tourisme.fr.

EXPLORING

Musée de la Ferme Marine (Sea Farm Museum).

Just south of town, this museum explains everything you ever wanted to know about farming oysters and has a display of 1,500 different types of shells. | L’Aurore | 02–99–89–69–99 | www.ferme-marine.com | €7 | July–mid-Sept., daily 10–6; mid-Sept.–June, weekdays 2–5; guided 1-hr tours in English, July–mid-Sept., daily at 2.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Château Richeux.

HOTEL | Retired superstar-chef Olivier Roellinger and his wife Jane still preside over their family’s luxurious hotel empire, which includes the beautiful, castellated, 1920s waterfront Château Richeux. The rooms are sumptuously appointed, large, and airy, with a voluptuous mix of the modern and the antique. Readers rave about Le Coquillage, the hotel’s Michelin-starred bistro, which specializes in local oysters and seafood platters served up in a relaxed, cozy atmosphere—the weekday lunch menu is good value for money ($$$). The Richeux is built on the ruins of the Du Guesclin family’s 11th-century château, 5 km (3 miles) south of Cancale, and is surrounded by a “Celtic garden.” Request one of the rooms with large bay windows, which have stunning views of Mont-St-Michel. Several miles away are two more private adjuncts to the Château, also overseen by the Roellingers: Les Rimains, with four guest rooms set in a very handsome Breton stone house, perched over Cancale’s harbor; and Gîtes Marins, with two airy, almost Cape Cod–style seaside vacation houses fit for several people. Pros: famous cuisine; picturesque and quiet setting. Cons: isolated for those seeking crowds; breakfast is an additional €24. | Rooms from: €220 | Le Point du Jour, St-Méloir des Ondes | 02–99–89–64–76 | www.maisons-de-bricourt.com | 13 rooms | Closed mid-Jan.–mid-Feb. and 1st 2 wks of Mar. | No meals.

SHOPPING

Grain de Vanille.

Sublime tastes of Brittany—salted butter caramels, fruity sorbets, rare honeys, and heirloom breads—are sold in upper Cancale at the Roellingers’s Grain de Vanille. Tables beckon, so why not sit a spell and enjoy a cup of “Mariage Frères” tea and—Brittany in a bite—some cinnamon-orange-flavored malouine cookies? | 12 pl. de la Victoire | 02–23–15–12–70.

Les Entrepôts Épices-Roellinger.

Monsieur Roellinger’s newest addition to his culinary empire, Les Entrepôts Épices-Roellinger, is dedicated to the exotic spices he personally searches the world to find. In addition to individual spice, it stocks exotic peppers, fleur de sel, choice vanillas, and the acclaimed owner’s signature spice blends—such as Poudre Curry Corsaire (for mussels and shellfish) and Poudre du Vent (for squab or cream sauces). TIP There’s now a branch in St-Malo. | 1 rue Duguesclin | 02–23–15–13–91 | www.maisons-de-bricourt.com.

ST-MALO

23 km (14 miles) west of Cancale via coastal D201.

Thrust out into the sea and bound to the mainland only by tenuous man-made causeways, romantic St-Malo has built a reputation as a breeding ground for phenomenal sailors. Many were fishermen, but others—most notably Jacques Cartier, who claimed Canada for King Francis I in 1534—were New World explorers. Still others were corsairs, “sea dogs” paid by the French crown to harass the Limeys across the Channel: legendary ones like Robert Surcouf and Duguay-Trouin helped make St-Malo rich through their pillaging, in the process earning it the nickname “the pirates’ city.” The St-Malo you see today isn’t quite the one they called home because a weeklong fire in 1944, kindled by retreating Nazis, wiped out nearly all of the old buildings. Restoration work was more painstaking than brilliant, but the narrow streets and granite houses of the Vieille Ville were satisfactorily recreated, enabling St-Malo to regain its role as a busy fishing port, seaside resort, and tourist destination. The ramparts that help define this city figuratively and literally are authentic, and the flames also spared houses along rue de Pelicot in the Vieille Ville. Battalions of tourists invade this quaint part of town in summer, so arrive offseason if you want to avoid crowds.

Getting Here

The rail station (a 15-minute walk from the Old Town walls) receives more than a dozen daily trains from Rennes. Buses based at the gare routière, immediately outside the walls, link St-Malo to Dinard (30 mins), Cancale (30 mins), Dinan (55 mins), Rennes (2 hrs), and Mont-St-Michel in Normandy (1 hr, 15 mins). April to November, ferries operated by the Compagnie Corsaire (www.compagniecorsaire.com) also carry passengers to Dinard (10 mins, €7.80 return).

Visitor Information

St-Malo Tourist Office. | Esplanade St-Vincent | 08–25–13–52–00 €0.15/min | www.saint-malo-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale St-Vincent (Saint-Malo Cathedral).

Originally founded in the 12th century, the Cathédrale St-Vincent represents an eclectic range of architectural styles. Inside you can pay homage to Jacques Cartier—who set sail from St-Malo in 1534 on a voyage during which he would discover the St. Lawrence River and claim what is now Québec in his King’s name—at his tomb. | 12 rue Saint-Benoist | 02–99–40–82–31 | rennes.catholique.fr/?cathedrale-st-vincent-de-st-malo | Daily 9–6.

Château (Town History Museum).

At the edge of the ramparts sits a 15th-century château, its keep and watchtowers commanding an impressive view of the harbor and coastline. It contains the Musée d’Histoire de la Ville, devoted to the great figures—from the founder of French Canada, Jacques Cartier, to Châteaubriand, “Father of Romanticism”—who have touched local history; plus the Galerie Quic-en-Grogne, a tower museum that uses waxworks to conjure up various episodes from St-Malo’s past. | Hôtel de Ville, Quai St-Vincent | 02–99–40–71–57 | www.ville-st-malo.fr | €6 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–12:30 and 2–6; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–6.

Fort National.

Lying offshore and accessible by causeway at low tide only, the “Bastille of Brittany” is a massive fortress with a dungeon constructed in 1689 by military-engineering genius Sébastien de Vauban. Thirty-five minute tours commence at the drawbridge (an English text is available). | 06–72–46–66–26 | www.fortnational.com | €5 | Mid-Apr.–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–1 and 2–6 (depending on tides; see website).

Ile du Grand Bé.

Five hundred yards offshore is the Ile du Grand Bé, a small island housing the somber military tomb of the great Romantic writer Viscount René de Chateaubriand, who was born in St-Malo. The islet can be reached by a causeway at low tide only.

Ramparts.

St-Malo’s imposing stone ramparts have withstood the pounding of the Atlantic since the 12th century. They were considerably enlarged and modified in the 18th century, and now extend from the château for almost 2 km (1 mile) around the Vieille Ville—known as intra-muros (within walls). The views from them are stupendous, especially at high tide. TIP Look for the statues of celebrated explorer Jacques Cartier and swashbuckling corsair Robert Surcouf. The latter, a hero of many daring 18th-century raids on the British navy, is eternally wagging an angry finger over the waves at England.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Chalut.

SEAFOOD | The reputation of this small Michelin-starred restaurant with a nautical theme has grown since chef Jean-Philippe Foucat decided to emphasize fresh seafood. A favorite with French vacationers for its ample portions, the succinct menus change as frequently as the catch of the day. Try the sautéed John Dory with langoustines and asparagus, or the scallops and white truffles in walnut oil. | Average main: €29 | 8 rue de la Corne-de-Cerf | 02–99–56–71–58 | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues.

Le Saint-Placide.

MODERN FRENCH | This sleek, modern dining room has managed to garner serious accolades—not to mention a Michelin star—in a town where culinary talent is in no short supply. Chef Luc Mobihan’s cuisine brilliantly blends flavors to draw out the intrinsic qualities of local meat and seafood without overpowering it. Lobster and bacon risotto is both rich and light, and langoustine ravioli with coriander and parmesan literally melts in the mouth. With three prix-fixe menus to choose from, diners have the pleasure of sampling a range of dishes. | Average main: €34 | 6 pl. du Poncel | 02–99–81–70–73 | www.st-placide.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon., Tues., last 2 wks of Nov.

Beaufort.

HOTEL | A gracious welcome and infinite sea views greet you at this beachfront hotel, handsomely accented with a terra-cotta facade and stylish mansard roof. Tastefully decorated in pale earth tones, the guest rooms are bright, comfortable, and meant to harmonize with the sea and sky just outside your window or private terrace, should you be lucky enough to nab one of the six on offer; bathrooms are petite but modern and well equipped. Although meals are limited to a bountiful complimentary breakfast, a lovely café-bar area, overlooking an expanse of beach and sea, offers wines, teas, and coffees throughout the day. For active types, the famed La Digue promenade just in front is ideal for an early morning jog along the beach. Pros: lovely facade; a few minutes’ ride to the intra-muros Old Town and walking distance to good restaurants and shops. Cons: rooms are on the small side and not all face the water. | Rooms from: €165 | 25 Chaussée du Sillon | 02–99–40–99–99 | www.hotel-beaufort.com | 22 rooms | Breakfast.

Elizabeth.

HOTEL | Done up with impressive style, this 17th-century town house, built into the ancient city walls and near the Porte St-Louise, is a little gem of sophistication in touristy St-Malo. The lobby welcomes with large sash windows, 400-year-old wood beams, and comfy mod furniture. Downstairs, breakfast is served in a majestic cellar with ancient stone walls and beams; upstairs, five floors of guest rooms in “Les Armateurs” attempt to channel the spirit of the fabled privateer Robert Surcouf with the use of antique Breton chairs and armoires. The most spacious rooms are on the top floor: No. 509 has a fine view of the harbor, No. 510 looks out over the intra-muros Old Town. Next door, “Les Skippers” is a smaller abode with north-facing rooms and a more modern look. Pros: central; good value; breakfast included. Cons: hard to park; big difference between bland rooms and stylish suites. | Rooms from: €97 | 2 rue des Cordiers | 02–99–56–24–98 | www.saintmalo-hotel-elizabeth.com | 17 rooms | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Bar de l’Univers.

If you ever wanted to sip a drink in a pirate’s-lair setting, this is your chance. | 12 pl. Chateaubriand | 02–99–40–89–52 | www.hotel-univers-saintmalo.com.

Festival de Musique Sacrée.

July and August bring a month-long religious music festival, the Festival de Musique Sacrée. | 06–08–31–99–93 | www.festivaldemusiquesacree-stmalo.com.

Folklores du Monde.

The city hosts a weeklong festival of world folk music and dance in July. | 02–99–40–42–50 | www.saint-malo-tourisme.com.

La Belle Époque.

A popular hangout for all ages, La Belle Époque rages until the wee hours. | 11 rue de Dinan | 02–99–40–82–23.

L’Éscalier Club.

Ask town residents and many will say this is the best place for dancing the night away. | Rue de la Buzardière | 02–99–81–65–56 | www.escalier.fr.

Théâtre Chateaubriand.

In summer, assorted performances are staged at the Théâtre Chateaubriand. | 6 rue du Grout-de-St-Georges | 02–99–40–18–30.

SHOPPING

Join other browsers at the bustling outdoor market held in the streets of Old St-Malo every Tuesday and Friday.

DINARD

13 km (8 miles) west of St-Malo via Rance Bridge.

The most elegant resort town on this stretch of the Brittany coast, Dinard enjoys a picture-book perch on the Rance Estuary opposite the walled town of St-Malo. Toward the end of the 19th century, when sea air became a fashionable “cure,” the English aristocracy arrived en masse. As a result, what started out as a small fishing port soon became a seaside mecca with lavish Belle Époque villas (more than 400 still dot the town and shoreline), grand hotels, and a bustling casino. Although a number of modern establishments punctuate the landscape, Dinard still retains something of an Edwardian tone. The town’s natural beauty remains intact, too: make the most it by strolling along the narrow promenade or heading down to the pointe de la Vicomté, at Dinard’s southern tip, where the cliffs offer panoramic views across the Baie du Prieuré and Rance Estuary.

Getting Here

April to November, a ferry operated by Compagnie Corsaire (www.compagniecorsaire.com) links St-Malo and Dinard (10 mins, €7.80 return); the towns are 30 minutes apart by bus.

Visitor Information

Dinard Tourist Office. | 2 bd. Féart | 02–99–46–94–12 | www.ot-dinard.com.

EXPLORING

Promenade du Clair de Lune.

Hugging the seacoast on its way toward the English Channel, the Promenade du Clair de Lune passes in front of the small jetty used by boats crossing to St-Malo. In Dinard, the road weaves along the shore and is adorned with luxuriant palm trees and mimosa blooms, which, from July to the end of September, are illuminated at dusk by spotlights; strollers are serenaded with recorded music. The promenade really hits its stride as it rounds the Pointe du Moulinet and heads toward the sandy Plage du Prieuré, named after a priory that once stood here. River meets sea in a foaming mass of rock-pounding surf: use caution as you walk along the slippery path to the calm shelter of the Plage de l’Écluse, an inviting sandy beach bordered by the casino and numerous stylish hotels. The coastal path picks up on the west side of Plage de l’Écluse, ringing the Pointe de la Malouine and the Pointe des Étêtés before arriving at the Plage de St-Énogat.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Didier Méril.

MODERN FRENCH | Nudging right up to the beach in Dinard’s historic center, this chic restaurant has both gourmet fare and fabulous water views. Chef Méril takes his inspiration from the local bounty: fresh-from-the-sea dishes, such as salty-sweet Cancale oysters, fricassée de langoustines, and trilogie de poisson noble with lobster coulis vie with Breton specialties, like deboned squab dressed in foie gras. An impressive wine list, with 450 wines and digestifs from every region imaginable, satisfies the most discerning connoisseur. In warm weather, the seaside terrace is a fine place to enjoy a frosty glass of champagne or an apéro. If you feel inclined to linger, onsite lodging is available in six stylish rooms that come with some endearing quirks. For example, the top floor’s room No. 6 offers spectacular ocean vistas from the bathtub, which is smack in the center of the room. | Average main: €32 | 1 pl. du Général de Gaulle | 02–99–46–95–74 | www.restaurant-didier-meril.com | Reservations essential | Wed. Oct.–Mar.; mid-Nov.–mid-Dec.

Manoir de Rigourdaine.

B&B/INN | Between Dinard and St.-Malo on the beautiful Rance estuary, Patrick Van Valenberg’s renovated country estate provides exceptional comfort inside and great views outside, courtesy of its promontory perch. Medieval Dinan is 10 minutes away by car, the beaches of Dinard are 15, St.-Malo is 20, and looming Mont-Saint-Michel is 40, making le manoir an ideal base for exploring Brittany’s Emerald Coast. Rooms are tasteful, many with timbered ceilings; and the bar, lounge, and terraces ensure that opportunities for relaxation are ample. Pros: wonderful view, great ambience, friendly service, above average breakfast included. Cons: no restaurant; two-night minimum stay. | Rooms from: €97 | Rigourdaine | Plouër-sur-Rance | 02–96–86–89–96 | www.hotel-rigourdaine.fr | 19 rooms | Closed Nov.–Mar. | Breakfast.

Printania.

HOTEL | Replete with verandas, charmingly folkloric Breton wood carvings, and a low-key Napoléon III vibe, Le Printania boasts a sweet location right on Dinard’s Clair de Lune promenade. Many of the guest rooms face the water, with “the pirates’ city”—St-Malo—looming in the distance; they’re furnished with regional touches, including original paintings, rather than prints, of local scenes. lThe best ones have a balcony (ask for No. 101, 102, 211, or 311 or the more recently renovated 100, 104 or 320). Seafood and regional dishes are served in the riotously colorful waterfront dining room by waitresses in regional costume. Pros: friendly staff; tasteful rooms; full board plan entices, thanks to tempting food. Cons: some rooms lack a view. | Rooms from: €169 | 5 av. George V | 02–99–46–13–07 | www.printaniahotel.com | 55 rooms | All meals.

Villa Reine-Hortense.

HOTEL | All the Napoléon-III glamour of 19th-century-resort France is yours when you stay at this folie—a villa built by the Russian Prince Vlassov in homage to his “queen,” Hortense de Beauharnais (daughter of Napoléon’s beloved Joséphine and mother to Emperor Napoléon III). A magical grand salon topped with a trompe-l’oeil treillage, guest rooms with soaring, fairy-tale beds crowned with Empire-style canopies, and glamorous beach views are just some of the delights on tap here. The lucky guest who lands Room 4 will even get to bathe in Queen Hortense’s own silver-plated bathtub. Pros: high-style paradise; intimate; quirky. Cons: a bit “de trop.” | Rooms from: €168 | 19 rue de la Malouine | 02–99–46–54–31 | www.villa-reine-hortense.com | 8 rooms | Closed Oct.–mid-Apr. | All meals.

NIGHTLIFE

Casino.

The main nightlife activity in town is at the casino. | 4 bd. du Président-Wilson | 02–99–16–30–30 | www.lucienbarriere.com.

Clair de Lune.

During July and August, stretches of the Clair de Lune promenade become a nighttime son-et-lumière wonderland, thanks to spotlights and recorded music.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Wishbone Club.

For windsurfing, wander over to the Wishbone Club. | Plage de l’Écluse | 02–99–88–15–20 | www.wishbone-club-dinard.com.

Yacht Club.

Boats can be rented from the Yacht Club. | Promenade du Clair de Lune | 02–99–46–14–32 | www.yacht-club-dinard.fr.

PAIMPOL

104 km (65 miles) west of Dinan via N176, N12, and D786.

Paimpol is one of the liveliest fishing ports in the area and a good base for exploring the pink-granite rocks that have made this part of the coast famous. The town itself has a maze of narrow streets edged with shops, restaurants, and souvenir boutiques—all of which seem to inevitably lead to the harbor. Today most fish are caught in the Channel, but fishermen once unloaded their catch from far-off seas here. For centuries, they sailed to Newfoundland each spring to harvest cod—a long and perilous journey; their endeavors are still honored annually on the third Sunday in July during the Fête des Terres-Neuvas, a celebration of the Breton fleet’s traditional return from those New World fishing grounds.

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Getting Here

Six trains per day leave Rennes for Paimpol via Guingamp (2 hrs, 10 mins; €22.60); buses will get you here from St.-Malo or Dinard for €2.

Visitor Information

Paimpol Tourist Office. | Pl. de la République | 02–96–20–83–16 | www.paimpol-goelo.com.

WHERE TO STAY

Le K’Loys.

HOTEL | Built in the late 19th century for a prominent ship owner, this picturesque stone house by Paimpol’s main quay overlooks the sailboat-stocked marina, and most of the 17 rooms have water views. If you’re lucky enough to nab No. 6, breakfast can be enjoyed on your own flower-bedecked balcony; if you prefer to catch some moonbeams, the Capitaine room offers a glass ceiling and splendid views from the bed. Although this family-run hotel focuses mostly on comfort and coziness rather than luxury, accommodations are attractively decorated with traditional Breton touches, including classic armoires. The L’Islandais restaurant-crêperie, in an old cod fisherman’s house, offers traditional Breton fare, including a bargain set menu. Pros: free parking and Wi-Fi; easy walk to the beach and Old Town. Cons: some rooms lack a view; wallpaper may prove overwhelming. | Rooms from: €102 | 21 quai Morand | 02–96–20–40–01 | www.k-loys.com | 17 rooms | Breakfast.

TRÉBEURDEN

46 km (27 miles) west of Paimpol via D786 and D65.

Trébeurden is one of the highlights of the Côtes d’Armor. A pleasant fishing village that’s popular with summer vacationers, it offers access to the rosy-hue cliffs of the corniche Bretonne. Look at the profile of dramatic rocks off the coast near Trégastel and Perros-Guirec and use your imagination to see La Tête de Mort (Death’s Head), La Tortoise, Le Sentinel, and Le Chapeau de Wellington (Wellington’s Hat). The coastal scene changes with the sunlight and with the ebb and flow of tides that are strong enough to leave formerly-floating boats stranded on the dry sea floor.

Getting Here

Buses from Lannion, a town 12 km (7 miles) inland, travel to Trébeurden several times a day, with stops in Perros-Guirec, Trestraou beach, and neighboring Ploumanac’h (35 mins).

Visitor Information

Trébeurden Tourist Office. | Pl. de Crec’h hery | 02–96–23–51–64 | www.tourisme-trebeurden.com.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Cité des Télécoms.

Five kilometers (3 miles) east of Trébeurden is the Parc du Radôme, site of the giant white radar dome, whose 340-ton antenna captured the first live TV satellite transmission from the United States to France in July 1962. Today the sphere houses the Cité des Télécoms retracing the history of telecommunications back to the first telegraph in 1792, and featuring interactive exhibits on telecom’s newest innovations. A spectacular sound-and-light show involves multicolor lasers and more than 200 video projectors. The site also includes one of Europe’s largest planetariums and a children’s discovery park, Le Jardin des Sciences. | Pleumeur-Bodou | 02–96–46–63–80 | www.leradome.com | €7.50 | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Apr.–June, and Sept., weekdays 10–6, weekends 2–6; Oct.–Dec., Feb., and Mar. some weekends.

Sentier des Douaniers.

The famous seaside footpath, the Sentier des Douaniers, starts up at the west end of the Trestraou beach in the resort town of Perros-Guirec, 3 km (2 miles) east of Trébeurden; from there this beautifully manicured, fence-lined, and gorgeously scenic path provides a two-hour walk eastward, through fern forests, past cliffs and pink granite boulders to the pretty beach at Ploumanac’h. If you keep your eye out, you might even spot one of the mythical, 900-year-old Korrigans—native sprites with pointed ears, beards, and hooves, who come out at night from seaside grottoes to dance around fires. From Perros-Guirec you can take a boat trip out to the Sept Iles, a group of seven islets that are bird sanctuaries. On a hillside perch above Ploumanac’h is the village of La Clarté, home to the little Chapelle Notre Dame de la Clarté (Place de la Chapelle), built of local pink granite and decorated with 14 stations of the cross painted by the master of the Pont-Aven school, Maurice Denis. During the Pardon of la Clarté (August 15), a bishop preaches an outdoor mass for the Virgin Mary, village girls wear Trégor costumes, and the statue of the Virgin Mary wears a gold crown (she wears a fake one for the rest of the year). On Ploumanac’h’s pleasant beach, Plage de la Bastille, you’ll find the Oratoire de St-Guirec, a rose-granite chapel lodged in the sand with other rocks; facing the beach is the neo-medieval, 19th-century Château de Costaeres, where Henryk Sienkiewicz wrote Quo Vadis. Unfortunately, the magical castle-by-the-sea—whose image graces many postcards—is private property (you can, however, rent it for €15,000 per week.) | www.perros-guirec.fr.

WHERE TO STAY

Manoir de Lan Kerellec.

HOTEL | The beauty of the coastline is embraced by this Relais & Châteaux hotel, where guest rooms are far more than just comfortable; long and cruise-liner-low, the renovated 19th-century Breton manor house has been outfitted with dramatic windows—plate-glass, round, panoramic—so as to frame stirring vistas of the endless sea and the cliffs of the Côte de Granit Rose (all rooms have sea views and some have terraces). The restaurant, with a wood-beam ceiling inspired by a hull, has a delightful model of the St-Yves ship suspended from its ceiling. It mostly serves seafood, but the roast lamb is also good. Pros: great views; comfy rooms. Cons: pricey; restaurant only serves lunch from Thursday to Sunday. | Rooms from: €287 | 11 allée Centrale | 02–96–15–00–00 | www.lankerellec.com | 19 rooms | Closed Nov.–mid-Mar. | Some meals.

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Ste-Anne-la-Palud | Douarnenez | Quimper | Concarneau | Pont-Aven | Belle-Ile-en-Mer | Carnac | Auray | Vannes | Lorient | La Baule | Nantes

What Brittany offers in the way of the sea handsomely makes up for its shortage of mountain peaks and passes. Hundreds of miles of sawtooth coastline reveal the Atlantic Ocean in every mood and form—from the peaceful cove where waders collect seashells to the treacherous bay with unpredictable crosscurrents; from the majestic serenity of the breakers rolling across La Baule’s miles of golden-sand beaches to the savage fury of the gigantic waves that fling their force against jagged rocks 340 dizzy feet below the cliffs of pointe du Raz.

Consisting of the territory lying west of Saint-Brieuc to the Atlantic coast a short distance east of Vannes, Lower Brittany contains in abundance all things Breton, including many of the pardons and other colorful religious ceremonies that take place hereabouts. As for bright lights, Rennes (the student-fueled mind of Brittany) gives way to poets and painters, bringing a refreshing breeze to the historical heaviness of the region. On the Atlantic coast, Nantes—part of Brittany until regional boundaries were redrawn in the 1940s, placing it in the Pays de la Loire—is an industrial port that pumps the economy of the region and provides a bracing swig of daily life. Head inland to find a landscape studded with bent trees and craggy rocks that look like they’ve been bewitched by Merlin in a bad mood.

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STE-ANNE-LA-PALUD

136 km (82 miles) southwest of Trébeurden via D767 and D787.

One of the biggest draws on the Breton events calendar is the celebration of a religious festival known as a village pardon, replete with banners, saintly statues, a procession, women in folk costume, a feast, and hundreds of attendees. Each year, the seaside village of Ste-Anne-la-Palud hosts one of the finest and most authentic on the last Sunday in August.

Getting Here

More than a dozen trains daily go from Vannes to Quimper (1 hr, 20 mins; €20.70); from there, catch a bus onward to Ste-Anne-la-Palud (30 mins, €2).

WHERE TO STAY

Hôtel de la Plage.

HOTEL | Nestled in a cove on a quiet strip of sandy beach on the Bay of Douarnenez, this mansion, with its sturdy round tower, is a remote retreat perfect for long, restorative walks; some of the comfortably furnished guest rooms face the water, as does the glass-front restaurant, where reservations are essential. After a seafood starter (bass tartare, oysters), try the grilled lobster “Sainte Anne,” the turbot with marrow, or the fillet of beef “Limousin.” Pros: Relais & Châteaux taste; waterfront setting; top-rank restaurant; spa facilities Cons: very expensive; rather formal. | Rooms from: €290 | 02–98–92–50–12 | www.plage.com | 24 rooms, 4 suites | Closed Jan.–Mar. | Some meals.

DOUARNENEZ

14 km (8 miles) south of Ste-Anne-la-Palud.

Douarnenez is a quaint old fishing town with quayside paths and zigzagging narrow streets. Boats come in from the Atlantic to unload their catches of mackerel, sardines, and tuna. Just offshore is the Ile Tristan, which is accessible on foot at low tide (guided tours only, €6), and across the Port-Rhu channel is Tréboul, a seaside resort town favored by French families.

Getting Here

Douarnenez is served by buses from Quimper (25 mins, €2).

Visitor Information

Douarnenez Tourist Office. | 1 rue du Dr. Mével | 02–98–92–13–35 | www.douarnenez-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Port-Musée (Port Museum).

The unique Port-Musée combines maritime-themed museum displays with open-air exhibits. Along the wharves you can visit the workshops of boat builders, sail makers, and other old-time craftspeople, then go aboard the historic trawlers, lobster boats, and barges anchored beside them. On the first weekend in May you can even sail on an antique fishing boat. | Pl. de l’Enfer | 02–98–92–65–20 | www.port-musee.org | €7.50 (€5.50 Quai museum only, Feb. and Mar.) | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Apr.–June, Sept., and Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10–12:30, 2–6; Feb. and Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10–12:30, 2–6 (Quai museum only).

WHERE TO STAY

Manoir de Moëllien.

HOTEL | Surrounded by extensive forested grounds, this textbook 17th-century granite manor, landmarked by a sturdy tower and filled with precious antiques, offers enviable lodgings; guest rooms vary greatly in size, but most have terraces overlooking the peaceful country garden. Another plus is its fine seafood restaurant (closed mid-November to March), which is reserved for guests only. Highlights on Chef Frédéric Abraham’s acclaimed menu include braised monkfish and homard grillé (grilled lobster). Pros: charming setting; historic atmosphere. Cons: out of the way; restaurant service can be offhand. | Rooms from: €96 | 12 km (7 miles) northeast of Douarnenez | Plonévez-Porzay | 02–98–92–50–40 | www.manoirmoellien.fr | 18 rooms | All meals.

Ty Mad.

HOTEL | This landmark hotel—frequented by artists and writers such as Picasso and Breton native Max Jacob in the 1920s—has been completely refitted with cool, light, modern furnishings that blend perfectly with its cove and beach setting. Guest rooms are not large, but 11 of them have great sea views. A garden now adorns the property, and a separate house has been outfitted with a kitchen for larger groups and longer stays. Vincent Jugeau’s menu, served in the glass-enclosed restaurant, focuses on fresh organic produce sourced from neighboring farms and fishing boats. Pros: delightful seaside setting; stylish modern interior. Cons: rooms are small and modestly equipped. | Rooms from: €140 | Plage St-Jean | 02–98–74–00–53 | www.hoteltymad.com | 15 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. | Some meals.

QUIMPER

22 km (14 miles) southeast of Douarnenez via D765.

Quimper (pronounced cam-pair) owes its strange name to its site at the confluence (kemper in Breton) of the Odet and Steir rivers. A traditional crowd-puller, its twisting streets and tottering medieval houses supply rich postcard material; lovers of decorative arts, however, head here because this is the home of Quimperware, one of the more famous variants of French hand-painted pottery. After learning about the prized collectible at the Musée de la Faïence, you can stroll through the Vieille Ville, ogle its immense 15th-century cathedral, then wander the surrounding shop-lined streets. Keep your camera handy—the ancient capital of the Cornouaille province is very photogenic.

Getting Here

The TGV travels here direct from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse five times per day (4 hrs, 30 mins; €67). Multiple daily trains also connect Quimper with Lorient (40 mins, €12.60), Vannes (1 hr, 20 mins; €20.70), and Nantes (2 hrs, 40 mins; €37.60). Frequent buses run to Concarneau (40 mins, €2).

Visitor Information

Quimper Tourist Office. | Pl. de la Résistance | 02–98–53–04–05 | www.quimper-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale St-Corentin.

Brittany’s second-largest cathedral (surpassed size-wise only by the one in Dol-de-Bretagne) is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture enlivened by luminous 15th-century stained glass. Legendary King Gradlon is represented on horseback just below the base of the spires, which are harmonious mid-19th-century additions to the medieval ensemble. The church interior remains very much in use by fervent Quimperois, giving the candlelit vaults a meditative air. Behind the cathedral is the stately Jardin de l’Évêché (Bishop’s Garden). | Pl. St-Corentin.

Musée de la Faïence (Earthenware Museum).

In the mid-18th century Quimper sprang to nationwide attention as a pottery manufacturing center. Normands, whose distinctive Rouennaise faïence was already famous, imported the techniques. But the Quimpérois customized them by replacing the pottery’s usual blue-and-white patterns with brighter Breton scenes depicting local life. Today’s colorful designs, based on floral arrangements and marine fauna, are still often hand-painted. To understand Quimper’s pottery-making past—and see more than 500 examples of “style Quimper”—take one of the guided tours at the Musée de la Faïence. | 14 rue Jean-Baptiste-Bousquet | 02–98–90–12–72 | www.musee-faience-quimper.com | €4.50 | Mid-Apr.–Sept., Mon.–Sat. 10–6.

Musée Départemental Breton (Brittany Regional Museum).

Local furniture, ceramics, and folklore top the bill at the Musée Départemental Breton. | 1 rue du Roi-Gradlon | 02–98–95–21–60 | www.museedepartementalbreton.fr | €4 (free, Sun. afternoons, Oct.–May) | June–Sept., daily 9–6; Jan.–May and Oct.–Dec., Tues.–Sat. 9–12:30 and 1:30–5, Sun. 2–5.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

More than 400 works by such masters as Rubens, Corot, and Picasso mingle with pretty landscapes from the local Gauguin-inspired Pont-Aven school in the Musée des Beaux-Arts, next to the cathedral. Of particular note is a fascinating series of paintings depicting traditional life in Breton villages. | 40 pl. St-Corentin | 02–98–95–45–20 | www.mbaq.fr | €5 (free, Sun. afternoons, Nov.–Mar) | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Apr.–June, Sept., and Oct., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–noon and 2–6; Nov.–Mar., Wed.–Sat. and Mon. 9:30–noon and 2–5:30, Sun. 2–5:30.

WHERE TO EAT

L’Ambroisie.

MODERN FRENCH | This cozy little Michelin-starred restaurant has soft-yellow walls, huge contemporary paintings, and different settings at every table. Chef Gilbert Guyon’s traditional yet nouvelle menu is seasonal; local products are chosen by hand or come from the restaurant’s garden. Highlights include a buckwheat galette crêpe stuffed with crab, grapefruit, and avocado; curried lobster with asparagus “cappuccino”; and xocopili-spiced roast pigeon. The homemade desserts—like the omelet Norvégienne with warm chocolate and nougat ice cream in meringue—are delicious. TIP Weekday menus are a bargain. | Average main: €28 | 49 rue Élie-Fréron | 02–98–95–00–02 | www.ambroisie-quimper.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues. No dinner Sun.

Le Comptoir des Tapas.

WINE BAR | Xavier Hamon, the owner of this compact épicerie and tapas bar in Quimper’s old covered market, had the novel idea of pairing delicacies from Spain and Brittany. An auspicious match, it turns out, as small plates of artisanal cured meats, like Iberico and chorizo, served à la planche with bread and spicy olive oil, go nicely with local specialties such as a velvety langoustine flan. With Spanish or French regional wines by the glass for as little as €3—and small plates starting at €4—it’s a great opportunity to experiment with pairings. Ah, but this is the point, non? | Average main: €12 | 16 quai de Steir, Halles St-François | 02–98–98–00–81 | Reservations not accepted | Tues.–Thurs. 10–2 and 5–7, Fri. and Sat. 9–7.

SHOPPING

Maison Breton.

Faïence and a wide selection of hand-painted pottery can be purchased at the Maison Breton. | 16 bis, rue du Parc | 02–98–95–34–13.

Rue du Parc.

The streets around the cathedral, especially Rue du Parc, are full of shops selling woolen goods (notably thick marine sweaters). Also keep an eye out for such typical Breton products as woven and embroidered cloth, brass and wood objects, puppets, dolls, and locally designed jewelry. When it comes to distinctive Breton folk costumes, Quimper is the best place to look.

CONCARNEAU

22 km (14 miles) southeast of Quimper via D783.

Concarneau may be an industrial town known for sardine packaging, but its 17th-century Vauban-designed Ville Close ranks among the most picturesque sites in Brittany.

Getting Here

Buses run here multiple times per day from Quimper (40 mins, €2) and Pont-Aven (45 mins, €2).

Visitor Information

Concarneau Tourist Office. | Quai d’Aiguillon | 02–98–97–01–44 | www.tourismeconcarneau.fr.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Keriolet.

Five miles away from Concarneau is the village of Beuzec-Conq, home to the Château de Keriolet. Walt Disney would have loved this fairy-tale, neo-Gothic extravaganza dating from the 19th century. Replete with gargoyles, storybook towers, and Flamboyant Gothic-style windows, this showpiece was constructed by the Comtesse de Chauveau, born Zenaide Narishkine Youssoupov, an imperial Russian princess who was niece to Czar Nicholas II (and related to Prince Youssoupov, famed assassin of Rasputin). Take one of the four daily guided tours through the Arms Room, folkloric kitchen, and grand salons. | Beuzec-Conq | 02–98–97–36–50 | www.chateaudekeriolet.com | €5.50 | June–Sept., Sun.–Fri. 10:30–1 and 2–6, Sat. 10:30–1.

Fodor’s Choice | Ville Close.

Sitting in the middle of Concarneau’s harbor, topped by a cupola-clock tower, and entered by way of a quaint drawbridge, the fortress-islet of the Ville Close is a particularly photogenic relic of medieval days. Its fortifications were further strengthened by the English under John de Montfort during the Breton War of Succession (1341–1364). Three hundred years later Sébastien de Vauban remodeled the ramparts into what you see today: a kilometer (half-mile) long expanse, with splendid views across the two harbors on either side. The Fête des Filets Bleus (Blue Net Festival), a weeklong folk celebration in which costumed Bretons whirl and dance to the wail of bagpipes, is held here during the second half of August. It is also home to the Musée de la Pêche (Maritime Museum). | Ramparts | 02–98–97–10–20 Museum | www.musee-peche.fr | Museum €4.50 | Museum: July and Aug., 10–7; Apr.–June, Sept., 10–6; Feb., Mar., Oct., and Nov., 10–12:30 and 2–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Les Sables Blancs.

HOTEL | One of the fine-white-sand beaches that distinguish the Morbihan coast serves as the perfect backdrop for this spare, modern hotel, which calls to mind a cruise ship. All accommodations have a terrace or balcony facing the sea, where guests can indulge in an ample Breton breakfast or simply enjoy a bracing breeze. One bright suite has enormous windows and a wraparound terrace that seems to jut out over the water; smaller digs, decorated in earth tones, have sleek bathrooms and every high-tech convenience. Another plus is the fine dining—with, what else, plenty of fresh seafood—offered either in the handsome dining room or, weather permitting, on a large sea-view terrace. Pros: miles of paths on the cliffs overlooking the water make for lovely walks; open year-round. Cons: the relentless crashing of waves can disturb light sleepers. | Rooms from: €130 | 45 rue des Sables Blancs | 02–98–50–10–12 | www.hotel-les-sables-blancs.com | 16 rooms, 4 suites | No meals.

PONT-AVEN

37 km (23 miles) east of Quimper via D783.

This lovely village sits astride the Aven River as it descends from the Montagnes Noires to the sea, turning the town’s mills along the way (there were once 14; now just a handful remain). A former artists’ colony, Pont-Aven is where Paul Gauguin lived before he headed off to the South Seas—and where he left dewy, sunlit Impressionism behind for a stronger, more linear style. After exploring the town, you can seek inspiration (as so many painters did) in the Bois d’Amour or cool off on a boat trip down the estuary.

Getting Here

There are no direct trains, but you can ride the rails to nearby Quimperlé and transfer to a bus for the 25-minute drive into town. Buses also arrive from Quimper (1 hr, 15 mins) and Concarneau (45 mins) several times a day. The last buses leave early in the evening, and service is limited on Sunday.

Visitor Information

Pont-Aven Tourist Office. | 5 pl. de l’Hôtel de Ville | 02–98–06–04–70 | www.pontaven.com.

EXPLORING

Bois d’Amour.

One glance at these leafy, light-dappled woods, a bit north of Pont-Aven’s town center, will make you realize why artists continue to come here. Past some meadows, just outside the Bois d’Amour, you can find Gauguin’s inspiration for his famous painting The Yellow Christ—a wooden crucifix in the secluded Chapelle de Trémalo (it’s privately owned but usually open 9–7). | 100 meters from town center, along opposite bank of river.

Moulin du Grand Poulguin.

Head to the Moulin du Grand Poulguin, a delightful setting in which to eat a crêpe or pizza on a terrace directly beside the flowing waters of the Aven River, in view of the footbridge. | 2 quai Théodore Botrel | 02–98–06–02–67 | www.moulin-pontaven.com.

Musée de Beaux-Arts.

The town’s art museum captures some of the history of the Pont-Aven School, whose adherents painted Breton landscapes in a bold yet dreamy style called Synthétisme. In addition to works by “member” artists—Paul Gauguin, Paul Sérusier, Maurice Denis, and Émile Bernard among them—the Musée de Beaux-Arts has a photography exhibit documenting the Pont-Aven School. Following extensive renovations, it slated to reopen in mid-2015. | Pl. de l’Hôtel-de-Ville | 02–98–06–14–43 | www.museepontaven.fr.

Gauguin and the Pont-Aven School

Surrounded by some of Brittany’s most beautiful countryside, Pont-Aven was a natural to become a “cité des artistes” in the heady days of Impressionism and Postimpressionism. It was actually the introduction of the railroad in the 19th century that put travel to Brittany in vogue, and it was here that Gauguin and other like-minded artists founded the noted Pont-Aven School. Inspired by the vibrant light, vivid colors and lovely vistas to be found here, they created Synthétisme, a painting style characterized by broad patches of pure color and strong symbolism, in revolt against the dominant Impressionist school back in Paris. Gauguin arrived in the summer of 1886, happy to find a place “where you can live on nothing” (Paris’s stock market had crashed and cost Gauguin his job). At Madame Gloanec’s boardinghouse, he welcomed a circle of painters to join him in his artistic quest for monumental simplicity and striking color.

Today Pont-Aven seems content to rest on its laurels. Although it’s labeled a “city of artists,” the galleries that line its streets display paintings that lack the unifying theme and common creative energy of the earlier works of art.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

La Taupinière.

MODERN FRENCH | At an airy roadside inn with an attractive garden, Guy Guilloux turns out a range of Breton specialties. Since the chef places a special emphasis on seafood, options might include a galette stuffed with spider crab, a langoustine flan, or a brochette de coquilles Saint-Jacques that’s been grilled on the large hearth in his open kitchen. For dessert, indulge without guilt on the light homemade rhubarb and strawberry compote. | Average main: €38 | Croissant St-André, 3 km (2 miles) west on Concarneau road | 02–98–06–03–12 | www.la-taupiniere.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Mon., Tues., and 1st half of Oct.

Fodor’s Choice | Domaine de Kerbastic.

HOTEL | This beautiful gated estate—a hotel only since 2008—served as the country getaway for generations of Princesses de Polignac and their eminent friends, including Stravinsky, Colette, and Proust. Each of the 15 rooms, decorated flawlessly, mixes family antiques with a modern aesthetic and makes playful reference to some of the more prominent guests and family members: picture the Cocteau room, with murals in the artist’s antic style, or the ravishing India-themed Marquise de Polignac room, with inlaid black-lacquer furnishings and sisal rugs. On chilly evenings a fire is laid in a charming salon downstairs—just the place to sip an apéro before an all-organic gourmet dinner, complete with greens from the estate’s kitchen garden. The extensive grounds are perfect for a promenade, with splendid box-hedge-lined gardens, ancient trees, and endless fields of wildflowers. Pros: everything done with exquisite taste; enormous marble bathrooms; historic vibe. Cons: somewhat off the beaten path; you can’t stay forever. | Rooms from: €190 | Rte. de Locmaria, 28 km (17 miles) southeast of Pont-Aven, off rte. E60 | Guidel | 02–97–65–98–01 | www.domaine-de-kerbastic.com | 15 rooms | Closed Jan. to mid-Feb. | Some meals.

La Chaumière Roz-Aven.

HOTEL | Partly built into a rock face on a bank of the Aven, this efficiently run hotel is a perfect blend of antique and modern—offering simple, clean rooms with 18th- and 19th-century-style touches. Choose from lodgings in two locations: the enchanting, 16th-century thatched “chaumière” house (four rooms) or the modern annex (10 rooms). There’s no restaurant onsite, but the property does have a tearoom and its bar serves tapas and other light fare. Pros: families welcome; rooms tastefully modernized. Cons: small rooms; rooms in annex lack character. | Rooms from: €78 | 11 quai Théodore-Botrel | 02–98–06–13–06 | www.hotelpontaven.com | 14 rooms | Closed Jan. | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Moulin de Rosmadec.

HOTEL | This pretty-as-a-picture, 15th-century stone watermill juts out above the rushing, rocky Aven River. Inside, atmospheric beamed ceilings, Breton stone fireplaces, and water views cast their spell. You not only see the water though—you can hear it splashing over the stones beneath your window; water also flows beneath the dining deck, where you can feast on the creations of a serious kitchen. Winning dishes at the restaurant (no dinner Sunday; closed Monday and mid-November to mid-December) include crab remoulade with smoked sea bass, coriander and lemon; herb-crusted roast Aveyron lamb with polenta frites and eggplant cavier, and lobster grillé Rosmadec. lDemand for the four gently priced, rooms is high—book early. Pros: great setting; great value. Cons: attic rooms can be stuffy in midsummer; restaurant reservations are essential. | Rooms from: €98 | Venelle de Rosmadec | 02–98–06–00–22 | www.moulinderosmadec.com | 4 rooms | Some meals.

BELLE-ILE-EN-MER

45 mins by boat from Quiberon, 78 km (52 miles) southeast of Pont-Aven.

Covering 84-square km (32-square miles), Belle-Ile is the largest of Brittany’s islands; and, as its name implies, it is beautiful. Being less commercialized than its mainland counterpart, Quiberon (a spa town with pearl-like beaches on the eastern side of the Quiberon Peninsula), Belle-Ile maintains a natural appeal. Monet created several famous paintings on the island, and the pristine terrain may tempt you set up an easel yourself.

Getting Here and Around

Ferries, which run hourly in July and August, connect Belle-Ile’s Le Palais with Quiberon’s Gare Maritime (45 mins, from €33 round-trip). Because of the cost and inconvenience involved in taking a vehicle over, it’s best to make the crossing as a foot passenger; you can then rent a car or (if you don’t mind hilly terrain) a bike on arrival.

Visitor Information

Belle-Ile-en-Mer Tourist Office. | Le Palais, Quai Bonnelle | 02–97–31–81–93 | www.belle-ile.com.

EXPLORING

Grand Phare (Great Lighthouse).

Built in 1835, the Grand Phare at Port Goulphar rises 275 feet above sea level and has one of the most powerful beacons in Europe, visible from 120 km (75 miles) across the Atlantic. If the keeper is available and you are feeling well rested, you may be able to climb to the top.

Grotte de l’Apothicairerie.

Continue on to the Grotte de l’Apothicairerie, which derives its name from the local cormorants’ nests, said to resemble apothecary bottles.

Sauzon.

From Le Palais head northwest to Sauzon, the prettiest fishing harbor on the island; from here you can see across to the Quiberon Peninsula, with its dramatic coastal cliffs and sea-lashed coves.

WHERE TO STAY

Castel Clara.

RESORT | Perched on a cliff overlooking the surf and the narrow Anse de Goulphar Bay, this ‘70s-era hotel was François Mitterrand’s address when he vacationed on Belle-Ile and it still retains presidential glamor, with its renowned spa, saltwater pool, and spectacular views. In the bright, airy restaurant, Chef Christophe Hardouin specializes in seafood, caught just offshore. The herb-crusted turbot and the line-caught sea bass are simple but delicious. Castel Clara’s expansive wooden-deck terrace is the perfect lounging spot for cocktails at sundown. Pros: great facilities; spectacular setting. Cons: impersonal service; hard to get to. | Rooms from: €255 | Port-Goulphar | Bangor | 02–97–31–84–21 | www.castel-clara.com | 59 rooms, 4 suites | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Dec. | Some meals.

Château Bordeneo.

B&B/INN | More of a large-scale house than a château, this imposing residence has been transformed by Françoise and Jean-Luc Duplessy into a handsome, fully modernized chambres d’hôtes within walking distance of the beach. Two acres of manicured gardens provide a lovely setting for the hotel’s two grand terraces, which offer on-a-clear-day-you-can-see-forever views over the coastal landscape. Guest rooms are pleasingly spare and done up in tasteful earth colors, each with a private sitting room and wonderfully spacious bathroom. To accentuate the spalike feel, the large, heated indoor pool is open daytime and evening, and massage appointments can be made. All in all, a perfect prescription for peace and quiet. Pros: excellent breakfast included; good value. Cons: pool open April to October only. | Rooms from: €174 | Le Palais | 02–97–31–80–77 | www.chateau-bordeneo.fr | 5 rooms | Breakfast.

THE OUTDOORS

Roue Libre.

The ideal way to get around to the island’s 90 spectacular beaches is by bike. The best place to rent two-wheelers (and cars—this is also the island’s Avis outlet) is at Roue Libre in Le Palais neighborhood. | 6 quai Jacques Le Blanc, Le Palais | 02–97–31–49–81 | www.belle-ile-evasion.com.

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CARNAC

19 km (12 miles) northeast of Quiberon via D768/D781.

At the north end of Quiberon Bay, Carnac is known for its expansive beaches and its ancient stone monuments, “standing stones” erected by Brittany’s pre-Celtic people 6,500 years ago.

Getting Here

Catch a bus from Quiberon (40 mins, €3.80) or take advantage of the SNCF’s rail-road combination, which involves a train from Vannes to Auray followed by a bus to Carnac (1 hr, 25 mins, €8.30).

Visitor Information

Carnac Tourist Office. | 74 av. des Druides | 02–97–52–13–52 | www.ot-carnac.fr.

EXPLORING

Menhirs.

Dating from around 4500 BC, Carnac’s menhirs remain as mysterious in origin as their English contemporaries at Stonehenge, although religious beliefs and astronomy were doubtless an influence. The 2,395 monuments that make up the three alignements—Kermario, Kerlescan, and Ménec—form the largest megalithic site in the world, and are positioned with astounding astronomical accuracy in semicircles and parallel lines over about a kilometer (half a mile). The site, just north of the town, is fenced off for protection, and you can examine the menhirs up close only from October through March; in summer you must join a €6 guided tour (some are in English). | 02–97–52–29–81 Maison des Mégalithes | www.carnac.monuments-nationaux.fr.

Maison des Mégalithes.

This visitor center explains the menhirs’ history and significance, plus it offers an excellent selection of interesting books in all languages, as well as DVDs and regional gifts. | Alignements du Ménec | 02–97–52–29–81 | July and Aug., daily 9:30–7:30; May and June, daily 9–6; Sept.–Apr., daily 10–5.

Tumulus de St-Michel.

Carnac also has smaller-scale dolmen ensembles and three tumuli (mounds or barrows), including the 390-foot-long, 38-foot-high Tumulus de St-Michel, topped by a small chapel with views of the rock-strewn countryside.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Locguénolé.

HOTEL | According to legend, Saint Guénolé (for whom the 19th-century château was named) took refuge on this spot while fleeing the devil, and it remains a grand retreat—after all, it’s part of a sweeping 250-acre estate with lush garden and stunning water views. On the main floor, four stately salons remain exactly as they were when the family—who still maintain the hotel—lived here; and the guest rooms carry on the regal feel with divine architectural details and attractive antiques. Superb gourmet meals can be enjoyed on several outdoor terraces, although the candlelit, tapestried, and Michelin-starred dining room is hard to beat. For guests seeking a more virtuous itinerary, a “fasting” package offers every possible diversion, including walks through the estate’s ancient forests, sailing, mountain biking, swimming in a pool surrounded by rose gardens, tennis, and a full range of spa treatments. Pros: peace and quiet reign; lovely setting; large bathrooms are all in marble. Cons: out of the way (but well worth the detour). | Rooms from: €189 | Rte. de Port-Louis, 25 km (16 miles) south of Carnac, direction Hennebont, Kervignac | 02–97–76–76–76 | www.chateau-de-locguenole.com | 18 rooms, 4 suites | Closed Jan.–mid-Feb. | All meals.

Hôtel Tumulus.

HOTEL | Dramatic views over Carnac and Quiberon Bay, coupled with a prime location just beneath the famous Tumulus de St-Michel, have been big draws for this modest, family-run hotel from its inception in the 1930s. Many of the comfortable, well-equipped rooms have views to the bay, and those in back overlook the Tumulus chapel. A small spa offers a surprising number of treatments—from thalassotherapy to seaweed wraps and massage—with good-value packages available. Weary travelers can steep in the outdoor hot tub or take an invigorating swim in the pool. An airy dining room with lovely views offers excellent fare (including reasonable prix-fixe menus, replete with fresh seafood) and a sophisticated wine list. Pros: close to Carnac’s menhirs; tasteful interiors. Cons: some rooms on the small side; some with less-than-pristine carpets. | Rooms from: €175 | Chemin de Tumulus | 02–97–52–08–21 | www.hotel-tumulus.com | 23 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Feb. | Breakfast.

AURAY

16 km (10 miles) north of Carnac via D119/D768, 38 km (24 miles) southeast of Lorient.

The ancient town of Auray grew up along the banks of the Loch River and is best admired from the Promenade du Loch overlooking the quayside. Cross the river to explore the old, cobbled streets of the St-Goustan neighborhood.

Getting Here

TGV and local TER trains make the 15-minute hop from Vannes to Auray 22 times daily (€4.30). Being on the N165 highway means Auray is also serviced by buses from throughout France.

WHERE TO EAT

La Closerie de Kerdrain.

MODERN FRENCH | Ebullient chef Fernando Corfmat presides over the kitchen in this charming 17th-century town-center manor draped in wisteria. His seasonal menus highlight fresh ingredients prepared in innovative ways and served with panache: poached wild sea bass with pistachios in a vinaigrette passion, a scallop and truffle carpaccio, or Val d’Anjou pigeon with sautéed duck liver. When available, the sweet-and-sour lemon pie with a salad of oranges in mango juice is the perfect way to end the meal. | Average main: €36 | 20 rue Louis-Billet | 02–97–56–61–27 | www.lacloseriedekerdrain.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. (and Tues. in winter). No dinner Sun.

THE OUTDOORS

Navix-Vedettes du Golfe.

Take a cruise down the Auray River on the Navix-Vedettes du Golfe; along the way you’ll discover the lovely 16th-century Château du Plessis-Kaer and the tiny, tidal fishing port of Bono tucked between the steep banks and the oyster beds of the Pô estuary. | 08–25–13–21–00 €0.15 per min | www.navix.fr.

VANNES

35 km (20 miles) east of Carnac via D768, 108 km (67 miles) southwest of Rennes.

Scene of the declaration of unity between France and Brittany in 1532, Vannes is one of the few towns in the region to have been spared damage during World War II. That makes its Vielle Ville (Old Town), where many of the prettiest sights are concentrated, particularly appealing. The ramparts crumble evocatively under ivy blankets, and each gateway has a character all its own. Visit the 16th-century cathedral; browse the antiques shops in the pedestrian streets around pretty Place Henri-IV; and then take a boat trip around the scenic Golfe du Morbihan.

Getting Here

Direct TGVs from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse leave for Vannes eight times daily (3 hrs, 20 mins; €25-€65). Ten trains daily (many with a change at Redon) link Vannes to Nantes (1 hr, 30 mins; €22.80); frequent trains also link it to Lorient (35 mins, €10.30) and Quimper (1 hr, 20 mins; €20.70). Buses to Quiberon and Nantes are available as well.

Visitor Information

Vannes Tourist Office. | Quai Tabarly | 02–97–47–24–34 | www.tourisme-vannes.com.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale St-Pierre.

A panoply of medieval art, St-Pierre boasts a 1537 Renaissance chapel, a Flamboyant Gothic transept portal, and a treasury. | 22 rue des Chanoines | 02–97–47–10–88 | Daily 8:30–7.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Roscanvec.

MODERN FRENCH | On a pedestrian street in the charming old city, this modern gastronomic restaurant ditches stuffiness in favor of a relaxed, contemporary approach to food. What it doesn’t dispense with is seriousness in the kitchen. Chef Thierry Seychelles seeks out top-quality ingredients from a wealth of local suppliers for his seasonal, meticulously presented cuisine. Start with oysters from the nearby Bay of Pénerf, cocotte of asparagus with lime hollandaise, tender foie gras–stuffed ravioli, or smoked eel with lemon confit in a parsley reduction, followed up by monkfish served with French caviar (depending on market availability and the chef’s mood, of course). His take on the traditional Kouign Aman pastry is made with apples and served warm with salty caramel ice cream. TIP Three-course lunch or dinner prix-fixe menus (€25–€70) are the way to go. | Average main: €33 | 17 rue des Halles | 02–97–47–15–96 | www.roscanvec.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun. Closed last wk of June–1st wk of July. Sept.–June, no lunch Tues.

Fodor’s Choice | Domaine de Rochevilaine.

RESORT | At the tip of the magical Pen Lan peninsula, this luxurious collection of 15th- and 16th-century Breton stone buildings resembles a tiny village—albeit one surrounded by terraced gardens that promise grand vistas of the Baie de Vilaine (Vilaine Bay). Once you step through the 13th-century “Portail de la Verité” entryway, the public areas entice with Baroque ex-votos, Louis Treize chairs, rock-face fireplaces, and plate-glass windows; guest rooms sparkle with checked fabrics, veneered woods, and modern furnishings. Chef Patrice Caillaut rules the restaurant, which has a straightforward, classical menu. For a different type of indulgence, head to the spectacular Aqua Phénicia, which has a full spectrum of seawater hydrotherapy facilities and a gigantic indoor pool. Pros: stylish interiors; ocean views; superb spa facilities. Cons: the staff seems to favor French guests; tons of steps from one house to another. | Rooms from: €280 | Pointe de Pen-Lan, 30 km (19 miles) southeast of Vannes | Billiers | 02–97–41–61–61 | www.domainerochevilaine.com | 35 rooms, 3 suites | All meals.

Kyriad.

HOTEL | In an old but thoroughly modernized building, this hotel attracts a varied foreign clientele, drawn by homey guest rooms that are clean, bright, and simple, with check-pattern quilts and warm yellow walls. Claude Le Lausque serves a traditional menu in the long-established Image Sainte-Anne restaurant, stylishly refurbished with plush red carpet, gold and red wallpaper, and round-back designer chairs. You can’t go wrong with straightforward seasonal specialties like scallops à la Bretonne, grilled sole, and kidneys flambéed in Calvados. Pros: tastefully modernized; breakfast included; friendly, efficient staff. Cons: some rooms on the small side; some a bit noisy. | Rooms from: €82 | 8 pl. de la Libération | 02–97–63–27–36 | www.kyriad-vannes.fr | 33 rooms | Breakfast.

LORIENT

50 km (30 miles) west of Vannes via N165, 36 km (22 miles) southeast of Pont-Aven via D24.

France’s most exotically named town was founded by Jean-Baptiste Colbert in 1666 as a base for the Compagnie des Indes, which sent ships from here to the Orient in search of spices. Now a major fishing port, Lorient was smashed into semi-oblivion during World War II (a massive submarine base—Base de Sous-Marins Keroman—attests to its wartime importance); however, you can still see a handful of Art Deco mansions, explore the mile-long quay, and enjoy nearby beaches. Lorient is at its liveliest during the Festival Interceltique in August.

Getting Here

Direct TGVs from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse leave for Lorient five times per day (4 hrs, €25–€68). Trains also run frequently from Nantes (2 hrs, €29.80), Vannes (35 mins, €10.30), and Quimper (40 mins, €12.60). For trips by bus or boat to any of the surrounding towns, contact the Compagnie des Transports de la Région Lorientaise (www.ctrl.fr).

Visitor Information

Lorient Tourist Office. | Quai de Rohan | 02–97–84–78–00 | www.lorient-tourisme.fr.

EXPLORING

Base de Sous-Marins Keroman.

Built by the Nazis during World War II, this submarine base is the world’s largest 20th-century fort. Thirty submarines could be comfortably housed in the squat concrete bunker—and its 27-foot-thick roof withstood intensive Allied bombing virtually intact. Ninety-minute tours begin at 3 pm daily in summer and on Sundays year-round. | Port de Keroman | 02–97–02–23–29 | www.lorient.fr | €6 | Closed last 3 wks of Jan.

Festival Interceltique.

Held in the first half of August, this festival focuses on Celtic culture—music, drama, poetry, dance—and fellow Celts pour in to celebrate from Cornwall, Wales, Ireland, Scotland, Galicia, and other western European locales. | 02–97–21–24–29 | www.festival-interceltique.com.

Larmor-Plage.

There’s a good beach, Larmor-Plage, 5 km (3 miles) south of Lorient. You can also take a ferry to the rocky Ile de Groix or cross the bay to Port-Louis, a harbor renowned for tuna fishing, to see its 17th-century fort and ramparts. | D29.

LA BAULE

72 km (45 miles) southeast of Vannes via N165 and D774.

La Baule is a popular resort town that once rivaled Biarritz. Today it leans toward the tacky rather than the sophisticated, but you still can’t beat its breathtaking 5-km (3-mile) beach or the lovely, long seafront promenade lined with hotels. Like Dinard, La Baule is a 19th-century creation, founded in 1879 to make the most of the sandy strands that extend around the broad, sheltered bay between Pornichet and Le Pouliguen. A pine forest helps keeps shifting dunes in place. All in all, this can offer an idyllic stay for those who like the idea of a day at the beach and an evening at the casino.

Getting Here

Three TGVs per day arrive direct from Paris (3 hrs, 30 mins; €56-€72); six more make the trip with a transfer in Nantes. Direct trains from Nantes run almost hourly (55 mins, €15).

Visitor Information

La Baule Tourist Office. | 8 pl. de la Victoire | 02–40–24–34–44 | www.labaule.fr.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

La Ferme du Grand Clos.

FRENCH | At this lively restaurant in an old farmhouse, 200 yards from the sea, you should understand the difference between crêpe and galette before ordering because the menu showcases both in all their many forms. Alternately, you can opt for the simple, straightforward menu featuring food that owner Christophe Mercy likes to call la cuisine de grand-mère (grandma’s cooking). TIP Come early for a table; it’s a very friendly and popular place. | Average main: €11 | 52 av. de Lattre-de-Tassigny | 02–40–60–03–30 | www.creperie-ferme-grand-clos.fr | Closed Mon. year-round; Mon.–Wed. from Oct.–Apr., and mid-Nov.–mid-Dec.

Concorde.

HOTEL | This bright-blue-shuttered, white-walled establishment ranks among the least expensive “good” hotels in pricey La Baule. Once past the Formica-clad front desk, the lobby reassures with its elegant, solid Louis Treize–style chairs, antique armoires, and solid wood beams. Upstairs, guest rooms are calm, comfortable, and modernized—faux Louis XV furniture lends a nice grace note. Pros: just a short block from the beach; some rooms flaunt sea views; good value. Cons: no restaurant; lengthy annual closure. | Rooms from: €99 | 1 bis, av. de la Concorde | 02–40–60–23–09 | www.hotel-la-concorde.com | 47 rooms | Closed Oct.–mid-Apr.

Hôtel de la Plage.

HOTEL | One of the few hotels on the beach in St-Marc-sur-Mer, southeast of La Baule, this comfortable lodging was the celebrated setting for Jacques Tati’s classic comedy Mr. Hulot’s Holiday. It has been updated since and, hélas, the swinging door to the dining room is no longer there. But the view of the sea and the sound of the surf remain. The restaurant—reserve a beachfront table in advance—serves the usual seasonal fish and seafood (oysters, shrimp, tuna, sea bass, and cod) as well as classic bistro fare like a beef fillet in a three-pepper sauce or roasted duck breast with sautéed potatoes. Pros: silver-screen claim to fame; beachside setting. Cons: old-fashioned; overrun by French families in midsummer. | Rooms from: €139 | 37 rue du Commandant-Charcot, 10 km (6 miles) southeast of La Baule | St-Marc-sur-Mer | 02–40–91–99–01 | www.hotel-delaplage.fr | 30 rooms | All meals.

NIGHTLIFE

Casino.

Occasionally you see high stakes on the tables at La Baule’s casino. | 24 Esplanade Lucien Barrière | 02–40–11–48–28 | www.lucienbarriere.com.

NANTES

72 km (45 miles) east of La Baule via N171 and N165, 108 km (67 miles) south of Rennes.

The writer Stendhal remarked of 19th-century Nantes, “I hadn’t taken 20 steps before I recognized a great city.” Since then, the river that flowed around the upper-crust Ile Feydeau neighborhood has been filled in and replaced with a rushing torrent of cars on the major highways that now cut through the heart of town. Still, Nantes is more than the sum of its traffic jams, and even the bureaucratic severance of the city from Brittany—it’s now the capital of the Pays de la Loire region—has not robbed it of its historic Breton character. Stay a spell to discover its many sights, among them an evocative 15th-century château and a cathedral from the same period that seems to float heavenward. Across the broad boulevard, Cours des 50-Otages, sits the 19th-century city.

Getting Here and Around

Frequent Nantes-bound TGVs depart from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse (2 hrs, 20 minutes; €48-€70). The city is also well served by trains from La Baule (55 mins, €15), Vannes (1 hr, 30 mins; €22.80), Rennes (1 hr, 40 mins; €25.60), Lorient (2 hrs, €29.80), and Quimper (2 hrs, 40 mins; €37.60). Nantes’s train station, on boulevard Stalingrad, is a 10-minute walk from the Vieille Ville. Regional bus service to nearby towns is available. Civic trams and buses operated by TAN (https://www.tan.fr) provide efficient public transit within the city.

Visitor Information

Nantes Tourist Office. | 9 rue des États | 08–92–46–40–44 €0.34 min | www.nantes-tourisme.com.

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EXPLORING

Cathédrale St-Pierre–St-Paul.

One of France’s last Gothic cathedrals, this was begun in 1434—well after most other medieval cathedrals had been completed. The facade is ponderous and austere, in contrast to the light, wide, limestone interior, whose vaults rise higher (120 feet) than those of Notre-Dame in Paris. | Pl. St-Pierre | 02–40–47–84–64 | Free | Cathedral: daily 9–7 (6 in winter); Crypt: Sept.–Easter, weekends 3–6; Easter–July 14, Sat. 10–12:30 and 3–6; July 15–Aug., Wed.–Fri., Sun. 3–6, Tues., Sat. 10–12:30 and 3–6.

Château des Ducs de Bretagne.

Built by the dukes of Brittany, who had no doubt that Nantes belonged in their domain, this moated 15th-century château looks well-preserved, despite having lost an entire tower during a gunpowder explosion in 1800. François II, the duke responsible for building most of the massive structure, led a hedonistic life here, surrounded by ministers, chamberlains, and an army of servants. Numerous monarchs later stayed in the castle, where in 1598 Henri IV signed the famous Edict of Nantes advocating religious tolerance. | 4 pl. Marc-Elder | 02–51–17–49–48 | www.chateau-nantes.fr | €5 (€8 with temporary exhibition) | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Sept.–June, Tues.–Sun. 10–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Grand Eléphant et Galerie de les Machines de l’Ille.

Had Jules Verne (a son of Nantes) and Leonardo da Vinci somehow got together when they were both in a particularly whimsical frame of mind, they may well have established this unique and engaging workshop-gallery. Their spirit certainly lives in the imaginative, artistic, and mechanically brilliant creations that are built and displayed here. The Grand Eléphant gets most attention—hardly surprising, since the 50-ton giant, just short of 40 feet high, regularly “ambles” along the quay carrying 49 passengers. Inside the gallery are more works in many shapes and sizes—some of them interactive—and you can view work in progress (weekdays) on the workshop’s latest projects; the Carrousel des Mondes Marins (Marine Worlds Carousel), the newest eye-popping addition, is located just outside the gallery on the banks of the Loire. | Les Chantiers,bd. Léon Bureau, Ile de Nantes | 08–10–12–12–25 | www.lesmachines-nantes.fr | €8; elephant ride €8; carousel €8 | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Sept.–early Jan. and mid-Feb.–June, hrs vary (see website).

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts).

Designed by Clément-Marie Josso, this noted museum was opened in 1900. Inside, skylights cast their glow over a fine array of paintings, extending from the Renaissance period onward, including works by Jacopo Tintoretto, Georges de La Tour, Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, and Gustave Courbet. To go from the sublime to the ridiculous, look for the famous late-19th-century painting of a gorilla running amok with a maiden. The main palais is closed for renovations until 2018, but the Chapelle de l’Oratoire (Place de l’Oratoire) will host temporary exhibitions of the permanent collection in the interim. | 10 rue Georges-Clemenceau | 02–51–17–45–00 Museum, 02–51–17–45–42 Chapelle | www.museedesbeauxarts.nantes.fr | €2 (free Thurs. 6–7, July and Aug.; Sun. Sept.–June) | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Sept.–June, Wed.–Mon., 10–6, Thurs. until 8.

Musée Thomas-Dobrée.

Across from the medieval Manoir de la Touche, this mansion was built by arts connoisseur Thomas Dobrée in the 19th century. On the mock-Romanesque facade he had chiseled the old Breton saying, Ann dianaf a rog ac’hanoun (“The Unknown devours me”), and his vast collection offers proof, as it ranges from old-master paintings to tapestries, from medieval manuscripts to Gothic goldwork— including the coffret reliquary containing the heart of Anne de Bretagne. Anne, the last independent ruler of Brittany, married the region away to King Charles VIII of France in 1491, and Bretons have never quite recovered from the shock. Currently in the midst of a renovation, the museum will be closed to the public until the fall of 2015. | 18 rue Voltaire | 02–40–71–03–50 | €3 | Tues.–Sun. 2:30–5:30.

Passage Pommeraye.

Erected in 1843, this is an elegant shopping gallery in the 19th-century part of town. | Rue Crébillon.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

La Cigale.

BRASSERIE | Palm trees, gleaming woodwork, colorful enamel tiles, and painted ceilings have led to the official recognition of La Cigale brasserie (built in 1895) as a monument historique. You can savor its Belle Époque blandishments without spending a fortune—the prix-fixe lunch menus are a good value. But the banks of fresh oysters and well-stacked dessert cart may tempt you to order à la carte. Best of all, it’s open every day from early morning till after midnight, a rare convenience in France. | Average main: €19 | 4 pl. Graslin | 02–51–84–94–94 | www.lacigale.com | Reservations essential.

L’Embellie.

MODERN FRENCH | Sweet and simple L’Embellie lures diners with its inventive attitude and friendly service. Chef Manuel Le Gouil has brought renewed vigor to the creative regional cuisine that has been a staple of this bright, elegant eatery. The menu, being dependent on his daily trips to markets, might include fresh fish specials (like “just caught” John Dory dressed in tarragon-tinged velvet-crab foam) or roasted and deboned, locally raised pigeon in a simple au jus. A delicious orange and passion fruit soufflé is a fitting twist on a classic finale. | Average main: €28 | 14 rue Armand-Brossard | 02–40–48–20–02 | www.restaurantlembellie.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon., no dinner Sun.

Les Chants d’Avril.

BISTRO | It may not be the fanciest restaurant in Nantes, but Les Chants d’Avril is where the locals go for affordable “bistronomic” fare. Murals, dark-wood paneling, and leather banquettes lend a warm, traditional look; the attention to market-driven ingredients and interesting wines, however, puts it on par with the best modern bistrôts à vin. Labels aside, dishes like the excellent homemade foie gras, white-peach gazpacho, or lobster consommé speak for themselves. For dessert, the luscious caramel clafoutis is a must. TIP Although dinner is served on Thursday and Friday, it’s best to come at lunch for the three-course menu—a great deal at €22. | Average main: €19 | 2 rue Laënnec | 02–40–89–34–76 | www.leschantsdavril.fr | Closed weekends, Mon.–Wed. dinner.

Villa Mon Rêve.

MODERN FRENCH | This dreamy restaurant sits in delightful parkland off the D751 east of Nantes. Longtime chef Gérard Ryngel has retired, but the emphasis on elegant, innovative regional cuisine continues under the stewardship of Jérôme and Magalie Ponchelle, who bought the spot in 2013. Try steamed pike-perch in a beurre-blanc sauce or frogs’ legs in Gros Plant white-wine sauce. Lunchtime prix-fixe menus are €28, and there are more than 50 varieties of Muscadet, the local white wine, for you to choose from. TIP Request a table on the terrace when you reserve. | Average main: €26 | Levée Divatte,506 bd. de la Loire, 8 km (5 miles) east of Nantes | Basse-Goulaine | 02–40–03–55–50 | www.villa-mon-reve.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon., Tues., Sun. dinner.

La Pérouse.

HOTEL | Bare parquet floors, plain off-white walls, simple high-tech lighting, and minimal contemporary furnishings by celebrated modernist designers all helped earn La Pérouse the accolade of Europe’s Design Hotel of the Year back in 1995—shortly after this big white cube of a hotel opened its doors. Twenty years later its style still holds up well. The spaces may be bare, but at least they are filled with furnishings by some great modern masters, such as Le Corbusier, Eileen Gray, and Gerrit Rietvield. The amiable staff speaks fluent English. A pedestrian zone full of boutiques and restaurants is right outside the door, and Place Royale is 300 yards away. Pros: stylish interiors; friendly staff; organic breakfasts included. Cons: hard to park; no restaurant; noisy bar. | Rooms from: €69 | 3 allée Dusquesne | 02–40–89–75–00 | www.hotel-laperouse.fr | 46 rooms | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Le Lieu Unique.

This is the place to go for an impressive selection of cutting-edge cultural and leisure events, including music, dance, art exhibitions, and creative “happenings.” The contemporary space includes a bar, restaurant, boutique, and, yes, a hammam, too. | 2 Quai Ferdinand-Favre | 02–40–12–14–34 | www.lelieuunique.com.

Théâtre Graslin.

Nantes’s principal concert hall was built in 1788, ravaged by fire in 1796, and rebuilt by the grace of Emperor Napoléon I in 1811. Today it’s home to the acclaimed Angers Nantes Opéra. | 1 rue Molière | 02–40–69–77–18 | www.angers-nantes-opera.com.

Univers.

An informal “speakeasy,” Univers has live jazz concerts every other week—and 50 brands of whiskey every day. | 16 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau | 02–40–73–49–55 | www.univers-cafe.com.

THE OUTDOORS

FAMILY | Bateaux Nantais.

You can take a 100-minute cruise along the pretty Erdre River, past a string of gardens and châteaux, on the Bateaux Nantais. There are also four-course lunch and dinner cruises that last about 2½ hours (€51–€89). | Quai de la Motte Rouge | 02–40–14–51–14 | www.bateaux-nantais.fr | €12.50 | July and Aug., daily at 3:30, 5:30, Sun. and holidays, 10:30, 3:30, 5:30; May, June, and Sept., daily at 3:30; Mar., Apr., Oct., and Nov., Sun. and holidays at 3:30; Dec.–Feb. call for info.

SHOPPING

The commercial quarter of Nantes stretches from place Royale to place Graslin. Various antiques shops can be found on Rue Voltaire.

Devineau.

Since 1803, the Devineau family has been selling handmade candles of every imaginable size and color, as well as wax fruit and vegetables, various objets d’art, and wildflower honey. | 4 rue Belle Image | 02–40–47–19–59.

Gautier-Debotté.

For chocolate, head to Gautier-Debotté; try the local Muscadet grapes macerated in the local Muscadet wine and enrobed in chocolate. | 9 rue de la Fosse | 02–40–48–23–19 | www.debotte.fr | Closed Sun. and Mon.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Champagne Country

Champagne

The Cathedral Cities

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner

Updated by Lyn Parry

Few drinks in the world have such a pull on the imagination as Champagne, yet surprisingly few tourists visit the pretty vineyards south of Reims. Perhaps it’s because the Champagne region is seen as a bit of a backwater, halfway between Paris and Luxembourg. The arrival of the TGV line serving eastern France and Germany has helped to change this perception.

Champagne, a place-name that has become a universal synonym for joy and festivity, actually began as a word of humble meaning. Like campagna, its Italian counterpart, it’s derived from the Latin campus, or “open field.” In French campus became champ, with the old language extending this to champaign, for “battlefield,” and champaine, for “district of plains.” The gentle vine-covered slopes of the hillsides rising from vast chalky plains here have been the center of Champagne production for more than two centuries, stocking the cellars of its many conquerors (Napoléon, Czar Nicholas I, the Duke of Wellington) as well as those of contemporary case-toting bubblyphiles.

Meanwhile, great cathedrals testify to the wealth this region enjoyed thanks to its prime location between Paris and northern Europe. The flying buttresses and heaven-seeking spires of these sanctuaries remind us that medieval stoneworkers sought to raise radically new Gothic arches to improbable heights, running for cover if their ambitious efforts failed. Most have stood the test of time, though you might want to hover near the exits at Beauvais, the tallest cathedral in France—its height still makes some engineers nervous.

The region’s crossroads status also exacted a heavy toll, and it paid heavily for its role as a battleground for the bickering British, German, and French. From pre-Roman times to the armistice of 1945, some of Europe’s costliest wars were fought on northern French soil. World War I and World War II were especially unkind: epic cemeteries cover the plains of Picardy, and you can still see bullet-pocked buildings in Amiens. These days, happily, the vineyards of Champagne attract tourists interested in less sobering events.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Drink Champagne—what else!: Sample some bubbly, see the vineyards, and visit the cavernous chalk cellars where bottles are stored by the million.

Bask in Gothic glory: No fewer than 10 Gothic cathedrals dot the region—don’t miss the biggest (Amiens) or the tallest (neighboring Beauvais).

Look up in Laon: With its cathedral towers patrolling the hilly horizon, the “Crowned Mountain” has a site whose grandeur rivals Mont-St-Michel.

Drink now, pray later in Reims: Beyond being a center for Champagne production, regal Reims is also home to France’s great coronation cathedral.

Exercise your options: Hiking on one of Champagne’s fabulous, forested sentiers de Grandes Randonnées can be an intoxicating outdoor activity.

GETTING ORIENTED

As you head toward Reims, the landscape loosens and undulates, and the hills tantalize with vineyards that—thanks to la méthode champenoise—produce the world’s antidote to gloom. Each year, millions of bottles of bubbly mature in hundreds of kilometers of chalk tunnels carved under the streets of Reims and Épernay, both of which fight for the title “The Champagne City.” Long before a drink put it on the map, though, this area of northern France was marked by marvelous architecture, and it contains many of France’s greatest medieval cathedrals.

WHAT’S WHERE

Champagne. The local obsession with Champagne is especially evident in Reims, the region’s hub, which is home to the great Champagne houses and site of one of the most historically important cathedrals in France. Once you’ve paid tribute to the 34 VIPs who have been crowned here and toured some Champagne cellars to bone up on the backstory behind this noble beverage, you can head south. Smack-dab in the middle of the 280 square kilometers (108 square miles) that make up the entire Champagne-producing area, Épernay lives and dies for the bubbly brew. Continue on the Route du Champagne to other wine villages.

The Cathedral Cities. To the west of Champagne lies a region where the popping of Champagne corks is only a distant murmur, and not just because Reims is 160 km (100 miles) away. Here you’ll find some of the most gargantuan Gothic hulks of architectural harmony—namely the cathedrals of Beauvais, Amiens, Laon, and Soissons. Beauvais is positively dizzying from within (it features the highest choir in France, and you nearly keel over craning your neck back to see it); Amiens, the largest church in the land, is fantastically ornate in places; while Laon is notable for its majestic towers, and Soissons shows Gothic at its most restrained.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

Of course, the optimal time to visit vineyards is around the fall harvest, when the weather is usually at its best. Summer also has its advantages. Compared to many other regions of France, Champagne remains relatively uncrowded in July and August; and the coolness of the chalk cellars makes it a pleasure to tour the Champagne houses then (note that many close after the busy winter holidays for the first few months of the year, as do some of the smaller hotels and restaurants). Spring is generally unpredictable weather-wise, but on the dry and sunny days it can idyllic. Whatever you plan to do, be sure to come between May and October; the ubiquitous vineyards are a dismal, leafless sight the rest of the year.

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

Threading the triangle between Reims, Épernay, and Château-Thierry are the famous Routes Touristique du Champagne (Champagne Roads), which divvy up the region into four fabulous itineraries. These follow the main four côtes of the Champagne vineyards. Northwest of Reims (use the Tinqueux exit) is the Massif de Saint-Thierry—a vineyard-rich region once hallowed by kings. Heading south of Reims to Épernay, veer west along the Vallée de la Marne through the Hauteurs d’Épernay, traveling west on the right bank of the river and east on the left. To the east of Épernay lies the most beautiful stretch of Champagne Country: the Montagne de Reims. To the south of Épernay is the Côte de Blancs, the “cradle of Chardonnay.” More than 80 producers of Champagne are scattered along these roads, and you can guarantee a better reception if you call the ones you’d like to visit in advance.

The two main centers to the Champagne Wine Road are Reims and Épernay, which are about 64 km (40 miles) apart if you work your way through the wine villages that dot the slopes of the Montagne de Reims. Start in Reims, with its host of major Champagne houses, then go south on D951 and east on D26 through pretty Rilly-la-Montagne, Mailly-Champagne, and Verzy, where you can visit local producers Étienne and Anne-Laure Lefevre at 30 rue de Villers (03–26–97–96–99 | www.champagne-etienne-lefevre.com). Continue south to Ambonnay, then track back west to Bouzy, Ay, and Hautvillers—where Dom Pérignon is buried in the village church—before crossing the Marne River to Épernay, whose main street is home to several producers.

From Épernay, spear south along the Côte de Blanc to Vertus, 19 km (12 miles) away, where Pierre and Sophie Larmandier will sell and tell you all about their organic bio-Champagne at 19 avenue du General-de-Gaulle (03–26–52–13–24 | www.larmandier.fr). If you’re heading back to Paris, take D1 from Épernay west along the banks of the Marne to Château-Thierry 50 km (30 miles) away. The steep-climbing vineyards hugging the river are the most scenic in Champagne. For maps of the four Routes Touristique du Champagne, stop at the Marne Regional Tourist Office in Châlons-en-Champagne or the tourist offices in Reims or Épernay.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Reims remains the natural hub—especially now that it’s just 45 minutes from Paris by TGV. It’s easy to get to major towns in the region by rail; as always in France, intercity buses are less frequent than trains, and much slower. If you’re driving, Reims is linked to Laon by the A26 expressway and to Châlons-en-Champagne by the A4 expressway arriving from Paris. The west, Amiens and Beauvais, are connected by the A16. Épernay, south of Reims, can be reached from Reims by the twisting wine road or quicker D951. Only Soissons, 32 km (20 miles) southwest of Laon, is a bit off the beaten track.

Air Travel

If you’re coming from the United States or most other locales, count on arriving at Paris’s Charles de Gaulle or Orly airport. Charles de Gaulle offers easy access to the northbound A16 and A1 for Beauvais and Amiens, and the eastbound A4 for Reims. If coming from within the European Union, consider the direct flights into Beauvais operated by several budget carriers.

Airport Information

Aéroport de Beauvais-Tillé. | 08–92–68–20–66 | www.aeroportbeauvais.com.

Bus Travel

As train travel is so much more efficient and dependable, we don’t recommend relying on bus service outside Paris. There are more than a dozen different bus operators in the Champagne and Picardy regions, but since few of them have websites, reliable schedules, or any personnel who speak English, it’s best to contact the local tourism office if you’re looking into bus options. In Picardy the main bus hub is at the Gare Routière in Amiens, next to the train station. In the Champagne region, the main hub is Châlons-en-Champagne, with routes from Reims to Troyes, Épernay to Châlons, and Reims to Laon. In Reims, municipal buses depart from the train station.

Car Travel

The A4 heads east from Paris to Reims; allow 90 minutes to two hours, depending on traffic. The A16 leads from L’Isle-Adam, north of Paris, up to Beauvais and Amiens.

If you’re arriving by car via the Channel Tunnel, you’ll disembark at Coquelles, near Calais, and join A16 not far from its junction with A26, which heads to Reims (2 hrs, 30 mins).

Train Travel

Most sites can be reached by regular service, except for the Champagne vineyards, which require a car. There are frequent daily trains from Paris (Gare du Nord) to Beauvais, Amiens, and Laon, which take up to two leisurely hours to travel 140 km (87 miles). The super-express TGV service covers the 170 km (105 miles) from Paris (Gare de l’Est) to Reims in 45 minutes (€29–€57). Trains departing from Gare de l’Est regularly travel to Châlons as well, making the 174-km (108-mile) trip in 1 hour, 30 minutes (€27)—an hour flat if you take the TGV (€42). From the same station you can make the 145-km (90-mile) trip to Épernay in 1 hour, 15 minutes (€22.50). Within the Champagne region, trains also connect key destinations, like Reims and Épernay (25 mins, €6.60) or Amiens (2 hrs, 14 mins; €25.80).

Train Information

Gare SNCF Reims. | Bd. Joffre, | Reims | 3635 SCNF, €0.34 per min, 08–91–67–10–08 TER Regional, €0.22 per min.

SNCF. | 3635 €0.34 per min | www.voyages-sncf.com.

TGV. | www.tgv.com.

RESTAURANTS

This region is less dependent on tourism than many in France, and most restaurants are open year-round. However, in the largest cities, Reims and Amiens, many do close for two to three weeks in July and August.

Smoked ham, pigs’ feet, gingerbread, and Champagne-based mustard are specialties of the Reims area, along with sautéed chicken, kidneys, stuffed trout, pike, and snails.

One particularly hearty dish is potée champenoise, consisting of smoked ham, bacon, sausage, and cabbage. Rabbit (often cooked with prunes) is common, while boar and venison are specialties in fall and winter, when vegetable soups are high on the menu.

In Picardy, the popular ficelle picarde is a pancake stuffed with cheese, mushrooms, and ham.

Apart from Champagne, try drinking the region’s hydromel (mead, made from honey) and Ratafia, a sweet aperitif made from grape juice and brandy.

HOTELS

The Champagne Region has a mix of old, rambling hotels, often simple rather than pretentious. In addition, there are a handful of stylish hostelries catering to those with more discerning tastes, including a large contingent of staffers who work in the Champagne industry. Be warned, though, that few of the destinations in this part of the country have much in the way of upscale choice. Many of the region’s most character-filled establishments are in the countryside and require a car to reach. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

If traveling extensively by public transportation, be sure to load up on information (“Guide Régional des Transports” schedules, the best taxi-for-call companies, etc.) upon arriving at the ticket counter or help desk of the bigger train and bus stations in the area, such as Reims and Amiens. In addition to the main tourist offices in these two cities, other smaller towns have their own tourist bureaus, which are listed in this chapter under the town names.

Two main websites for the region (www.tourisme-champagne-ardenne.com, www.picardietourisme.com) are packed with data and suggestions for Champagne-bound travelers.

Amiens Tourist Office. | 40 pl. Notre Dame | Amiens | 03–22–71–60–50 | www.amiens-tourisme.com.

Marne Regional Tourist Office. The Marne Regional Tourist Office is a mine of information about the Champagne region. | 13 bis, rue Carnot | Châlons-en-Champagne | 03–26–68–37–52 | www.tourisme-en-champagne.com.

Reims Tourist Office | Reims | 08–21–61–01–60 €0.09 per min | www.reims-tourisme.com

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Reims | L’Épine | Châlons-en-Champagne | Épernay | Château-Thierry

An uplifting landscape tumbles about Reims and Épernay, perhaps because its inhabitants treat themselves to a regular infusion of the local, world-prized elixir. But unlike the great vineyards of Bordeaux and Burgundy, there are few country châteaux to go with the fabled names of this region—Mumm, Taittinger, Pommery, and Veuve-Clicquot. Most of the glory is to be found in caves (wine cellars), not to mention the fascinating guided tours offered by the most famous producers.

Despite its glamorous image as the home of Champagne, the region in fact has a laid-back rustic charm where “life in the fast lane” refers strictly to the Paris-bound A4 expressway. On the map, Champagne encompasses Reims and the surrounding vineyards and chalky plains. The province starts just beyond Château-Thierry, 96 km (60 miles) northeast of Paris, and continues along the towering Marne Valley to Épernay. Cheerful villages line the Routes Touristique du Champagne, which twines north to Reims, the largest city in Champagne. To the southeast the grapes of Champagne flourish on the steep slopes of the Marne Valley and the Montagne de Reims, really more of a mighty hill than a mountain. For a handy web source covering many of the great Champagne houses in the region, log on to www.maisons-champagne.com.

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REIMS

161 km (100 miles) northeast of Paris.

Behind a facade of austerity, Champagne’s largest city remains one of France’s richest tourist sites, thanks especially to the fact that it sparkles with some of the biggest names in Champagne production. This thriving industry has conferred wealth and sometimes an arrogant reserve on the region’s inhabitants. The maze of Champagne cellars constitutes a leading attraction here. Several of these producers organize visits to their cellars, combining video presentations with guided tours of their cavernous, hewn-chalk underground warehouses. The city’s tourist office will provide you with a complete list of Champagne cellars. While there, you can also get information on other standout sights. Although many of Reims’s historic buildings were flattened in World War I and replaced by drab, modern architecture, those that do remain are of royal magnitude. Topping the list is the magnificent cathedral, in which the kings of France were crowned until 1825.

Getting Here

You can make it to Reims in 45 minutes on the TGV express from Gare de l’Est: trains depart 13 times daily and cost €29–€57. Several SNCF trains daily connect Reims to Épernay (25 mins, €6.60), and there is also regular daily train service to Châlons-en-Champagne (40 mins, €10.80) and Laon (40 mins, €9.90). There are two direct trains each day from Amiens to Reims (2 hrs, 14 mins; €25.80). Les Courriers de L’Aube (03–25–71–28–42 | www.courriersdelaube.fr) runs seven daily buses to Reims from Châlons-en-Champagne (line 140; 1 hr; €10).

Visitor Information

Reims Tourist Office. | 08–21–61–01–60 €0.09 per min | www.reims-tourisme.com | Parvis de la Gare | 08–21–61–01–60 €0.09 per min.

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EXPLORING

A useful website that can help with planning Champagne cellar visits throughout the region is: | www.tourisme-en-champagne.com.

Top Attractions

Basilique St-Rémi.

This 11th-century Romanesque-Gothic basilica honors the fifth-century saint who gave his name to the city and baptized Clovis (the first king of France) in 498. The interior seems to stretch into the endless distance, an impression created by its relative murk and lowness. The airy four-story Gothic choir contains some fine stained glass from the 12th century. The holy phial used in the crowning of monarchs was formerly kept alongside the basilica in the Abbaye Royale; today that building houses an interesting museum which highlights the history of the abbey, the Gallo-Roman history of the town, and the military history of the region. | Pl. Chandoine Ladame | 03–26–85–06–69 | stremi-reims.cef.fr | Museum, €4 | Daily 8–7; museum weekdays 2–6:30, weekends 2–7.

Fodor’s Choice | Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims.

Recently restored for its 800th birthday, this magnificent Gothic cathedral provided the setting for the coronations of French kings. The great historical saga began with Clovis, king of the Franks, who was baptized in an early structure on this site at the end of the fifth century; Joan of Arc led her recalcitrant Dauphin here to be crowned King Charles VII; Charles X’s coronation, in 1825, was the last. The east-end windows have stained glass by Marc Chagall and Imi Knoebel. Admire the vista toward the west end, with an interplay of narrow pointed arches. The glory of Reims’s cathedral is its facade: it’s so skillfully proportioned that initially you have little idea of its monumental size. Above the north (left) door hovers the Laughing Angel, a delightful statue whose famous smile threatens to melt into an acid-rain scowl now that pollution has succeeded war as the ravager of the building’s fabric. With the exception of the 15th-century towers, most of the original building went up in the 100 years after 1211. You can climb to the top of the towers and peek inside the breathtaking timber-and-concrete roof (reconstructed in the 1920s with Rockefeller money) for €7.50. A stroll around the outside reinforces the impression of harmony, discipline, and decorative richness. The east end presents an idyllic sight across well-tended lawns. | Pl. du Cardinal-Luçon | 03–26–47–81–79 | www.cathedrale-reims.monuments-nationaux.fr | Cathedral daily 7:30–7:30. Towers mid-Mar.–early May, Sept., and Oct., Sat. at 10, 11, 2, 3, 4, and Sun. at 2, 3 and 4; early May–Aug., Tues.– Sat. 10, 11, 2, 3, 4, 5, and Sun. 2, 3, 4, 5.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts).

Two blocks southwest of Reims’s massive cathedral, this noted museum has an outstanding collection of paintings, which includes no fewer than 27 Corots, as well as Jacques-Louis David’s unforgettable Death of Marat (the portrait shows the revolutionary polemicist Jean-Paul Marat stabbed to death in his bath—a deed committed by Charlotte Corday, in 1793). Unfortunately, the museum is only open for temporary exhibitions at the moment, and the main collection is already packed away in preparation for a major move. In 2018 the museum is set to open in new premises, designed by David Chipperfield, near Les Halles du Boulingrin on the Rue de Mars. | 8 rue Chanzy | 03–26–35–36–00 | www.ville-reims.fr | €4 | Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

Worth Noting

Cryptoportique.

A Gallo-Roman underground gallery and crypt, now a semi-subterranean venue for municipal expositions, was initially constructed around AD 200 beneath the forum of Reims’s predecessor, the Roman town of Durocortorum. | Pl. du Forum | 03–26–77–45–03 | Free | June–Sept., daily 2–6.

Hôtel Le Vergeur Museum.

One of the best examples of late medieval and early Renaissance architecture in Reims was built during the 13th century. Originally overlooking the historic linen and wheat market in the center of town, this noble townhouse changed hands between aristocrats and Champagne traders before being acquired in 1910 by Hugues Kraft—a man whose sole passion was preserving the city’s historic buildings. It was completely restored after the WWI bombings and today houses an impressive collection of historical prints, paintings, and furnishings from the region, as well as an original, complete series of 15th-century Albert Dürer prints of the “Apocalypse” and “Large Passion.” There are guided tours of the collection Tuesday through Sunday, from 2 to 5. | 36 pl. du Forum | 03–26–47–20–75 | www.museelevergeur.fr | €5 | Tues.–Sun. 2–6.

Musée de la Reddition (Museum of the Surrender).

Also known as the Salle du 8-Mai-1945 or the “little red school house,” this museum is a well-preserved map-covered room used by General Eisenhower as Allied headquarters at the end of World War II. It was here that General Alfred Jodl signed the German surrender at 2:41 am on May 7, 1945. Fighting officially ceased at midnight the next day. The museum also presents a collection of local photos, documents, uniforms, and artifacts recounting the fighting, occupation, and liberation of Reims. Guided tours begin with a short film in English and French. | 12 rue Franklin-Roosevelt | 03–26–47–84–19 | €4 | Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

Palais du Tau.

Formerly the Archbishop’s Palace, this UNESCO World Heritage List museum has an impressive display of tapestries and coronation robes of 32 French kings, as well as several statues rescued from the cathedral facade. The second-floor views of the cathedral, which stands alongside it, are terrific. | 2 pl. du Cardinal-Luçon | 03–26–47–81–79 | www.palais-tau.monuments-nationaux.fr | €7.50 | May–Aug., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–6:30; Sept.–Apr., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5:30.

WHERE TO EAT

Brasserie Flo.

BRASSERIE | This authentic brasserie, part of the Flo chain, has polished wood floors, Art Nouveau glass windows, and mirrored walls. The food is sophisticated and dependable, the service sleek. Signature dishes—like foie gras terrine with seasonal fruit chutney, or roast monkfish with cèpe mushrooms—are just some of the delicious choices. There are also good fixed-price menus, which change on a weekly basis. TIP The terrace is an added bonus in the summer. | Average main: €25 | 96 pl. Drouet d’Erlon | 03–26–91–40–50 | www.floreims.com.

Café du Palais.

BISTRO | Walls at this 1930s eatery are crammed with gilt-edged mirrors, golden cherubs, old posters and paintings, while crystal chandeliers hang from the ceiling which itself is topped by a magnificent Art Deco glass roof signed by Jacques Simon. Authentic bistro-style food adorns the plates, with daily specials including dishes such as quail breast or poached salmon in a creamy leek sauce. Desserts are regional favorites (like ice cream with the famous biscuits roses de Reims), and the selection of Champagnes is extensive—there’s a good choice of red Coteaux Champenois wines, too. The café is a few minutes by foot from the cathedral and popular among locals, so it’s best to reserve a table in advance. TIP Request one inside as the terrace looks out over a tramline. Lunch only is served Tuesday to Friday; on Saturday lunch and dinner are available. | Average main: €23 | 14 pl. Myron T-Herrick | 03–26–47–52–54 | www.cafedupalais.fr | Closed Sun. and Mon. No dinner Tues.–Fri.

La Table d’Anna.

MODERN FRENCH | About a five-minute walk from Reims’s cathedral, this small room features creative, contemporary French cuisine in charming pastel-toned surroundings. Try fillet of cod with tarragon-flavored crumble, breast of Guinea fowl served with truffle-enhanced smashed potatoes, or panfried scallops with vegetable-stuffed cannelloni in a Champagne sauce—just be sure to leave room for the desserts, which are almost too pretty to eat. A vegetarian menu is available on request. | Average main: €25 | 6 rue Gambetta | 03–26–89–12–12 | www.latableanna.fr | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun. and Wed.

Le Bocal.

SEAFOOD | Freshness is guaranteed at this tiny treasure, hidden at the back of a fishmonger’s shop across from the old food court (les Halles du Boulingrin). Everything is just off the boat, but most of the dozen lucky diners automatically go with the catch of the day. Tempting as that is, no one should pass up the divine cooked oysters in season. TIP Tables in the bright, contemporary room are in demand, so it’s best to reserve ahead. | Average main: €20 | 27 rue de Mars | 03–26–47–02–51 | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Le Millénaire.

MODERN FRENCH | Appearances deceive at this traditional town house just off Place Royale, a few feet from the cathedral. Inside, it has an updated Art Deco feel with plush eggplant-hued carpets and sleek, chic chairs. Chef Laurent Laplaige, seconded by Frédéric Dupont, finds an outlet for his decorative artistry in colorful food presented on elegant white plates. Stunning specialties range from roast lobster with wild mushrooms and panfried scallops with Thai-perfumed baby vegetables, to Limousin veal stuffed with peanut butter and sun-dried tomatoes. Dessert dazzlers include a pistachio and cherry flavored crème brûlée. | Average main: €50 | 4 rue Bertin | 03–26–08–26–62 | www.lemillenaire.com | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

WHERE TO STAY

Château Les Crayères.

HOTEL | In a grand park with towering trees planted by Champagne legend Madame Pommery, this celebrated hotel remains the showplace of Reims—a stylish, late-19th-century château featuring guest rooms bedecked with antiques, boiseries, and couture fabrics, plus the finest Champenoise restaurant of them all, Le Parc. Legendary chef Gérard Boyer made Le Parc the most famous haute gastronomic restaurant in Reims. Now Philippe Mille, who was handed the reins in 2010 (he was named Meilleur Ouvrier de France—the Best Craftsman of France—a year later), is regaining the heights of Boyer’s era. Mille expresses his talent with a modern, but generous, cuisine. Prepared with precision, the product-inspired dishes ooze enthusiasm, including the cod with a white truffle sauce and the Wagyu beef served with beetroot and cabbage. An extensive wine list pays homage to Reims’s Champagne heritage, while the attentive service ensures that guests feel properly pampered. The restaurant is closed Monday and Tuesday; reservations and jacket and tie are essential. For something less formal, reserve a table at the brasserie Les Jardins which has a large terrace and a light-filled contemporary dining room with a view of the chefs at work in the kitchen. Pros: hotel and two restaurants in same luxurious setting; innovative food and Champagne pairings; glorious salons are gilt trimmed and bouquet laden. Cons: outside the center of town. | Rooms from: €395 | 64 bd. Henry-Vasnier | 03–26–24–90–00 | www.lescrayeres.com | 16 rooms, 4 suites | Closed 3 wks in late Dec.–early Jan. | No meals.

Grand Hôtel Continental.

HOTEL | Centrally located on the main pedestrian street, this hotel was originally a private 19th-century mansion, and the lobby still exudes old-world charm with worn leather couches, low-level lighting, and a grand staircase; in contrast the smart guest rooms, individually decorated in either classic or contemporary styles, have flat-screen TVs and modern bathrooms. A buffet breakfast is served (at extra cost) in a room at the rear of the hotel. There are better eating options in Reims than the hotel’s Au Conti restaurant which, although adequate, borders on the pretentious. Pros: central location; air-conditioning. Cons: some rooms lack charm. | Rooms from: €82 | 93 pl. Drouet d’Erlon | 03–26–40–39–35 | www.grandhotelcontinental.com | 61 rooms, 2 suites | Closed 2 wks in late Dec.–early Jan. | No meals.

Hôtel Azur.

HOTEL | At this comfortable, friendly spot on a residential street in the center of Reims, rooms are simply furnished and decorated in cheerful primary colors with modern white tile bathrooms. Breakfast is served in a sunny room, or on the garden patio during summer. Pros: free Wi-Fi; near train station and 10-minute walk to Cathedral; secure parking. Cons: few rooms have bathtubs; limited reception hours. | Rooms from: €89 | 9 rue des Ecrevées | 03–26–47–43–39 | www.hotel-azur-reims.com | 19 rooms | Closed 2 wks in late Dec.–early Jan. | No meals.

La Paix.

HOTEL | An antidote to historical overload, this contemporary eight-story Best Western-branded property, 10 minutes on foot from the cathedral, has modern furnishings, dramatic artworks, plus an up-to-date color palette (think mustard, aubergine, pomegranate, and cocoa). A heated indoor pool with Jacuzzi and hamam can be found at the back of a pretty garden. The brasserie-style restaurant serves mainly grilled meats and seafood. Pros: central location; stylish hotel bar; free Wi-Fi. Cons: often hosts corporate groups. | Rooms from: €170 | 9 rue Buirette | 03–26–40–04–08 | www.bestwestern-lapaix-reims.com | 165 rooms, 1 suite | No meals.

L’ÉPINE

56 km (35 miles) southeast of Reims via A4/D933, 7 km (4½ miles) east of Châlons via D933.

Legend has it that in the Middle Ages some shepherds herding their flock down from pasture found a statue of the Virgin in a burning thorn bush (épine). Their discovery triggered the building of a church—Basilique de Notre-Dame de l’Épine—which today looms over this otherwise uninspiring village.

Getting Here

Lying east of Châlons, L’Épine is best reached by car. If you don’t have your own, expect to pay about €20 for cab fare.

EXPLORING

Basilique de Notre-Dame de l’Épine.

Tiny L’Épine is dominated by its church, the twin-tower Flamboyant Gothic Basilique de Notre-Dame de l’Épine. The facade is a magnificent creation of intricate patterns and spires, and the interior exudes elegance and restraint. | Rue de l’Église | 03–26–66–96–98 | Free | Oct.–Mar., daily 9–7; Apr.–Sept., daily 8:30–7:30.

WHERE TO STAY

Aux Armes de Champagne.

B&B/INN | Guest rooms at this former coaching inn are furnished with traditional reproductions, wall hangings, and thick carpets, but the standout is the restaurant, with its renowned Champagne list and imaginative cuisine. Among the specialties are grilled scallops with mashed carrots and trompette de la mort mushrooms, roast pigeon in a grape juice sauce, and roast pork with artichoke coulis. Many rooms overlook a pretty church or a quiet garden; No. 21, with wood beams, is the most atmospheric. Pros: garden; friendly service; free breakfast and Wi-Fi. Cons: out-of-the-way location; the restaurant is closed Monday, and no dinner is served Sunday. | Rooms from: €115 | 31 av. du Luxembourg | 03–26–69–30–30 | www.aux-armes-de-champagne.com | 19 rooms, 2 suites | Closed mid-Feb.–mid-Mar. | Breakfast.

CHÂLONS-EN-CHAMPAGNE

7 km (4½ miles) west of L’Épine via D933, 34 km (21 miles) southeast of Épernay via D1003.

The administrative capital of the Marne and the Champagne region is famous for its Blanc de Blancs vineyards. The town center, crisscrossed with canals and streams, is a charming mix of half-timbered houses and riverside gardens; and several major churches bear eloquent testimony to Châlons’s medieval importance.

Getting Here

Trains from Paris (Gare de l’Est) leave for Châlons every 2 hours or so (€27); the 174-km (108-mile) trip takes around 1 hour, 30 minutes. There’s also limited TGV service from Paris: one train in the afternoon, one in the evening (1 hr, €42). There are four direct trains a day from Reims to Châlons-en-Champagne (40 mins, €10.80). Les Courriers de L’Aube (03–25–71–28–42 | www.courriersdelaube.fr) runs regular buses from Reims to Châlons-en-Champagne (1hr, €10). A great way to explore the town itself is by boat; tours are organized by the tourist office.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale St-Étienne.

The 13th-century Cathédrale St-Étienne is a harmonious structure with large nave windows and tidy flying buttresses; the exterior effect is marred only by the bulky 17th-century Baroque west front. | Rue de la Marne | July and Aug., Tues.–Sat. 10–noon and 2–6, Sun. 2:30–6; Oct.–Apr., weekends 2–4:30.

Notre-Dame-en-Vaux.

With its twin spires, Romanesque nave, and early Gothic choir and vaults, the church of Notre-Dame-en-Vaux is one of the most imposing in Champagne. The small museum beside the excavated cloister contains outstanding medieval statuary. | Rue Nicolas-Durand | 03–26–69–99–61 | €3.50 | Apr.–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6; Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Fri. 10–noon and 2–5, weekends 10–noon and 2–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Hôtel d’Angleterre.

HOTEL | Guests at this stylish spot in central Châlons can enjoy well-appointed rooms (think modern furniture, marble bathrooms, and either wood floors or plush carpets) along with outstanding dining options. The rooms in the back are quietest, while those on the upper level have the most atmosphere. In the stellar restaurant, with its starched white tablecloths (closed Sunday; no lunch Monday or Saturday), chef Jacky Michel’s creations include a salad of freshly-caught scallops with an oyster-infused dressing, as well as seasonal desserts like pear mille feuille with crème de marrons (a chestnut conserve). Cheaper fare is offered in the brasserie, Les Temps Changent. Breakfast is a superb buffet. Pros: finely modernized rooms; inventive cuisine. Cons: the hotel and restaurants are all closed Sunday; dinner service ends early. | Rooms from: €150 | 19 pl. Monseigneur-Tissier | 03–26–68–21–51 | www.hotel-dangleterre.fr | 25 rooms | Closed late July–mid-Aug.; late Dec.–early Jan.; and Sun. | No meals.

Hiking Champagne: Lift Your Spirits!

There’s nothing like getting out into Mother Nature to send the spirits soaring and, as it turns out, the region of Champagne is custom-made for easy and scenic hiking.

Just south of Reims rises the Montagne de Reims, a vast forested plateau on whose slopes grow the Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes used to make Champagne.

Several sentiers de Grandes Randonnées (long hiking trails; also known as GRs) run across the top of the plateau, burrowing through dense forest and looping around the edges.

For example, the GR141 and the GR14 form a loop more than 50 km (30 miles) long around the plateau’s eastern half, passing by several train stations en route.

You can access some of these hiking trails from the Rilly-la-Montagne, Avenay, and Ay stops on the Reims-Épernay rail line.

If you’re a serious hiker, make for the Ardennes region, which lies just to the northeast of Champagne.

ÉPERNAY

28 km (18 miles) south of Reims via D951; 35 km (24 miles) west of Châlons-en-Champagne via D1003; 50 km (31 miles) east of Château-Thierry via D1003.

Although Reims loudly proclaims itself to be the last word in Champagne production, Épernay—on the south bank of the Marne—is really the center of the bubbly drink’s spirit. It was here in 1741 that the first full-blown Champagne house, Moët (now Moët et Chandon), took the lifetime passion of Dom Pérignon and turned it into an industry. Unfortunately, no relation exists between the fabulous wealth of Épernay’s illustrious wine houses and the drab, dreary appearance of the town as a whole. Most Champagne firms—Moët et Chandon (20 av. de Champagne); Mercier (70 av. de Champagne); and De Castellane (57 rue de Verdun)—are spaced out along the long, straight avenue de Champagne, and although their names may provoke sighs of wonder, their facades are either functional or overly dressy.

Getting Here

Trains from Paris (Gare de l’Est) leave for Épernay every hour or so (€22.50); the 145-km (90-mile) trip takes around 1 hour, 15 minutes. Several trains daily link Épernay to Reims (25 mins, €6.60) and Châlons (15 mins, €6.40).

Visitor Information

Épernay Tourist Office. | 7 ave. Champagne | 03–26–53–33–00 | www.ot-epernay.fr.

EXPLORING

Hautvillers.

To understand how the region’s still wine became sparkling Champagne, head across the Marne to Hautvillers. Here Dom Pérignon (1638–1715)—a blind monk who was reputedly blessed with exceptional taste buds and a heightened sense of smell—invented Champagne as everyone knows it by using corks for stoppers and blending wines from different vineyards. Legend has it that upon his first sip he cried out, “Come quickly, I am drinking the stars.” Dom Pérignon’s simple tomb, in a damp, dreary Benedictine abbey church (now owned by Moët et Chandon), is a forlorn memorial to the man behind one of the world’s most exalted libations.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

La Cave à Champagne.

FRENCH | This convivial little restaurant in the center of Épernay serves authentic regional dishes with a refined twist at reasonable prices. Chef Bernard Ocio executes a perfect marriage of flavors by highlighting the local wines; classics include homemade foie gras cooked in ratafia de champagne, rump steak served with a Pinot Noir sauce, cod accompanied by a Chardonnay sauce, and the quintessential potée à la champenoise. There are also more rustic choices for the daring, such as snails in parsley butter and tête de veau. The desserts hold no surprises, so expect to see old favorites like pear poached in red wine and crème brûlée. TIP Reservations are essential on weekends. | Average main: €22 | 16 rue Gambetta | 03–26–55–50–70 | www.la-cave-a-champagne.com | Closed Wed. No dinner Tues.

La Briqueterie.

HOTEL | Épernay is short on good hotels, so it’s worth driving south to Vinay and booking into this luxurious manor, which has spacious accommodations, wonderful gardens, an indoor pool, plus a well-equipped spa. The guest rooms are individually decorated in lilac, blue floral, yellow and chocolate, all with carpeting; ask for one overlooking the extensive gardens. At the hotel restaurant Michael Nizzero, a young internationally-trained chef, adds an inventive touch to a menu of regional cuisine. Pros: pool has garden view; spa includes sauna and hamam facilities. Cons: rooms can be small; corporate feel (it hosts frequent business seminars). | Rooms from: €210 | 4 rte. de Sézanne, 6 km (4 miles) south of Épernay | Vinay | 03–26–59–99–99 | www.labriqueterie.fr | 36 rooms, 4 suites | Closed late Dec.–mid-Jan. | No meals.

CHÂTEAU-THIERRY

37 km (23 miles) east of Épernay via D1003.

Château-Thierry is best known as the birthplace of the French fabulist Jean de La Fontaine (1621–95). Built along the Marne River beneath the ruins of a hilltop castle that dates from the time of Joan of Arc, it’s within sight of the American Belleau Wood War Cemetery (open daily 9–5), which commemorates the 2,300 American soldiers slain here in 1918.

Getting Here

Château-Thierry is easily reached by train from Paris; 10 direct ones depart daily from Gare de l’Est (46 mins, €16.50).

EXPLORING

Musée Jean de La Fontaine.

Recently restored, the 16th-century mansion where La Fontaine was born and lived until 1676 is now a museum, furnished in the style of the 17th century. It contains La Fontaine’s bust, portrait, and baptism certificate, plus editions of his fables magnificently illustrated by Jean-Baptiste Oudry (1755) and Gustave Doré (1868). | 12 rue Jean-de-La-Fontaine | Cháteau-Thierry | 03–23–69–05–60 | www.musee-jean-de-la-fontaine.fr | €3.70 | Tues.–Sun. 9:30–noon and 2–5:30.

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Laon | Soissons | Amiens | Beauvais

Champagne’s eastern neighbor, the province of Picardy, located to the northeast of the region, is traversed by the Aisne and Oise rivers, and remains home to some of France’s greatest cathedrals. The hundreds of kilometers of chalk tunnels throughout northern France, some dug by the ancient Romans as quarries, may serve as the damp and moldy berth for millions of bottles of Champagne, but they also gave up tons of blocks to create other treasures of the region: the magical and magnificent Gothic cathedrals.

Here, in the wake of regal Reims, we visit four more of the most superlative: Amiens, the largest; Beauvais, the tallest; Laon, with the most towers and fantastic hilltop setting; and Soissons, beloved by Rodin. Add in those at St-Omer, St-Quentin, and Châlons-en-Champagne, along with the bijou churches in rue, St-Riquier, and L’Épine, and aficionados of medieval architecture may wish to explore the region more extensively, to follow the development of Gothic architecture from its debut at Noyon to its flamboyant finale at Abbeville, where, according to the 19th-century English essayist John Ruskin, Gothic “lay down and died.”

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LAON

66 km (41 miles) north of Château-Thierry via D1/N2, 52 km (32 miles) northwest of Reims.

Thanks to its awe-inducing hilltop site and the forest of towers sprouting from its ancient cathedral, lofty Laon basks in the title of the “Crowned Mountain.” The medieval ramparts, virtually undisturbed by passing traffic, provide a ready-made itinerary for a tour of old Laon. Panoramic views, sturdy gateways, and intriguing glimpses of the cathedral lurk around every bend. There’s even a funicular, which makes frequent trips (except on Sunday in winter) up and down the hillside between the station and the Vieille Ville (Old Town).

Getting Here

There are regular direct trains from Paris (Gare du Nord) to Laon (145 km/90 miles; 1 hour, 40 mins; €22.80). Trains departing nearly every hour also link Reims to Laon (40 mins, €9.90), and 10 run daily from Amiens (1 hr, 45 mins; €18).

Visitor Information

Laon Tourist Office. | Pl. du Parvis | 03–23–20–28–62 | www.tourisme-paysdelaon.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Cathédrale Notre-Dame.

Constructed between 1150 and 1230, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame is a superb example of early Gothic. The light interior gives the impression of order and immense length, and the first flourishing of Gothic architecture is reflected in the harmony of the four-tier nave: from the bottom up, observe the wide arcades, the double windows of the tribune, the squat windows of the triforium, and, finally, the upper windows of the clerestory. Medieval stained glass includes the rose window dedicated to the liberal arts in the left transept, and the windows in the flat east end, an unusual feature for France although common in England. The majestic towers can be explored during guided visits; these depart from the tourist office, which occupies a 12th-century hospital on the cathedral square. TIP Audioguides can be rented for €5. | Pl. du Parvis | Tours €5 | Cathedral daily 8:30–6:30. Tours July and Aug., daily 11:30, 2:30, and 4; June and Sept.–Dec., Fri.–Sun. 11:30, 2:30, and 4.

Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie.

Laon’s art and archeology museum has some fine 17th-century paintings by the celebrated Le Nain brothers (Antoine, Louis, and Mathieu, all of whom who were born here), as well as a collection of Mediterranean finds from the Bronze Age through the Gallo-Roman era that is second in importance only to that at the Louvre. The Chapelle des Templiers in the garden—a small, octagonal 12th-century chapel topped by a shallow dome—houses fragments of the cathedral’s gable and the chilling effigy of Guillaume de Harcigny, doctor to the insane king Charles VI. | 32 rue Georges-Ermant | 03–23–22–87–00 | www.ville-laon.fr | €4 | June–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 11–6; Oct.–May, Tues.–Sun. 2–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Bannière de France.

HOTEL | In business since 1685, this ancient hostelry is five minutes from the cathedral and welcomes visitors with its cozy accommodations and venerable dining room. Lieselotte Lefèvre, the German patronne, speaks fluent English. Rooms can be on the small side, so try to book No. 15, which is by far the largest. The restaurant’s dining room produces sturdy traditional cuisine (trout, lemon sole, guinea fowl) and good-value prix-fixe menus. Pros: comfy rooms; free breakfast and Wi-Fi. Cons: some rooms need modernizing; short on parking space. | Rooms from: €102 | 11 rue Franklin-Roosevelt | 03–23–23–21–44 | www.hoteldelabannieredefrance.com | 17 rooms | Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Jan | Breakfast.

SOISSONS

38 km (22 miles) southwest of Laon.

Although this was a major city in medieval times, the ravages of the French Revolution and World War I left little of it intact. Nowadays only the magnificent cathedral and the evocative ruins of its one-time abbey bear witness to Soissons’s illustrious past.

Getting Here

Trains from Paris Gare du Nord take 60 to 80 minutes (€14.70), while those from Laon take about 30 (€6.10).

Visitor Information

Soissons Tourist Office. | 16 pl. Fernand-Marquigny | 03–23–53–17–37 | www.tourisme-soissons.fr.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale Saint-Gervais Saint-Protais.

Rodin famously declared that “there are no hours in this cathedral, but rather eternity.” The Gothic interior, with its pure lines and restrained ornamentation, creates a more harmonious impression than the asymmetrical, one-tower facade. The most remarkable feature, however, is the rounded two-story transept, an element more frequently found in the German Rhineland than in France. Rubens’s Adoration of the Shepherds hangs on the other side of the transept. | Pl. Fernand-Marquigny | Tours €5 | Cathedral daily 9:30–noon and 2:30–5:30; tours mid-June–mid-Sept., daily at 2:30.

Musée de Soissons.

Partly housed in the medieval abbey of St-Léger, the town museum has a varied collection of local archaeological finds and paintings, with fine 19th-century works by Gustave Courbet and Eugène Boudin. | 2 rue de la Congrégation | 03–23–55–94–73 | www.musee-soissons.org | Free | Apr.–Sept., weekdays 9–noon and 2–6, weekends 2–7; Oct.–Mar., weekdays 9–noon and 2–5, weekends 2–6.

St-Jean-des-Vignes.

The twin-spire facade, arcaded cloister, and airy refectory are all that remain of this hilltop abbey church. Constructed between the 14th and 16th centuries, St-Jean-des-Vignes was largely dismantled just after the Revolution, and its fallen stones were used to restore the Cathédrale Saint-Gervais Saint-Potrais. Nevertheless, the church is still the most impressive sight in Soissons, the hollow of what was once its rose window peering out over the town like the eye of some giant Cyclops. | Cours St-Jean-des-Vignes | www.musee-soissons.org | Free | Daily 8–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Château de Courcelles.

HOTEL | Loaded with charm, this refined château by the Vesles River has a Louis XIV facade, and the classic exterior somehow harmonizes nicely with the sweeping brass main staircase attributed to Jean Cocteau. Guest rooms inside the château range from small-ish to generously proportioned; while the former outbuildings have been converted into large family-size suites. Wind down in the bar before enjoying excellent fare (including seasonal game) prepared by chef Thibaut Serin-Moulin and served up in the stately, 18th-century-style dining room. A formal garden and pool are the gateway to 40 acres of parkland and a tree-shaded canal. Pros: verdant setting; historic decor; welcomes families. Cons: accommodations vary in size and grandeur; no elevator. | Rooms from: €240 | 8 rue du Château, 20 km (12 miles) east of Soissons via N31 | Courcelles-sur-Vesles | 03–23–74–13–53 | www.chateau-de-courcelles.fr | 12 rooms, 6 suites | Some meals.

Amiens’s Architectural Terms

Consider these architectural terms before passing through Amiens’s main medieval portal (front door):

Chancel: The space around the altar that’s off-limits to everyone but the clergy. It’s at the east end of the church and sometimes blocked off by a rail.

Choir: The section of the church set off to seat the choir. It’s in the chancel.

Clerestory: The upper part of the church walls, typically lined with windows (often the stained-glass variety) to bathe the nave with light.

Crocket: Usually adorning a spire, pinnacle, or gable, this carved ornament often takes the form of foliage, such as acanthus leaves.

Crypt: An underground chamber usually used as a burial site and often found directly below a church’s nave.

Gable: The triangular upper portion of a wall comprising the area of a pitched roof.

Narthex: A hall leading from the main entrance to the nave.

Nave: The main section of the church that stretches from the chancel to the primary portal. This is where worshippers sit during services.

Pier: As opposed to a column, this is a solid masonry support, ranging from a simple square shape to a compound pier often comprised of several distinct subshafts.

Ribbed Vault: A distinct element of Gothic architecture made up of diagonal arches, called ribs, that spring from column to column to create an overhead framework. By transferring the weight of the building from the roof directly to the columns, they reduced the masonry needed for the exterior walls, enabling these to be filled with large (usually stained-glass) windows.

Trancept: The part of the church that extends outward at a right angle from the main body, creating a cruciform (cross-shape) plan.

Tympanum: A recessed triangular or semicircular space above the portal, often decorated with sculpture.

AMIENS

112 km (70 miles) northwest of Soissons via N31/D935, 58 km (36 miles) north of Beauvais via A16.

Although Amiens showcases some pretty brazen postwar reconstruction, epitomized by Auguste Perret’s 340-foot Tour Perret (a soaring concrete stump by the train station), the city is well worth exploring. It has lovely Art Deco buildings in its traffic-free center, as well as elegant, older stone structures like the 18th-century Beffroi (Belfry) and neoclassical prefecture. Crowning the city is its great Gothic cathedral, which has survived the ages intact. Nearby is the waterfront quarter of St-Leu—with its small, colorful houses—rivaling the squares of Arras and streets of old Lille as the cutest city district north of Paris.

Getting Here

Trains from Paris (Gare du Nord) leave for Amiens every hour or so (€21.60); the 129-km (80-mile) trip takes 1 hour, 10 minutes. There are two direct trains each day from Reims to Amiens (2 hrs, 14 mins; €25.80); and 10 trains daily connect Laon to Amiens (1 hr, 45 mins; €18). Buses operated by the CAB’ARO line (083–10–60–00–60 | www.cabaro.fr) make the 80-minute run between Beauvais and Amiens (Line 19) seven times daily (€11.50).

Visitor Information

Amiens Tourist Office. | Pl. Notre-Dame | 03–22–71–60–50 | www.amiens-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Cathédrale Notre-Dame d’Amiens.

By far the largest church in France, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame d’Amiens could enclose Paris’s Notre-Dame twice. It may lack the stained glass of Chartres or the sculpture of Reims, but for architectural harmony, engineering proficiency, and sheer size, it’s without peer. The soaring, asymmetrical facade has a notable Flamboyant Gothic rose window and is brought to life on summer evenings when a sophisticated 45-minute light show re-creates its original color scheme. Inside, there’s no stylistic disunity to mar the perspective, creating an overwhelming sensation of pure space. Construction took place between 1220 and 1264, a remarkably short period in cathedral-building terms. One of the highlights of a visit here is hidden from the eye, at least until you lift up some of the 110 choir-stall seats and admire the humorous, skillful misericord seat carvings executed between 1508 and 1518. | Pl. Notre-Dame | 03–22–92–03–32 cathedral, 03–22–80–03–41 tours | cathedrale-amiens.monuments-nationaux.fr | Free; tours €5.50 | Wed.–Mon. 8:30–6.15 (5:15 Oct.–Mar.).

Hortillonnages.

Situated on the east side of town, the Hortillonnages are commercial water gardens—covering more than 700 acres—where vegetables have been cultivated since Roman times. Every Saturday the products grown here are sold at the water market in the Saint Leu district. There’s a 45-minute boat tour of these aquatic jewels. | Boats leave from 54 bd. de Beauvillé | 03–22–92–12–18 | €5.90 | Apr.–Oct., daily 1:30–5.

Maison Jules-Verne.

Jules Verne (1828–1905) lived in Amiens for the last 35 years of his life, and his former home contains some 15,000 documents about his life as well as original furniture and a reconstruction of the writing studio where he created his science-fiction classics. | 2 rue Charles-Dubois | 03–22–45–45–75 | €7.50 | Mid-Apr.–mid-Oct., Mon., Wed.–Fri. 10–12:30 and 2–6:30, Tues. 2–6:30, weekends 11–6:30; mid-Oct.–mid-Apr., Mon., Wed.–Fri. 10–12:30 and 2–6, weekends 2–6.

Musée de Picardie.

Behind an opulent columned facade, the Musée de Picardie, built 1855–67, looks like a pompous offering from the Second Empire. Initial impressions are hardly challenged by the grand staircase lined with marouflaged murals by local-born Puvis de Chavannes, or the Grand Salon hung with huge canvases like Gérôme’s 1855 Siècle d’Auguste and Maignan’s 1892 La Mort de Carpeaux. One step beyond, though, and you’re in a rotunda painted top to bottom in modern minimalist fashion by Sol LeWitt. The basement, notable for its masterly brick vaulting, is filled with subtly lighted archaeological finds and Egyptian artifacts. The ground floor houses 18th- and 19th-century paintings by artists such as Fragonard and Boucher. TIP Major renovations are underway, so parts of the museum may be closed to the public until 2017. | 48 rue de la République | 03–22–97–14–00 | www.amiens.fr/musees | €5.50 | Tues., Fri., and Sat. 10–noon and 2–6, Wed. 10–6, Thurs. 10–noon and 2–9, Sun. 2–7.

WHERE TO EAT

Les Marissons.

MODERN FRENCH | This picturesque waterside restaurant occupies an elegantly transformed boatbuilding shed in the scenic St-Leu section of Amiens. Chef Guillaume Grain offers creative takes on foie gras and regional ingredients—eel from Haute-Somme, Amiens duck, and lamb raised at the Baie de Somme among them. In season there is a special Picardie truffle menu. The specialties are homemade Amiens duck pâté and beef flambéed in whisky. TIP To avoid pricey à la carte dining, order from the prix-fixe menus. | Average main: €32 | Pont de la Dodone,68 rue des Marissons | 03–22–92–96–66 | www.les-marissons.fr | Closed Sun. and 3 wks in May. No lunch Wed. or Sat.

THE ARTS

Théâtre de Marionnettes.

Come to Théâtre de Marionnettes for a rare glimpse at traditional Picardy puppetry—known locally as Chés Cabotans d’Amiens. Shows are performed in French, with plot synopses printed in English; they’re usually held on Sunday afternoons at 3, September through mid-July, and Tuesday to Sunday at 6, from mid-July through August. | 31 rue Edouard-David | 03–22–22–30–90 | www.ches-cabotans-damiens.com | €5–€10.

BEAUVAIS

56 km (35 miles) south of Amiens via A16, 96 km (60 miles) west of Soissons.

Beauvais and its neighbor Amiens have been rivals since the 13th century, when they locked horns over who could build the bigger cathedral. Beauvais lost—gloriously.

Getting Here

Flights land at the Aéroport de Beauvais-Tillé; an airport bus (municipal line No. 12) stops in the town center and train station (20 mins; €4.50 for a 48-hour ticket).Trains from Paris (Gare du Nord) leave for Beauvais every hour (€15.20), with the 80-km (50-mile) trip taking around 1 hour, 15 minutes. Buses operated by the CAB’ARO line (08–10–60–00–60 | www.cabaro.fr) run between Amiens and Beauvais seven times daily; the 80-minute trip costs €11.50.

Visitor Information

Beauvais Tourist Office. | 1 rue Beauregard | 03–44–15–30–30 | www.beauvaistourisme.fr.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Cathédrale St-Pierre.

Soaring above the town center is the tallest cathedral in France: the Cathédrale St-Pierre. You may have an attack of vertigo just gazing up at its vaults, 153 feet above the ground. Despite its grandeur, the cathedral has a shaky past. The choir collapsed in 1284, shortly after completion, and was rebuilt with extra pillars. This engineering fiasco, paid for by the riches of Beauvais’s wool industry, proved so costly that the transept was not attempted until the 16th century. It was worth the wait: an outstanding example of Flamboyant Gothic, with ornate rose windows flanked by pinnacles and turrets. However, a megalomaniacal 450-foot spire erected at the same time came crashing down after just four years, and Beauvais’s dream of having the largest church in Christendom vanished forever. Now the cathedral is starting to lean, and cracks have appeared in the choir vaults because of shifting water levels in the soil. No such problems bedevil the Basse Oeuvre (Lower Edifice; closed to the public), which juts out impertinently where the nave should have been. It has been there for 1,000 years. Fittingly donated to the cathedral by the canon Étienne Musique, the oldest surviving chiming clock in the world—a 1302 model with a 15th-century painted wooden face and most of its original clockwork—is built into the wall of the cathedral. Perhaps Auguste Vérité drew his inspiration from this humbler timepiece when, in 1868, he made a gift to his hometown of the gilded, temple-like astrological clock (€4; displays at 10:40, 11:40, 2:40, 3:40, and 4:40), which features animated religious figurines representing the Last Judgment. | Rue St-Pierre | www.cathedrale-beauvais.fr | May and Oct., daily 9–12:30 and 2–6:30; June–Sept., daily 9–6.30; Nov.–Apr., daily 9–12:30 and 2–5:30.

Musée Départemental de l’Oise (Regional Museum).

One of the few remaining testaments to Beauvais’s glorious past, the old Bishop’s Palace is now the Musée Départemental de l’Oise. Don’t miss Thomas Couture’s epic canvas of the French Revolution, the 14th-century frescoes of instrument-playing sirens on a section of the palace’s vaults, or the first-century brass Guerrier Gaulois (Gallic Warrior). | 1 rue du Musée | 03–44–11–43–83 | www.oise.fr | Free | Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Zinc Bleu.

BRASSERIE | This lively brasserie opposite Beauvais cathedral offers sturdy if unadventurous fare (duck, steak, and the like) along with a wide variety of fresh seafood. There is a good selection of copiously sized salads, too. The dining room has light wooden tables and bright modern pictures, but the openwork metal chairs can be a bit tough on the back, so mark this down as a lunch spot rather than a place to linger over dinner. TIP Ask for a table under the glass-capped veranda or on the sidewalk terrace if the weather’s good. | Average main: €18 | 61 rue St-Pierre | 03–44–45–18–30 | No dinner Sun.–Thurs.

L’Ecume du Jour.

BISTRO | Half community-run café, half art gallery (and fair-trade products boutique), this spot near the train station has a friendly, bohemian vibe and is a great place to stop for a cool drink or a simple meal. After enjoying your repas on the pretty mosaic tiled tables, head past the outdoor patio to the covered barn for the ever-changing art exhibitions. | Average main: €12 | 5 rue du Faubourg St-Jacques | 03–44–02–07–37 | www.ecumedujour.org | No credit cards | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Chenal Hotel.

HOTEL | There are few hotels in central Beauvais and this four-square street-corner establishment—being close to the train station, a 10-minute walk from the cathedral, and served by a shuttle bus from the Beauvais airport—is perhaps the most convenient choice. Guest rooms are light and soberly decorated, if on the small side. Pros: free Wi-Fi; convenient location. Cons: small rooms; lacks charm. | Rooms from: €109 | 63 bd. Général-de-Gaulle | 03–44–06–04–60 | www.chenalhotel.fr | 29 rooms | No meals.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Alsace-Lorraine

Nancy

Lorraine: Joan of Arc Country

Strasbourg

Alsace

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner | Dining in Alsace-Lorraine | Follow the Wines

Updated by Lyn Parry

Only the Rhine separates Germany from Alsace-Lorraine, a region that often looks German and even sounds German. But its heart—just to prove how deceptive appearances can be—is passionately French. One has only to remember that Strasbourg was the birthplace of the Marseillaise national anthem to appreciate why Alsace and Lorraine remain among the most intensely French of all France’s provinces.

No matter how forcefully the French tout its Frenchness, though, Alsace’s German roots do run deep, as one look at its storybook medieval architecture reveals. Gabled, half-timber houses, ornate wells and fountains, oriels (upstairs bay windows), storks’ nests, and carved-wood balustrades—all calling to mind the Brothers Grimm—will satisfy a visitor’s deepest craving for Old World Germanic atmosphere. Strasbourg, perhaps France’s most fascinating city outside Paris, offers this and urban sophistication as well.

Lorraine, on the other hand, has suffered a decline in its northern industry and the miseries of its small farmers have left much of it tarnished and neglected—or, as others might say, kept it unspoiled. Yet Lorraine’s rich caches of verdure, its rolling countryside dotted with mirabelle (plum) orchards and crumbling-stucco villages, abbeys, fortresses, and historic cities, such as Art Nouveau–ed Nancy, offer a truly French view of life in the north. Its borders flank Belgium, Luxembourg, and Germany’s mellow Mosel (Moselle in French). Home of Baccarat and St-Louis crystal (thanks to limitless supplies of firewood from the Vosges Forest), the birthplace of Gregorian chant, Art Nouveau, and Joan of Arc, Lorraine-the-underdog has much of its own to contribute.

The question remains: Who put the hyphen in Alsace-Lorraine? Alsace’s strip of vine-covered hills squeezed between the Rhine and the Vosges Mountains started out being called Prima Germania by the Romans, and belonged to the fiercely Germanic Holy Roman Empire for more than 700 years. West of the Vosges, Lorraine served under French and Burgundian lords as well as the Holy Roman Empire, coming into its own under the powerful and influential dukes of Lorraine in the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Stanislas, the duke of Lorraine who transformed Nancy into a cosmopolitan Paris of the East, was Louis XV’s father-in-law. Thus Lorraine’s culture evolved as decidedly less German than its neighbor to the southeast.

But then, in the late 19th century, Kaiser Wilhelm sliced off the Moselle chunk of Lorraine and sutured it, à la Dr. Frankenstein, to Alsace, claiming the unfortunate graft as German turf—a concession after France’s 1871 surrender in the Franco-Prussian War. At that point the region was systematically Teutonized—architecturally, linguistically, culinarily (“Ve haff our own vays of cookink sauerkraut!”)—and the next two generations grew up culturally torn. Until 1918, that is, when France undid its defeat and reclaimed its turf. Until 1940, when Hitler snatched it back and reinstated German textbooks in the primary schools. Until 1945, when France once again triumphantly raised the bleu-blanc-rouge over Strasbourg. Today, the regions remain both officially and proudly French.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Follow the wine road: Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr, a pair of medieval villages filled with “Hansel and Gretel” houses and bottle-laden cellars, are at the heart of the Alsatian wine route.

Be enchanted by Colmar: After two world wars Colmar rebuilt itself—today the mazelike cobblestone streets and Petite Venise waterways of its Vieille Ville are as atmospheric as ever.

Get an architectural eyeful in Nancy: Classic 18th-century elegance and fanciful Art Nouveau innovation meet reminders of the medieval past in this city.

Pay tribute to Joan of Arc: If you’re a fan of Jeanne d’Arc, you’ve come to the right place; she was born right here in Domrémy-la-Pucelle.

Discover the charms of Strasbourg, capital of Alsace: The symbolic capital of Europe is a cosmopolitan French city rivaled only by Paris in its medieval allure, history, and haute cuisine.

GETTING ORIENTED

Bordered by Germany, Alsace-Lorraine has often changed hands between the two countries in the past 350 years. This back-and-forth has left a mark—you’ll find that Germanic half-timber houses sometimes clash with a very French café scene. Art also pays homage to both nations, as you can see in the museums of Strasbourg, Alsace’s hub. Westward lies Lorraine, birthplace of Joan of Arc (and the famous quiche). Due west of Strasbourg on the other side of the Vosges Mountains, the main city of Nancy entices with Art Nouveau and grand 18th-century architecture.

WHAT’S WHERE

Nancy. When Stanislas Leszczynski, ex-king of Poland, succeeded in marrying his daughter to Louis XV, he paid homage to the monarch by transforming Nancy into another Versailles, embellishing it with elegant showstoppers like place Stanislas. Elsewhere in the city, you can sate your appetite for the best Art Nouveau at the Musée École de Nancy and the Villa Majorelle—after all, the style originated here.

Lorraine. In long-neglected Lorraine, many make the pilgrimage to Joan of Arc Country. The faithful, feisty teen, who went on to become one of France’s patron saints, was born in Domrémy in the early 1400s; and nearby spots like Vaucouleurs featured prominently in her short but inspiring life story. If you listen carefully, you might hear the church bells in which Joan discerned voices challenging her to save France.

Strasbourg. An appealing combination of medieval alleys, international think tanks, and the European Parliament, Strasbourg is best loved for the villagelike atmosphere of La Petite France, the looming presence of the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame, the rich museums, and the local libations served in its winstubs (wine-bistros, pronounced veen-shtoob).

Alsace. Tinged with a German flavor, Alsace is a never-ending procession of colorful towns and villages, many fitted out with spires, gabled houses, and storks’ nests in chimney pots. Here you can find the Route du Vin, the famous Alsatian Wine Road, with its vineyards of Riesling and Gewurztraminer. This conveniently heads south to Colmar, where the half-timber buildings of the centre ville seem cut out of a child’s coloring book. The town’s main treasure is Grünewald’s unforgettable 16th-century Issenheim Altarpiece.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

Alsace is blessed with four distinct seasons and one of the lowest rainfalls in all of France—so anytime at all is the right time to visit. Snow in winter adds magic to the Christmas markets; spring brings forth the scent of burgeoning grape flowers as the world turns green with life; summer can be warm, which rhymes with swarm; autumn is nature’s symphony of color—the leaves of tree and vine become a riot of golden yellows and oranges, as the bountiful grapes are harvested.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

If an overall experience is what you’re after, setting up headquarters in Strasbourg or Colmar will give you the best access to the greatest number of sites, either by public transport or car, while also residing in one. If wine tasting and vineyards are your priority, setting up in either Riquewihr or Ribeauvillé will put you at the heart of the action. Remember that many of the region’s towns and villages stage summer festivals—among them the spectacular pagan-inspired burning of the three pine trees in Thann (late June), the Flower Carnival in Sélestat (mid-August), and the wine fair in Colmar (first half of August). And although Lorraine is a lusterless place in winter, Strasbourg pays tribute to the Germanic tradition with a Christmas fair.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Alsace is a small region and fairly well interconnected with bus and train routes, making it possible to travel extensively by public transportation. Be sure to stock up on information (schedules, the best taxi-for-call companies, etc.) upon arriving at the ticket counter or help desk of the bigger train and bus stations in the area, such as Nancy, Strasbourg, and Colmar. In Alsace, trains are the way to go. In Lorraine you may need to take short bus jaunts to the smaller towns. If you’re relying on trains, download the handy widgets from the TER website at www.ter-sncf.com. A useful up-to-date website with details on buses and trams is www.vialsace.eu. Unfortunately, schedules change rather frequently in Alsace-Lorraine.

Air Travel

International flights connect with Entzheim, near Strasbourg. Train service (€4) from the main line station in Strasbourg runs to the airport every 10 minutes on weekdays, and every half hour on weekends.

Aéroport International Strasbourg. | Rte. de Strasbourg, 15 km (9½ miles) southwest of city | Entzheim | 03–88–64–67–67 | www.strasbourg.aeroport.fr.

Bus Travel

The two main bus companies are Les Rapides de Lorraine, based in Metz, and Compagnie des Transports Strasbourgeois, based in Strasbourg. Nancy, Strasbourg, and Colmar all have civic transit systems, too.

Compagnie des Transports Strasbourgeois (CTS). | Strasbourg | 03–88–77–70–70 | www.cts-strasbourg.fr.

Les Rapides de Lorraine. | Metz | 03–87–63–65–65, 03–87–75–26–62 Agence Ted and TIM for ticket information and tariffs | www.rapidesdelorraine.fr.

Car Travel

A4 heads east from Paris to Strasbourg, via Verdun, Metz, and Saverne. It’s met by A26, descending from the English Channel, at Reims. A31 links Metz to Nancy, continuing south to Burgundy and Lyon. D1083/D83/A35 connects Strasbourg, Colmar, and Mulhouse. A36 continues to Belfort and Besançon. A4, linking Paris to Strasbourg, passes through Lorraine via Metz, linking Lorraine and Alsace. Picturesque secondary roads lead from Nancy through Joan of Arc country. Several scenic roads climb switchbacks over forested mountain passes through the Vosges, connecting Lorraine to Alsace. A quicker alternative is the tunnel under the Vosges at Ste-Marie-aux-Mines, linking Sélestat to Lunéville. Alsace’s Route du Vin, winding from Marlenheim, in the north, all the way south to Thann, is the ultimate in scenic driving.

Train Travel

More than a dozen high-speed TGVs per day leave Paris’s Gare de l’Est for Strasbourg, making the journey in 2 hours, 20 minutes. Another nine depart from the same station bound for Nancy, with a travel time of about 90 minutes; and four daily direct TGVs head to Colmar, arriving in just under three hours. A network of regional trains and buses links popular locales (like Ribeauvillé or Obernai), but you’ll need a car to visit the smallest villages.

Train Information

Gare SNCF Colmar. | 9 pl. de la Gare, | Colmar | 3635 €0.34 per min.

Gare SNCF Nancy. | 3 pl. Thiers, | Nancy | 3635 €0.34 per min.

Gare SNCF Strasbourg. | 20 pl. de la Gare, | Strasbourg | 3635 €0.34 per min.

SNCF. | 3635 €0.34 per min | www.voyages-sncf.com.

TGV. | www.tgv.com.

RESTAURANTS

Strasbourg and Nancy may be two of France’s more expensive cities, but you wouldn’t know it judging by all the down-to-earth eating spots with down-to-earth prices—most notably winstubs, which are cozier and more wine-oriented than the usual French brasserie. In Strasbourg and Nancy, as well as the villages along Alsace’s wine road, you’ll need to arrive early (soon after noon for lunch, before 8 for dinner) to be sure of a restaurant table in July and August. Out-of-season is a different matter throughout.

HOTELS

Alsace-Lorraine is well served in terms of accommodations. From the picturesque village inns of the Route du Vin and the “Fermes Auberges” of the Vosges to four-star palaces or international-style hotels in the main cities of Nancy and Strasbourg, the range is vast. Since much of Alsace is in the “countryside” there’s also a range of gîtes, self-catering cottages or houses that provide a base for longer stays (www.gites-de-france.com). Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

The Alsace-Lorraine region has three main area tourist offices, all of which can be contacted by telephone, mail, or email. For the Alsace area, contact the Comité Régional du Tourisme d’Alsace. For Lorraine, contact the Comité Régional du Tourisme de Lorraine. For the city of Strasbourg and its environs, contact the Office de Tourisme de Strasbourg et Sa Region.

Contacts

Comité Régional du Tourisme d’Alsace. | 20A rue Berthe Molly, | Colmar | 03–89–24–73–50 | www.tourisme-alsace.com.

Comité Régional du Tourisme de Lorraine. | Abbaye des Prémontrés, | Pont-à-Mousson | 03–83–80–01–80 | www.tourisme-lorraine.fr.

Office de Tourisme de Strasbourg et Sa Région. | 17 pl. de la Cathédrale, | Strasbourg | 03–88–52–28–28 | www.otstrasbourg.fr.

DINING IN ALSACE-LORRAINE

Bountiful is the watchword in this region where lush vineyards flourish, vintage winstubs serve heaping platters of choucroute garnie (sauerkraut, meat, and potatoes), and restaurants boast more Michelin stars than anywhere else in France.

A visit to the proud region of Alsace promises sensory overload: gorgeous vistas, antique walled towns, satisfying meals—from farm-style to richly gastronomic—and, of course, superb wines. The predominantly white varietals, such as Riesling and Pinot Gris, complement the rich and varied old-school cooking. It’s not for nouvelle-style or fusion dishes that you come to Alsace: tradition is king here, and copious is an understatement. Rustic regional fare includes hearty stews, custardy quiches, sauerkraut platters, and the thin-crusted onion tarts known as flammekueche. Also to be savored are some of the best restaurants in France—among them the noble, romantic L’Auberge de L’Ill in Illhausern, where a salmon soufflé with a Riesling reduction might catch your fancy.

FOLLOW THE WINES

Alsace is one of France’s most important but least-known wine-producing regions, where vintners designate wines by varietals, not by town or château. Look for distinctive whites, like full-bodied Pinot Gris, fruity Sylvaner, citrusy Riesling, and spicy Gewurztraminer. In reds, Pinot Noir stands alone. Top producers include Hugel et Fils, Rolly Gassmann, F.E. Trimbach, de Ribeauvillé, Léon Beyer, and Zind-Humbrecht.

Kougelhopf

This tall, fluted, crown-shape cake, dusted with sugar and studded with raisins and almonds, beckons invitingly from every pastry-shop window in the region. You won’t resist. The delicately sweet, yeast-based dough is kneaded and proofed, baked in a Bundt-style mold, and traditionally served, sometimes sprinkled with kirsch, at Sunday breakfast. Locals say it’s even better on the second day, when it achieves a perfect, slightly dry texture.

Choucroute Garnie

Daunting in size, a heaping platter of choucroute garnie, laden with fermented sauerkraut, smoked bacon, ham, pork shoulder, sausages, and potatoes, is the signature dish of the region. The best places serving it, usually winstubs such as the atmospheric Zum Pfifferhüs in Ribeauvillé, are worth a detour. You’ve never had sauerkraut like this, tender and delicate, dotted with juniper berries and often cooked with a splash of Riesling or Sylvaner white wine. Complement your choucroute with the region’s own sweet white mustard.

Munster Cheese

This round, semisoft cow’s-milk cheese with the orange rind, distinctive nutty aroma, and pungent flavor is Alsace’s only claim to cheese fame, but it’s a standout. The cheese, which is aged from five weeks to three months, originated in the Vosges valley town of Munster, just west of Colmar, and the best—farm produced—come from this area. Sample it with fresh cherries or pears, thin-sliced rye bread, and a glass of Gewurztraminer.

Foie Gras

The production sure ain’t pretty, but the product is sublime—satiny, opulent goose foie gras. Many gastronomes believe that Alsace produces the best in the world. The meltingly tender, fattened livers of plump Alsatian geese are prepared in a number of luscious ways: wrapped in a towel and gently poached—the classic à la torchon method; panfried and served on a slice of toasted gingerbread; wrapped in puff pastry and baked; or pressed into terrines and pâtés.

Baeckeoffe

You can’t get much heartier or homier than this baked casserole of pork, lamb, and beef marinated in white wine and slow-cooked in a terra-cotta pot with potatoes, onions, garlic, and herbs. The name—pronounced “bake-eh oaf-eh”—means “baker’s oven” in the Germanic Alsatian dialect. It was so named because this was a dish traditionally assembled at home, then carried to the local baker to cook in his hot ovens. It’s soul-warming fare for a chilly evening.

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The Historic Center | Art Nouveau Nancy | Nightlife and the Arts | Shopping

For architectural variety, few French locales match this one in the heart of Lorraine, 300 km (190 miles) east of Paris. Medieval ornamentation, 18th-century grandeur, and Belle Époque fluidity rub shoulders in the city center, where the bustle of commerce mingles with stately elegance. Nancy’s majesty derives from its long history as the domain of the powerful dukes of Lorraine, whose double-barred crosses figure prominently on local statues and buildings. Never having fallen under the rule of the Holy Roman Empire or the Germans, the city retains an eminently Gallic charm that’s exemplified by harmoniously constructed squares and buildings. Vestiges of the 18th century, these have the quiet refinement associated with the best in French architecture.

Ironically, a Pole was responsible for most of them. Stanislas Leszczynski, the ex-king of Poland and father of Maria Leszczynska (who married Louis XV of France) was given the Duchy of Lorraine by his royal son-in-law on the understanding that it would revert to France when he died. Stanislas installed himself in Nancy and devoted himself to the glorious embellishment of the city. Today place Stanislas remains one of the loveliest and most perfectly proportioned squares in the world, with place de la Carrière—reached through Stanislas’s Arc de Triomphe—with its elegant, homogeneous 18th-century houses, being a close rival for this honor.

Nancy 1900

History has a curious way of having similar events take place at the same time in different places. The creation of the Art Nouveau movement is one such event. Simultaneously emerging from the Pre-Raphaelite, High Victorian, and Arts and Crafts movements in England, it was also a synthesis of the Jugenstil (Youth style) movement in Germany; the Skonvirke movement in Denmark; the Mloda Polska (Young Poland) movement in Poland; Secessionism in Vienna, exemplified by the paintings of Gustav Klimt; and Modernism in Spain, centered around Gaudi’s outlandish architectural achievements in Barcelona. Its fluid, undulating, organic forms drawn from the natural world (picture seaweed, grasses, flowers, birds, and insects) also drew inspiration from Symbolism, Japanese woodcuts, and assorted other sources.

One of its founding centers was Nancy, which at the time was drawing the wealthy French bourgeoisie of Alsace, recently invaded by Germany, who refused to become German. Proud of their opulence, they had sublime houses built that were entirely furnished—from simple vases and wrought-iron beds to bathtubs in the shape of lily pads—in the pure Art Nouveau style.

Emile Gallé (1846–1904), the driving force behind Nancy’s Art Nouveau movement, called on his fellow artists to follow examples in nature (as opposed to the Greek or Roman models then in favor) and aim for innovation. Working primarily in glass and inventing new, patented techniques, Gallé brought luxury craftsmanship to a whole range of everyday products, thus reestablishing the link between the ordinary and the exceptional. This was a major advance on the bourgeois bad taste for mass-produced pieces of dubious quality that imitated styles of the past.

Everywhere stylized flowers suddenly became the preferred motif. The tree and its leaves, and plants with their flowers, were modified, folded, and curled to the artist’s demand. Among the main Art Nouveau emblems figure the lily, the iris, morning glory, bracken fern, poppies, peacocks, birds that feed on flowers, ivy, dragonflies, butterflies, and anything that evokes the immense poetry of the seasons. It reveals a world that is as fragile as it is precious.

By giving an artistic quality to manufactured objects, Gallé and the other creators of the École de Nancy accomplished a dream that had been growing since the romantic generation of Victorian England of making an alliance between art and industry. As a meeting point for the hopes and interests of artists, intellectuals, industrials, and merchants, the École de Nancy was a thoroughly global phenomenon. From Chicago to Turin, Munich to Brussels, and on to London, the industries of Nancy went on to conquer the world.

Getting Here and Around

Nancy, the jewel in Lorraine’s tourism crown, has benefited greatly from the introduction of the TGV Est European service. Nine direct TGVs depart daily from Paris’s Gare de l’Est, arriving about 90 minutes later. Four others take over an hour longer; three involve a change in Metz and one in Bar Le Duc. One-way fares vary from €33 to €80 depending on the train type, time of day, and how far in advance you book. Eleven direct trains also depart daily for Strasbourg (€24.80), and roughly every 20 minutes one leaves for Metz (€10.60). Once in Nancy, you’ll find that the central core is manageable on foot, but it still helps to get acquainted with Stan (03–83–30–08–08 | www.reseau-stan.com) and Ted (08–20–20–54–54 | www.ted.cg54.fr). The former, Nancy’s public transit system, has convenient buses and trams; the latter is a 40-line bus service that covers the entire département for a €2.50 flat rate.

Visitor Information

Nancy Tourist Office. | 14 pl. Stanislas | 03–83–35–22–41 | www.nancy-tourisme.fr.

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THE HISTORIC CENTER

Concentrated northeast of the train station, this neighborhood—rich in architectural treasures as well as museums—includes classical place Stanislas and the shuttered, medieval Vieille Ville.

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Cathédrale.

This vast, frigid edifice was built in the 1740s in a ponderous Baroque style, eased in part by the florid ironwork of Jean Lamour. The most notable interior feature is a murky 19th-century fresco in the dome. The Trésor (Treasury) contains minute 10th-century splendors carved of ivory and gold but is only open to the public on rare occasions. | Rue St-Georges, Ville Neuve.

Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires (Museum of Folk Arts and Traditions).

Just up the street from the Palais Ducal, this quirky museum is in the Couvent des Cordeliers (Convent of the Franciscans, who were known as Cordeliers until the Revolution). Displays re-create how local people lived in preindustrial times, using a series of evocative rural interiors. Craftsmen’s tools, colorful crockery, somber stone fireplaces, and dark waxed-oak furniture accent the tableaulike settings. The dukes of Lorraine are buried in the crypt of the adjoining Église des Cordeliers, a Flamboyant Gothic church; the detailed gisant (reclining statue) of Philippa de Gueldra, second wife of René II, is executed in limestone and serves as a moving example of Renaissance portraiture. The octagonal Ducal Chapel was begun in 1607 in the Renaissance style, modeled on the Medici Chapel in Florence. | 64 Grande-Rue, Vieille Ville | 03–83–32–18–74 | www.1nancy.fr | €3.50 | Tues.–Sun. 10–12:30 and 2–6.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

In a splendid building that now spills over into a spectacular modern wing, a broad and varied collection of art treasures lives up to the noble white facade designed by Emmanuel Héré. The showpiece is Rubens’s massive Transfiguration, and among the most striking works are the freeze-the-moment realist tableaux painted by native son Émile Friant at the turn of the 20th century. A sizable collection of Lipschitz sculptures includes portrait busts of Gertrude Stein, Jean Cocteau, and Coco Chanel. You’ll also find 19th- and 20th-century paintings by Monet, Manet, Utrillo, and Modigliani; a Caravaggio Annunciation and a wealth of other old masters from the Italian, Dutch, Flemish, and French schools; and impressive glassworks by Nancy native Antonin Daum. TIP Audioguides (1€) in English are available at reception. | 3 pl. Stanislas, Ville Royale | 03–83–85–30–72 | mban.nancy.fr | €6 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

Palais Ducal (Ducal Palace).

Built in the 13th century, completely restored in the 15th century and again after a fire at the end of the 19th century, this palace originally housed the Dukes of Lorraine. Now it is home to the Musée Lorrain. A major renovation project means the museum is closed to the public until 2017; however, you can still admire the palace’s stunning architecture from the outside. One wing is a spectacular example of Flamboyant Gothic. | 64 Grande-Rue, Vieille Ville | 03–83–32–18–74.

Place Stanislas.

With its severe, gleaming-white Classical facades given a touch of Rococo jollity by fanciful wrought gilt-iron railings, this perfectly proportioned square may remind you of Versailles. It is named for Stanislas Leszczynski, twice dethroned as king of Poland but offered the Duchy of Lorraine by Louis XV (his son-in-law) in 1736. Stanislas left a legacy of spectacular buildings, undertaken between 1751 and 1760 by architect Emmanuel Héré and ironwork genius Jean Lamour. The sculpture of Stanislas dominating the square went up in the 1830s. Framing the exit, and marking the divide between the Vieille Ville and the Ville Neuve (New Town), is the Arc de Triomphe, erected in the 1750s to honor Louis XV. The facade trumpets the gods of war and peace; Louis’s portrait is here. | Ville Royale.

WORTH NOTING

FAMILY | La Pépinière.

This picturesque, landscaped city park has labeled ancient trees, a rose garden, playgrounds, a carousel, and a small zoo. | Entrance off Pl. de la Carrière, Vieille Ville.

Place de la Carrière.

Lined with pollarded trees and handsome 18th-century mansions (another successful collaboration between King Stanislas and Emmanuel Héré), this UNESCO World Heritage Site’s elegant rectangle leads from Place Stanislas to the colonnaded facade of the Palais du Gouvernement (Government Palace), former home of the governors of Lorraine. | Vieille Ville.

Porte de la Craffe.

A fairy-tale vision out of the late Middle Ages, this 14th- and 15th-century gate is all that remains of Nancy’s medieval fortifications. With its twin turrets looming at one end of the Grande-Rue, the arch served as a prison through the Revolution. Above the main portal is the Lorraine Cross, comprising a thistle and cross. | Vieille Ville.

St-Epvre.

A 275-foot spire towers over this splendid neo-Gothic church, completed in 1451 and rebuilt in the 1860s. Most of the 2,800 square yards of stained glass were created by the Geyling workshop in Vienna; the chandeliers were made in Liège, Belgium; many carvings are the work of Margraff of Munich; the heaviest of the eight bells was cast in Budapest; and the organ, though manufactured by Merklin of Paris, was inaugurated in 1869 by Austrian composer Anton Bruckner. | Pl. St-Epvre, Vieille Ville | Daily 10–6.

ART NOUVEAU NANCY

Think Art Nouveau, and many will conjure up the rich salons of Paris’s Maxim’s restaurant, the lavender-hue Prague posters of Alphonse Mucha, or the stained-glass dragonflies and opalescent vases that, to this day, remain the darlings of such collectors as Barbra Streisand. All of that beauty was born, to a great extent, in 19th-century Nancy. Inspired and coordinated by the glass master Émile Gallé, the local movement was formalized in 1901 as L’École de Nancy—from here, it spread like wildfire through Europe, from Naples to Monte-Carlo to Prague. The ensuing flourish encompassed the floral pâte de verre (literally, “glass dough”) works of Gallé and Antonin Daum; the Tiffany-esque stained-glass windows of Jacques Gruber; the fluidity of Louis Majorelle’s furniture designs; and the sinuous architecture of Lucien Weissenburger, Émile André, and Eugène Vallin. Thanks to these artists, Nancy’s downtown architecture gives the impression of a living garden suspended above the sidewalks.

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Fodor’s Choice | Musée de l’École de Nancy (School of Nancy Museum).

France’s only museum devoted to Art Nouveau is in an airy turn-of-the-last-century garden–town house built by Eugène Corbin, an early patron of the School of Nancy. Re-created rooms show off original works of art by local Art Nouveau glassmakers Emile Gallé, Antonin and Auguste Daume, Amairac Walter, and other artisans. Allow yourself to immerse in the fanciful, highly stylized, curlicue style that crept into interiors and exteriors throughout Nancy in the early 20th century, then became a sensation around the world. | 36 rue du Sergent-Blandan, Quartier Art-Nouveau | 03–83–40–14–86 | www.ecole-de-nancy.com | €6 | Wed.–Sun. 10–6.

Villa Majorelle.

In this villa, built in 1902 by Paris architect Henri Sauvage for Art Nouveau furniture designer Louis Majorelle, sinuous metal supports seem to sneak up on the unsuspecting balcony like swaying cobras. The two grand windows are by Jacques Gruber: one lights the staircase (visible from the street) and the other is set in the dining room on the south side of the villa (peek around from the garden side). | 1 rue Louis-Majorelle, Quartier Art-Nouveau.

WORTH NOTING

Avenue Foch.

This busy boulevard lined with mansions was laid out for Nancy’s affluent 19th- and early 20th-century middle class. At No. 69, built in 1902 by Émile André, the occasional pinnacle suggests Gothic influence; André designed the neighboring No. 71 two years later. No. 41, built by Paul Charbonnier in 1905, bears ironwork by Louis Majorelle. | Quartier Art-Nouveau.

Brasserie l’Excelsior.

This bustling brasserie has a severely rhythmic facade that is invitingly illuminated at night. Inside, the decor continues to evoke the Belle Époque. | 50 rue Henri-Poincaré, Quartier Art-Nouveau.

No. 2 rue Bénit.

This elaborately worked metal exoskeleton, the first in Nancy (1901), exudes functional beauty. The floral decoration reminds you of the building’s past as a seed supply store. Windows were worked by Jacques Gruber; the building was designed by Henry-Barthélemy Gutton, while Victor Schertzer conceived the metal frame. | 2 rue Bénit, Quartier Art-Nouveau.

No. 9 rue Chanzy.

Designed by architect Émile André, this lovely structure—now a bank—can be visited during business hours. You can still see the cabinetry of Louis Majorelle, the decor of Paul Charbonnier, and the stained-glass windows of Jacques Gruber. | 9 rue Chanzy, Quartier Art-Nouveau.

No. 40 rue Henri-Poincaré.

The Lorraine thistle (a civic emblem) and brewing hops weave through this undulating exterior, designed by architects Émile Toussaint and Louis Marchal. Victor Schertzer conceived the metal structure in 1908, after the success of No. 2 rue Bénit. Gruber’s windows are enhanced by the curving metalwork of Louis Majorelle. | 40 rue Henri-Poincaré, Quartier Art-Nouveau.

Nos. 42–44 rue St-Dizier.

Furniture maker Eugène Vallin and architect Georges Biet left their mark on this graceful 1903 bank. | 42–44 rue St-Dizier, Quartier Art-Nouveau | Weekdays 9–5:30.

Rue Raugraff.

Once there were two stores here—Vaxelaire and Pignot, both built in 1901. The facade is the last vestige of the work of Émile André and Eugène Vallin. | 13 rue Raugraff, Quartier Art-Nouveau.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Brasserie l’Excelsior.

BRASSERIE | Above all, you’ll want to eat in this 1911 restaurant, part of the dependable Flo group, for its sensational Art Nouveau stained glass, mosaics, Daum lamps, and sinuous Majorelle furniture. But the food is stylish, too, with succulent choices ranging from duck foie gras served with Mirabelle plum chutney to grilled lobster flambé (in whisky, no less). Don’t miss out on regional desserts like kouglof (a distinctively shape Alsatian cake). The waiters are attentive and exude Parisian chic. | Average main: €27 | 50 rue Henri-Poincaré, Quartier Art-Nouveau | 03–83–35–24–57 | www.brasserie-excelsior.com.

Le Capu.

FRENCH | Barely a stone’s throw from place Stanislas, this stylish landmark puts its best foot forward under chef Hervé Fourrière. The menu includes revisited favorites, such as preskopf of langoustines with a creamy herb sauce. Desserts—like warm chestnut crème with fleur de sel, accompanied by boules de Berlin (Alsatian doughnuts)—are also noteworthy. A buffet brunch is served Sunday between 11 and 4, and cooking lessons are offered Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings. The choice of Toul wines is extensive. | Average main: €38 | 31 rue Gambetta, Ville Royale | 03–83–35–26–98 | www.lecapu.com | Reservations essential | No lunch Sat.

Le P’tit Cuny.

BISTRO | If you were inspired by the rustic exhibits at the Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires, cross the street and sink your teeth into authentic Lorraine cuisine in the form of mouthwatering choucroutes, tête de veau (calf’s head), or foie gras-stuffed pig’s trotter. Tables inside are tight, creating a bustling, canteen-like atmosphere, and the quality of the service seems to vary with the weather, but the hearty food is irreproachable. | Average main: €17 | 97 Grande-Rue, Vieille Ville | 03–83–32–85–94 | www.lepetitcuny.fr.

