Fodor's Seoul
Author: Fodor's Travel Guides
Date: 2022-11-29 00:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Travel
Description: Whether you want to hike in Bukhansan National Park, sing K-Pop in a karaoke room, or eat Korean street food at Gwangjang Market, the local Fodor's travel experts in Seoul are here to help! Fodor's Seoul guidebook is packed with maps, carefully curated recommendations, and everything else you need to simplify your trip-planning process and make the most of your time. This new edition has been fully-redesigned with an easy-to-read layout, fresh information, and beautiful color photos. This brand new title has been designed with an easy-to-read layout, fresh information, and beautiful color phot
Publisher: Fodor's Travel

About This Book

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EUGENE FODOR

Hungarian-born Eugene Fodor (1905–91) began his travel career as an interpreter on a French cruise ship. The experience inspired him to write On the Continent (1936), the first guidebook to receive annual updates and discuss a country’s way of life as well as its sights. Fodor later joined the U.S. Army and worked for the OSS in World War II. After the war, he kept up his intelligence work while expanding his guidebook series. During the Cold War, many guides were written by fellow agents who understood the value of insider information. Today’s guides continue Fodor’s legacy by providing travelers with timely coverage, insider tips, and cultural context.

Welcome to Seoul

Filled with skyscrapers, street markets, palaces, and temples, Seoul is the ultimate combination of new meets old, a buzzing hub of energy and enterprise mixed with tradition and serenity. In just a few decades, South Korea’s capital city has grown to one of the world’s most modern and vibrant megacities. Stunning beaches, mountains, and historic sights are just a day trip away, but linger first to soak in the frenetic pace and unique culture that make this city one of the hottest tourist destinations in Asia. As you plan your travels, let us know when we need to make updates by writing to us at editors@fodors.com.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Vibrant History: Centuries-old palaces, hanok villages, and museums tell Seoul’s story.

K-Culture: Ride the “Korean wave” that is the city’s K fashion, music, beauty, and film.

Heavenly Food: Markets, street food, teahouses, and specialty restaurants abound.

Pulsing Nightlife: The city seldom sleeps with its noraebang, bars, cafes, and clubs.

Parks and Mountains: Hike and climb in lush greenery, all within the city limits.

Quality Shopping: The streets are a treasure trove for retail therapy.

Contents

Cover

About This Book

Welcome to Seoul

Seoul Images

1 EXPERIENCE SEOUL

19 Ultimate Experiences

What’s Where

Seoul Today

What to Eat and Drink in Seoul

What to Buy in Seoul

Best Historical Sights

History You Can See

Korean Culture Primer

What to Watch, Read, and Listen to

2 TRAVEL SMART

Know Before You Go

Getting Here and Around

Essentials

Best Tours

Great Itineraries

Helpful Phrases in Korean

On the Calendar

Contacts

3 JONGNO-GU

Neighborhood Snapshot

Gwanghwamun and Around

Insa-dong, Ikseon-dong, and Bukchon Hanok Village

Hyehwa-dong

4 JUNG-GU

Neighborhood Snapshot

Myeongdong

City Hall

Euljiro

Seoul Station

Namdaemun and Around

5 DONGDAEMUN

Neighborhood Snapshot

6 HONGDAE

Neighborhood Snapshot

7 YEOUIDO

Neighborhood Snapshot

8 ITAEWON AND YONGSAN-GU

Neighborhood Snapshot

9 GANGNAM

Neighborhood Snapshot

10 JAMSIL AND EASTERN SEOUL

Neighborhood Snapshot

11 SIDE TRIPS FROM SEOUL

Welcome to Side Trips From Seoul

Planning

Paju

Panmunjeom and the DMZ

Suwon

Yongin

Nami Island

Incheon

Ganghwa Island

12 BUSAN

Welcome to Busan

Planning

Centum City

Haeundae

Gwangalli

Nam-gu

Seomyeon

Nampo-dong and Vicinity

Songjeong

Elsewhere in Busan

13 SIDE TRIPS FROM BUSAN

Welcome to Side Trips From Busan

Planning

Daegu

Gyeongju

Tongyeong

Geoje Island

Yeongnam Alps

14 JEJU-DO

Welcome to Jeju-do

Planning

Jeju-si

Hallasan National Park

Eastern Jeju

Northwestern Jeju

Seogwipo-si

Southwestern Jeju and the Southern Islands

COPYRIGHT

ABOUT OUR WRITERS

MAPS

Gwanghwamun and Around

Insa-dong, Ikseon-dong, and Bukchon Hanok Village

Hyehwa-dong

Jung-gu

Dongdaemun

Hongdae

Yeouido

Itaewon and Yongsan-gu

Gangnam

Jamsil and Eastern Seoul

Incheon and Ganghwa Island

Centum City, Gwangalli, Nam-gu, Seomyeon, Nampo-dong and Vicinity, Songjeong, and Elsewhere in Busan

Haeundae

Daegu

Gyeongju

Tongyeong

Jeju Island

Seoul Metro

19 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

Seoul offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

1 Mountains and Parks

Covering 31 square miles in northern Seoul, the mountainous Bukhansan National Park is one of the few national parks in the world set in the boundaries of a major metropolis. Another popular choice is Namsan Park, topped by N Seoul Tower. (Ch. 3, 8)

2 Palaces

Experience Seoul through a historic lens at one of the five grand palaces in the Jongno District, including Gyeongbokgung, the largest and most famous. (Ch. 3)

3 Cherry Blossoms

The trees in Yeouido and Seoul Grand Park burst with elegant pink blooms each spring, drawing many visitors. (Ch. 7)

4 Shopping

Trendy clothing and cosmetics shops populate Myeongdong; designer boutiques line the tree-lined streets of Garosu-gil; and souvenirs abound in Namdaemun Market. (Ch. 4, 9)

5 K-Pop Culture

Fans of BTS and PSY will swoon with a visit to Gangnam’s K-Star Road, a Walk of Fame lined with sculptures celebrating pop stars, plus recording studios, music cafes, and all things K-Pop themed. (Ch. 9)

6 Seoul Food

From street market tteokbokki to Korean barbecue to fried chicken and beer, Seoul entices with a world of big flavors. Start at Gwangjang Market. (Ch. 3–10)

7 Sky-High Observatories

Get a bird’s eye view of the city from N Seoul Tower set on Namsan mountain, the towering 63 Art Gallery, or Lotte World Tower—Korea’s tallest building. (Ch. 7, 8, 10)

8 Museums

Explore Korea through food at the Museum Kimchikan, through language at the National Hangeul Museum, and artifacts and art at the National Museum of Korea. (Ch. 3, 8)

9 Noraebang

Grab a friend or belt ballads solo in these private singing rooms, complete with disco balls, microphones, and waiters doling out libations to keep the party going into the wee hours. (Ch. 6, 8)

10 Temples

The oldest and most famous of Seoul’s Buddhist temples is Bongeunsa, featuring a towering Buddha statue that stands in stark contrast to the modern Seoul skyline. (Ch. 9)

11 Teahouses

Sip time-honored Korean brews such as green tea and yuja (citrus) tea in Insa-dong’s teahouses, often architectural treasures set in centuries-old wood hanoks. (Ch. 3)

12 Jimjilbang (Korean Bathhouses)

Korean bathhouses such as Dragon Hill Spa and Spa Lei are more like vast wellness theme parks, complete with hot and cold pools, treatment rooms, waterfalls, and even noraebang rooms. (Ch. 8, 9)

13 Bukchon Hanok Village

One of Seoul’s most picturesque spots is this charming collection of traditional houses dating back to the 15th century, now home to many guesthouses and cafes. (Ch. 3)

14 Lotus Lantern Festival

For the past 1,300 years, the celebration of Buddha’s birthday has taken place each April or May in central Seoul with a parade featuring thousands of colorful lanterns. (Ch. 2)

15 The DMZ

Guided visits to the Korean Demilitarized Zone separating North and South Korea feature tours of the Third Infiltration Tunnel, Dora Observatory, and a glimpse into the Hermit Kingdom. (Ch. 11)

16 Dongdaemun Design Plaza and Park

It may appear as though an alien craft has landed in central Seoul, but in actuality, it’s the Zaha Hadid–designed Dongdaemun Design Plaza, which hosts galleries, shops, and events. (Ch. 5)

17 Memorials

The War Memorial of Korea features poignant displays of military equipment and war memorabilia, a reminder that South Korea is dedicated to keeping the peace with the North. (Ch. 8)

18 Olympic Park and Stadium

Filled with sports venues, museums, and walking trails, Seoul Olympic Stadium and Park (originally built for the 1988 Summer Olympics) deserves a gold medal for “the best day trip.” (Ch. 10)

19 Cheonggyecheon Stream

Running approximately 11 km (7 miles) through the city center, the Cheonggyecheon Stream is a tranquil oasis of waterfalls, fountains, and waterfront walking paths. (Ch. 3)

WHAT’S WHERE

Jongno-gu. Seoul’s major historic center includes the palaces of Gwanghwamun, hanoks and teahouses in Insa-dong, and Bukchon Hanok Village.

Jung-gu. This central district encompasses Myeongdong’s shopping streets, plus City Hall, Namdaemun Market, and the Namsan Park Cable Car.

Dongdaemun. The futuristic Dongdaemun Design Plaza, an event center and gallery space, as well as the Dongdaemun Shopping Complex—the world’s largest market for fabrics and materials—are here.

Hongdae. Home to both Hongik and Ewha Women’s universities, the University Quarter is famous for affordable restaurants, shops, and some of the city’s trendiest nightclubs.

Yeouido. Set on a large island in the Han River, Yeouido is Seoul’s banking and financial district filled with international companies, sprawling parks, and glitzy high-rises.

Itaewon/Yongsan-gu. Also known as the global district, this area is a microcosm of nations and is famous for international restaurants, boutique hotels, and a buzzing nightlife scene.

Gangnam. South of the Han River, this glitzy district is home to the luxury brands lining Apgujeong Rodeo Street, chic boutiques in the Sinsadong Garusogil neighborhood, and Bongeunsa, one of Seoul’s oldest Buddhist temples.

Jamsil. Lining the Han River to the southeast is this riverside green space, home to Jamsil Sports Complex, the vast Olympic Park, and Lotte World indoor amusement park.

Side Trips from Seoul. Paju, Suwon, Nami Island, and Incheon are nearby.

Busan. Korea’s famed southern city is known for towering mountains, white-sand beaches, and the Busan International Film Festival.

Side Trips from Busan. Nature, culture, and history await in Daegu, Gyeongju, Tongyeong, Geoje Island, and the Yeongnam Alps.

Jeju Island. Billed as the “Hawaii of South Korea,” this subtropical island draws visitors to golden beaches and a dramatic volcanic landscape.

Seoul Today

Seoul is the epitome of a metropolis where new meets old. A city where centuries-old palaces and temples are juxtaposed with glittering high-rises, traditional Korean cuisine competes with new sustainable dining, and a history of Confucian culture makes way for modern social and political ideology. In short, it is a city filled with contrasts. This cosmopolitan capital once played second fiddle to its neighbors, yet its dedication to exporting culture and technology has propelled Seoul to become a major player on the international stage.

POLITICS

South Korea has been a democratic nation since 1987, a fact never more apparent than during the razor-sharp 2022 presidential race that saw Yook Suk-yeol, a member of the country’s conservative People Power Party, win by just 263,000 votes. Many feel his election is the continuing trend toward global populism, but others see his election as a refreshing detour from the status quo. Average South Koreans are hoping this election will signal an about face to rising home prices, lack of job opportunities, and government factions, as well as the accelerating North Korean nuclear program. In an unusual move, the new president is also eschewing the traditional presidential home Cheong Wa Dae (popularly known as the Blue House) in favor of a more egalitarian office in central Seoul.

THE KOREAN WAVE

South Korea’s main claim to fame globally is its K-Culture, also known as Hallyu or “Korean Wave.” This never ending stream of K-Pop, K-Drama, K-Style, and K-Beauty has taken the world by storm. The boy band BTS has swept the Grammys four years running; the K-Drama Squid Game was the first Korean title to top Netflix’s most-watched charts in 2021; and K-Beauty brands have infiltrated department stores and high streets the world over. Seoul is the nucleus of the tidal wave, with a thriving industry churning out all things K-Culture. In addition to a K-Pop walk of fame called K-Star Road and thousands of stores selling K- everything, the city plans to unveil Seoul Arena in 2025, a stadium dedicated solely to K-Pop performances.

HEALTHY EATING

In a country renowned for barbecue, it may come as a surprise that plant-based eating is on the rise. But with the world’s growing climate concerns and young Korean’s increasingly global attitude, plant-based food is growing rapidly in popularity. In the past, vegetarian choices in Seoul were mainly limited to rice, rice, and more rice. Nowadays vegetarian and vegan options can be found everywhere from Michelin-starred restaurants to humble convenience stores, and companies such as Beyond Meat, Subway, and the country’s beloved fast-food chain Lotteria have all introduced Seoulites to their meat-free products.

SUSTAINABILITY

It’s not just a cultural wave that has washed over Seoul. In recent years the country has also undergone a green wave that has transformed it into Asia’s second most sustainable city. Despite its size, Seoul has made remarkable efforts to combat climate change through aggressive recycling, renewable energy, and green infrastructure programs. In 2021 the South Korean government embraced its own version of a Green New Deal which aims to invest about ₩176.7 trillion ($144 billion) in creating nearly 2 million jobs by 2025. Since 2021 Seoul has also required that all new city buses be zero-emission vehicles, and the country has also set a target to achieve carbon neutrality by 2050.

TECHNOLOGY

Seoul-based electronics companies like LG and Samsung have long been known for embracing innovative technology. In a country where robots greet you at the airport, it’s fitting that a new generation of cutting-edge tech is gaining steam. In March 2022, the first hydrogen station powered by food biogas was unveiled just south of Seoul, with plans to ditch coal and increase clean energy production to power entire cities. Smart healthcare is also on the rise, and Seoul has a dedicated “smart hospital” with 5G network infrastructure. Yongin Severance Hospital has developed infection control robots that sanitize surfaces, monitor body temperature, and use AI facial recognition to detect if people are wearing masks or gathering in large groups.

What to Eat and Drink in Seoul

TTEOKBOKKI

While it may look a bit like a bowl full of glazed carrots, this popular street food dish is actually made from cylindrical rice cakes simmered in spicy anchovy and gochujang (red chili paste) sauce. Tteokbokki was invented in Seoul after the Korean War as inexpensive comfort food.

KIMCHI

Ask any Korean what the national food is, and this fermented cabbage dish is guaranteed to top the list. So beloved it has its own museum, kimchi recipes can include radishes, garlic, cucumbers, ginger, onions, and chili peppers. It’s served as a side dish with most meals—even breakfast.

BAR SNACKS

Old-school bars in Seoul may serve bondaegi (silkworm pupae), a snack or side dish that became popular during the Korean War when other sources of protein were scarce. Another common bar offering is dried, shredded squid or cuttlefish, which is often served with a side of mayonnaise or hot sauce.

KOREAN BARBECUE

A full-fledged DIY event, Korean barbecue involves diners roasting short ribs, pork belly, or chicken over a built-in grill at their table. An array of side dishes ranging from kimchi to doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew) is served with cuts of meat, and most diners add to the fun with a bottle or two of soju.

TWIGIM

If you’re walking down a street in Seoul and you get a whiff of a hot oil, French fry smell, chances are it’s twigim (not actually a food, but a Korean word that means “deep fried”). The word has come to refer to a collection of diet-unfriendly, deep-fried snacks. Squid, shrimp, and sweet potatoes are among the most popular varieties of twigim, but there are also many variations which include vegetables and meats. Considered the Korean version of tempura, twigim makes for a popular and portable street food option in Seoul’s myriad markets and tourist areas.

HOTTEOK

These doughy, sweet pancakes filled with a mixture of nuts, cinnamon, and sugar were introduced to Korea by Chinese immigrants in the 19th century. While you can find vendors hawking their goods on many a street corner year-round, they are especially prevalent during the colder winter months when a hot pancake is just the thing to take the chill off.

BIBIMBAP

The word bibim translates to “mixed” and bap translates to “rice,” and these rice bowls can be found almost everywhere. In addition to the rice, ingredients generally include mushrooms, bean sprouts, carrots, and a leafy green vegetable, all topped with a fried egg and gochujang (red chili paste) sauce.

JEON

A popular accompaniment to makgeolli (Korean rice wine), jeon are savory pancakes fried in oil and made with a combination of vegetables, meat, and seafood. More like a frittata, jeon is usually found in one of Seoul’s many food markets, such as Gwangjang Market.

MAKGEOLLI

If you want to imbibe some Korean history, try this milky looking, slightly effervescent rice wine that has been brewed by Koreans as far back as the Goryeo Dynasty in 918. A handful of craft makgeolli brewhouses can be found throughout Seoul.

SOJU

First brought to the peninsula in the 13th century by Mongol invaders, soju (meaning “burned liquor” in Korean), is made from distilled rice or wheat and is considered the country’s national drink. This clear alcohol is similar to yet distinct from vodka.

MANDU

Korean dumplings are filled with beef or pork, usually folded into a half-moon shape, and either steamed or pan-fried. They’re served with a side of kimchi and soy sauce.

KOREAN FRIED CHICKEN

Unlike its American counterpart, Korean fried chicken eschews the battered outer layer and instead uses a double frying technique to make an extra crispy exterior—a method that some claim makes it the best in the world.

What to Buy in Seoul

SOJU AND MAKGEOLLI

Two beloved Korean alcoholic beverages, the distilled rice or wheat liquor known as soju and the milky rice wine makgeolli, can be purchased in convenience stores for less than ₩2,000. Small-batch distilleries also craft special artisanal versions.

K-BEAUTY PRODUCTS

Long known to Koreans as the secret to clear, youthful skin, K-Beauty products have developed an insatiable international following in the past decade. Entire streets in Myeongdong are dedicated to K-Beauty stores, but a good place to start is the department store Shinsegae or the emporium Olive Young, stocking in-demand brands like Dr. Jart+ and Sulwhasoo.

RAMYEON

Fun fact: South Korea is the world’s largest consumer of instant noodles, with each person averaging 76 packages of ramyeon per year (Vietnam is second place with 55 packages per person per year). What other nations call ramen or instant noodles, ramyeon is the Korean counterpart with flavors ranging from the standard chicken or seafood to the more unique cheese or black bean.

GINSENG

Used in traditional herbal remedies in China, Japan, and Korea for thousands of years, ginseng is reputed to reduce inflammation and boost the immune system. In traditional markets, you’ll see ginseng plants suspended in jars of brown liquid, but more transportable versions can be found in vitamin form at departments stores such as Lotte or Hyundai.

K-STYLE

Schoolgirl skirts, baggy or ripped jeans, bustiers, and black leather are just some of the trends that define this style made popular by K-Pop stars. To get the look, shop the labels 8 Seconds or Stylenanda. Stylenanda’s flagship store in Jung-gu, Stylenanda Pink Hotel + Pink Pool Cafe, is so trendy you may see a real K-Pop star browsing the racks.

HANBOK

The word hanbok simply means “Korean clothing.” Traditional garments include brightly colored, bell-shaped skirts and blouses, and flowing trousers and a robe-like overcoat. Today, they’re mainly worn on special occasions. Buy an outfit at Gwangjang Market.

TRADITIONAL CRAFTS

For thousands of years, craftspeople along the Korean peninsula have been making handmade paper, chopsticks, inlaid mother-of-pearl boxes, masks, fans, and more. The best place to shop for these creations is Insa-dong, filled with winding alleys of traditional craft stores.

DRIED SEAWEED

As a coastal nation, it’s natural that Koreans would consume large quantities of seafood, and seaweed is eaten dried as a snack. Good to take on the go, it’s also used in many popular recipes including kimbap (rice rolls wrapped in seaweed) and bibimbap (rice bowls with vegetables).

KOREAN STATIONERY

Korea has a rigorous education system, with school in session for up to 12 hours a day. This emphasis on learning has led to the production of some of the world’s best school supplies, including aisles of adorable notebooks, bins bursting with a rainbow of pens and pencils, and a Post-it note selection to make your head spin.

SOCKS

It’s polite to take off your shoes upon entering homes, schools, and many restaurants and businesses in Korea. Going barefoot is a big no-no, so wearing socks is a manner of etiquette. It’s no wonder you can find a wide array of quirky ankle socks printed with everything from cartoon characters to K-Pop bands.

Best Historical Sights

GWANGHWAMUN GATE

While Gyeongbokgung Palace and the surrounding grounds are a real sight to behold, Gwanghwamun Gate—the palace’s main entry point—is a worthwhile focal point. The main edifice of this striking structure is built from granite, topped with the sloping wood roof characterized by Joseon Dynasty architecture. (Ch. 3)

INSA-DONG

One of Seoul’s oldest and most charming neighborhoods has narrow alleys and a pedestrianized main street brimming with teahouses, traditional restaurants, and craft boutiques. Whether you’re shopping for handmade souvenirs, partaking in a time-honored tea ceremony, or indulging in a hanjeongsik (a meal with up to 30 dishes), Insa-dong will give you a taste of the old Seoul. (Ch. 3)

CHANGDEOKGUNG PALACE

The second royal villa to be constructed is said to have been a favorite of the royal family. It was burned down by the Japanese during the Imjin War in the 16th century but was reconstructed less than 10 years later. Behind the royal residence building is the “Secret Garden,” one of the most serene spots in Seoul. (Ch. 3)

GYEONGBOKGUNG PALACE

This stately palace on tranquil grounds is the largest of Seoul’s five “Grand Palaces.” Built in 1395, Gyeongbokgung was the home to the kings of the powerful Joseon Dynasty, which lasted from 1392 to 1897. A visit in spring can be particularly memorable due to cherry blossoms. (Ch. 3)

BONGEUNSA TEMPLE

This Buddhist temple dating from 794 creates a striking juxtaposition between historic Seoul and the ultra-modern Gangnam district surrounding it. Located on Sudo Mountain, the oldest temple in the city has a 91-foot stone statue of Maitreya (the future Buddha), who gazes serenely at the towering skyscrapers. (Ch. 9)

SUNGNYEMUN (NAMDAEMUN) GATE

One of the Eight Gates in the Fortress Wall of Seoul, Sungnyemun Gate boasts the lofty title of “National Treasure No. 1.” The massive structure was commissioned in the Confucian style in the 1470s by the beloved King Sejong and was last restored in 2013. (Ch. 4)

THE FORTRESS WALL OF SEOUL

At a length of nearly 19 km (11 ½ miles), the 14th-century fortress wall encircles what is now the central part of the city. The massive structure contained eight elaborate gates meant to keep invaders out. A 21st-century restoration revived much of it. (Ch. 3, 4, 5)

THIRD INFILTRATION TUNNEL

Korean War history buffs will enjoy a visit to this DMZ sight, one of four known tunnels built by North Korea to reach South Korea. It’s said to have been designed for a theoretical surprise attack that would’ve allowed 30,000 soldiers per hour to enter Seoul. A miniature train transports tourists into the cavernous depths. (Ch. 11)

CHEONG WA DAE

Meaning “pavilion of blue tiles,” the Blue House is Seoul’s former presidential palace (Seoul’s newest president, Yoon Suk-yeol, moved his office to the heart of Seoul). Located in the Jongno-gu district, the palace was built on the site of a royal garden. Free history tours are offered in English if booked at least three weeks in advance. (Ch. 3)

BUKCHON HANOK VILLAGE

Winding alleys, gently sloping rooftops, traditional wood-and-tile hanok houses, and quaint teahouses make this 600-year-old village an infinitely charming place to spend the afternoon. (Ch. 3)

History You Can See

While humans have called the peninsula home for millennia, Korean history can be traced back about 5,000 years. Most of the sights relevant to visitors today were constructed as far back as the 2nd century BCE.

THE THREE KINGDOMS

The Three Kingdoms period gave rise to three different tribal groups that came to dominate the peninsula: Goguryeo, Silla, and Baekje. Baekje’s capital of Wirye was located in modern-day Seoul, and you can see the burial mounds of Baekje kings firsthand at the Seokchon-dong Ancient Tombs.

The period was one of constant power plays and fighting, and Silla eventually came out on top. This was one of the greatest dynasties in Korean history, lasting from the 1st century BCE to the 10th century CE. It established its capital at Gyeongju, which today is a kind of open-air museum dedicated to this kingdom’s storied past.

Established in 918 after the collapse of Silla, Goryeo went on to rule the whole of the Korean peninsula, even expanding into pockets of modern-day China. It was during this time that Buddhism flourished, and the Tripitaka Koreana—Buddhist scriptures carved onto 81,258 wooden carving blocks—is evidence of that golden era. The collection is currently housed at Haeinsa Temple in South Gyeongsang Province and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

THE JOSEON DYNASTY

The Joseon (also spelled Chosun) dynasty was established 1392, and it saw no fewer than 26 monarchs. Most of the royal residences (such as the Gyeongbokgung Palace) and other monuments you’ll see in Seoul were built during this period, with many of them having been damaged during various Japanese invasions that occurred over the years.

JAPANESE OCCUPATION

The Japanese annexed Korea in 1910, and the Korean peninsula remained under Japanese rule until the end of World War II. During this time many palaces and monuments were damaged, and many Koreans, including independence activists, were imprisoned at what is now the Seodaemun Prison History Hall. You can visit the prison today, an illuminating lesson in the historical suffering of Koreans on the way to independence.

THE KOREAN WAR

In 1945, the peninsula was divided into North and South Korea, which led to the Korean War (1950-1953), one of the 20th Century’s bloodiest conflagrations. The armistice between the two countries continues to this day, meaning that they are still technically at war. While the north is dominated by a harsh authoritarian government, democratic South Korea has evolved into a peaceful and prosperous nation. A visit to Panmunjeom and the DMZ is a poignant reminder of the division that exists not only in the land itself, but also in the hearts of the Korean people.

Korean Culture Primer

The Korean peninsula has thousands of years of history, religious expression, art, and architecture to explore, as well as modern cultural exports. The so-called Korean Wave, known as Hallyu, is the production of Korean pop music, drama, style, and beauty practices that have caused a tidal wave of popularity across the globe. But amidst the glitz and glamour of modern-day Seoul, there’s always a glimpse of Korea’s rich cultural heritage peeking out at every turn.

RELIGION

Buddhism was introduced to Korea during the Three Kingdoms period in approximately the 4th century CE. The proliferation of temples and works of religious art soon followed, many of which can still be seen today and have become UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Korean scholar An Hyang introduced Confucianism in the 14th century, a system based on morality and respect for others that still dominates South Korean society. Modern-day South Korean religion is diverse, with about 50 percent of the population claiming no religious affiliation, and 25 percent each affiliated with Christianity or Buddhism.

ARCHITECTURE

Korean architecture is known for its simplicity, naturalistic themes, and gentle lines. Most of the original structures built during the Three Kingdoms period were made of wood and have not survived, but a few stone pagodas from the period show the importance early architects placed on symmetry and grace. The later Silla period introduced roof tiles, bronze work, and Buddhist iconography. In addition to the five royal palaces in Seoul, hundreds of traditional Buddhist temples still exist throughout South Korea, each one an example of the elegant beauty that characterizes Korean architecture.

ART

For thousands of years, artists on the peninsula have captured the natural beauty of Korea through the visual and performing arts. As with architecture, Korean art is characterized by simplicity and natural elements; examples in pottery, painting, sculpture, and calligraphy can be found in many of the city’s museums and palaces. Korean folk dance features dancers clad in colorful hanboks (Korean traditional dress) and carrying intricately painted fans. The most popular traditional musical instrument is a plucked stringed instrument called a haegeum, known to feature in traditional court music. Textiles also have a place in the art history of the Korean peninsula, with colorful bojagi fabrics creating the centerpiece.

K-POP

Since the early 2000s K-Pop has been a phenomenon in Asia, with high-energy bands like Super Junior and Girls’ Generation reaching millions of starstruck fans. But it wasn’t until the artist Psy broke a billion views on YouTube with his 2012 megahit “Gangnam Style” that the genre really took off in the United States. Since then K-Pop has officially landed on the international music scene, with bands like BTS, Blackpink, and TXT topping the charts, and receiving nominations and awards at the Grammys.

K-DRAMA

K-Drama has also become an international sensation, with a veritable army of actors turning out romance, thriller, and horror flicks and TV series that have become popular with American audiences. The first foreign-language film ever to win an Academy Award for Best Picture was the Korean movie Parasite, while Squid Game, a 2021 thriller series, became Netflix’s most-watched show ever within a month of its release.

K-STYLE

One thing that sets K-Pop and K-Drama apart from music and film in the rest of the world is the clothing style worn by its performers. While it can be sexy, grungy, or preppy, a common thread is that K-Style clothes are mainly oversized and feature unique details like asymmetrical hems, slits, or cut-off collars or sleeves. This distinctive streetwear style is unique to Korea, with many fashion brands in Seoul emulating the latest Hallyu trends.

K-BEAUTY

Korean cosmetic brands like Sulwhasoo, TONYMOLY, and Dr. Jart+ have become famous the world over, cementing Korea’s place at the forefront of skincare. Countless emporiums in Seoul are lined with cleansers, serums, and mask sheets made from run-of-the-mill ingredients such as aloe or cocoa butter to the more unexpected including snail mucus, bee venom, or pig collagen. Skincare and makeup in Seoul is often gender-neutral, with everyone participating in daily beauty regimens.

What to Watch, Read, and Listen to

BTS

K-Pop boy band BTS first began to dominate global music charts when they debuted in 2013. Despite announcing they’d be taking a break in 2022, the seven members’ colorful costumes, smooth dance moves, and pin-up worthy faces continue to attract an international army of loyal fans. Listen to tracks like “Butter” or “Dynamite” to fuel your visit with energy, and make a pilgrimage to “Big Hit Entertainment” in Gangnam to see where the group was first signed.

BLACKPINK

Seoul-based girl band Blackpink is known for juxtaposing the flirtatious with the edgy. Since the release of their hit single “Boombayah” in 2016, the four members have become global superstars and social media sensations.

SQUID GAME

This creepy K-Drama series released on Netflix in 2021 instantly became an internet sensation spawning countless memes. Part survival thriller and part horror flick, the K-Drama pits desperate contestants against each other in a fight to the death for a cash prize. Mostly filmed on sets in Daejon that have since been dismantled, the series also shot many scenes in and around the capital including Namsan Park, Gangnam, and the IFC Mall.

FORECASTING LOVE & WEATHER

The popular K-Drama Forecasting Love & Weather is a jaunty rom-com that follows the antics of co-workers in the Korea Meteorological Administration (and was actually filmed in the real thing) in southwest Seoul.

PARASITE

The first foreign-language film ever to be awarded best picture at the Academy Awards, Parasite is a twisty family drama that explores the consequences of greed. Filming locations include the Woori Supermarket and the Ki-taek village stairs, both in Mapo-gu, Seoul.

ZOMBIE MOVIES AND TV SHOWS

Movies and TV shows featuring the undead are a hit in South Korea. The classic Train to Busan features a dad and daughter duo trying to escape a zombie outbreak in Seoul by boarding a train to the peninsula’s southernmost city, Busan. In the Netflix series All of Us Are Dead, a zombie outbreak at a Korean high school leaves students trapped with their flesh-eating former classmates. The 16th-century period drama series Kingdom follows the royal family during a mysterious pestilence.

PACHINKO

Written by Korean-American journalist Min Jin Lee, Pachinko is a sweeping work of historical fiction that follows a Korean family that moves to Japan during the Japanese occupation of Korea and World War II. After you’re finished with the book, binge the television show based on the novel of the same name.

THE OLD WOMAN WITH THE KNIFE

This English-language debut by South Korean author Gu Byeong-Mo follows a 65-year-old assassin as she embarks on her final assignment. Already an international bestseller, The Old Woman With the Knife explores the perceptions of aging women in society.

THE DARK SIDE OF SEOUL PODCAST

Produced by a folklorist and history buff duo who run a ghost walk in the capital, this English-language podcast delves into some of Seoul’s spookiest ghost stories, grizzliest true crime, and darkest moments in the city’s long history.

KOREA 24

If it’s current affairs you’re looking for, check out Korea 24. This weekday podcast delivers news updates about Seoul and South Korea to an international audience curious about the country’s most important issues and events.

THE KOREA TRAVEL LOG

Created by KBS, Korea’s leading news channel and public broadcaster, this informative podcast transports listeners to explore the sights and sounds of Korea’s most popular tourist destinations in bite-sized episodes.

VINCENZO

In this K-Drama TV series, a Korean-Italian mafia lawyer comes to Seoul to flee the mob and to recover his fortune. On your trip to Seoul, check out filming locations including Sewoon Plaza and Cheonggyecheon Stream.

THE VEGETARIAN

This Man Booker International Prize-winning novel by Han Kang tells an allegorical story of a woman who stops eating meat after dreams of animal slaughter. If you like Han Kang, continue your journey with Human Acts, a historical novel about the 1980 Gwangju uprising.

Know Before You Go

South Korea is one of the most densely populated countries on the planet. With more than half of the population of 51.8 million living in the Seoul Capital Area (and 9.8 in Seoul itself), the city is beyond mega. While Seoul is always bustling, it’s also ultra-organized. With a few tips and tricks, you’ll be prepared for a trip to Seoul in no time.

CONFUCIAN PRINCIPLES RULE

Korean scholar An Hyang was the man responsible for making Confucianism mainstream in Korea in the 14th century. A philosophical system of thought and behavior based on morality, one of Confucianism’s main tenets is respect for others. This social structure has created a polite and orderly capital, where the norm is to wait patiently in line to enter a subway car, to give up your seat to an elderly person, to wear a mask if you’re sick (East Asia has been wearing masks in public long before COVID-19), and to be prepared in line at coffee shops in order not to keep the people behind you waiting unnecessarily—all in the name of etiquette and consideration for others.

WHEN IN DOUBT, DIAL 1330

While many people speak English in Seoul and subway signs are written in both Korean and English, you may still need help navigating. The 1330 Korea Travel Helpline is a tourist hotline and translation service run by the Korea Tourism Organization. Not only can the free service help with train times, shopping advice, and restaurant hours in Seoul and in most other regions of South Korea, but it also provides translation services, and connection to the Ministry of Justice or Emergency Rescue Service. In addition to English, other languages available are Korean, Japanese, and Chinese available 24/7 and 365 days a year, with Russian, Vietnamese, Thai, and Malay offered seven days a week from 8 am to 7 pm. From a foreign phone, dial +82-2-1330; from a Korean line use 02-1330.

EVERYTHING IS DONE THROUGH SMARTPHONE

Seoul is one of the most tech-savvy cities on earth, with tickets, payments, hotel key cards, and nearly everything else done via smartphone. Purchasing an international plan through your cell phone provider prior to arrival is a great option (just make sure your phone is carrier unlocked) and will be able to roam in most regions of the country. Another option is to check out the many airport kiosks selling local sim cards or renting portable Wi-Fi hot spots.

YOU CAN DRINK THE TAP WATER

In the past few decades, Seoul has revamped its water pipes and installed an advanced water purification system that filters water using ozone and activated carbon. While this process makes the tap water in Seoul perfectly safe to drink, most Koreans still prefer to drink bottled or filtered water. Throughout the city, in public buildings such as museums, restaurants, pharmacies, and government buildings you’ll find filtered water tanks for public (or customer) use, and bottled water is cheap (less than ₩1,000) and readily available in convenience stores on practically every street corner.

FOR A BIG CITY, IT’S SURPRISINGLY CALM

Despite its megacity standing, Seoul is organized—and in some areas, downright tranquil. The respect most Koreans show toward others helps with the feeling of safety and personal space. The adherence to rules makes for a tidy city with little to no litter or graffiti. And Koreans’ love of nature has ensured that despite decades of growth, Seoul has retained plenty of green space for its citizens to spread out.

THERE ARE DIFFERENT RULES FOR DINING HERE

The golden rule? Never shove your chopsticks straight up in a bowl of rice—this is only done at Korean ceremonies honoring ancestors, and it represents death. If you’re taking a break, place your chopsticks horizontally on the side of your bowl or on the table. Otherwise, the rules of dining can be different depending on who you’re eating with. If you’re eating with friends the same age it’s a relaxed affair, but throw in a group of mixed ages and etiquette changes rapidly. The oldest person at the table must start eating first; then everyone else may proceed. If someone pours you a drink, hold your cup to them with two hands, and then pour them a drink using two hands to hold the pouring vessel. In the past, if the elder person takes a swig of soju (Korean rice whiskey) everyone at the table would need to follow suit to be polite, but that custom is beginning to change, as is the custom in which the oldest person is responsible for paying the entire bill.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION CAN GET YOU (ALMOST) ANYWHERE

Public transportation in Seoul is efficient, inexpensive, and easy to navigate. Between buses and subways, getting around Seoul is an easy task, as most signage at subways and bus stops features at least some English. Before boarding, consider purchasing a pre-paid T-Money transportation card in the automated vending machines in the subway station or at most convenience stores, which saves ₩100 per trip and is easier than carrying change.

GOOGLE MAPS WON’T WORK IN SOUTH KOREA

A frustration to tourists and business travelers alike is that Google Maps is virtually useless in Seoul. While you can get directions and travel times from one public transportation station to another, walking and driving directions are not available. That’s because South Korea has strict government regulations on mapping data, and Korean maps are not allowed to be stored on foreign computer servers (which Google does). This is supposedly a regulation left unchanged since the Korean War, when South Korean maps were tightly guarded to prevent infiltration from North Korean troops. Until this law is updated, visitors to Seoul are better off using local map options like Naver or Kakao.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION HAS ITS OWN ETIQUETTE

Join the line and only enter once departing passengers have stepped off. Once inside, use a quiet voice if you’re speaking, don’t put your feet on any seats, and don’t cross your legs if seated. If you’re standing, face the people in the seats—never put your backside to them. There are special seats for the elderly, disabled people, and pregnant women, and sitting in them is a no-no, even if the bus or train is not crowded. If it is crowded and you’re seated, be sure to give your seat up if an elderly person boards. On subways, listen for announcements about which side of the car the doors will open at the next station, and be prepared to quickly move aside if you’re in the way.