Grand Hôtel de la Reine.

HOTEL | Every bit as grand as Place Stanislas, on which it stands, this magnificent 18th-century building is officially classified as a historic monument with an interior that is just as regal: guest rooms are decorated in Louis XV style (the most luxurious overlook the square). The hotel’s spectacular restaurant, Le Stanislas, is aglitter with chandeliers and boiseries and has seen its kingly charms heightened by a recent renovation. Pros: sumptuous location; old-world atmosphere. Cons: rooms get street noise; indifferent staff. | Rooms from: €115 | 2 pl. Stanislas, Ville Royale | 03–83–35–03–01 | www.hoteldelareine.com | 41 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.

Hôtel de Guise.

HOTEL | Deep in the shuttered Vieille Ville, this quiet, convivial hotel occupies an 18th-century nobleman’s mansion with a magnificent stone-floor entry and a delightful walled garden; some guest rooms are furnished with period pieces and charmingly incongruous floral patterns, while others have been redecorated in a sleek contemporary style. This a good choice for bargain-hunting romantics—splurge on a suite for affordable luxury and an extra bed. Pros: tidy rooms; central location; helpful staff. Cons: no air-conditioning; overheated, stuffy rooms. | Rooms from: €102 | 18 rue de Guise, Vieille Ville | 03–83–32–24–68 | www.hoteldeguise.com | 46 rooms, 4 suites | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Ballet de Lorraine.

Created in 1978 to assume the mission of a national ballet, it stages performances in the Opéra de Nancy on Place Stanislas. | 1 rue Ste-Catherine, Vieille Ville | 03–83–85–69–01 | www.ballet-de-lorraine.eu.

HW.

HW is a popular dance club. | 1 ter rue du Général-Hoche, Ville Neuve | 03–83–27–07–16.

Le Chat Noir.

The “Black Cat” is a hit with thirtysomethings who enjoy retro-themed dance parties. | 63 rue Jeanne-d’Arc, Ville Neuve | 03–83–28–49–29 | www.lechatnoir.fr.

Les Caves du Roy.

A young upscale crowd comes to dance at Les Caves du Roy | 9 pl. Stanislas, Ville Royale | 03–83–35–24–14.

Opéra National de Lorraine.

The musical repertoire of this opera company ranges from ancient to contemporary. | 1 rue Ste-Catherine, Vieille Ville | 03–83–85–30–60 | www.opera-national-lorraine.fr.

Orchestre Symphonique et Lyrique.

Established in 1884, the Orchestre Symphonique et Lyrique organizes concerts from fall through spring. | 1 rue Ste-Catherine, Vieille Ville | 03–83–85–30–60 | www.opera-national-lorraine.fr.

SHOPPING

Daum Boutique.

This boutique sells deluxe crystal and examples of the city’s traditional Art Nouveau pâte de verre, in which crushed glass is mixed with a binding material to form a decorative surface. | 14 pl. Stanislas, Vieille Ville | 03–83–32–21–65 | www.daum.fr | Closed Mon. morning and Sun.

Librairie Ancienne Dornier.

Located near the Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires, Librairie Ancienne Dornier is an excellent bookstore that sells engravings as well as old and new books devoted to local history. | 74 Grande-Rue, Vieille Ville | 03–83–36–50–62 | Closed weekday mornings and Sun.

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Vaucouleurs | Domrémy-la-Pucelle | Épinal

Lorraine is the land of Joan of Arc, one of France’s patron saints and an iconic figure worldwide. Following D64, which winds between Contrexéville and Void, puts you on her home turf; almost unchanged since the Middle Ages, it’s a landscape that Joan would probably find familiar today. Certainly the names of some local communities will be familiar to her fans. Domrémy was the place where she was born in 1411 or 1412; Neufchâteau, then a fortified town guarding the region, was where a teenage Joan and her fellow villagers sought refuge from the menacing English armies; and Vaucouleurs was where she went in 1428 to enlist the aid of the governor and prepare for a mission that would take her onward to the king—and her destiny.

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VAUCOULEURS

73 km (41 miles) southwest of Nancy on N4 and D964.

Above the modest main street in the market town of Vaucouleurs, you can see ruins of Robert de Baudricourt’s medieval castle and the Porte de France. The barefoot Maid of Orléans spent several months here, arriving on May 13, 1428 to ask Governor de Baudricourt for help. After wheedling an audience at the castle, she convinced him of the necessity of her mission, learning to ride and to wield a sword. Won over finally by her conviction and by popular sentiment, de Baudricourt offered to give her an escort to seek out the king. On February 23, 1429, clad in page’s garb and with her hair cut short, Jeanne d’Arc rode out through the Porte de France, en route to Orléans.

Getting Here

Bus R410 runs from Nancy to Toul and takes around 35 minutes; from Toul, Bus R450 continues on to Vaucouleurs, but only on school days (€2.50 each leg).

WHERE TO STAY

Hostellerie de l’Isle en Bray.

B&B/INN | A night in the fine Renaissance-style Château de Montbras—where grand public salons are crammed with antiques and spacious guest rooms are graced with period furniture elegantly offset by modern fabrics—is ideal for anyone indulging in Joan-of-Arc-related medieval musings. With a history extending back five centuries, the château has an array of historical goodies: four grand stone bastion towers, an elegant wing sculpted with goddesses and ornaments in the style of 16th-century architect Androuet du Cerceau, and some rare Baroque paintings of Indian tribes. The ambitious restaurant serves stylish menus. Pros: romantic and secluded; timeless charm and luxury; marvelous museum atmosphere; gentle prices with breakfast included. Cons: car indispensable. | Rooms from: €130 | 3 rue des Erables, 10 km (6 miles) south of Vaucouleurs on the D964 | Montbras | 03–29–90–86–36 | www.chateau-montbras.com | 5 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

DOMRÉMY-LA-PUCELLE

19 km (12 miles) south of Vaucouleurs on D964.

Joan of Arc was born in a cottage here in either 1411 or 1412. You can see her birthplace, as well as the church where she was baptized, the actual statue of St. Marguerite before which she prayed, and the hillside where she tended sheep and first heard voices telling her to take up arms and save France from the English.

In the nearby forest of Bois-Chenu, perhaps an ancient sacred wood, Jeanne d’Arc gathered flowers. Near the village of Coussy, she danced with other children at country fairs attended by Pierre de Bourlémont, the local seigneur, and his wife Beatrice—the Château of Bourlémont may still be seen. Associated with Coussey and Brixey are Saints Mihiel and Catherine, who, with the Archangel Saint-Michael, appeared before Joan. In the Chapel of Notre-Dame at Bermont, where Joan vowed to save France, are the statues that existed in her time.

Getting Here

If you don’t have your own car, you can come by taxi from Vaucouleurs for about €40.

EXPLORING

Basilique du Bois-Chenu (Bois-Chenu Basilica).

The ornate late-19th-century Basilique du Bois-Chenu, high up the hillside above Domrémy, boasts enormous painted and mosaic panels expounding on Joan’s legend in glowing Pre-Raphaelite tones. Outside lurk serene panoramic views over the emerald, gently rolling Meuse Valley. | www.basiliquedomremy.fr | Daily Apr.–Oct., 8–7; Nov.–Mar., 8–5:30.

Fodor’s Choice | Maison Natale de Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc’s Birthplace).

The humble stone-and-stucco Maison Natale de Jeanne d’Arc—an irregular, slope-roof, two-story cottage—has been preserved with style and reverence. The modern museum alongside, the Centre Johannique, shows a film (French only), while mannequins in period costume present Joan of Arc’s amazing story. After she heard mystical voices, Joan walked 19 km (12 miles) to Vaucouleurs. Dressed and mounted like a man, she later led her forces to lift the siege of Orléans, defeated the English, and escorted the unseated Charles VII to Reims, to be crowned king of France. Military missions after Orléans failed—including an attempt to retake Paris—and she was captured at Compiègne. The English turned her over to the Church, which sent her to be tried by the Inquisition for witchcraft and heresy. She was convicted and burned at the stake in Rouen. One of the latest theories is that Jeanne d’Arc was no mere “peasant” but was distantly connected to France’s royal family—a controversial proposal that many historians discount. | 2 rue de la Basilique | 03–29–06–95–86 | €4 | Oct.–mid-Dec. and mid-Jan.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10–1 and 2–5; Apr.–Sept., Wed.–Mon. (daily July and Aug.) 10–1 and 2–6.30.

ÉPINAL

74 km (44 miles) southeast of Domrémy-la-Pucelle, 72 km (45 miles) south of Nancy.

On the Moselle River at the feet of the Vosges, Épinal, a printing center since 1735, is famous throughout France for boldly colored prints, popular illustrations, and hand-colored stencils.

Getting Here

There are two direct TGVs from Paris’s Gare de l’Est (2 hrs, 20 mins; €53–€68); 24 TER trains also arrive daily from Nancy, making the trip in just under an hour (€13.60).

Basilique St-Maurice.

The small but bustling Vieille Ville is anchored by the lovely old Basilique St-Maurice, a low gray-stone sanctuary blending Romanesque and Gothic styles. Note its sturdy belfry and deep, ornate, 15th-century entry porch. | Pl. St-Goëry | 03–29–82–58–36.

FAMILY | Musée de l’Image.

The Musée de l’Image combines a public exhibition space with the private museum of the town’s most famous printing workshop, L’Imagerie d’Épinal. Begun in 1796, L’Imagerie has produced woodcuts, lithographs, and other forms of printed imagery that are displayed here, offering a beautiful—and often critical—pictorial history of France. | 42 quai de Dogneville | 03–29–81–48–30 | www.museedelimage.fr | €8 joint ticket for museum and workshop | Sept.–June, Mon. 2–6, Tues.–Thurs. and Sat. 9:30–noon and 2–6, Fri. 9:30–6, Sun. 10–noon and 2–6; July and Aug., Mon. 2–6, Tues.–Sat. 10–6:30, Sun. 10–noon and 2–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Départemental d’Art Ancien et Contemporain (Museum of Antiquities and Contemporary Art).

A renovated 17th-century hospital on an island in the center of Épinal is home to the spectacular Musée Départemental d’Art Ancien et Contemporain. The crowning jewel here is Job Lectured by His Wife, one of the greatest works of Georges de la Tour, the painter whose candlelight scenes constitute Lorraine’s most memorable artistic legacy. Works of other old masters on view (including Rembrandt, Fragonard, and Boucher) were once part of the famous collection of the Princes of Salm. The museum also contains one of France’s largest collections of contemporary art, as well as Gallo-Roman artifacts, rural tools, and local faïence. | 1 pl. Lagarde | 03–29–82–20–33 | €5 | Wed.–Mon. 9–12:30 and 1:30–6, Sun. 1:30–6.

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The Historic Heart | Beyond the Ill | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Nightlife and the Arts | Shopping

Although it’s in the heart of Alsace, 490 km (304 miles) east of Paris, and draws appealingly on Alsatian gemütlichkeit (coziness), Strasbourg is a cosmopolitan French cultural center and the symbolic if unofficial capital of Europe. The Romans knew Strasbourg as Argentoratum before it came to be known as Strateburgum, or City of (Cross) Roads. After centuries as part of the Germanic Holy Roman Empire, it was united with France in 1681, but retained independence regarding legislation, education, and religion under the honorific title Free Royal City.

Against an irresistible backdrop of old half-timber houses, waterways, and the colossal single spire of its red-sandstone cathedral (which seems to insist imperiously that you pay homage to its majestic beauty), Strasbourg embodies Franco-German reconciliation and the wider idea of a united Europe. You’ll discover an incongruously sophisticated mix of museums, charming neighborhoods like La Petite France, elite schools (including that notorious hothouse for blooming politicos, the École Nationale d’Administration, or National Administration School), international think tanks, and the European Parliament. The Strasbourgeoisie have a lot to be proud of.

Getting Here and Around

Strasbourg is two hours, 20 minutes from Paris on any of the 15 daily direct TGV trains (€73-€91). Frequent extra-regional trains also link the city to Nancy, Metz, Lyon, and Geneva. Because Strasbourg’s train station (20 pl. de la Gare) is the hub of the regional TER train system, direct trains run at least every 30–60 minutes to Colmar (€12) and Sélestat (€8.50), too. Buses head to Obernai from the Gare Routière (03–88–43–23–43) in place des Halles. Within the city, you can take advantage of an extensive tram and bus network, operated by Companie des Transports Strasbourgeois (03–88–77–70–70 | www.cts-strasbourg.eu). Trams and buses depart from the train station, and the same tickets can be used on both.

If you’re driving, keep in mind that the configuration of downtown streets makes it difficult to approach the center via the autoroute exit marked Strasbourg Centre. Instead, hold out for the exit marked place de l’étoile and follow signs to Cathédrale/Centre Ville. At Place du Corbeau, veer left across the Ill, and go straight to the Place Gutenberg parking garage, a block from the cathedral.

Visitor Information

Strasbourg Tourist Office. The city’s main tourist office is on Place de la Cathédrale; there are other branches at the train station and Parc de l’Etoile. | 17 pl. de la Cathédrale | 03–88–52–28–28 | www.otstrasbourg.fr.

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THE HISTORIC HEART

The best of Old Strasbourg is concentrated in a central area that extends from the cathedral to picturesque Petite France. Effectively an island within two arms of the River Ill, it’s known for twisting backstreets, flower-lined courts, tempting shops, and inviting winstubs.

TOP ATTRACTIONS

FAMILY | Cathédrale Notre-Dame.

Dark pink, ornately carved Vosges sandstone masonry covers the facade of this most novel and Germanic of French cathedrals, a triumph of Gothic art begun in 1176. Not content with the outlines of the walls themselves, medieval builders lacily encased them with slender stone shafts. The off-center spire, finished in 1439, looks absurdly fragile as it tapers skyward some 466 feet; you can climb 330 steps to the base of the spire to take in sweeping views of the city, the Vosges Mountains, and the Black Forest.

The interior presents a stark contrast to the facade: it’s older (mostly finished by 1275), and the nave’s broad windows emphasize the horizontal rather than the vertical. Note Hans Hammer’s ornately sculpted pulpit (1484–86) and the richly painted 14th- to 15th-century organ loft that rises from pillar to ceiling. The left side of the nave is flanked with richly colored Gothic windows honoring the early leaders of the Holy Roman Empire—Otto I and II, and Heinrich I and II. The choir is not ablaze with stained glass but framed by chunky Romanesque masonry. The elaborate 16th-century Chapelle St-Laurent, to the left of the choir, merits a visit; turn to the right to admire the Pilier des Anges (Angels’ Pillar), an intricate column dating from 1230.

Just beyond the pillar, the Renaissance machinery of the 16th-century Horloge Astronomique whirs into action daily at 12:30 pm (but the line starts at the south door at 11:45 am): macabre clockwork figures enact the story of Christ’s Passion. One of the highlights: when the apostles walk past, a likeness of Christ as a rooster crows three times. | Pl. de la Cathédrale | www.cathedrale-strasbourg.fr | Clock €2, spire platform €5 | Daily 7–11:20 and 12:40–7.

Musée Alsacien (Alsatian Museum).

In this labyrinthine half-timber home, with layers of carved balconies sagging over a cobbled inner courtyard, local interiors have been faithfully reconstituted. The diverse activities of blacksmiths, clog makers, saddlers, and makers of artificial flowers are explained with the help of old-time craftsmen’s tools and equipment. | 23 quai St-Nicolas | 03–88–52–50–01 | www.musees-strasbourg.org | €6.50 | Wed.–Mon., 10–6.

Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain (Modern and Contemporary Art Museum).

A magnificent sculpture of a building (designed by contemporary architect Adrien Fainsilber) that sometimes dwarfs its contents, this spectacular museum frames a relatively thin collection of new, esoteric, and unsung 20th-century art. Downstairs, a permanent collection of Impressionists and Modernists up to 1950 is heavily padded with local heroes but happily fleshed out with some striking furniture; all are juxtaposed for contrasting and comparing, with little to no chronological flow. Upstairs, harsh, spare works must strive to live up to their setting; few contemporary masters are featured. Drawings, watercolors, and paintings by Gustave Doré, a native of Alsace, are enshrined in a separate room. | 1 pl. Hans-Jean Arp | 03–88–23–31–31 | www.musees-strasbourg.eu | €7 | Tues.–Sun.10–6.

Musée de l’Œuvre Notre-Dame (Cathedral Museum).

There’s more to this museum than the usual assembly of dilapidated statues rescued from the cathedral before they fell off (you’ll find those rotting in the Barrage Vauban). Sacred sculptures stand in churchlike settings, and secular exhibits are enhanced by the building’s fine old architecture. Subjects include a wealth of Flemish and Upper Rhine paintings, stained glass, gold objects, and massive, heavily carved furniture. | 3 pl. du Château | 03–88–52–50–00 | www.musees-strasbourg.eu | €6.50 | Tues.–Fri. 10–6.

Palais Rohan (Rohan Palace).

The exterior of this massive neoclassical palace (1732–42) by architect Robert de Cotte may be austere, but there’s plenty of glamour inside. Decorator Robert le Lorrain’s magnificent ground-floor rooms include the great Salon d’Assemblée (Assembly Room) and the book- and tapestry-lined Bibliothèque des Cardinaux (Cardinals’ Library). The library leads to a series of less august rooms that house the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (Decorative Arts Museum) and its elaborate display of ceramics. This is a comprehensive presentation of works by Hannong, a porcelain manufacturer active in Strasbourg from 1721 to 1782; dinner services by other local kilns reveal the influence of Chinese porcelain. The Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum), also in the château, includes masterworks of European painting from Giotto and Memling to El Greco, Rubens, and Goya. Downstairs, the Musée Archéologique (Archaeology Museum) displays regional finds, including gorgeous Merovingian treasures. | 2 pl. du Château | 03–88–52–50–00 | www.musees-strasbourg.eu | €6.50 each museum | Mon. and Wed.–Fri. 10–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Petite France.

With gingerbread half-timber houses that seem to lean precariously over the canals of the Ill, plus old-fashioned shops, and inviting little restaurants, “Little France” is the most magical neighborhood in Strasbourg. The district, just southwest of the center, is historically Alsatian in style and filled with Renaissance buildings that have survived plenty of wars. Wander up and down the tiny streets that connect Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes and Rue des Dentelles to Grand-Rue, and stroll the waterfront promenade.

WORTH NOTING

Barrage Vauban (Vauban Dam).

Just beyond the Ponts Couverts is the grass-roofed Vauban Dam, built by its namesake in 1682. Climb to the top for wide-angle views of the Ponts Couverts and, on the other side, the Museum of Modern Art. Then meander through its echoing galleries, where magnificent cathedral statuary lies scattered among pigeon droppings. | Ponts Couverts | Free | Daily 9–7:30.

Musée Historique (Local History Museum).

This museum, in a step-gabled slaughterhouse dating from 1588, contains a collection of maps, armor, arms, bells, uniforms, traditional outfits, printing paraphernalia, and two huge relief models of Strasbourg. The new collection on the first floor covers civic history from the Napoleonic era to the present day. | 3 pl. de la Grande-Boucherie | 03–88–52–50–00 | www.musees.strasbourg.eu/ | €6.50 | July–Sept., daily 10–6; Oct.–June, Tues.–Fri. 10–6.

Ponts Couverts (Covered Bridges).

These three bridges, distinguished by their four stone towers, were once covered with wooden shelters. Part of the 14th-century ramparts that framed Old Strasbourg, they span the Ill as it branches into a quartet of fingerlike canals.

BEYOND THE ILL

If you’ve seen the center and have time to strike out in new directions, head across the Ill to view an architectural landmark unrelated to Strasbourg’s famous medieval past: the Palais de l’Europe.

EXPLORING

European Parliament.

This sleek building testifies to the growing importance of the governing body of the European Union, which used to make do with rental offices in the Palais de l’Europe. Eurocrats continue to commute between Brussels, Luxembourg, and Strasbourg, hauling their staff and files with them. One week per month, visitors can slip into the hemicycle and witness the tribune in debate, complete with simultaneous translation. Note: You must obtain a written appointment beforehand and provide a pièce d’identité (ID) before entering. | Behind Palais de l’Europe | 03–88–17–40–01 | www.europarl.europa.eu | Free | Call or write ahead for appointment.

L’Orangerie.

Like a private backyard for the Eurocrats in the Palais de l’Europe, this delightful park is laden with flowers and punctuated by noble copper beeches. It contains a lake and, close by, a small reserve of rare birds, including flamingos and noisy local storks. | Av. de l’Europe.

Palais de l’Europe.

Designed by Paris architect Henri Bernard in 1977, this continental landmark is headquarters to the Council of Europe, founded in 1949 and independent of the European Union. A guided tour introduces you to the intricacies of its workings and may allow you to eavesdrop on a session. Arrange your tour by telephone in advance (a minimum of 15 people must sign up before one will be conducted); appointments are fixed according to language demands and usually take place in the afternoon. Note: You must provide ID before entering. | Av. de l’Europe | 03–88–41–20–29 for appointment | Free | Tours weekdays by appointment.

Place de la République.

The spacious layout and ponderous architecture of this monumental cirque (circle) have nothing in common with the Vieille Ville except for the local red sandstone. A different hand was at work here—that of occupying Germans, who erected the former Ministry (1902), the Academy of Music (1882–92), and the Palais du Rhin (1883–88). The handsome neo-Gothic church of St-Paul and the pseudo-Renaissance Palais de l’Université (University Palace), constructed between 1875 and 1885, also bear the German stamp. Heavy turn-of-the-20th-century houses, some reflecting the whimsical curves of the Art Nouveau style, frame Allée de la Robertsau, a tree-lined boulevard that would not look out of place in Berlin. | Pl. de la République | Strasbourg.

WHERE TO EAT

Au Crocodile.

FRENCH | At one of the temples of Alsatian-French haute cuisine, you get a real taste of old Alsace with a nouvelle spin. Founded in the early 1800s, its grand salon is still aglow with skylights and a spectacular 19th-century mural showing the Strasbourgeoisie at a country fair continues to set the tasteful tone. Chef Philippe Bohrer, who worked privately for French presidents Valéry Giscard d’Estaing and François Mitterrand, presents some of the most dazzling dishes around. Delights include cannelloni stuffed with crab and caviar, grilled turbot with Champagne sauce, and chocolate-praline mousse with hints of yuzu. Not surprisingly, the wine list is extensive. In case you’re curious, Au Crocodile’s name refers to a stuffed specimen brought back by a Strasbourg general from Napoléon’s Egyptian campaign. | Average main: €50 | 10 rue de l’Outre | 03–88–32–13–02 | www.au-crocodile.com | Reservations essential | Jacket and tie | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Chez Yvonne.

FRENCH | Just around the corner from the cathedral is an eatery that is almost as exalted. Behind red-checked curtains you can find artists, tourists, lovers, and heads of state sitting elbow-to-elbow in this classic winstub, founded in 1873. All come to savor steaming platters of local specialties: watch for pike-perch on choucroute, braised ham hocks, and quails stuffed with foie gras. Warm Alsatian fabrics dress tables, the china is regional, the photos historic—all making for chic, not kitsch. | Average main: €16 | 10 rue du Sanglier | 03–88–32–84–15 | www.restaurant-chez-yvonne.net | Reservations essential | Daily noon–2:15, 6–midnight.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Buerehiesel.

MODERN FRENCH | This lovely farmhouse, reconstructed in the Orangerie park, warrants a pilgrimage if you’re willing to pay for the finest cooking in Alsace. Chef Eric Westermann focuses on the freshest of local-terroir specialties, supplemented by the best seafood from Brittany. The seasonal desserts are a standout. Two small salons are cozy, but most tables are set in a modern annex made largely of glass and steel. In any event, plump European parlementaires come on foot; others might come on their knees. | Average main: €37 | 4 parc de l’Orangerie | 03–88–45–56–65 | www.buerehiesel.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon., 2 wks in Jan., and 2 wks in Aug.

Maison des Tanneurs.

GERMAN | This half-timbered 16th-century landmark (one of oldest riverside buildings in Petite France) is draped with geranium-filled flower pots and perennially popular. Come for generous and delicious proportions of choucroute garnie, as well as other regional favorites such as goose foie gras, trout with almonds and coq au Riesling. | Average main: €24 | 42, rue Bain aux Plantes | 03–88–32–79–70 | www.maison-des-tanneurs.com | Closed Sun., Mon., and 3 wks in early Jan.

Maison Kammerzell.

FRENCH | This restaurant occupies what must be the most familiar house in Strasbourg—a richly carved, half-timber 15th-century building adorned with sumptuous allegorical frescoes by the aptly nicknamed Léo Schnug. Fight your way through the crowds on the terrace and ground floor to one of the atmospheric rooms above, with their gleaming wooden furniture, stained-glass windows, and unrivaled views of the cathedral. Foie gras and choucroute are best bets, though you may want to try the chef’s pet discovery, choucroute with freshwater fish. | Average main: €22 | 16 pl. de la Cathédrale | 03–88–32–42–14 | www.maison-kammerzell.com.

Zum Strissel.

BISTRO | This rustic winstub near the cathedral has been in business since the 16th century. The charming decor provides a perfect backdrop for traditional Alsatian fare such as baeckoffe and choucroute served with pike perch. To wash it down, you can choose from an extensive list of Alsace wines. TIP Try for a room upstairs to admire the stained-glass windows with their tales depicting life in the vines, or opt for the outdoor terrace, which spills out over the square. | Average main: €17 | 5 pl. de la Grande-Boucherie | 03–88–32–14–73 | www.strissel.fr.

WHERE TO STAY

Cathédrale.

HOTEL | Location and views, with windows framing the cathedral or 16th-century half-timber Maison Kammerzell, are what make these otherwise ordinary rooms so memorable. A sleek marble lobby abuts lounges, a bar, and a breakfast room that are rich with ancient beams and sandstone. Pros: comfortable, clean, but not remarkable rooms; across from the cathedral. Cons: some rooms are small; those with a cathedral view get some street noise (rooms that don’t face the square are quieter). | Rooms from: €95 | 13 pl. de la Cathédrale | 03–88–22–12–12 | www.hotel-cathedrale.fr | 47 rooms | No meals.

Hôtel Cardinal de Rohan.

HOTEL | Across from the cathedral on a picturesque pedestrian street, this modest little hotel with updated rooms has a welcoming air and a marvelous sense of French style, from the Louis XV furniture to the rich fabrics to the gilt mirrors. The all-tile showers are impeccable, but only the “superieur” rooms come with tubs. Pros: great location; air-conditioned. Cons: small standard rooms; pricey breakfast. | Rooms from: €95 | 17 rue du Maroquin | 03–88–32–85–11 | www.hotel-rohan.com | 36 rooms | No meals.

Hôtel Cour du Corbeau.

HOTEL | Opened as an inn in 1580 and magnificently restored to its half-timbered former glory, the “courtyard of the crow” retains its Middle Ages facade while the interiors are another thing completely: luxe design, crystal chandeliers, period furniture, and colorful fabrics are the essence of modern style, sumptuousness, and comfort. Enter the courtyard—especially at night—and it is easy to imagine Frederic the Great (a visitor to the original hotel) and his entourage pulling up in a caravan of coaches. Pros: dazzling and luxurious; great location a short walk from the cathedral. Cons: has a tea salon, but no restaurant. | Rooms from: €145 | 6–8 rue des Couples | 03–90–00–26–26 | www.cour-corbeau.com | 38 rooms, 19 suites | No meals.

Hôtel Gutenberg.

HOTEL | In a 250-year-old mansion just off Place Gutenberg, this budget-priced urban hotel has colorful, modernized rooms with charming highlights from the past. Little fifth-floor lofts reveal skylights and timbered ceilings, while air-conditioning allows you to close the windows if the street noise gets to be too much. The delightful breakfast room is inviting but sometimes a little crowded, so consider an early start or be prepared to wait for (or share) a table. The English-speaking staff is friendly, and the location is convenient. Pros: excellent value; old-world style with modern amenities and design touches; picturesque location only a few blocks from the cathedral. Cons: some street noise; elevator doesn’t reach the top floor. | Rooms from: €99 | 31 rue des Serruriers | 03–88–32–17–15 | www.hotel-gutenberg.com | 42 rooms | Breakfast.

Régent-Petite France.

HOTEL | Surrounded by canals in the heart of the quaint La Petite France quarter, this centuries-old former ice factory—replete with noble pediment and mansard roofs—has been transformed into a boldly modern luxury hotel, where Philippe Starck–inspired sculptural furnishings contrast sharply with the half-timber houses and roaring river viewed from nearly every window. The preferred choice of Catherine Deneuve, Jacques Chirac, and Sting (to name a few) welcomes you with a spacious marble vestibule, vivid graffiti art, and Le Pont Tournant: an eye-popping modernistic restaurant done up in white, pinks, and reds (enjoy its summer tables over the torrent). Pros: beautiful rooms; ideal location; great service; no skimping on the amenities—the beds and the bathrooms are divine. Cons: disappointing breakfast; restaurant closed Sunday and Monday. | Rooms from: €195 | 5 rue des Moulins | 03–88–76–43–43 | www.regent-petite-france.com | 55 rooms, 17 suites | Some meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Festival Musica (Contemporary Music Festival).

The annual Festival Musica is held in September and October. | Cité de la Musique et de la Danse,1 pl. Dauphine | 03–88–23–46–46 | www.festival-musica.org.

Jazzdor (Jazz Festival).

Strasbourg hosts its international jazz festival each November at venues both in and around the city. | 25 rue des Frères | 03–88–36–30–48 | www.jazzdor.com.

La Laiterie.

The Vieille Ville neighborhood east of the cathedral, along Rue des Frères, is the nightlife hangout for university students and twentysomethings; among a clutch of heavily frequented bars is La Laiterie, a multiplex concert hall showcasing art, workshops, and music ranging from electronic to post-rock and reggae. | 13 rue Hohwald | 03–88–23–72–37 | www.laiterie.artefact.org.

Opéra National du Rhin.

A sizable repertoire makes the Opéra National du Rhin a popular—and accessible—choice. | 19 pl. Broglie | 03–88–75–48–00 | www.operanationaldurhin.eu.

Orchestre Philharmonique.

Classical concerts are presented by the Orchestre Philharmonique, which is one of the two permanent orchestras of the Opéra National du Rhin. Performances are staged mainly at the Palais de la Musique et des Congrès. | Palais des Congrès | 03–69–06–37–06 | www.philharmonique-strasbourg.com.

SHOPPING

The lively city center is full of boutiques, including chocolate shops and delicatessens selling locally made foie gras. Look for warm paisley linens and rustic homespun fabrics, Alsatian pottery, and local wines. Forming the city’s commercial heart are rue des Hallebardes, next to the cathedral; rue des Grandes Arcades, with its shopping mall; and place Kléber. An antiques market takes place behind the cathedral on rue du Vieil-Hôpital, rue des Bouchers, and place de la Grande Boucherie every Wednesday and Saturday morning.

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Obernai | Mont-Ste-Odile | Barr | Andlau | Dambach-la-Ville | Sélestat | Haut-Koenigsbourg | Ribeauvillé | Riquewihr | Colmar

The Rhine River forms the eastern boundary of both Alsace and France. But the best of Alsace is not found along the Rhine’s industrial waterfront. Instead it’s in the Ill Valley at the base of the Vosges, southwest of cosmopolitan Strasbourg. Northwest is the beginning of the Route du Vin, the great Alsace Wine Road, which winds its way south through the Vosges foothills, fruitful vineyards, and medieval villages. Signs for the road help you keep your bearings on the twisting way south, and you’ll find limitless opportunities to stop at wineries and sample the local wares. The Wine Road stretches 170 km (105 miles) between Thann and Marienheim, and is easily accessible from Strasbourg or Colmar. Many of the towns and villages have designated “vineyard trails” winding between towns (a bicycle will help you cover a lot of territory). Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé—accessible by bus from Colmar and Sélestat rail stations—are connected by an especially picturesque route. Along the way, stop at any “Dégustation” sign for a tasting and pick up brochures on the Alsace Wine Road at any tourist office.

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OBERNAI

30 km (19 miles) southwest of Strasbourg via A35/N422.

Many visitors begin their trip down the Route du Vin at Obernai, a thriving, colorful Renaissance market town named for the patron saint of Alsace. Head to the central town enclosed by the ramparts to find some particularly photo-friendly sites, including a medieval belfry, Renaissance well, and late-19th-century church.

Getting Here

You can reach Obernai from Strasbourg by bus (50 mins, €2) or train (30–40 mins, €6.20). Trains also connect Obernai and Sélestat (25–40 mins, €5.10).

Visitor Information

Obernai Tourist Office. | Pl. du Beffroi | 03–88–95–64–13 | www.tourisme-obernai.fr.

EXPLORING

Kapelturm Beffroi (Chapel Tower Belfry).

Place du Marché, in the heart of town, is dominated by the 13th-century Kapelturm Beffroi. The stout, square structure is topped by a pointed steeple that’s flanked at each corner by frilly openwork turrets.

Puits à Six-Seaux (Well of Six Buckets).

An elaborate Renaissance well near the belfry, the Puits à Six-Seaux was constructed in 1579; its name recalls the six buckets suspended from its metal chains.

St-Pierre–St-Paul.

The twin spires of this parish church compete with the belfry for skyline preeminence. Like the rest of the sanctuary, they date from the 1860s, although the 1504 Holy Sepulchre altarpiece in the north transept is a survivor from the previous church. Other points of interest include the flower-bedecked Place de l’Étoile and the Hôtel de Ville, which is open to visitors during the Les Journées du Patrimoine.

WHERE TO STAY

A La Cour d’Alsace.

HOTEL | In a quiet location just a few steps from the Kapelturm Beffroi, this smart hotel balances old-fashioned coziness with up-to-date guest rooms that are both comfortable and stylish; some overlook the garden and ramparts. The hotel’s gastronomic restaurant is one of the best in town. Other on-site amenities include a glitzy pool and spa. Pros: dead-center location. Cons: no direct access from rooms to pool and spa—guests must cross the outdoor courtyard in their bathrobes. | Rooms from: €170 | 3 rue de Gail | 03–88–95–07–00 | www.cour-alsace.com | 50 rooms, 4 suites | Closed Christmas–late Jan. | No meals.

Hôtel Le Gouverneur.

HOTEL | Behind the photogenic facade of this half-timbered 17th-century house, you’ll find comfy, clean-lined bedrooms that have recently been revamped; they’re set around a geranium-festooned interior courtyard, and the quietest ones come with a view of the ramparts. Bold color splashes and an art-decked interior give the place an art-rustic appeal. Pros: good value; friendly staff; city-center location. Cons: small bathrooms; no air-conditioning. | Rooms from: €88 | 13 rue de Sélestat | 03–88–95–63–72 | www.hotellegouverneur.com | 32 rooms | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | L’Ami Fritz.

B&B/INN | A few miles west of Obernai, this reader-recommended, 18th-century, white-shuttered, flower-bedecked stone house treats visitors to fine meals and accommodates overnight guests in impeccable rooms with sleek contemporary furnishings (opt for one in the main hotel, not the adjacent annex). On-site amenities include a sauna and heated outdoor pool. The restaurant (reservations essential; closed to nonguests Wednesday) is one of the region’s top attractions. Here you can savor Patrick Fritz’s sophisticated twists on regional specialties, including a salad of warm suckling pig, a delicate choucroute of fresh and smoked fish in beurre blanc, or beer-braised pork cheeks with spaeztle. Don’t miss the fruity red wine, an Ottrott exclusive. Pros: beautiful location; friendly staff; combines style, rustic warmth, and three generations of family tradition. Cons: a car is needed; uneven service. | Rooms from: €93 | 8 rue des Châteaux, 5 km (3 miles) west of Obernai | Ottrott-le-Haut | 03–88–95–80–81 | www.amifritz.com | 35 rooms, 7 suites | Closed 2nd wk of July and 2 wks in mid-Jan. | No meals.

SHOPPING

Dietrich.

Head to Dietrich for a varied selection of Beauvillé linens, locally handblown Alsatian wineglasses, and Obernai-pattern china. | 74 rue du Général-Gouraud | 03–88–95–57–58 | www.dietrich-obernai.fr.

MONT-STE-ODILE

12 km (8 miles) southwest of Obernai via Ottrott.

Rising 2,500 feet, Mont-Ste-Odile has been an important religious and military site for 3,000 years.

Getting Here

Various regional bus lines serve Mont-Ste-Odile.

Mont-Ste-Odile.

The summit of Mont-Ste-Odile is ringed by Mur Païen: an eerie 9½-km-long (6-mile-long) wall, which is up to 12 feet high and, in parts, several feet thick; its mysterious origins and purpose still baffle archaeologists. What is known is that the Romans established a settlement on the mont and, at the start of the eighth century, Odile (the patron saint of Alsace, who had been born blind) founded a convent on the same spot after receiving her sight while being baptized. The relatively modern convent is now a workaday hostelry for modern pilgrims on group retreats. Odile died here in AD 720; her sarcophagus rests in the 12th-century Chapelle Ste-Odile. The spare, Romanesque Chapelle de la Croix adjoins Ste-Odile. | Ottrott.

BARR

8 km (5 miles) south of Obernai.

Surrounded by vineyards that harvest some of the finest vintages of Sylvaner and Gewurztraminer wines, Barr is a thriving, semi-industrial town that has some charming narrow streets lined with half-timber houses (notably rue des Cigognes, rue Neuve, and the tiny rue de l’Essieu), a cheerful 17th-century Hôtel de Ville, and a decorative arts museum. Most buildings date from after a catastrophic fire in 1678; the only medieval survivor is the Romanesque tower of St-Martin, the Protestant church.

Getting Here

A daily bus service (€2) will bring you here from Andlau in 10 minutes.

Musée d’arts décoratif Folie Marco.

Admire original furniture, local porcelain, earthenware, and pewter at this museum in a mansion built by local magistrate Félix Marco in 1763. One section explains the traditional process of schlittage: sleds, bearing bundles of freshly sawed tree trunks, once slid down the forest slopes over a “corduroy road” made of logs. | 30 rue du Dr-Sultzer | 03–88–08–94–72 | €5 | May–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6; Oct., weekends 10–noon and 2–6.

ANDLAU

13 km (8 miles) southwest of Obernai.

This small, yet important, wine town in the Andlau river valley is surrounded by the Vosges mountains. Its historic center has several noteworthy houses dating from the 15th to 18th centuries; however Abbaye d’Andlau is the primary attraction.

Getting Here

Buses make the 10-minute trip here from Barr daily (€2). By car, Andlau is 20 minutes from Obernai.

EXPLORING

Abbaye d’Andlau.

Built in the 12th century, the Abbaye d’Andlau has the richest ensemble of Romanesque sculpture in Alsace. Sculpted vines wind their way around the doorway as a reminder of wine’s time-honored importance to the local economy. A statue of a female bear, the abbey mascot—bears used to roam local forests and were bred at the abbey until the 16th century—can be seen in the north transept. Legend has it that Queen Richarde, spurned by her husband, Charles the Fat, founded the abbey in AD 887 when an angel enjoined her to construct a church on a site to be shown to her by a female bear.

WHERE TO STAY

Arnold.

HOTEL | Like Itterswiller—the cute wine village it overlooks—this yellow-walled, half-timbered hillside hotel exudes charm, from the wood-beam lobby with its wrought-iron staircase right through to the “country deluxe” lodgings with views across the nearby vineyards. Rooms, while not overly spacious, are well done, with large wood-framed beds, colorfully upholstered furnishings, capacious windows, and all the modern conveniences. The cheapest ones, on the top floor, have showers only; the priciest have bathtubs and balconies. Across the street, the hotel’s winstub-style restaurant (no dinner Sunday, closed Monday) features a vintage winepress and serves Alsace wines by the jug; homemade foie gras, venison in cranberry sauce, and traditional choucroute top the menu. Pros: all-around excellence; good half-board meal plan. Cons: no air-conditioning; inconsistent service. | Rooms from: €96 | 98 rte. des Vins, 3 km (2 miles) south of Andlau on D253 | Itterswiller | 03–88–85–50–58 | www.hotel-arnold.com | 29 rooms | Some meals.

A Tippler’s Guide to Alsace

Threading south along the eastern foothills of the Vosges from Marienheim to Thann, the Alsatian Wine Road is home to delicious wines and beautiful vineyards. The 170-km (105-mile) Route du Vin passes through small towns, and footpaths interspersed throughout the region afford the opportunity to wander through the vineyards.

Buses from Colmar head out to the surrounding towns of Riquewihr, St-Hippolyte, Ribeauvillé, and Eguisheim; pick up brochures on the Wine Route from Colmar’s tourist office. Although the route is hilly, bicycling is a great way to take in the countryside and avoid the parking hassle in the towns along this heavily traveled route.

Wine is an object of veneration in Alsace, and anyone traveling along the Route du Vin will want to become part of the cult. Just because Alsatian vintners use German grapes, don’t expect their wines to taste like their counterparts across the Rhine.

German vintners aim for sweetness, creating wines that are best appreciated as an aperitif. Alsatian vintners, on the other hand, eschew sweetness in favor of strength, and their wines go wonderfully with knockdown, drag-out meals.

The main wines you need to know about are Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Sylvaner—all whites. The only red wine produced in the region is the light and delicious Pinot Noir. Gewurztraminer, which in Germany is an ultrasweet dessert wine, has a much cleaner, drier taste in Alsace, despite its fragrant bouquet. It’s best served with the richest of Alsace dishes, such as goose.

Riesling is the premier wine of Alsace, balancing a hard structure with certain fruity roundness. With a grapy bouquet and clean finish, dry Muscat does best as an aperitif. Pinot Gris, also called “Tokay,” is probably the most full-bodied of Alsatian wines.

Sylvaner falls below those grapes in general acclaim, tending to be lighter and a bit dull. You can discover many of these wines as you drive along the Route du Vin.

DAMBACH-LA-VILLE

8 km (5 miles) southeast of Andlau via Itterswiller.

Dambach-la-Ville—the largest wine-producing village along the Alsace Wine Road—is protected by ramparts and three imposing 13th-century gateways. It’s particularly rich in half-timber, high-roof houses from the 17th and 18th centuries, clustered mainly around place du Marché (Market Square). Also on the square is the 16th-century Hôtel de Ville. As you walk the charming streets, notice the wrought-iron signs and rooftop oriels.

Getting Here

Dambach-la Ville is 30 minutes from Colmar by TER train (€6.20); you can also arrive from Strasbourg directly (€8.70) or via Sélestat (€9.60), in under an hour.

WHERE TO STAY

Le Vignoble.

B&B/INN | Set in a beautifully restored 18th-century barn next to the village church, this unpretentious hotel offers real, rustic Alsatian charm; quiet, comfy guest rooms have functional dark-wood furnishings and, in some cases, balconies overlooking the street. In good weather, take advantage of the pleasant garden and courtyard. Pros: wine-route location; warm Alsatian welcome. Cons: no air-conditioning; no restaurant; some rooms are on the small side. | Rooms from: €75 | 1 rue de l’Eglise | 03–88–92–43–75 | www.hotel-vignoble-alsace.fr | 7 rooms | Closed Jan.–mid-Feb.

SÉLESTAT

9 km (5½ miles) southeast of Dambach via D210 and N422, 47 km (29 miles) southwest of Strasbourg.

Sélestat, midway between Strasbourg and Colmar, is a lively, historic town with a Romanesque church and a library of medieval manuscripts (the latter of which will be closed for renovations until 2016). The fact that it has good transportation links is an added bonus. Head directly to the Vieille Ville and explore the quarter on foot.

Getting Here

TER trains depart Strasbourg every 30 minutes for Sélestat (€8.50). Frequent daily trains also connect the town to Colmar (€4.70), and buses run from here to Ribeauvillé (€2.30).

Visitor Information

Sélestat Tourist Office. | 10 bd. Leclerc | 03–88–58–87–20 | www.selestat-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

St-Foy.

The church of St-Foy dates from between 1155 and 1190; its Romanesque facade remains largely intact (the spires were added in the 19th century), as does the 140-foot octagonal tower over the crossing. Sadly, the interior was mangled over the centuries, chiefly by the Jesuits, whose most inspired legacy is the Baroque pulpit of 1733 depicting the life of St. Francis Xavier. Note the Romanesque bas-relief next to the baptistery, originally the lid of a sarcophagus. | Pl. du Marché-Vert.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

La Vieille Tour.

FRENCH | Named for the 13th-century stone tower that flanks it, La Vieille Tour gives classic dishes a contemporary spin. Chefs Nicolas and Samy Ruhlmann seek inspiration from locally-sourced seasonal produce, and their love for it shows in dishes such as terrine of foie gras with elderberries and green tomato chutney, or pollock à la plancha with butternut squash and polenta. Tantalizing desserts cap the menu. Take a table in the traditional dining room (complete with oak-beamed ceiling and fireplace), or opt for one on the more contemporary first floor. TIP The fixed-price menus are an excellent value. | Average main: €24 | 8 rue de la Jauge | 03–88–92–15–02 | www.vieille-tour.fr | Closed Mon.

Hôtel Vaillant.

HOTEL | More promising than you’d expect from the bland ‘70s exterior, this easy-to-find hotel near the train station has a distinct sense of style. Public areas are decked out with eclectic art works and assorted objets chosen by the cheerful owner. The guest rooms, mainly midsize, combine clean lines and crisp white linens with bold accents; the bathrooms, though functional, aren’t quite so slick. An on-site brasserie and restaurant serve traditional, wholesome fare. Pros: mod cons include air-conditioning, flat-screen TVs, and free Wi-Fi; large free car park in front of hotel. Cons: 10-minute walk to historic center. | Rooms from: €90 | 7 rue Ignace Spies, Place de la République | 03–88–92–09–46 | www.hotel-vaillant.com | 47 rooms | No meals.

HAUT-KOENIGSBOURG

11 km (7 miles) west of Sélestat via D159.

One of the most popular spots in Alsace is the romantic, crag-top castle of Haut-Koenigsbourg, originally built as a fortress in the 12th century.

Getting Here

An “on-demand” bus service (08–00–10–09–48) provides transport from Sélestat to Orschwiller for €4; from there it’s a short walk to Haut-Koenigsbourg. A shuttle bus (€4 return) also runs from the Sélestat train station to the château every day from June to September and on weekends from March to December.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg.

The ruins of the Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg were presented by the town of Sélestat to German emperor Wilhelm II in 1901. The château looked just as a kaiser thought one should, and he restored it with some diligence and no lack of imagination—squaring the main tower’s original circle, for instance. The site, panorama, drawbridge, and amply furnished imperial chambers may lack authenticity, but they are undeniably dramatic. | Orschwiller | 03–69–33–25–00 | www.haut-koenigsbourg.fr | €8; Nov.–Mar., free 1st Sun. of month | Nov.–Feb., daily 9:30–noon and 1–4:30; Mar. and Oct., daily 9:30–5; Apr., May, and Sept., daily 9:15–5:15; June–Aug., daily 9:15–6.

RIBEAUVILLÉ

13 km (8 miles) south of Haut-Koenigsbourg via St-Hippolyte, 16 km (10 miles) southwest of Sélestat.

The beautiful half-timber town of Ribeauvillé, surrounded by rolling vineyards and three imposing châteaux, produces some of the best wines in Alsace. (The Trimbach family has made Riesling and superb Gewurztraminer here since 1626.) Its narrow main street, crowded with winstubs, pottery shops, bakeries, and wine sellers, is bisected by the 13th-century Tour des Bouchers, or Butcher’s Tower—a clock-belfry completed (gargoyles and all) in the 15th century.

Getting Here

Ribeauvillé can be reached by bus via Colmar or Sélestat (€2.30–€3.95).

Visitor Information

Ribeauvillé Tourist Office. | 1 Grand Rue | 03–89–73–23–23 | www.ribeauville-riquewihr.com.

EXPLORING

Place de l’Hôtel de Ville.

Ignore the guides herding around French and German tour groups, and head straight for the place de l’Hôtel de Ville. Its town hall contains a famous collection of silver-gilt 16th-century tankards and chalices; and the place itself is a pretty place to perch. It is particularly lively the first Sunday in September, when the town hosts a grand parade to celebrate the Fête des Ménétriers (Festival of the Minstrels)—a day when at least one fountain here spouts free Riesling. Headlined by medieval musicians, the party begins mid-afternoon. Entrance tickets cost €8, and the best street seats go for €10 (contact the tourist office for details). | Pl. de l’Hôtel de Ville.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Fodor’s Choice | L’Auberge de L’Ill.

MODERN FRENCH | Marlene Dietrich and Spanish opera star Montserrat Caballé are just two of the famous guests who have feasted at this culinary temple, where Chef Marc Haeberlin marries Alsatian cuisine with Asian nuances. The impressive results include salmon soufflé, saddle of Aveyron lamb, and showstoppers like le homard Prince Vladimir (lobster with shallots braised in Champagne and crème fraîche). Japanese-Alsatian flair is particularly apparent in such dishes as entrecôte of Wagyu beef served with vegetable tempura and a red miso sauce. The kitchen’s touch is incredibly light, so you’ll have room left for masterful desserts like chestnut mousse with an Eglantine rose coulis. | Average main: €90 | 2 rue de Collonges au Mont d’Or, 10 km (6 miles) east of Ribeauvillé | Illhaeusern | 03–89–71–89–00 | www.auberge-de-l-ill.com | Closed Mon. and Tues. and mid-Feb.–mid-Mar.

Zum Pfifferhüs.

GERMAN | This is a true-blue winstub, with yellowed murals, glowing lighting, and great local wines available by the glass. The cooking is pure Alsace, with German-scale portions of choucroute, ham hock, and fruit tarts. Book ahead. | Average main: €21 | 14 Grand-Rue | 03–89–73–62–28 | Reservations essential | Closed Thurs. Nov.–July, Wed. year-round, mid-Feb.–mid-Mar., and 1st 2 wks in July.

Hôtel de la Tour.

HOTEL | Guest rooms at this erstwhile family winery in the center of Ribeauvillé, with an ornate Renaissance fountain outside its front door, are modern, surprisingly spacious and well positioned for experiencing the atmospheric town by night; those on the top floor have exposed timbers and wonderful views of ramshackle rooftops. As you would expect, given the history of the hotel, the owners can provide expert advice when it comes to wine tours. Pros: family run; good amenities, including a sauna and Jacuzzi. Cons: no air-conditioning. | Rooms from: €80 | 1 rue de la Mairie | 03–89–73–72–73 | www.hotel-la-tour.com | 31 rooms | Closed Jan.–early Mar. | No meals.

Hôtel des Berges.

B&B/INN | If you want to enjoy the pleasant surroundings of the celebrated L’Auberge de L’Ill restaurant,with its terraced riverside lawns, book a night in the luxury annexDesigned to evoke an Alsatian tobacco barn, replete with Havanese woods, it has rooms named after famous cigars and a lovely country-luxe decor. For that quintessentially romantic moment, opt for breakfast (additional price) afloat in a boat dug out of a bamboo trunk, complete with wicker basket, white tablecloth, and personal punter. Pros: romantic and opulent; close to excellent restaurant. Cons: pricey; no meals included. | Rooms from: €350 | 4 rue de Collonges au Mont d’Or, 10 km (6 miles) east of Ribeauvillé | Illhaeusern | 03–89–71–87–87 | www.hoteldesberges.com | 7 rooms, 6 suites | Closed Mon. and Tues. and Feb. | No meals.

Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre.

B&B/INN | On the edge of Ribeauvillé’s old quarter, this gracious half-timber, 18th-century inn offers a warm welcome; a crackling fire greets you downstairs, while exposed timbers, sumptuous fabrics, and slick bathrooms await upstairs. The two “Maries”—who have owned the inn for more than two decades—bring an unpretentious, sisterly vibe to this intimate address. There’s no on-site restaurant, but being able to enjoy a gentle hearthside conversation, wine glass in hand, is ample compensation. Pros: tasteful and cozy; central location; gracious hosts; generous breakfast included. Cons: stuffy in summer (no air-conditioning). | Rooms from: €155 | 11 rue du Château | 03–89–73–70–31 | www.ribeaupierre.com | 3 rooms, 2 suites | Closed Jan.–early Mar. | Breakfast.

RIQUEWIHR

5 km (3 miles) south of Ribeauvillé.

With its unique once-upon-a-timeliness, Riquewihr is the Wine Route’s pièce de résistance and a living museum of old Alsace’s quaint architecture. Its steep main street, ramparts, and winding back alleys have scarcely changed since the 16th century, and could easily serve as a film set. Merchants cater to the sizable influx of tourists with a plethora of kitschy souvenir shops; bypass them and instead peep into courtyards with massive wine presses, study the ornately decorated houses, stand in the narrow old courtyard that was once the Jewish quarter, or climb up the Dolder Belfry for a stunning view of the town. You would also do well to settle into a winstub to sample some of Riquewihr’s famous wines. Just strolling down the heavenly streets will reward your eye with half-timber houses, storybook gables, and storks’-nest towers. The facades of certain houses dating from the late Gothic period take pride of place, including the Maison Kiener (1574), the Maison Preiss (1686), and the Maison Liebrich (1535), but the Tower of Thieves and the Postal Museum, ensconced in the château of the duke of Württemberg, are also fascinating.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Au Tire-Bouchon.

FRENCH | “The Corkscrew,” with its stone walls, long wooden tables, and friendly waiters, is the best place in town to sample Alsatian choucroute garnie—including rare varieties like verte (“green,” flavored with parsley) and “Choucroute Royale.” The menu also promises some seasonally-changing innovations, plus a fine selection of muscats and in-house fruit brandies. This winstub is heartily recommended for that guaranteed touch of authenticity. TIP If it’s booked up, try the nearby Dolder restaurant. | Average main: €17 | 29 rue du Général-de-Gaulle | 03–89–47–91–61 | Closed mid-Jan.–early Feb., 1st wk in Mar., and Mon. year-round. No dinner Sun.

Sauerkraut and Choucroute

To embark on a full gastronomic excursion into the hearty, artery-clogging terrain of Alsatian cuisine, your tour should probably start with flammekueche—a flat tart stuffed with bacon, onions, cream cheese, and heavy cream. The next stop is baeckeoffe, marinated pork, mutton, and beef simmered in wine with potatoes and onions, sometimes with a round of creamy Munster cheese melted on top. And to finish up, land with a thud on a hefty slice of k ougelhopf, a butter-rich, ring-shape, brioche cake with almonds and raisins.

If, however, you have neither the constitution nor the inclination for such culinary heft, there is one dish that sums up the whole of Alsatian cuisine: choucroute garnie. Borrowed from the Germans, who call it sauerkraut, the base definition of choucroute is cabbage pickled in brine. In more elaborate terms, this means quintal d’Alsace, a substantial variety of local white cabbage, shredded and packed into crockery and left to ferment with salt and juniper berries for at least two months. Beyond this, any unanimity regarding the composition of choucroute garnie breaks down. In addition to sauerkraut, however, the essential ingredients seem to be salted bacon, pork sausages, white wine, onions, cloves, black peppercorns, garlic, lard or goose fat, potatoes, and salt pork—pigs’ knuckles, cheeks, loin, shanks, feet, shoulder, and who knows what else? No matter—the taste is unforgettable.

Hôtel de la Couronne.

HOTEL | Looking like an illustration out of the Brothers Grimm, this hotel is set in a 16th-century house with a central tower, steep mansard roof, country shutters, and rusticated stone trim; inside, several guest rooms have grand timber beams and folkloric wall stencils, making this a truly charming base for touring a truly charming town. The place blends so beautifully into the heart of medieval Riquewihr that the only modern note will be your car, which you’ll be allowed to drive to the hotel even though the town center is pedestrian-only. Pros: good location; outdoor dining in summer, old-world charm. Cons: no elevator; service can be inconsistent. | Rooms from: €63 | 5 rue de la Couronne | 03–89–49–03–03 | www.hoteldelacouronne.com | 41 rooms | Some meals.

Le Sarment d’Or.

B&B/INN | This little family-run hotel by the city walls, near the Dolder belfry, blends modern comforts with bare-stone walls, dark-timber ceilings, and a dining room that serves up firelit romance as well as delicious cuisine; the top-floor duplex suite is an exceptional value. Specialties at the time-burnished restaurant include fine foie gras, frog legs in garlic cream, and roasted partridge with cabbage frisée (it’s closed Monday and does not serve dinner Sunday or lunch Tuesday). Pros: pleasant, bright rooms; good food; you can drive through the town’s car-free zone for luggage drop-off. Cons: no elevator; no air-conditioning. | Rooms from: €70 | 4 rue du Cerf | 03–89–86–02–86 | riquewihr-sarment-dor.com | 9 rooms | Closed 1st wk in July | Some meals.

COLMAR

13 km (8 miles) southeast of Riquewihr via D3/D10, 71 km (44 miles) southwest of Strasbourg.

Forget that much of Colmar’s architecture is modern (because of the destruction wrought by World Wars I and II): its Vieille Ville heart—an atmospheric maze of narrow streets lined with candy-color, half-timber Renaissance houses hanging over cobblestone lanes in a disarmingly ramshackle way—out-charms Strasbourg.

Getting Here and Around

Four daily direct TGV runs from Paris’s Gare de l’Est to Colmar (€65)—each taking two hours, 50 minutes—are complemented by 12 semi-direct, TGV/TER combos from the same station. These require a change at either Strasbourg or Mulhouse but barely 10 minutes, in most cases, is added to the trip. More than a dozen daily trains will take you from Colmar to Sélestat (€4.70), and nine daily buses (the last at 7:10 pm) make the 45-minute trip to Ribeauvillé (€3.95). The LK Groupe (www.l-k.fr) has regular bus service from the Gare SNCF to towns throughout the region. Within Colmar, TRACE buses (03–89–20–80–80 | www.trace-colmar.fr) provide efficient public transit.

Visitor Information

Colmar Tourist Office. | 32 cours Ste-Anne | 03–89–20–68–92 | www.tourisme-colmar.fr.

EXPLORING

Église des Dominicains (Dominican Church).

The Flemish-influenced Madonna of the Rosebush (1473), noted German artist Martin Schongauer’s most celebrated painting, hangs in the Église des Dominicains. Stolen from St-Martin’s in 1972 and later recovered, the work has almost certainly been reduced in size from its original state but retains enormous impact. The grace and intensity of the Virgin match that of the Christ Child; yet her slender fingers dent the child’s soft flesh (and his fingers entwine her curls) with immediate intimacy. Schongauer’s text for her crown is: Me carpes genito tuo o santissima virgo (“Choose me also for your child, O holiest Virgin”). Until renovations are completed at Musée d’Unterlinden, Église des Dominicains will also be displaying one of the greatest altarpieces of the 16th century—the Retable d’Issenheim (1512–16), by Matthias Grünewald. It is expected to return to its usual home in the spring of 2015. | Pl. des Dominicains | 03–89–24–46–57 | €8 joint ticket with Musée Unterlinden until April 2015; fee for later dates €1.30 | Wed.–Mon. 9–noon and 2–5.

La Petite Venise (Little Venice).

To find Colmar at its most charming, wander along the calm canals that wind through La Petite Venise, an area of bright Alsatian houses with colorful shutters and window boxes that’s south of the center of town. Here, amid half-timber buildings bedecked with flowers and weeping willow trees that shed their tears into the eddies of the Lauch River, you have the sense of being in a tiny village.

Elsewhere, the Vieille Ville streets fan out from the beefy towered church of St-Martin. Each shop-lined backstreet winds its way to the 15th-century customs house, the Ancienne Douane, and the square and canals that surround it.

Maison aux Arcades (Arcades House).

Up the street from the Ancienne Douane on the Grand Rue, the Maison aux Arcades was built in 1609 in High Renaissance style with a series of arched porches (arcades) anchored by two octagonal towers. | 11 Grand Rue.

Maison Pfister.

The Maison Pfister, built in 1537, is the most striking of Colmar’s many old dwellings. Note the decorative frescoes and medallions, carved balcony, and ground-floor arcades. | 11 rue Mercière.

QUICK BITES: Au Croissant Doré.

On the same street as Musée Bartholdi, this quaint, pink-fronted tearoom serves delicious pastries, cakes and quiches. The zinc-topped counter, mismatched lampshades, and a collection of ancient coffeepots lend it a cozy, authentic feel. | 28 rue des Marchands | 03–89–23–70–81 | Closed Mon.

Musée Bartholdi.

The Bartholdi Museum is the birthplace of Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi (1834–1904), the sculptor who designed the Statue of Liberty. Exhibits of his work claim the ground floor; a reconstruction of the artist’s Paris apartment is upstairs; and, in adjoining rooms, the creation of Lady Liberty is explored. | 30 rue des Marchands | 03–89–41–90–60 | www.musee-bartholdi.com | €5 | Mar.–Dec., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée d’Unterlinden.

The cultural highlight of Colmar is the Musée d’Unterlinden, once a medieval Dominican convent and hotbed of Rhenish mysticism. Upstairs you can see fine regional furnishings and a collection of Rhine Valley paintings from the Renaissance, including Martin Schongauer’s opulent 1470 altarpiece painted for Jean d’Orlier; other treasures can be found around the enchanting 13th-century cloister, including arms and armor. However, an ongoing museum makeover means that its star attraction—the Retable d’Issenheim (1512–16), a glorious, sometimes gruesome multipanel altarpiece by Matthias Grünewald, which had been displayed in the convent’s Gothic chapel—has been temporarily moved to Église des Dominicains. It is slated to make a triumphant return in spring 2015 when Musée d’Unterlinden’s three-story extension opens. The new wing will have floors dedicated to modern and contemporary art (including the Guernica tapestry by Jacqueline de La Baume-Dürbach) as well as temporary exhibition space. In the interim, the museum’s contemporary and modern art collection is also closed to the public. | 1 rue Unterlinden | 03–89–20–15–50 | www.musee-unterlinden.com | €8 joint ticket with Église des Dominicains | May–Oct., daily 9–6; Nov.–Apr., Wed.–Mon. 9–noon and 2–5.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Au Koïfhus.

FRENCH | Not to be confused with the shabby little Koïfhus winstub on Rue des Marchands, this popular landmark (the name means “customhouse”) serves huge portions of regional standards, plus changing specialties: crayfish and grapefruit salad, coq au vin with spaetzle, and choucroute “Colmarienne” with six different meats. Appreciative tourists and canny locals contribute to the lively atmosphere. If you can cut a swath through this enthusiastic horde, choose between the big, open dining room, glowing with wood and warm fabric, and a shaded table on the broad, lovely square. | Average main: €17 | 2 pl. de l’Ancienne-Douane | 03–89–23–04–90 | www.restaurant-koifhus-colmar.fr.

Chez Hansi.

FRENCH | Named after the Norman Rockwell-like illustrator whose clog-wearing folk children adorn most of the souvenirs of Alsace, this hyper-traditional beamed tavern serves excellent down-home classics such as quiche Lorraine, choucroute, and pot-au-feu. Offerings are prepared and presented with a sophisticated touch, despite the friendly waitresses’ folksy dirndls, and prices are surprisingly reasonable, given the quality of the food and the eatery’s location in the Vielle Ville. | Average main: €18 | 23 rue des Marchands | 03–89–41–37–84 | Closed Wed., Thurs., and Jan.

L’Atelier du Peintre.

MODERN FRENCH | This slick gastronomic restaurant in the historic center strikes a chord with both in-the-know locals and savvy tourists. Art-decked walls provide a fitting backdrop for the artful dishes prepared by Chef-owner Loïc Lefebvre, who whips up creations like marinated scallops served with a grapefruit granité or panfried foie gras with a truffle-speckled beetroot broth—either of which can be washed down with a good selection of wines. Lefebvre’s partner Caroline Cordier ensures service at the “atelier” is top-notch. | Average main: €34 | 1 rue Schongauer | 03–89–29–51–57 | www.atelier-peintre.fr | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Le Rendez-vous de Chasse.

FRENCH | The stellar cuisine of Julien Binz is as refined, elegant, and chic as the decor of this opulent Renaissance mansion. An extensive wine cellar perfectly accents entrées like pigeon breast with truffle polenta, and roast venison with juniper berry sauce. Some of the region’s finest dishes are prepared here with aplomb, so it’s well worth the wrangle to secure a table. | Average main: €55 | 7 pl. de la Gare | 03–89–41–10–10 | www.grand-hotel-bristol.com/restaurant-gastronomique-colmar | Reservations essential.

Le Maréchal.

B&B/INN | Built in 1565 in the fortified walls that encircle the Vieille Ville, this romantic, riverside inn is made up of a series of Renaissance houses lavished with glossy rafters, rich brocades, four-poster beds, Jacuzzis, and other extravagant details; a vivid color scheme—scarlet, sapphire, candy pink—further enhances the Vermeer-like atmosphere (for the full experience, request the Wagner or Bach rooms). All in all, this is not a high-tech luxury hotel: it’s an endearing, quirky, old place hanging over a Petite Venise canal. The hotel’s gastronomic restaurant, À l’Échevin, offers such dishes as roast bass with Bouchot mussels. Dine in salons or on the terrace perched above the river. Pros: pretty location; good food; amiable staff. Cons: some rooms are small and unimpressive; parking is difficult to find. | Rooms from: €135 | 4 pl. des Six-Montagnes-Noires | 03–89–41–60–32 | www.hotel-le-marechal.com | 30 rooms | Some meals.

Rapp.

HOTEL | In the Vieille Ville, just off the Champ de Mars, this solid, modern hotel has business-class comforts, a professional and welcoming staff, an extensive indoor pool complex, plus a good German-scale breakfast. The restaurant serves dependable regional fare, including vegetarian dishes, but is closed Friday and does not serve lunch Saturday or Sunday (it also closes for the month of January). Pros: good value; modern amenities; helpful staff. Cons: breakfast is extra; lacks historic character. | Rooms from: €105 | 1–3–5 rue Weinemer | 03–89–41–62–10 | www.rapp-hotel.com | 29 rooms, 10 suites | No meals.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Burgundy

Northwest Burgundy

Dijon

Wine Country

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner | Dining in Burgundy | Some Like It Hot

Updated by Lyn Parry

Producing a rarefied concentration of what many consider the world’s greatest wines and harboring a sigh-worthy collection of magnificent Romanesque abbeys, Burgundy hardly needs to be beautiful—but it is. Its green-hedgerowed countryside, medieval villages, and stellar vineyards deserve to be rolled on the palate and savored. Like glasses filled with Clos de Vougeot, the sights here—from the stately city of Dijon to the medieval sanctuaries of Sens, Auxerre, Vézelay, and Cluny—invite us to tarry and partake of their mellow splendor.

Although you may often fall under the influence of extraordinary wine during a sojourn in Burgundy—called Bourgogne by the French—the beauty surrounding you will be no boozy illusion. Passed over by revolutions, left unscarred by world wars, and relatively inaccessible thanks to circuitous country roads, the region still reflects the lovely pastoral prosperity it enjoyed under the Capetian kings. Those were the glory days, when self-sufficient Burgundy held its own against the creeping spread of France and the mighty Holy Roman Empire. This grand period was characterized by the expanding role of the dukes of Bourgogne. Consider these Capetians, history-book celebrities all: there was Philippe le Hardi (the Bold), with his power-brokered marriage to Marguerite of Flanders. There was Jean sans Peur (the Fearless), who murdered Louis d’Orléans in a cloak-and-dagger affair in 1407 and was in turn murdered, in 1419. And then there was Philippe le Bon (the Good), who threw in with the English against Joan of Arc.

Yet the Capetians couldn’t hold a candle to the great Abbaye de Cluny: founded in 910, it grew to such overweening ecclesiastical power that it dominated the European Church on a papal scale for some four centuries. It was Urban II himself who dubbed it “la Lumière du Monde” (“the Light of the World”). But the stark geometry of Burgundy’s Cistercian abbeys, such as Clairvaux and Cîteaux, stands in silent rebuke to Cluny’s excess. The basilicas at Autun and Vézelay remain today in all their noble simplicity, yet manifest some of the finest Romanesque sculpture ever created; the tympanum at Autun rejects all time frames in its visionary daring.

It’s almost unfair to the rest of France that all this history, all this art, all this natural beauty comes with delicious refreshments. As if to live up to the extraordinary quality of its Chablis, its Chassagne-Montrachet, its Nuits-St-Georges, its Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy flaunts some of the best plain food in the world. Once you taste a licensed and diploma’d poulet de Bresse (Bresse chicken) embellished by the poetry of one perfect glass of Burgundian Pinot Noir, you won’t be surprised to see that food and drink entries will take up as much space in your travel diary as the sights you see.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Sip your way through Burgundy vineyards: They are among the world’s best, so take the time to stroll through Clos de Vougeot and really get a feel for the “terroir.”

Discover Dijon: One of France’s prettiest cities, with colorful banners and polished storefronts along narrow medieval streets, Dijon is perpetually being dolled up for a street fair.

Relish the Romanesque: Burgundy is home to a knee-weakening concentration of Romanesque churches, and Vézelay’s Basilique has the region’s greatest 12th-century sculptures.

Get your viticultural and cultural fix in Beaune: The “Capital of Caves” is famed for its wine caves and its 15th-century Flemish-style hospices.

Be inspired by Cluny, “Light of the World”: Erstwhile center of a vast Christian empire and today a ruin, the sheer volume of this Romanesque abbey still impresses.

GETTING ORIENTED

Burgundy, on the main route from Paris to both the Riviera and Switzerland/Italy, has always had an excellent fast train service, with Dijon serving as the region’s Grand Central Station. This lively city makes the best hub, enabling travelers to discover Burgundy’s many spokes, perhaps with the help of local bus stations (which often conveniently hook up with train stations).

WHAT’S WHERE

Northwest Burgundy. The northern part of Burgundy came under the sway of the medieval Paris-based Capetian kings, and the mighty Gothic cathedrals they built are still much in evidence, notably St-Étienne at Sens. Thirty-two kilometers (20 miles) to the east is Troyes, its charming half-timber houses adding to the appeal of a town overlooked by most air-conditioned bus tours. Southeast lies Auxerre, beloved for its steep, crooked streets and magnificent churches; the wine village of Chablis; and two great Renaissance châteaux, Tanlay and Ancy-le-Franc. Closer to Dijon are the great Cistercian abbey at Fontenay and the noted Romanesque basilica at Vézelay, with a delightful hilltop setting.

Dijon. Burgundy’s only real city, Dijon became the capital of the duchy of Burgundy in the 11th century, and acquired most of its important architectural and artistic treasures during the 14th and 15th centuries under four Burgundian dukes. The churches, the ducal palace, and one of the finest art museums in France are evidence of their patronage. Other treasures are culinary, including the world’s best bœuf bourguignon.

Wine Country. South of Dijon, follow the Côte d’Or, one of the most famous wine routes, south as it heads past the great wine villages of Clos de Vougeot and Nuits-St-Georges to Beaune, the heart of Burgundy’s wine region. At the Hospices take in the great Rogier van der Weyden Last Judgment and the intimate cour d’honneur, the perfect postcard setting. Continuing south you’ll find Autun, with renowned Roman ruins, and the Romanesque landmark of Cluny, once the largest Christian church until Rome’s St. Peter’s was built.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

Whenever it’s gray and cloudy in Paris, chances are the sun is shining in Burgundy. Situated in the heart of France, Burgundy has warm, dry summers. The climate in spring and fall isn’t quite as idyllic, with a mixture of sun and scattered showers. The winter months vary from year to year, and although snow is not common, freezing temperatures mean the bare vines and trees are covered with a soft white hue. Layers of clothing are always advisable, so you’re ready for cooler mornings and hotter afternoons. Waterproof outer layers are wise on longer day trips if the weather forecast is changeable. May in Burgundy is lovely, as are September and October, when the sun is still warm on the shimmering golden trees, and the grapes, now ready for harvesting, are scenting the air with anticipation. This is when the vines are colorful and the caves (cellars) are open for business. Many festivals also take place around this time.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

France’s prime preoccupations with food and wine are nowhere better celebrated than in Burgundy. Though it might sound glib, the best way to experience the region is to stay for as long as possible because there is so much to see and do here. If you want to go bike riding, the obvious place to set up is Beaune. If, on the other hand, you’re an amateur medieval art historian or are interested in the lesser-known wines of Irancy, Chitry, and Tonnerre, base yourself at Auxerre or Vézelay in northern Burgundy. This will allow you to focus on these pursuits while also visiting vineyards, the cathedral of Sens, and (on a northward detour) the elegant, delightful town of Troyes. If you prefer the conveniences of modern cities but also want a taste of medieval Burgundy, then Dijon offers you the best of both worlds. Burgundy’s capital has all the charm of another era and all the functionality of a major metropolis. It’s the gateway to the Côte d’Or, as well as the perfect place to set off for exploring the back roads of Burgundy.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Burgundy, whose northern perimeter begins 75 km (50 miles) from Paris, is one of the largest regions in France. It’s sliced in half by the north–south A6, so it’s generally quicker to move in this direction than from west to east or vice versa. But a vast network of secondary roads makes travel from city to city or even village to village both practical and picturesque.

Bus Travel

Local bus services are extensive; where the biggest private companies, Les Rapides de Bourgogne and TRANSCO, do not venture, the national SNCF network often does. One top choice is TRANSCO’s No. 44 bus through the Côte d’Or wine region, which links Dijon to Beaune (1 hr) via Vougeot (40 mins) and Nuits-St-Georges (47 mins), with a €1.50 fare per leg. Popular Les Rapides de Bourgogne bus routes connect Auxerre to Chablis (20 mins) and Sens (90 mins), with all trips priced at €2.50. Inquire at the local tourist office for timetables and ask your hotel concierge for further recommendations.

Bus Information

Les Rapides de Bourgogne. | 3 rue des Fontenottes, | Auxerre | 03–86–94–95–00 | www.rapides-de-bourgogne-auxerre.fr.

TRANSCO. | Gare Routière,15 Cour de la Gare, | Dijon | 03–80–11–29–29 | www.mobigo-bourgogne.com.

Car Travel

Although bus lines do service smaller towns, traveling through Burgundy by car allows you to explore its meandering country roads at leisure. A6 is the main route through the region; it heads southeast from Paris through Burgundy, past Sens, Auxerre, Chablis, Saulieu, and Beaune, continuing on to Lyon and the south. A38 links A6 to Dijon, 290 km (180 miles) from Paris; the trip takes around three hours. A31 heads down from Dijon to Beaune, a distance of 45 km (27 miles). D974 is a slower, more atmospheric option; but if it’s scenery you want, D122 is the Route des Grands Crus, which reads like a wine list as it meanders through every wine village. The uncluttered A5 links Paris to Troyes, where the A31 segues south to Dijon.

Train Travel

Perhaps the most efficient way of arriving on Burgundy’s doorstep is by rail. The TGV travels to Dijon from Paris’s Gare de Lyon up to 22 times a day (1hr, 30 mins; €45–€65); some TGVs are direct, while others stop at Le Creusot, between Chalon and Autun, 90 minutes outside of Paris. There’s also TGV service direct from Paris’s Charles De Gaulle Airport to Dijon (1 hr, 45 mins). Beaune is well served by trains arriving from Dijon, Lyon, and Paris; and Sens is on a main-line route from the capital (60–90 mins). The region has two local train routes as well: one linking destinations such as Sens, Dijon, Beaune, and Chalon, and the other connecting Auxerre and Autun. If you want to get to smaller towns or to vineyards, take a bus or car.

Train Information

SNCF. | 3635 €0.34 per min | www.voyages-sncf.com.

TGV. | 3635 €0.34 per min. | www.tgv.com.

RESTAURANTS

For many French people, mention of Burgundy’s capital, Dijon, conjures up images of round, rosy, merry men enjoying large suppers of bœuf à la Bourguignonne and red wine. And admittedly, chances are that in any decent restaurant you can find at least one Dijonnais true to the stereotype.

Dijon ranks with Lyon as the gastronomic capital of France, and Burgundy’s hearty traditions help explain why. It all began in the early 15th century when Jean, Duc de Berry, arrived here, built a string of castles, and proceeded to make food, wine, and art top priorities for his courtiers. Today, Parisian gourmands consider a three-hour drive a small price to pay for the cuisine of Burgundy’s best restaurants, such as L’Espérance in Vézelay, Le Pré aux Clercs and Stéphane Derbord in Dijon, and Relais Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu.

Dijon is not quite the wine–mustard capital of the world it used to be, but the happy fact remains that mustard finds its way into many regional specialties, including the sauce that usually accompanies andouillette, a fabled sausage made with pork chitterlings (intestine). Other sausages—notably the rosette du Morvan and others served with a potato puree—are great favorites. Game, freshwater trout, coq au vin, poulet au Meursault (chicken in white wine sauce), snails, and, of course, bœuf à la Bourguignonne (incidentally, this dish is only called bœuf bourguignon when you are not in Burgundy) also number among the region’s specialties.

The queen of chickens is the poulet de Bresse, which hails from east of the Côte d’Or and can be as pricey as a bottle of fine wine. Ham is a big item, especially around Easter, when garlicky jambon persillé—ham boiled with pig’s trotters and served cold in jellied white wine and parsley—often tops the menu. Also look for saupiquet des Amognes—a Morvan delight of hot braised ham served with a spicy cream sauce. As for desserts, pain d’épices (gingerbread) is the dessert staple of the region. And, like every other part of France, Burgundy has its own cheeses. The Abbaye de Cîteaux, birthplace of Cistercian monasticism, has produced its mild cheese for centuries. Chaource and hearty Époisses also melt in your mouth—as do Bleu de Bresse and Meursault.

HOTELS

The vast range of lodging here includes everything from simple gîtes d’étape (bed-and-breakfasts) to four-star châteaux. But Burgundy is often overrun with tourists, especially in summer, so finding accommodations can be a problem. It’s wise to make advance reservations—particularly if you’re bound for wine country (from Dijon to Beaune). Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Comité Régional du Tourisme de Bourgogne. | 5 av. Garibaldi | Dijon | 03–80–28–02–80 | www.bourgogne-tourisme.com.

Dijon Tourist Office. | 11 rue des Forges | Dijon | 08–92–70–05–58 €0.34 per min | www.visitdijon.com.

DINING IN BURGUNDY

In a land where glorious wines define both lifestyle and cuisine, you’ll find savory, soul-warming dishes, from garlicky escargots to coq au vin, both of which pair beautifully with the local wines.

While Burgundy’s glittering wine trade imparts a sophisticated image to the region, Burgundy itself is basically prosperous farm country. Traditional cuisine here reflects the area’s farm-centric soul, with lots of slow-cooked, wine-laced dishes. Distinctive farm-produced cheeses, such as the magnificent, odiferous Époisses, and the mild Cîteaux, made by Trappist monks, cap meals with rustic flourish. During a day of wine tasting in the Côte d’Or, dine at a traditional bistro to savor the jambon persillé, chunks of ham enrobed in a parsleyed aspic jelly, or a rich bœuf bourguignon. In summer, be sure to spend a morning at one of the region’s bountiful weekend markets—maybe Saulieu on Saturday mornings. Afterward, enjoy a Charolais steak à la moutarde at a local café and raise a glass to the good life.

SOME LIKE IT HOT

Visit the 18th-century Maille mustard emporium at 32 rue de la Liberté to savor Dijon’s world-famous mustards. Produced from stone-ground dried black or brown seeds macerated in verjus (the juice of unripe white grapes), these mustards accompany many dishes and heat up lapin à la moutarde, rabbit in mustard sauce. There is coarse-grained à l’ancienne or the classic, creamy, much hotter variety.

Escargots

Burgundy’s plump snails, which grow wild in the vineyards, star on menus throughout the region. The signature preparation is à la Bourguignonne—simmered in white wine, stuffed with a garlicky parsley-shallot butter, and baked until bubbling. The delicacy is served in portions of six or eight on ceramic escargot dishes called escargotières, accompanied by tongs and a little fork.

Those immune to the true snail’s charms may succumb to the luscious imposters made of solid chocolate and available at local candy shops and pâtisseries.

Époisses Cheese

The greatest of Burgundian cheeses, the rich, earthy, cow’s-milk Époisses is not for the faint of heart.

This assertive—yes, even odorous—cheese with the russet-hue rind develops its character from a daily scrubbing with marc-de-Bourgogne brandy as it ripens, a process that inhibits mold but encourages the growth of a particular bacteria necessary for the development of its creamy interior and distinctive flavor.

Go to the modest village of Époisses and buy your cheese from top producer Robert Berthaut. Caveat: transport in a tightly sealed container.

Bœuf à la Bourguignonne

Burgundy is the birthplace of this beloved beef stew, aka bœuf bourguignonne, and no place on Earth makes it better.

A bottle or two of hearty red wine cooked down in the sauce is one secret to its success; the other is the region’s prime Charolais beef.

The beef is braised with wine, onions, bacon, and mushrooms, turning tender as the sauce reduces and intensifies.

Other wine-soaked specialties here include coq au vin and œufs en meurette—eggs poached in red wine.

Kir

This rosy and refreshing aperitif, combining an inexpensive white wine called aligoté with a dose of crème de cassis (black-currant liqueur), was dubbed a “Kir” during World War II when the Resistance hero and mayor of Dijon, Canon Félix Kir, began promoting the drink to boost local sales of cassis liqueur.

Traditionally made, the Kir has four to five parts dry white wine to one part crème de cassis. In the Kir’s aristocratic cousin, the Kir Royale, Champagne replaces the wine.

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Sens | Troyes | Auxerre | Chablis | Tanlay | Ancy-le-Franc | Montbard | Vézelay | Saulieu

If you’re arriving in Burgundy from Paris by car, we suggest you grand-tour it from Sens to Autun. In northern Burgundy, the accents are thinner than around Dijon, and sunflowers cover the countryside instead of vineyards. Near Auxerre, many small, unheard-of villages boast a château or a once-famous abbey; they happily see few tourists, partly because public transportation is more than a bit spotty. Highlights of northern Burgundy include Sens’s great medieval cathedral, historic Troyes, Auxerre’s Flamboyant Gothic cathedral, the great Romanesque sculptures of the basilica at Vézelay, and the cathedral at Autun. Outside these major centers of northwest Burgundy, countryside villages are largely preserved in a rural landscape that seems to have remained the same for centuries. If you’re driving down from Paris, we suggest you take the A6 into Burgundy (or alternatively the A5 direct to Troyes) before making a scenic clockwise loop around the Parc du Morvan, an imposing nature reserve—and the closest mountain range to Paris—dense with lush forests and laced with an extensive network of lakes and rivers.

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SENS

112 km (70 miles) southeast of Paris on D606.

Sens may be world famous for its spectacular cathedral but it also has a reputation as a very pretty town. It enjoys a “four-leaf” ranking as a ville fleurie, or floral city. This finds full botanical expression in the excellently manicured city parks (the Moulin à Tan and the square Jean-Cousin) and municipal greenhouses, as well as during the Fête de la Saint-Fiacre, named after the patron saint of gardeners. For the latter, on the second Sunday in September, everything and everyone are festooned with flowers as entertainment fills the streets. But anytime during the year, the great Cathédrale St-Étienne makes a trip here worthwhile.

Getting Here

It makes sense for Sens to be your first stop in Burgundy, because it’s only 90 minutes by car from Paris on the A6, a fast road that hugs the pretty Yonne Valley south of Fontainebleau. Training in and out of Sens is a breeze as it’s on a major route with 27 direct TER trains (€19.70) leaving Paris’s Gare de Bercy or Gare de Lyon station on weekdays and 12 on weekends. Regional trains also link Sens to Dijon, Beaune, and Chalon. Regional Bus service is available to Auxerre through Les Rapides de Bourgogne.

Visitor Information

Sens Tourist Office. | Pl. Jean-Jaurès | 03–86–65–19–49 | www.tourisme-sens.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Cathédrale St-Étienne.

Historically linked more with Paris than Burgundy, Sens was the country’s ecclesiastical center for centuries. Today it’s still dominated by Cathédrale St-Étienne, once the French sanctuary for Thomas à Becket and a model for England’s Canterbury Cathedral. You can see the 240-foot south tower from miles away. As you draw nearer, the pompous 19th-century buildings lining the town’s narrow main street—notably the meringue-like Hôtel de Ville—can give you a false impression: the streets leading off it near the cathedral (notably Rue Abelard and Rue Jean-Cousin) are full of half-timber medieval houses. On Monday the cathedral square is crowded with merchants’ stalls, and the beautiful late-19th-century market hall—a distant cousin of Baltard’s former iron-and-glass Halles in Paris—throbs with people buying meat and produce. A smaller market is held on Friday morning.

Begun around 1140, the cathedral once had two towers; one was topped in 1532 by an elegant though somewhat incongruous Renaissance campanile that contains two monster bells; the other collapsed in the 19th century. Note the trefoil arches decorating the exterior of the remaining tower. The gallery, with statues of former archbishops of Sens, is a 19th-century addition, but the statue of St. Stephen, between the doors of the central portal, is thought to date from late in the 12th century. The vast, harmonious interior is justly renowned for its stained-glass windows; the oldest (circa 1200) are in the north transept and include the stories of the Good Samaritan and the Prodigal Son; those in the south transept were manufactured in 1500 in Troyes and include a much-admired Tree of Jesse. Stained-glass windows in the north of the chancel retrace the story of Thomas à Becket: Becket fled to Sens from England to escape the wrath of Henry II before returning to his cathedral in Canterbury, where he was murdered in 1170. Below the window (which shows him embarking on his journey in a boat, and also at the moment of his death) is a medieval statue of an archbishop said to have come from the site of Becket’s home in Sens. | Pl. de la République | 03–86–65–06–57 | Daily 8–6 (until 7 in summer).

Palais Synodal (Synodal Palace).

The roof of the 13th-century Palais Synodal, alongside Sens’s cathedral, is notable for its yellow, green, and red diamond-tile motif—incongruously added in the mid-19th century by monument restorer Viollet-le-Duc. Six grand windows and the vaulted Synodal Hall are outstanding architectural features; the building now functions as an exhibition space. Annexed to the Palais is an ensemble of Renaissance buildings with a courtyard offering a fine view of the cathedral’s Flamboyant Gothic south transept, constructed by master stonemason Martin Chambiges at the start of the 16th century (rose windows were his specialty, as you can appreciate here). Inside is a museum with archaeological finds from the Gallo-Roman period. The cathedral treasury, now on the museum’s second floor, is one of the richest in France, comparable to that of Conques. It contains a collection of miters, ivories, the shrouds of St. Sivard and St. Loup, and sumptuous reliquaries. But the star of the collection is Thomas à Becket’s restored brown-and-silver-edged linen robe. His chasuble, stole, and sandals are too fragile to display. | Pl. de la République | 03–86–64–46–22, 03–86–83–88–90 Museum info | €5 | June and Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6; July and Aug., Wed.–Mon. 10–6; Oct.–May, Wed. and weekends 10–noon and 2–6, Mon., Thurs., and Fri. 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Clos des Jacobins.

MODERN FRENCH | At this popular restaurant in the center of town, the balance between elegant and casual finds expression in the wide choice of dishes on offer. The upscale à la carte menu is replete with exceptional fish specialties, while the La Tradition menu, served only during the week, includes a terrine de la mer tiède et sa crème de Chablis (warm seafood terrine with a Chablis cream sauce) and joues de boeuf à la bourguignonne (beef cheeks cooked in a red wine sauce). | Average main: €25 | 49 Grande-Rue | 03–86–95–29–70 | www.restaurantlesjacobins.com | Reservations essential | Closed Wed. No dinner Sun. or Tues.

Paris & Poste.

HOTEL | At this inn, which began life as a canon’s house in 1776, guest rooms are clean, spacious, and well equipped—plus most open onto a patio. No. 42 is especially nice. Padded, green leather armchairs in the lounge and the little curved wooden bar give public areas a comfy charm. In the traditional red-and-gold restaurant (closed Sunday, no lunch Monday), chef–owner Phillipe Godard prepares with flair a broad range of prix-fixe menus. Pros: unbeatable value; central location; great food. Cons: rooms get some early-morning street noise. | Rooms from: €95 | 97 rue de la République | 03–86–65–17–43 | www.hotel-paris-poste.com | 30 rooms | No meals.

TROYES

64 km (40 miles) east of Sens, 150 km (95 miles) southeast of Paris.

The inhabitants of Troyes would be dismayed if you mistook them for Burgundians. After all, Troyes is the historic capital of the counts of Champagne, but we retain it here—closer to Burgundy’s treasures—because it’s some 80 km (50 miles) south of the heart of Champagne province. Troyes was also the home of the late-12th-century writer Chrétien (or Chrestien) de Troyes who, in seeking to please his patrons, Count Henry the Liberal and Marie de Champagne, penned the first Arthurian legends. Few, if any, other French town centers contain so much to see. In the Vauluisant and St-Jean districts, a web of enchanting pedestrian streets with timber-frame houses, magnificent churches, fine museums, and a wide choice of restaurants makes the Old Town—Vieux Troyes—especially appealing.

Keep an eye out for the delightful architectural accents that make Troyes unique: essentes, geometric chestnut tiles that keep out humidity and are fire resistant; and sculpted poteaux (in Troyes they are called montjoies), carvings at the joint of corner structural beams. There’s a lovely one of Adam and Eve next door to the Comtes de Champagne hotel. GPS-equipped audioguides (€4), available from the Troyes tourist office, will help history buffs make the most of a visit here. There’s enough to keep shoppers content, too. Along with its neighbors Provins and Bar-sur-Aube, Troyes was one of Champagne’s major fair towns in the Middle Ages. The wool trade gave way to cotton in the 18th century when Troyes became the heartland of hosiery; today Troyes draws millions of shoppers from all over Europe, who come to scour for bargains at its outlet clothing stores.

Getting Here

With the first train at 6:42 am, and then around one every hour until 10:12 pm, you can get to Troyes in about 90 minutes from Paris Gare de l’Est (€15–€20). Sens to Troyes is a little harder, with trains at, 2:35 pm, 3:34 pm, and 6:34 pm, which involve changing in Laroche Migennes or Saint Florentin Vergigny. The journey takes almost three hours and costs €19.60.

Visitor Information

Troyes Tourist Office. | 16 rue Aristide Briand | 08–92–22–46–09 €0.34 per min | www.tourisme-troyes.com.

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EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Basilique St-Urbain.

Started in 1261 and eventually consecrated in 1389 by Pope Urban IV (a native son), St-Urbain is one of the most remarkable churches in France—a perfect culmination of the Gothic quest to replace stone walls with stained glass. Its narrow porch frames a 13th-century Last Judgment tympanum, whose highly worked elements include a frieze of the dead rising out of their coffins (witness the grimacing skeleton) and an enormous crayfish (a testament to the local river culture). Inside, a chapel on the south side houses the Vièrge au Raisin (Virgin with Grapes), clutching Jesus with one hand and a bunch of Champagne grapes in the other. | Pl. Vernie | 03–25–73–37–13 | Free | May–Sept., Mon.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–7, Sun. 2–7; Oct.–Apr., Mon.–Sat. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5, Sun. 2–5.

Cathédrale St-Pierre St-Paul.

Dominating the heart of Troyes, this remarkable cathedral is a prime example of the Flamboyant Gothic style—regarded as the last gasp of the Middle Ages. Note the incomplete single-tower west front, the small Renaissance campaniles on top of the tower, and the artistry of Martin Chambiges, who worked on Troyes’s facade (with its characteristic large rose window and flamboyant flames) around the same time as he did the transept of Sens. At night the floodlighted features burst into dramatic relief. The cathedral’s vast five-aisle interior, refreshingly light thanks to large windows and the near-whiteness of the local stone, dates mainly from the 13th century. It has fine examples of 13th-century stained glass in the choir, such as the Tree of Jesse (a popular regional theme), and richly colored 16th-century glass in the nave and west front rose window. | Pl. St-Pierre | 03–25–76–98–18 | Free | May–Sept., Mon.–Sat. 10–1 and 2–7, Sun. 2–7; Oct.–Apr., Mon.–Sat. 9–noon and 1–5, Sun. 2–5.

Musée d’Art Moderne (Modern Art Museum).

Housed in the 16th- to 17th-century bishop’s palace, this museum’s magnificent interior features a wreath-and-cornucopia carved oak fireplace, ceilings with carved wood beams, and a Renaissance staircase. The jewel of the museum is the Lévy Collection (one of the finest provincial collections in France), which includes Art Deco glassware, tribal art, and an important group of Fauve paintings by André Derain and others. | Palais Épiscopal, Pl. St-Pierre | 03–25–76–26–80 | €5 | May–Sept., Tues.–Fri. 10–1 and 2–7, weekends 11–7; Oct.–Apr., Tues.–Fri. 10–noon and 2–5, weekends 11–6.

Musée St-Loup.

The former 18th-century abbey of St-Loup, to the side of the cathedral, now houses a superlative collection of paintings from the 15th to the 19th century—including works by Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony Van Dyck, Antoine Watteau, François Boucher, and Jacques-Louis David. Other exhibits are devoted to natural history, with impressive collections of birds and meteorites; local archaeological finds, most notably gold-mounted 5th-century jewelry and a Gallo-Roman bronze statue of Apollo; and medieval statuary. | 1 rue Chrestien-de-Troyes | 03–25–76–21–68 | €4 | May–Sept., Mon., Wed.–Fri. 10–1 and 2–7, weekends 11–7; Oct.–Apr., Mon., Wed.–Fri. 10–noon and 2–5, weekends 11–6.

Ste-Madeleine.

The oldest church in Troyes, Ste-Madeleine is best known for its elaborate triple-arch stone rood screen separating the nave and the choir. Only six other such screens still remain in France—most were dismantled during the French Revolution. This filigreed Flamboyant Gothic beauty was carved with panache by Jean Gailde between 1508 and 1517. The superbly tranquil Garden of the Innocents, established on the ancient “children’s graveyard,” symbolizes medieval spirituality. | Rue de la Madeleine | 03–25–73–82–90 | Free | May–Sept., Mon.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–7, Sun. 2–7; Oct.–Apr., Mon.–Sat. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5, Sun. 2–5.

Worth Noting

FAMILY | Hôtel de Vauluisant.

This charmingly turreted 16th- to 17th-century mansion contains two museums: the Musée d’Art Champenois (Regional Art Museum) and the Musée de la Bonneterie (Textile-Hosiery Museum). The former traces the development of Troyes and southern Champagne, with a particularly rich selection of religious sculptures and paintings of the late-Gothic era; the latter outlines the history and manufacturing procedures of the town’s 18th- to 19th-century textile industry. | 4 rue de Vauluisant | 03–25–43–43–20 | Joint ticket for both museums €3 | May–Sept., Wed. 2–7, Thurs. and Fri. 10–1 and 2–7, weekends 11–1 and 2–7; Oct.–Apr., Wed. and Thurs. 2–5, Fri.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–5.

Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall).

Place du Maréchal-Foch, the main square of Troyes, is flanked by cafés, shops, and this delightful town hall. The central facade has black marble columns and a niche with a helmeted Minerva, which replaced a statue of Louis XIV that was destroyed during the French Revolution. In summer the square is filled with people from morning to night. | Pl. du Maréchal-Foch.

Hôtel-Dieu (Hospital).

Across the Bassin de la Préfecture, an arm of the Seine, is this historic hospital, fronted by superb 18th-century wrought-iron gates topped with the blue-and-gold fleurs-de-lis emblems of the French monarchy. Around the corner is the entrance to the Apothicairerie de l’Hôtel-Dieu, a former medical laboratory, the only part of the Hôtel-Dieu open to visitors. Inside, time has been suspended: floral-painted boxes and ceramic jars containing medicinal plants line the antique shelves. | Quai des Comtes de Champagne | 03–25–80–98–97 | €2 | May–Sept., Wed. 2–7, Thurs. and Fri. 10–1 and 2–7, weekends 11–1 and 2–7; Oct.–Apr., Wed. 2–5, Thurs.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–5.

Hôtel du Petit Louvre.

This former coaching inn is a handsome example of 16th-century architecture. | Pl. du Préau.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Bistroquet.

BRASSERIE | Everything here is authentic, from the splendid Belle Époque decor to the rustic homemade cuisine. The two- and three-course dinner menus offer a choice of brasserie classics, including homemade pâté, homemade blood sausage brochettes, and a crack at the infamous, local delicacy: a homemade AAAAA andouillette sausage—the acronym stands for Association Amicale des Amateurs d’Andouillette Authentique (Amicable Association of Lovers of Authentic Andouillette), a very select designation. Although andouillette (made with pork intestines) is an acquired taste, it’s one well worth acquiring, and is made especially well here. Desserts are equally imposing, including the all-you-can-eat chocolate mousse. | Average main: €18 | 10 rue Louis Ulbach | 03–25–73–65–65 | www.bistroquet-troyes.fr | No dinner Sun. Closed Sun. end of July–mid-Sept.

Comtes de Champagne.

HOTEL | In Vieux Troyes’s topsy-turvy 16th-century former mint, this bargain find has a quaint inner courtyard and pleasant, refurbished rooms with iron bedsteads. The largest room, on the second floor, is also one of the few with its own bath. The two couples who co-manage it, the Guibourets and the Picards, are friendly hosts. Pros: affordable, old-fashioned charm; central location; suites have kitchenettes. Cons: bathrooms are a bit plain and small; no air-conditioning. | Rooms from: €72 | 54–56 rue de la Monnaie | 03–25–73–11–70 | www.comtesdechampagne.com | 29 rooms, 6 suites | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Champ des Oiseaux.

HOTEL | Tin chandeliers, Nantes silk and calico hangings, antique scrollwork panels, and other traditional luxe touches make lodgings in this trio of vine-clad, pink-and-yellow 15th- and 16th-century houses especially alluring. The largest guest room, the Suite Loft, is under the oak-beam eaves, while the Salle Bleue (Blue Room) looks worthy of the cover of Maison Française. The guest salon is set in a vaulted cave-wine cellar fitted out with the latest in soigné furniture. From the name (for the city’s centuries-old roosting haunts of storks) to the daub-and-wattle facade abuzz with the pattern of timbered logs, a storybook courtyard, and a fairy-tale staircase, this is a truly magical retreat. Pros: quiet, comfortable rooms; genial service; kid friendly. Cons: parking costs extra. | Rooms from: €199 | 20 rue Linard-Gonthier | 03–25–80–58–50 | Fax 03–25–80–98–34 | www.champdesoiseaux.com | 9 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.

Relais St-Jean.

HOTEL | In this half-timber hotel, in the pedestrian zone near the church of St-Jean, rooms are refreshingly done in a sleek modern style, with white-and-pastel-color walls that contrast tastefully with sophisticated, multihued furnishings. Some rooms are connected by a path running through the second floor’s tree-filled atrium. The powder-pink velvet upholstery in the predominantly dark-wall bar is worth sinking into for a pre-dinner cocktail. Pros: good-size rooms; friendly service; interesting bar. Cons: rooms sometimes feel overheated and some get street noise. | Rooms from: €98 | 51 rue Paillot-de-Montabert | 03–25–73–89–90 | www.relais-st-jean.com | 24 rooms | No meals.

SHOPPING

If there’s an ideal place for a shopping spree, it’s Troyes. Many clothing manufacturers are just outside town, clustered together in three large suburban malls: Marques Avenue, in St-Julien-les-Villas (take D671 toward Dijon), and Marques City and McArthur Glen, in Pont-Ste-Marie (take D677 toward Châlons-en-Champagne). Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein at McArthur Glen face off with Laura Ashley at Marques Avenue and Doc Martens at Marques City, to name a few of the shops. The malls are open weekdays 10–7, and Saturday 9:30–7.

AUXERRE

58 km (36 miles) southeast of Sens.

Auxerre is an evocative, architecturally interesting town with a trio of imposing churches perched above the Yonne River and an ample supply of antique houses. Yet it’s an underappreciated place, perhaps because of its location, midway between Paris and Dijon. Fanning out from Auxerre’s main square, place des Cordeliers (just up from the cathedral), are a number of steep, crooked streets lined with half-timber and stone buildings. The best way to see them is to start from the riverside on the quai de la République, where you can find the tourist office (and pick up a handy local map); then continue along the quai de la Marine. The medieval arcaded gallery of the Ancien Evêché (Old Bishop’s Palace), now an administrative building, is just visible on the hillside beside the tourist office. At 9 rue de la Marine (which leads off one of several riverside squares) are the two oldest houses in Auxerre, dating from the end of the 14th century. Continue up the hill to rue de l’Yonne, which leads into the rue Cochois. Here, at No. 23, is the higgledy-piggledy home and shop of a maître verrier (lead-glass maker). Closer to the center of town, the most beautiful of Auxerre’s many poteaux (the carved tops of wooden corner posts) can be seen at 8 rue Joubert. The building dates from the late 15th century, and its Gothic tracery windows, acorns, and oak leaves are an open-air masterpiece.

Getting Here

Seven direct trains arrive daily from Paris’s Gare de Bercy (€28.30). Twelve daily trains link Auxerre to Montbard (€17.80), mostly via Laroche-Migennes, with Dijon (€26.40) being at the end of line. Les Rapides de Bourgogne buses link Auxerre to Sens (90 mins, €2.50), Chablis (20 mins, €2.50), and other destinations. If you’re driving, Auxerre is served by several major arteries, including the A6 (Autoroute of the Sun) and the D606/D906.

Visitor Information

Auxerre Tourist Office. | 1 quai de la République | 03–86–51–03–26 | www.ot-auxerre.fr.

EXPLORING

Abbaye de St-Germain.

North of Place des Cordeliers is the former Abbaye de St-Germain, which stands parallel to the cathedral some 300 yards away. The church’s earliest aboveground section is the 12th-century Romanesque bell tower, but the extensive underground crypt was inaugurated by Charles the Bald in 859 and contains its original Carolingian frescoes and Ionic capitals. It’s the only monument of its kind in Europe—a layout retaining the plan of the long-gone church built above it—and was a place of pilgrimage until Huguenots burned the remains of its namesake, a Gallo-Roman governor and bishop of Auxerre, in the 16th century. | Pl. St-Germain | 03–86–18–02–90 | €6.50 crypt | May–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 9:45–6:45; Oct.–Apr., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5.

Cathédrale St-Étienne.

The town’s dominant feature is the ascending line of three magnificent churches—St-Pierre, St-Étienne, and St-Germain—with the Cathédrale St-Étienne, in the middle, rising majestically above the squat houses around it. The 13th-century choir, the oldest part of the edifice, contains its original stained glass, dominated by brilliant reds and blues. Beneath the choir, the frescoed 11th-century Romanesque crypt keeps company with the treasury, which has a panoply of medieval enamels, manuscripts, and miniatures, plus a rare depiction of Christ on horseback. A 75-minute son-et-lumière show focusing on Roman Gaul is presented every evening from June to September. | Pl. St-Étienne | 03–86–52–23–29 | www.cathedrale-auxerre.com | Crypt €3, treasury €1.90 | Easter–Nov., Mon.–Sat. 7:30–6, Sun. 2–5; Nov.–Easter, Mon.–Sat. 10–5.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Jardin Gourmand.

MODERN FRENCH | This restaurant in a former manor house has a pretty garden (jardin) where you can dine on summer evenings, as well as an organic vegetable garden producing fresh herbs, gorgeous greens, and other foods that wind up on the table. The interior, accented by subtle-yellow panels and polished wood floors, is congenial and elegant, while the menu, which changes eight times a year, shows both flair and invention, drawing inspiration from the finest, seasonal ingredients and an excellent cellar. The staff is discreet and friendly. | Average main: €40 | 56 bd. Vauban | 03–86–51–53–52 | www.lejardingourmand.com | Closed 1 wk in Mar., last 2 wks of June; no dinner Sun.; no lunch Mon. or Tues.

Château de Ribourdin.

B&B/INN | Retired farmer Claude Brodard began building his chambres d’hôte (bed-and-breakfast) in an old stable, bucolically enshrined just south of Auxerre, almost 20 years ago, and the cozy, comfortable, reasonably priced rooms overlook his fields. Château de Laborde is the smallest, sunniest, and most intimate room. Homemade preserves—cassis, quince, and carrot—are served at breakfast. Pros: tasteful rooms; beautiful location; great complimentary breakfast; swimming pool. Cons: can feel a little isolated; no credit cards. | Rooms from: €90 | 8 rte. de Ribourdin, 8 km (5 miles) southwest of Auxerre on D1 | Chevannes | 03–86–41–23–16 | www.chateauderibourdin.com | 5 rooms | No credit cards | Breakfast.

Normandie.

HOTEL | This rather grand, vine-covered 19th-century mansion close to the center of Auxerre, just a short walk from the cathedral, provides unpretentious guest rooms, as well as a terrace that is a nice place to relax after a long day of sightseeing. A recent makeover has reinforced the true quality of this address. Pros: tidy rooms with nice bathrooms; helpful staff; billiards room and gym; and garage. Cons: not in town center. | Rooms from: €88 | 41 bd. Vauban | 03–86–52–57–80 | www.hotelnormandie.fr | 47 rooms | No meals.

CHABLIS

16 km (10 miles) east of Auxerre.

The pretty village of Chablis is poised amid the hillside vineyards that produce its famous white wine on the banks of the River Serein and protected, perhaps from an ill wind, by the massive, round, turreted towers of the Porte Noël gateway. Although in America Chablis has become a generic name for cheap white wine, it’s not so in France: here it’s a bone-dry, slightly acacia-tasting wine of tremendous character, with the premier cru and grand cru wines standing head to head with the best French whites. Prices in the local shops tend to be inflated, so your best bet is to buy directly from a vineyard; keep in mind that most are closed Sunday. Check out www.chablis.fr for more information on Chablis and the region’s vineyards.

Getting Here

Les Rapides de Bourgogne buses from Auxerre run Monday through Saturday at 11:45 am, 5:15 pm (both on request only | 08–00–30–33–09), and 5:55 pm (20 mins, €2.50).

EXPLORING

Chablis Tourist Office.

The town’s tourist office will provide information on nearby cellars where you can take tours, taste wine, and learn all you need to know about the region’s illustrious wine tradition. The Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne’s website (www.vins-bourgogne.fr) is another helpful resource—it’s a veritable portal to everything wine related in Burgundy. | Rue du Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny | 03–86–42–80–80 | www.chablis.net | June–Sept., daily 10–12:30 and 1:30–7; Oct.–Easter, Mon.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 1:30–6; Easter–May, daily 10–12:30 and 1:30–6.

Chablis Vititours.

Personalized wine-themed excursions for two to six people are offered by Chablis Vititours. Choose a full- or half-day vineyards tour followed by a cellar visit and tasting opportunity (€140 and €65 respectively), or a 90-minute outing that includes a glass of wine (€25). Transportation is by air-conditioned minibus. | 06–11–47–82–98 | www.chablis-vititours.fr.

Antonin Rodet.

Makers of fine wines since 1875, Antonin Rodet delivers a complete range of high quality but reasonably priced Burgundies. Four house-label wines can be tasted. Rodet has acquired a number of château wineries all over the region, but a visit to Château de Rully (Hautes Côtes de Beaune) or Château de Mercey (Hautes Côtes de Beaune) is a memorable experience. | 55 Grande Rue | Mercurey | 03–85–98–12–12 | www.rodet.com | €6 | Apr.–Oct., weekdays 9–noon and 2–6, weekends 10–noon and 2–6:30; Nov.–Mar., weekdays 9–noon and 2–5.

Bouchard Père et Fils Château de Beaune.

Bouchard is one of the major domaines and négociants in Beaune. Its unparalleled legacy of 50,000 bottles from the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits appellations includes a unique collection of rare vintages dating back to the 19th century. The museum and 15th-century cellar is accessible year round, but call for the times of the guided tours in English; the extensive tasting (€19) is by appointment only. | Caveau Bouchard Père & Fils,15 Rue du Château | Beaune | 03–80–24–80–45 | www.bouchard-pereetfils.com | Museum and cellar: Apr.–Nov., Mon.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2:30–6:30, Sun. 10–12:30 (closed at 5:30 and all day Sun. Dec.–Mar.).

Château de Marsannay.

Situated a few kilometers south of Dijon at the beginning of the Route des Grands Crus, this domaine has vineyards that extend down to Vosne Romanée. It specializes in all three colors of Marsannay AOP (red, white, and rosé), but also produces Fixin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée, and Clos de Vougeot. Tours of its gleaming facilities (built in 1990 in traditional Burgundy-style) include a visit to the cellars and a tasting of either six wines, including one Premier Cru (€11), or seven wines, including two Premier Crus and one Grand Cru (€16). English is spoken. | 2 rue des Vignes | Marsannay-la-Côte | 03–80–51–71–11 | www.chateau-marsannay.com | May–Sept., daily 10–6.30; Oct.–Apr., daily 10–noon and 2–6 | Closed Sun. late Dec.–Mar.

Château de Meursault.

A miraculous Meursault has been produced at this elegant spot since the seventh century. Walk up the Allée des Maronniers through the vines to the château’s cour d’honneur. Visits to cellars dating from the 14th and 16th centuries and an art gallery are part of the free-range tour, which includes a sommelier-aided tasting of five wines (€18). More elaborate theme-based guided tours (€35) are available by appointment. English is spoken. | Château de Meursault, Rue du Moulin Foulot | Meursault | 03–80–26–22–75 | www.meursault.com | Daily 9:30–6:30 (9:30–noon and 2–6 in winter) | Jan.–mid-Feb., closed Sun.

Château de Santenay.

This majestic 9th- to 16th-century castle is the former residence of Philippe le Hardi, son of the king of France. The surrounding estate—one of the largest in Burgundy—has 237 acres of vines; and a visit to it culminates with a tasting of four wines. The award-wining Saint-Aubin “En Vesvau,” matured and aged in wooden casks, is a must-try, as is the Château Philippe le Hardi AOP Aloxe-Corton “Les Brunettes et Planchots.” The tour and wine tasting (€6.50) is by appointment only. English is spoken. | 1 rue du Chateau | Santenay | 03–80–20–61–87 | www.chateau-de-santenay.com | €6.50 | Apr.–Nov., Thurs.–Tues. 10–noon and 2–6.

Flight Cru

If Burgundy looks sublime from the ground, have you ever wondered what it looks like from the air? Wonder no longer: put a little wind beneath your wine-soaked wings. Prices range from €165 to €229 per person for a 90-minute flight, generally in the early morning or late afternoon.

France Montgolfières Balloon Flights.

France Montgolfières Balloon Flights can float you for hours over Vézelay and the Beaune region. Tickets are transferable and valid throughout the company’s extensive ballooning network should local weather be a problem. | 02–80–97–38–61 | www.franceballoons.com | Flights Mar.–Oct.

Montgolfières Air Escargot.

Montgolfières Air Escargot features some unforgettable 60- to 90-minute flights over the châteaux of Burgundy. The price may be stratospheric, but so is the experience. Outings include free pickup and drop-off. | 03–85–87–12–30 | www.air-escargot.com | Flights Apr.–Oct., early morning or late afternoon.

WHERE TO STAY

Hostellerie des Clos.

HOTEL | Rooms at this moderately priced inn are simply, yet smartly, decorated; most people, however, come for Chef Michel Vignaud’s cooking, which is some of the best in the region. Signature dishes include seared foie gras served with caramelized apples and figs, and fillet of Charolais steak with a Pinot Noir sauce. Pros: newer rooms are large and well-appointed; stellar food; great location. Cons: older rooms are a bit small; bathrooms in lower-grade lodgings have showers only. | Rooms from: €95 | 18 rue Jules-Rathier | 03–86–42–10–63 | www.hostellerie-des-clos.fr | 26 rooms, 10 suites | No meals.

Hôtel du Vieux Moulin.

HOTEL | Understated chic meets 18th-century authenticity at this boutique-style hotel in a converted water mill. Antique brick walls, oak beams, and terra-cotta tile floors are beautifully balanced by a sleek contemporary decor and modern comforts, such as gleaming bathrooms, air-conditioning, and plasma-screen TVs. Because it’s owned by Domaine Laroche (a mainstream Chablis producer) breakfast includes a panoramic view of grand cru vines, and wine tastings can be enjoyed in the ground-floor boutique. Pros: central location; suites have two bathrooms. Cons: some rooms lack tubs. | Rooms from: €140 | 18 rue des Moulins | 03–86–42–47–30 | www.larochehotel.fr | 5 rooms, 2 suites | Closed late Dec.–mid-Jan. | No meals.

TANLAY

26 km (16 miles) east of Chablis.

Built along the banks of the Canal de Bourgogne, Tanlay is a sleepy village that’s best known for the Renaissance-style château that sits slap bang in the center of it. A stopover for cruise boats, the tree-lined banks of the canal are also a pleasant place to stroll.

Getting Here

Buses operated by Les Rapides de Bourgogne run daily from Auxerre to Tonnerre (68 mins, €2); in summer, a second bus will take you the rest of the way to Château de Tanlay for €2 (4 daily, Wednesday–Sunday).

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Tanlay.

Unlike most aristocrats who heeded the royal summons to live at Versailles and fled the countryside, the Marquis and Marquise de Tanlay opted to live here among their village retainers. As a result, the Château de Tanlay, built around 1550, never fell into neglect and is a masterpiece of French early Baroque. Spectacularly adorned with rusticated obelisks, pagoda-like towers, the finest in French Classicist ornamentation, and a “grand canal,” the château is centered around a typical cour d’honneur. Inside, the Hall of Caesars vestibule, framed by wrought-iron railings, leads to a wood-panel salon and dining room filled with period furniture. A graceful staircase climbs to the second floor, which has the showstopper: a gigantic gallery frescoed in Italianate trompe l’oeil. A small room in the tower above was used as a secret meeting place by Huguenot Protestants during the 1562–98 Wars of Religion; note the cupola with its fresco of scantily clad 16th-century religious personalities. | 03–86–75–70–61 | www.chateaudetanlay.fr | €9 | Gardens Apr.–Oct., Wed.–Mon. 9.45–12:30 and 2:15–6.30; château by guided tour Wed.–Mon. at 10, 11:30, 2:15, 3:15, 4:15, and 5:15.

ANCY-LE-FRANC

14 km (9 miles) southeast of Tanlay.

It may be strange to find a textbook example of the Italian Renaissance in Ancy-le-Franc, but in mid-16th-century France the court had taken up this import as the latest rage. So, quick to follow the fashion and gain kingly favor, the Comte de Tonnerre decided to create a family seat using all the artists François I (1515–47) had summoned from Italy to his court at Fontainebleau.

Getting Here

Les Rapides de Bourgogne has daily service from Auxerre to Tonnerre (68 mins, €2); in summer, you can take a second bus onward to Château d’Ancy-le-Franc for €2 (4 daily, Wednesday–Sunday).

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Château d’Ancy-le-Franc.

Built from Sebastiano Serlio’s designs, with interior blandishments by Primaticcio, the Château d’Ancy-le-Franc is an important example of Italianism, less for its plain, heavy exterior than for its sumptuous rooms and apartments, many with carved or painted walls and ceilings and original furnishings. Niccolò dell’Abate and other court artists created the magnificent Chambre des Arts (Art Gallery) and other rooms filled with murals depicting the signs of the zodiac, the Battle of Pharsala, and the motif of Diana in Her Bath (much favored by Diane de Poitiers, sister of the Comtesse de Tonnerre). Such grandeur won the approval of no less than the Sun King, Louis XIV, who once stayed in the Salon Bleu (Blue Room). The east wing of the ground floor, which housed Diane de Poitier’s apartments, has recently been restored. Highlights here include Diane’s bedroom with its 16th-century murals. | 18 Pl. Clermont-Tonnerre | 03–86–75–14–63 | www.chateau-ancy.com | Château €9; château and park €13 | Apr.–mid-Nov., tours Tues.–Sun. at 10:30, 11:30, 2, 3, 4, and 5; Oct.–mid-Nov., no tour at 5. | Closed Mon.

MONTBARD

45 km (28 miles) southeast of Tonnerre.

Attractions in this modest town on the banks of the Brenne river include an Ursuline convent that’s been converted into a Musée des Beaux Arts and lovely Parc Buffon. The gardens of the latter were planted on the site of an ancient château by Georges-Louis Leclerc de Buffon (the Count of Buffon), an important scientist and naturalist who influenced Charles Darwin. Just outside of town, the work of another man—St. Bernard—draws visitors to the 12th-century Abbaye de Fontenay

Getting Here

Frequent daily TER trains run to Montbard direct from Dijon (€13.30), and TGV service from Paris’s Gare de Lyon is offered four times a day (€43). Abbaye de Fontenay—in Marmagne, a mere 6 km (3 miles) away—is easily reached by car; if you don’t have your own, cab fare is about €10. Rental bikes are also available through the Montbard tourist office

Visitor Information

Montbard Tourist Office. | Pl. de la Gare, | Montbard | 03–80–92–53–81 | www.ot-montbard.fr.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Abbaye de Fontenay.

The best-preserved of the Cistercian abbeys, the Abbaye de Fontenay was founded in 1118 by St. Bernard. The same Cistercian criteria applied to Fontenay as to Pontigny: no-frills architecture and an isolated site—the spot was especially remote, for it had been decreed that these monasteries could not be established anywhere near “cities, feudal manors, or villages.” The monks were required to live a completely self-sufficient existence, with no contact whatsoever with the outside world. By the end of the 12th century the buildings were finished, and the abbey’s community grew to some 300 monks. Under the protection of Pope Gregory IX and Hughes IV, duke of Burgundy, the monastery soon controlled huge land holdings, vineyards, and timberlands. It prospered until the 16th century, when religious wars and administrative mayhem hastened its decline. Dissolved during the French Revolution, the abbey was used as a paper factory until 1906. Fortunately, the historic buildings emerged unscathed. The abbey is surrounded by extensive, immaculately tended gardens dotted with the fountains that gave it its name. The church’s solemn interior is lightened by windows in the facade and by a double row of three narrow windows, representing the Trinity, in the choir. A staircase in the south transept leads to the wooden-roof dormitory (spare a thought for the bleary-eyed monks, obliged to stagger down for services in the dead of night). The chapter house, flanked by a majestic arcade, and the scriptorium, where monks worked on their manuscripts, lead off from the adjoining cloisters. | 6 km (3 miles) from Montbard TGV station | Marmagne | 03–80–92–15–00 | www.abbayedefontenay.com | €10 | Apr.–mid-Nov., daily 10–6; mid-Nov.–Mar., daily 10–noon and 2–5.

VÉZELAY

48 km (30 miles) west of Abbaye de Fontenay.

In the 11th and 12th centuries Vézelay was one of the most important places of pilgrimage in the Christian world. Today the hilltop village is picturesque and somewhat isolated. Its one main street, rue St-Étienne, climbs steeply and stirringly to the summit and its medieval basilica, world-famous for its Romanesque sculpture. In summer you have to leave your car at the bottom and walk up. Off-season you can drive up and look for parking in the square.

In addition to the artistic treasures of Basilique Ste-Madeleine, Vézelay has other Romanesque-era delights. Hiding below its narrow ruelles (small streets) are several medieval cellars that once sheltered pilgrims. Sections of several houses have arches and columns dating from the 12th and 13th centuries: don’t miss the hostelry across from the tourist office and, next to it, the house where Louis VII, Eleanor of Aquitaine, and the king’s religious supremo Abbé Suger, stayed when they came to hear St. Bernard preach the Second Crusade in 1146.

Getting Here

To get reach Vézelay, you can take a TER train to Sermizelles from Paris’s Gare de Bercy (about 2 hrs, 30 mins; €33); the remaining 10 km (6 miles) into town is covered by a shuttle bus twice daily (€3).

Visitor Information

Vézelay Tourist Office. | 12 rue St-Étienne | 03–86–33–23–69 | www.vezelaytourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Basilique Ste-Madeleine.

In the 11th and 12th centuries the celebrated Basilique Ste-Madeleine was one of the focal points of Christendom. Pilgrims poured in to see the relics of St. Mary Magdalene (in the crypt) before setting off on the great trek to the shrine of St. James at Santiago de Compostela, in northwest Spain. Several pivotal church declarations of the Middle Ages were made from here, including St. Bernard’s preaching of the Second Crusade (which attracted a huge French following) and Thomas à Becket’s excommunication of English king Henry II. By the mid-13th century the authenticity of St. Mary’s relics was in doubt; others had been discovered in Provence. The basilica’s decline continued until the French Revolution, when the basilica and adjoining monastery buildings were sold by the state. Only the basilica, cloister, and dormitory escaped demolition, and were falling into ruin when ace restorer Viollet-le-Duc, sent by his mentor Prosper Merimée, rode to the rescue in 1840 (he also restored the cathedrals of Laon and Amiens and Paris’s Notre-Dame).

Today the UNESCO-listed basilica has recaptured much of its glory and is considered to be one of France’s most prestigious Romanesque showcases. The exterior tympanum was redone by Viollet-le-Duc (have a look at the eroded original as you exit the cloister), but the narthex (circa 1150) is a Romanesque masterpiece. Note the interwoven zodiac signs and depictions of seasonal crafts along its rim, similar to those at both Troyes and Autun. The pilgrims’ route around the building is indicated by the majestic flowers, which metamorphose into full-blown blooms, over the left-hand entrance on the right; an annual procession is still held on July 22. The basilica’s exterior is best seen from the leafy terrace to the right of the facade. Opposite, a vast, verdant panorama encompasses vines, lush valleys, and rolling hills. In the foreground is the Flamboyant Gothic spire of St-Père-sous-Vézelay, a tiny village 3 km (2 miles) away that is the site of L’Espérance, Marc Meneau’s famed restaurant. | Pl. de la Basilique | 03–86–33–39–50 | www.basiliquedevezelay.org | Free; guided tour €3.60 (phone for reservations) | Daily 8–8.

Château de Bazoches.

Just 10 km (6 miles) outside Vézelay in the small town of Bazoches-du-Morvan is Château de Bazoches, the former home of Sébastien de Vauban. Built during the 12th century in the stolid form of a trapezium with four towers and a keep, the building was bought by Vauban in 1675 with the money Louis XIV awarded him for devising the parallel trenches successfully used in the siege of Maastricht. Vauban transformed the building into a fortress and created many of his military engineering designs here. Vauban is considered the “father of civil engineering” and his innovations influenced innumerable forts throughout France. His designs and furnishings of his day are on display. | 10 mins from Vezelay on D958 | Bazoches-du-Morvan | 03–86–22–10–22 | www.chateau-bazoches.com | €8.50 | Mar., daily 2–6; Apr.–June and Sept., daily 9:30–noon and 2:15–6; Oct.–mid-Nov., daily 9:30–noon and 2:15–5; July and Aug. and some holidays, daily 9:30–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Bougainville.

FRENCH | One of the few affordable restaurants in this well-heeled town occupies an old house with a fireplace in the dining room and the requisite Burgundian color scheme of brown, yellow, and ocher. Philippe Guillemard presides in the kitchen, turning out regional favorites like hare stew, crayfish, escargot ragout in Chardonnay sauce, and venison with chestnuts. He has also devised a vegetarian menu—a rarity in Burgundy—with such deeply satisfying dishes as vegetable pot au feu. | Average main: €30 | 26 rue St-Étienne | 03–86–33–27–57 | Reservations essential | Closed Mon.–Wed., and mid-Nov.–mid-Feb.

La Cimentelle.

B&B/INN | Originally part of the Vassy cement works, this elegant 19th-century manor offers comfortable guest rooms decorated with family heirlooms; even the bathrooms are inviting (the “Hippolyte” room, for instance, has an open-plan one with a freestanding tub near the fireplace). Generous breakfasts—including homemade jams, light-as-air pancakes, and fresh croissants—are served in the pretty conservatory at intimate individual tables; convivial evening meals (reservations essential) are served around a communal table. Pros: idyllic setting; friendly owners; outdoor pool; breakfast included. Cons: a car is essential. | Rooms from: €114 | 21 km (13 miles) northeast of Vezelay,4 rue de la Cimentelle | Vassy-Les-Avallon | 03–86–31–04–85 | www.lacimentelle.com | 3 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | L’Espérance.

HOTEL | Chef Marc Meneau heads one of the greatest kitchens in Burgundy, serving a casserole of Bresse pigeon and Breton lobster, scallops with a sea urchin-based sauce, and other creations next to a stream and in a large, statue-filled garden. His luckiest diners lodge onsite in contemporary guest quarters. Accommodations, which vary in price, form a delightful trinity: you can choose between pleasant rooms overlooking the garden; ones in the annex, the Pré des Marguerites; and full suites in a renovated mill, done up in a cozy style anglais. Note that the restaurant (reservations essential) is closed Tuesday and there’s no lunch Monday or Wednesday. Pros: spectacular restaurant; bucolic setting. Cons: uneven service; some rooms are uninspiring. | Rooms from: €185 | St-Père-sous-Vézelay | 03–86–33–39–10 | www.marc-meneau-esperance.com | 17 rooms, 8 suites | Closed mid-Jan.–early Mar. | No meals.

L’Hôtel de la Poste et du Lion d’Or.

HOTEL | A terrace out front welcomes you to this rambling hotel, which features light, bright (if somewhat staid) rooms—most with private balconies. It has a gastronomic restaurant, plus a new wave bistro that serves high-quality, affordable lunchtime cuisine, Tuesday through Saturday. Pros: good-size rooms with balconies; good food; friendly staff; great location. Cons: some rooms get street noise, the bistro is very touristy, and can be overcrowded. | Rooms from: €117 | Pl. du Champ-de-Foire | 03–86–33–21–23 | www.laposte-liondor.com | 40 rooms | Closed Jan. and Feb.

Manoir de Val en Sel.

B&B/INN | Five classically decorated, color-coded rooms—all with private entrances and en suite bathrooms—are set in a picturesque 18th-century country residence and surround a spectacular walled flower garden that’s hailed as one of the world’s finest. Within walking distance of Vézelay itself and on the edge of the Morvan, this is an ideal base for touring the region. Pros: gardens are a fragrant haven of calm; comfortable, spacious rooms. Cons: car essential; credit cards aren’t accepted. | Rooms from: €110 | 1 Chemin de la Fontaine | St-Père-sous-Vézelay | 03–86–33–26–95 | valensel.vezelay.free.fr | 3 rooms, 2 suites | No credit cards | Closed mid-Nov.–Apr. | No meals.

SAULIEU

48 km (30 miles) southeast of Vézelay.

Saulieu’s reputation belies its size: it’s renowned for good food (Rabelais, that roly-poly 16th-century man of letters, extolled its gargantuan hospitality) and for Christmas trees (a staggering million are packed and sent off from the area each year).

Getting Here

You can drive to Saulieu via the A6; otherwise, take a train to Montbard (a TGV station stop), and then catch a bus into town (€1.50).

EXPLORING

Basilique St-Andoche.

The town’s Basilique St-Andoche, one of Burgundy’s finest Romanesque churches, is almost as old as that in Vézelay, though less imposing and much restored. Note the impressive Romanesque nave with 12th-century carved capitals. | 4 rue Savot | 03–80–64–07–03 | Nov.–Apr., Tues.–Sat 9–noon and 2–4:30; May–Oct., Tues.–Sat. 9–noon and 2–6:30, Sun. 2–6:30.

Musée François-Pompon.

Beside the basilica, Musée François-Pompon is partly devoted to the work of animal-bronze sculptor Pompon (1855–1933), whose smooth, stylized creations seem contemporary but predate World War II. The museum also contains Gallo-Roman funeral stones, sacred art, and a room highlighting local gastronomic lore. | 3 pl. Dr. Roclore | 03–80–64–19–51 | €3 | Apr.–Sept., Mon. 10–12:30, Wed.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–6, Sun. 10:30–noon and 2:30–5; Oct.–Dec. and Mar., Mon. 10–12:30, Wed.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–5:30, Sun. 10:30–noon and 2:30–5.

WHERE TO STAY

Hostellerie La Tour d’Auxois.

HOTEL | The retro zinc-topped bar, stone floors, and log fire strike a perfect balance with the modern-day comfort of this traditional, family-run hotel. Once a convent, its unpretentious rooms are notable for their neutral palette and rustic touches; some have exposed beams, and the best come with a view of the garden, pool, and the Tour d’Auxois. Bathrooms are compact, but up-to-scratch. An on-site restaurant serves tasty dishes with a contemporary twist. Pros: a budget lodging option if you want to splash out on Patrick Bertron’s cuisine across the road at Relais Bernard Loiseau; the pool is a welcome amenity. Cons: rooms facing the busy road can be noisy; some look a bit worn. | Rooms from: €99 | Sq. Alexandre Dumaine | 03–80–64–36–19 | www.tourdauxois.com | 23 rooms, 6 suites | Closed mid-Jan.–mid-Feb, late Nov.–mid-Dec, and Mon. Oct.–Mar. | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Relais Bernard Loiseau.

HOTEL | At Relais Bernard Loiseau, lovely lodgings ooze rustic-chic with exposed beams, traditional red-clay tile floors, and elegantly understated furnishings. Rooms vary in size but are charming overall and can come with perks like fireplaces or balconies that face the gorgeous garden courtyard. Many folks who come here, however, are more interested in the chapel-like dining room than the guest rooms. Chef Patrick Bertron turns out a feather-light nouvelle version of rich Burgundian fare pioneered by the late Bernard Loiseau, one of France’s culinary superstars. Maximize your dining pleasure by indulging in Benoît Charvet’s superb desserts and libations from the impressive wine list (a large selection can be ordered by the glass). Pros: first-class facilities include a spa and pool; stellar food. Cons: restaurant prices are stratospheric; closed mid-week. | Rooms from: €198 | 2 rue d’Argentine, off D906 | 03–80–90–53–53 | www.bernard-loiseau.com | 17 rooms, 12 suites | Closed late Jan. and Feb., and Tues. and Wed. | No meals.

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The Historic Center | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Nightlife and the Arts

38 km (23 miles) northeast of Châteauneuf, 315 km (195 miles) southeast of Paris.

You may never have been to Dijon but you’ve certainly tasted it. Many of the gastronomic specialties that originated here are known worldwide. They include snails (many now imported from the Czech Republic), mustard (although the handmade variety is becoming a lost art), and Cassis (a black-currant liqueur often mixed with white wine—preferably Burgundy Aligoté—to make Kir, the popular aperitif). The city itself is also a feast for the eyes, with charming streets, chic shops, and an impressive array of medieval art. It has magnificent half-timber houses and hôtels particuliers, some rivaling those in Paris. There’s also a striking trio of central churches, built one following the other for three distinct parishes—St-Bénigne, its facade distinguished by Gothic galleries; St-Philibert, Dijon’s only Romanesque church (with Merovingian vestiges); and St-Jean, an asymmetrical building now used as a theater. On top of that, it has a tourist-friendly scale: indeed many travelers feel it is the perfect French community, possessing the charm of a village as well as the sophistication and liveliness you’d expect of a capital.

Dijon was a major player in the history of the region. Throughout the Middle Ages, Burgundy was a duchy that led a separate existence from the rest of France, culminating in the rule of the four “Grand Dukes of the West” between 1364 and 1477—Philippe le Hardi (the Bold), Jean Sans Peur (the Fearless), Philippe le Bon (the Good), and the unfortunate Charles le Téméraire (the Foolhardy, whose defeat by French king Louis XI at Nancy spelled the end of Burgundian independence). A number of monuments date from this period, including the Palais des Ducs (Ducal Palace), now largely converted into an art museum. Luckily, Dijon’s fame and fortune outlasted the dukes, and it flourished under French rule from the 17th century on. It has remained the largest city in Burgundy—and the only one with more than 150,000 inhabitants; moreover, its location, on the major European north–south trade route and within striking distance of the Swiss and German borders, has helped maintain its economic importance. Dijon continues to be a thriving cultural center as well.

Getting Here and Around

As the administrative capital of Burgundy, Dijon has most everything a city should, including fast train service. Up to 22 TGVs come from Paris daily (€45–€65); once here, the TER network can take you virtually anywhere within the region by rail, with frequent connections to Sens (€31.40), Beaune (€7.80), and Auxerre (€28.60). Right next to the Dijon Ville train station is the Gare Routière from which the regional TRANSCO bus company operates 32 routes that crisscross the Côte d’Or. For wine lovers the No. 44 between Dijon and Beaune (€3) has an itinerary that reads like an oenologist’s wish list; the 12:30 pm bus will get you to the cellar of your choice in time for an early afternoon tasting. Inside the city, Divia (www.divia.fr)—Dijon’s public transit system—provides both regular bus service (€1) and a free minibus shuttle in the historic center.

Visitor Information

Dijon Tourist Office. | 11 rue des Forges | 08–92–70–05–58 €0.34 per min | www.visitdijon.com.

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THE HISTORIC CENTER

EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Cathédrale St-Bénigne.

The chief glory of this comparatively austere cathedral is its atmospheric 11th-century crypt, in which a forest of pillars is surmounted by a rotunda. | Rue du Dr. Maret | Dijon | www.cathedrale-dijon.fr | Crypt €2 | Crypt weekdays 10–6 (5 in winter), Sat. 10–4, Sun. 2–6:30 (5:30 in winter).

Chartreuse de Champmol.

All that remains of this former charterhouse—a half-hour walk from Dijon’s center and now surrounded by a psychiatric hospital—are the exuberant 15th-century church porch and the Puits de Moïse (Well of Moses), one of the greatest examples of late-medieval sculpture. The well was designed by Flemish master Claus Sluter, who also created several other masterpieces during the late 14th and early 15th centuries, including one of the tombs of the dukes of Burgundy. If you closely study Sluter’s six large sculptures, you will discover the Middle Ages becoming the Renaissance right before your eyes. Representing Moses and five other prophets, they are set on a hexagonal base in the center of a basin and remain the most compellingly realistic figures ever crafted by a medieval sculptor. | Centre Hospitalier Spécialisé de la Chartreuse, Avenue Albert 1er | Dijon | Well of Moses €3.50 | Jan.–Mar., Nov. and Dec., 9:30–12:30 and 2–5; Apr.–Oct. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5:30.

Hôtel de Vogüé.

This stately 17th-century Renaissance mansion has a characteristic red, yellow, and green Burgundian tile roof—a tradition whose disputed origins lie either with the Crusades and the adoption of Arabic tiles or with Philip the Bold’s wife, Marguerite of Flanders. | 8 rue de la Chouette | Dijon.

Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne et d’Art Sacré (Museum of Burgundian Traditions and Religious Art).

Housed in the former Cistercian convent, one museum here contains religious art and sculpture; the other has crafts and artifacts from Burgundy—including old storefronts saved from the streets of Dijon that have been reconstituted, in Hollywood moviemaking style, to form an imaginary street. | 17 rue Ste-Anne | Dijon | 03–80–48–80–90 | Free | Wed.–Mon. 9:30–12:30 and 2–6.

Musée Magnin.

In a 17th-century mansion, this museum showcases a private collection of original furnishings and paintings from the 16th to the 19th century. | 4 rue des Bons-Enfants | Dijon | 03–80–67–11–10 | www.musee-magnin.fr | €3.50 (free 1st Sun. of month) | Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–6.

Notre-Dame.

One of the city’s oldest churches, Notre-Dame stands out with spindlelike towers, delicate arches gracing its facade, and 13th-century stained glass. Note the windows in the north transept tracing the lives of five saints, as well as the 11th-century Byzantine linden wood Black Virgin. Local tradition has it that stroking the small owl sculpted on the outside wall of the adjoining chapel with your left hand grants you a wish. | Rue de la Préfecture | Dijon | 06–42–47–55–23 | Daily 9–6:30.

Fodor’s Choice | Palais des Ducs (Ducal Palace).

The elegant, classical exterior of this former palace can best be admired from the half-moon Place de la Libération and the cour d’honneur. The kitchens (circa 1450), with their six huge fireplaces and (for their time) state-of-the-art aeration funnel in the ceiling, catch the eye, as does the 15th-century Salle des Gardes (Guard Room), with its richly carved and colored tombs and late-14th-century altarpieces. The palace now houses one of France’s major art museums, the Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum). The magnificent tombs sculpted for dukes Philip the Bold and his son John the Fearless (note their dramatically moving mourners, hidden in shrouds) are just two highlights of a rich collection of medieval objects and Renaissance furniture gathered here as testimony to Marguerite of Flanders (Philip the Bold’s wife). She brought to Burgundy not only her dowry, namely the rich province of Flanders, but also a host of distinguished artists—including Rogier van der Weyden, Jan van Eyck, and Claus Sluter. Their artistic legacy can be seen here, as well as at several of Burgundy’s other museums and monuments. Among the paintings are works by Italian old masters and French 19th-century artists, such as Théodore Géricault and Gustave Courbet, plus their Impressionist successors, notably Édouard Manet and Claude Monet. | Cours de Flore | Dijon | 03–80–74–52–70 | mba.dijon.fr | Free | May–Oct., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–6; Nov.–Apr., Wed.–Mon. 10–5.

Worth Noting

Chambre des Métiers.

This mansion with Gallo-Roman stelae incorporated into the walls (a remaining section of Dijon’s fifth-century “Castrum” wall) was built in the 19th century. | Rue Philippe-Pot | Dijon.

Musée Archéologique (Antiquities Museum).

This museum, in the former abbey buildings of the church of St-Bénigne, outlines the history of the region through archaeological finds. | 5 rue Dr. Maret | Dijon | 03–80–48–83–70 | Free | Apr.–Oct., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–12:30 and 2–6; Nov.–Mar., Wed. and weekends 9:30–12:30 and 2–6.

Museum Jardin des Sciences de l’Arquebuse (Natural History Museum).

The natural history museum in the Pavillon de L’Arquebuse focuses on current issues such as sustainable development. It is part of an impressive botanical garden, the Jardin de l’Arquebuse, which showcases local and exotic plant life. TIP Strolling among the wide variety of trees and tropical flowers provides a pleasant break from sightseeing. | 1 av. Albert 1er | Dijon | 03–80–48–82–00 museum | Free | Museum Mon. and Wed.–Fri. 9–12:30 and 2–6, weekends 2–6; garden daily 7:30–7 (until 10 in summer).

Palais de Justice.

The meeting place for the old regional Parliament of Burgundy serves as a reminder that Louis XI incorporated the province into France in the late 15th century. | Rue du Palais | Dijon.

St-Michel.

This church, with its chunky Renaissance facade, fast-forwards 300 years from Notre-Dame. | Pl. St-Michel | Dijon | 03–80–63–17–81 | www.saint-michel-dijon.com | Daily 9–6.30.

WHERE TO EAT

As a culinary capital of France, Dijon has many superb restaurants, with three areas popular for casual dining: place Darcy (a square catering to all tastes and budgets), place Émile-Zola, and the old market (Les Halles), along rue Bannelier.

La Dame d’Aquitaine.

MODERN FRENCH | In the handsome stone cellar of a sumptuous 17th-century mansion, La Dame d’Aquitaine has long been a gastronomic mainstay on the Dijonaise scene. The talented owners, Sabine and Laurent Perriguey, prepare dishes like sole meunière with potato pasta in a seafood sauce, or tournedos of beef “Rossini” (that is, topped with warm fois gras) dusted with slivered truffle. TIP The moderate prix-fixe menus are a great value. | Average main: €30 | 23 pl. Bossuet | Dijon | 03–80–30–45–65 | www.ladamedaquitaine.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. No lunch Mon.

Le Bistrot des Halles.

BISTRO | This eatery facing the Les Halles marketplace caters to trendy locals, who are tempted by bistro dishes such as snail risotto or a tempura of prawns and vegetables. Pull up a seat on the sidewalk or dine inside, where glass-topped wine casks serve as tables. A good choice of wines by the glass and prettily presented desserts are added bonuses. | Average main: €17 | 10 rue Bannelier | Dijon | 03–80–35–45–07 | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Le Pré aux Clercs.

FRENCH | This bright, beautiful Napoléon III–style restaurant is the perfect showcase for Chef Jean-Pierre Billoux’s golden touch, which can turn the lowliest farmyard chicken into a palate-pleasing pièce de résistance—the roast volaille de Bresse with truffle purée is a case in point. Most house specialties are inventive, like cod poached in saffron-infused milk, or, to finish, chocolate cannelloni filled with chocolate and hazelnut garnache. The welcome is always convivial, and the wine list features the region’s best—though not necessarily best-known—winemakers. The lunch menu is a startling introduction to modern Burgundian cuisine. | Average main: €40 | 13 pl. de la Libération | Dijon | 03–80–38–05–05 | www.jeanpierrebilloux.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.

Les Oenophiles.

MODERN FRENCH | A collection of superbly restored 17th-century buildings belonging to the Burgundian Company of Wine Tasters forms the backdrop to this pleasant restaurant. It’s lavishly furnished but also quaint (candles sparkle in the evening), and the food is good, too. Vincent Bourdon juggles creativity and tradition to conjure sumptuous culinary surprises, including a pigeon breast accompanied by ravioli that’s been stuffed with confit of pigeon and foie gras. TIP An excellent four-course menu is available for lunch or dinner. | Average main: €32 | 18 rue Ste-Anne | Dijon | 03–80–30–73–52 | www.hotelphilippelebon.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun.

Stéphane Derbord.

FRENCH | The talented Derbord, this city’s rising gastronomic star, ensures that dinner in the restaurant that bears his name is an elegantly refined affair. Tempting prix-fixe menus range from a three-course lunch to a 12-dish dinner extravaganza and might include duck foie gras in a gingerbread crust, followed by smoked sea bass with a cauliflower mousse, and, to cap things off, a chocolate ganache served with black-currant gelée. | Average main: €40 | 10 pl. Wilson | Dijon | 03–80–67–74–64 | www.restaurantstephanederbord.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon., early Jan., last wk in Feb. and 1st 2 wks in Aug.

WHERE TO STAY

Grand Hôtel La Cloche.

HOTEL | At this luxurious, 19th-century grand hotel, ask for one of the large, plush guest rooms overlooking the tiny, tranquil back garden and its reflecting pool. The garden is also the backdrop for the stylish restaurant, Les Jardins de la Cloche. Pros: very comfortable beds; attentive staff; imposing entry hall and smart bar. Cons: bad soundproofing; ostentatious lobby. | Rooms from: €170 | 14 pl. Darcy | Dijon | 03–80–30–12–32 | www.hotel-lacloche.com | 53 rooms, 15 suites | No meals.

Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge.

HOTEL | Colorful, well-appointed rooms display charm and designer chic at the “Hotel of the Red Hat,” a Best Western–branded property where the pleasant surroundings are complemented by the fine fare at William Frachot‘s on-site restaurant. Renowned for classic cuisine laced with inventive counterpoints, the eponymous eatery (closed Sunday and Monday) serves in dishes like plaice with caramelized endive and roasted pigeon in a beetroot and lychee sauce. Pros: restaurant recently awarded a second Michelin star; central location. Cons: breakfast is extra; staff can be gruff. | Rooms from: €120 | 5 rue Michelet | Dijon | 03–80–50–88–88 | www.chapeau-rouge.fr | 28 rooms, 1 suite | No meals.

Le Jacquemart.

HOTEL | In an 18th-century building in Old Dijon surrounded by antiques shops, a steep staircase leads up to high-ceilinged guest rooms of variable comfort, decorated with rustic furniture. Le Jacquemart is very popular, so be sure you book well in advance. Pros: cheerful; good value; nice bathrooms. Cons: far from the train station; no elevator or a/c; some rooms don’t have private bathrooms; might be too basic for some. | Rooms from: €60 | 32 rue Verrerie | Dijon | 03–80–60–09–60 | www.hotel-lejacquemart.fr | 33 rooms | No meals.

Wilson.

HOTEL | This hotel’s “bones” are 17th century, set as it is in a fetching timber-frame post house; inside, the guest rooms are accented with wooden beams and rustic furniture. Ask for one on the inner courtyard, where it’s quieter. Pros: central location; near Stéphane Derbord’s noted restaurant. Cons: some rooms are small and claustrophobic; rooms in front get street noise. | Rooms from: €98 | Pl. Wilson | Dijon | 03–80–66–82–50 | www.wilson-hotel.com | 27 rooms | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Bar Messire.

An older crowd comes to Bar Messire. | 3 rue Jules-Mercier | Dijon | 03–80–30–16–40 | www.bar-lemessire.com.

Bell-Ringing Festival.

During the July Bell-Ringing Festival, St-Bénigne’s bells chime and chime. | Rue du Dr. Maret | Dijon.

Eden Bar.

Catering to a broad clientele, Eden Bar features live sports coverage. | 12 rue des Perrières | Dijon | 03–80–41–48–64 | www.eden-bar-dijon.fr.

Festival International de Musiques et Danses Populaires (Fêtes de la Vigne).

Every two years at the end of August Dijon puts on the Festival International de Musiques et Danses Populaires. The next festival takes place in 2016.|Dijon | www.fetesdelavigne.fr.

Flea Market - La Grande Brocante (Puces dijonnaises).

In the first week of September, Dijon holds a picturesque flea market in the Parc des Expositions de Dijon. | Parc des Expositions | Dijon.

International Gastronomy Fair.

Dijon plays host to the International Gastronomy Fair the first two weeks in November. Each year a different country is invited to show off its produce and cuisine. | Dijon | www.foirededijon.com.

Le Chat Noir.

The popular “Black Cat” disco draws a huge crowd of dedicated groovers. Styles are eclectic and prices are high: €25 for a vodka and orange. Expect to pay a €6–€15 cover charge. | 20 av. Garibaldi | Dijon | 03–80–73–39–57 | www.lechatnoir.fr/dijon.

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Clos de Vougeot | Nuits-St-Georges | Beaune | Château de Sully | Autun | Cluny

Burgundy has given its name to one of the world’s great wines. Although many people will allow a preference for Bordeaux, others for Alsace, Loire, or Rhône wines, some of the leading French gourmets insist that the precious red nectars of Burgundy have no rivals, and treat them with reverence. So, for some travelers a trip to Burgundy’s Wine Country takes on the feel of a spiritual pilgrimage. East of the mountainous Parc du Morvan, the low hills and woodland gradually open up, and vineyards, clothing the contour of the land in orderly beauty, appear on all sides. Their steeply banked hills stand in contrast to the region’s characteristic gentle slopes. Burgundy’s most famous vineyards run south from Dijon through Beaune to Mâcon along what has become known as the Côte d’Or. You can go from vineyard to vineyard tasting the various samples—both the powerfully tannic young reds and the mellower older ones. Purists will remind you that you’re not supposed to actually drink what is offered but rather take a sip, then spit it into the little buckets discreetly provided. But who wants to be a purist?

While the “d’Or” in Côte d’Or doesn’t mean “gold” (it’s an abbreviation of orient, or east), the area does represent a golden opportunity for wine lovers as it branches out over the countryside in four great vineyard-côtes (slopes or hillsides). The northernmost, the Côte de Nuits, sometimes called the “Champs-Élysées of Burgundy,” is the land of the unparalleled grand-cru reds from the Pinot Noir grape. The Côte de Beaune, just to the south, is known for both full-bodied reds and some of the best dry whites in the world. Even farther south is the Côte Chalonnaise. Although not as famous, it produces bottle after bottle of Chardonnay almost as rich as its northern neighbors. Finally, the Côte Mâconnaise, the largest of the four, brings its own quality whites to the market. There are hundreds of vintners in this region, many of them producing top wines from surprisingly small parcels of land. To connect these dots, consult the regional tourist offices for full information about noted wine routes. The 74-km (50-mile) Route des Grands Crus ranges from Dijon to Beaune and Santenay. You can extend this route southward by the Route Touristique des Grands Vins, which travels some 98 km (60 miles) in and around Chalon-sur-Saône. Coming from the north, you can tour the areas around Auxerre and Chablis on the Route des Vignobles de l’Yonne. Wherever you go in this killer countryside, you’ll find that small towns with big wine names draw many travelers to their cellars.

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CLOS DE VOUGEOT

16 km (10 miles) south of Dijon.

The reason to come to Vougeot is to see its grange viticole (wine-making barn) surrounded by its famous vineyard—a symbolic spot for all Burgundy aficionados.

Getting Here

TRANSCO’s No. 44 bus connects Dijon to Vougeot (40 mins, €1.50); from there it’s about a 10-minute walk from the town center to the château.

EXPLORING

Abbaye de Cîteaux.

The austere Cistercian order was founded at this abbey near Clos de Vougeot at St-Nicolas-lès-Cîteaux in 1098 by Robert de Molesmes, and the complex has housed monks ever since. Destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries, it is, understandably, a mix of styles and epochs: 13th-century cloisters, a 16th-century library, and a large, imposing 18th-century main building form an eclectic ensemble. From D996, follow signs pointing the way along a short country road that breaks off from the road to Château de Gilly, a four-star hotel. Call ahead for a guided tour. | Off D996 | Vougeot | 03–80–61–32–58 | www.citeaux.abbaye.com | Tour €7.50 | Tours: July and Aug., Tues.–Sat. at 10:30, 11:30, 2, 3, 4 and 5, Sun. 12:15, 1, 2, 3, 3:15, 4, 4:30, and 5; May, June, and Sept., Wed.–Sat. at 10:30, 11:30, 2:30, 3:30, and 4:30, Sun. 12:15, 1:30, 2:30, 3:30, and 4:30.

Fodor’s Choice | Château du Clos de Vougeot.

Although it wasn’t completed until the Renaissance, construction on Château du Clos de Vougeot was actually begun in the 12th century by Cistercian monks from neighboring Cîteaux who needed wine for Mass and wanted to make a diplomatic offering. It’s best known as the seat of Burgundy’s elite company of wine lovers, the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, who gather here in November at the start of an annual three-day festival, Les Trois Glorieuses. You can admire the château’s cellars, where ceremonies are held, and ogle the huge 13th-century grape presses, marvels of medieval engineering. There are regular photo exhibitions and concerts and an accompanied, 45-minute tour in English on request. | 03–80–62–86–09 | www.closdevougeot.fr | €5 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9–6:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 9–11:30 and 2–5:30 (5 on Sat.).

WHERE TO STAY

Château de Gilly.

HOTEL | Considered by some to be an obligatory stop on their tour of Burgundy’s vineyards, this château retains glorious vestiges of bygone days: painted ceilings, a gigantic vaulted crypt-cellar (now the dining room), suits of armor, and (some) guest rooms with magnificent beamed ceilings and lovely views. The restaurant’s menu includes classic dishes such as fillet of Charolais beef with a creamy mushroom sauce, and comforting old-fashioned desserts such as crêpes Suzette and Grand Marnier soufflé. After decades on a roll, however, Le Gilly has become too popular for its own good and the on-site conference center doesn’t help things. Pros: beautiful location; friendly staff. Cons: pricey; heavily touristed; bathrooms could use a face-lift. | Rooms from: €175 | Gilly-lès-Cîteaux | Vougeot | 03–80–62–89–98 | www.grandesetapes.fr | 37 rooms, 11 suites | No meals.

NUITS-ST-GEORGES

21 km (13 miles) south of Dijon, 5 km (3 miles) south of Clos de Vougeot.

Wine has been made in Nuits-St-Georges since Roman times; its “dry, tonic, and generous qualities” were recommended to Louis XIV for medicinal use. But this is also the heart of currant country, where crops yield the wonderfully delicious ingredient known as cassis (the signature flavor in the famous Kir cocktail).

Getting Here

TRANSCO’s No. 44 bus makes the trip from Dijon (47 mins, €1.50) and Beaune (26 mins, €1.50) to Nuits-St-Georges daily. TER train service is also available.

EXPLORING

Cassissium.

Inside the Cassissium’s sparkling glass-and-steel building, the world of cassis is explored through films and interactive displays. A 90-minute tour of Védrenne’s liqueur production ends (of course!) with a cassis tasting. | 8 Passage Montgolfier | 03–80–62–49–70 | www.cassissium.fr | €8.50 | Apr.–mid-July and Sept.–mid-Nov., daily 10–1 and 2–7; mid-July–Aug. 10–7; mid-Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Sat. 10:30–1 and 2–5 (last tour begins 1 hr 45 min before closing).

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

La Cabotte.

BISTRO | If you’re tired of hearty Burgundian classics, just follow savvy locals to this stylish little restaurant on the main street. Its creative market-driven menus feature dishes such as hare confit served with foie gras-speckled spaghetti, and seared scallops coupled with creamy cauliflower. An impressive wine list includes a fine selection of Burgundy and Rhône producers. TIP The three-course Menu Gourmand (€28.50) is excellent value. | Average main: €20 | 24 Grand Rue | 03–80–61–20–77 | www.restaurantlacabotte.fr | Closed Sun. and Mon.

La Toute Petite Auberge.

BISTRO | Vosne-Romanée, the greatest wine village on the côte, also entices with one of the most charming restaurants in Burgundy. The menu changes four times a year and is replete with succulent local dishes (picture a generous mound of frogs legs, farm-reared capon, andouillette from Chablis, coq au vin, and crème brûlée). Everything is excellent and prices are more than reasonable. As you would expect, the wine list is top-notch. | Average main: €21 | On RD974, 2 km (1 mile) north of Nuits-St-Georges, Vosne-Romanée | 03–80–61–02–03 | www.latoutepetiteauberge.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Tues. and Wed.

Château de la Berchère.

HOTEL | Originally a medieval fortification and a battlefield during the Franco-Prussian wars, this majestic château offers elegant rooms that are simply but tastefully furnished. Some, especially No. 29, with its massive four-poster bed and marble fireplace, are in a much grander vein. The grounds are impeccable, and even include a private runway. Pros: good value; steeped in French history. Cons: no air-conditioning; no restaurant; bathrooms are basic, but some are equipped with sauna and whirlpool. | Rooms from: €80 | 4 km (2½ miles) west of Nuits-St-Georges, Boncourt-le-Bois | 03–80–61–01–40 | www.hotelchateauberchere.com | 22 rooms | Closed Dec.–Feb. | No meals.

Domaine Comtesse Michel de Loisy.

B&B/INN | People who are serious about their wine flock here to stay in the eclectic guest rooms—memorably tempered with old-fashioned charm and furnished with fine antiques, tapestries, chintz-covered walls, and Oriental carpets. All is ably administered by Françoise de Loisy Loquin, a well-known oenologist and local historian. Four of the five rooms have a view of the flower-filled courtyard or the magnificent winter garden. Pros: cultured hostess; large, comfortable rooms; breakfast included. Cons: no elevator; no air-conditioning in some rooms. | Rooms from: €100 | 28 rue du Général-de-Gaulle, Rte. de Beaune | 03–80–61–02–72 | www.domainedeloisy.com | 3 rooms, 2 suites | Closed late Dec.–early Jan. | Breakfast.

Le Richebourg.

HOTEL | Just north of town, Le Richebourg looks so ordinary from the outside that you wouldn’t give it a second glance as you drive by on the busy thoroughfare through Vosne-Romanée, but the good-sized guest rooms inside are super-stylish; some come with a terrace facing the garden, and special “Cocoon” rooms have their own saunas. A swanky spa and a garden-view restaurant serving modern Burgundy-based cuisine (closed Sunday and Monday) complete the picture. Pros: centrally located for visiting area vineyards. Cons: rooms on road side can be noisy. | Rooms from: €185 | 2 km (1 mile) north of Nuits-St-Georges, Ruelle du Pont | Vosne-Romanée | 03–80–61–59–59 | www.hotel-lerichebourg.com | 20 rooms, 4 suites | No meals.

BEAUNE

19 km (12 miles) south of Nuits-St-Georges; 40 km (25 miles) south of Dijon; 315 km (197 miles) southeast of Paris.

Beaune is sometimes considered the wine capital of Burgundy because it is at the heart of the region’s vineyards, with the Côte de Nuits to the north and the Côte de Beaune to the south. It’s also a popular spot for festivals, with top draws including the International Festival of Baroque Music in July, Jazz à Beaune in September, and the wine-themed Les Trois Glorieuses in November. That combination makes Beaune one of Burgundy’s most visited communities. Despite the hordes, however, it remains a very attractive provincial town, teeming with art aboveground and wine barrels down below.

Getting Here

Though only two direct TGVs leave Paris’s Gare de Lyon daily for Beaune (at 6:53 am and 4:53 pm), there are 22 trains in all, with changes at Dijon. Travel times vary from two hours, 13 minutes to four hours, depending on transfers; and fares range from €48.70 on the slower TER trains to €93.40 on the TGV. Beaune is 20 minutes from Dijon (€7.80) and gets plenty of train traffic from the through line to Lyon (€26.50). For those heading farther north, trains to Auxerre (€32.90), via Laroche Migennes, and a direct service to Sens (€35.80) are available. TRANSCO buses, departing from the SNCF station, run to Dijon via Nuits-St-Georges (No. 44, the wine-lovers line), and to Saulieu (the No. 72).

Visitor Information

Beaune Tourist Office. | Porte Marie de Bourgogne,6 bd. Perpreuil | 03–80–26–21–30 | www.ot-beaune.fr.

EXPLORING

Collégiale Notre-Dame.

A series of tapestries relating the life of the Virgin hangs in Beaune’s main church, the 12th-century Romanesque Collégiale Notre-Dame. They are on public display from Easter to mid-November. | Pl. du General Leclerc, just off Av. de la République | 03–80–24–77–95 | Free; guided tour for tapestries €3 | Oct.–May., Mon.–Sat. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5, Sun. 1–5; June–Sept., Mon.–Sat. 9:30–12:30 and 2–7, Sun. 1–7.

Hospices de Beaune (Hôtel-Dieu).

With its steep, gabled roof colorfully tiled in intricate patterns, the famed Hospices de Beaune is this city’s top attraction—and one of Burgundy’s most iconic sights. Better known to some as the Hôtel-Dieu, it was founded in 1443 as a hospital to provide free care for men who had fought in the Hundred Years’ War. The interior looks medieval but was repainted by 19th-century restorer Viollet-le-Duc and centers on the grand salle, more than 160 feet long, with the original furniture, a great wooden roof, and the super-picturesque cour d’honneur. The Hospices carried on its medical activities until 1971—its nurses still wearing their habit-like uniforms—and the hospital’s history is retraced in the museum, whose wide-ranging collections contain some odd medical instruments from the 15th century. You can also see a collection of tapestries that belonged to the repentant founder of the Hospices, ducal chancellor Nicolas Rolin, who hoped charity would relieve him of his sins—one of which was collecting wives. Outstanding are both the tapestry he had made for Madame Rolin III, with its repeated motif of “my only star,” and one relating the legend of St. Eloi and his miraculous restoration of a horse’s leg.

But the showstopper at the Hôtel-Dieu is Rogier Van der Weyden’s stirring, gigantic 15th-century masterpiece The Last Judgment, commissioned for the hospital by Rolin. The intense colors and mind-tripping imagery were meant to scare the illiterate patients into religious submission. Notice the touch of misogyny; more women are going to hell than to heaven, while Christ, the judge, remains completely unmoved. Note that the Hospices own around 61 hectares (150 acres) of the region’s finest vineyards, much of it classified as Grand and Premier Cru. | Pl. de la Halle, Rue de l’Hôtel-Dieu, across from tourist office | 03–80–24–45–00 | www.hospices-de-beaune.com | €7 | Late Mar.–late Nov., daily 9–6:30; late Nov.–late Mar., daily 9–11:30 and 2–5:30.

Marché aux Vins (Wine Market).

The liquid highlight of many Burgundian vacations is a visit to the Marché aux Vins, where you can sample a tongue-tingling, mind-spinning array of regional wines in an atmospheric setting made up of barrel-strewn cellars and vaulted passages. Opt for seven wines (with a tastevin as a souvenir) or 10 wines (with a free glass), no need to reserve. Other Beaune tasting houses include Cordelier on the Rue de l’Hôtel-Dieu and the Caves Patriarche on the Rue du Collège. | 2 rue Nicolas-Rolin | 03–80–25–08–20 | www.marcheauxvins.com | €11–€15 | Apr.–Oct., daily 10–6 and 2–5:30; Nov.–Mar., daily 10–noon and 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT

L’Écusson.

FRENCH | Don’t be put off by its unprepossessing exterior: this friendly, oak-beamed restaurant offers good-value prix-fixe menus. Chef-owner Thomas Campagnon’s sure-footed culinary mastery is evident in dishes like duck foie gras cooked three ways or pigeon breast with poached pear and crushed sweet potato. | Average main: €36 | 2 rue du Lieutenant-Dupuis | 03–80–24–03–82 | www.ecusson.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Wed., Sun., and Feb.

Fodor’s Choice | Le P’tit Paradis.