BE AWARE OF SUPERSTITIONS

While modern Seoul is a cosmopolitan metropolis brimming with science and technology, there are still superstitions. For example, while new buildings will have a fourth floor, older public buildings, hospitals, and apartment buildings go straight from floor three to five. This superstition comes from the fact that the Chinese character for the word death is pronounced sah, which is the same word for the number four in Korean (the Korean language is heavily influenced by Chinese). Other superstitions include the concept of “fan death,” in that if you leave an electric fan running in a room overnight it will kill you, or that if you write your name with a red pen you will soon meet an untimely end.

Getting Here and Around
d Air

Flying time to Seoul is about 15 hours from New York, 12 hours from Seattle, and 13 hours from San Francisco, all nonstop. Most other flights to Seoul from eastern, midwestern, and southern U.S. airports will have a layover in one of these airports.

Peak travel times are during the spring and fall, and particularly during Seollal (Korean Lunar New Year) in January or February, and Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving) in September or October, when Koreans flock to their hometowns to celebrate. During these times airports can be very crowded, so be sure to allow plenty of time.

AIRPORTS

The primary airport serving Seoul is one of the world’s biggest and busiest: Incheon International Airport (ICN), 48 km (30 miles) west of Seoul. Another major airport is Gimpo International Airport (GMP), 24 km (15 miles) west of Seoul, but most international flights from the U.S. and Europe arrive in Incheon. Accessing both airports via subway or train is a breeze and the best choice if you prefer to avoid Seoul’s unpredictable traffic, though buses and taxis are also options.

AIRPORT TRANSFERS

BY BUS FROM INCHEON:

Airport Limousine Buses depart Incheon Airport Terminals 1 and 2 for central Seoul every 10 to 30 minutes to major hotels and tourist areas. The buses operate 24 hours, although the frequency is reduced between midnight and 5 am. There are two types of buses that may be in use. Deluxe Limousine Buses are nonstop and cost ₩14,000 to ₩16,000 one way, but these buses feature limited destinations. The Standard Limousine Buses cost between ₩9,000 to ₩10,000 one way. This option is more crowded and has more stops, but covers a wider range of destinations. Tickets can be purchased at the ticket windows next to exits 4, 6–8, 11, and 13. The trip takes about 60 to 90 minutes depending on traffic.

BY TAXI FROM INCHEON:

Taxis are a convenient way to travel to central Seoul if you don’t mind a little traffic. Taxi ranks are located outside arrivals in Terminals 1 and 2. Korean taxis use a meter to calculate the fare, meaning prices will vary wildly based on which area of this giant metropolis you’re traveling to. The price may range from ₩60,000 to ₩100,000, and the journey time should be between 60 to 90 minutes.

BY TRAIN FROM INCHEON:

The quickest and easiest way into Seoul from Incheon Airport is the A’REX (Airport Railroad), which departs from both Terminals 1 and 2. Follow the clearly marked signage to the train station where there are two types of trains, the Express Train and the All-Stop Train. The Express train takes 45 minutes, runs nonstop to Seoul Station, and passengers have access to Wi-Fi and assigned seats. Tickets cost ₩9,500, and the train departs every 30 to 45 minutes between 5:15 am and 10:48 pm. Credit card and cash payments are accepted at the kiosk outside the entrance.

The All-Stop train stops at 11 subway stations, including at Gimpo International Airport, before arriving at Seoul Station 60 minutes later. All-Stop trains run every 5 to 15 minutes from 5:18 am until 11:32 pm, and each ticket costs ₩4,150 from Terminal 1 and ₩4,750 from Terminal 2.

Tickets can be purchased with cash only at either the kiosk or through automated machines, and seats are unassigned.

BY BUS FROM GIMPO:

Airport Limousine Buses depart the Domestic Terminal of Gimpo International Airport on 19 different routes around Seoul including Insadong and Myeongdong. (If you arrive at the International terminal, take the free airport shuttle bus to the Domestic Terminal). Fares range from ₩7,000 to ₩15,000, buses depart every 8 to 50 minutes, and travel time ranges from 30 to 60 minutes depending on location. The first bus departs at 4:50 am and the last bus at 11 pm, seven days a week.

BY TAXI FROM GIMPO:

A taxi rank is located outside the main arrivals area of both the Domestic and International terminals. Korean taxis use a meter to calculate the fare, meaning prices will fluctuate depending on which district you’re traveling to. The price may range from ₩30,000 to ₩36,000, and the journey time should be between 20 to 25 minutes.

BY TRAIN FROM GIMPO:

The A’REX (Airport Railroad) All-Stop train departs from Gimpo International Airport and links to the Seoul Subway. Follow the clearly marked signage to the train station and purchase a ticket via the kiosk or automated ticket machine for between ₩1,900 and ₩3,400 depending on your final destination. Trains depart every 5 to 15 minutes between 5:18 am and 11:32 pm.

TRANSFER BETWEEN AIRPORTS

The distance between Seoul’s two airports is 43 km (27 miles). The fastest way to travel between the airports is by taxi, which generally takes around 30 minutes and costs ₩55,000 to ₩70,000. Direct buses cost ₩7,500 to ₩9,000 and take around 45 minutes. If you’re transiting during rush hour a more prudent choice may be the A’REX (Airport Railroad) All-Stop train, which has only 5 stops between airports. This option costs ₩3,550 and takes 33 minutes (trains depart every 5 to 15 minutes).

j Bus

Seoul buses are convenient, safe, and affordable, and the color-coded system makes navigating fairly simple. Blue buses follow the main route and connect different districts of the city. Green buses travel between subway stations and between blue bus routes. Yellow buses travel in a circular route around the city. Red buses travel from the city center to the surrounding suburbs. Bus rides cost between ₩700 and ₩2,400 depending on the route, with most bus journeys costing ₩1,300. (You save ₩100 with the T-Money card, the city’s reusable public transportation card which you can load with money.) The major stops have information in both English and Korean, and there are apps such as KakaoBus to help you choose your route.

k Car

Driving in Seoul can be a real headache for travelers between the traffic, the language barrier, and the lack of easy parking options. Because there’s such effective public transportation, driving is not recommended unless you’re also traveling outside the city to a place not reachable by bus or train.

CAR RENTALS

If you do choose to rent a car, you can do so at Incheon Airport or Gimpo International Airport through international brands Hertz or Avis, or Korean companies SK Rent or Lotte Rent-A-Car. Keep in mind it’s required to have a valid International Driving Permit (IDP) along with your regular driver’s license and your passport. (Important note: Your full name must match on your passport and your IDP or car rental will be denied.)

Prices start at around ₩93,000 per day, which includes the standard insurance. This basic insurance doesn’t cover theft or damage to the car so you may wish to purchase supplemental insurance from the rental agency for these incidentals.

PARKING

Street parking is confusing and often requires a permit. Public and private parking garages can be found near department stores and tourist attractions throughout the city, though they are often full and can be expensive—₩5,000 or more per hour.

RULES OF THE ROAD

In South Korea traffic drives on the right side of the road. While Seoul can be chaotic during rush hour and the freeways are often crowded, most people generally follow traffic signals and drive in an orderly manner (barring motorcycle delivery drivers, who can often be seen driving on the sidewalks).

Additionally, roads are well-maintained, and traffic and directional signs are in Korean and English. If you’re traveling outside the capital by car, many roads have tolls and will accept cash or credit cards (however, in some instances foreign cards may not work so bring cash for a backup).

5 Public Transport

SEOUL METROPOLITAN SUBWAY

The subway is by far the most efficient way to get around Seoul. Stations can be recognized by either a blue and yellow rectangular sign that has the image of a train and an M on top, and/or a horizontal gray sign with the name of the station, and colored circles indicating which subway lines the station serves. Usually placed at intersections, the entrances are covered and lead directly to stairs or escalators. (Elevators are available in select stations, and are usually accessed by a separate entrance above ground.)

The Seoul Metropolitan Subway is consistently recognized as one of the best transit systems in the world because of its reliability, cleanliness, and vast coverage area—it’s the longest metro system by route length. The 22 lines are color-coded and easy to navigate, with ultra-clear signage in Korean and English both above ground and throughout each of its more than 700 stations. About 90 percent of Seoul Subway stations have free bathrooms.

Trains run from 5:30 am to midnight or 1 am, but some stations close earlier, so be sure to listen for announcements (provided in Korean and English) or check the operating hours of the station you are traveling to. Signs at each platform will tell you which station you’re at, as well as the names and numbers of the stations on the previous and next stops. Each station has a designated number with stations before or after either increasing or decreasing to help easily determine your direction of travel.

Subway tickets in Seoul take the form of either single-journey tickets or T-Money cards, a reusable plastic transportation card that can be used on subways, buses, some taxis, and even as payment in affiliated stores. The base fare for single-journey tickets is ₩1,350 up to travel a distance of 10 km (6 miles) or less. If you travel further than that, an additional ₩100 will be charged per 5 km (3 miles) between a 10 km and 50 km (31 mile) distance, and an additional ₩100 for every 8 km (5 miles) after that. Single-journey tickets can be purchased with cash only at the automated ticket machines in each subway station. After selecting your language, you can easily navigate to choose how many tickets, find the stop you want, and pay for the whole journey up front. In addition to your fare, the card has a ₩500 won deposit, which you can claim back at a refund machine after using your card to exit the gates at your chosen station (you must have your card to exit the gates, so keep it safe).

T-MONEY CARDS

T-Money cards, the city’s reusable plastic transportation cards, can be purchased for ₩2,500 to ₩4,000 at ticket machines in the subway stations or at many convenience stores. Once you’ve purchased your card it’s yours to keep. Add money to your card at the ticket machines or convenience store where you purchased it. Once your card is loaded you can scan it as you enter the subway gates. The benefit of the T-Money card is a slight discount on subway (and bus) fares, with the base fare being reduced to ₩1,250. (The additional fares based on distance are the same as for single-journey tickets.) Once you’ve arrived at your destination station, place your card on the gate reader as you exit, and depending on the distance you’ve traveled it may deduct an additional amount. If your card doesn’t have enough money loaded on it to exit, a little alarm will sound to alert you that you need to top up your card. Take it to the card reload machine by the exit to add the difference before proceeding out.

If you don’t use all the money on your T-Money card, you can go to a deposit refund machine to get your money back (minus a small processing charge). It’s recommended that you add money to your card in relatively small amounts, as the refund process is different (and difficult) for amounts over ₩50,000.

DISCOVER SEOUL PASS

There’s a special transportation card called the Discover Seoul Pass, which functions as both a T-Money card and a discount card for attractions around Seoul. The card is available in 24-, 48-, or 72-hour options, and costs ₩39,000, ₩55,000, and ₩70,000 respectively. Those prices don’t include transportation fare so if you want to use it as a T-Money card be sure to top it up at an automated ticket machine in the subway or a convenience store.

You can also get a digital version of the Discover Seoul Pass through the Discover Seoul Pass app. Although it doesn’t work as a T-Money card you get various other additional perks, including a ride on the A’REX train from Incheon to Seoul, a one-day tour on the Seoul City Tour Bus, and 24-hour use of Seoul city’s public bikes. Whether you have the digital or physical card, you can also use the app to check how much time you have remaining on your pass, and to find out which shops and attractions offer discounts.

o Ride-Sharing

Uber entered the market in Seoul in 2013, but was pushed out again in 2015 after Seoul’s taxi drivers protested what they considered to be an affront to their livelihoods. While Uber has since reentered the market in Seoul under the name UT, it is not a popular choice.

Most Koreans use an app called KakaoTaxi, which is available in English (though Korean addresses can be a bit tricky to navigate within the English version of the app). While not technically a ride-share (since only one person or group rides in the car at once), KakaoTaxi is a hybrid between local taxis registered on the app and private drivers who use company cars or register their own cars to work with the company. The bottom line: unless you’re moving to Seoul or are there for an extended period of time to practice navigating within the app, it may be a whole lot easier just to hail a cab on the street.

6 Taxi

With more than 250,000 licensed taxi drivers in Seoul, it’s not hard to find a lift. Standard orange taxis are available around the clock and can be flagged down on the street or found at taxi ranks around large hotels, shopping centers, and tourist attractions. South Korean taxis use a meter, with the base fare starting at ₩3,800 for the first 2 km (1.24 miles), adding ₩100 per 132 meters (.08 miles) after that, or ₩100 per 31 seconds for an idling charge. A 20 percent late-night surcharge is added to the total fare for rides between midnight and 4 am. Black deluxe taxis have a bit more legroom and jumbo taxis can seat up to eight passengers; both start at ₩6,500 for 3 km (1.9 miles), adding ₩200 per 151 meters (0.9 miles) or a ₩200 per 36 seconds idling fee. There are also international taxis catering to foreign tourists, with drivers who speak English, Chinese, or Japanese. (These are available by advance reservation only.)

q Train

Train travel in Korea is a delight, as the trains are efficient, clean, and cover a wide range of destinations. Seoul Station is the main train station in the capital, and where the KTX High-Speed trains depart on their journey south. Traveling at speeds of up to 330 km/hour (205 mph), the KTX can reach Busan on the south coast in approximately 3 hours. The journey also stops in large cities along the way such as Suwon, Daegu, and Gyeongju. A KTX ticket from Seoul to Busan costs about ₩59,000 (prices fluctuate with holidays or time of day). There are also a number of regular “slow” trains that travel to many other areas of the country. Train tickets can easily be reserved online through the Korail website, which has English and Chinese options.

Essentials
t Addresses

Addresses in Seoul can be tricky for out-of-towners. For one thing, they’re usually written in Hangeul, the Korean alphabet, not in Roman characters. They are also written starting with the city, followed by the district, and finishing with the street name and number—the exact opposite of how addresses are composed in western nations. To make matters more complicated, South Korea has recently switched from an old address system in which addresses are written: city, district (gu), neighborhood (dong), land lot number to a new one written: city, district, street name and number, with many people still using the old method. It’s helpful that street names are generally clearly marked, but unhelpful that many have the same name (they are differentiated by number, for example, Mangwon-ro 1, Mangwon-ro 2, etc.). Streets usually carry the suffix - daero (boulevard), - ro (road), or - gil (small street). While some buildings won’t be labeled, many will display a blue sign stating the street name (in Hangeul and English) and building number.

r Dining

GLOBAL INFLUENCES

While South Korea’s food scene was once fairly homogenous, in the past decade dining in Seoul has blossomed into a truly global affair. A unique blend of traditional and international flavors has elevated the food scene and produced an unexpected twist on traditional Korean flavors. The first Michelin Guide to Seoul was released in 2017, and since then more than 30 restaurants have received at least one Michelin star in the South Korean capital. The Michelin-starred options include French, Chinese, Japanese, and Thai fare, and mid-level restaurants offer everything from Italian and Greek to Mexican and Spanish cuisine. Many Korean chefs who studied their craft abroad have returned to Seoul to set up shop, often mixing their knowledge of foreign cuisine with Korean classics to create entirely new flavors. While international restaurants are sprinkled throughout the city, a high concentration of them can be found in the Itaewon district.

SPECIALTY RESTAURANTS

You may have been to your local Korea Town and think you know what to expect from Korean food in Seoul. Think again. Trying traditional Korean food at the source is a whole different story, where the recipes, ingredients, and cooking methods have been refined and passed down for hundreds of years. Whereas in Korean restaurants outside the country a smorgasbord of dishes is usually available, traditional restaurants in Korea often specialize in one dish. Some examples of these eateries include samgyetang (soup containing a whole young chicken stuffed with ginseng), jokbal (braised pig’s feet), or gopchang (grilled pork or cow intestines).

Most restaurants take credit cards, but some smaller places do not. It’s worth asking (or doing your research before you head out for a meal).

RESERVATIONS

From gourmet to fast-food to everything in between, Seoul has an amazing restaurant scene for foodies. The need to make reservations varies widely but as a rule of thumb, if dinner for two costs over ₩100,000, or if your party has four or more people, it’s best to make a reservation. Depending on the type of establishment, you may or may not be able to reach someone who speaks English. While major hotels and high-end restaurants often have an online reservation system, smaller, local restaurants may not. If you’re unsure, the best option is to call the magical 1330 Korea Travel Helpline. While the operator can’t make the reservation on your behalf, they can ask the business if reservations are necessary and if so, find out the best way to make them.

HOURS

Seoul restaurants generally serve food between 11 am and 10–11 pm. However, this varies wildly depending on which neighborhood you’re in, or if it’s a local or foreign restaurant. Korean barbecue or chicken restaurants are often late-night haunts open until 1 am or even 24 hours. Breakfast food is a whole different category in Seoul. There are separate breakfast and brunch restaurants which serve only those meals, but interestingly are often open from 9 am until 8 or 9 pm. Throughout the city, quick snacks can be found in the ubiquitous coffee shops or 24 hours a day in convenience stores.

PLANT-BASED EATING

Seoul is an extremely meat-centric city, but attitudes toward sustainability and plant-based food have been steadily changing over the past few years. What’s known in Korea as “temple food,” or the food eaten by monks and nuns at Buddhist temples, has always shunned the use of animal byproducts, and was once about all struggling vegetarian visitors could eat. While temple food restaurants are still an excellent option, multiple plant-based eateries are sprouting up all around the city and various fast-food joints also have vegan options.

TIPPING

Tipping is not customary in South Korea. That includes for food delivery people, bellhops, and waitstaff. You won’t see tip jars at coffee shops or a place to include a tip on a credit card receipt.

DINING PRICE RANGES

Restaurant prices are the average cost of a main course at dinner or, if dinner is not served, at lunch.

x Embassies and Consulates

The U.S. Embassy is located in Jongno-gu Seoul, and there’s also a U.S. Consulate in Busan. The British and Canadian embassies are located in Jung-gu, and Seoul also has various other European embassies, including British, French, and German.

z Health and Safety

COVID-19 has disrupted travel since March 2020, and travelers should expect sporadic ongoing issues in South Korea. Always travel with a mask in case it’s required, and keep up to date on the most recent testing and vaccination guidelines for Seoul.

Seoul is extremely safe, especially considering half the population of South Korea lives within the Seoul Capital Area. Its Confucian roots place high importance on respect, meaning rates of violent crime are far lower than its neighbors in the developed world.

What makes Seoul so safe? For starters, CCTV is everywhere, and we do mean everywhere. From intersections to train stations, to buses and subway cars, there’s barely a public moment in the whole city that’s not being recorded. Additionally, South Korea has some of the world’s strictest gun laws, meaning gun crime is virtually nonexistent, and Seoul has a large police force backed up by legions of young men enlisted in the country’s mandatory military service. There’s also a plethora of safety apps for women, such as Guardian Angel or Smart Back Home Safely, to ensure they get home safely late at night, plus the 1366 women’s hotline for those who feel unsafe in any situation.

The proximity to North Korea can be a worry for some when considering a visit to Seoul, but the ultra-protected border zone is manned by Korean and American soldiers, and a state-of-the-art missile detection system protects the border at all times.

The most common crimes in Seoul are still quite rare but include drunken brawls and petty theft. In fact, theft is still so rare that many Koreans regularly leave their bikes unlocked, or their phone or laptop on the table at busy cafes when they get up for a refill. The best rule of thumb is to use common sense as you would in any destination.

w Immunizations

All visitors to Seoul must have a valid proof of COVID-19 vaccination and/or a booster; while the need and frequency of boosters is still being discussed in the medical community, it’s important to verify the most recent requirements with your physician before you travel.

h Lodging

In a city as sprawling as Seoul it’s not surprising that there are hundreds of hotels to choose from in all corners of the city. Every district has a wide range of sleeping options for all budgets, whether it’s a luxurious five-star hotel with a club lounge and all the trimmings, or a bunk bed in a humble hostel. Two and three-star hotels are growing hip to a new generation of savvy travelers who don’t want to sacrifice on style, and thus trendy, design-forward hotels are becoming the norm.

LOCATION

Since nearly all hotel types and price ranges can be found in every district, choosing a location is all about deciding where you want to base your travels and which neighborhoods you want to explore most. Shopping enthusiasts may choose the dynamic Myeongdong neighborhood, history buffs Insadong or Bukchon Hanok Village, and sybarites the exclusive Jongno or Gangnam areas. Consider staying in up-and-and coming neighborhoods like Yeonnamdong and Ikseondong, which are less expensive than their more popular neighbors, Hongdae and Insadong, respectively, but still full of charm and easily walkable to more well-known destinations. Keep in mind that any high-rise hotel with views of the Han River will likely cost upwards of ₩400,000, but if views are your thing then it’s worth the won to see the reflections dancing on the river as the city lights up at dusk.

AMENITIES

In technologically advanced Seoul it’s pretty much a given that all modern hotels have free Wi-Fi, smart TVs, and plenty of USB charging points, and most also have minibars, tea and coffee, and safes. Older hotels or those set in the traditional hanok houses may have different amenities either out of respect for tradition or simply not keeping up with the times, so be sure to check before you book if a certain amenity is important to you. Seoul’s extreme summer temperatures with equally ferocious humidity means that you’re unlikely to find any accommodation at any price range that doesn’t have air-conditioning. Accessibility can be an issue in many older or historic hotels, which may lack ramps, rails, or elevators.

BATHROOMS

Bathrooms are something of an adventure in Seoul. Book any upmarket or chain hotel and you know you’ll get a traditional Western-style bathroom, though it may have a fancy toilet with a remote control to heat the seat, activate the bidet, or even flush and close the lid automatically when you stand up. Many toilets (in hotels and public spaces) feature something called an “etiquette bell,” which is a button you can push to play a tune or other white noise to distract from any unwanted sounds. Another bathroom feature common in Asian hotels with less than four or five stars are wet rooms. Wet rooms don’t have a separate shower area, so water splashes over the entire bathroom upon bathing. Plastic shower shoes are provided in many hotels in order to enter the bathroom dry-footed after showering.

BREAKFAST

Breakfast ranges wildly depending on where you stay. The four- and five-star hotels have massive buffets that feature Western and Korean breakfast options and provide such items as gluten-free bread, non-dairy milk, or other foods catering to special diets. Two and three-star hotels have more limited choices such as eggs and sausages, or a Korean rice dish with kimchi. Breakfast is generally not included in hotel rates, and per-person prices range from ₩10,000 to ₩60,000. On the lower end of the spectrum, guesthouses and hostels may offer free or inexpensive “bread service” of either toast or a packaged bread roll, or may not offer a breakfast option at all.

RESERVATIONS

Seoul is bursting with so many hotels it’s not necessary to make reservations in advance if you want to play it by ear. However, to ensure you get a hotel in the neighborhood you want at the price you want, especially during busy seasons such as spring and fall, it’s a good idea to make reservations in advance.

LOVE MOTELS

A hotel category of note in Seoul is the love motel. These quirky, garish hotels with hourly and overnight rates abound near bus and train stations, and in student or expat areas. Although these hotels have a bad reputation among Koreans as seedy establishments housing illicit love affairs, many foreign expats and tourists find them a funky and affordable alternative to traditional hotels.

PRICING

Prices are for a standard double room in high season.

1 Money

The South Korean won is the official currency. Paper notes are issued in denominations of ₩1,000, ₩5,000, ₩10,000, and ₩50,000 and feature the images of famous historic personages. There are a variety of coins, but anything smaller than a ₩100 or ₩500 coin is negligible. ATMs are prevalent throughout the city and most accept foreign cards. A subway ride costs approximately ₩1,350, and a sandwich or a latte would cost around ₩4,000 to ₩5,000 each.

n Nightlife

Whether your jam is a quiet cocktail to the tunes of smooth jazz or a rollicking nightclub blasting techno, Seoul is flush with more than 115,000 bars. Although South Korea has a well-developed drinking culture, it’s traditionally been beer, soju, and makgeolli that were imbibed by locals. It’s only in the past ten years or so that a widespread interest has developed in imported wines, craft beer, and classic cocktails, thus these beverages now abound in the city’s many watering holes.

HOTEL BARS

Hotel bars were once the most reliable place to find imported spirits and wines in Seoul. While those beverages are now widely available, the mystique of the hotel bar still draws a well-heeled, jet-setting clientele looking for that special ambiance—think the intimate, jewel-toned Charles H. speakeasy at the Four Seasons Seoul or the rustic-chic Timber House whiskey and vinyl bar at the Park Hyatt Seoul. Hotel bars are also an easy option, where the less adventurous can let their hair down by ordering a recognizable drink in English as opposed to exploring the unfamiliar.

LOCAL BARS

Popular Korean liquors soju and makgeolli were first created in the 13th century, and have been libations of choice in Seoul ever since. (Fun fact: the Korean brand Jinro soju is the world’s best-selling spirit.) Quaint hole-in-the-wall establishments known as minsokjujeomare traditional Korean bars similar to Japanese izakaya. Popular with an older crowd, these basic spots generally only serve beer, makgeolli, and soju, along with anju (drinking snacks which can range from nuts to dried squid to silkworm pupae). Note that minsokjujeom often don’t offer menus in English, but sometimes have a picture menu. A contemporary version of the minsokjujeom is the Hof—dark and greasy late-night joints which also feature beer, soju, and makgeolli, but with the important addition of fried chicken.

WINE AND COCKTAIL BARS

As international wine and spirits have gained traction in South Korea in recent years, the proliferation of wine and cocktail bars has exploded in Seoul. University students, young professionals, and travelers alike flock to these classy destinations in search of global wine and creative cocktails. Many of these venues feature sumptuous, Instagram-worthy surroundings and draw Seoul’s K-Pop glitterati. Be prepared to shell out upwards of ₩20,000 per drink.

FOREIGNER BARS

Mainly in Itaewon, Hongdae, Myeongdong, and Gangnam lie the many so-called foreigner bars. These often rowdy drinking establishments are frequented by the city’s many English teachers and American troops looking for a taste of the familiar, and feature late hours, Western comfort food, and drinking games.

NORAEBANG

The king of Korean nightlife is the noraebang (singing room). These fun-filled establishments are a perennial hoot, and feature private karaoke rooms with sofas and big screen TVs, and sometimes disco balls and musical instruments. All noraebangs have a songbook featuring thousands of popular hits in both English and Korean, and most offer snack and beverage service (usually only beer, soju, and soft drinks) for an extra fee. A chance at the microphone can range from ₩10,000 to ₩30,000 per hour depending on the level of glitz you prefer. As noraebang activity usually begins after midnight, it’s easy to get sucked into the singing, add extra hours, and not emerge until after sunrise.

CONVENIENCE STORES

A surprising mainstay on the nightlife scene are the city’s thousands of convenience stores. Open 24 hours, the purveyors of ultra-cheap beers and soju have wooden picnic benches or plastic tables and chairs on the sidewalk outside that can serve as an impromptu party spot into the wee hours.

CLUBS

Twenty-something Seoulites throng to the city’s famed dance clubs in Itaewon, Hongdae, and Gangnam, open mainly from Thursday through Sunday. These havens of techno, hip-hop, disco, and house music blast tunes until the sun comes up, and sometimes well into the morning hours. While most clubs are foreigner-friendly, there are some that reportedly deny entrance to non-Koreans for no apparent reason, although possibly due to having issues with disorderly conduct in the past. Expect a cover charge of between ₩10,000 and ₩30,000, which usually includes one drink.

LGBTQ+ NIGHTLIFE

While homosexual activity is legal in South Korea, same-sex marriages are banned and there are no laws against discrimination or hate crimes against LGBTQ+ people. Despite this climate, Seoul still has a handful of LGBTQ+ bars and nightclubs centered mainly in the Itaewon nightlife district.

GETTING HOME

Getting home after a night out is fairly simple and inexpensive in Seoul. The subway runs from 5:30 am to midnight, and there are also night buses (aka owl buses) on select routes from 11:30 pm to 6 am. If navigating public transportation after one too many shots of soju sounds like a terrible idea to you, try to grab one of the city’s thousands of taxis (it can sometimes be difficult in crowded nightlife areas or if it’s raining). Late-night prices are still reasonable, with a base fare of ₩3,800, plus a 20 percent surcharge added to the final fare for rides between midnight and 4 am.

u Passports and Visas

Visitors to South Korea must have a passport valid for at least six months from the date of entry, with at least one blank page. There are around 50 countries (including the U.S., U.K., France, and Germany) allowed visa-free tourist travel into the country for 90 days, but those visitors must apply for a Korea Electronic Travel Authorization (K-ETA) at least 72 hours before boarding a flight. The K-ETA costs ₩10,000 and expires two years from the date of authorization (although it’s valid for one-time use only).

p Performing Arts

For many years the performing arts scene in Seoul was limited to traditional music, theater, and dance. Dating back thousands of years, these ancient performances were often tied to religious practices and shamanic rituals. It’s only in recent years (as recently as the early 2000s) that contemporary or foreign performing arts such as opera and musicals began to emerge on the scene in any significant way. Multiple venues operate around the city featuring both indoor and open-air performance spaces, and prices range from free to ₩200,000 or more.

The South Korean Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism sponsors some of the city’s major theaters including Jeongdong Theater and The National Theater of Korea, both home to live performances of traditional Korean music and dance, with the latter also offering various arts education classes throughout the year. The Korea National Opera was formed in 2000, and performances range from favorites like Phantom to Korean language productions.

b Shopping

The rise of K-Pop, K-Beauty, and K-Fashion has led to a steep rise of consumerism in Seoul, with entire streets and neighborhoods dedicated solely to shopping. No matter where you are there’s always something to buy. Subway stations contain underground malls; department stores offer multiple stories of designer labels; and Seoul’s many outdoor markets are filled with vendors hawking socks, stationery, and souvenirs.

What should you buy and where should you buy it? Different shopping areas are known for different products. K-Beauty and fashion enthusiasts should head to Myeongdong where the streets are packed with shops selling mask sheets and the latest K-Pop clothing trends. Luxury lovers should pop to Gangnam where designer brands such as Hermès, Gucci, and Prada reside in independent boutiques or within upmarket department stores like Shinsegae or Hyundai. For trendy home goods, adorable paper products, or offbeat fashion labels, a good bet is Sinsadong, while those looking for traditional arts and crafts can check the charming boutiques in Insadong or Ikseondong.

Seoul’s vast marketplaces also deserve time on your itinerary. Namdaemun is the city’s oldest and largest market, with more than 10,000 vendors purveying clothing, household items, souvenirs, and street food. Dongdaemun market is open 24/7 and famed for fabric and clothing (including the traditional hanbok dress), as well as its lively night market. Street markets and flea markets are also popular, with many vintage, handmade, and secondhand goods from Korea and around the world. Some good ones are Dongmyo Flea Market, Seoul Folk Flea Market, and Hongdae Free Market.

1 Taxes

The standard sales tax rate in South Korea is 10 percent, though it’s not applicable to everything. For example, many groceries are not taxed, but taxes are applied to restaurant meals above a certain amount, processed foods, luxury items, and hotels. Service providers such as salons and businesses also charge the 10 percent tax, but it’s not always clear whether it’s already been included in the quoted price or not.

Foreign tourists in Korea can take advantage of the duty free or tax free shopping opportunities. There are various duty free stores throughout the country, including in the major department stores, while tax free shopping can be done at any store that has advertised as “Tax Free.” To qualify for the tax free refund, you must have bought more than ₩30,000 and less than ₩5,000,000 of goods in the same store on the same day, and have stayed less than six months in Korea at the time of purchase. For items between ₩30,000 and less than ₩500,000, some retailers can provide an immediate refund. For all others, be sure to save your receipts then claim your refund at one of the country’s major airports upon departure from South Korea.

y Tipping

Tipping is not customary in South Korea. That means there’s no need to tip taxi drivers, food delivery people, bellhops, or waitstaff. You won’t see tip jars at coffee shops or see a place to include a tip on a credit card receipt, as South Koreans believe good service should be the norm without extra incentive. In fact, tipping can be seen as rude or disrespectful, as it implies the server looks as if they need the money.

i Visitor Information

There are 14 Tourist Information Centers set in the major tourist areas of Seoul including Gwanghwamun, City Hall, and Myeongdong, and at both the city’s airports. Services are mainly offered in English, Chinese, and Japanese. These centers can provide printed guides and maps, and information about performances, transportation, accommodation, and restaurant reservations. You can also call the 1330 Korea Travel Helpline, a free 24-hour tourist hotline and translation service run by the Korea Tourism Organization. From a foreign phone, dial +82-2-1330, from a Korean line use 02-1330.

c When to Go

Seasons in Seoul are clearly defined, with freezing winters, steamy summers, and temperate springs and falls. The best times to visit are April through June and September and October. Not only is the weather at its most comfortable for walking around, but spring cherry blossoms and fall foliage fill the city with magnificent colors. These goldilocks windows are also when many of Seoul’s major festivals and holidays take place, making airfare, hotels, and train travel during these months more expensive than the rest of the year. If you do visit in winter or summer, know that all public transportation is air-conditioned and heated respectively, as are nearly all shops, restaurants, and hotels. Summer is also the rainy season, with typhoons regularly blowing in from the east.

Low Season: December to February, and July and August Shoulder Season: November and March High Season: April to June, plus September and October

Best Tours

BUS TOURS

Seoul City Tour Bus. Many cities around the world feature the ubiquitous red buses whisking tourists to the area’s most popular tourist attractions, and Seoul is no exception. The Seoul City Tour Bus offers four routes to choose from, which include stops such as Myeongdong, N Seoul Tower, and Gyeongbokgung Palace. Buses (some open-top) reach each stop approximately every 30 minutes for hop on and off ease, offer audio guides in 12 languages, and cost ₩20,000 per person. ETaepyeong-ro 1-ga, Jung-gu P2–777–6090 wwww.seoulcitybus.com/main.do A₩20,000 mCity Hall Station.

Transit Tours. For passengers transiting through Seoul en route to other countries, Incheon Airport offers sightseeing tours for tourists who have layovers of a duration of fewer than 24 hours. Ranging from 1 to 5 hours, the English-speaking tours include shopping and lifestyle excursions, or cultural immersion into palaces and temples. While the tours themselves are free, any meals or tourist site admission fees are payable by individual participants. Tours can be booked online in advance or upon arrival if there are seats still available. EIncheon International Airport, 272 Gonghang-ro, Jung-gu jTerminal 1: 1F Main desk near exit 8; Terminal 2: 1F Main desk near exit 3 P32–741–3139 wwww.airport.kr/ap_cnt/en/trn/tour/trtour/trtour.do AFree.

FOOD TOURS

Seoul Eats Food Tour. Seoul may be legendary for its street food, but first-time visitors often find themselves overwhelmed with culture shock and guiltily head for the nearest fast food joint. Instead of scarfing a Big Mac out of desperation on your first day, dive into the food scene head-on with a tour by Seoul Eats. Run by Korean cuisine expert Daniel Gray, these bespoke tours focus on local chefs, artisan products, and traditional markets. The three- to five-hour tours cost between ₩100,000 and ₩240,000 per person depending on whether it’s a group or private tour, and participants will leave with not only a full stomach but also a working knowledge of Korean street food and culture. Private tours can accommodate special dietary needs or take food requests. ESeoul wwww.seouleats.com AFrom ₩100,000.

SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS

DMZ Tour. Since the armistice between North and South Korea was agreed upon in 1953, the two Koreas have been separated by a land border known as the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). On what is perhaps one of the world’s strangest sightseeing trips, DMZ tour participants visit the most heavily militarized border in the world and what is essentially an active war zone. Visitors glimpse into North Korea from binoculars at the Dora Observatory, technically step into North Korea at the Panmunjom Joint Security Area where the armistice was signed, and plunge into the depths of the Third Infiltration tunnel which was built by North Korea to initiate a planned (but never executed) surprise attack on Seoul. Tours range from half-day to full-day, cost between ₩60,000 and ₩160,000 per person, and visit one or more of the most popular DMZ attractions. ELotte Castle President, 109 Mapodaero, Mapo-gu, Seoul P02/757–1009 wwww.dmztours.com AFrom ₩60,000 COffice closed Sun.

WALKING TOURS

Dark Side of Seoul Ghost Walk. Seoul isn’t all fashionable boutiques and bubbly K-Pop music; there’s a dark side just below the surface if you know where to look. Enter the Dark Side of Seoul Ghost Walk. This spooky walking tour takes guests on a ghoulish foray into some of the city’s most haunted locales, including Namdaemun Gate and Gyeonghuigung Palace, and tells twisted tales of true crime, ghostly happenings, and history’s more sinister side. The 1.5-hour tours commence after sunset (8 pm) from from Anguk Station on Saturday and Sunday or Seodaemun Station from Tuesday to Friday and cost ₩45,000 per person. The walk takes about an hour and a half to complete. EAnguk Station, Jongno-gu wwww.darksideofseoul.com A₩45,000.

Seoul Guided Walking Tour. Volunteer guides from Seoul’s tourism organization lead free walking tours in English from several points of interest. There are multiple two-hour tours to choose from that stop at top sights like the Gyeongbokgung Palace, the Changdeokgung Palace, and Bukchon Hanok Village. During the week, the tours leave at 10 am and 2 pm; during the weekend, they leave at 10 am, 2 pm, and 3 pm. The meeting point varies based on the tour booked. E6F, 85, Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu P02–6925–0777 wenglish.visitseoul.net/walking-tour AFree xReservations must be made three days in advance online.

Great Itineraries

Seoul in 3, 5, or 7 Days

The sheer size of Seoul can make it feel overwhelming, but the city is surprisingly navigable whether you have one day or seven. If you’re transiting through Incheon International Airport with a layover between five and 24 hours, the airport offers free city tours to Seoul’s most famous tourist attractions such as Gyeongbokgung Palace and the Myeongdong shopping district.

SEOUL IN 3 DAYS

DAY ONE: TIME TRAVEL

There’s no better place to begin your Seoul experience than at Gyeongbokgung Palace, the grandest of Seoul’s palaces. Take Seoul Subway Line 3 to the Gyeongbokgung stop then walk a few minutes to Gwanghwamun Junction. Watch the Changing of the Royal Guard Ceremony (10 am and 2 pm, closed Tuesday) at the towering Gwanghwamun Gate. Travel back in time as you stroll the tranquil palace grounds as people dressed in traditional hanboks meander past. (Renting these historic costumes is a popular pastime.) Within the palace grounds lies The National Palace Museum of Korea (free with palace entry), where you’ll see artifacts from the Joseon Dynasty (1392 to 1897).