FRENCH | It’s well worth squeezing into this tiny corner of paradise to experience the modern bistro fare of Beaune’s most capable culinary couple. Charolais beef with an Époisses cream sauce and a Morteau sausage tart with chicory and blue cheese grace a menu fit for the angels. | Average main: €20 | 2 rue du Paradis | 03–80–24–91–00 | www.restaurantleptitparadis.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon., Aug., Dec., and Jan.

Loiseau des Vignes.

FRENCH FUSION | Where else would you expect one of Burgundy’s leading culinary establishments to open a wine bar? A massive range of 70 wines, all available by the glass, is the perfect accompaniment to a selection of Bernard Loiseau’s famous regional dishes (along with some old-fashioned essentials). Lunch and dinner menus include such delights as œufs meurette Bernard Loiseau (poached eggs in red-wine sauce) and a ballotine of Bresse chicken. Indulge in the wine-tasting menu and sample five of Burgundy’s best, or go by the glass. | Average main: €60 | 31 rue Maufoux | 03–80–24–12–06 | www.bernard-loiseau.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon., Sun., and Feb.

WHERE TO STAY

Hostellerie de Levernois.

B&B/INN | This idyllic Relais & Châteaux property—a gracious country manor, smartly run by Jean-Louis and Susanne Bottigliero—enchants on many levels, from its unique fleur-de-lys topiary to its superb restaurant to its wood-beam cathedral guest rooms. The lodgings in a modern annex overlooking the landscaped garden are the most up-to-date. Cuisine, under chef Philippe Augé, is of the highest standard and has earned the restaurant a Michelin star. Meals are occasions to be savored; prix-fixe menus may include scallops served with pumpkin and seaweed butter, or suckling pig cooked in a truffle crust. A bistro offering more reasonably priced menus is open daily for lunch, and on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday evenings for dinner. Pros: lovely, spacious rooms; personable staff; great food. Cons: pricey; no elevator; main restaurant only open for lunch on Sunday. | Rooms from: €188 | Rue du Golf, 3 km (2 miles) east of Beaune | Levernois | 03–80–24–73–58 | www.levernois.com | 20 rooms, 6 suites | Closed Feb.–mid-Mar. | No meals.

Hôtel Central.

HOTEL | This well-run establishment 100 yards from the Hospices de Beaune lives up to its name and offers good, clean guest rooms at a gentle price. The oak-beamed restaurant (closed Tuesday, Wednesday, and from December to late January) is cozy—some might say cramped—and the consistently good cuisine is popular with locals, who come to enjoy œufs en meurette and coq au vin. Service is efficient, if a little hurried. Pros: central location; comfortable rooms. Cons: not all rooms have private baths; street-facing rooms can be noisy. | Rooms from: €89 | 2 rue Victor-Millot | 03–80–24–77–24 | www.hotelcentral-beaune.com | 20 rooms, 10 with bath | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Le Cep.

HOTEL | This stylish ensemble of buildings spanning the 14th to the 16th centuries oozes history from every arcade of its Renaissance courtyard, and, even better, all guest rooms—named for different Burgundy wines—have been luxuriously modernized and decorated with individual panache; some have wood beams, others canopied or four-poster beds. Those on the top story offer views over Beaune’s famed multicolor tile roofs. Breakfast (additional charge) is served in a vaulted cellar; there’s no hotel restaurant as such, but the excellent Floiseau des Vignes is right next door. Pros: luxurious rooms; historical location; friendly staff. Cons: thin walls; pricey breakfast. | Rooms from: €191 | 27 rue Jean François Maufoux | 03–80–22–35–48 | www.hotel-cep-beaune.com | 35 rooms, 18 suites, 8 apartments | No meals.

La Cueillette.

HOTEL | Sitting pretty in the middle of manicured rows of Meursault vines, the Château de Citeaux provides a stately setting for this hotel and spa. The grand Napoléon III ballroom, with its monumental fireplace, creaky parquet floors, and ostentatiously decorated walls and ceiling, is the backdrop for Pierre Creuzet’s top-notch cuisine. In the opposite wing, modern guest rooms with a minimalist decor are easier on the eye; those on the first floor have private terraces with stunning views over the vineyards or village. After touring some world-class wine producers, take a plunge in the property’s indoor pool, or revive body and soul in the hammam. For full-on pampering, book a Fruititherapy treatment at the spa—the “Grand Cru Monopoly” (€220 for two hours) includes a body scrub with blackcurrant and grape seeds, a fruit pulp wrap, and a seasonal fruit face mask. Pros: excellent spa; vineyard setting. Cons: few rooms have bathtubs; a car is essential. | Rooms from: €237 | Rue de Cîteaux, 9 km (5.5 miles) southwest of Beaune | Meursault | 03–80–20–62–80 | www.lacueillette.com | 17 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.

THE ARTS

Beaune Tourist Office.

For festival information, contact Beaune’s Office de Tourisme. | 6 bd. Perpreuil | 03–80–26–21–30 | www.ot-beaune.fr.

International Festival of Baroque Opera.

In July Beaune celebrates its annual, month-long International Festival of Baroque Opera, which draws big stars of the music world. It’s possible to reserve online. | 03–80–22–97–20 | www.festivalbeaune.com.

Internatonal Thriller Film Festival.

Beaune plays host to the Internatonal Thriller Film Festival at the end of March and early April. | 03–80–26–21–30 tourist office | www.beaunefestivalpolicier.com.

Jazz à Beaune.

International names and up-and-coming artists take to the stage in September during the city’s jazz festival. | 09–64–38–82–97 | www.jazzabeaune.fr.

Les Trois Glorieuses.

Beaune holds its famous wine festival—Les Trois Glorieuses—on the third weekend in November. It starts with a public tasting on Saturday, continues with an auction on Sunday, and closes with a tipsy lunch for the wine elite at Château de Meursault on Monday.

CHÂTEAU DE SULLY

16 km (10 miles) northeast of Autun; 75 km (47 miles) southwest of Dijon.

This magnificent château is landmarked by four lantern-top corner towers that loom over a romantic moat filled with the waters of the River Drée. Birthplace of Maurice de MacMahon, the Duc de Magenta, Château de Sully is still home to the present Duchesse de Magenta and her family.

Getting Here

Take a local TER train to Autun, and then hop a bus for the 50-minute ride to Château de Sully (see www.destineo.fr for times and prices).

EXPLORING

Château de Sully.

“The Fontainebleau of Burgundy” was how Madame de Sévigné described this turreted Renaissance château with its Italianate inner court. Originally constructed by the de Rabutin family and once owned by Gaspard de Saulx-Tavannes—an instigator of the 1572 St. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre, during which mobs attacked Huguenots in and around Paris—the château was partly reconstructed in elegant Régence style in the 18th century. Maurice de MacMahon, Napoloen III’s field marshal, was born here in 1808; he went on to serve as the president of France’s Third Republic from 1873 to 1879. Guided tours in English are available by reservation. | 35 km (19 miles) west of Beaune | 03–85–82–09–86 | www.chateaudesully.com | Tours €8.40; gardens only €4.10 | Apr.–Nov., tours at 10:30, 11:30, 1:30, 2:30, 3:30, 4:30 | Closed 1 hr earlier on Sat.

AUTUN

48 km (30 miles) west of Beaune.

One of the most richly endowed villes d’art in Burgundy, Autun is a great draw for fans of both Gallo-Roman and Romanesque art. The name derives from Augustodonum—city of Augustus—and it was Augustus Caesar who called Autun “the sister and rival of Rome itself.” You can still see traces of the Roman occupation, dating from an era when this place was much larger and more important than it is now, in its well-preserved archways (Porte St-André and Porte d’Arroux) and Théâtre Romain (once the largest arena in Gaul). Parts of the Roman walls surrounding the town also remain. In addition to ancient ruins, Autun is home to a magnificent medieval cathedral and one of the region’s best museums—Musée Rolin.

Getting Here

Some TGVs stop at Le Creusot, between Chalon and Autun—from here, you can catch a bus for the 45-minute ride to Autun. Local train lines also link Autun to Auxerre and Dijon.

Visitor Information

Autun Tourist Office. | 13 rue Général Demetz | 03–85–86–80–38 | www.autun-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale St-Lazare.

Autun’s principal monument is the Cathédrale St-Lazare, a Gothic cathedral in Classical clothing. It was built between 1120 and 1146 to house the relics of St. Lazarus; the main tower, spire, and upper reaches of the chancel were added in the late 15th century. Lazarus’s tricolor tomb was dismantled in 1766 by canons (vestiges of the exquisite workmanship can be seen in the neighboring Musée Rolin); and those same gentlemen did their best to transform the Romanesque-Gothic cathedral into a Classical temple, adding pilasters and other ornaments willy-nilly. Fortunately, the lacy Flamboyant Gothic organ tribune and some of the best Romanesque stonework, including the inspired nave capitals and the tympanum above the main door, emerged unscathed. Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres’s painting The Martyrdom of St. Symphorien has been relegated to the dingy north aisle of the nave, partly masked by the organ. The Last Judgment carved in stone above the main door was plastered over in the 18th century, which preserved not only the stylized Christ and elongated apostles but also the inscription “Gislebertus hoc fecit” (Gislebertus did this). Christ’s head, which had disappeared, was found by a local canon shortly after World War II. Make sure to visit the cathedral’s Salle Capitulaire, which houses Gislebertus’s original capitals, distinguished by their relief carvings. TIP The cathedral provides a stunning setting for Musique en Morvan, a festival of choral music in late July. | Pl. St-Louis | 03–85–52–12–37 | www.art-roman.net/autun/autun.htm | Salle Capitulaire | Cathedral daily 8–7.

Musée Rolin.

Built by Chancellor Nicolas Rolin, an important Burgundian administrator and famous art patron (he’s immortalized in one of the Louvre’s greatest paintings, Jan van Eyck’s Madonna and the Chancellor Rolin), this museum across from the cathedral is noteworthy for its early Flemish paintings and sculpture. Among them is the magisterial Nativity painted by the Maître de Moulins in the 15th century, but the collection’s star is a Gislebertus masterpiece, the Temptation of Eve, which originally topped one of the side doors of the cathedral. Try to imagine the missing elements of the scene: Adam on the left and the devil on the right. | 5 rue des Bancs | 03–85–52–09–76 | €5.20 | Apr.–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–noon and 1:30–6; Oct.–mid-Dec. and Mar., Mon., Wed.–Sat. 10–noon and 2–5, Sun. 2:30–5.

FAMILY | Théâtre Romain.

The ancient theater, sitting at the edge of Autun on the road to Chalon-sur-Saône, makes an atmospheric picnic spot. Select lunch fixings in town; then settle in on the stepped seats, where as many as 15,000 Gallo-Roman spectators perched two millennia ago. On Friday and Saturday nights in summer, a themed performance—the only one of its kind—is put on by locals wearing period costumes. The peak of a Gallo-Roman pyramid can be seen in the foreground. Elsewhere on the outskirts of town are the remains of a Roman Temple of Janus.

WHERE TO STAY

Hostellerie du Vieux Moulin.

B&B/INN | This converted mill in a tree-lined garden exudes rustic charm; its spacious guest rooms—some with views of the river, others looking out over the countryside—are cozy and clean, though rather dull decor-wise. A stone fireplace, wooden beams, and well-chosen antiques give the restaurant a country feel, which carries over into the kitchen. Expect refined, innovative dishes that are inspired by traditional Burgundian fare. lPastries are the chef’s specialty, so don’t forget dessert. Pros: calm surroundings; restaurant serves meals in the garden in warmer months. Cons: 15-minute walk from town center; no elevator. | Rooms from: €75 | Porte d’Arroux, Rte. de Saulieu | 03–85–52–10–90 | 16 rooms | Closed Dec.–Feb. | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Les Ursulines.

HOTEL | Placed above the Roman ramparts of the old city, this gorgeous 17th-century convent has been transformed into a delightful hotel, complete with spacious lodgings, an antiques-adorned restaurant, and a splendid, geometric French-style garden. Guest rooms, which are gradually being redecorated, are currently a mixed bag; some have folkloric headboards, wood-beam accents, and subtle pops of color, but others are much less alluring. Ask for one with views of the surrounding Morvan hills. The hotel restaurant successfully delivers ambitious nouvelle dishes, along with old favorites such as snail-filled pastry and Bresse chicken. Pros: historic setting; quiet yet central location. Cons: hodgepodge decor; limited elevator access. | Rooms from: €108 | 14 rue de Rivault | 03–85–86–58–58 | www.hotelursulines.fr | 33 rooms, 5 suites | No meals.

CLUNY

77 km (46 miles) southeast of Autun.

The village of Cluny is legendary for its medieval abbey, once the center of a vast Christian empire. Although most of the complex was destroyed in the French Revolution, one soaring transept of this church remains standing, today one of the most magnificent sights of Romanesque architecture.

Getting Here

Six TGVs make the journey from Paris’s Gare de Lyon daily (€84.20), though all require a 30-minute bus liaison from Mâcon. Les Rapides de Bourgogne has regular buses that link Cluny to Chalon-sur-Saône, where you can connect to Autun and Le Creusot TGV railway stations. Driving to Cluny is a delight, as the surrounding countryside of the Mâconnais is among the most beautiful of France, with rolling fields and picturesque villages.

Visitor Information

Cluny Tourist Office. | 6 rue Mercière | 03–85–59–05–34 | www.cluny-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Ancienne Abbaye.

Founded in the 10th century, the Ancienne Abbaye was the largest church in Europe until the 16th century, when Michelangelo built St. Peter’s in Rome. Art historians have written themselves into knots tracing the fundamental influence of its architecture in the development of early Gothic style. Cluny’s medieval abbots were as powerful as popes; in 1098 Pope Urban II (himself a Cluniac) assured the head of his old abbey that Cluny was the “light of the world.” That assertion, of dubious religious validity, has not stood the test of time—after the Revolution the abbey was sold as national property and much of it used as a stone quarry. Today Cluny stands in ruins, a reminder of the vanity of human grandeur. What remains, however, suggests the size and gorgeous glory of the abbey at its zenith, and piecing it back together in your mind is part of the attraction.

In order to get a clear sense of what you’re looking at, start at the Porte d’Honneur, the entrance to the abbey from the village, whose classical architecture is reflected in the pilasters and Corinthian columns of the Clocher de l’Eau-Bénite (a majestic bell tower), crowning the only remaining part of the abbey church, the south transept. Between the two is the reconstructed monumental staircase, which led to the portal of the abbey church, and the excavated column bases of the vast narthex. The entire nave is gone. On one side of the transept is a national horse-breeding center (haras) founded in 1806 by Napoléon and constructed with materials from the destroyed abbey; on the other is an elegant pavilion built as new monks’ lodgings in the 18th century. The gardens in front of it once contained an ancient lime tree (destroyed by a 1982 storm) named after Abélard, the controversial philosopher who sought shelter here in 1142. Off to the right is the 13th-century farinier (flour store), with its fine oak-and-chestnut roof and collection of exquisite Romanesque capitals from the vanished choir. The Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie, in the Palais Jean de Bourbon, contains Europe’s foremost Romanesque lapidary museum. Vestiges of both the abbey and the village constructed around it are conserved here, as well as part of the Bibliothèque des Moines (Monks’ Library). | Pl. de l’abbaye | 03–85–59–15–93 Abbaye, 03–85–59–89–99 Palais de Bourbon | www.monuments-nationaux.fr | €9.50 for both sites, ticket valid for 2 days | Jan.–Mar. and Oct.–Dec., daily 9:30–5; Apr.–June and Sept., daily 9:30–6; July and Aug., 9:30–7.

Hôtel des Monnaies (Abbey Mint).

The village of Cluny was built to serve the abbey’s more practical needs, and several fine Romanesque houses around the Rue d’Avril and the Rue de la République—including the so-called Hôtel des Monnaies—are prime examples of the period’s different architectural styles. | 6 rue d’Avril | 03–85–59–05–56.

Tour des Fromages.

Parts of the town ramparts, the much-restored 11th-century defensive Tour des Fromages (now home to the tourist office), and several noteworthy medieval churches also remain. | 6 rue Mercière | 03–85–59–05–34 tourist office | €2; joint ticket for all Cluny museums €9.50 | Nov.–Mar., Mon.–Sat. 9:30–12:30 and 2:30–5; Apr., Mon.–Sat. 9:30–12:30 and 2:30–6:30; May, June, and Sept., daily 9:30–12:30 and 2:30–6:30; July and Aug., daily 9:30–6:30.

WHERE TO STAY

Hôtel de Bourgogne.

HOTEL | Time-burnished if not time-stained, this old-fashioned hotel was built in 1817, where parts of the abbey once stood. It offers rooms that are for the most part spacious and well appointed with eclectic, modern furnishings, as well as a small garden. The restaurant is done with a sober pink palette and serves comfort cuisine, such as sandre cuit à la plancha (grilled pike perch); it is closed Tuesday and Wednesday, and the first week of July. Pros: historic setting; good value; helpful staff; service comes with a no-holds-barred smile. Cons: no elevator; breakfast is extra but copious. | Rooms from: €133 | Pl. de l’Abbaye | 03–85–59–00–58 | www.hotel-cluny.com | 13 rooms, 3 suites | Closed Dec. and Jan., and Tues. and Wed. in Feb. | No meals.

THE ARTS

Grandes Heures de Cluny.

The ruined abbey of Cluny forms the backdrop of the Grandes Heures de Cluny, a classical music festival held late July to mid-August. Free Burgundy wine-tastings are offered after concerts. | Hotel des Monnaies,6 rue d’Avril | 03–85–59–23–83 for details.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Lyon and the Alps

Lyon

Beaujolais

The Rhône Valley

Grenoble and the Alps

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner

Updated by Jennifer Ditsler-Ladonne

Lyon and the Alps are as alike as chocolate and broccoli. Lyon is fast, congested, and saturated with culture. In the bustling city—often called the gateway to the Alps—it’s hard to believe that those pristine peaks are only an hour’s train ride away. Likewise, when you’re in a small Alpine village you could almost forget France has any large cities at all, because everything you imagined about the Alps—soaring snowcaps, jagged ridges, refreshing lakes—is true. Culturally, Lyon and the Alps could well be on different continents but geographically they make for a great vacation combo.

Cheek by jowl, they share a patch of earth sculpted by the noble Rhône as it courses down from Switzerland, flowing out of Lake Geneva. And this soil, or as the French call it, the terroir, provides many tasty treasures, beginning with the region’s saucy Beaujolais wines. Glinting purple against red-checked linens in a Lyonnais bouchon (tavern), pink-cheeked Beaujolais vintages flatter every item listed on those famous blackboard menus: a fat boudin noir bursting from its casing, a tangle of country greens in tangy mustard vinaigrette, or a taste of crackling roast chicken.

If you are what you eat, then Lyon itself is real and hearty, as straightforward and unabashedly simple as a poulet de Bresse. Yet the refinements of superlative opera, theater, and classical music also happily thrive in Lyon’s gently patinated urban milieu, one strangely reminiscent of 1930s Paris—lace curtains in painted-over storefronts, elegant bourgeois town houses, deep-shaded parks, and low-slung bridges lacing back and forth over the broad, lazy Saône and Rhône rivers.

When you’ve had your fill of this, pack a picnic of victuals to tide you over and head for the hills—the Alps, to be exact. Here is a land of green-velvet slopes and icy mists, ranging from the modern urban hub of Grenoble and the crystalline lake of Annecy to the state-of-the-art ski resorts of Chamonix and Megève. Let your grand finale be Mont Blanc: at 15,700 feet, it’s Western Europe’s highest peak.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Vieux Lyon: Lyon’s Old Town traboules, or passageways, and 16th-century courtyards reveal a hidden trove of Renaissance architecture.

Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!: The third Thursday of November is a party like no other in France, when celebrations in honor of the new Beaujolais wine go around the clock.

Mont Blanc: Whether you brave the vertiginous slopes at Chamonix or enjoy the gentler skiing of Megève, you’ll be singing “Ain’t No Mountain High Enough” once you see Mont Blanc, France’s tallest peak.

Grenoble’s market day: Sunday morning offers a chance to walk miles through half a dozen different markets selling everything from herbs to haberdashery.

Epic epicureanism: There is no possible way to cite Lyon-Rhône Alps without mentioning Paul Bocuse, Mathieu Viannay, and the many other resident superstar chefs.

GETTING ORIENTED

Lyon is France’s natural hub, where the rivers Rhône and Saône meet and the mountainous wilderness of the Massif Central leans toward the lofty Alps. Lyon is a magnet for the surrounding region, including the vineyards of Beaujolais. South of Lyon is the quaint Rhône Valley. Along the southeastern border of France rises a mighty barrier of mountains that provides some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe: the French Alps, soaring to their climax in Western Europe’s highest peak, Mont Blanc.

WHAT’S WHERE

Lyon. This city is most famous for the Vieux Lyon district, with its Renaissance traboules (passageways), and the bustling Presqu’île, a peninsula between the two rivers. Lyon’s historic industrial power has generated ample cultural resources and the energy to create first-rate music, cinema, theater, opera, dance, and cuisine.

Beaujolais. Follow the Saône River north from Lyon to the area around Villefranche and you will find the vineyards of Beaujolais, a moving pilgrimage for any wine lover. Diminutive villages with poetic names such as St-Amour, Fleurie, and Juliénas are surrounded by rolling hillsides bristling with grapevines. To the east lies Bourg-en-Bresse, famed for its church and its chickens.

The Rhône Valley. Like predestined lovers, the Rhône joins the Saône to form a fluvial force rolling south to the Mediterranean. Their bounty includes hundreds of steep vineyards and small-town winemakers tempting you with samples. The ancient Roman ruins of Vienne and the Romanesque relics of Valence reflect the Rhône’s importance as an early trade route.

Grenoble and the Alps. Grenoble, in the Dauphiné, is the gateway to the Alps at the nexus of rivers and highways connecting Marseille, Valence, Lyon, Geneva, and Turin. Literati will love its Stendahl sites and art-filled musée. To the east, rustic towns announce the Alps, none more idyllic than Annecy, thanks to its cerulean blue lake, covered lanes, and quiet canals. The region’s natural Alpine splendors are showcased at Chamonix and Megève, ski resorts that buzz with life from December to April.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

Lyon and the Rhône-Alpes are so diverse in altitude and climate that the weather will depend mostly on where you are, when you’re there, and which way the wind blows. Freezing gales have been known to turn Lyon’s late September dance festival into a winter carnival, with icy blasts from the Massif Central sweeping down the Saône. As a rule, however, Lyon may be rainy and misty, but not especially cold. Conversely, Grenoble and the Alps can be bitter at any time of year, especially from December to April. The Beaujolais wine region is generally temperate, though a recent Beaujolais Nouveau fest (held on the third Thursday in November) froze vines and revelers alike. South of Lyon along the Rhône the sun beats down on the vineyards in full summer, but the winds howl in winter.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Lyon, with its ample range of architecture, food, and culture, deserves several days—two at the very least. The wine country of the Beaujolais up the River Saône is another two-day visit, unless a drive-through directly to Bourg-en-Bresse is all that time constraints will allow. Medieval Pérouges is another good day’s browse, with time left over for a late afternoon and evening drive into the Alps to Annecy, where the Vieille Ville (Old Town) is an eyeful by day or night. It’s also worth making time for visits to Talloires and other pretty towns around the lake.

The mountain resort of Megève is a place to either settle in for a few days. Grenoble offers opportunities for perusing masterpieces in its superb museum or following the novelist Stendhal’s footsteps through the old quarter.

HOW TO TALK WINE

The Beaujolais region has hundreds of village wine caves (cellars). Opt for those with signs that state “Dégustation, vente en direct” (sold directly from the property) or “Vente au détail” (sold by the bottle). Also look for the town’s co-op caveau, where you can pay a few euros to taste all the wine you want. À votre santé (to your health).

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Lyon is best explored on foot, with the occasional tramway or subway connection to get you across town, or to the train station or airport, in a hurry. Boat tours around the Presqu’île open up another perspective on this riverside metropolis, while bike rentals can also be handy. Consider taking advantage of the Lyon City Card, a one-, two-, or three-day pass (€21, €31, and €41 respectively) to museums, with discounts at boutiques, restaurants, and cultural events. Lyon is an important rail hub with three major stations. Trains from the Gare de la Part-Dieu connect easily with Villefranche-sur-Saône in the middle of the Beaujolais country, while the Gare de Perrache serves points south such as Valence and Vienne.

A car is probably the best way to get around the Beaujolais wine country and the rest of Rhône-Alpes, although bus routes, if infrequent, do usually extend to the far reaches of these regions.

Air Travel

The region’s international gateway airport is Aéroport-Lyon-Saint-Exupéry (08–26–80–08–26 from within France, 33–426–007–007 from abroad), 26 km (16 miles) east of Lyon, in Satolas. There are domestic airports at Grenoble, Valence, Annecy, Chambéry, and Aix-les-Bains.

Bus Travel

Buses from Lyon and Grenoble thoroughly and efficiently serve the region’s smaller towns. Many ski centers, such as Chamonix, have shuttle buses connecting them with surrounding villages. As for Alpine villages, regional buses head out from the main train stations at Annecy, Chambéry, Megève, and Grenoble.

Car Travel

Regional roads are fast and well maintained, though smaller mountainous routes can be difficult to navigate and high passes may be closed in winter. A6 speeds south from Paris to Lyon—a distance of 463 km (287 miles). The Tunnel de Fourvière, which cuts through Lyon, is a classic hazard, and at peak times you may sit idling for hours. Lyon is 313 km (194 miles) north of Marseille on A7.

To make the 105-km (63-mile) trip southeast to Grenoble from Lyon, take A43 to A48. Coming from the south, take A7 to Valence and then swing east on A49 to A48 to Grenoble. From Grenoble to Megève and Chamonix through Annecy take A41–E712 to Annecy (direction Geneva), and then A40 (direction Montblanc-Chamonix). Turn off A40 at Sallanches for the 17-km (10½-mile) drive on the N212 to Megève.

Train Travel

High-speed TGV trains Paris’s Gare de Lyon hourly and arrive in Lyon just two hours later. There are also two to eight TGVs daily between Paris’s Charles de Gaulle Airport and Lyon. Two in-town train stations and a third at the airport (Lyon-Saint-Exupéry) make the city a major transportation hub. The Gare de la Part-Dieu (Bd. Vivier-Merle) is used for the TGV routes and links Lyon with many other cities, including Bordeaux, Montpellier and Marseilles, along with Grenoble. On the other side of town, the centre-ville station at Gare de Perrache (Cours de Verdun, pl. Carnot | 04–72–56–95–30) is the more crowded option and serves all the sights of the centre ville—many trains stop at both stations. The TGV station at Aéroport-Lyon-Saint-Exupéry serves Avignon, Arles, Valence, Annecy, Aix-les-Bains, and Chambéry, as well as Paris. The TGV also has a less frequent service to Grenoble, where you can connect to local SNCF trains headed for villages in the Alps. For the Beaujolais Wine Country, most people travel to Villefranche-sur-Saône’s station on the place de la Gare; trains run to smaller towns from here.

SNCF. | 36–35 | www.sncf.fr.

RESTAURANTS

The food you’ll find in the Rhône-Alps region is some of France’s best—after all, this is considered the birthplace of the country’s traditional cuisine, while also being the engine room of tomorrow’s latest trends and gourmet styles. In Lyon’s countless bouchons (taverns or eating houses), you’ll find everything from gras double (tripe) to boudin noir (black sausage) to paillasson (fried hashed potatoes). If it’s a light or vegetarian meal you’re after, some of the newer wine bars or contemporary French restaurants are your best option.

HOTELS

Hotels, inns, gîtes d’étapes (hikers’ way stations), and chambres d’hôte (bed-and-breakfasts) run the gamut from grand luxe to spartanly rustic in this multifaceted region embracing ultraurban chic in Lyon as well as ski huts in the Alps. Lyon accommodations range from guest rooms with panoramic views high in the hilltop Croix Rousse district to chic hotels in Vieux Lyon. The Alps, of course, are well furnished with top hotels, especially in Grenoble and the time-honored ski resorts such as Chamonix and Megève. Many hotels expect you to have at least your evening meal there, especially in summer; in winter they up the ante and hope travelers will take all three meals. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

TOUR OPTIONS

Lyon City Boat.

This company arranges daily boat trips—with or without a meal—from Lyon’s Quai des Célestins along the Saône and Rhône rivers. | Quai des Célestins | Lyon | 04–78–42–96–81 | www.lyoncityboat.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Comité Régional du Tourisme Rhône-Alpes. | 78 rte. de Paris | Charbonnières-les-Bains | 04–72–59–21–59 | www.rhonealpes-tourisme.com.

Grenoble Office du Tourisme. | 14 rue de la République | Grenoble | 04–76–42–41–41 | www.grenoble-tourisme.com.

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Vieux Lyon and Fourvière | Presqu’île and the Croix Rousse District | Where to Eat | Where to Stay

The city’s setting at the confluence of the Saône and the Rhône is a spectacular riverine landscape overlooked from the heights to the west by the imposing Notre-Dame de Fourvière church and from the north by the hilltop neighborhood of La Croix Rousse. Meanwhile, La Confluence Project at the southern tip of the Presqu’île (the land between the Saône and the Rhône) has reclaimed from the rivers nearly a square mile of center-city real estate that has become a neighborhood of parks, shops, restaurants, and cultural sites. Another attraction is Lyon’s extraordinary dining scene—the city has more good restaurants per square mile than any other European city except Paris.

Getting Here and Around

To get between the Aéroport-Lyon-Saint-Exupéry and the city center take the Rhone Express (08–26–00–17–18 | www.rhonexpress.fr €14.50), a tramway that makes the 30-minute trip every quarter hour between 6 am and 9 pm, with various stops along the way—including the Lyon Part-Dieu train station. If you’re coming by train, Lyon has three major stations so is easily reached by rail. To get here by car, take A6 south from Paris for 463 km (287 miles).

Visitor Information

Lyon Tourist Information. | Pl. Bellecour | 04–72–77–69–69 | www.lyon-france.com.

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EXPLORING

Lyon’s development owes much to its riverside site halfway between Paris and the Mediterranean, and within striking distance of Switzerland, Italy, and the Alps. Lyonnais are proud that their city has been important for more than 2,000 years. Under the Romans, who called it Lugdunum (meaning “hill or fortress of Lug,” the supreme deity of Celtic mythology), it became the second-largest city in their empire and was named the capital of Gaul around 43 BC. The remains of the Roman theater and the Odéon, the Gallo-Roman music hall, are among the most spectacular Roman ruins in the world.

In the middle of the city is the Presqu’île (literally, “almost an island”), a fingerlike peninsula between the rivers where modern Lyon throbs with shops, restaurants, museums, theaters, and a postmodern Jean Nouvel–designed opera house. West of the Saône is Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon), with its peaceful Renaissance charm; above it is the old Roman district of Fourvière. To the north is the hilltop Croix Rousse District, where Lyon’s silk weavers once operated their looms in lofts designed as workshop dwellings, while across the Rhône to the east are a mix of older residential areas, the famous Halles de Lyon market, and the ultramodern Part-Dieu business district with its landmark gratte-ciel (skyscraper) beyond.

VIEUX LYON AND FOURVIÈRE

Vieux Lyon—one of the richest groups of urban Renaissance dwellings in Europe—has narrow cobblestone streets, 15th- and 16th-century mansions, small museums, and a divine cathedral. When Lyon became an important silk-weaving town in the 15th century, Italian merchants and bankers built dozens of Renaissance-style town houses. Officially cataloged as national monuments, the courtyards and passageways are open to the public during the morning. The excellent Renaissance Quarter map of the traboules and courtyards of Vieux Lyon, available at the tourist office and in most hotel lobbies, offers the city’s most gratifying exploring. Above Vieux Lyon, in hilly Fourvière, are the remains of two Roman theaters and the Basilique de Notre-Dame, visible from all over the city.

EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Basilique de Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière.

The rather pompous late-19th-century basilica, at the top of the ficelle (funicular railway), is—for better or worse—the symbol of Lyon. Its mock-Byzantine architecture and hilltop site make it a close relative of Paris’s Sacré-Coeur. Both were built to underline the might of the Roman Catholic Church after the Prussian defeat of France in 1870 gave rise to the birth of the anticlerical Third Republic. The excessive gilt, marble, and mosaics in the interior underscore the Church’s wealth, although they masked its lack of political clout at that time. One of the few places in Lyon where you can’t see the basilica is the adjacent terrace, whose panorama reveals the city—with the cathedral of St-Jean in the foreground and the glass towers of the reconstructed Part-Dieu business complex glistening behind. For a more sweeping view still, climb the 287 steps to the basilica observatory. | 8 pl. de Fourvière, Fourvière | 04–78–25–13–01 | www.fourviere.org | Observatory €6 | Basilica daily 9–noon and 2:30–6. Observatory Easter–Oct., daily 10–12:30 and 2–6; Nov.–Easter, weekends 2–6.

Cathédrale St-Jean.

Solid and determined—having withstood the sieges of time, revolution, and war—the cathedral’s stumpy facade is stuck almost bashfully onto the nave. Although the mishmash inside has its moments—the fabulous 13th-century stained-glass windows in the choir and the varied window tracery and vaulting in the side chapels—the interior lacks drama and harmony. Still, it’s an architectural history lesson. The cathedral dates from the 12th century, and the chancel is Romanesque, but construction on the whole continued over three centuries. The 14th-century astronomical clock, in the north transept, is a marvel of technology very much worth seeing. It chimes a hymn to St. John on the hour at noon, 2, 3, and 4 as a screeching rooster and other automatons enact the Annunciation. | 70 rue St-Jean, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–92–82–29 | www.cathedrale-lyon.cef.fr | Weekdays, 8:15–7:45, Sat., 8:15–7, Sun., 8–7.

Hôtel Bullioud.

This superb Renaissance mansion, close to the Hôtel Paterin, is noted for its courtyard, with an ingenious gallery built in 1536 by Philibert Delorme, one of France’s earliest and most accomplished exponents of classical architecture. Delorme also worked on several spectacular châteaux in central France, including those at Fontainebleau and Chenonceaux. | 8 rue Juiverie, off Pl. St-Paul, Vieux Lyon | Free | Daily 10–noon and 2–6.

Maison du Crible.

This 17th-century mansion is one of Lyon’s oldest. In the courtyard you can glimpse a charming garden and the original Tour Rose—an elegant pink tower. In those days, the higher the tower, the greater the prestige. This one was owned by a tax collector. | 16 rue du Bœuf, off Pl. du Petit-Collège, Vieux Lyon | Free | Daily 10–noon and 2–6.

Musée Gallo-Romain de Fourvière (Gallo-Roman Museum).

Since 1933, systematic excavations have unearthed vestiges of Lyon’s opulent Roman precursor. The statues, mosaics, vases, coins, and tombstones are excellently displayed in this partially subterranean museum next to the Roman theaters. The large, bronze Table Claudienne is inscribed with part of Emperor Claudius’s address to the Roman Senate in AD 48, conferring senatorial rights on the Roman citizens of Gaul. | 17 rue Clébert, Fourvière | 04–72–38–81–90 | www.musees-gallo-romains.com | €4 | Tues.–Sun. 10–6.

FAMILY | Musées Gadagne (Lyon Historical Museum and Puppet Museum).

These two museums are housed in the city’s largest ensemble of Renaissance buildings, the Hôtel de Gadagne, built between the 14th and 16th centuries. The Musée d’Histoire de Lyon traces the city’s history from its pre-Roman days onward, displaying sculpture, furniture, pottery, paintings, and engravings. The Musée des Marionnettes du Monde focuses on the history of puppets, beginning with Guignol and Madelon—Lyon’s Punch and Judy—created by Laurent Mourguet in 1795. It includes two hanging gardens, a café, and a shop. | 1 pl. du Petit-Collège, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–42–03–61 | www.gadagne.musees.lyon.fr | €6 one museum, €8 for both museums | Wed.–Sun. 11–6:30.

Place Bellecour.

Shady, imposing Place Bellecour is one of the largest squares in France, and is Lyon’s fashionable center, midway between the Saône and the Rhône. Classical facades erected along its narrower sides in 1800 lend architectural interest. The large, bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIV, installed in 1828, is the work of local sculptor Jean Lemot. | Presqu’île.

Fodor’s Choice | Rue du Bœuf.

Like the parallel Rue St-Jean, Rue du Bœuf has traboules, courtyards, spiral staircases, towers, and facades. The traboule at No. 31 hooks through and out onto Rue de la Bombarde. At No. 19 is the standout Maison de l’Outarde d’Or, so named for the great bustard, a gooselike game bird, depicted in the coat of arms over the door. The late-15th-century house and courtyard inside have spiral staircases in the towers, which were built as symbols of wealth and power. No. 20 conceals one of the rare open-shaft spiral staircases allowing for a view all the way up the core. The Hotel Tour Rose at No. 22 has, indeed, a beautiful tour rose (pink tower) in the inner courtyard. At the corner of Place Neuve St-Jean and Rue du Bœuf is the famous sign portraying the bull for which Rue du Bœuf is named, the work of the Renaissance Italy–trained French sculptor Jean de Bologne. | Vieux Lyon.

Fodor’s Choice | Rue St-Jean.

Once Vieux Lyon’s major thoroughfare, this street leads north from Place St-Jean to Place du Change, where money changers operated during medieval trade fairs. The elegant houses along it were built for illustrious Lyonnais bankers and Italian silk merchants during the French Renaissance. The traboule at No. 54 leads all the way through to Rue du Bœuf (No. 27). Beautiful Renaissance courtyards can be visited at No. 50, No. 52, and No. 42. At No. 27 rue St-Jean, an especially beautiful traboule winds through to No. 6 rue des Trois Maries. No. 28 has a pretty courtyard, as do No. 18 and No. 24. Maison Le Viste at No. 21 has a splendid facade. | Vieux Lyon.

Théâtres Romains (Roman Theaters).

Two ruined, semicircular, Roman-built theaters are tucked into the hillside, just down from the summit of Fourvière. The Grand Théâtre, the oldest Roman theater in France, was built in 15 BC to seat 10,000. The smaller Odéon, with its geometric flooring, was designed for music and poetry performances. | Colline Fourvière, Fourvière | Free | Daily 9–dusk.

Worth Noting

Jardin Archéologique (Archaeological Garden).

Inside this garden are the excavated ruins of two churches that succeeded one another. The foundations of the churches were unearthed during a time when apartment buildings—constructed here after churches had been destroyed during the Revolution—were being demolished. One arch forms part of the ornamentation in the garden. | Rue de la Bombarde, Vieux Lyon.

Jardin des Plantes (Botanical Garden).

In these luxurious Botanical Gardens you’ll find remnants of the once-huge Amphithéâtre des Trois Gauls (Three Gauls Amphitheater), built in AD 19. | Rue de la Tourette, Vieux Lyon | Daily dawn–dusk.

Église Saint-Paul.

The 12th-century church of St-Paul is noted for its octagonal lantern, its frieze of animal heads in the chancel, and its late-period Flamboyant Gothic chapel. | Pl. St-Paul, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–29–69–58.

Tour Métallique (Metal Tower).

Beyond Fourvière Basilica is this skeletal metal tower, built in 1893 and now a television transmitter. The stone staircase at the foot of it—the Montée Nicolas-de-Lange—is a direct but steep route from the basilica to the St-Paul train station. | Colline Fourvière, Fourvière.

Lyon: A Step-by-Step Walk

Start your walk armed with free maps from the Lyon tourist office on Presqu’île’s place Bellecour.

Cross the square and head north along lively rue du Président-Herriot; turn left onto place des Jacobins and explore rue Mercière and the small streets off it.

Cross the Saône on the Passerelle du Palais de Justice (Palace of Justice Footbridge); now you are in Vieux Lyon.

Facing you is the old Palais de Justice. Turn right and walk 200 yards along quai Romain Rolland to No. 17, where there’s a traboule that leads to No. 9 rue des Trois Maries.

Take another right to get to small place de la Baleine. Exit the square on the left (north) side and then go right on historic rue St-Jean.

All along it are traboules and patios leading into lovely courtyards with spiral staircases and mullioned windows.

Head up to cobblestoned place du Change; on your left is the Loge du Change church.

Take rue Soufflot and turn left onto rue de Gadagne. The Hôtel de Gadagne now houses two museums: the Musée d’Histore de Lyon, with medieval sculpture and local artifacts, and the Musée des Marionnettes du Monde, a puppet museum.

Walk south along rue du Boeuf, parallel to rue St-Jean: at No. 16, just off tiny place du Petit-Collège, is the Maison du Crible, with its pink tower.

Cut through the traboule at 31 rue du Boeuf into rue de la Bombarde and go left to get to the Jardin Archéologique, a small garden with two excavated churches.

Alongside the garden is the solid Cathédrale St-Jean, itself an architectural history lesson. The ficelle (funicular railway) runs from the cathedral to the top of Colline de Fourvière (Fourvière Hill).

Take the Montée de Fourvière to the Théâtres Romains, the well-preserved remnants of two Roman theaters.

Overlooking the theaters is the semisubterranean Musée Gallo-Romaine de Fourvière, a repository for Roman finds.

Continue up the hill and take the first right to the mock-Byzantine Basilique de Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière.

Return to Vieux Lyon via the Montée Nicolas-de-Lange, the stone stairway at the foot of the Tour Métallique (Metal Tower).

You will emerge alongside the St-Paul train station. Venture onto rue Juiverie, off place St-Paul, to see two splendid Renaissance mansions, the Hôtel Paterin, at No. 4, and the Hôtel Bullioud, at No. 8.

PRESQU’ÎLE AND THE CROIX ROUSSE DISTRICT

Presqu’île, the peninsula flanked by the Saône and the Rhône, is Lyon’s modern center, with fashionable shops, a trove of restaurants and museums, and squares graced by fountains and 19th-century buildings. This is the core of Lyon, and you’ll be tempted to explore the entire stretch, from the southern point of the peninsula at La Confluence, up past the Gare de Perrache train station to place Bellecour, and all the way up to place des Terreaux.

EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Institut Lumière.

On the site where the Lumière brothers, Auguste and Louis, invented cinematography in their family home, this museum has daily showings of early film classics and contemporary movies as well as a permanent exhibit about the Lumières. | 25 rue du premier Filme, Part-Dieu | 04–78–78–18–95 | www.institut-lumiere.org | €7.20 | Tues.–Sun. 10–6:30.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

In the elegant 17th-century Palais St-Pierre, formerly a Benedictine abbey, this museum houses one of France’s largest art collections after that of the Louvre. Byzantine ivories, Etruscan statues, Egyptian artifacts, and top-notch sculptures (most notably Rodin’s Walker) are all on display; however, paintings remain the highlight. Amid old master, Impressionist, and modern paintings are works by the tight-knit Lyon School, characterized by exquisitely rendered flowers and overbearing religious sentimentality. Note Louis Janmot’s Poem of the Soul, immaculately painted visions that are by turns heavenly, hellish, and downright spooky. A newer trove of treasures includes works by Manet, Monet, Degas, Bacon, Braque, and Picasso. | Palais St-Pierre,20 pl. des Terreaux, Presqu’île | 04–72–10–17–40 | www.mba-lyon.fr | €7 permanent collection; €9 temporary exhibits; €12 for both | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

Musée Historique des Tissus (Textile Arts Museum).

A sister museum to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, this one is dedicated to the woven-arts industries that were so crucial to Lyon’s fame and fortune. Highlights include Asian tapestries from as early as the fourth century, Turkish and Persian carpets from the 16th to the 18th century, and 18th-century Lyon silks, so lovingly depicted in many portraits of the time. In the same building is the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which has fine collections of silverware, furniture, porcelain, and tapestries. | 34 rue de la Charité, Presqu’île | 04–78–38–42–00 | www.musee-des-tissus.com | €10 joint ticket with nearby Musée des Arts Décoratifs | Tues.–Sun. 10–5:30.

Opéra de Lyon.

The barrel-vaulted Lyon Opera, a reincarnation of a moribund 1831 building, was designed by star French architect Jean Nouvel and built in the early 1990s. It incorporates a columned exterior, soaring glass vaulting, neoclassical public spaces, and an all-black interior. High above, looking out between the heroic statues lined up along the parapet, is a small but excellent restaurant, Les Muses de l’Opéra. | 1 pl. de la Comédie, Presqu’île | 08–26–30–53–25 | www.opera-lyon.com.

Place des Terreaux.

The four majestic horses rearing up from a monumental 19th-century fountain in the middle of this large square are an allegory of the River Saône by Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi, who sculpted New York Harbor’s Statue of Liberty. The 69 fountains embedded in the wide expanse of the square are illuminated by fiber-optic technology at night. The notable buildings on either side are the Hôtel de Ville and the Musée des Beaux-Arts. | Presqu’île.

Worth Noting

Basilique de Saint-Martin d’Ainay.

This fortified church dates back to a 10th-century Benedictine abbey and a 9th-century sanctuary before that. The millenary energy field is palpable around the hulking structure, especially near the rear of the apse where the stained-glass windows glow richly in the twilight. In 1844 it became one of the first buildings in France to be classified a national monument; its interior murals and frescoes, though, are disappointingly plain and austere compared to the quirky, rough exterior. | Pl. de l’Abbaye d’Ainay, Presqu’île | 04–78–72–10–03 | Free | Daily 9–1 and 4–7.

Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation (Museum of the History of the Resistance and the Deportation).

During World War II, Lyon played an important role in the Resistance movement against the German occupation of France. Newly renovated displays include equipment, such as radios and printing presses, photographs, and exhibits re-creating the clandestine lives and heroic exploits of Resistance fighters. | 14 av. Berthelot, Part-Dieu | Station: Jean Macé; tramway T2: Centre Berthelot | 04–78–72–23–11 | www.chrd.lyon.fr | €4, €7 guided tours | Wed.–Sat. 10–6.

Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall).

Architects Jules Hardouin-Mansart and Robert de Cotte redesigned the very impressive facade of the Town Hall after a 1674 fire. The rest of the building dates from the early 17th century. | Pl. des Terreaux, Presqu’île.

FAMILY | Maison des Canuts (Silk Weavers’ Museum).

Old-time Jacquard looms are still in action at this historic house in the Croix Rousse, and the weavers are happy to show children how the process works. The boutique is a great place to stock up on a colorful range of silk, wool, and linen scarves all made in Lyon. | 10–12 rue d’Ivry, La Croix Rousse | 04–78–28–62–04 | www.maisondescanuts.com | €6.50 | Mon.–Sat. 10–6; guided tours at 11 and 3:30.

WHERE TO EAT

Au 14 Février.

MODERN FRENCH | Cupid’s arrows don’t quite account for the rapturous reviews garnered by Tsuyoshi Arai in his tiny chocolate box of a restaurant. The young chef trained in French kitchens for over a decade, honing his natural genius before striking out on his own. A Michelin star later, the persnickety Lyonnais have fallen hard, waiting weeks to savor dishes that combine Japanese subtlety with rigorous French technique—like poached foie gras and creamy parsnip purée with caramelized carrot sauce, scallops rolled in sole and smoky bacon, verbena-infused lobster consommé with caviar, and salmon tartare in a gingery court bouillon with zucchini mousse. The quirky atmosphere (hello mirrored ceilings!) and excellent-value menu only add to its allure. | Average main: €32 | 6 rue Mourguet, 5e, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–92–91–39 | www.au14fevrier.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch Wed. No dinner Sun. late Aug.–late Apr.

Auberge de l’Île.

FRENCH | If you’re taking a walk along the River Saône, this enchanted eatery on leafy Île Barbe is the perfect place to refuel. Whether outside on the terrace or inside the graceful former 17th-century monastery refectory, it serves smart, contemporary cuisine based on fresh market products prepared with originality. Chef Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex is famous for his oral daily menu performance (listen for game in fall or winter), and the wine list is strong in local Condrieu and Côte-Rotie selections. Ordering a prix-fixe lunch menu (Tuesday to Friday: €48) will help you avoid a major economic hemorrhage. | Average main: €50 | L’Ile Barbe, Collonges au Mont-D’Or | 04–78–83–99–49 | www.aubergedelile.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.

Brasserie Georges.

FRENCH | This inexpensive brasserie at the south end of Rue de la Charité is one of the city’s largest and oldest, founded in 1836 but now housed in a palatial building dating from 1925. Meals range from hearty veal stew or sauerkraut and sausage to more refined fare. Cooking is less than creative—stick with the great standards, such as saucisson brioché (sausage in brioche stuffed with truffled foie gras)—and, like the vast room setting, service is a bit impersonal. Nevertheless, the Art Deco style is as delicious as it comes. | Average main: €22 | 30 cours Verdun, Perrache | 04–72–56–54–54 | www.brasseriegeorges.com.

Café 203.

FRENCH | This happening spot near the opera is always teeming with young people and artists. Named for the Peugeot 203 parked in front of the terrace, the café-restaurant-chill-out is open daily from dawn to after midnight (but no Sunday breakfast). Its delicious Italianate cuisine is fresh, fast, original, and inexpensive. For a quick pre- or post-opera meal, this is the place. | Average main: €12 | 9 rue du Garet, Presqu’île | 04–78–28–66–65 | Average main: €12 | 23 rue de l’Arbre Sec, Presqu’île.

Café des Fédérations.

FRENCH | For 80 years this sawdust-strewn café with homey red-check tablecloths has reigned as one of the city’s leading bouchons; however, it may have overextended its stay by trading on past glory—some readers report a desultory hand in the kitchen, and native Lyonnais seem to head elsewhere since the legendary Raymond Fulchiron’s recent retirement. Still, for a taste of classic Lyon gastronomy in a historic setting, the deftly prepared local classics like boudin blanc (white-meat sausage), boudin noir (black sausage), or andouillettes (veal and pork tripe sausage) are hard to beat. | Average main: €16 | 8 rue du Major-Martin, Presqu’île | 04–78–28–26–00 | www.lesfedeslyon.com | Closed Sun. and July 23–Aug. 23.

Chez Hugon.

FRENCH | One of the city’s top-rated insider spots, this typical bouchon with the de rigueur red-check tablecloths sits behind the Musée des Beaux-Arts. Practically a club, it’s crowded with regulars who trade quips with the owner while the kitchen prepares the best tablier de sapeur (tripe marinated in wine and fried in bread crumbs) in town. Whether you order the hunks of homemade pâté, the stewed chicken in wine vinegar sauce, or the plate of ris de veau (sweetbreads), your dinner will add up to good, inexpensive food and plenty of it. | Average main: €18 | 12 rue Pizay, Presqu’île | 04–78–28–10–94 | www.bouchonlyonnais.fr | Closed weekends and Aug.

Christian Têtedoie.

MODERN FRENCH | Star chef Christian Têtedoie’s rocked the culinary world when, after 20 years, he shuttered his Michelin-starred gastronomic temple to open this soaring art-filled aerie perched atop Lyon’s Fourvière hill. The minimalist design and immense bay windows offering staggering views of the city signaled a new direction in the great chef’s approach, breaking free of classicism in favor of a more audacious menu: roasted foie gras with bitter orange, pineapple, and onion in a duck reduction; roast pigeon stuffed with garlic, cabbage, and chestnuts; or the chef’s signature pressed tête de veau (calf’s head) served with a half lobster en cocotte (casserole). Le Phosphore wine bar downstairs offers lighter wine-focused “degustation” menus orchestrated by Têtedoie and a guest winemaker with a price-to-quality quotient that’s hard to beat anywhere in town. | Average main: €36 | Chemin Neuf,1 rue de l’Antiquaille, Fourvière | 04–78–29–40–10 | www.tetedoie.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun.

Fodor’s Choice | Comptoir Abel.

FRENCH | About 400-years-old, this charming house is one of Lyon’s most frequently filmed and photographed taverns. Simple wooden tables in wood-panel dining rooms, quirky art on every wall, heavy-bottom pot lyonnais wine bottles—every detail is obviously pampered and lovingly produced. The salade lyonnaise (green salad with homemade croutons and sautéed bacon, topped with a poached egg) or the rognons madère (kidneys in a Madeira sauce) are standouts. | Average main: €23 | 25 rue Guynemer, Presqu’île | 04–78–37–46–18 | www.cafecomptoirabel.com | No dinner Sun.

Daniel & Denise.

BISTRO | Among other honors, chef Joseph Viola has distinguished himself by creating a world-champion pâté en croûte—nothing to sneeze at, especially if you’re at the helm of one of Lyon’s best bouchons (taverns specializing in cuisine populaire). The traditional bouchon has come up in the world, and here you’ll find a charming atmosphere, complete with checked tablecloths, lace curtains, and some of the city’s most satisfying local specialties, including the quenelles au brochet (creamy fat sausages made from river pike). Cervelle de veau (calf brains) is another standout, and the faint of heart can’t go wrong with the excellent boudin noir (blood sausage) or the meltingly tender foie gras en croûte. Note: there are two Daniel & Denise outposts, but this one, in the Vieille Ville, is slightly more upscale. | Average main: €18 | 36 rue Tramassac, 5e, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–42–24–62 | danieletdenise-stjean.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun.

Jura.

FRENCH | The gateau de foies de volaille aux raviolis (chicken liver ravioli) is a masterpiece at this eatery founded in 1864. The game and steak dishes are robust, as is the cassoulet des escargots (stew of beans, mutton, and snails). For dessert, stick with the terrific cheese selection. The rows of tables, the mosaic-tile floor, and the absence of anything too decorative gives this place the feel of a men’s club. | Average main: €16 | 25 rue Tupin, Presqu’île | 04–78–42–20–57 | www.bouchonlejura.fr | Closed weekends May–Sept., closed Sun. and Mon. Oct.–Apr.

Fodor’s Choice | La Famille.

FRENCH | As the name would suggest, family photographs adorn the walls of this low-key bistro high on the Croix-Rousse hillside. The simple cuisine tends toward traditional recipes and authentic Lyon fare. From the poulet fermier (free-range chicken) to the grilled trout, the daily chalkboard announces the market specialties that Chef Gilles Mozziconacci has managed to cobble together on his early morning marketing tour through Les Halles de Lyon. In summer, opt for a table on the terrace. | Average main: €16 | 18 rue Duviard, Croix Rousse | 04–72–98–83–90 | www.la-famille-croix-rousse.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Fodor’s Choice | La Mère Brazier.

FRENCH | This is a legendary location in Lyon—even more so now that Mathieu Viannay, one of the top names in the city’s contemporary cuisine scene, has honored food pioneer Eugénie Brazier by opening a restaurant in her former space. A winner of the coveted Meilleur Ouvrier de France prize, Viannay continues to experiment with taste, textures, and ingredients in this carefully restored traditional house. He describes the menu as “mixed” between completely modern cuisine and “Mère Brazier recipes revisited” such as the poularde de Bresse demi-deuil (Bresse poultry in “half mourning,” that is, with black truffles under the breast skin). | Average main: €55 | 12 rue Royale, Presqu’île | 04–78–23–17–20 | www.lamerebrazier.fr | Reservations essential | Closed weekends and Aug.

L’Ame Soeur.

MODERN FRENCH | Just behind the Palais de Justice, this little néo-bistrot (think comfortable vibe but contemporary design) has a €20 prix-fixe formule that is nothing short of superb in terms of both value and quality. Artisanal terrine of free-range duck, rillettes de maquereau en salade de chou chinois (mackerel fillets in Chinese cabbage salad), or fillet of rockfish with peppers are just some of the interesting morsels at this innovative, affordable address. | Average main: €15 | 209 rue Duguesclin, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–42–47–78 | Reservations essential | Closed weekends, Thurs., Fri. dinner.

La Table de Suzanne.

MODERN FRENCH | Arnaud and Carine Leclercq racked up impressive successes from Zurich to Dubai before opening this 65-seat restaurant where good value and good cooking meet. The set menus at lunch (€23) and dinner (€48) both offer fine classic-contemporary French cuisine. The soupe mousseuse de châtaignes et crème fermière (soup-mousse of chestnuts and farmhouse cream) has a Corsican flavor, while the tartine de canard séché (crispy duck pie), steamed fish with sea algae, and jumbo shrimp tempura are all excellent. | Average main: €27 | 39 rue Auguste Comte, Presqu’île | 04–78–37–49–83 | www.latabledesuzanne.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Le Café Mokxa.

Watch the world go by on the streetside terrace at this small but lively café on a picturesque square at the foot of the hill leading to Croix-Rousse. Low-key and casual, the focus here is squarely on the java—kind of caffeinated beverage can be conjured up here, and coffee aficionados are reassured by the fact that the meticulously sourced beans are roasted on the premises. Freshly baked carrot cake or cheesecake, tarte au citron, and warm chocolate fondant are irresistibly decadent alongside a luscious café crème. There’s also a great choice of magazines and newspapers and free Wi-Fi access. | Average main: €4 | 3 rue Abbé Rozier, Presqu’île | 04–27–01–48–71 | www.cafemokxa.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Garet.

FRENCH | From quenelles (fish dumplings) to the house favorite, andouillettes (tripe sausage), this is the perfect primer course in bouchon fare. The cozy and joyful atmosphere is, perhaps even more than the food itself, what makes Lyon’s version of the French bistro so irresistible. The salade lyonnaise (frisée lettuce, pork lardons, croutons, and a poached egg, with a Dijon vinaigrette) is an institution at this famous dining room near the Hôtel de Ville. The roast veal chop and ratatouille provide a welcome break from the standard porcine bouchon lineup. | Average main: €20 | 7 rue Garet, Presqu’île | 04–78–28–16–94 | Reservations essential | Closed weekends and late July–late Aug.

Le Nord.

FRENCH | The setting here is authentic turn-of-the-20th-century brasserie, with tiled floors, globe lamps, crisp white table linens, and a miles-long zinc bar. One of legendary chef Paul Bocuse’s quartet of brasseries around the city, Le Nord has the feel of a traditional Lyonnais bouchon, with the classic fare to match—ris de veau (sweetbreads), boudin noir (blood sausage), creamed chicken, and the local classic quenelles (fish sausage), and plenty of house-made charcuterie. | Average main: €23 | 18 rue Neuve, Presqu’île | 04–72–10–69–69 | www.nordsudbrasseries.com.

Le Sud.

FRENCH | The southern quadrant of Paul Bocuse’s quartet, located in Lyon’s central Bellecour neighborhood, this modern, sun-drenched eatery (with great people-watching potential) focuses on cooking from France’s Mediterranean. Olive oil in all its glory takes front and center, whether spicy and green to complement fresh fish or vividly floral in a slow-cooked tagine of roasted eggplant, sweet onions, and preserved lemon. The wines of sunny Provence feature prominently of the excellent wine list, as do those of the Rhône. | Average main: €23 | 11 pl. Antonin-Poncet, Presqu’île | 04–72–77–80–00 | www.nordsudbrasseries.com.

L’Est.

FRENCH | One of Lyon’s Paul Bocuse four brasseries, the elegant L’Est is set in the 19th-century Belle Époque Brotteaux train station and cooks up a travel theme, thanks to a fish-centric menu that includes flavors from the world over—Cantonese rice with jumbo shrimp and squid, house-smoked Scottish salmon, curried cod with coconut milk and coriander, copious seafood platters—and a setting flavored with railroad memorabilia and a soupçon of nostalgia. | Average main: €23 | Gare des Brotteaux,14 pl. Jules Ferry, Les Brotteaux | 04–37–24–25–26 | www.nordsudbrasseries.com.

L’Ouest.

FRENCH | Set in an stylish industrial loft-style space in a quiet neighborhood on the banks of the river Saône, L’Ouest’s sundrenched interior and beautiful outdoor terrace are the perfect backdrop for Bocuse’s maritime culinary adventures in the islands of the Atlantic, Caribbean, and the South Seas. Dishes like turbot with wasabi-roasted vegetables, grilled crab cakes and garlicky aiöli, or carpaccio of tuna served three ways celebrate the sea’s briny best. The visible glassed in wine cellar and excellent list of wines by the glass are your first clue that you won’t go away thirsty. | Average main: €23 | 1 Quai du Commerce, Villefranche | 04–37–64–64–64 | www.nordsudbrasseries.com.

Les Lyonnais.

FRENCH | Decorated with photographs of local celebrities, this popular bistro is particularly animated. The simple food—chicken simmered for hours in wine, meaty stews, and grilled fish—is served on bare wood tables. A blackboard announces plats du jour, which are usually less expensive than items on the printed menu. Try the caille aux petits legumes (quail with baby vegetables) for a change from heavier bouchon fare like the bugnes (beignets of fried pork fat). | Average main: €20 | 19 rue de la Bombarde, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–37–64–82 | www.restaurant-lyonnais.com | Closed Aug. and 1st wk in Jan.

L’Étage.

FRENCH | Hidden over Place des Terreaux, this semisecret upstairs dining room in a former silk-weaving loft prepares some of Lyon’s finest and most daring new cuisine. A place at the window (admittedly hard to come by), overlooking the facade of the Beaux Arts academy across the square, is a moment to remember—especially during December’s Festival of Lights. | Average main: €22 | 4 pl. des Terreaux, 3rd fl., Presqu’île | 04–78–28–19–59 | www.letage-restaurant.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., and late July–late Aug.

M Restaurant.

FRENCH | Accomplished chef Julian Gautier struts his considerable stuff at this stylish upper-Brotteaux-district bistro east of the Rhône. Expect an inventive, market-driven cuisine, characterized by dishes like slow-cooked lamb with grilled eggplant, buffala mozzarella and pine nuts; jumbo shrimp in a broth of garlic and tarragon; or succulent basque chicken with grilled chorizo and roasted red peppers to savor along with a fine selection of good-value wines by the bottle or glass. Consistently fabulous food, gentle prices, and a sleek contemporary design have made this bistro an exceedingly popular choice among fashionable foodies. | Average main: €20 | 47 av. Foch, Les Brotteaux | 04–78–89–55–19 | www.mrestaurant.fr | Reservations essential | Closed weekends and Aug.

Fodor’s Choice | Ô Vins d’Anges.

WINE BAR | He’s an indefatigable champion of small-producer wines, and you’d have to be a stone not to be swept up in Sébastien Milleret’s passion. But if it’s proof you need, you’ve come to the right place. A congenial atmosphere prevails at this wine shop and bar, and excellent small dishes—luscious burrata cheese served with fruity olive oil and capers, freshly shaved bresaola and lardo, or briny smoked eel—are complemented by reasonably priced wines by the glass. On Saturday afternoon, wine barrels are rolled out for tastings that draw a neighborhood crowd and often pour out onto the picturesque square. | Average main: €10 | 2 pl. Bertone, Croix Rousse | 09–51–88–20–99 | ovinsdanges.free.fr/ovinsdanges4 | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Fodor’s Choice | Palégrié.

BISTRO | A brilliant example of the bistronomie movement that’s sweeping France, chef Guillaume Monjuré’s sophisticated, fastidiously sourced cuisine is earning accolades from all quarters. Modest wooden tables and a spare decor belie a rich local fare rooted firmly in the bistro lexicon and imaginatively updated. Dishes like risotto perfumed with saffron and anise or luscious beef with wild trompettes de la mort mushrooms, black olives, and creamy rutabega attest to this up-and-coming chef’s flair with food. Spend just a few euros more for the menu improviste at dinner (€39), a perfect introduction to this ambitious cuisine. | Average main: €18 | 8 rue Palais-Grillet, 2e, Presqu’île | 04–78–92–94–84 | www.palegrie.fr | Closed weekends. No lunch Mon.

Fodor’s Choice | Paul Bocuse.

FRENCH | Whether Paul Bocuse—who kick-started the “new” French cooking back in the 1970s and became a superstar in the process—is here or not, the legendary black-truffle soup in pastry crust he created in 1975 to honor President Giscard d’Estaing will be. So will the frogs’-leg soup with watercress; the green bean and artichoke salad with foie gras; and the “tripled” wood-pigeon, consisting of a drumstick in puff pastry, a breast roasted and glazed in cognac, and an aromatic dark pâté of the innards. For a mere €250 per person, the Menu Grand Tradition Classique includes the volaille de Bresse truffée en vessie “Mère Fillioux” (Bresse hen cooked in a pig bladder with truffles), which comes to the table looking something like a basketball. Like the desserts, the grand dining room is done in traditional style. Call ahead if you want to find out whether Bocuse will be cooking, and be sure to book far in advance. | Average main: €60 | 40 quai de la Plage, 10 km (6 miles) north of city center, Collongues au Mont d’Or | 04–72–42–90–90 | www.bocuse.fr | Reservations essential | Jacket required.

Fodor’s Choice | Takao Takano.

MODERN FRENCH | After barely a year on his own, Takao Takano’s eponymous restaurant earned off-the-charts accolades and a coveted Michelin star for his imaginative cuisine. Takano honed his craft during eight years as sous chef to Nicholas Le Bec (now in Shanghai), but he brings his own aesthetic to the fore in a warm, pared-down space outside the city center. Beautifully presented dishes, like tender Limousin lamb with artichokes and spicy olive oil; cucumber tarts with horseradish-inflected tarama and oyster-and-watercress gelée; roasted veal with bok choy, girolles mushrooms, and finely shaved lardo di Colonnata change according to the season. If you’re pressed for time, or want to make one culinary splurge, you can’t go wrong here. | Average main: €30 | 33 rue Malesherbes, 6e, Part-Dieu | 04–82–31–43–39 | takaotakano.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon.

WHERE TO STAY

Boscolo Grand Hôtel.

HOTEL | Erté prints set a stylish tone in the guest rooms at this stylish Belle Époque hotel off Place de la République. Other pluses include a courteously efficient staff and the fact that the Rhône is just across the street. Mostly modern furnishings are offset by one special piece of furniture per room, such as an armoire or writing desk. Breakfast is extra. Pros: central location good for shopping and exploring; adequately appointed and comfortable rooms. Cons: a little impersonal; not an intimate hideaway. | Rooms from: €390 | 11 rue Grôlée, Presqu’île | 04–72–40–45–45 | www.boscolograndhotellyon.com | 140 rooms | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Collège.

HOTEL | A faithful reproduction of the owner’s schoolboy days in Vieux Lyon, this charmingly nostalgic hotel (“taking us back to our dreams,” as the owner puts it) offers public spaces decorated as antique classrooms, complete with polished wooden desks with inkwells and geography maps. The breakfast room is a study hall, while rooms range from simple “undergraduate” quarters to “postgraduate” suites. Decorated in stark-white minimal style, most rooms come with nifty views over the Saône and Lyon. Pros: in the heart of Vieux Lyon; reasonably price; fun schoolboy theme. Cons: spartan interiors; rooms a bit short on space. | Rooms from: €150 | 5 pl. St-Paul, Vieux Lyon | 04–72–10–05–05 | www.college-hotel.com | 39 rooms | No meals.

Dock Ouest.

HOTEL | The newest feather in Paul Bocuse’s voluminous cap, Dock Ouest aims for a more youthful clientele that cares more about stylish comforts than an out-of-the-way location. Roomy and bright, the sleekly functional rooms are done in a minimalist style, with hardwood floors, handy kitchenettes, and beds that are as comfortable as a cloud. The four top-floor suites are a great deal, considering their large private terraces with leafy views toward the river. You also benefit from the Bocuse culinary acumen: breakfasts are above standard hotel fare, and the great chef’s Bistro Ouest is just down the street. Pros: excellent value; couldn’t be quieter; underground parking. Cons: a 10-minute walk from the metro. | Rooms from: €95 | 39 rue des Docks, 9e, Saint-Rambert | 04–78–22–34–34 | www.dockouest.com | 38 rooms, 5 suites | No meals.

Hôtel des Artistes.

HOTEL | On an elegant square opposite the Théâtre des Célestins, this chic hotel has a sense of theatricality—logically enough because it has long been popular among stage and screen artists (many of whose photographs adorn the lobby walls). The guest rooms are smallish but modern and comfortable, and the friendly reception staff and great location appeal to all comers. Breakfast is extra. Pros: central location for Presqu’île; pretty view over square. Cons: slightly cluttered spaces; a few clicks behind cutting-edge technology. | Rooms from: €144 | 8 rue Gaspard-André, Presqu’île | 04–78–42–04–88 | www.hotel-des-artistes.fr | 45 rooms | No meals.

Hôtel du Théâtre.

HOTEL | A friendly and enthusiastic owner, reasonable prices, and central location make this a recommendable address. The guest rooms have theatrical views overlooking Place des Célestins, some also have bathrooms with tubs (some have showers only). Breakfast is included. Pros: sense of being at the center of the action; wallet friendly. Cons: small to tiny spaces in and around the hotel; street-side rooms can be noisy at night. | Rooms from: €69 | 10 rue de Savoie, Presqu’île | 04–78–42–33–32 | www.hotel-du-theatre.net | 24 rooms | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | La Cour des Loges.

HOTEL | King Juan Carlos of Spain, Celine Dion, and the Rolling Stones have all graced this former convent whose glowing fireplaces, Florentine crystal chandeliers, Baroque credenzas, and guest rooms swathed in antique Lyon silks now make monastic austerity a very distant memory. Set around an arcaded and glassed-in Renaissance courtyard, most rooms are like artists’ ateliers, replete with Philippe Starck bathrooms. Best of all, the Michelin-starred restaurant, Les Loges, is one of Lyon’s best, with a graceful dining room, a cellar-level wine bar, a separate café-épicerie restaurant with a lovely vaulted ceiling and, best of all, Chef Anthony Bonnet, one of Lyon’s top young talents. Pros: top Vieux Lyon location; cheerful service; extraordinary restaurant. Cons: hard on the budget. | Rooms from: €275 | 6 rue du Bœuf, Vieux Lyon | 04–72–77–44–44 | www.courdesloges.com | 57 rooms, 4 suites | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Phénix Hôtel.

HOTEL | This little hotel overlooking the River Saône has a winning combination of handy location, charming staff, tasteful rooms, and moderate prices. Its modern style is gracefully juxtaposed with its 16th-century ceiling beams and Renaissance facade. Some rooms have fireplaces, and the smallish but cozy upper-floor rooms are charmingly built into the eaves and rooftop dormers. Pros: convenient to but not in the middle of Vieux Lyon; stylish but not stuffy; easy on the budget. Cons: interior rooms on the air shaft; a long walk to the middle of the Presqu’île. | Rooms from: €195 | 7 quai Bondy, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–28–24–24 | www.hotel-le-phenix.fr | 36 rooms | No meals.

Villa Florentine.

HOTEL | High above the Vieille Ville, this pristine hotel was once a 17th-century convent; glowing in its ocher-yellow exterior, it has vaulted ceilings, lovely terraces, and marvelous views, seen to best advantage from the Terrasses de Lyon restaurant. With a glassed-in winter garden and tomato-red salons, this excellent eatery offers an exciting nouvelle menu. Throughout, in time-warp fashion, 17th-century Italianate architectural details are contrasted with the latest in bright postmodern Italian furnishings. The clientele is travelers seeking peace and quiet. Breakfast is extra. Pros: panoramic location above the Saône; wonderful restaurant; good access to Vieux Lyon. Cons: a hot climb up to the hotel in summer; tricky access by car; somewhat removed from the action. | Rooms from: €290 | 25–27 montée St-Barthélémy, Fourvière | 04–72–56–56–56 | www.villaflorentine.com | 20 rooms, 8 suites | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Lyon is the region’s liveliest arts center. Check the weekly Lyon-Poche ( | www.lyonpoche.com) for cultural events and goings-on at the dozens of discos, bars, and clubs.

The Arts

Biennale d’Art Contemporain (Contemporary Art Biennial).

The Biennale d’Art Contemporain is held in odd-number years during the second half of September. | 04–78–30–50–66 | www.biennaledelyon.com.

Biennale de la Danse (Dance Biennial).

Early fall sees the unforgettable Biennale de la Danse, which takes place in even-number years. | www.labiennaledelyon.com.

Espace Gerson.

The café-theater Espace Gerson presents revues and assorted stand-up shows. | 1 pl. Gerson, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–27–96–99 | www.espacegerson.com.

Fête des Lumières.

On December 6–9, startling lighting creations transform the city into a fantasy for the ever-more-creative Fête des Lumières (Festival of Lights). | www.fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr.

L’Accessoire Café-Théâtre.

Here you can eat and drink while watching a comedy show. | 26 rue de l’Annonciade, Presqu’île | 04–78–27–84–84 | www.accessoire-cafe-theatre.com.

Le Complexe du Rire.

Also known as the Minette Theatre, Le Complexe du Rire is a lively satirical café-theater above Place des Terreaux. | 7 rue des Capucins, Presqu’île | 04–78–27–23–59 | www.complexedurire.com.

Opéra de Lyon.

Center stage for the city’s amazing arts scene, the Opéra de Lyon presents plays, concerts, ballets, and opera from October to June. | 1 pl. de la Comédie, Presqu’île | 04–72–00–45–45 | www.opera-lyon.com.

Nightlife

Bar La Chapelle.

A lovely terrace, multiple bars, and lively dance floors await at gay-friendly Bar La Chapelle. | Impasse de Choulans, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–37–23–95.

Café Cuba.

With interesting tapas, creative cocktails, and Havana cigars until the early hours, Café Cuba sits near the Jean Nouvel opera house. | 19 pl. Tolozan, Presqu’île | 04–78–28–35–77.

Café Sevilla.

This bar is salsa central on the Pentes de la Croix Rousse hillside. | 7 rue Ste-Catherine, Presqu’île | 04–78–30–12–98.

Hot Club.

Live jazz has been played in the stone basement of the Hot Club since 1948, so they are obviously getting it right. | 26 rue Lanterne, Presqu’île | 04–78–39–54–74 | www.hotclubdelyon.org.

La Cave des Voyageurs.

Just below the St-Paul train station, La Cave des Voyageurs is a cozy place to sample some carefully selected wines. | 7 pl. St-Paul–St-Barthélémy, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–28–92–28 | lacavedesvoyageurs.fr.

Le First Revolution.

In the old Les Brotteaux train station, Le First Revolution is a popular disco where more than 600 people can dance the night away. | 13–14 pl. Jules Ferry, Les Brotteaux | 04–78–52–90–72 | www.first-aperiklub.com.

Le Marché Gare.

Live music from salsa to hip-hop rules at Le Marché Gare. | 34 rue Casimir Périer, Presqu’île | 04–72–77–50–25 | www.marchegare.fr.

Smoking Dog.

For the hottest English pub in Lyon, the Smoking Dog is the place to head. You can’t miss the bright red awning out front. | 16 rue Lainerie, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–28–38–27.

SHOPPING

Lyon remains France’s silk-and-textile capital, and all big-name designers have shops here. The 19th-century Passage de l’Argue (between Rue du Président Édouard-Herriot and Rue de la République in the center of town) is lined with traditional shops. The Carré d’Or district has more than 70 luxury ones between place Bellecour and Cordeliers.

Food markets are held Tuesday to Sunday on Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, at Les Halles on Cours Lafayette, on Quai Victor Augagneur, and on Quai St-Antoine. For antiques, wander down Rue Auguste-Comte. For secondhand books try the market along Quai de la Pêcherie near Place Bellecour, held every weekend 10–6.

À Ma Vigne.

A wineshop with an excellent selection is À Ma Vigne. | 18 rue Vaubecour, Presqu’île | 04–78–37–05–29 | amavigne.free.fr.

Antic Wine.

For great wines, tasting sessions, and up-to-the-minute information on local restaurants, don’t miss the prize-winning “flying sommelier,” Georges Dos Santos at Antic Wine. | 18 rue du Bœuf, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–37–08–96 | www.anticwine.com.

Bernachon.

Some say Bernachon is the best chocolaterie in France. It’s a family business that proudly passes the torch from father to son. | 42 cours Franklin-Roosevelt, Les Brotteaux | 04–78–24–37–98 | www.bernachon.com.

Bouillet.

With a stunning selection of artisanal chocolate, Bouillet is paradise for chocoholics. It also has stores at 14 rue des Archers and 3 rue d’Austerlitz. | 15 pl. de la Croix Rousse, Croix Rousse | 04–78–28–90–89 | www.chocolatier-bouillet.com.

Cha Yuan.

The best tea shop in Lyon, Cha Yuan stocks more than 300 varieties from all over the world. You can also buy candies, gourmet goodies, and everything you need to brew the perfect cup of tea. | 7–9 rue des Remparts d’Ainay, Presqu’île | 04–78–41–04–60 | www.cha-yuan.com.

Cité des Antiquaires.

Outside the city center, the Cité des Antiquaires amasses more than 100 antiques dealers Thursday through Sunday. | 117 bd. Stalingrad, Villeurbanne | 04–72–69–00–00 | www.cite-antiquaires.fr.

Diogène.

Smelling of old leather and ancient paper, this shop sells rare and antique books. | 29 rue St-Jean, Vieux Lyon | 04–78–42–29–41 | www.librairiediogene.fr.

La Cave d’à Côté.

La Cave d’à Côté specializes in Côte du Rhône wines. Tucked away on a side street, the shop is distinguished by soaring stone arches. | 7 rue Pleney, Presqu’île | 04–78–28–31–46 | www.cavevinlyon.com.

La Maison des Canuts.

In Lyon’s old silk quartier, this boutique is replete with fine examples of locally made fabrics that you can wear or take home with you. | 10–12 rue d’Ivry, La Croix Rousse | 04–78–28–62–04 | www.maisondescanuts.com | Closed Sun.

L’Atelier de Soierie.

To see how silk prints are made, and perhaps take home a piece of Lyon, visit L’Atelier de Soierie. | 33 rue Romarin, Presqu’île | 04–72–07–97–83 | www.atelierdesoierie.com.

Les Halles de Lyon.

Take a cue from superstar chef Paul Bocuse and shop at the market stalls of Les Halles de Lyon. | 102 cours Lafayette, Part-Dieu | 04–78–62–39–33.

Les Puces du Canal (Flea Market).

A marché aux puces (flea market) takes place here on Thursday and Saturday mornings 7 to noon and on Sunday 7 to 2. | 1 rue du Canal, Villeurbanne | Take Bus 37.

Marché des Artisans (Crafts Market).

Held on Sunday morning is a Marché des Artisans. | Quai Fulchiron, Vieux Lyon.

Marché des Artistes (Artists’ Market).

For new art, try the Marché des Artistes every Sunday morning from 8 to 1. | Quai Romain-Rolland, Vieux Lyon | www.quaidesartistes-lyon.fr.

Nicolas Fafiotte.

Nicolas Fafiotte specializes in wedding dresses and high-end evening wear, but you need an appointment to visit the boutique. | 8 rue du Plat, Presqu’île | 04–72–41–84–79 | www.nicolasfafiotte.com.

Part-Dieu.

One of the biggest shopping centers in Europe is Part-Dieu, where you’ll find more than 250 shops and boutiques. Galeries Lafayette, a major department store, brings Parisian flair to Lyon. | Rue du Dr-Bouchut, Part-Dieu | 04–72–60–60–62 | www.centrecommercial-partdieu.com.

Pignol.

This shop’s pastries, meats, and wines are so good that it has expanded to become a mini-chain, with other locations at 8 place Bellecour, 48 rue Vendôme, and 42 rue de la République. | 17 rue Émile-Zola, Presqu’île | 04–78–92–43–92 | www.pignol.fr.

Printemps.

This is the Lyon outpost of the famous Parisian department store specializing in fashions for men and women. | 42 rue de la République, Presqu’île | 04–72–41–29–29 | www.printemps.com.

Reynon.

This is the place for charcuterie. Look for the wonderful array of sausages hanging in the front window. | 13 rue des Archers, Presqu’île | 04–78–37–39–08 | www.reynonlyon.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Village des Créateurs.

In the quartier Croix Rousse—once the heart of Lyon’s silk trade and the traditional neighborhood for artists and craftspeople—this pleasant pedestrian street is a showplace for 70 talented young designers. Along with fashions for women (often using locally made silk), men, and children, you’ll also find beautiful handmade ceramics, leather goods, and jewelry. | Passage Thiaffait,19 rue René Leynaud, Croix Rousse | 04–78–27–37–21 | www.villagedescreateurs.com.

Voisin.

For the famous chocolate coussins (pillows), check out Voisin. The confections have become so popular that there are now eight shops in Lyon, including one at 11 place Bellecour, right next to the main tourist office. | 28 rue de la République, Presqu’île | 04–78–42–46–24 | www.chocolat-voisin.com.

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Beaujolais Route du Vin | Bourg-en-Bresse | Villars-les-Dombes | Pérouges

North of Lyon along the Saône, the vineyards of Beaujolais are a thrill for any oenophile. In the area around Villefranche, small villages—perhaps comprising a church, a bar, and a boulangerie—pop up here and there out of the rolling vine-covered hillsides. The region’s best wines are all labeled “Grands Crus,” a more complex version of the otherwise light, fruity Beaujolais. Although these get better with age, many Beaujolais wines are drunk nearly fresh off the vine; every third Thursday in November marks the arrival of the Beaujolais Nouveau, a bacchanalian festival that also showcases regional cuisine. North of La Dombes region and east of the Beaujolais wine villages is Bourg-en-Bresse, famous for its marvelous church and a breed of poultry that impassions gourmands; it makes a good base after Lyon. South toward the Rhône, the great river of southern France, is the well-preserved medieval village of Pérouges.

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BEAUJOLAIS ROUTE DU VIN

16 km (10 miles) north of Villefranche-sur-Saône, 49 km (30 miles) north of Lyon.

Not all Beaujolais wine is promoted as vin nouveau (new wine), despite the highly successful marketing campaign that has made Beaujolais Nouveau synonymous with French wine. Wine classed as “Beaujolais Villages” is higher in alcohol and produced from a clearly defined region northwest of Villefranche. Beaujolais is made from one single variety of grape, the gamay noir à jus blanc. However, there are 12 different appellations: Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin à Vent, Régnié, and St-Amour. The Beaujolais Route du Vin (Wine Road), a narrow strip 23 km (14 miles) long, is home to nine of these deluxe Beaujolais wines, also known as grands crus.

Getting Here and Around

For the Beaujolais wine country, most people take the train to the station on the place de la Gare in Villefranche-sur-Saône, 31 km (19 miles) north of Lyon, where trains to smaller towns are available. SNCF trains link Lyon Part-Dieu with Villefranche-sur-Saône (26 mins, €8.05). Autocars du Rhône (Lines 161 and 164) connects Lyon with Villefranche-sur-Saône with multiple connections to surrounding towns.

Visitor Information

Autocars du Rhône. | 08–00–86–98–69 | www.rhone.fr/transports.

Beaujolais Tourist Office. | 96 rue de la Sous-Préfecture, | Villefranche | 04–74–07–27–40 | www.villefranche-beaujolais.fr.

EXPLORING

Château de Corcelles.

The 15th-century Château de Corcelles is noted for its Renaissance galleries, canopied courtyard well, and medieval carvings in its chapel. The guardroom is now an atmospheric tasting cellar. | D9, 3 km (2 miles) east of Villié-Morgon via D9 | Corcelles-en-Beaujolais | 04–74–66–00–24 | www.chateaudecorcelles.fr | Mon.–Sat. 10–noon and 2:30–6:30.

Chénas.

The well-known region of Chénas is favored for its two crus: the robust, velvety, and expensive Moulin à Vent and the fruity and underestimated Chénas. | Chénas.

Chiroubles.

From Villié-Morgon D68 wiggles north through several more wine villages, including Chiroubles, where a rare, light wine that’s best drunk young is produced. | D68 | Chiroubles.

Fleurie.

The wines from the region of Fleurie, “Queen of Beaujolais,” are elegant, fruity, and flowery. | Fleurie.

Juliénas.

The wines of the Juliénas region are sturdy and a deep color; sample them in the cellar of the town church (closed Tuesday and lunchtime), amid bacchanalian surroundings. | Juliénas.

Odenas.

In the southernmost and largest vignoble (vineyard) of the Beaujolais crus is Odenas, producing Brouilly, a soft, fruity wine best consumed young. In the vineyard’s center is towering Mont Brouilly, a hill whose vines produce a tougher, firmer wine classified as Côte de Brouilly. | Odenas.

St-Amour.

The region of St-Amour, west of Juliénas, produces light but firm reds and a limited quantity of whites. | St-Amour.

Villié-Morgon.

From Odenas take D68 via St-Lager to Villié-Morgon, in the heart of the Morgon vineyard; robust wines that age well are produced here. | D68 | Villié-Morgon.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Juliénas.

FRENCH | This simple little restaurant delivers what other, pricier restaurants in town don’t, won’t, or can’t: bistro fare that does honor to traditional Beaujolais cookery. All the all-stars are here: andouillette (tripe sausage), hot sausage, pork with tarragon, and, for dessert, a luscious île flottante (“floating island” meringue). The prix-fixe menu—served at lunch (€26) or dinner (€39)—is one of the region’s best deals. | Average main: €32 | 236 rue d’Anse | Villefranche-sur-Saône | 04–74–09–16–55 | www.restaurant-lejulienas.com | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Bagnols.

HOTEL | A destination in itself, Lady Hamlyn’s dazzlingly elegant castle-hotel is one of the glories of the Beaujolais, as anyone can tell with one glance at the fantastique Grand Salon. The main château’s guest rooms evoke the 18th century, with many covered in historic frescoes done by a Baroque school of artists inspired by the “Grand Fabrique” (Lyon’s famed brocade makers). Lodgings in La Résidence—the converted stables and carriage houses—are rustic-contemporary, with amazing wood-beam trim and calico drapes. More spectacle awaits in the massive Salle des Gardes, which now holds the esteemed gourmet restaurant, agleam with silver candelabras, giant bouquets, and a wall-wide fireplace. Head to the beautiful stone cuvage (wine-pressing room) for the occasional wine tasting. Breakfast is extra. Pros: grandly elegant; panoramic views; nonpareil dining in the massive Salle des Gardes. Cons: a little like living in a museum; very expensive. | Rooms from: €560 | D38, 15 km (9 miles) southwest of Villefranche | Bagnols | 04–74–71–40–00 | www.chateaudebagnols.fr | 21 apartments | Closed Nov.–Mar. | No meals.

BOURG-EN-BRESSE

30 km (18 miles) east of St-Amour on N79, 81 km (49 miles) northeast of Lyon.

Cheerful, flower-festooned Bourg-en-Bresse is esteemed among gastronomes for its chickens— the striking-looking poulet de Bresse, with plump white bodies, bright blue feet, and red combs (adding up to France’s tricolore, or national colors). The town’s southeasternmost district, Brou, is its most interesting and the site of a singular church. This is a good place to stay before or after a trip along the Beaujolais Wine Road.

Getting Here

Baladain connects Lyon-Saint-Exupéry airport with Bourg-en-Bresse four times daily (1 hr, 20 mins; €26). SNCF trains link Lyon Perrache station with Bourg-en-Bresse (1 hr, 22 mins; €12.35).

Visitor Information

Baladain. | 04–74–45–19–29 | www.baladain.fr.

Bourg-en-Bresse Tourist Office. | 6 av. Alsace Lorraine | 04–74–22–49–40 | www.bourgenbressetourisme.fr.

EXPLORING

Église de Brou.

A marvel of the Flamboyant Gothic style, the Église de Brou is no longer in religious use. The church was built between 1513 and 1532 by Margaret of Austria in memory of her husband, Philibert le Beau, Duke of Savoy, and their finely sculpted tombs highlight the rich interior. Outside, a massive restoration of the roof has brought it back to its 16th-century state, with the same gorgeous, multicolor, intricate patterns found throughout Burgundy. The museum in the nearby cloister stands out for its paintings: 16th- and 17th-century Flemish and Dutch artists keep company with 17th- and 18th-century French and Italian masters, 19th-century artists of the Lyon School, Gustave Doré, and contemporary local painters. | 63 bd. de Brou | 04–74–22–83–83 | €7.50 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9–12:30 and 2–6; Oct.–Mar., daily 9–noon and 2–5.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Georges Blanc.

FRENCH | In the village of Vonnas, a simple 19th-century inn with 30 rooms full of antique country furniture doubles as one of the greatest gastronomic addresses in all of Gaul. Poulet de Bresse, truffles, and lobster are just some of the divine dishes featured on the legendary menu created by three-star chef Monsieur Blanc, whose culinary DNA extends back to innkeepers from the French Revolution. He serves his traditional-yet-nouvelle delights in a vast dining room, renovated—overly so, some might say—in a stately manner, replete with Louis Treize–style chairs, fireplace, and floral tapestries. Wine connoisseurs will go weak at the knees at the cellar here, overflowing with 130,000 bottles. The guest rooms range from (relatively) simple to luxurious. A block south you can repair to Blanc’s cheaper, more casual restaurant, L’Ancienne Auberge, most delightfully set in a 1900s Fabrique de Limonade (soda-water plant) and now festooned with antique bicycles and daguerreotypes. | Average main: €90 | Pl. du Marché, 23 km (14 miles) from Bourg-en-Bresse | Vonnas | 04–74–50–90–90 | www.georgesblanc.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon., Tues., and Jan. No lunch Wed., Thurs. | No meals.

L’Auberge Bressane.

FRENCH | Overlooking the town’s wonderful church, this modern, polished dining room is a good match for chef Jean-Pierre Vullin’s cuisine. Frogs’ legs and Bresse chicken with a wild morel–cream sauce are the specialties, but also consider the quenelles de brochet (poached-fish dumplings). Jean-Pierre wanders through the dining room ready for a chat while his staff provides excellent service. Don’t miss the house aperitif, a champagne cocktail with fresh strawberry purée. The wine list has 300 vintages. | Average main: €34 | 166 bd. de Brou | 04–74–22–22–68 | www.aubergebressane.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Tues.

Hôtel de France.

HOTEL | This centrally located and impeccably renovated hotel offers comfortable rooms equipped with the full range of modern amenities. There’s also the adjoining restaurant, Chez Blanc, which has been glamorously taken over by the great chef Georges Blanc. As expected, it is rising to the top of local gastronomical charts. Pros: convenient location for exploring the town; good combination of traditional shell with contemporary infrastructure and equipment; close to Georges Blanc cuisine. Cons: in the midst of the hustle and bustle. | Rooms from: €105 | 19 pl. Bernard | 04–74–23–30–24 | www.bestwestern-hoteldefrance.com | 42 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.

VILLARS-LES-DOMBES

29 km (18 miles) south of Bourg-en-Bresse, 37 km (23 miles) northeast of Lyon.

Villars-les-Dombes is the unofficial capital of La Dombes, an area once covered by a glacier. When the ice retreated, it left a network of lakes and ponds that draws anglers and bird-watchers today.

Parc des Oiseaux.

The 56-acre Parc des Oiseaux, one of Europe’s finest bird sanctuaries, is home-sweet-home to 400 species of birds from five continents. More than 400 aviaries house species from waders to birds of prey, and tropical birds in vivid hues fill the indoor birdhouse. Allow two hours for a visit. | D1083 | 04–74–98–05–54 | www.parc-des-oiseaux.com | €16 | Daily Mar.–mid-Nov. 9:30–dusk.

PÉROUGES

21 km (13 miles) southeast of Villars-les-Dombes, 36 km (22 miles) northeast of Lyon.

With its medieval houses and narrow cobbled streets surrounded by ramparts, wonderfully preserved Pérouges is only 200 yards across. Hand-weavers first brought it prosperity; but the Industrial Revolution meant their downfall, and by the late 19th century the population had dwindled from 1,500 to 12. Now the government has restored the most interesting houses, giving the town a new lease on life. A number of restaurants make Pérouges a good lunch stop.

Getting Here

Park your car by the main gateway, Porte d’En-Haut, alongside the 15th-century fortress-church. Rue du Prince, the town’s main street, leads to the Maison des Princes de Savoie (Palace of the Princes of Savoie), the erstwhile home of the influential Savoie family that once controlled the eastern part of France.

EXPLORING

Musée du Vieux Pérouges (Old Pérouges Museum).

To one side of the Place de la Halle, the Musée du Vieux Pérouges contains local artifacts and a reconstructed weaver’s workshop. The medieval garden is noted for its array of rare medicinal plants. | Pl. du Tilleul | 04–74–61–00–88 | €4 | May–Sept., daily 10–noon and 2–6; Oct. and Apr., weekends 10–noon and 2–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Hostellerie du Vieux Pérouges.

HOTEL | If you want a sense of stepping back into medieval France, tarry a while at “The Old Man of Pérouges,” a gorgeous complex of four ancient stone residences set around an extraordinary corbelled, 14th-century timber-frame house. At the inn’s famous restaurant, regional delights are served up on pewter plates by waitresses in folk costumes, recipes handed down from the days of Charles VII inspire the cook, and everybody partakes of the famous dessert called galette pérugienne à la crème (the “pancake of Pérouges”). The historic vibe lingers in your guest room, thanks to time-burnished antiques, gigantic stone hearths, and glossy wood floors and tables. Rooms in the geranium-decked 15th-century Au St-Georges et Manoir manor are more spacious than—but also nearly twice the cost of—those in Le Pavillon (aka “L’Annexe”). Breakfast is extra. Pros: age-old aura; graceful manor house surroundings; cheerful service. Cons: sans a/c it can be hot during the canicule (literally the “dog days” of summer); some bathrooms lack modern showers. | Rooms from: €216 | Pl. du Tilleul | 04–74–61–00–88 | www.hostelleriedeperouges.com | 26 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.

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Vienne

At Lyon, the Rhône, joined by the Saône, truly comes into its own, plummeting south in search of the Mediterranean. The river’s progress is often spectacular, as steep vineyards conjure up vistas that are more readily associated with the river’s Germanic cousin, the Rhine. All along the way, small-town vintners invite you to sample their wines. Early Roman towns like Vienne and Valence reflect the Rhône’s importance as a trading route. To the west is the rugged, rustic Ardèche département, where time seems to have slowed to a standstill.

VIENNE

27 km (17 miles) south of Lyon via A7.

If you do nothing but head up to this town’s famed Roman Theater and look out over the red-tile roofs of the Rhône Valley, you’ll be happy you made the 20-minute trip from Lyon. Vienne is a historian’s dream, and every street takes you to yet another ancient church, another austere Roman ruin, or another postcard-perfect view of crumbling walls and sloped roofs.

The €6 Billet Intermusée admits you to all local monuments and museums within a 48-hour period. Even better, the €5 Billet-Pass admits you to three museums and the Théâtre Roman. Both are available at the first site that you visit.

Getting Here

SNCF trains link Lyon Perrache or Lyon Part-Dieu stations with Vienne (18–32 mins, €7.40). From Lyon-Saint-Exupéry, the best connection to Vienne is to take the shuttle to Lyon Part-Dieu and the train to Vienne.

Visitor Information

Vienne Tourist Office. | Cours Brillier | 04–74–53–80–30 | www.vienne-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Cité Gallo-Romaine de St-Romain-en-Gal (Gallo-Roman City).

Across the Rhône from the town center is the excavated Cité Gallo-Romaine, covering several acres. Here you can find villas, houses, workshops, public baths, and roads, all built by the Romans. Views of the site can be had from the stunning glass-in museum, which houses temporary exhibitions, mosaics excavated at the site, a boutique, and a pleasantly bright café. | Rte. Départementale 502 | Saint-Romain-en-Gal | 04–74–53–74–01 | www.musees-gallo-romains.com | €4; €6 includes Théâtre Romain and St-André-le-Bas museums | Tues.–Sun. 9–6.

Roman gateway.

The last vestige of the city’s sizable Roman baths is a Roman gateway decorated with delicate friezes. | Rue Chantelouve.

St-André-le-Bas.

Rue des Orfèvres (off Rue de la Charité) is lined with Renaissance facades and distinguished by the church of St-André-le-Bas, once part of a powerful abbey, with beautifully restored 12th-century capitals and a 17th-century wood statue of St. Andrew. It’s best to see the cloisters during the music festival held here and at the cathedral from June through August. | Pl. du jeu de Paume | 04–74–85–18–49 | €2.80; €6 includes Cité Gallo-Romaine and Théâtre Romain museums | Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–1 and 2–6; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Fri. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5, weekends 1:30–5:30.

St-Maurice.

Although religious wars deprived the cathedral of St-Maurice of many of its statues, much of the original decoration is intact; the portals on the 15th-century facade are carved with Old Testament scenes. The cathedral was built between the 12th and 16th centuries, with later additions, such as the splendid 18th-century mausoleum to the right of the altar. A frieze of the zodiac adorns the entrance to the vaulted passage that once led to the cloisters but now opens onto Place St-Paul. | Pl. St-Maurice | 04–74–85–60–28 | Daily 10–6.

St-Pierre.

Beside the Rhône is the church of St-Pierre—note the rectangular 12th-century Romanesque bell tower with its arcaded tiers. The lower church walls date from the sixth century, and there is a collection of Gallo-Roman architectural fragments on display. | Quai Jean-Jaurès.

Temple d’Auguste et de Livie (Temple of Augustus and Livia).

The remains of the Temple d’Auguste et de Livie, accessible via Place St-Paul and Rue Clémentine, probably date in part from Vienne’s earliest Roman settlements (first century BC). The Corinthian columns were walled in during the 11th century, when the temple was used as a church; in 1833 Prosper Mérimée intervened to have the temple restored. | Pl. du Palais.

Fodor’s Choice | Théâtre Romain (Roman Theater).

Measuring 143 yards across, the Théâtre Romain is one of the largest in Gaul. It held 13,000 spectators and is only slightly smaller than Rome’s Theater of Marcellus. Rubble buried Vienne’s theater until 1922; excavation has uncovered 46 rows of seats, some marble flooring, and the frieze on the stage. | 7 rue du Cirque | 04–74–85–39–23 | €2.80; €6, includes Cité Gallo-Romaine and St-André-le-Bas museums | Apr.–Aug., daily 9–1 and 2–6; Sept. and Oct., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–1 and 2–6; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Fri. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5, weekends 1:30–5:30.

WHERE TO EAT

Fodor’s Choice | La Pyramide.

FRENCH | Back when your grandmother’s grandmother was making the grand tour, La Pyramide was le must. Fernand Point had perfected haute cuisine for a generation and became the first superstar chef, teaching a regiment of students who glamorize French dining the world over. Many decades later, La Pyramide has dropped its museum status and now offers contemporary classics by acclaimed Chef Patrick Henriroux, accompanied by a peerless selection of wines featuring local stars from the nearby Côte Rôtie and Condrieu vineyards. Both classical and avant-garde dishes triumph here, from crème soufflée de crabe au croquant d’artichaut (creamy crab soufflé with crunchy artichoke) to the veau de lait aux légumes de la vallée (suckling veal with vegetables from the Drôme Valley). For those who wish to sleep off the feast, there are graceful guest rooms at hand. | Average main: €65 | 14 bd. Fernand-Point | 04–74–53–01–96 | www.lapyramide.com | Closed Tues., Wed., Feb. 17–Mar. 22, Aug. 12–22.

Le Bec Fin.

FRENCH | With its understatedly elegant dining room and an inexpensive weekday menu, this unpretentious enclave opposite the cathedral is a good choice for lunch or dinner. Red meat, seafood, and both fresh- and saltwater fish are well prepared here. Try the turbot cooked with saffron, one of the specialties of the house. | Average main: €26 | 7 pl. St-Maurice | 04–74–85–76–72 | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Jan. No dinner Sun. and Wed.

WHERE TO STAY

Michel Chabran.

HOTEL | This eatery’s traditional stone-and-wood design has taken a strikingly modern turn, replete with floral displays, airy picture windows over the garden, and guest rooms displaying contemporary Danish touches. The hotel’s restaurant is famed for its truffle menu (available December to March), though no one will complain about other delights, such as the foie gras mille-feuille with artichokes. Pros: bright and cheerful; friendly service. Cons: close to main road; touristy; steep staircase. | Rooms from: €175 | 29 av. du 45e Parallèle, 10 km (6 miles) south of Tournon | Pont de l’Isère | 04–75–84–60–09 | www.michelchabran.fr | 11 rooms | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Pic.

HOTEL | Celebrated as a culinary landmark for decades, the Maison Pic is also a feast for the eyes, with vaulted white salons, deep maroon-velvet sofas, 18th-century billiard tables, gigantic Provençal armoires, lovely gardens, and an inviting swimming pool. Some may say the interior design has obliterated all traces of its time-stained past, but few will mind considering how splendid the contemporary look is. The main raison d’étre, however, remains the famed restaurant, which is going stronger than ever. Try the truffle-flavor galettes with asparagus or the loup de mer (sea bass) with caviar to see how the acclaimed Anne-Sophie Pic—great-granddaughter of the founding matriarch and the only female chef in France to have earned three Michelin stars—is continuing the family legacy. Dine in the cardinal-red dining room seated on Louis Seize–style bergères or, in summer, on the shaded terrace; then retire upstairs to the guest rooms, done in a mix of rustic antiques and high-style fabrics. Pros: renowned chef; ravishing decor; sports and leisure activities from golf to flying. Cons: in an ugly industrial area. | Rooms from: €340 | 285 av. Victor Hugo | 04–75–44–15–32 | www.pic-valence.com | 12 rooms, 3 apartments | No meals.

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Grenoble | Chambéry | Annecy | Chamonix–Mont Blanc | Megève | Val Thorens | Méribel | Courchevel | Val d’Isère

In winter some of the world’s best skiing is found in the Alps; in summer chic spas, shimmering lakes, and hilltop trails offer additional delights. The Savoie and Haute-Savoie regions occupy the most impressive territory; Grenoble, in the Dauphiné (so named for the dolphin in the coat of arms of an early noble family), is the gateway to the Alps and the area’s only city, occupying the nexus of highways from Marseille, Valence, Lyon, Geneva, and Turin.

This is the region where Stendhal, the groundbreaking 19th-century novelist, was born and where the great 18th-century philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau lived out his old age. So, in addition to natural splendors, the traveler should also expect worldly pleasures: charming Annecy, set with arcaded lanes and quiet canals in the old quarter around the lovely 16th-century Palais de l’Isle, and old-master treasures on view at Grenoble’s Musée are just some of the civilized enjoyments to be discovered here.

As for le ski, the season for most French resorts runs from December 15 to April 15. At the high-altitude resorts the skiing season lasts until May. In summer the lake resorts, as well as the regions favored by hikers and climbers, come into their own.

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GRENOBLE

104 km (65 miles) southeast of Lyon, 86 km (52 miles) northeast of Valence.

Capital of the Dauphiné region, Grenoble sits at the confluence of the Isère and Drac rivers and lies within three massifs (mountain ranges): La Chartreuse, Le Vercors, and Belledonne. This cosmopolitan city’s skyscrapers bear witness to the fierce local desire to move ahead with the times, and it’s not surprising to find one of France’s most noted universities here. Grenoble’s main claim to fame is as the birthplace of the great French novelist Henri Beyle (1783–1842), better known as Stendhal, author of The Red and the Black and The Charterhouse of Parma. The native Grenoblois, known for their down-home friendliness, are delighted—and generally surprised—if you know of him.

Getting Here

Paris’s Gare de Lyon dispatches more than a dozen trains daily (either direct or via Lyon Part-Dieu) to Grenoble (3 hrs, 3 mins; €84 or 3 hrs, 40 mins; €96 via Lyon). Six TGV trains daily connect Lyon-Saint-Exupéry airport with Grenoble (1 hr, 07 mins; €27). Faure buses connect Lyon-Saint-Exupéry with Grenoble every hour on the half hour (1 hr, 5 mins; €23). Altibus connects Grenoble with 60 ski stations and towns throughout the Alps.

Grenoble’s layout is maddening: your only hope lies in the big, illuminated maps posted throughout town or the free map from the tourist office. The heart of the city forms a crescent around a bend of the Isère, with the train station at the western end and the university all the way at the eastern tip. As it fans out from the river toward the south, the crescent seems to develop a more modern flavor. The hub of the city is Place Victor Hugo, with its flowers, fountains, and cafés, though most sights and nightlife are near the Isère in place St-André, place de Gordes, and place Notre-Dame

Visitor Information

Altibus. | 08–20–32–03–68 | www.altibus.com.

Faure. | 04–76–88–08–80 | www.faurevercors.fr.

Grenoble Tourist Office. | 14 rue de la République | 04–76–42–41–41 | www.grenoble-tourisme.com.

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EXPLORING

Cathédrale Notre-Dame.

Despite its 12th-century exterior, the 19th-century interior of the Cathédrale Notre-Dame is somewhat bland. But don’t miss the adjoining bishop’s house, now a museum on the history of Grenoble; the main treasure is a noted fourth-century baptistery. | Pl. Notre-Dame | Free | Museum Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5.

Centre National d’Art Contemporain.

Contemporary art enthusiasts should also check out the Centre National d’Art Contemporain. Behind the train station in an out-of-the-way district, it is noted for its distinctive warehouse space and avant-garde collection. | 155 cours Berriat | 04–76–21–95–84 | www.magasin-cnac.org | €4 | Wed.–Sun. 2–7.

FAMILY | La Bastille.

Near the center curve of the River Isère is a téléphérique (cable car), starting at Quai St-Stéphane-Jay, which whisks you over the River Isère and up to the hilltop and i re there are splendid views and a good restaurant. Walk back down via the footpath through the Jardin Dauphinoise. | Quai Stéphane Jay | 04–76–44–89–65 | www.bastille-grenoble.fr | €7.50 round-trip | May–Sept., daily; Oct.–Dec. and Feb.–Apr., Tues.–Sun. Hrs vary.

Musée Archéologique St-Laurent.

The church of St-Laurent, near the Musée Dauphinois, has a hauntingly ancient sixth-century crypt—one of the country’s oldest Christian monuments—supported by a row of formidable marble pillars. A tour of the church traces the emergence of Christianity in the Dauphiné. | 2 pl. St-Laurent | 04–76–44–78–68 | www.musee-archeologique-grenoble.fr | Free | Wed.–Mon. 10–5.

Musée Dauphinois.

On the north side of the River Isère is Rue Maurice-Gignoux, lined with gardens, cafés, mansions, and a 17th-century convent that contains the Musée Dauphinois, detailing the history of mountaineering and skiing. The Premiers Alpins section explores the evolution of the Alps and its inhabitants. | 30 rue Maurice-Gignoux | 04–57–58–89–01 | www.musee-dauphinois.fr | Free | Nov.–Apr., Wed.–Mon. 10–6; May–Oct., Wed.–Mon. 10–7.

Musée de Grenoble.

Place de Lavalette—on the south side of the river, where most of Grenoble is concentrated—is where you’ll find the Musée de Grenoble. Founded in 1796, it’s one of France’s oldest museums and was the first to concentrate on modern art (Picasso donated his Femme Lisant in 1921). An addition incorporates the medieval Tour de l’Isle (Island Tower), a Grenoble landmark. The collection includes 4,000 paintings and 5,500 drawings, among them works by Impressionists such as Renoir and Monet, and 20th-century masters like Matisse, Signac, Derain, Vlaminck, Magritte, Ernst, Miró, and Dubuffet. Artists from the Italian Renaissance and Flemish School are also represented. | 5 pl. de Lavalette | 04–76–63–44–44 | www.museedegrenoble.fr | €8 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6:30.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Stendhal.

Established in Stendhal’s grandfather’s house, this museum is a fascinating testament to the eminent author. It’s one of three local landmarks where the his legacy can be explored—the others being his birthplace and the Bibleotèque Municipale, which houses his manuscripts. The English-language “Stendhal Itinerary,” offered by the Grenoble Chamber of Commerce, recaps all the major sites associated with him. | 20 Grande Rue | 04–76–86–52–08 | www.bm-grenoble.fr/1083-musee-stendhal.htm | €5 with audio guide | Tues., Wed., and Fri., 2–6, Sat. 10–noon and 2–6; last Sun. of the month.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Café de la Table Ronde.

FRENCH | The second-oldest café in France, this was a favorite haunt of Henri Beyle (aka Stendhal) as well as the spot where Choderlos de Laclos sought inspiration for (or perhaps a rest from) his 1784 Liaisons Dangereuses. Traditionally known for gatherings of les mordus (literally, “the bitten,” or passionate ones), the café still hosts poetry readings and concerts and serves dinner until nearly midnight. | Average main: €17 | 7 pl. St-André | 04–76–44–51–41 | www.restaurant-tableronde-grenoble.com.

L’Auberge Napoléon.

FRENCH | Frédéric Caby’s culinary haven in a meticulously restored townhouse—once inhabited by Napoléon Bonaparte himself—is where Chef Agnès Chotin, one of France’s top cuisinières (female chefs), puts together the best table in Grenoble. She specializes in dishes unique to the region, ranging from daube de sanglier en aumonière croustillante (wild boar stewed in port wine with lemon crust) to crème de potiron (cream of squash soup); and proposes a foie-gras menu that is nearly as wicked and wonderful as her regional cru chocolate dessert. | Average main: €35 | 7 rue Montorge | 04–76–87–53–64 | www.auberge-napoleon.fr | Closed Sun., early May, and late Aug. No lunch.

Fodor’s Choice | Chavant.

HOTEL | It’s worth the drive to this ivy-covered mansion-hotel, where elegant, spacious guest rooms overlook the meadows and forests that lie beyond the lush garden and pool. It’s also home to a celebrated restaurant, where your rewards include a wonderfully wicked and wholly delicious lobster smothered in black truffles, or—once the watchful eye of the delightful Danièle Chavant sizes you up—perhaps the unforgettable civet de biche en robe d’automne (venison with apples, potatoes, and turnips in a daube sauce). The dining room is closed Saturday lunch, Sunday dinner, and Monday. Pros: lovely village with pretty views and walks; classic cuisine and outstanding wine cellar; tasteful rooms. Cons: not handy to central Grenoble; tricky driving directions. | Rooms from: €165 | Rue Bresson, 8 km (5 miles) south of Grenoble | Bresson | Leave Grenoble on Av. J. Perrot to Av. J. Jaurès, which becomes Rte. D269 | 04–76–25–25–38 | www.chavanthotel.com | 5 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.

Europe.

HOTEL | This modest hotel, the region’s oldest, is in a handy, central location at the edge of old Grenoble. The rooms are adequate, the staff is helpful, and it’s an easy walk from the river. Once you’re ensconced here, you’re set to explore the town. Pros: location at Grenoble’s center; good value; the feel of the old town. Cons: very small rooms; minimal creature comforts, such as tiny towels. | Rooms from: €84 | 22 pl. Grenette | 04–76–46–16–94 | www.hoteleurope.fr | 45 rooms | No meals.

Grand Hotel Grenoble.

HOTEL | There’s not much lacking in this handsome, centrally located hotel. Though modern in every way, the service remains of the old-fashioned type—friendly, efficient, discreet. Rooms are quiet, comfortable, and pleasantly unfussy, with spacious modern bathrooms. The hotel’s location two minutes from the covered market on the Place Grenette,the Musée de Grenoble, and the city’s best restaurants is a big plus. For the price, this hotel can’t be beat. Pros: valet parking; close to the area’s best shopping. Cons: standard rooms can be on the small side. | Rooms from: €99 | 5 rue de la Republique | 04–76–51–22–59 | www.grand-hotel-grenoble.com | 45 rooms | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Look for the monthly Grenoble-Spectacles for a list of events around town.

Barberousse.

Resembling a priate ship, Barberousse is an always-popping rum mill. | 3 rue Bayard | 04–76–51–14–53 | www.barberousse.com.

La Soupe aux Choux.

The intimate La Soupe aux Choux is the prime spot for jazz in Grenoble. | 7 rte. de Lyon | 04–76–87–05–67 | www.jazzalasoupe.fr.

Fodor’s Choice | Les Détours de Babel.

This festival is devoted to contemporary music. The first three weeks of April is prime time for 50 or more concerts of exceptional originality and cultural breadth. | www.detoursdebabel.fr.

CHAMBÉRY

44 km (27 miles) northeast of Voiron, 40 km (25 miles) north of St-Pierre-de-Chartreuse.

As for centuries—when it was the crossroads for merchants from Germany, Italy, and the Middle East—elegant old Chambéry remains the region’s shopping hub. Townspeople congregate for coffee and people-watching on pedestrians-only Place St-Léger.

Visitor Information

Chambéry Tourist Office. | 5 bis, pl. du Palais de Justice | 04–79–33–42–47 | www.chambery-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Château des Ducs de Savoie.

Chambéry’s premier sight, the 14th-century Château des Ducs de Savoie, features one of Europe’s largest carillons. Its Gothic Ste-Chapelle has lovely stained-glass and houses a replica of the Turin Shroud. | Pl. du Château | 04–79–33–42–47 | €6 | Sept.–June, Tues.–Fri. 1:30–6, weekends 10:30–6; July and Aug., Tues.–Sun. 10:30–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Château de Candie.

HOTEL | If you wish to experience la vie Savoyarde in all its pastel-hued glory, head to this towering 14th-century manor on a hill east of Chambéry. Guest rooms range from sweet peasant-luxe to blowout magnificence (the chandeliered nuptial chamber, for one, has a red-velvet canopy bed). Owner Didier Lhostis, an avid antiques collector, filled the rooms with an array of delights, including sculpted wood paneling, honey-gold beams, carved armoires, and glorious regional fabrics. The restaurant delivers more high-style on your plate—it’s famous for wedding feasts, but anyone can delight in treats like rabbit terrine with shallot compote or escalope de fruits de mer with copious seafood arranged in the shape of a lobster. Pros: glorious views over the neighboring Chartreuse monastery and village; interesting antiques abound; personal service from host. Cons: not right in town, so a car required; won’t appeal to minimalists. | Rooms from: €199 | Rue du Bois de Candie, 6 km (4 miles) east of Chambéry | Chambéry-le-Vieux | 04–79–96–63–00 | www.chateaudecandie.com | 23 rooms, 5 suites | No meals.

ANNECY

33 km (20 miles) north of Aix-les-Bains; 137 km (85 miles) east of Lyon; 43 km (27 miles) southwest of Geneva.

Sparkling Annecy is on crystal clear Lac d’Annecy, surrounded by snow-tipped peaks. Though the canals, flower-decked bridges, and cobbled pedestrian streets are filled with shoppers and tourists on market days—Tuesday and Friday—the town is still tranquil.

Does it seem to you that the River Thiou flows backward, that is, out of the lake? You’re right: it drains the lake, feeding the town’s canals. Most of the Vieille Ville (Old Town) is now a pedestrian zone lined with half-timber houses. Here is where the best restaurants are, so you’ll probably be back in the evening.

Getting Here

There’s a direct TGV train connection from Lyon-Saint-Exupéry airport to Annecy (1 hr, 55 mins; €31.90). TGV connects Paris’s Gare de Lyon to Annecy (3 hrs, 42 mins; €80). Annecy Haute-Savoie Airport (www.annecy.aeroport.fr) receives flights from other French and some European destinations.

Crolard buses connect Lyon-Saint-Exupéry airport with Annecy (2 hrs, €34) and the main winter sport stations in the Alps year-round. Tickets must be purchased online or at the airport or bus station.

Visitor Information

Annecy Tourist Office. | Centre Bonlieu,1 rue Jean-Jaurès | 04–50–45–00–33 | www.lac-annecy.com.

Crolard. | 04–50–51–08–51 | www.voyages-crolard.com.

EXPLORING

The funky, asymmetrical, added-on, squished-in buildings of Annecy’s Vieille Ville and the sheer limestone cliffs and jagged peaks of its mountain setting are impossibly picturesque. No matter that the paddleboat vendors try to outcharm each other for your business, you’ll be tempted to stay here and dawdle awhile.

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Menthon-Saint-Bernard.

The exterior of the magnificent Château de Menthon-Saint-Bernard is the stuff of fairy tales (so much so that Walt Disney modeled Sleeping Beauty’s castle on it); the interior is even better. The castle’s medieval rooms—many adorned with tapestries, Romanesque frescoes, Netherlandish sideboards, and heraldic motifs—have been lovingly restored by the owner, who can trace his ancestry directly back to Saint Bernard himself. All in all, this is one of the loveliest dips into the Middle Ages you can make in all of Europe. You can get a good view of the castle by turning onto the Thones road out of Veyrier. | Allée du Château | 04–50–60–12–05 | www.chateau-de-menthon.com | €8.50 | July and Aug., daily noon–6; May, June, and Sept., Fri., weekends and holidays 2–6; Oct.–Apr., Thurs. and weekends 2–4:30.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée-Château d’Annecy.

Crowning the city is one of France’s most gorgeous castles, the medieval Musée-Château d’Annecy. High on a hill opposite the Palais and bristling with stolid towers, the complex is landmarked by the Tour Perrière, which dominates the lake, and the Tour St-Paul, Tour St-Pierre, and Tour de la Reine (the oldest, dating from the 12th century), which overlook the town. All provide storybook views over the town and countryside. Dwellings of several eras line the castle courtyard, one of which contains a small museum on Annecy history and how it was shaped by the Nemeurs and Savoie dynasties. | Pl. du Château | 04–50–33–87–31 | www.musees.agglo-annecy.fr | €5.20, with Palais de l’Ile €7 | June–Sept., daily 10:30–6; Oct.–May, Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5.

Palais de l’Isle (Island Palace).

Meander through the Vieille Ville, starting on the small island in the River Thiou, at the 12th-century Palais de l’Isle, once site of law courts and a prison, now a landmark. Like a stone ship, the small islet perches in midstream, surrounded by cobblestone quays, and is easily one of France’s most photographed sites.

Talloires.

A drive around Lake Annecy—or at least along its eastern shore, which is the most attractive—is a must; set aside a half day for the 40-km (25-mile) trip. Pretty Talloires, on the eastern side, has many charming hotels and restaurants.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

L’Étage.

FRENCH | This small second-floor restaurant serves inexpensive local fare—from cheese and beef fondue to grilled freshwater fish from Lake Annecy, and raclette made from the local Reblochon cheese. Minimal furnishings and plain wooden tables give it a rather austere look, but the lively crowd makes up for it with large doses of true bonhomie. | Average main: €22 | 13 rue du Pâquier, 2nd fl. | 04–50–51–03–28 | www.letageannecy.fr.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel du Palais de l’Isle.

HOTEL | Steps away from the lake, in the heart of Old Annecy, this delightful small hotel directly overlooks one of the most enchanting corners of town (if not Europe). Guest rooms have views of the “prow” of magical Palais de l’Isle, and, without destroying the building’s ancient feel, they have a cheery, contemporary look thanks to their Philippe Starck furnishings. Though the area is pedestrian-only, you can drive up to unload luggage by buzzing the intercom and requesting that they lower the bollard at the entrance to Rue Perrière. Pros: contemporary Starck interiors in a vintage building; Annecy’s most historic location. Cons: all but the largest rooms are somewhat cramped; overpriced breakfast; difficult to access by car. | Rooms from: €128 | 13 rue Perrière | 04–50–45–86–87 | www.palaisannecy.com | 33 rooms | No meals.

L’Impérial Palace.

HOTEL | Across the lake from the town center, Annecy’s leading hotel has spacious, high-ceiling guest rooms in subdued contemporary colors behind its Belle Époque exterior. The best rooms face the public gardens on the lake; if you have one of those rooms, waking up to breakfast on the terrace is a great way to start the day. Fine cuisine is served in the stylish La Voile; while food in Le Jackpot Café (in the casino) is acceptable and less costly. Pros: beautiful location; splendid rooms; superior cuisine in La Voile. Cons: sluggish to haughty service; overpriced; lacks warmth. | Rooms from: €330 | Allée de l’Impérial | 04–50–09–30–00 | www.hotel-imperial-palace.com | 91 rooms, 8 suites | No meals.

CHAMONIX–MONT BLANC

94 km (58 miles) east of Annecy, 83 km (51 miles) southeast of Geneva.

Chamonix is the oldest and biggest of the French winter-sports resort towns and was the site of the first Winter Olympics, held in 1924. As a ski resort, however, it has its limitations. The ski areas are spread out, none is very large, and the lower slopes often suffer from poor snow conditions.

On the other hand, some runs are extremely memorable, such as the 20-km (12-mile) one through the Vallée Blanche or the off-trail area of Les Grands Montets. And the situation is getting better: many lifts have been added, improving access to the slopes as well as shortening lift lines. In summer it’s a great place for hiking, climbing, and enjoying dazzling views. If you’re heading to Italy via the Mont Blanc Tunnel, Chamonix will be your gateway.

Getting Here

TGV trains from Lyon-Saint-Exupéry airport take one hour, 55 minutes (€31.90). There’s also TGV service from Paris’s Gare de Lyon (3 hrs, 42 mins; €80). The required train ride from St-Gervais-Les-Bains to Chamonix is in itself an incredible trip, up the steepest railway in Europe. You’ll feel your body doing strange things to adjust to the pressure change.

Alpybus transfers passengers from Geneva to Chamonix (1 hr, 10 mins; €27).

Visitor Information

Alpybus. | www.alpybus.com.

Chamonix Tourist Office. | 85 pl. du Triangle de l’Amitié | 04–50–53–00–24 | www.chamonix.com.

EXPLORING

Aiguille du Midi.

This 12,619-foot granite peak is topped with a needle-like observation tower, terrace, and restaurants. The world’s highest cable car soars 12,000 feet up, almost to the top (an elevator completes the journey to the summit), providing positively staggering views of 15,700-foot Mont Blanc, Europe’s loftiest peak. Be prepared for a lengthy wait, both going up and coming down—and wear warm clothing. | 35 pl. de la Mer de Glace | Chamonix-Mont-Blanc | 33/04–51–53–22–75 | www.compagniedumontblanc.fr | Cable car €55 round-trip | May–Sept., daily 8–4:45; Oct.–Apr., daily 8–3:45.

Mer de Glace.

Literally, the “sea of ice,” the Mer de Glace glacier can be seen up close from the Train du Montenvers, a cogwheel mountain train that leaves from behind the main train station. At the top end of the track you can mount yet another transportation device—a mini-téléphérique (cable car) that suspends you over the glacier for five minutes. You can also venture into the grotte de glace (ice cave). The hike back down is an easy two-hour ramble. | www.compagniedumontblanc.fr | €29.50 one-way.

Musée Alpin.

Chamonix was little more than a quiet mountain village until a group of Englishmen “discovered” the spot in 1741 and sang its praises far and wide. The town became forever tied to mountaineering when Horace de Saussure offered a reward for the first Mont Blanc ascent in 1760. Learn who took home the prize at the town’s Musée Alpin, which documents the history of mountaineering; exhibits include handmade skis, early sleds, boots, skates, and mementos from every area of Alpine climbing lore. | 89 av. Michel Groz | 04–50–53–25–93 | €5 | Late Dec.–mid-May, Wed.–Mon. 2–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Hameau Albert 1er.

HOTEL | At Chamonix’s most desirable hotel, most of the beautifully furnished guest rooms have private balconies, with many (such as No. 33) offering unsurpassed views of Mont Blanc. Choose between rooms in the original building or Alpine lodge–style accommodations—with touches of contemporary rustic elegance—in the complex known as le Hameau. In the dining room, Pierre Carrier’s cuisine is as memorable as the marvelous mountain vista. Expect perfectly prepared and presented classical fare based on exquisite ingredients—from white truffles in season to impeccable game or seafood delicacies. Pros: dazzling panoramas; superb cuisine; polished and cheerful service. Cons: hard to get a reservation in season; the actual location is less than pristine. | Rooms from: €245 | 119 impasse du Montenvers | 04–50–53–05–09 | www.hameaualbert.fr | 33 rooms, 2 chalets | Closed 2 wks in May, 3 wks in Nov. | No meals.

L’Auberge Croix-Blanche.

HOTEL | If you want to savor a historic Alpine vibe, head to the heart of Chamonix and this intimate inn founded in 1793. Although the accommodations may be modest, they offer good views—there’s nothing quite like relaxing in your tub and looking out the window at Mont Blanc. Ask for one of the newly renovated rooms. There is no restaurant, but right next door is Brasserie de L’M, where reasonably priced Savoie specialties are served. The hotel shuttle bus can take you to the slopes. Pros: top value for Chamonix; unbeatable views; the nearby café is iconic. Cons: few creature comforts. | Rooms from: €140 | 81 rue Vallot | 04–50–53–00–11 | www.bestmontblanc.com | 31 rooms, 4 suites | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Mont-Blanc.

RESORT | In the center of town, this Belle Époque hotel has catered to an A-list clientele since it opened its doors in 1878. It reopened in late 2013 after a top-to-toe renovation, with the clear intention of being the belle of the ball. No argument here. Riffing on the Swiss-chalet theme, the warm, cozy rooms feel contemporary without being impersonal. It’s hard to beat taking a dip in a heated indoor-outdoor pool framed by majestic mountains, but the addition of a superb gourmet restaurant (with a menu created by Guy Martin, chef at Paris’s renowned Grand Véfour) and a gorgeous spa clinch the deal. Pros: near shops and ski lifts; amazing cuisine; lovely pool and spa. Cons: staff is still finding its feet. | Rooms from: €320 | 62 allée du Majestic | 04–50–53–05–64 | www.bestmontblanc.com | 40 rooms | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE

Casino de Chamonix.

Besides games of chance like roulette and blackjack, the Casino de Chamonix has a bar and restaurant. Entrance is free with a passport or driver’s license. | Pl. de Saussure | 04–50–53–07–65.

Chambre Neuf.

Fabled landmark Chambre Neuf is a hot après-ski bar. | 272 av. Michel Croz | 04–50–55–89–81.

MEGÈVE

35 km (22 miles) west of Chamonix, 69 km (43 miles) southeast of Geneva.

The smartest of the Mont Blanc stations, idyllic Alpine Megève is not only a major ski resort but also a chic winter watering hole that draws royalty, celebrities, and fat wallets from all over the world. Because the slopes are comparatively easy, beginners and skiers of only modest ability will find Megève more to their liking than Chamonix: Megève, conveniently, also has one of France’s largest ski schools. In summer the town is a popular spot for golfing and hiking.

Getting Here

Driving is by far the best way to get to Megève. From Grenoble to Megève the journey takes about 2½ hours whether via Annecy or Albertville. SNCF rail connections from Annecy to Megéve (1 hr, 17 mins; €14.60) are routed to Sallanches, 12 km (8 miles) away. Shuttle buses connect Sallanches and Megève (25 mins, €5.50).

Visitor Information

Megève Tourist Office. | Rue Monseigneur Conseil | 04–50–21–27–28 | www.megeve.com.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Flocons de Sel.

FRENCH | Emmanuel Renaut’s three-star Flocons de Sel (flakes of salt), located in Leutaz, brings new meaning to the world of haute cuisine—and, even with the drive out of town, it’s an excellent Megève dining option. The nine-course tasting menu is very expensive; however, it offers priceless taste experiences based on simple but carefully selected ingredients—freshwater crayfish, scallops en croute with sea salt, and roast wood pigeon are just a few of the creatively prepared specialties. The dining room is rustic-simple, allowing the food to take center stage. Surrounded by a series of chalets and much natural splendor, the restaurant now includes six rooms for crawl-away convenience. | Average main: €60 | 1775 rte. du Leutaz, 4 km (2½ miles) southwest of Megève, Leutaz | 04–50–21–49–99 | www.floconsdesel.com | Reservations essential | Closed Tues., Wed., and May and Nov.

Le Chamois.

FRENCH | A fondue specialist, this rustic restaurant offers plenty of Haute Savoyarde authenticity just a few steps from the bottom of the gondola to the ski slopes. A wild mushroom fondue with a Côtes du Rhône Vaqueyras and a flaming herb-and-wild mint Starfu (the house after-dinner digestif) is guaranteed restoration after a day of skiing all over the rolling slopes. | Average main: €24 | 20 rue Monseignor Conseil | 04–50–21–25–01 | Reservations essential | Closed mid-May–mid-June.

Hôtel Mont-Blanc.

HOTEL | Wood predominates, as does artwork collected from all over Europe, in this hotel in the heart of Megève’s pedestrian-only zone. Each wood-paneled guest room has a different theme, from Austrian to English to Haute Savoie, while half have small balconies overlooking the courtyard—ideal for summer breakfasts and evening cocktails. Public areas are comfortable, from the lounge with huge easy chairs to the leather-bound library that doubles as a tearoom and bar. Pros: walking distance from the gondolas up to the ski lifts; shares the clubby feel of the chic part of Megève town. Cons: in the thick of the crowds in high season; erratic service and upkeep. | Rooms from: €310 | Pl. de l’Église | 04–50–21–20–02 | www.hotelmontblanc.com | 38 rooms | Closed mid-Apr.–early-Dec. | No meals.

Les Cîmes.

B&B/INN | This reasonably priced hotel, run by an English couple, offers cozy rooms and a pleasant little restaurant where simple dishes like roast lamb or grilled fish are served. The hotel’s only drawback is its location on a main street entering Megève, which can be a little noisy. Breakfast is included in room rates. Pros: friendly and comfortable; young and gregarious clientele; central location. Cons: cramped spaces; on a busy street. | Rooms from: €85 | 341 av. Charles Feige | 04–50–21–11–13 | www.hotellescimes.info | 8 rooms | Closed mid-Apr.–early Jun. | No meals.

Les Fermes de Marie.

HOTEL | By bringing a number of chalets and hay houses down from the mountains and decorating rooms with old Savoie furniture (including shepherds’ tables, sculptured chests, and credenzas), Jocelyne and Jean-Louis Sibuet have created a luxury hotel with a delightfully rustic feel for both winter and summer getaways. Enjoy such advantages as shuttle bus service to ski lifts and a spa services in a tranquil setting. The hotel restaurant creates fine cuisine based on local products. Pros: ultra-comfortable quarters in authentic Alpine chalets; beautiful taste down to smallest detail; top Megève cuisine. Cons: somewhat isolated within the town; shuttle or car necessary to reach ski lifts. | Rooms from: €300 | Chemin de Riante Colline | 04–50–93–03–10 | www.fermesdemarie.com | 61 rooms, 7 suites, 2 apartments | Closed mid-Apr.–late June | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE

Fodor’s Choice | Jazz Club des Cinq Rues.

Hot both figuratively and literally (you’ll probably end up stripping down to a T-shirt), this popular music bar near the Plaza de l’Église packs in the après-ski party animals as soon as the sun is over the yardarm, which can be as early as 4 or 5 pm in December. | 19 pass. des Cinq Rues | 04–50–89–65–68.

VAL THORENS

131 km (81 miles) south of Chamonix, 153 km (95 miles) south of Geneva.

Skiing is this bustling resort town’s raison d’être, so it’s no surprise that lifts and gondolas fan out in every direction and that many of the trails pass over bridges and barrel through the main square. Just about anywhere in town you can strap on your skis and head downhill.

Getting Here

The best way to get to Val Thorens is by car. There are also shuttle buses that navigate the route from the airports in Lyon and Geneva.

Val Thorens Tourism Office. | Pl. de Caron | 04–70–00–08–08 | www.valthorens.com.

EXPLORING

Val Thorens.

Europe’s highest ski resort, Val Thorens has such a lofty position that you see nothing but snow-covered mountains in every direction. The landscape is so iconic that the three adjoining peaks that grace every bottle of Evian are found here. The season here lasts longer than at resorts down the mountain, often from mid-November to early May.

High-speed lifts of all types transport you up to 68 runs of various ski levels. More than 50 are best suited for intermediate level skiers, but there is also a handful for beginners or experts. Val Thorens is connected to the Trois Vallées ski area, so you have access to more than 600 km (373 miles) of slopes in nearby Les Menuires and elsewhere.

It was first built in the 1970s, so Val Thorens isn’t the loveliest resort in the French Alps. But it buzzes with energy day and night, thanks to a clientele of couples enjoying romantic getaways and groups of friends challenging the slopes and taking advantage of a wild après-ski scene. | D117 | €37 for 1-day Val Thoren pass, €47 for 1-day Trois Vallées pass.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

La Ruade.

FRENCH | The name refers to a horse kicking up its hind legs—a clue that this charming chalet serves hearty fare that could fortify a cowboy for a long ride on the trail. The tightly packed downstairs dining room of La Ruade is centered around an open fire where beef lovers can watch the expert staff grill up a côte de boeuf that’s big enough for two. This is also a great place to sample regional specialties like raclette, in which a half-wheel of cheese is slowly melted onto a pile of perfectly seasoned potatoes. Getting here is half the fun; during the day you can ski to the door on an easy slope, while at night you hike across the snow. The twinkling lights on the edge of the gently sloped roof add a bit of evening magic. | Average main: €18 | Lieu-dit Preyerand | Les Menuires | 04-79–00–63–44.

Atlapura.

HOTEL | You can wave to skiers on the lifts that whiz past your sharply angled window at the Altapura, a ski-in, ski-out property on the edge of Val Thorens. Even the standard rooms feel like suites, with sleekly furnished sitting areas and bathrooms with separate steam showers and deep soaking tubs. Amenities include flat-screen TVs and Mac Minis that let you watch movies for free. A spiral stone staircase takes you downstairs to three restaurants, including the intimate La Laiterie, which specializes in fondue. If you’re with a group, try all five types on offer. Downstairs is a soothing spa, designed to look like a birch forest. Pros: easy access to the slopes; attentive staff; great choice of restaurants. Cons: uphill walk to the center of town. | Rooms from: €292 | Rue du Soleil | 04–80–36–80–36 | en.altapura.fr | 72 rooms, 16 suites | Breakfast.

Koh-I Nor.

HOTEL | Located on the edge of Val Thorens, this five-story hotel uses fur other eye-catching materials in its design, including wooden walls with horizontal planks for a rough-hewn look, creamy stone lining the bathroom’s separate showers and soaking tubs, and furnishings upholstered in rich leather and suede. For modern conveniences, every room has a flat-screen TV with satellite programming, a streamlined desk where you can access speedy Wi-Fi, and in-room electronic safes. You might overlook all of this and head straight for the step-out balcony, where you’re treated to views of the surrounding mountains. The ski room, accessed directly from the slopes, is done up in gleaming white. After a day on the slopes, head to the state-of-the-art exercise room, the pair of indoor pools, the sauna, or the steam room. Pros: chic design; unmatched dining options; head-spinning views. Cons: lots of traffic in the lobby. | Rooms from: €272 | Rue de Gebroulaz | 04–79–31–00–00 | www.hotel-kohinor.com | 63 rooms | Multiple meal plans.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Intersports.

The staffers here are all expert skiers, so they really know their stuff. In minutes they’ll set you up with a helmet, poles, skis, and boots (heated, of course). If you have a problem, there are many other locations in Val Thorens and around the region. | Centre Cial Caron | 04–79–00–06–65 | www.valthorens-intersport.com/en.

SHOPPING

Fodor’s Choice | La Belle en Cuisse.

Hams cured right on the premises hang from the ceiling at this small gourmet shop, where you can sample just about any kind of regional meats and cheeses. Looking for a pot of foie gras, or perhaps a bottle of the locally made liquor called génépi? This is the place. | 1 rue de Caron | 04–79–00–04–30 | www.la-belle-en-cuisse.fr.

MÉRIBEL

111 km (69 miles) south of Chamonix, 178 km (110 miles) south of Geneva.

No building can be taller than the surrounding trees in this mountainside village, so Méribel feels tucked away in the forest. All the architecture must be typical of the region, down to the types of wood used for the graceful balconies and the color of the slate lined up on the gently sloped roofs. The result is one of the most gorgeous resorts in the French Alps.

Getting Here

A car is the most convenient way to get to Méribel, although if you’re not used to driving in snowy conditions you might consider a shuttle from the airport in Lyon and Geneva. During ski season there’s also daily train service to Méribel.

Méribel Tourism Office. | Rte. du Centre | 04–79–08–60–01 | www.meribel.net.

EXPLORING

Méribel.

Méribel’s first ski lift was built in 1938, and within a year construction had started on the accommodations that would turn this into a world-class ski resort. But because it sits inside Vanoise National Park, Méribel never experienced a period of rampant growth. Done up on the traditional Savoyard style, its rows of gorgeous chalets make Méribel feel like a village that’s been here for centuries.

Back in 1992, the Winter Olympics were held in nearby Albertville. Méribel was the site for women’s alpine skiing events, a testament to its world-class slopes. There are 150 km (93 miles) of ski trails, services by more than 50 lifts. There are some gentle green runs, but most of the slopes here are best for intermediate skiers. | D90 | €$48 for 1-day Méribel pass, €57 for 1-day Trois Vallées pass.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Bistrot de l’Orée.

BISTRO | Done up in delectable shades of red and orange, the hip Le Bistrot de l’Orée sits right across from the main slope that runs through the resort of Méribel. On a recent afternoon, a survey of the dining room revealed that nearly everyone in the well-dressed crowd had tottered in wearing their ski boots. On the lower level of the Hôtel L’Orée du Bois, this eatery is truly a family affair: The grandson of the hotel’s original owner runs the kitchen, turning out modern takes on classics like cream of eggplant soup and veal chops flavored with brandy. Don’t miss the baked tartiflette, a combination of potatoes, bacon, onions, and a local cheese called reblochen. | Average main: €20 | Hôtel L’Orée du Bois, Rte. du Belvédère | 04–79–00–31–29 | www.meribel-oree.com.

Le Cèpe.

FRENCH | This place feels warm and welcoming even before you head through the front door, thanks to the rustic lanterns outside pointing the way. The wood-paneled dining room is hushed, as most patrons seem like couples out for a romantic evening. Good choice, as this is food you’ll want to share: mushroom soup for a starter, perhaps, then crusty duck breast with roasted potatoes and a mushroom cream sauce. (If you’re detecting a theme to the dishes, the restaurant’s name refers to porcini mushrooms.) Deserts include blueberry tarts and waffles with salted butter and caramel ice cream. | Average main: €25 | Rte. D Plateau | Méribel Les Allues | 04–79–22–46–08.

Le Savoy.

HOTEL | On the main drag running through Méribel, Le Savoy has a traditional stone and wood facade that leads to a rustic restaurant with wide-plank floors and rough-hewn beams that call to mind an old-time ski lodge. That’s where things take an unexpected turn, with a bar where the furnishings are every bit as brightly colored as the creative cocktails. The guest rooms are completely contemporary, with nice details like bedside alcoves where you can leave the book you’re reading or charge your iPhone. Each room has a private locker in the ski room where your boots are kept nice and toasty. The sauna and steam room are great places to relax after you hit the slopes. Pros: central location; refreshing design; staff that goes the extra mile. Cons: Wi-Fi connection isn’t consistent; some noise from other rooms. | Rooms from: €350 | Pl. du Centre | Méribel Les Allues | 04–79–55–55–50 | www.hotel-savoy-meribel.com | 37 rooms, 5 suites | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE

Le Poste de Secours.

If you’d rather avoid elbow-to-elbow crowds at the slope-side bars, head to Le Poste de Secours. Dispensing with the chalet-chic decor that’s so popular in the region’s watering holes, it has a futuristic feel. In the purple haze, spherical lighting fixtures float like planets while clusters of podlike chairs sit low to the ground. This is the best place in town for classic cocktails, made by bartenders who know their stuff. | Immeuble Les Gentianes | 04–79–00–74–31.

SHOPPING

Farto.

To sample a sensational tartiflette, the Savoie casserole made with potatoes, diced bits of salt pork, and locally produced reblouchon cheese, head to this tiny gourmet shop in Meribel Mottaret. It’s made by hand in the spotless open kitchen, along with piles of diots (sausages) and other delicacies. | Centre Commercial Mottaret | 04–79–04–27–93.

COURCHEVEL

118 km (73 miles) south of Chamonix, 114 km (95 miles) southeast of Geneva.

The gondolas here are covered with ads for Chanel—your first clue that Courchevel caters to an upscale clientele. The gently curving streets are lined with beautiful boutiques offering the latest scarves from Hermes or bags from Louis Vuitton. And visitors take their dining seriously. There are more Michelin-starred restaurants here than in any other ski resort.

Getting Here

Driving is the best way to get to Courchevel. You can also take a taxi from the train station in Méribel or shuttle buses from the airports in Lyon and Geneva.

Courchevel Tourism Office. | Le Coeur de Courchevel | Courchevel | 04–79–08–00–29 | www.courchevel.com.

EXPLORING

Courchevel.

It has a reputation as one of the most luxurious ski resorts in the French Alps, and Courchevel doesn’t do much to dispel that notion. One local restaurant has a plate of risotto with white truffles on its menu going for more than $200. Ski shops glitter like designer boutiques, and ski valets place your skis and poles outside on the snow so you don’t have to carry them.

But it turns out that Courchevel is also one of the area’s most inviting towns. None of the locals seem stiff or snooty. The sommelier in the restaurant written up in all the food magazines is happy to give you a tour of the wine cellar, even when the dining room is crowded. Leave behind your voltage converter, and the front desk staff might just give you one for free.

And the skiing is amazing. There’s a huge variety of slopes that cater to skiers of every skill level. It’s heaven for intermediate skiers, and beginners will find plenty to keep them occupied (including one that has a great view of Courchevel’s postage-stamp airport). The lifts are unusually speedy, keeping lines to a minimum. What’s more, the scenery just doesn’t get better than this in the French Alps. | D91A | Courchevel | €48 for 1-day Courcevel pass, €57 for 1-day Trois Valleés pass.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

L’Azimut.

FRENCH | This is hardly a jack-and-tie kind of place, as the clientele often comes straight from the slopes. The laid-back atmosphere, the congenial staff, and the simple wood tables are among the joys of L’Azimut, where chef François Moureaux’s cooking has earned the place a Michelin star. The dishes are updates of the classics, with some truly amazing flourishes, so look for pan-fried foie gras with passion-fruit foam, roasted breast of chicken with truffle cream, or turbot with a champagne sauce. Don’t pass up the cheese course; sample as many of the local favorites as you like, and they’re all sliced for you tableside. | Average main: €40 | D91A | Courchevel | 04–79–06–25–90 | www.aubergedelapoutre.com/fr/restaurant-azimut.php.

La Cave des Creux.

FRENCH | An amazing view of Mont Blanc is yours at the Cave des Creux, opened in 2013 by a couple of ski instructors on top of what was once a shelter for shepherds and their flocks. (You can still see some of the old cheese cellar and its equipment on the lower level.) On sunny days, the wraparound deck is packed elbow-to-elbow, even when temperatures drop below freezing. It’s hard to resist the stone-trimmed dining room, where huge iron beams, industrial lighting, and a sleek fireplace give the place a modern feel. The menu is also forward-thinking—consider the pumpkin soup with foie gras shavings as a starter, then move on to lamb chops with wild garlic. Organic wines from the region make it hard to say no to a glass or two before heading back to the slopes. | Average main: €30 | Courcehvel 1850 | Courchevel | 04–79–06–76–14 | www.cavedescreux-courchevel.com.

Hotel Annapurna.

HOTEL | On the edge of the slopes, the ski-in, ski-out Hotel Annapurna could hardly have a better location if you plan on spending your days pounding the powder. The open and airy ski room and the vast dining room both have huge windows where you can take stock of the ski conditions. The hotel is owned by the family of Olympic skier Alexis Pinturault, whose photo graces the door to every room. Look for lots of natural wood and balconies with stunning views. There’s a heated indoor pool with views of the mountains, a spa with two saunas and a steam bath, and a fitness center. Pros: slope-side location; free shuttle service; speedy Internet access. Cons: decor is a bit old-fashioned. | Rooms from: €705 | Rte. de l’Altiport | Courchevel | 04–79–08–04–60 | www.annapurna-courchevel.com | 57 rooms, 13 suites | Breakfast.

VAL D’ISÈRE

153 km (95 miles) southeast of Chamonix, 220 km (136 miles) southeast of Geneva.

Men’s downhill racing was held in Val d’Isère during the 1992 Winter Olympics, and since then it’s been a must-see for skiers wanting to challenge the impossibly steep slope called Bellevarde. But it has an incredible array of slopes, including an impressive number of easy green slopes at the top of the mountain.

Getting Here

To get to Val d’Isère, a car or taxi is your best option from the train station in Méribel or the airports in Lyon and Geneva.

Val d’Isère Tourism Office. | Pl. Jacques Mouflier | Val d’Isère | 04–79–06–06–60 | www.valdisere.com.

EXPLORING

Val d’Isère.

One of the joys of Val d’Isère is that the easy slopes aren’t concentrated at the bottom of the mountains. Beginners can take the gondola to the top and ski for hours at the upper altitudes. Val d’Isère and neighboring Tinges form the Espace Killy, a massive ski area with 154 runs of various ski levels extending for a total of 300 km (186 miles).

Wish the ski season didn’t have to end? Val d’Isère’s Pissaillas Glacier and Tignes’s Grand Motte Clacier both offer summertime skiing. And there are plenty of other activities in both resorts during warmer weather. | D902 | Val d’Isère | €36 for 1-day Val d’Isère pass, €50 for 1-day Espace Killy pass.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

La Fruitière.

FRENCH | Don’t be fooled by the milky-white paint peeling from the rafters, the exposed zinc pipes, or the green tiles that look like they’ve been here for centuries—La Fruitière isn’t really an old dairy, as the name suggests, but a newly built eatery that draws on the region’s most hallowed traditions. Remarkably efficient waiters clad in blue coveralls strongly suggest regional specialties like the chestnut soup (which they serve with a flourish) or the breast of veal accompanied by endive and house-cured ham. La Fruitière is located on one of the mountain’s more manageable slopes, so getting here is no trouble. And you might not want to leave, as next door is the local branch of the famous après-ski hangout La Folie Douce. | Average main: €35 | Top of La Daille gondola | Val d’Isère | 04–79–06–07–17 | www.lafoliedouce.com/val-disere/en/la-fruitiere-en.html.

Le Blizzard.

HOTEL | A pair of fireplaces flanks the double doors leading into Le Blizzard, and they’ll warm you right up even on the most blustery evenings. Up a flight of stairs are a delightfully low-key lounge area and a relaxed restaurant with unexpected views of the ski slopes. Also on this level is a soothing spa, an exercise room, and an outdoor pool. The guest rooms, set in a handsome building with towering stone columns and wooden balconies, have hints of chalet style in details like the pine trees carved into the closet doors. Modern touches include flat-screen TVs, Wi-Fi access, and whimsical lighting fixtures. The ski room is just off the lobby, so it’s handy for quick trips to the nearby slopes. Pros: center-of-it-all location; inviting bar and lounge; friendly staff. Cons: elevator is small and slow. | Rooms from: €360 | Ave. Olympique | Val d’Isère | 04–79–06–02–07 | www.hotelblizzard.com/en | 88 rooms | Breakfast.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Provence

Arles and the Camargue

The Alpilles

Avignon and the Vaucluse

Aix-en-Provence and the Mediterranean Coast

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner | Provence’s Markets

Updated by Nancy Heslin

As you approach Provence there’s a magical moment when you finally leave the north behind: cypresses and red-tile roofs appear; you hear the screech of cicadas and breathe the scent of wild thyme and lavender. Along the highway, oleanders bloom against a backdrop of austere, sun-filled landscapes, the very same that inspired the Postimpressionists.

Ever since Peter Mayle abandoned the London fog and described with sensual relish a life of unbuttoned collars and espadrilles in his best-selling A Year in Provence, the world has beaten a path here. Now Parisians are heard in the local marketplaces passing the word on the best free-range rabbit and the lowest price on a five-bedroom mas (a traditional Provençal farmhouse). This bon-chic-bon-genre city crowd languishes stylishly at Provence’s country inns and restaurants. Ask them, and they’ll agree: when Princess Caroline of Monaco moved to St-Rémy, Provence became the new Côte d’Azur.

But chichi Provence hasn’t eclipsed idyllic Provence, and it’s still possible to melt into a Monday-morning market crowd, where blue-aproned paysannes scoop fistfuls of mesclun into willow baskets, matron-connoisseurs paw through bins containing the first Cavaillon asparagus, and a knot of pépés in workers’ blues takes a pétanque break.

Relax, join them—and plan to stick around awhile. There are plenty of sights to see: great Roman ruins; the pristine Romanesque abbeys of Senanque and de Montmajour; weathered mas; the monolithic Papal Palace in old Avignon; the narrow streets in Arles immortalized on canvas by Van Gogh. Check out all these treasures but remember that highlights of any trip here are those hours spent dawdling at a sidewalk café, wandering aimlessly down narrow cobbled alleyways, and, after a three-hour lunch, taking a quick snooze in the cool shade of a 500-year-old olive tree. Allow yourself time to feel the rhythm of modern Provençal life, to listen to the pulsing breet of the insects, smell the parfum of a tiny country path, and feel the night air on your skin.

TOP REASONS TO GO

See Vincent van Gogh’s Arles: Ever since the fiery Dutchman immortalized Arles in all its chromatic drama, this town has had a starring role in museums around the world.

Experience unplugged Provence: The marshy landscapes of the Camargue will swamp you with their strange beauty, white horses, pink flamingoes, and black bulls.

Get hip-deep in lavender: Tour the Lavender Route from the Abbaye de Sénanque (near Gordes) to a wide, blue-purple swath that ranges across the Drôme and the Vaucluse.

Go fishing for Marseille’s best bouillabaisse: The version at Chez Fonfon will make your taste buds stand up and sing “La Marseillaise.”

Tour Cézanne Country: Views of Mont Ste-Victoire, rising near the artist’s hometown of Aix-en-Provence, may inspire you to pick up a brush.

GETTING ORIENTED

What many visitors remember best about Provence is the light. The vibrant sun here bathes vineyards, olive groves, fields full of lavender, and tall stands of sunflowers with an intensity that captivated Cézanne and Van Gogh. Bordering the Mediterranean and flanked by the Alps and the Rhône River, Provence attracts hordes of visitors. Fortunately, many of them are siphoned off to the resorts along the Riviera, which is part of Provence but whose jet-set image doesn’t fit in with the tranquil charm of the rest of the region.

WHAT’S WHERE

Arles and the Camargue. Still haunted by the genius of Van Gogh, Arles remains fiercely Provençal and is famed for its folklore events. A bus ride away and bracketed by the towns of Aigues-Mortes and Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the vast Camargue nature park is one of France’s most remarkable terrains, complete with cowboys, horseback rides, and exclusive mas (converted farmhouse) hotels.

Avignon and the Vaucluse. This area is the heart of Provençal delights. Presided over by its medieval Palais des Papes, Avignon is an ideal gateway for exploring the Roman ruins at Pont du Gard. About 16 km (10 miles) east of Avignon is the Sorgue Valley, where everybody goes “flea”-ing in the famous antiques market at L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Just east are the Luberon’s hilltop villages (made chic by Peter Mayle), such as picture-perfect Gordes. South lies Roussillon, set like a ruby in its red cliffs.

Aix-en-Provence and the Mediterranean Coast. For one day, join all those fashionable folk for whom café-sitting, people-watching, and boutique-shopping are a way of life in Aix-en-Provence. Enjoy the elegant 18th-century streets, then channel the spirit of Cézanne by visiting his studio and nearby Mont Ste-Victoire, one of his favorite subjects. Head south to become a Calanques castaway before diving into Marseille, which ranks among France’s most vibrant and colorful cities.

The Alpilles. These spiky mountains guard treasures like Les Baux-de-Provence, where the lively tangle of medieval streets and the atmospheric ville morte (dead town) are equally bewitching. Nearby is ritzy St-Rémy-de-Provence, Van Gogh’s famous retreat.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

Spring and fall are the best months to experience the dazzling light, rugged rocky countryside, and fruited vineyards of Provence. Though the lavender fields show peak color in July, summertime here is beastly hot; worse, it’s always crowded on the beaches and connecting roads. In winter (from November through February, even into March) you’ll find many tourist services closed, including hotels and restaurants. Much of the terrace life is driven indoors by rain and wind, but around Easter the plane trees begin to leaf out and the café tables begin to sprout once more.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

The unpredictable charm of Provence catches the imagination and requires long, thoughtful savoring—like a fine wine over a delicious meal. Come here in any season except winter, when most of the hotels close and all of Provence seems to be on holiday. The area’s best in late spring, summer, or early fall, when the temperature rises and you can eat outdoors after sunset. The best place to start your trip is in Avignon. It’s on a fast train link from Paris, but even if you arrive in record time, it’s at exactly this moment that you need to slow down. As you step off the train and are confronted with all that magnificent architecture and art, breathe deeply. Provence is about lazy afternoons and spending “just one more day,” and Avignon is a good place to have a practice run: it’s cosmopolitan enough to keep the most energetic visitor occupied, while old and wise enough to teach the value of time.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Provence is home to one of France’s largest airports (Aéroport de Marseille Provence), plus it has high-speed TGV train service from Paris. Departing from the Gare de Lyon, you can get to Nîmes, Aix-en-Provence, Marseille, or Avignon in three hours or less; you can even be whisk to Provence directly on arrival at Paris’s Charles de Gaulle airport. Once in the region, well-organized public transport makes most towns accessible by train or bus. It’s best to plan on combining the two—often smaller Provençal communities won’t have their own train station, but rather a local bus connection to one in the nearest town over. Driving is also a good option, although for the first-time visitor negotiating the highways in Provence can be a scary experience. They’re fast … regardless of the speed limit. Off the highway, however, on the national roads, or the district roads, driving can be the best and most relaxing way to get around.

Air Travel

Marseille has the fifth busiest airport in France, the Aéroport de Marseille Provence in Marignane (08–20–81–14–14 | www.marseille.aeroport.fr). Located about 20 km (12 miles) northwest of the city center, it receives flights from both major airlines—including Air France (www.airfrance.com)—and a broad range of budget carriers; airport shuttle buses regularly run to Marseille (€8) and Aix (€7.80). The smaller Aéroport de Nîmes-Alès-Camargue-Cévennes (04–66–70–49–49 | www.aeroport-nimes.fr), 12 km (7.5 miles) south of Nîmes, is served by Ryanair (www.ryanair.com), which operates multiple weekly flights from Brussels, London, and Liverpool. A shuttle bus into Nîmes costs €5; if you’re bound for Arles, cab fare for the 20-km (12-mile) trip is about €35.

Bus Travel

Buses, often working in tandem with trains, can get you almost anywhere you want to go. The official websites for individual communities (and even some attractions) typically include detailed bus-access information; a quick email or phone call will confirm it. Schedules and trajets (journeys) can also be found on the websites of the region’s primary bus companies. Cartreize (08–10–00–13–26 | www.lepilote.com) controls bus routes to and from the Bouches du Rhone; Lignes Express Régionales—the LER—(08–21–20–22–03 | www.info-ler.fr) operates between main hubs like Marseille, Aix, Arles, and Avignon, with some routes servicing smaller villages; while buses around the Nîmes area are the domain of Edgard Transport (08–10–33–42–73 | www.edgard-transport.fr).

Car Travel

The A6–A7 toll road from Paris, known as the Autoroute du Soleil—the Highway of the Sun—takes you straight to Provence, dividing at Orange, 659 km (412 miles) from the capital; the trip can be done in a fast six or so hours. After Orange, the A7 continues southeast to Marseille, on the coast; the A9 heads west to Nîmes, while the A8 carries on to Aix-en-Provence and then to the Côte d’Azur and Italy.

Train Travel

The Marseille-St-Charles station—serving all parts of France, including Paris, Strasbourg, and Bordeaux—is at the northern end of Marseille’s city center. Regional trains to Aix-en-Provence (40 mins), Arles (1 hr), Nîmes (1 hr, 40 mins), Avignon (1 hr, 50 mins), and other destinations run from there as well. Avignon itself is a major rail crossroads and a springboard for the Vaucluse. From Paris, you can make it to Avignon in 2 hours and 40 minutes aboard daily high-speed trains on the TGV Méditerranée line; these pull into a dedicated station a few miles southwest of the city. TGVs then connect with Nîmes (18 mins), Marseille (35 mins), and Nice (3 hrs). Many other locales within Provence can be reached by rail from Gare Avignon Centre, including Arles (20 mins) and Aix-en-Provence (90 mins with connection).

Contacts

SNCF. | 36–35 €0.34 per min | www.voyages-sncf.com.

TGV. | 36–35 €0.34 per min | www.tgv.com.

RESTAURANTS

You’ll eat late in the south, rarely before 1 for lunch, usually around 8 for dinner. In summer, shops and museums may shut down, after their morning hours, from noon until 3 or even 4 pm, as much to accommodate lazy lunches as for the crowds taking sun on the beach. But a late lunch works nicely with a late breakfast—and that’s another southern luxury. As morning here is the coolest part of the day and the light is at its sweetest, hotels and cafés of every class take pains to make breakfast memorable and whenever possible serve it outdoors. Complete with tables in the garden with sunny-print cloths and a nosegay of flowers, accompanied by birdsong, it’s one of the three loveliest meals of the day.

HOTELS

Accommodations in Provence range from luxurious villas to elegantly converted mas to modest city-center hotels. Reservations are essential for much of the year. Provence is more about charming bed-and-breakfasts and lovely expensive hideaways than big hotels, so space is at a premium—especially in summer. Book as far in advance as possible for high season (return guests often reserve next year’s stay at the end of the current year’s visit); even in low season, you should call ahead because many hotels close for the winter. Assume that all hotel rooms have TV, telephones, and private bath, unless otherwise noted. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Comité Départemental du Tourisme des Bouches-du-Rhône. | 13 rue de Brignoles, | Marseille | 04–91–13–84–13 | www.visitprovence.com.

L’ADT Vaucluse Tourisme. | 12 rue Collège de la Croix, | Avignon | 04–90–80–47–00 | www.provenceguide.com.

PROVENCE’S MARKETS

Provence is market heaven. There are all kinds—food, collectibles, antiques, clothing—and there is a (often famous) street market in every town. If you don’t buy something, you’re missing out on a truly Provençal experience.

There are plenty of châteaux, museums, and Roman ruins to tour in Provence. And yet there seem to be even more rows of sheltered booths brimming with intriguing goods, more tents draped with pink-and-yellow Souleiado fabric, more stalls displaying a jumble of handwoven baskets. Fight a brief inner battle, but most travelers know that they will yield yet again to the delight of puttering among village vendors. Markets are a daily occurrence here, passed from village to town—Sunday is for Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Wednesday for St-Rémy, Saturday for Arles. The market is a deeply ingrained part of Provençal life, and each one reflects something organic and intrinsic to the town itself. Remember that you’ll want to pick the wheat from the chaff, giving wide clearance to products such as bubble-gum-scented olive-oil soaps, pottery mugs with good-luck cicadas, sunflower coasters, and Day-Glo versions of Van Goghs.

Feats of Clay

Many prize the miniature figures called santons, or “little saints.” When the French Revolution cracked down on Christmas reenactments, a crafty Marseillais decided to sculpt tiny terra-cotta figures that soon upstaged their human counterparts. These figurines are now sold year-round. In crèches that resemble Provençal villages more than Bethlehem, look for tiny lavender-cutters, goat herders, and folk dancers.

Arles and the Camargue

Every Saturday morning along the boulevard des Lices (which joins boulevard Clemenceau) Arles hosts one of the top textile markets in the area. Here you’ll find the famous boutis (quilted cotton throws), textured fabrics, and an endless array of brightly dyed and embroidered tablecloths, children’s clothes, and Arlesian costumes. On the first Wednesday of every month, the same boulevard converts into an antiques and collectibles market—all the more interesting since wares are mostly regional.

Avignon and the Vaucluse

St-Rémy-de-Provence stages one of the most popular markets in all of France each Wednesday morning. The place de la Republic and the narrow town streets overflow with fresh produce, olives, tapenade by the vat, and a variety of other delicacies. In the Vaucluse area, you can find anything made from lavender, including soaps, oils, creams, perfumes, and little sachets filled with dried lavender to keep your clothes—and your suitcase—fresh.

Marseille

The main shopping drag lies between La Canebière and the Préfecture, but Marseille offers up a large city-wide selection of quirky shops, urban boutiques, and brand-name stores. There are more than a dozen street markets, too—the most renowned being the fish market in the port. Probably the most famous item sold here, however, is the Savon de Marseille (Marseille soap), which can be bought all over the city. Some of the prettiest cubed and scented soap blocks are found inside La Compagnie de Provence at 1 rue Caisserie.

Aix-en-Provence

Aix has some delightful street markets—the tastiest of which is the daily food one on Place Richelème, where you’ll find rare delicacies side by side with long links of spicy sausages, vats of olives and oils from the Pays d’Aix (Aix region), and bags of the distinctive, boat-shape navette cookies. Just up the street in Place Verdun a very good all-purpose market sets up on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings. High-end stores rival those on the more famous retail strips in France.

The Sorgue Valley

The much-loved antiques market that virtually takes over little L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue every Sunday morning is the primo place to go trolling for time-burnished treasure. For a true antiques extravaganza, come during the town’s biannual Grand Déballage—literally the “Great Unpacking.” Held around Easter and again in mid-August, it brings together hundreds of merchants for four full days of bartering and bargain hunting.