Exploring historic royal palaces is hungry work. Fortunately, it’s only about 15 minutes walk to the heart of Insa-dong, one of Seoul’s most historic neighborhoods. Browse the area’s quaint houses, galleries, and craft boutiques (this is a good place to pick up souvenirs such as pottery, fans, or handmade paper). After shopping, take a rest at the Beautiful Tea Museum (free) which is set in an elegant hanok house.

A short walk north will take you to Bukchon Hanok Village. Filled with more than 900 historic houses, this neighborhood is a favorite filming locale for period dramas and simply soaking in antiquity at the many charming cafes, craft workshops, and small museums such as the Bukchon Asian Cultural Art Museum (entrance ₩5,000, closed Monday).

DAY TWO: SCENERY AND STREET FOOD

Take subway Line 4 from Seoul Station and exit at Hoehyeon Station to start the day at Namdaemun Market, Seoul’s oldest and largest market dating back to the 15th century. Famed for its food alleys, it’s where you can fill up on mandu (dumplings), hotteok (filled pancakes), and tteokbokki (stir-fried rice cakes) before taking the short walk to Sungnyemun Gate, a Korean National Treasure and one of the eight gates of the storied Hanyangdoseong (Fortress Wall of Seoul). Head south into Namsan Mountain Park for a 3-hour hike to the top, or ride the Namsan Cable Car (round-trip ₩13,000)—both methods of ascent lead to iconic N Seoul Tower and its panoramic observatory and revolving French restaurant N Grill.

DAY THREE: SERIOUS SHOPPING

For some serious shopping begin your day at Myeongdong Station on subway Line 4. Take Exit 6 to begin wandering the pedestrianized streets of Myeongdong, filled to the brim with cosmetics stores, fashion boutiques, and trendy coffee shops. Grab a quick bite at Myeongdong Gyoja, famed for kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup) and steamed mandu (dumplings).

After the chaotic frenzy of Myeongdong, ride the 9301 bus across from Lotte Department Store two stops to visit Cheonggyecheon Stream. This peaceful waterway wends 11 km (7 miles) through central Seoul and is lined with walking paths and waterfalls. Amble west along the water towards Sejong-daero, then turn left to reach Seoul Plaza. This vast open space fronts Seoul City Hall.

Cross the street to peek behind the stone walls into Deoksugung Palace, the smallest of Seoul’s five royal palaces, before continuing to Jeongdong Theater. Home to live performances of traditional Korean music and dance, this intimate 326-seat hall offers near-daily evening performances (closed Monday).

SEOUL IN 5 DAYS

Many of the most notable and popular sights to see in Seoul are listed on days one to three. If you have more time, spend the first three days as outlined above and then add days four through seven.

DAY FOUR: MUSEUM HOP

Begin by taking subway Line 4 to Ichon Station and use Exit 2 to reach the National Museum of Korea (entry is free, fee for special exhibitions). Set in a vast, contemporary structure within Yongsan Park, this massive museum houses over 15,000 items dating from prehistory to modern. Also in Yongsan Park is the smaller National Hangeul Museum, which is worth a visit for those interested in learning how the Korean alphabet was formed. Cross the street outside the park entrance and hop on the 400 bus for 22 minutes to continue the museum crawl at the Leeum Samsung Museum of Art, which features the private collection of the former president of the Samsung Group.

Museum hopping is draining, so fuel up in the international district of Itaewon. Walk or hop on the Subway Line 9 at Hangangjin Station to Itaewon’s main drag for Indian, Mexican, and other global eats before finishing the day at Dragon Hill Spa—a traditional bathhouse offering ice and salt rooms, multiple saunas, and hot and cold dipping pools.

DAY FIVE: GANGNAM STYLE

Cross south over the Han River to spend the day in Seoul’s most expensive neighborhood, Gangnam, the area that K-Pop singer Psy immortalized in song. Take subway Line 3 to Sinsa Station and meander the trendy cafes and boutiques in the ginkgo tree-lined Sinsadong Garosu-gil area. For designer labels head north to Apgujeong Rodeo Street, or for bargains make your way either by foot or the 143 bus south to Starfield COEX Mall—the largest underground mall in Asia. For a touch of tranquility cross Bongeunsa-ro street to visit the 8th-century Bongeunsa temple, and take a few snaps of the stunning 23-meter-tall (75-foot) Buddha statue. If you haven’t dropped from all that shopping, board a Han River Cruise to bask in the cityscape at sunset.

SEOUL IN 7 DAYS

DAY SIX: TAKE A HIKE

Break out your hiking boots and take a day trip to Bukhansan National Park—the world’s most visited national park per unit area. From Seoul Station take subway Line 4 to Gireum Station, followed by bus 110B which takes you to Jeongneung Visitor Center. Choose from the many easy trails or go all-in with a trek to Baegundae Peak for splendid city views. To see the largest seated Buddha statue in East Asia, follow the signs to Gungyeonsa Temple.

DAY SEVEN: HEAD NORTH

On day seven, head to Seoul Station to take the DMZ Peace Train (closed Monday and Tuesday) 46 km (29 miles) to explore the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) on the border with North Korea. The day-long (10:15 am to 5:47 pm) Dorasan Security Tour is a rather unorthodox attraction that takes you to the Third Infiltration Tunnel and Dora Observatory, where you can peek into North Korea.

Beyond Seoul

While foreign tourism is growing rapidly in South Korea, many visitors never leave the capital. If you have the time after scratching the surface of Seoul, head to Seoul Station and jump on a KTX high-speed train to explore some of South Korea’s lesser-known but equally fascinating regions. Those who deviate from the traditional tourist trail will not be disappointed—from white-sand beaches to historic burial grounds, there’s a whole lot more to explore in South Korea.

Fly in: Seoul

Fly out: Jeju (connecting through Seoul or Busan)

DAY 1: SUWON

Begin by hopping on the KTX high-speed train at Seoul Station and exit in Suwon, South Korea’s 7th largest city, 25 minutes later. Head straight to Hwaseong Fortress, an 18th-century UNESCO World Heritage site built by King Jeongjo to surround the tomb of his father. Walk the 6 km (3 ½ mile) long fortress wall and admire the east-meets-west design.

An hour outside of Suwon lies Everland, Korea’s largest theme park. Spend the afternoon riding the coasters or exploring the zoo. If you’re visiting during one of Korea’s sultry summers, hit up Caribbean Bay water park instead.

DAY 2: DAEGU

From Suwon Station, it’s about a 2-hour KTX ride to reach Dongdaegu Transportation Hub where you’ll start your day in Daegu. Start at Shinsegae Daegu, a behemoth department store connected to the train station.

Next, cross the street in front of Dongdaegu Station Square to catch the 937 bus for a 57-minute ride to Daegu Stadium. Originally a venue for the 2002 FIFA World Cup, it now houses the Daegu Sports Museum (closed Monday) which features memorabilia from sporting events held in the stadium. (Alternatively, stay in the city and soak up history at Daegu National Museum or spend a day riding roller coasters at E-World).

Take bus 609 back towards downtown and head toward Apsan mountain. Situated relatively close to the city, it’s worth the trip to ride the Apsan Cable Car with its panoramic views of downtown Daegu and the surrounding countryside (especially in the spring or fall when you can see either fiery leaves or cherry blossoms, respectively).

Finally, head back downtown then make your way to Anjirang Gopchang Street (most easily done from Dongdaegu Transportation Hub on subway Line 1 to Anjirang Station, then take Exit 3, and walk 3 minutes to the street entrance). Grab a plastic street-side table at any of the lively restaurants to experience gopchang (grilled pig and cow intestines)—Daegu’s signature dish. Finish the night at one of the city’s many late-night bars.

DAY 3: GYEONGJU

Time travel on Day 3 with a trip to Korea’s ancient Silla Kingdom capital of Gyeongju. Grab a 1-hour intercity bus (₩6,500) from Dongdaegu Transportation Hub to Gyeongju Express Bus Terminal and follow the signs to the nearby Daereungwon Tomb Complex. Featuring burial mounds standing over 12 meters (40 feet) tall, this otherworldly cemetery is the final resting place of ancient royalty.

Next, marvel at Cheomseongdae, a 7th-century astronomical observatory, before continuing by foot to the picturesque Silla-era Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond. Continue your walk to the Gyeongju National Museum, where thousands of Silla period artifacts are on display.

Rest your feet on the 1-hour bus ride (number 11, ₩1,700) south to Bulguksa Temple, a 6th-century Buddhist temple that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a beloved cultural treasure. Once you’ve fully absorbed the history, either take bus 12 or the 4 km (2 ½ mile) hike up Tohamsan Mountain to Seokguram Grotto, a hermitage containing an 8th-century stone Buddha statue.

DAY 4: BUSAN

Re-enter the modern world as you board the KTX train from Singyeongju Station to Busan Station (trains depart almost every hour and the ride is only 30 minutes). Take the hour-long bus 1001 (₩1,300) to the famed Haeundae Beach, then park yourself on the white sand.

After you’ve caught some rays, marvel at more than 10,000 sea animals inside SEA LIFE Busan Aquarium before hopping back on the 1001 bus for an hour-long ride to Haedong Yonggungsa Temple. Set amid the rocky outcroppings along the East Sea, this 14th-century temple can be reached by an arched stone bridge.

Head back to Haeundae Beach to spend the night, as it’s got a rollicking nightlife scene and dozens of affordable hotels.

DAY 5: BUSAN

Start Day 5 at Haeundae Station where you’ll take subway Line 2 to Seonyeon Station, then change to Line 1 and get off at Toseong Station. Leave through Exit 6 and follow the signs to Gamcheon Culture Village, a colorful collection of hillside houses known for eclectic street art. Head down the mountain for lunch at BIFF Square, a vibrant street-food market and the main venue for the Busan International Film Festival.

After catching the latest K-Drama flick, walk south for dinner at Jalgachi Fish Market (open until 8 pm). Stroll the aisles to see fresh catches of abalone and eel, or choose your meal from the tanks at one of the many on-site restaurants.

DAY 6: JEJU

Catch an early 291-km (181-mile) flight from Gimhae International Airport to Jeju International Airport to visit Jeju Island, a semi-tropical isle considered by many to be the “Hawaii of South Korea.”

Jeju is best navigated by car, so rent your wheels and drive 1½ hours to Manjanggul Cave. This UNESCO site consists of one of the world’s largest lava tubes, stretching into the blackness for 8 km (5 miles).

Hop back in the car to drive a further 1½ hours to Seongsan IlchulBong Peak (be sure to stop at popular Woljeongri Beach for a paddle along the way). This 100,000-year-old volcanic crater features sensational sea and countryside views from the scenic walk along the rim.

Finally, take the coastal road to the southern city of Seogwipo and arrive just in time to sample Jeju’s specialty—black pork barbecue—for dinner.

DAY 7: JEJU

Wake up early to see Seogwipo’s two famous waterfalls before the crowds do. Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls in Seogwipo Chilsipnisi Park plunge 22 meters (72 feet) into a cerulean pool below, while similarly sized Jeongbang Waterfall cascades from a seaside cliff (both open at 9 am).

Continue your circumnavigation of the island by stopping at some of Jeju’s famed beaches, such as Hamdeok Beach or white-sand Geumneung Beach, before heading to the airport for your flight back to Busan or Seoul.

Helpful Phrases in Korean

On the Calendar

February

Seollal (Lunar New Year). This three-day national holiday is one of the two biggest in South Korea, taking place in January or February each year depending on the Lunar calendar. Traditional performances and activities unfold at the major royal palaces and traditional villages in the city, and admission is free during this time.

March

The Seoul International Marathon. Asia’s oldest marathon is The Seoul International Marathon, which has taken place each year since 1931. Starting at Gwanghwamun Palace, the race winds through the city, crosses the Han River, and finishes at Seoul Olympic Stadium.

April

Yeouido Spring Flower Festival. One of the most beautiful events in Seoul is this flower festival, a blooming celebration consisting of activities and performances under the canopy of blush-pink cherry trees. wenglish.visitkorea.or.kr

Lotus Lantern Festival (Yeon Deung Hoe). Seoul’s oldest event may well be the 1,300-year-old celebration of Buddha’s birthday known as the Lotus Lantern Festival (Yeon Deung Hoe). Seoulites honor the deity with a vibrant parade through the city center each April or May (Buddha’s birthday falls on different days each year, depending on the Chinese lunar calendar). wenglish.visitkorea.or.kr

May

Jongmyo Daeje. Confucianism means that honoring one’s ancestors is an important ritual, and the celebration of Jongmyo Daeje does just that. Each May, costumes, parades, and traditional performances honor Korea’s royal ancestors. wwww.jongno.go.kr

June

Dano. Another of Korea’s major holidays, Dano was traditionally a celebration following the end of the seed sowing season. It’s now observed each June with traditional costumes, dance, and rituals at the National Folk Museum of Korea. wenglish.visitseoul.net/events

Seoul Queer Culture Festival. The LGBTQ+ community is celebrated with a week of parades, equal rights activism, and parties, usually in June but sometimes in July. wwww.sqcf.org

August

Seoul Fringe Festival. Unconventional, indie artists take the stage at this performing arts festival near Hongdae. weng.seoulfringefestival.net

September

Seoul International Film Festival. K-Drama is big business—most recently, the Korean movie Parasite recently won Best Picture at the 92nd Academy Awards. Seoul’s thriving film industry is on display at the Seoul International Film Festival, where many budding filmmakers debut their work.

Chuseok (Harvest Moon Festival). Chuseok, like a Korean Thanksgiving, is a three-day holiday when families gather to eat and make offerings to their ancestors. One of the two biggest holidays in South Korea, it takes place in September or October each year depending on the Lunar calendar. Traditional performances and activities take place at the major royal palaces in the city, and admission is free during this time, though other businesses may be closed.

Sajik Daeje. Translating to “Great Rite for the Land and Grain Gods,” this cultural festival held the third Sunday of September first started in the Joseon Dynasty-era to honor the grain and land gods. Traditional dress is worn during ancestral rituals and ceremonies that include food, dance, and a procession from Deoksugung Palace.

October

The Seoul International Fireworks Festival. One of the country’s largest festivals is The Hanwha Seoul International Fireworks Festival. Each October over one million people flock to Han River Park to watch the sky over the capital explode with color. wenglish.visitkorea.or.kr

Asia Song Festival. This annual K-Pop and Asian music festival features live performances from top contemporary artists, so it’s a good place to check out the music scene.

November

Seoul Kimchi Festival. The fermented cabbage dish known as kimchi is a national staple, so it’s no surprise there’s an entire festival to celebrate it. Participants can learn to make this Korean comfort food at the Seoul Kimchi Festival. wwww.seoulkimchifestival.kr

The Seoul Lantern Festival. Thousands of colorful lanterns line Cheonggyecheon Stream in central Seoul’s Jongno-gu district during this captivating festival. wenglish.visitseoul.net/seoullantern

Contacts
d Air

CONTACTS Gimpo International Airport (GMP). E112 Haneul-gil, Gonghang-dong, Gangseo-gu, Seoul P1661–2626 wwww.airport.co.kr/gimpoeng/index.do. Incheon International Airport (ICN). E272 Gonghang-ro, Jung-gu P1577–2600 wwww.airport.kr/ap/en/index.do. Gimhae International Airport (PUS). E108 Gonghangjinim-ro, Daejeo-dong, Gangseo-gu P051/1661–2626 wwww.airport.co.kr/gimhaeeng.

j Bus

CONTACTS Seoul Incheon Limousine Airport Bus. EIncheon International Airport, 272 Gonghang-ro, Jung-gu jTerminal 1: First level, A to F (1–14 gates); Terminal 2: First level, 1 to 6 gates. B1 level (Traffic Center). wwww.seoul-airport.com/bus.php. Seoul City and Regional Buses. ESeoul wenglish.seoul.go.kr/service/movement/public-transportation/1-bus.

k Car

RENTALS Hertz. EIncheon International Airport, 2851 Unseo-dong, Passenger Terminal 1st fl. East Side, Jung-gu P32–743–8000 whertz.com. Avis. EGimpo International Aiport, 150 Gimpo Airport, 1st fl., Seoul P22–666–1121 wavis.com. SK Rent-a-Car. E121 Samseong 1(il)-dong, Seoul P02–6247–0136 wblog.naver.com/okskrent.

5 Metro

CONTACTS Seoul Metropolitan Subway. wwww.seoulmetro.co.kr/kr/index.do.

6 Taxi

ENGLISH-SPEAKING TAXI SERVICE International Taxi. E2621 Nambusunhwan-ro, Gangnam-gu P2–1644–2255 wwww.intltaxi.co.kr/en/reservation/book.

q Train

CONTACTS KTX Trains. ESeoul wwww.ktxtrains.com. Seoul Station. E2 Sejong-daero 18-gil, Sogong-dong, Jung-gu.

x U.S. Embassy and Consulate

CONTACTS U.S. Embassy Seoul. E188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu P2–397–4114 wkr.usembassy.gov. U.S. Consulate Busan. ELotte Gold Rose, 993 Jungang-daero, Room 612, Busanjin-gu P2–397–4114 wkr.usembassy.gov.

v Visas

CONTACTS Korea Electronic Travel Authorization (K-ETA). wk-eta.go.kr.

i Visitor Information

CONTACTS Korean Tourism Organization Travel Helpline. P2–1330.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTERS Gwanghwamun Tourist Information Center. E215 Sejongno 1-ga, in front of Donghwa Duty Free, Jongno-gu P2–735–8688. Myeongdong Tourist Information Center. E181 Euljiro 2-ga, Jung-gu P2–778–0333. Itaewon Tourist Information Center. E177 Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P2–3785–0942. Gangnam Tourist Information Center. E161 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu P2–3445–0111 mApgujeong Station (2-min walk from Exit 6). Seoul City Hall Tourist Information Center. ESeoul City Hall, 110 Sejongdae-ro, Basement Fl, Jung-gu P2–739–7755.

WEB RESOURCES Visit Seoul. wenglish.visitseoul.net/index. Visit Korea. wenglish.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/index.kto.

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

TOP EXPERIENCES

Go back in time: Explore Seoul’s five grand palaces as you don a rented hanbok, or stroll through Bukchon Hanok Village to see architecture of old.

Check out the art: Be it photography or contemporary and traditional art, the area has dozens of museums and galleries.

Sip tea: Insa-dong’s streets are lined with shops and eateries, teahouses, and cafes.

See the Broadway of Seoul: Hyehwa-dong is the theater district and also home to parks and murals.

Get outside: Chill by the urban promenade of the Cheonggyecheon Stream, or hike in Bukhansan.

GETTING HERE

Jongno-gu is a large district with many neighborhoods: Gwanghwamun is located on the northern end of downtown Seoul with Insa-dong and the Bukchon Village to its east. Directly east of that is Hyehwa-dong. Those coming from Incheon International Airport can transfer from the express airport railroad at Gongdeok Station to line 5 for Gwanghwamun Station or take an express bus; access Hyehwa Station for Hyehwa-dong. The area is well-connected to the rest of the city via Line 5 and Line 3 and nearly every bus from Seoul and the surrounding suburbs makes a stop at Gwanghwamun. However, walking is also a great way to explore the area. Those traveling via taxi should note roads can be blocked for protests and festivals, which can happen weekly.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

The area is packed with hundreds of historical landmarks, the city’s best Korean restaurants, and dozens of neighborhoods to explore. Set aside a few days for this district if you can. Start early in the day, making room in your schedule to get wonderfully lost in one of the many back alleys, and plan for a tea or coffee break in the afternoon. Tourists and office workers in the area flock to restaurants and cafes at noon and 6 pm; lines for both can get long, so plan ahead.

VIEWFINDER

The National Museum of Korean Contemporary History. Photographers of all levels can be seen on the roof of this museum, and it’s not because of the institution’s photos and documents. The building directly faces Gyeongbokgung Palace, and from the rooftop garden on the 8th floor, you can get a panoramic view of the Palace grounds. The museum is free, so simply enter the museum located at exit 2 of Gwanghwamun Station and mosey on up with your camera. E198 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu www.much.go.kr/en/mainen.do Gwanghwamun Station.

PAUSE HERE

Tteuran Tea House. Of the many traditional tea houses in the neighborhood, this is the institution worth seeking out. Teas and sweet Korean treats can be enjoyed in the garden. E17-35, Supyo-ro 28-gil, Jongno-gu www.instagram.com/cafe_innergarden Jongno 3-ga Station.

A grand palace in the center of the city. High school students dressed in bright hanbok walking past businesspeople in stiff suits. Streets of tall, modern office buildings hiding tiled-roof houses dating from the Joseon Dynasty. The sight-rich Jongno-gu district reminds you of its centuries-long history at every turn, especially apparent as it joins the city’s contemporary architecture and museums. Ask any Seoulite: If you had to limit yourself to one area, this part of the city would be the one to see.

The historic Jongno-gu district is made of several powerhouse neighborhoods, including Gwanghwamun, Insa-dong, and the Bukchon Hanok Village. The Gwanghwamun area is home to Seoul’s five grand palaces and is literally the main gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace, a relic originally built in 1395. Gwanghwamun Square, the plaza facing the gate, has been the site of landmark protests, namely, the Candlelight Demonstrations of 2016 that led to the impeachment of former President Park Geun-hye.

Filled with embassies, traditional architecture, and grand museums, there is a refined air to Gwanghwamun. Walk into a nicer restaurant at lunch, and it’s not uncommon to see diplomats dining with a foreign ambassador or a group of elegantly dressed ladies catching up over a cup of tea. While it can feel intimidating at times, you’ll find the neighborhood is much more accessible than you imagined. Many traditional sights are free or cost little to visit and there are pockets of interesting, down-to-earth places to see.

When planning out your trip, be careful not to overload your days by only hopping from one attraction to the next. If your time is limited, see Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung Palaces as they’re the largest and most beautiful, respectively. Take your pick of museums: visit the Seoul Museum of History if you’re a devotee of all things past, and the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art if you’re an aesthete.

Block out good chunks of your day for neighborhood exploration. Learn about traditional Korean architecture at the Bukchon Hanok Village but don’t limit yourself to the sights of Bukchon hanoks exclusively. Head over to Ikseon-dong, a maze of hanoks that date back to the 1920s, for a lively atmosphere of trendy pubs and restaurants. For great meals and an elegant glass of wine, wander around Seochon, a village west of the gate. And to feel like you have a slice of downtown Seoul all to yourself, walk along Wonseo-dong, a long, winding street with boutique shops and quiet cafes. Finally, leave time to explore Hyehwa-dong, Seoul’s theater district.

Gwanghwamun and Around

Seoul’s top attractions, including some of its most impressive palaces and history museums, are located in this central neighborhood. Lined with grand avenues, it’s anchored by the Gyeongbokgung Palace and surrounded by authentic Korean restaurants as well as the luxurious Four Seasons. Come here for a day filled with culture and history, and perhaps to rent hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) and become immersed in the moment.

s Sights

Bukhansan National Park

MOUNTAIN | Only a short subway ride from central Seoul, Bukhansan is both the tallest and most beautiful of the city’s many easily accessible mountains. The mountain and the surrounding 30-square-mile Bukhansan National Park is an ecological island in the city. In addition to fresh air, views of the city, and more than 1,300 species of plants and animals, Bukhansan is home to numerous historical and cultural sights. Of note are the Bukhansanseong Fortress and more than 100 temples scattered throughout the area. Hikers looking for solitude, however, are in for a disappointment. It is full of other hikers year-round and is listed in Guinness Book of World Records as the “Most Visited National Park per Unit Area.”ESan 1–1 Jeongneung-dong, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul P02/909–0497 wbukhan.knps.or.kr AFree.

Cheonggyecheon Stream

PROMENADE | Running east–west through the city, this path-lined stream is one of the best places in Seoul to go for a stroll, especially in summer when it’s a cool respite from the heat. Simple scenes of folks taking a break from Seoul’s hectic pace play out daily: couples walk hand in hand; students gather; and businesspeople relax on the steps during their lunch break. A good place to start exploring is Cheonggye Plaza at the west end of the stream with its striking Claes Oldenburg pop-art sculpture, Spring. Every November, the Seoul Lantern Festival is hosted here, during which hundreds of delicate lanterns light up the waters. ECheonggyecheon-ro, Sinseol-dong, Jongno-gu P02/2290–7111 wwww.sisul.or.kr/grobal/cheonggye/eng/WebContent/index.html AFree mGwanghwamun Station.

Cheongun Literature Library

LIBRARY | Although the Starfield Library in Gangnam’s COEX Mall is likely Seoul’s most famous, the Cheongun Literature Library a short bus ride away from Gyeongbokgung Station is hands down its most beautiful. The library is spread over two levels: the lower level houses approximately 20,000 books in a conventional library setting, and the ground floor consists of two units of a hanok. The hanok’s bonchae (main building) has several rooms with Korean floor-style seating for those looking to read or study in private and a one-room nujeong (annex) open to the public. While visitors cannot check out books, the library’s unique design and nearby Cheongun Park make the trip worthwhile. E40, Jahamun-ro 36-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P070/4680–4032 AFree CClosed Mon. mGyeongbokgung Station.

Cheong Wa Dae (Blue House)

GOVERNMENT BUILDING | You may know the White House, but do you know the Blue House? Officially known as Cheong Wa Dae, meaning “pavilion of blue tiles,” this striking former residence of the president in the Jongno-gu district was built on the site of a royal garden, dating from 1104. It’s beautifully backdropped by Bugaksan, one of the city’s most popular hiking mountains, the top of which makes for an excellent vantage point to observe Cheong Wa Dae, Gyeongbokgung Palace, and the entire city beyond. Free history tours are offered year-round in Korean only, but there’s an English audio option—be sure to book at least three weeks ahead of time. E1 Cheongwadae-ro, Jongno-gu P02/730–5800 wwww.president.go.kr AFree mGyeongbokgung Station.

Daelim Museum

ART MUSEUM | Contemporary art, and especially photography, is the focus of this small but special museum near Gyeongbukgung Palace. Its colorful galleries are the reason you come, but be sure to admire the exterior, a modernist cube comprised of stained glass panels. From the balcony, you can spot Inwansan and Bukhansan mountains in the distance. E21 Jahamun-ro 4-gil, Jongno-gu P02/720–0667 wwww.daelimmuseum.org A₩8,000 CClosed Mon. mGyeongbokgung Station.

Gwanghwamun Square

PLAZA/SQUARE | The large public square facing Gyeongbokgung Palace has long been a historical center of Seoul. After a renovation, the square doubled in size in 2022. Leafy trees, water fountains, and more pedestrian walkways now line the plaza, making this a sensible starting point for (or respite during) your adventures of the neighborhood. While here, admire its recently restored platform, once a stand for kings to communicate with the people that was later destroyed during Japanese occupation, plus two iconic statues, one of King Sejong and another of Admiral Yi Sunshin. The U.S. Embassy is across from the square. E172 Sejong-daero, Sejongno, Jongno-gu wgwanghwamun.seoul.go.kr mGwanghwamun Station.

HGyeongbokgung Palace

CASTLE/PALACE | The oldest and most famous of Seoul’s palaces, Gyeongbokgung means “Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven.” Built in 1395, it served as the main seat of government throughout much of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910). Destroyed in 1592, the palace was unused for nearly 270 years as the government moved its seat to Changdeokgung. In 1867 the palace was rebuilt on a grand scale, with 5,792 rooms in over 330 building in the sprawling complex which again becoming a self-functioning city within a city. Unfortunately all but ten buildings of this majestic complex were destroyed during the Japanese occupation in the first part of the 20th century. Adding insult to injury, the colonial powers built the Japanese Government General building directly in front of Gyeongbokgung’s throne hall. Restoration of the palace began again in 1990, and though no longer the seat of government, the palace has been restored to some of its former glory. A must-see for anyone interested in history and architecture, Gyeongbokgung is the most visited tourist sight in Korea so crowds can be dense, especially in the warmer months and on weekends. TIP → At the palace gate, Gwanghwamun Gate, you can see the Palace Royal Guard Changing Ceremony each day at 10 am and 2 pm except Tuesday. E161 Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu P02/370–03900 wwww.royalpalace.go.kr A₩3,000 CClosed Tues. mGwanghwamun Station.

Gyeonghuigung Palace

CASTLE/PALACE | Gyeonghuigung, the Palace of Light and Joy, is by far the least grand of Seoul’s palaces, but also the least visited. Built in 1617, it is also the most recent of Seoul’s palaces, but like the others Gyeonghuigung suffered a similar cycle of destruction during Japanese occupation and restoration. The palace is often used as a set in Korean films and dramas, so lucky visitors may even happen upon a movie shoot. Next door is the Seoul Museum of History. E55 Saemunan-ro, Jongno-gu P02/724–0274 AFree CClosed Mon. mSeodaemun Station.

National Folk Museum of Korea

HISTORY MUSEUM | The Gyeongbokgung Palace grounds are home to this museum dedicated to the traditional and present-day lifestyles of the Korean people. It’s a great introduction to the culture and history of the country for first-time visitors, especially the captivating permanent exhibition that covers daily life in villages from the 17th to 20th centuries. There’s also a rotating special exhibit; its past subjects have included folklore, makgeolli, and the history and development of towns such as Busan and Incheon. Although there is no daily tour in English, groups of 10 can reserve English tours in advance at least five days before arriving, and audio guides can be rented at the information desk. A cafe on site sells snacks and sandwiches. E37 Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu P02/3704–3114 wwww.nfm.go.kr/english/index.do AFree CClosed holidays mGwanghwamun Station.

National Museum of Korean Contemporary History

HISTORY MUSEUM | Located across from Gyeongbokgung Palace, this free history museum not only displays documents and photos that chronicle the recent past of the city but also has some stunning views of the Gwanghwamun area from its 8th floor rooftop garden. The museum has several permanent exhibitions spanning the years 1894 to the present day and is a good place to go to begin to understand the city’s modernization, independence, and shift to democracy. English language guided tours are available for groups of five or more with advance reservation. E198 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P0223/3703–9200 wwww.much.go.kr/en/mainen.do AFree mGwanghwamun Station.

Seochon

NEIGHBORHOOD | Becoming ever more trendy, Seochon is the neighborhood to come for fine dining and a glass of wine. Vintage shops, traditional hanok houses, and an art museum, Park No-soo Art Museum, can be explored along its streets, which lie just west of Gyeongbokgung Palace. Traditional food can be sampled at Sejong Village Food Street. E28-1 Tongui-dong, Jongno-gu mGyeongbokgung Station.

Seodaemun Prison History Hall

JAIL/PRISON | It’s worth the hike just west of Jongno-gu in the district of Seodaemun to explore this former prison built in 1908. It once imprisoned Korean independence activists who were pro-democracy during the Japanese occupation; today it houses history exhibits and various prison rooms documenting their suffering and honoring the lives lost on the road to Korean independence. English tours can be booked a week in advance. E251 Tongil-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul P02/360–8590 wwww.sscmc.or.kr/foreign/eng/introduction.html A₩3,000 CClosed Mon. mDongnimmun Station.

Seoul Museum of History

HISTORY MUSEUM | FAMILY | The Seoul Museum of History traces the growth of the nation from the stone-age to modern times. The main museum is divided into four areas—the Joseon Capital, the lifestyle, culture, and the development of Seoul. For children there are numerous interactive exhibits such as the floor-map of Seoul, Touch Hall, and the Education Hall. Also, the museum frequently hosts concerts, movies, and other events. While the museum is free, special exhibitions have a separate admission fee. E55 Saemunan-ro, Sajik-dong, Jongno-gu P02/724–0274 wwww.museum.seoul.kr AFree CClosed Mon. mGwanghwamun Station.

r Restaurants

Gwanghwamun Jip

$ | KOREAN | The definition of a hole-in-the-wall, Gwanghwamin Jip (jip meaning house) is a two-story kimchi-jjiggae (kimchi stew) and jeyuk-bokkeum (spicy, stir-fried pork) restaurant in a back alley. While tucked away, it’s immediately noticeable as the sign in front dates back to the 1950s. Known for: rich, spicy kimchi stew; floor seating upstairs; simple but delicious food. DAverage main: ₩8,000 E12 Saemunan-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Gwanghwamun P02/739–7737 mGwanghwamun Station.

Gwanghwamun Ttukgam

$ | KOREAN | A favorite among nearby businesspeople, Gwanghwamun Ttukgam is a gamja-tang (pork back stew) and pork belly barbecue restaurant. Known for: pork stew served in stone pots; fragrant dishes heavy on garlic and perilla leaves; grilled pork with kimchi. DAverage main: ₩9,000 E21-1 Saemunan-ro 3-gil, Jongno-gu, Gwanghwamun P02/722–5894 mGwanghwamun Station.

Jaha Son Mandu

$$$ | KOREAN | In business since 1993, Jaha Son Mandu specializes in gourmet mandu or Korean-style dumplings. Both the house that the restaurant is in and the recipes used have been passed down to owner Park Hye-kyung from her grandparents. Known for: handmade everything, down to the soy sauce; mandu jeonggol (dumpling hot pot); mandu-guk (dumpling soup). DAverage main: ₩8,000 E12 Baekseokdong-gil, Jongno-gu P02/379–2648 wwww.jahasonmandoo.com mGyeongbokgung Station.

HMijin

$$ | KOREAN | Cold buckwheat noodles are the specialty at this famed Gwangwahmun staple, where there’s usually a wait to get inside. Despite its Michelin-star status the restaurant is nothing fancy, but visitors often take their food to-go and eat at the nearby Cheonggyecheon Stream. Known for: delicious noodles; generous portions; good value. DAverage main: ₩37,000 E19 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu P02/730–6198 wmijin1954.modoo.at mGwanghwamun Station.

Mirak Chicken

$ | KOREAN | One of the city’s best chicken restaurants, Mirak Chicken serves fried chicken three ways: regular, sweet and spicy, and garlic. While the garlic chicken is undoubtedly their signature, be warned that the dish can be a lot to handle, even for fans of the herb, as the garlic is stir-fried and not oven-roasted. Known for: garlic fried chicken; crowds after 8 pm; cold, local beer on tap. DAverage main: ₩16,000 E32-1 Jahamun-ro 17-gil, Jongno-gu P02/736–6741 wmirakcb.cityfood.co.kr mGyeongbokgung Station.

HTosokchon Samgyetang

$ | KOREAN | Reputed to have Seoul’s best samgyetang (Korean chicken soup), this tourist favorite, set in a group of traditional houses, is best recognized by the lines that form outside during lunch. While it is best to go between the lunch and dinner rushes, Tosokchon’s signature samgyetang is worth the wait. Known for: kkakdugi (radish kimchi); atmospheric, traditional setting; classic chicken soup. DAverage main: ₩18,000 E5 Jahamun-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu P02/737–7444 wtosokchon.co.kr mGyeongbokgung Station.

Coffee and Quick Bites

HNamusairo

$ | CAFÉ | Although Seoul’s love of coffee has now boomed in the past decade, and the city often tops lists of most cafes per capita, Namusairo was a game changer when it first opened its doors in 2002. The cafe (its name means “through the trees”) boasts specialty beans from all over the world and an airy, elegant aesthetic. Known for: espresso and brewed coffee; traditional hanok setting; tiramisu. DAverage main: ₩5,000 E21 Sajik-ro 8-gil, Jongno-gu P070/7590–0885 wen.namusairo.com mGyeongbokgung Station.

Staff Picks

$ | CAFÉ | Housed in a large, red-brick building, this sunny coffee shop located in Seochon serves coffee and quick bites. While their menu includes a decent array of pound cakes, seasonal brunch items, teas, lattes, and Americanos, Staff Picks fans are more likely to point you to its merchandise for sale at the cafe’s entrance. Known for: dog-friendly outdoor seating; pound cake; ice cream latte. DAverage main: ₩5,000 E22 Sajik-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu P0507/1341–2055 wwww.staffpicks.co.kr CClosed last Mon. of the month mGyeongbokgung Station.

h Hotels

Four Seasons Hotel Seoul

$$$ | HOTEL | One of the most luxurious accommodations in Seoul, this location of the Four Seasons boasts several well-reputed restaurants and a state-of-the-art spa in addition to spotless, sunny guest rooms that have panoramic city views. Pros: great in-house restaurants and bars; top-notch Korean sauna; central location. Cons: many facilities open to the public; the lobby downstairs can get crowded; decor is not local. DRooms from: ₩387,000 E97 Saemunan-ro, Jongno-gu, Gwanghwamun P02/6388–5000 wwww.fourseasons.com/seoul a317 rooms XNo Meals mGwanghwamun Station.

n Nightlife

HBar Cham

BARS | Located within a traditional hanok, this intimate bar with dim lights and a warm wooden bar serves modern takes on traditional liquors and spirits. It’s a memorable place to sample the best Korean flavors, soju, and craft cocktails. No wonder it’s been named one of the 50 best bars in Asia. Bar bites are available; they’re open until 1 am. E34 Jahamun-ro 7-gil, Tongin-dong, Jongno-gu P02/6402–4750 wwww.instagram.com/bar.cham mGyeongbokgung Station.

Charles H.

COCKTAIL LOUNGES | One of the most glamorous nightlife experiences in the city, Charles H. is a speakeasy located on the basement level of the Four Seasons. Often appearing on World’s Best Bars lists, it screams luxury with its five-star service, mirrored ceilings, and plush seats. Named after 19th-century food writer Charles H. Baker, the bar’s signature cocktails include Le Comedian, a strong rye whisky and rum concoction with chocolatey notes. Make reservations in advance, come dressed to impress, and be prepared to spend some serious cash. There is a cover charge of ₩10,000, and drinks start at ₩28,000. EFour Seasons, 97 Saemunan-ro, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu wwww.instagram.com/charleshseoul mGwanghwamun Station.

HCobbler

BARS | Tucked away in an elegant hanok in Naeja-dong, Cobbler is a whisky and cocktail bar that serves slices of cobbler pie with every visit. The space, dimly lit and furnished with imported antiques, only has room for 20 guests, but plenty of people are willing to wait as the bar’s owner, Robin Yoo, is one of the best-known mixologists in the country. There is no menu, but you can choose from their takes on classics like the Old Fashioned and Moscow Mule or ask the staff to recommend a drink based on your preferences. Come before 7 pm to ensure you’ll get a seat or visit their second, more spacious location in Yeonhui-dong. E16-2 Sajik-ro 12-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/733–6421 wwww.instagram.com/cobbler_naejadong mGyeongbukgung Station.