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Arles | The Camargue | Aigues-Mortes | Nîmes

Sitting on the banks of the Rhône River, with a Vieille Ville where time seems to have stood still since 1888—the year Vincent van Gogh immortalized the city in his paintings—Arles remains both a vibrant example of Provençal culture and the gateway to the Camargue, a wild and marshy region that extends south to the Mediterranean. Arles, in fact, once outshone Marseille as the major port of the area before sea gave way to sand. Today it competes with nearby Nîmes for the title of “Rome of France,” thanks to its magnificent Roman theater and Arènes (amphitheater). Just west and south of these landmarks, the Camargue is a vast watery plain formed by the sprawling Rhône delta and extending over 800 square km (309 square miles)—its landscape remains one of the most extraordinary in France.

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ARLES

36 km (22 miles) southwest of Avignon, 31 km (19 miles) east of Nîmes, 92 km (57 miles) northwest of Marseille, 720 km (430 miles) south of Paris.

If you were obliged to choose just one city to visit in Provence, Arles would give Avignon and Aix a run for their money. It’s too chic to become museumlike, yet the shuttered townhouses and graceful squares of its Vieille Ville are still lovely enough to inspire modern-day Van Goghs, and its wealth of classical antiquities is undeniably impressive. A Greek colony since the 6th century BC, little Arles took a giant step forward when Julius Caesar defeated Marseille in the 1st century BC. The emperor-to-be designated Arles a Roman colony and lavished funds and engineering know-how on it. The settlement became an international crossroads by sea and land and a market to the world, with goods from Africa, Arabia, and the Far East. The emperor Constantine himself moved to Arles and brought Christianity with him.

Getting Here

High-speed TGV rail service from Paris is available daily; trains also connect Arles’s Gare Centrale with Avignon Centre (20 mins), Nîmes (25 mins), Marseille (1 hr), and Aix-en-Provence (2 hrs with connection). Monday through Saturday, buses from the gare routière (opposite the train station) run multiple times daily between Nîmes and Arles (1 hr), and between Avignon and Arles (1 hr); several buses per day also link Arles with Aix-en-Provence (90 mins).

Visitor Information

Arles Tourist Office. | Esplanade Charles de Gaulle, Bd. des Lices | 04–90–18–41–20 | www.arlestourisme.com.

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EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | Arènes (Arena).

Rivaled only by the even better-preserved version in Nîmes, the arena dominating old Arles was built in the first century AD to seat 21,000 people, with large tunnels through which wild beasts were forced to run into the center. Before being plundered in the Middle Ages, the structure had three stories of 60 arcades each; the four medieval towers are testimony to a transformation from classical sports arena to feudal fortification. Complete restoration began in 1825, and today the arena holds nearly as many people as it once did. It’s primarily a venue for the traditional spectacle of the corridas (bullfights), which take place annually during the féria pascale, or Easter festival. The less bloodthirsty local variant Course Carmarguaise (in which the bull is not killed) also takes place here. Festivities start with the Fête des Gardians on May 1, when the Queen of Arles is crowned, and culminate in early July with the award of the Cocarde d’Or (Golden Rosette) to the most successful raseteur. Tickets are usually available, but for the more popular fights, it is advisable to book ahead. | 24 bis, Rond Point des Arènes | 04–90–18–41–20, 08–91–70–03–70 Courses Carmarguaise | www.arlestourisme.com | €8.50 joint ticket with Théâtre Antique | May–Sept., daily 9–7; Oct., daily 9–6; Nov.–Feb., daily 10–5; Mar.–Apr., daily 9–6.

Église St-Trophime.

Classed as a world treasure by UNESCO, this extraordinary Romanesque church alone would justify a visit to Arles. The side aisles date from the 11th century and the nave from the 12th; the church’s austere symmetry and ancient artworks (including a stunning early Christian sarcophagus) are fascinating. But it’s the church’s superbly preserved Romanesque sculpture on the 12th-century portal—the recently renovated entry facade—that earns international respect. Particularly remarkable is the frieze of the Last Judgment, with souls being dragged off to Hell in chains or, on the contrary, being lovingly delivered into the hands of the saints. Christ is flanked by his chroniclers, the evangelists: the eagle (John), the bull (Luke), the angel (Matthew), and the lion (Mark). | Pl. de la République | www.arlestourisme.com | Free | Not open to public between noon and 2 pm.

Fodor’s Choice | Espace Van Gogh.

A strikingly resonant site, this was the hospital to which the tortured artist repaired after cutting off his earlobe. Its courtyard has been impeccably restored and landscaped to match one of Van Gogh’s paintings. The cloistered grounds have become something of a shrine for visitors, and there is a photo plaque comparing the renovation to some of the master’s paintings, including Le Jardin de la Maison de Santé. The exhibition hall is open for temporary exhibitions; the garden is always on view. TIP Also check out shows of contemporary art inspired by the artist at the beautifully restored Fondation Vincent Van Gogh, 5 Place Honoré Clair. | Pl. Dr. Félix Rey | 04–90–18–41–20 | www.arlestourisme.com | Free.

OFF THE BEATEN PATH: Les Alyscamps.

Though the romantically melancholic Roman cemetery lies 1 km (½ mile) southeast of the Vieille Ville, it’s worth the hike—certainly Van Gogh thought so, as several of his famous canvases prove. This long necropolis amassed the remains of the dead from antiquity to the Middle Ages. Greek, Roman, and Christian tombs line the shady road that was once the main entry to Arles, the Aurelian Way. The finest of the stone coffins have been plundered over the centuries, thus no single work of surpassing beauty remains here (they’re in the Musée Départmental Arles). Next to the ruins rise the Romanesque tower and ruined church of St. Honorat, where (legend has it) St. Trophimus fell to his knees when God spoke to him. | Allée des Sarcophages | 04–90–49–36–74 | www.arlestourisme.com | €3.50 | May–Sept., daily 9–7; Oct., daily 9–noon and 2–6; Nov.–Feb., daily 10–noon and 2–5; Mar. and Apr., daily 9–noon and 2–6.

Musée Départemental Arles Antiques (Museum of Ancient Arles).

Though it’s a hike from the center, this state-of-the-art museum is a good place to set the tone and context for your exploration of Arles. You can learn all about the city in its Roman heyday, from the development of its monuments to details of daily life. The bold, modern triangular structure (designed by Henri Ciriani) lies on the site of an enormous Roman cirque (chariot-racing stadium), and the permanent collection includes jewelry, mosaics, town plans, and carved fourth-century sarcophagi. TIP A new wing features a rare intact barge dating from AD 50 and a fascinating display illustrating how the boat was meticulously dredged from the nearby Rhone. The quantity of these treasures gives an idea of the extent of Arles’s importance. Seven superb floor mosaics can be viewed from an elevated platform, and you exit via a hall packed tight with magnificently detailed paleo-Christian sarcophagi. As you leave you will see the belt of St-Césaire, the last bishop of Arles, who died in AD 542 when the countryside was overwhelmed by the Franks and the Roman era met its end. Ask for an English-language guidebook. | Ave de la 1ère Division Française Libre, Presqu’île du Cirque Romain | 04–13–31–51–03 | www.arles-antique.cg13.fr | €8, free 1st Sun. of month | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

Musée Réattu.

Three rooms of this museum, housed in a Knights of Malta priory dating to the 15th century, are dedicated to local painter Jacques Réattu. But the standouts are works by Dufy, Gauguin, and 57 drawings (and two paintings) done by Picasso in 1971—including one delightfully tongue-in-cheek depiction of noted muse and writer Lee Miller in full Arles dress. They were donated to Arles by Picasso himself, to thank the town for amusing him with bullfights. | 10 rue Grand Prieuré | 04–90–49–37–58 | www.museereattu.arles.fr | €8 | Nov.–Feb., daily 10–5; Mar.–Oct., daily 10–6.

In the Footsteps of Van Gogh

It was the light that lured Vincent van Gogh to Arles. For a man raised under the gray skies of the Netherlands and the gaslight pall of Paris, Provence’s clean, clear sun was a revelation. In his last years he turned his frenzied efforts toward capturing the “… golden tones of every hue: green gold, yellow gold, pink gold, bronze or copper colored gold, and even from the yellow of lemons to the matte, lusterless yellow of threshed grain.”

Arles, however, was not drawn to Van Gogh. Though it exerts every effort today to make up for this misjudgment, Arles treated the artist very badly during the time he passed here near the end of his life—a time when his creativity, productivity, and madness all reached a climax.

Van Gogh began working in Arles in 1888 with an intensity and tempestuousness that first drew, then drove away, his companion Paul Gauguin, with whom he had dreamed of founding an artists’ colony. Astonishingly productive—he applied a pigment-loaded palette knife to some 200 canvases in that year alone—he nonetheless lived in intense isolation, counting his sous, and writing his visions in lengthy letters to his long-suffering, infinitely patient brother Theo. Often drinking heavily, Vincent alienated his neighbors, driving them to distraction and ultimately goading them to action. The people of Arles circulated a petition to have him evicted just a year after he arrived, a shock that left him more and more at a loss to cope with life and led to his eventual self-commitment in an asylum in nearby St-Rémy.

The houses he lived in are no longer standing, though many of his subjects remain as he saw them (or are restored to a similar condition). Happily, the city has provided helpful markers and a numbered itinerary to guide you between landmarks. You can stand on the Place Lamartine, where his famous Maison Jaune stood until it was destroyed by World War II bombs. Starry Night may have been painted from the quai du Rhône just off place Lamartine, though another was completed at St-Rémy.

The Café La Nuit on Place Forum is an exact match for the terrace platform, scattered with tables and bathed in gaslight under the stars, from the painting Terrace de café le Soir; Gauguin and Van Gogh used to drink here. Both the Arènes and Les Alyscamps were featured in paintings, and the hospital where he broke down and cut off his earlobe is now a kind of shrine, its garden reconstructed exactly as it figured in Le Jardin de l’Hôtel-Dieu. (As for that infamous ear—actually, just the left lobe—historians theorize Van Gogh wielded the knife in a kind of desperate homage to Gauguin, whom he had come to idolize, by following the fashion in Provençal bullrings for a matador to present his lady love with an ear from a dispatched bull.)

The drawbridge in Le pont de Langlois aux Lavandières has been reconstructed outside town, at Port-de-Bouc, 3 km (2 miles) south on D35.

About 25 km (16 miles) away is St-Rémy-de-Provence, where Van Gogh retreated to the asylum St-Paul-de-Mausolée. Here he spent hours in silence, painting the cloisters and nearby orchards, vineyards, and star-spangled crystalline skies—the stuff of inspiration.

Worth Noting

Cryptoportiques.

Entering through the elegant 17th-century City Hall, you can gain access to these ancient underground passages dating from 30 BC to 20 BC. The horseshoe of vaults and pillars buttressed the ancient forum from below ground. Used as a bomb shelter in World War II, the galleries still have a rather ominous atmosphere. Yet openings let in natural daylight and artworks of considerable merit have been unearthed here, adding to the mystery of the site’s original function. | Rue Balze, Pl. de la République, City Hall | 04–90–18–41–20 | www.arlestourisme.com | €3.50 | May–Sept., daily 9–noon and 2–7; Oct., daily 9–noon and 2–6; Nov.–Feb., daily 10–noon and 2–5; Mar. and Apr., daily 9–noon and 2–6.

Fondation Van Gogh.

After being temporarily housed at 30 rue de la République, the Fondation Van Gogh will reopen in 2014 at a new location on place Honoré Clair. The foundation showcases artists—such as painter Francis Bacon and photographer Robert Doisneau—who have been inspired by the Post-Impressionist master. | Hôtel Léautaud de Donines,5 pl. Honoré Clair | 04–90–49–94–04 | www.fondation-vincentvangogh-arles.org | €4 | Tues.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–5.

Place Lamartine.

Stand on the site of Van Gogh’s residence in Arles—the now-famous Maison Jaune (Yellow House), destroyed by bombs in 1944. The artist may have set up his easel on the Quais du Rhône, just off Place Lamartine, to capture the view that he transformed into his legendary Starry Night. Eight other sites are included on the city’s “Arles and Vincent van Gogh” (www.arlestourisme.com), linking sight to canvas, including the Place du Forum; the Trinquetaille bridge; Rue Mireille; the Summer Garden on the Boulevard des Lices; and the road along the Arles à Bouc canal. A map (le Circuit Van Gogh) can be purchased for €1 at the tourist office.

Pont Van Gogh (Langlois Bridge).

Van Gogh immortalized many everyday objects and captured views still seen today, but his famous painting of this bridge—on the southern outskirts of Arles, about 4 km (2.5 miles) from the old city—seems to touch a particular chord among locals. Bombed in World War II, the bridges has been restored to its former glory. | Rte. de Port St-Louis.

Théâtre Antique (Ancient Theater).

Directly up Rue de la Calade from Place de la République, you’ll find these ruins of a theater built by the Romans under Augustus in the first century BC. It’s here that the noted Venus of Arles statue, now in the Louvre, was dug up and identified. The theater was once an entertainment venue that held 10,000 people, and is now a pleasant, park-like retreat. Only two columns of the amphitheater’s stage walls and one row of arches remain; the fine local stone was used to build early Christian churches. Only a few vestiges of the original stone benches are left, along with the two great Corinthian columns. Today the ruins are a stage for the Festival d’Arles, in July and August, and site of Les Recontres d’Arles (Photography Festival) from early July to mid-September. | Rue de la Calade | 04–90–49–59–05 | www.arlestourisme.com | €6.50 joint ticket with Arènes | May–Sept., daily 9–7; Oct., daily 9–6; Nov.–Feb., daily 10–5; Mar. and Apr., daily 9–6.

WHERE TO EAT

Bodeguita.

TAPAS | This popular institution near Place du Forum is known for excellent tapas at more than reasonable prices. Embrace the bullfighter within and try a range of morsels: spicy stuffed dumplings, roasted Camembert with chorizo bread, or sliced chicken Catalonia-style. Grilled bull steak with creamed garlic sauce and a few other entrées are also available. The warm reception by chef Anthony is matched by the vivid yet simple interior. | Average main: €16 | 49 rue des Arenes | 04–90–96–68–59 | Closed lunch Sun.–Thurs., Nov.–Apr.

Brasserie Nord-Pinus.

FRENCH | With its tile-and-ironwork interior straight out of a design magazine and its Place du Forum terrace packed with all the right people, this cozy-chic retro brasserie highlights light, simple, and purely Provençal cooking in dishes such as roast rack of lamb au jus and pan-fried fillet of beef in a morel-and-cream sauce. The fois gras cocotte is simply delicious. Discreet service and a nicely balanced wine list only add to its charm. And wasn’t that Christian Lacroix (or Kate Moss or Juliette Binoche) under those Ray-Bans? | Average main: €24 | Pl. du Forum | 04–90–93–58–43 | www.nord-pinus.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Fodor’s Choice | La Chassagnette.

FRENCH | Reputedly the original registered “organic” restaurant in Provence, this sophisticated yet down-home comfortable spot—located 12 km (7½ miles) south of Arles—is fetchingly designed and has a dining area that extends outdoors, where large family-style picnic tables await under a wooden-slate canopy overlooking the extensive gardens. Using ingredients that are grown right on the property, innovative master chef Armand Arnal (who has been awarded a Michelin star) serves prix-fixe menus that are a refreshing, though not inexpensive, mix of modern and classic French-country cuisine—you can expect to pay €85–€125 per person. The à la carte options are equally admirable and much more affordable: picture a fillet of wild sole with roasted asparagus and bottarga for €35. Environmentally conscious oenophiles can wash it all down with a glass of eco-certified wine. | Average main: €37 | Rte. du Sambuc, D36 | 04–90–97–26–96 | www.chassagnette.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Feb., May–Oct., closed Tues. and Wed.; Nov.–Apr., closed Mon.–Wed.

La Gueule du Loup.

FRENCH | You reach your table through the kitchen, bustling with chopping, sizzling, and wafting scents, which is a nice introduction to what awaits. The cooking is serious—Provençal specialties such as rouget (red mullet) with pureed potatoes, caillette d’agneau (lamb baked in herbs), and crème brûlée with anise; and the four set menus, priced from €15 (lunch only) to €33, will surely appeal to all appetites. Jazz music and vintage magic posters bring the old Arles stone-and-beam interior up to date for a memorably pleasant experience. | Average main: €18 | 39 rue des Arènes | 04–90–96–96–69 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., and mid-Jan–mid-Feb.

L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel.

MODERN FRENCH | Jean-Luc Rabanel is the culinary success story of the region, famous for fresh garden-inspired cuisine that he features in this stylish restaurant and cooking school, one of the few organic eateries in France to merit two Michelin stars. A super-chic Japanese-style reception area, which includes the five elements—water, fire, earth, air, and spirit—ensures that “guests will come into harmony with their cuisine.” Menus are prix fixe only; the seven-dish tapas-style lunch (€65) is a treat not to be missed. Those keeping to a budget should try A Côté (04–90–47–61–13 | www.bistro-acote.com), a few doors down, where you can more affordably experience the genius of this super-chef by sampling a tasty selection of upmarket tapas and regional wines. | Average main: €40 | 7 rue des Carmes | 04–90–91–07–69 | www.rabanel.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Grand Hotel Nord-Pinus.

HOTEL | A richly atmospheric stage-set for literati (or literary poseurs), decor-magazine shoots, and people who prize ambience, this scruffy-chic landmark is not for everyone—but if Picasso once felt at home here, perhaps you will too. Presiding over the Place du Forum, it has an array of individually decorated guest rooms: wood or tile floors, large newly renovated bathrooms, and tasteful (if somewhat exotic) artwork are cleverly set off to stylish art-director advantage. Breakfast, whether continental or American, is extra. Pros: unique atmosphere transports you to a less complicated time, when bullfighting was not part of the political arena, and people still dressed for dinner; free mineral water in rooms. Cons: rooms at front of hotel can be noisy, especially in summer. | Rooms from: €185 | Pl. du Forum | 04–90–93–44–44 | www.nord-pinus.com | 25 rooms, 1 apartment | No meals.

Hotel l’Arlatan.

HOTEL | At this Provençal-style mansion, the elegant salon and fireplace are only a prelude to the inviting rooms with exposed beams, stone walls, and original tile work—further enhanced with soft lighting and large, cozy beds. The enclosed garden scattered with romantic nook seating is charming, and there’s even a heated pool. Breakfast is extra (€15). Pros: warm welcome; three elevators. Cons: some rooms are small and a bit sparse; tricky to find when arriving by car. | Rooms from: €85 | 26 rue du Sauvage | 04–90–93–56–66 | www.hotel-arlatan.fr | 46 rooms | Closed Nov. 15–Mar. 15 | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | L’Hôtel Particulier.

HOTEL | Once owned by the Baron of Chartrouse, this extraordinary 18th-century hôtel particulier (mansion) is delightfully intimate and decorated in sophisticated yet charming style, with gold-framed mirrors, white-brocade chairs, marble writing desks, artfully hung curtains, and hand-painted wallpaper. White rooms look out onto a beautifully landscaped garden; even if you take the five-minute walk into the center of town you can come back, stretch out by the pool, and listen to the birds chirp, or head to the spa for an essential-oil massage. Le Bistrot, open mid-May to mid-October (closed Sunday and Tuesday), serves only three-course dinner meals. Pros: quiet and secluded but only a short walk to town; combines historical ambience with modern high-tech conveniences. Cons: a 50% nonrefundable deposit is required when booking; the pool is small, which can be difficult in summer when every guest wants to be in the water; optional breakfast steep (€23). | Rooms from: €309 | 4 rue de la Monnaie | 04–90–52–51–40 | www.hotel-particulier.com | 18 | No meals.

Muette.

HOTEL | This Old Town option has 12th-century exposed stone walls, a 15th-century spiral staircase, and weathered wood, plus Provençal prints and fresh sunflowers in every room to add just the right homey touch. Modern conveniences include sparkling blue-and-white-tile baths, excellent beds, and flat screen TVs. Pros: excellent value; enthusiastic welcome; generous buffet breakfast (extra). Cons: some rooms can be very noisy, especially in the summer; parking can be tricky. | Rooms from: €70 | 15 rue des Suisses | 04–90–96–15–39 | www.hotel-muette.com | 18 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–Feb. | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

To find out what’s happening in and around Arles (even as far away as Nîmes and Avignon), check the free monthly Le César (www.cesar.fr), which lists films, plays, cabarets, and music events. It’s distributed at the tourist office and in bars, clubs, and cinemas.

In high season the cafés stay lively until the wee hours; in winter the streets empty out by 11.

Association du Méjan.

Founded in partnership with Actes Sud and housed in the beautiful Chapelle Saint-Martin du Méjan, this arts organization hosts a year-round program of classical and sacred music; a revolving series of exhibitions featuring painting, sculpture, and photography; and the superb Arles Jazz Festival, held every year in May. | Pl. Nina-Berberova | 04–90–49–56–78 | www.lemejan.com.

Brasserie Nord-Pinus.

For many locals, the place to tipple is at the hip bar in the Hôtel Nord-Pinus. | Pl. du Forum.

Le Cargo de Nuit.

This is Arles’s main venue for live jazz, reggae, and rock, with a dance floor next to the stage. A meal allows you reduced entry to see the show. | 7 av. Sadi-Carnot | 04–90–49–55–99 | www.cargodenuit.com.

THE CAMARGUE

19 km (12 miles) east of Aigues-Mortes, 15 km (9 miles) south of Arles.

Stretching to the horizon for about 800-square km (309-square miles), the vast alluvial delta of the Rhône known as the Camargue is an austere, flat marshland, scoured by the mistral and swarmed over by mosquitoes. Between the endless flow of sediment from the Rhône and the erosive force of the sea, its shape is constantly changing. Even the Provençal poet Frédéric Mistral described it in bleak terms: “Ni arbre, ni ombre, ni âme” (“Neither tree, nor shade, nor a soul”). Yet its harsh landscape harbors a concentration of exotic wildlife unique in Europe, and its isolation has given birth to an ascetic and ancient way of life that transcends national stereotypes. People find the Camargue intriguing, birds find it irresistible. The protected marshes lure some 400 species, including more than 160 in migration.

Getting Here

Bus No. 20 from Arles goes to Pont de Gau (46 mins, €1.50) and Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer (1 hr, €1.50). The strange region itself is worth discovering slowly, either on foot or on horseback—especially as its wildest reaches are inaccessible by car.

Visitor Information

Camargue Tourist Office. | 1 pl. Frédéric Mistral, | Saint-Gilles | 04–66–87–33–75 | www.ot-saint-gilles.fr.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau (Pont du Gau Ornithological Park).

The easiest place to view birdlife is the Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau. On some 150 acres of marsh and salt lands, birds are welcomed and protected (but in no way confined); injured birds are treated and kept in large pens, to be released if and when able to survive. A series of boardwalks (including a short, child-friendly inner loop) snakes over the wetlands, the longest leading to an observation blind, where a half hour of silence, binoculars in hand, can reveal unsuspected satisfactions. | D570, 5 km (3 miles) north of Saintes Maries de la Mer | Saintes Maries de la Mer | 04–90–97–82–62 | www.parcornithologique.com | €9 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9–sunset; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–sunset.

Parc Regional de Camargue.

As you drive the scarce roads that barely crisscross the Camargue, you are usually within the boundaries of the Parc Regional de Camargue. Unlike state and national parks in the United States, this area is privately owned and utilized following regulations imposed by the French government. The principal owners are the manadiers (the Camargue equivalent of small-scale ranchers) and their gardians (a kind of open-range cowboy), who graze wide-horn bulls and dappled-white horses. When not participating in a bloodless bullfight (mounted players try to hook a red ribbon from its horns), a bull may well end up in the wine-rich regional stew called gardianne de taureau. Riding through the marshlands in leather pants and wide-rim black hats and wielding long prongs to prod their cattle, the gardians themselves are as fascinating as the wildlife. Their homes—tiny and whitewashed—dot the countryside. TIP In these parts, it’s a good idea to slather on the mosquito repellent. | 04–90–97–10–82 | www.parc-camargue.fr.

WHERE TO STAY

Mas de Peint.

HOTEL | Sitting on roughly 1,250 acres of Camargue ranch land, this exquisite 17th-century farmhouse may just offer the ultimate mas experience. A study in country elegance, the rooms have beautifully preserved 400-year-old beams, carefully polished stone floors, and creamy linen fabrics all tastefully complemented by brass beds, claw-foot bathtubs, and natural, soft Provençal colors. The small restaurant, charmingly decorated with checked curtains, paysan chairs, and fresh roses on every table, is worth the trip even if you can’t stay the night. A prix-fixe menu changes daily and features sophisticated specialties that often rely on homegrown ingredients, such as roasted tuna flank with escargots à la provençale, or grilled game hen with baby potatoes and cinnamon-flavor beets (be warned, though: reservations are essential and lunch will set you back at least €41). Pros: isolated setting makes for a perfect escape—romantic or otherwise; reception is warm; no detail is missed in service or style. Cons: make sure you confirm room has a shower; unheated pool is a tad chilly even in September; not much to do once sun goes down. | Rooms from: €260 | D36, 20 km (12 miles) south of Arles | Le Sambuc | 04–90–97–20–62 | www.masdepeint.com | 8 rooms, 5 suites | Closed mid-Nov.–end of Mar.; open for 2 wks at Christmas | No meals.

AIGUES-MORTES

41 km (25 miles) south of Nîmes, 48 km (30 miles) southwest of Arles.

Like a tiny illumination in a medieval manuscript, Aigues-Mortes is a precise and perfect miniature fortress-town contained within symmetrical crenellated walls, its streets laid out in geometric grids. Now awash in a flat wasteland of sand, salt, and monotonous marsh, it was once a major port town from which no less than St-Louis himself (Louis IX) set sail in the 13th century to conquer Jerusalem. In 1248 some 35,000 zealous men launched 1,500 ships toward Cyprus, engaging the infidel on his own turf and suffering swift defeat; Louis was briefly taken prisoner. A second launching in 1270 led to more crushing loss, and Louis succumbed to the plague—though he clearly lives on in memory here.

Getting Here

Several trains a day come from Nîmes (45–60 mins, €7.90). Edgard Transport’s C32 bus also makes the trip every two hours (1 hr, €1.50). By car, take the A9 to exit Gallargues (direction Aimargues–St- Laurent-d’Aigouze), and then the D979 directly to Aigues-Mortes.

Visitor Information

Aigues-Mortes Tourist Office. | Pl. St. Louis | 04–66–53–73–00 | www.ot-aiguesmortes.fr.

EXPLORING

Fortress-Port.

Louis’s state-of-the-art fortress-port is astonishingly well preserved. The stout walls now contain a small Provençal village filled with tourists, but the visit is more than justified by the impressive scale of the original structure. | Pl. Anatole France, Porte de la Gardette | 04–66–53–61–55 | €7.50 | May–Aug., daily 10–7; Sept.–Apr., daily 10–5:30.

Place St-Louis.

A 19th-century statue of the father of the fleur-de-lis reigns under shady pollards on this square with a mellow village feel, a welcome retreat from the clutter of souvenir shops on surrounding lanes. The pretty, bare-bones Église Notre-Dame des Sablons, on one corner of the square, has a timeless air (the church dates from the 13th century, but the stained glass is modern), and the spectacular Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs and Chapelle des Pénitents Gris are Baroque-era marvels. | 04–66–53–73–00 | Free.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Chez Bob.

FRENCH | In a smoky, isolated stone farmhouse filled with old posters, you’ll taste Camargue cooking at its rustic best. There’s only the daily four-course menu (€43), which can include anything from anchoïade (crudités with hard-cooked egg—still in the shell—and anchovy vinaigrette), homemade duck pâté thick with peppercorns, and often the pièce de résistance: a thick, sizzling slab of bull steak grilled in the roaring fireplace. Sprinkle on hand-skimmed sea salt and dig in, while listening to the migrating birds pass by. Sunday at lunch, professional musicians add to the already authentic ambience. | Average main: €21 | Mas Petite Antonelle, Rte. du Sambuc, Villeneuve | 04–90–97–00–29 | www.restaurantbob.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues. No dinner Sun.

Les Arcades.

B&B/INN | This beautifully preserved 16th-century house has large, airy guest accommodations, some with tall windows overlooking a green courtyard. Pristine white-stone walls, color-stained woodwork, and rubbed-ocher walls frame antiques and lush fabrics. Each room is named according to a local bird whose portrait, colorfully portrayed with a modern flair, determines the room’s color scheme. The peaceful sky-blue Avocette room, with beamed ceilings and a chandelier, is the largest. Breakfast (€10) can be eaten on a little terrace by the pool. Pros: rooms overlook lovely courtyard; free parking card provided at check-in. Cons: not much English spoken at hotel. | Rooms from: €110 | 23 bd. Gambetta | 04–66–53–81–13 | www.les-arcades.fr | 9 rooms | No meals.

NÎMES

35 km (20 miles) north of Aigues-Mortes, 43 km (26 miles) south of Avignon, 121 km (74 miles) west of Marseille.

If you’ve come to the south seeking treasures from antiquity, you need look no further than Nîmes (pronounced neem): with one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world and a near-perfect Roman temple, Nîmes beats out Arles for the title of “French City Best Able to Cash In on the Roman Empire’s Former Glory.” But if you’ve come in search of a more modern mythology—of lazy, graceful Provence—give Nîmes a pass. It’s a feisty, run-down rat race of a town, with jalopies and Vespas roaring irreverently around the ancient sites. Its medieval Vieille Ville lacks the grace of those in Arles or St-Rémy. Yet its rumpled and rebellious ways trace directly back to its Roman incarnation, when its population swelled with newly victorious soldiers flaunting arrogant behavior after their conquest of Egypt in 31 BC.

Already anchoring a fiefdom of pre-Roman oppida (elevated fortresses) before ceding to the empire in the 1st century BC, this ancient city grew to formidable proportions under the Pax Romana. Its next golden age bloomed under the Protestants, who established an anti-Catholic stronghold here and wreaked havoc on the iconic architecture—not to mention the papist minority. Their massacre of some 200 Catholic citizens in 1567 is remembered as the Michelade; many of those murdered were priests sheltered in the évêché (bishop’s house), now the Museum of Old Nîmes.

Getting Here and Around

A limited number of flights arrive at the Aéroport de Nîmes-Alès-Camargue-Cévennes. If you’re coming by train, 11 TGVs daily make the three-hour trip from Paris; frequent trains also connect Nîmes with Avignon Centre (30 mins), Arles (25 mins), Marseille (about 1 hr, 20 mins), and other locales. Buses operate out of the gare routière, just behind the train station. Edgard runs several per day to Arles; others go to Avignon every day except Sunday. All sites within Nîmes are walkable; but if your feet get tired, the Tango bus (www.tangobus.fr) does a loop from the station, passing many principal attractions en route; tickets cost €1.10.

Visitor Information

Nîmes Tourist Office. | 6 rue Auguste | 04–66–58–38–00 | www.nimes-tourisme.com.

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EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | Arènes.

The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world is a miniature of the Colosseum in Rome (note the small carvings of Romulus and Remus—the wrestling gladiators—on the exterior and the intricate bulls’ heads etched into the stone over the entrance on the north side). More than 435 feet long and 330 feet wide, it had a seating capacity of 24,000 in its day. Bloody gladiator battles, criminals being thrown to animals, and theatrical wild-boar chases drew crowds to its bleachers—and the vomitoria beneath them. Nowadays the corrida (bullfight) transforms the arena (and all of Nîmes) into a sangria-flushed homage to Spain. Concerts are held here year-round, thanks to a high-tech glass-and-steel structure that covers the arena for winter use. | Bd. des Arènes | 04–66–21–82–56, 04–66–02–80–80 feria box office | www.arenes-nimes.com | €8.50; €11 joint ticket with Tour Magne and Maison Carrée | Mar. and Oct, daily 9–6; Apr., May, and Sept., daily 9–6:30; June, daily 9–7; July and Aug., daily 9–8; Nov.–Feb., daily 9:30–5.

Maison Carrée (Square House).

Lovely and forlorn in the middle of a busy downtown square, this exquisitely preserved temple strikes a timeless balance between symmetry and whimsy, purity of line and richness of decor. Modeled on the Temple to Apollo in Rome, adorned with magnificent marble columns and elegant pediment, the Maison Carrée remains one of the most noble surviving structures of ancient Roman civilization anywhere. Built around 5 BC and dedicated to Caius Caesar and his grandson Lucius, the temple has survived subsequent use as a medieval meeting hall, an Augustine church, a storehouse for Revolutionary archives, and a horse shed. Temporary art and photo exhibitions are held here, and among a permanent display of photos and drawings of ongoing archaeological work is a splendid ancient Roman fresco of Cassandra (being dragged by her hair by a hunter) that was discovered in 1992 and carefully restored. There’s even a fun 3-D projection of the heroes of Nîmes. | Pl. de la Maison Carrée | 04–66–21–82–56 | www.arenes-nimes.com | €4.80; joint ticket with Tour Magne and Arénes €11 | June, daily 10–7; July and Aug., daily 10–8; Apr., May, and Sept., daily 10–6:30; Mar. and Oct., daily 10–6; Nov.–Feb., daily 10–1 and 2–4:30.

Musée Archéologique et d’Histoire Naturelle (Museum of Archaeology and Natural History).

This old Jesuit college houses a wonderful collection of local archaeological finds, including sarcophagi, beautiful pieces of Roman glass, statues, busts, friezes, tools, coins, and pottery. Among the highlights are a rare pre-Roman statue called The Warrior of Grezan and the Marbacum Torso, which was dug up at the foot of the Tour Magne. | 13 bd. Amiral Courbet | 04–66–76–74–80 | www.nimes.fr | Free | Tues.–Sun. 10–6.

Temple de Diane (Temple of Diana).

This shattered Roman ruin dates from the second century BC. The temple’s function is unknown, though it’s thought to have been part of a larger Roman complex that is still unexcavated. In the Middle Ages Benedictine nuns occupied the building before it was converted into a church. Destruction came during the Wars of Religion. | Jardins de la Fontaine.

Tour Magne (Magne Tower).

At the far end of the Jardins de la Fontaine, you’ll find the remains of a tower the emperor Augustus had built on Gallic foundations; it was probably used as a lookout post. Despite losing 30 feet in height over the course of time, the tower still provides fine views of Nîmes for anyone energetic enough to climb the 140 steps. | Jardins de la Fontaine, Pl. Guillaume-Apollinaire | 04–66–21–82–56 | €3; joint ticket with Arènes and Maison Carrée €11 | Nov.–Feb., daily 9:30–1 and 2–4:30; Mar. and Oct., daily 9:30–1 and 2–6; Apr., May, and Sept., daily 9:30–6:30; June, daily 9–7; July and Aug., daily 9–8.

Worth Noting

Cathédrale Notre-Dame et St-Castor (Nimes Cathedral).

Destroyed and rebuilt in several stages, Nîmes Cathedral was damaged by Protestants during the 16th- century Wars of Religion but still shows traces of its original construction in 1096. A remarkably preserved Romanesque frieze portrays Adam and Eve cowering in shame, the gory slaughter of Abel, and a flood-wearied Noah. Inside, look for the fourth-century sarcophagus (third chapel on the right) and a magnificent 17th-century chapel in the apse. | Pl. aux Herbes | 04–66–67–27–72 | Weekdays 8:30–6, Sat. 8:30–noon and 2–6.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

The centerpiece of this early 20th-century building, stunningly refurbished by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, is a vast ancient mosaic depicting a marriage ceremony that provides intriguing insights into the lifestyle of Roman aristocrats. Also in the varied collection are seven paintings devoted to Cleopatra by 18th-century Nîmes-born painter Natoire Italian, plus some fine Flemish, Dutch, and French works (notably Rubens’s Portrait of a Monk and Giambono’s The Mystic Marriage of St. Catherine). | 23 rue de la Cite Foulc | 04–66–67–38–21 | www.nimes.fr | €5 | Tues.–Sun. 10–6.

Musée du Vieux Nîmes (Museum of Old Nîmes).

Housed in the 17th-century bishop’s palace opposite the cathedral, this museum shows off garments embroidered in the exotic and vibrant style for which Nîmes was once famous. Look for the 14th-century jacket made of blue serge de Nîmes—the famous fabric (now simply called denim) from which Levi-Strauss first fashioned blue jeans. | Pl. aux Herbes | 04–66–76–73–70 | www.nimes.fr | Free | Tues.–Sun. 10–6.

WHERE TO EAT

Alexandre.

MODERN FRENCH | Chef Michel Kayser adds a personal touch to local specialties at this à la mode modern restaurant. The menu changes according to the season and the chef’s creative whimsy. Golden zucchini flowers with frothy truffle mousseline followed by a rich bull steak, roasted in its own juice and served with pan-roasted potatoes, may not leave room for dessert. The decor is elegantly spare, with stone walls and large bay windows; but the gardens are extensive, and often apricots and peaches plucked from the overhanging branches will appear on your plate, magically transformed into some delicious creation. | Average main: €50 | 2 rue Xavier Tronc, Rte. de l’Aeroport | 04–66–70–08–99 | www.michelkayser.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. dinner. Closed Mon. and Tues. Sept.–June, and Sun. and Mon. July and Aug. Closed 2 wks end of Feb. and Aug.

Le Jardin d’Hadrien.

FRENCH | This chic enclave, with its quarried white stone, ancient plank-and-beam ceiling, and open fireplace, would be a culinary haven even without its lovely hidden garden, a shady retreat for summer meals. Chef Christophe Adlin changes menus monthly to bring the freshest seasonal combinations to your palate, so you might be treated to fresh cod and zucchini flowers filled with brandade (the creamy, light paste of salt cod and olive oil) or, in winter, sautéed veal and crayfish with saffron potatoes. Two prix-fixe menus served year-round—gourmand and saveur—change every other month. | Average main: €21 | 11 rue Enclos Rey | 04–66–21–86–65 | www.lejardindhadrien.fr | Reservations essential | No lunch Mon.–Thurs., no dinner Sun.

Le Patio Littré.

BISTRO | Le Patio has maintained the bistro flavor of its former incarnation (Marché sur la Table), and the locals have remained devoted. Chef Julien Labonne Barrera, who clearly learned a trick or two during his four years at the three-star Michelin L’Arpège in Paris, uses only the freshest local and organic ingredients to create edible exaltations. Alongside the Mediterranean catch of the day and Camargue bull, you’ll find vegetarian selections. TIP You can’t beat the €19 lunch menu. | Average main: €30 | 10 rue Littré | 04–66–67–22–50 | www.patiolittre.fr | Closed Mon. and Tues.

L’Enclos de la Fontaine.

FRENCH | Nîmes’s most fashionable post-corrida gathering spot is in the Hotel Impérator, with warm-weather dining in an idyllic garden court. The food is hearty and delicious, with surprisingly Spanish touches. Chef Thierry Plaideau carefully structures his menu, sprinkling in dishes such as almond duck, dried cod stuffed in red peppers, and roasted lamb cooked in wild mint. Have an after-dinner drink in the Bar Hemingway; after all, they named it for him because he loved to drink here. | Average main: €24 | 15 rue Gaston-Boissier | 04–66–21–90–30 | www.hotel-imperator.com | Closed Mon. No lunch Sat., no dinner Sun.

WHERE TO STAY

Amphithéâtre.

HOTEL | Just behind the Arena, this big, solid old private home has fortunately fallen into the hands of a loving owner, who has stripped 18th-century double doors and fitted rooms with restored-wood details, white-tiled bathrooms, and antique bedroom sets. A generous breakfast buffet is served in the dining room. Ask for one of the three air-conditioned rooms overlooking the Place du Marché, where you can watch café life from your balcony. Pros: ideally located; good value for the price. Cons: rooms can be small and a bit stuffy; amenities are limited. | Rooms from: €89 | 4 rue des Arènes | 04–66–67–28–51 | hoteldelamphitheatre.com | 17 rooms | No meals.

Hotel des Tuileries.

HOTEL | English owners Andrew and Caryn offer tastefully quaint, clean, and spacious rooms that are a welcome retreat from the clamor of Nîmes but are right near restaurants and the sights. Amenities include a buffet breakfast (extra) to start the day off right and a secure paid garage across the street for hassle-free parking. Pros: excellent value; helpful service; accommodating check-in/check-out times. Cons: Wi-Fi signal can be weak in some parts of the hotel. | Rooms from: €80 | 22 rue Roussy | 04–66–21–31–15 | www.hoteldestuileries.com | 11 rooms | No meals.

Hotel Imperator.

HOTEL | Character-filled decor and a flavorful restaurant make this gracious old hotel near the Jardins de la Fontaine a local institution, and handsome woods and rich fabrics ensure guest rooms live up to the reputation. The quirky Hemingway bar in the downstairs lobby opens to a delicious flower garden, and the gourmet Enclos de la Fontaine is one of the best tables in Nîmes (although over-elaborate for some tastes). Pros: richly atmospheric; staff speak enough English; good deals online. Cons: some rooms can be small and a little noisy, especially in summer; grandeur is said to be fading. | Rooms from: €210 | 15 rue Gaston Boissier, Quai de la Fontaine | 04–66–21–90–30 | www.hotel-imperator.com | 60 rooms | Breakfast.

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Abbaye de Montmajour | Les Baux-de-Provence | St-Rémy-de-Provence

The low mountain range called the Alpilles (pronounced ahl-pee-yuh) forms a rough-hewn, rocky landscape that rises into nearly barren limestone hills, the surrounding fields silvered with rows of twisted olive trees and alleys of gnarled amandiers (almond trees). There are superb antiquities in St-Rémy and feudal ruins in Les Baux.

ABBAYE DE MONTMAJOUR

35 km (20 miles) southeast of Nîmes, 5 km (3 miles) northeast of Arles.

Once the spiritual center of the region and a major 12th-century pilgrimage stop, the haunting ruins of the Abbaye de Montmajour still dominate this romantic windswept landscape.

Getting Here

Cartreize’s bus No. 29 runs from Arles daily (€1.50); by car, take the D17 in the direction of Fontvieille and follow the signs to the Abbaye.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Abbaye de Montmajour.

This magnificent Romanesque abbey looming over the marshlands north of Arles stands in partial ruin. Begun in the 10th century by a handful of Benedictine monks, the abbey grew according to an ambitious plan of church, crypt, and cloister and, under the management of worldly lay monks in the 17th century, became more sumptuous. When the Church ejected those monks, they sacked the place, and what remained was eventually sold off as scrap. A 19th-century medieval revival spurred a partial restoration, but portions are still in ruins. What remains is a spare and beautiful piece of Romanesque architecture. The cloister rivals that of St-Trophime in Arles for its balance, elegance, and air of mystical peace: Van Gogh, drawn to its isolation, came often to the abbey to reflect, but the strong mistral winds kept him from painting there. The interior, renovated by contemporary architect Rudy Ricciotti, is used for world-class contemporary art exhibitions, and the Chapelle St Croix is open for visits—but you need to ask for the keys. | On D17 northeast of Arles, Rte. De Fontvielle, direction Fontvieille | 04–90–54–64–17 | www.montmajour.monuments-nationaux.fr | €7.50 | Apr.–June, daily 9:30–6; July–Sept., daily 10–6:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–5.

LES BAUX-DE-PROVENCE

17 km (10 miles) west of Montmajour, 18 km (11 miles) northeast of Arles, 29 km (18 miles) south of Avignon.

When you first search the craggy hilltops for signs of Les Baux-de-Provence (pronounced lay-bo-duh-pro-vance), you may not quite be able to distinguish between bedrock and building, so naturally does the ragged skyline of towers and crenellations blend into the sawtooth jags of stone. This tiny château-village ranks as one of the most visited tourist sites in France, with natural scenery and medieval buildings of astonishing beauty. From this intimidating vantage point, the lords of Les Baux ruled over one of the largest fiefdoms in the south throughout the 11th and 12th centuries. In the 19th century Les Baux found new purpose: the mineral bauxite, valued as an alloy in aluminum production, was discovered in its hills and named for its source. A profitable industry sprang up that lasted into the 20th century before fading into history.

Today Les Baux offers two famous faces to the world: its beautifully preserved medieval village and the ghostly ruins of its fortress, once referred to as the ville morte (dead town). In the former, lovely 12th-century stone houses, even their window frames still intact, shelter the shops, cafés, and galleries that line the steep cobbled streets. At the edge of the village is a cliff that offers up a stunning view over the Val d’Enfer (Hell’s Valley), said to have inspired Dante’s Inferno.

Getting Here and Around

June to September, Cartreize’s No. 59 bus runs daily from Arles (€2.20). Otherwise, the easiest way to reach Les Baux is by car; take the A7 to exit 25, then the D99 between Tarascon and Cavaillon.

Visitor Information

Les Baux-de-Provence Tourist Office. | Maison du Roy | 04–90–54–34–39 | www.lesbauxdeprovence.com.

EXPLORING

Carrières de Lumières.

This vast old bauxite quarry has 66-foot-high stone walls that make a dramatic setting for a multimedia show in which thousands of images are projected onto the walls. Exhibitions change periodically, but recent showings have showcased the life and work of Vincent van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, and Chagall. | Petite Rte. de Mailliane, D27 | 04–90–54–47–37 | www.carrieres-lumieres.com | €9.50; €14.50 joint ticket with Château des Baux | Apr.–Sept., daily 9:30–7:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–6.

FAMILY | Château des Baux.

High above the Val d’Enfer, the 17-acre cliff-top sprawl of ruins is contained under the umbrella name the Château des Baux. At the entry, the Tour du Brau contains the Musée d’Histoire des Baux, a small collection of relics and models which shelters a permanent music-and-slide show called Van Gogh, Gauguin, Cézanne au Pays de l’Olivier, featuring artworks depicting olive orchards in their infinite variety. From April through September there are fascinating medieval exhibitions: people dressed up in authentic costumes, displays of medieval crafts, and even a few jousting tournaments with handsome knights carrying fluttering silk tokens of their beloved ladies. The exit gives access to the wide and varied grounds, where the tiny Chapelle St-Blaise and towers mingle with skeletal ruins. | Rue du Trencat | 04–90–54–55–56 | chateau-baux-provence.com | €9.50 with audioguide; €14.50 joint ticket with Carrières de Lumières | Mar.–May, daily 9:15–7:15; June–Aug., daily 9–8:15; Sept.–Nov., daily 9:30–6; Dec.–Feb., daily 10–5.

WHERE TO STAY

La Reine Jeanne.

B&B/INN | Churchill and Jacques Brel, Sartre and de Beauvoir (who had separate rooms but a shared balcony—and what a balcony) were all happy guests at this modest but majestically placed inn nicely situated to provide rugged views of the château up the street. The inn is right at the entrance to the village and offers smallish, simple rooms that were renovated in 2013. Good home-style cooking (try l’aïoli—a garlic mayonnaise fish dish) and a fine plat du jour are served in the restaurant, which offers views from both the panoramic dining room and a pretty terrace; it’s one of the most memorable settings for a meal in Les Baux. Pros: views are lovely; a chambre familiale sleeps four. Cons: some rooms are tiny; only two rooms have (small) balconies. | Rooms from: €60 | Grande Rue | 04–90–54–32–06 | www.la-reinejeanne.com | 7 rooms, 1 apartment | Closed Jan. | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | L’Oustau de la Baumanière.

HOTEL | Spread over three historic buildings just outside the village of Les Baux, guest rooms at this fabled hotel are the last word in Provençal chic—breezy, private, and beautifully furnished with antiques yet done with a contemporary flair. Elizabeth Taylor, Picasso, Churchill, and thousands of others have headed to this oasis—sheltered by rocky cliffs and set amid formal landscaped terraces—for some quintessential luxe-Provençal pampering. As for the famed Baumanière restaurant (reservations essential), Ducasse-trained Michelin two-star chef Sylvestre Wahid continues to attract culinary pilgrims who revel in the varied menu—blue lobster grilled with butter in its shell, alongside spaghettini with truffles and basil. Pros: low-key in style and flair with lots of ammenities; one of the greatest restaurants in Provence. Cons: so low-key, with some rooms bordering on generic, you wonder if it is worth it; can be hit-and-miss with service. | Rooms from: €370 | Val d’Enfer | 04–90–54–33–07 | www.oustaudebaumaniere.com | 17 rooms, 13 suites | Hotel and restaurant closed Jan. and Feb.; restaurant closed Wed. and Thurs. in Mar., and Oct.–mid-Dec. | No meals.

ST-RÉMY-DE-PROVENCE

8 km (5 miles) north of Les Baux, 24 km (15 miles) northeast of Arles, 19 km (12 miles) south of Avignon.

There are other towns as pretty as St-Rémy-de-Provence, and others in more dramatic or picturesque settings. Ruins can be found throughout the south, and so can authentic village life. Yet something felicitous has happened here in the heart of the Alpilles—a steady infusion of style, of art, of imagination—all brought by people with a respect for local traditions and a love of Provençal ways. As many of them have been gossip-column names or off-duty celebs, it is easy to understand why this pretty town has earned its nickname, the Hamptons of Provence. St-Rémy, more than anywhere, allows you to meditate quietly on antiquity, browse pungent markets with basket in hand, and also enjoy urbane galleries, cosmopolitan shops, and an abundance of chic dining and lodging choices. In short, St-Rémy has been gentrified through and through.

First established by an indigenous Celtic-Ligurian people who worshipped the god Glan, the village Glanum was adopted by the Greeks of Marseille in the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC. Under the Pax Romana there developed a veritable city, with temples and forum, luxurious villas, and baths. The Romans (and Glanum) eventually fell, but a village grew up next to their ruins, taking its name from their protectorate, the Abbey St-Remi, which was based in Reims. St-Rémy de Provence grew to be an important market town, and wealthy families built fine mansions in its center—among them the de Sades (whose black-sheep relation held forth in the Luberon at Lacoste). Perhaps the best known resident, though, was the ill-fated Vincent van Gogh. Shipped unceremoniously out of Arles at the height of his madness (and creativity), he committed himself to the asylum St-Paul-de-Mausolée, a tranquil spot that still draws devotees.

Getting Here and Around

It’s easiest to come by car; take the A7 until you hit exit 25, then the D99 between Tarascon and Cavaillon (direction St-Rémy). In summer, Cartreize has an Arles–St-Rémy–Les Baux bus (Monday–Saturday, €2.30). Local trains stop at nearby Tarascon, where you can board a bus bound for St-Rémy (20 mins, €1).

Visitor Information

St-Rémy-de-Provence Tourist Office. | Pl. Jean Jaurès | 04–90–92–05–22 | www.saintremy-de-provence.com.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Glanum.

A slick visitor center prepares you for entry into the ancient village of Glanum, with scale models of the site in its various heydays. A good map and an English brochure guide you stone by stone through the maze of foundations, walls, towers, and columns that spread across a broad field; helpfully, Greek sites are noted by numbers, Roman ones by letters. Glanum is across the street from Les Antiques and set back from the D5, and the only parking is in a dusty roadside lot on the D5 south of town (in the direction of Les Baux). | Rte. des Baux de Provence, off D5, direction Les Baux | 04–90–92–23–70 | www.glanum.monuments-nationaux.fr | €7.50 | Apr.–Aug., daily 10–6:30; Sept., Tues.–Sun., 10–6:30; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10–5.

Les Antiques.

Two of the most miraculously preserved classical monuments in France are simply called Les Antiques. Dating from 30 BC, the Mausolée (mausoleum), a wedding-cake stack of arches and columns, lacks nothing but a finial on top, and is dedicated to a Julian, probably Caesar Augustus. A few yards away stands another marvel: the Arc Triomphal, dating from AD 20.

St-Paul-de-Mausolé.

You can cut across the fields from Glanum to St-Paul-de-Mausolé, the isolated asylum where Van Gogh spent the last year of his life (1889–90). Enter quietly: the hospital shelters psychiatric patients to this day, all of them women. You’re free to walk up the beautifully manicured garden path to the church and its jewel-box Romanesque cloister, where the artist found womblike peace. | Chemin Saint-Paul | 04–90–92–77–00 | www.saintpauldemausole.fr | €4.50 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9:30–6:45; Oct., Nov., and Mar., daily 10:15–5.

Vieille Ville.

Within St-Rémy’s fast-moving traffic loop, a labyrinth of narrow streets leads you away from the action and into the slow-moving inner sanctum of the Vieille Ville. Here trendy, high-end shops mingle pleasantly with local life, and the buildings, if gentrified, blend in unobtrusively.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Bistrot Découverte.

BISTRO | Claude and Dana Douard were happy to collaborate with some of the greatest chefs of our time before getting away from the big city lights to open this bistro-wine bar hotspot in the center of St-Rémy. The wine selection is magnificent, and so is the simple food based on top-notch local ingredients. Try the braised veal in wild-lemon sauce served on fresh tagliatelle pasta, or the made-to-order beef tartare. | Average main: €18 | 19 bd. Victor Hugo | 04–90–92–34–49 | www.bistrotdecouverte.com | Reservations essential | Closed Oct.–mid-Mar.

La Maison Jaune.

FRENCH | This 18th-century retreat with a Michelin star in the Vieille Ville draws crowds of summer people to its pretty roof terrace, with accents of sober stone and lively contemporary furniture both indoors and out. The look reflects the cuisine: with vivid flavors and a cool, contained touch, chef François Perraud prepares fresh Mediterranean sea bream, bouillabaisse, grilled lamb from Provence, and other specialties on his seasonally changing menus. | Average main: €36 | 15 rue Carnot | 04–90–92–56–14 | www.lamaisonjaune.info | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. Mar.–June and Sept.–Feb.

Château de Roussan.

B&B/INN | Philippe Roussel, a descendant of the 17th-century owners, has filled his château with lovingly polished antique family furniture, buffed the red clay floors to their original shine, and ensured that guest rooms are light and airy and the bathrooms equipped with all the modern trinkets. The restaurant, La Table de Roussan, serves tempting menus and à la carte dishes. Pros: eager-to-please, house-proud staff are happy to recount the hotel’s history; rooms are very quiet. Cons: some rooms are small; elevator doesn’t provide access to all rooms; restaurant closed three days a week in low season. | Rooms from: €220 | D99, Rte. de Tarascon | 04–90–90–79–00 | www.chateauderoussan.com | 16 rooms, 4 suites | Restaurant closed Sun.–Tues. low season | No meals.

Mas des Carassins.

HOTEL | A textbook example of a Provençal mas, this rambling 19th-century farmhouse—replete with stonework walls and wrought-iron canopy beds—has an impressive amount of style. But the gardens are so attractive that you may want to spend most of your time outside, surrounded by thyme bushes, pots of lemon and orange trees, fountains, pools, and centuries-old olive trees; if the season permits you can enjoy a memorable dinner on the outside terrace. A second residence houses eight guest rooms that maintain the contemporary-meets-modern high-style theme. Pros: service-friendly atmosphere makes for a stress-free stay; breakfast (included) is good and substantial, short walk to town. Cons: each room is unique so inquire when booking. | Rooms from: €170 | 1 chemin Gaulois | 04–90–92–15–48 | www.masdescarassins.com | 22 rooms | Closed Dec.–Mar. except for 2 wks at Christmas | Breakfast.

SHOPPING

Every Wednesday morning St-Rémy hosts one of the most popular markets in Provence, during which place de la République and narrow Vieille Ville streets overflow with fresh produce and herbs, as well as fabrics and brocantes (antiques). With all the summer people, it’s little wonder that food shops and traiteurs (take-out caterers) do the biggest business in St-Rémy. Olive oils are sold like fine old wines, and the breads heaped in boulangerie windows are as knobby and rough-hewn as they should be. The best food shops are concentrated in the Vieille Ville.

Chocolaterie Joel Durand.

At Chocolaterie Joel Durand the sweet treats are numbered to indicate the various flavors, from rose petal to Camargue saffron. | 3 bd. Victor Hugo | 04–90–92–38–25 | www.chocolat-durand.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Lilamand.

Much more than just a sweet shop, this historical confiseur dates back to 1866 and is in its fifth generation of family ownership on the same St-Rémy premises. Makers of the famous Provençal calisson, an almond-shaped marzipan confection, as well as a gorgeous array of candied fruits—including everything from cherries and strawberries to kiwis, fennel, and even whole pumpkins—from a recipe credited to Nostradamus (a native son). There are also fruit syrups, jams, chocolates, and regional honey. A tour of the factory and a stop in the beautiful boutique make for a highly pleasurable hour or two. | 5 av. Albert Schweitzer | 04–90–92–11–08 | www.confiserie-lilamand.com.

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Avignon | Pont du Gard | L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue | Gordes | Roussillon | Ménerbes

Anchored by the magnificent papal stronghold of Avignon, the Vaucluse spreads luxuriantly east of the Rhône. Its famous vineyards—Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Beaumes-de-Venise—seduce connoisseurs, and its Roman ruins draw scholars and arts lovers alike. Arid lowlands with orchards of olives, apricots, and almonds give way to a rich and wild mountain terrain around the formidable Mont Ventoux and flow into the primeval Luberon, made a household name by Peter Mayle. The hill villages around the Luberon—Gordes and Roussillon among them—are as lovely as any you’ll find in the south of France.

AVIGNON

82 km (51 miles) northwest of Aix-en-Provence, 98 km (59 miles) northwest of Marseille, 229 km (140 miles) south of Lyon.

Avignon is anything but a museum; it surges with modern ideas and energy and thrives within its ramparts as it did in the heyday of the popes—and, like those radical church lords, it’s sensual, cultivated, and cosmopolitan, with a taste for worldly pleasures. Avignon remained papal property until 1791, and elegant mansions bear witness to the town’s 18th-century prosperity. From its famous Palais des Papes (Papal Palace), where seven exiled popes camped between 1309 and 1377 after fleeing from the corruption and civil strife of Rome, to the long, low bridge of childhood-song fame, you can beam yourself briefly into 14th-century Avignon, so complete is the context, so evocative the setting.

Everything worth seeing (except the St. Bénézet Bridge) is confined within the medieval city walls. Most sights cluster around place du Palais, with signs pointing the way. This is the Avignon of the visitors. To see Avignonnais leading their daily lives, however, turn off these tourist paths and get lost among the city’s cobblestone streets. Note that the free Avignon-Villeneuve PASSion (available at the tourist office) gives 10% to 50% reductions on most museums and sites after you buy your first ticket at regular price.

Getting Here and Around

High-speed Méditerranée line trains from Paris (2 hrs, 40 mins) and Nice (3 hrs) pull into the Gare Avignon TGV, 6 km (3.75 miles) southwest of the city; a navette bus can carry passengers on to Avignon’s central station, where regional service is available. The bus terminal next door has connections to Arles (1 hr), Nîmes (1½ hrs), and more. Municipal buses operated by TCRA (www.tcra.fr) will zip you around the city itself for a €1.30 fare; alternately, you can rent a bike at one of 17 Vélopop stations (www.velopop.fr) and pedal away for €1 per hour.

Visitor Information

Avignon Tourist Office. | 41 cours Jean-Jaurès | 04–32–74–32–74 | www.avignon-tourisme.com.

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EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Musée Calvet.

Worth a visit for the beauty and balance of its architecture alone, this fine old museum contains a rich collection of antiquities and classically inspired works. Acquisitions include Neoclassical and Romantic pieces and are almost entirely French, including works by Manet, Daumier, and David. There’s also a good modern section, with works by Bonnard, Duffy, and Camille Claudet (note Claudet’s piece depicting her brother Paul, who incarcerated her in an insane asylum when her relationship with Rodin caused too much scandalous talk). The main building itself is a Palladian-style jewel in pale Gard stone dating from the 1740s; the garden is so lovely that it may distract you from the art. | 65 rue Joseph-Vernet | 04–90–86–33–84 | www.musee-calvet-avignon.com | €6 | Wed.–Mon. 10–1 and 2–6.

Palais des Papes.

This colossal palace creates a disconcertingly fortresslike impression, underlined by the austerity of its interior. Most of the original furnishings were returned to Rome with the papacy; others were lost during the French Revolution. Some imagination is required to picture the palace’s medieval splendor, awash with color and with worldly clerics enjoying what the 14th-century Italian poet Petrarch called “licentious banquets.” On close inspection, two different styles of building emerge at the palace: the severe Palais Vieux (Old Palace), built between 1334 and 1342 by Pope Benedict XII, a member of the Cistercian order, which frowned on frivolity, and the more decorative Palais Nouveau (New Palace), built in the following decade by the artsy, lavish-living Pope Clement VI. The Great Court, entryway to the complex, links the two.

The main rooms of the Palais Vieux are the Consistory (Council Hall), decorated with some excellent 14th-century frescoes by Simone Martini; the Chapelle St-Jean, with original frescoes by Matteo Giovanetti; the Grand Tinel, or Salle des Festins (Feast Hall), with a majestic vaulted roof and a series of 18th-century Gobelin tapestries; the Chapelle St-Martial, with more Giovanetti frescoes; and the Chambre du Cerf, with a richly decorated ceiling, murals featuring a stag hunt, and a delightful view of Avignon. The principal attractions of the Palais Nouveau are the Grande Audience, a magnificent two-nave hall on the ground floor, and, upstairs, the Chapelle Clémentine, where the college of cardinals once gathered to elect the new pope. | Pl. du Palais,6 rue Pente Rapide | 04–32–74–32–74 | www.palais-des-papes.com | €11; €13.50, includes tour of Pont St-Bénéze; audioguide for palace €2, free for bridge. | Mar., daily 9–6:30; Apr.–June, Sept. and Oct., daily 9–7; July, daily 9–8; Aug., daily 9–8:30; Nov.–Feb., daily 9:30–5:45.

Bouteillerie.

For wine lovers, there’s a wine cellar devoted to Côtes du Rhônes at the Bouteillerie of the Popes’ Palace, where you can sample and buy regional wines. The selection changes every year. Although it’s in the palais, you don’t need to pay admission to go to the store. | Pl. du Palais | 04–90–27–50–85 | Daily, with midday closure 1–2.

Pont St-Bénézet (St. Bénézet Bridge).

This bridge is the subject of the famous children’s song: “Sur le pont d’Avignon on y danse, on y danse. . .” (“On the bridge of Avignon one dances, one dances . . . ”). Unlike London Bridge, which fell down in another nursery ditty, Pont St-Bénézet still stretches its arches across the river, but only partway: half was washed away in the 17th century. Its first stones allegedly laid with the miraculous strength granted St-Bénézet in the 12th century, it once reached all the way to Villeneuve. | Port du Rochre | www.palais-des-papes.com | €4.50 includes new tactile PDA audioguide; €13 includes entry to Palais des Papes | Mar., daily 9–6:30; Apr.–June, Sept., and Oct., daily 9–7; July, daily 9–8; Aug., daily 9–8:30; Nov.–Feb., daily 9:30–5:45.

Fodor’s Choice | Rocher des Doms (Rock of the Domes).

Set on bluff above town, this lush hilltop garden has grand Mediterranean pines, a man-made lake (complete with camera-ready swans), plus glorious views of the palace, the rooftops of Old Avignon, the Pont St-Bénézet, and formidable Villeneuve across the Rhône. On the horizon loom Mont Ventoux, the Luberon, and Les Alpilles. The garden has lots of history as well: Often called the “cradle of Avignon,” its rocky grottoes were among the first human habitations in the area. | Montée du Moulin off Pl. du Palais | 04–32–74–32–74 | www.avignon-tourisme.com | Dec.–Jan., daily 7–5:30; Feb. and Nov., daily 7:30–6; Mar., daily 7:30–7; Apr., May, and Sept., daily 7:30–8; June–Aug., daily 7:30–9; Oct., daily 7:30–6:30.

Worth Noting

Cathédrale Notre-Dame-des-Doms.

Built in a pure Provençal Romanesque style in the 12th century, this cathedral was soon dwarfed by the extravagant palace that rose beside it. The 14th century saw the addition of a cupola, which promptly collapsed. As rebuilt in 1425, the cathedral is a marvel of stacked arches with a strong Byzantine flavor and is topped with a gargantuan Virgin Mary lantern—a 19th-century afterthought—whose glow can be seen for miles around. Closed for renovation, the museum will reopen in 2015. | Pl. du Palais | 04–90–86–81–01 | Daily 8–6.

Le Musée du Petit Palais.

This residence of bishops and cardinals before Pope Benedict built his majestic palace houses a large collection of old-master paintings, the majority of which are Italian works from the early-Renaissance schools of Siena, Florence, and Venice—styles with which the Avignon popes would have been familiar. Later works here include Sandro Botticelli’s Virgin and Child, and Venetian paintings by Vittore Carpaccio and Giovanni Bellini. | Pl. du Palais | 04–90–86–44–58 | www.petit-palais.org | €6 | Wed.–Mon. 10–1 and 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT

Fodor’s Choice | Christian Étienne.

FRENCH | Stellar period decor in a renovated 12th-century mansion makes for an impressive backdrop to innovative and delicious cuisine. Try the pan-roasted medaillon of veal with dried porcini blinis and thinly sliced mushrooms with chervil, or splurge for the whole lobster sautéed in olive oil, muscat grapes, and beurre blanc with verjuice. The seasonal truffle menu may be too rich for some (€150), but a €35 lunch menu offers nice balance for budget-conscious travelers. | Average main: €30 | 10 rue de Mons | 04–90–86–16–50 | www.christian-etienne.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Fodor’s Choice | La Fourchette.

FRENCH | The food here is some of the best in town, as the bevy of locals clamoring to get in proves. It all smells so good that you may be tempted to rip one of the decorative forks off the wall and attack your neighbor’s plate. Service is prompt and friendly, and you can dig in to heaping portions of escalope of salmon, chicken cilantro à l’orange, or what is likely the best Provençal daube (served with macaroni gratin) in France. | Average main: €20 | 17 rue Racine | 04–90–85–20–93 | www.la-fourchette.net | Reservations essential | Closed weekends, and 1st 3 wks of Aug.

La Mirande.

FRENCH | Whether you dine under the 14th-century coffered ceilings, surrounded by Renaissance tapestries, or in the intimate garden under the Popes’ Palace walls, the restaurant of the luxurious Hôtel de la Mirande transports you to another time. Chef Julien Allano rediscovers this establishment’s roots with authentic organic menus: pan-seared pike perch, crayfish, and artichokes in a ravioli with Nantua-style sauce, and pork in four different ways with mashed potatoes. Foodies, take note: Tuesday and Wednesday dinners are table d’hôtes, and one week every month the restaurant’s cooking school, Le Marmiton, invites guest chefs to teach casual, multilingual cooking classes for 6 to 12 people around the kitchen table, followed by a feast—and there are classes for children, too. | Average main: €40 | 4 pl. de la Mirande | 04–90–85–93–93 | www.la-mirande.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Tues. and Wed., and Jan.

L’Essentiel.

FRENCH | This chic hot spot is founded on two concepts: a gastronomic restaurant with two set menus (€31 and €43) served in a white tableclothed, Zen-esque atmosphere, and a bar à tatines that serves lip-smacking, grilled open-faced sandwiches, pasta pistou, or salad (about €11) in a brighter, slightly less formal room. Trained by Bardet and Senderens, chef-owner Laurent Chouviat makes his experience apparent with dishes like open ravioli with asparagus and small peas in a creamed basil sauce with garlic or roast cod with confit tomatoes, fresh coriander, and Arborio risotto. The quaint terrace on this side street will allure passersby, but the romantic 17th-century interior courtyard will keep them coming back. There’s a lunch menu for €17 and a glass of wine starts at €5. | Average main: €20 | 2 rue Petite Fusterie | 04–90–85–87–12 | www.restaurantlessentiel.com | Closed Sun. and Mon.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel de la Mirande.

HOTEL | A designer’s dream of a hotel, this petit palais permits you to step into 18th-century Avignon—enjoy painted coffered ceilings, sumptuous antiques, extraordinary handmade wall coverings, and other superb grand siècle touches (those rough sisal mats on the floors were the height of chic back in the Baroque era). The central lounge is a skylighted and jazz-warmed haven. Upstairs, guest rooms are both gorgeous and comfy, with extraordinary baths. The costume-drama dining room is the perfect setting for the restaurant’s sophisticated cuisine, one of the best in Avignon under chef François Secretin. Pros: spectacular setting of the hotel; free bottled water from minibar during your stay. Cons: rooms can be a little stuffy; breakfast is expensive. | Rooms from: €450 | Pl. de la Mirande | 04–90–14–20–20 | www.la-mirande.fr | 25 rooms, 1 suite, 1 apt. | No meals.

Hôtel d’Europe.

HOTEL | This classic vine-covered 16th-century home once hosted Victor Hugo, Napoléon Bonaparte, and Emperor Maximilian; regally discreet, it is notable for its walled, tree-shaded courtyard and an interior filled with Aubusson tapestries, porcelains, and Provençal antiques. Guest rooms are mostly emperor-size, and two suites overlook the Papal Palace. The highly acclaimed restaurant, La Vieille Fontaine (closed Sunday and Monday), is one of Avignon’s best. Pros: authentic historical setting close to everything; perfect as a secluded romantic hideaway. Cons: least expensive rooms are small; high season can make for some noisy evenings. | Rooms from: €194 | 12 pl. Crillon | 04–90–14–76–76 | www.heurope.com | 39 rooms, 5 suites | No meals.

Hotel du Palais des Papes.

HOTEL | With chic ironwork furniture, rich fabrics, and exposed stone and beams, this hotel just off the Place du Palais fulfills fantasies of life in a medieval city. The surroundings are remarkably solid and comfortable, and the tile baths are excellent. Pros: richly atmospheric setting is a perfectly inexpensive way to make the most out of the city; rooms are large and airy and some have city views. Cons: rooms with no air-conditioning can be stuffy in summertime; rooms facing the street can be a little noisy. | Rooms from: €98 | 3 pl. du Palais des Papes | 04–90–86–04–13 | www.hotel-avignon.com | 26 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Festival d’Avignon (Festival d’Avignon).

Held annually over three weeks in July, the Festival d’Avignon has brought the best of world theater to this ancient city since 1947. Avignon’s version of fringe, the OFF Festival (www.avignonleoff.com), is staged at the same time. The two combined host more than 1,500 performances, with the main venue being the Palais des Papes. TIP Tickets go on sale around mid-June and sell out quickly. | 04/90–14–14–14 tickets and information | www.festival-avignon.com

Le Delirium.

An über-cool hangout for live music, performance, and entertainment during the Avignon Festival and on weekends, Le Delirium covers its walls with ongoing exhibits to create a truly artsy atmosphere. | 23 rue de la République | 04–90–85–44–56 | www.ledelirium.net.

Les Ambassadeurs.

This club attracts a mature crowd, but don’t let the well-dressed revelers here fool you: Les Ambassadeurs is not high priced, but rather drinks are decently priced. Dancing ends around 2, Thursday through Saturday. | 27 rue Bancasse | 04–90–86–31–55 | www.clublesambassadeurs.fr.

SHOPPING

Avignon has a cosmopolitan mix of French chains, hip clothing shops (it’s a college town after all), and a few choice boutiques. The pedestrian area has a stretch of stores along rue du Vieux Sextier, rue des Fourbisseurs, and rue des Marchands, where you’ll find Hermès at the corner of place de l’Horlage. But rue de la République is the main shopping artery.

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PONT DU GARD

22 km (13 miles) southwest of Avignon, 37 km (23 miles) southwest of Orange, 48 km (30 miles) north of Arles.

Children may sing about the truncated pont in Avignon, but adults sigh over the towering Pont du Gard. Bridging the Gardon River, the aqueduct is a masterwork of Roman engineering. It looks particularly impressive in the early morning.

Getting Here

Edgard’s B21 bus from Nîmes (35 mins, €1.50) and A15 bus from Avignon (45 mins, €1.50) both stop at Remoulins for the Pont du Gard. If you are coming by car, it’s 14 km (9 miles) southeast of Uzès on the D981.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Pont du Gard.

The ancient Roman aqueduct is shockingly noble in its symmetry, the rhythmic repetition of arches resonant with strength, testimony to an engineering concept that was relatively new in the 1st century AD, when the structure was built under Emperor Claudius. And, unsullied by tourists and by the vendors of postcards and Popsicles that dominate the site later in the day, the nature is just as resonant, with the river flowing through its rocky gorge unperturbed by the work of master engineering that straddles it.

You can approach the aqueduct from either side of the Gardon River. If you choose the south side (Rive Droite), the walk to the pont (bridge) is shorter and the views arguably better. TIP Note there have been reports of break-ins in the parking area, so get a spot close to the booth. Although access to the spectacular walkway along the top of the aqueduct is now off-limits, the sight of the bridge is still a breathtaking experience. | 400 Rte. du Pont du Gard | Vers-Pont-du-Gard | 04–66–37–50–99 | www.pontdugard.fr | €18 for up to 5 people, including parking | Mar.–May and Oct., daily 9–6; June and Sept., daily 9–7; July and Aug., daily 9–8; Nov.–Feb., daily 9–5.

Espaces Culturels.

At the Espaces Culturels, a museum and themed cinema detail the history of the aqueduct; in addition, there is a hands-on children’s area and an interactive exhibition about life in Roman times that covers topics such as archaeology, nature, and water. | Pont du Gard | 04–66–37–50–99 | Included with entry to Pont du Gard | Mar.–May and Oct., daily 9–6; June and Sept., daily 9–7; July and Aug., daily 9–8; Nov.–Feb., daily 9–5.

WHERE TO EAT

La Sommellerie.

FRENCH | This inspired regional restaurant serves local ingredients in deliciously inventive ways. Arguably the best in the area, it’s often full with locals and tourists alike (book ahead). There are some extremely comfortable rooms available in which to sleep off all that great wine, too. | Average main: €26 | 2268 rte. de Roquemaure, 4 km (10 miles) down D17 | Châteauneuf-du-Pape | 04–90–83–50–00 | www.la-sommellerie.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. dinner Oct.–Apr.

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L’ISLE-SUR-LA-SORGUE

26 km (16 miles) east of Avignon, 41 km (25 miles) southeast of Orange.

Crisscrossed by lazy canals and alive with moss-covered waterwheels that once drove its silk, wool, and paper mills, this old valley town retains a gentle appeal—except on Sunday, when it transforms itself into a Marrakech of marketeers, its streets crammed with antiques and brocante stalls. There are also street musicians, food stands groaning under mounds of rustic breads, vats of tapenade, and cloth-lined baskets of spices, plus miles of café tables offering ringside seats to the spectacle. On a nonmarket day life returns to its mellow pace, with plenty of antiques dealers open year-round, as well as fabric and interior-design shops, bookstores, and food stores for you to explore.

Getting Here

Visitor Information

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Tourist Office. | Pl. de la Liberté | 04–90–38–04–78 | www.oti-delasorgue.fr.

EXPLORING

Collégiale Notre-Dame-des-Anges.

L’Isle’s 17th-century church, the Collégiale Notre-Dame-des-Anges, is extravagantly decorated with gilt, faux marble, and sentimental frescoes. The double-colonnade facade commands the center of the Vieille Ville. Visiting hours change frequently, so check with the tourist office.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Jardin du Quai.

FRENCH | This is where local antiques dealers come to eat, and the place feels so welcoming that it would be easy to linger for hours. Chef Daniel Hébet made his name at La Mirande in Avignon and Le Domaine des Andéols in St-Saturnin-lès-Apt before opening this bistro in his own image—young, jovial, and uncompromising when it comes to quality. Off a noisy street near the train station is the gate to this garden haven, with metal tables under the trees and an airy interior with a vintage tile floor. Hébet offers a single set menu at lunch and another at dinner, and the food is so good that no one is complaining at the lack of choice (though he has been known to substitute meat for fish on request): poached egg with truffles, Saint Pierre with a hint of green onion, lobster in ever-so-delicate pastry, and cherry meringue are all delicious. | Average main: €23 | 91 av. Julien Guigue | 04–90–20–14–98 | www.danielhebet.com | Closed Tues. and Wed.

Fodor’s Choice | La Prévôté.

B&B/INN | Five beautifully decorated and freshly painted rooms, each styled with exquisite taste in soft colors and Provence chic, offer an ideal respite after a long day of antiques shopping. Even if you don’t bed down here, you can use the money you saved bargaining on that chipped Quimper vase to splurge on a lunch of tender duckling with lavender honey at the hotel’s delightful restaurant. Pros: price includes breakfast; top dining; antiques-bedecked decor. Cons: a little tricky to find; parking may be difficult. | Rooms from: €160 | 4 bis, rue Jean Jacques Rousseau | 04–90–38–57–29 | www.la-prevote.fr | Reservations essential | 5 rooms | Closed Feb. and Nov. Restaurant closed Wed. Sept.–June and Tues. year-round | Breakfast.

Treasure Hunting

On a Sunday morning in the middle of the high season, l’Isle sur la Sorgue is assuredly the busiest place in France. Idle tourists fill the cafés, the squares buzz with eager conversations, and the more serious market strollers adjust reading glasses and study notebooks crammed with hastily jotted remarks. All this anticipation is for good reason: this is the antiques mecca of the region.

Dealers began settling here in the 1960s and slowly acquired a reputation; these days there are an estimated 300 concentrated in picturesque booths along the main streets. Merchandise ranges from high-quality antiques and garden statuary to quirky collectibles, while the buyers could be big-name designers or first-time visitors with more money than sense. Beware, the dealers know how to sniff out the unprepared and the unwary: do not hesitate to bargain. There are also architectural salvage specialists offering old zinc bars, bistro fittings, and hotel reception booths. Should you succumb, there are transport firms to ship your chosen items around the world.

SHOPPING

Hôtel Dongler.

A major group of antiquaires is found at Hôtel Dongler. | 15 esplanade Robert Vasse | 04–90–38–63–63 | www.hoteldongierantiquites.fr | Open Fri.–Mon., and holidays 10–7.

Le Quai de la Gare.

A tempting selection of brocante is on view at Le Quai de la Gare Friday from 2 to 7, and Saturday through Monday (plus holidays) from 10 to 7. | 4 av. Julien Guigue | 04–90–20–73–42 | www.antiquites-quai-de-la-gare.com.

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Sunday morning flea market.

The famous L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Sunday morning flea market runs from the Place Gambetta up the length of Avenue des Quatre Otages. Vendors start packing up around 1 pm.

Passage du Pont.

Of the dozens of antiques shops in L’Isle, one conglomerate—Passage du Pont (formerly L’Isle aux Brocantes)—concentrates some 40 dealers under the same roof. It’s open Friday afternoons and all day the rest of the week. | 7 av. des Quatre Otages | 06–20–10–58–15.

Un Jour Ailleurs.

For more than 200 years, this store has been making wool blankets, quilts, and bed accessories—sold alongside Brun de Vian Tiran’s cashmere or mohair shawls and scarves. | Pl. Ferdinand Buisson | 04–90–38–50–19.

Village des Antiquaires de la Gare.

One of the most popular antiques shopping grounds is Village des Antiquaires de la Gare, open Saturday through Monday, and holidays, from 10 to 7. | 2 bis, av. de l’Égalité | 04–90–38–04–57 | www.levillagedesantiquairesdelagare.com.

Xavier Nicod.

Higher-end antiques are in plentiful supply at the twin shops of Xavier Nicod et Gérard Nicod. | 9 av. des Quatre Otages | 06–07–85–54–59 | www.xaviernicod.com.

GORDES

35 km (22 miles) east of Avignon.

Gordes was once merely an unspoiled hilltop village; it’s now a famous unspoiled hilltop village surrounded by luxury vacation homes, modern hotels, restaurants, and B&Bs. No matter: the ancient stone village still rises above the valley in painterly hues of honey gold, and its cobbled streets—lined with boutiques, galleries, and real-estate offices—still wind steep and narrow to its Renaissance château, making this certainly one of the most beautiful towns in Provence.

Getting Here

There’s no bus service to Gordes, so you’ll need a car or cab: taxi fare from Avignon is about €75. A cost-friendly alternative is to take the bus from Avignon to Coustellet (€2) and then a taxi (about €5) for the short trip onward.

Visitor Information

Gordes Tourist Office. | Le Chateau | 04–90–72–02–75 | www.gordes-village.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Abbaye de Sénanque.

If you’ve fantasized about Provence’s famed lavender fields, head to the wild valley some 4 kilometers (2½ miles) north of Gordes (via D177), where this photogenic 12th-century Romanesque abbey seemingly floats above a redolent sea of lavender (in full bloom late June to August). Begun in 1150 and completed at the dawn of the 13th century, the church and adjoining cloister are without decoration but still touch the soul with their chaste beauty. Along with the abbeys of Le Thornet and Silvacane, this is one of a trio of “Three Sisters” built by the Cistercian Order in this area. Next door, the enormous vaulted dormitory contains an exhibition on Abbaye de Sénanque’s construction, and the refectory shelters a display on the history of Cistercian abbeys. The few remaining monks here now preside over a cultural center presenting concerts and exhibitions. The bookshop has a huge collection of books about Provence (lots in English). | 04–90–72–05–72 | www.senanque.fr | €7 | Guided tours (in French) only; see website for hrs.

Château de Gordes.

The only way you can get into this château is by paying to see a collection of photo paintings by pop artist Pol Mara, who lived in Gordes. It’s worth the price of admission, though, just to look at the fabulously decorated stone fireplace, created in 1541. Unfortunately, opening hours change constantly (afternoon visits are your best bet). | Pl. Genty Pantaly | 04–90–72–02–75 | €4 | Daily 10–1 and 2–6:30.

Village des Bories.

Just outside Gordes, on a lane heading north from D2, you’ll see signs leading to the Village des Bories. The bizarre and fascinating little stone hovels called bories are found throughout this region of Provence, and here they are concentrated some 20 strong in an ancient community. Their origins are provocatively vague: built as shepherds’ shelters with tight-fitting, mortarless stone in a hive-like form, they may date to the Celts, the Ligurians, even the Iron Age—and were inhabited or used for sheep through the 18th century. A photo exhibition shows other structures, similar to bories, in countries around the world. | 04–90–72–03–48 | www.gordes-village.com | €6 | Daily 9–dusk.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Les Cuisines du Château.

FRENCH | This tiny but deluxe bistro across from the château has daily aioli, a smorgasbord of fresh cod and lightly steamed vegetables crowned with the garlic mayonnaise. Evenings are reserved for intimate, formal indoor meals à la carte—roast Luberon lamb, beef with truffle sauce, and the like. The ‘30s-style bistro tables and architectural lines are a relief from Gordes’s ubiquitous rustic-chic, and there is a revolving array of paintings by local artists, many of which are for sale. There are only 26 seats, so book well in advance. | Average main: €20 | Pl. du Château | 04–90–72–01–31 | Reservations essential | Closed Wed. No dinner Tues., Sept.–May and mid-Jan.–mid-Mar. Closed Nov.–mid-Dec. and mid-Jan.–Easter.

La Bastide de Gordes.

HOTEL | Spectacularly perched on Gordes’s hilltop, the smartly renovated 16th-century Bastide houses traditional and comfortable guest rooms, with a few haut-Provençal accents, and a superb restaurant with an impressive 800 labels in the wine cellar. Manicured lawns and a broad, elegantly appointed, shaded terrace are geared to relaxation, as is the luxe three-level Spa Sisely, which includes a Roman-style steam room, Japanese baths, and a chromatic pool with breathtaking views of the Vallée de Gordes. Pros: views are unmatched in the area; wine cellar is an enthusiast’s dream. Cons: dress code has become increasingly select; service can be correspondingly pretentious. | Rooms from: €395 | Le Village, Rue de la Combe | 04–90–72–12–12 | www.bastide-de-gordes.com | 33 rooms, 6 suites | Closed Jan. and Feb. | No meals.

Le Mas des Romarins.

B&B/INN | This intimate inn atop a hill—the views are lovely—on the outskirts of Gordes is just a five-minute walk to the village. Rooms are clean, well-lighted, and feel spacious—ask for either No. 1, in the main building, which has a seemingly limitless view, or the room with a terrace in the atelier. Whichever one you’re given, you can gaze at the town across the valley while having a buffet breakfast (included) on a sheltered terrace in the morning sun. Oriental rugs, antique furniture, and a pool all add to your contentment. Pros: nights are so quiet you can hear the buzzing of insects in the fields; convenient location. Cons: can be difficult to find; some rooms are small. | Rooms from: €139 | Rte. de Sénanque | 04–90–72–12–13 | www.masromarins.com | 13 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Dec., Jan., and Feb. | Breakfast.

ROUSSILLON

10 km (6 miles) east of Gordes, 45 km (28 miles) east of Avignon.

In shades of deep rose and russet, this quintessential cluster of hilltop houses blends into the red-ocher cliffs from which its stone was quarried. The ensemble of buildings and jagged, hand-cut slopes is equally dramatic, and views from the top look out over a landscape of artfully eroded bluffs that Georgia O’Keeffe would have loved. Roussillon is definitely one of the finalists in Provence’s beauty contest. Unlike neighboring hill villages, though, it offers little of real historic significance; the pleasure of a visit lies in the richly varied colors that change with the light of day, and in the views of the contrasting countryside, where dense-shadowed greenery sets off the red stone with Cézanne-esque severity. There are pleasant placettes (tiny squares) to linger in nonetheless, and a Renaissance fortress tower crowned with a clock in the 19th century; just past it, you can take in expansive panoramas of forest and ocher cliffs. Since the village can get overcrowded with tourists in summer, the best time to visit is in spring or early fall.

Getting Here

The Cavaillon-Roussillon bus runs twice a day, morning and night, and costs €2. The only other way to arrive is by car from the D4.

Visitor Information

Roussillon Tourist Office. | Pl. de la Poste | 04–90–05–60–25 | www.roussillon-provence.com.

EXPLORING

Sentier des Ocres (Ocher Trail).

The Sentier des Ocres starts out from the town cemetery and allows you to wend your way through a magical, multicolor palette de pierres (of rocks) replete with eroded red cliffs and chestnut groves; the circuit takes about 45 minutes. | €2.50, €7 joint ticket with Usine Mathieu Roussillon | July and Aug., daily 9–7:30; Sept. and May, daily 9:30–6:30; Oct. daily 10–5:30; Nov. 1–15, daily 10–4:30; Nov. 16–Dec. and Feb. 14–27, daily 11–3:30; Feb. 28–Mar., daily 10–5; Apr., daily 9:30–5:30; June, daily 9–6:30.

Usine Mathieu de Roussillon (Roussillon’s Mathieu Ocher Works).

The area’s famous vein of natural ocher, which spreads some 25 kilometers (16 miles) along the foot of the Vaucluse plateau, has been mined for centuries, beginning with the ancient Romans, who used it for their pottery. You can visit the old Usine Mathieu de Roussillon to learn more about ocher’s extraction and its modern uses. | On D104 southeast of town | 04–90–05–66–69 | www.okhra.com | €6.50, €7 joint ticket with Sentier des Ochres | Mar.–June and Sept.–Nov., daily 9–1 and 2–6; Dec. and Feb., Wed.–Sun., 9–1 and 2–6; July and Aug., 9–7. Closed Jan.

MÉNERBES

30 km (19 miles) southeast of Avignon.

Perched high on a rocky precipice, Ménerbes is designated one of the “plus beaux villages du France” for good reason. Famous as the former home base of A Year in Provence author Peter Mayle (who has since moved elsewhere in the Luberon), this picturesque community clings to a long, thin hilltop, looming over the surrounding forests like a great stone ship. At its prow juts the Castellet, a 15th-century fortress. At its stern looms the 13th-century Citadelle. These redoubtable fortifications served the Protestants well during the 16th-century Wars of Religion—until the Catholics wore them down with a 15-month siege. Ranking among the region’s most visited villages, it’s now besieged by peak-season tourists.

Getting Here and Around

There is no direct public transport to Ménerbes. The only way to reach it is by car.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Festival Lacoste.

Seven km (4 miles) east of Ménerbes is the eagle’s-nest village of Lacoste, presided over by the once-magnificent Château de Sade, erstwhile retreat of the notorious Marquis de Sade (1740–1814). For some years, Paris couturier Pierre Cardin has been restoring the castle wall by wall, and under his generous patronage the Festival Lacoste takes place here throughout the months of July and August. A lyric, musical, and theatrical extravaganza, events (and their dates) change yearly, ranging from outdoor poetry recitals to ballet to colorful operettas. | Carrières du Château | Lacoste | 04–90–75–93–12 | www.festivaldelacoste.com | €20–€140.

Musée du Tire-Bouchon (Corkscrew museum).

Don’t miss the quirky Musée du Tire-Bouchon, which has an enormous selection of corkscrews on display and interesting historical detail on various wine-related subjects. | Domaine de la Citadelle, Rte. de Cavaillon | 04–90–72–41–58 | www.domaine-citadelle.com | €4 | Apr.–Oct., daily 9–noon and 2–7; Nov.–Mar., Mon.–Sat. 9–noon and 2–7.

Place de l’Horloge (Clock Square).

A campanile tops the Hôtel de Ville on pretty Place de l’Horloge, where you can admire the delicate stonework on the arched portal and mullioned windows of a Renaissance house. Just past the tower on the right is an overlook taking in views toward Gordes, Roussillon, and Mont Ventoux.

WHERE TO STAY

Hostellerie Le Roy Soleil.

B&B/INN | In the imposing shadow of the Luberon, this luxurious 17th-century country inn has pulled out all stops on comfort and decor: witness the marble and granite bathrooms, wrought-iron beds, and coordinated Provençal fabrics. The integrity of its time-burnished building, with thick stone walls, groin vaults, and beams, makes this an especially lovely place to escape to. Pros: softer-than-clouds beds are marvelous; attractive online rates. Cons: some say service can be hit and miss; food sometimes rather ordinary for such a seductive setting. | Rooms from: €110 | Rte. des Beaumettes, D103 | 04–90–72–25–61 | www.roy-soleil.com | 10 rooms, 9 suites, 3 apartments | Restaurant closed mid-Nov.–Mar. | No meals.

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Aix-en-Provence | Marseille | Cassis | Iles d’Hyères

The southeastern portion of this part of Provence, on the edge of the Côte d’Azur, is dominated by two major towns: Aix-en-Provence, considered the main hub of Provence and the most cultural community in the region; and Marseille, a vibrant port city that combines seediness with fashion and metropolitan feistiness with classical grace. To fully experience the dramatic contrast between the azure Mediterranean Sea and the rocky, olive tree–filled hills, take a trip along the coast east of Marseille and make an excursion to the Iles d’Hyères.

AIX-EN-PROVENCE

82 km (51 miles) southeast of Avignon, 176 km (109 miles) west of Nice, 759 km (474 miles) south of Paris.

Gracious, cultivated, and made all the more cosmopolitan by the presence of some 45,000 international university students, the old town of Aix (pronounced ex) was once the capital of Provence. The vestiges of its erstwhile power remain beautifully preserved today; however, individual museums and architectural marvels are overshadowed by the city itself, with its beautiful fountains, elegant hôtels particuliers, and time-burnished streets. Aix’s centre ville is a maze of narrow roadways and it is difficult to keep your sense of direction. Happily, the main drag—the gorgeous tree-lined cours Mirabeau—neatly divides old Aix in half, with the Quartier Ancien’s narrow medieval streets to the north and the 18th-century houses and upscale restaurants of the Quartier Mazarin to the south. At the very center, and always photo-ready, are place Richelme and place de l’Hôtel de Ville, the main squares. You can’t go wrong either ending up or beginning with them.

Romans were first drawn here by mild thermal baths, naming the town Aquae Sextiae (Waters of Sextius) in honor of the consul who founded a camp near the source in 123 BC. Just 20 years later some 200,000 Germanic invaders besieged Aix, but the great Roman general Marius pinned them against the mountain known ever since as Ste-Victoire. Marius remains a popular local first name to this day. Under the wise and generous guidance of Roi (King) René in the 15th century, Aix became a center of Renaissance arts and letters. At the height of its political, judicial, and ecclesiastic power in the 17th and 18th centuries, Aix profited from a building boom, each grand hôtel particulier vying to outdo its neighbor. Its signature courtyards and squares, punctuated by grand fountains and intriguing passageways, date from this time.

It was into this milieu that artist Paul Cézanne (1839–1906) was born, though he drew much of his inspiration from the surrounding countryside and often painted Ste-Victoire. A schoolmate of Cézanne’s made equal inroads: the journalist and novelist Émile Zola (1840–1902) attended the Collège Bourbon with Cézanne and described their friendship as well as the city itself in several of his works. You can still sense something of the ambience that nurtured these two geniuses in the streets of modern Aix.

Getting Here and Around

Aix’s TGV station, 18 km (11 miles) west of the city, receives direct daily trains from Paris (3 hrs); a shuttle connects it with the central station on place Victor Hugo. Arrivals at the latter include almost hourly trains from Marseille St-Charles (40 mins). The heart of Aix is best explored on foot, but municipal buses (€1) cover the city and outlying suburbs; most leave from La Rotonde in front of the tourism office. Regional buses depart from the gare routière on Rue Lapierre, one block west of La Rotonde, for destinations like Marseille (30 mins), Avignon (1 hr, 15 mins), and Arles (1 hr, 30 mins).

Visitor Information

Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office. | Les allées provençales,300 Ave. Giuseppe Verdi | 04–42–16–11–61 | www.aixenprovencetourism.com.

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EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Atelier Cézanne (Cézanne’s Studio).

Just north of the Vieille Ville loop you’ll find Cézanne’s studio. After the death of his mother forced the sale of the painter’s beloved country retreat, Jas de Bouffan, he had this atelier built and some of his finest works, including Les Grandes Baigneuses (The Large Bathers), were created in the upstairs workspace. But what is most striking is the collection of simple objects that once featured prominently in his portraits and still lifes—redingote, bowler hat, ginger jar—all displayed as if awaiting his return. The atelier is behind an obscure garden gate on the left as you climb the Avenue Paul-Cézanne. TIP After-dark shows that take place in July and August include movie screenings in the garden. | 9 av. Paul-Cézanne | 04–42–21–06–53 | www.atelier-cezanne.com | €5.50 | Apr.–June and Sept., daily 10–noon and 2–6; July and Aug., daily 10–6; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–noon and 2–5. Closed Sun. Dec.–Feb.

Cathédrale St-Sauveur.

Many eras of architectural history are clearly delineated and preserved here. The cathedral has a double nave—Romanesque and Gothic side by side—and a Merovingian (5th-century) baptistery, its colonnade mostly recovered from Roman temples built to honor pagan deities. The deep bath on the floor is a remnant of total-immersion baptism. Shutters hide the ornate 16th-century carvings on the portals, opened by a guide on request. The guide can also lead you into the tranquil Romanesque cloister next door, with carved pillars and slender columns.

The extraordinary 15th-century Triptyque du Buisson Ardent (Mary and the Burning Bush) was painted by Nicolas Froment in the heat of inspiration following his travels in Italy and Flanders and depicts the generous art patrons King René and Queen Jeanne kneeling on either side of the Virgin, who is poised above a burning bush. To avoid light damage, it’s rarely opened for viewing; check with the tourist office beforehand. | Pl. des Martyrs de la Résistance | 04–42–23–45–65 | www.cathedrale-aix.net.

Cours Mirabeau.

Shaded by a double row of tall plane trees, the Cours Mirabeau is one of the most beautiful avenues anywhere, designed so its width and length would be in perfect proportion with the height of the dignified 18th-century hôtels particuliers lining it. You can view this lovely assemblage from one of the dozen or so cafés that spill onto the pavement.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Granet.

Once the École de Dessin (Art School) that granted Cézanne a second-place prize in 1856, the former priory of the Église St-Jean-de-Malte now showcases eight of Cézanne’s paintings, as well as a nice collection of his watercolors and drawings. Also hanging in the galleries are works by Bonnard, Picasso, Klee, Rubens, David, and Giacometti. | Pl. St-Jean-de-Malte | 04–42–52–88–32 | www.museegranet-aixenprovence.fr | €4 | June–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 10–7; Oct.–May, Tues.–Sun. noon–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Pavillon de Vendôme.

This extravagant Baroque villa was built in 1665 as a country house for the Duke of Vendome; its position just outside the city’s inner circle allowed the duke to commute discreetly from his official home on the Cours Mirabeau to this retreat, where his mistress, La Belle du Canet, was comfortably installed. The villa was expanded and heightened in the 18th century to draw attention to the classical orders—Ionic, Doric, and Corinthian—on parade in the row of neo-Grecian columns. Inside the cool, broad chambers you can find a collection of Provençal furniture and artwork. Note the curious two giant Atlantes that hold up the interior balcony. | 32 rue Celony | 04–42–91–88–75 | www.aixenprovence.fr | €3.50 | Oct. 15–Apr. 15, Wed.–Mon. 1:30–5; Apr. 16–Oct. 14, Wed.–Mon. 10–6. Closed Jan.

Worth Noting

Église St-Jean-de-Malte.

This 12th-century church served as a chapel of the Knights of Malta, a medieval order of friars devoted to hospital care. The church was Aix’s first attempt at the Gothic style, and it was here that the counts of Provence were buried throughout the 18th century; their tombs (in the upper left) were attacked during the Revolution and have been only partially repaired. | Rue Cardinale and Rue d’Italie.

Jas de Bouffan.

Cézanne’s father bought this lovely estate, whose name translates as “the sheepfold,” in 1859 to celebrate his rise from hatmaker to banker. The budding artist lived here until 1899 and painted his first images of Mont Ste-Victoire—the founding seeds of 20th-century art—from the grounds. Today the salons are empty but the estate is full of the artist’s spirit, especially the Allée des Marronniers out front. The Jas is a mile south of the center of town and can only be visited on tour by booking a minibus seat through the central tourist office, either in person or online. | 80 rte. de Valcros | 04–42–16–10–91 | www.aixenprovencetourism.com | €5.50 | Nov.–Mar., Wed. and Sat. 10 am; Apr. and May, Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 10:30, noon, 3:30, in English at 2; June–Sept., daily 10:30, noon, 3:30, in English at 2; Oct., Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 10:30, noon, 3:30, in English at 2.

Musée des Tapisseries.

Housed in the 17th-century Palais de l’Archevêché (Archbishop’s Palace), this museum showcases a sumptuous collection of tapestries that once decorated the bishops’ quarters. There are 17 magnificent hangings from Beauvais and a series on the life of Don Quixote from Compiègne. Temporary exhibitions offer looks at contemporary textile art. The main opera productions of the Festival d’Aix take place in the broad courtyard. | 28 pl. des Martyrs de la Resistance | 04–42–23–09–91 | www.aixenprovencetourism.com | €3.50 | Oct. 16–Apr. 15, Wed.–Mon. 1:30–5; Apr. 16–Oct. 15, Wed.–Mon. 10–12:20 and 1:30–6. Closed Jan.

WHERE TO EAT

Brasserie Les Deux Garçons.

FRENCH | As you revel in the exquisite gold-ivory decor, which dates from the restaurant’s founding in 1792, it’s not hard to picture the greats—Churchill, Sartre, Picasso, Delon, Belmondo, and Cocteau among them—enjoying a drink under these mirrors. The food is not memorable, but 365 days a year you can savor the linen-decked sidewalk tables that look out to the Cours Mirabeau. | Average main: €24 | 53 cours Mirabeau | 04–42–26–00–51 | www.les2garcons.fr.

La Chimère Café.

FRENCH | Although the decor in this artists’ hangout is a bit overdone, there’s a sense of playful whimsy in the vertically arranged concoctions of fresh, local ingredients garnished with shaved fennel, spun sugar, or drizzled sauces. The prices are reasonable, the atmosphere is lively, there’s an honorable wine selection, and—even better—a Champagne bar—making this an altogether fun place to spend an evening. | Average main: €23 | 15 rue Brueys | 04–42–38–30–00 | www.lachimerecafe.com | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

FAMILY | Lavault.

FRENCH FUSION | Named for its vaulted stone cellar, where you can dine or enjoy your pre-dinner apèro (a better choice decor-wise than the ordinary upstairs), this bistro has a frequently changing menu, but go for the foie gras club if you find it. You can’t go wrong with anything on this menu, though: duck ravioli with foie gras and morels, or sea trout with saffron-mussel risotto are equally tempting. For dessert the white chocolate cheesecake or raspberries in lemon cream make for a light finish. A well-rounded wine list, plenty of wines by the glass, and a good children’s menu make this a good choice for a family lunch. The three-course menu (€36) is the best deal. | Average main: €25 | 24 rue Felibre Gaut | 04–42–38–57–28 | Reservations essential.

WHERE TO STAY

Grand Hotel Nègre-Coste.

HOTEL | This 18th-century townhouse lives up to its prominent Cours Mirabeau position with lavish ground-floor salons, Provençal decor, and large windows. Front rooms are perfect for people-watching with a morning cup of coffee; quieter ones at the back look over the rooftops to the cathedral. Pros: a perfect location for visiting Aix; the welcome is warm; affordable. Cons: rooms, especially those near the elevator, can be noisy; some rooms are quite small; not a lot of sockets for recharging phones, iPads, etc. | Rooms from: €96 | 33 cours Mirabeau | 04–42–27–74–22 | www.hotelnegrecoste.com | 36 rooms, 1 suite | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Pigonnet.

HOTEL | Cézanne painted Ste-Victoire from what is now the large flower-filled terrace of this enchanting abode, and you can easily imagine former guests Princess Caroline, Iggy Pop, and Clint Eastwood swanning their way through the magnificent, pool-adorned, topiary-accented garden or relaxing in the spacious, light-filled guest rooms, each a marvel of decoration—and renovated in 2013. For sheerest Provençal luxe, this place can’t be beat: baby-soft plush rugs, beautifully preserved antique furniture, rich colors of burnt reds, autumn yellows, and delicate oranges prevail. The restaurant’s terrace spills out onto a sculpted green, but the inside dining salon is equally pleasant on a rainy day, thanks to its dazzlingly elegant chandeliers and large picture windows. Pros: unique garden setting in the center of Aix; welcome is friendly; rooms all have large French windows. Cons: reception area has been called stuffy and old-fashioned; some of the antiques are a little threadbare; breakfast is extra (€25). | Rooms from: €360 | 5 av. du Pigonnet | 04–42–59–02–90 | www.hotelpigonnet.com | 40 rooms, 4 suites | No meals.

Quatre Dauphins.

HOTEL | A noble hôtel particulier in the quiet, soigné, and chic Mazarin quarter offers modest but impeccable lodging, with pretty, comfortable little rooms that have been spruced up with boutis (Provençal quilts), Les Olivades fabrics, quarry tiles, jute carpets, and hand-painted furniture. The house-proud but unassuming owner-host works hard to please. Pros: ideal center-of-town location; friendly staff; rooms with showers are cheaper than ones with a bath. Cons: rooms are small; in summer it is impossible to get a room; breakfast is extra. | Rooms from: €80 | 54 rue Roux-Alphéran | 04–42–38–16–39 | www.lesquatredauphins.fr | 13 rooms | No meals.

Villa Gallici.

HOTEL | Hued in the lavenders, blues, ochers, and oranges of Aix, rooms here swim in the most gorgeous Souleiado and Rubelli fabrics: this all conjures up the swank Provence that used to be colonized by Parisian barons and dukes in the 19th century, far from the usual Provençal farmhouse idyll. Little wonder the former archbishop’s palace has become the darling of shelter magazines everywhere. This hilltop garden retreat stands serenely apart from the city center on the outskirts of town (offering great views over the pink roofs of Aix), and that means the shops of Cours Mirabeau are a 15-minute walk away. Pros: rich fabrics and decor create a harmonious look; beautiful environment. Cons: no elevator, some showers are hand held; 15-minute walk from town. | Rooms from: €400 | Av. de la Violette | 04–42–23–29–23 | www.villagallici.com | 22 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

To find out what’s going on in town, pick up a copy of the events calendar L’Agenda Cuturel at the tourist office.

Casino Aix en Provence.

In between bouts at the roulette tables and slot machines of the Casino Aix en Provence, you can grab a bite at one of five restaurants or take in a floor show. | 21 Av. de l’Europe | 04–42–59–69–00 | www.casinoaix.com.

Festival d’Aix en Provence (International Festival of Lyric Art).

Every July during the Festival d’Aix en Provence—also known as the International Festival of Lyric Art—you can see world-class opera productions in the spectacular courtyard of the Palais de l’Archevêché. | 04–42–17–34–00 for information, 08–20–92–29–23 for tickets (€0.12 per min) | www.festival-aix.com.

Le Ballet Preljocaj.

Angelin Preljocaj has created original ballets for the New York City Ballet and the Paris Opera Ballet, and his modern-dance troupe, Ballet Preljocaj, is based at the monolithic Pavillon Noir, designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti. The season runs September to May. The Pavillon hosts an annual series of contemporary ballet and modern dance performances featuring an international roster. | 530 av. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart | 04–42–93–48–00 | www.preljocaj.org.

Le Scat Club.

This is the place for live soul, funk, reggae, rock, blues, and jazz. | 11 rue de la Verrerie | 04–42–23–00–23 | scatclub.free.fr/scatnet.

SHOPPING

In addition to its old-style markets and jewel-box candy shops, Aix is a modern shopping town—perhaps the best in Provence. The winding streets of the Vieille Ville above cours Mirabeau—centered on Rue Clemenceau, Rue Marius Reinaud, Rue Espariat, Rue Aude, and Rue Maréchal Foch—have a head-turning parade of goods.

Béchard.

The most picturesque shop specializing in calissons is the venerable bakery Béchard. | 12 cours Mirabeau | Tues.–Fri. and Sun. 8–7:30, Sat. 8–8.

Leonard Parli.

Near the train station, Leonard Parli offers a lovely selection of calissons. | 35 av. Victor Hugo | www.leonard-parli.com | Mon.–Sat. 9–7.

Santons Fouque.

Aix’s most celebrated santon, or miniature statue, maker is Santons Fouque. | 65 cours Gambetta | 04–42–26–33–38 | www.santons-fouque.com | Daily 9–noon and 2–6.

MARSEILLE

31 km (19 miles) south of Aix-en-Provence, 188 km (117 miles) west of Nice, 772 km (483 miles) south of Paris.

Marseille is sometimes given a wide berth by travelers, but that’s their loss. After all, it is vibrant enough to have been named 2013’s European City of Culture; and the legacy of that honor lives on in a slew of new or renewed cultural attractions. Ten primary ones were inaugurated, either in formerly abandoned buildings (like the old tobacco factory) or purpose-built ones—most notably the glitzy, glassy National Museum of the Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean, otherwise known as MuCEM.

Moreover, the port area (Marseille is France’s leading cruise port, attracting some 700,000 passengers per year) has become a pedestrian zone and benefited from a multimillion-dollar face-lift, which includes a seaside shopping center with 160 restaurants and shops. Even without such enhancements, Marseille’s Cubist jumbles of white stone rising up over the waterfront, bathed in light of blinding clarity and crowned by larger-than-life neo-Byzantine churches, could still dazzle—and literally, too, as the city sees 300 days of sunlight a year.

Neighborhoods here teem with multiethnic life, souklike African markets reek deliciously of spices and coffees, and the labyrinthine Vieille Ville is painted in broad strokes of saffron, cinnamon, and robin’s-egg blue. Feisty and fond of broad gestures, Marseille is a dynamic city, as cosmopolitan now as when the Phoenicians first founded it, and with all the exoticism of the international shipping center it has been for 2,600 years. Vital to the Crusades in the Middle Ages and crucial to Louis XIV as a military port, Marseille flourished as France’s market to the world—and still does today.

If you plan on visiting many attractions, consider buying a City-Pass (€24 for 1 day, €31 for 2) at the tourism office. It covers the entry fee into Marseille’s museums and monuments, plus transport, a ride on the petit train, and a free, guided city tour.

Getting Here and Around

Air travelers land at one of the country’s largest airports, the Aéroport de Marseille Provence. The main train station—Gare St-Charles, on the TGV line—has frequent links with Paris, Nice, and Italy, as well as Aix, Avignon, Arles, and Nîmes. From the gare routière on place Victor Hugo, Cartreize buses connect with the Bouches du Rhône; other coaches connect with Avignon and Nice via Aix-en-Provence. Within Marseille, you can take advantage of an efficient public transit system that includes buses, trams, subways, and water taxis (www.rtm.fr, €1.50 for 90 mins), or hop the free César ferry boat, which crosses the Vieux Port every few minutes.

TIP Le Vélo ( | en.levelo-mpm.fr) is Marseille’s citywide bicycle network. Grab a bike, take it to your destination, and then pick up another when you’re ready to move on. The first 30 minutes are free and a 7-day pass costs only €1.

Visitor Information

Marseille Tourist Office. | 11 la Canebière | 08–26–50–05–00 (€0.15 per min) | www.marseille-tourisme.com.

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EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Abbaye St-Victor.

Founded in the fourth century by St-Cassien, who sailed into Marseille full of fresh ideas on monasticism that he acquired in Palestine and Egypt, this church grew to formidable proportions. With a Romanesque design, the structure would be as much at home in the Middle East as its founder was. The crypt, St-Cassien’s original, is buried under the medieval church, and in the evocative nooks and crannies you can find the fifth-century sarcophagus that allegedly holds the martyr’s remains. Upstairs, a reliquary contains what’s left of St. Victor, who was ground to death between millstones, probably by Romans. There’s also a passage into tiny catacombs where early Christians worshipped St-Lazarus and Mary Magdalene, said to have washed ashore at Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer. | 3 rue de l’Abbaye, Rive Neuve | 04–96–11–22–60 | www.saintvictor.net | Crypt €2 | Daily 9–7.

Centre de la Vieille Charité (Center of the Old Charity).

At the top of the Panier district you’ll find this superb ensemble of 17th- and 18th-century architecture designed as a hospice for the homeless by Marseillais artist-architects Pierre and Jean Puget. Even if you don’t enter the museums, walk around the inner court, studying the retreating perspective of triple arcades and admiring the Baroque chapel with its novel egg-peaked dome. Of the complex’s two museums, the larger is the Musée d’Archéologie Méditerranéenne (Museum of Mediterranean Archaeology), with a sizable collection of pottery and statuary from classical Mediterranean civilization, elementally labeled (for example, “pot”). There’s also a display on the mysterious Celt-like Ligurians who first peopled the coast, cryptically presented with emphasis on the digs instead of the finds themselves. The best of the lot is the evocatively mounted Egyptian collection—the second-largest in France after the Louvre’s. There are mummies, hieroglyphs, and gorgeous sarcophagi in a tomblike setting. Upstairs, the Musée d’Arts Africains, Océaniens, et Amérindiens (Museum of African, Oceanic, and American Indian Art) creates a theatrical foil for the works’ intrinsic drama: the spectacular masks and sculptures are mounted along a pure black wall, lighted indirectly, with labels across the aisle. | 2 rue de la Charité, Le Panier | 04–91–14–58–80 | €3 per museum | Jan.–May, Tues.–Sun. 11–6; June–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 10–6.

OFF THE BEATEN PATH: Château d’If.

In the 16th century, François I recognized the strategic advantage of an island fortress surveying the mouth of Marseille’s vast harbor and built this imposing edifice. Its effect as a deterrent was so successful that the fortress never saw combat, and was eventually converted into a prison. It was here that Alexandre Dumas locked up his most famous character, the Count of Monte Cristo. Though the count was fictional, the hole through which Dumas had him escape is real enough, on display in the cells. On the other hand, the real-life Man in the Iron Mask, whose cell is also erroneously on display, was not imprisoned here. The IF Frioul Express boat ride (from the Quai des Belges, €10; for information call | 04–96–11–03–50) and the views from the broad terrace are worth the trip. | 08–26–50–05–00 | if.monuments-nationaux.fr/en | €5.50 | Apr.–mid-May, daily 9:30–4:45; mid-May–mid-Sept., daily 9:30–6:10; mid-Sept.–Mar., Tues–Sun. 9:30–4:45.

Le Panier.

This is the heart of old Marseille, a maze of high-shuttered houses looming over narrow cobbled streets, montées (stone stairways), and tiny squares. Long decayed and neglected, the quarter is a principal focus of the city’s efforts at urban renewal. In the last few years an influx of Bobos (bourgeois-bohemians) and artists have sparked the gentrification process, bringing charming B&Bs, chic boutiques, lively cafés, and artists’ ateliers. Wander this picturesque neighborhood of pastel-painted townhouses, steep stairways, and narrow streets at will, making sure to stroll along Rue du Panier, the montée des Accoules, Rue du Petit-Puits, and Rue des Muettes.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée d’Histoire de Marseille (Marseille History Museum).

With the Port Antique in front, this modern, open-space museum illuminates Massalia’s history with a treasure of archaeological finds and miniature models of the city as it appeared in various stages of history. Best by far is the presentation of Marseille’s Classical halcyon days. There’s a recovered wreck of a Roman cargo boat, its third-century wood amazingly preserved, and the hull of a Greek boat dating from the 4th century BC. The model of the Greek city should be authentic—it’s based on an eyewitness description by Aristotle. The museum reopened after a stunning €21-million renovation in the summer of 2013. | 9 rue Henri Barbrusse, Vieux Port | 04–91–90–42–22 | musee-histoire-de-marseille.marseille.fr | €5 joint ticket with Jardin des Vestiges | June–Sept., Mon.–Sat. noon–7; Oct.–May, Tues.–Sun. 10–5.

Fodor’s Choice | Navette.

In keeping with the Vieux Port’s substantially spiffed-up image, the Marseille regional transport service now offers an efficient public navette ferry service much like its bus or métro services (with free transfers on both for up to 90 minutes). Although free only with a metro pass, the nominal charge of €3 (available only onboard) is well worth it for the fun and convenience of crossing the port by boat. | Pl. des Huiles on Quai de Rive Neuve side and Hôtel de Ville on Quai du Port, Vieux Port | €3, free with métro pass.

Worth Noting

Cathédrale de la Nouvelle Major.

This gargantuan, neo-Byzantine 19th-century fantasy was built under Napoléon III—but not before he’d ordered the partial destruction of the lovely 11th-century original, once a perfect example of the Provençal Romanesque style. You can view the flashy decor (think marble and rich red porphyry inlay) in the newer of the two churches; the medieval one is being restored. | Pl. de la Major, Le Panier.

Le Port Antique.

This garden in front of the Musée d’Histoire de Marseille stands on the site of the city’s classical waterfront and includes remains of the Greek fortifications and loading docks. Newly restored in 2013, the site, with several nearly intact boats (now exhibited in the museum), was discovered in 1967 when roadwork was being done next to the Bourse (Stock Exchange). | Centre Bourse, Vieux Port | 04–91–90–42–22 | €5 joint ticket with Musée d’Histoire de Marseille | Mon.–Sat. noon–7.

Musée des Civilisations de L’Europe et de la Mediterranée.

After a lengthy renovation, the Museum of the Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean (MuCEM) opened its doors to great fanfare in the summer of 2013. Made up of three sites designed by Rudy Ricciotti, MuCEM is all about new perspectives on Mediterranean cultures. Themes like “the invention of gods,” “the treasures of the spice route,” or “at the bazaar of gender” are explored in Ricciotti’s virtuosic J4 (named for the esplanade). TIP The museum’s popular café, bistro, and restaurant (reservations required), overseen by star-chef Gérald Passédat, are great for refreshment and taking in the views. You can access the 12th-century Fort St-Jean, built by Louis XIV with the guns pointing toward the city, in order to keep the feisty, rebellious Marseillais under his thumb. If you’re not the queasy type, take a suspended footbridge over the sea; it provides spectacular photo ops and never-been-seen panoramas. On the other side, you can visit a new Mediterranean garden and a folk-art collection. A third building—the Center for Conservation and Resources, near the St-Charles train station—holds the museum’s permanent collection of paintings, prints, drawings, photographs, and objects. | Quai du Port, Vieux Port | 04–96–13–80–90 | www.mucem.org | €5 | May–Oct., Wed.–Mon. 11–7; Nov.–Apr., Wed.–Mon. 11–6.

Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde.

Towering above the city and visible for miles around, this overscaled neo-Byzantine monument was erected in 1853 by Napoléon III. The interior is a Technicolor bonanza of red-and-beige stripes and glittering mosaics, and the gargantuan Madonna and Child on the steeple (almost 30 feet high) is covered in real gold leaf. While the panoply of ex-votos, mostly thanking the Virgin for deathbed interventions and shipwreck survivals, is a remarkable sight, most impressive are the views of the seaside city at your feet. | Off bd. André Aune, Garde Hill | On foot, climb up Cours Pierre Puget, cross Jardin Pierre Puget, cross bridge to Rue Vauvenargues, and hike up to Pl. Edon. Or catch Bus 60 from Cours Jean-Ballard | 04–91–13–40–80 | May–Sept., daily 7 am–8 pm; Oct.–Apr., daily 7–7.

WHERE TO EAT

Chez Fonfon.

SEAFOOD | Tucked into the filmlike tiny fishing port Vallon des Auffes, this Marseillais landmark has one of the loveliest settings in greater Marseille. Once presided over by cult chef “Fonfon,” it used to be a favorite movie-star hangout. A variety of fresh seafood, impeccably grilled, steamed, or roasted in salt crust, is served in two pretty dining rooms with picture windows overlooking the fishing boats that supply your dinner. Try classic bouillabaisse served with all the bells and whistles—broth, hot-chili rouille, and flamboyant table-side filleting. | Average main: €40 | 140 rue du Vallon des Auffes, Vallon des Auffes | 04–91–52–14–38 | www.chez-fonfon.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. in winter; Sun. and Mon. lunch in summer. Closed 1st 3 wks in Jan.

Chez Michel.

BRASSERIE | This beachside brasserie near the Pharo gardens is considerd the last word in bouillabaisse and draws a knowing local clientele willing to shell out a few extra euros for this authentic classic (€65). Before dining, the fish are paraded by your table then ceremoniously filleted before being served with all the classic accompaniments: a spicy rouille, buttery croutons. Oysters, whole grilled fish (priced by the kilo), and an authentic garlic-steeped bourride are other fine choices—along with a good selection of great local wines. The bouillabaisse is well worth the splurge, but be sure to reserve in advance. | Average main: €50 | 6 rue des Catalans, Vieux Port | 04–91–52–30–63 | www.restaurant-michel-13.fr | Reservations essential.

Étienne.

PIZZA | A historic Le Panier hole-in-the-wall, this small pizzeria is filled with politicos and young professionals who enjoy the personality of chef Stéphane Cassero, who was once famous for announcing the price of the meal only after he’d had the chance to look you over. Remarkably little has changed over the years, except now there is a posted menu (with prices). Brace yourself for an epic meal, starting with a large anchovy pizza from the wood-burning oven, then fried squid, eggplant gratin, and a slab of rare grilled beef, all served with a background of laughter, rich patois, and abuse from the chef. | Average main: €20 | 43 rue de la Lorette, Le Panier | No credit cards.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Bistro d’Edouard.

BISTRO | A big part of Marseille’s allure is its Mediterranean multiculturalism, which is abundantly expressed at this popular neighborhood tapas restaurant. Red-checked tablecloths and a sunny outdoor terrace add to its low-key Provençal charm, but the food is the real draw here. Simple, flavorful dishes like artichokes drizzled with spicy olive oil, Iberian ham, grilled eggplant, and fresh sardines keep the local crowds coming back. | Average main: €14 | 150 rue Jean Mermoz, Prado | 04–91–71–16–52 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Le Malthazar.

BRASSERIE | This classic Mediterranean brasserie, with brightly tiled floors and a long zinc bar, is the new home of two-star Michelin chef Michel Portos, a native son who threw in the fancy chef’s hat in favor of a more relaxed atmosphere and simpler fare. Portos makes spectacular use of the Old Port’s fish market a few steps from his door, with dishes like shellfish lasagna with tomato confit; roasted sea bass in spicy fish bouillon with classic rouille; or fillet of sole with wild mushrooms, serrano ham, and hazelnut butter. For dessert the passionfruit baba au rhum is a revelation. A well-priced selection of local wines makes everything go down just right. The three-course (€31) menu for lunch or dinner is an excellent value. | Average main: €22 | 19 rue Fortia, Vieux Port | 04–91–33–42–46 | www.malthazar.com | Reservations essential.

Les Arcenaulx.

FRENCH | At this book-lined, red-wall haven in the stylish book-and-boutique complex of a renovated arsenal, you can have a sophisticated regional lunch and read while you’re waiting. If you’ve had your fill of fish, indulge in the grilled filet of beef with fried artichokes with sweet onion. The terrace (on the Italian-scale Cours d’Estienne d’Orves) is as pleasant as the interior. | Average main: €25 | 25 cours d’Estienne d’Orves, Vieux Port | 04–91–59–80–30 | www.les-arcenaulx.com | Closed Sun.

WHERE TO STAY

Alizé.

HOTEL | On the Vieux Port, with front rooms taking in postcard views, this straightforward lodging has been modernized to include tight double-pane windows, slick modular baths, and a laminate-and-all-weather carpeted look. Public spaces have exposed stone and historical details, and a panoramic elevator whisks you to your floor. This is an excellent value for the location, so you can afford to spend €128 for a room with a port view. Pros: ideal location on the waterfront gives access to shops and sights; friendly service. Cons: somewhat generic room decor; Wi-Fi signal may be weak in some rooms; breakfast is extra. | Rooms from: €109 | 35 quai des Belges, Vieux Port | 04–91–33–66–97 | www.alize-hotel.com | 39 rooms | No meals.

Grand Hotel Beauvau Vieux Port.

HOTEL | Genuine old-world charm is on tap at this historic hotel overlooking the Vieux Port, perhaps not surprisingly since it was once favored by Chopin and George Sand. Public rooms have antiques, burnished woodwork, Provençal-style decor, and plush carpets, all of which contribute to the intimate urban hotel’s ambience. Guest rooms are in the same style but have been updated to include all modern comforts. Harbor-view rooms, with balconies high over the fish market, more than justify the splurge and the duplex is particularly good for families. Pros: filled with charm from years past, a landmark with modern amenities; wheelchair accessible; excellent location. Cons: some rooms are a bit dark; breakfast is extra. | Rooms from: €165 | 4 rue Beauvau, Vieux Port | 04–91–54–91–00, 800/637–2873 for U.S. reservations | www.grandhotelbeauvaumarseille.com | 71 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.

Le Petit Nice Passédat.

HOTEL | On a rocky promontory overlooking the sea, this fantasy villa was bought from a countess in 1917 and converted to a sleek hotel-restaurant; happily, the Passédat family has been getting it right ever since, especially in the famous restaurant. Father and son man the exceptional three-Michelin-star kitchen (one of the coast’s best), creating sea-anemone beignets, fresh fish roasted whole, and an entire menu dedicated to bouillabaisse (the restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday). Most rooms are minimalist, with some art deco–cum–postmodern touches, while outside the fetching heated pool is illuminated at night by antique gaslight fixtures. Pros: a memorable (if expensive) hotel experience; breathtaking views; good service. Cons: pool is small (though lovely). | Rooms from: €290 | Anse de la Maldormé, Corniche J.-F.-Kennedy, Endoume | 04–91–59–25–92 | www.passedat.fr | 13 rooms, 3 suites | Closed Sun. and Mon. Nov.–Apr. Restaurant closed Sun. and Mon. | No meals.

Mama Shelter Marseille.

HOTEL | Opened since spring 2012, this is the second boutique hotel brought to you from the Club Med people, the Trigano family. Designed by Philippe Starck, the rooms although smallish try to make you feel as though you’re staying in a shishi hotel—iMacs mounted on the wall—but with cheaper hotel rates. This is really just a place for you lay your head on one of a selection of pillows in between playing tourist. It’s tucked away on a side-street in the Notre-Dame-du-Mont district, near the port (the Baille subway stop is the closest), so within walking distance to lots of funky urban cafés and shops. On the ground floor, you’ll find the restaurant (breakfast €15) with an in-house DJ, a bar that serves some not-to-be-missed cocktails (€12) and an outdoor terrace. Mama Shelter also has a private beach 10 meters from the Skate Park Borély, where you can reserve your chair at reception. The online booking system is super easy, and offers cheaper deals if you don’t take any cancellation options or rates that include breakfast. Pros: 27” iMac in every room (ask for a keyboard at reception)a and free Wi-Fi; free movies on demand. Cons: Corner rooms may have even smaller bathrooms; room cancellation 48-hours before noon France time or you could be charged one night; parking is pricey. | Rooms from: €89 | 64, rue de la Loubière, Notre-Dame-du-Mont | 33/04–84–35–20– 00 | www.mamashelter.com/en/marseille | 123 rooms.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

With a population of nearly 860,000, Marseille is a big city by French standards, with all the nightlife that entails. Arm yourself with the monthly In Situ (a free guide to music, theater, and galleries) or Sortir (a weekly about film, art, and concerts in southern Provence). They’re both in French.

Abbaye St-Victor.

Classical music concerts are given in the Abbaye St-Victor. | 3 rue de l’Abbaye, Vieux Port | 04–91–05–84–48 for information | saintvictor.chez.com.

La Caravelle.

Restaurant by day, bluesy jazz club and tapas bar by night (in the Hotel Belle Vue), La Caravelle hearkens back to prewar jazz clubs, but without the smoke. There are great views over the port and live jazz two nights a week. | 34 quai du Port, Vieux Port | 04–91–90–36–64 | www.lacaravelle-marseille.com.

Opéra Municipal de Marseille.

Operas and orchestral concerts are held at the Opéra Municipal. | 2 rue Molière, Vieux Port | 04–91–55–11–10 | opera.marseille.fr.

Red Lion.

This bar is a mecca for English-speakers, who pour onto the sidewalk, pints in hand, pub-style. There’s live music, DJs on the weekend, and a lounge for the diehard rugby and football fans who can’t go without watching a match. | 231 av. Pierre Mendès France, Vieux Port | 04–91–25–17–17 | www.pub-redlion.com.

SHOPPING

Savon de Marseille (Marseille soap) is a household standard in France, often sold as a satisfyingly crude and hefty block in odorless olive-oil green. But its chichi offspring are dainty pastel guest soaps in almond, lemon, vanilla, and other scents.

Savonnerie Marseillaise Licorne.

One of Marseille’s oldest traditional manufacturers sells the fragrant savon in blocks, ovals, or fanciful shapes. This soapmaker uses the highest olive oil content possible (72%) in the soaps, and only natural essential oils from Provence for the fragrances. Call ahead for a guided tour (in English) of this atmospheric factory—a great way to see the whole process done on traditional machines. | 34 Cours Julien, Cours Julien | 04–96–12–00–91 | www.savon-de-marseille-licorne.com | Weekdays 9–7, Sat. 10–7.

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CASSIS

30 km (19 miles) southeast of Marseille.

Stylish without being too recherché, Cassis exudes pure, unadulterated charm. Back in the 19th century, famed author Colette raved about it, and many visitors understandably do the same today. Surrounded by vineyards and monumental cliffs, guarded by the ruins of a medieval castle, and nestled around a picture-perfect fishing port that’s framed by pastel houses set at Cubist angles, this is the prettiest coastal town in Provence.

The Château de Cassis has loomed over the harbor since the invasions of the Saracens in the 7th century, evolving over time into a walled enclosure crowned with stout watchtowers. It’s private property today and best viewed from a port-side café as you savor a bottle of cassis and a platter of sea urchins.

From Cassis, head east out of town and cut sharply right up the route des Crêtes. This road takes you along a magnificent crest over the water and up to the very top of Cap Canaille. Venture out on the vertiginous trails to the edge, where the whole coast stretches below.

Getting Here

Hourly trains from Marseille stop at Cassis; from the station, a shuttle (€1) will take you to the town center. If you’re driving, the D559 from Marseille to Cassis is dramatically beautiful.

Visitor Information

Cassis Tourist Office. | Quai des Moulins | 08–92–25–98–92 | www.ot-cassis.com.

EXPLORING

Les Calanques.

You can’t visit Cassis without touring the calanques, the fjord-like finger bays that probe the rocky coastline. Either take a sightseeing cruise or hike across the cliff tops, clambering down the steep sides to these barely accessible retreats. Or you can combine the two, going in by boat and hiking back; make arrangements at the port. The calanque closest to Cassis is the least attractive: Port Miou was a stone quarry until 1982, when the calanques became protected sites. Now it’s an active leisure and fishing port. Calanque Port Pin is prettier, with wind-twisted pines growing at angles from the white-rock cliffs. But it’s the third calanque that’s the showstopper: the Calanque En Vau is a castaway’s dream, with a tiny beach at its root and jagged cliffs looming overhead. The series of massive cliffs and calanques stretches all the way to Marseille.

Icard Maritime.

Note that boats make round-trips several times a day to the Calanques de Cassis from Marseille’s Quai de la Fraternité (Quai des Belges). Tours are organized by various firms, including Icard Maritime, with a three-hour round-trip costing around €26. | 1 quai Marcel Pagnol | Marseille | visite-des-calanques.com.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Chaudron.

BISTRO | Just off Cassis’s picturesque port, locals and visitors alike flock to this welcoming bistro and terrace serving classic Provençal meals on one of the town’s charming backstreets. Family-run since 1970, the owners have had plenty of time to perfect their game, and it shows. This being Cassis, fish is a mainstay on the menu; start with gratin of mussels followed by roasted John Dory with Provençal vegetables, or spicy fish soup, all to be savored with the local Cassis wines. | Average main: €22 | 4 rue Adolphe Thiers | 04–42–01–74–18 | Reservations essential | No dinner Tues. No lunch Mon.–Sat. Mar.–Nov. No lunch July and Aug.

Les Roches Blanches.

HOTEL | First built as a private home in 1887, this cliff-side villa takes in smashing views of the port and the Cap Canaille, both from the best rooms and from the panoramic dining hall. The beautifully landscaped terrace is shaded by massive pines, and the horizon pool appears to spill into the sea. Yet the aura is far from snooty or deluxe; it’s friendly and low-key. Meal plans are available. Pros: sweeping vistas are captivating; service is quick and friendly; 75% of rooms have balconies. Cons: can be hard to find; breakfast is expensive. | Rooms from: €180 | Rte. des Calanques | 04–42–01–09–30 | www.roches-blanches-cassis.com | 19 rooms, 5 suites | Closed Nov.–Mar. | No meals.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

To go on a boat ride to Les Calanques, arrive at the port around 9:30 and look for a vessel that’s loading passengers. Round-trips should include visits to at least three calanques and average €18. To hike the calanques, gauge your skills: the GR98 (marked with red-and-white bands) is the most scenic, but requires scrambling to get down the sheer walls of En Vau. The alternative is to follow the green markers and approach En Vau from behind. If you’re ambitious, you can hike the length of the GR98 between Marseille and Cassis, following the coastline.

ILES D’HYÈRES

32 km (20 miles) off coast south of Hyères.

Spanning some 32 km (20 miles), this southeastern archipelago could be a set for a pirate movie; in fact, it has been featured in several, thanks to a soothing microclimate and a wild, rocky coastline dotted with palms. Real pirates have made an appearance, too: in the 16th century the islands were seeded with convicts to work the land, but they soon ran amok and used their adopted base to ambush ships heading into Toulon. A more honest population claims the islands today, which are made up of three main areas. Port-Cros is a national park, with both its surface and underwater environs protected. Levant has been taken over, for the most part, by nudists.

Porquerolles is the largest and best of the lot—and a popular escape from the modern world. Off-season, it’s a castaway delight of pine forests, sandy beaches, and vertiginous cliffs above rocky coastline. Inland, its preserved pine forests and orchards of olives and figs are crisscrossed with dirt roads to be explored on foot or on bikes; except for the occasional jeep or work truck, the island is car-free. In high season (April to October), day-trippers pour off the ferries and surge to the beaches.

Getting Here

To reach the islands, follow the narrow Giens Peninsula to La Tour-Fondue, at its tip. Boats leave every half hour in summer, every 60 or 90 minutes the rest of year, making a 20-minute beeline to Porquerolles (€17.30 round-trip). For Port-Cros and Levant, depart from Port d’Hyères at Hyères-Plages (www.tlv-tvm.com).

WHERE TO STAY

Les Glycines.

B&B/INN | In soft shades of yellow-ocher and sky-blue, this sleekly modernized little bastide has an idyllic enclosed courtyard, as well as some lovely guest rooms with views over a jungle of mimosa and eucalyptus. Public salons have Provençal chairs and fabrics. The restaurant, where food is served on the terrace or in the garden, proffers port-fresh tuna and sardines. Prices include breakfast and dinner. Pros: quiet and simply elegant; set just back from the port in the village center. Cons: some rooms are small; beds can be creaky. | Rooms from: €340 | Pl. d’Armes | Ile de Porquerolles | 04–94–58–30–36 | www.auberge-glycines.com | 8 rooms, 3 suites | Some meals.

Mas du Langoustier.

HOTEL | A fabled forgetaway, the Langoustier comes with a lobster-orange building, pink bougainvillea, a choice of California-modern- or old-Provençal-style guest rooms, and a secluded location at the westernmost point of the Ile de Porquerolles. Moreover, it has a Michelin-starred restaurant, L’Olivier, where executive chef Joël Guillet and his head chef Julien Le Goff prepare inspired southern French cuisine (the rare island rosé is a fitting accompaniment). Note that room rates include breakfast and dinner—the former can be enjoyed in your room or on the terrace, while the latter is served in a second onsite restaurant, La Pinède. Pros: a bastion of taste; can “upgrade” to dinner at L’Olivier; beach nearby and pool on-site. Cons: a hike to get here; no rooms have a sea view. | Rooms from: €210 | Pointe du Langoustier, 3 km (2 miles) from harbor | Ile de Porquerolles | 04–94–58–30–09 | www.langoustier.com | 44 rooms, 5 apartments | Closed Oct.–Apr. Restaurants closed Sun. dinner and Mon., May, June, and Sept. | Some meals.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to The French Riviera

The Western French Riviera

The Hill Towns

Nice

The Eastern French Riviera

Monaco

Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner

Updated by Nancy Heslin

You may build castles in Spain or picture yourself on a South Sea island, but when it comes to serious speculation about how to spend that first $10 million and slip easily into the life of the idle rich, most people head for the French Riviera.

This is where the azure waters and indigo sky begin, where balustraded white villas edge the blue horizon, the evening air is perfumed with jasmine, and parasol pines are silhouetted against sunsets of ripe apricot. As emblematic as the sheet-music cover for a Jazz Age tune, the French Riviera seems to epitomize happiness, a state of being the world pursues with a vengeance.

But the Jazz Age dream confronts modern reality: on the hills that undulate along the blue water, every cliff bristles with cubes of hot-pink cement and balconies of ironwork, each skewed to catch a glimpse of the sea and the sun. Like a rosy rash, these crawl and spread, outnumbering the trees and blocking each other’s views. But the Côte d’Azur (or Azure Coast) has always been exceedingly popular, starting with the ancient Greeks, who were drawn eastward from Marseille to market their goods to the natives. From the 18th-century English aristocrats who claimed the coast as one vast spa, to the 19th-century Russian nobles who transformed Nice into a tropical St. Petersburg, to the 20th-century American tycoons who cast themselves as romantic sheiks, the beckoning coast became a blank slate for their whims. Like the modern vacationers who followed, they all left their mark—villas, shrines, Moroccan-fantasy castles—temples all to the sensual pleasures of the sun and the sultry sea breezes. Artists, too, made the French Riviera their own, as museumgoers who have studied the sunny legacy of Picasso, Renoir, Matisse, and Chagall will attest.

Today’s admirers can take this all in, along with the Riviera’s textbook points of interest: animated St-Tropez; the Belle Époque aura of Cannes; the towns made famous by Picasso—Antibes, Vallauris, Mougins; the urban charms of Nice; and a number of spots where the per-capita population of billionaires must be among the highest on the planet: Cap d’Antibes, Villefranche-sur-Mer, and Monaco. The latter, once a Belle Époque fairyland, now has enough skyscrapers to earn it the nickname of the Hong Kong of the Riviera. The ghosts of Grace Kelly and Cary Grant must have long since gone elsewhere.

But with just a little luck and a bus ride or two, you can find towns and villages far from the madding crowd, especially if you head to the low-lying mountains known as the arriére-pays (backcountry). Here, medieval stone villages cap rocky hills and play out scenes of Provençal life, with games of boules and slowly savored drinks of pastis (the anise-and-licorice-flavor spirit). Some of them—Èze, St-Paul, Vence—may have become virtual Provençal theme parks but even so you’ll probably find a gorgeous and deserted Riviera alleyway hidden in one of their cobblestone mazes.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Mingle with Picasso and company: Because artists have long loved the Côte d’Azur, it’s blessed with superb art museums, including the Fondation Maeght in St-Paul and the Musée Picasso in Antibes.

Soak up the scene in St-Tropez: Brave the world’s most outlandish fishing port in high summer, but don’t forget the sunglasses and sunblock.

Step into the toy kingdom of Monaco: On your foray into one of the world’s most expensive addresses, you’ll encounter tropical gardens, Belle Époque grace notes, casinos, and skyscrapers.

Take in the views from Èze: An island in the sky, Èze has some of the most breathtaking views this side of a NASA space capsule.

Get a sense of the Old Riviera in Nice: With its bonbon-color palaces, blue Baie des Anges, and time-stained Old Town, this is one of France’s most colorful and fabled cities.

GETTING ORIENTED

The French Riviera can supply visitors with everything their hearts desire—and the purse can stand. Home to sophisticated resorts beloved by billionaires, remote hill villages colonized by artists, Mediterranean beaches, and magnificent views, the Côte d’Azur (to use the French name) stretches from Marseille to Menton. Thrust out like two gigantic arms, divided by the Valley of the Var at Nice, the peaks of the Alpes-Maritimes throw their massive protection, east and west, the length of the favored coast all the way from St-Tropez to the Italian frontier.

WHAT’S WHERE

St-Tropez to Antibes. Put on the map by Brigitte Bardot, St-Tropez remains one of France’s ritziest vacation spots, small and laid-back. Conspicuous consumption characterizes the celluloid city of Cannes when its May film fest turns it into Oscar-goes-to-the-Mediterranean, but the Louis Vuitton set enjoys this city year-round. For the utmost in Riviera charm, head up the coast to Antibes: once Picasso’s home, it has a harbor and an Old Town so dreamy you’ll be reaching for your paintbrush.

The Hill Towns. High in the hills overlooking Nice are the medieval walled villages of St-Paul-de-Vence and Vence, invaded by waves of artists in the 20th century. Today, you can hardly turn around without bumping into a Calder mobile, and top sights include the famous inn La Colombe d’Or, Matisse’s sublime Chapelle du Rosaire, and the Fondation Maeght—probably the best museum this side of the Louvre.

Nice. Walking along the seaside promenade des Anglais is one of the iconic Riviera experiences. Add in top-notch museums, a charming old quarter, scads of ethnic restaurants, and a world-class Carnival, and Nice is one of France’s most rewarding cities.

The Eastern Côte d’Azur. The 24-karat sun shines most brightly on the glamorous ports of Villefranche-sur-Mer and St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. If you want to kiss the sky, head up to the charming, mountaintop village of Èze. To the east of glittering Monaco—looking more like Manhattan every day—lies Menton, an enchanting Italianate resort where winters are so mild that lemon trees bloom in January.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

Unless you enjoy jacked-up prices, traffic jams, and sardine-style beach crowds, avoid the coast like the plague in July and August. Many of the better restaurants simply shut down to escape the coconut-oil crowd, and the Estérel—the rocky hillside that overlooks the Mediterranean—is closed to hikers during this flash-fire season. Cannes books up early for the film festival in May, so aim for another month (April, June, September, or October). Between Cannes and Menton, the Côte d’Azur’s gentle microclimate usually provides moderate winters; it’s protected by the Estérel from the mistral wind that razors through places like St-Raphaël.

Although the area is famous for having more than 340 days of sunshine per year, locals will say winter (November–early March) is cold, rainy, and miserable; in recent years, official snow days—complete with surging sea waves and road closures—have even hit parts of the coast at the end of January. This is a sign that Nice’s Carnaval is around the corner.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

If you’re settling into one town and making day trips, it’s best to divide your time by visiting west and then east of Nice. Parallel roads along the corniches provide access into towns with different personalities, and the A8 main autoroute makes motoring from Monaco to St-Raphaël a breeze (just keep spare change handy, as there’s a toll to use different parts of it—€2.90 between Cannes and Nice, for example). The coastal train is equally efficient. Tear yourself away from the coastal plages (beaches) at some point to visit the perched villages that this region is famed for. Reach them via the Route Napoléon (N98), the D995, or the corniche roads, and plan on at least one overnight stop.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

The less budget-conscious can consider buzzing around by helicopter (there are heliports in Monaco, Nice, Cannes, St-Tropez, and some of the hill towns) or by speedboat (providing service to all resort towns), but affordable transport along the Riviera translates to the train, the bus, or a rental car. Trains access major coastal areas, and most of the gares (train stations) are in town centers. Note that only a handful of hill towns have train stations, and St-Tropez is not on the rail line. The bus network between towns is fantastic, and a helpful website www.ceparou06.fr allows you to calculate your route anywhere in the Alpes-Maritime region. Renting a car is a good option, and the network of roads here is well marked and divided nicely into slow and very curvy (Bord de Mer Coast Road), faster and curvy (route National 98), and fast and almost straight (Autoroute A8).

Air Travel

Nice, the main point of entry for the French Riviera, is home to France’s second-largest airport—the Aéroport Nice-Côte d’Azur. Located 7 km (4 miles) southwest of the city, it’s linked to Nice by the No. 98 and No. 99 Lignes d’Azur buses (08–10–06–10–06 | www.lignesdazur.com), which loop to the bus and train station respectively (€6). Rapides Côtes d’Azur (04–93–85–64–44 | www.rca.tm.fr) also provides regular airport shuttle service to Nice, Cannes, Antibes, Monte Carlo, and Menton (€10–€20). Avoid taxis, though, as they’ll only rip you off.

Contact

Aéroport Nice-Côte d’Azur. | 08–20–42–33–33 | www.nice.aeroport.fr.

Boat Travel

The Côte d’Azur is one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world, and there are several companies that allow you to savor its scenery from the water. April through October, shuttle boats operated by Les Bateaux Verts (04–94–49–83–39 | www.bateauxverts.com) make the trip between St-Tropez and Ste-Maxime in 15 minutes (return €15). Trans Côte d’Azur vessels (04–92–00–42–30 | www.trans-cote-azur.com), departing from Nice and Cannes, go to Corniche de l’Estérel (return €28–€47), Monaco (return €30–€52), and St-Tropez (return €48–€63); note that some routes are only available from June to October.

Bus Travel

Trains are quickest if you’re traveling along the coast, but to reach backcountry spots not on the rail line—such as St-Paul-de-Vence and Vence—buses fill the gap. Lignes d’Azur (08–10–06–10–06 | www.lignesdazur.com) runs ones to 24 communes in the Alpes-Maritimes for the bargain price of €1.50 (an exception is the Nice airport bus, which costs €6). The Envibus line (04–89–87–72–00 | www.envibus.fr), which originates in Antibes, covers that city before heading into the hills; going west to Cannes or east to Nice, for instance, you jump on the No. 200 (€1.50). From St-Tropez’s station on Avenue du Général de Gaulle, VarLib buses (04–94–24–60–00 | www.varlib.fr) travel to and from St-Raphaël, the town with the nearest railway station (1½ hrs, €3). In high season, traffic can lead to two-plus-hour bus rides, so if it may be wiser to take a Bateaux Verts shuttle boat between the two ports. Bus schedules are available at tourist offices and at the local gare routière (bus station).

TIP You must hail buses; don’t presume the driver sees you. Drivers give change and hand you a ticket, which you must get stamped (composté) in the ticket validator and keep as proof of payment, as inspectors often board buses to check.

Car Travel

The best way to explore the secondary sights in this region is by car. Driving allows you the freedom to zip along A8 between the coastal resorts of St-Raphaël and Menton, and lets you enjoy the views provided by the three corniches that trace the shoreline from Nice to the Italian border. The scenic N98 follows the coast more closely, connecting Mediterranean towns in between, but it can be slow. If you’re coming from Paris, the main southbound artery is A6/A7, known as the Autoroute du Soleil; it passes through Provence and joins the eastbound A8 at Aix-en-Provence.

Train Travel

Nice is the major rail crossroads for trains arriving from Paris, other northern cities, and from Italy, too. To reach Nice from Paris (with stops along the coast), you can take the TGV, though it only maintains high speeds to Valence.

You can easily move along the coast between Cannes, Nice, and Ventimiglia on the slick double-decker Côte d’Azur line, a dramatic and highly tourist-pleasing branch of the SNCF, with more than 40 trains a day. This line is also called the Marseille–Vintimille (Ventimiglia, in Italy). Some of its main stops are Antibes (30 mins), Cannes (40 mins), Menton (30 mins), and Monaco (20 mins); others include Villefranche-sur-Mer, Beaulieu, and Èze-sur-Mer.

For the western parts of the French Riviera, head to St-Raphaël, where the rail route begins its scenic crawl along the coast. There’s no rail access to St-Tropez; St-Raphaël is the nearest stop. TIP “Tarifs prem” are the cheapest train fares available from SNCF on a limited number of TGV tickets purchased 90 days before travel date, but there is no exchange. “Loisir” fares are flexible and offer peace of mind for the spontaneous traveler.

Contacts

SNCF. | 36–35 €0.34 per min | www.sncf.com.

TGV. | 36–35 €0.34 per min | www.tgv.com.

RESTAURANTS

Even in tiny villages some haute-cuisine places can be as dressy as those in Monaco, if not more so, but restaurants on the Côte d’Azur are generally quite relaxed. At lunchtime, a T-shirt and shorts are fine in all but the fanciest spots; bathing suits, however, should be kept for the beach. Nighttime wear is casual, too—just be aware that for after-dinner drinks, many clubs and discos draw the line at running shoes. Food plays a crucial role in the south of France, and some of the best eateries aren’t so easy to access; make sure to include taxi money in your budget to get to some of the more remote restaurants, or plan on renting a car. Try to come in truffle, lavender, or olive season.

HOTELS

It’s up in the hills above the coast that you’ll find the charm you expect from France, both in sophisticated hotels with gastronomic restaurants and in friendly mom-and-pop auberges (inns); the farther north you drive, the lower the prices. Of course, certain areas of the Riviera book up faster than others, but all hit overload from June to September. It’s essential to reserve lodgings in advance; up to half a year for the summer season is not unheard of, and is, in fact, much appreciated. Festivals and good weather will also affect your chances. If you arrive without a reservation, try the tourist information centers, which can usually be of help. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

For information on travel around St-Tropez, contact the Tourisme du Var. For Marseille to Cannes over to Menton, contact the Comité Regional du Tourisme de Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur.

Contacts

Comité Regional du Tourisme de Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. | 61 La Canabière, | Marseille | 04–91–56–47–00 | www.tourismepaca.fr.

Tourisme du Var (L’Agence de Développement Touristique). | 1 bd. de Strasbourg, BP 5147, | Toulon | 04–94–18–59–60 | www.visitvar.fr.

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St-Tropez | Fréjus | St-Raphaël | Mandelieu–La Napoule | Cannes | Juan-les-Pins | Cap d’Antibes | Antibes

Flanked at each end by subtropical capes and crowned by the red-rock Estérel, this section of the coast has a variety of waterfront landmarks. St-Tropez first blazed into fame when it was discovered by painters like Paul Signac and writers like Colette, and since then it has never looked back. It remains one of the most animated stretches on the French Riviera, getting flooded at high season with people who like to roost at waterfront cafés to take in the passing parade. St-Tropez vies with Cannes for name recognition and glamour, but the more modest resorts—such as St-Raphaël—offer a more affordable Riviera experience. Historic Antibes and jazzy Juan-les-Pins straddle the subtropical peninsula of Cap d’Antibes.

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ST-TROPEZ

73 km (45 miles) southwest of Cannes, 106 km (66 miles) southwest of Nice.

At first glance, St-Tropez really doesn’t look all that lovely: there’s a moderately pretty port full of bobbing boats, a picturesque Vieille Ville (Old Town) in candied-almond hues, sandy beaches, and old-fashioned squares with plane trees and pétanque players. So what made St-Tropez a household name? In two words: Brigitte Bardot. When this pulpeuse (voluptuous) teenager showed up in St-Tropez on the arm of the late Roger Vadim in 1956 to film And God Created Woman, the world snapped to attention. Neither the gentle descriptions of writer Guy de Maupassant (1850–93) nor the watercolor tones of impressionist Paul Signac (1863–1935), nor even the stream of painters who followed him (including Matisse and Bonnard), could focus the world’s attention on this seaside hamlet as could this one luscious female, in head scarf, Ray-Bans, and capri pants. With the film world following in her steps, St-Tropez became the hot spot it—to some extent—remains.

Although anything associated with the distant ages seems almost absurd here, the place does have a history that predates the invention of the bikini. People have been finding reasons to come since AD 68, when a Roman soldier named Torpes was beheaded for professing his Christian faith in front of Emperor Nero, transforming this spot into a pilgrimage site. To get a sense of the past, wake early (before the 11 am breakfast rush at port-side spots lining quai Suffern and quai Jean-Jaurès) and wander the narrow medieval backstreets by yourself—the rest of the town will still be sleeping off the Night Before. At this hour, you can experience what the artists found to love: the soft light, warm pastels, and the scent of the sea wafting in from the waterfront. Later, when you’re tired, you can sit under a colored awning at a cute café and watch simply the spectacle that is St-Trop (trop in French means “too much”) saunter by.

Getting Here

You can only reach St-Trop by car, bus, or boat (from nearby ports like St-Raphaël). If you’re driving, take the N98 coastal road (the longest route but also the prettiest, with great picnic stops along the way); once here, paid parking is available at the Parking du Port lot (opposite the bus station on Avenue du Général de Gaulle) and the Parc des Lices (beneath the Place des Lices in the center of town). A train-bus connection from Nice is another option; trains run from Nice’s Centre-Ville station to St-Raphaël (€11.70), where you can catch a VarLib bus for the 90-minute ride onward (€3). June to September, Trans Côte d’Azur also has daily boat trips from Nice (2½ hrs, about €55 return).

Visitor Information

St-Tropez Tourist Office. | Quai Jean-Jaurès, BP 183 | 04–94–97–45–21 | www.ot-saint-tropez.com.

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EXPLORING

Citadelle.

Head up Rue de la Citadelle to these 16th-century ramparts, which stand in a lovely hilltop park offering a fantastic view of the town and the sea. Amid today’s bikini-clad sun worshippers it’s hard to imagine St-Tropez as a military outpost, but inside the Citadelle’s dungeon the modern Musée de l’histoire maritime tropézienne (St-Tropez Maritime Museum), which opened in 2013, proves otherwise with its stirring homage to those who served the nation. | Rue de la Citadelle | 04–94–97–59–43 | Citadelle and/or museum €3 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–6:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–12:30 and 1:30–5:30.

FAMILY | La Maison des Papillons.

A block west of Rue Clémenceau, in a pretty house at the end of a typically Tropezien lane, the butterfly museum is a delight for children (and their parents). Sweetly aflutter, the 35,000 specimens can be toured by appointment with the collector, Dany Lartigue. | 9 rue Étienne Berny | 04–94–97–63–45 | €3 | Apr.–Oct., Mon.–Sat. 2:30–6.

Musée de l’Annonciade (Annunciation Museum).

The legacy of the artists who loved St-Tropez has been carefully preserved in this extraordinary museum, housed in a 14th-century chapel just inland from the southwest corner of the Vieux Port. Cutting-edge temporary exhibitions keep visitors on their toes while works stretching from Pointillists to Fauves to Cubists line the walls. Signac, Matisse, Braque, Dufy, Vuillard, and Rouault are all here, and their work traces the evolution of painting from Impressionism to Expressionism. Temporary exhibits feature local talent and up-and-coming international artists. | Quai de l’Épi/Pl. Georges Grammont | 04–94–17–84–10 | €6 | Dec.–Oct., Wed.–Mon. 10–1 and 2–6.

Place des Lices.

Enjoy a time-out in the the social center of the Old Town, also called the Place Carnot, just off the Montée G.-Ringrave as you descend from the Citadelle. A symmetrical forest of plane trees provides shade to rows of cafés and restaurants, skateboarders, children, and grandfatherly pétanque players. The square becomes a moveable feast (for both eyes and palate) on market days—Tuesday and Saturday—while at night a café seat is as coveted as a quayside seat during the day. Just as Deborah Kerr and David Niven once did in Bonjour Tristesse, watch the boule players under the glow of hundreds of electric bulbs. Heading back to the Vieux Port area, take in the boutiques lining Rues Sibilli, Clemenceau, or Gambetta to help accessorize your evening look—you never know when that photographer from Elle will be snapping away at the trendoisie. | Av. Foch and Bd. Vasserot.

Quartier de la Ponche.

This old town maze of backstreets and ramparts is daubed in shades of gold, pink, ocher, and sky-blue. Trellised jasmine and wrought-iron birdcages hang from the shuttered windows, and many of the tiny streets dead-end at the sea. Here you can find the Port des Pécheurs (Fishermen’s Port), on whose beach Bardot did a star-turn in And God Created Woman. Twisting, narrow streets, designed to break the impact of the mistral, open to tiny squares with fountains. The main drag here, Rue de la Ponche, leads into Place l’Hôtel de Ville, landmarked by a mairie (town hall) marked out in typical Tropezienne hues of pink and green.

Vieux Port.

Bordered by Quai de l’Épi, Quai Bouchard, Quai Peri, Quai Suffren, and Quai Jean-Jaurès, Vieux Port is a place for strolling and looking over the shoulders of artists painting their versions of the view on easels set up along the water’s edge. Meanwhile, folding director’s chairs at the famous port-side cafés Le Gorille (named for its late, exceptionally hirsute manager), Café de Paris, and Sénéquier are well placed for observing the cast of St-Tropez’s living theater play out its colorful roles.

WHERE TO EAT

Dior des Lices.

FRENCH | What could be more fashionable than tucking into cuisine crafted by three-Michelin-star chef Yannick Alléno in an enchanting sheltered garden designed by Peter Wirtz at the House of Dior? Dior des Lices serves a full breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks, with a range of reasonable prices, including set menus. Look for lobster and crunchy vegetable salad with garlic broth or linguine with cherry tomatoes, olive oil, and parmesan shavings. Terrifically, the dessert selection is as long the rest of the menu; the D’Choux (cute little round pastries), which come in salted caramel, pistachio, lemon zest, and more flavors, get rave reviews. By day the atmosphere is as playful as the outdoor ice-cream carousel and by sunset this magical oasis is perfect for a glass of champagne. | Average main: €24 | 25 rue François Sibilli | 04–98–12–67–65 | www.yannick-alleno.com | Closed Oct.–May.

La Table du Marché.

BISTRO | This charming bistro, tearoom, and boutique from celebrity chef Christophe Leroy offers up a casual atmosphere, warm service, and a mouth-watering spread of regional specialties alongside a play on the classics: mini goat-cheese burgers, scrambled eggs à la sea urchin, and chocolate spring rolls with spicy caramel sauce. Lunchtime visitors can dive into a nicely balanced set menu or choose from a selection of goods seductively on display. | Average main: €29 | 21 bis, rue Allard | 04–94–97–01–25 | www.christophe-leroy.com | Closed Jan.–Mar.

Le Bistrot à la Truffe.

BISTRO | In 2013 “Emperor of the Truffle” Bruno Clément opened this truffle palace over three floors of a typical Provençal house just down the street from the church in St-Tropez. Only Bruno could revolutionize a simple oven-baked dish with cream of Tuber brumale (winter truffle), grated Tuber melanosporum (black truffle), and a dash of olive oil to create a meal of startling decadence. Chef Eric Barbes oversees the kitchen, providing scrumptious truffle feasts on two set menus (€69) and the brumale-melanosporum truffle-combo menu (€115), as well as à la carte options. The wine menu is as fabulous as the truffles; bottles start at €40. | Average main: €32 | 2 rue de l’Église | 04–94–43–95–18 | www.bistrot-la-truffe.com | No dinner Sun.–Tues. No lunch weekdays. Closed Oct.–Jan. (except Christmas).

Le Sporting.

BRASSERIE | Be prepared for lively conversations at nearby tables and children not behaving as French children are reputed to, but it’s all worth it for a lip-smacking plat du jour for €14.60. Pizza, pasta, burgers, and lamb chops are all served in generous portions and at reasonable prices, every day, all year long. The fixtures are nothing fancy—red awning, metal chairs, and typical café tables—but at least there’s a place in St-Tropez that feels a little casual. | Average main: €24 | 42 pl. des Lices | 04–94–97–00–65.

WHERE TO STAY

Hôtel B. Lodge.

HOTEL | All the small, delicately contemporary rooms of this attractively priced, four-story charmer overlook the Citadelle’s green park, some from tiny balconies. If you’re more than two, ask for the pretty loft suite, with its private spiral-stair entrance. Continental breakfast (included) is served on the petite terrasse outside; the cozy Barock bar is open April to October. Pros: good deal for location; rooms without air conditioning are cheaper. Cons: minimum stay of four nights in July and August; with only two available parking spots, street parking is a sticky proposition; small rooms. | Rooms from: €165 | 12 rue de l’Aïoli | 04–94–97–06–57 | www.hotel-b-lodge.com | 15 rooms | Closed 5 wks Nov.–Jan. | Breakfast.

La Belle Isnarde.

HOTEL | The Robert family has been greeting guests at this villa, just minutes from Place des Lices, since 1965, and while rooms are small, have thin walls, and are as basic as can be, they are clean, with hand-held showers, towels, and shampoo. They’re also ideal if you want a place to lay your economical head in St-Tropez and have a car (it’s just outside walking distance to town and there are no buses). The hotel has a loyal international clientele, so you need to book in advance. Wi-Fi is available in the common area. Pros: lots of free parking; cheap rates for St-Tropez; €10 breakfast well priced for St-Trop. Cons: a 3-minute taxi to town costs €20; cash only; beds on the soft side. | Rooms from: €100 | Début Rte. de la Plage Tahiti, B.P. 39 | 04–94–97–13–64 | www.la-belle-isnarde.com | 11 rooms | No credit cards | Closed Oct. 15–Easter | No meals.

Le Byblos.

HOTEL | Forget five stars: this toy Mediterranean village grouped around courtyards landscaped with palms, olive trees, and lavender and guest rooms à la provençale but ultramodern in comfort has obtained “Palace” classification. When you can’t tear yourself away from the piscine, indulge in a goat cheese samosa or Byblos burger at B., the poolside restaurant open all day. Ducasse’s Rivea at Byblos (formerly known as Spoon), open for dinner only, has nailed the exact size of portions necessary to satisfy the senses. As evening falls, all head to the hotel’s Caves du Roy—a kitsch disco extravaganza where squillionaires order €35,000 Methuselahs (6-liter bottles) of champagne, and keep them coming. Paparazzi-free, it’s virtually impossible to get in unless you arrive early or reserve a table in advance. Pros: exquisite service, service, service; the best buffet breakfast you could imagine (but €40). Cons: glitz wears thins; some rooms are small for the price. | Rooms from: €855 | Av. Paul-Signac | 04–94–56–68–00 | www.byblos.com | 41 rooms, 50 suites | Closed late Oct.–Easter | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Lou Cagnard.

HOTEL | Set inside a lovely garden courtyard, this pretty little villa hotel is owned by an enthusiastic young couple, who have fixed it up room by room; recent renovations include satellite TV and Wi-Fi (at no extra charge) in each. Eight ground-floor options open onto the flowered and manicured garden, where breakfast (€11) is served in the shade of a fig tree. Most rooms have regional-tile baths, quarry-tile floors, and Provençal fabrics. If you’re willing to share a toilet down the hall, four of the rooms are real bargains (€77). Pros: fantastic value for your money (try room No. 17); walking distance to everything; free parking. Cons: a few of the older rooms share a bathroom. | Rooms from: €108 | 18 av. Paul-Roussel | 04–94–97–04–24 | www.hotel-lou-cagnard.com | 19 rooms | Closed Nov.–Feb. | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Les Caves du Roy.

Costing the devil and often jammed to the scuppers, this disco in the Byblos Hotel is the place to see and be seen; it’s filled with svelte model types and their wealthy, silver-haired fans. When you hear the theme from Star Wars, take comfort while you sip your €27 glass of tap water that someone other than yourself has just spent €35,000 on a Methuselah of Champagne. There’s a horrific door policy during high season; don’t worry, it’s not you. | Av. Paul-Signac | www.lescavesduroy.com | Closed Nov.–Easter. Closed weekdays Apr.–June.

Les Nuits du Château de la Moutte.