Hand and Malt Taproom

BARS | Since starting out in 2015, Hand and Malt has gained attention for their craft beer, winning several prestigious awards such as the International Beer Cup and the San Diego International Beer and Cider awards. In 2017, the brand opened this taproom in a hanok in Naeja-dong. Popular beers like the Slow IPA, Mocha Stout, and Hopped Cider are often paired with small bites like their truffle oil fries. The taproom’s courtyard, lit up with string lights, is an especially nice place to have a cool drink in the summer. Fans of the brand can also visit their Brew Lab located in Yongsan. E2 Sajik-ro 12-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/720–6258 wwww.handandmalt.com CClosed Sun. and Mon. mGyeongbukgung Station.

p Performing Arts

Emu Artspace

THEATER | Named after Dutch philosopher Desiderius Erasmus, Emu Artspace is a three-story cultural space that supports experimentation in the visual arts. Located a 15-minute walk from most attractions in the neighborhood, the venue has a gallery, theater, concert hall, and rooftop lounge in its quarters. Film festivals and seminars are held here on a regular basis, and the theater, which screens foreign and independent films, is a major draw for English speakers as it’s one of the few places where Korean films are screened with English subtitles. Seating is limited to 52 visitors, so try to reserve in advance on their website. E7 Gyeonghuigung 1ga-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/730–5604 wwww.emuartspace.com A₩9,000 mGwanghwamun Station.

Sejong Center

ARTS CENTERS | Located directly across from Gwanghwamun Square, the Sejong Center is the largest cultural complex in the city. Its facilities include two art museums, three theaters, and a library—each known for hosting a range of events from classical music concerts to traditional Korean dances to more mainstream theater shows. Notably, the Center’s Grand Theater is famous as the home of Asia’s largest instrument, a 1978 pipe organ with a custom-made Buddhist bell. If catching a show doesn’t sound feasible, be sure to visit at least the exhibition hall in B2 that’s devoted to the stories of King Sejong and Admiral Yi Sunshin. E175 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Gwanghwamun P02/399–1000 wwww.sejongpac.or.kr mGwanghwamun Station.

Seoul Lantern Festival

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | Each November, thousands of colorful, life-size lanterns made by artists from around the world light up the night along Cheonggyecheon Stream. Millions come to the city for the festival, one of the biggest cultural celebrations in Seoul. ECheonggyecheon Stream, 1 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu wenglish.visitseoul.net/seoullantern mGwanghwamun Station.

b Shopping

Kyobo Bookstore

BOOKS | The flagship branch of Korea’s largest chain of bookstores, Kyobo has an excellent selection of English language books as well as a decent selection of stationery, international magazines, and electronic goods. With lots of little nooks for reading and plenty of space to hide away, it’s a great place to go if you’re looking to kill a few hours. The bookstore also hosts book signings and author talks throughout the year. E1 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Gwanghwamun P02/1544–1900 wwww.kyobobook.co.kr mGwanghwamun Station.

Seoul Selection

BOOKS | Located in a basement near Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seoul Selection is the physical bookshop of the eponymous publisher. They’re dedicated to translated works of Korean literature and in-depth, English-language books of Korean history and culture that would be difficult to find elsewhere. In addition to these types of books, you’ll find DVDs, Korean language workbooks, and academic works by long-time Korea experts. Visitors can check the bookstore’s social media for events and book signings sometimes held by the publisher. E6 Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/734–9565 wwww.seoulselection.com mAnguk Station.

a Activities

HANBOK RENTAL

The Gwanghwamun area is home to several hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) rental shops. After trying on their garments, hanbok renters typically take photos in and around the palaces, which allow free entry for those clothed in traditional apparel.

Yes Hanbok

CULTURAL TOURS | This established hanbok rental shop near Gyeongbokgung Palace has a wide array of styles for children, men, and women. The shop, unlike many in Seoul, caters to a range of sizes. The friendly staff can walk you through the process in English, Japanese, and Chinese in addition to Korean. Included in the price of rental are accessories such as handbags, hairpins, and hats. E133-6 Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu, Gwanghwamun P02/734–2567 wyeshanbok.modoo.at ATwo-hour rental ₩10,000 CClosed Tues. mGyeongbokgung Station.

HIKING

A wealth of hiking trails are easily accessible from the Gwanghwamun area. Two of the closest to downtown Seoul are Inwangsan Mountain and Baegak Mountain trails, both of which have city views and take you along Seoul City Wall. The sprawling Bukhansan National Park ( see Sights) is also home to many trails, and is just under an hour away by metro or bus.

HBaegak Trail

TRAIL | Running through Bugaksan mountain, the Baegak Trail begins and ends at two minor gates of the Seoul City Wall, from Changuimun to Hyehwamun. The trail reaches a height of 342 meters (1,122 feet) and takes about three hours to complete. The trail has a lot of history: it’s where North Korean Special forces infiltrated Seoul in 1968. As a result of this history, visitors to the area are required to bring identification in order to enter. Highlights of the trail include the January 21 Incident Pine Tree, a tree with traces of bullets fired during a gunfight with North Korean forces, and Malbawi Observatory, a scenic viewpoint from which both Seongbuk-gu and Jongno-gu are visible. E42 Changuimun-ro, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/730–9924 wseoulcitywall.seoul.go.kr mGyeongbukgung Station.

Bukhansan Trails and Baegundae Peak

HIKING & WALKING | Stop at the Bukhansan National Park Office or Jeongneung Information Center for information and trail maps. From here, one of the most accessible and easy routes at the southern end of the park is Bogungmun Trail. You’ll have to travel a little farther north to Bukhansanseong Information Center at Gupabal Station to reach the most popular route, the Bukhansanseong Trail, which contains a moderate 4–5 climb to the highest peak of the park at 836.5 meters (2,744 feet), Baegundae Peak. EBukhansan National Park, Bukhansanseong Trail, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul mGupabal Station.

Inwangsan Mountain

MOUNTAIN | Just northwest of downtown Seoul, Inwangsan mountain rises just 338 meters (1,109 feet) making it an easy place to hike if you want stellar views of Seoul and its ancient fortress wall. A moderate 1.1-mile out-and-back trail takes you along city wall, past rock formations, and to views of the city. It takes about 45 minutes to complete, but note there are some challenging sections. E29 Inwangsan-ro 1-gil, Jongno-gu mDongnimmun Station.

WALKING TOURS

Dark Side of Seoul Ghost Walk

WALKING TOURS | Seoul isn’t all fashionable boutiques and bubbly K-Pop music; there’s a dark side just below the surface if you know where to look. Enter the Dark Side of Seoul Ghost Walk. This spooky walking tour takes guests on a ghoulish foray into some of the city’s most haunted locales, including Namdaemun Gate and Gyeonghuigung Palace, and tells twisted tales of true crime, ghostly happenings, and history’s more sinister side. The 1.5-hour tours commence after sunset (8 pm) from from Anguk Station on Saturday and Sunday or Seodaemun Station from Tuesday to Friday and cost ₩45,000 per person. The walk takes about an hour and a half to complete. EAnguk Station, Jongno-gu wwww.darksideofseoul.com A₩45,000.

Seoul Guided Walking Tour

WALKING TOURS | Volunteer guides from Seoul’s tourism organization lead free walking tours in English from several points of interest. There are multiple two-hour tours to choose from that stop at top sights like the Gyeongbokgung Palace, the Changdeokgung Palace, and Bukchon Hanok Village. During the week, the tours leave at 10 am and 2 pm; during the weekend, they leave at 10 am, 2 pm, and 3 pm. The meeting point varies based on the tour booked. E6F, 85, Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu P02–6925–0777 wenglish.visitseoul.net/walking-tour AFree xReservations must be made three days in advance online.

Insa-dong, Ikseon-dong, and Bukchon Hanok Village

Just east of Gwanghwamun, old meets new in neighborhoods that evoke Seoul’s past: Insa-dong, where you’ll find a host of teahouses and cafes; Bukchon Hanok Village, with its mazelike streets filled with traditional hanok houses, and Ikseon-dong, similarly lined with traditional Korean architecture. Come here to step back into Seoul’s yesteryear, and then emerge into the here-and-now at the area’s many contemporary art museums.

s Sights

Arario Museum in Space

ART MUSEUM | Founded by world-famous collector Kim Chang-il, this contemporary art museum is housed in a striking brick building from the 1970s. In addition to the rotating exhibitions, there are several dining options including the standout Fritz Coffee and Le Cochon, a French restaurant in the attached glass building. E83 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu P02–736–5700 wwww.arariomuseum.org A₩15,000 CClosed Mon. mAnguk Station.

HBukchon Hanok Village

MUSEUM VILLAGE | With its labyrinthine street and rustic stone and clay houses, Bukchon is one of the few places to get a glimpse of old Seoul. This hilly neighborhood is one of the most picturesque and charming places in the city. Historically home to the upper crust of Korean society, in recent years Bukchon has become a cultural center for residents and tourists alike. Mixed in with the traditional Hanok houses are numerous galleries, cafes, small museums, and guesthouses. To best experience this area, visitors can stay at a traditional hanok guesthouse, such as Gongsimga. The top of the hill offers beautiful views of the city and palaces below, making it a great place to visit at sunset or sunrise. For rest and refreshment, stop by one of the many cafes along Samcheong-gil, which forms the eastern border of the neighborhood. E37 Gyedong–gil, Jongno-gu P02/213–5580 whanok.seoul.go.kr/front/eng/town/town01.do AFree mAnguk Station.

HChangdeokgung Palace

CASTLE/PALACE | FAMILY | If you only have time for one of Seoul’s five palaces, Changdeokgung is the one to see. Built in 1405, it is the Joseon Dynasty’s second palace and is now registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site. Changdeokgung has an older, more historic feel than some of the other palaces and was designed to blend in with the natural landscape surrounding it. What truly sets it apart, however, is the Secret Garden, only accessible via a reserved tour. Nestled on a hill and featuring a lotus pond and 300-year-old trees, the garden follows the serene flow of the four valleys that divide it. Before you visit, check to see if the palace is offering its special nighttime hours, as the building is exceptional in the glow of lamp light. For guided tour times in English and for a roster of seasonal events, visit the palace website. E99 Yulgok-ro, Waryong-dong, Jongno-gu P02/366–82300 weng.cdg.go.kr A₩3,000 CClosed Mon. mAnguk Station.

Changgyeonggung Palace

CASTLE/PALACE | Changgyeonggung stands out for its quiet beauty. Constructed in 1418, the palace was originally a residence for former queens of the Joseon Dynasty. Along with the adjacent Changdeokgung Palace, it was referred to as the East Palace. In 1762 the palace was home to one of Korea’s famous royal murders. As the story goes, Prince Sado, the heir to the throne, was quite strange. Worried about what would happen should he take power, the emperor lured him into a rice casket in the palace, locking him in until he starved to death. Later, during the Japanese occupation, the palace was home to a zoo and amusement park which lasted until the 1980s. Today, Changgyeonggung has been restored to its former state and although the gate is a bit of a hike, it is well worth a visit to see one of Seoul’s serenely landscaped palaces without the crowds of neighboring Changdeokgung. E185 Changgyeonggung-ro,, Waryong-dong, Jongno-gu P02/762–4868 wcgg.cha.go.kr A₩1,000 CClosed Mon. mAnguk Station.

Gallery Hyundai

ART GALLERY | This lovely contemporary art gallery is worth a stop if you’re in Insa-dong and in the mood for perusing quirky, thought-provoking pieces from local and international artists. The space itself is bright and easy to navigate. E14 Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu P02/2287–3500 wwww.galleryhyundai.com CClosed Mon. mAnguk Station.

Ikseon-dong Hanok Village

NEIGHBORHOOD | Within this maze of hanoks (traditional Korean houses) you’ll find a host of trendy bars, cafes, shopping, and hip restaurants. The quaint alleyways are a great place to stroll among the area’s history as it mixes with contemporary Korean culture. E17 Donhwamun-ro 11ga-gil, Jongno-gu mJongno 3-ga Station.

Insa-dong

NEIGHBORHOOD | FAMILY | Full of restaurants and street vendors, modern art galleries and traditional crafts, this neighborhood is buzzing with energy year round. An interesting blend of the old and new, it connects the historic neighborhoods and palaces of northern Seoul to the fast-paced modern downtown. While there are any number of interesting shops, teahouses, and restaurants, the modern Ssamzie-gil complex is worth a special stop. The four-story building is home to more than 70 shops and restaurants, from inexpensive crafts to works by world-famous designers. Insa-dong is one of the best places in the city to shop for souvenirs or antiques. A number of shops sell generic “made in China” ceramics and goods though, so be sure what you are getting is the real thing. Although it has become more tourist-centered in the past few years, Insa-dong remains one of Seoul’s best areas to spend the day. E62 Insadong-gil, Jongno-gu P02/734–0222 wwww.insainfo.or.kr AFree mAnguk Station.

Jongmyo Shrine

MONUMENT | Another of Seoul’s UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Sites, Jongmyo is the royal shrine of the Joseon kings and queens. Completed in 1395, the shrine houses stone tablets said to contain the spirits of these long deceased rulers. Like the palaces of Seoul, Jongmyo was destroyed in 1592, but rebuilt and expanded soon after. The forested grounds make for a peaceful setting, but the highlight here is the shrine itself, credited as the longest wooden structure in the world. Fronted by an expansive, 150-meter-long (492-foot) raised stone yard, it is an impressive sight. More than any other destination in Seoul, Jongmyo makes one feel very, very small—possibly the intended effect in the face of ancient royal spirits. The first Sunday in May Jongmyo hosts the jerye, a slow but colorful Confucian ceremony honoring the old royalty. E157 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu P02/755–0195 wjm.cha.go.kr A₩1,000 CClosed Tues. mJongno 3-ga Station.

Kukje Gallery

ART GALLERY | Nothing screams “modern art gallery” quite like the cube architecture of Kukje, which aims to share the work of contemporary Korean artists like Kwon Young-Woo and Ha Chong-Hyun with the world. The gallery regularly participates in Art Basel and other globally acclaimed art festivals. International artists such as Damien Hirst, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Anish Kapoor are also represented. E54 Samcheong-ro, Jongno-gu P02/735–8449 wwww.kukjegallery.com mAnguk Station.

Museum Kimchikan

OTHER MUSEUM | FAMILY | At this institution for learning about and making kimchi, visitors can take a self-guided tour of the museum’s exhibit highlighting the history and significance of the beloved fermented cabbage dish via a free audio guide. They can also reserve one of two kimchi-making classes four days in advance. A 40-minute kimchi making class focuses on seasonal kimchi recipes, and while it is quite introductory, beginners can go home with five pounds of the delicious dish for ₩20,000. There is also a do-it-yourself, one-day kimchi program for visitors who want to take home almost a pound of red cabbage kimchi. E35-4 Insadong-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/6002–6456 wwww.kimchikan.com AClasses from ₩6,000 CClosed Mon. mAnguk Station.

National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul

ART MUSEUM | Arguably the best known institution of contemporary Korean art, the MMCA has four branches; this location opened in 2013 as its headquarters. Spread across four stories, its facilities include a media lab, digital library, and outdoor courtyard in addition to several galleries. Past exhibitions include a retrospective on Lee Kyungsung, collected works of Duchamp, and a curation of films by Guy Maddin. The museum is a co-sponsor of several prestigious art awards, including the annual Korea Artist Prize for innovative, visual artists addressing social issues, and the museum frequently hosts exhibitions gathering works of such artists. Don’t forget to stop by the museum’s book shop and gift store for souvenirs highlighting contemporary Korean artists. E30 Samcheong-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/3701–9500 wwww.mmca.go.kr CClosed Jan. 1, Lunar New Year’s day, and Chuseok mAnguk Station.

Seoul Museum of Craft Art

ART MUSEUM | FAMILY | The first public museum in the country to specialize in craft arts, SeMoCA opened in 2021 on the site of the former Pungmoon Girls High School. The museum showcases more than 23,000 pieces across four exhibition buildings and includes samples of embroidered fabrics, furniture, and traditional games dating back hundreds of years. While the topic of craft art may not appeal to everyone, the curation here is exceptionally well-done with many detailed explanations and interactive elements. Parents are particularly fond of the museum’s Craft Village, which has kid-friendly studios dedicated to metalwork, ceramics, and wood crafts. Classes for children are also available through the museum’s reservation system. E4 Yulgok-ro 3-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/6450–7000 wcraftmuseum.seoul.go.kr/main AFree CClosed Mon. mAnguk Station.

Sewoon Plaza

NOTABLE BUILDING | This historical, multipurpose building made its international debut as the filming site of the 2021 Korean TV drama Vincenzo. First built in 1968, it was the city’s first high-rise building for residential and commercial purposes and later housed tech- and digital-marketplaces. Despite talks of demolishing the centrally located structure, in 2017, the space was opened up to millennial entrepreneurs who’ve since opened cafes and boutiques alongside a few surviving mom and pop electronic goods shops. Don’t miss a small museum devoted to the space’s history on the third floor, have a coffee at Horangi Coffee, and check out the view of Jongmyo Shrine from the Plaza’s rooftop. E159 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/2271–2344 wsewoonplaza.com mJongno-3ga Station.

r Restaurants

A Flower Blossom on the Rice

$ | KOREAN | A restaurant with an eco-friendly ethos, this Insa-dong hot spot uses GMO-free and organic ingredients to create its signature bibimbap. While typical bibimbaps are made of rice and seasoned vegetables served in a bowl and mixed with gochujang (fermented red pepper paste) at the table, the restaurant’s “bojagi bibimbap” is a play on traditional Korean bojagi (wrapping cloth); it’s hidden inside a thinly cooked yellow egg and wrapped with a seaweed bow. Known for: not-your-average bibimbap; course menus; brainchild of restaurateur Song Jung-eun. DAverage main: ₩18,000 E3-6 Insadong 16-gil, Jongno-gu, Gwanghwamun P02/732-0276 wwww.goodbab.co.kr mAnguk Station.

Ida Seoul

$$ | WINE BAR | At this eight-table contemporary Korean fusion restaurant near Changgyeonggung Palace, expect small, artfully presented plates such as ceviche, octopus, and scallops. There’s a nice selection of natural wines to pair with the dishes and a burrata appetizer to start. Known for: fresh, well curated menu; braised octopus; natural wine. DAverage main: ₩55,000 E153 Seosulla-gil, Gwonnong-dong, Jongno-gu P02/744–3979 wwww.instagram.com/ida_seoul mAnguk Station.

Joseon Gimbap

$ | KOREAN | This Samcheong-dong institution serves one of the best gimbaps (seaweed rice rolls) in the country. Although most gimbap restaurants cater to younger demographics with fillings like tonkatsu (fried porklet) and tuna-mayonnaise, this small eatery serves dishes that adhere to more traditional recipes from Joseon kingdom times, including two types of gimbap, kongbiji (ground soybean stew) and Joseon guksi (warm noodles with a soybean-paste soup). Known for: traditional gimbap; neat and tidy location; fresh ingredients. DAverage main: ₩5,300 E68 Yulgok-ro 3-gil, Jongno-gu, Gwanghwamun P02/723–7496 CClosed Mon. mAnguk Station.

Ppoung-nyon Ssal Nongsan

$ | KOREAN | FAMILY | While the name of this restaurant means “good year for a rice harvest,” locals often refer to it as the corner place with delicious tteokbokki (spicy stir-fried rice cakes). Eat inside the bare-bones restaurant which is also a functioning rice mill, pairing the tteokbokki with one of its popular sides: soondae (blood sausage), twigim (deep-fried meats and vegetables), or eomuk (fish cakes). Known for: classic, inexpensive snacks; no-frills setting; top-notch tteokbokki and tteok-kkochi. DAverage main: ₩1,000 E8-14 Bukchon-ro 5ga-gil, Jongno-gu, Gwanghwamun P02/732–7081 mAnguk Station.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Beautiful Tea Museum

$ | CAFÉ | The Beautiful Tea Museum offers guests a chance to not only sample a variety of Korean teas, but learn the history and properties of them as well. The interior is designed to look like a traditional Korean courtyard, albeit one lined with western style tables. Known for: more than 100 teas; traditional setting; helpful staff. DAverage main: ₩9,000 E19–11 Insa-dong-gil, Jongno-gu P02/735–6678 mAnguk Station.

Cha-teul

$ | CAFÉ | Located in the Bukchon Hanok Village, this traditional tea house and hanok offers seating that looks out onto Bugaksan mountain and serves an extensive menu of Korean teas. The staff, accustomed to tourists, can answer any questions you might have about the beverages and can recommend drinks based on your preferences. Known for: green tea; stunning view and garden; strawberry rice cakes. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E26 Bukchon-ro 11na-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/722–7006 wwww.instagram.com/cha.teul CClosed Mon. mAnguk Station.

Fritz Coffee

$ | CAFÉ | Founded by a pastry chef, barista, and designer trio, Fritz Coffee is a bakery and cafe with three locations in Seoul. This one, Fritz Wonseo, is aptly located in Wonseo-dong, on the first floor of the Arario Museum, a contemporary art museum founded by world-famous collector Kim Chang-il. Known for: single-origin coffee; courtyard seating; red bean and butter baked goods. DAverage main: ₩4,600 EArario Museum, 83 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/747–8101 wwww.fritz.co.kr mAnguk Station.

HTteuran Tea House

$ | CAFÉ | A neighborhood institution, Tteuran—meaning inner garden—opened its doors in 2009 long before Ikseon-dong became the tourist hot spot it is today. The traditional tea house inside in a hanok is owned by Kim Ae-ran, a woman who personally worked on the building’s renovation and still runs the cafe’s register on a daily basis. Known for: omija tea; lovely garden; patbingsu (shaved ice topped with sweet red beans). DAverage main: ₩8,000 E17-35 Supyo-ro 28-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P0507/1401–7420 wwww.instagram.com/cafe_innergarden CClosed Mon. mJongno 3-ga Station.

h Hotels

Centermark Hotel Seoul

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | A no-frills hotel near Insa-dong, the Centermark Hotel Seoul is a safe choice for families, guests in town for business, and larger groups. Pros: free shuttle; friendly staff; wheelchair accessible. Cons: lacks an aesthetic; shuttle stops running at 7 pm; rooms are not soundproof. DRooms from: ₩90,000 E38 Insadong 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/731–1000 wtmarkhotels.com/centermarkhotel/en a250 rooms XNo Meals mJonggak Station.

Gongsimga Hanok Guesthouse

$$ | B&B/INN | Conveniently located in the Insa-dong neighborhood, Gongsimga Hanok Guesthouse is a four-bedroom accommodation in a traditional Korean setting. Pros: family friendly; sunny courtyard where American-style breakfast is served; friendly staff. Cons: Korean-style futons instead of conventional mattress-type beds; less privacy than other area hotels; may be noisy. DRooms from: ₩82,000 E46 Yulgok-ro 1-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/533–7898 a4 rooms XFree Breakfast mAnguk Station.

Moxy Seoul Insadong

$$ | HOTEL | Marriott’s trendy boutique hotel brings value for money with small but thoughtfully designed rooms and a central location in Insa-dong. Pros: free coffee and tea; rooftop and bar on site; near public transit. Cons: surrounding area is lively (loud) at night; no frills service; lacks local character. DRooms from: ₩85,737 E37 Donhwamun-ro 11-gil, Jongno-gu P02/758–1700 wwww.marriott.com a140 rooms XNo Meals mJongno 3 ga.

HRakkojae Seoul

$$$ | B&B/INN | The finest of all of Seoul’s traditional hanok lodgings, everything at Rakkojae—from the master bedroom’s heated jade floors to the elegant Korean-course meals—is orchestrated to help guests better experience and understand Korean tradition. Pros: elegant traditional experience; beautiful surroundings; located in Seoul’s most historic district. Cons: remote location; costs more than average for the area; bedding is traditional Korean futons. DRooms from: ₩280,000 E49–23 Gyedong-gil, Jongno-gu P02/742–3410 wwww.rkj.co.kr a5 rooms XFree Breakfast mAnguk Station.

HTong Tong Petit Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | Open since 2018, this stylish accommodation in the Jongno 3-ga neighborhood has “petit” yet clean rooms, plus facilities like an airy rooftop lounge and cafe. Pros: free coffee; pleasant minimalist aesthetic; attention to detail. Cons: small rooms; rooftop lounge and cafe are open to the public; little sunlight. DRooms from: ₩70,000 E91 Yulgok-ro 10-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/744–3210 wwww.instagram.com/tongtongph a8 rooms XNo Meals mJongno-3ga Station.

n Nightlife

Jong 3-pocha

GATHERING PLACES | While not a conventional bar per se, Jong 3-pocha is a row of pochas (tented bars) outside of Jongno 3-ga Station. It’s one of a dozen such streets left in the city and rare in its longtime hospitality of the LGBTQ+ community. The experience varies from pocha to pocha, but expect plastic lawn furniture seating, green bottles of soju, and generous helpings of seafood. The limited space and unfamiliar foods might be intimidating at first, but after a drink or two, you’ll become enamored of the moody, orange lights and the soft-at-heart ladies in charge. E28 Supyo-ro 26-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu mJongno-3ga Station.

Kiwa Taproom

BREWPUBS | If you’re exploring the hanoks of the Bukchon Village and need a crisp brew, head to this quiet, atmospheric craft beer taproom for a self-serve pale ale, IPA, or saison. Its traditional setting is enchanting, whether you’re here during the day and light streams in from the roof or you’re on the illuminated patio at night. Bar snacks like chicken wings and fries are also available. E74-7 Yulgok-ro 1-gil, Jongno-gu P02/733–1825 mAnguk Station.

Seoul Gypsy

BARS | A craft beer bar built into a hanok, Seoul Gypsy’s brewery and taproom is beloved by the city’s judgiest beer aficionados. Located on the quieter end of Jongno 3-ga, its off-the-beaten-path location means that few customers stumble into the bar by coincidence. While its cozy ambiance certainly adds to Seoul Gypsy’s reputation, the range of unique beers available is the real draw. The seasonal beer menu highlights brews made with local ingredients such as the Twist Gose, a sour beer made with Korean rice wine culture, and the Summer Fling, a farmhouse ale brewed with local peppercorns and tangerines from Jeju Island. E107-1 Seosulla-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/743–1212 wwww.instagram.com/seoulgypsy mAnguk Station.

b Shopping

National Souvenir Center

SOUVENIRS | While the items here may not be as unique compared to Insa-dong’s many specialty shops, the National Souvenir Center is a good one-stop solution. Here you’ll find a number of shops, each focusing on a traditional type of craft; the items are all authentic and (generally) of high quality. Their selection of jewelry boxes, table linens, and vases are easy choices for anyone having a hard time deciding what to buy. E14-5 Insadong-gil, Jongno-gu P02/735–6529 wwww.souvenir.or.kr mAnguk Station.

Object

STATIONERY | A select shop with several locations across the country, Object highlights works by local artists and sells a range of goods from stationery to tote bags and keychains. It’s a great place to get a glimpse of design trends in the country and pick up cute, affordable knick-knacks. The goods are unique and cost less than ₩10,000. E6 Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P070/4829–9008 wwww.insideobject.com mAnguk Station.

Teterot Salon

WOMEN’S CLOTHING | As beautiful as hanbok (traditional Korean dress) is, it can be difficult to wear on a daily basis. That’s why modern designers have been reinterpreting these designs to make them more practical for day to day living. These outfits are called daily hanbok and can be found at a growing number of shops in the Jongno-gu area. One shop that’s become known for their selection is this small boutique in Ikseon-dong, which has a range of outfits from the floral and fantastic to the muted and pared-back. The store is within a hanok (traditional Korean house) and jam-packed with clothes, so you may find moving around in the space a bit difficult, but the staff are friendly and willing to answer any questions you may have along the way. E21-12 Supyo-ro 28-gil, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/704–1369 wwww.teterot.kr mJongno 3-ga Station.

a Activities

COOKING CLASSES

Interest in Korean temple food, a genre of traditional food eaten at Buddhist temples across the country, has increased in recent years thanks to the rise in vegan and sustainable cooking. Typical dishes include rice snacks and kimchi. Two of the most popular cooking classes are the kimchi-making classes offered at Museum Kimchikan (see listing under Sights).

HKorean Temple Food Center

COOKING CLASSES | FAMILY | Opened in 2015, this cultural space near Anguk Station aims to foster a better understanding of Korean temple food. The center holds a number of classes ranging from theory to actual cooking lessons. While there are month-long sessions for long-term students, the Center also holds 90-minute classes in English on Saturday. Each class is taught by a knowledgeable Buddhist practitioner, and all the ingredients are included in the price. Classes must be reserved in advance online on the center’s website, which also details what recipes will be taught. Many of the dishes are delicious, seasonal plates that you may not come across in most Seoul restaurants. You’ll leave well-fed and well-informed. E39 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, Jongno-gu P02/733–4650 wwww.koreatemplefood.com AClasses from ₩10,000 mAnguk Station.

Hyehwa-dong

Hyehwa-dong is the historical culture and performing arts hub of Seoul. It is also commonly referred to as Daehak-ro (sometimes spelled Daehangno, meaning “University Street”) after the area’s main street. Once home to Seoul National University (SNU), South Korea’s most prestigious university, Hyehwa-dong was where students and intellectuals hung out. Many key democracy protests took place here between the 1970s and 1990s as a result of the student movement. SNU moved their main campus south in 1975 and the empty buildings were taken over by theaters.

Considered to be Seoul’s “Broadway,” Hyehwa-dong today is home to over 150 theaters and performance art venues, of all sizes, clustered in the area. Visitors can experience plays, musicals, concerts, movies, comedy shows, non-verbal performances, and more. To keep theatergoers fed, the area is filled with cafes, restaurants, and bars. Plus, the backdrop of pine trees and red-brick buildings add to the area’s allure, making it a popular date-spot for young Seoulites. On weekends, the Daehak-ro street itself is a designated no-car zone and on Sunday, there’s a bustling open-air Philippine Market in front of the Hyehwa Catholic Church. The surrounding hills, set high above Daehak-ro, make up Naksan Park and Ihwa Mural Village. If you’re looking for an area to stroll around at a slower pace in Seoul, Hyehwa-dong is the perfect place.

GETTING HERE

Hyehwa-dong is a dong (neighborhood) in Jongno-gu district. Take subway Line 4 to Hyehwa Station, an easy starting point. For a scenic hike, get here by foot from Dongdaemun. Take the Naksan Mountain Trail along the historic Seoul City Wall. At the top, catch your breath and take in the sweeping views of the city. Follow the path to Ihwa Mural Village and spend an hour or two admiring the art, taking pictures, and visiting shops and cafes. When you’re ready, continue down, following the signs to Daehak-ro.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

The best time to visit Hyehwa-dong is in the late afternoon for a stroll and dinner before a performance or on the weekend. For those who enjoy urban hikes, start at Dongdaemun and hike up and down the hills to Hyehwa-dong. Allot two extra hours for the hike to allow ample time to check out the museums, cafes, city views, and public art.

s Sights

ARKO Art Center

ARTS CENTER | Designed by prominent Korean architect Kim Swoo-geun, the ARKO Art Center was established in 1979 under the direction of the Arts Council Korea, also known by its acronym, ARKO. Kim’s goal was for his architecture to represent a poem written by light and bricks. He achieved just that, as the center’s red brick is an iconic symbol of Hyehwa-dong. The building consists of an exhibition space, archive, cafe, and other facilities dedicated to showcasing Korean contemporary art and supporting emerging Korean artists. Most exhibitions are free. EMarronnier Park, 3 Dongsung-gil, Jongno-gu P2–760–4850 wwww.arko.or.kr/artcenter CClosed Mon. mHyehwa Station.

Gaeppul Museum & Cafe

OTHER MUSEUM | At this cafe and museum in the Ihwa Mural Village, the price of admission includes a drink and access to its Lock, Pottery, and Kitchen mini-museums. (The Lock Museum is particularly famous). The owner spent decades collecting these Korean artifacts to showcase in his own space. Although explanatory text is limited, the staff are more than happy to offer insights as you sip your drink from room to room. There are also outdoor seats on the observation decks with breathtaking views of Seoul’s skyline. This is also a great place for a bathroom break (with paid admission) as the public ones in the village are often closed. EIhwa Mural Village, 26 Naksanseonggwakseo 1-gil, Jongno-gu P02/517–2525 wwww.instagram.com/cafe_gaeppul A₩7,000 mHyehwa Station.

HIhwa Mural Village

MUSEUM VILLAGE | The Ihwa Mural Village was created in 2006 when the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism invited more than 70 artists to paint or create sculptures for their “Art in the City’’ initiative to revive the area. Formerly known as a Daldongnae, “Moon Village,” because of the unobstructed views of the moon seen from the hills, the village was home to the lower and working class, and Korean War refugees during the 1950s.

The vibrant displays of artwork mixed with historic Seoul have revitalized the area, attracting locals and tourists. The most famous pieces are the Koi Fish staircase (EIhwajang 1na-gil), Mosaic Flower staircase (EYulgok-ro 19-gil), and Angel Wings (E9-396 Ihwa-dong) where there is always a line for photos. In fact, the area has become so popular that the district has enforced a “Silent Campaign.” While you’re meandering the alleyways looking for the next masterpiece, remember to keep your voices low, respect the privacy of residents, and hold on to or properly dispose of your trash to ensure the continuity of the village for years to come. E49 Naksan 4-gil, Jongno-gu mHyehwa Station.

Marronnier Park

CITY PARK | This small park right outside Hyehwa Station Exit 2 is the heart of Hyehwa-dong. Named after the Marronnier (horse chestnut) trees that are planted there, it was once a part of Seoul National University’s former campus. Today it’s where people come to stroll around before performances or to watch street performances. The park transforms into an open-air stage in the evenings and on weekends during the warmer months. Unlike the street performances in Hongdae that lean more toward the K-Pop genre, here you’ll find mimes, magicians, and acoustic guitar performances.

Despite its size, there are a handful of landmarks within the park, including ARKO Arts Theater, ARKO Art Center, and sculptures, including a large statue of Kim Sang-ok, a political activist who died fighting for Korean independence. At the center of the park, there’s a Seoul National University monument, a miniature recreation of the university that once occupied the area. From May to June, the Marrionner trees are in bloom, showing off vibrant red and white flowers while offering much needed shade and in the fall, the foliage turns amber. It’s an excellent place to sit within nature and people-watch any time of year. E104 Daehak-ro, Ihwa-dong, Jongno-gu P02/2148-4158 mHyehwa Station.

Naksan Park

CITY PARK | Located on Naksan, one of the four guardian mountains of Seoul, Naksan Park is perched on top of the hill and offers stunning views of the city. The park and mountain are named after the camel’s hump, nakta (Korean for camel), and san (Korean for mountain). The natural area, including the solid granite bedrock of Naksan, was destroyed during the developments made under Japanese occupation. To restore and preserve the remaining green belt, the Seoul Metropolitan Government established Naksan Park in 2002. Today, Naksan Park features a traditional Korean pagoda with colorful, ornate painted details, several observation decks, badminton and basketball courts, an exhibition hall, and a small convenience store. E41 Naksan-gil, Jongno-gu P02/743–7985 wparks.seoul.go.kr mHyehwa Station.

Philippine Market

MARKET | On Sunday from 9 am to 5 pm, the street in front of the Hyehwa Catholic Church transforms into Little Manila with a lively open-air market with Filipino vendors selling traditional foods like baked bananas and balut (fertilized duck egg), hard-to-source produce, toiletries, and more. The church holds mass in Tagalong on Sunday afternoons, so the market also serves as a gathering place for the Filipino community in Seoul. E58-2 Hyehwa-dong, Jongno-gu mHyehwa Station.

r Restaurants

Hoho Sikdang

$$ | JAPANESE | Set within a renovated hanok (traditional Korean house), this restaurant serves homemade Japanese food. There is often a wait, but groups of four or more can reserve a dining room in advance by phone. Known for: creamy uni pasta, fresh sashimi, and salmon dishes; kind service; chic interior. DAverage main: ₩70,000 E35 Daehak-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu P02/741–2384 wwww.instagram.com/hohosikdang mHyehwa Station.

Jungdon

$$$ | JAPANESE FUSION | This Japanese katsu restaurant is one of the best places in Seoul to get your crispy tempura battered cutlet fix. Here, the pork cuts are so incredibly tender and juicy that they practically melt on the tongue. Known for: shrimp and pork cutlets; long lines; scatch-made Japanese curry. DAverage main: ₩70,000 E12 Daehak-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu P02/987–0924 mHyehwa Station.

Memilhyang Geujip

$$ | KOREAN | Although this restaurant has the Korean word for buckwheat (memil) in their name, Memilhyang Guejip’s main draw is their dak-bokkeum-tang (Korean braised chicken stew). They are best known for their spicy version smothered in cheese. Known for: stews cooked in front of you; buckwheat jeon (pancake); warm service. DAverage main: ₩30,000 E72-3 Myeongnyun 4(sa)ga, Jongno-gu P02/745–3681 mHyehwa Station.

HNanumi Tteokbokki

$ | KOREAN | A local institution since 1989, this bunsik (Korean snack foods) shop is widely considered to serve the best tteokbokki (hot and spicy rice cake) in all of Seoul. Barring pandemic restrictions, they are open 24 hours, but no matter when you go, there will always be a line of people. Known for: Busan eo-muk (fish cake skewers) served with a brush for soy sauce; speedy service; bright green bunsik plates. DAverage main: ₩11,900 E9-1 Sungkyunkwan-ro, Myeongnyun 2(i)ga, Jongno-gu P02/747–0881 mHyehwa Station.

Sundae Silloc

$$ | KOREAN | The star recipe of this restaurant is sundae (Korean blood sausages); their menu has traditional sundae soups as well as modern takes like sundae steak. Even those who usually don’t like sundae or are nervous about trying it leave with a newfound appreciation for this Korean delicacy. Known for: sundae stir fry; self-service vegetable bar; bloodless sundae. DAverage main: ₩30,000 E1-41 Dongsung-dong, Jongno-gu P02/742–5338 wsundaestory.com mHyehwa Station.