Every mid-July and August, classical music concerts are given in the gardens of the Château de la Moutte. For ticket information, inquire at the tourist office. | Chemin de la Moutte | 04–94–96–96–94 information | www.lesnuitsduchateaudelamoutte.com | €45.

VIP Room.

So notorious is the VIP Room for drawing flashy, gilded youths with deep pockets that it spawned a VIP Room Cannes expressly for those that need a dose of film festival before it opens for the summer. | Residence du Nouveau Port | 06–38–83–83–83 | st-tropez.viproom.fr.

SHOPPING

There is something about St-Tropez that makes shopping simply irresistible—unlike Cannes, you’ll be welcomed into the stores no matter what you look like or what you’re wearing. Rue Sibilli, behind the Quai Suffren, is lined with all kinds of trendy boutiques, many carrying those all-important sunglasses. Tuck in behind here to Place de la Garonne for some extra hip purchases.

La Chemise Tropezienne.

You’ll turn more than a few heads wearing one of La Chemise Tropezienne’s gorgeous beach kaftans or shirts, in all the colors of a Mediterranean rainbow—which for this circa 1960s boutique includes white. | 25 rue Gambetta | 04–94–79–59–75 | lachemisetropezienne.com.

Le Dépot.

If you prefer traditional luxe, Le Dépot stocks castoffs by Chanel, Prada, Gucci et al. | Espace des Lices,7 bd. Louis-Blanc | 04–94–97–47–93 | leboudoirtropezien.com.

Place des Lices.

The aorta of the village, this congregational square overflows with produce and regional foods, as well as clothing and brocantes (secondhand items), every Tuesday and Saturday morning. | Pl. des Lices.

Rondini.

You wear those strappy flip-flops back home but are they the real sandales Tropeziennes? It’s okay, we won’t blow your cover, but here’s your chance to pick up the real (and handmade) deal at Rodini, St-Tropez’s original cobbler, launched in 1927. Did we mention they Fedex to the U.S. (€20)? | 16 rue Clemenceau | 04–94–97–19–55 | www.rondini.fr.

Vilebrequin.

In 1971 Fred Prysquel turned his swim trunk designs, sketched on the tablecloth at his favorite St-Tropez café, into Vilebrequin, a brand that now sells in 54 countries. His Golden Turtle designs, 24-carat-gold-embroidered swim trunks, start at $8,000. Each of the four Vilebrequin boutiques in St-Tropez is dedicated to a certain theme (for example, on rue Gambetta, one shop sells only solid colors while the other stocks only patterns), but it’s at Place de la Garonne where you can truly hunt for gold. | 1 pl. de la Garonne | 04–94–43–33–46 | fr.vilebrequin.com | Closed Nov.–Feb. | 24 rue Gambetta | 04–94–97–62–04 | 9 rue Jean Mermoz | 04–94–97–67–12 | 14 rue Gambetta | 04–94–79–81–30.

FRÉJUS

19 km (12 miles) northeast of Ste-Maxime, 37 km (23 miles) northeast of St-Tropez.

Turn your back on modern times—the gargantuan, pink, holiday high-rises that crowd the Fréjus–St-Raphaël waterfront—and head uphill to Fréjus-Centre with its maze of narrow streets lined with butcher shops, patisseries, and neighborhood stores barely touched by the cult of the lavender sachet.

Fréjus (pronounced fray-zhooss) has the honor of having some of the most important historic monuments on the coast. Founded in 49 BC by Julius Caesar himself and named Forum Julii, this quiet town was once a thriving Roman shipbuilding port of 40,000 citizens. In its heyday, Roman Fréjus had a theater, baths, and an enormous aqueduct that brought water all the way from Mons in the mountains, 45 km (28 miles) north of town. Today you can see the remains: a series of detached arches that follow the main Avenue du Quinzième Corps (leading up to the Old Town).

Getting Here and Around

The direct bus from the Nice–Côte d’Azur airport (both Terminal 1 and 2) to Fréjus takes just more than an hour and costs €20. Arriving by train, you’ll have to stop at St-Raphaël and take one of the several daily buses (€3; 15 minutes) that heads to Fréjus. A taxi for the same distance runs around €30. Fréjus’s bus station is on Place Paul-Vernet and Estérel buses have routes to St-Tropez. By car, you are only 35 minutes from the airport on the A8 highway (take the No. 38 exit Fréjus/St-Raphaël). You can take the N7 or N38 for a more scenic drive but it takes a lot more time, particularly with summer traffic.

Visitor Information

Fréjus Tourist Office. | Le Florus II,249 rue Jean-Jaurès | 04–94–51–83–83 | www.frejus.fr.

EXPLORING

Arènes.

The Arènes (often called the Amphithéâtre) is still used for concerts and bullfights, and can still seat up to 5,000. Back down on the coast, a big French naval base occupies the spot where ancient Roman galleys once set out to defeat Cleopatra and Mark Antony at the Battle of Actium. | Rue Henri Vadon | 04–94–51–34–31 | €2 | Oct.–Mar., Tues. and Thurs.–Sat. 9:30–noon and 2–4:30; Apr.–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–noon and 2–6.

Groupe Épiscopal.

Fréjus is graced with one of the most impressive religious monuments in Provence: The Groupe Épiscopal is made up of an early Gothic cathedral, a 5th-century Roman-style baptistery, and an early Gothic cloister, its gallery painted in sepia and earth tones with a phantasmagoric assortment of animals and biblical characters. Off the entrance and gift shop is a small museum of finds from Roman Fréjus, including a complete mosaic and a sculpture of a two-headed Hermès. | 58 rue de Fleury | 04–94–51–26–30 | Cathedral free; cloister, museum, and baptistery €5.50 | Cathedral daily 8:30–6:30. Cloister, museum, and baptistery June–Sept., daily 10–12:30 and 1:45–6:30; Oct.–May, Tues.–Sun. 10–1 and 2–5.

La Chapelle Notre Dame de Jérusalem.

The eccentric La Chapelle Notre Dame de Jérusalem was designed by Jean Cocteau as part of an artists’ colony that never happened. It’s an octagon built around a glass atrium and is embellished with stained glass, frescoes depicting the mythology of the first Crusades, and a tongue-in-cheek painting of the apostles above the front door that boasts the famous faces of Coco Chanel, Jean Marais, and poet Max Jacob. | Av. Nicolaï, La Tour de la Mare, 5 km (2½ miles) north of Fréjus on the RN7 | 04–94–53–27–06 | €2 | Apr.–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–12:30 and 2–6; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–noon and 2–4:30.

Théâtre Romain.

Northeast of Old Town and near the Porte de Rome is the Roman theater (circa 1st century); its remaining rows of arches are mostly intact and much of its stage, including the orchestra and substructures, are still visible at its center. Today the site is known as the Philippe Léotard Theatre and hosts Les Nuits Auréliennes every July. | Rue du Théâtre Romain | €2 | Oct.–Mar., Tues. and Thurs.–Sat. 9:30–noon and 2–4:30; Apr.–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–noon and 2–6.

BEACHES

Plage de Fréjus.

This large public sand beach, just east of the port is close to a restaurant where you can rent a lounger. Get here early in the morning to claim your towel space close to the sea; you’ll be able to spot the tourists from the locals by the bottoms-only beach wear. Amenities: lifeguards; parking (paid); showers; toilets. Best for: sunrise; swimming. | Bd. Alger.

ST-RAPHAËL

38 km (24 miles) northeast of St-Tropez, 41 km (25½ miles) southwest of Cannes.

Once party central for F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, who had a hideaway here, St-Raphaël is a now a sprawling resort town that essentially abuts neighboring Fréjus. Gamblers come for the downtown casino; golfers come to play a trio of nearby courses; and the weary (or just indulgent) come to revive in the seawater-based thalassotherapy spas. St-Raphaël is also a major sailing center, which is fitting because the port has a rich history: Napoléon landed here on his triumphant return from Egypt in 1799—it was also from here in 1814 that he cast off for Elba in disgrace. If you’re more interested in trains than boats, note that St-Raphaël is a rail crossroads and the closest stop to St-Tropez.

Getting Here

St-Raphaël, the western terminus of the SNCF’s regional Riviera line, is easily reached by train. The gare routière (just behind the train station, on rue Waldeck-Rousseau) offers bus links to destinations including Cannes and St-Tropez. Popular ferries to the latter depart from St-Raphaël’s Vieux Port. If you’re coming straight from Nice’s airport, a shuttle bus is available (75 mins, €20).

Visitor Information

St-Raphaël Tourist Office. | 99 Quai Albert 1er | 04–94–19–52–52 | www.saint-raphael.com.

EXPLORING

Vieille Ville (Old Town).

St-Raphaël’s Vieille Ville is a tiny enclave of charm crowned by the 12th-centuryÉglise St-Pierre-des-Templiers, a miniature-scale Romanesque church, and the intimate little Musée Archéologique Marin (Marine Archaeology Museum), both located on Rue des Templiers.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Bouchon Provençal.

FRENCH | Trés sympa in decor and ambience, this well-respected local restaurant is a three-minute walk from the main strip to St-Raphaël’s Old Town. A few years ago, it was profiled on “Les escapades gourmandes” on French TV, selected for its traditional terroir cuisine, as accentuated by the menu: cod crumble in a creamy chorizo sauce, lobster tail stew, and (on Friday) the aioli façon Pastorel (€28), a famous mayonnaise dip. Lunch (€22) and dinner (€30–€38) menus change often and the wine list is heavy on the—you guessed it—Provençal side. | Average main: €30 | 45 rue de la République | 04–94–53–89–18 | www.bouchon-provencal-st-raphael.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Hôtel Thimothée.

B&B/INN | This attractive 19th-century villa offers comfortable, well-priced rooms (the two on the top floor have poster-perfect sea views, worth the extra €29) as well as a lovely garden, where grand palms and pines shade the walk leading to a pretty little swimming pool. Five renovated studios, equipped with kitchens and sleeping two to four guests, are located behind the hotel and available for weekly rentals. Pros: familial atmosphere and gentle hospitality; clean rooms and modern bathrooms. Cons: beach and waterfront cafés are a 20-minute walk away; really just an affordable place to lay your beach hat. | Rooms from: €70 | 375 bd. Christian-Lafon | 04–94–40–49–49 | www.thimothee.com | 12 rooms | Closed mid.-Dec.–1st wk Feb. | No meals.

MANDELIEU–LA NAPOULE

32 km (20 miles) northeast of St-Raphaël, 8 km (5 miles) west of Cannes.

La Napoule is the small, old-fashioned port village, Mandelieu the big-fish resort town that devoured it. You can visit Mandelieu for a golf-and-sailing retreat—the town is replete with many sporting facilities and hosts a bevy of sporting events, including sailing regattas, windsurfing contests, and golf championships (there are two major golf courses in Mandelieu right in the center of town overlooking the water). By the sea, a yacht-crammed harbor sits under the shadow of some high-rise resort hotels. La Napoule, on the other hand, offers the requisite quaintness, ideal for a port-side stroll, casual meal, beach siesta, or visit to its peculiar castle.

Getting Here

From the Aéroport Nice-Côte d’Azur, you can get here in 30 minutes by car (take the A8 to exit No. 40) or in 35 by airport shuttle (direction St-Raphaël, €20). The closest train stop in Cannes; from there you can catch the No. 20 bus (€1.50) or a take a taxi (about €30).

EXPLORING

Château de la Napoule.

Set on Pointe des Pendus (Hanged Man’s Point), the Château de la Napoule looms over the sea and the port and is a spectacularly bizarre hybrid of Romanesque, Gothic, Moroccan, and Hollywood cooked up by the eccentric American sculptor Henry Clews (1876–1937). Working with his architect-wife, Clews transformed the 14th-century bastion into something that suited his personal expectations and then filled the place with his own fantastical sculptures. The couple reside in their tombs in the tower crypt, its windows left slightly ajar to permit their souls to escape and allow them to “return at eventide as sprites and dance upon the windowsill.” Today the château’s foundation hosts visiting writers and artists, who set to work surrounded by Clews’s gargoyle-ish sculptures. | Av. Henry Clews | 04–93–49–95–05 | www.chateau-lanapoule.com | €6, gardens only €3.50 | Feb. 7–Nov. 7, daily 10–6, guided visits at 11:30, 2:30, 3:30, and 4:30; Nov. 8–Feb. 6, weekdays 2–5, guided visits at 2:30 and 3:30; weekends 10–5, guided visits at 11:30, 2:30, and 3:30.

WHERE TO EAT

Le Boucanier.

SEAFOOD | Wraparound plate-glass views of the marina and château make this low-ceilinged room a waterfront favorite. For 30-plus years locals have gathered here for mountains of oysters and whole fish, grilled simply and served with a drizzle of fruity olive oil, a pinch of rock salt, or a brief flambé in pastis. If you’re not a fish fan but want to experience the scenery, you’ll also find pasta, pizzas, and steak on the menu. | Average main: €26 | 273 av. Henry Clews, Port de La Napoule | 04–93–49–80–51 | www.boucanier.fr | Closed Dec. Closed Thurs. Oct.–Mar.

L’Oasis.

MODERN FRENCH | A culinary landmark with two Michelin stars, this Gothic villa by the sea is home to Stéphane Raimbault—a master of Provençal cuisine who creates unexpected flavor collisions (think medallions of roasted blue lobster in a risotto of spaghetti à la Puttanesca or hazelnut venison with a pepper sauce and blueberries). A meal is accented with attentive service plus lots of extras in between courses; and few can quibble with the beauty of the famous garden terrace shadowed by gorgeous palm trees. The €98 menu shouldn’t be dismissed. Le Bistro, upstairs, has earned a Michelin BIB designation for “good food at moderate prices” and offers excellent set menus Tuesday to Saturday for both lunch and dinner. Did we mention the cigar collection? | Average main: €80 | 6 rue Jean Honoré Carle | 04–93–49–95–52 | www.oasis-raimbault.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Jan.

SPORTS

Golf Club de Cannes-Mandelieu.

The Grand Duke Michael of Russia founded the Riviera’s first golf course in 1891, known familiarly as The Old Course. Officially it’s the International Golf Club Cannes-Mandelieu and has two courses—one with 18 holes (par 71) and one with 9 (par 33), which are the most visually stunning courses in the south of France. The €90 green fee for 18 holes drops nearly 40% if you tee off after 5 pm. | Rte. du Golf | 04–92–97–32–00 | www.golfoldcourse.com | 18-hole course: 5749 meters. Par 71. Green fee: €90. Grand Duke: 9 holes. 2118 meters. Par 33. Green fee: €55 | Facilities: Driving range, golf carts, rental clubs, pro-shop, golf academy/lessons, restaurant.

CANNES

8 km (5 miles) east of Mandelieu-La Napoule; 73 km (45 miles) northeast of St-Tropez; 33 km (20 miles) southwest of Nice.

Cannes is a sybaritic heaven for those who believe that life is short and sin has something to do with the absence of a tan. Backed by gentle hills and flanked to the southwest by the Estérel, warmed by dependable sun but kept bearable in summer by the cool Mediterranean breeze, Cannes is blessed with an ideal climate that has made it one of the most beloved (and bedazzled) resorts in Europe. The cynosure of sun worshippers, Cannes’s reputation as a tourist town been further enhanced by the success of its glitzy international film festival.

It wasn’t always this way—in fact, the bay only attracted fishermen until 1834. That was the year Lord Brougham, an English aristocrat, fell in love with the site during an emergency stopover with a sick daughter; he promptly had a home built and began returning every winter for a sun cure. The ritual was picked up by his peers. Today, glamour—and the perception of glamour—is self-perpetuating, and as long as Cannes enjoys its ravishing climate and setting, it will maintain its incomparable panache. If you love culture of the noncelluloid type, however, you should look elsewhere—there is only one museum here, devoted to history. Still, as his lordship instantly understood, this is a great place to pass the winter.

Getting Here

Cannes has one central train station, the Gare SNCF on Rue Jean Jaurès. All major trains pass through here—including TGVs that come direct from Paris (5 hrs)—but many of the trains run the St-Raphaël–Ventimiglia route. A network of buses connects Cannes with various locales, including Nice (90 mins) and Grasse (45 mins); the €1.50 fare to all destinations along the coast make these buses a bargain—be patient, though, as you may not get a seat. If you’re flying into Nice, note that an airport shuttle to Cannes is available (50 mins, €20).

Visitor Information

Cannes Tourist Office. | 1 bd. de la Croisette | 04–92–99–84–22 | www.cannes-destination.fr.

EXPLORING

La Croisette.

This is precisely the sort of place for which the verb flâner (to dawdle, saunter) was invented. Head to this famous waterfront promenade—which runs for 1.6 kilometers (1 mile) from its western terminus by the Palais des Festivals—and allow the esprit de Cannes to take over. Stroll among the palm trees and flowers and crowds of poseurs (fur coats in tropical weather, cell phones on rollerblades, and sunglasses at night). Continue east past the broad expanse of private beaches, glamorous shops, and luxurious hotels (among them the wedding-cake Carlton, famed for its see-and-be-seen terrace-level brasserie). The beaches along here are almost all private, but it’s worth forking out the money to get the total Cannes experience. | From Palais des Festivals, Bd. de Croisette.

Le Suquet.

Climb up Rue St-Antoine into the picturesque vieille ville neighborhood known as Le Suquet, on the site of the original Roman castrum. Shops proffer Provençal goods, and the atmospheric cafés provide a place to catch your breath; the pretty pastel shutters, Gothic stonework, and narrow passageways are lovely distractions. | Rue St-Antoine.

Malmaison.

If you need a culture fix, check out the modern art and photography exhibitions (admission prices vary) held at the Malmaison, a 19th-century mansion that was once part of the Grand Hotel. | 47 bd. La Croisette, La Croisette | 04–97–06–44–90 | €7 | Oct.–Apr., Tues.–Sun. 10–1 and 2–6; July and Aug., daily 11–8 (and Fri. to 9); Sept. daily 11–7.

Musée de la Castre.

The hill is topped by an 11th-century château, housing the Musée de la Castre, with its mismatched collection of weaponry, ethnic artifacts, and ceramics amassed by a 19th century aristocrat. The imposing four-sided Tour du Suquet (Suquet Tower) was built in 1385 as a lookout against Saracen-led invasions. | Pl. de la Castre, Le Suquet | 04–93–38–55–26 | €6 | Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10–1 and 2–5; Apr.–June and Sept., Tues.–Sun. 10–1 and 2–6; July and Aug., daily 10–7 (June–Sept. Wed. to 9).

Palais des Festivals.

Pick up a map at the tourist office in the Palais des Festivals, the scene of the famous Festival International du Film, otherwise known as the Cannes Film Festival. As you leave the information center, follow the Palais to your right to see the red-carpeted stairs that movie A-listers ascend every year. Set into the surrounding pavement, the Allée des Étoiles (Stars’ Walk) enshrines some 300 autographed hand imprints—including those of Dépardieu, Streep, and Stallone. | Bd. de la Croisette | www.palaisdesfestivals.com.

QUICK BITES: Le 72 Croisette.

Head down the Croisette and fight for a spot at Le 72 Croisette, the most feistily French of all the Croisette bars. It offers great ringside seats for watching the rich and famous enter the Martinez hotel next door, and it’s open nearly 24 hours a day from May to September (7 am to 4 am) with long hours during the rest of the year as well. | 71 La Croisette | 04–93–94–18–30.

Rue d’Antibes.

Two blocks behind La Croisette lies Rue d’Antibes, Cannes’s high-end shopping street. At its western end is Rue Meynadier, packed tight with trendy clothing boutiques and fine food shops. Not far away is the covered Marché Forville, the scene of the animated morning food market. Rue Houche, behind Rue d’Antibes and down from Galleries Lafayette, has lots of boutiques and cafés; Volupté makes a fabulously creamy cappuccino and Chez Bruno is the stop for chocolate.

WHERE TO EAT

Astoux et Cie Brun.

SEAFOOD | This beacon to all fish lovers since 1953 is deserving of its reputation for impeccably fresh fruits de mer. Well-trained staff negotiate cramped quarters to lay down heaping seafood platters, shrimp casseroles, and piles of oysters shucked to order. Open 365 days a year, Astoux is noisy, cheerful, and always busy, so arrive early (noon for lunch, 6 pm for dinner) to get a table and avoid the line—they do not accept reservations. | Average main: €35 | 27 rue Felix Faure, La Croisette | 04–93–39–21–87 | www.astouxbrun.com | Reservations not accepted.

L’Affable.

FRENCH | When Chef Battaglia decided to set up shop in Cannes, gastronomes were delighted—and the chef does not disappoint. The curried lobster is fantastic, the lamb rack succulent, and the risotto impossibly creamy. Jammed daily since its opening, reservations are essential. Note that dinner service is a fixed price with lots of tempting choices. | Average main: €42 | 5 rue Lafontaine, La Croisette | 04–93–68–02–09 | www.restaurant-laffable.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Sat. lunch, Sun., and Aug.

La Villa Archange.

FRENCH | You wouldn’t expect to find a restaurant with two Michelin stars set in such a residential background, 10 minutes by car from La Croisette. But Bruno Oger, ex-chef at the Villa des Lys, promises you a rather unforgettable evening in this très cozy spot surrounded by centennial trees and gardens. Yes, it’s pricey. Now that’s out of the way, concentrate on the menus—which features dishes like veal shank cooked for 24 hours and served with truffle mashed potatoes, or Breton lobster and roasted squid served with chard ravioli. His creations have dazzled Tilda Swinton and Diane Kruger; and, frankly, a restaurant with its own app for the plat du jour in real time is surely in a league of its own. | Average main: €95 | 15 bis, rue Notre Dame des Anges | Le Cannet | 04–92–18–18–28 | bruno-oger.com | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Tues.–Thurs.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Park 45.

FRENCH | Set in the chic, retro-’60s Grand Hotel Cannes, this modern spot with sleek plate-glass windows to take in the views is the showcase for chef Sébastien Broda’s cooking. The 33-year-old chef of growing fame puts on a real show with some of the most Barnumesque dishes around: the pea soup with M&M–like balls of foie gras or the blue lobster with ham shoulder get loud bravos. This local-boy-made-good (he trained at La Palme d’Or and at Roger Vergé’s Mougins landmark) has piqued the curiosity of both far-flung foodies and plenty of trendy Cannoises. | Average main: €34 | 45 bd. de la Croisette | 04–93–38–15–45 | www.grand-hotel-cannes.com | Closed Dec. and Jan.

Mantel.

FRENCH | In a city where style often wins out over substance, food lovers treasure this Suquet address, run by former chef and maître d’ Noël Mantel, who started out at the Negresco before working with Ducasse at Louis XV in Monaco and then managing Les Muscadins in Mougins. In 2002 he opened this self-named eatery, now part of the Relais & Château family, and recently modernized the interior, opting for a more contemporary setting as appetizing as his cuisine. Find out for yourself with dishes à la carte or one of the seasonal prix-fixe menus (€30, €40, €57) drawing on the finest Mediterranean produce to deliver such simple yet eloquent dishes as sea bream served with artichokes, zucchini, and bouillabaisse sauce. | Average main: €40 | 22 rue St-Antoine | 04–93–39–13–10 | www.restaurantmantel.com | No lunch Tues. or Thurs. Closed Wed.

Sea Sens.

FRENCH | This trendy restaurant on the fifth floor of the Five Hotel (long ago it was the town’s post office) has a fabulous view over le Suquet. Chef Arnaud Tabarec and world Pastry Champion Jérôme De Oliveira attempt to awaken all your senses through any of the three menus you chose—L’Intemporel (€55), the meat-and-fish Le Terre et Mer (€80), or Le Sensation (€120), a surprise menu for those who live on the gastronomic edge. The selection of very tasty wines can make even a novice appreciate bouquet, taste, and texture. | Average main: €55 | 1 rue Notre-Dame | 04–63–36–05–05 | www.five-seas-hotel-cannes.com | No dinner Mon. Closed most of Feb.

WHERE TO STAY

Carlton InterContinental.

HOTEL | This deliciously pompous Neoclassical option enjoys a prime beachfront position—La Croisette seems to radiate symmetrically from its figurehead waterfront site—and ten deluxe suites on the top floor, each with unsurpassed sea views, as well as snazzy seafront rooms add to the cachet. It is no wonder Grace Kelly and Gary Grant shared star billing with the hotel in Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief. In fact, the Carlton still hosts many film-festival banquets in its gilt-and-marble Grand Salon (along with, alas, business conferences year-round). The health and fitness center, although small, are well equipped. The restaurant is good, the brasserie swank, and the Bar des Célébrités lives up to its name during the film festival. Price includes breakfast. Pros: with the best location in Cannes, this iconic hotel has all the cliché and style that the rich and famous look for; service is remarkably unpretentious; Cons: Wi-Fi is free in public spaces but costly for in-room use; some bathrooms are tiny; rooms at the back compensate for the lack of a sea view with cheery Provençal prints but avoid those looking out over the back parking/delivery area (very noisy early in the morning). | Rooms from: €670 | 58 bd. de la Croisette, La Croisette | 04–93–06–40–06 | www.intercontinental.com | 304 rooms, 39 suites | Breakfast.

Five Hotel.

HOTEL | Housed in the town’s old post office, steps from the Palais de Festival, Five has a stylish decor reminiscent of voyages to the Far East: red fabrics blend with exquisite dark wood furniture against all white linens and bathroom fixtures. Space is maximized by the use of metallic vertical-blind-esque sliding doors, and no detail is overlooked (note the leather handles on the closet doors); amenities are plentiful too—a rooftop pool, personal shoppers, jogging routes, yacht charters, and dog sitters are at your fingertips. The view of Le Suquet from the Sea Sens restaurant may be dazzling, but it’s nothing compared to dishes like the grilled scallops or the caramelized pork and bean fricassee with gingerbread. Save room for the buffet breakfast (included with price except during conventions); and don’t forget to sample sweet treats from Jérôme De Oliveira (the World Pastry Champion) at Intuitions by J., located in the hotel. Pros: excellent service, food, and location; iPad rentals available. Cons: minibar very expensive; who needs a scale in the bathroom when on holiday in France? | Rooms from: €450 | 1 rue Notre Dame | 04–63–36–05–05 | www.five-hotel-cannes.com | 30 rooms, 15 suites | Closed 3 wks in Feb. | Some meals.

Hotel Colette.

HOTEL | Facing the train station, this four-star boutique hotel is incredibly affordable—not just for Cannes, but for any luxurious lodging near the beach. Crisp white linens, friendly service, and complimentary afternoon tea (or coffee) on the veranda more than compensate for the smallish room sizes; besides, this is the South of France and you didn’t come here to spend the day inside. Book online for low early-bird rates and packages that include breakfast. Pros: close to the Palais de Festival; interior courtyard; L’Occitane toiletries provided. Cons: walls may be a little thin but no street noise; local parking could be expensive. | Rooms from: €67 | 5 pl. de la Gare | 04–93–39–01–17 | www.hotelcolette.com | 45 rooms.

Hôtel de Provence.

HOTEL | This hotel has a fabulous location and is affordable, yet the very gracious owners, Julie and Jerry Duburcq, go the extra distance to ensure guests have the service and experience of a much-higher caliber hotel. The rooms—clean and renovated—are small and there is no pool or spa, but sipping wine out on the patio will remind you of all that you don’t have to do. Pros: breakfast from 6 am until noon; five-minute walk from Cannes center; cheaper rates if booking prepaid. Cons: only two parking places, so organize ahead of time with owners (street or paid garage otherwise). | Rooms from: €169 | 9 rue Molière | 04–93–38–44–35 | www.hotel-de-provence.com | 30 rooms | Closed Feb. | No meals.

Le Cavendish Boutique Hotel.

HOTEL | Lovingly restored by friendly owners Christine and Guy Welter, the giddily opulent former residence of Lord Cavendish is a true delight, playing up both contemporary décor and 19th-century elegance. Guest rooms are done in bright swaths of color (“wintergarden” greens, “incensed” reds). Beauty, conviviality, even smells—sheets are scented with lavender water, and fresh flowers line the entryway—all work together in harmony. The downstairs bar is cozy for a nightcap, and the copious buffet breakfast (included in the rate), is excellent. Pros: genuine welcome is a refreshing change from the notoriously frosty reception at other Cannes palace hotels; bar has complimentary drinks and snacks for guests each evening from 6–9. Cons: even though rooms all have double-pane windows, the hotel is on the busiest street in Cannes, which means an inevitable amount of noise. | Rooms from: €195 | 11 bd. Carnot | 04–97–06–26–00 | www.cavendish-cannes.com | 34 rooms | Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Mar. | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Cannes International Film Festival.

The Riviera’s cultural calendar is splashy and star-studded, and never more so than during the International Film Festival in May. The film screenings are not open to the public, so unless you have a pass, your stargazing will be on the streets or in restaurants (though if you hang around the back exits of the big hotels around 7 pm, you may bump into a few celebs on their way to the red carpet). Cinéma de la Plage shows Cannes Classics and Out of Competition films free at Macé beach at 8:30 pm. In addition, the Cannes Cinéphiles (www.cannes-cinema.com) is a group of public screenings of competition films. You can apply online in February. | www.festival-cannes.com.

Le Bâoli.

The biggest player to date in the Cannes nightlife scene is Le Bâoli, where the likes of Leonardo DiCaprio and Lindsay Lohan have been known to stop by. It’s usually packed until dawn even outside of festival time. | Port Canto, Bd. de la Croisette, La Croisette | 04–93–43–03–43 | www.lebaoli.com | Closed Sun.–Thurs. Nov.–mid-Apr.

Palais de Festival Performing Arts.

The Palais de Festival offers a varied menu of performing arts and events, with contemporary, classical, and world music concerts alongside operas, ballets and dance troupes, providing a little dose of culture to the glam that is Cannes. The ticket office is located inside the Visitor’s Bureau, to the right of the Palais’s stairs. | La Croisette | 04–92–98–62–77 tickets | www.palaisdesfestivals.com.

As befits a glamorous seaside resort, Cannes has two casinos.

Casino Barrière.

The famous Casino Barrière on La Croisette—open 10 am to 3 am—is said to draw more crowds to its slot machines than any other casino in France. | In Palais des Festivals,1 La Croisette | 04–92–98–78–00 | www.lucienbarriere.com.

Palm Beach Casino Club.

The Palm Beach Casino Club, with slot machines and (during the festival season) a disco, manages to retain an exclusive atmosphere even though you can show up in jeans. | Pl. Franklin-Roosevelt, Point de la Croisette, La Croisette | 04–97–06–36–90 | www.casinolepalmbeach.com.

THE OUTDOORS

Most of the beaches along La Croisette are owned by hotels and restaurants, and they rent out chaise loungers, mats, and umbrellas to the public and to hotel guests (who also have to pay). Public beaches are between the color-coordinated private beach umbrellas and offer simple open showers and basic toilets. TIP Plage Macé, near the Palais, sets up a beach library from mid-June to August, 10 am to 6 pm. For a €10 deposit readers can sign out books for up to two days; English publications are available.

JUAN-LES-PINS

5 km (3 miles) southwest of Antibes, 10 km (6 miles) southwest of Cannes.

If Antibes is the elderly, historic parent, then Juan-les-Pins is the jazzy, younger-sister resort town. The scene along Juan’s waterfront is something to behold, with thousands of international sun seekers flowing up and down the promenade or lying flank to flank on its endless stretch of sand. Yes, the plage de Juan-les-Pins is made up of sand, not pebbles, and ranks among the Riviera’s best (rent a beach chair from the nearby hotel concessions, the best of which is Les Belles Rives). Along with these white-powder wonders, Juan is famous for the quality—some pundits say quantity—of its nightlife. There are numerous nightclubs where you can do everything but sleep, ranging from casinos to discos to strip clubs. If all this sounds like too much hard work, wait for July’s jazz festival—one of Europe’s most prestigious—or simply repair to Les Belles Rives; if you’re lucky enough to be a guest, you’ll understand why F. Scott Fitzgerald set his Tender Is the Night in “Juantibes,” as the place retains the golden glamour of the Riviera of yore and is surrounded by the last remnants of the pine forests that gave Juan its name. Elsewhere, Juan-les-Pins suffers from a plastic feel and you might get more out of Antibes.

Getting Here

Regional rail service connects Juan-les-Pins to Nice (€4.80), Cannes (€2.50), and other coastal towns; from the train station, Envibus No. 15 (€1.50) loops through town, stopping at the public beach. Juan-les-Pins can also be reached from either Nice or Cannes via the No. 200 Lignes d’Azur bus (1 hr, €1.50).

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel des Mimosas.

HOTEL | Situated in an enclosed hilltop garden studded with tall palms, mimosas, and tropical greenery, this is the sort of place where only the quiet buzzing of cicadas interrupts silent nights. Many of the guest rooms—modestly decorated in Victorian florals and all redone, right down to the floors, in 2013—overlook the sizable pool; its presence helps make up for quarter-mile hike down to the beach, but at a base rate of €99, can you really complain? Pros: nice garden and grounds (worth the extra money for room with terrace); easy 10 minute walk to train station. Cons: some rooms are small and dated; breakfast extra (€10); weak Wi-Fi in areas. | Rooms from: €99 | Rue Pauline | 04–93–61–04–16 | www.hotelmimosas.com | 34 rooms | Closed Oct.–Apr. | No meals.

Les Belles Rives.

HOTEL | Not far from the onetime villa of Gerald and Sara Murphy—those Roaring ’20s millionaires who devoted their lives to proving the maxim “living well is the best revenge”—the Belles Rives became the home-away-from-home for literary giant F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife Zelda (chums of the Murphys). Lovingly restored to 1930s glamour, this fabled landmark proves that what’s old is new again, as France’s stylish young set make this endearingly neoclassique place with lovely Art Deco accommodations one of their latest favorites, dining on the terrace of the on-site restaurant on a fine summer night, with the sea lapping below and stars twinkling in the velvety Mediterranean sky. There’s no pool, but the private beach (très cher) is just steps away, and you can order lunch on the spot. Pros: views are quite spectacular, but ask for a room with a frontal (not lateral) sea view; lots of water sports. Cons: restaurant is pricey; some rooms are on the small side. | Rooms from: €450 | 33 bd. Édouard Baudoin | 04–93–61–02–79 | www.bellesrives.com | 43 rooms | Closed Jan. and Feb. | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Eden Casino.

The glassed-in complex of the Eden Casino houses slot machines, Roulette and Black Jack tables, and a panoramic beach restaurant. Texas Hold’Em Poker is played every night. Players park for free. | 17 bd. Baudoin | 04–92–93–71–71 | www.casinojuanlespins.com | Daily until 4 am (5 am in summer).

Festival International Jazz à Juan.

Every July the world-renowned Jazz à Juan festival stages a stellar lineup in a romantic venue under ancient pines. This 50-plus-year-old festival hosted the European debut performances of such stars as Miles Davis and Ray Charles. More recently, it spawned the fringier Jazz Off, with 200 musicians and free street concerts, and the Jazz Club at Les Ambassadeurs beach, where you can enjoy a drink with live music (headliners have been known to pop in for impromptu concerts here). | 04–22–10–60–06 ticket information | www.jazzajuan.com.

Le Village.

By far the most popular club in the town—and rumored to be the favorite haunt of Noel Gallagher—is Le Village. | Pl. de la Nouvelle Orléans,1 bd. de la Pinède | 04–92–93–90–00 | Oct.–June closed Sun.–Thurs.

CAP D’ANTIBES

2 km (1 mile) south of Antibes.

This extravagantly beautiful peninsula, protected from the concrete plague infecting the mainland coast, has been carved up into luxurious estates shaded by thick, tall pines. Since the 19th century the wild greenery and isolation have drawn a glittering guest list of aristocrats, artists, literati, and the fabulously wealthy: Guy de Maupassant, Anatole France, Claude Monet, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, the Greek shipping tycoon Stavros Niarchos, and the cream of the Lost Generation, including Ernest Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, and Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald. Now the most publicized focal point is the Hôtel du Cap–Eden Roc, the preferred address of visiting film stars.

Getting Here

Envibus’s No. 2 line (€1.50) connects Cap d’Antibes to downtown Antibes.

EXPLORING

Jardin Thuret (Thuret Garden).

To fully experience the Riviera’s heady hothouse exoticism, visit the glorious Jardin Thuret, established by botanist Gustave Thuret in 1856 as a testing ground for subtropical plants and trees. Thuret was responsible for the introduction of the palm tree, forever changing the profile of the French Riviera. On his death the property was left to the Ministry of Agriculture, which continues to dabble in the introduction of exotic species. The garden is in the middle of the Cap; from the Port Gallice, head up Chemin du Croûton, turn right on the Boulevard du Cap, then right again on Chemin Raymond. | 90 chemin Raymond | 04–97–21–25–00 | www7.sophia.inra.fr/jardin_thuret | Free | Winter, weekdays 8:30–5:30; summer, weekdays 8–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Sentier du Littoral (Sentier Tire-poil).

Bordering the Cap’s zillion-dollar hotels and over-the-top estates runs one of the most spectacular footpaths in the world: the Sentier du Littoral (aka Sentier Tire-poil, which mean the wind is so strong it “ruffles the hair”), which was recently extended, bringing the circuit “full circle” around the gardens at Eilenroc over to l’Anse de l’Argent Faux. It now stretches about 5 km (3 miles) along the outermost tip of the peninsula. It begins gently enough at the pretty Plage de la Garoupe (where Cole Porter and Gerald Murphy used to hang out), with a paved walkway and dazzling views over the Baie de la Garoupe and the faraway Alps. Round the far end of the cap, however, and the paved promenade soon gives way to a boulder-studded pathway that picks its way along 50-foot cliffs, dizzying switchbacks, and thundering breakers (Attention Mort—”Beware: Death”—read the signs, reminding you this path can be very dangerous in stormy weather). Continue along the new portion of the path to the cove l’Anse de l’Argent Faux, where you can stop and catch your breath before heading up to entrance of Eilen Roc. Then follow Avenue Beaumont impasse tangent until it touches the Cap’s main road RD 2559. On sunny days, with exhilarating winds and spectacular breakers, you’ll have company, although for most stretches all signs of civilization completely disappear—except for a yacht or two. The walk is long and takes about two hours to complete, but it may prove to be two of the more unforgettable hours of your trip (especially if you tackle it at sunset). By the way, if you come across locked gates blocking your route it’s because storm warnings have been issued and you are not allowed to enter. TIP From the bus station in town take the No. 2 bus to the “Fontaine” stop. To return, follow the Plage de la Garoupe until Boulevard de la Garoupe, where you’ll make a left to reconnect with the bus.

Phare de la Garoupe (Garoupe Lighthouse).

You can sample a little of what draws famous people to this part of the world by walking up the Chemin de Calvaire from the Plage de la Salis in Antibes—about 1 kilometer (½ mile)—and taking in the extraordinary views from the hill surmounted by the old lighthouse, the Phare de la Garoupe. Next to the lighthouse, the 16th-century double chapel of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garoupe contains ex-votos and statues of the Virgin, all in memory and for the protection of sailors. Please note that should renovations begin in January 2014 as planned, the chapel will be closed until mid-2015. | Chemin de Calvaire | 04–22–10–60–10 | Chapel, Mon. and Fri. 2:30–5:30; mass at 11:30.

Fodor’s Choice | Villa Eilenroc.

The Sentier du Litterol passes along the beach at the Villa Eilenroc, designed by Charles Garnier, who created the Paris Opéra—which should give you some idea of its style. It commands the tip of the peninsula from a grand and glamorous garden. Over the last decade an eco-museum was completed and a scented garden created at the entrance to the rose garden. On Wednesdays from September to June, visitors are allowed to wander through the reception salons, which retain the Louis Seize-Trianon feel of the noble facade. The Winter Salon still has its 1,001 Nights ceiling mural painted by Jean Dunand, the famed Art Deco designer; display cases are filled with memorabilia donated by Caroline Groult-Flaubert (Antibes resident and goddaughter of the great author); and the boudoir has boiseries from the Marquis de Sévigné’s Paris mansion. As you leave, be sure to detour to La Rosaerie, the rose garden of the estate—in the distance you can spot the white portico of the Château de la Cröe, another legendary villa (now reputedly owned by a syndicate of Russian billionaires). It has a host of big names attached to it—singer Helene Beaumont built it; and King Leopold II of Belgium, King Farouk of Egypt, Aristotle Onassis, and Greta Garbo all rented here. | At peninsula’s tip,460 av. L.D. Beaumont | 04–93–67–74–33 | www.antibesjuanlespins.com | Free Oct–Mar.; €2 Apr.–Sept. | Oct.–Mar., Wed. and Sat. 1–4; Apr.–June, Wed. and Sat. 10–5; July–Sept., Wed., Sat., and Sun. 3–7.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Restaurant de Bacon.

SEAFOOD | Since 1948, under the careful watch of the Sordello brothers, this has been the spot for seafood on the French Riviera. The catch of the day may be minced in lemon ceviche (€38), floating in a top-of-the-line bouillabaisse (€125), or simply grilled with fennel and crisped with hillside herbs (€80). The dreamy terrace over the Baie des Anges, with views of the Antibes ramparts, justify extravagance, even if the service sometimes falls short of pricey expectations. Many of the à la carte fish dishes are expensive, but there’s a €55 lunch menu. (Note that there are very few nonfish alternatives.) | Average main: €80 | 664 bd. de Bacon | 04–93–61–50–02 | www.restaurantdebacon.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Nov.–Feb. No lunch Tues.

Hôtel du Cap–Eden Roc.

HOTEL | In demand by celebrities from De Niro to Madonna, this extravagantly expensive hotel looking out on 22 acres of immaculate tropical gardens bordered by rocky shoreline has long catered to the world’s fantasy of a subtropical idyll on the French Riviera. First opened in 1870, the Villa Soleil joined forces with the neighboring Eden Roc tearoom in 1914 and expanded its luxuries to include a swimming pool blasted into seaside bedrock. After the Great War, two stylish American intellectuals—Sara and Gerald Murphy—rented the entire complex and invited all their friends, a stellar lot ranging from the Windsors to Rudolf Valentino and Marlene Dietrich. Their most frequent guests were Zelda and F. Scott Fitzgerald, who used it as the model for Hôtel des Etrangers in his Tender Is the Night. Large, sun-drenched rooms are thickly carpeted and furnished with antiques in the main Second Empire mansion; the waterside Pavillon Eden Roc wing is more modern and enjoys sheer-horizon views. Continental breakfast is included in the price (and so is access to the beach) and everyone dresses stylishly for dinner. Of course, the crème de la Cap crème is the new Champagne Lounge, uncorked in 2013. Pros: no other hotel in Southern France has the same reputation or style; specially designed children’s summer programs. Cons: if you’re not a celebrity, tip big to keep the staff interested; don’t even try to book a room during the Cannes Film Festival in early May; there are prettier hotels on the coast. | Rooms from: €570 | Bd. J.F. Kennedy | 04–93–61–39–01 | www.edenroc-hotel.fr | 104 rooms, 14 suites | Closed Oct.–mid-Apr. | Breakfast.

Hôtel La Garoupe Gardiole.

HOTEL | Cool, simple, and accessible to non–movie stars, this hotel offers a chance to sleep on the hallowed Cap d’Antibes peninsula and bike or walk to the pretty Garoupe beach. A large new terrace with inviting loungers lines the sizable pool, which is framed by high walls and tall pines. Rooms occupy two buildings and are comfortably furnished, the Garoupe offering modern decor and the Gardiole rustic Provençal design. Breakfast is extra. Pros: afforrdable luxury on the Cap; rooms are large; service is correct. Cons: short walk to the beach; limited choices for restaurants within an easy distance. | Rooms from: €135 | 60–74 chemin de la Garoupe | 04–92–93–33–33 | www.hotel-lagaroupe-gardiole.com | 40 rooms | Closed Nov.–Mar. | No meals.

ANTIBES

11 km (7 miles) east of Cannes, 15 km (9 miles) southeast of Nice.

No wonder Picasso once called this home: Antibes (pronounced Awn-teeb) is a stunner. Broad stone ramparts and bright tile roofs help make it one of the Riviera’s most enchanting towns. The waterside location doesn’t hurt either. Port Vauban harbor (gateway to the Cap d’Antibes) has some of the largest yachts in the world tied up at its berths—and their millionaire owners won’t find a more dramatic spot to anchor, with the tableau of the snowy Alps looming in the distance and the formidable medieval block towers of the Fort Carré guarding entry to the port. Stroll promenade Amiral-de-Grasse along the crest of Vauban’s seawalls, and you can understand why the views inspired Picasso to paint on a panoramic scale. A few steps inland, you enter a souklike maze of old streets that are relentlessly picturesque. To visit Old Antibes, pass through the Porte Marine, an arched gateway in the rampart wall. Follow rue Aubernon to cours Masséna, where the little sheltered market sells lemons, olives, and hand-stuffed sausages. Along the way, wander the back alleys, check out the shops, and relax at one of the dawdle-and-dine cafés before paying homage to Picasso at the château-cum-museum that bears his name.

Getting Here

Antibes receives high-speed TGV service from Paris, as well as other cities—including Avignon and Aix in neighboring Provence. If you’re flying into Nice, the No. 250 bus will bring you in from the airport for €10. The Lignes d’Azur No. 200 bus connects Antibes to Cannes, Nice, Cagnes-sur-Mer, and Juan-les-Pins for €1.50; going west to Cannes or east to Nice, you board it at the Briand stop behind place de Gaulle, but note that buses heading in different directions depart from different streets due to one way traffic.

Gare SNCF. | Pl. Pierre-Semard | www.gares-en-mouvement.com.

Visitor Information

Antibes Tourist Office. | 11 pl. du Gén. de Gaulle | 04–97–23–11–11 | www.antibesjuanlespins.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Commune Libre du Safranier (Free Commune of Safranier).

A few blocks south of the Château Grimaldi is the Commune Libre du Safranier, a magical little neighborhood with a character (and mayor) all its own even though it’s technically part of Antibes. Not far off the seaside promenade, the Rue de la Touraque is the main street to get here, and you can amble around the Place du Safranier, where tiny houses hang heavy with flowers and vines, and neighbors carry on conversations from window to window across the stone-stepped Rue du Bas-Castelet. Said to have once been a tiny fishing port, it’s now is the scene of festivals and quotes of Zobra the Greek, who lived here, including his “I fear nothing, I hope for nothing, I am free.”|Rue du Safranier, Rue du Bas-Castelet.

Eglise de l’Immaculée-Conception.

This served as the region’s cathedral until the bishopric was transferred to Grasse in 1244. The church’s 18th-century facade, a marvelously Latin mix of classical symmetry and fantasy, has been restored in stunning shades of ocher and cream. Its stout medieval watchtower was built in the 11th century with stones “mined” from Roman structures. Inside is a Baroque altarpiece painted by the Niçois artist Louis Bréa in 1515. | Rue du Saint Esprit.

FAMILY | Marineland.

At “Le Must on the Côte d’Azur,” more than a million visitors per year delight in dolphins, sea lions, killer whales, and polar bears—there’s even a 98-foot tunnel cutting through a shark-filled aquarium. This huge family amusement park also offers water shows and other main attractions: the Far West, Aquasplash, and Adventure Golf. Kids can spend a ton of energy and parents a ton of cash, but it’s worth the compromise for the less kid-friendly sightseeing parts of your trip. TIP Book tickets online for reduced prices. | RN7 | 08–92–30–06–06 | www.marineland.fr | Marineland €38 adult; €30 ages 3–12 (other attractions extra) | Closed Jan.–mid-Feb.

Musée d’Archéologie (History and Archaeology Museum).

The Bastion St-André, a squat Vauban fortress, contains the recently renovated Musée d’Archéologie. Its collection focuses on Antibes’s classical history, displaying amphorae and sculptures found in local digs or salvaged from shipwrecks in the harbor, including a collection of ceramics from Greece, Eturia, and Magna Gracia. | Bastion Saint-Andre | 04–93–95–85–98 | €3 | Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–5.

Musée Picasso.

Rising high over the water, Musée Picasso is set in the stunning medieval Château Grimaldi. As rulers of Monaco, the Grimaldi family lived here until the revolution; this fine old castle, however, was little more than a monument until its curator offered use of its chambers to Picasso in 1946, when that extraordinary genius was enjoying a period of intense creative energy. The result was a bounty of exhilarating paintings, ceramics, and lithographs inspired by the sea and by Greek mythology—all very Mediterranean. The château, which became the Musée Picasso in 1966, houses some 245 works by the artist, as well as pieces by Miró, Calder, and Léger; the first floor displays more than 100 paintings of Russian-born artist Nicholas de Staël. Even those who are not great Picasso fans should enjoy his vast paintings on wood, canvas, paper, and walls, alive with nymphs, fauns, and centaurs. | Château Grimaldi, Pl. Mariejol | 04–92–90–54–20 | €6 | Sept. 16–June 15, Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–6; June 16–Sept. 15, Tues.–Sun. 10–6.

WHERE TO EAT

Fodor’s Choice | La Taverne du Safranier.

FRENCH | At this bastion of local cuisine, sit on the lively terrace jammed with locals and dig in to mountains of sardine fritters, petit farcis (stuffed vegetables), or a mini-bouillabaisse that is not mini at all. The servers know everybody, and friendly banter wafts over the crowds; don’t be surprised if they treat you like a long-lost friend—including taking liberal license to tease. Reserve well in advance. | Average main: €26 | 1 pl. du Safranier | 04–93–34–80–50 | www.taverne-du-safranier.fr | Closed mid-Nov.–Dec.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit.

FRENCH | After 18 years performing in the kitchens of others, acclaimed chef Christian Morrisset opened one of the best restaurants in the Old Town of Antibes, on the site of what was formerly La Jarre. It is in a contemporary setting with dark wood tables and is gorgeously shaded by a 40-year-old fig tree and a canopy of vines—the shady street is one of the most picturesque in town. The former chef of Juana has kept his prices democratic at lunchtime, when a meal costs around €20; you can easily spend twice as much at dinner. Typical of his style, which focuses on local ingredients, is a saddle of lamb from the Alpilles cooked in a crust of Vallauris clay with gnocci and truffles, zucchini, eggplant, and thyme jus. | Average main: €36 | 14 rue Saint-Esprit | 04–93–34–50–12 | www.christianmorisset.fr | Closed Mon. and no lunch Wed. May–Oct. Closed Tues. and Wed. Nov.–Apr. Closed most of Nov.

NIGHTLIFE

Blue Lady Pub.

Located next to Geoffrey’s British food shop, this pub is frequented by French and foreigners alike (and their kids and dogs). It’s a great little spot to recollect your thoughts over a drink after a long day, or to hear live music. It’s worth noting that it’s more than just a nightlife scene. Beginning at 7:30 am you can grab a latté, smoothies, and even English breakfast (there are newspapers on deck). Or stick around for lunch—homemade burgers or pot pies and fresh salads. Friendly service and free Wi-Fi are bonuses. | L Galerie du Port, Rue Lacan | 04–93–34–41–00 | www.blueladypub.com.

La Siesta.

This is an enormous summertime entertainment center and the largest beach club in France. The casino has 200 slot machines, 4 of which are the only of its kind in France, English roulette and Black Jack tables, a bistro, and a terrace overlooking the sea. | Rte. du Bord de Mer | 04–93–33–31–31 | www.joa-casino.com | Disco: Fri. and Sat. June and Sept.; Thurs.–Sat. July and Aug. Casino: 10 am–4 am Sun.–Thurs.; until 5 am Fri. and Sat.

THE OUTDOORS

Antibes and Juan together claim 25 km (15½ miles) of coastline and 48 beaches. In Antibes you can choose between small sandy inlets—such as La Gravette, below the port; the central plage du Ponteil; plage de la Salis, toward the Cap; rocky escarpments around the Vieille Ville; or the vast stretch of sand above the Fort Carré.

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Vallauris | Mougins | Grasse | Vence | St-Paul-de-Vence | Haut-de-Cagnes

The hills behind the coast are often called the arrière-pays, or backcountry, and this particular wedge of backcountry—between Cannes and Antibes—has a character all its own that is deeply, unselfconsciously Provençal. Its undulating fields of lavender are watched over by villages perched on golden stone, creating vignettes and vistas that inspired Picasso, Matisse, and other art icons. Not surprisingly, one of the highlights here is St-Paul de Vence, home to the Maeght Foundation (which ranks among France’s leading modern art museums) and La Colombe d’Or (an incomparable, painting-covered inn); another is neighboring Vence, where you’ll find the Chapelle du Rosaire, entirely designed and decorated by Matisse. Although it’s possible to get a small taste of this backcountry on a day trip out of Cannes or Antibes, you may want to settle in for a night or two: after dark the scent of the boutiques’ strawberry potpourri is washed away by the natural perfume of bougainvillea and jasmine wafting from terra-cotta jars. TIP One of the best local Provençal markets is held on Friday morning in the delightful 16th-century Valbonne village, about 7 km (4 miles) north of Mougins. There are no museums in this English-friendly spot, but you’ll find endless restaurants and cafés around the place des Arcades for post-shopping hunger. There’s plenty of free parking if you’re driving; otherwise take a €1.50 bus from Nice (No. 230), Cannes (No. 630), or Antibes (No. 10).

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VALLAURIS

6 km (4 miles) northeast of Cannes, 6 km (4 miles) northwest of Antibes.

In the low hills over the coast, dominated by a blocky Renaissance château, this ancient village was ravaged by waves of the plague in the 14th century, and then rebuilt in the 16th century by 70 Genoese families imported to repopulate the abandoned site. They brought with them a taste for Roman planning—hence the grid format in the Old Town—but, more important in the long run, a knack for pottery making as well. Their skills and the fine clay of Vallauris proved to be a marriage made in heaven, and the village thrived as a pottery center for hundreds of years. Even Picasso made clay creations during his seven-year residency here.

Getting Here

Trains from Nice (€5.40) and Cannes (€1.90) arrive at the SNCF Golfe–Juan train station; from there Envibus No. 8 makes the drive into Vallauris proper about every 15 minutes (45 minutes on Sunday). Envibus No. 5 also connects Vallauris to Antibes directly (€1.50), while the No. 200 links it with Nice and Cannes (€1.50).

EXPLORING

Musée National Picasso.

In the late 1940s Picasso settled here in a simple stone house, creating pottery art from the malleable soil with a single-minded passion. But he returned to painting in 1952 to create one of his masterworks in the château’s Romanesque chapel, the vast multipanel oil-on-wood composition called La Guerre et la Paix (War and Peace). The chapel is part of the Musée National Picasso today, where several of Picasso’s ceramic pieces are displayed. | Pl. de la Libération | 04–93–64–71–83 | www.musee-picasso-vallauris.fr | €4 | June 16–30 and Sept. 1–15, Wed.–Mon. 10–12:15 and 2–6; Sept. 16–June 15, Wed.–Mon. 10–12:15 and 2–5; July and Aug., daily 10–7.

MOUGINS

6 km (4 miles) northwest of Valluris; 8 km (5 miles) north of Cannes; 11 km (7 miles) northwest of Antibes.

Passing through Mougins, a popular summerhouse community convenient to Cannes and Nice and famously home to a group of excellent restaurants, you may perceive little more than suburban sprawl. But in 1961 Picasso found much to admire and settled into a mas (farmhouse) that verily became a pilgrimage spot for artists and art lovers; he died here in 1973.

Getting Here

The No. 600 and No. 630 bus (€1.50) from Cannes stop in Mougins; from there it’s a 15-minute up-hill walk to the Vieux Village. Alternately, you can opt for a taxi from Cannes (around €35).

EXPLORING

Notre-Dame-de-Vie.

You can find Picasso’s final home, where he lived for 12 years until 1973, and see why, of all spots in the world, he chose this one, by following D35 2 kilometers (1 mile) south of Mougins to the ancient ecclesiastical site of Notre-Dame-de-Vie. From his room, he could see the 13th-century bell tower and arcaded chapel, a pretty ensemble once immortalized in a painting by Winston Churchill. The chapel, listed as a historical monument since 1927, is said to date back to 1655; it received a facelift in 2013 thanks to 255 donors who contributed 23% of the needed €247,462. Approached through an allée of ancient cypresses, the former priory house Picasso shared with his wife, Jacqueline, overlooks the broad bowl of the countryside (now blighted with modern construction). Unfortunately, his residence was bought by a private investor and is closed to the public. | Chemin de la Chapelle.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Daniel Desavie.

FRENCH | Trained for 23 years by Roger Vergé at the famous Moulins de Mougins, Daniel Desavie has built quite a reputation judging by crowds of regulars at this restaurant that’s ten minutes (7 kilometers or 4½ miles) from Mougins village. His engaging wife, Chantal, who speaks English, makes diners feel very welcome, as does the pristine French Provençal decor. Consider the lobster with tabbouleh and orange-and-mango vinaigrette before digging in to the braised lamb shoulder fricassee. If you want to add wine, there’s a sommelier on hand to help you turn your classic meal into a masterful one. Parking is free. | Average main: €37 | 1360 rte. d’Antibes | Valbonne | From Mougins village, follow D3 toward Valbonne, then take right at Forum roundabout along D103 | 04–93–12–29–68 | www.restaurantdanieldesavie.fr | Closed Sun. and Mon.

La Place de Mougins.

FRENCH | Veteran chef Denis Fétisson (who has worked with Vergé and Ducaisse) is in the kitchen to keep an eye on his masterpieces while the masterpieces of Matisse, Warhol, Dufy, and Picasso keep any eye on you in this elegant eatery where the food is as friendly as the service. No wonder it’s la place to be in Mougins, replacing some of the tired venues that have for too long drawn on dwindling reputations. Each month, Fétisson goes seasonal with le produit à l’honneur, which celebrates one particular product—from scallops to chocolate—in a special menu (€55). There’s also an à la carte menu, from which you might choose Aveyron lamb with chard gratin, artichokes, fresh almonds, chanterelle mushrooms, and zucchini flowers followed by wild strawberry soufflé with spoon biscuits, strawberry sorbet, and mulled wine de Provence. A sommelier is on hand to guide you through a very impressive selection. | Average main: €35 | Vieux Village,41 pl. du Commandant Lamy | 04–93–90–15–78 | www.laplacedemougins.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon., Tues., and most of Nov.

Le Mas Candille.

HOTEL | Nestled in a 10-acre private park, this 19th-century mas (farmhouse) has been cleverly transformed into an ultraluxurious hotel with antique wallpapers, “reissued” vintage furniture, and many other high-gloss touches that make the place Elle Decor–worthy. Rooms—all done in cool colors and country chic—are very refined, with a profusion of pillows, heated towels, and all the hidden electrical hookups you could possibly need. The noteworthy restaurant, completely renovated in 2012, is the well-ordered domain of chef Serge Gouloumes, whose impressive résumé includes stints at Ma Maison in Beverly Hills and the Poisson d’Or in Saint Martin. His succulent menus cause quite a stir in gastronomic circles; watch for items like wild bass in a rosemary tempura clay crust or foie gras tartin with Armagnac. In addition to the main house and the gourmet restaurant, there’s the 19-room bastide, the villa (6 suites), and a Shiseido spa. Pros: award-winning service; beautiful views; parking included in price. Cons: tricky to find; pay extra for a room with a view. | Rooms from: €470 | Bd. Clément-Rebuffel | 04–92–28–43–43 | www.lemascandille.com | 38 rooms, 7 suites | Closed most of Jan. | Breakfast.

GRASSE

10 km (6 miles) northwest of Mougins; 17 km (10½ miles) north of Cannes; 22 km (14 miles) northwest of Antibes; 42 km (26 miles) west of Nice.

High on a plateau over the coast, this busy, modern town is usually given a wide berth by anyone who isn’t interested in its most prized industry, the making of perfume. But its unusual art museum features works of the 18th-century artist Fragonard, while the famed perfume museum and the picturesque backstreets of its very Mediterranean Vieille Ville round out a pleasant day trip from the coast. You can’t visit the laboratories where the great blends of Chanel, Dior, and Guerlain are produced, but to accommodate the crowds who come here wanting to know more, Grasse has three functioning perfume factories that create simple blends and demonstrate production techniques for free.

Getting Here

The No. 500 bus from Nice has daily service to Grasse (€1.50).

Fragonard.

Built in 1782, this perfume factory is open to the public daily for guided tours. | 20 bd. Fragonard | 04–93–36–44–65 | www.fragonard.com | Free | Feb.–Oct., Mon.–Sat. 9–6; Nov.–Jan., Mon.–Sat. 9–12:30 and 2–6.

Galimard.

Tracing its pedigree back to 1747, Galimard has a factory that is open to visitors. TIP For €45 you can create and name your own perfume in a two-hour workshop at Galimard’s Studio des Fragrances around the corner at 5 route de Pegomas. | 73 rte. de Cannes | 04–93–09–20–00 | www.galimard.com | Free | Daily 9–6.

Molinard.

Established in 1849, Molinard offers an extensive factory tour. | 60 bd. Victor Hugo | 04–92–42–33–28 | www.molinard.com | Free | Apr.–Sept., daily 9:30–1 and 2–6:30 (open to 7 and with no lunch break in July and Aug.); Oct.–Mar., Mon.–Sat. 9:30–1 and 2–6:30.

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Provence (Museum of the Art and History of Provence).

Just down from the Fragonard perfumery, the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Provence has a large collection of faïence from the region, including works from the famous pottery towns of Moustiers, Biot, and Vallauris. | 2 rue Mirabeau | 04–93–36–80–20 | Free | Apr., daily 11–6; May–Sept., daily 10–7; Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Sun. 11–6. Closed 3 wks in Nov.

Musée International de la Parfumerie (International Museum of Perfume).

This is one of the more sleekly spectacular museums along the coast. Housed in a soaring structure of steel, glass, and teak, the museum traces the 3,000-year history of perfume making; highlights include a fascinating collection of 4,000 antique perfume bottles. In the rooftop greenhouse you can breathe in the heady smells of different herbs and flowers, while the expert and amusing guide crushes delicate petals under your nose to better release the scents. | 2 bd. du Jeu de Ballon | 04–97–05–58–00 | €3; €4 for temporary expositions | Apr., daily 11–6; May–Sept., daily 10–7 and Sat. to 9; Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Mon., 11–6. Closed 3 wks from mid-Nov.

Vieille Ville (Old Town).

Go down the steps to Rue Mirabeau and lose yourself in the dense labyrinth of the Vieille Ville, where steep, narrow streets are thrown into shadow by shuttered houses five and six stories tall. The studio of native Grassois and perfume creator extraordinaire Didier Galgeweski (at 12 rue de l’Oratoire) is steps from the International Perfumery Museum. | 12 rue de l’Oratoire.

Villa Musée Fragonard.

This museum headlines the work of Grasse’s own Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732–1806), one of the great French “chocolate-box” artists of his day (these artists were known for their maudlin style that stemmed from the type of artwork found on boxes of chocolate). The lovely villa contains a collection of Fragonard’s drawings, engravings, and paintings; also on display are works by his son Alexandre-Evariste and his grandson, Théophile. | 23 bd. Fragonard | 04–93–36–93–10 | Free | Apr., daily 11–6; May–Sept., daily 10–7; Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Sun. 11–6. Closed last part Nov.

WHERE TO STAY

La Bastide Saint-Antoine.

B&B/INN | This ocher mansion, once the home of an industrialist who hosted the Kennedys and the Rolling Stones, is now the domain of celebrated chef Jacques Chibois, who welcomes you with old stone walls, shaded walkways, an enormous pool, and guest rooms that glossily mix Louis Seize, Provençal, and high-tech delights. Imaginative packages are offered online, including “Family Breakaway” for two adults and two children, which includes entrance to Marineland (worth €132 alone), see Marineland. The restaurant here is excellent (try the extraordinary symphony of foie gras terrine with truffles sweetened by celery in Port jelly, or the lobster with a black-olive fondue and beet juice), but expensive. Lunch is a relative bargain at €63. Reserve well in advance. Pros: a bastion of culinary excellence; perks like iPod docks, 1,000 TV channels, and coffee/organic tea in each room; deals on Bastide’s website. Cons: rooms are a touch too Provençal for some tastes; breakfast (€29) not included. | Rooms from: €335 | 48 av. Henri-Dunant | 04–93–70–94–94 | www.jacques-chibois.com | 9 rooms, 7 suites | No meals.

VENCE

20 km (12 miles) east of Grasse; 4 km (2½ miles) north of St-Paul; 22 km (14 miles) northwest of Nice.

Encased behind stone walls inside a thriving modern market town, the historic part of Vence dates from the 15th century. Though its backstreets and alleys have been colonized by crafts stores and “art galleries,” La Vieille Ville remains conscious of its history—plaques guide you through the age-old portes (gates) and around atmospheric little squares, like place du Peyra. The area is especially lively on Tuesday when a Provençal market sets up near the cathedral.

Getting Here

You can catch the No. 400 bus from Nice (1 hr, €1.50) or take the train as far as Cagnes-sur-Mer, and then cover the remaining 10 km (6 miles) by bus or taxi. Motorists should take the Cagnes-sur-Mer highway exit (No. 47 or 48, depending on the direction you come from) and look for signs on the RD 436 to La Colle sur Loup/Vence.

Visitor Information

Vence Tourist Office. | 8 pl. du Grand Jardin | 04–93–58–06–38 | www.vence.fr/tourism.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale de la Nativité de la Vierge (Cathedral of the Birth of the Virgin, on Place Godeau).

In the center of the Vieille Ville, the Cathédrale de la Nativité de la Vierge was built on the Romans’ military drilling field in the 11th and 12th centuries and is a hybrid of Romanesque and Baroque styles. The cathedral has been expanded and altered many times over the centuries. Note the rostrum added in 1499—its choir stalls are carved with particularly vibrant and amusing scenes of daily life in the Middle Ages. In the baptistery is a ceramic mosaic of Moses in the bulrushes by Chagall. | vence.fr/our-lady-of-nativity?lang=fr.

Fodor’s Choice | Chapelle du Rosaire (Chapel of the Rosary).

On the outskirts of “new” Vence, toward St-Jeannet is the Chapelle du Rosaire, better known to the world-at-large as the Matisse Chapel. The artist decorated it with beguiling simplicity and clarity between 1947 and 1951 as his gift to nuns who had nursed him through illness. It reflects the reductivist style of the era: walls, floor, and ceiling are gleaming white, and the small stained-glass windows are cool greens and blues. “Despite its imperfections I think it is my masterpiece, the result of a lifetime devoted to the search for truth,” wrote Matisse, who designed and dedicated the chapel when he was in his 80s and nearly blind. | 466 av. Henri-Matisse | 04–93–58–03–26 | €5 | Tues. and Thurs. 10–11:30 and 2–5:30, Mon., Wed. and Sat. 2–5:30; Sun Mass at 10. Closed mid-Nov.–Dec.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Pigeonnier.

FRENCH | The sight of a lone diner savoring a giant bowl of freshly picked broad beans in their pods sets the tone at this restaurant, which takes pride in its local ingredients. Foie gras terrine, smoked salmon, and fresh pasta are made on the premises, as are the medallions of pork with fig sauce, mashed potatoes, and sautéed zucchini. Souris d’agneau (knuckle of lamb) is a specialty. The terrace stretches over a large part of Place du Peyra, and there are dining rooms on two levels indoors. | Average main: €13 | 5 pl. du Peyra | 04–93–58–03–00 | No dinner Wed. and Sun.

Château du Domaine St. Martin.

HOTEL | Occupying the site of an ancient Knights Templar fortress and set amid acres of greenery designed by Jean Mus, this hilltop domain with its noteworthy restaurant, ecological spa, and helicopter pad, welcomes you with light, airy public salons (where afternoon tea and rare champagnes are offered) and luxurious guest quarters that include two- and three-bedroom villas accented with beautiful antiques. But Le Saint-Martin restaurant on site is perhaps the best reason to come here: Chef Yannick Franques’s creations are superb, and the panoramic terrace views over Old Vence to the Baie des Anges are eye-popping. Famous guests often stay here (Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, among others), so servers are used to discreet excellence. Pros: stunning views; possible celebrity sightings; Martin’s Club for kids in summer. Cons: restaurant decor has been labeled old-fashioned; nothing really within walking distance. | Rooms from: €600 | 2490 av. des Templiers | 04–93–58–02–02 | www.chateau-st-martin.com | 40 suites, 6 villas | Closed mid-Oct.–mid-Apr. | Breakfast.

L’Auberge des Seigneurs et du Lion d’Or.

B&B/INN | Dating to the 17th century and the only hotel set within Vence’s old walls, this former stage coach inn has an ambience à la François Premier. Upstairs, guest rooms are airy and bright, with drapes, bedspreads, and bureau runners in matching hues de provence. Some have great views, as does the breakfast terrace. Downstairs, the restaurant—all copper pots and wood trim—has a rustic, frozen-in-amber charm; specializing in roast meats (the chicken prepared on a spit of vines instead of wood is magnifique), it’s very popular, so be sure to book well in advance. Breakfast is not included but affordable at €9. Pros: lovely family atmosphere; parking vouchers available. Cons: front rooms with views are noisy (especially in summer) while back rooms are quieter with no view; no air conditioning (but fans). | Rooms from: €90 | Pl. du Frêne | 04–93–58–04–24 | www.auberge-seigneurs.com | 6 rooms | Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Jan. | Some meals.

THE ARTS

Nuits du Sud.

Since 1997, world music lovers have taken over the Place du Grand Jardin in Vence from mid-July for four weeks, with up to 9,000 revelers a night gyrating to various beats. Even if you don’t want to buy concert tickets, come for the atmosphere and share a picnic—the music will find you no matter where you are. | 39 rue de 8 Mai 1945 | 04–93–58–40–17 | www.nuitsdusud.com.

ST-PAUL-DE-VENCE

4 km (2½ miles) south of Vence, 18 km (11 miles) northwest of Nice.

The famed medieval village of St-Paul-de-Vence can be seen from the coast, standing out like its companion, Vence, against the skyline. Basically a city-state in the Middle Ages, it controlled its own political destiny for centuries. But by the early 20th century St-Paul had faded to oblivion, overshadowed by the growth of Vence and Cagnes—until it was rediscovered in the 1920s when a few penniless artists began paying for their drinks at the local auberge with paintings. Those artists turned out to be Signac, Modigliani, and Bonnard, who met at La Colombe d’Or, now a sumptuous inn, where the walls remain covered with their ink sketches and daubs. Today, art of a sort continues to flourish in local tourist traps. The most commercially developed of Provence’s hilltop villages, St-Paul is nonetheless a magical place when the crowds thin. Artists are still lured by its light, its pure air, its wraparound views, and its honey-color stone walls, soothingly cool on a hot afternoon. Film stars still love its lazy yet genteel ways, and they might be spotted lingering on the garden-bower terrace of the Colombe d’Or or playing a game of pétanque with the natives under shady plane trees. To enjoy the timeless aura of St-Paul, arrive early in the day (cars and tour buses can clog the main D36 departmental road by noon) or plan on staying the night. Either way, consider dining beneath the Picassos at the Colombe d’Or (reserve in advance), even if the menu prices seem almost as fabulous as the collection.

Getting Here

If you’re coming by bus from Nice, take the No. 400 (1 hr, €1.50). If you’re driving, exit the highway at Cagnes-sur-Mer and look for signs on the RD 436 to La Colle sur Loup/Vence. (GPS users should type in “St Paul” without “de Vence,” and then the street name.)

Visitor Information

St-Paul-de-Vence Tourist Office. | 2 rue Grande | 04–93–32–86–95 | www.saint-pauldevence.com.

EXPLORING

Fondation Maeght.

Many people come to St-Paul just to visit the Fondation Maeght, founded in 1964 by art dealer Aimé Maeght. High above the medieval town, the small modern art museum attracts 200,000 visitors a year. It’s an extraordinary marriage of the arc-and-plane architecture of Josep Sert; the looming sculptures of Miró, Moore, and Giacometti; the mural mosaics of Chagall; and the humbling hilltop setting, complete with pines, vines, and flowing planes of water. On display is an intriguing and ever-varying parade—one of the most important in Europe—of works by modern masters, including Chagall’s wise and funny late-life masterpiece La Vie (Life). On the extensive grounds, fountains and impressive vistas help to beguile even those who aren’t into modern art. Café F, should you need time to reflect, is open year round. | 623 Chem. des Gardettes | 04–93–32–81–63 | www.fondation-maeght.com | €15 | Oct.–June., daily 10–6; July–Sept., daily 10–7.

WHERE TO STAY

Hostellerie les Remparts.

B&B/INN | With original stone walls, coved ceilings, and a perfect location in the center of the Vieille Ville, this small medieval hotel is an uncut gem, even if it’s in need of a little polishing. Lower-priced rooms have street views, but splurge for the vue vallée. The restaurant serves decent regional specialties and is so popular you can expect to wait for a table. Pros: clean; loaded with charm; affordable (most expensive room is €130, breakfast included). Cons: must book at least two months in advance for summer stays; village shuts down at night. | Rooms from: €105 | 72 rue Grande | 04–93–24–10–47 | www.hostellerielesremparts.com | 9 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | La Colombe d’Or.

B&B/INN | Often called the most beautiful inn in France, “the golden dove” occupies a rose-stone Renaissance mansion just outside the walls of St-Paul and is so perfect overall that some contend you haven’t really been to the French Riviera until you’ve stayed or dined here. Walk into the dining room and you’ll do a double take—yes, those are real Mirós, Bonnards, and Légers on the walls, given in payment in hungrier days when this inn was known as the heart of St-Paul’s artistic revival. Back then, it was the cherished retreat of Picasso and Chagall, Maeterlinck and Kipling, and Yves Montand and Simone Signoret (who met and married here). Today, a ceramic Léger mural still lords it over the famous fig-tree luncheon terrace, a Calder stabile soaks in the giant pool, and there’s even a Braque in the bar. This is one of the very few places where movie stars enjoy being recognized. Upstairs, the guest rooms are bewitching, replete with Louis XIII armoires, medieval four-posters, wood beams, Provençal borders, and painted murals (even rooms in the two annexes are flawless in taste). Henri Matisse once called La Colombe “a small paradise,” and who are we to argue? Pros: where else can you have an aperitif under a real Picasso? Where else can you wander in the garden, glass of wine in hand, and stare at a real Rodin? Cons: some rooms in the adjoining villa have blocked views; menu often outshone by the art; service not always a work of art. | Rooms from: €310 | Pl. Général-de-Gaulle | 04–93–32–80–02 | www.la-colombe-dor.com | 13 rooms, 12 suites | Closed Nov.–Christmas | Breakfast.

HAUT-DE-CAGNES

6 km (4 miles) south of St-Paul-de-Vence; 21 km (13 miles) northeast of Cannes; 10 km (6 miles) north of Antibes; 14 km (9 miles) west of Nice.

From the N7 you might think about skipping Cagnes-sur-Mer, with its congested sprawl of freeway overpasses and beachfront pizzerias—think again. Following the brown signs inland touting “Bourg Médiéval,” you’ll find one of the Riviera’s most beautiful villages perchés (perched villages): Haut-de-Cagnes. Alice, of Wonderland fame, would adore this steeply cobbled Old Town, honeycombed as it is with tiny piazzas, winding streets that abruptly morph into stairways, and return-to-your-starting-point-twice alleys that pass under vaulted arches draped with bougainvillea. Many of the pretty residences are dollhouse size (especially the hobbit houses on rue Passebon), and most date from the 14th and 15th centuries. There’s nary a shop, so the commercial horrors of Mougins or St-Paul-de-Vence are left far behind. It’s little wonder the rich and literate—Soutine, Modigliani, and Simone de Beauvoir, among them—have long kept Haut-de-Cagnes a secret hideaway. Or almost: enough cars now arrive that a garage (Parking du Planastel) has been excavated out of the hillside.

Getting Here

Frequent daily trains from Nice and Cannes stop at Cagnes-sur-Mer (get off at Cros-de-Cagnes if you’re heading to the beach); from Cagnes-sur-Mer you can catch a free shuttle to Haut-de-Cagnes. Lignes d’Azur’s bus No. 200 (€1.50) also stops in Cagnes-sur Mer.

Visitor Information

Haut-de-Cagnes Tourist Office. | Antenne du Haut-Cagnes, Pl. du Dr Maurel, | Haut-de-Cagnes | 04–92–02–85–05 | www.cagnes-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Château-musée Grimaldi.

Haut-de-Cagnes’s steep-cobbled Vieille Ville is crowned by the fat, crenellated Château Grimaldi, built in 1310 by the Grimaldis (who now rule over Monaco) and reinforced over the centuries. You are welcomed inside the château by a grand Renaissance courtyard, off which are vaulted medieval chambers, adorned with, among other things, a vast Renaissance fireplace, a splendid 17th-century trompe-l’oeil fresco of the fall of Phaëthon from his sun-chariot, and three small specialized collections: the history of the olive, memorabilia of the cabaret star Suzy Solidor, and a collection of modern Mediterranean artists, including Cocteau and Dufy. Across the château’s plaza, take some time to explore the grand Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-la-Protection, nearly hidden inside some medieval buildings—the Italianate bell-tower gives it away. The chapel is open to the public on weekends during the same hours as the Château-musée. | Pl. Grimaldi | 04–92–02–47–30 | €4; €6 joint ticket with Musée Renoir | Oct.–May, Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5; June–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

Musée Renoir.

After staying up and down the coast, Auguste Renoir (1841–1919) settled into a house in Les Collettes, just east of the Vieille Ville, which is now the Musée Renoir. He passed the last 12 years of his life here, painting the landscape around him, working in bronze, and rolling his wheelchair through the luxuriant garden tiered with roses, citrus groves, and some of the most spectacular olive trees along the coast. You can view this sweet and melancholic villa as it has been preserved by Renoir’s children, and admire 11 of his last paintings. In July 2013, after an 18-month renovation, the museum opened to public view the kitchen and rooms by the garden, which include a set of 17 plaster sculptures donated by Renoir and Guion families, as well as two additional original paintings. Although up a steep hill, Les Collettes is walkable from Place du Général-du-Gaulle in central Cagnes-Ville. | Chemin des Collettes | 04–93–20–61–07 | €6; €8 joint ticket with Château-musée Grimaldi | Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5; Apr. and May, Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6; June–Sept., 10–1 and 2–6.

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Vieux Nice | Along the Promenade des Anglais | Cimiez

15 km (9 miles) northwest of Antibes, 23 km (14 miles) southwest of Monaco.

Some people think of France’s fifth-largest city as a distended urban tangle that’s best avoided—if you are one of them, you’ll regret that decision. Nice, in fact, strikes an engaging balance between historic Provençal grace, port-town exotica, urban energy, and high culture. You could easily spend your entire vacation here, attuned to Nice’s quirks, its rhythms, its very multicultural population, and its Mediterranean tides. The high point of the year falls in mid-February, when the city hosts one of the world’s most spectacular Carnival celebrations (www.nicecarnaval.com). But at any time of year you can appreciate the 10 km- (6 mile-) long waterfront, paralleled by the fabled Promenade des Anglais and lined by gorgeous grand hotels.

Back in the 4th century BC, Greeks founded a market-port here and named it Nikaia. Celts and Romans followed—as did Saracen invaders; by the Middle Ages, however, Nice had developed into an important port and was ready to flex its muscles. In 1388, under Louis d’Anjou, Nice, along with the hill towns behind, effectively seceded from the county of Provence and allied itself with Savoie as the Comté de Nice (Nice County). Thus began a relationship that lasted some 500 years, adding a rich Italian flavor to the city’s culture, architecture, and dialect.

Nice, of course, has continued to evolve. In the 19th century it emerged as a tourist destination when first the English, and then the Russian nobility discovered its extraordinary climate and superb waterfront position. Now it’s being transformed into the “the Green City of the Mediterranean.” For proof, witness the €40-million Promenade de Paillon: a 30-acre park in the middle of town, running from the Théâtre de Verdure to the Museum of Modern Art, inaugurated in late 2013. The redevelopment of Nice’s port is another enhancement, making it easier for amblers who want to take in the area’s Genoese architecture or peruse the antiques at the Puces de Nice along Quai Papacino.

TIP Welcoming to all visitors, the city has earned a Gay Comfort label from the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association. (A “Gay-friendly Guide to Nice” can be downloaded at en.nicetourisme.com.)

Getting Here and Around

TGV trains can link Paris to Nice in 5½ hours. Air travelers can reach town from the airport using Bus No. 98 or No. 99 (€6). The No. 98 stops along the Promenade and at the port; get off at the J.C. Bermond stop for connections to buses up and down the Riviera. The No. 99 goes to the main train station; from there you can access all major coastal locales by rail. If you’re using Nice as a base for exploring by car, consider renting one through Greenrent (09–83–80–98–16 | www.greenrent.fr), at the corner of Rue de France and Rue Meyerbeer: a first in France, it specializes in electric or hybrid vehicles. Within Nice, the modern tramway (08–00–08–00–06 | tramway.nice.fr) is a boon to aching feet; tickets are €1.50 per or €5 for a 24-hour pass. Alternately, you can rent a Vélo Bleu bike (04–93–72–06–06 | www.velobleu.org) at any of 90 stations for €1 a day or €5 a week.

Visitor Information

Nice Tourist Office. | 5 Promenade des Anglais, BP 4079 | 08–92–70–74–07 | www.nicetourism.com.

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VIEUX NICE

Framed by the “château”—really a rocky promontory—and Cours Saleya, Nice’s Vieille Ville is the city’s strongest drawing point and the best place to capture historic atmosphere. Its main core leading to the famous market has been converted into a very attractive pedestrian zone, while the grid of narrow streets, rimmed by houses five and six stories high with bright splashes of laundry fluttering overhead and jewel-box Baroque churches on every other corner, creates a magic that seems utterly removed from the French Riviera fast lane.

EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Chapelle de la Miséricorde.

A superbly balanced pièce-montée (wedding cake) of half-domes and cupolas, this chapel is decorated within an inch of its life with frescoes, faux marble, gilt, and crystal chandeliers. A magnificent altarpiece by Renaissance painter Ludivico Brea crowns the ensemble. | 7 Cours Saleya, Vieux Nice | Tues. 2:30–5:30.

Colline de Château (Château Hill).

This hilltop park, accessible by elevator from the east end of the Promenade des Anglais or by steps from Place Garibaldi, commands the site of a once-massive medieval stronghold of which only a few ruins remain. From here take in extraordinary views of the Baie des Anges, the length of the Promenade des Anglais, and the red-ocher roofs of the Vieille Ville. | Daily 7–7.

Cours Saleya.

This long pedestrian thoroughfare—half street, half square—is the nerve center of Old Nice, the heart of the Vieille Ville, and the stage-set for the daily dramas of marketplace and café life. Framed with 18th-century houses and shaded by plane trees, the narrow square bursts into a fireworks-show of color Tuesday through Sunday until 1 pm, when flower-market vendors roll armloads of mimosas, roses, and orange blossoms into cornets (paper cones) and thrust them into the arms of shoppers, who then awkwardly continue forward to discover a mix of local farmers and stallholders selling produce (try the fresh figs), spices, olives, and little gift soaps. Cafés and restaurants, all more or less touristy (don’t expect friendly service) fill outdoor tables with onlookers who bask in the sun. At the far east end, antiques and brocantes (collectibles) draw avid junk-hounds every Monday morning. At this end you can also find Place Charles Félix. From 1921 to 1938, Matisse lived in the imposing yellow stone building at Number 1, and you don’t really need to visit the local museum that bears his name to understand this great artist: simply stand in the doorway of his former home and study the Place de l’Ancien Senat 10 feet away—the scene is a classic Matisse.

QUICK BITES: Fennocchio.

Choose from a fantastic array of colorful sorbets, gelati, and ice creams—more than 100 flavors in all—and settle in to do some serious people-watching at one of the patio tables overlooking the fountain at Fennocchio. | 2 pl. Rossetti, Vieux Nice | 04–93–80–72–52 | www.fenocchio.fr | Closed Dec.–Feb.

Palais Lascaris.

The aristocratic Lascaris Palace was built in 1648 for Jean-Baptiste Lascaris-Vintimille, marechal to the duke of Savoy. The magnificent vaulted staircase, with its massive stone balustrade and niches filled with classical gods, is surpassed in grandeur only by the Flemish tapestries (after Rubens) and the extraordinary trompe-l’oeil fresco depicting the fall of Phaëthon. With a little luck, you’ll be in time for one of the many classical concerts performed here. | 15 rue Droite, Vieux Nice | 04–93–62–72–40 | www.palais-lascaris-nice.org | Free | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

Worth Noting

Cathédrale Ste-Réparate.

An ensemble of columns, cupolas, and symmetrical ornaments dominates the Vieille Ville, flanked by an 18th-century bell tower and glossy ceramic-tile dome. The cathedral’s interior, restored to a bright palette of ocher, golds, and rusts, has elaborate plasterwork and decorative frescoes on every surface. Note that it’s usually closed between noon and 2 pm and also on Monday. | 3 pl. Rossetti, Vieux Nice | cathedrale-nice.com.

Chapelle Sainte Rita (Église de l’Annonciation).

This 17th-century Carmelite chapel, officially known as the Église de l’Annonciation, is a classic example of pure Niçoise baroque, from its sculpted door to its extravagant marble work and the florid symmetry of its arches and cupolas. | 1 rue de la Poissonerie, Vieux Nice | www.sainte-rita.net | Daily but closes over lunch.

Musée d’Art Moderne.

The assertive contemporary architecture of the Modern Art Museum makes a bold statement regarding Nice’s presence in the modern world. The collection inside focuses intently and thoroughly on works from the late 1950s onward, but pride of place is given to sculptor Nikki de Saint Phalle’s recent donation of more than 170 exceptional pieces. The rooftop terrace, sprinkled with minimalist sculptures, has stunning views over the city. Guided tours are offered by reservation Wednesday at 3 pm. | Promenade des Arts | 04–97–13–42–01 | www.mamac-nice.org | Free; guide tours €5 | Tues.–Sun. 10–6; tours 3 pm Wed. by reservation.

Place Garibaldi.

Encircled by grand vaulted arcades stuccoed in rich yellow, the broad pentagon of this square could have been airlifted out of Turin. In the center, the shrinelike fountain sculpture of Garibaldi seems to be surveying you as you stroll under the very attractive arcades and lounge in the surrounding cafés. An antiques market takes over the square on Saturday morning.

La crypte archéologique de Nice.

Via steel walkways, explore by tour only an archaeological crypt holding the remains of a 14th-century tower and aqueduct that were hidden underground for centuries. The half-acre underground chamber, located beneath Place Garibaldi, opened in 2012. When Nice’s tram system was being built at the beginning of this century, excavators discovered medieval structures that had been razed by Louis XIV in 1706 and promptly forgotten. The Centre du Patrimoine (Heritage Center) offers one-hour guided tours for up to 15 people, but you must reserve with them directly at 75 quai Etats-Unis. The meeting point—place Jacques Toja—is just before Place Garibaldi. TIP Bring “sensible shoes,” as heels can’t be worn in the crypt. | Pl. Jacques Toja | 3906 | €5 | Tours Wed.–Sun. at 10, 11, 2, 3, and 4.

ALONG THE PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS

Nice takes on a completely different character west of cours Saleya, with broad city blocks, vast neoclassical hotels and apartment houses, and a series of inviting parks dense with palm trees, greenery, and splashing fountains. From the Jardin Albert Ier, once the delta of the Paillon River, the famous promenade des Anglais stretches the length of the city’s waterfront. The original promenade was the brainchild of Lewis Way, an English minister in the then-growing community of British refugees drawn to Nice’s climate. Nowadays it’s a wide multilane boulevard thick with traffic—in fact, it’s the last gasp of the N98 coastal highway. Beside it runs its charming parallel, a wide, sun-washed pedestrian walkway with intermittent steps leading down to the smooth-rock beach. A daily parade of promeneurs, rollerbladers, joggers, and sun baskers traverse it, looking out over the hypnotic blue expanse of the sea. Take note of the green-painted bike path that shares parts of the promenade. The sea can be mesmerizing, so be sure not to veer over into the path of oncoming bell-ringing cyclists. Only in the wee hours is it possible to enjoy the waterfront stroll as the cream of Nice’s international society once did, when there were nothing more than hoofbeats to compete with the roar of the waves.

EXPLORING

Jardin Albert Ier (Albert I Garden).

Along the Promenade des Anglais, this luxurious garden stands over the delta of the River Paillon, underground since 1882. Every kind of flower and palm tree grows here, thrown into exotic relief by night illumination. Home base for many city festivals with its Théâtre de Verdure and also Ciné Prom in the summer (screenings of box office hits at 9:30 pm), the garden is the starting point for Nice’s Promenade du Paillon—a 12-hectare park running right through the city, from here up to the Museum of Modern Art. | 2–16 av. de Verdun.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Jules-Chéret Fine Arts Museum).

Originally built for a member of Nice’s Old Russian community, the Princess Kotschoubey, this Italianate mansion is a Belle Époque wedding cake, replete with one of the grandest staircases on the coast. After the richissime American James Thompson took over and the last glittering ball was held here, the villa was bought by the municipality as a museum in the 1920s. Unfortunately, much of the period decor was sold; but in its place are paintings by Degas, Boudin, Monet, Sisley, Dufy, and Jules Chéret, whose posters of winking damselles distill all the joie of the Belle Époque. From the Negresco Hotel area the museum is about a 15-minute walk up a gentle hill. | 33 av. des Baumettes, Centre Ville | 04–92–15–28–28 | www.musee-beaux-arts-nice.org | Free; guided tours €5 (in French only Wed. and Thurs. 3 pm; reservations required) | Tues.–Sun. 10–6.

Musée Masséna (Masséna Palace).

This spectacular Belle Époque villa houses the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (Museum of Art and History), where familiar paintings from French, Italian, and Dutch masters line the walls. A visit to the palace gardens set with towering palm trees, a marble bust of the handsome General Masséna, and backdropped by the ornate trim of the Hôtel Negresco, is a delight; this is one of Nice’s most imposing oases. | Entrance at65 rue de France, Centre Ville | 04–93–91–19–10 | Free | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

Opéra de Nice.

A half-block west of the Cours Saleya stands a flamboyant Italian-style theater designed by Charles Garnier, architect of the Paris Opéra. It’s home today to the Opéra de Nice, with a permanent chorus, orchestra, and ballet corps. The season runs from mid-November to mid-June, and tickets cost anywhere from €8 to €85. | 4 rue St-François-de-Paule, Vieux Nice | 04–92–17–40–00 | www.opera-nice.org.

Place Masséna.

As Cours Saleya is the heart of the Vieille Ville, so this impressive and broad square is the heart of the entire city. It’s framed by early 17th-century, Italian-style arcaded buildings, their facades stuccoed in rich red ocher. On the west flank sits the city’s Belle Époque icon, the Hôtel Negresco. This enticing space hosts an event at least once a month, from Carnaval to the Christmas market; the new Promenade du Paillon, a 12-hectare park running from the Museum of Modern Art (MAMAC) to the Théâtre de Verdure, runs through the square.

CIMIEZ

Once the site of the powerful Roman settlement Cemenelum, the hilltop neighborhood of Cimiez—4 km (2½ miles) north of Cours Saleya—is Nice’s most luxurious quarter (use Bus No. 15 from Place Masséna or Avenue Jean-Médecin to visit its sights).

EXPLORING

Monastère de Cimiez.

This fully functioning monastery is worth the pilgrimage. You can find a lovely garden, replanted along the lines of the original 16th-century layout; the Musée Franciscain, a didactic museum tracing the history of the Franciscan order; and a 15th-century church containing three works of remarkable power and elegance by Bréa. | Pl. du Monastère, Cimiez | 04–93–81–00–04 | Free | Church Thurs.–Tues. 8–6:30 and Sun. 2:30–8:30; museum Mon.–Sat. 10–noon and 3–5:30.

Musée Archéologique (Archaeology Museum).

This museum, next to the Musée Matisse, has a dense collection of objects extracted from digs around the Roman city of Cemenelum, which flourished from the 1st to the 5th century. Among the fascinating ruins are an amphitheatre, frigidarium, gymnasium, baths, and sewage trenches, some dating back to the 3rd century.TIP It’s best to avoid midday visits on warm days. | 160 av. des Arènes-de-Cimiez, Cimiez | 04–93–81–59–57 | www.musee-archeologique-nice.org | Free; €5 guided tour | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Matisse.

In the ‘60s the city of Nice bought this lovely, light-bathed 17th-century villa, surrounded by the ruins of Roman civilization, and restored it to house a large collection of Henri Matisse’s works. Matisse settled along Nice’s waterfront in 1917, seeking a sun cure after a bout with pneumonia, and remained here until his death in 1954. During his years on the French Riviera, Matisse maintained intense friendships and artistic liaisons with Renoir, who lived in Cagnes, and with Picasso, who lived in Mougins and Antibes. He eventually moved up to the rarefied isolation of Cimiez and took an apartment in the Hôtel Regina (now an apartment building, just across from the museum), where he lived out the rest of his life. Matisse walked often in the parklands around the Roman remains and was buried in an olive grove outside the Cimiez cemetery. The collection of artworks includes several pieces the artist donated to the city before his death; the rest were donated by his family. In every medium and context—paintings, gouache cutouts, engravings, and book illustrations—the collection represents the evolution of his art, from Cézanne-like still lifes to exuberant dancing paper dolls. Even the furniture and accessories speak of Matisse, from the Chinese vases to the bold-printed fabrics with which he surrounded himself. A series of black-and-white photographs captures the artist at work, surrounded by personal—and telling—details. | 164 av. des Arènes-de-Cimiez, Cimiez | 04–93–81–08–08 | www.musee-matisse-nice.org | Free | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

Musée National Marc Chagall (Marc Chagall Museum of Biblical Themes).

Having just celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2013, this museum has one of the finest permanent collections of Chagall’s late works (1887–1985). Superbly displayed, 17 vast canvases depict biblical themes, each in emphatic, joyous colors. Chamber music and classical concert series also take place here, though admission fees may apply. The No. 15 and 22 buses stop at the museum. | Av. du Dr-Ménard, Cimiez | 04–93–53–87–20 | www.musee-chagall.fr | €8–€9.50 | May–Oct., Wed.–Mon. 10–6; Nov.–Apr., Wed.–Mon. 10–5.

WHERE TO EAT

Attimi.

ITALIAN | Specializing in salads, pizzas, and pastas—prepared on the spot from local produce—this place offers a refreshing, light alternative to all those heavy French dishes. But Attimi is as hot as the lasagna Bolognese it serves, so you’ll need to reserve or eat early. A seat on the terrace next the fountain at the end of place Masséna lets you dine with a side order of people-watching. | Average main: €14 | 10 pl. Masséna | 04–93–62–00–22 | www.attimi.fr | Reservations essential.

Bistrot de l’École de Nice.

BISTRO | You might walk past this unassuming building, facing a Laundromat, without figuring out it’s a place to eat. But the restaurant deserves a double-take. At this art-and-gastronomy fusion, chef Kei collaborates with a Franco-Japanese DJ and artiste devoted to promoting Niçois arts and culture internationally. The result is a relaxed and very affordable bistrot (note that second t) serving two-, three-, and four-course menus. How can you really choose between gnocchi carbonara with black truffles and lobster risotto with pastis? | Average main: €18 | 15 rue de la Buffa, New Town | 04–93–81–39–30 | www.lecoledenice.com | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

Chez René Socca.

FRENCH | This back-alley landmark is the most popular dive in town for socca, the chickpea-pancake snack food unique to Nice. Rustic olive-wood tables line the street, and curt waiters splash down your drink order. Then you get in line, choose your plate, and carry it steaming to the table yourself. It’s off Place Garibaldi on the edge of the Vieille Ville, across from the old Gare Routière (bus station). | Average main: €4 | 2 rue Miralheti, Vieux Nice | 04–93–92–05–73 | No credit cards | Closed Mon. and Jan.

Co-t-Café.

CAFÉ | This brightly colored local café, a block from both the Hôtel Negresco and the Promenade, has the best coffee in Nice; expect creamy lattés, iced coffees, and cappuccinos, plus teas and smoothies, in all sizes, to stay or to go. Sandwiches and wraps, excellently priced and made fresh each morning, are perfect for the beach. A Champagne brunch for two is also on the menu. | Average main: €8 | 11 rue Meyerbeer, Promenade Nice | 04–93–16–09–84 | Closed Dec.–Feb.

Flaveur.

MODERN FRENCH | Run by a young threesome (two chefs and a maître d’) with an haute cuisine background, this modern bistro is perpetually packed—which means, plan on booking at least a week ahead for dinner and several days for lunch. The key to the trio’s success is the heart that goes into the cooking: the limited menu changes often, and the chefs like to experiment with historical recipes such as petits farcis (stuffed vegetables) from a 19th-century cookbook. The hand-cut steak tartare with chickpea fries and thick gazpacho has become a classic. For €28 at lunch, you can sample the plat du jour with a glass of wine and coffee. | Average main: €20 | 25 rue Gubernatis, New Town | 04–93–62–53–95 | www.flaveur.net | Reservations essential | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Sat.

La Mérenda.

FRENCH | The back-to-bistro boom climaxed here when Dominique Le Stanc retired his crown at the Negresco to take over this tiny, unpretentious temple of Provençal cuisine. Now he and his wife work in the miniature open kitchen, creating the ultimate versions of stuffed sardines, pistou, and slow-simmered daubes (beef stews). To reserve entry to the inner sanctum for one of the two lunch or dinner sittings, you must stop by in person (there’s no telephone and it’s cash only). | Average main: €16 | 4 rue Raoul Bosio, Vieux Nice | www.lamerenda.net | No credit cards | Closed weekends and 1st 2 wks in Aug.

Le Bistrot d’Antoine.

BISTRO | You will not find any “concept” cooking here, just pure French bistro fare at its finest—beef salad with anchovy dressing, butter risotto with truffles, sliced leg of lamb, and traditional pork casserole. Leave room for the day’s dessert, such as the wonderfully warm peach-and-frangipane tart. The prices here are as appealing as the menu. If you can’t score a reservation here, you can try another option: chef Antoine Crespo opened a second eatery, the Comptoir du Marché (at 8 rue du Marché), where he masterfully balances fresh market cuisine at reasonable prices. | Average main: €13 | 27 rue de la Préfecture, Vieux Nice | 04–93–85–29–57 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., and most of Aug.

Le Bistrot Gourmand.

BISTRO | Chef David Vaqué received the Maître Cuisinier title in 2013 for his preservation of French cuisine at Le Bistrot Gourmand, a local favorite since it opened in 2011. The setting is convenient—just steps away from the Hotel Beau Rivage and with an outdoor terrace—but the focus in on the food and the wine. Menu options include black risotto, pan-fried European lobster and Iberian chorizo, and a cappuccino of peppers and ginger, plus a soufflé that may actually leave you à bout de souffle (breathless). The sommelier amazingly seems to know your order before you do; a bottle will set you back around €55. Don’t expect a warm and cheery interior; while the service is friendly enough, the stark white setting with a few dashes of color is meant to keep your eye on the plate. Even so, take a look around to observe what goes on behind the scene at an acclaimed restaurant. One can only hope that the prices stay as humble as the staff. | Average main: €30 | 3 rue Desboutin, Vieux Nice | 04–92–14–55–55 | www.lebistrogourmand.fr.

L’Aromate.

MODERN FRENCH | Ambitious young chef Mickäel Gracieux has garnered acclaim with this chic modern bistro in green, black, and stone near the Notre Dame cathedral. The menu draws on seasonal ingredients, but it isn’t a place with any Provençal clichés—instead, the waiter might whisk off a cubic “cloche” to reveal a goldfish bowl containing crab in ginger jelly with a tart cream sauce and a fennel emulsion (being from Brittany, the chef is not afraid to be generous with the crème fraîche). The visuals won’t disappoint; evening menus are pricey but worth it at €60 or €80. | Average main: €60 | 20 av. Maréchal Foch, New Town | 04–93–62–98–24 | www.laromate.fr | Closed Sun. and Mon.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Felix Beach.

HOTEL | This practical hotel sits a block from the beach on popular Rue Masséna—and, if you choose one of the four rooms that feature a tiny balcony, you’ll have a ringside seat over the pedestrian thoroughfare. All rooms were completely redone recently; and, though compact in size, they’re neat and bright. Breakfast is extra, but you can walk out the door and find plenty of alternatives. Pros: prime location of hotel makes perfect touring sense; owners are so nice that you feel right at home. Cons: rooms can be noisy, especially those facing the street; there’s no elevator and rooms are on upper floors. | Rooms from: €90 | 41 rue Masséna, Place Masséna | 04–93–88–67–73 | www.hotel-felix.com | 14 rooms | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Negresco.

HOTEL | This white-stucco slice of old-fashioned Riviera extravagance remains the icon of Nice today, accommodating well-heeled guests in elegant, uniquely decorated guest rooms replete with swagged drapes and fine antiques (plus a few unfortunate “with-it” touches like those plastic-glitter bathtubs). The landmark—built by Henri Negresco and opened in 1912—epitomizes La Belle Époque, thanks to its marble columns, gilded ceilings, and qualité du Louvre collection of old-master paintings and sculptures; yet the hotel has reinvented its attitude and affordability since a massive renovation. The entrance hall (and the welcome) has lost its stuffiness in favor of a lighter decor, while its awe-inspiring glass ceiling has been listed as a historic monument. See Hôtel Negresco. Le Chantecler (open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday plus Sunday lunch except January) ranks among the finest restaurants in France, with superchef Jean-Denis Rieubland at the helm adding some modern touches to the menu, and drawing in younger crowds. La Rotonde—complete with a carousel of painted wooden horses and a Folies Bérgère chandelier—is an over-the-top setting for lunch and dinner; the impressive breakfast is served in the Regency Salon. For a touch of the Old Riviera, repair to the historic walnut-and-velour bar (the best on the coast) for a champagne cocktail. Pros: like staying in a museum; attention and service from the moment you arrive; food at the famous Chantecler is formidable. Cons: medicore breakfast is expensive (€30) so head to Caffe Vergnano 1882 in the pietonne. | Rooms from: €330 | 37 promenade des Anglais | 04–93–16–64–00 | www.hotel-negresco-nice.com | 96 rooms, 21 suites | Restaurant closed in Jan. | No meals.

Nice Garden Hotel.

HOTEL | It’s hard to believe that this gem of a little hotel, with its own courtyard garden, is smack in the middle of Nice, next to the pedestrian shopping streets and a five-minute walk from the Old Town. Rooms, with original ceiling moldings and chandeliers, are done up in romantic style and all of them look onto the garden scented with Mediterranean flowers and citrus fruits. This is a find, and owner Marion Hoffman goes of her way to turn your vacation into a lasting memory. Pros: breakfast (extra) with homemade jam in the garden; extremely helpful owner; check-in from 2–9 pm. Cons: breakfast leans on the healthy side (where are the pain au chocolats?). | Rooms from: €90 | 11 rue du Congrès, New Town | 04–93–87–35–62 | www.nicegardenhotel.com | 9 rooms | No meals.

Solara.

HOTEL | One block from the beach and two from Place Masséna, this tiny budget hotel perches on the fourth and fifth floors, high above the main shopping street. The owner, Mr Thierry, brightened up the rooms, which are clean if not small, and the service is as good as an upscale establishment. The fifth-floor rooms have terraces (so pay the extra 15 euros), some of which look onto the lively pedestrian street below; breakfast is served here on request. Don’t be put off by the unsavory-seeming ground-floor entrance and tiny, apparently rickety elevator, which is common in French buildings. Pros: location near the beach; top-floor terraces overlooking pedestrian street; sound-proof windows. Cons: unattractive street entrance. | Rooms from: €70 | 7 rue de France, New Town | 04–93–88–09–96 | www.hotelsolara.com | 12 rooms | No meals.

Windsor.

HOTEL | This is a memorably eccentric hotel—most of its white-on-white rooms either have frescoes of mythological themes or are works of artists’ whimsy—but the real draw at this otherworldly place is its astonishing city-center garden, a tropical oasis of lemon, magnolia, and palm trees, only outdone by the excellent service. You can breakfast (extra €13.50) or dine here by candlelight (the breakfast-and-dinner option costs €36 per person), yet with so many eateries close by, you may not want to tie yourself in. Pros: private pool and garden in heart of city; enthusiastic welcome; you can print your boarding pass for free in the lobby. Cons: artist-inspired decor is not for everyone (look online before booking!); street rooms can be noisy; Ultra-Violet elevator is cool the first time but annoying by the end of the week. | Rooms from: €135 | 11 rue Dalpozzo | 04–93–88–59–35 | www.hotelwindsornice.com | 57 rooms | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Acropolis.

Classical music, ballet performances, and traditional French pop concerts take place at Nice’s convention center, the Acropolis. | Palais des Congrès, Esplanade John F. Kennedy | 04–93–92–83–00 | www.nice-acropolis.com.

Bar Le Relais.

If you’re all dressed up and have just won big, invest in a drink in the intimate walnut-and-velour Bar Le Relais in the iconic Hôtel Negresco. It’s worth the price just to get a peek at the washrooms (just don’t trip over the owner’s lounging cat Carmen). Jazz plays beginning at 7:30 pm Sunday through Tuesday. | 37 promenade des Anglais, Promenade Nice | 04–93–16–64–00 | www.hotel-negresco-nice.com.

Casino du Palais de la Méditerranée.

In the 1920s, the swanky Palais de la Méditerranée drew performers like Charlie Chaplin and Edith Piaf; however, the establishment lost its glory and was demolished in 1990, save for the facade we see today. Reopened with hotel service in 2004, the contemporary version has 200 slot machines, plus roulette, blackjack, and Texas hold ‘em poker tables. Theme-night Thursdays include a buffet and live entertainment (€25–€40). The casino is open weekdays from 10 am to 3 am and until 4 on the weekends. | 15 Promenade des Anglais, Promenade | 04–92–14–68–00 show reservations | www.casinomediterranee.com.

Glam.

The hottest gay club in Nice, Glam has the best dance music in town and is open to all clubbers in the know. The only criteria: be cool. | 6 rue Eugène Emmanuel, Port Nice | 06–60–55–26–61 | www.leglam.org.

High Club.

Nice was a sleepy city until High came around. Open from 11:45 pm till 6 am Friday, Saturday, and every other Sunday, tables here come with a bottle: €120 for four people, €400 for a VIP magnum (4/5 people) on top of the cover charge at door (up to €20). | 45 Promenade des Anglais, Port Nice | 06–16–95–75–87 | www.highclub.fr.

Nice Jazz Festival.

For five days in July, the Nice Jazz Festival draws performers from around the world to Place Masséna and Théâtre de Verdure. Tickets begin around €35 per show and can be purchased online directly or from FNAC and Carrefour. Enter at Place Masséna. | Pl. Masséna and Théâtre de Verdure, Espace Jacques Cotta | 08–92–68–36–22 | www.nicejazzfestival.fr.

Seven Blue Bar.

Don’t forget your camera when heading up to this panoramic bar on the seventh floor of the Clarion Grand Aston Hotel. The views of old Nice and the new Promenade du Paillon across to the airport are spectacular, and drink prices are more than reasonable. In the summer, the bar moves to the rooftop, where there’s a pool (for guests) and 360-degree view of France’s fifth largest city. Note that there are 23 steps from the hotel lobby to the bar’s elevator. | 12 av. Felix Faure, Centre Ville | 04–93–17–53–00 | www.hotel-aston.com.

THE OUTDOORS

Nice’s beaches extend all along the Baie des Anges. Free public stretches alternate with posh private strands that have restaurants—and bar service, mattresses, parasols, waterskiing, parasailing, windsurfing, and jet-skiing. The general public can pay to access these: mattresses cost on average €20 per, and you’re expected to buy any food or drink from the restaurant that controls the beach.

Beau Rivage.

One of the handiest and biggest private beaches is the Beau Rivage, across from the Opéra and next to the Jardin Albert Ier. The €19 daily rental fee for a lounger is a good investment (book the night before) as it allows access to the toilets and the shade of a parasol. The beach restaurant is excellent, but you can bring your own beach bag of goodies. | 24 rue Saint François de Paule | 04–92–47–82–82 | www.plagenicebeaurivage.com | Closed Nov.–Mar.

Castel Plage.

At the east end of the Promenade, near Hotel Suisse, there is both a large public beach and a private beach, where you can rent a lounger for about €18, and where the water is calm and clear. The public beach is composed of large stones (galettes), which is more comfortable than walking on pebbles. Jellyfish are less of a problem in this corner than on beaches a little farther west along the Promenade, and lifeguards at the neighboring beach are on duty mid-June to mid-September. Amenities: none. Best for: sunrise; sunset; snorkeling; swimming. | 8 Quai des États-Unis.

Hi Beach.

Just west of the Negresco’s Neptune Plage (with its not-so-friendly service), Hi Beach is a tad more pricy than its sister strands—you’ll pay €22 for a mattress or €14 for chips and guacamole, for example. But there’s free Wi-Fi and three dedicated zones: Hi Energy, Hi Relax and, for the kids, Hi Play. There’s a beach bar and tons of food (including sushi), too, along with Hi Body if you need a massage to help you relax after relaxing. | 47 Promenade des Anglais, Promenade | 04–97–14–00–83 | www.hi-beach.net.

SHOPPING

Alziari.

Olive oil by the gallon in the famous blue and yellow cans with old-fashioned labels is sold at tiny Alziari. | 14 rue St-François-de-Paule, Vieux Nice | www.alziari.com.fr | Mon.–Sat. 8:30–12:30 and 2:15–7.

Confiserie Florian du Vieux Nice.

A good source for crystallized fruit (a Nice specialty) is the Confiserie Florian du Vieux Nice, open every day except Christmas, on the west side of the port. | 14 quai Papacino, Vieux Nice | www.confiserieflorian.com.

Henri Auer.

The venerable Henri Auer has sold crystallized fruit since 1820. | 7 rue St-François de Paule, Vieux Nice | www.maison-auer.com | Closed Sun. and Mon.

La Promenade des 100 Antiquaires.

France’s third largest regroupment of antique collectors form a triangle from Place Garibaldi to the port (Quai Papacino) and along rue Catherine Ségruane at the bottom of the Chatéau (shops are closed on Sunday). There’s a helpful map on the website, which includes side streets like Rue Antoine Gautier and Rue Emmanuel Philibert. Make sure to visit Les Puces de Nice with 30 stalls under one roof in Quai Lunel, and on the third Saturday of the month Place Garibaldi hosts an antique market in the morning. | Pl. Robilante, Vieux Nice | nice-antic.com.

Mademoiselle.

You have to hand it to the French, they even do second-hand fashion right. Steps away from the Hôtel Negresco, Mademoiselle has quickly become a must-stop shop in Nice: Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Hermès. you name it, the gang’s all here, at least in vintage terms. You’ll find lots of luxury brand clothes, shoes, bags, and belts to rummage through—all of it excellently priced and gorgeously displayed. Open every day, don’t be surprised to walk by at 10 pm on a summer’s evening to find owners Jeremy and Sephora sipping champagne with clients. | 41 rue de France, New Town.

Star Dog Boutique.

For the jet-set pet, Star Dog Boutique has iPawds (plush toy with FaceBark, DogTube, and Bark Street Journal apps), Doggle sunglasses, and Oh My Dog! cologne to get Fido’s tail wagging. It’s one of the most fun shops in Nice to browse or at the very least window shop. | 40 rue de France, New Town | 04–97–03–27–40 | jophicotedazur.com.

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Villefranche-sur-Mer | Beaulieu | St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat | Èze | Menton

With the mistral-proof Alps and Pre-Alps playing bodyguard against inland winds, this part of the Riviera is the most renowned and glamorous stretch of coastline in Europe. Here, coddled by mild Mediterranean breezes, waterfront resorts—Villefranche and Menton—draw energy from the thriving city of Nice, while jutting tropical peninsulas—including Cap Ferrat—frame the tiny principality of Monaco. Here the corniche highways snake above sparkling waters, their pink-and-white villas turning faces toward the sun. Cliffs bristle with palm trees and parasol pines, and a riot of mimosa, bougainvillea, jasmine, and even cactus blooms in the hothouse climate. Crowded with sunseekers and billionaires, the Riviera still reveals quiet corners with heart-stopping views of sea, sun, and mountains—all within one memorable frame.

The lay of the land east of Nice is nearly vertical, as the coastline is one great cliff, terraced by three parallel highways—the Basse corniche, the Moyenne corniche, and the Grande corniche—that wind along its graduated crests. The lowest (basse) is the slowest, following the coast and crawling through the main streets of resorts—including Monte Carlo, Beaulieu, and Villefranche-sur-Mer. The highest (grande) is the fastest, but its panoramic views are blocked by villas, and there are few safe overlooks. The middle (moyenne) runs from Nice to Menton and offers views down over the shoreline and villages—plus it passes through a few picturesque towns, most notably Èze.

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VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER

10 km (6 miles) east of Nice.

The character of Villefranche was subtly shaped by the artists and authors who gathered at the Hôtel Welcome. Among them were Diaghilev and Stravinsky, taking a break from the Ballet Russe in Monaco; Somerset Maugham and Evelyn Waugh; and, above all, Jean Cocteau, who came here to recover from the excesses of Paris life. Luckily, this pretty port retains a restorative vibe—despite being flanked by the big city of Nice and the assertive wealth of Monaco. The streets of the Vieille Ville tilt downhill just as they did in the 13th century; and whether it’s just the force of gravity, or the fact that it remains so picturesque, the deep harbor here continues to attract visitors. Set in the caldera of a volcano, it was once filled with yachts belonging to royals and assorted Greek tycoons. Today you’re more likely to spot warships from the nearby naval base, but genuine fishermen still skim up to its docks in weathered-blue barques. Guided tours of the village (sometimes in English) depart every Friday morning at 10 from the tourist office (€5). Just remember to wear flat shoes—there are lots of cobblestone streets and slope-y climbs here.

Getting Here

Villefranche, a major stop on the Marseilles–Ventimiglia coastal rail route, receives more than 40 trains daily from Nice (6 mins). Lignes d’Azur buses also connect it with Nice and Monaco (€1.50). If you’re driving, be advised that public parking typically costs €1.10 per hour and can be hard to find.

Visitor Information

Villefranche-sur-Mer Tourist Office. This tourist office operates at Place Wilson from May through September. | Jardin François Binon | 04–93–01–73–68 | www.villefranche-sur-mer.fr.

EXPLORING

Chapelle St-Pierre.

So enamored was Jean Cocteau of this painterly fishing port that he decorated the 14th-century Chapelle St-Pierre with images from the life of St. Peter and dedicated it to the village’s fishermen. | Quai de l’Amiral Courbet Courbet | 04–93–76–90–70 | €3 | Spring and summer, Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 3–7; fall and winter–Apr., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

Citadelle St-Elme.

Open year round, the stalwart 16th-century Citadelle St-Elme, restored to perfect condition, anchors the harbor with its broad, sloping stone walls. Beyond its drawbridge lie the city’s administrative offices and a group of minor gallery-museums, with a scattering of works by Picasso and Miró. Whether or not you stop into these private collections of local art (all free of charge), you’re welcome to stroll around the inner grounds and circle the imposing exterior. | Harbor | Free | Museums: June–Sept., Tues.–Sat. 10–noon and 3–6:30, Sun. 3–6:30; Oct., Nov., and Jan.–May, Tues.–Sat. 10–noon and 2–5:30, Sun. 2–5:30.

Rue Obscure.

Running parallel to the waterfront, the extraordinary 14th-century Rue Obscure (literally, “Dark Street”) is entirely covered by vaulted arcades; it sheltered the people of Villefranche when the Germans fired their parting shots—an artillery bombardment—near the end of World War II.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Cosmo Bar.

MEDITERRANEAN | Once you’ve discovered Cosmo, it’s a place you’re likely to come back to again and again. Facing the Cocteau chapel with an enviable view of the sea from its terrace, this modern brasserie could easily get away with being merely mediocre. Instead, it serves fresh, colorful Mediterranean food ranging from an addictive anchoïade—crudités with anchovy dip—to Moroccan-inspired monkfish tagine. It’s a favorite of English-speaking expats in Villefranche and it’s easy to understand why, since it brings together all the ingredients that make for a casual yet memorable meal on the French Riviera. Call ahead to be sure of securing a coveted terrace table. | Average main: €28 | 11 pl. Amélie Pollonnais | 04–93–01–84–05 | Reservations essential | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Dec.

La Mère Germaine.

FRENCH | This is the ideal eatery to linger over warm lobster salad or sole meuniere in butter with almonds while watching the world go by. The seaside restaurant opened in 1938, and proprietor Germaine Halap soon became a second mother to American naval officers and sailors who came into port. A movie has been made about “Mère Germaine,” and excerpts from the book Mother of the Sixth Fleet were published in Readers Digest. People come here for the location. The food is tasty, but the fabulous setting in this veritable institution is absorbed in the price. The €42 menu is a better value. Valet parking is avaiable from April to October. | Average main: €45 | Quai Corbert | 04–93–01–71–39 | www.meregermaine.com | Closed late Nov.–Christmas.

Hôtel Welcome.

HOTEL | Somerset Maugham holed up in one of the tiny crow’s-nest rooms at the top, Jean Cocteau lived here while writing Orphée, and Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton used to tie one on in the bar (now nicely renovated), at this waterfront landmark—which remains a comfortable and noteworthy retreat. The best rooms are brightened with vivid colors and stenciled quotes from Cocteau; some top-floor rooms have spectacular views of the great Villefranche harbor; and all come equipped with L’Occitane products. Pros: excellent service; credit card payments in American dollars; artistic heritage makes for a nostalgic trip into the Roaring Twenties. Cons: decor, especially on the top floor, is distinctly nautical in flavor; some rooms are oddly shaped—narrow and long—so they feel smaller. | Rooms from: €227 | 3 Quai Amiral Courbet | 04–93–76–27–62 | www.welcomehotel.com | 32 rooms, 3 suites | Closed mid-Nov.–Christmas | Breakfast.

BEAULIEU

4 km (2½ miles) east of Villefranche, 14 km (9 miles) east of Nice.

With its back pressed hard against the cliffs of the corniche and sheltered between the peninsulas of Cap Ferrat and Cap Roux, this once-grand resort basks in a tropical microclimate that earned its central neighborhood the name Petite Afrique. The town was the pet of 19th-century society, and its grand hotels welcomed Empress Eugénie, the Prince of Wales, and Russian nobility. Beaulieu is still a posh address, but if you’re a picky atmosphere-hunter, you may find the town center too built-up with apartment buildings.

Getting Here

Being one of the main stops on the Marseille–Ventimiglia coastal train line, Beaulieu has frequent arrivals and departures. Bus No. 81 (€1.50) connects it with neighboring St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, while the No. 100 (€1.50) connects it with Nice and Monaco.

Visitor Information

Beaulieu Tourist Office. | Pl. Georges Clemenceau | 04–93–01–02–21 | www.beaulieusurmer.fr.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Villa Kerylos.

One manifestation of Beaulieu’s Belle Époque excess is the eye-knocking Villa Kerylos, a 1902 mansion built in the style of classical Greece (to be exact, of the villas that existed on the island of Delos in the 2nd century BC). It was the dream house of amateur archaeologist Théodore Reinach, who hailed from a wealthy German family, helped the French in their excavations at Delphi, and became an authority on ancient Greek music. He commissioned an Italian architect from Nice, Emmanuel Pontremoli, to surround him with Grecian delights: cool Carrara marble, rare fruitwoods, and a dining salon where guests reclined to eat à la grecque. Don’t miss this—it’s one of the most unusual houses in the south of France. Not far from away is the Promenade Maurice Rouvier, an enchanting coastal path that leads to St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. TIP A combination ticket allows you to also visit Villa Ephrussi del Rothschild in nearby St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat in the same week. | Impasse Gustave-Eiffel | 04–93–01–01–44 | www.villa-kerylos.com | €11; €19 for both villas | Mid-Feb.–June, Sept., and Oct., daily 10–6; July and Aug., daily 10–7; Nov.–mid-Feb., weekdays 2–6, weekends 10–6.

ST-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT

2 km (1 mile) south of Beaulieu.

This luxuriously sited pleasure port moors the peninsula of Cap Ferrat. Yachts purr in and out of its sparkling blue harbor, their passengers scuttling into cafés for take-out drinks to enjoy on their private decks. If you’re not invited to join them, you can still take advantage of the waterside walkways and crescent beach with the graceful green bulk of the corniches behind. Unfortunately, Cap Ferrat is a vast peninsula and hides its secrets—except for the Villa Ephrussi, most estates are well hidden behind iron gates, towering hedges, and tropical gardens.

Getting Here

Ironically, €1.50 in bus fare brings you to one of the most exclusive patches of land on the planet; the No. 81 accesses the cape from Nice.

EXPLORING

Coastline promenade.

While Cap Ferrat’s villas are sequestered for the most part in the depths of tropical gardens, you can nonetheless walk its entire coastline promenade if you strike out from the port; from the restaurant Capitaine Cook, cut right up Avenue des Fossés, turn right on Avenue Vignon, and follow the Chemin de la Carrière. The 11-km (7-miles) walk passes through rich tropical flora and, on the west side, follows white cliffs buffeted by waves. When you’ve traced the full outline of the peninsula, veer up the Chemin du Roy past the fabulous gardens of the Villa des Cèdres, owned by King Leopold II of Belgium at the turn of the last century. The king owned several opulent estates along the French Riviera, undoubtedly paid for by his enslavement of the Belgian Congo. Past the gardens, you can reach the Plage de Passable, from which you cut back across the peninsula’s wrist. A shorter loop takes you from town out to the Pointe de St-Hospice, much of the walk shaded by wind-twisted pines. From the port, climb Avenue Jean Mermoz to Place Paloma and follow the path closest to the waterfront. At the point are an 18th-century prison tower, a 19th-century chapel, and unobstructed views of Cap Martin. TIP You can arrange a visit to the Villa des Cèdres by calling Mr. Marteau at 04–93–77–00–16.

Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.

Between the port and the mainland, the floridly beautiful Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild bears witness to the wealth and worldly flair of the baroness who had it built. Constructed in 1905 in neo-Venetian style (its flamingo-pink facade was thought not to be in the best of taste by the local gentry), the house was baptized “Ile-de-France” in homage to the Baroness Bétrice de Rothschild’s favorite ocean liner. In keeping with that theme, her staff used to wear sailing costumes and her ship travel kit is on view in her bedroom. Precious artworks, tapestries, and furniture adorn the salons—in typical Rothschildian fashion, each is given over to a different 18th-century “époque.” Upstairs are the private apartments of Madame la Baronne, which can only be seen on a guided tour offered around noon. The grounds are landscaped with no fewer than seven gardens and topped off with a Temple of Diana. Be sure to allow yourself time to wander here, as this is one of the few places on the coast where you’ll be allowed to experience the lavish pleasures characteristic of the Belle Époque Côte d’Azur. Tea and light lunches, served in a glassed-in porch overlooking the grounds and spectacular coastline, encourage you to linger. TIP A combination ticket allows you to also visit Villa Kerylos in nearby Beaulieu in the same week. | Av. Ephrussi | 04–93–01–33–09 | www.villa-ephrussi.com | €12.50; €19 for both villas | Mid-Feb.–Nov., daily 10–6; July and Aug., daily 10–7; Nov.–mid-Feb., weekdays 2–6, weekends 10–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Sloop.

SEAFOOD | This sleek port-side restaurant caters to the yachting crowd and sailors who cruise into dock for lunch. The focus is fish, of course: soupe de poisson (fish soup), St-Pierre (John Dory) steamed with asparagus, and roasted whole sea bass. Outdoor tables surround a tiny “garden” of potted palms. Chef Alain Therlicocq has manned the kitchen for 29 years and his five-course fixed menu, including a fish and meat dish, is one of the best values on the coast. Reservations are necessary in the summer, but if you arrive without, ask with a smile for a table and Alain’s wife, Regine, will find you une p’tite place. | Average main: €25 | Port de St Jean Cap Ferrat | 04–93–01–48–63 | www.restaurantsloop.com | Closed Wed. in winter. No lunch Wed. in summer. Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Dec.

Brise Marine.

HOTEL | With a glowing Provençal-yellow facade, bright blue shutters, balustraded sea terrace, and pretty pastel guest rooms, Brise Marine fulfills most desires for that perfect, picturesque Cap Ferrat hotel. Guest quarters are well-maintained and feel like bedrooms in a private home—many have windows that provide views of the gorgeous peninsula, stunningly framed by statuesque palms. Spend the extra €25 and get a balcony. Pros: nighttime quiet interrupted only by gently breaking waves; excellent value for location; close walking distance to beach. Cons: some rooms are small; only 7 available parking spots (paid), and they must be reserved in advance. | Rooms from: €178 | 58 av. Jean Mermoz | 04–93–76–04–36 | www.hotel-brisemarine.com | 16 rooms | Closed Nov.–Feb. | No meals.

Grand Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat.

HOTEL | Just this side of paradise, this extravagantly expensive hotel has always been the exclusive playground for Hollywood’s elite; now, after a grand refurbishment, it is the new standard for discreet Cap-Ferrat moneyed luxury. Perched at the end of the peninsula with floor to ceiling windows leaning out over crashing waves, guest rooms have spectacular views far out to sea. They are a glory of comfort: thick, stark-white and softer-than-soft comforters, mellow olive-green tones, hardwood floors, plasma screens, private terraces—some with their own pool—and acres of sculpted gardens. What more could one ask for? En plus is the Michelin starred Le Cap restaurant (open April to September) headed by wunderkind Didier Aniés, who creates tasty dishes like Aquitaine caviar lasagna or the Saint Pierre (John Dory) with citrus confit; La Véranda offers all day dining and is open all year. Pros: epitome of wealth and luxury, every detail is well thought out and promptly attended to; legendary hotel swim instructor Pierre Gruneberg has taught Picasso to Sinatra to Robin Williams. Cons: forget it if you’re on a budget. | Rooms from: €690 | 71 bd. du Charles du Gaulle | 04–93–76–50–50 | www.ghcf.fr | 49 rooms, 24 suites (8 with private pools) | Le Cap and Club Dauphin restaurants closed Oct.–Mar.

ÈZE

2 km (1 mile) east of Beaulieu; 12 km (7 miles) east of Nice; 7 km (4½ miles) west of Monte Carlo.

Towering above the coast and crowned with ramparts and the ruins of a medieval château, preposterously beautiful Èze (pronounced ehz) is the most spectacularly sited of all coastal promontories and the most accessible of all the perched villages. This translates into hordes of tourists, many of whom come to browse the boutique-lined staircase-streets (happily most shops are quite stylish, and there’s a nice preponderance of bric-a-brac and vintage fabric dealers). If you manage to shake the crowds and duck off to a quiet overlook, you’ll be rewarded with a sublime view of the coast. It’s long been a draw for distinguished visitors—including Georges Sand, Friedrich Nietzsche, and lots of crowned heads. Some have even established local residences: Consuelo Vanderbilt, for one, traded Blenheim Palace for a custom-built home in Èze when she tired of being duchess of Marlborough; more recently U2’s Bono and the Edge acquired houses here.

Getting Here

Motorists should use the Moyenne Corniche, which deposits you near the gateway to Èze Village. The No. 112 and No. 82 buses from Nice also use this road; the No. 100 goes by the sea, while the No. 116 heads up the Grande Corniche (€1.50). Trains arrive at the station in Èze-sur-Mer, and a shuttle bus (€1.50) from there takes you to the hilltop; the trip, with its 1,001 switchbacks, takes 15 minutes. Hikers can follow the Nietzsche Path up; the ascent takes at least 90 minutes.

Visitor Information

Èze Tourist Office. | Pl. du Général de Gaulle | 04–93–41–26–00 | www.eze-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Jardin Exotique de Monaco (Tropical Garden).

Six hundred varieties of cacti and succulents cling to a sheer rock face at Monaco’s magnificent Tropical Garden, a brisk half-hour walk west from the palace. The garden traces its roots to days when Monaco’s near-tropical climate nurtured unheard-of exotica, amazing visitors from the northlands as much as any zoo. The plants are of less interest today, especially to Americans familiar with southwestern flora. The views over the Rock and coastline, however, are spectacular. Also on the grounds, or actually under them, are the Grottes de l’Observatoire—spectacular grottoes and caves adrip with stalagmites and spotlit with fairy lights. The Musée d’Anthropologie showcases two rooms: Albert I covers general prehistory while Ranier III unearths regional palaeolithic discoveries. | 62 bd. du Jardin Exotique, Monaco | www.jardin-exotique.mc | €7.20 | Nov.–Jan., daily 9–5; Feb.–Apr. and Oct., daily 9–6; May–Sept., daily 9–7.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Cap Estel.

FRENCH | For more than 50 years celebs have holidayed and dined at Cap Estel along Eze’s bord de mer. On a private 2-hectare peninsula with all-encompassing views of the Med, it’s no wonder. And now that chef Patrick Raingeard, whose produce comes directly from the hotel’s garden, has added a 2013 Michelin Star to his table, food in France can’t get any better than this. Start with the asparagus salad with creamed cauliflower and wild truffles (€35), followed by the Charolais beef filet à la Parillada in a “Los Lobos” red wine sauce served with a potato and truffle cake (€39), and finish it all off with a banana soufflé. Vegetarian options also available; reservations necessary. | Average main: €42 | 1312, av. Raymond-Poincaré | Charbonnières-les-Bains | 33/04–93–76–29–29 | www.capestel.com | Reservations essential | Closed Jan. and Feb.

Troubadour.

FRENCH | Amid the clutter and clatter of the nearby coast, Troubadour is a wonderful find (and has been for more than 30 years) with high ratings for charm and decor. This old family house provides pleasant service and excellent dishes like roasted scallops with chicken broth and squab with citrus zest and beef broth. | Average main: €40 | 4 rue du Brec | 04–93–41–19–03 | Closed Sun., Mon., and mid-Nov.–mid-Dec.

Fodor’s Choice | Château de la Chèvre d’Or.

HOTEL | The “Château of the Golden Goat” is actually an entire stretch of the village, streets and all, bordered by gardens that hang from the mountainside in nearly Babylonian style, and offering some of the most breathtaking Mediterranean views—at a price. The fanciest guest rooms feature peasant-luxe fireplaces, faux 15th-century panel paintings, and chandeliered rock-grotto bathrooms; nearly all rooms, though, have exposed stone and beams, and even the cheapest have views over Èze’s charming tile roofs. There are no fewer than four restaurants, ranging from the semi-affordable grill to the haute gastronomique grand dining room with panoramic vistas. Linger over breakfast (€38) on a spectacular terrace that seems to levitate over the bay; then take a swim in the pool, which clings like a swallow’s nest to the hillside. Giving further substance to Riviera fairy tales, liveried footmen greet you at the village entrance and wave you, VIP-style, past the cattle drive of tourists. Pros: unique setting; fabulous infinity pool; faultless service. Cons: one-night deposit required for all bookings; no elevator; bit of cobblestone walking involved to reach hotel. | Rooms from: €400 | Rue du Barri | 04–92–10–66–66 | www.chevredor.com | 30 rooms, 8 suites | Closed Dec.–Feb. | No meals.

MENTON

14 km (9 miles) east of Èze, 9 km (5½ miles) east of Monaco.

Modesty makes Menton—the most Mediterranean and the least pretentious—of the French Riviera resorts, all the more alluring. Rubbing shoulders with the Italian border, the town owes its balmy climate to the protective curve of the Ligurian shore. Its picturesque harbor skyline seems to beg artists to immortalize it, while its Cubist skew of terra-cotta roofs and yellow-ocher houses, Baroque arabesques capping the church facades, and ceramic tiles glistening on their steeples all evoke the villages of the Italian coast. Also worth a visit are the many exotic gardens set in the hills around the town.

Getting Here and Around

Trains run here all day from Monaco and Nice; the latter also has links to Menton via Lignes d’Azur’s No. 100 bus (€1.50, 1 hr).

Visitor Information

Menton Tourist Office. | Le Palais de l’Europe,8 Av. Boyer | 04–92–41–76–76 | www.tourisme-menton.fr.

EXPLORING

Menton’s Magnificent Gardens

The French Riviera is renowned for its grand villas and even grander gardens built by Victorian dukes, Spanish exiles, Belgian royals, and American blue bloods. Although its hothouse crescent blooms everywhere with palm and lemon trees and jungle flowers, nowhere does it bloom so extravagantly as in Menton, famous for its temperate climes and 24-karat sun.

Menton attracted a great share of wealthy hobbyists during the 1920s and 1930s, including Major Lawrence Johnston, a gentleman gardener best known for his Cotswolds wonderland, Hidcote Manor. Fair-haired and blue-eyed, this gentle American wound up buying a choice estate in the village of Gorbio—one of the loveliest of all perched seaside villages, 10 km (6 miles) west of Menton—and spent two decades making the Serre de la Madone a horticultural masterpiece. He brought back exotica from his many trips to South Africa, Mexico, and China, planting them in a series of terraces, accented by little pools, vistas, and stone steps. Although most of his creeping plumbago, pink belladonna, and night-flowering cacti are now gone, his garden has been reopened by the municipality (it’s best to visit during its summer glory). Car facilities are very limited but the garden can also be reached from Menton via bus No. 7 (get off at Serre de la Madone).

Back in Menton, green-thumbers will also want to visit the town’s Jardin Botanique, the Val Rahmeh Botanical Garden (Av. St-Jacques). Planted by Maybud Campbell in the 1910s and much prized by connoisseurs, it’s bursting with rare ornamentals and subtropical plants, and adorned with water-lily pools and fountains.

The tourist office can also give you directions to other gardens around Menton, including the Fontana Rosa, the Villa Maria Serena, and the Villa Les Colombières.

Tours

Heritage Tours.

Menton acquaints you with is rich architectural heritage by offering regular visites due patrimoine (heritage tours) to its gardens, cemetery, museums, and villas; tours start at €6. Details on each visit (including points and time of departure) can be found at the Menton tourist office or the Maison du Patrimonie. | 24 rue St.-Michel | 04–92–10–97–10 | www.tourisme-menton.fr.

Basilique St-Michel.

This majestic basilica, in particular its bell tower, dominates the skyline of Menton. Beyond the beautifully proportioned facade—a 19th-century addition—the richly frescoed nave and chapels contain several works by Genovese artists plus a splendid 17th-century organ. Volunteers man the doors here, so you may have to wait for the church to open before visiting. | Parvis St-Michel,22 rue St-Michel | Weekdays 10–noon and 2–5.

Chapelle de l’Immaculée-Conception.

Just above the main church, the smaller Chapelle de l’Immaculée-Conception answers St-Michel’s grand gesture with its own pure Baroque beauty, dating from 1687. During summer months you can slip in to see the graceful trompe l’oeil over the altar and the ornate gilt lanterns early penitents carried in processions.

Hôtel de Ville.

The 19th-century Italianate Hôtel de Ville conceals a treasure by painter Jean Cocteau: he decorated the Salle des Mariages (Marriage Room) with vibrant allegorical scenes; today it is used for civil marriages. | 17 av. de la République | €1.50 | Weekdays 8:30–12:30 and 1:30–5.

Marché Couvert (Covered Market).

Between the lively pedestrian Rue St-Michel and the waterfront, the marvelous Marché Couvert (Les Halles) sums up Menton style with its Belle Époque facade decorated in jewel-tone ceramics. It’s equally appealing inside, with merchants selling chewy bread and mountains of cheeses, oils, fruit, and Italian delicacies daily in Caravaggesque disarray (and clothes on Saturday). | Quai de Monléon.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Jean Cocteau.

On the waterfront opposite the market, a squat medieval bastion crowned with four tiny watchtowers houses the extraordinary Musée Jean Cocteau, France’s memorial to the eponymous artist-poet-filmmaker (1889–1963). Cocteau spotted the fortress, built in 1636 to defend the port, as the perfect site for a group of his works. While the museum has nearly 1,800 ouevres graphic, about 990 are original Cocteaus, a donation from the late California businessman and Holocaust survivor Severin Wunderman’s personal collection. This is a must-see. | 2 Quai Monléon, Vieux Port | 04–89–81–52–50 | museecocteaumenton.fr | €8 | Daily 10–6.

Palais Carnolès (Musée de Beaux-Arts).

At the far west end of town stands the 18th-century Palais Carnolès in vast gardens luxuriant with orange, lemon, and grapefruit trees. This was once the summer retreat of the princes of Monaco; nowadays it contains a sizable collection of European paintings from the Renaissance to the present day, plus some interesting temporary exhibits. | 3 av. de la Madone | 04–93–35–49–71 | Free | Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6; July and Aug., Wed.–Mon., 10–noon and 3–7.

Rue St-Michel.

Serving as the main commercial artery of the Vieille Ville, Rue St-Michel is lined with shops, cafés, and orange trees.

WHERE TO EAT

Mirazur.

MODERN FRENCH | Avant-garde French cuisine by an Argentinian-Italian chef? Why not, if you’re perched on the border of France and Italy, like this restaurant overlooking a cascading tropical garden and the sea on the outer edge of Menton. Mauro Colagreco learned his craft in Latin America before acquiring a solid French base with the likes of Bernard Loiseau in Burgundy, and both Alain Passard and Alain Ducasse in Paris. Today in Menton, he is a perfect example of the wave of young chefs whose style has been dubbed “la jeune cuisine”; for him, the plate is a palette and each ingredient has its precise place and significance. His airy dining room overlooking the sea makes the perfect setting for this expressive cooking, which makes liberal use of those much-talked-about Spanish “techniques,” such as spuma (foam). Set menus start at €45 at lunch and go up to €135. | Average main: €39 | 30 av. Aristide Briand | 04–92–41–86–86 | www.mirazur.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues. mid-Feb.–Oct.; closed Mon. and no lunch Tues. and Wed. mid-July–Aug.

FESTIVALS

Festival de Musique (Chamber Music Festival).

During the first two weeks of August, the Festival de Musique classical concerts take place at four locations around town, including the stone-paved plaza outside the church of St-Michel. Tickets can be purchased for €3 from the tourist office at 8 avenue Boyer. | 04–92–41–76–95 | www.festival-musique-menton.fr.

Fête du Citron (Lemon Festival).

The Fête du Citron, running from the end of February through the first week of March, is a full-blown lemon love-in: citrus floats and sculptures, all made of real fruit, glide through town, and musicians are on hand with entertainment. Think of it as France’s answer to the Rose Bowl Parade. | 04–92–41–76–95 | www.fete-du-citron.com.

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Welcome to Monaco | Exploring | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Nightlife and the Arts | Sports and the Outdoors

WELCOME TO MONACO

Updated by Nancy Heslin

On one of the best stretches of the Mediterranean, this classic luxury destination is one of the most sought-after addresses in the world. With all the high-rise towers you have to look hard to find the Belle Époque grace of yesteryear. But if you head to the town’s great 1864 landmark Hôtel de Paris—still a veritable crossroads of the buffed and befurred Euro-gentry—or enjoy a grand bouffe at its famous Louis XV restaurant, or attend the opera, or visit the ballrooms of the casino, you may still be able to conjure up Monaco’s elegant past.

Prince Albert II, a political science graduate from Amherst College, traces his ancestry to Otto Canella, who was born in 1070. The Grimaldi dynasty began with Otto’s great-great-great-grandson, Francesco Grimaldi, also known as Frank the Rogue. Expelled from Genoa, Frank and his cronies disguised themselves as monks and in 1297 seized the fortified medieval town known today as Le Rocher (the Rock). Except for a short break under Napoléon, the Grimaldis have been here ever since, which makes them the oldest reigning family in Europe.

In the 1850s a Grimaldi named Charles III made a decision that turned the Rock into a giant blue chip. Needing revenue but not wanting to impose additional taxes on his subjects, he contracted with a company to open a gambling facility. The first spin of the roulette wheel was on December 14, 1856. There was no easy way to reach Monaco then—no carriage roads or railroads—so no one came. Between March 15 and March 20, 1857, one person entered the casino—and won two francs. In 1868, however, the railroad reached Monaco, and it was filled with Englishmen who came to escape the London fog. The effects were immediate. Profits were so great that Charles eventually abolished all direct taxes. Almost overnight, a threadbare principality became an elegant watering hole for European society. Dukes (and their mistresses) and duchesses (and their gigolos) danced and dined their way through a world of spinning roulette wheels and bubbling champagne—preening themselves for nights at the opera, where such artists as Vaslav Nijinsky, Sarah Bernhardt, and Enrico Caruso came to perform.

Along with the tax system, its sensational position on a broad, steep peninsula that bulges into the Mediterranean—its harbor sparkling with luxury cruisers, its posh mansions angling awnings toward the nearly perpetual sun—continues to draw the rich and famous. One of the latest French celebrities to declare himself “Monégasque,” thus giving up his French passport, is superchef Alain Ducasse, who said that he made the choice out of affection for Monaco rather than tax reasons.

The Monacans themselves add to the sense of flossy, flashy self-contentment. Nearly everything is dyed-to-match here, even the lap dog in the Vuitton bag, and fur coats flourish from September through May. Doormen and policemen dress in ice-cream–colored uniforms worthy of an operetta, and along the port yacht clubs host exclusive birthday parties for little-rich-girls in couture party dresses. Pleasure boats vie with luxury cruisers in their brash beauty and Titanic scale, and teams of handsome young men—themselves dyed blond and tanned to match—scour and polish every gleaming surface.

As you might expect, all this glitz doesn’t come cheap. Eating is expensive, and even the most modest hotels cost more here than in nearby Nice or Menton. As for taxis, they don’t even have meters so you are completely at the driver’s mercy (with prices skyrocketing during events such as the Grand Prix). For the frugal, Monaco is the ultimate day-trip, although parking is as coveted as a room with a view. At the very least you can afford a coffee at Starbucks.

The harbor district, known as La Condamine, connects the new quarter, officially known as Monte Carlo with Monaco-Ville (or Le Rocher), a medieval town on the Rock, topped by the palace, the cathedral, and the Oceanography Museum. Have no fear that you’ll need to climb countless steps to get to Monaco-Ville, as there are plenty of elevators and escalators climbing the steep cliffs. But shuttling between the lovely casino grounds of Monte Carlo and Old Monaco, separated by a vast port, is a daunting proposition for ordinary mortals without wings, so hop on the No. 1 bus from the Jardin Exotique and the No. 2, which stops at Place du Casino—both come up to Monaco Ville (€2).

TOP REASONS TO GO

High stakes and high style: Even if you aren’t a gambler, the gold leaf and over-the-top Rococo in the casino are definitely worth a long look.

Princess for a day: Follow in Grace Kelly’s footsteps with a visit to the Palais Princier, the official residence of the royal family.

Walk in the park: Yes, Virginia, you can afford to visit Monte Carlo—that is, if you head to its magnificent Jardin Exotique de Monaco.

The Undersea World: One of the world’s best oceanography museums, the Musée Océanographique is an architectural masterpiece in its own right.

Hit the Beach: The chicest spot on the entire French Riviera, Monte Carlo is well known for its underwater diving and its people-watching.

GETTING ORIENTED

Monaco covers just 473 acres and would fit comfortably inside New York’s Central Park. (That said, it also reaches a height of 528 feet, so bring some walking shoes.) Despite its compact nature, everybody drives here, whether from the Palais Princier perched on the Rock down to the port or up to Casino Gardens at the eastern tip.

WHAT’S WHERE

Monaco. The principality’s exceptional position on the Mediterranean seduces the rich and famous, and those who want to see how the other 1% lives. It bristles with gleaming glass-and-concrete corncob-towers 20 and 30 stories high and with vast apartment complexes, their terraces, landscaped like miniature gardens, jutting over the sea.

PLANNER

When to Go

The area is at its hottest in July and August, and the beaches are at their best in June or September.

Printemps des Arts.

Monte Carlo’s month-long spring arts festival, Printemps des Arts, brings together the world’s top ballet, operatic, symphonic, and chamber-music performers at venues across Monaco (Opéra de Monte-Carlo, Oceanography Museum, Hôtel de Paris) as well as in Cap d’Ail and Beaulieu. | Monaco | 377/98–06–28–28 | www.printempsdesarts.com.

Top Marques Monaco.

What can you say about a four-day exhibition where you could buy anything from an AgustaWestland helicopter to a Rolex Submariner to a $55,000 bed? So much more than just exclusive cars, Top Marques takes place in the third week of April at Grimaldi Forum. | 10 av. Princesse Grace,Monaco | 377/97–70–12–77 | www.topmarquesmonaco.com | €50.

Getting Here and Around

From Nice’s train station, Monaco is serviced by regular trains along the Cannes–Ventimiglia line; from Nice the journey costs €3.70 one way and takes 20 minutes. A taxi from Nice will cost around €100, depending on the season and the time of day.

Bus Travel

Compagnie des Autobus de Monaco operates a bus line that threads the avenues of Monaco. Purchase your ticket on board for €2; or save 50 cents a ticket by buying in advance from an agent, a machine, or online. They also operate a solar electric boat from Quai des États-Unis to the casino (there’s an elevator at Parking du Pécheurs); it runs daily from 8 to 8 (€2).

The Conseil Général has an express bus that connects Place des Moulins in Monaco with Vauban station in Nice (past the Palais des Expostions); tickets for the 100X (express bus) cost €4, but run only Monday to Friday. The Lignes d’Azur 100 bus costs €1.50 and leaves from the Ségurane stop at Place Garibaldi in Nice—but be prepared for a long ride, as it takes about two hours. A very popular mode of transport to the Principality, the 100 is often full, so it’s best to take it directly from Nice or Monaco; otherwise it will drive right by you, no matter how frantically you wave. Info for both can be found on the same website.

Bus Information

Compagnie des Autobus de Monaco.. | 377/97–70–22–22 | www.cam.mc.

Lignes d’Azur. | 04–93–85–64–44 | www.lignesdazur.com.

Hotels

Hotel prices skyrocket during the Monaco Grand Prix, so reserve as far ahead as possible. That goes for festivals like the Printemps des Arts as well. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

Visitor Information

Monaco Tourist Office.

Before starting off, arm yourself with a map and a bus schedule or an excellent pair of walking shoes and start at the tourist office, just north of the casino gardens. | 2a bd. des Moulins, | Monte Carlo,Monaco | 377/92–16–61–16 | www.visitmonaco.com.

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EXPLORING

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Casino Monte-Carlo.

Place du Casino is the center of Monte Carlo and a must-see, even if you don’t like to bet. Into the gold-leaf splendor of the casino, the hopeful descend from tour buses to tempt fate beneath the gilt-edge Rococo ceiling—and some spend much more than planned here, as did the French actress Sarah Bernhardt, who lost 100,000 francs. Jacket and tie are required in the back rooms, which open at 3 pm. Bring your passport (under-18s not admitted). Note that there are special admission fees to get into any of the period gaming rooms. For €10 you can also visit the casino daily in the off hours, from 9 am to 12:30 am, with access to all rooms. | Pl. du Casino, | Monte Carlo,Monaco | 377/98–06–20–12 | www.casinomontecarlo.com | Daily 2 pm–4 am.

Jardin Exotique de Monaco (Tropical Garden).

Six hundred varieties of cacti and succulents cling to a sheer rock face at Monaco’s magnificent Tropical Garden, a brisk half-hour walk west from the palace. The garden traces its roots to days when Monaco’s near-tropical climate nurtured unheard-of exotica, amazing visitors from the northlands as much as any zoo. The plants are of less interest today, especially to Americans familiar with Southwestern flora. The views over the Rock and coastline, however, are spectacular. Also on the grounds, or actually under them, are the Grottes de l’Observatoire—spectacular grottoes and caves adrip with stalagmites and spotlit with fairy lights. The Musée d’Anthropologie showcases two rooms: Albert I covers general prehistory while Ranier III unearths regional palaeolithic discoveries. | 62 bd. du Jardin Exotique,Monaco | www.jardin-exotique.mc | €7.20 | Nov.–Jan., daily 9–5; Feb.–Apr. and Oct., daily 9–6; May–Sept., daily 9–7.

Les Thermes Marins de Monte-Carlo (Sea Baths of Monte-Carlo).

Added to the city in the 1990s, this seawater-therapy treatment center stretches between the landmark Hôtel de Paris and its sister, the Hermitage, and can be accessed directly from either hotel. Within its sleek, multilevel complex you can pursue every creature comfort, from underwater massage to seaweed body wraps to light, elegant spa-style lunches, in one of the 37 treatment rooms—almost all with views over the port. After all that walking in the principality, you may need the Monte-Carlo Foot Cocooning Massage (50 minutes; €135) or a Sea-Peel for €150 (45 minutes). | 2 av. de Monte-Carlo,Monaco | 377/98–06–69–00 | www.thermesmarinsmontecarlo.com | Daily 8–8.

Monaco Cathedral.

Follow the crowds down the last remaining streets of medieval Monaco to the 19th-century Cathédrale de l’Immaculée-Conception, which contains the tomb of Princess Grace and Prince Rainier III, as well as a magnificent altarpiece, painted in 1500 by Louis Bréa. It’s best to call ahead to check on opening hours; they tend to vary, although you can usually visit daily until 6 pm. | Av. St-Martin,Monaco | 377/93–30–87–70 | www.cathedrale.mc.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Musée Océanographique (Oceanography Museum).

Perched dramatically on a cliff, this museum is a splendid Edwardian structure, built under Prince Albert I to house specimens collected on amateur explorations. Jacques Cousteau (1910–97) led the missions from 1957 to 1988. The main floor displays skeletons and taxidermy of enormous sea creatures; early submarines and diving gear dating from the Middle Ages; and a few interactive science displays. The main draw is the famous aquarium, a vast complex of backlighted tanks containing countless species of fish, crab, and eel. Make time to visit this musée; if possible, take in one of the remarkable exhibitions, like Shark Lagoon and its 450,000-liter aquarium, running until 2015. | Av. St-Martin,Monaco | 377/93–15–36–00 | www.oceano.mc | €14 | Apr.–June and Sept., daily 10–7; July and Aug., daily 10–8:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–6.

Opéra de Monte-Carlo.

In the true spirit of the town, it seems that the Salle Garnier Opera House, with its 18-ton gilt-bronze chandelier and extravagant frescoes, is part of the casino complex. The designer, Charles Garnier, also built the Paris Opéra, so we are talking one fabulous jewel-box. On show are some of the coast’s most significant performances of dance, opera, and orchestral music. | Pl. du Casino,Monaco | 377/98–06–28–28 | www.opera.mc | Ticket office Tues.–Sat. 10–5:30.

Palais Princier.

The famous Rock, crowned by the palace where the royal family resides, stands west of Monte Carlo. An audioguide leading you through this sumptuous chunk of history, first built in the 13th century and expanded and enhanced over the centuries, reveals an extravagance of 16th- and 17th-century frescoes, as well as tapestries, gilt furniture, and paintings on a grand scale. Note that the Relève de la Garde (Changing of the Guard) is held outside the front entrance of the palace most days promptly at 11:55 am. Les Grands Appartements are open to the public from late March through October, and you can buy a joint ticket with the Muséé Océanographique. Across several dates over three weeks from mid-July a summer concert series can be enjoyed at 9:30 pm in the glory of the courtyard. Tickets can be purchased through the Orchestre Philharmonique de Monte-Carlo (www.opmc.com). | Pl. du Palais,Monaco | 377/93–25–18–31 | www.palais.mc | €8 (includes audioguide); €19 joint ticket with Oceanographic Museum | Mar. 29–Oct. 31, daily 10–6. Closed Nov.–Mar.

Port.

It’s a hike or a ride on bus No. 6 from Monte Carlo to the port along Boulevard Albert Ier, where pleasure boats of every shape flash white and blue. It’s here that they erect the stands for fans of the Grand Prix. And it’s from the far corner of the port that the Institut Océanographique launches research boats to study aquatic life in the Mediterranean, as its late director Jacques Cousteau did for some 30 years. | Monaco.

The Rock.

On the broad plateau known as Le Rocher, or the Rock, the majority of Monaco’s touristic sights are concentrated with tidy, self-conscious charm. This is the medieval heart of Monaco, and where its cathedral, palace, and the Oceanography Museum can be found. You can either climb up the Rampe Majeur from the Place d’Armes, behind the right corner of the port, or approach it by elevator from the seafront at the port’s farthest end (past Stars’n’Bars). | Monaco.

WORTH NOTING

FAMILY | Collection des Voitures Anciennes (Collection of Vintage Cars).

In this impressive assemblage of Prince Rainier’s vintage cars, you’ll find everything from a De Dion Bouton to a Lamborghini Countach. Also on the Terrasses de Fontvieille is the Jardin Animalier (Animal Garden), a mini-zoo housing the Grimaldi family’s animal collection—an astonishing array of wild beasts that includes monkeys and exotic birds. | Terrasses de Fontvieille,Monaco | 377/92–05–28–56, 377/93–25–18–31 | €6 voitures; €5 animalier | Museum: daily 10–6. Garden: Oct.–Feb. daily 10–noon and 2–5; Mar.–May, daily 10–noon and 2–6; June–Sept., daily 9–noon and 2–7.

Nouveau Musée National de Monaco.

To get here take the elevator down from Place des Moulins. NMNM houses two museums, each of which hosts two exhibitions a year. One of the surviving buildings from the Belle Époque, Villa Sauber, with its rose garden, is in the Larvotto Beach complex, which has been artfully created with imported sand. The Villa Paloma (next door to the Jardin Exotique) was recently restored with fabulous stained-glass windows. | Villa Sauber,17 av. Princesse Grace,Monaco | 377/98–98–91–26 | www.nmnm.mc | €6 | June–Sept., daily 11–7; Oct.–May, daily 10–6.

WHERE TO EAT

Café de Paris.

BRASSERIE | The landmark Belle Époque “La Brasserie 1900”—better known as Café de Paris—offers the usual classics (shellfish, steak tartare, matchstick frites, and fish boned table-side). Supercilious, super-pro waiters fawn gracefully over titled preeners, jet-setters, and tourists alike. Open daily beginning at 8 am, there’s good hot food until 2 am. TIP To claim “I’ve been there,” grab a chair outside in the Place du Casino, order an €8 coke or €15 sundae and sit back to watch the show. | Average main: €34 | Pl. du Casino,Monaco | 377/98–06–76–23 | www.casinocafedeparis.com.

Explorers Pub.

MODERN FRENCH | This gastropub “devoted to adventurers” has stone walls lined with photos of intrepid folks (including Prince Albert II), plus a year-round terrace perfect for sampling roast pig or lamb shank. Wash your meal down with one of the 150 well-priced beers. Premium spirits, world wines, and Café de Monaco freshly roasted on-site, are also available. For your late-night munchies, the pub serves food until 5:30 am on Friday and Saturday in summer. | Average main: €25 | Port of Monaco,Monaco | 377/97–98–70–70 | www.explorers-pub.com.

Hostellerie Jérôme.

FRENCH | Prince Albert’s country home Roc Angel is located about 10 kilometers (6 miles) behind Monaco in La Turbie, so it’s no wonder a top-notch dinner restaurant (read: expensive, expensive, expensive) is situated here as well. The prix-fixe five-course menu is €75, while the famous 13-course menu is €130. Chef Bruno Cirino’s scampi Mediterranean in an almond crust with dates or roasted white local figs, sugared black olives, and buffalo milk sherbet has become a signature dish for a reason. Too rich for your blood? Try Cirino’s bistro next door, Le Café de la Fontaine, open all year round for lunch and dinner with €15 main courses. | Average main: €75 | 20 rte. Comte de Cessole, | La Turbie,Monaco | 04–92–41–51–51 | www.hostelleriejerome.com | No lunch. Closed Mon. and Tues. Oct. and mid-Feb.–Apr. Closed Nov.–mid-Feb.

La Trattoria.

FRENCH | Set in the entertainment complex Le Sporting d’Été (an expensive cab ride from the center of town), La Trattoria restaurant overlooks Jimmyz and the Med, and is only open during summer months, but an Alain Ducasse window of opportunity must never be overlooked. Take the advice of the enthusiastic waiters and order the purple artichoke risotto or the roasted chicken breast with macaroni gratin—either of which could prove as much of a revelation as the conversation at the next table (you may overhear something like: “I have 52 million in my bank account”). | Average main: €40 | Le Sporting,Av. Princesse Grace,Monaco | 377/98–06–71–71 | www.alain-ducasse.com | Reservations essential | Closed mid-Sept.–mid-May. No lunch.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Louis XV.

FRENCH | This extravagantly showy restaurant stuns with neo-Baroque details, yet it manages to be upstaged by its product: the superb cuisine of Alain Ducasse, one of the world’s most respected chefs. He leaves the Louis XV kitchen, for the most part, in the more-than-capable hands of Chef Franck Cerutti, who draws much of his inspiration from the Cours Saleya market in Nice. Glamorous iced lobster with chestnuts and Alba white truffles slum happily with stockfish (stewed salt cod) and tripe. The decor is magnificent—a surfeit of gilt, mirrors, and chandeliers—and the waitstaff seignorial as they proffer a footstool for madame’s handbag. In Ducasse fashion, the Baroque clock on the wall is stopped just before 12—Cinderella should have no fears. If your wallet is a chubby one, this is a must. The 400,000 bottles in the wine cellar should offer you enough of a choice. | Average main: €100 | Hôtel de Paris,Pl. du Casino,Monaco | 377/98–06–88–64 | www.alain-ducasse.com | Reservations essential | Jacket required | Closed Tues. and Wed. (but open Wed. dinner mid-June–Aug.) Closed 3 wks mid-Feb. Closed exceptionally Nov.–mid-Dec. 2014.

Quai des Artistes.

FRENCH | Packing well-heeled diners shoulder-to-shoulder at banquettes lined up for maximum people-watching, this warehouse-scale neo-Deco bistro on the port is the chicest of the chic with Monégasque residents. Rich brasserie classics (lamb shank on the bone, potato purée with rosemary, spicy gravy) are counterbalanced with high-flavor international experiments (salmon served sushi-rare with warm potatoes, pickled ginger, wasabi sauce). There’s a fabulous terrace with a palatial view. | Average main: €32 | 4 quai Antoine Ier,Monaco | 377/97–97–97–77 | www.quaidesartistes.com | Reservations essential.

Stars’n’Bars.

AMERICAN | This American-style port-side bar/restaurant/entertainment center is like the Monégasque version of a sport-themed Hard Rock Café. Jerseys and photos hang on the wall, while fat and juicy burgers, cookie sundaes, real ice tea in thick glasses, and (gasp!) pitchers of ice water draw in homesick expats and quesadilla-starved backpackers (so much so that they’re willing to pay €12 for onion rings or €23 for a Big Star cheeseburger). | Average main: €20 | 6 quai Antoine I,Monaco | www.starsnbars.com.

WHERE TO STAY

Hermitage.

HOTEL | They’ve all been here—kings, queens, Pavarotti in jeans—among the riot of frescoes and plaster flourishes embellished with gleaming brass in this landmark yet relatively low-profile 1900 hotel set back a block from the casino scene. This is where the mink-and-Vuarnets set comes <i>not</i> to be seen. Even if you’re not staying, walk through the lobby to admire the glass-dome Art Nouveau vestibule, designed by Gustav Eiffel. The best rooms face the sea or angle toward the port. At the formal, sophisticated restaurant Le Vistamar, chef Joël Garault buys his seafood from a local Monégasque fisherman. Its broad terrace offers one of the most glamorous dining settings in Monaco. Ask about the VIK program for kids. Pros: terraces overlooking casino; outstanding everything. Cons: public spaces not very lively; rooms on street side may have some traffic noise; watch out for €35 breakfast and €36/day parking charges. | Rooms from: €575 | Sq. Beaumarchais,Monaco | 377/98–06–40–00 | www.hotelhermitagemontecarlo.com | 278 rooms, 86 suites | Some meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Métropole.

HOTEL | The 2013 winner for both the Prix Villégiature for Best Hotel Floral Decoration in Europe and Fodor’s 100 Hotels Award “Culinary Gem,” this Belle Époque hotel, set on land that once belonged to Pope Leon XIII, has pulled out all the stops in its decoration—famed Paris designer Jacques Garcia has given the rooms his signature hyper-aristocratic look and Karl Lagerfield is the architect behind The Odyssey pool and lounge. The hotel has a unique distinction of having two acclaimed restaurants: the impeccable Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo and Yoshi, his sushi eatery. The head chef is Joël Robuchon; however, since he can’t be in Paris, Las Vegas, Tokyo, Monte-Carlo, and on television at once, Christophe Cussac runs the open kitchen day to day. If you don’t want a full-blown meal, lighter food is served all day in the super-chilled bar and spa, where you can have the only bamboo massage in Monaco and France or an anti-aging facial. Pros: flawless and attentive service; “Lifestage” spa treatment; unlike other Monaco hotels, this one has an extended entrance off the street you so feel secluded even in the heart of the city. Cons: the food is so superb you won’t want to get out and eat anywhere else. | Rooms from: €700 | 4 av. de la Madone,Monaco | 377/93–15–15–15 | www.metropole.com | 69 rooms, 64 suites | Some meals.

Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel.

HOTEL | Perched on a 10-acre peninsula, with 75% of its rooms offering sea views, this highly acclaimed luxury resort—which immodestly bills itself as “a natural Eden reinvented”—seeks to evoke the Côte d’Azur’s 1920s heyday with its neoclassical columns and arches, exotic gardens, lagoon swimming pool, casino, and concert hall. It might all seem just a little over the top, but there is no denying the spaciousness and comfort of the rooms, nor the appeal of the sandy-bottomed lagoon stretching out toward the sea. If the helipad and yacht mooring seem superfluous, then you probably don’t belong here. There are four restaurants to choose from, the best of which is the Blue Bay, where chef Marcel Ravin serves world cuisine in a hip contemporary setting. Massages are available at the award-winning Cinq Mondes spa. Pros: ultraluxurious, with so much to do that there is no need to leave the hotel; sofas on balconies. Cons: late check-in time of 4 pm; pool and poolside can become crowded. | Rooms from: €1,040 | 40 av. Princesse Grace,Monaco | 377/98–06–25–25 | www.montecarlobay.com | 312 rooms, 22 suites | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

There’s no need to go to bed before dawn in Monte Carlo when you can go to the grand casinos or Jimmyz.

CASINOS

Casino de Monte-Carlo.

The bastion and landmark of Monte Carlo gambling is, of course, the gorgeously ornate Casino de Monte-Carlo. The main gambling hall is the Salle Européene (European Room), where you can play roulette, craps, or blackjack, while the slot machines stand apart in the Salle des Amériques and the Salon Renaissance. Like these rooms, the Salons Touzet (Trente et Quarante and Texas Hold’em poker) also opens at 2 pm, but it has a €10 admission fee (whereas the others are free). Bring your passport (under-18s not admitted). Private areas like the Salle Médecin are for lucky holders of the Cercle Monte-Carlo card, but you can still sneak a peek: €10 will get you an inside look at the closed Casino rooms from 9 am to 12:30 pm daily. | Pl. du Casino,Monaco | 377/98–06–21–21 | www.casinomontecarlo.com | 2 pm–noon.

Salle des Etoiles.

SBM’s Le Sporting, a summer-only entertainment complex on the waterfront, has a roof that opens up to the stars and fireworks, perhaps justifying the €150 ticket for the Monte-Carlo Sporting Summer Festival or the €1,000 Red Cross Gala—although the celebs are also part of the draw. Where else can you see Rihanna, Elton John, Rod Stewart, or Duran Duran in a sit-down dinner venue for 700 people with valet parking? The Salles des Etoiles is open year-round, but hosts music and events May through September. | Le Sporting,Av. Princesse Grace,Monaco | 377/92–16–21–25 | en.sportingsummerfestival.com.

Sun Casino.

Described as the “most American” of all the casinos in the Principality thanks to a more extensive range of gaming tables, the Sun Casino is part of the Fairmont Monte-Carlo. While you can’t hit the tables until 5 pm, slot machines open daily from noon and entry is free (you must be over 18). Don’t be surprised to cross paths with women’s poker champion Isabelle Mercier, a true fan of Sun Casino. | 12 av. des Spélugues,Monaco | 377/92–16–21–23 | www.montecarlosuncasino.com.

DANCE CLUBS

Jimmyz.

Dominating the club scene, Jimmyz boasts an edgy reputation that reaches far beyond Monaco. The legendary disco at Sporting Monte-Carlo is not for lightweights: the partying is as serious as the need to be seen, so if surgically enhanced faces and body parts upset you, then stay at your hotel. Jimmyz takes up winter residence at Place du Casino, which has a retro dance floor and bohemian bar. | Sporting Monte-Carlo,Av. Princesse Grace,Monaco | 377/98–06–70–68 | fr.jimmyzmontecarlo.com | Closed mid-Sept.–mid-Oct.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

AUTO RACING

Grand Prix de Monaco.

When the tennis stops, the auto racing begins: the Grand Prix de Monaco takes place the last Sunday of the Cannes Film Festival in May. To watch live, it’s €10,000 a person to stand on a balcony overlooking the course. If that’s more than you want to spend but you still want to watch action on the same track, two weeks earlier is the Historic Grand Prix of Monaco (but only every other even year); tickets range from €25 to €55. | Monaco | 377/93–15–26–00 for information | www.grand-prix-monaco.com.

BEACHES

FAMILY | La Note Bleu.

Probably the best of the private beaches is La Note Bleu, which has something for everyone with activities for kids, jazz concerts, and an excellent beach restaurant serving Mediterranean-Asian food (and a lounge with Wi-Fi, if you must!). It’s also a jellyfish-free zone, with nets that keep their tentacles at bay. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; showers. Best for: swimming; sunrise. | Plage du Larvotto,Av. Princesse Grace,Monaco | 377/93–50–05–02 | www.lanotebleue.mc | Closed Dec.–Mar.

FAMILY | Larvotto Beach.

The sandy Larvotto Beach just off Avenue Princess Grace, said to be the world’s most costly street to live on, is the only free public beach in Monaco, and it has the added bonus of being protected by jellyfish nets. Access by the No. 4 or 6 bus, you can rent loungers or just bring your own umbrella. There’s a mini-club for kids; dogs are not permitted but that doesn’t stop some owners. TIP SkiVol operates from the Larvotto public beach during the summer season with a great range of water sports including wake boarding, donuts, and fly-fishing. Amenities: water sports; lifeguards; toilets; showers. Best for: swimming. | Right side of pier,Av. Princesse Grace,Monaco.

Plage Mala.

This lovely stretch of sandy, shaded land is easily one of the most stylish of the Riviera beaches, and despite its proximity to Monaco—half an hour by foot—Plage Mala’s public area never gets crowded. Another upside is that the coves under the impressive cliffs produce the best area for snorkeling along the coast. Amenities: none. Best for: snorkeling; swimming; walking. | Av. Raymond Gramaglia, | Cap d’Ail.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Corsica

Corse du Sud

Haute Corse

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner

Updated by Victoria Tang

“The best way to know Corsica,” according to Napoléon, “is to be born there.” Not everyone has had his luck, so chances are you’ll be arriving on the overnight ferry from Marseille or flying in from Paris or Rome to discover “the Isle of Beauty.” This vertical chalky granite world of its own, rising in the Mediterranean between Provence and Tuscany, remains France’s very own Wild West: a powerful natural setting and, literally, a breath of fresh air.

Corsica’s strategic location 168 km (105 miles) south of Monaco and 81 km (50 miles) west of Italy made Corsica a prize hotly contested by a succession of Mediterranean powers, notably Genoa, Pisa, and France. Their vestiges remain: the city-state of Genoa ruled Corsica for more than 200 years, leaving impressive citadels, churches, bridges, and nearly 100 medieval watchtowers around the island’s coastline. The Italian influence is also apparent in village architecture and in the Corsican language: a combination of Italian, Tuscan dialect, and Latin.

Corsica gives an impression of immensity, seeming far larger than its 215-km (133-mile) length and 81-km (50-mile) width, partly because its rugged, mountainous terrain makes for very slow traveling and partly because the landscape and the culture vary greatly from one microregion to another. Much of the terrain of Corsica that is not wooded or cultivated is covered with a dense thicket of undergrowth, which along with chestnut trees makes up the maquis, a variety of wild and aromatic plants including lavender, myrtle, and heather that gave Corsica one of its sobriquets, “the perfumed isle.”

TOP REASONS TO GO

Island Hiking: From a stroll in the countryside to an overnight hike in the mountains, Corsica offers more than 100 peaks and scenic trails, including the famous 201-km (125-mile) “GR20” trek across the island.

Water Adventures: The warm and crystal waters here are ideal for snorkeling, diving, boating, and windsurfing.

Rich Cuisine: Blending French specialties with Italian cuisine, Corsica tempts the palate with the rich flavors of honey, chestnuts, wine, and Brin d’Amour cheese.

Coastal Drives: These curvy mountain roads, skirted by turquoise waters, are not to be missed.

Cultural Exploration: Dotting the island are chapels, towers, and more than 350 villages framed by fields of grazing goats and sheep. Corsica’s cultural treasures, preserved through centuries of tradition, find expression in the island’s art, music, food, and festivals.

GETTING ORIENTED

The northern half of the island (Haute Corse) is generally wilder than the southern half (Corse du Sud), which is hotter and more barren. Southern Corsica’s archaeological sites at the Col de Bavella and its majestic Laricio pine forest, and the ancient towns of Bonifacio all rank indisputably among the island’s finest treasures. One of the prettiest drives is the tour around the northward-pointing finger of Cap Corse. Don’t hesitate to drive into the interior highlands, the true Corsica; if you spend too much time at sea level you’ll be missing the remote villages and dramatic heights for which the island is famous.

WHAT’S WHERE

Corse du Sud. Southern Corsica prides itself on its picturesque coastline, ancient hilltop villages, fortified cities, prehistoric sites, and breathtaking natural wonders. The regional capital of Ajaccio, Napoléon’s birthplace, remains the island’s modern commercial hub. Famous for its dramatic white limestone cliff-top setting, historic Bonaficio is the stunning backdrop to the postcard-perfect marine reserve surrounding the Lavezzi Islands—a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Haute Corse. The natural savage beauty that defines northern Corsica begins in the lush promontory of Cap Corse with its mountain ridges running down the peninsula’s center to traditional fishing villages and picturesque harbors. The north is also renowned as an important wine-producing region where some of the finest vineyards benefit from the area’s fertile soil and perfect temperatures.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

The best time to visit Corsica is fall or spring, when the weather is cool. Most Corsican culinary specialties are at their best between October and June. Try to avoid July and August, when mostly French and Italian vacationers fill hotels, crowd beaches, and jam roads. Prices soar and the Corsican temperament is at its most volatile. In winter the island has the best weather in France, but a majority of the hotels and restaurants are closed.

Travelers enjoying Corsica’s laid-back vibe might be surprised to hear that it has the highest homicide rate per capita in France. Organized crime is the reason, and a spate of bombings and shootings has not helped improve the island’s reputation. The good news is that none of the violence has targeted visitors, and the government of France is so confident that things are under control that it allowed the Tour de France to pass through the island for the first time in 2013.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Air Travel

Air France has daily service connecting Paris and Lyon with Ajaccio and Bastia. Air Corsica (formerly Compagnie Corse Méditérranée) connects Ajaccio and Bastia to Nice and Marseille with several flights a day.

Airports

Corsica has four major airports: Ajaccio, Bastia, Figari, and Calvi. The airports at Ajaccio and Bastia run regular shuttle-bus services to and from town. Taxis are also available in front of the terminals. Expect to pay around €25 to €30 to go from Campo dell’Oro to Ajaccio; €37 from Poretta Airport to Bastia. At Figari a bus during summer months meets all incoming flights and will take passengers as far as Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio for about €9.

Contacts

Ajaccio–Campo dell’Oro (AJA). | N193, | Campo Dell’Oro, Corsica | 04–95–23–56–56 | www.2a.cci.fr/aeroport_napoleon_bonaparte_ajaccio.html.

Bastia–Poretta (BIA). | D507, | Lucciana | 04–95–55–96–96 | www.bastia.aeroport.fr.

Calvi–Ste Catherine (CLY). | D81, 6.5 km (4 miles) southeast of Calvi, | Calvi | 04–95–65–88–88 | www.calvi.aeroport.fr.

Figari–Sud Corse (FSC). | D322, | Figari | 04–95–71–10–10 | www.aeroport.fr.

Boat and Ferry Travel

Regular car ferries run from Marseille, Nice, and Toulon to Ajaccio and Basta. These crossings take from 5 to 10 hours, with sleeping cabins available. The high-speed ferry from Nice to Bastia takes about three hours. Package deals, which include making the crossing with a car, an onboard cabin, and a hotel in Corsica, are available from SNCM, the Société Nationale Maritime Corse-Méditérranée. Connections from the Italian mainland are run by Corsica Ferries. Moby Lines also runs Italian mainland connections. Sardinia can be reached by ferry from Bastia or Bonifacio on Moby Lines. Saremar also runs ferries to Sardinia. La Méridionale runs a service from Marseille to Ajaccio, Bastia and Propriano in Corsica and Porto Torres in Sardinia.

Contacts

SNCM. | 04–95–54–66–58 | www.sncm.fr.

CMN (Compagnie Meridionale de Navigation). | 04–95–11–01 00 | www.lameridionale.com.

Corsica Ferries. | 0825/095–095 | www.corsica-ferries.fr.

La Méridionale. | Port de Commerce, Boulevard Sampiero, | Ajaccio | 04–95–11–01– 15 | www.lameridionale.fr.

Moby Lines. | 04–95–31–46–29 | www.mobylines.fr.

Saremar. | 04–95–73–00–96 | www.saremar.it.

Bus Travel

The local bus network is geared to residents who take it to school and work, not for tourists. At least two buses a day connect all the southern towns with Ajaccio, while northern towns are connected by bus to Bastia. Many independent bus operators journey between villages and main cities in large coaches and some smaller vehicles. Timetables and prices vary with each company.

Car Travel

Though driving is undoubtedly the best way to explore the island’s scenic stretches, note that winding, mountainous roads, uneven surfaces, and microclimates with fog or precipitation can actually double or triple your expected travel time. A good map is essential. Drive defensively: you’ll find that others on the road tend to move at terrifying speeds, even at curves. Night driving, especially in the mountains, is not recommended since many areas are poorly lighted.

Car Rentals

Hertz serves the entire island; its 18 offices are at all airports, harbors, and in the major towns. All airports have numerous options. Be sure to reserve at least two weeks in advance in July and August.

Cruise Travel

Ships dock in Ajaccio port, a short walk from the town of Ajaccio. Cafés and shops can be found immediately outside the port gates.

The local bus network, catering to locals (not tourists), operates at least two buses a day to connect all the southern towns with Ajaccio, but timetables may not coincide with your ship’s departure time, so check carefully.

Renting a vehicle would allow you to explore several towns and surrounding attractions during your stay on the island; however, be aware that travel times may be longer than map distances suggest, because the mountain roads can be narrow and winding. Vehicle rental costs approximately €60 per day for an economy manual car. Delivery to the port will be an additional charge. Hertz serves the entire island; its 18 offices are at all airports and harbors and in the major towns. Be sure to reserve at least two weeks in advance in July and August.

Train Travel

The main line of Corsica’s simple rail network runs from Ajaccio, in the west, to Corte, in the central valley, then divides at Ponte Leccia. From here one line continues to L’Ile Rousse and Calvi, in the north, and the other to Bastia, in the northeast. Another service runs four times daily between Ajaccio and Bastia.

Contacts

SNCF Ajaccio. | Pl. de la Gare, | Ajaccio | 04–95–23–11–03 | www.ter-sncf.com.

SNCF Bastia. | Rue Marcel Paul, | Bastia | 04–95–32–80–61 | www.ter-sncf.com.

SNCF Calvi. | Av. de la République, | Calvi | 04–95–65–00–61 | www.ter-sncf.com.

SNCF Ponte Leccia. | Gare de Ponte Leccia, N197, | Ponte Leccia | 04–95–47–61–29 | www.ter-sncf.com.

ESSENTIALS

Business Hours

Stores are open Monday through Saturday from 9 to 7, but many close at lunchtime (usually from noon to 2 or 3), and some open later and on Sunday during July and August. Museums are open from 10 to 5, but most are closed on either Monday or Tuesday. Hours vary between peak and off-peak seasons.

RESTAURANTS

Corsican cuisine has been called a “winter cuisine,” better between October and May, when game like sanglier (wild boar) as well as brocciu are well represented on all menus. The Corsican maquis grows some of Europe’s wildest flora and fauna, ranging from free-range pigs to woodcock and pigeon. Chestnuts are a Corsican staple not to miss, whether in pastries, pulenta, or beer, while cheeses, especially the characteristic brocciu fresh cheese, are omnipresent upland delicacies.

HOTELS

Corsica’s fermes-auberges (farmhouse-inns) have had a healthy dose of restoration, and tastefully designed hotels are still being built. During the peak season (from July to mid-September) prices are significantly higher, and some hotels insist that charges for breakfast and dinner be tacked onto the price. The best seaside hotels are priced only marginally lower than on the Riviera, but lodgings in the interior villages remain substantially cheaper. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

The Agence du Tourisme de la Corse can provide practical and in-depth information about the whole island. The Parc Naturel Régional de la Corse, Corsica’s wildlife and natural-resource management authority, controlling well over a third of the island, can provide trail maps, booklets, and a wide variety of information.

Contacts

Agence du Tourisme de la Corse | 17 bd. Roi-Jérôme, | Ajaccio | 04–95–51–77–77 | www.visit-corsica.com | Mon.–Thurs. 8–noon and 2–5:30, Fri. 8–noon and 2–5.

TOURS

Boat Tours

Most of Corsica’s spectacular scenery is best viewed from the water. Colombo Line and Promenades en Mer, in Calvi, organize whole-day glass-bottom boat tours. Nave Va Promenades en Mer, in Ajaccio, organizes twice-daily trips to the stunning Iles Sanguinaires. Vedettes Christina arranges outings from Bonifacio to the Iles Lavezzi, Les Calanches, and Les Grottes.

Contacts

Colombo Line Cruises. | Quai Landry, | Calvi | 04–95–65–32–10 | www.colombo-line.com.

Nave Va Promenades en Mer. | Quai Napoléon, | Ajaccio | 04–95–51–31–31 | www.naveva.com.

La Cuisine Sauvage

Authentic Corsican fare is based on free-range livestock, game (especially sanglier, or wild boar), herbs, and wild mushrooms best found between October and May in the villages of the mountainous interior. Civets (meaty stews) headline menus, as do the many versions of the prototypical, hearty Corsican soup (soupe paysanne, soupe corse, or soupe de montagne) made from herbs and vegetables simmered for hours with a ham bone. Seafood dishes available on the coast include aziminu, a rich bouillabaisse.

Excellent charcuterie (pork products) include lonzu (shoulder), coppa (fillet), and figatelli (liver sausage), along with prizuttu (ham). Corsica’s most emblematic cheese is really not a cheese at all: brocciu (pronounced broach), similar to ricotta, is used in omelets, fiadone (cheesecake), fritelli (chestnut-flour doughnuts), and as stuffing for trout or rabbit. Cheeses from Corsica’s microregions include bastelicaccia, a soft, creamy sheep cheese, and the harder and sharper sartenais. Many of the most powerful cheeses are simply designated as brebis (sheep) or chèvre (goat).

Chestnuts and chestnut flour, major players in Corsican gastronomy, are found in castagna (Corsican for chestnut), a cake; panetta, a kind of bread; canistrelli, dry cookies; beignets; pulenta, a doughy bread; and Pietra, chestnut beer. Corsica’s best wines include the Arenas, Orenga de Gaffory, and Gentile cellars from the Patrimonio vineyards; Domaine Peraldi, Clos de Capitoro, or Clos Alzeto, from Ajaccio; Fiumicicoli, from Sartène; or Domaine de Torracia, from Porto-Vecchio.

Bus Tours

Ollandini arranges whole- and half-day bus tours of the island, leaving from Ajaccio.

Contacts

Ollandini Voyages. | 1 rue Paul Colonna d’Istria, | Ajaccio | 04–95–23–92–00 | www.groupencorse.com.

Walking Tours

Two- and three-day guided hikes through the mountains and lake region are organized by several walking and hiking associations.

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Ajaccio | Porticcio | Filitosa | Sartène | Ste-Lucie-de-Tallano | Bonifacio | Col de Bavella | Aléria

Corse du Sud includes the French administrative capital of Ajaccio, the more mountainous zones, and the fortressed towns of Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio. A beautiful combination of natural beauty and ancient history, the region is known as Napoléon’s birthplace and visited for its exceptional sandy beaches, dramatic promontories, and stunning coves.

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AJACCIO

40 mins by plane, 5–10 hrs by ferry from Marseille, Nice, or Toulon.

Considered Corsica’s primary commercial and cultural hub, the largest city and regional capital of Ajaccio is situated on the west coast of the island, approximately 644 km (400 miles) southeast of Marseille, France. Founded in 1492, vestiges of ancient Corsica in this ville impériale revolve around the city’s most famous son, Napoléon Bonaparte, whose family home—now the national museum Maison Bonaparte—pays tribute to the emperor’s historical influence.

Remnants from what was originally a 12th-century Genoese colony are still visible around the Old Town near the imposing citadel and watchtower. Perfect for exploring, the luminous seaside city surrounded by snowcapped mountains and pretty beaches offers numerous sites, eateries, side streets, and a popular harbor, where sailboats and fishing vessels moor in the picturesque Tino Rossi port lined with well-established restaurants and cafés serving fresh local fare.

Getting Here

Flights into Aéroport d’Ajaccio-Campo dell’Oro arrive regularly. To travel the short 5-km (3-mile) distance into the city center, take a shuttle bus to the main Gare Routière station that operates Monday to Saturday (€4.50). Alternatively, a taxi (€15) will take approximately 20 minutes. Ferries from Nice, Toulon, and Marseilles in France connect directly to Ajaccio and operate up to eight times daily. The average ferry crossing time is six hours.

Visitor Information

Office de Tourisme d’Ajaccio. | 3 bd. du Roi Jérôme | 04–95–51–53–03 | www.ajaccio-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale Notre Dame de L’Assomption.

The 16th-century baroque cathedral where Napoléon was baptized sits at the end of rue St-Charles. The interior is covered with trompe-l’oeil frescoes, and the high altar, from a church in Lucca, Italy, was donated by Napoléon’s sister Eliza after he made her princess of Tuscany. Eugène Delacroix’s The Triumph of Religion hangs above the Virgin of the Sacred Heart marble altar from the 17th-century. | Rue Forcioli Conti. | 04–95–21–41–14 | www.ajaccio-tourisme.com | Free.

Chapelle Impériale.

In the south wing of the Palais Fesch, the neo-Renaissance-style Imperial Chapel was built in 1857 by Napoléon’s nephew, Napoléon III, to accommodate the tombs of the Bonaparte family (Napoléon Bonaparte himself is buried in the Hôtel des Invalides in Paris). The Coptic crucifix over the altar was taken from Egypt during the general’s 1798 campaign. Renovated in 2012, the somber chapel officially classified as a historic monument is constructed from the white calcified stone of St. Florent and worth a visit to view its neoclassical cupola and ecclesiastical iconography. | 50–52 rue Cardinal Fesch | 04–95–21–48–17 | €1.50.

Eglise St-Jean Baptiste.

At the intersection of rue du Roi-de-Rome and rue Saint Charles, you can visit the confrérie, or religious brotherhood, of St. Jean Baptiste. On June 24, the patron saint is honored with a solemn mass conducted by the city’s bishop and Corsican music concert. | Rue du Roi-de-Rome | 04–95–22–27–38 | Free.

Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall).

Ajaccio’s town hall has an Empire-style grand salon hung with portraits of a long line of Bonapartes. You’ll find a fine bust of Letizia, Napoléon’s formidable mother, a bronze death mask of the emperor himself, and a frescoed ceiling depicting Napoléon’s meteoric rise. | Pl. Maréchal-Foch, Av. Antoine Serafini | 04–95–51–52–53 | www.ajaccio.fr | €2.30 | Weekdays 9–noon and 2–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Maison Bonaparte (Bonaparte House).

One of four national historic museums dedicated to Napoléon, the multilevel house where the emperor was born on August 15, 1769, contains memorabilia and paintings of the extended Bonaparte family. History aficionados can tour bedrooms, dining rooms, and salons where Charles and Letitzia Bonaparte raised their eight children. Period furnishings and antiques in Corsican and Empire styles are scattered about and pay tribute to the family’s bourgeoisie upbringing. Head downstairs to see the cellars and granite oil pressing mill acquired by Napoléon III in 1860, which depict the importance of rural industry for the Bonaparte’s income. Visit the trapdoor room and find the opening next to the door through which Napoléon allegedly escaped in 1799. The building itself changed hands multiple times through Bonaparte heirs until 1923, when it was donated to the state of France by Prince Victor, elder son of Prince Jérôme Napoleon. | Rue St-Charles | 04–95–21–43–89 | www.ajaccio-tourisme.com | €7 | Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–4:45; Apr.–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 10:30–12:30 and 1:15–6.

FAMILY | Marché Central.

For an authentic view of daily Corsican life, tour this wonderful open-air food market brimming with gastronomic delights. There is an array of local cheeses, charcuterie, breads, pastries, olives, condiments, and aromatic meats for sale. Traditional indulgences like chestnut-infused beignets can be savored in an atmosphere guaranteed to be lively and local. Bring your euros—cash is the preferred method of payment. | Square César Campinchi, Bd. du Roi Jérôme | www.ajaccio-tourisme.com | Tues.–Sun. 8–1.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Musée des Beaux Arts-Palais Fesch.

This internationally recognized museum houses one of the most important collections from the Napoleonic era; it’s undoubtedly one of the most significant displays in France of ancient Italian masterpieces spanning the 14th to 20th centuries. There are nearly 18,000 items, all part of an astounding inventory that belonged to Napoléon’s uncle, Cardinal Fesch. Thanks to his nephew’s military conquests, the cardinal was able to amass (steal, some would say) many celebrated Old Master paintings, the most famous of which are now in Paris’ Louvre. The museum’s beautiful vaulted corridors showcase 700 paintings, portraits, still lifes, and sculptures from the First and Second Empire from the French school. Don’t miss the new gallery with engravings and drawings depicting historic Corsica. The building itself, constructed by the cardinal as the Institute of Arts and Sciences, dates back to 1837. | 50–52 rue Cardinal Fesch | 04–95–21–48–17 | www.musee-fesch.com | €8 | Oct.–Apr., Mon., Wed., and Sat. 10–5, Thurs. and Fri. noon–5. May–Sept., Mon., Wed., and Sat. 10:30–6, Thurs., Fri., and Sun. noon–6.

Place Maréchal-Foch.

Surrounded by a row of stately palm trees, Place Maréchal-Foch is easily recognizable by its fountain of four Corsican granite lions encircling a commanding statue of Napoléon, the work of sculptor Jérôme Maglioli. Popular as a spot to people-watch on a sunny day, this triangle is surrounded by cafés and opens up to the Ajaccio port. | Pl. Marechal Foch.

WHERE TO EAT

20123.

FRENCH | The tables are always full at this popular establishment known for its traditional cuisine, fresh daily catches, and, in season, game specials such as civet de sanglier (wild boar stew), served in a bubbling earthenware casserole with cheese-infused polenta. The rustic interior has a starry sky above, antique lanterns, and stone fountain where guests pour their own water into ceramic jugs. In keeping with the familial style of service and food presentation, cutting boards with fresh-baked loaves of wheat bread are provided to start your copious meal. Three-course fixed menus are offered in two seatings at 7:30 and 9:30, and include an exquisite cheese platter with homemade fig confiture. | Average main: €35 | 2 rue Roi-de-Rome | 04–95–21–50–05 | www.20123.fr | Closed Mon. and Jan. 15–Feb. 15. No lunch June 15–Sept. 15.

FAMILY | Le Week End.

SEAFOOD | About 10 minutes from downtown Ajaccio is this eatery where white rattan furniture and blue tablecloths are overshadowed by a spectacular ocean view and fine seafood menu. Here you’ll find everything from marinated octopus and tuna spring rolls to rockfish soup and grilled red sea bream. Family-run since 1956, this restaurant flourishes with secret recipes handed down from generations. History can still be found in the fireplace lounge, where velvet chairs and family paintings date back to 1920. | Average main: €60 | Rte. des Iles Sanguinaires | 04–95–52–1–39 | www.leweekend-plage.com | Closed Wed. Oct.–Mar. No dinner Mon. and Tues. Oct.–Mar.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Kalliste.

B&B/INN | Near the port, this simple hotel’s central location is the main draw. Double pane windows to minimize street noise in the rooms, which have tile floors and exposed brick walls. The quietest rooms are #316, #317 and #318, but only #214 has a charming marble chimney. Kalliste also offers a decent breakfast. Pros: central location; onsite car rental company; air-conditioned rooms. Cons: few amenities; old-fashioned decor; no balconies or terraces. | Rooms from: €95 | 51 cours Napoleon, Ajaccio | 04–95–51–34–45 | www.hotel-kalliste-ajaccio.com | 45 rooms | Breakfast.

Hotel Napoléon.

HOTEL | A block off Cours Napoléon, this seven-story hotel with wooden shutters is quiet enough for a peaceful sleep, yet close enough to stroll to the city’s liveliest neighborhoods. Good luck opening your suitcase though—the rooms are extremely small, but have all the necessary amenities, including air-conditioning, flat-screen TVs, and free Wi-Fi access. The friendly service add a touch of warmth to the place. Pros: nice breakfast buffet; convenient location; reasonable rates. Cons: cramped rooms and breakfast area; no pool; decor needs updating. | Rooms from: €123 | 4 rue Lorenzo Vero, Ajaccio | 04–95–51–54–00 | www.hotel-napoleon-ajaccio.com | 62 rooms | Breakfast.

Hôtel San Carlu.

HOTEL | On the edge of the Old Town, this friendly hotel overlooking the ramparts and sea was once the home of Napoléon’s nanny. An ideal base for exploring Ajaccio, the hotel has comfortable rooms with simple modern décor. Rooms on the Golfe d’Ajaccio side get an abundance of morning sunshine streaming across the beds and into the bathtubs—the perfect way to greet the day on the Isle de la Beauté. Pros: convenient location; clean rooms; free Wi-Fi. Cons: no parking; some rooms are old-fashioned; ordinary breakfast buffet. | Rooms from: €175 | 8 bd. Danielle Casanova | 04–95–21–13–84 | www.hotel-sancarlu.com | 39 rooms | Closed mid-Dec.–early Feb. | Breakfast.

FAMILY | La Dolce Vita.

HOTEL | Spread out over whitewashed terraces at the edge of the Golfe d’Ajaccio, this hotel has a spectacular swimming pool that overlooks the sea. The restaurant ranks as one of the island’s better establishments for stylish interpretations of traditional Corsican dishes. Rooms are less exciting, although they’ve jazzed them up with some modern furnishings. Guests are obligated to purchase meal plans in July and August. Pros: splendid sea views; good amenities. Cons: rocky beach; pricey rooms. | Rooms from: €380 | Rte. des Iles Sanguinaires, 8 km (5 miles) from center of town | 04–95–52–42–42 | www.hotel-dolcevita.com | 32 rooms | Closed Nov.–Mar. | Some meals.

Palazzu u Domu.

B&B/INN | Steps away from the house where Napoléon was born, this lodging once served as the ancestral residence of Duke Charles-Andre Pozzo di Borgo of the notable Ajaccio family. The chic lobby is distinguished by a swank martini bar, and the modern rooms have leather furniture, flat-screen TVs, and Wi-Fi access. Rooms 112, 211, and 311 have small balconies overlooking a cobblestone alley. Splurge on the presidential suite, which boasts an ocean view. Although the hotel has a small patio restaurant open May to October, there is a room service menu and an exceptional breakfast buffet year-round. Pros: comfortable beds; central location; outdoor terrace. Cons: unreliable Internet connection; inconsistent service. | Rooms from: €189 | 17 rue Bonaparte, Ajaccio | 04–95–50–00–20 | www.palazzu-domu.com | 45 rooms, 1 suite | Open year-round | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Many of Ajaccio’s top nightspots are 4 km (2½ miles) north of town, in the Santa-Lina District along Route des Iles Sanguinaires.

L’Entracte.

A popular pit stop, L’Entreacte has a great location near the Ajaccio Casino. Nightly music brings out locals and newcomers alike. | Bd. Pascal Rossini | 04–95–50–40–60| | www.casino-ajaccio.com/club-lounge.

La Place.

A well-known boîte du nuit (nightclub), La Place draws both young clubbers and older locals looking for a good, loud time. Dance away the hours to techno and house music. | Pl. du Diamant | 06–18–86–74–30.

Le Privilège.

In a low-key part of Old Town, Le Privilège is a local gathering place featuring music and themed party nights. | 7 rue Eugène Macchini | 04–95–50–11–80.

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

Carnival d’Ajaccio.

Scheduled in early summer, the festive Carnival of Ajaccio is when townspeople in colorful disguises parade in the cité imperiale. | Av. Marechal Moncey Résidence Palmiers | 04–95–23–02–48.

La Madunnuccia (Feast of Our Lady of Mercy).

Started in 1656, La Madunnuccia is a true Ajaccian tradition spotlighting the Procession de la Madunnuccia (Procession of the Madonna). A large mass is held March 18 at the cathedral, followed by a citywide tour of the famous statue. | Cathedrale d’Ajaccio, Rue Forcioli Conti | 04–95–21–07–67 | www.ajaccio.fr.

FAMILY | Fêtes Napoléoniennes.

Held in August, the Fêtes Napoléoniennes is one of the island’s major festivals. It culminates with fireworks to celebrate the Little Corporal’s birthday on August 15. | www.visit-corsica.com/fr.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Boating and Sailing

FAMILY | Societé Nautique d’Ajaccio.

Perfect for children and passionate about sailing, the Nautical Society of Ajaccio founded in 1867 specializes in training young skippers. Adults are also welcome. | Fossés de la Citadelle, Port Tino Rossi | 04–95–21–40–43 | www.snajaccio.asso.fr | Mon.–Sat., 9–noon and 1:30–5:30.

Horseback Riding

FAMILY | A L’Eau Plongée.

One of the island’s most knowledgeable dive centers, A L’Eau Plongée offers lessons for all levels and leads exploration dives for individuals and groups. | Port Charles Ornano | 06–09–60–14–09 | www.aleauplongee.com.

Cappai Jet.

Spend a fun nautical day at Plage du Neptune where you can rent a Jet Ski for €70 for half an hour. For a cheaper alternative, stand-up paddleboards are available for €10 an hour. | Plage du Neptune, Rte. des Sanguinaires | 06–21–33–92–84 | www.cappai-jet.com.

Julien Jet.

This company rents Jet Skis, speedboats, and four-wheel-drive vehicles for hours of fun and adventure. | Plage de L’Isolella | Pietrosella | 04–95–25–78–24 | www.julienjet.com.

Nautique Plaisance.

Enjoy nautical fun in the heart of Ajaccio. Jet Ski rentals and tours of the coastline are this company’s specialty. Expect to pay €100 per hour. | La Citadelle, Port Tino Rossi | 06–03–26–94–59 | nautique-plaisance-corse.com.

SHOPPING

Art’Insula.

A large selection of leather, pottery and beautiful jewelry crafted by local artisans is available at Art’Insula. For the gourmand, there’s an assortment of honeys, vinegars, and liqueurs. | 57 rue Fesch | 04–95–50–54–67 | www.artisula.com.

Casa Napoléon.

This well-stocked boutique sells organic jams, olives oils, wines, and traditional dishes. It belongs to Charles Antona, who’s been in business for more than 30 years. | 3 rue Fesch | 04–95–21–47–88 | www.charlesantona.com.

Christel Torres-Nicolas Atelier.

Close to the port, this special studio is owned by a talented mosaic artist who showcases her colorful creations in mirrors, tables, and objets d’art. | 15 bis, av. Bévérini Vico | 06–15–76–05–51 | www.ctnmosaique.com.

Les Pierres de Corse.

The “Oeil de Sainte Lucie,” the small plate that closes a mollusk’s shell, can be found here in pendants, rings, earrings, and bracelets. Natural Corsican stones are also showcased at this friendly corner boutique. | 23 rue Fesch | 04–95–10–45–57 | www.lespierresdecorse.com.

Librairie la Marge.

Much more than just a bookstore, this is a hub of Corsican literature. You can also buy music and attend poetry readings here. | 4 rue Emmanuelle-Arène | 04–95–51–23–67.

Paese Nostru.

Corsican crafts of all kinds are for sale in this tiny souvenir shop. Of special interest is the cutlery, hand-forged with wrought-iron and wooden handles. | 29 rue Fesch | 04–95–51–05–07 | Weekdays 10–7, Sat. 9–6.

U Stazzu.

Known for its high-quality cheese and wine, this award-winning shop offers some of the best hams on the island, including the waist-busting Coppa and Lonzu. Tasting is encouraged. | 1 rue Bonaparte | 04–95–51–10–80 | www.ustazzu.com.

U Tilaghju.

Near the cathedral, this art studio and boutique holds an impressive collection of hand-painted silk, ceramics, paintings, and woodwork. | 12 rue Forcioli Conti | 04–95–51–21–40.

PORTICCIO

17 km (11 miles) south of Ajaccio on N196.

Between the sea and mountain, this upscale resort town a short scenic drive from the capital benefits from unforgettable views and a palette of nautical activities perfect for the clear, calm waters of the Ajaccio Gulf. It’s an oasis, dotted with a number of luxury resorts, notable for its beaches, verdant countryside, and ancient Tower of Capitello.

Getting Here

Découvertes Naturelle and other companies shuttle passengers between Ajaccio and Porticcio throughout the summer season (one-way €5, round-trip €8). Buses leave Ajaccio’s Gare Routière and stop at Porticcio Mare e Monti Sud and Mare a Mare Centre (€3 one-way). The 19-km (11-mile) drive by taxi (€28) or car takes approximately 30 to 40 minutes from downtown Ajaccio.

FAMILY | Découvertes Naturelle.

Discover the stunning landscape with boat excursions from Ajaccio, Porticcio, and Propriano offered by Découvertes Naturelle. The company also runs shuttles between Ajaccio and Porticcio costing €5 each way. | 06–34–02–76–44 | www.promenades-en-mer.org.

Visitor Information

Office de Tourisme Porticcio. | Les Echoppes | 04–95–25–01–00 | www.porticcio-corsica.com.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Acqua Cyrné Gliss.

Kids love Aqua Cyrné Gliss, a water park with slides and swimming pools. | Rte. Departementale 55 | 04–95–25–17–48 | www.acqua-gliss.com | €22 | Mid-June–early Sept., daily 10:30–7.

Institut de Thalassothérapie.

Part of the Sofitel Golfe d’Ajaccio Thalassa Sea & Spa Hotel, the Institut de Thalassothérapie (Institute of Thalassotherapy) is a 30-minute drive from the capital. Notable for its seawater cures, hydrotherapies, and restorative massages and scrubs, the institute is the perfect place to unwind after a long day of sightseeing and sunbathing. | Sofitel Golfe d’Ajaccio Thalassa Sea & Spa Hotel, Domaine de la Pointe | 04–95–29–40–00 | www.accorthalassa.com.

WHERE TO STAY

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Le Maquis.

HOTEL | One of the island’s finest hôtels de charme, this graceful ivy-covered Genoese-style retreat rambles down through terraced gardens to a private beach overlooking the Golfe d’Ajaccio. Renovated in 2014, the best rooms have direct views of the sea from private balconies. At the candlelit restaurant L’Arbousier, a blend of traditional and nouvelle cuisine is served in the cozy interior room with ancient beams recycled from what was once the Ajaccio prison. On warm days you can dine on the terrace with panoramic views. Try fish tartare, scrambled eggs with truffles, or lobster specialties. Supreme comfort, taste, service, and discretion are guaranteed at this exquisite hideaway 19 km (11 miles) south of Ajaccio. Pros: excellent restaurant; exceptional service; indoor pool. Cons: loud plane noise from airport; no gym or spa; outdoor pool isn’t heated. | Rooms from: €500 | Bd. Marie-Jeanne Bozzi | 04–95–25–05–55 | www.lemaquis.com | 19 rooms, 6 apartments | Closed Jan.–Mar. | No meals.

Sofitel Golfe d’Ajaccio Thalassa Sea & Spa Hotel.

HOTEL | This well-regarded hotel benefits from its near-perfect location on the water and its proximity to the capital. Travelers seeking pampering will get their fix here at the Thalassotherapy Institute, which offers a variety of wellness treatments. A private dock leads to a small beach where you can kayak, windsurf, snorkel, or dive. Well-appointed rooms with contemporary design have ocean views, step-out balconies, and spacious bathrooms. The outdoor saltwater pool and expansive terraces are popular in summer. Expect high prices but consistent quality. Pros: luxurious spa; water sports at the hotel jetty; attentive service. Cons: small, rocky beach; expensive Internet access; spa closes midday. | Rooms from: €350 | Sofitel Golfe d’Ajaccio Thalassa Sea & Spa Hotel, Domaine de la Pointe | 04–95–29–40– 40 | www.accorhotels.com | 98 rooms | Closed Jan. and Feb. | No meals.

FILITOSA

Getting Here

Located in the Vallée du Taravo about 17 km (10 miles) north of Propriano, Filitosa is best accessed by car or taxi (€30). No regular public bus service is available.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Filitosa.

Corsica’s largest grouping of megalithic menhir statues, Felitosa is reached via a stroll down a tree-lined path. You’ll discover life-size stone figures of ancient warriors that rise up mysteriously from the undulating terrain, many with human faces whose features have been flattened by erosion. A small museum houses archaeological finds, including the menhir known as Scalsa Murta, whose delicately carved spine and rib cage are surprisingly contemporary for a work dating from some 5,000 years ago. There’s a great English-language guidebook, and much of the signage is in English. After your tour, enjoy a beverage at the small brasserie. | Off Rte. 196 | Petreto-Bicchisano | 04–95–74–00–91 | www.filitosa.fr | €5 | June–Oct., daily 8–7.

SARTÈNE

27 km (16 miles) southeast of Filitosa on N196.

Described as the “most Corsican of all Corsican towns” by French novelist Prosper Mérimée, Sartène, founded in the 16th century, has survived pirate raids and bloody feuding among the town’s families. The word “vendetta” is believed to have originated here as the result of a 19th-century family feud so serious that French troops were brought in to serve as a peacekeeping buffer force. Centuries of fighting have left the town with a somewhat eerie and menacing atmosphere. Perhaps adding to this is the annual Good Friday catenacciu (enchaining) procession, in which an anonymous penitent, dragging ankle chains, lugs a heavy cross through the village streets.

Surrounded by ancient ramparts, Vieux Sartène (Old Sartène) begins at place de la Libération, the main square. To one side is the Hôtel de Ville (town hall), in the former Genoese governor’s palace. Slip into the Middle Ages through the tunnel under the Town Hall to place du Maggiu and the ancient Santa Anna quarter, a warren of narrow, cobbled streets lined with granite houses. Scarcely 100 yards from the Hôtel de Ville, down a steep and winding street, is a 12th-century tour de guet (watchtower). Sartène is a key link to Corsica’s prehistory, thanks to its proximity to Pianu de Levie’s dolmens and megalithic statues.

Getting Here

Sartène is accessible by Eurocourse buses from Ajaccio (€11.50, two hours, two daily) and Bonifacio (€10.50, two hours, two daily).

Visitor Information

Office de Tourisme Sartène. | 14 cours Soeur Amélie | 04–95–77–15–40 | www.lacorsedesorigines.com | Sept.–June, weekdays 9–noon and 2:30–6, Sat. 9–noon; July and Aug., Mon.–Sat. 8–8, Sun. 9–1 and 4–8.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Musée Départemental de Préhistoire Corse et d’Archéologie (Regional Museum of Prehistoric Corsica and Archaeology).

Some of the island’s best prehistoric relics are found in this museum, which once served as the town’s prison. There are more than 250,000 items from Neolithic times to the 15th century. The galleries catalog the development of crafts, trade, and culture of ancient Corsica. | Rue Croce | 04–95–77–01–09 | www.prehistoire-corse.org | €4 | June–Sept., daily 10–6; Oct.–May, weekdays 9–noon and 1:30–5.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

A Cheval en Corse.

One of the best ways to experience Corsica is on horseback. Equestrian tours with A Cheval en Corse can be customized for every riding level. Licensed guides lead the way through the island’s most rugged terrain. | 57 Forconcello | Granace | 04–95–76–08– 02 | www.randonnee-equestre-corse.com.

FAMILY | A Staffa Poney Club.

Trot or gallop through the beautiful maquis for a fantastic family adventure. Two- to three-hour rides are €40 to €50. | Rte. de Palombaggia | Porto Vecchio | 06–16–56–73– 60 | www.astaffa.fr.

STE-LUCIE-DE-TALLANO

85 km (53 miles) southeast of Porticcio.

Getting Here

The dangerous descents on winding roads are best driven by day. Bus lines connecting Ajaccio and Bavella make a stop in Ste-Lucie-de-Tallano (€11.50; seasonal timetables) between the villages of Sartène and Levie.

EXPLORING

OFF THE BEATEN PATH: Five kilometers (3 miles) east of Ste-Lucie-de-Tallano on the Zonza road (D268), the 3½-km (2-mile) walk up to the Pianu de Levie (Levie Plateau) reveals one of Corsica’s best archaeological sites. The Castellu de Cucurruzzu is a Torréen fortress, 3,500 years old. At Cucurruzzu, 20 minutes farther, is another Torréen fortress, the Castellu de Capula.

Musée Departemental de l’Alta Rocca. The Museum of Archaeology in Levie is in the mountainous region of L’Alta Rocca, a treasure trove of history dating back more than 10,000 years. Head to the museum to see ancient items, including skeletal fragments of the oldest Corsican woman. Bronze artifacts bear witness to the developing knowledge of prehistoric Corsican man. | Av. Lieutenant de Peretti | Levie | 04–95–78–00–78 | www.cg-corsedusud.fr/patrimoine-et-culture/musee-de-levie | €4 | June–Sept., daily 10–5; Oct.–May, daily 10–6.

BONIFACIO

70 km (43 miles) south of Ste-Luice-de-Tallano.

The ancient fortress town of Bonifacio occupies a spectacular cliff-top aerie above a harbor carved from limestone cliffs. It’s 13 km (8 miles) from Sardinia, and the local speech is heavily influenced by the accent and idiom of that nearby Italian island. Established in the 12th century as Genoa’s first Corsican stronghold, Bonifacio remained Genoese through centuries of battles and sieges. As you wander the narrow streets of the Haute Ville (Upper Village), inside the walls of the citadel, think of Homer’s Odyssey. It’s here, in the harbor, that scholars place the catastrophic encounter (Chapter X) between Ulysses’s fleet and the Laestrygonians, who hurled lethal boulders down from the cliffs.

Getting Here

Bonifacio is approximately 20 km (12 miles) south of Figari airport (Figari-Sud Corse), with transfers by taxi (€45) or seasonal shuttle bus (€10). In summer months, expect congested streets in and around Bonifacio, delaying journey times.

Visitor Information

Office Municipal de Tourisme Bonifacio. | 2 rue Fred Scamaroni | 04–95–73–11–88 | www.bonifacio.com.

Office Municipal de Tourisme Porto Vecchio. | Rue Général Leclerc | Porto Vecchio | 04–95–70–09–58 | www.ot-portovecchio.com.

EXPLORING

Bastion de l’Étendard (Bastion of the Standard).

From Place d’Armes at the city gate, enter the 13th-century Bastion de l’Étendard, where you can still see the system of weights and levers used to raise the drawbridge. The former garrison, the last remaining part of the original fortress, houses life-size dioramas of the bombardment of the bastion in the 16th-century Franco-Turkish war. Climb the steep steps for an incredible panoramic view of the white-chalk cliffs along the coastline. | Av. Charles de Gaulle | €2.50 | Mid-June–mid-Sept., weekdays 9–8, weekends 10–7.

FAMILY | Dragon Grottoes.

Boats from Bonifacio bring you to see the blue dragon grottoes, a spectacular geological site. Tours typically venture to Venus’s Bath, sea caves at Sdragonatto and St-Angoine, and the Lavezzi Islands. Boats set out every 15 minutes during July and August. | www.bonifacio.fr.

Eglise Sainte Marie Majeure.

The oldest structure in the city, the 12th-century church with buttresses attaching it to surrounding houses is located in the center of the citadel’s maze of cobblestone streets. Inside the Pisan-Genoese church, look for the 3rd-century white-marble Roman sarcophagus and the Renaissance baptismal font. Walk around the back to see the loggia built above a huge cistern that stored water for use in times of siege. The 14th-century bell tower rises 82 feet. | Rue du Saint Sacrement | 04–95–73–11–88 | www.bonifacio.fr.

WHERE TO EAT

FAMILY | Kissing Pigs.

BISTRO | For traditional Corsican meat, cheese, and wine, head to this cozy eatery where aged salamis hang from the rafters. Adding rustic authenticity are stone-walls, terra-cotta tile floors, and illuminated alcoves holding books, bottles, and baskets. Start with the selection of farmers’ cheese served with chestnut bread, fig jam, dried fruit, and purple grapes. The summer menu features gourmet salads like La Basse Cour (duck, bacon, and apples on a bed of greens) and open-faced sandwiches like the Pertusato tartine (foie gras with muscat-marinated macerated figs). Organic pork is the specialty here, since it comes directly from the owner’s pig farm. Save room for the homemade ice cream that comes in flavors of fig, myrte, and chestnut. | Average main: €30 | 5, quai Banda del Ferro | 04–95–73–56–09 | Reservations essential.

Les 4 Vents.

SEAFOOD | This friendly restaurant near the boat terminal is popular with the yachting crowd. In winter the kitchen serves up such Alsatian specialties as sauerkraut and sausages. In summer the focus is on grilled fish and meats, as well as typical Corsican dishes. Try a perfectly prepared risotto, bouillabaisse, or pasta with succulent langouste (lobster). Fresh ingredients, upscale presentation, and friendly service are consistent draws. | Average main: €75 | 29 quai Banda di Ferro | 04–95–73–07–50 | Reservations essential | Closed mid- to late Nov. and Tues. in Nov.–June.

Les Jardins de la Paresse.

ECLECTIC | Shaded by tangerine trees and ivy trellises, tables at this eatery are spread among three terraces that overlook the harbor. With its casual atmosphere and incredible setting, it’s no wonder this restaurant has been named “The Lazy Garden.” The mixed grill with shrimp and swordfish is delicious, as is the paella with chicken and seafood. | Average main: €20 | Porte Genoise | Porto Vecchio | 04–95–70–38–26 | Closed Oct.–Apr.

FAMILY | Le Voilier.

SEAFOOD | Chef Jean Paul Bartoli and his wife make this year-round restaurant at the port a popular dining spot with their warm smiles and attentive service. The couple serves carefully selected and prepared seafood, along with fine Corsican sausage and traditional cuisine from soup to fiadone (cheesecake). Try the affordably priced set menus. | Average main: €30 | 81 quai Comparetti | 04–95–73–07–06 | www.restaurant-levoilier-bonifacio.com | Closed Wed. No dinner Sun.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Grand Hotel de Cala Rossa.

HOTEL | Hidden within a gated community, this secluded hotel has an extraordinary garden fringed by a white-sand beach. Leading to the water is a private dock where you can book boating excursions. Natural materials and bamboo flooring give the rooms an organic feel. Relax at the spa or head to the oceanfront tree house for a sunset massage. Meals, prepared by renowned chef Georges Billion, can be served in the restaurant, garden terrace, or on the beach. Book early to stay at this incredibly popular ultra-luxe property. Pros: upscale bath products; excellent amenities; superb restaurant. Cons: extremely expensive; dress code enforced in common areas; small rooms. | Rooms from: €530 | Rte. de Cala Rossa | Porto Vecchio | 04–95–71–61–51 | www.hotel-calarossa.com | 42 rooms | Closed Jan.–Mar. | Multiple meal plans.

Hôtel le Genovese.

B&B/INN | This intimate hotel de charme is built into the ramparts of the upper town’s citadel, with stone elements reflecting the surrounding architecture. Neutral fabrics and simple furnishings keep the rooms light and bright. Upstairs rooms have superb views over the cliffs. Head to the outdoor pool surrounded by its own rampart—it’s the perfect place to take in the Corsican sun. Pros: stylish hotel; excellent seafood; central location. Cons: expensive breakfast; curt staff. | Rooms from: €250 | Rue Prosper Mérimée, Haute Ville | 04–95–73–12–34 | www.hotel-genovese.com | 15 rooms | Some meals.

Le Roi Theodore.

HOTEL | Two miles from old town, this pricey hotel is creatively constructed with each room facing inward toward a large courtyard and infinity pool. Leading to the spa is a pebble-strewn path and fragrant rose garden. Rooms are showing their age, but are spacious and bright. Cocktails are served in a fireside lounge next to a cozy library. The restaurant, Le Regina, has outstanding seafood. Pros: excellent breakfast; beautiful pool area; free Wi-Fi access. Cons: outside the city; thin walls; needs refurbishment. | Rooms from: €275 | Av. de Bastia BP9, Porto Vecchio | 04–95–70–14–94 | www.roitheodore.fr | 47 rooms, 6 suites | Closed Jan.–Mar. | Multiple meal plans.

Marina di Cavu.

HOTEL | Four miles from Bonifacio, this charming property is surrounded by ocean vistas, limestone cliffs, and enormous boulders incorporated into the interior design. The restaurant, lobby, and several of the rooms have these massive rocks jutting from the walls and floors. Seven of the rustic rooms, decorated with white bedding and hues of turquoise, have sea views and spacious balconies. The restaurant has a small menu of fish, meat, and risotto. Pros: gorgeous views; colorful rooms; lovely heated pool. Cons: remote location; exorbitant room rates; unreliable service. | Rooms from: €500 | Route de Calalonga | 04–95–73–14–13 | www.marinadicavu.com | 9 rooms | Some meals.

NIGHTLIFE

B’52.

For an evening of clubbing, head to this popular nightspot filled with the rich but not necessarily famous during summer. During off-season, the club is a weekend haunt for young locals who enjoy DJ theme nights. | Quai Comparetti | 04–95–73–57–52.

Lollapalooza.

Open year-round, Lollapalooza rages until sunrise with various styles of music. | 25 quai Comparetti | 04–95–73–04–54.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Kiteboarding

Corsica Kiteboarding.

This well-known école de kite offers lessons and equipment rental for beginners to advanced levels. Experienced trainers choose the best and safest spots according to weather conditions, including the long beaches of Balistra and Piantarella. | Chemin de Finocchio | 06–75–01–50–04 | www.corsica-kiteboarding.com.

Water Sports

Club Atoll.

This PADI-endorsed club offers a variety of water sports for all skill levels, along with equipment rental and training. | Rte. de Porto-Vecchio, Cavallo Morto | 04–95–73–02–83.

FAMILY | Club Bonif’Kayak.

Stand-up paddling on large surfboards is popular for both kids and adults. The club is on a stretch of beach facing Ile de Piana. | Plage de Piantarella | 06–27–11–30–73 | www.bonifacio-kayak.com.

FAMILY | Club de Voile de Bonifacio.

On one of the most beautiful spots of Corsica, Club de Voile offers lessons and equipment rental for catamaran sailing, kayaking, and windsurfing. Reserve in advance, especially during high season. | Plage de Piantarella | 06–83–17–37–17 | www.ecole-windsurf.com.

EN ROUTE: Driving north from Bonifacio, head east off the N198 on a long, winding road to reach Palombaggia, the most famous beach on Corsica. Considered one the best beaches in Europe for its shallow crystal waters and umbrella pine backdrop, this pristine two-mile stretch of white sand rivals even the Caribbean as the perfect family vacation spot. Diversified terrain and powdery beaches continue to extend nearly 10 miles up to Porto Vecchio, one of the richest regions in Corsica that attracts the world’s most famous jetsetters and their glimmering yachts each summer. Considered the island’s “St-Tropez,” it boasts a large marina and historical old town with cobblestone streets lined with cafés, restaurants and boutiques. On Sunday mornings, merchants gather at the center’s La Place du Monument where they sell local produce, meat and cheese. As the island’s main exporter of cork and tangerines, Porto Vecchio backs onto Corsica’s largest cork-oak forest, L’Ospédale. An excursion across the forest on D368, climbing 49 km (30 miles) to the mountain pass of Col de Bavella, is one of the island’s best tours. Take the flat, straight road (N198) up the east coast only if you have a boat leaving Bastia in two hours.

COL DE BAVELLA

29 km (18 miles) southwest of Ste-Lucie-de-Tallano.

The granite peaks known as the Aiguilles de Bavella (Needles of Bavella) tower some 6,562 feet overhead as you reach the Col de Bavella (Bavella Pass). Hiking trails are well marked. The narrow but mostly well-paved roadway over the pass will take you back to the coast along the Solenzara River.

Getting Here

The succession of curvy roads and dangerously steep descents require heightened attention and lower speeds. Driving during the daytime is highly recommended.

ALÉRIA

32 km (20 miles) north of Solenzara on N198, 48 km (29 miles) southeast of Corte.

Just before the village of Aléria are the ruins of the Roman city of the same name.

Getting Here

Aléria is best accessed by car or local minibus. Depart Corte on the N200 for 46 km (28 miles). At Cateraggio, take a right onto the N198 for another 2 km (1 mile) until you reach Aléria.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Fort de Matra.

On a pine-studded plateau is the carefully restored 14th-century Fort de Matra, an imposing double cube-shape stone structure, which houses the Musée Jérôme Carcopino—the name of the Corsican historian who is responsible for the excavations at the ancient site of Aleria. On display are pottery and tools found on the site, as well as Etruscan, Greek, and Roman artifacts dating from as far back as 500 BC. The fort itself was built by the Genoese to house calvary as they surveyed their passage on the plains to Corte. It repelled an attack during the Corsican revolt, welcoming only the king and the Matra family once fighting subsided. | Off rte. Nationale 198 | 04–95–57–00–92 | www.officiel-galeries-musees.com/chateaux/fort-de-matra | €4 | May–Sept., daily 8–noon and 2–7; Oct.–May, Mon.–Sat. 8–noon and 2–5.

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Corte | Morosaglia | La Porta | Piedicroce | Asco and Haut-Asco | Ota | Porto and Calanches di Piana (Calanques de Piana) | Calvi | Calenzana | Cateri | Pigna | L’Ile Rousse | Lama | Murato | St-Florent | Patrimonio | Nonza | Centuri | Erbalunga | San Martino di Lota | Bastia

Haute Corse (Upper Corsica) is the northeastern end of the island and is, indeed, higher in mean altitude than Corse du Sud, topped by the 8,876-foot Monte Cinto. Most Corsica enthusiasts agree that Haute Corse is the island’s finest trove of highland forests, remote villages, hidden cultural gems, vineyards, beaches, and alpine lakes and streams. In the center of Haute Corse is the city of Corte, Corsica’s historic heart. To the east is the forested region of La Castagniccia, named for its châtaigniers (chestnut trees), one of Corsica’s treasures, especially in the fall, when fallen leaves and chestnuts blanket the ground. The forest’s tiny roadways go through villages with stunning Baroque churches and houses still roofed in traditional blue-gray slate.

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CORTE

83 km (51 miles) northeast of Ajaccio.

Set amid spectacular cliffs and gorges at the confluence of the Tavignano, Restonica, and Orta rivers, Corte is the spiritual heart and soul of Corsica. Capital of Pasquale Paoli’s government from 1755 to 1769, it was also where Paoli established the Corsican University in 1765. Closed by the victorious French in 1769, the university, always a symbol of Corsican identity, was reopened in 1981. To reach the upper town and the 15th-century château overlooking the rivers, walk up the cobblestone ramp from place Pasquale-Paoli. Stop in lovely place Gaffori at one of the cafés or restaurants. Note the bullet-pocked house where the Corsican hero Gian Pietro Gaffori and his wife, Faustina, held off the Genoese in 1750.

Getting Here

Public transport is quite poor in Corsica, so to access stunning views of interior Corsica, your best bet is to rent a car or take a local minibus. The shortest distance to Corte is from Bastia. Count on at least an hour to negotiate the 68-km (42-mile) drive. From Ajaccio, a distance of 80 km (49 miles) will take at least 90 minutes.

The Corsican train called the trinighellu is infrequent and slow, and the journey from Ajaccio to Corte takes about one hour and 40 minutes; from Bastia, it’s 90 minutes. A main bus line connects Bastia to Corte (90 minutes).

Visitor Information

Office de Tourisme Corte. | La Citadelle | 04–95–46–26–70 | www.corte-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Citadelle.

One of six island fortifications of its kind, the Citadelle, a Vauban-style fortress (1769–78), is built around the original 15th-century bastion at the highest point of the cliff, with the river below. In 1769, after the defeat of Ponte Novu, Corsica came under French rule. Count de Vaux, who held Corte, undertook the construction of the citadel’s second reconstruction to strengthen the defense system of the city. The building contains the Musée de la Corse (Corsica Museum), dedicated to the island’s history and ethnography. | Rue de Donjon | 04–95–45–25–45 | www.musee-corse.com | €5.30 | Nov.–Apr., Tues.–Sat. 10–7; May–Oct., daily 10–8.

FAMILY | Gorges de la Restonica (Restonica Gorges).

Put on your hiking boots—the Gorges de la Restonica make a spectacular day tour. At the top of the Restonica Valley, leave your car in the parking area. A two-hour climb will take you to Lac de Mélo, a trout-filled mountain lake 6,528 feet above sea level. Another hour up is the usually snow-bordered Lac de Capitello. Information on trails is available from the Parc Naturel Régional. Light meals are served in the stone shepherds’ huts at the Bergeries de Grotelle. | Off D623 | 08–99–71–02–20 | www.parc-corse.org.

La Scala di Santa Regina.

The Stairway of the Holy Queen is one of Corsica’s most spectacular roads—one of the most difficult to navigate, especially in winter. About 20 km (12 miles) northwest of Corte, it traces the twisty path of the Golo River, which has carved its way through layers of red granite, forming dramatic gorges and waterfalls. Follow the road to the Col de Verghio (Verghio Pass) for superb views of Tafunatu, the legendary perforated mountain, and Monte Cinto. On the way up you’ll pass through the Valdo Niello Forest, Corsica’s most important woodlands, filled with pines and beeches. As you descend from the Verghio Pass through the Forêt d’Aitone (Aitone Forest), note how well manicured it is—the pigs, goats, and sheep running rampant through the tall Laricio pines keep it this way. As you pass the village of Evisa, with its orange roofs, look across the impressive Gorges de Spelunca (Spelunca Gorge) to see the hill village of Ota. A small road on the right will take you across the gorge, where there’s an ancient Genoese-built bridge. | D84.

Palais National (National Palace).

The Palais National, just outside the citadel and above place Gaffori, is the ancient residence of Genoa’s representatives in Corsica and was the seat of the Corsican parliament from 1755 to 1769 where Paoli set up his government for independent Corsica. | Pl. du Poilu | www.napoleon.org | Weekdays 2–6.

FAMILY | Quartier de Chiostra.

Leave the Haute Ville and go through the tiny alleys of the Quartier de Chiostra. Follow the cobblestone path (as you look down) to the right from the Belvédère, bearing right and across at the Chapelle St-Théophile. Coming into the tiny square on your left, don’t miss the open stone staircase on the opposite wall, or the prehistoric fertility goddess carved into the wall to the left. Farther downhill you will rejoin the ramp leading into place Pasquale-Paoli. | Haute Ville | www.visit-corsica.com.

WHERE TO EAT

L’Annexe.

ITALIAN | This eatery’s modern decor, ambient music, and young staff dressed in jeans and black T-shirts make it a hip spot. Funky artwork covers the walls, and chilled wine bottles come in fluorescent bags rather than champagne buckets. Popular with the locals are the brick-oven pizzas, grilled hamburgers, and gourmet salads. For something more traditional, try the meat and cheese platter of prosciutto, Brie, smoked salmon, roasted peppers, and fig jam before moving on to the magret de canard. | Average main: €25 | Rampe Sainte Croix | 04–94–67–14–26 | www.restaurant-lannexe.fr | Closed Sun.

Le 24.

MODERN FRENCH | Rough-hewn archways, stone walls, and atmospheric lighting give this chic restaurant a cavernous feel. The chalkboard-menu, brought to each table, features shrimp tempura, seafood pasta, and sautéed dorado, among other favorites. Grilled to perfection is the filet mignon, topped with foie gras and served with a baked potato and artichoke. Portions are large, and the presentation is extraordinary. Definitely try one of the decadent desserts like the chocolate soufflé or homemade sorbet. | Average main: €50 | 24 cours Paoli | 04–95–46–02–90 | www.restaurant-le24.fr.

FAMILY | Le Nicoli.

FRENCH | The mouthwatering aroma of rotisserie chicken wafting from the open kitchen seals the deal for most newcomers, but there are plenty of other options like veal tournedos with potatoes, mushroom risotto, and salmon tartar served with scallops and pistachio oil. The restaurant is extremely modern, down to the stone plates. In summer, ask for a table on the terrace and nibble tapas to your heart’s—and stomach’s—content. Try the affordable Corsican menu for only €19.50, including appetizer, main course, and dessert. | Average main: €40 | 4 av. Jean Nicoli | 04–95–33–27–17 | lenicoli-corte.fr | Closed Sun. Oct.–Mar.

WHERE TO STAY

Duc de Padoue Hotel.

B&B/INN | Named for the faithful general in Napoléon’s army, this 19th-century hotel is on the town’s quietest square. There’s a cozy lounge where breakfast is served by the fireplace. Hardwood floors, granite countertops, and snowy duvets give the rooms are tasteful feel. Plasma TVs are among the modern amenities. Mountain views and balconies are available in rooms #208 and #209. Pros: quiet location; helpful staff; clean rooms. Cons: no parking; not all rooms have views; no amenities. | Rooms from: €118 | 2 pl. Padoue, Corte | 04–95–46–01–37 | www.ducdepadoue.com | 11 rooms | Closed weekends Nov.–Apr. | Breakfast.

Hôtel Dominique Colonna.

B&B/INN | This modern hotel is full of delightful surprises, including sliding doors leading directly out to breakfast nooks beside a stream. At night you can fall asleep to the sound of the water tumbling over the gorge. Owner Dominique “Dumé” Colonna, one of France’s (and certainly Corsica’s) greatest soccer stars, drops by from time to time. The nearby Auberge de la Restonica serves fine Corsican fare. Pros: incredible breakfast; enchanting location; gracious staff. Cons: hard mattresses; no shade at the pool; a bit outside town. | Rooms from: €230 | D623 | 04–95–45–25–65 | www.dominique-colonna.com | 29 rooms and suites | Closed Nov. 5–Mar. 14 | Some meals.

Hotel du Nord.

B&B/INN | On the main street through Corte, the Hotel du Nord is perfect for budget-conscious travelers. The oldest hotel in Corte, the marble stairs still remain from the original 1833 building. Hardwood floors make the place rather charming, as do the common areas with filled with books. Breakfast is served in the neighboring bar, and packed lunches are available for those who hike to the nearby valleys. Pros: bilingual staff; good value; free Wi-Fi access. Cons: small bathrooms; remote location; noisy at night. | Rooms from: €109 | 23 Cours Paoli | 04–95–46–00–68 | www.hoteldunord-corte.com | 16 rooms | Breakfast.

MOROSAGLIA

14 km (9 miles) southeast of Ponte Leccia, 9 km (5 miles) east of La Porta.

This village that has preserved its authenticity with original schiste et lauzes (shale and slate) houses and religious edifices such as the ancient Romanesque parish of Rustinu en Castagniccia.

Getting Here

From Bastia, follow N193 for 9 km (6 miles) in the direction of Biguglia. At the roundabout, take the second exit, continuing on N193 for another 6 km (4 miles) towards the direction of Ajaccio-Calvi-Bonifacio-Poretta. After crossing Crocetta, follow N193 towards Ajaccio-Calvi-Bonifacio-Casamozza. Once you’ve crossed Casamozza, follow N193 for 20 km (13 miles) in the direction Ajaccio-Corte-Calvia-Ponte Leccia-Barchetta. Continue until D615 direction Valle-di-Rostino for 7 km (5 miles). Follow D15 for 2 km (1 mile). Take a left onto D71 for 3 km (2 miles) to reach Morosaglia.

EXPLORING

Musée Départemental Pascal Paoli (Pasquale Paoli Museum).

Morosaglia is the birthplace of Pasquale Paoli, Corsica’s most celebrated national hero and author of the first republican constitution, drafted for Corsica in 1755 (with reverberations extending to the founding fathers of the United States). Letters, portraits, and memorabilia from Paoli’s life are on display at this well-regarded museum. | Hameau de Stretta | 04–95–61–04–97 | www.corse.fr/musees-corse/le-musee-departemental-pascal-paoli-a-morosaglia_a10.html | €2 | Mar.–Nov., daily 9–noon and 2:30–7:30; Dec.–Feb., daily 1–5.

LA PORTA

9 km (5 miles) west of Morosaglia, 14½ km (9 miles) north of Piedicroce on D515.

As the name of the village suggests, La Porta (the Door) is an entranceway to La Castagniccia. The St-Jean-Baptiste church here is widely accepted as the crowning glory of Corsican baroque art. The bright ocher facade and the five-story bell tower are feasts for the eyes, as are the paintings inside. Look for the Martyrdom of St. Eulalie of Barcelona (1848), by Louis Destouches (1819–81), just inside on the left.

Getting Here

From Morosaglia, take D405 direct to La Porta. The speed limit is 50 kph (31 mph) due to steep descents.

PIEDICROCE

14 km (9 miles) south of La Porta on D515, 66 km (40 miles) south of Bastia.

Piedicroce’s panoramic view of La Castagniccia is superb. Be sure to stop in to visit the vividly painted baroque church of St-Pierre-et-St-Paul, one of the finest of its type in the area. The nearby mineral springs of Orezza are reputed to have miraculous powers. The Fium Alto, running along the road that goes northeast to Folelli, is one of Corsica’s best trout streams.

Getting Here

The drive takes 20–25 minutes from La Porta. By car, follow D515 for 8 km (5 miles). Take a left onto D71, crossing Campana after 3 km (2 miles). Continue on D71 until you reach Piedicroce.

Visitor Information

Piedicroce–Castagniccia.

| Syndicat D’Initiative Intercommunal de la Castagniccia, Maison des Entreprises | 04–95–35–82–54 | www.castagniccia.fr.

WHERE TO STAY

Le Refuge.

B&B/INN | You’ll get a night’s sleep in these small but cozy quarters overlooking the Castagniccia and the valley of the Fium Alto. Rooms 11 and 12 have the best views. Affordable prices for room and food balanced with a spectacular country setting make this inn a good value. Pros: peaceful rural setting; warm, friendly service; inexpensive room rates. Cons: isolated locale; no major facilities; no Internet. | Rooms from: €70 | Haut Village | 04–95–35–82–65 | www.hotel-le-refuge.fr | 20 rooms | Closed Nov.–Easter | Multiple meal plans.

ASCO AND HAUT-ASCO

22 km (13 miles) west of Ponte Leccia: 2 km (1 miles) north of Ponte Leccia, D147 turns off N197 toward the village of Asco, 16 km (10 miles) away.

Studded with beehives, the Asco Valley is a honey and cheese haven. The Genoese bridge below Asco is a perfect spot for a swim in the river. Above Asco the granite gorge becomes a cool pine forest for hiking. Follow the road for another 12 km (7 miles) past the village, ending at the top against a wall of mountains. The Asco Valley runs west to an awe-inspiring barrier of mountains crowned by Monte Cinto, the highest point in Corsica at an elevation of 2,700 meters (8,800 feet). As you travel up the valley, the maquis-covered slopes give way to a sheer granite gorge hung with sweet-smelling juniper. Thirteen kilometers (8 miles) above is Haut Asco, starting point for the eight- to nine-hour (round-trip) walk up Monte Cinto. From the top, on a clear day, you can see the entire island and even the Apennines on the Italian mainland. Clouds and mist gather after about 10 am, however, particularly in summer. For this reason a 4 am start is recommended. Questions can be answered at Le Chalet.

Getting Here

From Ponte-Leccia, follow N197, then make a left onto D47 for 6 km (3 miles). Continue on D147 for 10 km (6 miles) to reach Asco. The drive takes about 30 minutes.

To reach Haut Asco, drive from Ponte-Leccia. Follow N197, then make a left onto D47 for 6 km (3 miles). Continue on D147 for 10 km (6 miles) to reach Asco. From Asco, take D447 that winds its way left and right for another 15 km (9 miles) to arrive in Haut Asco. The drive takes a minimum of one hour from Ponte-Leccia.

WHERE TO STAY

Le Chalet.

HOTEL | This hideaway at the very tip of the island has rooms with views of the mountains and a no-frills restaurant serving Corsican cuisine. Walls are covered with photographs of famous mountaineers. A store sells supplies to trekkers, who use the chalet as a way station from the GR 20. Pros: inexpensive rates; good restaurant; adequate room size. Cons: very remote location; no amenities; no Internet access. | Rooms from: €95 | Haut-Asco | 04–95–47–81–08 | www.hotel-lechalet-asco.com | 22 rooms | Closed early Nov.–early May | Some meals.

OTA

16 km (10 miles) northwest of Evisa on La Scala di Santa Regina.

The tiny village of Ota, overlooking the Gorges de Spelunca, has traditional stone houses that seem to be suspended on the mountainside, an amazing view of the surrounding mountains, and a number of trailheads. It’s an excellent base for hiking in the area.

Getting Here

Count on at least two hours to drive from La Scala di Santa Regina. Follow D218B, passing Casamaccioli. Follow D218, then take a left onto D84. Near Evisa, turn right then immediately turn left onto D84 for 20 km (12 miles) until you reach D124. Turn right onto D124 to arrive in Ota.

Note: Dangerous curves, steep cliff-side descents, and absolutely no street lighting in rugged mountain territory make this journey extremely hazardous in wintry conditions and at night. Plan accordingly and drive during the day only. Avoid traveling in this isolated region alone.

WHERE TO STAY

Chez Félix.

B&B/INN | Between Porto and Evisa, this homey place serves as dining room, guest house, and town hall. Cheerful owner Marinette Ceccaldi cooks up heaping portions of Corsican specialties ranging from wild boar to stewed rabbit. Suites are decorated with curios and antiques, each with a balcony overlooking the gorge. Rooms are comfortable and rustic. The hotel has a van that will transport you to hiking routes. Pros: picturesque setting; homestyle feel; inexpensive rates. Cons: remote location; no facilities. | Rooms from: €60 | Pl. de la Fontaine | 04–95–26–12–92 | gite-chez-felix.com | 4 apartments | No meals.

PORTO AND CALANCHES DI PIANA (CALANQUES DE PIANA)

5 km (3 miles) west of Ota, 74 km (45 miles) south of Calvi.

Set between the small resort town of Porto and petite historic 18th century village of Piana, the dramatic red rock formations rising nearly 300 meters high on the western coast are set against the crystalline Golfe de Porto (Gulf of Porto). The massive pink-granite mountains rise and fall dramatically with strange rock shapes plunging into the blue waters. The region is best seen at dusk, when the jagged landscape transforms into a luminescent glow of red as the sun sets. Porto itself is built around a small port that has a boardwalk lined with touristy restaurants and hotels. A short hike from here will bring you to a 16th-century Genoese tower that overlooks the bay. Boat excursions leave daily for the Réserve Naturel de Scandola on the Cape Girolata peninsula that protects indigenous wildlife in its extraordinary waters, inlets, and caves. Designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites, both the reserve and rock formation region draw crowds of tourists during summer months.

Getting Here

From Calvi, head south on N197 to D81. Follow D81 along the coast for 73 km (45 miles) until you reach Porto. The drive takes 90 minutes. From Porto, follow D81 southeast for 6 km (3 miles) to view the famous Calanches di Piana.

Book an afternoon boat ride to capture the most impressive views of the rugged precipices. Excursions tour coastal caves and cove. Tickets cost around €25 per person.

Visitor Information

Piana. | Hôtel de Ville, Pl. de la Mairie | Piana | 09–66–22–84–42 | www.otpiana.com.

WHERE TO STAY

Cala di Sole.

B&B/INN | A five-minute walk from the beach, Cala di Sole is ideally situated on the river’s edge and backed by the mountains. Apartment-style accommodations have small kitchens where you can prepare meals for the whole family. Room 105 has the best view. Across the street, Le Pub serves grilled meats, pizzas, and salads. Pros: peaceful location; large rooms; outdoor pool. Cons: dated decor. | Rooms from: €130 | Vaida | 04–95–26–12–44 | www.hotel-caladisole.com | 20 rooms | No meals.

CALVI

73 km (45 miles) north of Piana, 159 km (100 miles) north of Ajaccio, 92 km (57 miles) west of Bastia

Corsica’s slice of the Riviera, Calvi has been described as “an oasis of pleasure on an otherwise austere island.” During the 18th century the town endured assaults from Corsican nationalists, including celebrated patriot Pasquale Paoli. Today Calvi sees a summertime invasion of tourists, drawn to the 6-km (4-mile) stretch of sandy white beach, impressive citadel overlooking the Old Town, lively restaurants, and buzzing nightlife.

Getting Here

From Bastia, follow D81 until you cross Saint Florent. Continue on D81 toward Saint Florent for 52 km (32 miles), then go right onto N197. Follow the N197 for 40 km (24 miles) to reach Calvi. The drive will take approximately 2½ hours. Trains arrive from the main cities. Coach buses and boats are also available to access and tour the popular resort promontory.

Visitor Information

Office de Tourisme Calvi. | Port de Plaisance | 04–95–65–16–67 | www.calvi-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Citadelle.

This Genoese citadel is perched on a rocky promontory at the tip of the bay. An inscription above the drawbridge—civitas calvi semper fidelis (“The citizens of Calvi are always faithful”)—reflects the town’s unswerving allegiance to Genoa. At the welcome center, just inside the gates, you can watch the video on the city’s history, book an English-language guided tour, or follow the self-guided walking tour. | Rte. de la Citadelle | 04–95–65–36–74 | www.villedecalvi.fr | €9 | Easter–early Oct., tours daily at 10, 4:30, and 6:30.

Cathédrale St-Jean-Baptiste.

The austere facade of the 13th-century catehdral of John the Baptist is worth a visit to see its alabaster Renaissance baptismal font decorated with angel heads and rows of pews where the city’s chaste upper-class women used to pray. | Pl. d’Armes | 04–95–65–16–67.

WHERE TO EAT

Chez Tao.

SEAFOOD | At Chez Tao, an establishment that’s all the rage with local VIPs, enjoy the 16th-century terraces and overlooking the bay. Seafood like fresh fish with Cap Corse sauce is the menu’s specialty, but food plays second fiddle to the ambience, which includes Corsican folk singing, comedy, and piano until the wee hours. Expect high prices for cocktails, €12–€15. The experience is more acoustic than gastronomic. | Average main: €60 | Pl. de la Citadelle, Rue St. Francois | 04–95–65–00–73 | www.cheztao.com | Reservations essential | Closed mid-Sept.–Easter.

Emile’s.

FRENCH | With an open terrace offering panoramic views of the port, you’re lucky if you find a table at Emile’s during summer. This elegant restaurant serves prix-fixe menus for lunch and dinner. Prices run from steep to splurge for the classic French cuisine paired with local wines—the seasonal degustation menu runs €140. | Average main: €70 | Quai Landry | 04–95–65–09–60 | www.restaurant-emiles.fr | Reservations essential | Closed Dec.–mid-Jan., Mon. in winter, and Tues. year-round.

WHERE TO STAY

Calvi Mariana Hotel.

B&B/INN | On a hillside overlooking Calvi Bay, this hotel is just five minutes from the center of town. Numerous amenities include a fitness center, breakfast lounge, rooftop pool, and spa. Every room has a balcony with views of the water. The two-story villa sleeps up to 10 people and is a great choice for families. Pros: in-room massages; good facilities; convenient to town. Cons: small bathrooms; extra fee for Wi-Fi access. on busy roundabout. | Rooms from: €165 | Av. Santa Maria | 04–95–65–31–38 | www.hotel-mariana.com | 41 rooms, 5 suites | Breakfast.

Hotel La Signoria.

HOTEL | From the minute you step onto the honeycombed terra-cotta tiles of this historic 17th-century country manor—a former Genoese estate bestowed by King Louis XV—you’ll see why it’s part of the luxurious Relaix & Chateaux collection. Stylishly decorated with designer fabrics and fine furnishings, its comfortable bedrooms invite you to linger and lounge. The spectacular setting inspires with views of landscaped gardens, distant bays, and dramatic mountain peaks enjoyed from the stone patio, heated outdoor pool, or terraced dining room. The restaurant serves imaginative regional cuisine. Pros: tranquil location; beautiful manicured gardens; spa and fitness center with whirlpool tub and sauna. Cons: small beach; pricey basic breakfast; expensive restaurant is the dining option. | Rooms from: €440 | Rte. de la Forêt de Bonifato, 5 km (3 miles) from Calvi | 04–95–65–93–00 | www.hotel-la-signoria.com | 27 rooms and suites | Closed Nov.–Easter | No meals.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | La Villa Hotel & Spa.

HOTEL | A piece of paradise awaits—this Relais & Châteaux hotel on a manicured hill with marvelous views of the town and the citadel feels like a private Mediterranean villa. Owners Jean-Pierre and Marion Pinelli have created a contemporary haven where the balconied rooms are spacious and outfitted with the latest technology. The canopied dining area overlooks the pools, surrounded by a fragrant garden of lavender bushes and olive trees. Cooking classes for up to eight people give you privileged access to the gastronomic kitchen of Michelin-starred La Table de Bastien. Bring the kids—there’s even a children’s menu available. Pros: spectacular views; outstanding restaurants; tranquil garden. Cons: exorbitant prices; inconsistent service. | Rooms from: €450 | Chemin de Notre Dame de la Serra | 04–95–65–10–10 | www.hotel-lavilla.com | 56 suites and villas | Closed Jan. and Feb. | Breakfast.

Hotel Le Magnolia.

B&B/INN | In this pretty 19th-century former mansion between the church and the market, cozy rooms are named after French literary figures. Opt for the Verlaine, which overlooks the city’s rooftops and the port. Traditional interior design mimics French style of yesteryear with cherubs on walls behind quilted bedspreads. Find the restaurant in the garden under a giant magnolia tree—thus the name of the hotel. Pros: central location; discreet service; comfortable rooms. Cons: very thin walls; old-fashioned decor. | Rooms from: €175 | Rue Alsace Lorraine | 04–95–65–19–16 | www.hotel-le-magnolia.com | 10 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. | Multiple meal plans.

NIGHTLIFE

Chez Tao.

At Chez Tao, you can enjoy the 16th-century terraces overlooking the bay. Corsican music plays until the wee hours. Expect high prices for cocktails. | Rue St. Francois | 04–95–65–00–73 | www.cheztao.com.

L’Eden Port.

A popular nightspot, this centrally located disco offers expensive drinks, electronic music, and enthusiastic crowds. | Quai Landry, Port de Plaisance | 04–95–60–57– 44.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Boating and Sailing

FAMILY | Calvi Nautique Club.

Learn windsurfing, kayaking, and catamaran sailing at this outfitter. It’s a great spot for families, as there are lessons for kids. | Port de Plaisance | 04–95–65–10–65 | www.calvi-voile.fr.

Horseback Riding

Centre Équestre de Calvi.

Wear your swimming suit, as you and your horse are going to bathe in the Mediterranean. An hour-long guided tour on Corsican Thoroughbreds is a memorable way to discover natural beauty inaccessible by foot or car. | Rte. de Pietramaggiore | 04–95–65–22–22 | acavallu.online.fr.

CALENZANA

13 km (8 miles) from Calvi: head east on N197 for 5 km (3 miles), then south on D151.

At the base of Montegrossu, this privileged rural village has thrived on its agricultural and viticolic activities, producing some of the island’s best traditional products. Classic baroque religious sites can be viewed in the village, including the church of Saint Blaise and Sanctuary of Saint Restitude, before you journey into the rising peaks.

Getting Here

From Calvi, drive on the N197 for 5 km (3 miles). At the roundabout, take the first exit onto D151. Continue straight until you reach Calenzana.

By train, arrive into Calvi from Ajaccio or Bastia, then take a bus.

As a second option, if arriving from Bastia, get off the train before Calvi, at the Calenzana-Lumio station. Follow the route by foot to Calenzana as indicated.

EXPLORING

Cave du Domaine Orsini.

Calenzana is home of a spectacular wine cellar run by the Cave du Domaine Orsini, featuring famous grape varieties like Vermentino, Niellucciu, Grenache, Sciacarellu, and Cinsaut. Enjoy wine tastings and a property tour. A brightly decorated shop sells regional foods and a selection of the domain’s wines and liqueurs. | Clos Rochebelle | 04–95–62–81–01 | www.vins-corse.com.

CATERI

18 km (11 miles) north of Calenzana on D151.

The cheese-making center of Cateri, in La Balagne, is known for its unusual bell-tower church facade, a scrolled and pilastered miniature replica of Notre-Dame-des-Anges.

Getting Here

The drive from Calenzana takes approximately 20 minutes. Follow D151 north.

PIGNA

71 km (44 miles) from La Scala di Santa Regina.

The village of Pigna is dedicated to bringing back traditional Corsican music and crafts. Here you can listen to folk songs in cafés, visit workshops, and buy handmade musical instruments. During the first half of July, the Casa Musicale hosts a Festivoce featuring international vocal groups.

Getting Here

Follow the N197 toward Lumio, where you take a right onto D71. Cross Lavatoggio and Cateri, where you take a left onto D151. At Aregno, take a right to continue onto D151 until you enter Pigna.

WHERE TO STAY

Casa Musicale.

B&B/INN | This enchanting locale has traditional home-style cuisine and music of all kinds—often authentic Corsican polyphonic chanting—and a commanding view of La Balagne. Simple rooms have whitewashed walls and rustic furnishings; they can accommodate up to four people. Pros: rooms overlooking Algajola Bay; make your own kind of music; relaxed bohemian ambience. Cons: tiny rooms; thin walls; uninspiring decor. | Rooms from: €85 | Fondu Di U Paese | 04–95–61–77– 31 | www.casa-musicale.org | 7 rooms | Closed Jan. 5–Mar. 5. No dinner Sun. and Mon. except July 14–Aug. 30 | No meals.

SHOPPING

Casa di l’Artigiani.

The Casa di l’Artigiani, created to showcase local artisans, is the perfect place to find handmade crafts, from traditionally forged knives, leather items, musical instruments, to hand-knit sweaters. There are also locally produced culinary treasures like olive oils, jams, honeys, and canistrelli biscuits. | Rte. des Artisans | 04–95–61–77–29 | www.balagne-corsica.com.

L’ILE ROUSSE

10 km (6 miles) northeast of Algajola, 45 km (27 miles) southwest of St-Florent, 24 km (14 miles) north of Calvi

L’Ile Rousse, famous for its market and named for the island of reddish rock now connected to the town by a causeway, is a favorite for vacationers who come to bask in its Riviera-like mise-en-scène. A small two-car train runs along the coast to Calvi, delivering sun-worshippers to beaches not accessible by road.

Getting Here

The quickest way to reach L’Ile Rousse is by car from the east. Drive from Saint Florent on D81 for 30 km (18 miles). Take a right onto N197 for 15 km (9 miles) until you reach I’Ile Rousse. Use caution when navigating dangerous curves and steep descents. The picturesque drive through the rugged landscape and interior hills of the spectacular Desert des Agriates takes about 90 minutes.

A slow train chugs its way along the scenic coastline from Calvi toward the Balagne region with seasonal timetables. Tickets cost €6. Bus service is also available from Calvi (€4).

Visitor Information

L’Ile Rousse. | Av. Calizi | L’IIle Rousse | 04–95–60–04– 35 | www.ot-ile-rousse.fr.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel A Pasturella.

B&B/INN | Above a picturesque village, this charming hotel in Monticello—5 km (3 miles) southeast of L’Ile Rousse—has simple rooms with basic furnishings and geranium-filled window boxes with views of the mountains. The widely admired restaurant specializes in fresh seafood and Corsican dishes. Pros: clean rooms; excellent food; tranquil setting with views. Cons: expensive restaurant; no Internet access; not all rooms have balconies. | Rooms from: €194 | D263, 5 km (3 miles) outside L’Ile Rousse | Monticello | 04–95–60–05–65 | www.a-pasturella.com | 14 rooms | Closed Nov.–mid-Dec. | Multiple meal plans.

THE OUTDOORS

There are fine Riviera-like strands north of Calvi reached by a little train service that runs around the bay to L’Ile Rousse. Between late July and the end of August these are jam-packed, but they can be delightfully peaceful early or late in the season. In summer there are numerous cafés and restaurants for refreshment. Note that topless and sometimes nude sunbathing are acceptable here.

LAMA

29 km (18 miles) southeast of L’Ile Rousse, 57 km (24 miles) north of Corte.

The charmingly restored medieval village of Lama is only 10 minutes up the Ostriconi Valley. Everyone from the mayor to local children accommodates visitors; people say hello in the streets and seem to know where you are staying.

Getting Here

The best way to access this inland village is by car. Follow N197/D8 north from L’Ile Rousse until you reach Lama.

WHERE TO EAT

Campu Latinu Restaurant.

FRENCH | This picturesque restaurant in the shadow of century-old oak trees has a privileged location overlooking the tiny village of Lama. Try the stufatu du veaux aux olives et polenta (olive-draped veal), lasagna prepared with mint and brocciu, or coal-grilled lamb with maquis herbs. Finish with moelleux aux chataignes et coulis de clémentines (warm chestnut cake with sweet orange sauce). Both ambience and service are friendly, warm, and unpretentious for an authentic Corsican experience. | Average main: €30 | Route du Haut Village | 04–95–48–23–83 | www.campulatinu.fr | Closed Sept.–June; closed Mon.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Corse Escapades.

Whether you fancy a slow trot along the old mule trails to see the countryside on horseback or prefer more adrenaline-filled canyoning and catamaran sailing on open water, Corse Escapades can arrange nearly any outdoor activity you can imagine. | 04–95–48–22–99 | www.corse-escapades.com.

MURATO

15 km (9 miles) west of Lama, 23 km (14 miles) south of Bastia.

The village of Murato has two excellent restaurants and a remarkable 12th-century Pisan church, one of Corsica’s finest architectural treasures.

Getting Here

By car, take N193 in the direction of Biguglia. At the roundabout in Ceppe, take the second exit toward N193, direction Ajaccio-Calvi-Bonifacio-Poretta. Continue and take a right onto D62. Continue until a roundabout. Take the third exit onto D5 in the proximity of Col de San Stephano. Follow D5 until Murato.

EXPLORING

Église Mosaïque de San Michele de Murato (Mosaic Church of San Michele of Murato).

After a laborious climb up a steep hillside, you will see this polychromatic green-and-white marble limestone church from the 12th century. The Église Mosaïque de San Michele de Murato is one of the most unique religious sites on the island and seems to rise naturally from the grass and white rock landscape on which it stands. Look for the relief depicting Eve tempted by a serpent, covering her bare self with an oversized hand. The site has a stunning view overlooking the Golfe de St-Florent. | Col de San Stefanu.

WHERE TO EAT

Le Ferme Campo di Monte.

FRENCH | A gorgeously renovated 350-year-old stone farmhouse is the setting for Pauline and Jo Julliard’s authentic Corsican cuisine, widely regarded as some of the island’s most authentic and delicious. Indulge in the storzapreti (brocciu croquettes), gnocchi, soups, and local charcuterie. Perfectly roasted lamb with goat cheese and spinach dumplings is a succulent main course. For dessert, try beignets served with candied clementines or grappa-drizzled lemon cheesecake. In high season, reserve well in advance. | Average main: €50 | Lieu-dit Peru, D305 Rutali-Murato, Nebbio | 04–95–37–64–39 | www.fermecampodimonte.com | Reservations essential | No lunch Mon.–Sat. Closed Mon.–Wed. Sept.–June.

ST-FLORENT

28 km (17 miles) northeast of the exit for Lama on D81, 46 km (28 miles) northeast of L’Ile Rousse, 24 km (14 miles) west of Bastia

St-Florent is a postcard-perfect ancient fishing village nestled into the crook of the Golfe de St-Florent between the rich Nebbio Valley and the desert of Agriates. The 16th-century Genoese town has a crumbling citadel and Romanesque cathedral. Summer brings out tourists and luxury vessels moored in the yacht basin ringed by shops and restaurants. For oenophiles, this is the starting point of the route des vins to visit the region’s premium vineyards.

Getting Here

Drive from Bastia to reach this timeless village steeped in history and character. The journey takes about 45 minutes. Follow D81 passing Col de Teghime, Barbaggio, and Patrimonio. Meandering the curvy roads is slow but well worth the effort.

Bus service departs from Bastia and Ile Rousse with a seasonal schedule (€5).

Visitor Information

Office de Tourisme St-Florent. | Bâtiment Administratif | Saint Florent | 04–95–37–06–04 | www.corsica-saintflorent.com.

EXPLORING

Santa Maria Assunta.

An exceptional Romanesque church, the Eglise Santa Maria Assunta stands in isolated splendor among vineyards. The 12th-century white-limestone church is one of only six Pisan churches remaining on the island. Check out the facade and interior columns sculpted with human faces, snakes, snails, and mythical animals. | Rue Agostino Giustiniani | www.fondation-patrimoine.org/en.

PATRIMONIO

5 km (3 miles) northeast of St-Florent, 18 km (11 miles) west of Bastia.

The island’s own Napa Valley begins in this picturesque tiny village best known for its premium AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) wines and internationally acclaimed guitar nights that showcase musicians from around the world.

Getting Here

The drive from Bastia takes approximately 30 minutes. Follow D81, passing Col de Teghime and Barbaggio. Patrimonio is the next main town.

EXPLORING

Antoine Arena.

A fierce appreciation for Corsica’s natural resources runs in the Arena family, whose politically active son Antoine returned to his homeland after a promising law career on mainland France to become one of the island’s leading vintners. Producing organic wines reflective of the rocky limestone soil, his harvests focus on natural processes and techniques. | Morta-Majo | 04–95–37–08–27 | www.antoine-arena.fr.

Domaine Gentile.

On 75 acres of fertile land originally farmed by by Dominique Gentile, this leading vineyard now run by his oenologue son. The facility combines old techniques and modern technology to produce some of the finest wines and muscats of Cap Corse. | D81 | St-Florent | 04–95–37–01–54 | www.domaine-gentile.com.

Orenga de Gaffory.

Located at the base of Cap Corse Peninsula, these vineyards produce most of Corsica’s best wines. Sample more than 20 varieties and prestigious cuvées. Combining the family’s passion for contemporary art, a modern gallery is an added visual bonus when you tour the winery and its well-stocked caves. This is a must-see for oenophiles. | Lieu-dit Morta Majo | 04–95–37–45–00 | www.orengadegaffory.com | Low season, daily 9:30–6; high season, daily 8:30–8.

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

FAMILY | Nuits de las Guitare.

One of the most important international musical events featuring Corsican guitarists, Nuits de las Guitare is held annually during the third week of July in a picturesque medieval village between Bastia and St. Florent. The origins of the festival date back 50 years, when the Dominici brothers—avid amateur musicians—created regular guitar nights. The sleepy village of only 600 inhabitants is now a mecca for the best European and internationally-renowned artists. Book well in advance. | 04–95–37–12–15 | www.festival-guitare-patrimonio.com | €29–€45.

NONZA

14 km (9 miles) north of Patrimonio, 8 km (5 miles) south of Canelle.

On your way around Cap Corse, be sure to stop in Nonza. This vertiginous crag seems impossibly high over its famous black beach, the legacy of a former mine down the coast at Canari. The beach is accessible only by trudging down the 600 steps from Nonza, and no doubt this is the reason why it’s usually deserted. The chapel is dedicated to the martyred St. Julie, whose severed breasts, it’s said, became the double fountain known as the Fontaine aux Mamelles (Fountain of Mammaries) on the way down to the beach. The spectacular gravity-defying tower was constructed by Pasquale Paoli in 1760. Its squared corners made it easier to defend, as famed Captain Casella proved in 1768 when he stood off 1,200 French troops.

Getting Here

By car, follow D81. When you reach the roundabout, take the first exit onto D80. Continue until you reach Nonza.

Public buses run between Bastia and Nonza, continuing northward to Ogliastro, Canari, and Barrettali.

CENTURI

55 km (34 miles) north of Patrimonio, 41 km (25 miles) north of Nonza.

Centuri (pronounced chen-toori), Cap Corse’s top fishing port, is a good place for lunch on your way around the cape. The late afternoon arrival and unloading of the fishing boats is also a major event.

Getting Here

With winding coastal roads, calculate about an hour to reach Centuri by car. From Nonza, follow D80 and turn right onto D33. Continue onto D80, bearing right at Minerbio. Drive until you cross Pino and Moresiglia. Turn left onto D35 and continue until you reach Centuri.

WHERE TO STAY

Le Vieux Moulin.

B&B/INN | Built in 1870 as a private residence, this small hotel exudes Old World charm and authentic Corsican flavor. Rooms 7 to 14, tucked away in the more modern annex, are just as inviting, with bougainvillea-draped balconies overlooking the village. The hotel’s restaurant specializes in local seafood, including lots of lobster dishes. Try the soft cheese brousse tartare with black truffles, or the honey-glazed lamb. Savor a Cap Corse muscat and watch fishing boats slowly drift by in the ancient port below. Pros: panoramic view; tranquil location; excellent restaurant. Cons: expensive menu; basic decor. | Rooms from: €130 | Rte. de Cap Corse | Centuri Port | 04–95–35–60–15 | www.le-vieux-moulin.net | 18 rooms | Closed Nov.–Mar. | No meals.

EN ROUTE: From Centuri continue along the D80 coastal road to the belvedere near the Moulin Mattei windmill at Col de Serra on the tip of the peninsula. As you round the tip, you can see several of Corsica’s 90 Genoese watchtowers, as well as Giraglia Island, with its lighthouse. Take D253 north to reach the fishing village of Barcaggio. A long, sandy beach extends east from the village, ending in a path leading to the 16th-century Tour D’Agnello. The Finocchiarola Islands, a protected aviary reserve that can be visited by boat from Macinaggio, are visible off the northeast corner of the peninsula. As you head down the east coast of Cap Corse on D80, consider a detour on D180 through the Col de Ste-Lucie to the Tour de Sénèque, home of the Roman philosopher and writer Seneca after he was exiled for seducing the niece of Emperor Claudius. Farther south on D80, a drive up D32 to the town of Sisco will take you to within a 2-km (1-mile) walk of the Romanesque church of San Michele, built in 1030.

ERBALUNGA

40 km (25 miles) southeast of Centuri, 10 km (6 miles) north of Bastia.

Erbalunga is one of the most charming villages on Cap Corse’s east coast, with stone houses sloping gently down to a tiny pier and Genoese tower built into a rock ledge.

Possibly because it was French poet Paul Valéry’s ancestral home, a famous colony of artists settled here in the 1920s. During mid-August, Erbalunga hosts an annual music festival, featuring famous French and Corsican artists. Although the town itself has several rocky beaches, the best can be found 15 miles north of Erbalunga at Cala Francese. Here, emerald waters and sandy beaches are neighbored by an old Genoese tower.

Getting Here

A quick 20-minute drive north by car or bus is a must-do. Follow the D80A, D331, and D80 to reach Erbalunga.

Buses departing from Bastia for Cap Corse are operated by Societe des Transports Interurbains Bastiais (04–95–31–06–65). To Erbalunga, more than 20 buses run daily. Tickets are €2.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Castel Brando.

HOTEL | With dark-green shutters, terra-cotta floors, and a vaulted library lounge filled with country-style antiques, this authentic 19th-century maison de maître sits in one of the most beautiful historic villages in Corsica. Traditionally decorated rooms are spread among four buildings in a parklike setting. Book a room with a small private loggia overlooking the valley or a suite in the original section built in 1853. There are two swimming pools—one catching lots of sun, the other tucked away in the lush orangerie. Expect a Corsican-style buffet breakfast with charcuterie, pastries, and breads. Pros: excellent spa with Turkish bath; helpful staff; stunning location. Cons: no restaurant or bar; some rooms showing their age. | Rooms from: €199 | Off D80 | 04–95–30–10–30 | www.castelbrando.com | 39 rooms 6 suites | Closed early Nov.–mid-Mar. | Breakfast.

SAN MARTINO DI LOTA

12 km (7 miles) north of Bastia.

Just 20 minutes from downtown Bastia, the turnoff to the perched village of San Martino di Lota winds through thick vegetation as the flat blue expanse of the Tyrrhenian Sea spreads out below. An architectural highlight is the 17th-century parish church dedicated to Saint Martin. Look inside the sanctuary to find the altar piece crafted by Capuchin monks of the Mola monastery. A hike up to the mountain pass, Bocca di Santo Lunardo, above the village, is a perfect way to develop a ravenous appetite: the trek takes between six and eight hours round-trip and provides fantastic views of Cap Corse, the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the Tuscan hills.

Getting Here

Drive on the D80 north to reach the lush ridge overlooking the magnificent waters.

WHERE TO STAY

La Corniche.

HOTEL | Nestled in the oak and chestnut trees of a tranquil hamlet about 15 minutes from Bastia, La Corniche’s location and unpretentious ambience set it apart. There are shaded terraces, expansive views, and friendly service befitting a perfectly positioned hôtel de charme. Creative Corsican cuisine takes advantage of the best local produce. Whereas breakfast is a delightful canvas of fresh pastries, fig jam, yogurts, and cheeses, dinner tempts with a sumptuous set menus and a list of over 300 wines. In winter, relax by the wood-burning fireplace and savor cabri aux herbes du maquis (roast goat in maquis herbs). Pros: peaceful location with magnificent views; large outdoor pool; excellent restaurant. Cons: steep climb from parking lot; must have car to reach property; some noise from the terrace. | Rooms from: €109 | Hameau Castagneto | 04–95–31–40–98 | www.hotel-lacorniche.com | 20 rooms | Closed Dec. and Jan. | Multiple meal plans.

BASTIA

170 km (105 miles) north of Bonifacio, 153 km (95 miles) northeast of Ajaccio.

Notably more Italianate than the French-influenced Ajaccio, Bastia is quintessentially Corsican. The Baroque coastal town has a historic center that retains the timeless, salty flavor of an ancient Mediterranean port. Its name is derived from the word “bastion,” in reference to the fortress the Genoese built here in the 14th century as a stronghold against rebellious islanders. The Terra Vecchia (Old Town) is best explored on foot. Start at the wide, palm-filled place St-Nicolas, bordered on one side by docked ships looming large in the port and on the other by two blocks of popular cafés along boulevard Général-de-Gaulle.

Getting Here

You can reach Bastia by air or sea. Flights arrive regularly from main cities in Europe at the Aéroport de Bastia-Poretta situated in Lucciana, southeast of the city. From here, Autobus Bastiais shuttle bus lines run from 6:30 am to 10 pm (depending on season) to downtown in 40 minutes for €8. Expect to pay €30 to €40 for a taxi.

Ferries cross from France (Nice, Toulon, Marseilles) and Italy (Livorno, Genova, Verde Ligure). The average crossing time is around five hours. Train services link Bastia to Ajaccio and Calvi. The station is only a short distance from Bastia’s ferry port, on Rond-point Maréchal Leclerc.

Visitor Information

Office de Tourisme Bastia. | Pl. St-Nicolas | 04–95–54–20–40 | www.bastia-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Cathédrale Ste-Marie.

A network of cobbled alleyways rambles across the citadel to the 15th-century Cathédrale Ste-Marie, one of the town’s prettiest churches. Inside, classic baroque style abounds in an explosion of gilt decoration. Numerous works of art from the 18th and 19th centuries, forged metalwork, sculptures, and statues that were generous gifts from the bishops of Mariana, residents of the cathedral from 1600 to 1622, are showcased. | Rue Notre-Dame | www.bastia-tourisme.com.

Chapelle Sainte Croix (Chapel of the Holy Cross).

The sumptuous rococo style of the Chapelle Ste-Croix, behind the cathedral, makes it look more like a theater than a church. The chapel owes its name to a blackened oak crucifix, dubbed “Christ of the Miracles,” discovered by fishermen at sea in 1428 and venerated to this day by Bastia’s fishing community. The most ancient church of the town, this chapel has officially been classified as a historic monument since 1931. | 4 rue de l’Evêché.

Église de la Conception (Church of the Conception).

The 16th-century Église de la Conception occupies a cobblestoned square. Step inside the baroque portal to admire the church’s ornate 18th-century interior, requiring a bright day to see much detail as interior lighting is quite dim. The walls are covered with wood carvings, gold, marble, and velvet fabric. Check out the altar’s interpretation of the Assumption of Murillo, whose original version sits in Madrid’s El Prado Museum. | Rue Napoléon | www.bastia-tourisme.com.

Musée de Bastia.

The vaulted, colonnaded galleries of the Palais des Nobles Douzes houses the Musée de Bastia. Don’t miss the Casablanca, a French submarine used by the Resistance with swastikas on the turret representing downed Nazi aircraft. The building itself has been undergoing modifications since the 18th century, when it used as the meeting place for rural commune leaders. | Pl. du Donjon | 04–95–31–09–12 | www.musee-bastia.com | July–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 10–7:30; Apr.–June and Sept. 18–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10–6; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Sat. 9–noon and 2–5:30.

Place du Marché.

The central market square, the Place du Marché buzzes with activity every morning except Monday. The warren of narrow streets that make up the old fishermen’s quarter begins at the far side of the square. | Pl. du Marché | www.bastia-tourisme.com.

FAMILY | Terra Nova (New Town).

The city’s more modern quarter of the city is well worth a promenade. Climb the Escalier Romieu steps beside the leafy Jardins Romieu for a sweeping view of the Italian islands of Capraia, Elba, and Montecristo. | www.bastia-tourisme.com.

Vieux Port (Old Port).

The picturesque Vieux Port, along Quai des Martyrs de la Libération, is dominated by the hilltop citadel. Take a stroll along the harbor, which is lined with excellent seafood restaurants. You can still find many bright red-and-blue fishing boats with tangles of old nets and lines. | Quai des Martyrs de la Libération | www.bastia.fr.

WHERE TO EAT

A Scaletta.

SEAFOOD | Enjoy the view of the Vieux Port from a pretty specials at this popular spot with friendly service. Expect traditional Corsican fare made from fresh local ingredients, including an array of fish and seafood. Three-course menus (€18 to €29) may include beignets de fromage (fried cheese), ravioli in tomato sauce, or sautéed sardines with eggplant. | Average main: €30 | 4 rue St-Jean | 04–95–32–28–70 | Reservations essential | Closed Sun.

La Citadelle.

BISTRO | This rustic and intimate spot, built in an ancient oil press, has great views of the port and a perfect location near the Governor’s Palace. Serving trendy cuisine in nouvelle Corsican style, the restaurant offers elegantly prepared and presented dishes featuring veal, lobster, and fresh fish. Especially popular are the swordfish garnished with wild mint and roasted eggplant, the caramelized suckling pig, and the sea bass fillet draped in panzetta. | Average main: €60 | 6 rue du Dragon | 04–95–31–44–70 | Closed Sun. and Mon. Nov.–Dec. No lunch Sat.

L’Imperial.

BRASSERIE | A perfect place to people-watch as you enjoy a quick lunch, this busy restaurant has ample outdoor seating right in the center of Place Saint Nicolas. Thin-crust pizzas and salads are a bargain, but for something more substantial, try the risotto with shrimp, beef filet with foie gras, or wok-sautéed salmon with fresh vegetables. | Average main: €20 | 9–11 bd. Général De Gaulle | 04–95–31–04–42.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Posta Vecchia.

HOTEL | At the end of a quiet promenade near the water’s edge, this former post office puts you close to Place St-Nicolas and the Citadelle. The rooms are basic, but they do have wood floors and windows you can throw open to catch the breeze. Ask for a room with a sea view. There are also a few much-appreciated extras, like free Wi-Fi access. Pros: central location; spic-and-span rooms; friendly staff. Cons: tiny bathrooms; overpriced breakfast; noisy rooms on boulevard side. | Rooms from: €65 | Quai des Martyrs-de-la-Libération,8 rue Posta Vecchia | 04–95–32–32–38 | www.hotel-postavecchia.com | 50 rooms | Closed Dec. 25–Jan. 15 | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Bars and Clubs

L’Alba.

Between the Vieux Port and Place St-Nicolas, L’Alba is a trendy lounge that occasional hosts cabaret and floor shows. | 22 quai des Martyrs-de-la-Libération | 04–95–47–03– 38.

Festivals

One of Corsica’s major carnivals, the Fête du Christ Noir (Feast of the Black Christ), dedicated to Bastia’s most important religious icon, is on May 3. In early June the streets of Calvi become a musical haven with the Annual Festival of Jazz, while Calvi on the Rocks keeps it hopping in early July. The Fête de St-Jean, on Midsummer’s Eve (June 23), means concerts in all of Bastia’s baroque spaces. All of Corsica celebrates Bastille Day (French Independence) on July 14. A Film Festival of Mediterranean Cultures is held every November. An International Music Festival is in early December.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Objectif Nature.

This company organizes outings geared for nature lovers: hiking, biking, horseback riding, and parasailing are among the favorite activities. Rental equipment and experienced guides are available. | 3 rue Notre Dame de Lourdes | 04–95–32–54–34 | www.objectif-nature-corse.com.

SHOPPING

Cap Corse Mattei.

The most legendary Corsican distillery, founded in 1917, sells the Mattei family’s special grape-based Cap Corse liqueur. Other products include aromatic honeys, jams, chutneys, and oils. | 15 bd. Général de Gaulle | 04–95–32–44–38.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Main Table of Contents

Welcome to The Midi-Pyrénées and Languedoc-Roussillon

Toulouse

Albi and the Gers

Languedoc-Roussillon

Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner

Updated by Avery Sumner

Like the most celebrated dish of this area, cassoulet, the southwestern region of France is made up of diverse ingredients. Just as it would be a gross oversimplification to refer to cassoulet merely as a mixture of baked beans, southwestern France is much more than just Toulouse, the peaks of the Pyrénées, and the fairy-tale ramparts of Carcassonne.

For here you’ll also find, like so many raisins sweetening up a spicy stew, the pretty seaside town of Collioure, the famed Côte Vermeille (where Matisse, Picasso, and Braque first vacationed to paint), and Albi, a hilltop town that honors its hometown hero, Toulouse-Lautrec, with a great museum. But in most cases, every traveler heading to this area begins with the regional gateway: “La Ville Rose,” so-called for Toulouse’s redbrick buildings.

Big enough to be France’s fourth-largest city and yet with the look and vibe of a gorgeous small town, Toulouse is all that more famous regional capitals would like to have remained, or to become. The cultural hub of this corner of France, the city has a vibrancy that derives from its large student population and lively music scene, plus a rich heritage of sculpture and architectural gems. Snaking along the banks of the Garonne as it meanders north and west from the Catalan Pyrénées on its way to the Atlantic, romantic Toulouse has a Spanish sensuality unique in all of Gaul. The city began as the ancient capital of the province called Languedoc, so christened when it became royal property in 1270, langue d’oc meaning the country where oc replaced the oui of northeastern France for “yes.”

If you head out in any direction from Toulouse you’ll enjoy a feast for the eyes. Albi, with its Toulouse-Lautrec legacy, is a star attraction, while Céret is the gateway to a fabled “open-air museum” prized by artists and poets, the Côte Vermeille. The Vermilion Coast is centered around Collioure, the lovely fishing village where Matisse, Derain, and the Fauvists—the “wild beasts” of the early-20th-century art world—threw out the pretty pastel rule book, drawing inspiration instead from the savage tones found in Mother Nature hereabouts. When you see picturesque Collioure’s stunning Mediterranean setting, you can understand why Matisse went color-mad. Sheer heaven for painters, the town’s magic did not go unnoticed, and it soon drew vacationers by the boatload, who quickly discovered that everything around here seems to be asking to be immortalized on canvas: the Mediterranean, smooth and opalescent at dawn; villagers dancing Sardanas to the music of the raucous and ancient woodwind flavioles and tenores; and the flood of golden light so peculiar to the Mediterranean.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Matisse madness: Captivating Collioure, the main town of the Vermilion Coast, was where Matisse and Derain went crazy with color and created the Fauvist art movement in the early 20th century.

Fairy-tale Carcassonne: Complete with towers, turrets, and battlements, Carcassonne’s fortified upper town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that feels like a medieval theme park.

Tumultuous Toulouse: With rosy roofs and redbrick mansions, the “Pink City” is a place where high culture is an evening at an outdoor café.

Albi’s Toulouse-Lautrec: Presided over by the fortresslike Cathédrale Ste-Cécile, Albi honors its most famous native son, Toulouse-Lautrec, with the largest museum of his works.

Abbey in the sky: At an altitude of nearly 3,600 feet, the picture-postcard medieval Abbaye St-Martin du Canigou enjoys a perch that (literally) takes your breath away.

GETTING ORIENTED

Spend some time in the Midi-Pyrénées, the country’s largest region, and the term “the south of France” takes on new meaning. This western half of France’s south is less glamorous (and much less expensive) than the Riviera and Provence but has an array of must-sees, beginning with lively Toulouse. East lies Languedoc, a province of contrasts—of rolling sun-baked plains around Carcassonne, of stone-and-shrub-covered hills spiked with ruins of ancient civilizations. Stretching south along the Mediterranean is the southernmost province of Roussillon, home to that artists’ paradise, the Vermilion Coast.

WHAT’S WHERE

Toulouse. Now the center of Europe’s high-tech aerospace industry (Airbus is made here), the city sees itself as the modern gateway to the south. Happily, Toulouse’s new forward-looking attitude hasn’t infringed on the well-preserved centre ville (city center), a veritable museum of mansions, where the brick-paved streets make you feel as if you’re in a small town and aerospace engineers own Renaissance houses.

Albi. Some 75 km (47 miles) northeast of Toulouse, Albi sits on the Tarn River and was once a major center of the Cathars, a medieval Christian sect; the huge Cathédrale Ste-Cécile was a symbol of the Roman Catholic Church’s victory over these heretics. Art lovers make a pilgrimage to the famed Musée Toulouse-Lautrec.

Languedoc-Roussillon. Studded with vineyards and ghosts of famed artists, Languedoc is a vast province that ranges from Carcassonne in the Black Mountains eastward to aristocratic Montpellier on the Mediterranean. Included in the region are famous sights like Carcassonne’s La Cité—the largest medieval town extant—and le littoral Languedocien (the Languedoc coast), where France’s “second Riviera” draws both artists and sun worshippers to Collioure and other towns along the Côte Vermeille (Vermilion Coast).

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

You can expect pleasantly warm weather as early as April and as late as October, but be prepared for rainstorms and/or heat waves at almost any time. The weather is especially unpredictable in the Pyrénées: a few passing clouds can rapidly turn into a full-blown storm. Needless to say, during July and August towns high on tourist lists—like Albi, Carcassonne, and Collioure—are packed, so perhaps opt for April and May, which are delightful months on the Côte Vermeille and also the time when the Pyrénéan flowers are at their best. June and September (grape-picking season, or vendange) are equally good for both inland and coastal areas. As October draws near, the chilly winds of winter begin to blow and frenzied mushroom hunters ferret amid the chestnut and pine trees. Olive harvesters set to work in November.

No matter the season, there’s plenty here to occupy those who love the outdoors, whether it be hiking the Grandes Randonnées (GRs), scaling lofty peaks, or skiing sun-dappled snowfields.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Getting to know this vast region would take several weeks, or even years. But it’s possible to sample all of its finest offerings in nine days, if that’s all the time you have. Begin by practicing your “Olé’s” in Spanish-soul Toulouse; after two days and two nights in this vibrant city, veer west to the Gers département to spend Day 3 in Albi and take a virtual art class with Toulouse-Lautrec at the famous museum here devoted to his masterworks. On Day 4, continue some 112 km (70 miles) south to once-upon-a-timefied Carcassonne to introduce your kids to the Puss-in-Boots fantasy of this castellated wonder. After a night filled with medieval history and glamour, travel southeast on Day 5 to the Vermilion Coast. It’s time to pack your crayons for a trip to Matisse Country and head to the Roussillon’s coastal town of Collioure to channel the spirits of the famous Fauve painters. Spend all of Day 6 here. Then on Day 7, drive north past Perpignan, the historic hub city of the Roussillon, and head to marvelous Montpellier. After your seventh night, enjoy Day 8 by touring this city’s fascinating Vieille Ville (Old Town), steeped in culture, history, and young blood (a famous university is based here). Add on a Day 9 to chill out before returning to reality.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Air Travel

Flying here is easy because the region has four airports—Toulouse-Blagnac being the largest. They’re served by major airlines, like Air France (www.airfrance.com), as well as budget carriers. The latter—including easyJet (www.easyjet.com), Flybe (www.flybe.com), and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com)—offers surprisingly cheap flights from U.K. and Continental cities, often as low as €30 one-way.

Airport Information

Aéroport Montpellier-Méditerranée. | Montpellier | 04–67–20–85–00 | www.montpellier.aeroport.fr.

Aéroport Sud de France-Carcassonne. | Carcassonne | 04–68–71–96–46 | www.aeroport-carcassonne.com.

Aéroport Sud de France-Perpignan. | Perpignan | 04–68–52–60–70 | www.aeroport-perpignan.com.

Aéroport Toulouse-Blagnac. | Toulouse | 08–25–38–00–00 €0.15 per min | www.toulouse.aeroport.fr.

Bus Travel

Many public and private bus companies thread through the Midi-Pyrénées, including the Conseil Général from Toulouse and Perpignan; Cars Teissiers from Carcassonne; and Herault Transport from Montpellier. It’s wise to check with the pertinent local tourist office regarding your best options, as bus stops and schedules can be confusing even for native commuters. Generally speaking Toulouse’s bus routes run to and from Albi (1½ hrs, €13) and Carcassonne (2 hrs, €12); Albi connects with Cordes-sur-Ciel in summer; while Montpellier connects with Narbonne. From Perpignan, the Conseil General’s extensive network of buses links almost all towns and villages in the department for €1. (All destinations on the train line from Perpignan to Villefranche are also just €1.) Note that if you are coming from Spain, Eurolines (www.eurolines.fr) and Perpicat (www.perpicat.com) run cross-border buses to Perpignan.

Bus Information

Cars Teissiers. | Carcassonne | 04–68–25–85–45 | www.teissier.fr.

Conseil Général Buses. | 05–61–61–67–67 Toulouse, 04–68–80–80–80 Perpignan | www.haute-garonne.fr (for Toulouse) or www.cg66.fr (for Perpignan).

Herault Transport. | Montpellier | 04–34–88–89–99 | www.herault-transport.fr.

Car Travel

The fastest route from Paris to Toulouse, 677 km (406 miles) south, is via Limoges on A20, then A62; the journey time is about six hours. If you choose to head south over the Pyrénées to Barcelona, the Tunnel du Puymorens saves half an hour of switchbacks between Hospitalet and Porta; but in good weather—and with time to spare—the drive over the Puymorens Pass is spectacular. Plan on taking three hours between Toulouse and Font-Romeu and another three to Barcelona. The fastest route from Toulouse to Barcelona is the under-three-hour, 391-km (235-mile) drive via Carcassonne and Perpignan on A61 and A9, which becomes AP7 at Le Perthus. A62/A61 slices through the region on its way through Carcassonne to the coast at Narbonne, where A9 heads south to Perpignan. At Toulouse, where A62 becomes A61, various highways fan out in all directions. A9 (La Languedocienne) is the main highway artery that connects Montpellier with Beziers to the south and Nîmes to the north.

Train Travel

At least 10 high-speed TGVs per day leave Paris’s Gare Montparnasse and Gare Austerlitz bound for Toulouse; depending on which one you choose, the journey can take between 5½ and 7 hours. There are also 15 daily departures from Paris to Narbonne and 13 to Perpignan. Most of these trips take 6 to 7 hours, but if you get a TGV from the Gare de Lyon you can be in Narbonne in 4½ hours. A TGV line from Paris also serves Montpellier 18 times a day, departing from the Gare de Lyon. The regional French rail network (TER) provides regular service to many towns, though not all. Within the Midi-Pyrénées, Toulouse is the biggest hub, with a major line linking Carcassonne (1 hr, €15), Narbonne (1½ hrs, €21; change here for Perpignan), and Montpellier (2 hrs, €32); trains link up with Albi (1 hr, €15), too. Toulouse trains also connect with Biarritz (5 hrs, €45), Pau (3 hrs, €30), and Bordeaux (3 hrs, €35). Montpellier connects with Carcassonne (2 hrs, €23), Perpignan (2 hrs, €25), and other towns. From Perpignan, take one of the dozen or so daily trains to Collioure (20 mins, €6).

Train Information

Gare SNCF Carcassonne. | 1 av. Marechal Joffre, | Carcassonne.

Gare SNCF Montpellier. | Rue Jules Ferry, | Montpellier | 3635 €0.34 per min.

Gare SNCF Narbonne. | 1 bd. Frédéric Mistral, | Narbonne | 3635 €0.34 per min.

Gare SNCF Perpignan. | Av. du Général de Gaulle, | Perpignan | 3635 €0.34 per min.

Gare SNCF Toulouse-Matabiau. | 64 Bd. Pierre Semard, | Toulouse | 3635 €0.34 per min.

SNCF. | 3635 €0.34 per min | www.voyages-sncf.com.

TGV. | www.tgv.com.

RESTAURANTS

As a rule, the closer you get to the Mediterranean coast, the later you dine and the more you pay for your seafood platter and bottle of iced rosé. The farther you travel from the coast, the higher the altitude, the more rustic the setting, and the more reasonable the prices will be. During the scorching summer months in sleepy mountain villages, lunches are light, interminable, and bien arrosé (with lots of wine). Here you can also find that small personal restaurant where the chickens roasting on spits above the open fire have first names and the cheese comes from the hippie couple down the road who arrived here in the ’60s and love their mountains, their goats, and the universe in general.

HOTELS

Hotels range from Mediterranean modern to medieval baronial to Pyrénéan chalet, and most are small and cozy rather than luxurious and sophisticated. Toulouse has the usual range of big-city hotels, for which you need to make reservations well in advance if you plan to visit in spring or fall. Look for gîtes d’étape (hikers’ way stations) and chambres d’hôtes (bed-and-breakfasts), which offer excellent value, a chance to meet local and international travelers, and, perhaps, to sample life on a farm, as well as the delights of cuisine du terroir (country cooking). As for off-season—if there is such a thing, since chic Parisians often arrive in November in their SUVs with a hunger for the authentic—call ahead and double-check when hotels close for their annual hibernation. This usually starts sometime in winter, either before, or right after, the Christmas holidays. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

The regional tourist office for the Midi-Pyrénées is the Comité Régional du Tourisme Midi-Pyrénées. For Pyrénées-Orientales information, contact the Comité Départemental de Tourisme du Pyrénées-Orientales. For Languedoc-Roussillon, contact the Comité Régional du Tourisme du Languedoc-Roussillon.

Contacts

Comité Départemental de Tourisme du Pyrénées-Orientales. | 16 av. Des Palmiers, | Perpignan | 04–68–51–52–53 | www.tourisme-pyreneesorientales.com.

Comité Régional du Tourisme (CRT PACA) | 61 La Canebière, | Marseille | 04/91–56–47–00 | www.tourismepaca.fr.

Comité Régional du Tourisme du Languedoc-Roussillon. | 20 rue République, | Montpellier | 04–67–20–02–20 | www.sunfrance.com.

Comité Régional du Tourisme Midi-Pyrénées. | 15 rue Rivals, | Toulouse | 05–61–13–55–55 | www.tourisme-midi-pyrenees.com.

Handy websites for this region are www.audetourisme.com and www.tourisme-tarn.com.

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Exploring | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Nightlife and the Arts | Shopping

The ebullient city of Toulouse is the capital of the Midi-Pyrénées and the fourth-largest city in France. Just 100 km (60 miles) from the border with Spain, Toulouse is in many ways closer in flavor to southern European Spanish than to northern European French. Weathered redbrick buildings line sidewalks, giving the city its nickname, “La Ville Rose” (the Pink City). Downtown, the sidewalks and restaurants pulse late into the night with tourists, workers, college students, and technicians from the giant Airbus aerospace complex headquartered outside the city.

Despite Toulouse’s bustling, high-tech attitude, its well-preserved centre ville—the brick-paved streets between the Garonne River and the Canal du Midi—retains the feel of a small town, where food, Beaujolais nouveau, and the latest rugby victory are the primary concerns. So be prepared to savor the Mediterranean pace, southern friendliness, and youthful spirit of the city. Toulouse was founded in the 4th century BC and quickly became an important part of Roman Gaul. In turn, it was made into a Visigothic and Carolingian capital before becoming a separate county in 843. Ruling from this Pyrénéan hub, the counts of Toulouse held sovereignty over nearly all of the Languedoc and maintained a brilliant court known for its fine troubadours and literature. In the early 13th century, Toulouse was attacked and plundered by troops representing an alliance between the northern French nobility and the papacy, ostensibly to wipe out the Albigensian heresy (Catharism), but more realistically as an expansionist move against the power of Occitania, the French southwest. The counts toppled, but Toulouse experienced a cultural and economic rebirth thanks to the woad (blue dye) trade, and, consequently, wealthy merchants’ homes constitute a major portion of Toulouse’s architectural heritage.

Toulouse, at the intersection of the Garonne and the Canal du Midi, midway between the Massif Central and the Pyrénées, became an important nexus between Aquitania, Languedoc, and the Roussillon. Today, Toulouse is France’s second-largest university town after Paris and the center of France’s aerospace industry.

Getting Here

Aéroport Toulouse-Blagnac is served by a range of airlines, including Air France (www.airfrance.com) and easyJet (www.easyjet.com); a shuttle (www.tisseo.fr) runs every 20 minutes between 5:30 am and 12:15 pm from the airport to Toulouse’s combined train-bus station on Boulevard Pierre Sémard (€5). If you’re coming by train, there are at least 10 high-speed TGVs a day from Paris; the travel time for a direct one is about 5 hours, 30 minutes (€75). Toulouse is also a regional rail hub, so train links to other locales within the Midi-Pyrénées are also widely available.

Visitor Information

Toulouse Tourist Office. | Donjon du Capitole | 08–92–18–01–80 | www.toulouse-tourisme.com.

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EXPLORING

OLD TOULOUSE

The area between the boulevards and the Garonne forms the historic nucleus of Toulouse. Originally part of Roman Gaul and later the capital for the Visigoths and then the Carolingians, Toulouse was one of the artistic and literary centers of Europe by AD 1000. Although defeated by the lords of northern France in the 13th century, Toulouse quickly reemerged as a cultural and commercial power and has remained so ever since. Religious and civil structures bear witness to this illustrious past, even as the city’s booming student life mirrors a dynamic present. This is the heart of Toulouse, with place du Capitole at its center.

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | Basilique St-Sernin.

Toulouse’s most famous landmark and the world’s largest Romanesque church once belonged to a Benedictine abbey, built in the 11th century to house pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Inside, the aesthetic high point is the magnificent central apse, begun in 1080, glittering with gilded ceiling frescoes, which date from the 19th century. When illuminated at night, St-Sernin’s five-tier octagonal tower glows red against the sky. Not all the tiers are the same: the first three, with their rounded windows, are Romanesque; the upper two, with pointed Gothic windows, were added around 1300. The ancient crypt contains the relics and reliquaries of 128 saints, but the most famous item on view is a thorn that legend says is from the Crown of Thorns. | Pl. Saint-Sernin | 05–61–21–80–45 | www.basilique-st-sernin-toulouse.fr | Basilica free, crypt €2 | Oct.–May, Mon.–Sat. 8:30–6, Sun. 8:30–7:30; June –Sept., Mon.–Sat. 8:30–7, Sun. 8:30–7:30.

Capitole/Hôtel de Ville (Capitol/Town Hall).

The 18th-century Capitole is home to the Hôtel de Ville and the city’s highly regarded opera company; the reception rooms are open to the public when not in use for official functions or weddings. Halfway up the Grand Escalier (Grand Staircase) hangs a large painting of the Jeux Floraux, the “floral games” organized by a literary society created in 1324 to promote the local Occitanian language, Langue d’Oc. The festival continues to this day: poets give public readings here each May, and the best are awarded silver- and gold-plated violets, one of the emblems of Toulouse. At the top of the stairs is the Salle Gervaise, a hall adorned with a series of paintings inspired by the themes of love and marriage. The mural at the far end of the room portrays the Isle of Cythères, where Venus received her lovers, alluding to a French euphemism for getting married: embarquer pour Cythères (to embark for Cythères). More giant paintings in the Salle Henri-Martin, named for the artist (1860–1943), show the passing seasons set against the eternal Garonne. Look for Jean Jaurès (1859–1914), one of France’s greatest socialist martyrs, in Les Rêveurs (The Dreamers); he’s wearing a boater-style hat and a beige coat. At the far left end of the elegant Salle des Illustres (Hall of the Illustrious) is a large painting of a fortress under siege, portraying the women of Toulouse slaying Simon de Montfort, leader of the Albigensian crusade against the Cathars, during the siege of Toulouse in 1218. | Pl. du Capitole | 05–61–22–34–12 | Free | Mon.–Sat. 8:30–7, Sun. 10–7.

Ensemble Conventuel des Jacobins.

An extraordinary structure built in the 1230s for the Dominicans (renamed Jacobins in 1216 for their Parisian base in Rue St-Jacques), this church is dominated by a single row of seven columns running the length of the nave. The easternmost column (on the far right) is one of the finest examples of palm-tree vaulting ever erected, the much-celebrated Palmier des Jacobins, a major masterpiece of Gothic art. Fanning out overhead, its 22 ribs support the entire apse. The original refectory site is used for temporary art exhibitions. The cloister is one of the city’s aesthetic and acoustical gems, and in summer hosts piano and early music concerts. | 69 rue Pargaminières | 05–61–22–21–92 | www.jacobins.mairie-toulouse.fr | Church free; cloister €3 | Daily 10–6.

Hôtel d’Assézat.

The city’s most elegant mansion was built in 1555 by Toulouse’s top Renaissance architect, Nicolas Bachelier. Notable for its arcades and ornately carved doorways, the Hôtel d’Assézat is now home to Fondation Bemberg, which has an exceptional collection of paintings by artists ranging from Tiepolo to Toulouse-Lautrec, Monet, and Bonnard. | Pl. Assézat | 05–61–12–06–89 | www.fondation-bemberg.fr | Free, Fondation Bemberg €8 | Tues.–Sun. 9–7.

Hôtel de Bernuy.

Now part of a school, this mansion, around the corner from the Ensemble Conventuel des Jacobins, was built for Jean de Bernuy in the 16th century, the period when Toulouse was at its most prosperous. De Bernuy made his fortune exporting woad, the dark-blue dye that brought unprecedented wealth to the city; his success is reflected in the use of stone (a costly material in this region of brick) and by the octagonal stair tower. You may wander freely around the courtyard or visit it on one of the themed city tours (€7.50–€9.50) offered at various times daily by the tourist office. | Rue Gambetta.

Musée des Augustins (Augustinian Museum, Musée des Beaux-Arts).

One of Europe’s finest collections of Romanesque sculpture and religious paintings can be seen inside the sacristy, chapter house, and cloisters of a former Augustinian convent. Built around the same time as the Louvre, the medieval Mediterranean-Gothic architectural complex is vast, and—like the Louvre—it contains many treasures from Napoléon’s conquests. | 21 rue de Metz | 05–61–22–21–82 | www.augustins.org | Museum €4 | Thurs.–Tues. 10–6, Wed. 10–9 | Closed Christmas wk.

Musée du Vieux Toulouse (Museum of Old Toulouse).

This museum is worthwhile for the building itself as much as for its collection of Toulouse memorabilia, paintings, sculptures, and documents. Be sure to note the ground-floor fireplace and wooden ceiling. | 7 rue du May | 05–62–27–11–50 | €2.50 | Apr.–Nov., Mon.–Sat. 2–6; guided tours Wed. and Fri.

Musée St-Raymond.

The city’s archaeological museum, next to the Basilica of St-Sernin, has an extensive collection of imperial Roman busts, as well as ancient coins, vases, and jewelry. It’s second only to the Louvre in the richness of its sculptures and Gallo-Roman vestiges. | 1 Ter Pl. St-Sernin | 05–61–22–31–44 | www.saintraymond.toulouse.fr | €4 | Oct.–June, daily 10–6; July–Sept., daily 10–7.

Place de la Daurade.

Set beside the river, Place de la Daurade ranks among the city’s nicest squares. The corner of the quay offers a romantic view of the Garonne, the Hôtel Dieu on the other bank, and the pretty Pont Neuf. TIP A stop at Café des Artistes is almost obligatory.

Place du Capitole.

Lined with shops and cafés, this vast, open square in the city center is a good spot to get your bearings, soak up some sun, or peruse the outdoor markets held here weekly. A parking garage is conveniently underneath.

Worth Noting

Ancien Collège de Périgord (Old Périgord College).

The wooden gallery-like structure on the street side of the courtyard is the oldest remnant of a 14th-century residential college. | 56–58 rue du Taur.

Chapelle des Carmélites.

All that remains of the Carmelite convent that once stood here is its chapel, begun in 1622 by King Louis XIII and Anne of Austria. Look up to admire the remarkable painted vaulted ceiling. | 1 rue de Périgord | Free | May–Sept., 9:30–1 and 2–6; Oct.–Apr., 10–1 and 2–5 | Closed Mon.

Château d’Eau.

This 19th-century water tower at the far end of the Pont Neuf, originally used to store water and build water pressure, is now the oldest public institution in France dedicated to photographic exhibits. It was built in 1822, the same year Nicéphore Nièpce created the first permanent photographic images. | 1 pl. Laganne | 05–61–77–09–40 | €2.50 | Tues.–Sun. 1–7.

Hôtel d’Arnault Brucelles.

One of the tallest and best of Toulouse’s 49 towers can be found at this 16th-century mansion. | 19 rue des Changes.

Hôtel d’Astorg et St-Germain.

This 16th-century mansion is notable for its lovely Romanesque wooden stairways and galleries and for its top-floor mirande, a wooden balcony. | 16 rue des Changes.

Hôtel Delpech.

Look for the 17th-century biblical inscriptions carved in Latin in the stone under the windows. | 20 rue des Changes.

Marché Victor Hugo (Victor Hugo Market).

This hangarlike indoor market, where you’re sure to find the ingredients for almost any French recipe, is always a refreshing stop. Consider eating lunch at one of the seven upstairs restaurants.Chez Attila, just to the left at the top of the stairs, is among the best. | Pl. Victor Hugo | 05–61–22–76–92 | www.marchevictorhugo.fr | Tues.–Sun. sunrise–1.

Notre-Dame de la Daurade.

The 18th-century Notre-Dame de la Daurade overlooks the Garonne. The church’s name—Daurade comes from doré (gilt)—refers to the golden reflection given off by mosaics decorating the fifth-century temple to the Virgin Mary that once stood on this site. | 1 pl. de la Daurade | 05–61–21–38–32 | Daily 8:30–7.

Notre-Dame du Taur.

Built on the spot where St. Saturnin (or Sernin), the martyred bishop of Toulouse, was dragged to his death in AD 250 by a rampaging bull, this church is famous for its cloche-mur, or wall tower. The wall looks like an extension of the facade and has inspired many similar versions throughout the region. | 12 rue du Taur | 05–61–21–80–45 | Weekdays 2–7, Sat. 10–7:30, Sun. 9:45–12:45; closed Sun. in July and Aug.

Pont Neuf (New Bridge).

Despite its name, the graceful span of the Pont Neuf is hardly new: it opened to traffic in 1632. Remains of the old bridge—one arch and the lighter-color outline on the brick wall of the Hôtel-Dieu (hospital)—are visible across the river. The 16th-century hospital was used for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. Just over the bridge, on a clear day in winter, the snowcapped peaks of the Pyrénées can often be seen in the distance.

SOUTH OF RUE DE METZ

South of Rue de Metz you’ll discover the Cathédral St-Étienne, the antiques district along rue Perchepinte, and town houses and palaces on Rue Ninau, Rue Ozenne, and Rue de la Dalbade—all among the top sights in Toulouse.

Cathédrale St-Étienne.

The cathedral was erected in stages between the 13th and the 17th centuries, though the nave and choir languished unfinished because of a lack of funds. A fine collection of 16th- and 17th-century tapestries traces the life of St. Stephen. In front of the cathedral is the city’s oldest fountain, dating from the 16th century. | Pl. St-Étienne | 05–61–52–03–82 | Mon.–Sat. 8–7, Sun. 9–7.

Hôtel de Clary.

One of the finest mansions on Rue de la Dalbade is also known as the Hôtel de Pierre because of its unusually solid pierre (stone) construction, which was considered a sign of great wealth at the time. The ornately sculpted facade was designed by Nicolas Bachelier in the 16th century. | 25 rue de la Dalbade.

Hôtel du Vieux Raisin.

Officially the Hôtel Beringuier Maynier, this building was dubbed the Vieux Raisin (Old Grape) after the early name of the street and even earlier inn. Built in the 15th and 16th centuries, the mansion has an octagonal tower, male and female figures on the facade, and allegorical sculptures of the three stages of life—infancy, maturity, and old age—over the windows to the left. | 36 rue de Languedoc.

Musée Paul Dupuy.

This museum, dedicated to medieval applied arts, is housed in the Hôtel Pierre Besson, a 17th-century mansion. | 13 rue de la Pleau | 05–61–14–65–50 | €3 | Oct.–May, Wed.–Mon. 10–5; June–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

Notre-Dame de la Dalbade.

Originally called Sancta Maria de Ecclesia Alba in Langue d’Oc and Ste-Marie de l’Église Blanche in French (alba and blanche both meaning “white”), the name of this church evolved into “de Albata” and later “Dalbade.” Ironically, one of its outstanding features today is the colorful 19th-century ceramic tympanum over the Renaissance door. | Pl. de la Dalbade | 05–61–52–68–90.

Eating Well

Dining in France’s Southwest is a rougher, heartier, and more rustic version of classic Mediterranean cooking—the peppers are sliced thick, the garlic and olive oil used with a heavier hand, the herbs crushed and served au naturel.

Expect cuisine de marché (market-based cooking), savory seasonal dishes based on the culinary trinity of the south—garlic, onion, and tomato—straight from the village market. Languedoc is known for powerful and strongly seasoned cooking.

Garlic and goose fat are generously used in traditional recipes. Be sure to try some of the renowned foie gras (goose or duck liver) and confit de canard (preserved duck). The most famous regional dish is cassoulet, a succulent white-bean stew with confit d’oie (preserved goose), duck, lamb, or a mixture of all three.

Keep your eyes open for festive cargolades—Catalan for huge communal barbecues starting off with thousands of buttery-garlic snails roasted on open grills and eaten with your fingers, followed by cured bacon and lamb cutlets and vats (and vats) of local wine. In the Roussillon and along the Mediterranean coast from Collioure up through Perpignan to Narbonne, the prevalent Catalan cuisine features olive-oil-based cooking and sauces such as the classic aioli (crushed and emulsified garlic and olive oil). When you’re on the coast, it’s fish, of course, often cooked over a wood fire.

WHERE TO EAT

Bistrot de l’Étoile.

BISTRO | Don’t let the dismal backstreet exterior put you off: Bistrot de l’Étoile is a delightfully retro 1960s pub that promises fast service, a smiling staff, and a great choice of dishes on the blackboard menu (including excellent grilled meats cooked on the fire in the center of the restaurant). The homemade desserts are great, too. | Average main: €23 | 6 rue de l’Étoile | 05–61–63–13–43 | www.bistrotdeletoile.fr | Reservations essential | Closed weekends, 3 wks in Aug., 1 wk in May.

Brasserie Flo “Les Beaux Arts.”BRASSERIE | Overlooking the Pont Neuf, this elegant brasserie is idyllic at sunset, as artists Ingres and Matisse—who were regulars—knew all too well; watch the colors change over the Garonne from a quayside window or a sidewalk table while enjoying seafood sauerkraut with champagne or wild sea bass with salmon tartare. The kitchen is open until 11:30 pm on Friday and Saturday (a rarity in France), which is perfect if you want to eat out after a show. | Average main: €27 | 1 quai de la Daurade | 05–61–21–12–12 | www.brasserielesbeauxarts.com.

Chez Emile.

FRENCH | With a great location and lovely summer terrace, this is the place to savor such regional specialties as cassoulet —the locals love it, which speaks volumes here in the heart of cassoulet country. | Average main: €30 | 13 pl. St-Georges | 05–61–21–05–56 | www.restaurant-emile.com | July and Aug., closed Sun., no lunch Mon.; Sept.–June, closed Sun. and Mon.; closed 2 wks at Christmas.

Jardins de l’Opéra.

FRENCH | Stéphane Tournié’s elegant restaurant next to the Grand Hôtel de l’Opéra is a perennial favorite. Intimate rooms and a covered terrace around a little pond give it an undeniable allure, though some may find the grand flourishes—glass ceilings and mammoth chandeliers—a little too, well, operatic. Inspired by the seasons, the food is gastronomical local fare with added nouvelle and Gascon touches. Seductive four-course prix-fixe menus are available, with prices starting at €30. TIP If you’re looking for something a little lower key, consider the adjacent Grand Cafe de l’Opera. | Average main: €33 | 1 pl. du Capitole | 05–61–23–07–76 | www.lesjardinsdelopera.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., and 1 wk in Jan.

Le Bon Vivre.

FRENCH | This bustling bistro, brightened with Jean Vier-designed striped Basque tablecloths, fills up at lunch and dinner every day. Quick, unpretentious, and always good, the house specialties include such dishes as cod, cassoulet, and wild boar in season (September–March). TIP If you forgot to book, ask if you can wait for a table with a drink at the bistro’s salon next door. | Average main: €20 | 15 bis, pl. Wilson | 05–61–23–07–17 | www.lebonvivre.com.

L’Empereur de Huê.

VIETNAMESE | Occupying a sleek contemporary space on a bohemian back street, this Vietnamese eatery is helmed by a hip female chef who has drawn national attention for her style in and out of the kitchen. Banana flower and duck salad, citronella beef, and ginger-orange macaroons are just a few of her novel creations—but you can only enjoy them at dinner (lunch isn’t served). TIP Annual closure varies year to year, so call first if you’re coming in winter. | Average main: €26 | 17 rue Couteliers | 05–61–53–55–72 | www.empereurdehue.com | Closed Tues.; no lunch.

Les curieux gâteaux de Tata Bidule.

BAKERY | If you need a pick-me-up, head to this gourmet cupcake-and-coffee shop with Wi-Fi and a choice of inside or street-side tables. The homage to pastel pastries is run by three crafty women who claim their traveling great-aunt discovered the Anglo-Saxon cupcake after her circus act won her an invitation to tea with Queen Elizabeth. Try the violette, black tea, and royal icing cupcake or the chocolate and hot red pepper with your espresso. Hot chocolate and fresh-squeezed seasonal juices are also available. Though old-school in style, this shop is au courant in that it uses no additives or preservatives and has gluten-free options. Best news: it’s open on Sunday. | Average main: €5 | 14 rue Temponières | www.tatabidule.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Michel Sarran.

MODERN FRENCH | The post-nouvelle haven for what is arguably Toulouse’s finest dining departs radically from the traditional stick-to-your-ribs cuisine of southwest France, instead favoring Mediterranean formulas suited to the rhythms and reasons of modern living. The ambience is contemporary sophistication expertly blended with warmth, and the food is light but flavorful. Delicacies like foie gras soup with Belon oysters or wild salmon in green curry sauce prove that Chef Michel Sarran’s two Michelin stars are well deserved. TIP Don’t count on a Saturday night fête here. The restaurant is closed weekends—the obvious mark of a sought-after chef who is free to choose his own hours. | Average main: €50 | 21 bd. A. Duportal | 05–61–12–32–33 | www.michel-sarran.com | Reservations essential | Closed weekends; no lunch Wed.; closed Aug.

WHERE TO STAY

Grand Hôtel de l’Opéra.

HOTEL | Little wonder the likes of Deneuve, Pavarotti, and Aznavour favored this downtown doyen, for its keynote grandeur is obvious the moment you step into the lobby, complete with soaring columns, Second Empire bergères, and sofas of blue tasseled velvet. Happily, this former 17th-century convent has an old-world feel but comes with 21st-century amenities. Guest rooms—the best of which overlook the grand square outside—are plush, with rich fabrics, painted headboards, and the most chaleureuse (cozy and warm) colors. Even though you’re on busy Place du Capitole, this hotel is a tranquil oasis. Pros: ideally situated on main square; within five minutes of the train station. Cons: splendor and a certain reserved professionalism rank higher than intimacy. | Rooms from: €230 | 1 pl. du Capitole | 05–61–21–82–66 | www.grand-hotel-opera.com | 44 rooms, 6 suites | No meals.

Grand Hôtel d’Orléans.

HOTEL | Although it’s in a slightly sketchy neighborhood, this picturesque former stagecoach relay station—built in 1867—still retains a certain 19th-century charm and is home to a good restaurant. Four floors of wooden balustrades overhung with plants look down over a central patio. Guest rooms are small but recently renovated. Pros: fine restaurant; close to train and bus stations. Cons: surrounding neighborhood is a little dicey. | Rooms from: €75 | 72 rue Bayard | 05–61–62–98–47 | www.grand-hotel-orleans.fr | 56 rooms | No meals.

Hôtel Albert I.

HOTEL | The building may seem undistinguished, but its cheerful guest rooms are spacious (especially the older ones with giant fireplaces), and the location is central to everything; it’s the personable owner, however, who really sets this hotel apart. Pros: ideal location; warm and helpful service. Cons: parking can be arranged but the lot is difficult to find; planned renovations may be disruptive. | Rooms from: €95 | 8 rue Rivals | 05–61–21–17–91 | www.hotel-albert1.com | 47 rooms | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Garonne.

HOTEL | In the thick of the most Toulousain part of town, next to the Pont Neuf and the former fish market (although somewhat far from the city center), this is a small but hyper-stylish spot with contemporary perks—like gourmet takeout delivered to your room on request. Modern guest rooms are strikingly decorated in dramatic red and black, with rich wood trim; the best one has a view of the Garonne. Wake to espresso service in your room or dine in the sleek salon at extra charge. Pros: hip design; chic bohemian neighborhood with eclectic shops and restaurants nearby; helpful staff. Cons: a hike to the city center; lobby and rooms feel a bit small. | Rooms from: €180 | 22 descente de la Halle aux Poissons | 05–34–31–94–80 | www.hotelgaronne.net | 11 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.

Hôtel Royal Wilson.

HOTEL | With a quiet city-center location across from the Théâtre National, this two-star hotel—one of the best deals in Toulouse—attracts theater professionals, business travelers, and garden-variety tourists. Rooms are basic and spacious for the price, with clean white walls, vintage Formica furniture, and artful accents purposely blended with a few proper antique pieces. Ask for one of the five that open onto the pretty Moorish courtyard for an authentic l’aire du sud feel. Pros: great central location; free in-room breakfast service. Cons: some bathrooms don’t have wall-mounted shower heads; though unobtrusive, some color schemes might not appeal (think pink). | Rooms from: €59 | 6 rue Labéda | www.hotelroyalwilson-toulouse.com | 27 rooms | Breakfast.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Toulouse is jammed with small, independent concert halls and theaters, most of them covered in this mini-mag. As for cultural highlights, so many opera singers perform at the Théâtre du Capitole and the Halle aux Grains that the city is known as the capitale du bel canto. The opera season lasts from October until late May, with occasional summer presentations as well. A wide variety of dance companies perform in Toulouse: the Ballet du Capitole stages classical ballets; Ballet-Théâtre Joseph Russillo and Compagnie Jean-Marc Matos put on modern-dance performances. The Centre National Choréographique de Toulouse, in the St-Cyprien quarter, welcomes international companies each year. If you want to stay up late—as many do in Toulouse—grab a copy of the free chronicle Clutch found in any hotel lobby.

Bar Basque.

You’ll find Bar Basque among the many watering holes around Place St-Pierre. | 7 pl. St-Pierre | 05–61–21–55–64.

Chez Ton Ton.

A somewhat raucous crowd is drawn to this very popular Place St-Pierre dive. | 14 pl. St-Pierre | 05–61–21–89–54.

Halle Aux Grains.

Home of l’Orchestre du Capitole, the hexagonal-shaped Halle Aux Grains ranks among the best music auditoriums in Europe. | Pl. Dupuy | 05–61–63–13–13 | www.onct.mairie-toulouse.fr.

La Bonita.

Brazilian guitarists perform at La Bonita, a festive restaurant musical. | 112 Grand-Rue St-Michel | 05–62–26–36–45 | www.labonita.fr.

Le Bijou.

If you don’t mind a short bus ride across the Garonne, take Line 12 to the front of a small concert hall and restaurant filled with an eclectic, all-ages crowd; most are regulars who come for the great bistro menu and a musical line-up featuring top Toulouse acts. | 123 av. de Muret | 05–61–42–95–07 | www.le-bijou.net.

Le Bistro Étienne.

Near the Cathedral of St-Étienne, Le Bistro Étienne is a top spot for the third-Thursday-in-November Beaujolais Nouveau blowout. | 5 rue Riguepels | 09–61–28–36–41.

Le Mandala.

Be sure to stop by Le Mandala for a bit of the bubbly and some of the best jazz in town. | 23 rue des Amidonniers | 05–61–21–10–05 | www.lemandala.com.

Le Purple.

Ready to dance? Le Purple is a hot multispace disco. | 2 rue Castellane | 05–62–73–04–67 | www.purepurple.fr.

Les Terrasses de Saint-Rome.

If you’re looking for a pretty terrace for a late dinner (served until 11), try Les Terrasses de Saint-Rome. | 39 rue St-Rome | 05–62–27–06–06 | terrasses.saint.rome.free.fr.

Melting Pot.

This pub lives up to its name, with young people from around the world crowding the bar. | 26 bd. de Strasbourg | 05–61–62–82–98 | www.toulouseweb.com/meltingpot.

Père Louis.

Begin your night on the town at Père Louis, an old-fashioned winery (and restaurant), with barrels used as tables. | 45 rue des Tourneurs | 05–61–21–33–45.

SHOPPING

Toulouse is a chic design center for clothing and artifacts of all kinds. Rue St-Rome, Rue Croix Baragnon, Rue des Changes, and Rue d’Alsace-Lorraine are all good shopping streets. For artful vintage finds look for the word “friperie” on store fronts along Rue Peyrolières.

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Albi | Cordes-sur-Ciel

Along the banks of the Tarn to the northeast of Toulouse, Albi rivals Toulouse in rose colors. West from Albi, along the river, the land opens up to the rural Gers département, home of the heady brandy, Armagnac, and heart of the former dukedom of Gascony. Studded with châteaux—from simple medieval fortresses to ambitious classical residences—and with tiny, isolated village jewels like Cordes-sur-Ciel, the Gers is an easy place to fall in love with, or in.

ALBI

75 km (47 miles) northeast of Toulouse.

Toulouse-Lautrec’s native Albi is a busy, beautifully preserved provincial market town. In its heyday Albi was a major center for the Cathars, members of a dualistic and ascetic religious movement critical of the hierarchical and worldly ways of the Catholic Church.

Getting Here

About 18 trains daily (1 hr, €15) run between Toulouse and Albi’s main station on place Stalingrad (in a somewhat isolated part of town). Buses also make the trip from Toulouse (1½ hrs, €13). In summer months, you can catch infrequent buses to adjoining towns, including Cordes-sur-Ciel (1 hr) from the Albi bus station on place Jean Jaurès.

Visitor Information

Albi Tourist Office. | Pl. Ste-Cecile | 05–63–36–36–00 | www.albi-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Cathédrale Ste-Cécile.

One of the most unusual and dazzling churches in France, the huge Cathédrale Ste-Cécile, with its intimidating cliff-like walls, resembles a cross between a castle and an ocean liner. It was constructed as a symbol of the Church’s return to power after the 13th-century crusade that wiped out the Cathars. The interior is an astonishingly ornate contrast to the massive austerity of the outer walls. Maestro Donnelli and a team of 16th-century Italian artists (most of the Emilian school) covered every possible surface with religious scenes and brightly colored patterns—it remains the largest group of Italian Renaissance paintings in any French church. On the west wall you can find one of the most splendid organs in the world, built in 1734 and outfitted with 3,500 pipes, which loom over a celebrated fresco of the Last Judgment. | Pl. Ste-Cécile | 05–63–43–23–43 | June–Sept., daily 9–6:30; Oct.–May, daily 9–noon and 2–6:30.

Cloître St-Salvi.

From the central square and parking area in front of the Palais de la Berbie, walk to the 11th- to 15th-century college and Cloître de St-Salvy. | Rue Maries | Daily 7 am–8 pm.

Maison du Vieil Albi (Old Albi House).

Next, take a look at Albi’s finest restored traditional house, the Maison du Vieil Albi. | Corner of Rue de la Croix-Blanche and Puech-Bérenguer.

Maison Natale de Toulouse-Lautrec (Hôtel du Bosc).

Real fans of Toulouse-Lautrec may want snap a photo of his birthplace, the Maison Natale de Toulouse-Lautrec, which remains a private residence. | 14 rue Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Toulouse-Lautrec.

In a garden designed by the renowned André Le Nôtre, creator of the “green geometries” at Versailles, the landmark Palais de la Berbie (Berbie Palace), between the cathedral and the Pont Vieux (Old Bridge), is the setting for this exceptional museum. Built in 1265 as a residence for Albi’s archbishops, the fortresslike structure was transformed in 1922 into a museum to honor Albi’s most celebrated son, Belle Époque painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864–1901). Toulouse-Lautrec left Albi for Paris in 1882 and soon became famous for his colorful, tumultuous evocations of the lifestyle of bohemian glamour found in and around Montmartre. Son of a wealthy and aristocratic family (Lautrec is a village not far from Toulouse), the young Henri suffered from a genetic bone deficiency and broke both legs as a child, which stunted his growth. But it was the artist’s fascination with the decadent side of life that led him to an early grave at the age of 37. The museum’s collection of artworks—more than a thousand, representing the world’s largest Toulouse-Lautrec corpus—has been deftly organized into themed rooms, including galleries devoted to some of his greatest portraits and scenes from Paris’s maisons closées (brothels), with paintings stylishly hung amid the palace’s brick ogival arches. There are other masterworks here, including paintings by Georges de la Tour and Francesco Guardi. | Palais de la Berbie, off Pl. Ste-Cécile | 05–63–49–48–70 | www.musee-toulouse-lautrec.com | €8, gardens free | June 21–Sept. 30, daily 9–6; Oct.–Dec, Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5:30; Jan., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5; Feb. and Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5:30; Apr. and May, daily 10–noon and 2–6; June 1–20, daily 9–noon and 2–6.

Place du Vigan.

Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, two streets west of the Maison Natale, leads past the Mairie (City Hall), with its hanging globes of flowers, to Albi’s main square, Place du Vigan. Take a break in one of the two main cafés, Le Pontie or Le Vigan. | Pl. du Vigan.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Le Jardin des Quatre Saisons.

FRENCH | A good-value menu and superb fish dishes are the reasons for this restaurant’s excellent reputation. Chef-owner Georges Bermond’s house specialties—which change seasonally—include pot au feu (stew) of the sea and suprême de sandre (a freshwater fish cooked in wine). Though the traditional setting could use some spunk, the warm service and correcte (fair) bill make up for any old-fashioned ambience. | Average main: €17 | 5 rue de la Pompe | 05–63–60–77–76 | www.lejardindesquatresaisons.fr | Closed Mon., no dinner Sun.

Hostellerie St-Antoine.

HOTEL | Founded in 1734, this eminently comfortable hotel in the center of town is one of the oldest in France and has been run by the same family for five generations (note the Toulouse-Lautrec sketches given to the owner’s great-grandfather, a friend of the painter). Modern renovations have brought everything up to speed in terms of comfort. Room 30 has a pleasing view of the garden; pristine white furnishings give it a spacious feel. Pros: slightly off the beaten path in a quiet area; friendly staff. Cons: breakfast is very expensive; overall, doesn’t quite live up to its four-star rating. | Rooms from: €147 | 17 rue St-Antoine | 05–63–54–04–04 | www.hotel-saint-antoine-albi.com | 41 rooms, 3 suites | Closed 2 wks in Dec. | No meals.

Hôtel Chiffre.

HOTEL | A former stagecoach inn, this centrally located townhouse has fairly lackluster rooms and a hearty restaurant all overlooking a cozy garden. The eatery (closed weekends) serves belly-warming regional dishes such as foie gras, duck breast, and lamb in a parsley-and-garlic sauce. Pros: restaurant is good and a great value. Cons: foyer and rooms are sparsely decorated; some beds need to be replaced. | Rooms from: €78 | 50 rue Séré-de-Rivières | 05–63–48–58–48 | www.hotelchiffre.com | 39 rooms | Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Jan. | No meals.

SHOPPING

Around Place Ste-Cécile are numerous clothing, book, music, and antiques shops.

Alby Foie Gras.

The finest foie gras in town is found at Alby Foie Gras. | 29 rue Mariès | 05–63–38–21–33.

Flea and antiques market.

A Saturday-morning flea and antiques market is held in the Halle du Castelviel. | Pl. du Castelviel.

L’Artisan Chocolatier (Chocolatier Michel Belin).

Michel Belin’s chocolate delights are deservedly famous. | 4 rue Dr-Camboulives, on Pl. du Vigan | 05–63–54–18–46.

Produce markets.

Albi has many produce markets: one takes place Tuesday to Sunday in the market halls near the cathedral; another is held on Tuesday and Saturday mornings at Place Fernand Pelloutier. An all-organic market runs Tuesday afternoons at Place Fernand Pelloutier.

Crusading Cathars

Scorched by the southern heat, the dusty ruins high atop cliffs in southern Languedoc were once the refuges of the Cathars, the notoriously ascetic religious group persecuted out of existence by the Catholic Church in the 12th and 13th centuries. The Cathars inhabited an area ranging from present-day Germany all the way to the Atlantic Ocean. Adherents to this dualistic doctrine of material abnegation and spiritual revelation abstained from fleshly pleasures in all forms, forgoing procreation and the consumption of animal products. In some cases, they even committed suicide by starvation; diminishing the amount of flesh in the world was the ultimate way to foil the forces of evil. However, not thrilled by a religion that did not “go forth and multiply” (and that saw no need to pay taxes to the Church), Pope Innocent III launched the Albigensian Crusade (Albi was one of the major Cathar strongholds), and Pope Gregory IX rounded up the stragglers during a period of inquisition starting in 1233. All these forces had been given scandalously free rein by the French court, which allowed dukes and counts from northern France to build bastides (fortified medieval towns built along a strict grid plan) through the area to entrap the peasantry.

The counts were more than happy to oblige the pope with a little hounding, an inquisition or two, and some burnings at the stake. Entire towns were judged to be guilty of heresy and inhabitants by the dozens were thrown to their deaths from high town walls. The persecuted “pure” soon took refuge in the Pyrénées Mountains, where they survived for 100 years. Now all that remains of this unhappy sect are their former hideouts, with tour groups visiting the vacant stone staircases and roofless chapels of haunted places like Peyrepertuse and Quéribus. For more information, log on to www.cathar.info or go hiking with medievalist Ingrid Sparbier (www.guide-sud-france.com).

CORDES-SUR-CIEL

25 km (15 miles) northwest of Albi, 80 km (50 miles) northeast of Toulouse.

A must-stop for many travelers, the picture-book hilltop town of Cordes-sur-Ciel appears to hover in midair when mists steal up from the Cérou Valley below, hence the name—sur-ciel means “in the sky/heaven.” It was established in 1222 by Count Raymond VII of Toulouse as a redoubt after the Occitan wars waged against the region’s Cathars; and its conical hill is riddled with caves that served as granaries during times of siege. Today you may find Cordes-sur-Ciel besieged by summertime tourists, who come to admire well-preserved buildings (like the 14th-century St. Michel church) and to peruse plentiful shops and markets. The town is particularly busy during the annual Fêtes Médiévales du Grand Fauconnier (www.grandfauconnier.com) in mid-July—a three-day blowout, replete with an artisanal fair and costumed Bal Médiéval.

Getting Here

In July and August, a bus makes the 25-km (16-mile) trip from Albi to the bottom of Cordes twice daily. Other months, you can take the train to Cordes-Vindrac from Toulouse (1¼ hrs) or Albi (1 hr), and then proceed the remaining 3 km (2 miles) by bike, taxi, or foot. There’s also a year-round bus from Albi to Cordes-Vindrac. Note that traffic is banned in the upper town in summer and parking nearby is virtually impossible.