Coffee and Quick Bites

HHakrim Dabang

$ | CAFÉ | Opened in 1965, Hakrim Dabang is widely considered the oldest running coffee shop in the area (dabangs are old-school Korean establishments that primarily served coffee and non-alcoholic drinks). Not much has changed since then, including the shelves of vinyl, vintage photographs of Seoul on the walls, and velvet lined seats; walking up the creaky, wooden stairs to the shop almost feels as if you’re traveling into the past. Known for: famous Vienna Coffee, an espresso drink served with dollops of cream; popular K-drama shooting location; signature crustless cheesecake dessert served with fruit preserves. DAverage main: ₩12,000 E119 Daehak-ro, Myeongnyun 4(sa)ga, Jongno-gu P02/742–2877 whakrim.pe.kr mHyehwa Station.

Uhjjuhdah Sanchek

$ | CAFÉ | This gorgeously designed bookshop and cafe is the neighborhood’s best kept secret. Follow the white staircase down to a bright courtyard in front of the building’s entrance to peruse a curated book selection that changes monthly based on the theme. Known for: exclusive tea selection; delicious pastries; calm environment. DAverage main: ₩12,000 E101 Dongsung-gil, B1F, Jongno-gu P02/747–7147 wwww.instagram.com/ujd.promenade mHyehwa Station.

n Nightlife

Dokil Jutaek

BARS | Tucked inside a renovated hanok (traditional Korean home), this chill bar is the perfect marriage of new Korean aesthetics and a German menu that highlights sausages and beers. Its name is a play on words: In Korean, Dokil Jutaek translates to “German House” but in Hanja, a traditional writing system for Korean based on Chinese characters, it means “to drink alone.” In Korean culture, drinking is a highly social activity but here, enjoying a drink alone and mingling with others at the bar is encouraged. Whether or not you prefer to be a social butterfly, a visit is full of Instagrammable cheese and meat plates and an impressive imported beer list best enjoyed while relaxing in the courtyard. E16-4 Daemyeong 1-gil, Myeongnyun 4(sa)ga, Jongno-gu P02/742–1933 wwww.instagram.com/germany_house mHyehwa Station.

Duidongsan

BARS | Known for its swoon worthy design details and hip crowd, this small makgeolli (Korean rice wine) bar was created in collaboration with some of Korea’s finest design talents. The wood-panel interior, the custom made ceramics, the funky wooden tables and seats, and the music curation all contribute to this feast of the senses. Their makgeolli selection features hard-to-come-by brewers and a few bottles made in-house. The food menu consists of banchans (Korean side dishes) such as crispy gamja jeon (potato pancake);and anju (Korean drinking foods) that pair harmoniously with the drinks. E3 Samseongyo-ro 2-gil, Samseondong 1(il)-ga, Seongbuk-gu, Jongno-gu P02/766-3977 wwww.instagram.com/duidongsan_our mHansung University Station.

p Performing Arts

Securing tickets and reservations for performances in Hyehwa-dong is hard for foreigners in Korea without a national ID number and/or a non-tourist SIM card. To experience a performance in Daehak-ro, advanced reservations are usually not required. With so many theaters in the area, securing tickets a few hours before a performance is hassle-free. Walk around the Marrionner Park area and peruse the performance posters to find out what’s on that evening.

ARKO Arts Theater

THEATER | The ARKO Arts Theater building, located across the park from the ARKO Art Center, was designed by architect Kim Swoo-geun and opened in 1981. The building’s purpose is to help promote performance art. Here, visitors can experience performances in two halls as well as learn about Korean music, acting, and dance. For those who are overwhelmed by performance options in the area, choosing a performance here is a safe and excellent choice. E7 Daehak-ro 8-gil, Ihwa-dong, Jongno-gu P02/3668–0007 wtheater.arko.or.kr mHyehwa Station.

a Activities

Naksan Mountain Trail (Seoul City Wall Trail)

HIKING & WALKING | This 2.1-km (1.3-mile), two-way trail leads you from Heunginjimun Gate (in the neighborhood of Dongdaemun) to Hyehwamun Gate. A portion of the Seoul City Wall, the fortress walls built during the Joseon Dynasty that once defended the city’s borders, can be found along the trail. On this moderate hike with a gentle slope, you’ll get the best bird’s eye view of Dongdaemun, including its landmark gate. The trail takes you through Naksan Park and Iwha Mural Village and is one of the best ways to experience Seoul’s history and geography. There are multiple exits and entryways for those who do not want to hike it all. ENaksan Park, 622-83 Changsin-dong, Jongno-gu mHansung University Station, Dongdaemun Station, Dongdaemun History and Culture Station.

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

TOP EXPERIENCES

Go shopping: Myeongdong’s streets are filled with skin care products, clothes, and street foods.

Visit one of Seoul’s oldest markets: Namdaemun Market sells everything from clothing to dumplings.

Admire City Hall: A library, vertical garden, cool architecture, and a nearby palace make this area worth a look.

Bar crawl: A range of bars, from hip and artsy to down-to-earth and informal, await you in trendy Euljiro.

Order cold noodles: The buckwheat noodle dish naengmyeon has become all the rage, and this district has Seoul’s best.

GETTING HERE

Jung-gu means “central district,” so it’s no surprise the neighborhood is easily accessible from most parts of Seoul and beyond. Seoul Station, at the center of Jung-gu, directly connects to the express airport and Gyeongui-Jungang train from Incheon International Airport. The station is also a stop on the high-speed railroad called KTX and has a major hub for city buses. Seoul Station, Myeongdong, and Namdaemun can be reached on line four at Seoul Station, Myeongdong, and Hoehyeon stations. Euljiro, northeast of Myeongdong, is accessible via Euljiro, Euljiro 3-ga, and Euljiro 4-ga stations. Note, catching a cab after a mass exodus of trains at Seoul Station may be difficult. There are two different taxi stands, one behind the station and another in front.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

For a full day in the district, start by visiting a sight like the palace, marketplace, or museum as many of these attractions have earlier hours. Jung-gu is also great for a range of affordable dining options and some restaurants do offer specials for lunch, which may be worth looking into. Much of Myeongdong and Namdaemun are closed after 10 pm, but the Euljiro neighborhood really comes to life after hours.

PAUSE HERE

Doldam gi. Translating literally to “stone wall path,” this small street winds around the wall protecting Deoksugung Palace and ends near the entrance of the Seoul Museum of Art. While only 900 meters (2,953 feet) in length, the street has twenty benches and more than 130 trees, making it a popular place to take walks in the autumn. It’s known as one of the most romantic walks in the area despite the fact that it’s also associated with divorce (Seoul Family Court, where people once filed for divorce, was located here). City Hall Station.

Jung-gu (literally, “central district”) is jam-packed with attractions, hotels, and out-of-towners wheeling their suitcases to Seoul Station to catch a train. Its most famous corners are Myeongdong, known for its shopping district, and Namdaemun, for its gate and traditional market. Each neighborhood is bustling with shops that offer flavors of Korean culture. Nearby, Euljiro and Seoul Station have taken the capital by storm with their reinvention of spaces, creative bistros, and hole-in-the-wall restaurants. Spend the day shopping, see City Hall nearby, and watch the district transform before your eyes as day turns into night.

Myeongdong has long been known as a tourist destination thanks to its many shops selling trending Korean casual wear and skincare products as well as internationally recognized Western brands. Namdaemun, too, has great souvenirs such as Korea-themed soju glasses, chopsticks, and hanji (traditional Korean paper).

If you’re less interested in shopping, you can head over to Seoul’s City Hall just a few blocks away. Out on the plaza, many visitors pose for a photo at the large “I SEOUL U” sign or attend one of the many events held here. On a quieter day, you can see Seoulites with their noses in books at the library or colleagues enjoying a bit of sun on their lunch breaks. Deoksugung Palace, across from City Hall, is a less obvious but equally elegant choice of Seoul’s traditional palaces to see in the area.

Also take time to check out more recent developments in the area, often better reflections of how Seoulites spend their time. You’re likely to fall in love with Euljiro, the neighborhood of old printing presses and lighting shops between Myeongdong and Jongno. The weathering warehouses here light up with neon lights and dim lamps as bars and restaurants in the area begin to open at dusk. In recent years, Seoul’s younger generation have reconstructed the spaces, so much so that Euljiro is better known by the nickname “hip-jiro.” You’ll be delighted by the endless cascade of cool bistros like After Jerk Off and you might end up at Nogari Alley, a street full of bars that sell dried pollack and Korean beer.

Jung-gu is a great place to eat, especially for those who enjoy subtler Korean dishes and old-school vibes. There are dozens of restaurants in the area that date back to the 1970s and 1980s, and while this may not sound like a long time by American or European standards, here, this means the restaurants were created on the backs of the Korean War. Naengmyeon, or cold buckwheat noodles, is a beloved dish often made in Pyongyang-style and many local noodle lovers do consider Euljiro to be the mecca of the dish in Seoul. It may be a bit of an acquired taste, but head over to the restaurant Woolaeok to see what all the fuss is about.

Myeongdong

One of the first established neighborhoods of the Joseon Dynasty, Myeongdong has long been known as the center of commerce and international trade. The district’s reputation for tourism dates back to the 1800s when Chinese soldiers and merchants set up shop in the area. The foot traffic of the neighborhood made it home to several prominent theaters and churches, although the theater district has since relocated to Hyehwa-dong. With everything from skincare products to high-end brands and ₩5,000 T-shirts sold on the street, it is a great place for retail therapy.

s Sights

Myeongdong Cathedral

CHURCH | FAMILY | One of the best-known religious sights in the country, this cathedral opened its doors in 1898 despite political opposition, on the site where Korea’s first Christians gathered as early as 1784. More recently, it played an important role in safeguarding human rights activists during labor protests of the 1970s and 1980s. Catholics continue to attend mass here while visitors come to observe the history and the architecture, especially notable as it is one of the first brick, Gothic style buildings in Korea. The Cathedral has an annex with several cafes that are open to members of the congregation and visitors alike. E74 Myeongdong-gil, Jung-gu, Myeongdong P02/774–1784 wwww.mdsd.or.kr xEnglish Mass Sun. at 9 am mMyeongdong Station.

Myeongdong Shopping Street

STREET | More of a shopping district than a shopping street, Myeongdong has dozens of small boutiques selling everything from skincare to women’s wear and more. These shops often have a small selection of cheaper items set up outside that invite you to come in. While bargaining used to take place years ago, most shops stick strictly to the tag price since a crackdown on price gouging took place around 2014. Unlike similar shopping districts in the city, the vendors in Myeongdong are more likely to speak English (and Chinese and Japanese for that matter) and understand a tourist’s shopping needs such as tax-free shopping and bulk purchases for souvenirs. EMyeongdong-gil, Jung-gu, Myeongdong mMyeongdong Station.

Namsangol Hanok Village

MUSEUM VILLAGE | Namsangol gives visitors a chance to see what a Joseon-era village would have looked like. Through reproductions of old hanok houses, Namsangol manages to avoid kitsch and focuses on recreating the mood of an old village and teaching about village life in Korea. The five main buildings are beautiful examples of the type of Korean wooden hanok houses once owned by high-ranking officials. The village also hosts events for Korean holidays like Chuseok and Lunar New Year, making it a great place to visit when many other venues in the city are closed. See the village’s website for a variety of traditional experiences you can reserve in advance. E28 Toegye-ro 34-gil, Pildong 2-ga, Jung-gu P02/226–4412 wwww.hanokmaeul.or.kr AFree CClosed Mon. mChungmuro Station.

r Restaurants

Hadongkwan

$ | KOREAN | A beloved Seoul institution since 1939, Hadongkwan is known around the country for their gomtang (bone broth soup). While the dish is simple and paired only with a humble bowl of rice and kkakdugi (radish kimchi), it has a cult following. Known for: classic bone broth soup; closes at 4 pm; longtime neighborhood favorite. DAverage main: ₩13,000 E12 Myeongdong 9-gil, Jung-gu, Myeongdong P02/776–5656 wwww.hadongkwan.com CClosed Sun. No dinner mEuljiro Station.

HMokmyeonsanbang

$ | KOREAN | Although bibimbap (rice with mixed vegetables) is sometimes disregarded as an introductory Korean dish, the iteration served at Mokmyeonsanbang proves that there is an art to crafting this dish. There are six different types of bibimbap on the menu, each made with meticulously sourced ingredients like sesame oil, fresh vegetables, and local rice. Known for: long wait at lunch; sanbang (vegetarian) bibimbap; beef tartare bibimbap. DAverage main: ₩8,000 E71 Toegye-ro 20-gil, Jung-gu P02/318–4790 wwww.facebook.com/MMMBANG/ mMyeongdong Station.

Myeongdong Gyoja

$ | KOREAN | Established in 1966, Myeongdong Gyoja is one of the most recognized restaurants in Seoul. While many in the older generations complain that their signature kalguksu (knife-cut noodles) have become increasingly more expensive and saltier over the years, the dish is still a Myeongdong must-try. Known for: kalguksu noodles; side of garlicky kimchi and rice; pork dumplings. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E29 Myeongdong 10-gil, Jung-gu, Myeongdong P0507/1366–5348 wwww.mdkj.co.kr mMyeongdong Station.

h Hotels

Ibis Ambassador Seoul Myeong-dong

$$ | HOTEL | An excellent value for both business and sightseeing, the Ibis Ambassador is a reliable hotel choice in this location. Pros: hotel brand has a familiar model; warm, helpful staff; close to shopping. Cons: lacks amenities; generic decor; standard rooms are small. DRooms from: ₩115,000 E78 Namdaemun-ro, Jung-gu P02/6361–8888 wwww.ambatel.com/ibis/myeongdong/ko/main.do a280 rooms XNo Meals mEuljiro Station.

Lotte Hotel Seoul

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | A good base for sightseeing, shopping, and nightlife, the Lotte Hotel is just a few steps away from Euljiro 1-ga Station. Pros: excellent location with direct access to Lotte Department Store; free use of pool (unusual in Seoul); often runs discount promotions. Cons: lobby can get quite crowded; no local flavor; furnishings need updates. DRooms from: ₩272,000 E30 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu P02/771–1000 wlottehotel.com/seoul/en a1,120 rooms XNo Meals mEuljiro Station.

Metro Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Centered in the heart of Seoul’s downtown, Metro Hotel is a comfortable, no-frills tourist hotel and one of the best values in the area. Pros: great customer service; clean, comfortable, large rooms; complimentary kids’ room. Cons: modest design may not be for some; common areas are cleaned less frequently; limited facilities. DRooms from: ₩143,000 E14 Myeongdong 9-gil, Jung-gu P02/752–1112 wwww.metrohotel.co.kr a78 rooms XNo Meals mEuljiro Station.

The Shilla Seoul

$$$$ | HOTEL | Established in 1979, The Shilla Seoul has built its reputation from a time when there were few high-end hotels in the city; now it contains a luxury spa by French cosmetic brand Guerlain as well as all the trappings of a true luxury hotel. Pros: views of Namsan mountain; rooms have a somewhat more Korean feel than other luxury hotels; excellent in-house spa. Cons: can be very crowded during wedding high seasons (spring and winter); few nearby dining options; not as central as downtown hotels. DRooms from: ₩495,000 E249 Dongho-ro, Jung-gu P02/2233–3131 wwww.shilla.net a459 rooms XNo Meals mDongguk Univ. Station.

p Performing Arts

Myeongdong NANTA Theater

THEATER | FAMILY | Traditional Korean percussion inspires the modern rhythmic performances of NANTA, Korea’s largest theatrical hit ever. What sets NANTA apart from other percussion performances is its humor, storyline, interaction with the audience, and the fact that it’s set in a kitchen. If you took a frantic reality cooking show, mixed it with Stomp, and added a dollop of humor, this show would be the result. EUNESCO Building, 50–14 Myeong-dong 2-ga, 3rd fl, Jung-gu P02/739–8288 wwww.nanta.co.kr mMyeongdong Station.

b Shopping

Lotte Department Store

DEPARTMENT STORE | Open since 1979, the Lotte Department Store is a major landmark in the area. Spanning fourteen floors and two buildings, the department store is known for their selection of cosmetics on the first floor and options for young women in their annex, Lotte Young Plaza. The department store also has a reputable food court and grocery shop on the basement level. E81 Namdaemun-ro, Jung-gu, Myeongdong P02/1577–0001 wwww.lotteshopping.com mEuljiro Station.

Myeongdong Night Market

MARKET | There are few experiences as magical as strolling this night market after dark, when neon lights from shopfronts illuminate the narrow streets filled with street food vendors, shops, and more. Browse the shops with a stick of twigim or tteokbokki in hand, or a cone of gelato artfully sculpted into the shape of a flower from Gela Rosa. EChungmuro 2(i)-ga, 8-3-ga, Jung-gu mMyeongdong Station.

Olive Young

COSMETICS | If you’re on the hunt for K-Beauty products, there are few better shops than Olive Young, South Korea’s preeminent health and beauty store. This is the flagship of the brand, sort of a Sephora of Korea, which has several locations throughout the city. Top products include everything from international best sellers like La Neige night cream to Korean favorites like BB LAB molecular fish collagen sticks. E53 Myeongdong-gil, Myeongdong, Jung-gu P02/736–5290 wglobal.oliveyoung.com mMyeongdong Station.

Shinsegae Department Store-Main Branch

DEPARTMENT STORE | Korea’s oldest department store, the main branch of Shinsegae has more character than its rivals. The mall has local boutiques, international brands like Tiffany’s, Hermès, and Chanel as well as a prominent Boon The Shop (a modern Korean clothing store that carries global designers). To call the basement a high-end supermarket doesn’t do it justice. For first-time visitors to Korea, it is an experience in itself. The mall is also known for its Christmas decorations, on display from November to January. E63 Sogong-ro, Jung-gu P02/158–81234 wwww.shinsegae.com mHoehyeon Station.

HStylenanda Pink Hotel

WOMEN’S CLOTHING | One of the best-known brands in young women’s fashion and make-up is Stylenanda, and its five-story flagship store in Myeongdong makes shopping a photo-worthy experience. Clad in pink and gold, the hotel-themed interior is reminiscent of Wes Anderson’s The Grand Budapest Hotel, a film that was incredibly popular in South Korea. Popular products for purchase include their signature 3CE makeup and clothing such as simple T-shirts, jeans, and brightly colored dresses. There is a cafe on the fifth floor that recreates the experience of being in a pool. The rooftop also has a lounge that’s open during the summer. E37-8 Myeongdong 8-gil, Jung-gu, Myeongdong P02/752–4546 wwww.stylenanda.com mMyeongdong Station.

City Hall

Government buildings, landmark hotels, and small office spaces make up this area surrounding Seoul’s City Hall. Unlike many neighborhoods in Seoul that cater to specific interests or age groups, this area around City Hall sees many different walks of life. This is particularly evident during events and festivals, often held on the front lawn (plaza) of City Hall’s main building.

s Sights

HDeoksugung Palace

CASTLE/PALACE | FAMILY | Located next to City Hall, Deoksugung is an oasis in the heart of downtown Seoul. Originally built as a residence for the crown prince, Deoksugung was the only palace to survive the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. Today, it is the most modern of the palaces, blending a European-style garden and fountain with traditional palace architecture. It is also home to the National Museum of Contemporary Art, which features rotating exhibitions of Western and Korean artists. While not as grand as Seoul’s other four palaces, Deoksugung is notable for its contrast to the chaos and bustle of the surrounding downtown and makes an excellent stop after a day of sightseeing or shopping. At night the main hall and other buildings are illuminated, giving the palace a quiet, mysterious air. E99 Sejong-daero, Jung-gu P02/771–9951 wwww.deoksugung.go.kr A₩1,000 CClosed Mon. mCity Hall Station.

Seoul City Hall

GOVERNMENT BUILDING | The ultimate combination of old and new, Seoul City Hall is made up of two buildings: the original City Hall built in 1926 and the annex added in 2012. The original City Hall building is now used as a library and is officially referred to as the Seoul Metropolitan Library while most administrative duties are conducted in the stunning annex. Not your average city hall, the eco-friendly annex has wavelike architecture and one of the tallest vertical gardens in the world, the Green Wall, that make it well worth a visit. The plaza outside City Hall often holds events and free performances. On the lower floor is Citizens Hall, a community gathering place with art exhibitions. E110 Sejong-daero, Jung-gu P02/731–2120 wenglish.seoul.go.kr/city-hall mCity Hall Station.

Seoul Metropolitan Library

LIBRARY | Housed in Seoul’s former city hall, this bookworm’s paradise is worth a look for the historic architecture alone, but it also has 5-meter (16-foot) tall book shelves and more than 510,000 books. Open to everyone, it’s a good place to stop for a quiet moment of refuge during city exploration. E110 Sejong-daero, Jung-gu P02/2133–0300 wlib.seoul.go.kr/rwww/html/en/main.jsp mCity Hall Station.

Seoul Museum of Art

ART MUSEUM | One of the city’s main art museums, the Seoul Museum of Art’s collection is a balanced mix of Korean and foreign as well as classic and modern art. In addition to its permanent collection, the museum often holds special exhibitions ranging from classic foreign masters to new Korean talent. This is a good stop to see what is happening in the Korean art world. The building itself is a grand colonial-era structure that, though it began life as a gallery, later housed the Korean Supreme Court. E61 Deoksugung-gil,, Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu P02/2124–8800 wsema.seoul.go.kr AFree except for special exhibitions CClosed Mon. mCity Hall Station.

Seoul Plaza

PLAZA/SQUARE | The green space outside Seoul’s city hall frequently holds events such as the Seoul Kimchi Festival, Seoul Queer Culture Festival, and the Hi Seoul Festival (dedicated to street arts). Don’t leave without snapping a photo next to the popular I SEOUL U sign on the edge of the plaza. E110 Sejong-daero, Jung-gu wenglish.seoul.go.kr mCity Hall Station.

r Restaurants

Hangaram

$ | KOREAN | FAMILY | A great option for beginners to Korean cuisine, Hangaram is a small restaurant away from the Myeongdong center that specializes in hanjeongsik (full course Korean meals). The set menu with dried yellow corvine and the lotus leaf rice are two popular options, but the highlight of the meal, regardless of what you order, is undoubtedly the banchan (side dishes); visitors rave about the japchae (stir-fried glass noodles) and cucumber-peppers tossed in doenjang (soybean paste). Known for: homemade Korean meals; generous portions; welcoming staff. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E25 Namdaemun-ro 5-gil, Jung-gu P0507/1347–3088 wwww.hangaramfood.co.kr mCity Hall Station.

h Hotels

Fraser Place Central Seoul

$$$ | APARTMENT | FAMILY | These centrally located, spacious serviced apartments are an excellent choice for families or large groups. Pros: prime location; apartment setup feels like coming home; perfect for longer stays. Cons: some amenities feel worn out; dining options are available, but not great; some may prefer the feeling and service of a hotel. DRooms from: ₩162,000 E78 Tongil-ro, Jung-gu P02/2220–8000 wwww.frasershospitality.com a271 rooms XNo Meals mCity Hall Station.

HThe Plaza Seoul, Autograph Collection

$$$ | HOTEL | Downtown Seoul’s most strikingly unique luxury hotel offers all the comforts of a Marriott without sacrificing its local identity, plus a spa, fitness center, and six restaurants and bars. Pros: great view of City Hall; center of downtown; contemporary design. Cons: mixed design concept may be jarring for some; rooms are smaller than some less central luxury hotels; expensive. DRooms from: ₩255,000 E119 Sogong-ro, Jung-gu P02/771–2200 wwww.hoteltheplaza.com/en a408 rooms XNo Meals mCity Hall.

The Westin Josun Seoul

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Thanks to frequent renovations, excellent staff, and an understanding of the needs of 21st century travelers, Korea’s very first luxury hotel has long been one of its best. Pros: several in-house dining options, pool, and sauna on site; excellent customer service; established reputation and long history. Cons: lacks innovative design; some rooms show their age; lobby is very busy. DRooms from: ₩334,500 E106 Sogong-ro, Jung-gu P02/771–0500 wjosunhotel.com a462 rooms XNo Meals mCity Hall Station.

p Performing Arts

Jeongdong Theater

THEATER | This intimate 326-seat hall offers near-daily live evening performances of traditional Korean music and dance. Schedule to see a show after visiting the nearby Deoksugung Palace. E43 Jeongdong-gil, Jeong-dong, Jung-gu P02/751–1500 wwww.jeongdong.or.kr CClosed Mon. mCity Hall Station.

Euljiro

Likely Jung-gu’s most talked-about neighborhood in the past five years, Euljiro is the district named after 7th-century military leader Eulji Mundeok. While the neighborhood previously consisted of lighting shops, printing presses, and general warehouses, a newer generation of entrepreneurs have taken over since 2015, making creative use of the industrial spaces. The interesting contrast of a few older shops side by side with the hip bars and restaurants have given Euljiro the nickname “hip-jiro.”

r Restaurants

HEunjujeong

$ | KOREAN | In a small alley of Bangsan Market, this beloved and often crowded Korean barbecue and kimchi-jjiggae (kimchi stew) joint has separate menus for lunch and dinner: kimchi-jjiggae with ssam (assorted vegetables) by day and kimchi-jjiggae with samgyeopsal (pork belly) after 5 pm. By night the vibe changes, when the smell of barbecue fills the air and people chase their shots of soju with spoonfuls of kimchi. Known for: barbecue pork; lively atmosphere at dinner; kimchi stew. DAverage main: ₩8,000 E32 Changgyeonggung-ro 8-gil, Jung-gu P02/2265–4669 CClosed Sun. mEuljiro 4-ga Station.

Pyeongraeok

$ | KOREAN | FAMILY | One of the leading names in North Korean cuisine, Pyeongraeok was first opened by a woman from Pyeongyang, North Korea in 1950. The restaurant is so popular that when it closed down in 2008, it reopened two years later in its current location due to demand. Known for: chogyetang (chilled sweet and sour chicken soup); consistently good food; dak-mucchim (chicken in a sweet and spicy sauce). DAverage main: ₩12,000 E21-1 Mareunnae-ro, Jung-gu P02/2267–5892 CClosed Sun. mEuljiro 3-ga Station.

Woolaeok

$ | KOREAN | FAMILY | A family-owned establishment since 1946, this beloved Seoul institution is best known for their mul-naengmyun (buckwheat noodles in a chilled broth) and bulgogi. Come to the restaurant for an early lunch, and there are often lines out the door waiting to enter. Known for: chilled buckwheat noodles; loyal following; bulgogi. DAverage main: ₩14,000 E62-29 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jung-gu P02/2265–0151 CClosed Mon. mEuljiro 4-ga Station.

Coffee and Quick Bites

HCoffee Hanyakbang

$ | CAFÉ | The name of this tucked-away cafe, located in an incredibly narrow alley in Euljiro, means “traditional medicine room.” Visitors are charmed as much by the vintage lamps and traditional Korean furniture inside as by the single-origin coffee and baked goods. Items can be purchased on the first floor and there’s seating available on the first, second, and third floors of the establishment. Known for: single origin coffee; vintage decor; several floors of seating. DAverage main: ₩4,500 E16-6 Samil-daero 12-gil, Jung-gu P070/4148–4242 wwww.instagram.com/coffee_hanyakbang mEuljiro 3-ga Station.

Hotel Soosunhwa

$ | CAFÉ | Located on the fourth floor of a warehouse in Euljiro, Hotel Soosunhwa is a picturesque cafe, bar, and co-working space. While they do serve basic coffees and lattes, they are best known for their colorful, fruity drinks like their passion fruit–ade and sangria. Known for: fruity drinks; concerts and other regular events; trendy co-working space. DAverage main: ₩5,500 E17 Chungmu-ro 7-gil, Jung-gu, Jung-gu P070/8950–2649 wwww.instagram.com/hotel_soosunhwa mEuljiro 3-ga Station.

n Nightlife

HAfter Jerk Off

BARS | A bar and bottle shop with an interior as memorable as its name, After Jerk Off’s cinematic space is inspired by the aesthetic of Asian street food markets. Each detail of the bistro—from the Buddha head in one corner to the towering green plants under the dim, red lights—comes together for a powerful effect. The menu, which changes seasonally, offers natural wine, cocktails, and simple Asian-inspired dishes. Note that the bar is less kid-friendly than most as there are some provocative photos on display. E42-21 Supyo-ro, Jung-gu P0507/1324–5032 wwww.instagram.com/after_jerk_off mEuljiro 3-ga Station.

HNogari Alley

BARS | Approximately a dozen bars occupy two parallel streets outside Euljiro 3-ga Station to make up Nogari Alley, one of Seoul’s most festive places to have fresh beer and nogari (dried pollack). While the fish snack is not everyone’s cup of tea, the ambiance is a crowd pleaser unlike anything else you’ll experience in the city, especially in warmer weather. Each bar sets up red and blue lawn furniture outside, and the streets fill with friends and coworkers kicking back with cold drinks. It may be difficult to find a table between 8 pm and 10 pm, but if one bar is full you can easily hop to another. There’s little to differentiate them. Fried chicken and jwipo (fish jerky) are also on the menu. E129 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Jung-gu mEuljiro 3-ga Station.

Seendosi

BARS | Located on the fifth floor of an industrial warehouse, this artsy and ornate bar is a must-see for Euljiro area first-timers. Simple cocktails and a few craft beers are served in the space, better defined by its decor of neon lights and kitschy objects. Visitors can also bring their drinks to the rooftop, furnished simply with lawn furniture and a digital waterfall. E31 Eulji-ro 11-gil, Jung-gu P070/8631–4557 wseendosi.com mEuljiro 3-ga Station.

Suldabang

BARS | Before modern cafes became the norm across South Korea, people visited dabangs, establishments much like today’s coffeeshops. This contemporary dabang has a twist: it serves cocktails made with sul (traditional Korean alcohol) along with light snacks. As sul is continuing to evolve, the availability of the liquor is subject to change. However, the Jeju-bada, made with tangerines from Jeju Island, and Euljiro, made with famous Samhae soju, are two Suldabang signatures. E33 Euljiro 11-gil, Jung-gu P02/2272–0818 wwww.instagram.com/suldabang mEuljiro 3-ga Station.

Seoul Station

While this area surrounding the central transportation hub had a seedy reputation for many years, it’s been rebranded since the opening of Seoullo (an overpass-turned-park surrounding Seoul Station) and Culture Station Seoul 284 (a train station turned artspace). As with neighborhoods surrounding most central stations in capital cities, there are still shadowy corners in which you might not want to linger, but it’s relatively tourist-friendly, with lots to do. Visit the aforementioned sights and walk around the neighborhood behind Seoul Station, Malli-dong. The neighborhood has a number of quaint restaurants, bars, and cafes worth a stop if you’re waiting for a train or bus out of the city.

s Sights

Culture Station Seoul 284

ARTS CENTER | Housed in the previous train station, Culture Station Seoul 284 is an arts complex that often hosts performances, exhibitions, and events. The building, originally Gyeongseong Station in 1925, was renovated several times before opening in its current iteration in 2011, but many of the rooms have the look and feel of early modern Korea. The station’s Central Hall has a striking glass ceiling worth admiring, and the former barbershop has been converted to a small exhibition center showcasing the building’s restoration. E1 Tongil-ro, Jung-gu P0507/1416–3501 wwww.seoul284.org CClosed Mon. mSeoul Station.

Seoullo 7017

CITY PARK | Modeled after New York’s High Line, Seoullo 7017 is a park constructed from an overpass. Built in 1970, the overpass was shut down after being deemed unsafe for cars and after some renovation, opened to the public as a green space in 2017. A little over half a mile, the park is the perfect place for visitors to stroll, taking in panoramic views overlooking Seoul Station and admiring the 20,000 plants that grow here. In the summer, there are a range of events and a dozen public pianos stationed along the way. E432 Cheongpa-ro, Jung-gu P02/313–7017 mSeoul Station.

Coffee and Quick Bites

The House 1932

$ | CAFÉ | Originally built in 1932 during Japan’s colonization of Korea, this cafe once housed many prominent military and political figures before opening in its current form in 2018. Although the building has been heavily renovated over the years, its history lives on through the structure, which still very much feels like a residence. Known for: Americanos; cozy attic seating; baked goods. DAverage main: ₩4,900 E5 Mallijae-ro 35-gil, Jung-gu, Jung-gu P02/365–1932 wthehouse1932.co.kr mSeoul Station.

h Hotels

Millennium Hilton Seoul

$$$ | HOTEL | If you’re looking for a place to crash near Seoul Station, this high-rise from the trusted brand, located at the foot of Namsan mountain, is a good bet. Pros: park views; convenient to train station and Namsan Park; restaurants, pool, spa, and casino on site. Cons: decor feels dated; feels more American than Korean; breakfast costs extra. DRooms from: ₩240,000 E50 Sowol-Ro, Jung-gu P02/753–7788 whilton.com a680 rooms XNo Meals mSeoul Station.

Namdaemun and Around
s Sights

HNamdaemun Market

MARKET | Seoul’s oldest and second largest market is easily its most accessible and interesting for visitors to the city. Filled with vendors selling everything from clothing to cameras to food, this sprawling indoor and outdoor market is not only great for shopping, but it also makes a fascinating sightseeing destination in its own right. An estimated 500,000 people come to Namdaemun daily, making for an energetic and crowded but manageable spectacle. Established in 1414, the market has been destroyed any number of times, most recently after the Korean War, and again in 1968 and 1975. Yet after each setback, this market has rebuilt and prospered. While there is still much history to be found in Namdaemun, to see it now is to get a glimpse of the dynamism and spirit that has propelled Korea onto the world stage. E21 Namdaemunsijang 4-gil, Namchang-dong, Jung-gu P02/753–2805 wwww.namdaemunmarket.co.kr AFree CClosed Sun. mHoehyeon Station.

Namsan Cable Car

VIEWPOINT | The only cable car in the center of the city is known for its panoramic views and its history dating back to 1962. As such, it’s been featured in a number of popular K-dramas such as Boys Over Flowers and is often a favorite destination of drama watchers. The glass cable car, which fits as many as 48 passengers, stretches approximately a third of a mile from its entrance in Hoehyeon-dong to Namsan’s peak. Try to visit the cable car on weekdays as you can expect to wait as long as one hour for the three-minute ride on the weekend, and you may have to stand up during the ride if all 48 passengers are packed into the car. E83 Sopa-ro, Jung-gu P02/753–2403 wwww.cablecar.co.kr A₩13,000 for round-trip ticket mHoehyeon Station.

Piknic

ART GALLERY | Located at the foot of Namsan mountain, Piknic is an art space that also houses a cafe and bar. Past exhibitions have highlighted immersive visual experiences and include works highlighting Ryuichi Sakamoto, Saul Leiter, and Goo Gi-jeong, to name a few. Exhibitions here are often accompanied by a film in the small in-house theater. Those with tickets to an exhibition can also check out the rooftop for mountain views, though the space’s other facilities are open to the public, regardless of paid entrance. For a splurge, you can combine your art trip with a lunch at renowned French fusion restaurant, Zero Complex, on the third floor. E30 Toegye-ro 6ga-gil, Jung-gu P070/8821–6374 wpiknic.kr CClosed Mon. mHoehyeon Station.

Sungnyemun Gate (Namdaemun Gate)

HISTORIC SIGHT | One of the four main gates that made up the Fortress Wall of Seoul, Sungnyemun Gate (also called Namdaemun Gate) is a designated Korean treasure. It was originally built in 1396 and renovated several times, boasting the title of “the oldest wooden structure in Seoul” for decades. However, a civilian lit it on fire in 2008, and much of it was closed to the public until 2013. It’s a great place to stop by in all its reconstructed splendor, and the extra security detail makes your visit feel safe. E40 Sejong-daero, Jung-gu P042/481–4650 CClosed Mon. mSeoul Station.

r Restaurants

HNamdaemun Gamegol Son Wang Mandu

$ | KOREAN | Arguably the best cheap wang mandu (king-size dumplings) in Seoul can be ordered at this restaurant in Namdaemun Market, where customers line up for pink take-out boxes from the front counter. The restaurant has two signature types of dumplings: kimchi with a spicy kick, and plain meat with juiciness in each bite. Known for: dining upstairs; delicious, inexpensive dumplings; lively market location. DAverage main: ₩4,000 ENaedaemun Market, 42 Namdaemunsijang 4-gil, Jung-gu P02/755–2569 CClosed Sun. mHoehyeon Station.

HPalais de Chine

$$$$ | CHINESE | Set in a beautiful dining room that evokes 1930s Shanghai, this elegant Chinese restaurant in L’Escape Hotel is a favorite among Seoulites. Bold and spicy Sichuan flavors punctuate the menu, which is filled with delectable elevated classics and dim sum. Known for: Peking duck; atmospheric setting; dim sum. DAverage main: ₩150,000 EL’Escape Hotel, 67 Toegye-ro, 6 Fl., Jung-gu P02/317–4001 wwww.lescapehotel.com/dining/diner03 mHoehyeon Station.

HZero Complex

$$$$ | FRENCH | Often at the top of lists ranking the best fine dining in Seoul, this lauded French restaurant within the multicultural artspace Piknic has a minimalist dining room that allows artfully prepared dishes to shine. Opened in 2018 by Chef Lee Chung-hu, the restaurant is known for Lee’s innovative use of ingredients and his emphasis on home-grown vegetables. Known for: view of N Seoul Tower; sea bass; seasonal menu highlighting vegetables. DAverage main: ₩110,000 EPiknic, 30 Toegye-ro 6ga-gil, Jung-gu P02/532–0876 wcatchtable.co.kr/zerocomplex CClosed Sun. mHoehyeon Station.

h Hotels

L’Escape Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | A ten-minute walk from Myeongdong central, this Belle Époque-inspired hotel designed by Jacques Garcia (also known for his work at the NoMad Hotel in New York) has become one of the most popular in the area since opening in 2018. Pros: renowned dining options; strong interior design; pet-friendly. Cons: dark decor may not suit all tastes; nearby restaurants and bars are generally closed at night; lacks local flavor. DRooms from: ₩170,000 E67 Toegye-ro, Jung-gu P02/317–4000 wwww.lescapehotel.com a204 rooms XNo Meals mHoehyeon Station.

n Nightlife

Marque d’Amour

COCKTAIL LOUNGES | The blue velvet seating, dark wood, and glamorous details of this cocktail bar make for a sumptuous setting to sip drinks that often tell a story about Korea. The signature Spirit of Jeju highlights tangerines from the island and is served in citrus over ice. Other fanciful presentations are common; you might just find your coupe glass is topped with an orb of smoke. Mocktails are also available. EL’Escape Hotel, 67 Toegye-ro, 26th fl., Jung-gu P02/317–4004 wwww.lescapehotel.com mHoehyeon Station.