Visitor Information

Cordes-sur-Ciel Tourist Office. | 38–42 Grand Rue Raimond VII | 05–63–56–00–52 | www.cordessurciel.fr.

EXPLORING

Grande-rue Haute.

When peace arrived in the late Middle Ages, the town prospered and many rich residents built pink-sandstone Gothic-style houses—a sizable number of which still line the main street, Grande-rue Haute (also called Rue Droite). Today, many are occupied by painters, sculptors, weavers, leatherworkers, and even creators of illuminated manuscripts, whose ateliers and stores lure the summer crowds. | Grande-rue Haute.

Musée Charles-Portail.

The small Musée Charles-Portail has relics from the town’s medieval past, plus items uncovered during excavations of the 372-foot-deep Cordes Well. | 1 rue St Michel | 05–63–80–51–72 | €2.50 | July and Aug., Wed.–Mon. 2–6; Easter–June, Sept. and Oct., weekends 2–6.

Musée Les Arts du Sucre et du Chocolat.

For proof that life is indeed sweet in Cordes-sur-Ciel, visit this two-room museum dedicated to sugar and chocolate. It showcases the confectionary creations of noted chef Yves Thuriès. | 33 Grand Rue Raimond VII | 05–63–56–18–90 | artdusucre.fr | €4 | Late Mar.–early June, Wed.–Sun. 10–7; early June–early Sept., daily 10–7; early Sept.–Oct., Wed.–Sun. 10–7.

WHERE TO STAY

L’Hostellerie du Vieux Cordes.

HOTEL | One of famed chocolatier Yves Thuriès’s lovely Cordes hotels, this 13th-century house, built around a spectacular courtyard dotted with tiny tables and shaded by a magnificent 300-year-old wisteria, has stylishly decorated guest rooms and a fine onsite eatery. Guest salons have tone-on-tone color schemes and antique accents. Downstairs, the bistro Tonin’ty has a 19th-century vibe, with delicious menus crafted around salmon and duck by Thuriès. Pros: some rooms have views of the valley (book well in advance). Cons: cramped Room 4 should be avoided; uphill hike to the hotel from parking area. | Rooms from: €68 | Rue St-Michel | 05–63–53–79–20 | www.vieuxcordes.fr | 19 rooms | Closed Jan.–mid-Feb. | No meals.

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Carcassonne | Perpignan | Prades | Vernet-les-Bains | Céret | Collioure | Salses | Narbonne | Béziers | Montpellier

One of the most diverse backdrops in France, Languedoc-Roussillon skirts the Mediterranean coast southward toward Spain where the Pyrénées plunge dramatically into the sea. The southern half of the region, Roussillon was long dominated by Spanish Catalonia’s House of Aragon—which explains why the area is also known as French Catalonia. Historically rooted in agricultural pursuits, Roussillon’s varied landscape allows for citrus and cherry trees, while the snowcapped Pic du Canigó towers over palm trees in the valley. Olive groves and vineyards thrive on arid hillsides inland and earthy cheeses come from herds in the bordering high mountains. Beaches stretch down the coast to Cerbère at the Spanish border. Immortalized by Matisse and Picasso, this strip is known as the Côte Vermeille and attracts droves of European sun worshippers (plus aspiring painters) to its craggy shoreline. Heading northward, Languedoc begins around the ancient Roman capitol of Narbonne and extends to the region’s hub, the elegant city of Montpellier. The Canal du Midi flows through the vineyard-laden region to Le Littoral Languedocien (the Languedoc Coast), famous for fresh Bouzigues oysters and resident flamingos. Life in Languedoc-Roussillon is distinctly relaxed and casual, so you’ll probably be taking afternoon siestas before you know it.

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CARCASSONNE

88 km (55 miles) southeast of Toulouse, 105 km (65 miles) south of Albi.

Poised atop a hill overlooking lush green countryside and the Aude River, Carcassonne’s fortified upper town, known as La Cité, looks lifted from the pages of a storybook—literally, perhaps, as its circle of towers and battlements is said to be the setting for Charles Perrault’s classic tale Puss in Boots. With its turrets and castellated walls, it appeals to children and those with a penchant for the Middle Ages. The lower, newer part of the city is the ville basse, where you’ll find the train station, the bus terminal, and a smattering of sights (most notably the Musée des Beaux-Arts).

Note that unless you’re staying at a hotel in La Cité, you are not allowed to enter it with your vehicle; you must pay to park in the lot across the road from the drawbridge. Alternately, from the train station you can take a cab, hop a navette shuttle bus, or make the 30-minute walk up to La Cité.

Getting Here

Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) provides regular air service from London, Dublin and several other European cities; a €5 airport shuttle transports passengers to the train station (beside the Canal du Midi, on Avenue du Maréchal Joffre), stopping at La Cité en route. Due to the high volume of visitors, many trains arrive here—16 from Narbonne and 15 from Toulouse alone. Admittedly the trip in by rail is scenic and romantic, but traveling by bus to Carcassonne’s Boulevard de Varsovie station tends to be cheaper and faster.

Visitor Information

Carcassonne Tourist Office. | 28 rue de Verdun | 04–68–10–24–30 | www.carcassonne-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | La Cité.

Legend has it that Charlemagne laid siege to the original settlement here early in the 9th century, only to be outdone by one Dame Carcas—a clever woman who boldly fed the last of the city’s wheat to a pig in full view of the would-be conqueror. Thinking this indicated endless food supplies, Charlemagne promptly decamped, and the exuberant townsfolk named their city after her. During the 13th century, Louis IX (Saint Louis) and his son Philip the Fair strengthened Carcassonne’s fortifications—so much so that the town came to be considered inviolable by marauding armies and was duly nicknamed “the virgin of Languedoc.”

A town that can never be taken in battle is often abandoned, however, and for centuries thereafter Carcassonne remained under a Sleeping Beauty spell. It was only awakened during the 19th-century craze for chivalry and the Gothic style, when, in 1835, the historic-monument inspector (and poet) Prosper Mérimée arrived. He was so appalled by the dilapidated state of the walls that he commissioned the architect, painter, and historian Viollet-le-Duc (who found his greatest fame restoring Paris’s Notre-Dame) to undertake repairs. Today the 1844 renovation is considered almost as much a work of art as the medieval town itself. No matter if La Cité is more Viollet than authentic; it still remains one of the most romantic sights in France.

There’s no mistaking the fact that 21st-century tourism has taken over here. La Cité’s streets are lined with souvenir shops, crafts boutiques, restaurants, and tiny “museums” (a Cathars Museum, a Hat Museum), all out to make a buck and rarely worth that. But you should still plan on spending at least a couple of hours exploring the walls and peering over the battlements across sun-drenched plains toward the distant Pyrénées. Staying overnight within the ancient walls lets you savor the timeless atmosphere after the daytime hordes are gone. | La Cité | Carcassonne

Château Comtal.

This 12th-century château is the last inner bastion of La Cité. It has a drawbridge and a museum, the Musée Lapidaire where medieval stone sculptures unearthed in the area are on display. | La Cité | Carcassonne | 04–68–11–70–70 | www.carcassonne.monuments-nationaux.fr | €8.50 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9:30–6:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 9:30–5.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

The real draw in the ville basse, this museum houses a nice collection of porcelain, 17th- and 18th-century Flemish paintings, and works by local artists—including some stirring battle scenes by Jacques Gamelin (1738–1803). | 1 rue de Verdun, Ville Basse | 04–68–77–73–70 | Free | Mid-Sept.–mid-June, Tues.–Sat. 10–noon and 2–6; mid-June–mid-Sept., daily 10–6.

WHERE TO EAT

Bloc G.

MODERN FRENCH | Just outside the upper city walls, this all-white urbanesque restaurant and wine bar, run by three food-and-design-savvy sisters, offers a reality check after the touristic, turreted streets of La Cité. The blackboard menu highlights experimental touches to classic dishes (like sautéed foie gras in a Thai broth) and helps attract a sophisticated, casual clientele. If returning to the crowds leaves you feeling claustrophobic, consider one of the five loft-style guest rooms in the upstairs inn—each with enough space for a full-on yoga practice. TIP Also ask about sister Delphine’s B&B not far away. | Average main: €18 | 112 rue Barbacane | 04–68–47–58–20 | www.bloc-g.com | Closed Sun. and Mon. in winter.

Le Puits du Tresor.

MODERN FRENCH | At the foot of the famous Cathar castle of Lastours, in an old textile factory above the Orbiel river, this Michelin-starred treat comes as something of a surprise. Headed by the talented Jean-Marc Boyer, the restaurant serves inventive and artistic néo-classique meals inspired by the seasons and based on local ingredients. TIP Strapped for cash? You can always eat at Boyer’s Auberge du Diable au Thym, right next door, for a fraction of the price. | Average main: €45 | Rte. des Châteaux, Lastours, 12 km (8 miles) north of Carcassonne | 04–68–77–50–24 | www.lepuitsdutresor.fr | Closed Mon., Tues., no dinner Sun. Closed Jan. 3–Jan. 18 and Feb. 28–Mar. 3.

Sire de Cabaret.

FRENCH | Nestled beneath the château of Roquefère, an unspoiled village fleuri in the Cabardés region of the Montagne Noire, this regional favorite dishes up amazing steaks à la Languedocienne and bottomless plates of homemade paté and charcuterie. Cooked over wood fires, many of the meat-centered dishes are accompanied by mushrooms picked from nearby mountains by the genial chef. This place is worth visiting as much for its rustic charm as for its great food. In warm weather, ask for a table on the terrace amid hills cloaked with oak and chestnut trees. TIP The owners have a lovely B&B cottage next door, but make sure to reserve well in advance as it is nearly always booked. | Average main: €15 | Roquefère, 25 km (11 miles) north of Carcassonne | 04–68–26–31–89 | www.auberge-siredecabaret.fr | Closed Jan.–Feb. 10. No dinner Mon., Tues. Closed Wed. Sept.–June.

WHERE TO STAY

Château La Villatade.

B&B/INN | On a sprawling wine estate, far from Carcassonne’s madding crowd, this serene retreat is owned by ever-hospitable (and English speaking) vintners from Toulouse, who happily share their best vintages and fine countryside lifestyle with guests. Accommodations are neutral-toned and clean-lined, with rustic accents like exposed barn beams and lime-washed plaster walls; the 314 surrounding acres are wrapped in rolling hills with grapevines and a few olive groves. Be sure to try La Villatade’s “Rituel,” a deep red wine. Pros: real French living amid vineyards; natural swimming pool; breakfast included. Cons: somewhat isolated—a car is essential; no on-site restaurant. | Rooms from: €95 | 15 km (10 miles) north of Carcassonne, Salleles | 04–68–77–57–51 | www.villatade.com | 2 rooms, 1 villa, 1 cottage | Breakfast.

Domaine d’Auriac.

HOTEL | Minutes away from Carcassonne, this seriously elegant 19th-century manor has one of the best restaurants in the region, and the entire building oozes grace and old-world charm; rooms vary in size, with the largest of them offering views over a magnificent park and vineyards. Next to a terrace planted with mulberry trees, a Michelin-starred chef prepares superlative regional cuisine, which is served in a Provençal-style salon festooned with copper pots. Here you can savor truffled pigeon, John Dory in blueberry wine, and game dishes (in season), accompanied by rare regional vintages. If you need a break from formality, dine in the casual Bistrot D’Auriac. Pros: excellent 18-hole golf course; personalized service; stately interiors. Cons: a few miles from Carcassonne’s center; classic French luxury may grate on guests seeking a low-key ambience. | Rooms from: €275 | Rte. de St-Hilaire, 4 km (2½ miles) southwest of Carcassonne | 04–68–25–72–22 | www.domaine-d-auriac.com | 19 rooms, 5 suites | Closed Jan., 1st wk of Feb. and 2nd wk of Nov. | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel de la Cité.

HOTEL | Enjoying the finest location within the walls of the old city, this ivy-covered former Episcopal palace provides a high level of creature comfort, which the ascetic Cathars would most definitely have deprived themselves of. Antique-tile floors, afternoon teas, and the sumptuous La Barbacane restaurant (presided over by Michelin-starred chef Jérome Ryon) help make this the spot for visiting celebrities. Tea is served in the library bar or the rotunda lounge, amid detailed woodwork and leaded windows; formal dinners in La Barbacane, with its double-vaulted ceiling and ogival windows, are quite an event; and, for more casual fare, you can view the charmingly cobbled square as you sip a pastis at the Brasserie Le Donjon. A pool in the garden beckons on hot days. Pros: no better location in Carcassonne; vintage luxury. Cons: must coordinate parking behind the city walls in advance; small pool. | Rooms from: €415 | Pl. August-Pierre Pont, La Cité | 04–68–71–98–71 | www.hoteldelacite.com | 47 rooms, 13 suites | No meals.

Hôtel Montségur.

HOTEL | With its central lower city location, this hotel isn’t only handy to Carcassonne’s shops, restaurants and nightlife; it also has special touches that belie the sweet prices here–many guest rooms feature Louis XV and Louis XVI furniture, some of it genuine. Rooms on the second floor are more 19th-century romantic, with gilt-iron bedsteads under sloping oak beams. Pros: the Faugras family has been in the hospitality business for over a century, so they know how to take care of their guests; convenient location. Cons: lends itself to street noise; may be disappointing to those wishing to sleep inside the walls of La Cité. | Rooms from: €97 | 1 av. Bunau Varilla, Ville Basse | 04–68–25–31–41 | www.hotelmontsegur.com | 18 rooms | Closed Dec. 22–Feb. 1 | No meals.

THE ARTS

Festival de Carcassonne.

Carcassonne hosts a major arts festival in July that includes dance, theater, and circus performances. Concerts are also on the lineup, featuring musicians like Elton John, James Blunt, and Lana Del Rey. | 04–68–11–59–15 | www.festivaldecarcassonne.fr.

PERPIGNAN

118 km (71 miles) southeast of Carcassonne, 27 km (17 miles) northwest of Collioure.

Salvador Dalí once called Perpignan’s train station “the center of the world.” That may not be true, but the city certainly is the capital hub of Roussillon. Perpignan tends to echo its surrounding agricultural landscape, rough around the edges and full of yet-unrealized potential that attracts a kind of bold spirit. Scratch the surface of Perpignan and you’ll find gypsy music, deep Catalonian pride, loud Spanish influences, and the occasional classic crêpe. It’s just as varied as the region’s dynamic winemakers, who might hail from the Loire Valley or South Africa. Center of the world? Could be.

Getting Here

Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) has a daily flight from London and Brussels to Aéroport Sud de France-Perpignan; a shuttle between the airport and the train station (at the end of av. du Général de Gaulle) is available for incoming and outgoing passengers. If you’re arriving from Paris by rail, the TGV takes about six hours and costs about €95. Plenty of trains connect Perpignan with Narbonne, some 64 km (40 miles) north, as well as many other communities on the coast. Bus links operate out of a terminal on Boulevard St. Assicle, next to the TGV station.

Visitor Information

Perpignan Tourist Office. | Pl. Armand Lanoux | 04–68–66–30–30 | www.perpignantourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Castillet.

Perpignan’s alluring town center is lined with rosemary bushes and landmarked by a medieval monument, the 14th-century Castillet, with its tall, crenellated twin towers. Originally this hulking brick building was the main gate to the city; later it was used as a prison. Now the Casa Pairal, a museum devoted to Catalan art and traditions, is housed here. | Pl. de Verdun | 04–68–35–42–05 | €4 | Tues.–Sun., Oct.–Apr., 11–5; May–Sept., 10–6.

Cathédrale St-Jean.

Note the frilly wrought-iron campanile and dramatic medieval crucifix on the Cathédrale St-Jean. | Pl. Gambetta.

Palais des Rois de Majorque (Kings of Majorca Palace).

The Spanish influence is evident in Perpignan’s leading monument, the fortified Palais des Rois de Majorque, begun in the 13th century by Jacques II of Majorca. Highlights here are the majestic Cour d’Honneur (Courtyard of Honor), the two-tier Flamboyant Gothic chapel of Ste-Croix Marie-Madelene, and the Grande Salle (Great Hall), with its monumental fireplaces. | Rue des Archers | 04–68–34–64–93 | €4 | Oct.–May, daily 9–5; June–Sept., daily 10–6.

Petite Rue des Fabriques d’En Nabot.

To see some interesting medieval buildings, walk along the Petite Rue des Fabriques d’En Nabot—near Le Castillet—to the adjacent Place de la Loge, the town’s nerve center.

Promenade des Plantanes.

Across Boulevard Wilson from Le Castillet, this is a cheerful place to stroll among flowers, plane trees, and fountains.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Crêperie du Théâtre.

FRENCH | Walk past the pubs and bars on this narrow alley for the best crêperie in Perpignan. Owned by a young couple from Brittany, it prepares authentic buckwheat crêpes with a modern twist and relies heavily on organic ingredients. Top picks include a galette stuffed with endive, smoked duck, pine nuts, cheese, and a honey-cream sauce, which can be gobbled down in the colorful, casual dining room. Two outside tables are good for enjoying coffee and a dessert crêpe. TIP Gluten-free travelers will be pleased to know buckwheat is not a wheat—bon appetit. | Average main: €8 | 12 rue du Théâtre | 04–68–34–29–06 | www.creperie-du-theatre.fr | Closed Sun., Mon., and 10 days in Jan.

Garriane.

INTERNATIONAL | Foodies appreciate Garriane’s direct approach to eating and drinking well. Here a plain-Jane decor and a dim neighborhood spectacularly contrast with immaculate plates presented by the Aussie-bred chef (who incidentally shook up Perpignan’s sleepy food scene with a strictly seasonal menu emphasizing local produce boldly prepared for an exotic outcome). Wine is the only choice you’ll need make; after that the nine-course degustation (€35) begins, with dishes like citrusy wild partridge and butternut squash mousse promptly appearing one after the other, ending with three separate desserts (picture chocolate gazpacho garnished with ultrafresh peppery olive oil). TIP For a quick rendition, book a table at lunch for half the price and half the time. | Average main: €35 | 15 rue Valette | 04–68–67–07–44 | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Sat.

Le France.

BISTRO | Occupying a 15th-century former stock market with exposed beams and arcades, this café-restaurant in the center of Perpignan is a perfect place to enjoy an easy meal under the umbrellas as you watch the world go by. Although the menu isn’t extraordinary, a broad array of well-presented, well-priced choices makes it popular. Options include scallop salad, foie gras with green beans and raisins, and grilled duck breast with apples. TIP Foregoing the typical break between lunch and dinner, Le France offers all-day service. | Average main: €15 | 1 pl. de la Loge | 04–68–51–61–71.

Les Antiquaires.

FRENCH | With traditional Roussillon specialties served in a rustic setting in a corner of old Perpignan, this friendly spot is known for unpretentious yet refined cuisine and lives up to its name as a refuge for things antique. Duck à l’orange, a house favorite, has appeared on the menu by popular demand for decades. Foie gras in a Banyuls (sweet red wine) sauce is another staple. But let’s be clear, this is an old-school Catalan option, so trend seekers may want to consider eating elsewhere. | Average main: €20 | Pl. Joseph Desprès | 04–68–34–06–58 | Closed Mon., last wk June and 1st 2 wks July, last 2 wks Jan. No dinner Sun.

Fodor’s Choice | Les Indigènes.

WINE BAR | You’ll find a well-rounded crowd at this wine and tapas bar where Rousillon’s top vignerons often mingle. Owned by two musicians with lots of friends, its walls are lined with bottles and long oak tables are filled with locals who spill out into the alley. If you’ve had one too many drawn-out French meal, this is the place to savor flavorful salads and small bites (like pesto and mozzarella entre pains) washed down with an excellent glass du sud. Just don’t count on this address in August because the bar is closed when everyone’s at the beach. TIP Order wine by the bottle and pay the cellar rate plus corking fee—by the glass can get expensive. | Average main: €12 | 26 rue de la Cloche d’Or | 04–68–35–65–02 | No lunch. Closed 1st wk in Jan. and several wks in summer.

Château la Tour Apollinaire.

B&B/INN | This Belle Époque château-turned-postmodern B&B was once the mayor’s residence and surrounded by sprawling vineyards. Now encased by a quiet residential neighborhood, it offers luxury repose within walking distance of Perpignan’s center; guest rooms range from a romantic converted chapel to a tri-level tower promising 360-degree views of the revered Canigou peak, and in-room perks include minibars stocked with bottles of the locally prestigious Château Valmy. A scrumptious breakfast is available at extra cost. Pros: great location; lovely grounds with pool and gardens. Cons: rooms have private bathrooms but share common areas; laminate flooring in places seem out of sync with other stately attributes. | Rooms from: €120 | 5 rue Guillaume Apollinaire | 04–68–92–43–02 | www.latourapollinaire.com | 13 rooms | No meals.

La Villa Duflot.

HOTEL | In a large park filled with olive and cypress trees, this hotel-restaurant complex prepares some of the best meals in one of the calmest settings just outside the city center. Try to request a room with a view over the park—they’re airy and comfortable, with warm, creamy colors; the rooms overlooking the patio aren’t nearly as nice, although they are a bit more economical. Much of the finesse is saved for the food, and it is good. The gastronomic restaurant, popular with haute Perpignan, serves light Mediterranean specialties around the pool—try the parillade, an assortment of the freshest catch of the day grilled to perfection and served with tangy aioli. Pros: restaurant is a local favorite; trees screen the property from the road. Cons: located in a commercial zone on the outskirts of town; though very comfortable, rooms and lobby lack character. | Rooms from: €190 | Rond Point Albert Donnezan | 04–68–56–67–67 | www.villa-duflot.com | 24 rooms, 1 suite | No meals.

SHOPPING

Maison Quinta.

This multilevel Catalan design shop has an attic studio where custom orders are cut from the area’s famously colorful fabric. | 3 rue Grande des Fabriques | www.maison-quinta.com.

Rue des Marchands, near Le Castillet, is thick with chic shops.

Sant Vicens Crafts Center.

Excellent local ceramics can be found at the picturesque Sant Vicens Crafts Center. Crowds flock here over Christmas to see the tiny—and extremely detailed—Nativity scenes made with ceramic figurines called santons. | Rue Sant Vicens, off D22 east of town center | www.santvicens.fr.

PRADES

45 km (27 miles) west of Perpignan.

It may be easy to bypass Prades en route to the region’s high peaks, but to do so would mean missing out its most authentic market town. Farmers, artists, vendors, and loyal shoppers descend from the tiny surrounding villages each Tuesday to sustain the vibrant stalls. Serenely positioned at the foot of the imposing north face of Mount Canigou, Prades is also a great jumping-off spot for mountain excursions.

Getting Here

To reach Prades, take a TER train or Conseil General bus from Perpignan (€1 each). A second €1 bus will take you onward to Abbaye de St-Michel de Cuxa; if you’d rather walk, pick up a map of “Le Tour de l’Abbaye de St-Michel de Cuxa” from the tourist office and follow the easy-rated trail through the woods.

Visitor Information

Prades Tourist Office. | 10 pl. de la Republique | 04–68–05–41–02 | www.prades-tourisme.fr.

EXPLORING

Abbaye de St-Michel de Cuxa.

One of the gems of the Pyrénées, this medieval abbey’s sturdy, crenellated bell tower is visible from afar. The remains of its cloisters are divine in every sense of the word—if they seem familiar, it may be because you’ve seen the missing pieces in New York City’s Cloisters Museum. A hauntingly simple, six-voice Gregorian vespers service held (somewhat sporadically) at 7 pm in the monastery is medieval in tone and texture; next door, the 10th-century pre-Romanesque church (France’s largest) has superb acoustics that make it an unforgettable concert venue. | 3 km (2 miles) south of Prades and Codalet on D27 | 04–68–96–15–35 | abbaye-cuxa.com | €5 | May–Sept., daily 9:30–11:50 and 2–6; Oct.–Apr., daily 9:30–11:50 and 2–5

Festival Pablo Casals.

World-renowned Catalan cellist Pablo Casals, who took refuge in Prades during the Spanish Civil War, gave his name to the international music festival that’s held here each year from late July to mid-August. | 04–68–96–33–07 | www.prades-festival-casals.com.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Fodor’s Choice | El Taller.

MODERN FRENCH | Run by four entrepreneurial friends in the small village of Taurinya (just down the road from the famous Abbaye de St-Michel de Cuxa), this hip bistro serves fine locally sourced fare. Like the food, the setting is modern and stylish: its sleek glass-walled building and steel-framed terrace were constructed by the village specifically to house this Bistrot de Pays (a government-subsidized network of village restaurants promoting commerce in rural areas). The contemporary air of the place, complete with art exhibits, concerts, and theater nights, makes El Taller a popular out-of-the-way gathering place for locals and travelers. | Average main: €24 | 5 km (3 miles) south of Prades, Taurinya | 04–68–05–63–35 | Closed Wed. and Jan. 9–22.

Castell Rose.

B&B/INN | Original hardwood floors, conservatively fine interiors, and a well-educated adolescent greeting you at the door make a night at Castell Rose like staying with a modern-day French bourgeois family. Complete with tennis courts, swimming pool, gardens, and afternoon string instrument lessons (for said adolescent), the atmosphere is genteel yet welcoming. Breakfast is included. Pros: warm and welcoming hosts; beautiful view of Mount Canigou. Cons: interiors might be too traditional for some tastes. | Rooms from: €110 | Chemin de la Litera | 04–68–96–07–57, 06–32–68–72–26 cell phone | www.castellrose-prades.com | 5 rooms, 1 villa | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Château de Riell.

HOTEL | An eccentric late-19th-century castle that blends Baroque style and English elements, this Relais & Châteaux property welcomes guests who want to enjoy its tranquil mountain setting or soak in the healing waters of Molitg-les-Bains. A Michele Guérard–trained chef evokes the spirit of the south at the château’s Restaurant du Chatelain, preparing dishes inspired by this region’s bounty. Pros: rooftop swimming pool; spectacular views of Mt. Canigou; superb restaurant. Cons: though a bus connects Molitg to Prades, a car is more practical; odd accents may be a bit much for some (but the zebra-print carpet on the stairs somehow works). | Rooms from: €155 | 9 km (5½ miles) north of Prades, Molitg-les-Bains | 04–68–05–04–40 | www.chateauderiell.com | 19 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–Mar.

Maison 225.

B&B/INN | Don’t let the bland street-front facade of this late 1800s town house turn you away—inside, the renovated interior blends stately original attributes with contemporary edges, and natural light spills in from the quiet gardens and terrace that give front-seat views of snowcapped Mount Canigou. Although all four rooms are spacious, combining modern style and nice antique details, the upstairs Terrace Suite stands out with its glassed-in Florida room. Pros: attentive hosts; casual yet cultivated service; swimming pool with mountain views. Cons: breakfast is included but tables are shared; rooms book up fast. | Rooms from: €70 | 225 av. du General de Gaulle | 04–68–05–52–79, 06–42–91–79–21 cell | www.225prades.com | 4 rooms | Breakfast.

The Little Train That Could

To fully understand the diverse geography of this region, a detour inland is almost essential. If you think the snowcapped mountains are beautiful from your beach towel, imagine how the blue-green Mediterranean looks from those mountain heights. One way to see the spectacular panorama is by riding le Petit Train Jaune, aka the Little Yellow Train, over France’s highest track. Built to link the region’s mountain villages with the towns on the coastal plane, this life-size toy train makes the 63-km (40-mile), three-hour climb from the fortified village of Villefranche to La Tour de Carole about five times a day, passing through 19 tunnels and crossing two viaducts en route. For information about hours and prices, check with the Vernet-les-Bains Tourist Office (04-68–05–55–35) or the SNCF website (www.ter-sncf.com).

VERNET-LES-BAINS

12 km (7 miles) southwest of Prades, 55 km (34 miles) west of Perpignan.

Many notables—including English writer Rudyard Kipling—have come to take the cure at this long-established spa town, which is dwarfed by imposing Mont Canigou.

Getting Here

Take a direct Conseil General bus (€1) from Perpignan to Vernet-les-Bains. To access the Abbaye St-Martin du Canigou, stay on the same bus to the end of the line at Casteil, and then be prepared to proceed on foot.

Visitor Information

Vernet-les-Bains Tourist Office. | 2 rue de la Chapelle | 04-68–05–55–35 | www.vernet-les-bains.fr.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Abbaye St-Martin du Canigou.

Visitors, tackling a steep, half-hour climb from the parking area, come to make a pilgrimage—esthetic or spiritual—to this celebrated medieval abbey. It’s one of the most photographed in Europe thanks to its sky-kissing location atop a triangular promontory at an altitude of nearly 3,600 feet. St-Martin du Canigou’s breathtaking mountain setting was due, in part, to an effort to escape the threat of marauding Saracens from the Middle East. Constructed in 1009 by Count Guifré of Cerdagne, then damaged by an earthquake in 1428 and abandoned in 1783, the abbey was diligently (perhaps too diligently) restored by the Bishop of Perpignan early in the 20th century. The oldest parts are the cloisters and the two churches, of which the lower church, dedicated to Notre-Dame-sous-Terre, is the most ancient. Rising above is a stocky, fortified bell tower. Although the hours vary, Masses are sung daily; call ahead to confirm. Easter Mass here is especially joyous and moving. | Casteil, 2 km (1 mile) south of Vernet-les-Bains | 04–68–05–50–03 | www.stmartinducanigou.org | €5 | Oct.–Dec. and Feb.–May, tours Tues.–Sat. 10, 11, 2, 3, 4, Sun. and holidays 10, 12:30, 2, 3, 4; June–Sept., tours Mon.–Sat. 10, 11, noon, 2, 3, 4, 5, Sun. and holidays 10, 12:30, 2, 3, 4, 5.

CÉRET

68 km (41 miles) southeast of Prades; 35 km (21 miles) west of Collioure; 31 km (19 miles) southwest of Perpignan.

The “Barbizon of Cubism,” Céret achieved immortality when leading artists found this small Catalan town irresistible at the beginning of the 20th century. Here in this medieval enclave set on the banks of the Tech River, Picasso and Gris developed a vigorous new way of visualizing that would result in the fragmented forms of Cubism, a thousand years removed from the Romanesque sculptures of the Roussillon chapels and cloisters. The town famously grows the first and finest crop of cherries in France.

Getting Here

Buses to Céret (35 mins, €1) leave from Perpignan’s Gare Routiére, next to the train station.

Visitor Information

Céret Tourist Office. | 1 av. Georges Clemenceau | 04–68–87–00–53 | www.ot-ceret.fr.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Musée d’Art Moderne (Modern Art Museum).

Some of the town landscapes captured in paintings by Picasso, Gris, Dufy, Braque, Chagall, Masson, and others are on view in the fine Musée d’Art Moderne. | 8 bd. Maréchal-Joffre | 04–68–87–27–76 | www.musee-ceret.com | €8 | May–June, daily 10–6; July–Sept., daily 10–7; Oct.–Apr., Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

Vieux Céret (Old Céret).

Place Picasso is the heart of Old Céret, and the sardana dancers and castellers (human tower troops) who perform here are evidence of the pride locals take in their Catalan heritage. While in this pretty quarter, stroll around Place de la Fontaine des Neuf Jets (Nine Fountains Square). Drop into the church, wander out to the lovely fortified Porte de France gateway, then leave the historic town center and head toward the single-arched medieval Pont du Diable (the Devil’s Bridge) on the perimeter of town, said to have been built by the devil himself in a single night.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Del Bisbe.

FRENCH | Located in the old bishop’s quarters, Del Bisbe earned its reputation by promptly serving authentic, well-presented Catalan dishes (such as roasted red peppers and fresh anchovies with grilled summer vegetables), along with classic French fare (including foie gras with apple-pear chutney). TIP Reserve ahead for a table on the hidden, vine-covered terrace upstairs; otherwise ask for one in the clay-tiled dining room with open air views of Céret’s main street. | Average main: €25 | 4 pl. Soutine | 04–68–87–00–85 | www.hotelceret.com | Closed 1 day per wk (TBA) Apr.–Oct., and all Nov.

Le Pied dans le Plat.

BISTRO | The terraces on this quiet, shaded place in the center of Céret’s winding pedestrian streets beckon anyone wishing to while away an afternoon or evening á table. Those in the know choose Le Pied dans le Plat for classic French and Catalan dishes like boles de picolat (meatballs spiced with cinnamon). For dessert, try cobblers made with fruit from Céret’s famous orchards. As with all local eateries, high tourist traffic in July and August can sometimes compromise service and kitchen quality. But locals still come year round, enjoying indoor dining beneath exposed medieval beams once the terrace closes. | Average main: €20 | Pl. des Neufs Jets | 04–68–87–17–65.

La Terrasse au Soleil.

HOTEL | Although guest rooms here don’t quite live up to the high prices, this hostelry—set high above Céret—has terrific terrace views of Mont Canigou and its verdant valley. No wonder this is where the famous French singer Charles Trenet lived for a long time. If your budget allows, opt for one of the villa apartments, as their views are all the more opulent. Pros: outdoor pool, onsite spa with Turkish bath perfumed by organic essential oils. Cons: not in town center; somewhat flat ambience. | Rooms from: €165 | Rte. de Fontfrede | 04–68–87–01–94 | www.terrasse-au-soleil.com | 37 rooms, 2 suites | Closed Dec. 15–Feb. 15 | No meals.

Les Arcades.

HOTEL | This comfortable, well-priced spot in mid-Céret looks and feels exactly the way an inn ensconced in the heart of a provincial French town should, and having both the world-class collection of paintings of the Musée d’Art Moderne and the top-rated Restaurant del Bisbe just next door further elevates it as a desirable place to stay. Pros: family-run business with great customer service; superior art in the public areas. Cons: some rooms are small; walls are thin. | Rooms from: €59 | 1 pl. Picasso | 04–68–87–12–30 | www.hotel-arcades-ceret.com | 30 rooms.

COLLIOURE

35 km (21 miles) east of Céret, 27 km (17 miles) southeast of Perpignan.

The fishing village where famed painters Henri Matisse, André Derain, and the Fauvists committed chromatic mayhem in the early 20th century, Collioure is still the jewel of the Vermilion Coast. A town of espadrille merchants, anchovy packers, and lateen-rigged fishing boats in the shadow of a 13th-century Château Royal, it is now as much a magnet for travelers (beware the crowds in July and August) as it once was and remains a lure for artists.

Matisse set up shop here in the summer of 1905 and was soon inspired by the colors of the town’s terra-cotta roofs. André Derain, Henri Martin, and Georges Braque—who were dubbed Fauves for their “savage” (fauve means “wild beast”) approach to color and form—quickly followed. To discover tomorrow’s Matisses and Derains, head to the streets behind the place du 18-Juin and to the old Le Mouré neighborhood, beneath Fort Miradou—the studios here are filled with contemporary artists at work; or visit the streets behind the Vieux Port to find former fishermen’s quarters now occupied by smart boutiques and restaurants. Other dining delights await on the café-terraces overlooking the main beach and the fashionable rue Camille Pelletan by the harbor, where you can feast on Collioure’s tender, practically boneless anchovies and the fine Banyuls and Collioure AOC wines coming from the impeccably cultivated vineyards surrounding the town. Although nearby villages are apparently only rich in quaintness, Collioure is surprisingly prosperous, thanks to the cultivation of primeurs, early ripening fruit and vegetables, shipped to the markets of northern France.

Getting Here

About a dozen daily trains from Perpignan (20 mins, €6) pull into Collioure’s rail station at the end of avenue Aristide Maillol. But the subsidized Conseil General bus network, which gets you anywhere in the département for €1, is the most economical (and thus popular) mode of transportation.

Visitor Information

Collioure Tourist Office. | Pl. du 18-Juin | 04–68–82–15–47 | www.collioure.com.

Matisse Country

The little coastal village of Collioure continues to play muse to the entire Côte Vermeille—after all, it gave rise to the name of the Vermilion Coast, because the great painter Henri Matisse daringly painted Collioure’s yellow-sand beach using a bright red terra-cotta hue. For such artistic daredevilry, he was branded a “fauve.” Considered, along with Picasso, to be one of the most influential artists of the modern period, Matisse (1869–1954) and fellow painter André Derain (1880–1954) discovered Fauvism en vacances in Collioure in 1905.

Holed up here during that summer, the friends were seduced by its pink and mauve houses, ocher rooftops, and the dramatic combination of sea, sun, and hills. Back then, further touches of color were added by the red and green fishing boats. With nature’s outré palette at hand, Matisse was inspired to passionate hues and a brash distortion of form.

At summer’s end, Matisse made the trip to Paris to show his Collioure works at the Salon d’Automne, the season’s biggest art event. Because the canvases of Matisse, Derain, and their kindred spirits were so shocking, they were made to hang their paintings in a back room (No. 7, which became known as “the cage”). The public jeered the works, saying they were primitive, coarse, and extreme. But before long, their sucess de scandale quickly won them new adherents, including the painters Rouault, Van Dongen, Braque, and Dufy. Fauvism became the rage from 1905 to 1908; by 1909 Matisse was famous all around the world.

Today Matisse’s masterpieces grace the walls of the greatest museums in the world. In a sense, Collioure has something better: a host of virtual Matisses, 3-D Derains, and pop-up Dufys. Realizing this, the mayor decided to create the Chemin du Fauvisme (Fauvist Way) more than a decade ago, erecting 20 reproductions of Matisse’s and Derain’s works on the very spots where they were painted.

Matisse could return today and find things little changed: the Château Royal still perches over the harbor, the Fort Saint-Elme still makes a striking perspectival point on its hilltop, and the plage Boramar still looks like a 3-acre “Matisse.”

Pick up the Chemin’s trail at the town’s Espace Fauve by going to quai de l’Amiraute (04–68–98–07–16) or check out its history at www.collioure.com.

EXPLORING

Château Royal.

A slender jetty divides the Boramar Beach, beneath Notre-Dame-des-Anges, from the small landing area at the foot of the Château Royal. The castle served as the summer residence of the kings of Majorca from 1276 to 1344 and was remodeled by Vauban 500 years later. | 04–68–82–06–43 | €4 | June and Sept., daily 10–6; Oct.–May, daily 9–5; July and Aug., daily 10–7.

Chemin du Fauvisme.

Composed of narrow, cobbled streets and pretty houses, Colloiure today is a living museum, as evidenced by the Chemin du Fauvisme (Fauvist Way), a pedestrian trail winding through town with 20 points where you can compare reproductions of noted Fauvist canvases with the actual scenes that were depicted in them. The information center, behind the Plage Boramar, has an excellent map. Viewfinder picture frames let you see how delightfully little of what the artists once admired has changed in the ensuing century. To the north, the rocky Îlot St-Vincent juts out into the sea, a modern lighthouse at its tip, and inland the Albères mountain range rises to connect the Pyrénées with the Mediterranean. The town harbor is a painting unto itself, framed by a 13th-century castle and a 17th-century church fortified with a tower.

Musée d’Art Moderne Fonds Péské.

No Matissses hold pride of place at the town’s Musée d’Art Moderne Fonds Péské, but the collection of 180 works deftly sums up the influence the painter had on this cité des peintures (city of artists). Works by Cocteau, Valtat, and others are impressively housed in a picturesque, ivy-shrouded villa on a beautiful hillside site. | Rte. de Porte-Vendres | 04–68–82–10–19 | €2 | July and Aug., daily 10–noon and 2–6; Sept.–June, Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

Notre-Dame-des-Anges.

At the end of Boulevard du Boramar is the 17th-century church of Notre-Dame-des-Anges. It has exuberantly carved, gilded Churrigueresque altarpieces by celebrated Catalan master Joseph Sunyer and a pink-dome bell tower that doubled as the original lighthouse. | Pl. de l’Église.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Au Casot.

SEAFOOD | Locals and tourists alike come here for fresh Catalan and seafood dishes, like sea bass simply prepared with lemon, sea salt, and herbes de Provence. The casual-cool beach vibe is an added draw: dining tables cover a boardwalk in front of the artful kitchen shack, and low round bar tables (usually occupied by one or two philosopher types) are perched in the sand. Au Casot’s pricey prices reflect its prime location beneath the picturesque Chapelle St. Vincent, but the food, wine, and atmosphere are all authentically pleasing. | Average main: €24 | Plage St-Vincent | 04–68–22–42–46.

Le 5eme Péché.

FRENCH FUSION | On one of Collioure’s quieter cobblestoned streets you’ll find Le 5eme Péché, where the clean-lined decor seems in synch with simple yet innovative dishes like tempura shrimp with chestnut cream and apple crisps. Iijima Masashi, the young Japanese chef who dared open this tiny French-fusion bistro, is more than just tolerated among local traditional French gourmets—he’s celebrated. With only 18 seats and an open kitchen plan, you’ll feel like you know him personally by the time dinner is done. TIP The limited menu may not please finicky eaters. | Average main: €22 | 18 rue de la Fraternité | 04–68–98–09–76 | www.le5peche.com.

Casa Païral.

HOTEL | This idyllic, palm-shaded 19th-century town house surrounded by a leafy garden feels like an oasis in often-tumultuous Collioure. The main building is more charming than the annex, but all rooms are comfortable and tastefully appointed; if you’d rather relax outdoors, the hotel has its own pool and is just a five-minute walk from the water’s edge. Pros: in the center of Collioure; very helpful staff. Cons: closed in winter; rooms vary in terms of size and decor. | Rooms from: €141 | Impasse des Palmiers | 04–68–82–05–81 | www.hotel-casa-pairal.com | 27 rooms | Closed Nov.–Mar. | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Les Templiers.

HOTEL | Matisse, Maillol, Dalí, Picasso, and Dufy used to hang out here, and today owner Jojo Pous (son of the driving force behind Collioure’s art colony) is proud to show off the 2,500-plus original works hanging from every nook and cranny of this celebrated inn and restaurant—universally considered the “soul” of Collioure. The bar itself is a work of art, curved like the hull of a skiff and ending with a wood sculpture of a mermaid suckling an infant sailor. Collioure exudes the spirit of French Catalonia, so the food here is mostly Catalan and usually excellent (try dishes that feature the town’s fabled anchovies). Guest rooms overlooking the château are cozy, but be sure yours isn’t in the annex. Pros: in the center of town; short walk to beaches, shops, and restaurants Cons: on a pedestrian alley, so no access for cars; noisy during the hustle and bustle of August. | Rooms from: €70 | 12 quai de l’Amirauté | 04–68–98–31–10 | www.hotel-templiers.com | 45 | Closed Jan. and last wk of Nov. | No meals.

Relais des Trois Mas.

HOTEL | With a perfect perch overlooking the harbor from the cliffs south of town, this hotel enjoys vistas that are priceless—which is the main reason why staying here is pricey. Guest rooms are small overall but interestingly furnished (headboards, for example, have delightful wooden motifs), and some come with balconies or terraces. Below is a pebbled beach, though you may prefer the small pool (hewn from rock) or the huge Jacuzzi. Meals at La Balette restaurant (closed Monday, no lunch Tuesday or Wednesday) can be eaten on the terrace or in one of the two small dining rooms overlooking the harbor. Pros: breathtaking views of Collioure; welcoming service; fine restaurant. Cons: some standard rooms are very small; lodgings are basic for the price; no lobby, sitting area, or bar. | Rooms from: €170 | Rte. de Port-Vendres | 04–68–82–05–07 | www.relaisdes3mas.com | 19 rooms, 4 suites | Closed Nov. 15–Feb. 4 | No meals.

SALSES

16 km (10 miles) north of Perpignan, 48 km (30 miles) south of Narbonne.

Salses has a history of sieges. History relates that Hannibal stormed through the town with his elephants on his way to the Alps in 218 BC, though no trace of his passage remains.

Getting Here

From the Gare Routiére in Perpignan, bus line 140 goes to Salses-le-Chateau (30 mins, €1).

EXPLORING

Fort de Salses.

The colossal, well-preserved Fort de Salses was built by Ferdinand of Aragon between 1497 and 1504. Equipped to accommodate 300 horses and 1,500 soldiers, it finally fell to the French under Cardinal Richelieu in 1642 after three sieges. Bulky round towers ring the rectangular inner fort, and the four-story keep, with its narrow corridors, was designed to protect the fort’s governor to the bitter end. | 04–68–38–60–13 | €7.50 | Oct.–Mar., daily 10–12:15 and 2–5; Apr.–Sept., daily 10–6:30.

NARBONNE

61 km (38 miles) north of Perpignan; 60 km (37 miles) east of Carcassonne; 94 km (58 miles) south of Montpellier.

In Roman times, bustling, industrial Narbonne was the second-largest town in Gaul (after Lyon) and an important port, though today little remains of its Roman past, except an impressive underground warehouse (horreum in Latin) once used to store the wines and goods shipped through its harbor. Until the sea receded during the Middle Ages, Narbonne prospered. Today, the city center would be considered sleepy in comparison, but it has an elegant feel more in tune with Montpellier’s classy shops than with the streets of gypsy-influenced Perpignan.

Getting Here

There are 15 daily departures from Paris to Narbonne, and TGVs leaving the Gare de Lyon can cover the distance in 4½ hours (€105). Narbonne is also an important rail junction for the region, with frequent trains departing for Perpignan (45 mins, €11.90), Montpellier (1 hr, €16.90), Carcassonne (30 mins, €11.20), and Toulouse (1½ hrs, €21). The train station is on boulevard Frédéric Mistral, north of the city center and adjacent to the Gare Routière (bus station) on avenue Carnot.

Visitor Information

Narbonne Tourist Office. | 31 rue Jean Juares | 04–68–65–15–60 | www.narbonne-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale St-Just-et-St-Pasteur.

The town’s former wealth is evinced by the 14th-century Cathédrale St-Just-et-St-Pasteur—its vaulting rises 133 feet from the floor, making it the tallest cathedral in southern France. Only Beauvais and Amiens (both in Picardy) are taller, and, as at Beauvais, the nave here was never completed. The “Creation” tapestry is the cathedral’s finest treasure. TIP Enter from the back side (rue Gustave Fabre) for an especially impressive look at the unfinished nave and insight into the construction process. | Rue Armand-Gauthier.

Musée Lapidaire (Sculpture Museum).

On the south side of the Canal de la Robine, the Musée Lapidaire is in the handsome 13th-century former church of Notre-Dame de la Mourguié. Classical busts, ancient sarcophagi, lintels, and Gallo-Roman inscriptions await. | Pl. Lamourguier | 04–68–65–53–58 | €4; €9 includes admission to 7 town sites | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–6; Oct.–May, Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5.

Palais des Archevêques (Archbishops’ Palace).

Richly sculpted cloisters link the cathedral to the former Palais des Archevêques, now home to museums of archeology, art, and history. Note the late-13th-century keep, the Donjon Gilles-Aycelin; climb the 180 steps to the top for a view over the town and surrounding region. | Pl. de l’Hôtel de Ville | 04–68–90–30–65 | €4, €9 includes admission to 7 town sites | Apr.–July 14, Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5; July 15–Oct., daily 10–1 and 2:30–6; Nov.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 2–5.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Château L’Hospitalet.

HOTEL | A stay at this sprawling family-owned wine estate, located between Narbonne’s city center and its beaches, is like a course in the art of Mediterranean living complete with surrounding vineyards, sea breezes, an immense wine-tasting cellar, organic kitchen garden, and resident artist studios. Although the individual rooms breathe standard hotel, the grounds and restaurant ooze southern French luxury. lDon’t miss its annual Festival Art de Vivre, Vivre l’Art with art expositions held in the vineyards. Pros: a good sampling of wine, art, and lifestyle; close to beaches and town. Cons: guest rooms lack character; property has a somewhat commercial undertone. | Rooms from: €145 | Rte. de Narbonne Plage | 04–68–45–28–50 | www.chateau-lhospitalet.com | 38 rooms | Closed 3 wks in Jan. | No meals.

Hôtel La Résidence.

HOTEL | One block from the Canal de la Robine and another block from Place Salengro and the cathedral, Hôtel La Résidence has housed French arts icons like singer Georges Brassens and actor Michel Serrault; the 19th-century building is itself charming, and rooms combine old-fashioned warmth with modern comforts. Pros: centrally located for shops, restaurants, and museums. Cons: parking area can be difficult to navigate and can fill up. | Rooms from: €97 | 6 rue Premier Mai | 04–68–32–19–41 | www.hotel-laresidence-narbonne.fr | 26 rooms | No meals.

Le Relais du Val d’Orbieu.

HOTEL | This pretty spot west of town is a viable solution to Narbonne’s scarcity of good hotels—rooms are grouped around a courtyard and most are reached through covered arcades; the better ones are pleasantly simple, with bare tile floors and large French doors leading onto terraces, while the standard ones are slightly smaller and do not have terraces or views. The prix-fixe restaurant (no lunch) lacks intimacy, but is more than serviceable. Pros: English-speaking owner is extremely helpful. Cons: some rooms don’t have window screens—and get very buggy in summer. | Rooms from: €120 | 14 km (8 miles) west of Narbonne, D24, Ornaisons | 04–68–27–10–27 | www.relaisduvaldorbieu.com | 14 rooms, 2 suite, 4 apartments | Closed Dec. and Jan. | No meals.

BÉZIERS

25 km (12 miles) northeast of Narbonne, 65 km (33 miles) southwest of Montpellier.

Béziers—centerpiece of the Canal du Midi and the Languedoc’s capital du vin (crowds flock in for tastings during the October wine harvest festival)—owes its reputation to the genius of native son and royal salt-tax collector Pierre-Paul Riquet. That’s his statue presiding over the allées Paul Riquet. He was a visionary at a time when roads were in deplorable shape and grain was transported on the backs of mules, yet he died a pauper in 1680, a year before the canal into which he sank his fortune was completed (it was begun by the ancient Romans), revolutionizing commerce in the south of France. Few would have predicted much of a future for Béziers in July 1209, after Simon de Montfort, leader of the crusade against the Cathars, scored his first major victory here, massacring hundreds. Today the Canal du Midi hosts mainly pleasure cruisers, and Béziers sits serenely on its perch overlooking the distant Mediterranean and the foothills of the Cévennes Mountains. Early August sees the four-day féria—a festival with roots in Spain and replete with gory bullfighting (you’ve been warned).

Getting Here

There are frequent daily trains to Béziers from Perpignan (1 hr, €15.80) and Montpellier (50 mins, €13.20). Buses also run from Montpellier eight times a day (90 mins, €1.60).

Visitor Information

Béziers Tourist Office. | 1 Bd. Wilson | 04–99–41–36–36 | www.beziers-mediterranee.com.

EXPLORING

Ancienne Cathédrale St-Nazaire.

Rebuilt over several centuries after the sack of Béziers, the cathedral’s western facade resembles a fortress for good reason—it served as a warning to would-be invaders. Note the medieval wall along Rue de Juiverie, which formed the limit between the cathedral precincts and the Jewish quarter. Inside the cathedral, look for the magnificent 17th-century walnut organ and the frescoes representing the lives of St. Stephen and others. | Plan des Albigeois.

Église de la Madeleine.

The heavily restored church, with its distinctive octagonal tower, was the place where the infamous 1209 massacre began. Some 7,000 townspeople, who had sought refuge from Simon de Montfort inside the church, were burned alive before he turned his attention to sacking the town. The event is known as le grand mazel (the great bonfire). | Off Rue de la République.

Halles (Market Hall).

The late-19th-century Halles in Béziers mirrors the style of the architect Baltard, who built the original Les Halles in Paris. This is a particularly beautiful example, with large stone cabbages gracing the entrance like urns. | Entrances on Rue Paul Riquet and Pl. Pierre Sémard | Daily 8 am–2 pm.

Jardin des Évêques (Bishops’ Garden).

Adjoining the cathedral are a 14th-century cloister and the Jardin des Évêques, a terraced garden descending to the banks of the Orb. The views from here, which take in Béziers’s five bridges, are magnificent. | Plan des Albigeois | Oct.–Apr., daily 10–5:30; May–Sept., daily 10–7.

WHERE TO STAY

Château de Lignan.

HOTEL | Set in its own park, this elegant estate northwest of Béziers has two slender tile-roof towers, lending a vaguely Italianate air to the austere stucco facade—what a pity that the rooms have little to distinguish them from standard chain hotels except their size and louvered windows. The restaurant, on the other hand, is exceptional. The octagonal sprawl of the skylighted dining room is cheery and welcoming; and simple, streamlined fare—such as strongly flavored loup en papillote (sea bass cooked in parchment)—is a perfect prelude to the vanilla ice cream–filled baked pears. Pros: great restaurant; good-size rooms; pretty parkland surroundings. Cons: outside the city; bland interior design. | Rooms from: €120 | Pl. de l’Église, 6 km (4 miles) northwest of Béziers | Lignan-sur-Orb | 04–67–37–91–47 | www.chateaulignan.fr | 44 rooms | No meals.

THE OUTDOORS

Daylong excursions on the Canal du Midi include passage over the canal bridge spanning the Orb and through the nine locks.

Les Bâteaux du Soleil.

Cruise companies working the Canal de Midi can have extensive routes—some go as far as the Mediterranean resort town of Agde, 21 km (14 miles) away. Les Bâteaux du Soleil offers a wide range of excursions. | Ecluses de Fonseronnes | 04–67–94–08–79 | www.bateaux-du-soleil.fr.

MONTPELLIER

140 km (87 miles) northeast of Perpignan, 42 km (26 miles) southwest of Nîmes.

Vibrant Montpellier (pronounced monh-pell-yay), capital of the Languedoc-Roussillon region, has been a center of commerce and learning since the Middle Ages, when it was a crossroads for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, in Spain, and an active shipping center trading in spices from the East. With its cargo of exotic luxuries, it also imported Renaissance learning, and its university—founded in the 13th century—has nurtured a steady influx of ideas through the centuries. Though the port silted up by the 16th century, Montpellier never became a backwater. A student population of some 75,000 keeps things lively—especially on the place de la Comédie; and, as a center of commerce and conferences, it keeps its focus on the future. An imaginative urban planning program has streamlined Montpellier’s 17th-century Vieille Ville, and monumental perspectives dwarf passersby on its promenade du Peyrou. An even more utopian venture in urban planning is the Antigone district, a vast, harmonious 100-acre complex designed in 1984 by Barcelona architect Ricardo Bofill.

Touring Montpellier

Montpellier Tourist Office.

English-language walking tours organized by the Montpellier Tourist Office depart on Saturday from the Place de la Comédie (€7.50, check online or at the office for times). Mapped itineraries and audio-guides are also available if you prefer to explore independently. | 30 allée Jean de Lattre de Tassigny, Esplanade Comédie | 04–67–60–60–60 | www.ot-montpellier.fr | €7.50 guided tour.

Tourist train.

A small tourist train with broadcast commentary leaves from the Place de la Comedie daily at 11, noon, 2, 3, and 4 (extra runs are added in high season). Tickets cost €7. | 04–67–66–24–38 information | www.petit-train-de-montpellier.com | Closed Nov. 15–Jan.

Getting Here

Air France (www.airfrance.com), easyJet (www.easyjet.com), and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) all serve the Aéroport Montpellier-Méditerranée, southeast of the city; you can then reach Montpellier via shuttle (€2.40) or public transit (€1.50). Multiple TGV rail options will get you here from Paris’s Gare de Lyon in three hours, 30 minutes (about €85). Regional rail lines connect the city with destinations like Toulouse (2 hrs, €32), Carcassonne (2 hrs, €23), and Perpignan (2 hrs, €25); there are also direct trains as far afield as Avignon, Nice, and Marseille. If you’re trying to get to the sea, hail bus No. 131 (which passes every half hour for Palavas).

Visitor Information

Montpellier Tourist Office. | 30 allée Jean de Lattre de Tassigny, Esplanade Comédie | 04–67–60–60–60 | www.ot-montpellier.fr.

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EXPLORING

Top Attractions

Arc de Triomphe.

Looming majestically over the peripheral highway that loops around the city center, this enormous arch is the centerpiece of the Peyrou. Designed by d’Aviler in 1689, it was finished by Giral in 1776. Together, the noble scale of these harmonious stone constructions and the sweeping perspectives they frame make for an inspiring stroll through this upscale stretch of town. At the end of the park is the historic Château d’Eau, a Corinthian temple and the terminal for les Arceaux, an 18th-century aqueduct; on a clear day the view from here is spectacular, taking in the Cévennes Mountains, the sea, and an ocean of red-tile roofs (it’s worth coming back at night to see the entire promenade illuminated).

Musée Fabre.

From crowd-packed Place de la Comédie, Boulevard Sarrail leads north past the shady Esplanade Charles de Gaulle to this rich, renowned art museum. The building—combining a 17th-century hôtel, a vast Victorian wing with superb natural light, and a remnant of a Baroque Jesuit college—is a mixed bag of architectural styles. The collection inside is surprisingly big, thanks to the museum’s namesake, a Montpellier native. François-Xavier Fabre, a student of the great 18th-century French artist David, established roots in Italy and acquired a formidable collection of masterworks—which he then donated to his hometown, supervising the development of this fine museum. Among his gifts were the Mariage Mystique de Sainte Catherine, by Veronese, and Poussin’s coquettish Venus et Adonis. Later contributions include a superb group of 17th-century Flemish works (Rubens, Steen), a collection of 19th-century French canvases (Géricault, Delacroix, Corot, Millet) that inspired Gauguin and Van Gogh, and a growing group of 20th-century acquisitions that buttress a legacy of paintings by early Impressionist Frédéric Bazille. | 39 bd. Bonne Nouvelle | 04–67–14–83–00 | museefabre.montpellier-agglo.com | €8 | Tues.–Sun. 10–6.

Place de la Comédie.

The number of bistros and brasseries increases as you leave the Vieille Ville to cross Place des Martyrs, and if you veer right down Rue de la Loge, you emerge onto the festive gathering spot known as Place de la Comédie. Anchored by the neoclassical 19th-century Opéra-Comédie, this broad square is a beehive of leisurely activity, a cross between Barcelona’s Ramblas and a Roman passeggiata (afternoon stroll, en masse). Eateries and entertainment venues draw crowds, but the real pleasure is getting here and seeing who came before, wearing what, and with whom.

Promenade du Peyrou.

Montpellier’s grandest avenue, the promenade was built at the end of the 17th century and dedicated to Louis XIV.

Worth Noting

Antigone.

At the far-east end of the city loop, Montpellier seems to transform itself into a futuristic city, all in one smooth, low-slung postmodern style. This is the Antigone district, the result of city planners’ efforts (and local industries’ commitment) to pull Montpellier up out of its economic doldrums. It worked. This ideal neighborhood, designed by the Catalan architect Ricardo Bofill, covers 100-plus acres with plazas, esplanades, shops, restaurants, and low-income housing constructed out of stone-color, pre-stressed concrete.

Hôtel de Region.

Be sure to visit Place du Nombre d’Or—symmetrically composed of curves—and the long vista that stretches down a mall of cypress trees to the glass-fronted Hôtel de Region. | Rue de Pompegnane.

Cathédrale St-Pierre.

After taking in the broad vistas of the Promenade de Peyrou, cross over into the Vieille Ville and wander its maze of narrow streets full of pretty shops and intimate restaurants. At the northern edge of the Vieille Ville, visit this imposing cathedral, its fantastical and unique 14th-century entry porch alone warrant the detour: two cone-top towers—some five stories high—flank the main portal and support a groin-vaulted shelter. The interior, despite 18th-century reconstruction, maintains the formal simplicity of its 14th-century origins. | Pl. St-Pierre.

Faculté de Médecine.

Peek into this noble institution on Rue de l’École de Médecine, next door to Cathédrale St-Pierre. Founded in the 13th century and infused with generations of international learning (especially Arab and Jewish scholarship), it is one of France’s most respected medical schools.

Jardin des Plantes.

Boulevard Henri IV runs north from the Promenade du Peyrou to France’s oldest botanical garden, which was planted on order of Henri IV in 1593. An exceptional range of plants, flowers, and trees grows here. | Bd. Henri IV | 04–34–43–36–20 | www.univ-montp1.fr/patrimoine/jardin_des_plantes | Free | Tues.–Sun. noon–8; noon–6 in winter.

WHERE TO EAT

Le Chat Perché.

FRENCH | People flock here for the warm bistro ambience, the terrace overlooking the square below, the carefully selected regional wines, and the traditional dishes served with flair. The cuisine varies with the seasons, the markets, and the humor of the chef, but everything is homemade and reasonably priced. | Average main: €23 | 10 rue college Duvergier, Pl. de la Chapelle Neuve | 04–67–60–88–59 | Reservations essential | No lunch; closed Sun.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Jardin des Sens.

MODERN FRENCH | Blink and look again: twins Laurent and Jacques Pourcel, trained under separate masters, combine forces here to achieve a quiet, almost cerebral cuisine based on southern French traditions. At every turn are happy surprises, including foie gras crisps, dried-fruit risotto, and lamb sweetbreads with prawns. The interior is stylishly minimalist, with steel beams and tables on three tiers. Truth is, the restaurant is in a rather delabré working-class neighborhood, and from the outside looks like an anonymous warehouse incongruous with its Michelin-starred reputation. TIP A modest lunch menu lets you indulge at a lower cost. | Average main: €65 | 11 av. St-Lazare | 04–99–58–38–38 | www.jardindessens.com | Closed Sun. and 1st wk of Jan. No lunch Mon. and Wed.

Le Petit Jardin.

FRENCH | On a quiet Vieille Ville backstreet, this simple restaurant lives up to its name: you dine looking over (or seated in) a lovely, deep-shaded garden with views of the cathedral. A simple omelet with pepper sauce, fresh foie gras in a rhubarb sauce, or turbot in a honey and balsamic vinegar sauce mirrors the welcome, which is warm and unpretentious. TIP For a lighter version, ask for a table in the wine bar where a pared down menu is available. | Average main: €37 | 20 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau | 04–67–14–83–00 | Oct.–May, closed Mon. and no dinner Sun.

Le Petit Mickey.

MEDITERRANEAN | Since 1885 this eatery—the oldest in the city, known historically as Casimir—has been feeding locals fine Mediterranean fare such as bull stew and fish of the day à la plancha (grilled with olive oil, garlic, and herbs) at great prices. You might have to endure the crowds and a sometimes irascible owner, but when the copious traditional plates hit the table you’ll quickly forget the wait at lunchtime. | Average main: €15 | 15 rue du Petit Jean | 04–67–60–60–41 | Closed Sun. and month of Aug.; no dinner Tues.

Little Red Café.

WINE BAR | Montpellier’s vino scene has been on the upswing ever since Languedoc’s vineyards and vintages made it onto the world wine map—thereby insuring the success of wine bars like Little Red Café. A middle-aged crowd tends to gather here for live music, well-prepared meals, and, of course, great wine. | Average main: €11 | 15 rue des Soeurs Noires | 04–99–65–63–48 | Closed Sun.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Baudon de Mauny.

B&B/INN | The finest rooms in Montpellier (and quite possibly the whole region) can be found at this chic guesthouse on one of the historic district’s nicest streets. In the same family since 1829, the urban mansion was renovated and opened as an elite bed-and-breakfast in 2008; now it’s an architect’s dream, with soothing modern art and soft contemporary design blending ever so gracefully with Louis XVI period features—like original sculpted wall friezes, extraordinarily voluminous rooms, and stately stone floors. Personal service, attention to detail, and ultimate luxury make this the address for travelers seeking the best of comfort and culture. If you’re vacationing en famille ask about the apartment that comes with a kitchen. Pros: architectural success; extra-spacious rooms; flawless service. Cons: no on-site parking. | Rooms from: €180 | 1 rue de la Carbonnerie | 04–67–02–21–77 | www.baudondemauny.com | 8 rooms, 1 apartment | Breakfast.

Le Guilhem.

HOTEL | On the same quiet backstreet as the restaurant Le Petit Jardin, this hôtel de charme is actually a series of 16th-century houses rebuilt from ruins, replete with an extraordinary old garden. While an elevator and state-of-the-art white-tile baths have been added, Le Guilhem nonetheless retains original casement windows, slanting floors, and views toward the cathedral. Tiny garret-style rooms at the top are great if you’re traveling alone; if not, ask for the largest available. Pros: location close to Cathedrale St-Pierre, Jardin des Plantes, and the Promenade du Peyrou. Cons: it’s a long walk from the Place de la Comédie. | Rooms from: €97 | 18 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau | 04–67–52–90–90 | www.leguilhem.com | 35 rooms | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Orchestre National de Montpellier.

This young, energetic orchestra performs regularly in the Salle Molière and in the Opéra Berlioz at the Corum conference center. | www.opera-orchestre-montpellier.fr.

Salle Molière-Opéra de Montpellier.

Operas and orchestral concerts are staged in the imposing Salle Molière-Opéra de Montpellier. | 11 bd. Victor Hugo | 04–67–60–19–99 | www.opera-montpellier.com.

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Welcome to The Basque Country

The Basque Coast

The Atlantic and Hautes-Pyrénées

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner

Updated by Avery Sumner

Several years back, a mayor in the province of Soule welcomed a group of travelers with the following announcements: the Basque Country is the most beautiful place in the world; the Basque people are very likely direct descendants of Adam and Eve via the lost city of Atlantis; his own ancestors fought in the Crusades; and Christopher Columbus was almost certainly a Basque. There, in brief, was a composite picture of the pride, dignity, and humor of the Basques.

And if Columbus was not a Basque (a claim very much in doubt), at least historians know that whalers from the regional village of St-Jean-de-Luz sailed as far as America in their three-mast ships, and that Juan Sebastián Elkano, from the Spanish Basque village of Getaria, commanded the completion of Magellan’s voyage around the world after Magellan’s 1521 death in the Philippines. The distinctive culture—from berets and pelota matches to Basque cooking—of this little “country” has cast its spell over the corners of the Earth.

The most popular gateway to the entire region is Biarritz, the “king” of France’s Atlantic coast resorts, whose refinements once attracted the crowned heads of Europe. It was Empress Eugénie who gave Biarritz its coming-out party, transforming it, in the era of Napoléon III, from a simple bourgeois town into an international glitterati favorite. Today, after a round of sightseeing, you can still enjoy the Second Empire trimmings from a perch at the roulette table in the town’s casino. Then work on your suntan at Biarritz’s famous beach or, a few miles away, really bask under the Basque sun at the picturesque port of St-Jean-de-Luz. As for the entire Pays Basque (Basque Country), it’s happily compact: the ocher sands along the Bay of Biscay are less than an hour from the emerald hills of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the Basque Pyrénées.

Heading eastward toward the towering peaks of the central Pyrenean cordillera lies the Béarn region, with its splendid capital city of Pau, while northward lies a must-detour for lovers of the good life: Eugénie-les-Bains, where you can savor every morsel of a Michel Guérard feast at one (or all!) of his magnificently stylish restaurants and hotels. East through the Aubisque Pass, at the Béarn’s eastern limit, is the heart of the Hautes-Pyrénées, where the mountains of Vignemale and Balaïtous compete with the Cirque de Gavarnie, the world’s most spectacular natural amphitheater, centered around a 1,400-foot waterfall. Whether you finish up with a vertiginous Pyrenean hike or choose to pay your respects to the religious shrine at Lourdes, this region will lift your spirits.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Bask in Biarritz: This former fishing village has been trumped by a glitzy Second Empire aura, but you won’t find the bathing beauties and high rollers complaining.

Be charmed by Basque chic: The camera-ready villages of Ainhoa, Sare, and St-Jean-de-Luz show off quirky, colorful, and asymmetrical Basque architecture.

Indulge yourself in Michel Guérard’s Les Prés d’ Eugénie: The co-father (with Paul Bocuse) of nouvelle cuisine still creates glorious meals in tucked-away Eugénie-les-Bains.

Gasp at gorgeous Gavarnie: Victor Hugo called the 1,400-foot-high waterfall here “the greatest architect’s greatest work.”

Take in the view from pretty Pau: With views of the Pyrénées, Pau is the historic capital of Béarn—and regal monuments recall its royal past as the birthplace of King Henri IV.

GETTING ORIENTED

This is the southwestern corner of France’s sprawling “Southwest.” The rolling hills of the Basque provinces stretch from the Atlantic beaches of glittering Biarritz to the first Pyrenean heights: the hills and highlands of Gascony around the city of Pau. These are mere stepping-stones compared to the peaks of the Hautes-Pyrénées, which lie to the east and sit in the center of the towering barrier historically separating the Iberian Peninsula from continental Europe.

WHAT’S WHERE

The Atlantic Pyrénées. From the first important height at La Rhune, towering 2,969 feet over the edge of the Atlantic, the Basque Pyrénées rise eastward through picturesque valleys and villages to the Iparla Ridge above Bidarrai and the range’s first major peak, the 6,617-foot Orhi. The hills cosset cozy villages like Sare and Ainhoa. Colorful architecture and flower-festooned balconies help preserve St-Jean-Pied-de-Port’s charm. Gateway to the Pyrénées, Pau is the most culturally vibrant city in Gascony, with elegant hôtels particuliers and a royal château.

The Hautes-Pyrénées. The Hautes-Pyrénées include the most spectacular natural wonders in the cordillera. Although mountains soar in this region, making travel difficult, the area has always attracted cultural luminaries including Victor Hugo, Montaigne, and Rossini, who came to marvel at the Cirque de Gavarnie, a natural mountain amphitheater. Millions of others are lured here by the healing holy waters of Lourdes.

The Basque Coast. Colorful villages and golden-sand beaches punctuated with brightly painted fishing boats keep your eyes busy with their competing palettes on the lush Basque Coast, where world-class chefs make the most of local produce. Bayonne as the graceful French provincial city, Biarritz as the imperial beach domain, and St-Jean-de-Luz as the vibrant fishing port all play their parts to perfection along this southwestern coastline backed by the soft green pastures of the Basque hills.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

The Basque Country is known for its wet climate, but when the skies clear the hillsides are so green and the air so clean that the weather gods are immediately forgiven. Late fall and winter are generally rainier than early autumn or late spring. The Pyrenean heights such as Brèche de Roland and Gavarnie, on the other hand, may only be approached safely in midsummer. Treacherous ice and snow plaques can be present even in mid-June, and summer blizzards remain a risk. Climate change may be shrinking glaciers and extending the safety period in the high Pyrénées, but freak conditions—the reverse side of the same coin—may be creating even more unpredictable and dangerous weather patterns. Beach weather is from May through September, and sometimes lasts until mid-October’s été de la Saint-Martin (Indian summer). Skiing conditions are reliable from December through March and, on occasion, into April.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Traveling west to east, with the sun behind you as the shadows lengthen, is the best way to approach this part of the Pyrénées. Bayonne is the natural starting point, at the mouth of the Atlantic Pyrenean watershed, with the Basque Museum as an instructive primer for the culture of the villages you are about to go through. Biarritz and St-Jean-de-Luz offer opportunities for beach time and glamour. The picturesque villages of Sare and Ainhoa guide you into the mountains and valleys, threaded by rivers flowing into the Nive. St-Jean-Pied-de-Port is a Pyrenean hub from which Eugénie-les-Bains is a short detour before continuing east to Pau, the Hautes-Pyrénées, and their crowning glory, Gavarnie.

Wherever you head, take your time: this region’s proximity to Spain comes to life in its architecture, in the expressive Midi accent, which turns the word demain (tomorrow) into “demaing,” and the slow-paced lifestyle.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

A car is best for getting around the Basque Coast and the Pyrénées. The mountain roads are good, albeit slow—60 kph–70 kph (37 mph–43 mph) on average. But the A64 highway from Bayonne to Pau is fast and has spectacular views of the Pyrénées. Train and bus connections will get you from Bayonne to Biarritz and up to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port easily; moving east, Pau and Lourdes are readily accessible as well. Public transportation to less pivotal destinations, however, can entail much waiting and loss of valuable time.

Air Travel

Air France (www.airfrance.com) serves the Aéroport de Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne with six direct daily flights from Paris; easyJet (www.easyjet.com) also operates one flight per day from the capital, and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) offers a London link twice per week. Once you arrive, Chronoplus buses will take you to train stations in Biarritz (10 mins) or Bayonne (30 mins) for €1. Air France lands another six direct daily flights from Paris at the Aéroport Pau-Pyrénées; the airport is also connected to Lyon, Marseille, and several other cities each day by HOP! (www.hop.fr). You’ll pay €1 for the half-hour ride from the airport into town.

Aéroport de Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne. | Anglet | 05–59–43–83–83 | www.biarritz.aeroport.fr.

Aéroport Pau-Pyrénées. | 05–59–33–33–00 | www.pau.aeroport.fr.

Bus Travel

Numerous private bus companies are consolidated into regional bus networks. Key ones include Transports-64 (covering the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department from Lourdes to the coast), Chronoplus (covering the Bayonne-Anglet-Biarritz greater metropolitan area), and R.D.T. L. (covering the Landes department). Where the regional network buses don’t go, the trusty SNCF national bus lines occasionally do (www.voyages-sncf.com). Local tourist offices and train stations can provide you with schedules and network maps. When traveling by bus in summer, beware of peak-hour traffic on roads, which can mean both delays and fewer seats on buses.

Bus Information

Chronoplus. | Bayonne | 05–59–52–59–52 | www.chronoplus.eu.

R.D.T.L. Buses. | Pl. Pereire, | Bayonne | 05–59–55–17–59 | www.rdtl.fr.

Transports-64. | Bayonne | 08–00–64–24–64 | www.transports64.fr.

Car Travel

The A64 connects Pau and Bayonne in less than an hour, and the A63 runs up and down the Atlantic coast. The N134-E7 connects Bordeaux, Pau, and Spain via the Col de Somport and Jaca. The D918 along the Nive River from Saint-Jean-de-Luz to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port is a pretty drive, continuing on (as the D918, D919, and D933) through the Béarn countryside to Pau. Roads are occasionally slow and tortuous in the more mountainous areas, but valley and riverside roads are generally quite smooth and fast.

Train Travel

High-speed TGV trains link Paris to Bayonne (4 hrs, 30 mins), to Biarritz (5 hrs, 15 mins), and to Pau (5 hrs, 34 mins). Biarritz’s La Négresse station has trains connecting with Bayonne, Bordeaux, St-Jean-de-Luz, and many other destinations. Bayonne and Toulouse are connected by SNCF trains via Pau, Tarbes, and Lourdes. Bayonne also has links to other popular locales (like St-Jean-de-Luz), and local trains from here travel into the Atlantic Pyrénées, a slow but picturesque trip. Hendaye is connected to Bayonne and to San Sebastián via the famous topo (mole) train, so called for the number of tunnels it passes through.

Train Information

Gare Ville Bayonne. | Quartier St-Esprit, | Bayonne | www.gares-en-mouvement.com.

Gare Ville Biarritz La Négresse. | 18 allée Moura, | Biarritz | www.gares-en-mouvement.com.

SNCF. | 3635 €0.34 per min | www.voyages-sncf.com.

TGV. | www.tgv.com.

RESTAURANTS

Dining in the regions of the Basque Country is invariably a feast, whether it’s seafood, local lamb, or the famous migratory palombes (wood pigeons). Dishes to keep in mind include ttoro (hake stew), pipérade (tomatoes and green peppers cooked in olive oil, and often scrambled eggs), bakalao al pil-pil (cod cooked in oil “al pil-pil”—the bubbling sound the fish makes as it creates its own sauce), marmitako (tuna and potato stew), and zikiro (roast lamb). Home of the eponymous sauce béarnaise, Béarn is also famous for its garbure, a thick vegetable soup with confit de canard (preserved duck) and fèves (broad beans).

Civets (stews) made with isard (wild goat) or wild boar are other specialties. La Bigorre and the Hautes-Pyrénées are equally dedicated to garbure, though they may call their version soupe paysanne bigourdane (Bigorran peasant soup) to distinguish it from that of their neighbors. The Basque Coast’s traditional fresh seafood is unsurpassable every day of the week except Monday, the fleet having stayed in port on Sunday. The inland Basque Country and upland Béarn are famous for game in fall and winter and lamb in spring. In the Hautes-Pyrénées, the higher altitude makes power dining attractive and thick bean soups and wild-boar stews come into their own.

HOTELS

From palatial beachside splendor in Biarritz to simple mountain auberges in the Basque country to Pyrenean refuges in the Hautes-Pyrénées, the gamut of lodging in southwest France is conveniently broad. Be sure to book summertime accommodations on the Basque Coast well in advance, particularly for August. In the Hautes-Pyrénées, only Gavarnie during its third-week-of-July music festival presents a potential booking problem. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

The Atlantic and Hautes Pyrénées region has three main tourist offices. For Biarritz and France’s Big Sur in the southwest corner of the country, contact the Comité Régional du Tourisme d’Aquitaine. For Pau and the Basque and Béarnaise Pyrénées, contact the Comité Départemental du Tourisme Béarn Pays Basque in Pau. For Gavarnie and the Hautes Pyrénées contact the Hautes Pyrénées Tourist Office in Tarbes.

Contacts

Comité Départemental du Tourisme Béarn Pays Basque. | Délegation Béarn,22 ter, Rue J.J. de Monaix, | Pau | 05–59–30–01–30 | www.tourisme64.com.

Comité Régional du Tourisme d’Aquitaine. | 4/5 pl. Jean Jaurès, | Bordeaux–Cedex | 05–56–01–70–00 | www.tourisme-aquitaine.fr.

Hautes Pyrénées Tourisme. | 11 rue Gaston Manent, BP 9502, | Tarbes | 05–62–56–70–65 | www.tourisme-hautes-pyrenees.com.

TOUR OPTIONS

Passion Côte Basque organizes tours of Bayonne, Biarritz, the Basque Coast, and the Basque Pyrénées from its base in Biarritz. Guides Culturels Pyrénéens, in Tarbes, arranges many tours—including explorations themed around subjects such as cave painting, art and architecture, Basque sports, hiking, and horseback riding.

Contacts

Guides Culturels Pyrénéens. | BP 50010, | Lourdes | 05–62–44–15–44 | www.guides-culturels-pyreneens.com.

Passion Côte Basque. | 33 rue de Madrid, | Biarritz | 05–59–24–36–05 | www.passion-cote-basque.com.

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Bayonne | Biarritz | St-Jean-de-Luz

La Côte Basque—a world unto itself with its own language, sports, and folklore—occupies France’s southwest corner along the Spanish border. Inland, the area is laced with rivers: the Bidasoa River border with Spain marks the southern edge of the region, and the Adour River, on its northern edge, separates the Basque Country from the neighboring Les Landes. The Nive River flows through the heart of the verdant Basque littoral to join the Adour at Bayonne, and the smaller Nivelle River flows into the Bay of Biscay at St-Jean-de-Luz. Bayonne, Biarritz, and St-Jean-de-Luz are the main towns along the coast, all less than 40 km (25 miles) from the first peak of the Pyrénées.

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BAYONNE

184 km (114 miles) south of Bordeaux, 295 km (183 miles) west of Toulouse.

Located at the confluence of the Adour and Nive rivers, Bayonne was a Roman castrum (fort) in the 4th century and an English colony from 1151 to 1451: today it is the proud capital of the Pays Basque. Even though its port is spread out along an estuary some 5 km (3 miles) inland from the sea, two rivers and five bridges lend this small city a definite maritime feel. From the elegant 18th-century homes along rue des Prébendés to the 17th-century ramparts and the market stalls of place des Halles, it is a city worth wandering. If you want an overview, the Bayonne tourist office leads two-hour, English-language tours of the city every Saturday at 10 am in July and August (€6).

Getting Here

Air France, Ryanair, and easyJet planes land at the Aéroport de Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne; a shuttle bus runs from there to the central train station (30 mins, €1). Four daily TGV trains connect Bayonne and Paris (4 hrs, 30 mins; €65). Train connections from Bayonne include St-Jean-de-Luz (28 mins, €5), St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (1 hr, 26 mins; €9.50), Pau (1 hr, 33 mins; €17), Lourdes (1 hr, 44 mins; €24), Bordeaux (1 hr, 39 mins; €24.50), and Toulouse (3 hrs, 21 mins; €43.50). Frequent daily trains also make the short jaunt to Biarritz (8 mins, €2.80). The Chronoplus bus network connects Bayonne with towns on the French Basque Coast, notably Biarritz (15 mins, €1) and Anglet (20 mins, €1).

Visitor Information

Bayonne Tourist Office | Pl. des Basques | 08–20–42–64–64 | www.bayonne-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale.

The Cathédrale (called both Ste-Marie and Notre-Dame) was built mainly in the 13th century and is one of France’s southernmost examples of Gothic architecture. Its 13th- to 14th-century cloisters are among its best features. | Pl. de la Cathédrale | 05–59–59–17–82 | www.cathedrale-bayonne.fr | Free | Daily 8–12:30 and 3–7.

Musée Basque.

The handsomely designed and appointed Musée Basque on the right bank of the Nive offers an ethnographic history of the Basque Country and culture. | 37 quai des Corsaires | 05–59–59–08–98 | www.museebasque.com | €6.50; free Wed. evenings 6:30–9:30 | July and Aug., daily 10–6:30 (until 9:30 Wed.); Sept.–June, Tues.–Sun. 10–6:30 (until 9:30 Wed.).

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Bayonnais.

BISTRO | Next to the Musée Basque, with a dining terrace over the river Nive just short of its confluence with the Adour, this unassuming and unpretentious local favorite serves honest Basque cuisine in a traditional setting. The agneau de lait (suckling lamb) and the chipirons en persillade (cuttlefish in chopped parsley and garlic) are classics. | Average main: €18 | 38 quai des Corsaires | 05–59–25–61–19 | Sept.–mid-July, closed Sun. and Mon.

L’Auberge du Cheval Blanc.

FRENCH | Run by the Tellechea family since 1715, this former stagecoach inn in the Petit Bayonne quarter serves a combination of cuisine du terroir (home-style regional cooking) and original recipes in contemporary surroundings. Michelin-starred chef Jean-Claude Tellechea showcases fresh fish as well as upland specialties from the Basque hills, sometimes joining the two in dishes such as the merlu rôti aux oignons et jus de volaille (hake roasted in onions with essence of poultry). TIP The Irouléguy wines offer the best value on the wine list. Be sure to be there on time: lunch ends at 1:30. | Average main: €30 | 68 rue Bourgneuf | 05–59–59–01–33 | www.cheval-blanc-bayonne.com | Closed Mon.; no lunch Sat.; no dinner Sun.

Le Grand Hôtel.

HOTEL | A great location at a reasonable price is the major draw at this Best Western property; just down the street from the Château-Vieux, it occupies an 1835 building and offers an old-world feel two steps from everything you’ll want to see in town. Refurbished guest rooms come in a variety of styles and sizes, and feature contemporary perks like a/c and Wi-Fi. Pros: prime location; triple and quad rooms good for families; helpful staff. Cons: pricey breakfast; vintage elevator not everyone’s cup of tea. | Rooms from: €124 | 21 rue Thiers | 05–59–59–62–00 | www.legrandhotelbayonne.com | 57 rooms | No meals.

BIARRITZ

8 km (5 miles) south of Bayonne; 190 km (118 miles) southwest of Bordeaux; 50 km (31 miles) north of San Sebastián, Spain.

Biarritz may no longer lay claim to the title “the resort of kings and the king of resorts,” but there’s no shortage of deluxe hotel rooms or bow-tied gamblers ambling over to the casino. The city first rose to prominence when rich and royal Carlist exiles from Spain set up shop here in 1838. Unable to visit San Sebastián—just across the border on the Basque Coast—they sought a summer watering spot as close as possible to their old stomping ground. Among the exiles was Eugénie de Montijo, destined to become empress of France. As a child, she vacationed here with her family, fell in love with the place, and then set about building her own palace once she married Napoléon III. During the 14 summers she spent here, half the crowned heads of Europe (including Queen Victoria and Edward VII) were guests in Eugénie’s villa: a gigantic wedding-cake edifice, now the Hôtel du Palais, on Biarritz’s main seaside promenade. Whether you consider the bombastic architectural legacies of that era an eyesore or an eyeful, the builders at least had the courage of their convictions. If you want to rediscover yesteryear Biarritz, start by exploring the narrow streets around the cozy 16th-century church of St-Martin.

Getting Here and Around

The Aéroport de Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne receives flights from Air France, Ryanair, and easyJet; a shuttle bus from the airport takes 10 minutes and costs €1. TGV trains connect Paris and Biarritz (5 hrs, 15 mins; €88) six times daily. Biarritz’s La Négresse train station has rail connections with St-Jean-de-Luz (11 mins, €3.50), Bordeaux (1 hr, 50 mins; €25), and many other places, including San Sebastián, Spain, via Hendaye (50 mins, €7.50). Multiple trains also arrive daily from Bayonne (8 mins, €2.80) and Pau (1½ hrs, €19). The station is 3 km (2 miles) southeast of the city core, so catch bus No. 2 to reach the centrally located Hôtel de Ville, near the main beach. Chronoplus buses serve the Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne area (€1); Transports-64 buses travel regularly to and from other Basque towns, including St-Jean-de-Luz.

Visitor Information

Biarritz Tourist Office. | 1 sq. d’Ixelles | 05–59–22–37–10 | www.biarritz.fr.

EXPLORING

Église Orthodoxe Russe.

Eugénie and her Carlist compatriots weren’t the only exiled royals to arrive in Biarritz. White Russians found refuge, too, turning the city into their Yalta-by-the-Atlantic. Witness the Église Orthodoxe Russe, a Byzantine-style church they built adjacent to the Grand Plage in the early 1890s. | 8 rue de l’Impératrice | 05–59–24–16–74 | nevski.chez.com | Weekends and Thurs. 3:30–6.

La Chapelle Impériale.

If you wish to pay your respects to the Empress Eugénie, visit La Chapelle Impériale, which she had built in 1864 to venerate a figure of a Mexican Black Virgin from Guadalupe (and perhaps to expiate her sins for furthering her husband’s tragic folly of putting Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlotta on the “throne” of Mexico). The style is a charming hybrid of Roman-Byzantine and Hispano-Mauresque. | Rue Pellot | 05–59–22–37–10 | July and Aug., Tues., Thurs., and Sat. 3–7; call for hrs Sept.–June.

La Grande Plage.

Biarritz’s urban beaches are understandably popular—particularly the fine, sandy strands of La Grande Plage and the neighboring Plage Miramar, both set amid craggy natural beauty. A walk along the seaside promenade gives a view of the foaming breakers that beat constantly upon the sands, giving the name Côte d’Argent (Silver Coast) to this part of France’s Basque Coast. As you drink in that view, try to imagine the gilded days when the fashionable set used to stroll here in Worth gowns and picture hats.

Place Ste-Eugénie.

During Biarritz’s original heyday, the elite often repaired to the terraced restaurants of festive Place Ste-Eugénie, still considered the social center of town. | Pl. Ste-Eugénie.

WHERE TO EAT

Chez Albert.

SEAFOOD | The Port des Pêcheurs (Fishing Port) provides a tantalizing glimpse of old Biarritz, plus some tantalizing dining options. Water views and salty harborside aromas make Chez Albert’s hearty fish and seafood offerings all the more irresistible. But beware, this easygoing eatery is definitely on the tourist radar—it’s nearly impossible to find a seat on the terrace in summer. | Average main: €24 | 51 bis Allée Port des Pêcheurs | 05–59–24–43–84 | www.chezalbert.fr | Closed Nov. 25–Feb. 10, and Wed. except in July and Aug.

L’Atelier.

FRENCH | Alexandre Bousquet and Isabelle Caulier’s hot restaurant in the Quartier Saint-Charles, a few steps from the Grande Plage, is the dernier cri in a town surrounded by, but not known for, great cuisine. Meals are stunningly presented in a setting that is at once classic and contemporary—expect dishes like tuna tartare et croustillant (raw and crunchy) with mustard sauce, and specialties like pigeonneau (wood pigeon). The wine list includes selections from Bordeaux and Spain’s Ribera de Duero, exemplifying the couple’s savoir faire in the art of food and wine pairing. TIP The lunch menu (served Thursday and Friday in summer) is one of the best bargains in Biarritz. But culinary experiment is the catchword here, so traditionalists may prefer the crêpes and pizza elsewhere. | Average main: €28 | 18 rue Bergerie | 05–59–22–09–37 | www.latelierbiarritz.com | July and Aug. closed Sun., no lunch Mon.–Wed. or Sat.; rest of yr closed Sun. and Mon.

WHERE TO STAY

Château de Brindos.

HOTEL | Take Jazz Age glamour, Renaissance stonework, and the most luxe of guest rooms, add fine dining, and you have this Pays Basque Xanadu—a large, rambling, white-stone manor topped with a Spanish belvedere tower set 4 km (2½ miles) east of Biarritz in Anglet. This was originally the home of Sir Reginald Wright, a host-with-the-most, whose great soirées held here in the 1920s and ‘30s are conjured up in the main salon. In recent years, interiors have been lovingly restored by Serge Blanco, who has managed to honor the mansion’s history while installing state-of-the-art technology and comfort. In summer dine out under the willows at the edge of the water at the grand restaurant (closed Monday, no dinner Sunday). Pros: flawless performance by staff; excellent dining; ultimate comfort. Cons: fitness facilities limited; addictively grande luxe; difficult to leave. | Rooms from: €350 | 1 allée du Château | Anglet | 05–59–23–89–80 | www.chateaudebrindos.com | 24 rooms, 5 suites | Closed 2 wks in Feb./Mar. | No meals.

Hôtel du Palais.

HOTEL | Set on the beach, this majestic, colonnaded redbrick hotel with an immense driveway, lawns, and a grand semicircular dining room, still exudes an opulent, aristocratic air, no doubt imparted by Empress Eugénie who built it in 1855 as her Biarritz palace. Napoleonic frippery is everywhere in the public areas, but don’t go looking for it in the more standard guest rooms, none of which have sea views. Still, the lobby alone may be worth the price of admission. The three restaurants—Hippocampe (where lunch is served beside the curved pool above the Atlantic), the regal dinner spot Villa Eugénie, and La Rotonde (with its spectacular soaring columns, gilt trim, and sea views)—are all creatively directed by star chef Jean-Marie Gautier. Don’t miss out on his gazpacho de homard au piment d’Espelette (lobster gazpacho with Espelette red pepper). Pros: historic grounds; gastronomical nirvana; perfect location. Cons: staff obsessed with hotel rules; slightly stuffy; magisterially expensive. | Rooms from: €560 | 1 av. de l’Impératrice | 05–59–41–64–00 | www.hotel-du-palais.com | 122 rooms, 30 suites | No meals.

La Ferme de Biarritz.

B&B/INN | For those in search of rustic and affordable quarters near swank Biarritz, this beautifully restored 17th-century farmhouse offers the best of both worlds—particularly delightful are the guest rooms’ antique furnishings, which might have been used by Empress Eugénie herself. Rooms are on the small side but the beds are adequate. The walk into town promotes fitness as well as appetite, while the nearby Ilbarritz golf course (9 holes) is a handy resource. If you’re booking in summer be prepared to stay the obligatory one week minimum, otherwise it’s a two-day minimum stay Pros: near the beach; cute dormered rooms with antique furniture; breakfast in the garden or in front of the fire. Cons: small rooms; no restaurant. | Rooms from: €90 | 15 rue Harcet | 05–59–23–40–27 | www.fermedebiarritz.com | 5 rooms, 1 studio, 1 apartment | Closed Jan. | No meals.

Maïtagaria.

HOTEL | This typical Basque townhouse 400 yards from the beach is a handy and comfortable family operation that makes you feel more like a guest in a private home than a hotel patron. The main drawing room is friendly and well-bred, replete with comfy chairs, yellow drapes, and a fine fireplace, and it sweetly overlooks the lush patio, which is a fine breakfast spot in summer. Guest rooms are efficient and well equipped. Pros: good price and location; intimacy; leafy garden. Cons: somewhat cramped quarters; limited soundproofing (and thus privacy). | Rooms from: €99 | 34 av. Carnot | 05–59–24–26–65 | www.hotel-maitagaria.com | 15 rooms | Closed 3 wks around Christmas | No meals.

Windsor.

HOTEL | Built in the 1920s, close to the casino and overlooking the Grand Plage, this service-oriented hotel has crisp, contemporary accommodations with light walls and linens offset by bright splashes of color; rooms with sea views cost about twice as much as the larger ones facing the inner courtyard and street. The restaurant, Le Galion, serves fine food (try the terrine de foie gras with Armagnac or the crab-stuffed ravioli) and delivers panoramic views of the beach. Pros: central beachfront location; sea views if you can get them; excellent restaurant; expert service. Cons: sea views cost double; street rooms get some noise. | Rooms from: €140 | 19 bd. du Général-de-Gaulle | 05–59–24–08–52 | www.hotelwindsorbiarritz.com | 44 rooms, 4 suites | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Casino de Biarritz.

At the glitzy Casino de Biarritz you can play the slots and blackjack or just chill while channeling your inner James Bond. It’s open daily from 10 am until 4 am. | 1 av. Edouard-VII | 05–59–22–77–77 | www.lucienbarriere.com/fr/casino/biarritz/accueil.html.

L’Arena Café.

This pretty spot at the edge of the beach serves fine dinners and morphs into a late-night dance club around 11 pm. | Esplanade du Port Vieux | 05–59–24–88–98 | www.arenacafe-biarritz.com.

Le Carré Coast.

Sip cocktails while listening to soul, jazz, and house music in a glamorous design setting close to the surf. | 24 av. Édouard-VII | 05–59–24–64–64 | www.lecarrecoast.com.

Le Caveau.

There’s guaranteed action every night at Le Caveau—a mythical Biarritz dance club. | 4 rue Gambetta | 05–59–24–16–17.

Le Playboy.

In season, the surfing crowd fills Le Playboy. | 15 pl. Georges Clémenceau | 05–59–24–38–46.

Le Temps d’Aimer.

In September the three-week Le Temps d’Aimer festival presents dance performances, from classical to hip-hop, in a range of venues throughout the city. They’re often held at the Théâtre Gare du Midi, a renovated railway station. Troupes such as the Ballets Biarritz, Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo, and leading étoiles from other companies take to the stage in an ambitious schedule of events, with admission generally costing about €20. | www.letempsdaimer.com.

Newquay.

This midtown Irish pub is popular with surfers. | 20 pl. Georges Clemenceau | 05–59–22–19–90.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Biarritz Athletic Club.

Instruction in every type of Basque pelota—including main nue (bare-handed), pala (paddle), chistera (with a basketlike racquet), and cesta punta (another game played with the same curved basket)—is available at the Biarritz Athletic Club. It also organizes the Biarritz Masters Jai-Alai tournament in July, as well as Golden Glove boxing competitions. | Parc des Sports d’Aguilera, Fronton Euskal Jai | 05–59–23–91–09 | www.cesta-punta.com.

Golf de Biarritz Le Phare.

Greens fees at the 18-hole, par-69 Golf de Biarritz Le Phare course start at €75 in the height of summer. | 2 av. Edith-Cavell | 05–59–03–71–80 | www.golfbiarritz.com.

Parc des Sports d’Aguilera.

This stadium is the fiefdom of the champion rugby club Biarritz Olympique, winner of the 2012 European Challenge. Call for information or check the website for scheduled matches. | 05–59–01–64–79 | www.bo-pb.com.

Biarritz Surfing

For wave action in Europe’s hot-cool surfing center, head to the coast north of Biarritz and the towns of Anglet and Hossegor. La Barre beach doubles as the hangout for dedicated surfers who live out of their vans. On the southern end (by the Anglet-Biarritz border) are surf shops, snack bars, and one boulangerie. These give the main beach drag, Chambre d’Amour, a decidedly California flair. If you’re coming by train, get off in Bayonne or Biarritz and transfer to a Chronoplus bus bound for Anglet. The main tourist office (1 av. de la Chambre d’Amour | 05–59–03–77–01 | www.ville-anglet.fr) is closed off-season. Hossegor, 20 km (12 miles) north of Bayonne, hosts the Rip Curl Pro and the ASO Junior Surf Tour Championships every August as well as the ASP World Tour competition in September.

ST-JEAN-DE-LUZ

23 km (16 miles) southwest of Bayonne, 54 km (32 miles) northwest of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

Back in 1660, Louis XIV chose this tiny fishing village as the place to marry the Infanta Maria Teresa of Spain. Ever since, travelers have journeyed here to enjoy the unique charms of St-Jean. Along the coast between Biarritz and the Spanish border, it remains memorable for its colorful harbor, old streets, curious church, and elegant beach. Its iconic port shares a harbor with its sister town Ciboure, on the other side of the Nivelle River. The glorious days of whaling and cod fishing are long gone, but some historic multihued houses around the docks are evocative enough.

Getting Here

Frequent train service is available from Biarritz (11 mins, €3.50) and Bayonne (28 mins, €5). Regional Transports-64 buses also arrive at place Maréchal Foch by the tourist office. Though slower than the train and only slightly less expensive, buses give you more beach-town options.

Visitor Information

St-Jean-de-Luz Tourist Office. | Pl. Foch | 05–59–26–03–16 | www.saint-jean-de-luz.com.

EXPLORING

Église St-Jean-Baptiste.

The marriage of the Sun King and the Infanta took place in 1660 in the church of St-Jean-Baptiste. The marriage tied the knot, so to speak, on the Pyrénées Treaty signed by French chief minister Mazarin on November 7, 1659, ending Spanish hegemony in Europe. Note the church’s unusual wooden galleries lining the walls, creating a theaterlike effect. Fittingly, St-Jean-Baptiste hosts a “Musique en Côte Basque” festival of early and Baroque music during the first two weeks of September. | Pl. des Corsaires | Daily 9–noon and 2–6.

Maison de l’Infante (Princess’s House).

The Louis XIII–style Maison de l’Infante, between the harbor and the bay, is where Maria Teresa of Spain— accompanied by her mother, Queen Anne of Austria, and a healthy entourage of courtiers—stayed prior to her marriage to Louis XIV. | Quai de l’Infante | €2.50 | June–Oct. 15 and Oct. 25–Nov. 11, Tues.–Sat. 11–12:30 and 2:30–6:30.

Maison Louis-XIV.

Take a tour of the twin-tower Maison Louis-XIV. Built as the Château Lohobiague, it housed the French king during his nuptials and is austerely decorated in 17th-century Basque fashion. | Pl. Louis XIV | 05–59–26–27–58 | www.maison-louis-xiv.fr | €6 | July and Aug., Tues.–Sun. 10:30–12:30 and 2:30–6:30; Sept., Oct., and June, Tues.–Sun. visits at 11, 3, 4 and 5; closed Nov.–May, except around Easter with visits Tues.–Sun. at 11, 3 and 4.

Place Louis-XIV.

The tree-lined Place Louis-XIV, alongside the Hôtel de Ville, with its dainty statue of Louis XIV on horseback, is the hub of the town. In summer, concerts are offered on the square, as well as the famous “Toro de fuego” festival, which honors the bull with a parade and a papier-mâché beast.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Chez Pablo.

SEAFOOD | The catch of the day determines the offerings here. Long tables covered with red-and-white tablecloths, benches, and plaster walls give off a casual vibe, but the dishes are often excellent. | Average main: €27 | Rue Mme. Etxeto | 05–59–26–37–81 | No credit cards | Closed Wed. and several wks between Sept. and June.

La Taverne Basque.

BISTRO | This well-known midtown standard is one of the old-faithful dining emporiums, specializing in Basque cuisine with a pronounced maritime emphasis. Try the ttoro (a rich fish, crustacean, potato, and vegetable soup). Perhaps the best stamp of approval is that locals eat here often. | Average main: €18 | 5 rue République | 05–59–26–01–26 | www.latavernebasque.com | Closed Mon., no dinner Sun.

Txalupa.

SEAFOOD | The name is Basque for “skiff” or “small boat,” and you feel like you’re in one when you are this close to the bay—yachts and fishing vessels go about their business just a few yards away. The mixed seafood platter here is legendary, and daily nonstop service from noon to midnight makes it a hard meal to miss. | Average main: €22 | Pl. Louis-XIV | 05–59–51–85–51.

Le Grand Hôtel.

HOTEL | Built in the 1920s and traditionally considered to be St-Jean-de-Luz’s premier hotel, Le Grand offers ocean views, intimacy, plus a general sense of being where the action is; redesigned rooms in pastels, wood, and marble, and the unbeatable location at the northern end of the St-Jean-de-Luz beach seal the deal. Frequented by high rollers and the well-to-do from around the globe, it’s the place to stay in this colorful beach town. Pros: views; comforts; action center. Cons: expensive; not too relaxing unless your pockets are très deep; slightly self-absorbed staff. | Rooms from: €345 | 43 bd. Thiers | 05–59–26–35–36 | www.luzgrandhotel.fr | 49 rooms, 3 suites | Closed 1 wk around Jan 1. | No meals.

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Sare | Ainhoa | St-Jean-Pied-de-Port | Sauveterre-de-Béarn | Eugénie-les-Bains | Pau | Lourdes | Cauterets | Gavarnie

The Atlantic Pyrénées extend eastward from the ocean to the Col du Pourtalet, and encompass Béarn and the mountainous part of the Basque Country. Watching the Pyrénées grow from rolling green foothills in the west to jagged limestone peaks in the Béarn to glacier-studded granite massifs in the Hautes-Pyrénées makes for a dramatic progression of scenery. The Atlantic Pyrénées’ first major height is at La Rhune (2,969 feet), known as the Balcon du Côte Basque (Balcony of the Basque Coast). The highest Basque peak is at Orhi (6,617 feet); the Béarn’s highest is Pic d’Anie (8,510 feet). Not until Balaïtous (10,375 feet) and Vignemale (10,883 feet), in the Hautes-Pyrénées, does the altitude surpass the 10,000-foot mark. Starting east from St-Jean-de-Luz up the Nivelle River, a series of villages—including Sare, Ainhoa, and Bidarrai—are picturesque stepping stones leading to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port and on into the Hautes-Pyrénées.

This journey ends in Pau, in the Béarn region, far from the Pays Basque. The Béarn is akin in temperament to the larger region that enfolds it, Gascony. Gascony may be purse-poor, but it is certainly rich in scenery and lore. Its proud and touchy temperament is typified in literature by the character d’Artagnan in Dumas’s The Three Musketeers, and in history by the lords of the château of Pau. An inscription over the château’s entrance, Touchez-y, si tu l’oses—“Touch this if you dare”—was left by the golden-haired Gaston Phoebus (1331–91), 11th count of Foix and viscount of Béarn, a volatile arts lover with a nasty temper who murdered his brother and his only son.

Farther east, past Lourdes, the Hautes-Pyrénées include the highest and most spectacular natural wonders in the cordillera: the legendary Cirque de Gavarnie (a natural mountain amphitheater), the Vignemale and Balaïtous peaks, and the Brèche de Roland are the star attractions. Trans-Pyrenean hikers (and drivers) generally prefer moving from west to east for a number of reasons, especially the excellent light prevailing in the late afternoon and evening during the prime months of May to October.

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SARE

14 km (8 miles) southeast of St-Jean-de-Luz, 9 km (5½ miles) west of Ainhoa.

The much-prized and picturesque village of Sare, described by author Pierre Loti in his Ramuntxo as a virtually autonomous Eden, is built around a large fronton, or backboard, where a permanent pelota game rages around the clock. Not surprisingly, the Hôtel de Ville offers a permanent exhibition on Pelote Basque (July and Aug., daily 9–1 and 2–6:30; Sept.–June, daily 3–6). Sare was a busy smuggling hub throughout the 19th century, but today’s visitors are drawn by lovely sights, not illicit activities: chief among them are a collection of wood-beam and whitewashed Basque houses, and the 16th-century late-Romanesque church with its triple-decker interior.

Getting Here

Buses leaving from the train station in St-Jean-de-Luz travel to Sare (30 mins, €3.50) and neighboring villages.

Visitor Information

Sare Tourist Office. | Mairie | 05–59–54–20–14 | www.sare.fr.

Hiking the Pyrénées

Supping on hearty regional cuisine makes perfect sense after a day of hiking the Pyrénées, which are best explored on foot. Day trips to La Rhune overlooking Biarritz and the Basque Coast or the walk up to Biriatou from the beach at Hendaye are great ways to get to know the countryside. Hiking the Pyrénées end-to-end is a 43-day trip. The GR (Grande Randonnée) 10, a trail signed by discreet red-and-white paint markings, runs from the Atlantic at Hendaye to Banyuls-sur-Mer on the Mediterranean, through villages and mountains, with refuges along the way.

The HRP (Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne, or High Pyrenean Hike) follows terrain in France and Spain irrespective of borders. Local trails are well indicated, with blue or yellow markings. Some classic walks in the Pyrénées include the Iparla Ridge walk between Bidarrai and St-Étienne-de-Baïgorry, the Santiago de Compostela Trail’s dramatic St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles walk over the Pyrénées, and the Holçarté Gorge walk between Larrau and Ste-Engrâce. Get trail maps at local tourist offices.

EXPLORING

More than a dozen tiny chapels sprinkled around Sare were built as ex-votos by seamen who survived Atlantic storms. The town also has several interesting buildings constructed in the 19th century when it was a hot spot for smugglers.

Église Saint-Martin de Sare.

One of the Labourd province’s prettiest churches, Église Saint-Martin de Sare was built in the 16th-century and enlarged in the 17th with a triple-decker set of galleries. Parish priest Pierre Axular ranks among the great early authors in the Basque language. His tomb is under the bell tower with an epitaph by Prince Bonaparte: “Every hour wounds; the last sends you to your tomb.” | Le Bourg | €3 | Tours Tues. at 2:30.

Grottes de Sare.

Follow the Sare Valley up to the panoramic Col de Lizarrieta and the Grottes de Sare. Just outside these huge caves, you can learn about the Basque region’s culture and millennia-long history at the Musée Ethnographique (Ethnographic Museum); then take a multilingual guided tour that leads 1 km (½ mile) underground to see a subterranean son-et-lumière (sound-and-light) show. | 05–59–54–21–88 | www.grottesdesare.fr | €8.50 | Nov.–mid-Apr., weekdays 2–5, weekends 1–5; mid-Apr.–July and Sept., daily 10–6; Aug., daily 10–7; Oct., daily 10–5.

Musée du Gâteau Basque.

This sweet museum traces the evolution of the most famous of all Basque pastries; call ahead for a schedule of workshops and baking classes. | Maison Haranea, Quartier Lehenbiscay | 05–59–54–22–09 | www.legateaubasque.com | €7.50 | Daily 9–1 and 2–6:30.

Ortillopitz.

Take a guided tour of Ortillopitz, a vintage Basque country manor. Its typical architecture and traditional furnishings give a glimpse into 17th-century farm life. TIP The rural vistas are especially lovely. | 05–59–85–91–92 | www.ortillopitz.com | €9 | Tours: Apr. 13–July 11, weekdays 2:15, 3:30, and 4:45, Sun. 3:30; July 13–Aug. 22, weekdays 10:45, noon, 2:15, 3:30, 4:45, and 6, Sun. 2:15, 3:30, 4:45, and 6; Aug. 24–Sept. 19, weekdays 2:15, 3:30, 4:45, Sun. 2:15, 3:30, 4:45; Sept. 21–Oct. 17, Sun.–Fri. 3:30.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Petit Train de la Rhune.

Not much on the Petit Train has changed since its inaugural voyage to the peak of La Rhune on June 30, 1924. Today, passengers still ride in the original varnished cars made of pine and chestnut from Pyrenean forests at the less-than-dizzying speed of 8 kph (5 mph); and, as they ascend, present-day passengers are just as enthralled by the incredible views of the Bay of Biscay and the grassy Basque farmlands below. You can board this high-climbing cogwheel train (one of only three in France) at the Col de St-Ignace, 3.5 km (2.2 miles) west of Sare. | West of Sare on D4, Col de St-Ignace | 05–59–54–20–26 | www.rhune.com | €17 | July and Aug., daily 8:30–5:30; Sept.–June, daily 9:30–11:30 and 2–4 (departures every 35 min).

WHERE TO STAY

Baratxartea.

B&B/INN | This little inn, located 1 km (½ mile) from the center of Sare in one of the town’s prettiest and most ancient quartiers, is a beauty—a 16th-century town house complete with exposed wood-beam framework. Breakfast and the choice of lunch or dinner are included in the room rate. Pros: upland location 20 minutes from beach; personalized family service; two splendid meals included. Cons: can get steamy in the August canicule; annex rooms are less charming and rustic; open windows in farm country attract insects. | Rooms from: €100 | Quartier Ihalar | 05–59–54–20–48 | www.hotel-baratxartea.com | 14 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. | Some meals.

AINHOA

9 km (5½ miles) east of Sare, 31 km (19 miles) northwest of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

The Basque village of Ainhoa, officially selected by the national tourist ministry as one of the prettiest in France, is a showcase for the Labourd region. Established in the 13th century, its little streets are lined with lovely 16th- to 18th-century houses featuring whitewashed walls, flower-filled balconies, brightly painted shutters, and carved master beams. Also of note: the Romanesque church of Notre-Dame de l’Assomption, which has a traditional Basque three-tier wooden interior with carved railings and ancient oak stairs.

Getting Here

Exploring Ainhoa on foot is a pleasure, but you’ll need your own wheels to get to here.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Ithurria.

HOTEL | A registered historic monument, this 17th-century Basque-style building was once a staging post on the fabled pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela, and today it still makes a fitting resting spot if you’re doing a modern version of the pilgrimage or just need a stopover on your way deeper into the mountains. Comfy bedrooms are complemented by wood beams and antique accents; and the lovely garden and outdoor pool are just right for relaxing. The rustic dining room (no lunch Thursday, except in July and August, closed Wednesday) combines inland game and fresh seafood from the Basque Coast in creative ways. Pros: country charm; pretty grounds and pool; cheery family service. Cons: you’ll understand why they call it luggage while hauling your gear from car to room; some room decor undistinguished. | Rooms from: €145 | Rue Principale | 05–59–29–92–11 | www.ithurria.com | 26 rooms, 2 apartments | Closed Nov.–Apr. | No meals.

Oppoca.

B&B/INN | This 17th-century relais, or stagecoach relay station, on Ainhoa’s main square and pelota court is one of the loveliest Basque houses in town, with small but adequate guest rooms. The owners are a convivial group, always ready to share their knowledge about the locals and the locale, and the restaurant serves creative interpretations of traditional Basque specialties. Pros: helpful service; superb fare; historic site. Cons: cramped spaces in some rooms; center of town can be noisy on weekends and holiday eves. | Rooms from: €179 | Pl. du Fronton | 05–59–29–90–72 | www.oppoca.com | 10 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–Feb. | No meals.

Ostapé.

HOTEL | Alain Ducasse may no longer be here, having been driven out by Basque nationalists, but his taste and touch are palpable in the style, the ultra-contemporary equipment and accoutrements, and, especially, in the regional Basque cuisine with international accents at this 100-acre park around a 17th-century farmhouse. Although some of the complex is modern and cold, various rooms and suites remain lovely settings for Basque woodwork, regional textiles, and sleek sculptures. The landscape is superlatively Basque and the nearby Iparla Ridge hike, one of the greatest in the Pyrénées, will keep appetites primed for fine dining. Pros: top comfort in wild setting; refined cuisine; impeccable service. Cons: a tad too tame for true mountaineers; idle and isolated if you’re not a hiker. | Rooms from: €310 | Chahatoa, 3 km (1½ miles) west of Bidarrai | 05–59–37–91–91 | www.ostape.com | 14 suites, 8 duplex apartments | Closed Nov. 15–Apr. 2 | No meals.

ST-JEAN-PIED-DE-PORT

31 km (19 miles) southeast of Ainhoa, 39 km (23 miles) southwest of Sauveterre-de-Béarn.

St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a fortified town on the Nive River, got its name from its position at the foot (pied) of the mountain pass (port) of Roncevaux (Roncesvalles). The pass was the setting for La Chanson de Roland (The Song of Roland), the anonymous 11th-century epic poem considered the true beginning of French literature; and the town itself remains a major stop for pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela. After a tour through the quiet villages of the Bearn countryside, it feels like a frenzied metropolitan center—even in winter. In summer, the bustling center is filled to the gills and the tone is something between exciting and unbearable.

Getting Here

SNCF trains between Bayonne and St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (1 hr, 26 mins; €9.50) depart six times daily in each direction.

Visitor Information

St-Jean-Pied-de-Port Tourist Office. | 14 pl. Charles-de-Gaulle | 05–59–37–03–57 | www.saintjeanpieddeport-paysbasque-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont (Our Lady of the End of the Bridge).

Walk into the old section of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port through the Porte de France, just behind and to the left of the tourist office; climb the steps on the left up to the walkway circling the ramparts, and stroll around to the stone stairway down to the Rue de l’Église. The church of Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont, known for its magnificent doorway, is at the bottom of this cobbled street. The church is a characteristically Basque three-tier structure, designed for women to sit on the ground floor, men in the first balcony, and the choir in the loft above. | Rue de l’Église.

Pont Notre-Dame (Notre-Dame Bridge).

From the Pont Notre-Dame you can watch the wild trout in the Nive (also an Atlantic salmon stream) as they pluck mayflies off the surface. Note that fishing is forbidden in town. Upstream, along the left bank, is another wooden bridge. Cross it and then walk around and back through town, returning to the left bank on the main road.

Rue de la Citadelle.

Several sights of interest line Rue de la Citadelle, including the Maison Arcanzola (Arcanzola House), at No. 32 (1510); the Maison des Évêques (Bishops’ House), at No. 39; and the famous Prison des Évêques (Bishops’ Prison), next door to it. Continuing up you’ll reach the Citadelle itself—a classic Vauban fortress built between 1625 and 1627, now occupied by a school. The views from the top, complete with maps identifying the surrounding heights and valleys, are panoramic. | Rue de la Citadelle.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Les Pyrénées.

FRENCH | A former stagecoach inn on the route to Santiago de Compostela now houses the best restaurant in the Pyrénées. Directed by renowned master chef Firmin Arrambide and his son Philippe, this haute-cuisine address is characterized by refined interpretations of Pays Basque cooking with a focus on Pyrenean delicacies, like trout from the Nive and local wood pigeon. For dessert, the elder Arrambide’s recipe for gâteau Basque has circled the world. TIP After dining, you can bed down in one of the 14 rooms and four suites (€65–€275) at the inn; needless to say, you’ll want to invest in one of the board plans. | Average main: €44 | 19 pl. Charles-de-Gaulle | 05–59–37–01–01 | www.hotel-les-pyrenees.com | Reservations essential | Closed Jan. 5–28 and Nov. 20–Dec. 22; closed Mon. | All meals.

Central Hôtel.

HOTEL | This family-run hotel and restaurant over the Nive is a vintage venue (note the 200-year-old oak staircase)—it’s also the best value in town. The owners speak Basque, Spanish, French, English, and some German, so communicating is rarely a problem. The cuisine is superb, especially the lamb and duck breast (no dinner Monday; closed Tuesday, March–June). Pros: central location, as suggested by the name; personal family service; river sounds and views; excellent cuisine. Cons: creaky bedsprings; can be hot in midsummer; village life starts early and you’re at the heart of it. | Rooms from: €64 | 1 pl. Charles-de-Gaulle | 05–59–37–00–22 | 13 rooms | Closed Dec.–Feb. | No meals.

Gonzo Over Games: Basque Sports

If you are gonzo over games, you’ve come to the right place. Perhaps the best known and most spectacular Basque sport is the ancestral ball game called pelota, a descendant of the medieval jeux de paume (literally, palm games), a fundamental element of rural Basque culture. A Basque village without a fronton (backboard and pelota court) is as unimaginable as an American town lacking a baseball diamond.

There are many versions and variations on this graceful, fast-paced sport, played with the bare hand, wooden bats, or curved basketlike gloves; a real wicker chistera—the wicker bat used in the game—is an interesting souvenir to buy (and makes a very pretty fruit basket, but let no Basque hear that bit of heresy).

Other rural Basque sports include scything, wood-chopping and -sawing, sack hauling, stone lifting, tug-of-war, competitive whaleboat rowing, and, for those who really want to take the weight of the world on their shoulders, orga yoko, or cart lifting—hefting and moving a 761-pound hay wagon.

SAUVETERRE-DE-BÉARN

39 km (23 miles) northeast of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, 92 km (53 miles) southwest of northeast of Eugénie-les-Bains.

Crowned by a Romanesque-evolving-into-Gothic church, a hill here provides storybook perspectives. A sublime cluster of structures—the Gave d’Oloron, the fortified 12th-century drawbridge, the lovely Montréal Tower—fill the foreground, while the Pyrénées rise romantically in the distance.

Getting Here

The easiest way to reach Sauveterre-de-Béarn is by car; alternately, you can take a train to Orthez and catch one of the three daily buses from there (45 mins, €2).

Visitor Information

Sauveterre-de-Béarn Tourist Office. | Mairie, Pl. Royale | 05–59–38–00–33 | www.tourisme-bearn-gaves.com.

EXPLORING

Vieux Pont (Old Bridge).

The bridge, known both as the Vieux Pont and the Pont de la Légende (Bridge of the Legend), is associated with the legend of Sancie, widow of Gaston V de Béarn. Accused of murdering a child after her husband’s death in 1170, Sancie was subjected to the “Judgment of God” and thrown, bound hand and foot, from the bridge by order of her brother, the king of Navarre. When the river carried her safely to the bank, she was deemed exonerated of all charges.

EUGÉNIE-LES-BAINS

92 km (53 miles) northeast of Sauveterre-de-Béarn, 56 km (35 miles) north of Pau.

Empress Eugénie popularized the region’s thermal baths at the end of the 19th century, and in return the villagers named this town after her. Then, in 1973, Michel and Christine Guérard made the village world-famous by putting together one of France’s most fashionable thermal retreats, which became one of the birthplaces of nouvelle cuisine, thanks to the great talents of Chef Michel. Their empire now includes restaurants serving three types of cuisine (minceur, gourmand, and terroir), four places to stay, a cooking school, and a spa.

Getting Here

Neither buses nor trains serve Eugenie-les-Bains. If haven’t rented a car, contact the local tourist office for a list of taxi companies; the fare from Pau (an hour away) is about €100.

Visitor Information

Eugénie-les-Bains Tourist Office. | Pl. Gaston Larrieu | 05–58–51–13–16 | www.tourisme-aire-eugenie.fr.

EXPLORING

Thermes d’Eugénie-les-Bains.

This therapeutic station thermale is certified by the French Ministry of Health to treat digestive, urinary, and metabolic problems, as well as rheumatism. Three-week “cures” are prescribed by doctors and covered by national health insurance. But foreign visitors can sign up for weight-loss retreats or simply enjoy a restorative stint in healing baths filled with 39°C (102°F) water that comes from nearly 1,300 feet below the surface. | 05–58–05–06–06 | www.chainethermale.fr.

WHERE TO STAY

La Maison Rose.

HOTEL | A (relatively) low-cost, low-calorie alternative to famed Les Prés d’Eugénie, Michel and Christine Guérard’s “Pink House” spa beckons with a renovated, super-stylish 18th-century farmhouse adorned with old paintings, rustic antiques, and Pays Basque handicrafts. It’s the kind of retreat that would have delighted Louis XIV’s sober Madame de Maintenon, assuming she had wanted to lose weight. This is, indeed, a serious spa, complete with slimming cures and the most stylish relaxation room in France. There’s no room service—everyone eats in the main dining room, a two-story, beam-ceiling delight. The kitchen’s touch remains an inventive benediction to local produce. Pros: much easier on the wallet; a sybaritically simple spa approach; more relaxed; superb dining without stuffing. Cons: cravings for the full foie-gras treatment next door. | Rooms from: €200 | Rue René Vielle | 05–58–05–06–07 | www.michelguerard.com | 25 rooms, 5 suites | No meals.

Le Logis des Grives.

B&B/INN | With four superb suites for the lucky first-comers, Michel Guérard’s delightfully recreated old coaching inn, set at one end of their Prés d’Eugénie fiefdom, is meant to be a more rustic alternative to their main flagship. At the inn’s restaurant, La Ferme aux Grives, Grandmother’s cooking is given a nouvelle spin, and nearly everything is authentique—even the suckling pig turns on a spit in the fireplace. Nature’s bounty and la cuisine du terroir are the central themes. Inside, your eyes feast on the decor, too: a banquet table is laid out with vegetables and breads, darkened beams cast romantic shadows, and hunting paintings cover the walls. Pros: the rusticity is more relaxing than the full-on Guérard treatment; finest country cooking in the land a few yards away. Cons: slight sense of gated community overprotection; isolated from village life; only for those on an elite budget. | Rooms from: €600 | Rue René Vielle | 05–58–05–06–07 | www.michelguerard.com | 4 suites | Closed Jan. 4–Feb. 12 | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Les Prés d’Eugénie.

HOTEL | Ever since Michel Guérard’s restaurant fired the first shots of the nouvelle revolution in the late 1970s, the excellence of this suave culinary landmark has been a given (so much so that breakfast here outdoes dinner at most other places); hence a visit to Les Prés d’Eugénie remains an important notch on any gourmand’s belt. Thanks to Guérard’s signature flair, cuisine minceur—the slimmer’s dream—collides with the lusty fare of the Landes region (langoustines garnished with foie gras and mesclun greens, lobster with confetti-ed calf’s head). In the lovely Second Empire–style hotel, set in a fine garden, grandeur prevails and rooms are formal. However, rooms in the “annex”—the former 18th-century convent Le Couvent des Herbes—have an understated luxe and look out over the herb garden. To top it all off, the complex includes an excellent spa, dance studio, two pools, and a 9-hole golf course, while “theme” weeks are devoted to cooking, perfumes, wines, or gardening. Pros: Guérard in full; magical cuisine; intelligent and attentive service; range of recreational options. Cons: too beautiful to close your eyes and go to sleep (fortunately, Bacchus comes to your rescue). | Rooms from: €360 | Rue René Vielle | 05–58–05–06–07, 05–58–05–05–05 restaurant reservations | www.michelguerard.com | 38 rooms | No meals.

PAU

56 km (35 miles) south of Eugénie-les-Bains; 106 km (63 miles) southeast of Bayonne and Biarritz; 41 km (27 miles) northwest of Lourdes.

The stunning views, mild climate, and elegance of Pau—the historic capital of Béarn, a state annexed to France in 1620—make it a lovely place to visit and a convenient gateway to the Pyrénées. The birthplace of King Henri IV, Pau was “discovered” in 1815 by British officers returning from the Peninsular War in Spain, and it soon became a prominent winter resort town. Fifty years later English-speaking inhabitants made up one-third of Pau’s population, many of them believing in the medicinal benefits of mountain air (later shifting their loyalties to Biarritz for the sea air). While here, the Brits not only introduced fox hunting and popularized tea drinking—they started the Pont-Long Steeplechase (still one of the most challenging in Europe) in 1841, and created France’s first golf course in 1856.

Getting Here

The Pau-Pyrénées airport, 12 km (7 miles) north of town, receives daily flights from Paris, Lyon, and other points; a shuttle bus into Pau runs hourly from 7:40 am to 7:40 pm (30 mins, €1). The TGV connects Pau and Paris (5 hrs, 34 mins; €67.50) with four trains daily. Overnight sleeper trains (7 hrs, 45 mins; €107) run via Bayonne or Toulouse. Trains connect with Biarritz (1½ hrs, €19) five times daily. You can also take the train to Lourdes (28 mins, €8), Bayonne (1 hr, 33 mins; €17), and Toulouse (2 hrs, 52 mins; €30.50). To reach the center of Pau from the train station on avenue Gaston-Lacoste, cross the street and take the funicular up the hill to place Royale. If you prefer the bus, Transports-64 connects Pau with Bayonne.

Visitor Information

Pau Tourist Office. | Pl. Royale | 05–59–27–27–08 | www.pau-pyrenees.com.

EXPLORING

Musée des Beaux-Arts.

For some man-made splendors, head to the Musée des Beaux-Arts and feast on works by El Greco, Degas, Sorolla, and Rodin. | Rue Mathieu-Lalanne | 05–59–27–33–02 | €5 | Weekdays 10–noon and 2–6, weekends 10–12:30.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée National du Château de Pau.

Pau’s regal past is commemorated at its Musée National du Château de Pau, begun in the 14th century by Gaston Phoebus, the flamboyant count of Béarn. The building was transformed into a Renaissance palace in the 16th century by Marguerite d’Angoulême, sister of François I. A woman of diverse gifts, she wrote pastorals, many performed in the château’s sumptuous gardens. Her bawdy Heptameron—written at age 60—furnishes as much sly merriment today as it did when read by her doting kingly brother. Marguerite’s grandson, the future king of France Henri IV, was born in the château in 1553. Exhibits connected to Henri’s life and times are displayed regularly, along with portraits of the most significant of his alleged 57 lovers and mistresses. His cradle, a giant turtle shell, is on exhibit in his bedroom, one of the sumptuous, tapestry-lined royal apartments. | Rue du Château | 05–59–82–38–00 | www.musee-chateau-pau.fr | 6.50€ | Mid-June–mid-Sept., daily 9:30–12:30 and 1:30–6:45; mid-Sept.–mid-June, daily 9:30–11:45 and 2–5.

Sentiers du Roy.

The “King’s Path” is a marked trail just below the Boulevard des Pyrénées. When you reach the top, look for the large map identifying the main peaks of the Hautes Pyrénées in the distance.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Henri IV.

FRENCH | On a quiet pedestrian street near the château, this dining room with its open fire is a cozy find for a cold, wet winter night, while the terrace is a shady place to cool off in summer. Traditional Béarn dishes here include magret de canard cooked over coals, and cuisses de grenouille (frogs’ legs) sautéed dry and crispy in parsley and garlic. | Average main: €22 | 18 rue Henri IV | 05–59–27–54–43 | Closed Wed. and Thurs.

L’Isle au Jasmin.

In the 1800s Pau became home to a thriving colony of elite British expatriates (famed climber Henry Russell among them), who were drawn here by the mountains and the climate. Sip your “cuppa” while drinking in views of the imposing peaks. | Average main: €6 | 28 bd. des Pyrénées | 05–59–27–34–82.

Hôtel de Gramont.

HOTEL | This 17th-century stagecoach stop is a convenient base that’s frequented by a mixed bag of travelers seeking respectable lodgings at reasonable prices. Any room will do, but for ultimate coziness ask for one of the chambres mansardées (dormered bedrooms) under the eaves overlooking the Valée du Hédas. Pros: a short walk from the Château de Pau and overlooking the oldest part of town; relaxing and unpretentious; easy on the wallet. Cons: breakfast (at extra charge) is to be avoided; small rooms. | Rooms from: €88 | 3 pl. de Gramont | 05–59–27–84–04 | www.hotelgramont.com | 32 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.

Hotel Parc Beaumont.

HOTEL | If you’re craving New World efficiency and unquestionable comfort, this place has definite appeal. Intentionally overstaffed, it’s a modern design hotel geared to international and business travelers who want frills without fussiness; all but nine of the sleek-chic guest rooms are superior grade with views of Park Beaumont, the Jurançon vineyards, and les Pyrénées. On-site amenities—including a spa and heated pool—add another relaxing layer to your stay. Pros: plush rooms and polished service; contemporary style. Cons: a longish walk to the historic center of town; comfort takes precedence over charm. | Rooms from: €250 | 1 av. Edouard VII | 05–59–11–84–00 | www.hotel-parc-beaumont.com | 70 rooms, 10 suites | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Casino.

The streets around Pau’s imposing château are sprinkled with cozy pubs and dining spots, although the casino offers racier entertainment. | Parc Beaumont | 05–59–27–06–92 | pau.groupetranchant.com.

Festival de Pau.

During the Festival de Pau, theatrical and musical events take place almost every evening from mid-July to late August, nearly all of them gratuit (free). The Tango Festival erupts in mid-September. | www.festivaltangopau.com.

LOURDES

41 km (27 miles) southeast of Pau, 30 km (19 miles) north of Cauterets.

The mountain town of Lourdes is probably the most famous Catholic pilgrimage site (and sight) in the world. Some 5 million visitors come each year from every corner of the globe—not all of them are Christian, but most are bound by their common hope for a miraculous healing.

Getting Here and Around

With direct rail service from Pau (28 mins, €8), Bayonne (1 hr, 44 mins; €24), and Toulouse (2 hrs, 4 mins; €26.50), Lourdes’s train station on the avenue de la Gare is one of the busiest in the country. In fact, so many pilgrim trains arrive between Easter and October that the station has a separate entrance to accommodate them; and dedicated local buses shuttle passengers to the grotto every 20 minutes. Regional T ransports-64 and SNCF-run TER buses also serve the area.

Visitor Information

Lourdes Tourist Office. | Pl. Peyramale | 05–62–42–77–40 | www.lourdes-france.com.

EXPLORING

Basilique Souterraine St-Pie X.

Lourdes celebrated the centenary of Bernadette Soubirous’s visions by building the world’s largest underground church, the Basilique Souterraine St-Pie X, with space for 20,000 people—more than the town’s permanent population. The Basilique Supérieure (1871), tall and white, hulks nearby.

Cachot.

The cachot, a tiny room where, in extreme poverty, Bernadette and her family took refuge in 1856, can also be visited. | 15 rue des Petits-Fossés | 05–62–94–51–30 | Free | Easter–mid-Oct., daily 9:30–11:45 and 2:30–5:30; mid-Oct.–Easter, daily 2:30–5:30.

Grotte de Massabielle.

What is now a huge pilgrimage site (and a big business) has humble origins. In February 1858 Bernadette Soubirous, a 14-year-old miller’s daughter, claimed she saw the Virgin Mary in the Grotte de Massabielle, near the Gave de Pau (in all, she had 18 visions). Bernadette dug in the grotto, releasing a gush of water from a spot where no spring had flowed before. From then on, pilgrims thronged the Massabielle rock for the water’s supposed healing powers, though church authorities reacted skeptically. It took four years for the miracle to be authenticated by Rome and a sanctuary erected over the grotto. In 1864 the first organized procession was held. Today there are six official annual pilgrimages between Easter and All Saints’ Day, the most important being on August 15. In fall and winter there are far fewer visitors, but that will be a plus for those in search of peace and tranquillity.

Moulin de Boly (Boly Mill).

Across the river is the Moulin de Boly, where Bernadette was born on January 7, 1844. | 12 rue Bernadette-Soubirous | Free | Easter–mid-Oct., daily 9:30–11:45 and 2:30–5:45.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Pyrénéen.

The château on the hill above town can be reached by escalator, by 131 steps, or by the ramp up from Rue du Bourg (from which a small Basque cemetery with ancient discoidal stones can be seen). Once a prison, the castle now contains the Musée Pyrénéen, one of France’s best provincial museums, devoted to the popular customs, arts, and history of the Pyrénées. | 25 rue du Fort | 05–62–42–37–37 | www.lourdes-visite.com | €6 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9–noon and 1:30–6:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 9–noon and 2–6.

Musée Sainte-Bernadette.

Bernadette’s life story is chronicled through mementos and more at the museum that bears her name; information about the construction of the nearby sanctuaries is also provided. | Bd. Rémi Sempé | 05–62–42–78–78 | www.lourdes-france.com | Free | July–Nov., daily 9–noon and 2:30–7; Dec.–June, Wed.–Mon. 9–noon and 2:30–5:45.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Grand Hôtel Moderne.

HOTEL | After braving the pilgrim-packed streets, this hotel—built in 1896 by one of Bernadette’s nephews—may seem like the answer to your prayers; after all, it promises comfortable rooms, attentive service, and an excellent restaurant right in the center of everything. Now owned and managed by a fashionable couple with family ties to one of Lourdes’ larger group travel companies, the hotel has been renovated but maintains its Belle Époque charm with mosaic tiled floors and solid wood banisters on the stately spiral staircase. Splurge on a master suite with 180-degree views of the nightly candlelight procession—you’ll get great seats without having to join the crowds. Pros: premier location across from the Grotto; warm service; good restaurant. Cons: attracts large groups (you can’t avoid that in Lourdes); driving into the heart of town is tricky (can’t avoid that either). | Rooms from: €160 | 21 av. Bernadette Soubirous | 05–62–94–12–32 | www.grandhotelmoderne.com | 110 rooms | No meals.

CAUTERETS

30 km (19 miles) south of Lourdes, 30 km (19 miles) north of Gavarnie.

Cauterets—which derives from the word for hot springs in the local bigourdan dialect—is a spa resort town set high in the Pyrénées. It has been revered since Roman times for thermal baths thought to cure maladies ranging from back pain to infertility. Novelist Victor Hugo (1802–85) womanized here, and Lady Aurore Dudevant—better known as the writer George Sand (1804–76)—is said to have discovered her feminism here. Other famous visitors include Chateaubriand, Sarah Bernhardt, King Edward VII of England, and Spain’s King Alfonso XIII.

Getting Here

Unless you’re coming to Cauterets from a hiking path, only one road leads into town. SNCF buses travel to and from Lourdes on it seven times a day (1 hr, €7).

Visitor Information

Cauterets Tourist Office. | Pl. Foch | 05–62–92–50–50 | www.cauterets.com.

EXPLORING

Les Bains du Rocher.

The naturally-heated sulfur water here was particularly popular among 19th-century aristocrats who arrived in Cauterets to “take the cure.” Today, it’s still used to alleviate rheumatism and respiratory maladies (three-week treatments can even be covered by national health insurance). In keeping with modern trends, however, the station thermale now caters to guests who simply want to indulge as well. Opened in 2010, Les Bains du Rocher has a genuine spa aesthetic. It offers massages, facials, aqua-gym sessions, and, of course, soaks in hot healing pools both inside and outside. | Av. du Dr. Domer | 05–62–92–14–20 | www.bains-rocher.fr.

GAVARNIE

30 km (19 miles) south of Cauterets.

Geologists point to the natural wonder that is the Cirque de Gavarnie as one of the world’s most formidable examples of the effects of glacial erosion; the cliffs were worn away by the advancing and retreating ice sheets of the Pleistocene epoch. Seeing it, one can understand its irresistible appeal for mountain climbers—appropriately, the village has a statue honoring one of the first of them, Count Russell.

Getting Here

From Lourdes SNCF buses connect to Luz-St-Sauveur (34 mins, €5); Gavarnie is another 20 km (12 miles) south by bus (30 mins, €5) or taxi.

Visitor Information

Gavarnie Tourist Office. | Pl. de la Bergère, in center of village | 05–62–92–49–10 | www.gavarnie.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Brèche de Roland.

Another dramatic sight is 12 km (7 miles) west of the village of Gavarnie. Take D921 up to the Col de Boucharo, where you can park and walk five hours up to the Brèche de Roland glacier (you cross it during the last two hours of the hike). For a taste of mountain life, have lunch high up at the Club Alpin Français’s Refuge la Brèche de Roland–Sarradets. This is a serious climb, only feasible from mid-June to mid-September, for which you need (at least) good hiking shoes and sound physical conditioning. Crampons and ice axes can be rented in Gavarnie.

Fodor’s Choice | Cirque de Gavarnie.

A spectacular natural amphitheater, the Cirque de Gavarnie has been dubbed the “Colosseum of Nature” and inspired many writers, including Victor Hugo. At its foot is the village of Gavarnie, a good base for exploring the mountains in the region. The Cirque is a Cinerama wall of peaks that is one of the world’s most remarkable examples of glacial erosion and a daunting challenge to mountaineers. Horses and donkeys, rented in the village, are the traditional way to reach the head of the valley (though walking is preferable), where the Hôtel du Cirque has hosted six generations of visitors. When the upper snows melt, numerous streams tumble down from the cliffs to form spectacular waterfalls; the greatest of them, the Grande Cascade, drops nearly 1,400 feet.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel du Cirque.

FRENCH | With its legendary views of the Cirque de Gavarnie, this spot is well worth the one-hour hike from the village. Despite its name, the hôtel is a restaurant, but not just any old one: the garbure here is as delicious as the view is grand. Seventh-generation owner Pierre Vergez claims his recipe using water from the Cirque and cocos de Tarbes, or haricots tarbais (Tarbes broad beans) is unique. | Average main: €15 | 1-hr walk above village of Gavarnie | 05–62–92–48–02 | Closed Nov.–May.

Hotel Vignemale.

HOTEL | Behind an imposing granite facade with steep rooflines reflecting the towering Hautes Pyrénées to the south, the ample and sunny guest rooms in this spacious château-like hotel built in 1902 overlook the rushing Gave (river) de Gavarnie. Floor-to-ceiling windows and gleaming tile floors provide an airy atmosphere, while the breakfast terrace out front is the ideal way to start a day in the mountains. Views over the Cirque de Gavarnie and the 3,250-meter (10,725-foot) Marboré peak beyond are mesmerizing. Pros: rushing water music provided by the stream; a sense of space; historic mountaineer’s haven. Cons: small balconies; decor somewhat dated; bathrooms not as splendid as the facade might suggest. | Rooms from: €150 | Chemin du Cirque | 05–62–92–40–00 | www.hotel-vignemale.com | 10 rooms | Closed mid-Oct–mid-May | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

La Fête des Pyrénées.

Every summer Gavarnie holds an outdoor ballet and music performance, La Fête des Pyrénées, using the Cirque de Gavarnie as a backdrop; shows start at sunset. For information, contact the tourist office. | 05–62–92–49–10.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Bordeaux and the Wine Country

Bordeaux

Route du Médoc and the Wine Country

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner | Visiting the Vineyards

Updated by Avery Sumner

When travelers arrive here, Bordeaux’s countryside enchants them without their quite knowing why: what the French call la douceur de vivre (the sweetness of living) may have something to do with it.

To the east, extending their lush green rows to the rising sun, the renowned vineyards of the Route de Médoc entice visitors to discover magical medieval wine towns like St-Émilion. To the north, the Atlantic coast offers elite enclaves with white-sand beaches. In between is the metropolis of Bordeaux, replete with 18th-century landmarks and 20-year-old college students. Some complain that Bordeaux is like Paris without the good stuff, but if you’re a wine lover it’s still the doorway to paradise.

From the grandest premiers grands crus—the Lafite-Rothschilds, the Margaux—to the modest supérieur in your picnic basket, Bordeaux wines command respect around the world. So much so that oenophiles by the thousands come here to pay homage: to gaze at the noble symmetries of estate châteaux, whose rows of green-and-black vineyards radiate in every direction; to lower a nose deep into a well-swirled glass, inhaling the heady vapors of oak and almond and leather; and, finally, to reverently pack a few bloodline labels into a trunk or a suitcase for home.

The history, economy, and culture of Bordeaux have always been linked to the production and marketing of wine. The birth of the first Bordeaux winery is said to have occurred between AD 37 and 68, when the Romans called this land Burdigala. By the Middle Ages a steady flow of Bordeaux wines was headed to England, where it’s still dubbed “claret,” after clairet, a light red version from earlier days. During these centuries the region was also put on the tourist radar because it had become a major stopping-off point on the fabled Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage road. With all these allurements, it’s no wonder the English fought for it so determinedly throughout the Hundred Years’ War. This coveted corner of France became home to Eleanor of Aquitaine, and when she left her first husband, France’s Louis VII, to marry Henry II of Normandy (later king of England), both she and the land came under English rule. Henry Plantagenet was, after all, a great-grandson of William the Conqueror, and the Franco-English ambiguity of the age exploded in a war that defined much of modern France and changed its face forever. Southwestern France was the stage upon which much of the war was conducted—hence the region’s many castles and no end of sturdy churches dedicated to the noble families’ cause.

What they sought, the world still seeks. The wines of Bordeaux set the standard against which other wines are measured, and to truly savor them you should drink them on-site—from the mouthful of golden Graves that eases the oysters down to the syrupy sip of Sauternes that civilizes the smooth gaminess of the foie gras to the last glass of Médoc paired with the salt-marsh lamb that leads to pulling the cork on a Pauillac—because there is the cheese tray yet to come. With a smorgasbord of 57 wine appellations to choose from, the revitalized city of Bordeaux, and the wine country that surrounds it with a veritable army of varietals, the entire region is intoxicating.

TOP REASONS TO GO

La Route de Médoc: With eight appellations (districts) in this small area alone, and names like Rothschild, Latour, and Margaux on its bottles, the route will fulfill your grape expectations.

Bordeaux: 18th-century wine merchants endowed this city with an almost regal elegance—for proof, see their gracious mansions and the city’s sublime squares.

The Rothschild legacy: Although the family’s Château Lafite is often locked, oenophiles will be welcomed with open arms at Château Mouton-Rothschild’s visitor center and museum.

St-Émilion: With its 13th-century ramparts, cobblestone streets, and rock-face hermitage, this hilltop town presides over one of the region’s richest wine districts.

Bordeaux bacchanal: Wine-themed festivals—most notably the Fête du Vin extravaganza, held in Bordeaux’s biggest place at the end of June—keep corks popping.

GETTING ORIENTED

Along with Burgundy and Champagne, Bordeaux is one of the great wine regions of France. As the capital of the Gironde département and of the historic province of Aquitaine, the city of Bordeaux is both the commercial and cultural center of southwest France and an important transportation hub. It is smack-dab in the middle of one of the finest wine-growing areas in the world: Sauternes lies to the south, flat and dusty Médoc to the northwest, and Pomerol and St-Émilion to the east.

WHAT’S WHERE

Bordeaux. Dominated geographically by the nearby Atlantic Ocean and historically by great wine merchants and shippers, Bordeaux has long ranked among France’s largest cities. There is considerable, if concentrated, affluence, which hides behind 18th-century facades. Showing off may not be a regional trait but, happily, the city fathers did provide a bevy of cultural riches to discover, including the spectacular place de la Bourse, the Grand Théâtre, and the Musée des Beaux-Arts.

The Médoc. Northwest of Bordeaux, this triangulated peninsula extends from the Garonne River to the Atlantic coast. Dutch engineers drained its marshy landscape in the 18th century to expose the gravelly soil that is excellent for growing grapes, and today the Médoc is home to several of the grands crus classés, including Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Lafite-Rothschild, and Château Mouton-Rothschild. Public buses run here but stops are sometimes in the middle of nowhere—a car, bike, or guided tour may be the best option.

The Libournais. On the right bank of the Dordogne, this region was put on the map by two great wine districts—St-Émilion and Pomerol. Crowds head here because the town of St-Émilion looks as delicious as its wines taste: a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this open-air museum was constructed out of a limestone plateau honeycombed with vast caves and passageways, the source for the golden stonework of its 19th-century houses and steep streets. During summer, the small town is often swamped with visitors, so plan your parking and hotels carefully.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

Southwestern France can have bad storms even during the summer because of the nearby Atlantic. Happily, inclement weather doesn’t hang around for long. French people usually vacation within their own national borders, so that means mid-July to the end of August is when you’ll have company—lots of it—especially in the more famous destinations. Spring and fall are the best times to visit, when there aren’t as many tourists and the weather is still pleasant. The vendanges (grape harvests) usually begin about mid-September in the Bordeaux region (though you can’t visit the wineries at this time), and two weeks later in the Cognac region, to the north.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

How do you find the best vineyards (also referred to as crus, clos, and domaines) if you’re based in Bordeaux? Easy—just head in any direction. The city is at the hub of a patchwork of vineyards: the Médoc peninsula to the northwest; Bourg and Blaye across the estuary; St-Émilion inland to the east; then, as you wheel around clockwise, Entre-Deux-Mers, Sauternes, and Graves.

The nearest vineyard to Bordeaux itself is one of the best: Haut-Brion, on the western outskirts of the city, and one of the five châteaux to be officially recognized as a premier cru, or first growth. There are only five premiers crus in all, and Haut-Brion is the only one not in the Médoc (Château Mouton-Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, and Château Lafite-Rothschild complete the list). The Médoc is subdivided into various appellations, or wine-growing districts, with their own specific characteristics and taste. Pauillac and Margaux host premiers crus; St-Julien and St-Estèphe possess many domaines of almost equal quality, followed by Listrac and Moulis; wines not quite so good are classed as Haut-Médoc or, as you move farther north, Médoc, pure and simple.

The Médoc wine region begins at the meeting point of the Dordogne and Garonne rivers, just north of the city. The D2 (aka the Route des Châteaux) cuts northwest through the majority of the wine country along the Gironde all the way to Talais, and the D1215 farther west runs through the other side of the region entering appellations like Listrac and Moulis.

Eastward lies the Libournais and St-Émilion regions, with Libourne being the main transportation (train) hub if you’re heading to the stunning Vieille Ville (Old Town) of St-Émilion, which deserves at least a day, if not two. The surrounding vineyards see the merlot grape in control, and wines here often have more immediate appeal than those of the Médoc. There are several small appellations apart from St-Émilion itself, the most famous being Pomerol, whose Château Pétrus is the world’s most expensive wine. South of St-Émilion is the region known as Entre-Deux-Mers (“between two seas”—actually two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne), whose dry white wine is particularly flavorsome. This region is famed for its sweet wines, including the world’s best, which hail from legendary Sauternes.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Bordeaux is one of France’s main transportation hubs. However, once you get out into the surrounding Gironde—the “Wine Country”—you may find its seven regions (divided according to geography and the types of wine produced) difficult to reach without a car. Public buses run frequently through the countryside, but they don’t necessarily stop in convenient places. The Conseil Général’s comprehensive TransGironde website outlines your options in English. If you have access to a car, you’ll find life much easier, particularly if you purchase a Michelin map; Map No. 234 covers a large portion of the southwest. Another option is to go on a bus tour organized by the Bordeaux tourism office.

Air Travel

Daily flights on Air France (www.airfrance.com) link Bordeaux and Paris; the Bordeaux airport is also served by several budget carriers—including easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com).

Airport Information

Aéroport de Bordeaux-Mérignac. | Bordeaux | 05–56–34–50-50 | www.bordeaux.aeroport.fr.

Bus Travel

The Conseil Général’s TransGironde network of buses covers towns in the wine country and beach areas not well served by rail. The main Gare Routière (bus terminal) in Bordeaux is on Allées de Chartres (by Esplanade des Quinconces), near the Garonne River and Stalingrad Square.

Contacts

TransGironde. | Bordeaux | 09–74–50–00–33 | transgironde.gironde.fr.

Car Travel

As the capital of southwest France, Bordeaux has superb highway links with Paris, Spain, and even the Mediterranean (the A62 expressway via Toulouse links up with the A61 to Narbonne). The A10 is the Paris–Bordeaux expressway, and the A63 south brings you past Bayonne. The A20 south is the main route from Paris to just before Cahors, but it’s an hour quicker to go south on the A10 through Tours and Poitiers.

Train Travel

The superfast TGV Atlantique service links Paris’s Gare Montparnasse to Bordeaux, 585 km (364 miles) away, in 3½ hours. Trains link Bordeaux to Lyon (6½ hrs) and Nice (9 hrs) via Marseille as well. At least a dozen trains leave Bordeaux most days bound for St-Émilion, arriving 37 minutes later. If you’re heading north to Pauillac (75 mins), there are also at least a dozen trains daily from Bordeaux.

Contacts

Gare de Bordeaux St-Jean. | Rue Charles Domercq, | Bordeaux | 05–47–47–10–00.

SNCF. | 3635 €0.34 per min | www.sncf.fr.

TGV. | www.tgv.com.

RESTAURANTS

Although countryside Médoc eateries are few, the city of Bordeaux is jammed with restaurants, especially around place du Parlement; plus it has many cafés (notably in the Quartier St-Pierre) and bars (place de la Victoire and cours de la Somme). Not surprisingly, the wines of the region are often used as a base for regional food specialties. Lamprey, a good local fish, is often served in a red wine sauce as lamproie à la Bordelaise; and sturgeon is cooked in a white wine sauce, as esturgeon à la Libournaise (Libourne-style). As for meat, the lamb from Pauillac and the beef from Bazas and Aquitaine are rightly famous, as is the wood pigeon (palombe). And Bordeaux has spectacular desserts, such as fanchonnette bordelaise (puff pastry in custard covered with meringue), cannelé de Bordeaux (small cakes, made in fluted molds, that can only be found here), and the famed macaroons from St-Émilion, invented there by the town’s Ursuline nuns in the 17th century.

HOTELS

Countryside hotels can be gorgeous—not to mention convenient for touring the region’s famed vineyards—but basing yourself in Bordeaux city is definitely worth considering, because pickings for rural inns can be slim in summer months and nonexistent in winter, when most of them close. And don’t fret about missing the vineyards. Many of the city hotels can create tours for you. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

The Office de Tourisme in Bordeaux is the first place to head for further information on local and regional sights, including wine tours and tastings; a round-the-clock phone service in English is available. The office also organizes coach tours of the surrounding vineyards every day in high season and nearly every Wednesday and weekends in the off-season. In addition to the main office (at 12 cours du XXX-Juillet), there are branches at the Gare de Bordeaux train station and the airport.

Contact

Office of Tourism of Bordeaux. | 12 cours du XXX-Juillet, | Bordeaux | 05–56–00–66–00 | www.bordeaux-tourisme.com.

Red Gold: The Wines of Bordeaux

Everyone in Bordeaux celebrated the 2000 vintage as the “crop of the century,” a wine that comes along once in a lifetime. But bringing everything down to earth are some new sour grapes: the increasingly loud whispers that Bordeaux may be “over.”

In this world of nouvelle cuisine and uncellared wines, some critics feel the world has moved away from pricey, rich, red wines and more people are opting for younger choices from other lands. Be that as it may, if you have any aspirations to being a wine connoisseur, Bordeaux will always remain the bedrock of French viticulture.

It has been considered so ever since the credentials of Bordeaux wines were traditionally established in 1787. That year, Thomas Jefferson went down to the region from Paris and splurged on bottles of 1784 Château d’Yquem and Château Margaux, for prices that were, he reported, “indeed dear.” Jefferson knew his wines: in 1855, both Yquem and Margaux were officially classified among Bordeaux’s top five. And two centuries later, some of his very bottles (the authenticity of their provenance has since been disputed, as well as documented in the controversial book The Billionaire’s Vinegar) fetched upward of $50,000 when offered in a high-flying auction in New York City.

As it turns out, Bordeaux’s reputation dates from the Middle Ages. From 1152 to 1453, along with much of what is now western France, Bordeaux belonged to England. The light red wine then produced was known as clairet, the origin of our word “claret.” Today no other part of France has such a concentration of top-class vineyards.

The versatile Bordeaux region yields sweet and dry whites and fruity or full-bodied reds from a huge domain extending on either side of the Gironde (Blaye and Bourg to the north, Médoc and Graves to the south) and inland along the Garonne (Sauternes) and Dordogne (St-Émilion, Fronsac, Pomerol) or in between these two rivers (Entre-Deux-Mers).

At the top of the government-supervised scale—which ranks, from highest to lowest, as Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (often abbreviated AOC); Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieur (VDQS); Vins de Pays; and Vin de Table—are the fabled vintages of Bordeaux, leading off with Margaux. Sadly, the vineyards of Margaux are among the ugliest in France, lost amid the flat, dusty plains of Médoc.

Bordeaux is better represented at historic St-Émilion, with its cascading cobbled streets, or at Sauternes. Nothing in that grubby village would suggest the mind-boggling wealth lurking amid the picturesque vine-laden slopes and hollows. The village has a wineshop where bottles gather dust on rickety shelves, next to handwritten price tags demanding small fortunes.

Making Sauternes is a tricky business. Autumn mists steal up the valleys to promote Botrytis cinerea, a fungus known as pourriture noble or noble rot, which sucks moisture out of the grapes, leaving a high proportion of sugar. Sauternes’s liquid gold is harvested in vendanges beginning in September and lasting to December. Santé!

VISITING THE VINEYARDS

Touring a region with more than 1,555-square km (600-square miles) of wine-growing country, 5,000 châteaux, and 100,000 vineyards producing around 70 million gallons of wine annually, you’ll find it hard to resist sampling Bordeaux’s liquid bounty—but where to start?

The best bet is to head north for the Route de Médoc (also called the Route des Châteaux or the Route des Grands-Crus), armed with maps and pointers from Bordeaux’s helpful Office of Tourism (the tourisme de viticole desk is the place for this)—it’s at 12 cours du XXX-Juillet in the city center of Bordeaux. Or check out the “Wine Tours” section of the official Bordeaux tourism website before you travel: | www.bordeaux-tourisme.com. A map is essential, as signage is poor and many “châteaux” are small manors hidden in the hills. Three main wine regions surround the city: Médoc to the northwest, St-Émilion to the east, and Graves-Sauternes to the south. Each boasts big-name vineyards, but remember that Baron Philippe de Rothschild, owner of Mouton-Rothschild, drank vin ordinaire at most meals.

I Heard It Through the Grapevine

For more tips go to the Forums at www.fodors.com. “Remember that almost all châteaux are closed from noon to 2 pm for lunch.” —at. “We had a 3-hour private tour at Latour, with a movie, a tour, and a tasting. Everything was first-class—especially the wine! We also made same-day reservations at beautiful Pichon-Longeville.” —oforparis!

By Appointment Only

If you’re planning on visiting any of the famous growers (or some of the lesser known ones for that matter), make sure to contact them ahead of time to arrange a dégustation (wine tasting)—many of the labels are “by appointment only” because they’re too small to have full-time guides. Even the famous Château Mouton-Rothschild—visited by thousands—requires reservations, at least a week in advance for a regular tour and several weeks for a tour that includes the cellars. Conveniently, you can create your agenda online by booking your visits through the tourism office’s website—it also supplies you with a printable map for your personalized itinerary.

Vineyard Tours

The staff at Bordeaux’s tourism office is very helpful, and because many vineyards are inaccessible without a car or bike, the easiest way to reach those of the Route de Médoc and Gironde is to join one of the nearly daily bus tours it sponsors.

Here’s the main scoop: These tours depart from (and return to) the Office de Tourisme at 12 cours XXX-Juillet. In the off-season, same-day reservations can be had; in high season, make them in advance. There are daylong trips and also half-day versions (the latter usually from 2 to 6 in the afternoon).

In high season there’s a tour every day; otherwise a few run per week. Most tours stop at two châteaux only—for instance, in the Médoc, you can visit the Château Palmer (Troisième Cru Classé) and the Château Lanessan (Cru Bourgeois)—but there are so many diverse tours that you could go on a different one each day for a week and not see the same domains. Tours are offered in several languages, including English, and usually a bus holds 40 participants.

You can view information regarding each tour (including availability) at www.bordeaux-tourisme.com; then book your choice online.

The Grape Escape

Want to play vigneron (vintner) for a night? Some great vineyards welcome guests: here are two top options.

The 14th-century estate of Château Smith Haut Lafitte (05–57–83–11–22 | www.smith-haut-lafitte.com) houses the very successful Les Sources de Caudalie hotel as well as a spa offering wine-based treatments (05–57–83–83–83 | www.sources-caudalie.com).

Wine king Bernard Magrez has two rooms available at his 17th-century Château Fombrauge; book through his big Luxury Wine Tourism company (05–57–26–43–06 | www.luxurywinetourism.fr).

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Exploring | Where to Eat | Where to Stay

Bordeaux as a whole, rather than any particular points within it, is what you’ll want to visit in order to understand why Victor Hugo described it as Versailles plus Antwerp, and why the painter Francisco de Goya, when exiled from his native Spain, chose it as his last home (he died here in 1828). The capital of southwest France and the region’s largest city, Bordeaux remains synonymous with the wine trade: wine shippers have long maintained their headquarters along the banks of the Garonne, while buyers from around the world arrive for the huge biennial Vinexpo show (held in odd-number years).

Bordeaux is, admittedly, a less exuberant city than many others in France, but lively and stylish elements are making a dent in its conservative veneer. The cleaned-up riverfront is said by some, after a bottle or two, to exude an elegance reminiscent of St. Petersburg, and that aura of 18th-century élan also permeates the historic downtown sector—“le vieux Bordeaux”—where fine shops invite exploration. To the south of the city center are old docklands undergoing renewal—one train station has now been transformed into a big multiplex movie theater—but the area is still a bit shady. To get a feel for the historic port of Bordeaux, take the 90-minute boat trip that leaves quai Louis-XVIII every weekday afternoon, or the regular passenger ferry that plies the Garonne between quai Richelieu and the Pont d’Aquitaine in summer. A nice time to stroll around the city center is the first Sunday of the month, when it’s pedestrian-only and vehicles are banned.

Getting Here and Around

Served by both national airlines and budget carriers, the Aéroport de Bordeaux-Mérignac is 10 km (7 miles) west of Bordeaux; the airport’s Jet’Bus loops between it and the city center every 45 minutes for €7 one-way, €12 return. You can also come by rail from Paris, with high-speed TGVs making the 3½-hour trip at least 16 times a day; the train deposits you at one of the country’s major hubs, the Gare de Bordeaux St-Jean, about 3 km (2 miles) from downtown. Bordeaux’s urban TBC buses (Nos. 7 and 8) will take you from the train station to the city center for less than €1.50; other buses, augmented by trams and commuter boats, help you get around the city itself with ease (www.infotbc.com/en). The TransGironde network of regional buses goes farther afield in the Gironde, and even to other nearby départements.

Visitor Information

Office of Tourism of Bordeaux. | 12 cours du XXX-Juillet | 05–56–00–66–00 | www.bordeaux-tourisme.com.

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EXPLORING

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Cathédrale St-André.

This may not be one of France’s finer Gothic cathedrals, but the intricate 14th-century chancel makes an interesting contrast with the earlier nave. Excellent stone carvings adorn the facade of this hefty edifice. You can climb the 15th-century, 160-foot Tour Pey-Berland for a stunning view of the city; it’s open Tuesday–Sunday, 10–noon and 2–5. | Pl. Pey-Berland | 05–56–81–26–25 | Tower €5.50.

École du Vin de Bordeaux.

On tree-lined Cours du XXX-Juillet, not far from the banks of the Garonne and the main artery of the Esplanade des Quinconces, you’ll find the École du Vin. Run by the CIVB (Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bordeaux, which oversees the Bordeaux wine trade), this school organizes wine initiation and tasting classes. The on-site Le Bar à Vin is a good place to sample reds (like Pauillac or St-Émilion), dry whites (like an Entre-Deux-Mers, Graves, or Côtes de Blaye), and sweet whites (like Sauternes or Loupiac). This can be particularly useful when trying to decide which of the 57 wine appellations to focus on during your trip. You can also make purchases at the school’s Vinothèque. TIP Further info is available right across the street at the city tourist office. | 8 cours du XXX-Juillet | 05–56–00–22–85 | www.la-vinotheque.com | Bar Mon.–Sat. 11–10.

Grand Théâtre.

One block south of the École du Vin is the city’s leading 18th-century monument: the Grand Théâtre, designed by Victor Louis and built between 1773 and 1780. It’s the pride of the city, with an elegant exterior ringed by graceful Corinthian columns and a dazzling foyer with a two-winged staircase and a cupola. The theater hall has a frescoed ceiling with a shimmering chandelier composed of 14,000 Bohemian crystals. Contact the Bordeaux tourist office to learn about guided tours. | Pl. de la Comédie | 05–56–00–85–95 | www.opera-bordeaux.com.

Haut-Brion.

One of the region’s most famous wine-producing châteaux is actually within the city limits: follow N250 southwest from central Bordeaux for 3 km (2 miles) to the district of Pessac, home to Haut-Brion, producer of the only non-Médoc wine to be ranked a premier cru (the most elite wine classification). It’s claimed the very buildings surrounding the vineyards create their own microclimate, protecting the precious grapes and allowing them to ripen earlier. The white château looks out over the celebrated pebbly soil. The wines produced at La Mission–Haut Brion (Domaine Clarence Dillon), across the road, are almost as sought-after. | 135 av. Jean-Jaurès | Pessac | 05–56–00–29–30 | www.haut-brion.com | Free 1-hr visits with tasting, weekdays by appointment | Closed mid-July–mid-Aug.

Musée d’Aquitaine.

Two blocks south of the Cathédrale St-André, this excellent museum takes you on a trip through Bordeaux’s history, with emphasis on Roman, medieval, Renaissance, colonial, and 20th-century daily life. The detailed prehistoric section almost saves you a trip to Lascaux II, which is reproduced here in part. | 20 cours Pasteur | 05–56–01–51–00 | www.musee-aquitaine-bordeaux.fr | Free | Tues.–Sun. 11–6.

Musée des Beaux-Arts.

Bordeaux was one of 15 French cities chosen by Napoléon to showcase his war-acquired works (most notably from Italy) along with bits of existing royal art, so this museum has a fetching collection. Expanded to include pieces from the 15th century to the present, it now displays important paintings by Paolo Veronese (St. Dorothy), Camille Corot (Bath of Diana), and Odilon Redon (Apollo’s Chariot), plus sculptures by Auguste Rodin. Located near the Cathédrale St-André and ornate Hôtel de Ville, the Museé des Beaux-Arts is flanked by tidy gardens. | 20 cours d’Albret | 05–56–10–20–56 | www.musba-bordeaux.fr | Free | Wed.–Mon. 11–6.

Place de la Bourse.

The centerpiece of the left bank is this open square built in 1729–33. Ringed with large-windowed buildings, it was beautifully designed by the era’s most esteemed architect, Jacques Gabriel, father of Jacques-Ange Gabriel (who went on to remodel Paris’s Place de la Concorde).

Place du Parlement.

A few blocks southeast of Place de la Bourse, Place du Parlement is also ringed by elegant 18th-century structures and packed with lively outdoor cafés.

WORTH NOTING

Musée d’Art Contemporain (Contemporary Art Center).

Just north of the Esplanade des Quinconces (a sprawling square), this two-story museum is imaginatively housed in a converted 19th-century spice warehouse—the Entrepôt Lainé. Many expositions here showcase cutting-edge artists who invariably festoon the huge expanse of the square with hanging ropes, ladders, and large video screens. | 7 rue Ferrère | 05–56–00–81–50 | Free, €5 for temporary expositions | Tues. and Thurs.–Sun. 11–6, Wed. 11–8.

Pont de Pierre.

For a view of the picturesque quayside, stroll across the Garonne on this bridge, built on the orders of Napoléon between 1810 and 1821, and until 1965 the only bridge across the river.

WHERE TO EAT

Baud et Millet.

FRENCH | With a cellar full of fromage—and a vast wine stock that you peruse in lieu of a list—Baud et Millet is a good place to get acquainted with some of the 246 different French cheeses that Charles de Gaulle famously blamed for making this such a complex, and thus difficult, country to govern. You must buzz to gain entry, and that’s just the first element of the unique experience here. Order from the cheese buffet and serve yourself from the downstairs cellar, or start with a cherry tomato and Roquefort clafoutis, then move on to Camembert flambéed in Calvados. For €45 you can try a dégustation of nine cooked cheese dishes. TIP Genuine stinky cheese lovers should know some cheeses here aren’t as potent as can be had elsewhere in France. | Average main: €25 | 19 rue Huguerie | 05–56–79–05–77 | www.baudetmillet.fr | Closed late Dec.–early Jan.

Café Français.

BRASSERIE | Situated on a grande place in the Vielle Ville, with cathedral views and a traditional menu of solid sustenance, this venerable bistro attracts those looking for an all day mixture of café and restaurant. It’s the quintessential spot to people-watch over a coffee or meal. TIP Try for a table on the terrace. The view over Place Pey-Berland is never less than diverting; however, some say you end up paying for the place more than the plate. | Average main: €20 | 5–6 pl. Pey-Berland | 05–56–52–96–69.

Gravelier.

MODERN FRENCH | An elegant, contemporary menu, an intimate setting in the less-touristed Chartrons neighborhood, and a famous chef make this restaurant a star address. Anne-Marie (daughter of culinary legend Pierre Troisgros) married Yves Gravelier, and they combine their talents here. The attitude is unpretentious; the decor sparse and light; and the cuisine imaginative. For proof try carpaccio of duck with fried foie gras and watermelon, or veal in a sorrel sauce with morel mushrooms. TIP The lunch menu is a good value. | Average main: €28 | 114 cours de Verdun | 05–56–48–17–15 | www.gravelier.fr | Reservations essential | Closed weekends, 1 wk in Feb., and Aug.

La Tupina.

FRENCH | Under the eye of flamboyant owner Jean-Pierre Xiradakis, cuisine de terroir is served up at this classic restaurant (the name means “kettle”) on one of Bordeaux’s oldest streets. Dried herbs hang from the ceiling, a Provençal grandfather clock ticks off the minutes, and an antique fireplace sports a grill bearing sizzling morsels of duck and chicken. Like the room itself, the menu aspires to nostalgie, and it succeeds. On the same street (No. 34) is the owner’s fetching—and cheaper—Bar Cave de la Monnaie. You can also dine or shop at his épicerie, Le Comestible (No. 3), which is lined with bistro tables and jars of foie gras, cassoulet, and other regional sundries. TIP Copies of this business-savvy chef’s southwestern cuisine cookbook are sold at the épicerie. | Average main: €31 | 6 rue Porte-de-la-Monnaie | 05–56–91–56–37 | www.latupina.com | Reservations essential.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Chapon-Fin.

FRENCH | Some say you haven’t really been to Bordeaux if you haven’t been to Le Chapon Fin—an epicurean indulgence, housed in one of Bordeaux’s most historically esteemed establishments, where guests once included wealthy wine merchants, elite transatlantic travelers, and cultural icons such as Sarah Bernhardt and Toulouse-Lautrec. Founded in 1825, this was one of the first 33 restaurants crowned by Michelin in 1933. Reopened in 1987, guests are now served from Thierry Marx–trained chef Nicolas Frion’s refined modern menu in the extraordinary, original rococo grotto salle (room). Expect offerings like panfried fillet of beef with eggplant cannelloni in an onion-tomato compote or lobster in chestnut cream with chanterelle ravioli. You should also prepare yourself for sommeliers boasting the region’s best vintages. | Average main: €38 | 5 rue Montesquieu | 05–56–79–10–10 | www.chapon-fin.com | Reservations essential | Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug.

L’Estacade.

MODERN FRENCH | Le tout Bordeaux comes to this trendy glass-encased restaurant, which hangs spectacularly over the Garonne River, for its privileged views of Bordeaux proper and the 18th-century Place de la Bourse on the opposite bank. The setting is sleek modern with a casual, sometimes noisy crowd. The cuisine is creative but not edgy (imagine sesame-and-soy-marinated veal, or mullet tartare with cream and fish eggs), while the wine list focuses on young Bordeaux. TIP The city lights make views better at night. | Average main: €29 | Quai de Queyries | 05–57–54–02–50 | www.lestacade.com.

l’Oiseau Cabosse.

CAFÉ | This straight-up organic restaurant and coffee bar is a good option for a light meal. With its kind and spunky service, chic outside terrace, and interesting location in the bourgeois-bohemian Quartier de la Grosse Cloche (Big Clock neighborhood), it’s a welcome find in the city. Try the duck confit parmentier, curry and leek quiche, or a fresh baked dessert. Don’t miss the organic, artisanal cola or 100% pure cocoa hot chocolate. | Average main: €12 | 30 rue Ste-Colombe | 05–57–14–02–07 | Closed Mon.

WHERE TO STAY

Acanthe Hotel.

HOTEL | Just steps from the Place de la Bourse, this budget hotel is an extremely convenient choice if you’re looking for something less grand; renovated rooms have air-conditioning, double-paned windows, environmentally-friendly wall paint, and freshened bathrooms—top-floor rooms also have views over the neighboring rooftops. For good measure, ask for a “comfort room” rather than a standard one. Pros: genial staff; breakfast (extra charge) includes an organic option. Cons: some rooms feel a bit claustrophobic; gets a lot of street noise. | Rooms from: €75 | 12 rue Saint Remi | 05–56–81–66–58 | www.acanthe-hotel-bordeaux.com | 20 rooms | No meals.

Burdigala.

HOTEL | The modern exterior may be bland, but the interior of this five-star M Gallery Collection hotel dispels any risk of dullness. The handsome guest rooms are outfitted with sleep-inducing beds, neutral-toned contemporary furniture, and, in many cases, comfy sitting areas (No. 416 is especially quiet and sunny); deluxe rooms have marble bathrooms with whirlpool baths. The on-site Jardin de Burdigala restaurant serves nouvelle cuisine and Le Bacchus Bar is sleek and sophisticated. Pros: soundproof rooms; in the heart of Bordeaux, close to Gambetta Square. Cons: if you want old-world charm, this is not the place; room styles vary. | Rooms from: €205 | 115 rue Georges-Bonnac | 05–56–90–16–16 | www.burdigala.com | 68 rooms, 15 suites | No meals.

Des Quatre Sœurs.

HOTEL | In an elegant 1840 townhouse near the Grand Théâtre, this hotel has sober, but well-kept rooms of varying sizes, all with air-conditioning. Believe it or not, Richard Wagner once stayed here—unfortunately, you’ll never know it from the uninspired furnishings. Pros: only a few steps from the tourist office; friendly staff. Cons: guest room interiors speak French mamie (grandmother); central location outshines all other amenities. | Rooms from: €105 | 6 cours du XXX-Juillet | 05–57–81–19–20 | www.hotel-bordeaux-4soeurs.com | 29 rooms, 5 suites | No meals.

Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux & Spa.

HOTEL | Festooned in luxury fabrics and 18th-century furnishings, this posh extravaganza, designed by France’s überchic Jacque Garcia, put Bordeaux back on the world scene with its veritable army of restaurants and bars along with a swanky Roman bath–inspired spa—all just steps from the city’s Golden Triangle shopping district. If anyone can redefine and resurrect Bordelais style it is Garcia: for this complex of buildings, anchored by a historic palais, he took inspiration from the gilded Opéra National de Bordeaux, just across the square. lGo all out and get a room high up with a theater view. Pros: marble bathrooms and loads of in-room amenities; deluxe service; superb central location. Cons: some rooms lack natural light; superior rooms are small (but executive rooms let you sprawl out). | Rooms from: €395 | 2–5 pl. de la Comédie | 05–57–30–44–44 | www.ghbordeaux.com | 121 rooms, 27 suites | No meals.

La Maison Bord’eaux.

HOTEL | Northwest of the city center, the street-front door of this inconspicuous boutique hotel opens onto a quiet courtyard that once served as a relay stable for carriages and today provides a welcome respite for modern travelers seeking urban tranquility. Inside the 18th-century building, antique tiles and well-worn parquet floors contrast nicely with the ultramodern style of the lounge and dining room; in the guest rooms, however, the minimalist modern theme feels a tad too minimal. Pros: nicely situated to enjoy both city center and a quiet retreat; chic lounge and dining room. Cons: modern style may not ring every traveler’s bells, rather Spartan room decor. | Rooms from: €140 | 113 rue Dr. Albert Barraud | 05–56–44–00–45 | www.lamaisonbordeaux.com | 14 | No meals.

Quality Hôtel Bordeaux Centre.

HOTEL | At the heart of Bordeaux’s pedestrian center, this fully modernized hotel—in a 19th-century building in the old part of town—has compact, deep-toned rooms, and a helpful reception staff; it’s the place to stay if you want businesslike contemporary comfort without original character. Pros: convenient location beside the Grand Théâtre; functional rooms. Cons: somewhat generic furnishings; parking is five minutes away. | Rooms from: €135 | 27 rue du Parlement-Ste-Catherine | 05–56–81–95–12 | www.qualityhotelbordeauxcentre.com | 84 rooms | No meals.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS

Aux Quatre Coins du Vin.

This sleek wine and tapas bar has dispensing machines that allow you to taste as many wines as you want in a single sitting. | 8 rue de la Devise | 05–57–34–37–29.

Café des Moines.

To discover the local band scene, check out Café des Moines, but don’t wait too late because the live music in this small bar ends before midnight. | 12 rue des Menuts | 05–56–92–01–61.

Café Utopia.

Housed in an old church, Utopia is a unique art house movie theatre with original architecture still visible in certain cinema rooms. You can also drink and dine at the casual canteen inside. | 5 pl. Camille-Jullian | 05–56–52–00–03 | www.cinemas-utopia.org/bordeaux/.

Comptoir du Jazz.

Near the station, this is the place not only for jazz, but also blues, soul, and funk. Log on to the website for the latest line-up. | 58–59 quai Paludate | 05–56–49–15-55 | www.leportdelalune.com.

Grand Théâtre.

Arguably one of the most beautiful historic theaters in Europe, the Grand Théâtre puts on performances of French plays and, occasionally, operas. The venue (which can be visited on guided tours) is an 18th-century showpiece studded with marble muses. | Pl. de la Comédie | 05–56–00–85–95 | www.opera-bordeaux.com.

l’Apollo.

A casual, friendly pub with several choices of draft beer, l’Apollo comes to life around aperitif hour—and there’s almost always a billiards game underway. | 19 pl. Fernand-Lafargue | 05–56–01–25–05.

Le Bistrot.

This is the all-night club for hip-hop, disco, and theme nights like “mother funk-in” and “prohibition”—but come dressed up, as there’s no admittance without a tenue correcte (avoid running shoes). | 50 quai de Paludate.

SHOPPING

Between the cathedral and the Grand Théâtre are numerous pedestrian streets (Rue Ste-Catherine being the biggest), where stylish stores and clothing boutiques abound. Bordeaux may favor understatement, but there’s no lack of elegance in and around its Golden Triangle shopping district.

Bear in mind that the soldes (sales) start in France at the height of summer, especially just before the Bastille (July 14) weekend.

Baillardran.

With five stores in Bordeaux alone, Baillardran is going to be hard to walk by without at least looking in its windows at those indigenous sweet delights, Bordelais cannelés! Much like a Doric column in miniature, the small indented, caramelized cakes, made with vanilla and a dash of rum, are a delicious regional specialty. | 55 cours de l’Intendance | 05–56–52–92–64 | www.baillardran.com.

BD Fugue Café.

To experience the French fascination for comic books, take a peek in the BD Fugue bookstore where you’ll find TinTin alive and well. The café in the back is a nice place to get a feel for the bande dessinée (comic book) scene. | 10 rue de la Merci | 05–56–52–16–60.

Fromagerie Deruelle.

For a grand selection of cheeses—along with raw milk, smoked-sea-salt butter, bulk honey, and all things creamy and tasty—stop in at Elodie Deruelle’s shop, Fromagerie Deruelle. | 66 rue du Pas-Saint-Georges | 05–57–83–04–15.

Grand Déballage de Brocante.

Within the shadow of the church of Saint Michel, a few blocks south of the Pont de Pierre and just off the river, one of the country’s largest flea markets operates every second Sunday during the months of March, June, September, and December—all day long. Year-round, a weekly Sunday flea market is also held here, which is just the ticket if you’re looking for real bargains away from the storefronts or need a nice excuse to explore the historic St-Michel quarter. | Pl. St-Michel.

Jean d’Alos Fromager-Affineur.

For an exceptional selection of cheeses, go to Jean d’Alos Fromager-Affineur. | 4 rue Montesquieu | 05–56–44–29–66.

La Fabrique Pains et Bricoles.

Want Bordeaux’s best bread to go with your cheese? Get in line. Apparently, the word’s out about La Fabrique Pains et Bricoles because the queue is out the door at this fine bakery—and that’s always a good sign. | 47 rue du Pas-Saint-Georges | 05–56–44–84–26.

Vinothèque.

Inside the École du Vin, Vinothèque sells top-ranked Bordeaux wines. | 8 cours du XXX-Juillet | 05–57–10–41–41 | www.vinotheque-bordeaux.com/.

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Margaux | Pauillac | St-Émilion

All along the western side of the Gironde estuary south, until you hit the meeting point of the Dordogne and Garonne rivers just north of Bordeaux city, you will encounter the almost mythical Médoc wine region. Farthest north is the Médoc appellation itself. To the south of this, the Paulliac appellation surrounds the Saint-Estéphe and Saint Julien appellations, which lie nearer to the estuary. Closer to Bordeaux, and just south of the Paulliac region, is the conglomeration of the Listrac, Moulis, Margaux, and (nearest to the city along the Garonne) the Haut-Médoc appellations.

Above the city, the D2—or Route des Châteaux—veers northwest through most of the wine country along the Gironde all the way to Talais, and the D1215 (farther west) runs through the other side of the region, giving access to appellations like Listrac and Moulis, which the D2 bypasses.

Wines from the Médoc are made predominantly from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape, and can taste dry, even austere, when young. The better ones often need 15 to 25 years before “opening up” to reveal their full spectrum of complex flavors. More celebrated vintages are found 35 km (21 miles) to the east of the city in the medieval region of St-Émilion. Here, vineyards that are family owned and relatively small—on average, just 17 acres each— are divided into two appellations, St-Émilion and St-Émilion Grand Cru. At the region’s heart lies the beautiful wine town of St-Émilion.

TIP If you want to get into the Médoc from Bordeaux by car make sure to get off the road that encircles Bordeaux (the “Rocade”) using Sortie (Exit) 7.

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MARGAUX

30 km (18.6 miles) north of Bordeaux.

Margaux is home to the eponymous appellation that landed more châteaux in the original wine classification of 1855 than any other in Bordeaux. The appellation was a favorite of Thomas Jefferson, who supposedly ordered several cases of the 1784 Château Margaux during a visit to the region. But the unexciting village of Margaux itself still wouldn’t be much without the famed terroir that surrounds it.

Getting Here

TransGironde buses connect Bordeaux with Margaux (90 mins, €2.50) three times a day. The more expensive TER train (€7.50) runs roughly every hour and gets you here in 45 minutes.

Château Lascombes.

This classically elegant 17th-century château is actually a facade for a sleek and modern operation. Historically considered an under-performer according to its second grand cru classification, Château Lascombes welcomes novices, wine lovers, and professionals to take a free guided tour of the vineyards and cellars followed by a tasting (by appointment only). | 05–57–88–70–66 | www.chateau-lascombes.com.

Château Margaux.

Housed in a magnificent neoclassical building from 1810, Château Margaux is recognized as a producer of premiers crus, and its wine ranks with Graves’s Haut-Brion as one of Bordeaux’s five finest reds. As with most of the top Bordeaux châteaux, visits and tastings are by appointment only. While there’s no charge for these, appointments are reserved for serious seekers accompanied by professionals in the trade. | 05–57–88–83–83 | www.chateau-margaux.com.

Château Palmer.

It is said that in some years the wines of Château Palmer (classified as a third cru) can rival those of neighboring Château Margaux (a premier cru). Since 2004, the estate has been under the direction of a young agronomist-oenologist who has overseen a revitalization of the operation; it accepts visitors at no charge, weekdays by appointment. | 05–57–88–72–72 | www.chateau-palmer.com.

PAUILLAC

90 km (56 miles) north of Bordeaux.

Pauillac lays claim to three of the five Bordeaux grand crus—Lafite-Rothschild, Latour, and Mouton-Rothschild. It’s said that Pauillac wines are textbook Bordeaux in style, with the ability to age and evolve for decades. But if the posh prices of these top reds aren’t for you, ask about bike rentals at the town’s tourist office and pedal off to visit any of the slightly less expensive wineries nearby. Pauillac is the prettiest of all the towns and villages in the Médoc, so just strolling the riverfront or lingering at a waterside restaurant has its own rewards.

Getting Here

If you’re heading north, you’ll have to make your way to or through Pauillac. TransGironde runs buses from Bordeaux three times a day (2 hrs, €2.50). TER trains cost extra (€10.20), but they’re faster (1 hr, 15 mins) and more frequent; at least 12 from Bordeaux arrive daily at the Gare de Pauillac on 2 bis, place Verdun.

Visitor Information

Pauillac Tourist Office. | La Verrerie | 05–56–59–03–08 | www.pauillac-medoc.com.

Château Lafite-Rothschild.

Lafite-Rothschild is among the most resonant names in the wine world. Even by the giddy standards of the Médoc, Lafite—owned by the Rothschild family since 1868 and a recorded producer since 1234—is a temple of wine making at its most memorable. Prices may be sky-high, but no one fortunate enough to sample one of the classic vintages will forget the experience in a hurry. Too bad you can’t visit the family château on the grounds—its rooms are the defining examples of le style Rothschild, one of the most opulent styles of 19th-century interior decoration. | 05–56–59–26–83 | www.lafite.com | Free | Nov.–July, by appointment only at 2 and 3:30; reserve at least 2 wks in advance.

Château Latour.

Tastings and tours at the renowned Château Latour are typically free, but very selective—you have to be a serious taster, accompanied by a guide or professional in the wine trade, and you will be expected to make a purchase. Reservations are also required, and these must sometimes be made a month in advance. | Saint-Lambert | 05–56–73–19–80 | www.chateau-latour.com

Château Mouton-Rothschild.

Most of the great vineyards in this area are strictly private, although the owners are usually receptive to inquiries about visits from bona fide wine connoisseurs. One, however, has long boasted a welcoming visitor center: Mouton-Rothschild, whose eponymous wine was brought to perfection in the 1930s by that flamboyant figure Baron Philippe de Rothschild. The baron’s daughter, Philippine, continues to lavish money and love on this growth, so wine fans flock here for either the one-hour visit, which includes a tour of the cellars, chai (wine warehouse), and museum, or the slightly longer version that’s topped off with a tasting. | Le Pouyalet | 05–56–73–21–29 | www.chateau-mouton-rothschild.com | €6.50; €16 with tasting | Mon.–Thurs. 9:30–11 and 2–4, Fri. 9:30–11 and 2–3, by appointment only; reserve at least 2 wks in advance.

WHERE TO STAY

Château Cordeillan-Bages.

HOTEL | Though the clean-lined, contemporary interior of this 17th-century, stone-faced, wine-producing mansion may not speak to everyone, the vines growing right up to the property, the luxury rooms, the sommelier’s dream of a wine cellar (with over 200 different Champagnes alone), and the celebrated restaurant are definite inducements. The restaurant’s famed chef, Jean-Luc Rocha, easily makes up for any inconsistencies in what some might call a blandly modern atmosphere, and the château’s own cru bourgeois is a wine worth getting to know. Pros: lovely marble building; tranquil location; top chef in residence; expert wine-tasting and discovery courses offered. Cons: somewhat faded modern decor; remote with airport 45 km (27 miles) away—but you could ask to use the château’s helipad. | Rooms from: €203 | Rte. des Châteaux, 1½ km (1 mile) south of town | 05–56–59–24–24 | www.cordeillanbages.com | 24 rooms, 4 suites | Closed late Dec.–mid-Mar. | No meals.

France & Angleterre.

HOTEL | Occupying a low-slung, 19th-century building that overlooks the quaint waterfront and Gironde estuary, this low-key spot is a convenient choice if you wish to explore Pauillac’s winding streets. The restaurant serves local specialties (such as lamprey in a Médoc wine and shallot sauce) but looks underwhelming, with plain white walls and framed prints. Pros: central location; estuary views. Cons: small, generic rooms; budget furnishings. | Rooms from: €75 | 3 quai Albert-Pichon | 05–56–59–01–20 | www.hoteldefrance-angleterre.com | 28 rooms | Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Jan. | No meals.

ST-ÉMILION

74 km (41 miles) southeast of Pauillac, 35 km (23 miles) east of Bordeaux.

Suddenly the sun-fired flatlands of Pomerol break into hills and send you tumbling into St-Émilion. This jewel of a town has old buildings of golden stone, ruined town walls, well-kept ramparts offering magical views, and a church hewn into a cliff. Sloping vineyards invade from all sides, and thousands of tourists invade down the middle, many thirsting for the red wine and macaroons that bear the town’s name. The medieval streets, delightfully cobbled (though often very steep), are filled with craft shops, bakeries, cafés, restaurants, and—of course—wine stores (St-Émilion reaches maturity earlier than other Bordeaux reds and is often better value for the money than Médoc or Graves). For the best export prices try Ets Martin (25 rue Guadet | www.martinvins.com), or climb the stairs to the cremant (sparkling wine) specialist and its bar a bulles (bubbles bar) Les Cordaliers (www.lescordeliers.com), where you can buy a glass or bottle of Bordeaux’s bubbly to sip in a lovely courtyard beneath 13th-century cloister ruins. Note that the town’s Office de Tourisme organizes tours of the pretty local vineyards, as well as assorted wine-theme classes and workshops. It also rents bikes (€15 per day) if you’d prefer to explore the surrounding area independently.

Getting Here

Direct TER trains from Bordeaux depart at least a dozen times daily during the week and six times daily on weekends and holidays (37 mins, €9.20). It will cost you €2.50 if you opt to take a TransGironde bus from Bordeaux to St-Émilion, the trip being a two-pronged affair with a changeover in Libourne and a total travel time of about an hour.

Visitor Information

St-Émilion Tourist Office. | Pl. des Cremeaux | 05–57–55–28–28 | www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Château Angelus.

Named for the prayer-signaling church bells that can be heard from its vineyards, this fabled château is a premier grand cru property. | 05–57–24–71–39 | www.angelus.com.

Château Ausone.

Just south of the town walls, Château Ausone is an estate that is ranked with Château Angelus as a producer of St-Émilion’s finest wines. | 05–57–24–24–57 | chateau-ausone.fr.

Château du Roi (King’s Castle).

A stroll along the 13th-century ramparts takes you to the Château du Roi. To this day nobody knows whether it was Henry III of England or King Louis VIII of France who chose the site and ordered its building.

Église Monolithe (Monolithic Church).

One of Europe’s largest underground churches, the Église Monolithe was hewn out of the rock face between the 9th and 12th century by monks faithful to the memory of St-Émilion, an eighth-century hermit and miracle worker. Its spire-top clocher (bell tower) rises out of the bedrock, dominating the center of town. | Pl. du Marché | € 7.

Place du Marché.

From the castle ramparts, cobbled steps lead down to Place du Marché, a leafy square where cafés remain open late into the balmy summer night—just be prepared for the inflated prices they charge.

WHERE TO EAT

Chai Pascal.

BISTRO | This cozy yet stylish restaurant and wine bar is popular with locals in the wine trade. Wood tables, lounge chairs, and understated artwork on the original stone walls give it a casual, intellectual vibe. The menu is limited, but made fresh and very good value compared to the generally elevated prices of St-Émilion. TIP Free Wi-Fi is available. | Average main: €17 | 37 rue Guadet | 05–57–24–52–45 | www.chai-pascal.com | July–Oct., daily noon–11; Nov.–June, closed Sun. and no dinner Mon.

Chez Germaine.

BRASSERIE | Family cooking and regional dishes are the focus at this central St-Émilion eatery, which serves lunch only. The upstairs dining room and the terrace are both pleasant places to enjoy reasonably priced set menus. Grilled meats and fish are house specialties; for dessert, order the almond macaroons. | Average main: €16 | 13 pl. du Clocher | 05–57–74–49–34 | Closed mid Nov.–mid-Feb.

WHERE TO STAY

Auberge de la Commanderie.

HOTEL | Close to the ramparts, this 19th-century hotel has a gorgeous, white-shuttered facade that blends in beautifully with St-Émilion’s stonework. Public areas have vineyard views; and guest rooms (some with exposed stone walls, others with bright murals) range from pint-size to generously-proportioned. No. 2, 3, 7, and 8 overlook the small garden. Pros: free parking; inside the village. Cons: some rooms are bare-bones and very small; mod color scheme may be too bold for some tastes. | Rooms from: €90 | Rue des Cordeliers | 05–57–24–70–19 | www.aubergedelacommanderie.com | 17 rooms | Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Feb. | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Grand Barrail Château Hôtel & Spa.

HOTEL | Presiding over the picturesque vineyards encircling St. Emilion, this fairy-tale Belle Époque château has gorgeous guest rooms that are at once classic and contemporary (for the full storybook experience, ask for one in the main 19th-century building rather than the modern luxury annex). Biking distance from the medieval town center, the property also includes surrounding parkland, gardens, and an excellent spa, making it the ideal place to enjoy the good life while investigating St-Émilion’s best vintages. The château’s restaurant is equally magical with its stained-glass-domed dining rooms. Pros: expansive vineyard views; special spa packages; golf and hot-air balloon rides nearby. Cons: pricey; ambience so fairy-tale-esque it borders on unoriginal. | Rooms from: €340 | Rte. de Libourne, 4 km (2½ miles) northwest of St-Émilion on D243 | 05–57–55–37–00 | www.grand-barrail.com | 41 rooms, 5 suites | No meals.

Le Relais de Franc Mayne.

HOTEL | Once a relay station for weary travelers on an ancient Gallo-Roman path, this luxury boutique hotel in the vineyards surrounding St. Emilion today provides considerably more comfort with its eclectic-chic rooms and elegant dining and lounge areas. Owned by the Belgian-French Laviale family, Château Franc Mayne is a grand cru classé wine-producing property. A state-of-the-art seminar room, tasting room, welcome center, and animated tour of their acres of underground cellar (remnants from 11th-century limestone excavation) make it an interesting base for a few days of wine discovery and relaxation. Ask about the tree-house room—literally in the trees. Pros: walking or biking distance to town through quintessential vineyards; a chemical-free natural swimming pool. Cons: room designs are themed (African lodge, pop art, Indian fusion); overly shiny welcome center distracts. | Rooms from: €200 | 14 la Gomerie | 05–57–24–62–61 | www.relaisfrancmayne.com | 12 rooms | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | L’Hostellerie de Plaisance.

HOTEL | Flaunting a unique interior design masterminded by Alberto Pinto and an elite location in the upper part of town, just across the way from the famous Église Monolithe, this stunning Italianate mansion has long been considered the top hotel in St-Émilion. Public areas and appealing guest rooms are a symphony of tangerines, beiges, and blacks (too bad about the gaudy paintings); many rooms come with their own terrace overlooking the tile roofs of the town, and some have excellent views of the vineyards. The dining room (closed Sunday and Monday) is luxuriously understated and makes an elegant stage for Chef Philippe Etchebest’s exotic menu: the crab stuffed with cabbage, pork with mango chutney, or truffled bananas are all home runs. Pros: superstar style; ideally located in St-Émilion proper. Cons: certain rooms are small; pricey (breakfast alone is €30 per person). | Rooms from: €390 | 3 pl. du Clocher | 05–57–55–07–55 | www.hostellerie-plaisance.com | 14 rooms, 3 suites | Closed mid-Dec.–Feb. | No meals.

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Main Table of Contents

Welcome to The Dordogne

Western Dordogne to Rocamadour

Eastern Perigord to Brantôme

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | What’s Where | Planner | Eating and Drinking Well in the Dordogne

Updated by Jennifer Ditsler-Ladonne

Want to smile happily ever after? Linger in a fantasyland full of castles, cliff-top châteaux, and storybook villages? Join the club. Since the 1990s the Dordogne region has ranked among the hottest destinations in France. Formerly one of those off-the-beaten-path areas, it’s now in danger of getting four-starred, boutiqued, and postcarded to death, but scratch the surface and you can still find one of the most authentic and appealing regions of rural France.

What’s more—and unlike the Loire Valley, for example, where attractions are often far apart—you can discover romantic riverside château after château with each kilometer traveled. Then factor in four troglodyte villages, numerous natural gouffres (chasms), the sky-kissing village of Rocamadour, and the most famous prehistoric sights in the world, and you can see why all these attractions have not gone unnoticed: in July and August even the smallest village is often packed with sightseers.

The Dordogne département (province) is in the Aquitaine region of southwest France, where, above the river valleys, oak and chestnut forests crowd in on about 1,200 châteaux, most from the 13th and 14th centuries. The area is marked by rich, luxuriant valleys, through which flow clear-water rivers such as the Dordogne, Isle, Dronne, Vézére, and Lot. Separating the valleys are rugged plateaux of granite and limestone, sharp outcroppings of rock, and steep, sheer cliffs. Offering a nice contrast to the region’s rugged physiognomy and nature sauvage (wilderness) are hyperpicturesque villages such as La Roque-Gageac, wedged between rocky cliffs and the Dordogne River.

The region is centered on Sarlat, and its impeccably restored medieval buildings make it a great place to use as a base. Even better, the area around this town is honeycombed with dozens of grottes (caves) filled with Paleolithic drawings, etchings, and carvings. Just north of Sarlat is Lascaux, the “Louvre” of Cro-Magnon man and perhaps the most notable prehistoric sight.

Fast-forward 30,000 years. The modern era dawns as the region comes under Merovingian rule in the 9th century. Subsequently divided up by the dukes of Aquitaine, it later came under English rule and was returned to the French crown around 1370. The crown complicated matters further by giving the area to the Spanish house of Bourbon in 1574, which meant Henry of Navarre inherited it … but in 1589 Henry became Henry IV, king of France, so the region returned to the French crown once again. Well, history is repeating itself, at least from an English perspective, as over the last several decades the British have moved back here in droves. They see the Dordogne as the quintessential French escape—and now the rest of the world is following in their footsteps.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Fantastic food: Périgord truffles, foie gras, walnuts, plums, and myriad species of mushrooms jostle for attention on restaurant menus here—and the goose-liver pâté is as good as it gets.

Rock stars: Lascaux is like the Louvre of Paleolithic art, and millions have witnessed prehistory writ large on its spectacularly painted cave walls.

Religious Rocamadour: Climb toward heaven up the towering cliff to place St-Amadour’s seven chapels and you might be transported to a better place.

Sarlat’s Cité Médiévale: Feast your eyes on Sarlat’s honey-color houses and 16th-century streets, and then just feast at the hundred or so wine and foie gras shops.

Versailles in the sky: A dizzying 400 feet above the Dordogne River, the Jardin de Marqueyssac is a glorious garden with a 3-km (2-mile) maze of topiaries, parterres, and hedges.

GETTING ORIENTED

Just northeast of Bordeaux, the region of Périgord is famed for its prehistoric art, truffle-rich cuisine, and once-upon-a-time villages. The best of these delights are found in the beloved département (province) called the Dordogne. Part of the Aquitaine region, this living postcard is threaded by the Dordogne River, which, after its descent from the mountainous Massif Central, weaves westward past prehistoric sites like Lascaux. Astounding, too, are the medieval cliff-hewn villages like Rocamadour—provided that you manage to peer through the crowds in high season.

WHAT’S WHERE

Western Dordogne to Rocamadour. The western part of the Dordogne is rife with castles, like those at Monbazillac and Biron; and lands cultivated by peasant farmers for centuries ring bastide towns, such as Monpazier, which were once heavily fortified. Heading southeast, the Lot Valley—a 50-km (31-mile) gorge punctuated by medieval villages—is anchored by the lively town of Cahors. Nearby St-Cirq-Lapopie is like a Renaissance-era time machine, while Rocamadour’s sky-touching Cité Religieuse is one of France’s most famous pilgrimage shrines.

Eastern Périgord to Brantôme. You’ll have a tough time figuring out which sector of the Dordogne is the most beautiful, but many give the prize to the Périgord Noir. Immerse yourself in the past at Sarlat-la-Canéda, a regional capital so beautifully preserved that film crews flock here for its 16th- and 17th-century turrets and towers. Nearby are the riverside village of La Roque-Gageac and the hilltop castle at Beynac. To the north is the Vézère Valley, the prehistoric capital of France, home to fabled Lascaux. Beyond lies the thriving little city of Périgueux.

PLANNER

WHEN TO GO

The Dordogne has a temperate climate, but it’s not Provence. Because this is France’s third-largest département, local differences abound—winds blow in from the Atlantic along the western borders, and varying topographic and continental weather conditions affect the eastern and northern areas. Sarlat, in the southeast, tends to get a lot more winter sun than other areas. As you move westward toward the Atlantic conditions get foggier, cloudier, and colder; however, in summer the southwestern Dordogne is sunnier than the rest of the region. All in all, spring and autumn are the best times to visit since there aren’t as many tourists around, and the weather is still pleasant.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

From a practical perspective, staying in Sarlat or thereabouts would be your best plan if you want to really appreciate this diverse region. Not only is the historic town a worthwhile destination in its own right, it’s also near the top sights: Lascaux and Les Eyzies de Tayac lie to the north; Beynac-et-Cazenac, La Roque-Gageac, and Domme are immediately south; Rocamadour is a little farther to the southeast. Sarlat is also just off the A20 highway, which brings you south to Cahors and north to the regional airport in Brive La Gaillarde (the Bergerac airport to the west is a bit farther afield).

After getting yourself situated, you can explore the camera-ready villages, imposing châteaux, and captivating caves that sprinkle this part of France like so much historical and cultural confetti. If you prefer solitude and unspoiled scenery you won’t have any trouble finding them in the vast, sparsely populated countryside. All you have to do is head for the hills—literally. Wherever you go, just be sure to leave plenty of time for dining. The Dordogne’s edible delights (foie gras and truffles being chief among them) are as famous as the region’s varied sights.

VISITING THE PREHISTORIC WONDERS

Perhaps the Dordogne’s most famous sights are its prehistoric caves and grottos, with the legendary Lascaux topping the list. It’s been closed to the public since 1963, but many others are open for viewing. Lascaux II can accept up to 2,000 visitors a day; on the other hand, the Grotte des Combarelles takes only 40 in total and no more than six on any given tour, thereby guaranteeing an intimate look.

Either because demand far outstrips supply, or because tickets are so limited, it’s recommended that you call or email to prebook tickets whenever possible. For places like Lascaux, reserve as far ahead as you can (up to a year). For less popular sights, a couple of days should suffice. Alternately, you can try signing up for a day-of tour first thing in the morning.

The main tourist offices in the region, such as the one at Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, have the lowdown on all the caves and prehistoric sights in the area. If you can’t secure tickets in advance, it’s worth stopping by the cave of your choice even if the office says they are sold out as space often opens up. Be forewarned: you might get signed onto a tour that starts in a couple of hours, leaving you with time to kill, so have a game plan handy for other places to visit nearby.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Air Travel

The closest major airport is in Bordeaux, 88 km (55 miles) west of Bergerac, but the Dordogne has regional airports in Bergerac itself as well as in Brive La Gaillarde. The former, Aéroport de Bergerac-Périgord-Dordogne, receives regular flights from Paris Orly, operated by Twin Jet (www.twinjet.fr), plus two dozen flights per week from the U.K., operated by budget carriers Flybe (www.flybe.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com). Ryanair also lands further east at Aéroport de Brive–Vallée de la Dordogne, as does the low-cost airline HOP! (www.hop.fr), thereby providing links with London, Paris, and select other French cities.

Airport Information

Aéroport de Bergerac-Périgord-Dordogne. | 05–53–22–25–25 | www.bergerac.aeroport.fr.

Aéroport de Bordeaux-Mérignac. | 05–56–34–50–50 | www.bordeaux.aeroport.fr.

Aéroport de Brive–Vallée de la Dordogne. | 05–55–22–40–00 | www.aeroport-brive-vallee-dordogne.com.

Bike Travel

The Dordogne is prime biking territory. In particular, the hour-long ride between Rocamadour and the Gouffre de Padirac might just be one of your fondest experiences in France. And let’s not forget daylong bike trips through the neighboring Célé Valley and the 35-km (22-mile) trip to the prehistoric Grotte du Pech Merle outside the town of Cabrerets. Happily, there are has plenty of cyclotourisme operators who rent bikes in assorted styles and sizes. Electric bicycles are increasingly available, too.

Contacts

Atout Loc. | 26 rte. du Lot, | Sarlat | 05–53–28–18–33.

Bike Bus. | Castelnaud La Chapelle | 06–08–94–42–01 | www.bike-bus.com.

Boat Travel

One popular way to see the Dordogne’s landscape is by canoe or kayak. Rental depots spring up frequently along the rivers of the region, especially near campgrounds. The curving and winding Vézère River is a very boat-friendly stretch, while the valley of the Lot River is famous for its dreamy dawn mists. Single-person boats go for about €10 to €20 an hour, about double that for two-person boats. Some rental companies will take you by car to a departure point upstream, and some will even provide tents and waterproof casings for overnight trips. For more information, pick up boating brochures at any tourist office in the region.

Bus Travel

The regional bus operator in the Dordogne is CFTA. It connects the main towns with 14 bus lines, operated by eight different outfits. The maximum fare is €2, and there are reduced rates if you buy 10 passes (€15), so traveling by bus in the Dorgdogne could save you a lot of money. For urban transport in Périgueux use Peribus, and in Bergerac use TUB (Transports Urbains Bergeracois).

Bus Information

CFTA. | Gare Routière,19 rue Denis-Papin, | Périgueux | 05–53–08–43–13 | www.cftaco.fr.

Peribus. | Pl. Montaigne Périgueux, | Périgueux | 05–53–53–30–37 | peribus.agglo-perigueux.fr.

TUB (Transports Urbains Bergeracois). | Bergerac | 05–53–63–96–97 | www.bergerac.fr/Cadre-de-vie/Deplacements/Transports-Urbains-Bergeracois.

Car Travel

The Dordogne has a surplus of memorable sights, many of them off the beaten path; the public transport system here, however, is limited. So you’ll want a car to maximize touring opportunities and minimize frustration. The A20 is the main route for motorists, extending from Paris almost all the way to Cahors. It connects with the N21 at Limoges, which brings you down into Périgueux and Bergerac. A89 links Bordeaux to Périgueux and D936 runs along the Dordogne Valley from Libourne to Bergerac continuing as D660 toward Sarlat.

Train Travel

The superfast TGV Atlantique service links Paris’s Gare Montparnasse to Bordeaux—the major rail hub in this part of France—covering 585 km (365 miles) in 3½ hours. From Bordeaux, 15 trains daily run to Bergerac (1 hr, 23 mins), at least a dozen serve Périgueux (90 mins), and another six go to Sarlat (2 hrs, 45 mins). If you’re bound for Cahors, in the southern Dordogne, you can get there direct from Paris’s Gare d’Austerlitz in just over five hours.

Train Information

SNCF. | 3635 €0.34 per min | voyages-sncf.fr.

RESTAURANTS

If you’re traveling in the Dordogne between October and March, it’s essential to call restaurants ahead of time to avoid disappointment, as some shut down for the slow season. Closing times, too, can be variable. When you do snag your table, scan the menu for listings of dishes à la périgourdine, which usually mean you’re about to enjoy truffles or foie gras, or perhaps even both.

HOTELS

Advance booking is recommended in the highly popular Dordogne, where hotels fill up quickly, particularly in midsummer. Many country or small-town hotels expect you to have at least one dinner with them, and if you have two meals a day with your lodging and stay several nights, you can save money. Prices off-season (October to May) often drop as much as 20%, but note that a number of hotels are closed from the end of October through March. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION

The main tourist office for the region, the Comité Départemental du Tourisme de la Dordogne, is in Périgueux. Its multilingual website is a great resource (to access English info, simply click the Union Jack icon). Specific areas—including Périgord Noir and the Lot Valley—also have their own helpful websites, as do many of the local tourist offices (listed under town names below). Note that in the small villages a lot of the tourist offices have unusual opening hours.

Contacts

Comité Départemental du Tourisme de la Dordogne. | 25 rue Wilson, | Périgueux | 05–53–35–50–24 | www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr.

Comité Départemental du Tourisme de Lot-et-Garonne. | www.tourisme-lotetgaronne.com.

Les Offices de Tourisme du Périgord Noir. | www.perigordnoir.com.

Tourisme dans le Lot. | 107 quai Cavaignac, | Cahors | 05–65–35–07–09 | www.tourisme-lot.com.

EATING AND DRINKING WELL IN THE DORDOGNE

The Dordogne, or as the French like to call it, the Périgord, is considered by those in the know to have one of the best regional cuisines in the country. Local chefs celebrate the area’s natural abundance in epicurean preparations and simple peasant dishes alike.

The rich resources of the Périgord are legendary: forests and fields are alive with wild game feasting on the nuts and leaves of chestnut, walnut, and oak trees, which encourages the growth of rare mushrooms and coveted truffles. The picturesque, winding rivers are home to trout and crayfish. Rolling fields are filled with grains and vegetables, running alongside orchards of stone fruit.

Few regions in France can boast such a wide selection of local meats (particularly the famed Dordogne foie gras and equally famous pork, duck, and goose dishes); cheeses like Cabécou, Cujassous, Dubjac, Thieviers, and Échougnac; and distinctive wines, liqueurs, and brandies. This amazing variety of ingredients enables chefs here to create nearly everything from local products.

Regional Specialties

Many well-known French meat dishes are named after surrounding villages and towns. Don’t miss steak à la Sarladaise (stuffed with pâté de foie gras) or chicken à la mode de Sorges (stuffed with a mixture of chicken liver, mustard, bacon, and herbs). And for a sure dose of truffles, try any dish with sauce Périgueux or à la périgourdine in its name.

Foie Gras

Goose liver may not sound too enticing, but once you’ve had it there’s no denying this delicious delicacy. The region has numerous farms with advertisements for foie gras everywhere you go, in shop windows and on road signs, portraying plump geese and ducks happily meandering toward you. At any food shop, you’ll find containers of fresh and frozen foie gras, and it is an ever-present restaurant offering, prepared pôelé (panfried, usually accompanied by a sweet side), in a terrine (pâté), or otherwise added to your salads and main courses.

Walnuts

The importance of noix (walnuts) in the Dordogne—and the rest of this country—cannot be overstated because the walnut is the nut here (the translation of noix is simply “nut”). The French make walnut oil for cooking and drizzling on salads, incorporate walnut meat into savory and sweet dishes, and even make alcoholic beverages infused with walnut flavor. In fact, the aperitif of choice in the Dordogne is a sweet dark wine made from green walnuts picked in summer. The immature nuts impart a unique flavor to the wine.

Truffles

Between November and March, the region’s black gold—a fungus called tuber melanosporum—is unearthed and sold for exorbitant prices.

Found at the roots of oak trees by trained dogs and pigs, truffles contribute to the local economy, and to the region’s celebrated cuisine. Their earthy perfume and delicate flavor have inspired countless dishes prepared by home cooks and restaurant chefs alike.

Wine and Liquor

If you are dining on the region’s fabulous bounty, the best accompaniment is a local wine, liqueur, or brandy.

Bergerac is known for its white wines made from Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes, and for its reds made from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc varieties. The area also produces excellent white dessert wines from the Sémillon grape.

The fait maison, or homemade, liqueurs are made from many fruits, including plum, quince, and black currant.

Fruit is also favored here for distilling brandies, with some of the best known made from cherries, grapes, pears, and plums.

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Bergerac | Monbazillac | Monpazier | Biron | Cahors | St-Cirq-Lapopie | Rocamadour

From a bird’s-eye perspective the geographic area in this chapter is known in France by four colors: the Périgord Noir, Blanc, Pourpre, and Vert. Sarlat and its environs are known as the Périgord Noir, or Black Périgord; Périgueux to the north is based in the Périgord Blanc (white) region; Bergerac to the southwest is the Périgord Pourpre (purple); and Brantôme in the far north is in the Périgord Vert (green) region. With more than 2 million visitors every year, the Périgord Noir is the most frequented. But the entire Dordogne relies heavily on travelers, so the local tourist offices have plenty of informative guides and maps to help you enjoy whatever “color” you choose. Many first opt for “purple,” since Bergerac is the main hub for flights (after Bordeaux). Thus we kick things off in Western Dordogne and then head southwest down to the lovely Lot Valley, where dramatic Rocamadour lures throngs of tourists and pilgrims annually.

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BERGERAC

57 km (36 miles) east of St-Émilion via D936, 88 km (55 miles) east of Bordeaux.

Yes, this is the Bergerac of Cyrano de Bergerac fame—but not exactly. The real satirist and playwright Cyrano (1619–55), who inspired Edmond Rostand’s long-nosed swashbuckler, was born in Paris and never set foot anywhere near here. That hasn’t prevented his legend from being preempted by the town fathers, who erected an exceedingly ugly statue of Cyrano and plastered his schnoz all over Bergerac’s promotional materials. Frankly, they needn’t have bothered. The town’s gorgeous old half-timber houses, narrow alleys, riverside setting, and gastronomic specialties are more than enough to attract tourists from Bordeaux or Sarlat, both less than 75 km (46 miles) away. If you’re only coming for the day, try to arrive on Wednesday or Saturday, when colorful farmers markets are held (the latter being the larger of the two).

Getting Here

About 5 km (8 miles) south of town, the Aéroport Bergerac-Perigord-Dordogne receives more than 10 Ryanair and Flybe flights a week. There is no airport shuttle yet, so you have to take a taxi (05–53–23–32–32) into the town center. Fifteen trains daily link Bergerac with Bordeaux (1 hr, 25 mins) and Sarlat (1 hr, 20 mins); regular buses from Périgueux (1 hr, 35 mins) also pull in at the train station on Avenue du 108e. Within Bergerac, the TUB urban bus service will help you get around (€1).

Visitor Information

Bergerac Tourist Office. | 97 rue Neuve d’Argenson | 05–53–57–03–11 | www.bergerac-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Cloître des Récollets.

This former convent is now in the wine business, and its stone-and-brick buildings, dating from the 12th to the 15th century, include galleries, a large vaulted cellar, and a cloister where the Maison des Vins (Wine Center) provides information on—and samples of—local vintages of sweet whites and fruity young reds. | 1 rue des Récollets | 05–53–63–57–55 | Free | Feb.–Apr. and Oct.–Dec., Tues.–Sat. 10:30–12:30 and 2–6; May, June, and Sept., Tues.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–7; July and Aug., daily 10–7.

Périgord Gabarres.

From Easter to October, you can cruise along the Dordogne in an old wooden sailboat operated by Périgord Gabarres; an hour-long trip costs €8.50. | 05–53–24–58–80 | www.gabarres.fr | Easter–Oct., daily 11–6.

Vieille Ville.

Guided walking tours (in English) of the Old Town depart from the tourist office at 11 am on Wednesday in July and August. Tours last 75–90 minutes and cost €4.70.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

L’Imparfait.

FRENCH FUSION | In the heart of old Bergerac, this characterful restaurant has beamed ceilings, openwork stone and brick walls, large lamps, and tall, cane-back chairs. The lunch and dinner menu, which changes with the seasons, is good value, considering you can start with such delights as warm oysters with saffron or a skewer of langoustine with honey and rosemary, and then move on, perhaps, to ravioli in a citron sauce. | Average main: €24 | 8–10 rue des Fontaines | 05–53–57–47–92 | www.imparfait.com.

Bordeaux.

HOTEL | Although it’s been in business since 1855 and has occasionally played host to some famous guests (Francis Bacon and François Mitterand among them), the Bordeaux of today has contemporary furnishings and simple, tidy rooms—the best of which look out on the garden courtyard. The owner, Monsieur Manant, is very helpful. Pros: good location close to the market (held Wednesday and Saturday), the old town, and the train station. Cons: rooms are a little too understated and are in need of some updating. | Rooms from: €78 | 38 pl. Gambetta | 05–53–57–12–83 | www.hotel-bordeaux-bergerac.com | 40 rooms | No meals.

MONBAZILLAC

6 km (4 miles) south of Bergerac via D13.

The hilltop village of Monbazillac provides spectacular views of the sweet-wine–producing vineyards tumbling toward the Dordogne River.

Getting Here

TUB buses on the Bergerac-Bouniagues route travel to Monbazillac three times a day—but the 6 km (3.75 mile) journey takes 40 minutes, so you’re better off driving.

EXPLORING

Château de Monbazillac.

The storybook corner towers of the beautifully proportioned, 16th-century, gray-stone château pay tribute to the fortress tradition of the Middle Ages, but the large windows and sloping roofs reveal a Renaissance influence. Regional furniture and an ornate early-17th-century bedchamber enliven the interior. A wine tasting is included to tempt you into buying a case or two of the famous but expensive bottles. | 05–53–63–65–00 weekdays, 05–53–61–52–52 weekends | www.chateau-monbazillac.com | €7.50 | June–Sept., daily 10–7; May and Oct., daily 10–12:30 and 2–6; Nov., Dec., Feb., and Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–5; Apr. daily 10–noon and 2–6. Closed Jan.

MONPAZIER

45 km (28 miles) southeast of Bergerac via D660.

Built in ocher-color stone by English king Edward I in 1284 to protect the southern flank of his French possessions, Monpazier, on the tiny Dropt River, ranks among “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” (“the most beautiful villages of France”). With three of its original six stone gateways still standing, it is also one of the country’s best-preserved bastide (fortified) communities.

Getting Here

Monpazier is a drive-to destination.

Visitor Information

Monpazier Tourist Office. | Pl. des Cornières | 05–53–22–68–59 | www.pays-des-bastides.com/gb/monpazier.asp.

EXPLORING

Église Saint-Dominique.

This austerely beautiful medieval church dates back to 1284 and the founding of Monpazier, but it was extensively rebuilt in 1450. A new bell, still in use today, was added in 1476. The gorgeous gothic-style wooden choir stalls were added in 1506. | Pl. des Cornières | www.pays-des-bastides.com.

Maison du Chapître (Chapter House).

Opposite the church, this chapter house is the finest medieval building in town. Once used as a barn for storing grain, its wood-beam roof is constructed of chestnut to repel insects.

WHERE TO STAY

Hôtel de France.

HOTEL | Once an outbuilding on the estates of the Château de Biron, the Hôtel de France has never capitalized on its 13th-century heritage but today remains a small, modest family-run hotel that caters less to tourists than to locals—especially at its bar and restaurant ($$), which serves rich regional food. Once you ascend its historic 15th-century masterpiece of a staircase, you’ll find the guest rooms to be a clutter of old furniture (with a plastic-cabinet shower and toilet squeezed into the corner); some are quite large. Pros: central location; great restaurant; helpful staff. Cons: rooms are not nearly as impressive as the restaurant; no Internet service. | Rooms from: €60 | 21 rue St-Jacques | 05–53–22–66–01 | www.hoteldefrancemonpazier.fr | 10 rooms | Closed mid-Nov.–Mar. | Some meals.

BIRON

8 km (5 miles) south of Monpazier via D2/D53.

Getting Here

You’ll want your own wheels to reach Biron.

EXPLORING

Château de Biron.

Stop in Biron to see its massive hilltop castle, the highlights of which include a keep, square tower, and chapel, dating from the Renaissance, and monumental staircases. In addition to the period apartments and the kitchen, with its huge stone-slab floor, there’s a gigantic dungeon, complete with a collection of scarifying torture instruments. The classical buildings were completed in 1760. The Gontaut-Biron family—whose ancestors invented great typefaces centuries ago—has lived here for 14 generations. The château has been undergoing renovations on a room-by-room basis since 2013, but these interfere only minimally with the viewing. TIP It’s well worth renting an audioguide (€3) to get a detailed history, plus specifics about the architecture and decor. | 05–53–05–65–65 | €8 | Mid-Feb.–Apr. 11, Tues.–Sun. 10–12:30 and 2–5; Apr. 12–July 4 and Sept.–Nov. 2, daily 10–1 and 2–6; July 5–Aug., daily 10–7; Nov. 3–Dec., Tues.–Sun. 10–12:30 and 2–5. Closed Jan.–mid-Feb.

CAHORS

60 km (38 miles) southeast of Monpazier via D811.

Less touristy and populated than most of the Dordogne, the Lot Valley has a subtler charm. The clustered towns lining the eponymous river and smaller waterways that cut through the dry, vineyard-covered plateau have a magical, abandoned feel. After exploring them, Cahors (the area’s largest community) offers a pleasant change of pace—especially if you’re an oenophile. Once an opulent Gallo-Roman town, Cahors, sitting snugly within a loop of the Lot River, is famous for its vin de Cahors, a tannic red known to the ancients as “black wine.” Caesar is said to have taken a supply with him when he returned to Rome; another booster was the local bishop who went on to become Pope John XXII—in the 14th century he made his hometown libation the communion wine of the Avignon church. Malbec is the most common grape used here; there’s also a sizable amount of Merlot in the region, with other vintners specializing in the local Jurançon Noir grape. Many small estates offer tastings, and the town tourist office on place François-Mitterrand can direct you to some of the more notable vineyards, including the Domaine de Lagrezette (in Caillac) and the Domaine de St-Didier (in Parnac).

Getting Here

Multiple direct trains per day from Paris’s Gare d’Austerlitz pull into the Cahors station on place Jouinot Gambetta (5 hrs, 10 mins; €75). As in the rest of the Dordogne, buses serving regional routes can be erratic, but they cost only €2 a trip.

Visitor Information

Cahors Tourist Office. | Pl. François-Mitterand | 05–65–53–20–65 | www.tourisme-cahors.com.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale St-Étienne.

The fortresslike cathedral is in Byzantine style and its cloisters connect to the courtyard of the archdeaconry, awash with Renaissance decoration and thronged with townsfolk who come to view art exhibits. | Off Rue du Maréchal-Joffre.

Fodor’s Choice | Pont Valentré.

The town’s finest sight is this 14th-century bridge, its three elegant towers constituting a spellbinding feat of medieval engineering.

WHERE TO STAY

Château de Mercuès.

HOTEL | Set on a rocky spur just outside town, the former home of the count-bishops of Cahors has older rooms in baronial splendor (ask for one of these), as well as unappealing modern ones (which tend to attract midges); others have a mix of French Moderne and medieval-esque furniture that can be jarring, but the ambitious restaurant and great views make up for a lot of sins. lOne of the best guest rooms is “Tour,” with a clever ceiling that slides back to expose the turret. Duck, seafood, and truffles reign in the dining room ($$$$, closed Monday), where Michelin-starred chef Philippe Combet serves a gourmet cuisine equal to the wines from the estate’s highly touted wine cellar. Pros: unbeatable view; great pool. Cons: odd mix of furnishings; lunch served on Saturday and Sunday only. | Rooms from: €380 | 8 km (5 miles) northwest of Cahors on road to Villeneuve-sur-Lot | Mercuès | 05–65–20–00–01 | www.chateaudemercues.com | 24 rooms, 6 suites | Closed Nov.–Mar. | No meals.

Dordogne’s Indulgent Eats

The Dordogne is a land of foie gras and cognac, so travelers get to eat (and quaff) like the royals who once contested this coveted corner of France, staking it out with châteaux-forts and blessing it with Romanesque churches.

Begin by following the winding sprawl of the Dordogne River into the realm of the gavée goose, where force-fed birds with extravagantly plump livers produce one of the world’s most renowned delicacies.

The fat glistens on potatoes, on salty confits, and on rillettes d’oie, a spread of potted goose that melts on the tongue as no mere butter ever could.

Wild mushrooms and truffles (referred to locally as “black diamonds”) weave their musky perfume through dense game pâtés.

Although truffle production is nothing like it used to be, this subterranean edible fungus continues to beguile chefs and foodies.

The truffle forms a symbiotic relationship with the roots of certain trees and plants (in the Périgord region they are mainly found growing from green oaks) to form a part that is technically known as the ascoma, the fruiting body of a fungus.

Mysteriously appearing anytime from November to mid-March in the forests of Périgord (and other areas of Western Europe), the more famous truffes (truffles) are black, but there are also white varieties—hundreds of species in all.

Truffles are savory, zesty, and extremely aromatic, and because of this they have been glorified as a delicacy for thousands of years (if we are to believe old Greek and Roman writings on the subject). They can be canned for export and are often infused into oils.

Traditionally, pigs were used to hunt for truffles; but nowadays dogs are more commonly employed because canines can be taught to point for truffles and, unlike the avaricious piglets, don’t want to eat them when they find them.

Cultivation of the famous fungus by way of inoculating the roots of a host plant seedling with fungal spores has had success, although the manufactured truffles are still thought to taste inferior to the ones naturally found in the forests.

To stand up to such an onslaught of earthy textures and flavors, the best Dordogne wines—like Bergerac and Cahors—have traditionally been coarser vintages.

However, since the 1970s the winegrowers around Cahors have succeeded in mellowing those coarser edges.

And to round it all off? A snifter of amber cognac—de rigueur for the digestion.

Dining thus, in a vine-covered stone ferme auberge (farmhouse inn) deep in the green wilds of the Dordogne, replete with a feast of pâtés, truffles, and cognacs, you begin to see what the 13th-century Plantagenet invaders from England were fighting for.

ST-CIRQ-LAPOPIE

32 km (20 miles) east of Cahors via D653, D662, and D40.

Poised on the edge of a cliff 330 feet up, sublime St-Cirq (pronounced san-seer) looks as though it could slide right into the Lot River. Traversing steep paths and alleyways among flower-filled balconies, you’ll realize it deserves its reputation as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Pretty boutiques, artisan workshops, and tempting eateries invite lingering. But if you feel energetic, the tourist office will direct you to the mostly ruined 13th-century château—it’s a stiff walk away along a path that starts near the Hôtel de Ville. Morning hikes in the misty gorges of the valley are beyond breathtaking.

Getting Here

If you’re driving, there’s plenty of parking up a steep winding hill above the town. Otherwise, the easiest way to access St-Cirq-Lapopie is by taking the Figeac-bound bus from Cahors’s train station (20 mins); St-Cirq is a 25-minute hike from where the bus drops you. From the Tour de Faure bus stop, go back to the D181 (sign says “St-Cirq 2 km”), cross the bridge, and walk uphill. It’s a haul, but worth the effort.

Visitor Information

St-Cirq-Lapopie Tourist Office. | Pl. du Sombral | 05–65–31–31–31 | www.saint-cirqlapopie.com.

EXPLORING

Croisières de St-Cirq-Lapopie.

This cruise line offers popular 75-minute boat rides on a picture-perfect 8-km (5-mile) stretch of the Lot River that meanders below St-Cirq-Lapopie past dramatic cliffs, grottoes, and forest. Adventurous types can rent smaller vessels (€35 per hour for a four-person boat; €120 per day) to explore river and grottos on their own. | 05–65–31–72–25 | www.lot-croisieres.com.

Grotte du Pech Merle.

Discovered in 1922, the Grotte du Pech Merle displays 4,000 square feet of prehistoric drawings and carvings. Particularly known for its peculiar polka-dot horses, impressions of the human hand, and footprints, this is the most impressive “real” Cro-Magnon cave that is open to the public in France. The admission charge includes a 20-minute film, an hour-long tour, and a visit to the adjacent museum. Tickets are at a premium, with a daily limit of 700 visitors, so for peak summer days book at least one week in advance. TIP If you like cycling, it’s lovely to arrive by bike from St-Cirq-Lapopie. | 10 km (6 miles) north of St-Cirq-Lapopie | 05–65–31–27–05 | www.pechmerle.com | €10 | Early Apr.–early Nov., daily 9:30–5; select days in winter (see website).

WHERE TO STAY

L’Auberge du Sombral.

B&B/INN | If location and views are your top priorities, then you’ve come to the right place. Poised on a quaint cobbled square in the center of town, this old auberge is covered in grapevines and roses; inside, the functional guest rooms are decorated with local art and cozy rugs, while the charming dining room ($) dishes out the expected culinary specialties at lunch daily and at dinner on Friday and Saturday. Pros: can’t beat the location. Cons: things could be spiffed up a bit. | Rooms from: €75 | 05–65–31–26–08 | www.lesombral.com | 8 rooms | Closed Nov. 15–Apr. 1 | No meals.

ROCAMADOUR

72 km (45 miles) north of St-Cirq via Labastide-Murat.

A medieval village that seems to defy the laws of gravity, Rocamadour surges out of a cliff 1,500 feet above the Alzou River gorge—an awe-inspiring sight that makes this one of the most-visited tourist spots in France. Rocamadour got its name after the thousand-year-old body of St. Amadour was discovered “quite whole” in 1166. Legend has it that Amadour was actually a publican named Zacheus, who entertained Jesus in his home and, after the crucifixion, came to Gaul, eventually establishing a private chapel in the cliff here. In any case, his saintly remains soon began working miracles, and the sanctuary that housed them began attracting pilgrims who’d ascend the 216 steps to the church on their knees. Making the climb on foot is a sufficient reminder of the medieval penchant for agonizing penance; today two elevators lift weary souls. Unfortunately, the summer influx of a million tourists can itself be agonizing.

Getting Here

Brive–Vallée de la Dordogne—the nearest airport, 54 km (34 miles) north of Rocamadour—receives regular flights from Paris. Direct trains run from Toulouse (2½ hrs, €32.80) and Brive (40 mins, €9.10); keep in mind, however, that the Rocamadour–Padirac station is 4 km (3 miles) outside the village. Walking takes about an hour, biking 15 minutes, or you can call Taxi Pascal Herbert (05–65–50–14–82, 06–81–60–14–60 cell). Motorists should note that cars are not allowed in Rocamadour; you must park in the lot below it.

Visitor Information

Rocamadour Tourist Office. | Maison du Tourisme | 05–65–33–22–00 | www.vallee-dordogne-rocamadour.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Cité Religieuse.

The Basse Ville’s Rue Piétonne, the main pedestrian street, is crammed with crêperies, tea salons, and hundreds of tourists, many of whom are heading heavenward by taking the Grand Escalier (staircase) or elevator (€2.40) from Place de la Carreta up to the Cité Religieuse, set halfway up the cliff. If you walk, pause at the landing 141 steps up to admire the fort. Once up, you can see tiny Place St-Amadour and its seven chapels: the basilica of St-Sauveur opposite the staircase; the St-Amadour crypt beneath the basilica; the chapel of Notre-Dame, with its statue of the Black Madonna, to the left; the chapels of John the Baptist, St-Blaise, and Ste-Anne to the right; and the Romanesque chapel of St-Michel built into an overhanging cliff. St-Michel’s two 12th-century frescoes—depicting the Annunciation and the Visitation—have survived in superb condition.

Hôtel de Ville.

The town is split into four levels joined by steep steps. The lowest level is occupied by the village of Rocamadour itself, and mainly accessed through the centuries-old Porte du Figuier (Fig Tree Gate). Past this portal, the Cité Médiévale, also known as the Basse Ville, though in parts grotesquely touristy, is full of beautifully restored structures, such as the 15th-century Hôtel de Ville, near the Porte Salmon, which houses the tourist office and an excellent collection of tapestries. | 05–65–33–22–00 | €2 | July and Aug., daily 9:30–7; Jan., Feb., Nov., and Dec., daily 2–5; Mar.–June, Sept. and Oct., daily 10:30–noon and 2–6.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice | Château de la Treyne.

HOTEL | Certainly the most spectacular château-hotel in the Dordogne, this Relais & Châteaux outpost sits amid Baroque gardens perched over the Dordogne River. Located in Lacave, northwest of Rocamadour, La Treyne was nearly destroyed in the 16th-century Wars of Religion but reconstructed under Louis XIII. Today the Michelin-starred Great Lounge restaurant (no lunch Tuesday–Friday) is a feast of crystal, boiserie, and Louis Treize chairs. Stylish guest rooms range from the stunning Prison Doreé (or “Golden Prison,” set atop the castle tower) and the hyper-charming Soleil Levant (the former chapel, now glowing in historic lime and yellow), to a new deluxe suite with gorgeous antiques and views over the river. Pros: sparklingly renovated; modern amenities like Jacuzzis and minibars. Cons: restaurant is pricey ($$$$). | Rooms from: €200 | 15 km (9 miles) northwest of Rocamadour | Lacave | 05–65–27–60–60 | www.chateaudelatreyne.com | 12 rooms, 5 suites | Closed Jan. 2–Mar. 21 | No meals.

Lion d’Or.

HOTEL | In the center of Rocamadour, this simple, bargain-price, family-run hotel has a restaurant ($) with panoramic views of the valley, where genial owners Emmanuel and Sally Vernillet serve up delicious truffle omelets and homemade foie gras au Noilly. Pros: location in the Old Town; amazing views from restaurant. Cons: rooms have floral wallpaper and linens that might not be to everyone’s taste. | Rooms from: €55 | Cité Médiévale | 05–65–33–62–04 | www.liondor-rocamadour.com | 75 rooms | Closed Jan. and Feb. | No meals.

Manoir de Malagorse.

B&B/INN | Using local materials and furnishings, Anna and Abel (a Franco-British husband-and-wife team) have spent more than a dozen years gracefully restoring the 19th-century stone farm buildings on their 10-acre parcel of quietude; in the process, they’ve brought this refined, family-friendly manor into the 21st century—soothing earth tones set the scene, with light oak floors matching the sand-colored stone walls, which in turn match the blond house dogs. The beautiful barn renovation, comprising more than 1,200 square feet, is a light, ultramodern, self-contained apartment suitable for an entire family. The theme throughout is the art of good living, with Abel providing personalized meals and Anna helping guests drop their city postures as a massage and physical therapist. The hand-picked wine list, television-free rooms, and wide open spaces should appeal to anyone wishing to turn the rest of the world off for a while. Pros: hosts who know great food and wine but keep it simple; lovely breakfast included. Cons: reservations essential for July and August; somewhat remote. | Rooms from: €150 | 26 km (16 miles) northwest of Rocamadour, Rignac | Cuzance | 05–65–27–14–83 | www.manoir-de-malagorse.fr | 4 rooms, 2 suites, 1 self-contained apartment | Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Mar. | Breakfast.

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La Roque-Gageac | Domme | Beynac-et-Cazenac | Sarlat-la-Canéda | Les Eyzies-de-Tayac | Lascaux | Hautefort | Périgueux | Brantôme

Entering the Perigord Noir, a trifecta of top Dordogne sights awaits: the cliff-face village of La Roque-Gageac, the prehistoric grotto in Domme, and the storybook castle at Beynac. Just eastward lies Sarlat, a regional center famed for its half-timber medieval vibe. Northward lies the Vézère Valley: known as the prehistoric capital of France, it is home to celebrated locales like Lascaux, which were settled by primitive man. Continuing north, you arrive at the bustling little city of Périgueux and numerous riverside towns, including historic Brantôme. For three centuries during the Middle Ages, this entire region was a battlefield in the wars between the French and the English. Of the châteaux dotting the area, those at Hautefort and Beynac are among the most spectacular.

LA ROQUE-GAGEAC

55 km (36 miles) west of Rocamadour via Payrac, 10 km (6 miles) southwest of Sarlat via D703.

Across the Dordogne from Domme, in the direction of Beynac, one of the best-restored villages in the valley is huddled romantically beneath a cliff. Crafts shops line its narrow streets, dominated by the outlines of the 19th-century mock-medieval Château de Malartrie and the Manoir de Tarde, with its cylindrical turret. If you leave the main road and climb one of the steep cobblestone paths, you can check out the medieval houses on their natural perches and even hike up the mountain for a magnificently photogenic view down to the village.

Getting Here

No buses serve La Roque-Gageac, so you’ll have to come by car.

WHERE TO STAY

La Plume d’Oie.

B&B/INN | Famed for its eatery, this small inn overlooking the river and limestone cliffs welcomes weary guests with rooms that flaunt some fabulous views. Done up in light fabrics and wicker furniture, the rooms vary in size and price (note that views over the Dordogne also face the busy road, so light sleepers should ask for accommodations in the back). La Plume d’Oie’s major raison d’être is the cheery stone-wall, wood-beam restaurant at which you are expected to have at least one meal (closed Monday and Tuesday; reservations essential). Chef–owner Marc-Pierre Walker concentrates on classic regional cuisine, such as roasted duckling in a pepper shallot sauce; both three- and five-course prix-fixe menus are available ($$$) Pros: great view; top eatery. Cons: hotel is noisy; no Internet service. | Rooms from: €75 | 05–53–29–57–05 | www.aubergelaplumedoie.com | 4 rooms | Closed late Nov.–early Mar. | No meals.

DOMME

5 km (3 miles) east of La Roque-Gageac.

Stunning views aside, the cliff-top village of Domme offers a hefty dose of history. Some of its fortified walls and doors, dating back to 1280, are still standing; and the Porte des Tours still harbors graffiti from the Knights Templar, who were imprisoned here from 1306 to 1318 awaiting trial. Most visitors, however, come to see something much older—Domme’s renowned grotto.

Getting Here

Like La Roque-Gageac, Domme isn’t covered by public transit; hence a car is required.

Visitor Information

Domme Tourist Office. | Pl. de la Halle | 05–53–31–71–00 | www.ot-domme.com.

EXPLORING

Grotte de Domme.

Beneath the fortified city lies the largest natural cave in the Périgord Noir. You won’t see wall drawings, but prehistoric bison and rhinoceros bones have been discovered here, and you can visit the 500-yard-long illuminated galleries, which are lined with impressive stalactites. The view of the countryside upon exiting the dark cave is stellar. | Pl. de la Halle, entrance opposite City Hall | 05–53–31–71–00 | €8.20 | Oct.–Mar. 11–noon and 2:30–4:30; Apr. and May 10–noon and 2:30–5:30; June–Sept., 10–noon and 2–6; July and Aug., 10–6.

BEYNAC-ET-CAZENAC

11 km (7 miles) west of La Roque-Gageac via D703.

One of the most picturesque sights in the Dordogne is the medieval castle that sits atop the wonderfully restored town of Beynac.

Getting Here

You’ll want a car to reach Beynac and its châteaux-dotted environs.

Visitor Information

Beynac-et-Cazenac Tourist Office. | La Balme | 05–53–29–43–08 | www.sarlat-tourisme.com/beynac-et-cazenac.

EXPLORING

Castelnaud.

With a fabulous mountaintop setting, the now-ruined castle of Castelnaud, containing a large collection of medieval arms, is just upstream from Beynac across the Dordogne. Make sure to give yourself at least an hour to visit. In summer the castle comes to life with demonstrations, reenactments, and opportunities to try out some of the medieval weapons yourself. | 05–53–31–30–00 | www.castelnaud.com | €8.60 | Apr.–June and Sept., daily 10–7; July and Aug., daily 9–8; mid-Nov.–Jan., daily 2–5 (10–5 during Christmas holidays); Oct., Feb., and Mar., daily 10–6.

Château de Beynac.

Perched above a sheer cliff face beside an abrupt bend in the Dordogne River, the muscular 13th-century Château de Beynac has unforgettable views from its battlements. Thanks to its camera-ready qualities, it frequently doubles as a film set. During the Hundred Years’ War, this castle often faced off with forces massed directly across the way at the fort of Castelnaud. | 05–53–29–50–40 | €8 | Mar.–May, daily 10–6; June–Sept., daily 10–6:30; Oct. and Nov., daily 10–sunset; Dec.–Feb., daily 11–sunset.

Château des Milandes.

Five kilometers (3 miles) from Castelnaud, the turreted Château des Milandes was built around 1489 in Renaissance style, and has lovely terraces and gardens. It was once owned by the American-born cabaret star of Roaring ’20s Paris, Josephine Baker, and it was here that she housed her “rainbow family”—a large group of adopted children from many countries. An onsite museum is devoted to her memory. Falconry displays (April to October) are another attraction. From here D53 (via Belvès) leads southwest to Monpazier. | 05–53–59–31–21 | www.milandes.com | €9 | Apr. and May, daily 10–6:30; June–mid-July and Sept., daily 10–7; mid-July–Aug., daily 9:30–7:30; Oct. and Nov., daily 10–6:15; closed Dec.–Mar.

Fodor’s Choice | Jardin de Marqueyssac.

For Périgord Noir at its most enchanting, head to the heavenly heights of this hilltop garden in Vézac, just south of Beynac. Founded in 1682, its design—including a parterre of topiaries—was greatly influenced by André le Nôtre, the “green geometer” of Versailles. Shaded paths bordered by 150,000 hand-pruned boxwoods are graced with breathtaking viewpoints, rock gardens, waterfalls, and verdant glades. From the belvedere 400 feet above the river, there’s an exceptional view of the Dordogne Valley. For a unique and romantic perspective, the garden stays open until midnight under candlelight each Thursday in July and August. TIP You can drink in panoramic views from the terrace of the tea salon, from March to mid-November. | Belvédère de la Dordogne, 3 km (1½ mile) south of Beynac-et-Cazenac | Vézac | 05–53–31–36–36 | www.marqueyssac.com | €7.80 | July and Aug., daily 9–8 (also 7–midnight Thurs. by separate ticket); Feb., Mar., and Oct.–mid-Nov., daily 10–6; mid-Nov.–Jan., daily 2–5; Apr.–June and Sept., daily 10–7.

WHERE TO STAY

Pontet.

HOTEL | This vintage stone hotel offers sweet and simple guest rooms right in the heart of the adorably Dordognesque town, plus a highly regarded waterside restaurant just a short hike away. At the latter—Restaurant Maleville ($)—you’ll want to forego a table in the modern, wood-beam dining room for a blissful perch on the riverbank itself. Here umbrellas and willow trees shade diners happily tucking into such fare as goose neck stuffed with truffles and Beynacoises potatoes. Pros: charming old hotel surrounded by winding, historic streets. Cons: parking not provided. | Rooms from: €60 | Beynac-et-Cazenac | 05–53–29–50–06 | www.hostelleriemaleville.com | 10 rooms | Closed Jan. | No meals.

SARLAT-LA-CANÉDA

10 km (6 miles) northeast of Beynac via D57, 74 km (46 miles) east of Bergerac.

Tucked among hills adorned with corn and wheat, Sarlat is a well-preserved medieval town that has managed to retain some of its true character, despite the hordes of visitors. The end of the Hundred Years’ War in 1453 led to the construction of beautiful urban buildings in the Dordogne, and Sarlat was especially favored: when the English handed the region back to the French king, he rewarded loyal townspeople here with royal privileges. Before long, a new merchant class sprang up, building sublime stone mansions in the latest French Renaissance style. To do justice to Sarlat, meander through its Cité Médiévale in the late afternoon or early evening, aided by the tourist office’s walking map. The tourist office also organizes English-language walking tours every Wednesday at 11 from mid-May to mid-October (€5.50), which give you an in-depth look at the town’s architecture. If you’re planning a trip to the many prehistoric caves and perched villages nearby, the capital of the Périgord Noir makes an ideal base for exploring, too.

Getting Here

Regular flights from Paris—operated by Hop! (www.hop.fr), the low-cost regional carrier—land at Brive–Vallée de la Dordogne, 51 km (32 miles) northeast of Sarlat. Trains make the trip from Paris in six hours, with a change in Souillac. Multiple trains per day also arrive from Les Eyzies (1 hr) and Périgueux (1 hr, 40 mins), with connections in Le Buisson, or direct from Bordeaux (2 hrs, 45 mins). Note that the station is 1.3 km (.08 miles) northeast of Sarlat’s center. Buses connect the town to Périgueux and other area communities.

Visitor Information

Sarlat-la-Canéda Tourist Office. | 3 rue Tourny | 05–53–31–45–45 | www.sarlat-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale St-Sacerdos.

The elaborate turreted tower of the Cathédrale St-Sacerdos, begun in the 12th century, is the oldest part of the building and, along with the choir, all that remains of the original Romanesque structure. | Pl. du Peyrou.

Jardin des Enfers.

The sloping garden behind the cathedral, the Jardin des Enfers, contains a strange, conical tower known as the Lanterne des Morts (Lantern of the Dead), which was occasionally used as a funeral chapel.

Place du Peyrou.

Sarlat’s Cité Médiévale has many beautiful photo-ops. Of particular note is Rue de la Liberté, which leads to Place du Peyrou, anchored on one corner by the steep-gabled Renaissance house where writer-orator Étienne de la Boétie (1530–63) was born.

Rue des Consuls.

The church of Ste-Marie points the way to Sarlat’s most interesting street, Rue des Consuls. Among its medieval buildings are the Hôtel Plamon, with broad windows that resemble those of a Gothic church, and, opposite, the 15th-century Hôtel de Vassal.

Rue Montaigne.

Running the length of the Enfer gardens is the Rue Montaigne, where the great 16th-century philosopher Michel de Montaigne once lived. Some of the half-timber houses that line it cast a fairy-tale spell. Rue d’Albusse (adjoining the garden behind the cathedral) and Rue de la Salamandre are narrow, twisty streets that head to Place de la Liberté and the 18th-century Hôtel de Ville.

Ste-Marie.

Opposite the town hall and overlooking Place du Marché aux Oies, the deconsecrated Gothic church of Ste-Marie was redesigned by star architect Jean Nouvel to become the town’s covered food hall. Open daily until 8 pm from April to November (every day but Thursday other months), it overflows with everything you’ll need for a gourmet picnic or mouthwatering memento. Try to come on Saturday when a farmers’ market winds all the way here from the entrance to the evocative Cité Médiévale. All the (liverless) ducks and geese on sale are proof of the local addiction to foie gras; and you’ll have the opportunity to stock up on homemade confiture, everything walnut—pastry, oil, liqueur—plus truffles galore.

WHERE TO STAY

Hostellerie La Couleuvrine.

HOTEL | Sarlat is not overly blessed with beautiful historic hotels, so this one stands out—literally—thanks to its massive crenellated tower (an imposing structure that held off besieging forces during the Wars of Religion) and an interior that includes a magically medieval restaurant. Originally part of the town’s ancient ramparts, the hotel is a short stroll from Sarlat’s Cité Médiévale. Inside, the atmosphere is richest in the restaurant ($$): a vast half-timber, 13th-century stone hall where the town council once presided. Even more delicious is the food, with dishes such as brick-pressed duck with coriander artichokes and fresh-fruit kebabs with Sauternes zabaglione. Guest rooms are simply but elegantly furnished; the showpiece is the tower room complete with a crenellated Cinerama view out the windows. Pros: like a Relais & Chateaux property at one-quarter the price. Cons: a few blocks east of the Cité Médiévale. | Rooms from: €75 | 1 pl. de la Bouquerie | 05–53–59–27–80 | www.la-couleuvrine.com | 25 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | La Villa des Consuls.

HOTEL | On a meandering cobbled street in the heart of Sarlat’s Cité Médiévale, La Villa des Consuls lets you bed down in either guest rooms or self-service apartments; some are on two floors, and all boast soaring beamed ceilings, modern bathrooms, plus charming views over the old city’s rooftops. Most apartments also have furnished private terraces, fireplaces, and well-appointed kitchens—a distinct advantage when you’re just steps from Sarlat’s famers market and artisanal bakeries. Added perks like the free laundry area and affordable parking (€10 for your stay) make the package hard to resist. Pros: exemplary service; extremely reasonable rates; clean, quiet, air-conditioned rooms. Cons: staircases in duplex rooms aren’t for everyone. | Rooms from: €95 | 3 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau | Sarlat | 05–53–31–90–05 | www.villaconsuls.fr | 4 rooms, 9 apartments | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Plaza Madeleine.

HOTEL | Constructed in the 19th-century, this elegant stone building, just to the north of the Old Town, has been extensively renovated by owners Monsieur and Madame Florent. In the process, welcome extras—including a pool, hammam, and spa—have been added, and the accommodations have been upgraded. Decorated in pastel colors, rooms are small but cozy with floral quilts and modern bathrooms; three have balconies. Pros: spacious lounge to relax in; nice outdoor terrace. Cons: very hard to find parking nearby. | Rooms from: €125 | 1 pl. de la Petite-Rigaudie | 05–53–59–10–41 | www.hoteldelamadeleine-sarlat.com | 39 rooms | No meals.

LES EYZIES-DE-TAYAC

21 km (13 miles) northwest of Sarlat via D47.

Sitting comfortably under a limestone cliff, Les Eyzies is the doorway to the prehistoric capital of France. Early Homo sapiens (the species to which we humans belong) lived about 40,000 years ago, and skeletal remains of Cro-Magnon man—along with other artifacts of Aurignacian culture—were first found here in 1868. Today a number of excavated caves and grottoes are open for public viewing. The tourist office can give you the lowdown on all of them; it also sells tickets for most sites, and you should reserve here because a surprising number of tours sell out in advance.

Getting Here

Five trains arrive from Sarlat daily (€9.80); the trip can take anywhere from 50 minutes to two hours and 30 minutes.

Visitor Information

Eyzies-de-Tayac Tourist Office. | 19 rue de la Préhistoire | 05–53–06–97–05 | www.tourisme-vezere.com.

EXPLORING

Fodor’s Choice | Grotte de Combarelles.

Want an up-close look at Cro-Magnon cave drawings? Those at les Combarelles are considered among the best in the world. Although traces of pigments have been found, the colors have long since vanished leaving the sinuous graven outlines of woolly mammoths, cave bears, lions, and astonishingly lifelike reindeer. There are well over 600 drawings all told, and seeing them is an almost mystical experience, especially since only 40 people are admitted per day. Hour-long tours are available in English on Mondays at 10, 11:30, and 2:30; guides on other tours may speak English (but it’s basically the luck of the draw). TIP This is not a spot for the claustrophobic—the winding 1,000-foot long cavern is six-and-a-half-feet tall and, at most, 3-feet wide. | 1 km (.06 mile) from Les Eyzies-de-Tayac | 05–53–06–86–00 | eyzies.monuments-nationaux.fr | €7.50 | Mar. and Oct., Thurs.–Tues. 9:30–noon and 2–5:30; Apr.–Sept., Thurs.–Tues. 9–noon and 2–6; Nov.–Feb., Thurs.–Tues. 10–noon and 2–5.

Grotte du Grand-Roc.

Amid the dimness of the Grotte du Grand-Roc you can view weirdly shaped crystalline stalactites and stalagmites. At the nearby Abri Préhistorique de Laugerie, you can visit caves that were once home to prehistoric man. | Rte. du Périgueux | 05–53–05–65–60 | €7.40 | Early July–Aug., daily 10–7; Sept.–early Nov., daily 10–1 and 2–6; early Nov.–Dec. and early Feb.–early Apr., Sun–Thurs. 10–12:30 and 2–5; early Apr.–early July, daily 10–12:30 and 2–6. Closed Jan.–mid-Feb.

Fodor’s Choice | Grotte-Font-de-Gaume.

Font-de-Gaume is the last French cave with polychrome paintings that remains open to the public. Though discovered in the late 1800s, it wasn’t until the early 20th century that the importance of the artwork (dating back to around 17,000 BC) was recognized by archeologists. Astonishingly graceful animal figures, many at eye level, include woolly mammoths, horses, reindeer, rhinos, and more. The cave’s masterpiece is a grouping of five large superimposed bison in vivid color that was uncovered in 1966 during a routine cleaning. Like similar representations in Lascaux, the sophisticated shading techniques used for their bellies and thighs create a stunning impression of dimensionality and movement. Guided tours run every 40 minutes, but only 80 visitors are admitted each day—down from 160 in 2012. TIP The cave is destined to close, so see it while you can! | 1 km (.06 mile) from Les Eyzies-de-Tayac | 05–53–06–86–00 | leseyzies-tourist.info | €7.50 | Mar. and Oct., Thurs.–Tues. 9:30–noon and 2–5:30; Apr.–Sept., Thurs.–Tues. 9–noon and 2–6; Nov.–Feb., Thurs.–Tues. 10–noon and 2–5.

Fodor’s Choice | La Madeleine.

As you head north from Les Eyzies-de-Tayac toward Lascaux, stop off near the village of Tursac to discover the mysterious troglodyte “lost village” of La Madeleine, found hidden in the Valley of Vézère at the foot of a ruined castle. Human settlement here dates to 15,000 BC, but what is most eye-catching today is its picturesque cliff-face chapel; seemingly half Cro-Magnon, half Gothic, it was constructed during the Middle Ages. The site, abandoned in the 1920s, can be visited on guided tours (call ahead, English available). | 7 km (4 miles) north of Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, Tursac | 05–53–46–36–88 | €6 | Easter–June, Sept., and Oct., daily 10–6, July and Aug., daily 9:30–8; Sept. and Oct., daily 10–6; Oct.–Feb., daily 11–5.

Musée National de Préhistoire (National Museum of Prehistory).

To truly enhance your understanding of the paintings at Lascaux and other caves in the Dordogne, visit the Musée National de Préhistoire. Its renowned collection of prehistoric artifacts—including primitive sculpture, furniture, and tools—attracts large crowds. You can also get ideas at the museum about which excavation sites to visit in the region. | 1 rue du Musée | 05–53–06–45–45 | www.musee-prehistoire-eyzies.fr | €6 | June and Sept., Wed.–Mon. 9:30–6; July and Aug., daily 9:30–6:30; Oct.–May, Wed.–Mon. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5:30.

Pole International de la Prehistoire (Prehistory Welcome Center).

This well-equipped welcome center, opened in 2011, provides a solid introduction to the region’s important prehistoric sites. Its exhibits, slideshows, and timelines (all free of charge) help you wrap your brain around the immensity of the archaeological riches in the Dordogne. | 30 rue du Moulin | 05–53–06–06–97 | www.pole-prehistoire.com | Free | May–Sept., daily 9:30–6:30; Oct.–Dec. and Feb.–May, Sun.–Fri. 9:30–5:30.

WHERE TO STAY

Le Vieux Logis.

HOTEL | Built around the most gorgeous dining room in the Dordogne, this vine-clad manor house in Trémolat is one of the region’s top hotels. The warm guest rooms vary in size, but most face the well-tended garden and a rushing brook; the best of the bunch have terra-cotta tile floors, stone walls, and suite-like bathrooms. The lounge is très chic, with exposed beams, Louis Treize–style furniture, and mounted faïence plates over the fireplace, while the gourmet restaurant ($$$) is a stunningly charming vision in half-timber and pink-and-red paisley fabrics. The six-course dinner menu there might include Chef Vincent Arnould’s forte—veal in a mustard sauce. Less expensive fare is available from a second restaurant, the wildly popular Le Bistrot d’en Face ($$), located in a house at the gates to the property. Pros: breathtaking grounds; Le Bistrot d’en Face offers a value version of the restaurant’s delectable food. Cons: swimming pool is small. | Rooms from: €200 | 24 km (15 miles) west of Les Eyzies, Le Bourg | Trémolat | 05–53–22–80–06 | www.vieux-logis.com | 17 rooms, 9 suites | No meals.

LASCAUX

27 km (17 miles) northeast of Les Eyzies via D706.

Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979, Lascaux is one of the world’s great galleries of Paleolithic art, a mysterious remnant that scientists still debate the meaning of. Although the actual cave has been closed to the public for more than 50 years, visiting Lascaux II—a near perfect replica—is an awe-inspiring experience that shouldn’t be missed. Nearby, the Château de Losse puts a different spin on this area’s rich history.

Getting Here

Lascaux II is best reached by car. If you’re driving from Sarlat, head toward Montignac, 26 km (16 miles) north on route D704; the cave is 1 km (½ mile) south of Montignac. If you’re relying on public transport, Sarlat has early buses to Montignac (7 and 9 am), leaving from place de la Petite Rigandie.

Visitor Information

Lascaux Tourist Office. | Pl. Bertran-de-Born | 05–53–51–82–60 | www.tourisme-vezere.com.

EXPLORING

FAMILY | Château de Losse.

There are more grandiose castles in France, but few can offer a more intimate a look at how 16th-century nobles lived than the Château de Losse. Built in 1576 on the site of the family’s original 11th-century stronghold, the graceful Renaissance-style castle retains the furnishings, artwork, and other authentic trappings of daily life during the Wars of Religion. The beautiful wooded grounds and formal gardens overlooking the Vézère River make for a lovely stroll, and a charming café with a grassy terrace is the perfect place for a gourmet lunch. TIP Although tours of the interior are offered in French only, a detailed text in English is provided. | 8 km (5 miles) southwest of Montignac-Lascaux | Thonac | 05–53–50–80–08 | www.chateaudelosse.com | €9 | May–Sept., daily noon–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Grotte de Lascaux (Lascaux Caves).

Just south of Montignac, the famous Grotte de Lascaux contain hundreds of prehistoric wall paintings between 15,000 and 20,000 years old. The horses, cow, black bulls, and unicorn on their walls were discovered by chance by four schoolkids looking for their dog in 1940. Over time, the original Lascaux cave paintings began to deteriorate due to the carbon dioxide exhaled by thousands of visitors. To make the colorful mosaic of animals accessible to the general public, the French authorities built Lascaux II, a formidable feat in itself. They spent 12 years perfecting the facsimile, duplicating every aspect of two of the main caves to such a degree that the result is equally awesome. Painted in black, purple, red, and yellow, the powerful images of stags, bison, and oxen are brought to life by the curve of the stone walls; many of them appear pregnant, and historians think these caves were shrines to fertility rather than living quarters—no tools or implements were ever found. Unlike caves marked with authentic prehistoric art, Lascaux II is completely geared toward visitors, and you can watch a fancy presentation about cave art or take a 40-minute tour in the language of your choice. This is one of the most visited sites in the Dordogne and, in summer, tickets can be at a premium. To be sure of admittance, arrive early, as tickets can sell out by midday. During the winter season, you are permitted to purchase tickets at the site, but from April to October tickets are available only at a booth beside the tourist office in Montignac (Pl. Bertran-de-Born). Even better, make reservations via email as soon as you know you’re heading to the Dordogne. | Rte. de la Grotte de Lascaux | 05–53–05–65–60 | www.tourisme-vezere.com | €9.70 | Mid-Feb.–early Apr. and mid-Nov.–Dec., Tues.–Sun. 10–12:30 and 2–5:30; mid-Apr.–early July, and Sept.–mid-Nov., daily 9:30–12:30 and 2–6; early July–Aug., daily 9–7.

WHERE TO STAY

Manoir d’Hautegente.

RENTAL | Originally a forge, this old, ivy-covered edifice occupies a pastoral nook by the Coly River—a lovely vista to enjoy from your guest room or the impressive restaurant ($$) and bistro ($). The modernized lodgings have beige-fabric wall coverings and colorful curtains that match the bedspreads; four duplexes can be found in the old miller’s home nearby. The restaurant (no lunch weekdays) specializes in foie gras; if you’re not convinced, check out the array of it at the hotel shop. Pros: cozy family feel; close to Sarlat. Cons: bathrooms need updating; rooms suffer somewhat from an attack of French Moderne style. | Rooms from: €95 | 12 km (7 miles) east of Lascaux, Haute Gente | Coly | 05–53–51–68–03 | www.manoir-hautegente.com | 11 rooms, 6 suites | Closed mid-Oct.–Apr. | No meals.

HAUTEFORT

25 km (15½ miles) north of Lascaux via D704.

The reason to come to Hautefort is its castle, which presents a forbiddingly arrogant face to the world.

Getting Here

Weekdays, the Line 9 bus from Périgueux makes two round-trips per day (1 hr, €2); otherwise, you’ll have to come by car.

Visitor Information

Hautefort Tourist Office. | Pl. Marquis Jacques François de Hautefort | 05–53–50–40–27 | www.ot-hautefort.com.

EXPLORING

Château de Hautefort.

The silhouette of the Château de Hautefort bristles with high roofs, domes, chimneys, and cupolas. The square-line Renaissance left wing clashes with the muscular, round towers of the right wing, and the only surviving section of the original medieval castle—the gateway and drawbridge—plays referee in the middle. Adorning the inside are 17th-century furniture and tapestries. | 05–53–50–51–23 | www.chateau-hautefort.com | €8.50 | Apr. and May, daily 10–12:30 and 2–6:30; June–Aug., daily 9:30–7; Sept., daily 10–6; Oct., daily 2–6; Mar. and Nov. 1–11, weekends and school holidays 2–6.

PÉRIGUEUX

46 km (27 miles) west of Hautefort via D5, 120 km (75 miles) northeast of Bordeaux.

For anyone tired of bucolic delights, even a short visit to the region’s capital can provide a restorative urban fix. Since Périgueux is the commercial center of the Périgord, the shops here are stylish and sophisticated—some consider them the best reason for visiting this thriving little city. Specialty-food purveyors proliferate (pâtés are the chief export), as do fashionable clothing boutiques—and don’t forget Périgueux’s appetite-inducing open-air markets.

Getting Here

Air Travelers from Paris and London can fly into Bergerac, 48 km (29 miles) south, or Brive–Vallée de la Dordogne, 81 km (50 miles) west. By rail, you can get from Paris’s Gare d’Austerlitz to Périgueux’s train station on rue Denis Papin in five hours, with a connection in Bordeaux (€72). CFTA buses link the gare routiere (also on rue Denis Papin) with Brantôme, Hautefort, and Bergerac for €2 per trip. Peribus provides public transit within Périgueux (€1.25).

Visitor Information

Périgueux Tourist Office. | 26 pl. Francheville | 05–53–53–10–63 | www.tourisme-perigueux.fr.

EXPLORING

Cathédrale St-Front.

Périgueux’s history reaches back more than 2,000 years, yet the community is best known for this odd-looking church, which was associated with the routes to Santiago de Compostela. Finished in 1173 and fancifully restored in the 19th century, Cathédrale St-Front seems like it might be on loan from Istanbul, given its shallow-scale domes and the elongated conical cupolas sprouting from the roof like baby minarets. You may be struck by similarities between it and the Byzantine-style Sacré-Coeur in Paris; that’s no coincidence—architect Paul Abadie (1812–84) had a hand in the design of both. After a mandatory visit to the cathedral, you can make for the cluster of tiny pedestrian-only streets that run through the heart of Périgueux.

Farmers Markets.

A farmers’ market is open daily on the place du Coderc from 8 am to 12.30 pm; on Wednesday and Saturday bigger versions spill over the square to the front of the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall). If you love your gras (fat) as much as the locals do, you’ll also want to witness one of the many marchés de gras that run on Wednesday and Saturday, November through March. The Saturday marchés aux truffes (truffle markets)—held December through February on Place Saint-Louis—are tempting, too. | perigueux.fr/perigueux-au-quotidien/commerces-marches-et-emplois/679-les-marches-de-perigueux.html.

Sorges Truffle Museum.

If it’s truffles you’re after, take a guided tour of the truffle groves in Sorges, a picturesque village northeast of Périgueux. Organized by the Sorges Truffle Museum (L’écomusée de la Truffe), the hour-long outings run every Tuesday and Thursday in July and August, beginning at 3:30. The rest of the year, guided tours are only available, by reservation, for groups of more than 20 people. | Le Bourg, 20 km (12.5 mile) northeast of Périgueux via the N21 | Sorges | 05–53–05–90–11 | www.ecomusee-truffe-sorges.com | €5 | Mid-June–late Sept., weekdays 9:30–6:30, weekends 9:30–12:30 and 2:30–6:30; other months, Tues.–Sun., 10–noon and 2–5.

BRANTÔME

27 km (17 miles) north of Périgueux via D939.

When the reclusive monks of the abbey of Brantôme decided the inhabitants of the village were getting too inquisitive, they dug a canal between themselves and their nosy neighbors, setting the brantômois adrift on an island in the middle of the River Dronne. How happy for them—or at least for us. Brantôme has been unable to outgrow its small-town status and remains one of the prettiest villages in France. Today it touts itself as the “Venice of Périgord.” Enjoy a walk along the river or through the old, narrow streets. The meandering river follows you wherever you stroll. Cafés and small shops abound.

Getting Here

If you don’t have your own car, the Line 1A bus makes a single weekday, round-trip circuit between Périgueux and Brantome (45 mins, €2).

Visitor Information

Brantôme Tourist Office. | Abbaye de Brantôme | 05–53–05–80–63 | www.perigord-dronne-belle.fr.

EXPLORING

Abbaye Bénédictine.

Possibly founded by Charlemagne in the 8th century, Abbaye Bénédictine has none of its original buildings left, but its bell tower has been hanging on since the 11th century (the secret of its success is that it’s attached to the cliff rather than the abbey, and so withstood waves of invaders). Fifth-century hermits carved out much of the abbey and some rooms have sculpted reliefs of the Last Judgment. Also here is a small museum devoted to the 19th-century painter Fernand-Desmoulin. TIP At night the abbey is romantically floodlighted. | Bd. Charlemagne | 05–53–05–80–63 | €4.50 | July and Aug., Wed.–Mon. 10–7; Apr.–June and Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–6; Oct.–Dec., Feb., and Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5.

WHERE TO STAY

FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Les Jardins de Brantôme.

HOTEL | Although it’s within easy walking distance of the town, this intimate spot is pleasantly removed from the hustle and bustle of the main tourist center. Comprised of three 17th-century buildings—including a converted post office and a barn with hand-hewn beams—the lodgings, surrounding garden, and onsite restaurant create a peaceful, self-contained enclave. Quiet, air-conditioned guest rooms have quality furnishings, luxe linens, and sleek, modern bathrooms; most have a private terrace. In the cheerfully elegant dining room ($$), chef and co-owner Christophe serves gourmet versions of French home cooking—like house-made foie gras or his special confit de lapin (leg of rabbit). Pros: attentive hosts; tranquil, tasteful setting. Cons: pool is on the small side. | Rooms from: €135 | 33 rue de Mareuil | 05–53–05–88–16 | lesjardinsdebrantome.com | 7 rooms | Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Jan. and 1st wk of June | No meals.

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Main Table of Contents

Getting Here and Around

Essentials

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Air Travel | Barge and Yacht Travel | Boat Travel | Bus Travel | Car Travel | Train Travel

AIR TRAVEL

Flying time to Paris is 7 hours from New York, 9 hours from Chicago, 11 hours from Los Angeles, and 1½ hours from London. Flying time between Paris and Nice is 1 hour.

As one of the world’s most popular destinations, Paris is served by many international carriers. Air France, the French flag carrier, offers many flights between Paris’s Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG, also known as Roissy) and Newark, New Jersey; New York City’s JFK Airport; and Washington’s Dulles Airport; as well as Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cincinnati, Dallas-Fort Worth, Detroit, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, Philadelphia, and San Francisco. Most other North American cities are served through Air France partnerships with Delta, with flights to Paris from Atlanta, Chicago, Cincinnati, Detroit, Minneapolis, New York City’s JFK, Philadelphia, Pittsburg, Salt Lake City, and Seattle. Another popular carrier is United, with nonstop flights to Paris from Chicago, Cleveland, Denver, Houston, Los Angeles, Newark, San Francisco, and Washington, D.C. American Airlines offers daily nonstop flights to Charles de Gaulle from numerous cities, including Boston, Chicago, Dallas/Fort Worth, Miami, and New York City’s JFK.

Airlines and Airports

Airline and Airport Links.com. | www.airlineandairportlinks.com.

Airline Security Issues

Transportation Security Administration. | www.tsa.gov.

AIRPORTS

There are two major gateway airports to France, both just outside the capital: Orly, 16 km (10 miles) south of Paris, and Charles de Gaulle, 26 km (16 miles) northeast of the city. Orly mostly handles flights to and from destinations within France and the rest of Europe, while Charles de Gaulle is France’s leading international gateway. The smaller Beauvais Airport, 75 km (46 miles) north of Paris, is used by European budget airlines. Many carriers have flights to Lyon, Lourdes, Perpignan, Biarritz, Nantes, Nice, Marseille, Bordeaux, and Toulouse. If you’re going onward by rail, there is a TGV station at Charles de Gaulle’s Terminal 2, where you can connect to trains heading all over the country.

Airport Information

Charles de Gaulle/Roissy. | 3950 €0.34 per min | www.aeroportsdeparis.fr.

Orly. | 39–50 in France [€.04 per min] | www.aeroportsdeparis.fr.

Ground Transportation

From Charles de Gaulle, the fastest and least expensive way to get into Paris is on the RER-B line, the suburban express train, which runs daily from 5 am to 11 pm. The free CDGVal lightrail connects each terminal (except 2G) to the Roissypôle RER station in less than eight minutes, running nonstop 24/7. For Terminal 2G, take the free N2 “navette” shuttle bus outside Terminal 2F. There are other shuttle buses connecting the remaining terminals with the RER station, though CDGVal is much quicker. Trains to central Paris (Gare du Nord, Les Halles, St-Michel, Luxembourg) depart every 15 minutes. The fare (including métro connection) is €9.50, and the journey time is 30-35 minutes.

The Air France Cars, or coach service, is a comfortable option to get to and from the city—you don’t need to have flown the carrier to use it. The coaches cost €17 if you pay onboard or €15.50 if you buy your ticket online. Line 2 goes from the airport to Paris’s Charles de Gaulle Étoile and Porte Maillot from 5:45 am to 11 pm. Buses leave every 30 minute. Line 4 goes to Montparnasse and the Gare de Lyon from 6 am to 10 pm. Buses run every 30 minutes. Passengers arriving in Terminal 1 should use Exit 32 on the Arrivals level; Terminals 2A and 2C, Exit C2; 2B and 2D, Exit B1; Terminals 2E and 2F, Exit E8; Terminal 2G, take the N2 shuttle bus to Terminal 2F, and then use Exit 3.

Another option is to take Roissybus, operated by the Paris Transit Authority (RATP), which runs between Charles de Gaulle and the Opéra every 15 to 20 minutes from 5:45 am to 11 pm; the cost is €10 and you can pay onboard. The trip takes about 45 minutes in regular traffic, about 90 minutes in rush-hour traffic.

Taxis are your least desirable mode of transportation into the city. If you’re traveling at peak times, you may have to stand in a long line with many other disgruntled travelers. Journey times, and, as a consequence, prices are therefore unpredictable. At best, the trip takes 30 minutes, but it can take as long as 90 minutes during rush hour. Count on a €50 to €70 fare, plus €1 for a second bag in the trunk. Beware of unauthorized taxi drivers who solicit customers near baggage carousels and airport exits; they typically charge higher, unmetered rates.

SuperShuttle Paris and Parishuttle are two van companies that serve both Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports. Prices are set, so it costs the same no matter how long the journey takes. To make a reservation, call or email your flight details several days in advance (check the website) to the shuttle company and an air-conditioned van with a bilingual chauffeur will be waiting for you on your arrival. Note that these shuttle vans pick up and drop off other passengers, which can add significant time to the journey.

From Orly, the most economical way to get into Paris is to take the RER-C or Orlyrail line. Catch the shuttle bus from the terminal to the Pont de Rungis train station. Trains to Paris leave every 15 minutes. Passengers arriving in South Terminal use Exit F; for West Terminal use Exit G on the Arrivals level. The total fare is €6.40, and journey time is about 35 minutes. Another option is to take the monorail service, Orlyval, which runs between the Antony RER-B station and Orly Airport daily every four to eight minutes from 6 am to 11 pm. Passengers arriving in the South Terminal should look for Exit K, those arriving in the West Terminal, Exit A on the Departures level. The fare to central Paris is €11.30 and includes the RER transfer.

You can also take the Air France Cars, or coach service, from Orly to Les Invalides, Montparnasse, and Etoile; it runs run every 20 minutes from 6 am to 11 pm. (You need not have flown on Air France to use this service.) The fare is €12 if you pay onboard, €11 if you buy your ticket online. The trip takes 45–60 minutes, depending on traffic. Passengers arriving in Orly South need to look for Exit L; those arriving in Orly West, Exit D. The Paris Transit Authority’s Orlybus is yet another option; buses leave every 15 minutes for the Denfert-Rochereau métro station and cost €7.20. You can economize further by using RATP Bus 183, which shuttles you from the South Terminal to Line 7, métro Porte de Choisy station; it operates daily from 6 am to 9:30 pm and costs €4.

Contacts

Air France Bus. | 08–92–35–08–20 €0.34 per min | www.lescarsairfrance.com.

Parishuttle. | 08–92–69–69–00 €0.34 per min | www.parishuttle.com.

RATP (including Roissybus, Orlybus, Orlyval). | 3246 €0.34 per min | www.ratp.fr.

Super Shuttle. | 08–11–70–78–12 at least €.06 per min | www.supershuttle.fr.

BARGE AND YACHT TRAVEL

Canal and river cruises are popular in France, particularly along the picturesque waterways in Brittany, Burgundy, and the Midi.

Barge Companies

Abercrombie & Kent. | 800/554–7016 in U.S. and Canada | www.abercrombiekent.com.

En-Bateau. | 04–67–13–19–62 | www.en-bateau.com.

European Waterways. | 877/879–8808 in U.S., 877/574–3404 in Canada | www.gobarging.com.

French Country Waterways. | 800/222–1236 in U.S. and Canada | www.fcwl.com.

Maine Anjou Rivières. | 02–41–95–10–83 | www.maine-anjou-rivieres.com.

Viking River Cruises. | 800/706–1483 in U.S. and Canada | www.rivercruises.com.

BOAT TRAVEL

A number of ferry routes link the United Kingdom and France, with fares depending on the length of the crossing and the number of passengers in your party. Ferries on the most popular route—Dover/Calais—cross the Channel in about 90 minutes. Driving distances from the French ports to Paris are as follows: from Calais, 290 km (180 miles); from Cherbourg, 358 km (222 miles); from Caen, 233 km (145 miles); from St-Malo, 404 km (250 miles). Trains also connect these ports with the capital.

Dover–Calais

P&O European Ferries. P&O European Ferries has up to 25 sailings a day; the crossing takes 90 minutes. | 08–25–12–01–56 €0.15 per min, 0871/664–5645 in U.K. | www.poferries.com.

DFDS Seaways. DFDS Seaways operates four routes linking France and the United Kingdom. Ferries run between Dover and Dunkirk or Calais at least a dozen times each day. | 0871/522–9955 in U.K., 44/330–333–0245 outside U.K. | www.dfdsseaways.co.uk.

Portsmouth and Poole–Cherbourg, Caen and St-Malo

Brittany Ferries. Brittany Ferries has three sailings per day between Caen and Portsmouth, two crossings daily between Portsmouth and Cherbourg, two crossings daily between St-Malo and Portsmouth, and one crossing daily between Poole and Cherbourg. | 08–25–82–88–28 €0.34 per min, 0871/244–0744 in U.K. | www.brittany-ferries.co.uk.

BUS TRAVEL

If you’re traveling to or from another country, train service can be just as economical as bus travel, if not more so. The largest international bus operator is Eurolines France, whose main terminal is in the Parisian suburb of Bagnolet (a half-hour métro ride from central Paris, at the end of métro Line 3). Terminals are also located at Charles de Gaulle Airport, Porte de Clichy, and Porte de Charenton. Eurolines links scores of European destinations, with fares that vary greatly depending on where and when you travel; it will take you 8 hours to get from London to Paris and a ticket will cost €60. Other Eurolines routes to or from Paris include: Amsterdam (7 hrs, €80); Barcelona (15 hrs, €150); and Berlin (14 hrs, €140). Economical passes are available—15-day passes coste €215–€355, 30-day versions cost €320–€465. These offer unlimited coach travel to all of Eurolines European destinations.

France’s excellent train service means that long-distance bus routes in France are rare; regional buses are found mainly where train service is spotty. In rural areas the service can be unreliable, and schedules can be incomprehensible for those who don’t speak French. Your best bet is to contact local tourism offices.

Bus Information

Eurolines France. | 08–92–89–90–91 in France [€0.34 per min] | www.eurolines.fr.

CAR TRAVEL

Driving in France can be a leisurely experience. Autoroutes are well-maintained, and there are ample service-oriented rest areas along major highways; smaller roads wind through scenic landscapes and quaint villages. An International Driver’s Permit isn’t required, but it can prove useful in emergencies—particularly when a foreign language is involved (check with your local Department of Motor Vehicles to obtain one at nominal cost). Drivers in France must be over 18 years old; however, there is no top age limit, provided your faculties are intact. If you’re driving from the United Kingdom to the Continent, you have a choice of the Channel Tunnel (aka the Chunnel) or ferry services. Reservations are essential at peak times.

GASOLINE

Gas is expensive, especially on expressways and in rural areas.The main types of gas available are essence super (leaded), sans plomb (unleaded), and gazole (diesel), so make sure you know what type your car takes. When possible, buy gas before you get on the expressway and keep an eye on pump prices as you go. These vary—anywhere from €1.60 to €2 per liter. The cheapest gas can be found at hypermarchés (large supermarkets). In rural areas it’s possible to go for miles without passing a gas station, so don’t let your tank get too low.

PARKING

Parking is a nightmare in Paris and many other metropolitan areas. “Pay and display” metered parking is usually limited to two hours in city centers. Parking is free on Sundays, national holidays, and after 7 pm. In residential areas, parking meters showing a dense yellow circle indicate a free parking zone during the month of August. In smaller towns, parking may be permitted on one side of the street only—alternating every two weeks—so pay attention to signs. In France, illegally parked cars are likely to be impounded, especially those blocking entrances or fire exits. Parking tickets start at €17, topping out at €175 in a handicapped zone, for a first offense, and there’s no shortage of the blue-uniformed parking police. Parking lots, indicated by a blue sign with a white “P,” are usually underground and generally expensive.

ROAD CONDITIONS

France has 8,000 km (5,000 miles) of expressway and 808,000 km (502,000 miles) of main roads. For the fastest route between two points, look for roads marked autoroute. A péage (toll) must be paid on most expressways: the rate varies but can be steep. The N (route nationale) roads—which are sometimes divided highways—and D (route départementale) roads are usually also wide and fast.

There are excellent links between Paris and most French cities, but poor ones between the provinces (the principal exceptions are A26 from Calais to Reims, A62 between Bordeaux and Toulouse, and A9/A8 the length of the Mediterranean coast).

Though routes are numbered, the French generally guide themselves from city to city and town to town by destination name. When reading a map, keep one eye on the next big city toward your destination as well as the next small town; most snap decisions will have to be based on town names, not road numbers. Look for signage pointing you in the right direction; this is especially useful in roundabouts, which can be rather confusing.

Roadside Emergencies

If you have car trouble on an expressway, go to a roadside emergency telephone. If you have a breakdown anywhere else, find the nearest garage or contact the police. There are also 24-hour assistance hotlines valid throughout France (available through rental agencies and supplied to you when you rent the car), but don’t hesitate to call the police in case of any roadside emergency; they’re quick and reliable, and the phone call is free. There are special phones for this purpose on all highways; you’ll see them every few kilometers—just pick up the bright orange phone and dial 17. The French equivalent of the AAA is the Club Automobile de l’Ile de France, but it only takes care of its members and is of little use to international travelers.

Emergency Services

Police. | 17.

Rules of the Road

Drive on the right and yield to drivers coming from streets to the right. However, this rule does not necessarily apply at traffic circles, where you should watch out for just about everyone. Do not expect to find traffic lights in the center of the road, as French lights are usually on the right- and left-hand sides; and do not make right turns at red lights unless you have a blinking arrow. Do not use a cell phone while driving—it’s illegal and could incur a €130 fine. But do make sure to buckle up; seat belts are mandatory for all passengers, and those under age 12 must be in the backseat.

Speed limits are designated by the type of road you’re driving on: 130 kph (80 mph) or 110 kph (70 mph) on expressways (autoroutes), 90 kph (55 mph) on divided roads (routes nationales), 50 kph (30 mph) on departmental roads (routes), and 35 kph (22 mph) in some cities and towns (villes et villages). French drivers break these limits all the time, and police dish out on-the-spot fines with equal abandon.

You might be asked by the Police National to pull over at busy intersections. You will have to show your papers (papiers)—including car insurance—and may be submitted to a l’éthylotest (Breathalyzer test). The rules in France have become stringent because of the high incidence of accidents on the roads; anything above 0.5 grams of alcohol in the blood—which, according to your size, could simply mean two to three glasses of wine—and you are over the limit.

Some important traffic terms and signs to note: sortie (exit); sens unique (one-way); stationnement interdite (no parking); and impasse (dead end). Blue rectangular signs indicate a highway; green rectangular signs indicate a major direction; triangles carry illustrations of a particular traffic hazard; speed limits are indicated in a circle with the maximum limit circled in red.

TRAIN TRAVEL

The French national train agency, the Sociète Nationale de Chemins de Fer, or SNCF, is fast, punctual, comfortable, and comprehensive. Traveling across France, you have various options: local trains, overnight trains with sleeping accommodations, and the high-speed Trains à Grande Vitesse, known as the TGV.

TGVs are the best and the fastest domestic trains, averaging 255 kph (160 mph) on the Lyon–southeast line and 320 kph (200 mph) on the Lille and Bordeaux–southwest lines. They operate between Paris and Lille/Calais, Paris and Brussels, Paris and Amsterdam, Paris and Lyon–Switzerland–Provence, Paris and Angers–Nantes, Paris–Avignon and Tours–Poitiers–Bordeaux. As with other main-line trains, a small supplement may be assessed at peak hours.

It’s usually fast and easy to cross France without traveling overnight, especially on TGVs, which are generally affordable, efficient, and equipped with creature comforts, such as Wi-Fi. Be aware that trains fill up quickly on weekends and holidays, so purchase tickets well in advance for these times. Otherwise, you can take a slow overnight train, which often costs more than a TGV. There’s a choice between high-price wagons-lit (sleeping cars) and slightly more affordable couchettes (bunks, six to a compartment in second class, four to a compartment in first, or private cabins).

In Paris there are six international rail stations: Gare du Nord (northern France, northern Europe, and England via Calais or Boulogne); Gare St-Lazare (Normandy and England via Dieppe); Gare de l’Est (Strasbourg, Luxembourg, Basel, and central Europe); Gare de Lyon (Lyon, Marseille, Provence, Geneva, and Italy); Gare d’Austerlitz (Loire Valley, southwest France, and Spain); and Gare Montparnasse (southwest France).

BOOKING AND BUYING TICKETS

There are two classes of train service in France; first (première) or second (deuxième). First-class seats offer more legroom, plusher upholstery, private reading lamps, computer plugs on the TGV, and wireless connectivity, not to mention a hushed, no-cell-phone environment for those who want to sleep. The price can be nearly double, though there are often deals online.

It is best—and in many cases, essential—to prebook your train tickets. This requires making a reservation (which carries an additional charge of about €10 a person) online, by phone, or at the train station. Rail Europe does an excellent job providing train tickets to those in the United States. It offers a service and the prices reflect that. If you want to save money, however, book directly with the SNCF.

Buying SNCF Tickets Online

For service in English, go to www.voyages-sncf.com and click on the U.K. flag—this takes you to Rail Europe, SNCF’s U.K. partner. Next, enter your destination and travel dates to find fare options quoted in British pounds (these can be converted to dollars using www.xe.com). You may print tickets yourself (the better option) or pick them up at a station. Do not have them sent by mail. If you choose to pick up the tickets, you will receive an email with a six-letter reference code, which you enter at one of the self-service machines in the station. Print out the email with the confirmation code in case there is a problem with the machines and you have to queue up at the guichet (station ticket window). Be sure to leave extra time for this option as lines can be extremely long. You can book 90 days in advance for the TGV.

Rail Passes to Choose From

There are two kinds of rail passes: those you must purchase at home (including the France Rail Pass and Eurail Pass) and those available in France from SNCF.

France is one of 24 countries in which you can use the Eurail Global Pass. Providing unlimited rail travel in all participating countries for the duration of the pass, it’s a good bet if you plan to really rack up the miles. The Global Pass is available for various time periods from 10 days (about $950 first class) up to three months (about $2,250 first class). A special “Saver” version gives a discount for two or more people traveling together first class; while the “Youth” option provides discounts for those under age 26 who are traveling second class. If your plans call for only limited train travel between France and one other bordering country (say Italy or Spain), consider a less expensive Eurail Regional Pass. Whichever pass you choose, remember that you must buy it before leaving for France.

SNCF passes are available at any train station in France. Your rail pass does not guarantee a seat, however. You need to book ahead even if you’re using an SNCF rail pass.

You can get a reduced fare if you’re a senior citizen (over 60). The Carte Senior is a good option if you’re planning on spending a lot of time traveling; it costs €65, is valid for one year, and entitles you to up to a 50% reduction on most trains with a guaranteed minimum reduction of 25%. It also entitles you to a 30% discount on trips outside of France. With the Prix Découverte Senior option, all you have to do is show a valid ID with your age and you’re entitled to up to a 25% reduction in fares in first and second class. With the Carte Enfant Plus (€75), children 4–12 years old accompanying adults can get up to 50% off most trains for an unlimited number of trips. This card, valid for a year, is perfect if you’re planning to spend a lot of time traveling in France with your children. You can also opt for the Prix Découverte Enfant Plus: when you buy your ticket, simply show a valid ID with your child’s age and you can get a significant discount for your child and a 25% reduction for up to four accompanying adults.

If you purchase an individual ticket from SNCF in France and you’re under 26, you automatically get a 25% reduction when you flash a valid ID. If you’re under 26 and plan to ride the train quite a bit, consider buying the Carte 12–25 (€50), which offers unlimited 50% reductions for one year.

If you don’t benefit from any of these reductions and if you plan on traveling at least 200 km (132 miles) round-trip and don’t mind staying over a Saturday night, look into the Prix Découverte Séjour. This ticket gives you a 25% reduction.

With an advance arrangement, SNCF will pick up and deliver your bags at a given time. For instance, if you’re planning on spending a weekend in Nice, SNCF will collect your luggage at your hotel in Paris in the morning before checkout and deliver it to your hotel in Nice, where it will be awaiting your arrival. The cost is €35 for the first bag, and €17 per additional bag, with a maximum of three bags per person. Be advised that luggage service is only available Monday to Saturday mornings in mainland France, Germany, Luxembourg, and Switzerland.

BOARDING THE TRAIN

Get to the station at least an hour before departure to ensure you’ll have time for ticketing and, in some cases, seat selection. If you’re taking a TGV, your seat is reserved by car and seat number. Before boarding, you must punch your ticket (composter le billet) in one of the orange machines at the entrance to the platforms (quais), or else you risk a €10–€25 fine (amende). Tickets printed by the SNCF must be validated; Eurail Passes and tickets printed at home don’t need validation. If you board your train on the run and don’t have time to punch it, look for a conductor (contrôleur) as soon as possible and get him to sign it. Once you’re aboard, note that smoking is forbidden on all public transportation in France. Even lighting up in the bathrooms or connecting compartments will land you an on-the-spot fine of €68.

TO AND FROM THE UNITED KINGDOM

When you factor in travel time to and from the airport, not to mention flight delays, taking the Channel Tunnel is the fastest and easiest way between France and the United Kingdom. The high-speed Eurostar train from Paris’ Gare du Nord to London’s St. Pancras Station takes two hours and 15 minutes. Eurostar prices vary widely—round-trip tickets range from €600 for first class to €88 for second class. Depending on when and where you travel, and how far in advance you book, you should be able to find discounted rates. There are special ones are available for early-bird purchasers, children, seniors, and multiple fare buyers; so if you’re flexible with dates and can accept refund restrictions, you should be able to reduce your travel costs. If you wish to drive most of the route, you can put your car on the train for the Chunnel crossing, 35 minutes between Calais and Folkestone. Britain’s National Rail also has daily departures from London that link up with the Dover–Calais–Boulogne ferry services through to Paris, and there’s an overnight service on the Newhaven–Dieppe ferry.

For up-to-the minute departure and arrival times at any train station in France, plus practical information about the gare, including address and shopping facilities (all in English), see www.gares-en-mouvement.com.

Information

Britain’s National Rail. | 0845/748–4950 in U.K., 44/0207–278–5240 from U.S. | www.nationalrail.co.uk.

Eurail. | www.eurail.com.

Eurostar. | 0843–218–6186 in U.K., 08–92–35–35–39 in France [€0.34 per min] | www.eurostar.com.

Rail Europe. | 800/622–8600 in U.S. (toll-free) | www.raileurope.com.

SNCF. | 36–35 in France [€0.34 per min] | www.sncf.com.

SNCF Luggage Delivery Service. | 3635 €0.34 per min; call from any phone in France, then say “bagages” (bah-gahj) | www.sncf.com.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Previous Chapter | Table of Contents

Accommodations | Communications | Eating Out | Electricity | Emergencies | Holidays | Mail | Money | Passports | Safety | Taxes | Time | Tipping | Visitor Information

ACCOMMODATIONS

Most hotels and other lodgings require you to give your credit-card details before they will confirm your reservation. If you don’t feel comfortable emailing this information, ask if you can fax it. However you book, get confirmation in writing and have a copy of it handy when you check in.

Be sure you understand the hotel’s cancellation policy. Some places allow you to cancel without any kind of penalty—even if you prepaid to secure a discounted rate—provided you do so at least 24 hours in advance. Others require you to cancel a week in advance or penalize you the cost of one night. Most hotels allow children under a certain age to stay free in their parents’ room, but others charge for them as extra adults; so always ask about cutoff ages.

APARTMENT AND HOUSE RENTALS

Individual tourist offices often publish lists of locations meublés (furnished rentals) that have been inspected and rated. Usually they’re booked directly through the property owner, which generally requires some knowledge of French. Rentals that are not classified or rated by the tourist office should be undertaken with trepidation, as they can fall well below your minimum standard of comfort.

Vacation rentals in France typically book from Saturday to Saturday. Always check on policies regarding pets and children and specify if you want an enclosed garden for toddlers, a washing machine, a fireplace, a pool, and so on. If you plan to have overnight guests during your stay, let the owner know; there may be additional charges (insurance restrictions prohibit loading in guests beyond the specified capacity). Occasionally, further fees apply: these might include an end-of-stay cleaning, or even bed linen and towel rentals because French vacationers tend to bring their own. Be sure to plan early: apartment and house rentals are quite popular, especially during the summer.

Contacts

Fédération Nationale des Gîtes de France. | 01/49–70–75–75 | www.gites-de-france.com.

French Government Tourist Office. | francetourism.com.

Hosted Villas. | 416/920–1873 in U.S., 800/374–6637 in U.S. and Canada | www.hostedvillas.com.

RentaVilla. | 206/417–3444 in U.S., 877/250–4366 in U.S. and Canada | www.rentavilla.com.

BED-AND-BREAKFASTS

Small inns and B&Bs are among the most charming lodgings in France. Take care when booking, as many require you to cancel far in advance.

Reservation Services

Chambres Hôtes France. | www.chambres-hotes-france.org.

Hôtes Qualité Paris. The organization, endorsed by the French government, has a searchable bed-and-breakfast database. | www.hotesqualiteparis.fr.

HOME EXCHANGES

With a direct home exchange you stay in someone else’s house while they stay in yours. Some outfits also deal with vacation homes, so you’re not actually staying in someone’s full-time residence, just their vacant weekend place.

Exchange Clubs

Home Exchange.com.The charge is $119.40 for a one-year membership, or $47.85 for three months. | 800/877–8723 in U.S. and Canada | www.homeexchange.com.

HomeLink International. The cost is $89 for a one-year membership. | 800/638–3841 in U.S. and Canada | www.homelink.org.

Intervac U.S. The charge is $99 for an annual membership. | 800/756–4663 in U.S. | www.intervacus.com.

HOTELS

According to industry statistics, there are nearly 18,000 hotels in France. These range from luxury properties to budget lodgings. The quality of accommodations, particularly in older properties and even in luxury hotels, can vary greatly from room to room; if you don’t like the room you’re given, ask to see another.

Meal plans, which are usually an option offered in addition to the accommodations, are generally only available with a minimum two- or three-night stay and are, of course, more expensive than the basic room rate. Inquire about meal plans when making reservations; details and prices are often stated on hotel websites. Sometimes breakfast is included in the stated price automatically.

It’s always a good idea to make hotel reservations in Paris and other major tourist destinations as far in advance as possible, especially in late spring, summer, or early fall. Most hotels allow you to book online. If you wish to communicate further, email is the easiest way to proceed—the hotel staff is probably more likely to read English than to understand it spoken over the phone long-distance. Whether by email, phone, or fax you should notify your hotel of a possible late check-in (to prevent your room from being given away) and to make any special requests (such as the location or the size of the room you want). Ask that the hotel provide written confirmation of your reservation and requests.

If you arrive without a reservation, the tourist offices in major train stations and most towns can probably help you find a room.

Many hotels in France are small, family-run establishments. Some are affiliated with hotel groups, such as Logis de France ( | www.logis-de-france.fr), which can be relied on for comfort, character, and regional cuisine. Three prestigious international groups with numerous converted châteaux, manor houses, and boutique properties are Châteaux & Hotels Collection (www.chateauxhotels.com), Relais & Châteaux ( | www.relaischateaux.com), and Small Luxury Hotels of the World ( | www.slh.com): check the websites for property listings. France also has numerous hotel chains. Examples in the upper price bracket are Novotel and Sofitel as well as InterContinental, Marriott, Hilton, Hyatt, Westin, and Sheraton. The Best Western, Holiday Inn, Campanile, Climat de France, and Timhotel chains are more moderate. If you simply need a place to crash for one night (and aren’t claustrophobic), the ubiquitous Ibis, Hotel Kyriad, and Formule FI brand fits the bill. Typically, chains offer a consistently acceptable standard of comfort (modern bathrooms, TVs, etc.) but tend to lack atmosphere. One notable exception is Best Western: its properties are independently owned and most try to maintain the local character.

COMMUNICATIONS

INTERNET

Most hotels have in-room broadband connections or haut-débit wireless access, although some only offer Wi-Fi in the lobby or ground-floor rooms; if being connected from your room is important, be sure to confirm in advance. Also, if you need to spend a lot of time online, make sure to ask when you book if there’s a charge for the service. Hourly rates add up quickly. Remember to bring an adapter for European-style plugs, too.

Wi-Fi hot spots can be found at many cafés and public libraries in Paris and other metropolitan areas. In smaller towns ask at the local tourism office where you can get connected. Note: if you capture a wireless network called “Free,” don’t be misled—it’s the name of the carrier used in France and is not free of charge.

PHONES

The country code for France is 33. The first two digits of French numbers are a prefix determined by zone: Paris and Ile-de-France, 01; the northwest, 02; the northeast, 03; the southeast, 04; and the southwest, 05. Numbers that begin with 06 are for mobile phones (and are notoriously expensive). Pay close attention to numbers beginning with 08; 08 followed by 00 is a toll-free number, but 08–36 numbers can be costly (usually €0.34 per minute but sometimes €1 and up).

Note that when dialing France from abroad, you drop the initial 0 from the number. For instance, to call a telephone number in Paris from the United States, dial 011–33 plus the phone number minus the initial 0 (phone numbers in this ebook are listed with the full 10 digits, which you use to make local calls).

Calling Within France

The French are very fond of their mobile phones (portables), meaning that telephone booths are scarcer than ever. Look for public phones in airports, post offices, train stations, on the street, and subway stations. You can use your own credit card, but keep in mind that you will be charged a €20 minimum, and you’ll have 30 days after the first call to use up the credit. Alternately, you can pick up a discounted calling card (carte téléphonique) at newsstands, cafés with a tabac sign, or post offices. There are two types of cards: one can be used on any phone, the other has a microchip (puce) that works only on public phones (les cabines). Insert your card and follow directions on the screen (it should give you the option to read in English). Or dial the toll-free number on the back of the card, enter the identification number from the back of the card, and follow the instructions in English.

Calling Outside France

To make a direct international call out of France, dial 00, then the country code (1 for the United States), the area code, and number.

Telephone rates have decreased in France now that the industry has been deregulated. As in most countries, the priciest calls are between 8 am and 7 pm; you can expect to pay €0.28 per minute for a call to the United States, Canada, or some of the closer European countries such as Great Britain, Belgium, Italy, and Germany. Rates are slashed in half when you make that same call between 7 pm and 8 am, at just €0.13 per minute. Calling home with the help of international directory assistance costs a hefty €3 per call; if this doesn’t dissuade you, dial | 118–700 and a bilingual operator will come on the line and ask which country you are calling.

Major carriers offer good rates on international calls with their calling cards. You can also save money by using an international phone card (télécarte international), which you can find at the same places as a local calling card. The cards cost about €13.50 for 50 units or €22 for 120 units. Under no circumstances should you place an international call directly from your hotel room—the charges can be astronomical.

Access Codes

AT&T Direct. | 08–00–99–00–11, 800/288–2020 in U.S. and Canada | www.att.com.

MCI WorldPhone. | 08–00–99–00–19, 800/444-3333 in U.S. and Canada | consumer.mci.com/international/indexa.jsp.

Sprint International Access. | 08–00–99–00–87, 888/211-4727 in U.S. and Canada | www.sprint.com.

Mobile Phones

If you have a multiband phone (some countries use different frequencies from what’s used in the United States) and your service provider uses the world-standard GSM network (as do T-Mobile, AT&T, and Verizon), you can probably use your phone abroad. But be warned: this is often the most expensive calling option, with hefty toll charges on incoming and outgoing calls, sometimes as high as $4 per. Roaming fees can be steep, too: 99¢ a minute is considered reasonable. Sending an international text message is usually a cheaper option, but be aware that fees abroad vary greatly (from 15¢ to 50¢ and up), and there’s usually a charge for incoming messages. When using a cell phone abroad, it’s advisable to turn off your data services function to avoid exorbitant, unexpected fees.

If you just want to make local calls, consider buying a local SIM card for about €30 (note that your provider may have to unlock your phone for you to use a different SIM card) or a cheap pay-as-you-go phone (sans abonnement) found at any post office or phone shop. You can then have a local number and make local calls at local rates. If your trip is extensive, you could also simply buy a new cell phone in your destination, as the initial cost will be offset over time.

TIP If you travel internationally frequently, save one of your old mobile phones or buy a cheap one online; ask your cell phone company to unlock it for you, and take it with you as a travel phone, buying a new SIM card with pay-as-you-go service in each destination.

Online Calls

A cost effective alternative is to use Skype (www.skype.com) or Google Talk (www.google.com/hangouts), which allow you to make calls online. After downloading free software, you can place no- or low-cost calls anywhere in the world with an Internet connection from your computer.

EATING OUT

All establishments must post their menus outside, so take a look before you enter. Most restaurants have two basic types of menu: à la carte and fixed-price (un menu or prix-fixe). The prix-fixe menu is usually the best value, though choices are more limited. Many of these include three courses; however, it’s increasingly common to see set menus with two—either a starter and main course (entrée et plat) or a main course and dessert (plat et dessert).

FAST FOOD, FRENCH STYLE

Many say that bistros served the world’s first fast food. After the fall of Napoléon, the Russian soldiers who occupied Paris were known to bang on zinc-top café bars, crying “bistro”—”quickly”—in Russian. In the past, bistros were simple places with minimal decor and service. Nowadays many are upscale and trendy, but you can still find cozy, low-key establishments serving straightforward, frequently gutsy cooking.

Brasseries—ideal places for quick, one-dish meals—originated when Alsatians, fleeing German occupiers after the Franco-Prussian War, came to Paris and opened restaurants serving specialties from home. Pork-based dishes, choucroute (sauerkraut), and beer (brasserie also means brewery) remain the mainstays here. The typical brasserie is convivial and keeps late hours. Some are open 24 hours a day, a good thing to know since many restaurants stop serving at 10 or 10:30 pm.

Like bistros and brasseries, cafés come in a variety of styles and sizes. Often informal neighborhood hangouts, cafés may also be veritable showplaces attracting chic, well-heeled crowds. At most cafés the regulars congregate at the bar, where coffee and drinks are cheaper than at tables. At lunch tables are set, and a limited menu is served. Sandwiches, usually with jambon (ham), fromage (cheese), or mixte (ham and cheese), are served throughout the day. Sometimes snacks are also for sale. Cafés are for lingering, for people-watching, and for daydreaming. If none of these options fit the bill, head to the nearest traiteur (deli) for picnic fixings.

Breakfast is usually served from 7:30 am to 10 am, lunch from noon to 2 pm, and dinner from 8 pm to 10 pm. Restaurants in Paris usually serve dinner until 10:30 pm. Many restaurants close on Sunday—head to the Latin Quarter, the Champs Élysées, or Montmartre for the greatest choice of eateries open then.

PAYING

By French law, prices must include tax and tip (service compris or prix nets), but pocket change left on the table to round up the bill in basic places, or an additional 5% in better restaurants, is always appreciated. Beware of bills stamped service not included in English. The prices given in this book are per person for a main course at dinner, including tax (10%) and service; note that if a restaurant offers only prix-fixe (set-price) meals, it is given a price category that reflects the full prix-fixe price.

ELECTRICITY

The electrical current in France is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); electrical outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two round prongs. So you may need to use both an adapter (which enables you to plug your appliance into the different style of socket) and a converter (which allows it to run on the different voltage). Most laptops and mobile phone chargers are dual voltage (i.e., they operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts); hence they require only an adapter. These days the same is true of many small appliances, but you should always check labels and manufacturer instructions to be sure. Don’t use 110-volt outlets marked “for shavers only” for high-wattage appliances such as hair dryers.

Contacts

Adaptelec. Adaptelec has information on electrical and telephone plugs around the world (search for “France” on the site for detailed info). | www.adaptelec.com.

EMERGENCIES

France’s emergency services are conveniently streamlined. Every town and village has a médecin de garde (on-duty doctor) for flus, sprains, tetanus shots, and similar problems. Larger cities have a remarkable house-call service called “SOS Médecins” (SOS Doctors, or “SOS Dentistes” for dental emergencies); dial | 3624. The cost is minimal, compared to the United States—about €70 for a house call. If you need an X-ray or emergency treatment, call an ambulance (dial | 15).

Most hotels will be able to help you find assistance in the event of a medical emergency. Note that outside Paris it may be difficult to locate English-speaking doctors.

You may be able to get a list of ones—along with info on nearby hospitals, private clinics, and medical centers—from a pharmacy. Bear in mind that pharmacists themselves are authorized to administer first aid and recommend over-the-counter drugs, and hence can be very helpful when health problems are minor.

On the street the French phrases that may be needed in an emergency are: Au secours! (Help!), urgence (emergency), samu (ambulance), pompiers (firefighters), préfecture de police (police station), médecin (doctor), and hôpital (hospital).

HOLIDAYS

With 11 national jours feriés (holidays) and at least five weeks of paid vacation, the French have their share of repose. In May there’s a holiday nearly every week, so be prepared for stores, banks, and museums to shut their doors for days at a time. Be sure to call museums, restaurants, and hotels in advance to make sure they’ll be open.

Note that these dates are for the calendar year 2015: January 1 (New Year’s Day); April 5 and 6 (Easter Sunday and Monday); May 1 (Labor Day); May 8 (V.E. Day); May 9 (Ascension Day); June 9 (Pentecost Monday); July 14 (Bastille Day); August 15 (Assumption); November 1 (All Saints Day); November 11 (Armistice Day); December 25 (Christmas Day).

MAIL

Post offices are found in every town and are recognizable by a yellow La Poste sign. They’re usually open weekdays 8 am to 7 pm, Saturday 8–noon.

SHIPPING PACKAGES

Letters and postcards to the United States and Canada cost €0.98 for 20 grams. Stamps can be bought in post offices and in cafés displaying a red tabac sign outside. It takes, on the average, three days for letters to arrive in Europe, and five days to reach the United States.

If you’re uncertain where you’ll be staying, have mail sent to the local post office, addressed as poste restante. The French postal service has a €0.58 per item service charge.

Sending overnight mail from major cities in France is relatively easy. Besides DHL, Federal Express, and UPS, the French post office has overnight mail service, called Chronopost, which is much cheaper for small packages. Keep in mind that certain things cannot be shipped from France to the United States, such as perfume, fresh food, or any meat products.

Express Services

DHL. | 08–20–20–25–25 €.09 per min | www.dhl.com.

Federal Express. | 08–20–12–38–00 €0.12 per min | www.fedex.com.

UPS. | 08–21–23–38–77 €0.12 per min | www.ups.com.

MONEY

The following prices are for Paris; other areas are often cheaper (with the notable exception of the Côte d’Azur). Keep in mind that it’s less expensive to eat or drink standing at a café or bar counter than sitting at a table. Two prices are listed, au comptoir (at the counter) and à salle (at a table). Sometimes orders cost even more if you’re seated at a terrace table. Coffee in a bar: €1.50–€2.50 (standing), €2–€7 (seated); beer in a bar: €2 (standing), €2.50–€7 (seated); Coca-Cola: €2–€5 a bottle; ham sandwich: €3–€6; 2-km (1-mile) taxi ride: €7–€10; movie-theater seat: €10.90 (morning shows are always cheaper); foreign newspaper: €1.50–€5.

Prices throughout this guide are given for adults. Substantially reduced fees are almost always available for children, students, and senior citizens.

ATMS AND BANKS

Your own bank will probably charge a fee for using ATMs abroad; the foreign bank you use may also charge a fee. Nevertheless, you can usually get a better rate of exchange at an ATM than you will at a currency-exchange office or even when changing money in a bank. And extracting funds as you need them is a safer option than carrying around a large amount of cash.

TIP PINs with more than four digits are not recognized at ATMs in many countries. If yours has five or more, remember to change it before you leave.

Readily found throughout France, ATMs are one of the easiest ways to get euros.

Note that the ATM machine will give you two chances to enter your correct PIN number; if you make a mistake on the third try, your card will be held, and you’ll have to go into the bank to retrieve it (this may mean returning during open hours). Some ATMs will accept a credit or debit card that is also a Visa or MasterCard, but not an unaffiliated bank card.

CREDIT CARDS

France is a debit-card society. Debit cards are used for just about everything, from the automatic gas pumps, to the tolls on highways, payment machines in underground parking lots, stamps at the post office, and even the most minor purchases in the larger department stores. A restaurant or shop would either have to be extremely small or remote not to have some credit-card or debit-card capability. However, some of the smaller restaurants and stores do have a credit-card minimum, usually around €15, which normally should be clearly indicated; to be safe, ask before you order. Do not forget to take your credit-card receipt, as fraudulent use of credit-card numbers taken from receipts is on the rise. Note that while MasterCard and Visa are usually welcomed, American Express isn’t always accepted.

It’s a good idea to inform your credit-card company before you leave home, especially if you don’t travel internationally very often. Otherwise, they might put a hold on your card because of unusual activity—not a good thing halfway through your trip. Record all your credit-card numbers—as well as the phone numbers to call if your cards are lost or stolen—in a safe place, so you’re prepared should something go wrong. MasterCard and Visa have general numbers you can call (collect if you’re abroad) if your card is lost, but you’re better off calling the number of your issuing bank, since MasterCard and Visa usually just transfer you to your bank anyway; your bank’s number is usually printed on your card.

If you plan to use your credit card for cash advances, you’ll need to apply for a PIN at least two weeks before your trip. Although it’s usually cheaper (and safer) to use a credit card abroad for large purchases (so you can cancel payments or be reimbursed if there’s a problem), note that some credit-card companies and the banks that issue them add substantial percentages to all foreign transactions, whether they’re in a foreign currency or not. Check on these fees before leaving home, so there won’t be any surprises when you get the bill.

CURRENCY AND EXCHANGE

The advent of the euro makes any whirlwind European tour all the easier. From France you can glide across the borders of Austria, Germany, Italy, Spain, Holland, Ireland, Greece, Belgium, Finland, Luxembourg, and Portugal with no pressing need to run to the local exchange booth to change to yet another currency before you even had the time to become familiar with the last. You’ll be able to do what drives many tourists crazy—to assess the value of a purchase (for example, to realize that eating a three-course meal in a small restaurant in Lisbon is cheaper than that ham sandwich you bought on the Champs Élysées).

At this writing, one euro equals U.S. $1.36 and $1.45 Canadian. These days, the easiest way to get euros is through ATMs; you can find them in airports, train stations, and throughout cities and towns. ATM rates are excellent because they’re based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. Remember, though, that you may be charged an added exchange fee when withdrawing euros from your account. It’s a good idea to bring some euros with you from home and always to have some cash on hand as backup.

Currency Conversion

Oanda.com. | www.oanda.com.

XE.com. | www.xe.com.

PASSPORTS

All Canadian, U.K., and U.S. citizens, even infants, need only a valid passport to enter France for stays of up to 90 days.

You must apply in person if you’re getting a passport for the first time; if your previous passport was lost, stolen, or damaged; or if your previous passport has expired and was issued more than 15 years ago or when you were under 16. All children under 18 must appear in person to apply for or renew a passport. Both parents must accompany any child under 14 (or send a notarized statement with their permission) and provide proof of their relationship to the child.

SAFETY

Beware of petty theft—purse snatching, cell phone grabbing, pickpocketing, and the like—throughout France, particularly in Paris and along the Côte d’Azur. Use commonsense: keep your expensive jewelry at home, avoid pulling out a lot of money in public; and avoid darkly lit areas in the evening. Women should carry a handbag with zippered compartments for money and passports, plus long straps that can be slung across the body, bandolier style. Men should keep their wallets in front pockets. When withdrawing money from cash machines, be especially aware of your surroundings and anyone standing too close. If you feel uneasy, press the cancel button (annuler) and walk to an area where you feel more comfortable. Credit-card fraud is increasing in France, especially in urban areas; be sure to collect your receipts, as these have recently been used by thieves to make purchases over the Internet. Car break-ins, especially in central Paris, inner suburbs, and isolated parking lots are definitely on the rise. Never leave valuables, luggage, phones, computers, or other electronics in your car.

TIP Distribute your cash, credit cards, IDs, and other valuables between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Don’t reach for the money pouch once you’re in public. Be especially vigilant on public transportation and in crowded areas.

TAXES

Taxes must be included in affixed prices in France. Prices in restaurants and hotels must by law include taxes and service charges. TIP If these appear as additional items on your bill, you should complain. There is, however, one exception: don’t be shocked to find the taxe de séjour (tourist tax) on your hotel tab when you check out. Ranging from €0.20 to €1.50 per person per day, it is applied to all types of lodging. Even if you prepaid your accommodation online through a third-party travel website, you’ll still have to cough up the coins.

The standard rate of the V.A.T. (Value-Added Tax, known in France as T.V.A.) is now 20%, with luxury goods taxed at a higher rate (up to 33%) and restaurant food taxed at a lower one (10%). The V.A.T. for services (restaurants, theaters, etc.) is not refundable, but foreigners are often entitled to a V.A.T. refund on goods they buy. To be eligible for one, the item (or items) that you purchased must have been bought in a single day in a participating store (look for the “Tax-Free” sticker on the door) and must equal or exceed €175.01.

TIP As of January 1, 2014, there is a new procedure for obtaining this refund—the PABLO system. Participating retailers will provide you with a computer-generated PABLO Value-Added Tax (V.A.T.) refund form containing a barcode and the PABLO logo. You then scan the code before checking in at the airport for your outbound flight. The PABLO machines at CDG and Orly provide service in English and can credit the refunded amount directly to your bank account.

At the airport, be sure to have your passport, your ticket, and your PABLO form for items purchased. Scan the form’s barcode and you’ll receive a message “OK bordereau confirmé” (“OK, form approved”). An electronic confirmation will be sent directly to the retailer for your reimbursement to be processed. Remember, this must be done before checking-in your luggage.

TIME

The time difference between New York and Paris is six hours: when it’s 1 pm in New York, it’s 7 pm in Paris. France, like the rest of Europe, uses the 24-hour clock, which means that after noon you continue counting forward: 13h00 is 1 pm, 22h30 is 10:30 pm. The European format for abbreviating dates is day/month/year, so 7/5/13 means May 7, not July 5.

Time Zones

Timeanddate.com.”The World Clock” can help you figure out the correct time anywhere. | www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.

TIPPING

The French have a clear idea of when they should be tipped. Bills in bars and restaurants include a service charge incorporated into the price, but it’s customary to round out your bill with some small change unless you’re dissatisfied. The amount varies: anywhere from €0.50, if you’ve merely bought a beer, to €1–€3 (or more) after a meal. Tip taxi drivers and hair stylists about 10%. In some theaters and hotels, coat-check attendants may expect nothing (if there’s a sign saying “pourboire interdit”—tips forbidden); otherwise give them €0.50–€1. Washroom attendants usually get €0.50, though the sum is often posted.

If you stay in a hotel for more than two or three days, it’s customary to leave something for the chambermaid—€1–€2 per day. In expensive hotels you may well use the services of a parking valet, doorman, bellhop, and concierge. All expect a tip: plan on about €1.50 per item for the bellhop and €10–€20 for a particularly helpful concierge. The other tips will depend on how much you’ve used a person’s services—commonsense must guide you here. In hotels that provide room service, give €1–€2 to the waiter (this does not apply to breakfast served in your room).

Museum guides should get €1–€1.50 after a tour. For other kinds of tours, tip the guide or excursion leader 10% of the tour cost; it’s standard practice to tip long-distance bus drivers about €2 after an excursion, too.

VISITOR INFORMATION

All major cities and most small towns have tourism offices that can provide information on accommodation and sightseeing as well as maps.

France Tourism Information

France Guide. France Guide is the official website of the national Tourist Office. | us.franceguide.com.

ONLINE TRAVEL TOOLS

All About France

Centre des Monuments Nationaux. This organization is responsible for 200 national monuments—from the Arc de Triomphe to the Château de Chambord—and its website is chock-full of information. You can search by monument and purchase entry tickets online. | www.monum.fr.

Chateaux and Country. Chateaux and Country offers a brief overview of hundreds of châteaux all over France. | www.chateauxandcountry.com.

French Ministry of Culture. The Ministry’s website provides a portal to cultural institutions and cultural events countrywide. It’s updated daily. | www.culture.fr.

French National Museums. The website for the Réunion des Musées Nationaux, which administers some of France’s largest museums, has links to member institutions. | www.rmn.fr.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Table of Contents

ABOUT OUR WRITERS

When writer-editor Jennifer Ditsler-Ladonne decided it was time to leave her longtime home of Manhattan, there was only one place to go: France. Her insatiable curiosity—which earned her a reputation in New York for knowing just the right place to go for just the right anything—has found the perfect home in the inexhaustible streets of Paris. An avid cook and wine lover, she’s a frequent contributor on wine, culture, and travel and a monthly columnist for the magazine France Today. Whether you’re looking for the best neighborhood bistros or the perfect little black dress, she’s the person to ask, as we did for our Experience, Ile-de-France, Lyon and the Alps, and Dordogne chapters.

Travel writer Nancy Heslin has been the editor of the English-language Riviera Reporter magazine since 2001, when she swapped Canada for the Côte d’Azur. A professor at the École de Journalisme in Nice and a “go-to” authority on the region, she has been interviewed by CBS and APF. She has taken the TGV with Tom Cruise to Marseille, lunched with Prince Albert in Monaco, and sipped champagne with Paris Hilton in St-Tropez as a staffer for some leading celeb glossies. A foie gras junkie—a prerequisite to her becoming a French citizen—Nancy loves to drive the unchartered roads of Provence in quest of the ultimate perched village vista or undiscovered bonne table. For this edition, she updated the Provence and French Riviera chapters.

British travel writer and editor Lyn Parry has lived in France for almost 20 years. In Britain her master’s in hotel and catering management, and a stint in a luxury four-star hotel, gave her a taste for fine French food and wine. After working for the wine trade in London her nose led her to Bordeaux. Since then she has lived near Paris, and latterly in the Rhône Valley. Lyn loves to drive off, either solo or sharing her travel adventures with her teenage son, to explore the fascinating regions throughout France. For this edition for France, she updated the Alsace-Lorraine chapter, the Burgundy chapter, and the Champagne Country chapter.

In 2007, Avery Sumner sold her café in the Florida Everglades and moved to France. Since then she’s walked and cycled across the country perfecting the art of “slow travel,” in part by leading gourmet cycling trips through Provence and Burgundy with Boston-based Duvine Adventures and more recently with her own active travel company, Real Travel France (realtravelfrance.com). Avery also leads France yoga and writing retreats with British author Rosemary Bailey (www.francewritingretreat.com), but what she loves most is introducing travelers to the olive oil producers, winemakers, goat farmers, and locavores in her home region of Roussillon. For this edition, Avery updated our Midi-Pyrénées and the Languedoc-Roussillon; Basque Country, Gascony, and Hautes-Pyrénées; and Bordeaux and the Wine Country chapters.

Paris-based writer and consummate globe-trotter Victoria Tang fell in love with the City of Light as a teenager, returning as an architecture student at the French National School of Industrial Design before settling by the banks of the Seine to raise her two children and pursue creative passions. Armed with a BA in literature and MBA in international business from Cornell University, she worked as a corporate executive before deciding to devote her time to travel writing, fiction, freelance journalism, photography, and global communications. She is the author of two guidebooks, Paris for Kids and France for Kids by Marquee Publishing. For Fodor’s she brings her intimate knowledge of France to our Corsica and Travel Smart chapters.

Jack Vermee is a Canadian screenwriter, film critic, festival programmer, university lecturer, and freelance writer and editor who happily exchanged nature for culture by moving from Vancouver to Paris five years ago. Starting in the pre-video days of the early 1980s when he first visited the city to watch classic films at the old Cinémathèque Française, he has carried on a shameless love affair with la ville-lumière and its innumerable charms. He suspects the love affair will never run its course—with 6,100 city streets to explore and new adventures just around the next corner, how could it? Jack brought his knowledge to our Brittany, Normandy, and the Loire Valley chapters. He has no regrets. You can reach him at jvermee@gmail.com.

Updating our Paris chapter was our team of crack writers from Fodor’s Paris 2014: Jennifer Ditsler-Ladonne, Linda Hervieux, Jack Vermee, and Victoria Tang.

FODOR’S FRANCE 2015

Writers: Jennifer Ditsler-Ladonne, Nancy Heslin, Lyn Parry, Avery Sumner, Victoria Tang, Jack Vermee

Editors: John Rambow, Mark Sullivan, Susan MacCallum-Whitcomb

Production Editor: Carolyn Roth

Ebook Production: Garth Graeper, John Lee, James Nash

Design: Jennifer Romains, Tina Malaney, Ann McBride-Alayon

COPYRIGHT

Copyright © 2015 by Fodor’s Travel, a division of Random House LLC

Fodor’s is a registered trademark of Random House LLC. All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Fodor’s Travel, a division of Random House LLC, New York, a Penguin Random House Company, and in Canada by Random House of Canada Limited, Toronto. No maps, illustrations, or other portions of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

eBook ISBN: 978-0-8041-4294-6

Excerpted from Fodor’s France (978-0-8041-4269-4)

AN IMPORTANT TIP & AN INVITATION

Although all prices, opening times, and other details in this work are based on information supplied to us at publication, changes occur all the time in the travel world, and Fodor’s cannot accept responsibility for facts that become outdated or for inadvertent errors or omissions. So always confirm information when it matters, especially if you’re making a detour to visit a specific place. Your experiences—positive and negative—matter to us. If we have missed or misstated something, please write to us. We follow up on all suggestions. Contact us at fodors.com/contact-us.

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PHOTO CREDITS

France Cover, © Hemis/AWL Images

Album 1, Luciano Morpurgo/shutterstock.com

Album 2, Sean Nel/shutterstock.com

Album 3, Edyta Pawloska/shutterstock.com

Album 4, Asher Welsead/shutterstock.com

Album 5, Archana Bhartia/shutterstock.com

Album 6, Steven Allan/istockphoto

Album 7, Christian Musat/shuttertock.com

Album 8, Demud Borodin/shutterstock.com

Album 9, Posztos (Colorlab.hui)/shutterstock.com

Album 10, L F File/shutterstock.com

France Contents, jovannig/shutterstock.com

France Maps, iStockphoto

Experience France, Ferenc Cegledi/Shutterstock.com

France Today, Steven Allan/iStockphoto

What’s Where, Lane Clark, Fodors.com member

France Plannier, PixAchi/Shutterstock.com

Getting Around, iStockphoto/Thinkstock

Top Attractions, Louvre by simo0082 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37929379@N07/3488281539/ Attribution License

Top Experience, compassandcamera/iStockphoto

Quintessential France, hidden kitchen: amuse bouche: BLT with gazpacho by Meg Zimbeck http://www.flickr.com/photos/mufoo/2189689680/ Attribution-License

If You Like, Adam Kimmel - Paris showroom by TRÈS BIEN SHOP http://www.flickr.com/photos/tresbienshop/4004298483/ Attribution-License

History You Can See, wikipedia.org/public domain

Great Itineraries, Luciano Morpurgo/shutterstock.com

France Lodging Primer, Fabrice Rambert

When To Go, Bensliman/shutterstock.com

Paris, Elena Elisseeva/Shutterstock.com

Welcome To Paris, Ekaterina Pokrovsky/shutterstock.com

Exploring Paris, TEA/shutterstock.com

Where to Eat, Dana Ward/Shutterstock.com

Where to Stay, The Leading Hotels of the World

Nightlife and the Arts in Paris, equiles28, Fodors.com member

Shopping In Paris, Tupungato/shutterstock.com

Ile-de-France, Jose Ignacio Soto/shutterstock.com

Welcome to Ile-de-France, Pack-Shot/shutterstock.com

The Western Ile-de-France, onairda/shutterstock.com

The Eastern Ile-de-France, Vitaly Titov & Maria Sidelnikova/shutterstock.com

The Loire Valley, S. Greg Panosian/iStockphoto

Welcome To the Loire Valley, Galchenkova Ludmila/shutterstock.com

From Tours To Orleans, Château de Colliers

Villandry to Langeais, Chateau Villandry by Casper Moller http://www.flickr.com/photos/caspermoller/2674244859/ Attribution-License

Normandy, Lya_Cattel/istockphoto

Welcome To Normandy, clodlo/istockphoto

Upper Normandy, kompasstudio/istockphoto

Honfleur to Mont-St-Michel, iStockphoto

Brittany, Chris Marlow, Fodors.com member

Welcome To Brittany, schwaja, Fodors.com member

Northeast Brittany and the Channel Coast, Guillaume Dubé/iStockphoto

The Atlantic Coast, clu/iStockphoto

Champagne Country, Gyukli Gyula/shutterstock.com

Welcome To Champagne Country, teresaevans, Fodor.com member

Champagne, Michel de Nijs/iStockphoto

Excursion: The Cathedral Cities, Claudio Giovanni Colombo/Shutterstock.com

Alsace-Lorraine, Brian Ferrigno, Fodors.com member

Welcome To Alsace-Lorraine, klondike, Fodors.com member

Nancy, Orlik Meert/shutterstock.com

Lorraine: Joan of Arc Country, Wikipedia.org/Public domain

Stasbourg, Tree4Two/istockphoto

Alsace, photostockar/shutterstock.com

Burgandy, lynnlin/Shutterstock.com

Welcome To Burgundy, clodio/istockphoto

Northwest Burgundy, clodio/istockphoto

Dijon, Tupungato/shutterstock.com

Wine Country, PHB.cz (Richard Semik)/istockphoto

Lyon and the Alps, wug, Fodors.com member

Welcome To Lyon and the Alps, Jakez/shutterstock.com

Lyon, Thierry Maffeis/shutterstock.com

Beaujolais, PHB.cz (Richard Semik)/shutterstock.com

The Rhone Valley, PHB.cz (Richard Semik)/shutterstock.com

Grenoble and the Alps, Lazar Mihai-Bogdan/Shutterstock.com

Provence, Crisma/iStockphoto

Welcome To Provence, Earl Eliason/iStockphoto

Arles and the Camargue, Wieslaw Jarek/iStockphoto

The Alpilles, Wikipedia.org/Public Domain

Avignon and the Vaucluse, lillisphotography/iStockphoto

Aix-en-Provence and the Mediterranean Coast, Giancarlo Liguori/shutterstock.com

The French Riviera, Christian Musat/Shutterstock.com

Welcome To The French Riviera, cote d'azur (Villefranche-sur-Mer) by http://www.flickr.com/photos/37556068@N06/3718656336/ Attribution-License

The Western French Riviera, Priamo Melo/iStockphoto

The Hill Towns, Renaud d'Avout d'Auerstaedt (http://renaud.davout.org (Own Work) CC BY-SA 3.0 http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en

Nice, France July 2004 (35) Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild by Mark Hills http://www.flickr.com/photos/hillsieboy/178945045/ Attribution-License

The Eastern French Riviera, Giancarlo Liguori/Shutterstock.com

Monaco, PixAchi/shutterstock.com.com

Corsica, Oleksiy Drachenko/Shutterstock

Welcome To Corsica, Bouvier Ben/Shutterstock

Corse Du Sud, Pixachi/Shutterstock

Haute Corse, DUSAN ZIDAR/Shutterstock

The Midi-Pyrenees and Languedoc-Roussillon, Mike Tumchewics, Fodors.com member

Welcome To The Midi-Pyrenees and Languedoc-Roussillon, wikipedia.org/Public Domain

Toulouse: La Ville Rose, By Felipeh at fr.wikipedia [GFDL (www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC-BY-SA-3.0 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/)], from Wikimedia Commons

Albi and the Gers By Benh LIEU SONG (Own work) [CC-BY-SA-3.0 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

Languedoc-Roussillon, Christian Musat/iStockphoto

The Basque Country, Gascony, and Hautes-Pyrenees, By Jens Buurgaard Nielsen [GFDL (www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html)], via Wikimedia Commons

Welcome To The Basque Country, Gascony, and Hautes-Pyrenees, Miunicaneurona | Dreamstime.com

The Basque Coast, Botond Horváth/Shutterstock.com

The Atlantic and Hautes-Pyrenees, Peter Engelsted Jonasen/istockphoto

Bordeaux and the Wine Country, Fabrice RAMBERT

Welcome To Bordeaux and the Wine Country, By Benjamin Zingg, Switzerland (Own work) [CC-BY-SA-2.5 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5)], via Wikimedia Commons

Bordeaux: City of Wine, The BORDEAUX WINE FESTIVAL / Jean-Bernard NADEAU

Route du Medoc and the Wine Country, Château Cos D’Estournel, St-Estephe in the Medoc, Bordeaux France by Megan Mallen http://www.flickr.com/photos/megs_pics/5428897569/Attribution License

The Dordogne, Pecold/shutterstock.com

Welcome To The Dordogne, Iain Frazer/Shutterstock.com

Western Dordogne to Rocamadour, Peter Garbet/iStockphoto

Eastern Peridord to Brantome, deanh, Fodors.com member

Travel Smart France, jimveilleux/istockphoto

Getting Here and Around, malhrovitz/istockphoto

Essentials, Galina Barskaya/Shutterstock.com

France Maps, iStockphoto

French Vocabulary, Marisa Allegra Williams/iStockphoto