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

TOP EXPERIENCES

Explore Dongdaemun Design Plaza: This space-age building designed by Zaha Hadid is a must-see.

Shop for the latest K-trends: Dongdaemun is home to more than 26 malls and 30,000 specialty stores in a 10-block radius.

Sample street food: The Gwangjang Market Food Alley is one of Seoul’s best food markets.

Marvel at Heunginjimun Gate: This 14th-century structure is part of the city’s fortress wall.

GETTING HERE

Dongdaemun is easily accessible from the airports and all areas of central Seoul. Reach the center of Dongdaemun via subway to either of the main stations: Dongdaemun or Dongdaemun History & Culture Park, the former being on lines 1 and 4 and the latter on lines 2, 4, and 5. Major shopping centers are clustered around both stations, but for Dongdaemun Design Plaza exit at the Dongdaemun History & Culture Park station. Taking a local bus is also an option, with many bus stops along the main roads Jong-ro, Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jangchungdan-ro, and Eulji-ro. From Incheon Airport take the A’REX (Airport Railroad) Express train to Seoul Station then change to line 4, or the 6001 bus to central Dongdaemun.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Considering the dozens of malls and thousands of shops, not to mention the local markets and cultural sights, you’d need years to explore all of Dongdaemun. The key is prioritization. If you’re a shopper, dedicate at least one day to the malls (you could easily budget one day per mall!), while design and art enthusiasts will want to spend the same among the galleries of Dongdaemun Design Plaza. A walk around the Seoul City Wall or the Dongdaemun History & Culture Park each take around an hour, as does each museum. Most of the main sights are within easy walking distance.

VIEWFINDER

Naksan Park. Unlike many other parts of Seoul, there are no ultra-tall skyscrapers in this area. Thus, one of the best views can be found just north of Dongdaemun from the mountain-top Naksan Park. Either take the bus or walk about an hour from Heunginjimun Gate along the ancient Seoul City Wall to the peak of the 410-foot (125-meter-tall) Naksan mountain. There you’ll find multiple observation decks and colorful pagodas that look out on the lively shopping district, downtown Seoul, and distant mountains beyond. It’s a lovely spot to pack a picnic and watch the sunset. E41 Naksan-gil, Ihwa-dong, Jongno-gu wwww.parks.seoul.go.kr Bus: Naksan Park.

The Griffin Bar. It may not be the tallest hotel in the Dongdaemun area, measuring in at only 11 floors, but the rooftop terrace features a front-row seat to the 600-year-old Heunginjimun Gate in the adjacent Dongdaemun Square. Head up after dark for a classic cocktail accompanied by the city’s history unfurling amidst the modern shopping malls below. EJW Marriott Dongdaemun Square Seoul Metro: Dongdaemun.

Dongdaemun is one of South Korea’s most popular retail destinations, renowned for giant malls, trendy fashion labels, and a virtual frenzy of 24-hour shopping. This 10-block stretch of Seoul is jam-packed with over 30,000 stores featuring everything from luxury goods to the latest K-style trends. Tens of thousands of people flock to the area’s 26 malls on a daily basis for a dose of retail therapy, but there’s more to this dynamic district than just shopping. Dongdaemun is awash with history, culture, and art, and the neighborhood is famed for the cutting-edge architecture of the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, which has modernized the area’s aesthetic.

Official maps of the city district labeled Dongdaemun-gu show the neighborhood to the east of what is commonly referred to as Dongdaemun. While that area is filled with residential neighborhoods, local parks, and universities, make no mistake that it’s the expanse around Dongdaemun Design Plaza and Heunginjimun (aka Dongdaemun) Gate that most people visualize when they think of this vibrant commercial district. Effectively, small corners of what is officially Jongno-gu and Jung-gu are what is commonly recognized as Dongdaemun.

Dongdaemun’s history goes back hundreds of years, with the most famous material evidence being the Joseon-era Seoul City Wall. This 14th-century fortress wall studded by the magnificent Great East Gate (aka Heunginjimun/Dongdaemun) passes through what is now Dongdaemun Square and Dongdaemun History & Culture Park. Excavations have also shown the area to contain government buildings, water collection facilities, wells, and an armory over the past few hundred years until it was used as a military training ground during the Japanese Occupation during the 20th century. After the conclusion of the Korean War in 1953, the area became a haven for North Korean refugees who worked in the textile trade and made clothing from discarded military tents and uniforms. Over time, stall fronts turned into markets, markets developed into malls, and the area blossomed into the energetic retail hub it is today.

s Sights

Cheonggyecheon Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | The Cheonggyecheon Stream is a manmade waterway and walking path stretching 11 km (7 miles) through central Seoul and is one of the city’s most popular attractions. The museum exhibits trace the history of the stream from its natural origins to pollution during the Japanese occupation, to being covered by a freeway overpass, to the 21st-century restoration project that revived it, transforming it into the peaceful oasis it is today. E530 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Seongdong-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2286–3410 wmuseum.seoul.go.kr AFree mYongdu.

HDongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP)

ARTS CENTER | FAMILY | Ever since this massive, spaceship-like cultural center opened in 2014 it’s become a quintessential sight in Dongdaemun and is visited by an average of 30,000 people per day. The futuristic Zaha Hadid–designed structure is clad with 45,133 aluminum panels and hosts more than 100 exhibitions and events each year. There are also architectural tours, a rooftop garden, kids’ art classes, restaurants, cafes, and shops to keep you occupied for hours. E281 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2153–0000 AFree (fee for some events and exhibitions) mDongdaemun History & Culture Park.

Dongdaemun History & Culture Park

CITY PARK | It seems anachronistic that the Dongdaemun History & Culture Park is directly adjacent to the ultra-modern Dongdaemun Design Plaza, but there it is: the new juxtaposed with the old. They were both constructed at the same time as part of one massive project, and it was all of the ancient relics unearthed that led to the establishment of the park as a historical destination. The park houses remnants of Hanyangdoseong (Seoul City Wall) and the Yigansumun Water Gate, as well as the Dongdaemun History Museum. E281 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun AFree mDongdaemun History & Culture Park.

Dongdaemun History Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | Part of the Dongdaemun History & Culture Park, this museum displays pottery, porcelain, and other relics excavated during the park’s construction; they date from the 14th century to the Japanese occupation of Korea in the 20th century. EDongdaemun History & Culture Park, 43 Eulji-ro 45-gil, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2153–0200 wmuseum.seoul.go.kr AFree mDongdaemun History & Culture Park.

Donggwanwangmyo (Dongmyo) Shrine

MONUMENT | Just outside Dongmyo subway station (exit three), there’s a whole city block that feels as though it’s emerged from another era. This veritable time warp contains various examples of Chinese art and architecture including wood statues, stone calligraphy tablets, and an ornate, colorful shrine dedicated to the third-century general Guan Yu of the ancient Chinese state Shu Han. The general’s spirit was said to have led a Korean army to victory over a Japanese invasion in 1592, and the complex was erected in 1599 in his honor. E84 Nangye-ro 27-gil, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun AFree mDongmyo.

HGwangjang Market Food Alley

MARKET | This section of the sprawling Gwangjang Market is a food lover’s dream. The market’s history dates back more than 100 years and the bright, buzzing atmosphere remains the go-to place to sample Korea’s famous street food. Not to be missed are the bindaetteok (savory mung bean pancakes), mandu (meat or kimchi-filled dumplings), and tteokbokki (simmered rice cake in a spicy red sauce). More adventurous eaters can try san-nakji (raw, freshly chopped live octopus), jokbal (pig feet), and dakbal (chicken feet). Prices are inexpensive, and it’s possible to fill up with two or three items for less than ₩10,000 (more for the delicacies). E88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2267–0291 wwww.kwangjangmarket.co.kr CClosed Sun. mJongno 5(o)ga.

Heunginjimun Gate

HISTORIC SIGHT | Also known as Dongdaemun Gate (Great Eastern Gate), this massive, elaborate structure is one of the eight gates that protected the outer wall of Seoul Fortress during the Joseon Dynasty. Originally built in 1396, the towering two-story hipped roof features the distinctive curved edges of East Asian architecture. The gate fell into disrepair and was rebuilt in 1869, and in 1963 was designated a National Treasure by the Korean government. E288 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun AFree mDongdaemun.

Iumpium Sewing History Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | FAMILY | This unique little museum lies on a residential street north of the hectic thoroughfares around Dongdaemun Square. Permanent and special exhibitions explore the history of the sewing industry in Korea, and there are hands-on experiences such as making brooches or keychains. Tours in English are offered for one to 20 people and must be reserved at least one day in advance. E26 Changsin 4-ga-gil, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun P02/747–6471 wwww.iumpium.com AFree (varying fees for special exhibitions) rReservations required via iumpium@naver.com mDongdaemun.

Seoul City Wall Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | Set in Dongdaemun City Wall Park (also known as Heunginjimun Park), this compact yet worthwhile museum is dedicated to the 18.63 km-long (11.58 mile-long) wall that has surrounded Seoul for more than 600 years. The museum is divided into three permanent exhibition halls featuring the history of the wall, the construction and management of the wall, and the damage and reconstruction of the wall. If you’re planning on walking the Seoul City Wall Trail consider popping into the museum first to enhance your experience. ESeoul Design Support Center, 283 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, Fl. 1-3, Dongdaemun P02/724–0243 wmuseum.seoul.go.kr AFree mDongdaemun.

Seoul City Wall Trail

TRAIL | FAMILY | Constructed in 1396 to protect the capital from invasion, Hanyangdoseong is an 18.63 km-long (11.58 mile-long) fortress wall punctuated with eight gates that took 197,400 people 98 days to complete. Although many sections of the colossal wall have been lost to time, about 70 percent of the wall and six of the gates remain intact today. The wall was built in harmony with the city’s natural topography by lining the ridges of Seoul’s four main mountains, making the trails following the wall today a great way to explore Seoul from the ground up. Two sections of the wall lie in the Dongdaemun area and extend north and south from Heunginjimun Gate.

The northern Naksan Mountain Trail follows the remnants of the wall for 2.1 km (1.3 miles) over Naksan Mountain to Hyehwamun Gate, and the southern Heunginjimun Gate Trail extends 1.8 km (1.1 miles) past Dongdaemun History & Culture Park and Dongdaemun Design Plaza to Gwanghuimun Gate. Whichever trail you take, a good place to start is with a visit to the Seoul City Wall Museum set in Dongdaemun City Wall Park. E622-83 Changsin-dong, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun wseoulcitywall.seoul.go.kr AFree mDongdaemun.

r Restaurants

BLT Steak

$$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | This fine-dining outlet is the signature restaurant of the JW Marriott Dongdaemun Square Seoul hotel. The rich ambiance, with its marble floors and coffered ceiling, underscores the steep menu prices, but it’s worth it to find a New York–style steak 7,000 miles away from the Big Apple. Known for: nighttime views of the illuminated Heunginjimun Gate; salt selection including raspberry, lemon, and black garlic; USDA dry-aged rib eye. DAverage main: ₩100,000 EJW Marriott Dongdaemun Square Seoul, 279 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2276–3330 wwww.marriott.com mDongdaemun.

Dokkaebi Bulgogi

$ | KOREAN | Bulgogi is one of the most popular foods in Korea, and this industrial-style, hole-in-the-wall eatery is the perfect place to give it a try. The word bulgogi translates to “fire meat” and the dish is comprised of thin, marinated slices of beef grilled DIY-style on a table-top griddle. Known for: lunch specials; consistent quality; signature Kebbi bulgogi with mushrooms and sweet onion slices. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E38 Eulji-ro 43-gil, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2269–1538 mDongdaemun History & Culture Park.

Grandma Na Jeong Sun’s Jjukkumi

$ | KOREAN | For a unique gastronomic experience, make your way to the bronze octopus statue that marks Jjukkumi Alley. Although it’s famed for the many outposts dedicated to the eponymous delicacy, the 35-year-old Grandma Na Jeong Sun’s restaurant is considered the original and best; the Korean delicacy is made with baby octopus marinated in a spicy red chili sauce that’s quickly seared on a grill, then served wrapped up in perilla leaves and accompanied by a ubiquitous bottle of soju. Known for: the best version of one of the spiciest dishes in Korea; long wait times in the evening; friendly and attentive service (although the staff doesn’t speak English). DAverage main: ₩15,000 E144 Muhak-ro, Yongdu-dong, Dongdaemun-gu, Dongdaemun P02/928–0231 mJegi-Dong.

Jin Ok Hwa Original Chicken Restaurant

$ | KOREAN | Despite the often long wait and hot dining room, this low-key restaurant has developed a cult-like following since it opened in 1978. Dak Hanmari means “whole chicken” and is a type of traditional Korean chicken soup cooked hot-pot style on each table. Known for: comfort food; soup customizations: garlic, kimchi, and noodles; the best chicken soup in Dongdaemun Dak Hanmari Alley. DAverage main: ₩16,000 E18 Jong-ro 40ga-gil, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2275–9666 mDongdaemun.

Kyochon Chicken Dongdaemun No. 1

$ | FAST FOOD | With a whopping 87,000 fried chicken restaurants in South Korea, and a huge proportion of them set in the Seoul Capital Area, it’s obvious that Koreans love this tasty treat, and one of the most popular chains is Kyochon Chicken. The Dongdaemun location is the company’s largest, and it’s open 24 hours a day, 365 days per year. Known for: its secret, soy sauce-based recipe; window seats that overlook Dongdaemun Square and Heunginjimun Gate; staff who speak English, Chinese, and Japanese. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E464-6 Changsin-dong, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2231-9337 wwww.kyochon.com mDongdaemun.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Emack & Bolio’s

$ | ICE CREAM | FAMILY | What started as a homemade ice cream venture in a basement in Boston in 1975 has become a global rock ‘n’ roll-themed frozen treat enterprise. There are seven locations in South Korea and the DDP shop features the usual lineup of whimsical flavors and cones inspired by rock stars. Known for: funky flavor combinations; over-the-top handmade waffle cones dipped in chocolate or marshmallow, then rolled in cereals, cookies, or sprinkles; great vegan ice cream selection made with coconut cream. DAverage main: ₩10,000 EDongdaemun Design Plaza, 281 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2153–0722 wwww.emackandbolios.com mDongdaemun History & Culture Park.

J. Hidden House

$ | CAFÉ | Set in a circa-1915 traditional hanok house passed down through generations to the current owner, this is without a doubt the most atmospheric cafe in Dongdaemun. The time-worn interior and tranquil courtyard feel miles (and years) away from the bustling city beyond, and a locavore focus on seasonal Korean ingredients and domestic producers creates a unique menu of baked goods, snacks, tea, coffee, beer, wine, and cocktails. Known for: perfectly crispy Korean bamboo salt fries; antiques from the owner’s family; seasonal fruit teas. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E94 Jongno 6(yuk)-ga, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun P02/744–1915 wwww.jhiddenhouse.com mDongdaemun.

The Piola Flower and Coffee

$ | CAFÉ | Stepping off the main thoroughfare into this flower-filled haven is like being transported to an English garden. The quaint florist and cafe is only 10 minutes’ walk from the hectic DDP but feels decidedly peaceful as you sip a flower-infused tea, a strawberry latte, or simply sniff the copious arrangements of roses, peonies, and hydrangeas. Known for: charming, peaceful atmosphere; seasonal strawberry themed menu; flower arranging classes. DAverage main: ₩7,000 EM Tower, 26-9 Jangchungdong 1(il)-ga, Jung-gu, 1 fl., Dongdaemun P02/2272–8808 wwww.instagram.com/the_piola mDongdaemun History & Culture Park.

h Hotels

Acube Hotel Dongdaemun

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | A 10-minute walk from Dongdaemun Design Plaza, this simple yet serviceable hotel is a good option for the price tag, and while on-site amenities are fairly limited, there is a rooftop terrace and a cafe with a charming sidewalk patio. Pros: family rooms can sleep up to five people; there’s a guest laundromat; the lobby snack shop is stocked with beer, fruit, and sandwiches. Cons: no bar or restaurant; the continental breakfast has limited choices; no significant views from the rooms. DRooms from: ₩95,000 E5 Dongho-ro 35 gil, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2264–2888 wwww.acubehotel.com a46 rooms XNo Meals mEuljiro 4(sa)ga.

Air Hostel Dongdaemun

$ | HOTEL | Tucked along a side street, this perky hostel is within a 10-minute walk of Cheonggyecheon Stream, Dongdaemun Square, and Gwangjang Market Food Alley; in other words, the location is fabulous. Pros: very close to the nearest subway station; rooftop terrace with skyline views; property has a cute, trendy vibe. Cons: some rooms are very compact; there’s stair-access only; the area has a few late-night bars and can be noisy. DRooms from: ₩40,000 E25-2 Daehak-ro 2-gil, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun P02/742–6696 wairhosteldongdaemun.southkrhotel.com a22 rooms XFree Breakfast mJongno 5(o)ga.

Hotel the Designers Dongdaemun

$ | HOTEL | The geometric black-and-gold facade and sophisticated lobby belie the affordability at this hip high-rise hotel. Pros: some rooms have in-room free-standing soaking tubs; the hotel exudes an upscale feel for the price; rooms provide mini fridges and tea and coffeemakers. Cons: some rooms are very small; no breakfast or amenities; no frills service. DRooms from: ₩70,000 E306 Toegye-ro, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2271–3501 wwww.designershotel.co.kr/en a99 rooms XNo Meals mDongdaemun History & Culture Park.

Hotel Gaon Golden Park Dongdaemun

$ | HOTEL | This quirky little hotel feels like you’ve stepped into a dollhouse—everything seems petite and whimsical—and while it’s clear that the brightly colored walls, faux flowers, and kitschy baubles are meant to attract a young, budget-conscious Instagram crowd, it’s also got all the necessary room amenities like kettles and strong Wi-Fi for a comfortable, albeit snug, stay. Pros: knowledgeable staff who offer up area suggestions; guest microwave, fridge, and washing machine; a variety of eateries and bars are scattered along the same street. Cons: rooms are small; bathrooms have no wet and dry separation; it’s set a few blocks from the main streets in a residential neighborhood. DRooms from: ₩68,000 E77 Jong-ro 44-gil, Changsin-dong, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun P02/741–5071 a50 rooms XNo Meals mDongmyo.

HJW Marriott Dongdaemun Square Seoul

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | The prime location across from Heunginjimun Gate along with luxurious amenities make the neighborhood’s only 5-star hotel worth the splurge. Pros: indulgent spa; views of Heunginjimun Gate from the rooftop bar; kids’ pool and seasonal children’s activities for families. Cons: parking is limited; mixed reviews about executive lounge food options; it’s pricey, and no meals are included. DRooms from: ₩300,000 E279 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2276–3000 wwww.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/seldp-jw-marriott-dongdaemun-square-seoul a170 rooms XNo Meals mDongdaemun.

Travelodge Dongdaemun Seoul

$$ | HOTEL | This location of the international hotel brand is an excellent choice for those looking to stay close to the Dongdaemun action on a budget; rooms have the basic amenities (TVs and Wi-Fi), but there’s a shared lobby space with a microwave and fridge. Pros: low price for the area; all rooms have city views; friendly front desk staff. Cons: room windows are small; no fridge or coffeemaker in rooms; housekeeping quality is inconsistent. DRooms from: ₩80,000 E359 Dongho-ro, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2160–8888 wwww.travelodgehotels.asia/travelodge-dongdaemun-seoul a242 rooms XNo Meals mEuljiro 4(sa)ga.

n Nightlife

The Griffin Bar

COCKTAIL LOUNGES | A grand piano and suave bartenders in white tuxedos lend a 1920s vibe to this cosmopolitan hotel rooftop bar. Craft cocktails, regular live jazz bands, and a terrace featuring one of the best views of Heunginjimun Gate make this a splendid place to while away an evening. The prices reflect the posh ambiance—expect to pay upwards of ₩20,000 per cocktail. EJW Marriott Hotel Dongdaemun Square Seoul, 279 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2276–3000 wmarriottbonvoyasia.com/r+b/seoul mDongdaemun.

Zoo Sindang

COCKTAIL LOUNGES | Meant to resemble an old-fashioned fortune-telling shop on the outside, this fanciful speakeasy looks like a tropical jungle on the inside. Ferns and flowers cascade from walls and the ceiling, Buddha statues peek out from nooks and crannies, oriental lanterns and rainbow lighting cast an otherworldly glow, and there’s a tropical fish tank suspended above the bar. There are pasta, tapas, and grilled food options, but this place is all about the zodiac-themed cocktail menu, which features a different libation for each sign. Overall, it’s like an Alice in Wonderland adventure for adults. ERoom 6, 63 Heungin-dong, Jung-gu, 1st fl., Dongdaemun P02/2231–1806 wwww.instagram.com/zoosindang_official mSindang.

p Performing Arts

Chungmu Arts Center

ARTS CENTERS | This mixed-use cultural center features small, medium, and large theaters, as well as gallery space showing rotating exhibitions by local artists. Productions vary widely from acclaimed Broadway musicals to orchestral concerts and specialty film festivals. It’s just a few blocks away from Dongdaemun Design Plaza, meaning there are plenty of bars and restaurants in the area for a pre-show refreshment. Parking is available for a fee, but the venue is also easily accessed by subway. E387 Toegye-ro, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2230–6600 wwww.caci.or.kr/caci/main/intro.do mSindang.

b Shopping

HDongdaemun Shopping Complex

SHOPPING CENTER | What started as Asia’s largest single market in 1970 has steadily grown into the vast indoor shopping destination it is today. This 10-story retail behemoth accessible via underground passage from the subway station is filled with a mish-mash of stalls selling everything from clothing, socks, and accessories, to buttons, fabrics, and home goods. There are also more than two dozen cafes and fast-food eateries on site. Most shops are closed on Sunday, except the home goods area open on the first, third, and fifth Sundays of the month. E266 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2262–0114 wwww.ddm-mall.com mDongdaemun.

Dongmyo Flea Market

SECOND-HAND | This quirky weekend market is filled with antiques and retro items spilling out from storefronts onto the sidewalks across from Dongmyo Shrine. Thrifters will love the vintage clothes and shoes, and bargain hunters can score various trinkets, tools, and glassware for just a few thousand won. ESungin-dong, Jongno-gu, Dongdaemun wenglish.seoul.go.kr/dongmyo-flea-market-2 mDongmyo.

DOOTA Mall

MALL | This eight-story mega mall is brimming with more than 500 stores selling the latest fashion trends. An estimated three million foreign visitors a year peruse the mix of luxury boutiques, emerging designers, sportswear, and fast fashion encompassed in this late-night shoppers’ paradise. If you’re looking for the hottest trends in K-style, this is the place to break out your credit card. E275 Jangchungdan-ro, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun P02/3398–3333 wwww.doota-mall.com mDongdaemun.

HGwangjang Market

MARKET | One of the largest traditional markets in the country, Gwangjang Market has become famous over the past few years for its restaurants and street food vendors. While locals go to the market more for the experience than the quality of food, the bindaetteok (fried mung bean pancakes), kimbap (seaweed rice rolls) and hotteok (sweet, sugar-filled pancakes) are snacks worth seeking out. Walk off the calories by browsing the hanbok vendors and vintage clothing shops on the second floor. E88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Yeji-don, Jongno-gu P0202/2267–0291 wwww.kwangjangmarket.co.kr/ mJongno 5–ga Station.

Hello APM

MALL | Mainly geared toward teenagers and early-20-somethings, this mall is overflowing with trendy frocks, candy-colored shoes, glittering baubles, and numerous other frilly accouterments. Everywhere you look you’ll see signs screaming “Sale!” and this mall is indeed known as one of the best places in Dongdaemun to score a bargain. As the name cheekily suggests, the mall is open from am to pm and back again into the wee hours of the morning. Note: most shops carry only women’s clothing, and there are limited options for men. E253 Jangchungdan-ro, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun mDongdaemun History & Culture Park.

Hyundai City Outlets

OUTLET | Hyundai is one of South Korea’s most popular department store brands, and this outlet version offers the previous season’s styles for a deep discount. Men’s, women’s, and kids’ clothing are all available, as are handbags, shoes, beauty products, appliances—you name it. The complex features various cafes and bakeries, and the parking lot has two dedicated female-only floors. E20 Jangchungdan-ro 13-gil, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2283–2233 wwww.ehyundai.com mDongdaemun.

Pyeonghwa Market

MARKET | After the Korean War, North Korean refugees flocked to the Dongdaemun area and built up a thriving textile industry. This low-price shopping destination, named after the Korean word for “peace,” grew from those humble beginnings to what is now the largest wholesale clothing market in Korea. The market is the epitome of fast fashion, with its on-site factory able to design, produce, and distribute up-to-the-minute K-style in a 72-hour window. Since it’s mainly a wholesale market, it’s open overnight to cater to retailers who want to display new trends first thing in the morning. The market is also known for its secondhand book section, featuring tomes in a wide array of languages. E274 Cheonggyecheon-ro, Jung-gu, Dongdaemun P02/2265–3531 wwww.pyounghwa.com mDongdaemun.

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

TOP EXPERIENCES

Barhop: Join the university crowd at the city’s coolest dance clubs, singing rooms, and bars.

Stroll through the park: Gyeongui Line Forest Park was built along train tracks that once led to North Korea.

Get caffeinated: This area has some of the city’s finest coffee. Spend an afternoon cafe-hopping.

Take a dance class: Learn the fundamentals of Korean hip-hop dance at Just Jerk Dance Academy.

Watch live music: Be it on the street, in an independent cafe, or at a concert venue, Hongdae is the place to catch a show.

GETTING HERE

Hongdae is located on the northwestern corner of the city in the Mapo-gu district. From Incheon International Airport, take the express airport railroad or the Gyeongui-Jungang line to Hongik University Station on the Seoul metro. The station is also accessible via Line 2 or you can take the scenic route, and work your way to the neighborhood-center from Hapjeong Station or Sangsu Station on Line 6. There are dozens of buses to take you from one landmark to the next, but everything is very walkable. Alternatively, there is a high concentration of stations to rent a Seoul Bike (Seoul’s bike-sharing system) for ₩1,000 per day.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Hongdae can look quite different depending on what day and time of the week you choose to go. Visit on the weekend to join the crowds for nighttime revelry, or choose an afternoon during the middle of the week if you’re more interested in cultural sights. Note that many places don’t open before 11 am and many restaurants in this area double as bars, meaning they don’t open until 5 pm or later.

PAUSE HERE

Gyeongui Line Forest Park. Visitors to the park typically park outside Hongik University Station, Exit 3, but venture out half a mile north and you’ll experience the park’s more residential side. The walk there is dotted with vibrant yellow gingko trees during the fall and quietly fluttering cherry blossoms during the spring. Unlike other parts of the park that fill up during nicer weather, this end sees grandmas on their afternoon walks and kids walking their dogs after school. At the junction where the park ends, there are a handful of benches situated near a small wine shop called Ggomppani Mart, where you can pick up a picnic basket of wine and snacks for a small outdoor picnic. E129-4, Donggyo-ro 51-gil, Mapo-gu Gajwa Station.

Known for its vibrant and independent spirit, Hongdae is the neighborhood built around Hongik University, the nation’s top arts university. Snapshots of this corner of Seoul often show buskers and live K-pop performers, colorful street murals, and streets packed with partying college students. It caters to young people so much that you might have to show identification at some clubs to verify you’re under 33 years of age.

Hongdae’s age demographic makes its trends all the more susceptible to change, and only a few venues survive beyond the five-year mark. The neighborhood is as fleeting, and as beautiful, as youth itself—begging you to enjoy it while you can. However, there is something for everybody regardless of age. Yes, on weekend nights, the best-known Hongdae streets are full of clubs pumping out music until the wee hours of the morning. But the true gems of the neighborhood are arguably the quieter, overlooked venues with decades of history or local favorites tucked away from the Hongdae center.

If you’re fortunate enough to stay in Hongdae for a few days or more, try to see both sides of the coin. Have the very quintessential Hongdae experience by staying up late and feeling the energy of the crowds on a Saturday night. Get your fill of marinated beef ribs at Korean barbecue restaurant, Cheolkil WangGalbissal. Sit for a while at Hongik Children’s Park, a playground that masquerades as a party platform by night on weekends, or dip into one of the many clubs in the area for a bit of dancing. Belt out some tunes under the disco lights at Luxury Su Noraebang, a neighborhood institution for Korean-style karaoke, and before you call it a night, indulge in a savory, budget-friendly snack of tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) at a pocha (tented stall of street food and alcohol) nearby.

In a neighborhood as transient as Hongdae, pay attention to the bars and cafes that have been around a while. Critics who complain that the neighborhood’s become too commercial still come around to listen to Korean rock music from the 1970s and 1980s at retro bar Gochang Jeongol and meet like-minded friends at Yri Cafe, a long-time gathering place for creatives. Don’t forget to grab a copy of Street H, a free, local zine devoted to Hongdae, while here.

It’s likely that you will also want to visit the neighborhoods bordering the immediate university area. Increasing rent prices as well as the opening of the Gyeongui Line Forest Park to its east and Mangwon Market to its north have revitalized Yeonnam-dong and Mangwon-dong respectively. Both have become hotbeds of small bookshops, cozy cafes, and trendy restaurants worthy of attention.

s Sights

HGyeongui Line Forest Park

CITY PARK | FAMILY | Often likened to New York City’s High Line, the Gyeongui Line Forest Park is a narrow green space that stretches 6.3 km (3.9 miles) over train tracks that once led to North Korea. Train service was suspended in 1951 after the two Koreas divided and the area was mostly urbanized until 2009, when the idea to build the park was greenlit. Today, the park is divided into four main sections, with the section outside Hongdae Station Exit 3 being the most popular. In summer, buskers play guitar on one of the many benches and picnickers laze on the grass with drinks from nearby convenience stores, but the park is busy year-round as it’s surrounded by trendy restaurants and cafes. Venture outside the Hongdae Station area (further outside Exit 3 or Exit 2) for pleasant, little surprises: a row of bookshops, remnants of the old tracks, and meet-ups of neighborhood dogs. E188, Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae mHongik University Station.

Hongik Children’s Park

CITY PARK | More commonly referred to as the Hongdae Playground, this seemingly ordinary park wears many different hats. Its prime location facing the entrance of Hongik University has made it an outdoor performance space, a silent disco stage, a BYOB watering hole, and a marketplace for reasonably priced local art. For this reason, it’s a place that symbolizes youth and individuality for many Seoulites. To catch an event or interesting happening here, try visiting the park on a Friday or Saturday night when crowds of college students are out on the town. Korean drama fanatics may recognize it from popular shows such as Coffee Prince, Bel Ami, and My Golden Life, among others. E19-3, Wausan-ro 21-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae mHongik University Station.

Jeoldusan Martyrs’ Shrine

MONUMENT | With a name that literally means “beheading hill,” this shrine pays tribute to the approximately 8,000 Catholics that were executed for their faith here in 1866. Overlooking the Han River to the West, the shrine’s outdoor space and exhibitions are open to the public. There is an altar for lighting votive candles and a few dozen statues of well-known Catholics like Mother Teresa and Andrew Kim Taegon, the first Korean Catholic priest. There are two exhibit spaces, a museum on the history of the space in the main building, and a nook that showcases the vehicles used to torture Catholics. Religious or otherwise, the space is a sight to behold for its significance in Korean history and sunset views over the Han. E6-1, Tojeong-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/3142–4434 wwww.jeoldusan.or.kr CClosed Mon. mHapjeong Station.

KT&G Sangsang Madang

ARTS CENTER | This seven-story multicultural complex houses several galleries, a concert hall, a movie theater, and a stationery and design store. The building, which stands prominently at the end of Picasso Street, is easily recognizable for its unique, irregular flower-pattern design. Two highlights of the space include the movie theater, which often has art films with subtitles, and the stationery store. The latter is a great place to pick up souvenirs for friends back home. E65, Eoulmadang-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/330–6200 wwww.sangsangmadang.com mHongik University Station.

Mangwon Market

MARKET | Even though it boasts a forty-plus year history, Mangwon Market is one of the lesser known marketplaces in the city. In recent years, it’s become a favorite of many locals in the area for its affordable produce and wide array of delicious, cheap eats. Here you’ll see neighborhood grandmas carrying home dozens of cucumbers or apples, depending on what’s in season, and out-of-town customers lined up at one of the market’s well-known stalls. Look out for these stalls when you visit: Mangwon Sujae Gorokes for Korean-style croquettes, Gyodon Gangjeong and Mangwon Gangjeong for boneless, marinated fried chicken and Mangon Market Kalguksu for a hearty bowl of knife-cut noodles. E7, Mangwon-ro 8-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae mMangwon Station.

Oil Tank Culture Park

ARTS CENTER | FAMILY | One of Seoul’s finest examples of urban regeneration, the Oil Tank Culture Park is an art complex built in five former oil tanks. The oil depot, which originally opened in the mid-1970s, was shut down in 2000 ahead of safety concerns, and after being abandoned for more than a decade, its current iteration was decided on by a public idea contest. Art exhibitions, concerts, and theatrical performances are often held here, but regardless of the park’s schedule, the venue is worthwhile for its unique atmosphere. Take time to explore the outdoor theater built behind T2 tank and don’t miss the chance to take artsy photos at the rooftop opening of T6, a tank that was built from steel plates found on T1 and T2. E87, Jeungsan-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/376–8410 wwww.instagram.com/culturetank mWorld Cup Stadium Station.

War and Women’s Human Rights Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | Founded in 2012, this small museum on the residential end of the Hongdae neighborhood highlights the lives of comfort women—women forced into sexual slavery during World War II, mostly at the hands of Japanese Imperialist soldiers. Upon arrival, visitors are given audio guides (available in English, Korean, and Japanese) that walk them through the various exhibitions of the three-story space in sequential order. While filled with thought-provoking photographs, contemporary artworks, and historical documents that shed light on the atrocities, it’s hearing the testimonies of the halmonis (surviving women, referred to as grandmothers) that truly makes an impression. The even-handed curation also raises awareness of Vietnamese women abused by Korean soldiers and the work that halmonis have done to aid sexual assault victims worldwide. It is a heavy experience, but one that focuses on learning from the women rather than dwelling on the past. E20, World Cup buk-ro 11-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/392–5252 wwww.womenandwarmuseum.net A₩5,000 CClosed Mon. mMangwon Station.

World Cup Park

CITY PARK | Located in Sangam-dong, World Cup Park is a large green space divided into five different parks. Of these, Noeul Park and Haneul Park are considered two of the most picturesque in the city. Both parks are accessible via a climb of nearly 300 steps or a winding, uphill trail but those looking for a less strenuous path can opt for the electric shuttle bus. The maeng-kkongi bus, named after a regional digging frog, departs from the entrance every thirty minutes and is a convenient alternative for those with small children. While the ride is only ten minutes long, it’s a mesmerizing way to take in all the sights at once. Noeul (meaning sunset) Park offers stunning views of the Han River to its West while Haneul (meaning sky) Park is best known as the site of the Seoul Silver Grass Festival every autumn. E86, Haneulgongwon-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/300–5500 mWorld Cup Stadium Station.

r Restaurants

Bokdeokbang

$ | KOREAN | With a seating capacity of 14 to 16, Bokdeokbang is a cozy restaurant that pairs every dish with makgeolli (rice wine). Bokdeokbang’s owner, Kang Sang-gu, handpicks only natural makgeollis (without artificial additives), coming to each table to explain the flavor profiles of each drink; he operates the restaurant with his head chef and mother, who takes a similar organic approach in the kitchen. Known for: natural rice wine; fresh kimchi; seasonal menu. DAverage main: ₩20,000 E5, Poeun-ro 8-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P070/8864–1414 wwww.instagram.com/imkhang9 CClosed Sun. and Mon. mMangwon Station.

HCheolkil WangGalbissal

$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | FAMILY | A long-time favorite of Hongdae partygoers, this Korean barbecue joint nestled alongside the long cheolkil (railroad tracks) focuses on galbi (beef ribs). Cuts of beef in your choice of sweetly marinated or lightly seasoned are cooked over wire mesh grills and served alongside their signature pot of bubbling doenjang-jjigae (soybean paste stew). Known for: gabli (beef ribs); accommodating big groups; late-night hours. DAverage main: ₩18,000 E24, Wausan-ro 32-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P0507/1408–9543 mHongik University Station.

HDdobagi Chicken

$ | KOREAN | With its consistent taste and reasonable prices, Ddobagi Chicken has the respect of fried chicken fanatics the city over. Its close proximity to the Han River means that many order Ddobagi to go and have chicken and beer picnics in the park during summertime. Known for: sweet and spicy, regular, or soy-glazed fried chicken; half and half flavor combos; to-go orders for picnics. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E27, Wausan-ro, Mapo-gu Seoul, Hongdae P02/3142-0991 CClosed Sun. mSangsu Station.

Jopok Tteokbokki

$ | KOREAN | The word “jopok” means “gangster” in Korean, so the owners of this tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) restaurant put up a sign that reads, “We’re run by innocent, average men with no affiliation to gangsters” to quell the rumors. Nonetheless, the catchy name has brought them over twenty years of business, and the restaurant is a student favorite for affordable meals of tteokbokki, Busan odeng (savory fishcakes from the Busan region) and twigeum (a variety of deep-fried vegetables). Known for: spicy rice cakes; open until 4:30 am; university favorite. DAverage main: ₩4,000 E60, Eoulmadang-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/337–9933 mSangsu Station.

Yeongyo Dumpling

$ | CHINESE | Sometimes called Little Chinatown for its ties to the Mandarin- and Cantonese-speaking communities, Yeonnam-dong has a few dozen restaurants that specialize in malatang, xiao long bao, and mapo tofu. Of these, Yeongyo stands out with its extensive menu of dumplings, braised meats, and stir-fried vegetables. Known for: fried pork buns and beef noodles; additional location around the corner; Taiwanese fruit beer. DAverage main: ₩6,000 E252, Donggyo-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P0507/1391–4562 mHongik University Station.

HYeonhui Gimbap

$ | KOREAN | Although the humble gimbap (rice and various fillings wrapped in seaweed) is not typically a dish that one would go out of the way for, Yeonhui Gimbap in its Yeonhui-dong headquarters is worth going the extra mile. Known for its creative fillings like the extra-spicy squid and braised beef in soy sauce, the hole-in-the-wall gimbap joint has locations all over the country thanks to its success here. Known for: gimbap; no seating at this location; cheap and delicious dishes. DAverage main: ₩3,000 E2, Yeonhui-ro 11ga-gil, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul, Hongdae P02/323–8090 CClosed Wed. mHongik University Station.

Coffee and Quick Bites

HAnthracite

$ | CAFÉ | A striking space built from a former shoe factory, this cafe opened its first location in Hapjeong-dong in 2010 and has since developed a reputation for its moody ambiance and aromatic coffees. Today, their signature beans—named after well-known writers Pablo Neruda, Natsume Soseki, and William Blake—can be found at several Anthracites across the city. Known for: “Pablo Neruda” coffee; multiple locations; intimate, quiet setting. DAverage main: ₩4,000 E11, World Cup-ro 12-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/336–7650 wwww.anthracitecoffee.com mMangwon Station.

Coffee Libre

$ | CAFÉ | Opened in 2009, Coffee Libre is a small, independent coffee shop owned and operated by Korea’s first Korean Q-grader, Seo Pil-hoon. Many in the barista community credit Mr. Seo for being one of the first to introduce specialty coffee into the country and consider it a coffee lover’s rite of passage to visit the original Yeonnam-dong location. Known for: espresso, Americanos, and lattes; cozy space; loyal following. DAverage main: ₩4,000 E198, Seongmisan-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P0507/1372–0615 wwww.coffeelibre.kr mHongik University Station.

Greem Cafe

$ | CAFÉ | FAMILY | Inspired by the Korean cartoon W, this small coffee shop was designed to look like a two-dimensional drawing filled with black and white furnishings that resemble something out of an old-time comic strip. Since its opening in 2017, Greem has become an internet sensation that’s been featured in a wide array of media, including the opening scene of Netflix hit To All The Boys: Always and Forever. Known for: comic strip design; macaroons; lattes and chocolate milk. DAverage main: ₩5,000 E161-10, Seongmisan-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P010/2612–8103 wwww.instagram.com/greem_cafe/ CClosed Tues. mHongik University Station.

HVer’s Garden

$ | CAFÉ | Both a flower shop and cafe, Ver’s Garden is a green oasis owned and operated by plant-lover Kim Sung-soo. While floral design changes with the seasons, the two-story space is a constantly growing home to monsteras, ivies, and pilea that offers coffee, herbal teas, and desserts. Known for: coconut milk coffee and teatox tea; ideal remote working space; lots of greenery. DAverage main: ₩5,000 E44, Seongmisan-ro 23-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae wwww.instagram.com/vers_garden CClosed Mon. mHongik University Station.

HYri Cafe

$ | CAFÉ | Though Yri Cafe offers little of the minimalist design and photogenic, colorful drinks that hip, new cafes in the area have begun to specialize in, the venue is one of the few places to encapsulate the independent, down-to-earth spirit of the neighborhood. Offering a simple selection of coffees and teas, the cafe is strewn with hundreds of books and local zines and decorated with portraits of Korean activists and intellectuals. Known for: book talks; coffee; gatherings for creatives. DAverage main: ₩4,000 E27, Wausan-ro 3-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/323–7861 wwww.instagram.com/yricafe mSangsu Station.

h Hotels

Daol Guest House

$$ | B&B/INN | One of the most affordable options for visitors traveling in groups, Daol offers ten rooms near Hongik University Station, including a deluxe quadruple room for four and two family rooms for six. Pros: soundproof rooms with bathroom and kitchenette; social atmosphere with communal rooftop terrace and kitchen; affordable. Cons: not kid-friendly; rooms are not sunny; rooms can feel stuffy. DRooms from: ₩95,000 E212-6, Donggyo-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P010/5872–2238 wwww.instagram.com/daolguesthouse a10 rooms XFree Breakfast mHongik University Station.

Holiday Inn Express Hongdae

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Conveniently located at Hongik University Station Exit 4, this no-frills, clean but basic accommodation has quick and easy access to the airport railroad and subway line 2. Pros: complimentary coffee; 24-hour front desk; trusted brand. Cons: design is not localized; rooms are small; feels a bit generic. DRooms from: ₩79,000 E188, Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/768–3000 wwww.hiex-seoulhongdae.com a294 rooms XFree Breakfast mHongik University Station.

L7 Hongdae

$$ | HOTEL | Opened in 2018, Seoul’s third L7 location is on brand with others in the Lotte chain, known for bringing big design into smaller quarters. Pros: clean and well-maintained; affordable; rooftop pool. Cons: not kid-friendly; rooms are small; no affordable in-house dining options. DRooms from: ₩100,000 E141, Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/2289–1000 wwww.lottehotel.com/hongdae-l7 a340 rooms XNo Meals mHongik University Station.

Mercure Ambassador Seoul

$$ | HOTEL | Travelers will feel well connected to Hongdae’s best shopping streets at this clean, contemporary hotel near Hongik University. Pros: near metro stop; right in the action of Hongdae; restaurant and bar on site. Cons: some small rooms; lacks local flavor; attracts business travelers. DRooms from: ₩92,000 E144, Yanghwa Ro, Mago-gu, Hongdae P02/3774–1101 wall.accor.com/hotel/B696/index.en.shtml a270 rooms XNo Meals mHongik University Station.

Orbit Cafe and Guesthouse

$$ | B&B/INN | One of the prettiest guesthouses in the Hongdae area, Orbit has a distinctly pink and white design, from the duvet to the building’s winding staircase and the bathroom tiles, making it a favorite of aspiring social media stars. Pros: basement cafe; great for privacy; trendy, photo-worthy design. Cons: not easy to find; breakfast has mixed reviews; not cheaper than hotels in the area. DRooms from: ₩88,000 E220-6, Donggyo-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/6405–3440 wwww.instagram.com/orbit_guesthouse a12 rooms XFree Breakfast mHongik University Station.

HRYSE, Autograph Collection

$$$ | HOTEL | This Marriott Autograph Collection hotel, which opened in 2018, is an ideal place for creative types to meet like minded people at some of the area’s sleekest bars and restaurants and less so for groups looking to relax. Pros: great for creatives; well-reputed bars and restaurants on site; vibrant, colorful aesthetic. Cons: public facilities can get crowded; can be loud, even on the upper floors; atmosphere is energetic, not relaxing. DRooms from: ₩220,000 E130, Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/330–7700 wwww.rysehotel.com a272 rooms XNo Meals mHongik University Station.

n Nightlife

BARS

HGopchang Jeongol

BARS | While bars and restaurants that play today’s Korean top hits may be a dime a dozen, Gopchang Jeongol is the rare institution that focuses on Korean rock from the 1970s to 1990s. The bar’s name means “beef tripe hot pot,” but their menu offers little out of the ordinary, including Korean beers by the pitcher, green bottles of soju, and basic cocktails alongside Korean-style fruit salad (a common bar food until the 2000s). The bar retains a charming, old-school feel with a live DJ on weekends, disco lights, and heavy, outdated furniture. Musicians who once ruled Hongdae’s streets come to listen to favorites like the Kim Sisters, Shin Jung-hyun, and Lee Sun-hee. E8, Wausan-ro 29ra-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/3143–2284 mHongik University Station.

Jebi Dabang

BARS | A cafe that transitions into a bar at night, Jebi Dabang is a great place for non-drinkers and drinkers alike to get a feel for Hongdae nightlife. Operated by an architectural studio named CTR that also dabbles in both sound production and publishing, the bar’s name means “Swallows Cafe.” It refers to a salon of the same name that poet Yi Sang opened for intellectuals in the early 20th century. Decorated with books and posters by local artists, Jebi has a counter with a bar and seats perched against a large window on the first floor and a small stage in the basement level that hosts live music concerts. Come for the moka pot coffee; stay for the music. E24, Wausan-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/325–1969 wwww.ctrplus.com/jebi mSangsu Station.

HTokki Bar

BARS | Beloved in the neighborhood, this dark sultry hotel cocktail bar has become locally famous for its gin, soju, beer, and liquor, all made in-house. The team behind the bar aimed to bring a bit of Brooklyn to Seoul, having met in New York, so it’s no surprise you’ll see Italian American classics like chicken parmesan in addition to small bites on their menu. Real partiers can rejoice: Tokki Bar doesn’t close until 6 am. ERYSE, Autograph Collection, 130, Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P022/330–7700 wrysehotel.com/tokki_bar mHongik University Station.

DANCE CLUBS

Brown Seoul/Soul

DANCE CLUBS | Opened in 2012, Brown Seoul/Soul is a hip-hop club recognized by many artists in the community. They play a mix of soul, funk, hip-hop, and R&B—both Korean and Western—and well-known DJs like Soulscape, Mello, and Ghostex spin here on a regular basis. Weekends are packed with dancing partygoers and weekdays are typically more lowkey, making it possible to focus on enjoying the music and cocktails. Brown is the playground for nearby YG Entertainment employees who hang out here on quiet nights, so don’t be afraid to mingle. E16-20, Yanghwa-ro 8-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/3141–2330 winstagram.com/brownsoulseoul mHapjeong Station.

Channel 1969

DANCE CLUBS | Often glowing under sparkly, disco lights, Channel 1969 is a live music venue and alternative music bar/club. On any given night, you could walk in to find an improv comedy set, an indie music performance, or DJ sets with playlists ranging from Bollywood to Afrobeats to psychedelic to J-pop. Drinks are mostly commercial beers and cheap, basic cocktails, and the vibe is very friendly. Although Korean bars are generally considered difficult places to meet new people, Channel 1969 is the rare venue where it doesn’t raise eyebrows to strike up a conversation with a stranger. On summer nights, the bar’s scene spills out into the street where revelers drink and smoke. E35, Yeonhui-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P010/9343–1969 wwww.instagram.com/channel1969.seoul mHongik University Station.

MODECi/ Henz Club

DANCE CLUBS | Two of the hottest clubs to open in the area in the past five years, both MODECi and Henz Club operate out of a five-story building near Hongik University’s main gate and are both run by street apparel brand Henz Clothing. MODECi, located on the building’s fifth floor, focuses on playing hip hop and funk music while Henz, on the basement level, leans toward bass-heavy and lyrical music. With tall windows facing the street and a spacious rooftop, the former is a great option for clubgoers who feel claustrophobic in closed-off spaces and the latter is more of an intense, packed experience for those looking to mingle. E64, Wausan-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae wwww.instagram.com/modeci_seoul mSangsu Station.

Vurt

DANCE CLUBS | One of the edgiest venues in Seoul, Vurt is a techno club that highlights local electronic music DJs and calls itself a music venue with “sounds from the ancient future.” To enter, you have to get past a front door on the first floor and walk down a long corridor in the basement that gives Vurt an authentic underground feel. This is further accentuated with the club’s decor: concrete walls, dim lights, minimal furniture, and a bar tucked in the back. The scene is less friendly than others, but it’s a must-visit for music lovers of this genre of music. E11, Dongmak-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/3142–1356 winstagram.com/vurt_seoul mHapjeong Station.

NORAEBANG

Private singing rooms, called noraebangs, can be found all over South Korea. (Noraebang is a combination of Korean words “norae” for song and “bang” for room.) After entering the establishment and paying, you are led into a room with a large screen attached to a karaoke machine, two or more microphones, and a book full of hundreds of songs. Noraebangs can have varying degrees of respectability, so it’s wise to look for noraebangs that are transparent and above-ground.

HLuxury Su Noraebang

BARS | The country’s most recognizable noraebang has tall glass windows allowing pedestrians to look in on your singing shenanigans and clean, spacious facilities. Thanks to Su Noraebang’s popularity, the area is filled with several similar establishments. E37, Wausan-ro 21-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P070/4405–9971 wwww.instagram.com/sunoraebang mHongik University Station.

p Performing Arts

Rolling Hall

CONCERTS | A concert hall venue with a history that dates back to 1997, Rolling Hall hosts an array of local bands as well as international acts like Grimes, Rhye, and Deerhunter. While they mostly focus on rock, indie, and alternative sounds, it’s not uncommon for jazz quartets or smaller K-pop groups to play here. The venue is equipped with a high-tech lighting system and professional grade, VTX loudspeakers better than most in Seoul. Their occupancy maxes out at 700 guests, and many concerts here are standing room only. E35, Eoulmadang-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/325–6071 wwww.rollinghall.co.kr mSangsu Station.

Sanwoollim Theater

THEATER | Home to the theater company of the same name, Sanwoollim is one of the oldest and most established small theaters in the country. They opened the doors to this Hongdae location in 1985 with the Samuel Beckett play Waiting for Godot and have since developed a reputation for being unafraid to put controversial content on stage. Note that their plays are only in Korean. There is also a cafe that holds events on the first floor and an art gallery open to all on the second floor. E157, Wausan-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/334–5915 wsanwoollim.kr mHongik University Station.

b Shopping

A-Land Hongdae

MIXED CLOTHING | While this lifestyle concept store has branches all over South Korea, the Hongdae location is by far the best known. The five-story building sells accessories as well as both menswear and womenswear. In addition to A-Land brand items, the store features brands from other local designers. The overall style is best described as trendy and edgy. The items are a step up from stores at the nearby Hongdae Shopping Street and as a bonus, the store allows you to try on the items in its many fitting rooms. E29, Yanghwa-ro 16-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/3210–5882 mHongik University Station.

Collect Store

HOUSEWARES | Head to the second floor of the warehouse to find this shop of curated knick-knacks, which sells everything from hand-crafted wooden spoons to vintage china and illustrated postcards. Visitors looking for medium-priced souvenirs can find local ceramics for reasonable prices and have a cup of coffee by the window, as the older couple who run the establishment also sell beverages. E316, Seongsan-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Hongdae P02/6013–9426 wwww.instagram.com/collect.store mHongik University Station.

Homi Art Shop

ART SUPPLIES | One of the best stores in the city for art supplies, Homi Art Shop is a favorite among students at Hongik University. The store has a wide range of products from spray paint to calligraphy brushes and needles for knitting. The prices are reasonable, and there is always a sale bin in the back corner with products up to 80 percent off. Also check out the collection of hanji (traditional Korean paper) on the second floor. E20, Hongik-ro 3-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/336–8181 wwww.homi.co.kr mHongik University Station.

Hongdae Shopping Street

SHOPPING CENTER | Thirty or forty clothing boutiques line two parallel streets approximately a quarter of a mile from Hongik University Station to KT&G Sangsang Madang. While most of the shops focus on trending women’s apparel, there is the occasional secondhand shop and pet goods boutique. It’s easy to tell which stores sell what as many of the shops display half their items out front. You’ll find a range of similar items along the street at varying price points, and most items are not available to try on. Evergreen items like T-shirts and jeans can be a good deal, but beware that these fast fashion items often come apart after a few washes. E20, Hongik-ro, Mapo-gu, Hongdae mHongik University Station.

Somebooks

BOOKS | Located on the first floor of Some Institute of Picture Books, a school dedicated to the crafting of picture books, Somebooks is a gallery and bookstore featuring a compelling collection of works by local artists. The books available for purchase include Korean works in English and Korean as well as foreign titles translated into Korean. Note that the books target adult readers and are not necessarily kid-friendly. E8, Wausan-ro 23-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/322–7331 wwww.somebooks.kr mHongik University Station.

a Activities

ARCHERY

Robin Hood Archery Cafe

LOCAL SPORTS | FAMILY | Did you know South Korea dominates the world of archery, with 26 Olympic gold medals in the sport as of 2021? One place to get a glimpse of Korea’s devotion to the sport is Robin Hood, an archery cafe in Sinchon. Here, visitors can get instruction on how to shoot a bow and arrow and pay for a round of games. Those who have never tried their hand at archery can try the beginner package, which includes a short lesson and 12 practice shots. If you’re confident in the sport, you can pay a little more to be ranked, meaning your score comes up on an electric scoreboard and your name could potentially be put up at the entrance. E32, Myeongmul-gil, Seodaemun-gu, Hongdae P0507/1345–0360 wwww.instagram.com/sinchon_robinhood A₩8,000 for beginner package mSinchon Station.

DANCE LESSONS

Just Jerk Dance Academy

GROUP EXERCISE | While South Korea is most famously known for its K-pop dancing in mainstream culture, there is a thriving subculture of breakdance and hip-hop professionals who train many Korean groups behind the scenes. One such group is Just Jerk, a crew that’s performed alongside PSY, been featured on America’s Got Talent, and danced at the opening ceremony of the 2018 Pyeongchang Olympics. The crew also run a school in Hongdae called Just Jerk Dance Academy where visitors can choose from a range of classes ranging in level of expertise from basic to professional. There are one-time classes for those passing through and regular, more intensive classes for those staying in Seoul for a while. A schedule of classes and instructors is available on their website, so it’s possible to choose your teacher in advance. E31, Jandari-ro 3-gil, Mapo-gu, Hongdae P02/336–2040 wwww.jerkdemy.com A₩30,000 for a one-time class mHapjeong Station.

HANBOK RENTAL

Princess Diary Bridal Cafe

OTHER SPECIALTY STORE | FAMILY | Located near Ewha Women’s University, Princess Diary is a bridal-themed cafe where visitors can drink coffee, try on bridal wear, and take photos. The cafe portion and dress-up sections of the cafe are strictly divided as the staff can be quite strict about keeping the dresses clean. You can choose to pay per dress or buy a package that allows you to try on as many dresses as you like for an hour. Once in the dressing room, the staff helps you pick from dozens of wedding dresses, groomsmen suits, and accessories like tiaras and hats, and aids you in putting them on. Both white gowns typical of Western culture and hanboks, traditional Korean outfits, are available in a range of sizes. The cafe is a favorite among couples celebrating an anniversary or groups of friends having a silly afternoon. E26, Ewhayeodae-gil, Seodaemun-gu, Hongdae P010/2728–2621 wwww.instagram.com/dresscafe_princessdiary mEwha Womans University Station.

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

TOP EXPERIENCES

Visit the world’s highest art gallery: Modern art and birds’ eye views coalesce on the 60th floor of the 63 Square skyscraper.

See the cherry blossoms: The cherry trees in Yeouido’s many parks explode with pink come spring.

Tour a K-Drama set: Visit the set of The Producers at the Korean Broadcasting System HQ.

Shop the country’s largest department store: Hyundai has luxury goods, galleries, and fine dining.

Cruise along the Han River: See the city skyline from a new perspective as you float past.

GETTING HERE

The easiest and fastest way to reach Yeouido from any area of Seoul is via subway. Stops on Yeouido include The National Assembly, Yeouido, and Saetgang stations along line 9, and the Yeouido and Yeouinaru stations on line 5. While the National Assembly station is self-explanatory. For Yeouido Hanang Park, exit at Yeouinaru station; for the heart of the financial district exit at Yeouido. The most southern station, Saetgang, is in a mainly residential area but does provide access to Yeouido Saetgang Ecological Park. Taking the bus is also an option, as eight bridges connect Yeouido to the mainland. From Incheon Airport take the A’REX (Airport Railroad) All-Stop train to the Gimpo International Airport station, then change to either line 5 or 9.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

There is plenty to do in Yeouido, but most visitors will find a day or even an afternoon to be sufficient. Plan at least two hours for a leisurely walk or bike ride through Yeouido Hangang Park, and add another hour if you want to take a river cruise or paddleboat. National Assembly tours take about an hour, as does a visit to the 63 ART Gallery or the KBS On Interactive Media Experience. As for shopping in the massive Hyundai Seoul store, you could easily spend an hour on each floor.

VIEWFINDER

63 Square and Art Gallery. Set on the banks of the Han River, this 249-meter (817-foot) skyscraper was Seoul’s tallest for decades and remains an icon visible from many areas of Seoul. While most floors contain the offices of major finance companies, the 60th-floor 63 Art Gallery has a cafe and tables next to picture windows overlooking the river and city beyond. Book a table at one of the upscale restaurants on the 57th–59th floors for a romantic view of the sunset and city lights after dark. E50 63-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu Bus: 63 Building wwww.63art.co.kr

FKI Tower. Measuring in at 50 floors and 245 meters (804 feet) high, FKI Tower is Seoul’s 8th tallest skyscraper. Vie for a windowfront seat at the 50th-floor All Mornings in the World brunch restaurant or head to the rooftop atrium garden for a stroll high above the city. FKI Tower’s location in the finance district gives you a drone-style view of Yeouido Park, the dome of the National Assembly building, and the Han River beyond. E24 Yeoui-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu Yeouido wwww.fki.or.kr.

Yeouido is an 8.3-sq-km (3.2-sq-mile), yam-shaped island on the Han River in southwestern Seoul. As the capital’s center of politics, finance, and media, Yeouido is a fast-paced, international district known as South Korea’s Wall Street. Not only does it have the National Assembly Building, the Korea Exchange stock market, and the headquarters of prominent media company Korea Broadcasting System, but also some of the city’s best shopping, sky-high views, and riverside parks.

For hundreds of years the island was considered agriculturally useless and uninhabitable since its sandy composition was prone to flooding and was not suitable for growing rice. It was during the Joseon Dynasty that the island was turned into a dedicated farm used to raise sheep and horses to provide fresh meat to the tables of the royal family.

In 1916, during the Japanese occupation of Korea, the empty space of Yeouido was turned into an airport. In 1958, after the Korean War, the Korean government repurposed the island into an air force base. When the base closed in 1971, president Park Chung-hee was determined to turn Yeouido into Seoul’s financial district on par with International Finance Centers such as Wall Street, London, or Hong Kong. Park started a flood control and urbanization project that transformed Yeouido into the city’s main hub of government, finance, and media. Upon completion of the gold-hued 63 Square building in 1985, it was the tallest skyscraper outside of North America (it’s still the world’s highest gold-clad structure). Many other skyscrapers are also located in Yeouido, including the International Finance Center Seoul, Parc 1 Tower, and the Federation of Korea Industries (FKI) Tower—all of which contain restaurants and hotels known for stunning panoramic views.

Yeouido is home to the headquarters of an array of global companies such as LG, KBS, and the Korea Exchange, meaning that many business travelers inevitably find themselves on the island. The business-driven travel to Yeouido makes it the location of major international luxury hotel brands which are worth a splurge if you’re a fan of upscale amenities like pools, spas, and executive lounges. Since most of these hotels are set in high-rises or skyscrapers they also have some of the best views of the Han River and Seoul skyline. Budget travelers, beware that Yeouido doesn’t have any B&Bs, hostels, or guesthouses, although there are a few independent mid-priced hotels.

Despite its business focus, Yeouido is not all work and no play. The compact island is encircled with parks that have walking trails and bike paths, it’s home to the city’s largest department store, and it’s got some of the best views in all of Seoul.

s Sights

National Assembly Building

GOVERNMENT BUILDING | The dome-topped National Assembly Building is the home to the legislative branch of the Republic of Korea’s government. Tours of the capitol, including the Plenary Chamber and Memorial Hall, are offered six days a week and must be scheduled three days in advance. For a last-minute visit, stick to the charming grounds filled with evocative statues depicting various moments in Korean history. E1 Uisadong-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/6788–3656 wkorea.assembly.go.kr AFree mNational Assembly.

SeMA Bunker

ART MUSEUM | With an entrance resembling something from a spy movie, this unique underground museum is set in an abandoned 1970s military bunker that was rediscovered in 2005 during work on a new subway line. Reached via a glass-covered stairway emerging from the side of a multi-lane road (there’s also an elevator), the bunker is now a satellite gallery of the Seoul Museum of Art. The space features a permanent gallery relating to the bunker’s history and an exhibition hall showcasing a rotating array of contemporary art. E76 Basement Yeoui-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/2124–8944 wsema.seoul.go.kr AFree CClosed Mon. mYeouido.

H63 Square and Art Gallery

ART GALLERY | When the 63 Square building was constructed in the 1980s, it was the tallest building in Asia. While it no longer claims that accolade (it now belongs to Dubai’s Burj Khalifa), the gold-tinted, 63-story skyscraper is Seoul’s seventh tallest. The former observation deck on the 60th floor has been converted into the 63 Art Gallery, which claims to be the world’s highest art space. The modern, rotating installations are made all the more striking by the floor-to-ceiling windows with birds’ eye views of the skyline, the Han River, and N Seoul Tower as a backdrop. In addition to the gallery, there’s also a cafe on the 60th floor, while the 57th through 59th floors are home to high-end restaurants. E50 63-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/1833–7001 wwww.63art.co.kr/home/63ART/eng/main.do A₩20,000 mBus: 63 Building.

Yeouido Full Gospel Church

CHURCH | In addition to the government buildings and glitzy high-rises, Yeouido is home to South Korea’s largest megachurch, with over half a million members. Yeouido Full Gospel Church welcomes the faithful and the curious alike to visit, with smiling white-clad ushers directing traffic into the cavernous 12,000-seat sanctuary. While the congregation is mostly Korean, special sections are reserved for foreigners with headsets translating the sermon into English, Spanish, Indonesian, Mongolian, Chinese, and Japanese. E15 Gukhoe-daero 76-gil, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/6181–9191 wenglish.fgtv.com AFree mNational Assembly.

HYeouido Hangang Park

CITY PARK | FAMILY | The most popular park in Yeouido, and indeed perhaps all of Seoul, is Yeouido Hangang Park. Running parallel to the Han River for the full length of the island, the park is dotted with picnic areas, stages, bike paths, and convenience stores for grabbing a Hite beer on a hot summer’s day. Other highlights include a public pool with prime city skyline views and whimsical paddleboats shaped like ducks, but it’s the statue of letters spelling out “I SEOUL U” with a background of the river, the skyline, and N Seoul Tower that draw daily flocks of eager Instagrammers. E330 Yeouidong-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/3780–0561 wwww.ydp.go.kr mYeouinaru.

Yeouido Park

CITY PARK | FAMILY | Yeouido Park bisects the island straight down the middle, creating a welcome pocket of tranquility amid the surrounding high-rises. All backdropped by the Yeouido skyline are walking trails, graceful pagodas, ponds, and cherry trees, as well as more unique features such as a rock acupressure trail, a bronze statue of the 15th-century King Sejong, and a display C-47 plane nodding back to Yeouido’s days as an airfield. E120 Yeouigongwon-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/761–4079 wwww.ydp.go.kr mYeouido.

Yeouido Saetgang Ecological Park

CITY PARK | FAMILY | Running along the diminutive Saet River on the opposite side of the island from the larger Han River, this park is much less crowded than others on Yeouido and is an ideal spot for a peaceful jog or bike ride. The park also serves as a nature reserve for the area’s native wetland plants and offers year-round ecology programs. A popular walking route is across the futuristic Yeouido Saetgang Pedestrian Bridge, which spans the park and a major highway before depositing pedestrians in the Singil neighborhood across the Saet River. E48 Yeouidong-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/3780–0570 mSaetgang.

r Restaurants

HAll Mornings in the World

$ | BISTRO | Set on the 50th floor of the FKI Tower, this see-and-be-seen restaurant made popular in the 2016 K-Drama series W is all about the views. The airy dining room is a mish-mash of glass, whitewashed steel, hanging plants, and a rustic, almost farm-like vibe, made more prevalent by waitstaff dressed in Little House on the Prairie–style garb. Known for: sweeping views of Seoul and the Han River; ample international wine selection; all-day brunch. DAverage main: ₩25,000 EFKI Tower, 24 Yeoui-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, 50th fl., Yeouido P02/2055–4442 wwww.chorokbaemfoodfarm.com mYeouido.

Mariposa

$$$$ | MODERN EUROPEAN | With elegant interiors reminiscent of Belle Epoque Paris, the sumptuous 29th-floor dining room at Mariposa is decorated with motifs featuring its namesake butterfly. Although set within the Fairmont Ambassador Hotel, the restaurant maintains an independent and intimate feel, more so due to its hyper-local tasting menus including abalone and black pork from Jeju Island, beef raised on Jirisan mountain, and fish sourced from the nearby Noryangjin Fish Market. Known for: local and seasonal degustation menus; excellent place to watch the Seoul International Fireworks Festival; huge whiskey selection at the attached M29 bar. DAverage main: ₩345,000 EFairmont Ambassador Hotel, 108 Yeoui-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, 29th fl., Yeouido P02/3395–6000 wwww.fairmont-seoul.com/dining/mariposa mYeouinaru.

Paradiso Cafe

$ | ITALIAN | FAMILY | Although the standard Italian fare at this cafeteria-like spot likely won’t bring Michelin knocking anytime soon, the laid-back eatery is worth a visit simply for the picturesque waterfront location. Set on a platform just offshore and reached by a gangplank-style bridge, the quirky structure randomly topped by a windmill has a three-story dining room, a roomy terrace, and a convenience store known for its tasty fried chicken. Known for: unique overwater location; city reflections on the river at night; duck-shaped paddleboat rentals. DAverage main: ₩27,000 EHangang Citizens Park, 252 Yeouidong-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/447–3333 wwww.hankangwedding.co.kr/dso/include/main.asp mBus: 63 Building.

Ristorante Eo

$$ | ITALIAN | Open by reservation only, this Italian fine-dining restaurant is headed by Korean chef Yun-Kwon Uh, who refined his culinary talent in Italy, most notably at the Four Seasons hotel in Milan. Ingredients are flown in daily, and the focus is on hyper-fresh, simple, and healthy cuisine. Known for: whimsical presentation; splurge worthy; passionate chef. DAverage main: ₩65,000 EHyundai Seoul, 108 Yeoui-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, 6 fl., Yeouido P02/3277–0651 wristoranteeo.modoo.at mYeouinaru.

37 Grill and Bar

$$ | STEAKHOUSE | Like many steakhouses the world over, the 37 Grill and Bar at the Conrad Hotel has dark, plush interiors, an old-world vibe, and a traditional surf and turf menu. What sets it apart is the 37th-floor location that has panoramic views of the Han River, the Seoul skyline, and N Seoul Tower rising up from atop Namsan mountain. Known for: pages-long wine list; great nighttime views of N Seoul Tower; perfectly crusty sourdough bread (which can be hard to find in Seoul). DAverage main: ₩37,000 EConrad Seoul, 10 Gukjegeumyung-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/6137–7000 wwww.hilton.com/en/hotels/selcici-conrad-seoul/dining mYeouido.

Yido Mansion

$$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | The proximity to the National Assembly Building and various other government offices makes this Korean barbecue restaurant a popular lunch and dinner spot for politicians. The understated, art deco-style dining room features gold-tinted accents, marble tabletops, and a menu of prime Korean beef and pork served with the requisite side dishes including kimchi, pickled radishes, bean paste, and whole garlic cloves. Known for: Michelin star rating; superb green onion kimchi; Korean beef flamed with cognac. DAverage main: ₩65,000 E794 Gukhoe-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P10/8233–6634 mNational Assembly.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Bas Burger

$ | BURGER | If you’re in the mood for a juicy cheeseburger and a craft beer after shopping at nearby IFC Mall, head to this popular local chain that’s bathed under neon lights. The trendy spot has a menu aims that aims to excite with experimental choices such as a peanut butter burger and Hawaiian burger loaded with bacon and pineapple. Known for: double Bas burger; milkshake; buffalo fries. DAverage main: ₩12,000 E20 Gukjegeumyung-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/784–6643 wwww.instagram.com/basburger_ mYeouido.

Blue Bottle Yeouido Cafe

$ | CAFÉ | FAMILY | This trendy coffee label from Oakland, California has percolated into South Korea, with its newest location on the fifth floor of the Hyundai Seoul department store. The light-and-tree-filled space with no walls or windows was designed by a landscape architect to give it an outdoor feeling. Known for: using only certified organic coffee; natural, garden-like setting; lightly roasted single-origin beans. DAverage main: ₩5,750 EHyundai Seoul, 22 Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, 5 fl., Yeouido P50/71312–0548 wwww.bluebottlecoffeekorea.com mYeouinaru.

h Hotels

Conrad Seoul

$$$ | HOTEL | Set within the International Finance Center complex in the Yeouido Business District, this sleek 38-story hotel has all the plush amenities you’d expect from an international business hotel chain, such as an indoor pool, a spa, a gym, an executive lounge, and seven restaurants and bars, but the river and skyline views visible from nearly every guestroom and public space of the hotel are what really stand out. Pros: closest 5-star hotel to two international airports; some of the city’s largest rooms; underground connection to IFC Mall and Yeouido subway station. Cons: there’s a fee to use the sauna (though there’s a discount for executive room guests and Hilton Diamond club members); the breakfast buffet can be crowded on weekends; service is sometimes criticized in reviews. DRooms from: ₩367,000 E10 Gukjegeumyung-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/6137-7000 wwww.hilton.com/en/hotels/selcici-conrad-seoul a434 rooms XNo Meals mYeouido.

Fairmont Ambassador Seoul

$$$ | HOTEL | Opened as part of the dynamic new Parc 1 complex, this luxury hotel features bold, sophisticated decor and striking red columns meant to be a modern tribute to traditional Korean architecture. Pros: elegant spa; international brand known for impeccable service; underground pedestrian walkway from Yeouido subway station. Cons: expensive price tag; parking lot is hard to find if you’re driving; check-in can be slow. DRooms from: ₩310,000 E108 Yeoui-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/3395–6000 wwww.fairmont.com/seoul a308 rooms XNo Meals mYeouido, Yeouinaru.

Glad Yeouido

$$ | HOTEL | While many of the hotels in Yeouido exude a serious, business traveler vibe, this one has a youthful, trendy air about it. Pros: across the street from the subway station; rooftop terrace with skyline views; cool speakeasy bar with a secret door. Cons: smaller rooms than nearby hotels; breakfast buffet lacking variety; service at the hotel can vary. DRooms from: ₩100,000 E16 Uisadang-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/6222–5000 wwww.glad-hotels.com/yeouido/index.do a319 rooms XNo Meals mNational Assembly.

Hotel Kobos

$$ | HOTEL | The straightforward lobby, useful room amenities, and convenient location make this hotel a smart economical choice. Pros: on a street with many restaurants, bars, and cafes; guest laundry facilities; less than a block from the National Assembly Building. Cons: no river views; limited breakfast options; bathrooms have no wet and dry separation. DRooms from: ₩75,000 E9 Gukhoe-daero 72-gil, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/7829–0924 wwww.koboshotel.com a79 rooms XNo Meals mNational Assembly.

Kensington Hotel Yeouido

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | This locally owned hotel with a snazzy columned facade and a New York theme is set on a bustling street near the National Assembly Building. Pros: closest hotel to the Yeouido Cherry Blossom Festival; good for families; glitzy executive lounge has a wide range of happy hour options. Cons: very small gym; noise from other rooms can be an issue; old building. DRooms from: ₩119,000 E16 Gukhoe-daero 76-gil, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/6670–7100 wwww.kensington.co.kr/hyd a223 rooms XNo Meals mNational Assembly.

Yeouido Park Centre, Seoul—Marriott Executive Apartments

$$$ | APARTMENT | If you find yourself on an extended business trip in Yeouido this serviced apartment hotel is a good option; its studios and 1- to 3-bedroom apartments have full kitchens and washer/dryers to provide a homey feel, but amenities like a spa, an indoor pool, and a wine bar give it that distinctive “holiday” vibe. Pros: apartments have kitchens and washing machines; luxurious spa and health club; restaurant offers halal food. Cons: Han River views are blocked by other high-rises; small parking lot is cramped; building is on the older side. DRooms from: ₩305,000 E8 Yeoui-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/2090–8000 wwww.marriott.com a103 rooms XNo Meals mYeouido.

n Nightlife

Marcel

BARS | In the basement of the Yeouido Park Centre, Seoul—Marriott Executive Apartments lies this charming French bistro and bar. Decorated with vintage posters, black and white portraits of classic film stars, dripping candles, and fresh flowers, it’s easy to believe you made a wrong turn somewhere and ended up in Montmartre. The cocktail and whisky lineup is substantial while the food menu is limited. It just includes tapas such as prosciutto platters or bruschetta, but who needs food when a chalkboard on the wall declares cheekily that “every empty bottle is filled with stories”? EYeouido Park Centre, Seoul—Marriott Executive Apartments, 8 Yeoui-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, B1, Yeouido P02/70–4179–7509 wmarriott.com mYeouido.

M29 Bar

BARS | Attached to the fine dining restaurant Mariposa within the Fairmont Ambassador Hotel, this sleek and sultry bar is known for its wide whisky selection, excellent cocktails, and views of the Han River. EFairmont Ambassador Seoul, 108 Yeoui-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, 29th fl., Yeouido P02/3395–6000 wwww.fairmont-seoul.com mYeouinaru.

K-Drama Filming Locations s

While K-Dramas have been filmed all over Seoul, especially at major, central landmarks like N Seoul Tower and Gyeongbokgung Palace, Yeouido has drawn more than its fair share of heavy hitter K-Dramas. On your visit, earmark these sights to trace your favorite actors’ footsteps:

Yeouido Hangang Park. It’s no surprise that one of the most popular parks in the city has served as the setting for some of the most well known K-dramas, including Squid Game (2021, episode 2), The King: Eternal Monarch (2020), Wonderful Life (2019), One Ordinary Day (2021), More Than Friends (2020), and more. If you’re here during its annual cherry blossom festival, with strolling couples and picnickers lining the way, you’ll soon see why the filmmakers chose this unforgettable backdrop.

KBS On. Seoul’s main television and broadcasting station is also located in the neighborhood of Yeouido, and it’s here that you can tour the set of the 2015 K-Drama The Producers.

E-Land River Cruise. Another way to soak up the K-Drama? From the water. The TV show My Love From the Star (2015) filmed its wedding party under fireworks during a cruise on the Hangang River. With a dinner cruise aboard E-Land River Cruise ship, you can recreate your own magic.

63 Square. The neighborhood’s stunning gold skyscraper has been the filming location of the TV show Running Man (2011) not to mention some scenes in the Hollywood film Avengers: Age of Ultron (2015), but the building is worth visiting in its own right thanks to its 60th-floor art gallery.

VVertigo

BARS | The trendy ninth floor rooftop bar and lounge is popular with a young professional crowd, and it’s a great spot to catch the sunset and watch nighttime Seoul slowly come to life. The mini-table grills, craft beer, and make your own G&T menu are pluses, with a minus being the hefty price tag (note that it costs more to sit on the cozy sofas than at a regular table). But it’s all about location, thus the expense reflects the sought-after ambiance. EConrad Seoul, 10 Gukjegeumyung-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, 9th fl., Yeouido P02/6137–7000 wwww.hilton.com/en/hotels/selcici-conrad-seoul mYeouido.

p Performing Arts

HSeoul International Fireworks Festival

FESTIVALS | FAMILY | One of the city’s flashiest festivals is the Seoul International Fireworks Festival, held every October. Teams of pyrotechnicians from as far away as Sweden join forces to create an explosive extravaganza that lights up the sky over the Han River. Warning: It gets very crowded. Arrive at the park way before dark if you expect to stake out a prime viewing spot, or book ahead at one of the many top-floor restaurants or bars, such as Mariposa or VVertigo, for the best seats in Yeouido. EYeouido Hangang Park, 330 Yeouidong-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P1330 Korean Travel Hotline wwww.ydp.go.kr AFree mYeouinaru.

Youngsan Art Hall

CONCERTS | This elegant concert space is one of Seoul’s most beloved chamber music halls. The oak floors and marble walls were designed by preeminent Japanese acoustic technicians, and the hall also contains the first Rieger pipe organ to be installed in a concert hall in Korea. Near daily classical concerts are on offer. EKookmin Ilbo Building, 101 Yeouigongwon-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/6412–3053 wwww.youngsanarthall.com/rb A₩20,000 mNational Assembly.

HYeouido Spring Flower Festival

FESTIVALS | FAMILY | Each April as Yeouido comes alive with the rosy hues of azalea, forsythia, and fluffy cherry blossoms, the Yeouido Spring Flower Festival is held to celebrate the beautiful annual event. The 1,641 blossoming cherry trees create a canopy of pink along the road between Hangang Park and the National Assembly Building and is Seoul’s most famous avenue for blossom spotting. Although the king cherry trees are the stars of the show, the festival also includes street food vendors, kids’ activities, and music and dance performances. EYeouiseo-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P1330 Korea Travel Hotline wblossom.or.kr AFree mNational Assembly.

b Shopping

HHyundai Seoul

DEPARTMENT STORE | Opened in 2021 as part of the Parc 1 mixed-use complex, the Hyundai Seoul is the largest department store in the country with an area covering approximately 13 football fields. Not only is it a haven for shopping enthusiasts with its five floors of on-trend fashion and luxury labels, but the sleek, design-forward space also features 90 restaurants, a hanging garden, and a gallery with more than 200 works. E108 Yeoui-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/767–2233 wwww.thehyundaiseoul.com mYeouinaru.

IFC Seoul

MALL | This polished mall is set in the three basement levels of the International Finance Center and is connected to the subway station via an underground walkway—a real godsend if you’re visiting Seoul during a frigid winter or the dog days of summer. While the mall features a pretty standard lineup of coffee shops, fast food eateries, and cosmetic and fashion brands, it’s also known for hosting Hallyu events such as K-Drama movie premiers in its 4D theater. EInternational Finance Center, 10 Gukjegeumyung-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/6137–5000 wwww.ifcseoul.com mYeouido.

a Activities

E-Land Cruise, Yeouido

CRUISES | Leave the skyscraper observation decks behind in favor of a Han River cruise. Sip a cocktail as you float along the Korean peninsula’s fourth longest river and watch Seoul’s skyline pass peacefully by. Options run the gamut from basic to pricey, an example of the latter being moonlight dinner cruises complete with a full bar and buffet dinner. Nighttime cruises also have the added bonus of passing by the Moonlight Rainbow Fountain on Banpo Bridge, which is officially the world’s longest bridge fountain, according to the Guinness Book of World Records. E290 Yeouidong-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/6291–6900 wwww.elandcruise.com AFrom ₩17,000 mYeouinaru.

HKBS On Interactive Media Experience

SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS | FAMILY | The Korean Broadcasting System (KBS) is the country’s main television and radio broadcaster, and its headquarters have been based in Yeouido since the 1970s. Visitors can learn about the history of broadcasting at the KBS ON exhibition hall, catch a musical performance at KBS Hall, play out their newscaster fantasies by taking the stage at the 9 O’clock News Anchor Experience Hall and Virtual Studio, or tour the set of the 2015 K-Drama The Producers which was filmed at the Yeouido KBS site. It’s a fun spot for kids with the interactive exhibits, and you can watch live radio broadcasts through glass windows. Individual and group tours are offered but must be booked five days in advance. E13 Yeouigongwon-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Yeouido P02/781–2224 woffice.kbs.co.kr/kbson AFree mNational Assembly.

Soo Fitness and Spa

SPAS | Though set inside the Yeouido Park Centre, Seoul—Marriott Executive Apartments, non-guests can also book beauty treatments at this elegant spa. The health club features an indoor pool, a big gym, male and female saunas, screen golf, and a squash court. The spa offers a great variety of facials and massages, including a few options utilizing local ingredients such as Korean seaweed. EYeouido Park Centre, Seoul—Marriott Executive Apartments, 8 Yeoui-daero, Yeongdeungpo-gu, 2B, Yeouido P02/209–0860 wwww.measeoul-soofitnessspa.com AFrom ₩66,000 mYeouido.

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

TOP EXPERIENCES

Dance the night away: Show off your moves at the clubs along Itaewon’s main street, where you can find everything from the mainstream to the uber-niche.

Taste a world of flavors: This part of town has a diverse range of cuisines, partly why it’s known as the international district.

Museum hop: You could spend an entire afternoon at just the National Museum of Korea, but from there you can also choose from a long list of great nearby museums.

View the city from above: The N Seoul Tower is a bit of a cliché Seoul experience, but who doesn’t love a good cliché every once in a while?

Get boozy: From craft beers to traditional Korean liquor, the Itaewon area is the perfect place for connoisseurs of a good buzz.

GETTING HERE

Perched above the Han River, Itaewon is located in the center of the city in the Yongsan-gu district, a midpoint between northern and southern Seoul. The main areas of Yongsan are along the metro Line 6 on Samgakji Station, Noksapyeong Station, Itaewon Station, and Hangangjin Station. From Incheon International Airport, take an airport bus (your best bet), or take the metro express airport railroad to Gongdeok Station and transfer to Line 6. Note that in this part of town it’s notoriously difficult to get a cab, especially if you’re hoping for one after midnight.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

With clubs specializing in everything from hip-hop to EDM, the Itaewon area is a great place to spend nights. Start with an afternoon coffee in one of the nice cafes in Hannam-dong or Samgakji, indulge in a Western-style dinner, and have a few drinks. Cocktails, craft beer, and Korean-style bars in this area typically stay open until the wee hours of the morning.

VIEWFINDER

Itaewon Bugundang Historical Park. Yongsan-gu’s best spot for panoramic views of Seoul aren’t up N Seoul Tower but in this small park slightly uphill from Itaewon Station. Although locals rarely know it by name, Itaewon Bugundang Historical Park is a place where many residents come to take photos or just think on solitary strolls. There is a small shrine mostly closed to the public and a memorial to Independence fighter Yu Gwan-soon whose remains were buried, and lost, in this part of town. It’s a relatively small park and the viewpoint looking West won’t be hard to spot. E33, Noksapyeong-daero 40da-gil, Yongsan-gu

Often considered Seoul’s international hub, Itaewon is synonymous with diversity in the eyes of many Koreans. It’s a place where speaking English doesn’t turn heads, American comfort foods are done well, and bars serve craft beer and host trivia nights. It’s also filled with kebab stands, Middle Eastern restaurants, and is home to Seoul’s Central Mosque—and one of the few neighborhoods in the city where many venues openly champion LGBTQ+ rights. While Itaewon and its neighboring districts have seen dramatic changes in the past few years, it remains one of the best examples of global living in Seoul.

Much of Itaewon’s reputation comes from the district’s proximity to the nearby Yongsan Garrison where U.S. military forces were stationed until 2018. While there were stereotypes of Itaewon being a “dangerous place to visit” for many years, the perception of the neighborhood has vastly changed in the past decade thanks in large part to Korean diaspora from abroad, Korean television shows, and shifting attitudes about diversity overall. As a result, there’s been an outpouring of Koreans from all different corners of the city coming to Itaewon for the food and nightlife.

From bars to dance clubs and late-night restaurants, nightlife is a crucial part of what makes Itaewon Itaewon. Just ten years ago, Itaewon was better known for pubs and questionable bars; today, it’s a hotbed of edgy cocktail bars and trendy hip-hop clubs. Visit the clubs on the main Itaewon strip behind Itaewon Station Exit 1 and 2 for commercial music and socializing, and head in the opposite direction to dance to the beat of forward-thinking DJs. East of Itaewon Exit 3 is the famous home of “The Hill,” a gay-friendly part of Seoul with several gay bars and clubs.

For daytime events, look just outside the Itaewon center and into the other parts of Yongsan-gu. Gyeongnidan-gil and Haebangchon are great places to grab a meal, discover a cute cafe, and sit down with a drink. Take the obligatory hike up (or taxi up) Namsan Mountain and admire the celebrated views from N Seoul Tower. You’ll find that the little mountain, spread out across several Seoul districts, is full of surprises including cherry blossoms in the spring and leaves of red and yellow in the fall.

Wholesome activities don’t have to stop there. The War Memorial of Korea, National Museum of Korea, and National Hangeul Museum are three indoor sights where you could easily spend the whole day with your family. Additionally, the Amorepacific Museum and Leeum Samsung Museum of Art in Ichon and Hannam-dong respectively are musts for lovers of contemporary art.

You’ll find that much of the Yongsan-gu area is constantly evolving. Hannam-dong, just East of Itaewon, is filled with boutiques highlighting local designers and Korean restaurants getting creative with traditional recipes. In 2021, Samgakji began to catch the eye of entrepreneurs and is progressively becoming the latest cool place to hang out. Don’t be afraid to strike up a conversation with a barista or bartender, and go off book.

s Sights

Amorepacific Museum of Art (APMA)

ART MUSEUM | Both traditional and hyper-modern art is the focus at this museum, which showcases one topic or artist at a time. Past exhibitions have highlighted abstract expressionist Mary Corse, sculptor Lee Bul, and graphic artist William Kentridge. Located in Yongsan’s striking Amorepacific Headquarters designed by architect David Chipperfield, the museum first began with the private collection of the conglomerate’s CEO, Suh Sungwhan. Also on the premises is a library called apLAP containing 10,000 catalogs of exhibitions from all over the world, plus a gift shop and a number of cafes and restaurants. E100, Hangang-daero, Yongsan-gu P02/6040–2345 wapma.amorepacific.com AFrom ₩10,000 CClosed Mon. mSinyongsan Station.

Leeum Samsung Museum of Art

ART MUSEUM | Operated by the Samsung Foundation of Culture, the Leeum Museum is named after Lee Byung-chul, the conglomerate’s founder. With the stated goal of becoming a museum where “we ponder the future based on our understanding of the past and present,” Leeum has two main sections, one devoted to traditional Korean art and another devoted to contemporary, international artists like Damien Hirst, Andy Warhol, and Donald Judd. The buildings, designed by Mario Botta and Jean Nouvel respectively, are both architectural marvels. Also on the premises are a cafe, gift shop, and an education and culture center for children. E60-16, Itaewon-ro 55-gil, Yongsan-gu P02/2014-6900 wwww.leeum.org A₩15,000 CClosed Mon. mHangangjin Station.

N Seoul Tower

OBSERVATORY | FAMILY | One of the most recognizable landmarks of Seoul, the N Seoul Tower is a 777-foot tower that opened to the public in 1980. Also known as Namsan Tower for its location atop Namsan mountain, the cultural complex can be reached by bus or via a relatively easy hike up the mountain. The Tower includes a French restaurant called n.Grill that rotates, an observatory with panoramic views of the city on the 4th and 5th floors, and a few cafes and souvenir shops. Highlights of the space include a site for “love” locks (padlocks placed here by couples for good luck) in the outdoor space surrounding the Tower, signs on the observatory glass that point you toward cities across the world, and two digital telescopes that allow you to zoom in at 36 times strength. E105, Namsangongwon-gil, Yongsan-gu P02/3455–9277 wwww.nseoultower.com AFrom ₩16,000.

Namsan Park

MOUNTAIN | Seoul’s largest park once anchored the southern end of the city. As Seoul grew southward, however, it soon became the city’s most central park. Encompassing Namsan mountain and the surrounding area, Namsan Park is crisscrossed with rubberized walking trails and full of trees, wildflowers, and—in the warmer months—swarms of pedestrians. Still, it is worth a visit to see some of the greenery and sites such as the old Fortress Wall, the botanical gardens, and the Seoul Science Center. The highlight is definitely N Seoul Tower, a needle-like tower with excellent night views of the entire city. E105, Namsangongwon-gil, Yongsan-gu.

National Hangeul Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | FAMILY | Located on the National Museum of Korea grounds, the National Hangeul Museum opened in 2014 with the aim of promoting the Korean language, often thought to be the country’s most prized cultural asset. The museum’s permanent exhibition is devoted to the Hunminjeongeum, a document drawn up by King Sejong in 1446 detailing the script for the language. Past special exhibitions at the museum have covered everything from calligraphy to women’s songs. Although it may seem a bit dry, the museum has many visual and interactive elements to keep visitors interested. Explanatory text is generally available in English and Korean. Guided tours of the museum take place on Wednesday at 2 pm and 3 pm. E139, Seobinggo-ro, Yongsan-gu P02/2124–6200 wwww.hangeul.go.kr AFree CClosed Sat. mIchon Station.

HNational Museum of Korea

HISTORY MUSEUM | For anyone who wants to become better acquainted with Korea’s unique history, culture, or arts the National Museum is the museum to visit. The sixth largest in the world, any of the 13,000 works of art permanently on display could stand impressively on its own.

By following the chronologically arranged path, visitors get a sense of not only the depth and beauty of Korean culture, but also how it evolved over the centuries. In addition to the expansive permanent collection, the museum hosts impressive special exhibitions as well. For those wanting more information about the works and periods of Korean history, the museum offers “smart curators” (digital tablets that offer audio explanations and more) and guided tours in English for groups. E137, Seobinggo-ro, Yongsan-gu P02/207–79000 wwww.museum.go.kr AFree mIchon Station.

Seoul Central Mosque

RELIGIOUS BUILDING | Of the sixteen mosques in South Korea, the Seoul Central Mosque is also the only mosque in the capital and the best-known in the country. Built in 1976, the mosque is home to the Korean Muslim Federation and is a great resource for Islamic living in Korea. In addition to the unique architecture of the building, which is visible from a distance, visitors who venture inside will see the mosque’s several rooms for worship, prayers, and meetings. There are official prayer services held throughout the week. The Mosque is open to visitors, but visitors must wear ready-made coverings available in the lobby and refrain from taking photos inside the prayer room. E39, Usadan-ro 10-gil, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P02/793–6908 wwww.koreaislam.org mItaewon Station.

The War Memorial of Korea

HISTORY MUSEUM | More than any other event, the Korean War has defined the country’s recent history. The War Memorial of Korea focuses on exploring and depicting this war, as well as the others in Korea’s history. Outdoors, there are fighter jets and artillery alongside sculptures expressing the hope of reunification and peace. Inside, the museum’s exhibitions span the history of warfare in Korea, with an obvious focus on the (technically ongoing) Korean War. The historical exhibition halls are an interesting view into ancient and medieval warfare, while the more modern ones give a sense of Korea’s difficult 20th century history. As is often the case with war museums, this one is sobering but the message presented is that of hope for a peaceful future. E29, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu P02/709–3139 wwww.warmemo.or.kr AFree CClosed Mon. mSamgakji Station.

r Restaurants

Casablanca

$ | MOROCCAN | Often at the top of lists ranking the best foreign food in Seoul, Casablanca is a Moroccan sandwicherie that serves shakshuka, salads, and soups in addition to sandwiches. Although all of their sandwiches are delicious, the lamb chili with spiced lamb, tomato, and lettuce served on a baguette is a neighborhood favorite. Known for: lamb chili sandwich; second location, Cafe Morococo, across the street; the nicest owner. DAverage main: ₩9,000 E35, Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P02/797–8367 wwww.facebook.com/CasablancaSandwicherie CClosed Mon. mNoksapyeong Station.

Eongteoli Fried Chicken

$ | KOREAN | A fried chicken and beer joint that’s been in operation since 1996, Eongteoli Fried Chicken serves classic, Korean-style fried chicken. While they also have spicy Korean-style sea snail salad on the menu, the signature is the extra crispy namesake, a whole chicken cut up in pieces with a thick, slightly-salted crust. Known for: crispy chicken; divey, hole-in-the-wall chic vibe; tangy dipping sauce. DAverage main: ₩17,000 E38-1, Hoenamu-ro, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P02/790–7737 mNoksapyeong Station.

Gino’s NY Pizza

$ | PIZZA | Opened by New York transplant Eugene Kim in 2015, Gino’s NY Pizza serves authentic New York–style pizza pies. Signature pies include the Brooklyn’s Best (Italian sausage, red onions, parmesan, and fresh basil on plum tomato sauce) and the New York Supreme made with roasted garlic. Known for: garlic knots; weekend favorite; “Brooklyn’s Best Pizza”. DAverage main: ₩19,000 E46, Noksapyeong-daero 40-gil, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P0507/1403–2234 wwww.instagram.com/ginospizza mNoksapyeong Station.

Linus’ Bama Style Barbecue

$ | BARBECUE | While an Alabama-style barbecue restaurant may seem out of place in the middle of Seoul, the offers at Linus are so good that many believe it’s a step above, even by American standards. Opened by Linus Kim in 2014, the restaurant has essentials like pulled pork, brisket, and spare ribs as well as Southern comforts like deep-fried okra and macaroni and cheese. Known for: the city’s most popular American-style barbecue; pulled pork; tangy sauce. DAverage main: ₩16,900 E136-13, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P02/790–2920 wwww.instagram.com/linusbbq CClosed Sun. mItaewon Station.

HMongtan

$$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | A popular Korean barbecue restaurant near Samgakji Station, sophisticated Mongtan produces their unique flavor by pre-cooking meat over straw before the final finish on a pan grill. There is an in-house butcher of sorts, and visitors can watch as their cuts of meat are pulled from the fridge and scored before cooking. Known for: woodae-galbi (aged, bone-in beef ribs); worth the wait; samgyeopsal (pork belly). DAverage main: ₩30,000 E50, Baekbeom-ro 99-gil, Yongsan-gu P0507/1418–8592 mSamgakji Station.

n.Grill

$$$$ | FRENCH FUSION | Dining at this rotating restaurant at the very top of N Seoul Tower is mostly about the 360-degree views and sophisticated ambience, but the French-Korean cuisine is also decent, if pricey. Multi-course meals include an amuse bouche, main, and dessert; dishes could include seabass with bouillabaisse, Korean steak, and lobster thermidor. Known for: panoramic views; refined, artfully presented dishes; upscale service. DAverage main: ₩130,000 EN Seoul Tower, 105, Namsangongwon-gil, 7th fl., Yongsan-gu P2–3455–9297 wwww.ngrill.co.kr xPrice includes admission to the observatory.

HParc

$ | KOREAN | This casual Korean eatery takes the statement “mother’s cooking is best” to a whole other level. Opened in 2013, Parc combines Korean home cooking, inspired by the owner-chef’s mother, with modern aesthetics. Known for: 7 namuls platter; banchan (side dishes); galbi (grilled beef ribs). DAverage main: ₩13,000 E26-5, Itaewon-ro 55ga-gil, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P0507/1409–2022 wwww.parcseoul.com mHangangjin Station.

Plant Cafe Seoul

$ | VEGETARIAN | One of the first well-known Western-style vegan restaurants in Seoul, Plant opened in 2013 as the brainchild of former designer and blogger Mipa Lee. Although Plant was first a small cafe for baked goods, its popularity from vegans and non-vegans alike has helped grow the menu and the space. Known for: 100% plant-based menu; desserts; hummus and roasted squash salad. DAverage main: ₩11,000 E117, Bogwang-ro, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P02/749–1981 wwww.plantcafeseoul.com mItaewon Station.

Root Everyday

$ | SANDWICHES | While a delicious and hearty salad can be difficult to come by, one place that does it right is Root Everyday, a salad cafe that also makes sandwiches, soups, and rolls. Their salads center proteins like chicken, salmon, and tofu with two favorites being the shrimp poke bowl and the Thai steak bowl. Known for: fresh, light dining; root avocado roll; shrimp poke bowl. DAverage main: ₩9,500 E26-4, Itaewon-ro 55ga-gil, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P0507/1330–9505 wwww.instagram.com/rooteveryday CClosed Mon. mHangangjin Station.

Summer Lane

$ | AUSTRALIAN | One of the best places for Western-style dining, Summer Lane is an Australian, all-day brunch eatery located in the backroads of Hannam-dong. Popular menu items include the bacon waffle eggs benedict, smashed avocado, and the DIY option which allows you choices of sourdough bread, eggs any way, tomatoes, spinach, and bacon among others. Known for: flat white; opens early, at 7:30 am (a rarity); bright decor. DAverage main: ₩18,000 E49, Itaewon-ro 55ga-gil, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P02/792–8114 wwww.instagram.com/summerlane_brunch mHangangjin Station.

Coffee and Quick Bites

HBerkeley Coffee Social

$ | CAFÉ | A neighborhood institution better known for its friendly staff and welcoming space than its coffee per se, Berkeley Coffee Social offers Americanos, lattes, and a few non-caffeinated options. There is a wide communal table for remote workers looking to get some work done and couch seats for getting in some leisure time. Known for: macadamia nut latte; relaxing atmosphere; dog-friendly. DAverage main: ₩4,000 E17, Hoenamu-ro 13ga-gil, Yongsan-gu P02/792–2048 wwww.facebook.com/berkeleycoffeesocial mNoksapyeong Station.

Champ Coffee

$ | CAFÉ | A well-known name in Korea’s coffee industry, Champ Coffee has several locations in Seoul, including this small cafe in the backstreets of Itaewon. Their standard Americano is perfect for anyone who appreciates medium-dark beans without any acidity, but they are best-known for their rich and creamy lattes. Known for: Queens Coffee (espresso with berry syrup); more to-go than sit-down; cookies. DAverage main: ₩4,000 E121, Usadan-ro 10-gil, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P010/5269–4931 wwww.champcoffee.com CClosed Sun. mItaewon Station.

Hell Cafe

$ | CAFÉ | A fiery name for a memorable coffee, Hell Cafe is located off the beaten path in Bogwang-dong. The cafe gets its reputation thanks to its owner, Kwon Yo-seop, a barista famed for his drip coffee. Known for: classic cappuccino; tiramisu; “Hell drip” coffee. DAverage main: ₩5,000 E76, Bogwang-ro, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P070/7604–3456 wwww.hellcafe.co.kr mItaewon Station.

h Hotels

Banyan Tree Club And Spa

$$$$ | RESORT | Located atop Namsan mountain, these luxury quarters are accommodations for a different style of vacation—the one where you never leave the premises. Pros: renowned in-house spa and pool; rooms are luxurious and thought-through; plush bedding. Cons: more expensive than most hotels in the area; hard to get to; remote location is not conducive to sightseeing. DRooms from: ₩738,000 E60, Jangchungdan-ro, Jung-gu, Jung-gu P02/2250–8000 wwww.banyantreeclub.com a50 suites XNo Meals mBeotigogae Station.

Grand Hyatt Seoul

$$$ | HOTEL | A 5-star hotel with an established reputation, Grand Hyatt Seoul is on the Itaewon side of Namsan mountain and has spectacular views of either N Seoul Tower or the Han River. Pros: facilities include a pool, ice skating rink, and spa; rooms larger than most; easy walk to Namsan hiking trails. Cons: public transportation is far; not integrated with the neighborhood; design lacks a local flavor. DRooms from: ₩300,000 E322, Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P02/797–1234 wwww.instagram.com/grandhyattseoul a602 rooms XNo Meals mItaewon Station.

HGrand Mercure Ambassador Hotel and Residences Yongsan

$$$ | HOTEL | Located near Yongsan Station, the Grand Mercure is the luxury option of the hotels at Seoul Dragon City, an accommodations complex (or hotelplex) made up of three hotel brands at four different price points. Pros: pet-friendly; spa on site; pool is free with a stay. Cons: hotelplex system can be confusing for some; area feels closed in by other hotels; kitchenette is limited. DRooms from: ₩300,000 E95, Cheongpa-ro 20-gil, Yongsan-gu P02/2223–7500 wsdc-club.com/ko/index.php a202 rooms XNo Meals mYongsan Station.

Hamilton Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | This reliable hotel in front of Itaewon Station is perfect for visitors looking for easy access to Western comforts and for those who prefer to be close to Itaewon nightlife. Pros: pool known for parties; neatly kept; prime location. Cons: decor is bland; noise from the street can leak into rooms; lacking facilities for families. DRooms from: ₩110,000 E179, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P02/3786–6000 wwww.hamilton.co.kr a162 rooms XNo Meals mItaewon Station.

IP Boutique Hotel

$$$ | HOTEL | Like a higher-end and more restrained version of Korea’s motels (with their over the top designs), the IP’s eye-catching decor makes for a fun and unique stay. Pros: playful design; some rooms have great views; located near some of Seoul’s best nightlife.

Cons: furnishings have become a bit worn; decor may be too colorful for some; Korean motels are half the price. DRooms from: ₩220,000 E221, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu P0507/1484–8001 wwww.instagram.com/imperialpalaceboutiquehotel a133 rooms XNo Meals mItaewon Station.

HMondrian Seoul Itaewon

$$$ | HOTEL | A major overhaul of the well-known Capital Hotel resulted in this boldly designed Mondrian in 2020, and along with it posh facilities like a rooftop pool, Mediterranean restaurant, and bar. Pros: renowned rooftop pool; trendy design; posh retail stores on site. Cons: service can be hit or miss; rooms are smaller than average; design can be overwhelming. DRooms from: ₩240,000 E23, Jangmun-ro, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P02/2076–2000 wko.sbe.com/hotels/mondrian/seoul a295 rooms. XNo Meals mNoksapyeong Station.

n Nightlife

Itaewon is known for its edgy, international nightlife scene, particularly for its cocktail bars and craft beer joints. It’s also known for being one of the few places in Seoul that is LGBTQ+ friendly, with plenty of options in a section of town dubbed “The Hill.”

BARS

Casa Corona

BARS | Calling itself an “urban oasis in the middle of Seoul,” Casa Corona is a rooftop bar with beachy decor. It’s particularly popular in warmer months, when most visitors prefer to sit outdoors. There are several tables also accommodating large groups. The menu features a long list of liquor (available by the glass and by the bottle), signature cocktails, and a handful of quick bites. DJs play live sets during the weekend and occasionally, there is live music, mostly jazz bands. E7, Bogwang-ro 60-gil, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P070/4105–2234 wwww.instagram.com/casacoronaseoul mItaewon Station.

Glam Lounge (District)

COCKTAIL LOUNGES | Consistently one of the busiest spots in Itaewon, District is really three venues in one building—a pub, chilled-out DJ lounge, and club. Each area has a different feel, ranging from the relaxed pub atmosphere to the beats of the club. Of the three venues, Glam Lounge is the most upscale with an offering of various cocktails and bottle service. The decor is gaudy and the crowd is slightly older, and more likely to socialize, than others in the area. E26, Itaewon-ro 27ga-gil, Yongsan-gu P02/796–6853 wwww.districtglam.com mItaewon Station.

HMagpie Brewing Co.

BREWPUBS | A local institution for craft beer, Magpie was founded in 2011 and kicked off South Korea’s craft beer revolution. Their signature beers include the Magpie IPA, Porter, and Stout, but in recent years, they’ve become well known for their more experimental drinks such as the Juicybox (sour ale with cherry and guava) and Sounds Good (a hazy IPA with Jeju Hallabong). Their space is divided into a basement bar and a ground-level space which opens up to the street. There are a few food items on the menu, including a range of delicious pizzas. With Magpie beer sold at bars and restaurants across the country, it’s quite famous and it’s not uncommon for residents of the neighborhood to stop by casually for a bite and a beer after work. E244-1, Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P0507/1328–2703 wwww.magpiebrewing.com mNoksapyeong Station.

Mr. Ahn’s Craft Makgeolli

BARS | Although makgeolli (Korean rice wine) is typically known as the common man’s drink, Mr. Ahn’s Craft Makgeolli is anything but down-to-earth. The bar is entered through a private garden off the main street of Gyeongridan and the mostly black decor attenuates the sizable, communal table adorned with flowers at the center. The menu is seasonal and features only high-end, organic wines, offering pairings with elevated Korean dishes. The portions are small, and the prices are higher than average, but the bar’s posh take on Korean food and drink makes it worth it. E3, Hoenamu-ro, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P010/9965–5112 wwww.instagram.com/ahn.mak mNoksapyeong Station.

HPussyfoot Saloon

BARS | Opened in 2018, this upscale bar in Hannam-dong is inspired by vintage train travel, where everything from the drinks to the decor would be right at home on a first-class carriage. Sit at the bar and have a chat with the bartenders if you’re having a drink on your own, or opt for a seat in the courtyard if you’re out with friends on a summer night. The bar’s signature cocktails—the Ramos Gin Fizz, Jimmy Roosevelt, and Breakfast Martini—are creative takes on crowd favorites. Make sure to order from the food menu as the dishes here, such as crispy bacon, deep-fried shrimp sandwich, and crab cakes, are a step above the ordinary. E7-6, Daesagwan-ro 31-gil, Yongsan-gu P02/792–5945 wwww.instagram.com/pf.saloon mHannam Station.

Southside Parlor

BARS | Originally founded by three friends from Texas, Southside Parlor started as a small taco truck before becoming an internationally recognized bar topping “best bar” lists all over the world. The two-story space with a rooftop view of N Seoul Tower has great cocktails, a long-list of bar foods (tacos, burgers, and nachos) and hookahs on the menu. With a dart board in one corner and a retro Street Fighter arcade in another, the space has an American feel. Everyone on staff speaks English and 1990s hip-hop plays through the speakers. With regular trivia nights and burlesque shows, Southside is a bit of home away from home for anyone craving a bit of the United States on their Korea travels. E218, Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P02/749–9522 wwww.instagram.com/southsideparlor mNoksapyeong Station.

DANCE CLUBS

Cakeshop

DANCE CLUBS | This landmark club in Itaewon is one of the most established names in hip-hop nightlife in Seoul. Many would even credit the opening of Cakeshop to shifting the nightlife center away from Gangnam and into Itaewon. A basement space with a capacity for up to 200 guests, Cakeshop hosts a range of musical guests from Kode9 to FKJ (French Kiwi Juice) and has often hosted afterparties for bigger festivals. Local music lovers in Seoul might argue that Cakeshop’s prominence over the years has caused it to lose a certain edginess, but the club is still a good bet if you’re looking for a full house on a Saturday night. The club also has a brother location with a more relaxed feel, called Pistil, down the street. E134, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon wwww.instagram.com/cakeshopseoul mNoksapyeong Station.

HSoap Seoul

DANCE CLUBS | One of the most sought-after clubs in Seoul, Soap’s basement club pumps out house, disco, and hip-hop music late into the night for up to 400 guests. They frequently invite international acts and give guest DJs relative freedom on the stage. Past acts include Tokimonsta, Jacques, and Habibi Funk among others. Drinks at the bar are not cheap, but their signature cocktails—the Oragina Special, Jeju Mule, and Flamingo—are delicious. Soap typically peaks around 1 am, and there are typically lines to get in. Check their Instagram page before you go as you may need tickets in advance for special guest shows. E14-9, Bogwang-ro 60-gil, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon wwww.instagram.com/soapseoul mItaewon Station.

LGBTQ+

The Hill

GATHERING PLACES | This street of bars and clubs is the center of nightlife for gay men in Seoul. As same-sex rights are not recognized by the South Korean government, the street is also a safe haven for the community and should not be regarded as a tourist attraction. That being said, gay men and allies accompanied by gay men can feel free to let loose here. Bars like Trance, Trunk, Queen, and Why Not offer cocktails, dancing, drag shows, and more. EUsadan-ro 12-gil, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon mItaewon Station.

p Performing Arts

Blue Square

ARTS CENTERS | Approximately 10 million visitors a year head to this 8-story art space for plays, musicals, and large-scale concerts, from leading names in K-pop to international acts. Past shows include Wicked, Les Miserables, and Aida among others. Many in the theater industry say its state-of-the-art equipment and layout (it’s a whopping 29,492 square meters (317,449 square feet) make it one of the best places to see live entertainment. Blue Square has several restaurants and cafes, but the most notable of its amenities is the Book Lounge, a private collection of 3,000 books. E294, Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu P1544–1591 wwww.bluesquare.kr mHangangjin Station.

CGV Yongsan

THEATER | FAMILY | When it comes to movie theaters, South Korea’s are generally better quality for the price compared to most countries in the world. CGV is a trusted franchise with locations across Korea, but this location within I’Park Mall can be set apart for its special viewing options. There is a well-reputed IMAX theater perfect for blockbuster and action movies, a Goldclass theater with reclining seats for a high-end cinema experience, and the world’s first 4DX theater with surround screens and seats that move. Order from the long list of popcorn options, sit down with a drink, and enjoy. E55, Hangang-daero 23-gil, Yongsan-gu P1544–1122 wwww.cgv.co.kr AFrom ₩11,000 mYongsan Station.

National Theater of Korea

THEATER | Korea’s National Dance, National Orchestra, and National Changgeuk (traditional Korean opera) companies all perform in this historic theater dating back to 1950, the first national theater in Asia. In addition to ballet, theater, and concerts, the theater also offers arts education classes throughout the year. E59 Jangchungdan-ro, Jung-gu P2–2280–4114 wwww.ntok.go.kr/en.

b Shopping

Itaewon Foreign Book Store

BOOKS | FAMILY | Open since 1973, the Itaewon Foreign Book Store is a small used books store near Noksapyeong Station. While the prices are not as low as what you might find elsewhere, the owner can chat to you about the books in store as well as the changes in the neighborhood. Don’t be afraid to ask for a recommendation or for help searching—the store looks disorganized, but there is method in the madness. E208, Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu, Itaewon P02/793–8249 mNoksapyeong Station.

Sounds Hannam

SHOPPING CENTER | Located in an area of Hannam-dong less traveled by tourists, this complex has several retail shops, restaurants, and office spaces. Noteworthy shops here include an Aesops store, a bookstore called Still Books, and a flower shop called Brunia Flower. If you get hungry while browsing, check out cafe and bakery Quartet or sit down for a meal at Ilho Chic, a popular restaurant that serves elevated Korean food. E35, Daesagwan-ro, Yongsan-gu P02/511–7443 wwww.instagram.com/sounds.hannam mHangangjin Station.

a Activities

Dragon Hill Spa

SPAS | FAMILY | Featured on a number of television shows and dramas, this popular jjimjilbang (Korean-style sauna) has a long history of welcoming foreigners. Since the spa is more accustomed to international clientele than others, it’s a good starter for those apprehensive of using a Korean spa for the first time. The spa spans eight stories with separate baths for men and women, several steam rooms, restaurants, cafes, and additional services like massages and facials available. For those that don’t necessarily want to sit still all day long, the spa also has a heated pool, a fitness center, and a game room. E40, Hangang-daero 21na-gil, Yongsan-gu P02/792–0001 wwww.dragonhillspa.com AFrom ₩13,000 mYongsan Station.

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

TOP EXPERIENCES

Treat yourself: Gangnam has the crème de la crème of Seoul’s pampering luxury hotels, fine dining restaurants, flashy clubs, and spas.

Shop the Beverly Hills of Korea: Apgujeong Rodeo Street has the greatest concentration of high-end designer brands on the peninsula.

Make a K-pop pilgrimage: From K-Star Road to the company that signed BTS and the Psy Gangnam Style statue, this is the spot for diehard fans.

Soak in the serenity: A stroll to Bongeunsa temple or a cruise along the Han River reminds you that Gangnam is more than bright lights and flashy cars.

Lose yourself in Starfield COEX: More than just a mall, Starfield also has a movie theater, an aquarium, and the Starfield Library.

GETTING HERE

The best way to reach Gangnam is by subway. Jump on Line 4 going south at Seoul Station and transfer to Line 2 at Sadang Station. This will take you to Gangnam Station and Samseong Station (World Trade Center Korea), which are two of the sprawling district’s central points. You can also take Line 4 east from Seoul Station and transfer to Line 3 at Chungmuro Station. This will take you south to Apgujeong Station, another neighborhood hub. A taxi from Seoul Station to Gangnam Station will cost you ₩15,000 to ₩20,000. Driving is also possible, but be warned the parking is tight and expensive.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

You’ll want to dedicate at least a day to Gangnam, or more if you’re particularly into shopping or getting pampered. While any time is a good time to visit, weekends can get crowded, especially at shopping malls and restaurants. Visiting during the week will help you beat the crowds, but you may get caught in traffic during rush hour times. Like the rest of Korea, Gangnam is safe 24 hours a day, though travelers should exercise basic caution at night.

PAUSE HERE

Yeoksam Park. This little green space on the top of the hill behind Gangnam Station is the perfect place to take a break from the hustle and bustle of one of Seoul’s most hectic districts. It contains walking paths and a pavilion, and is a great place to check out the cherry blossoms in the spring. It’s also home to a nice garden, as well as an extended clan of friendly cats. EYeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu Gangnam Station, Exit 12.

VIEWFINDER

Gangnam Style Hands Statue. This piece of public art outside of COEX complex commemorates singer Psy’s megahit, “Gangnam Style.” The large bronze sculpture is constructed in the shape of the singer’s hands as he did his distinctive “horse dance” in the music video. If you step onto the stage under the hands, it will play the megahit song for you, and you can take the opportunity to give the dance your best shot. EYoungdongdaero 513, Gangnam-gu Bongeunsa Station, Exit 7.

Once known only in Korea as a ritzy neighborhood for the affluent Seoul set, Gangnam burst onto the world stage in 2012 with singer Psy’s megahit, “Gangnam Style.” Combining elements of hip-hop, K-pop, and electronic dance music, this incredibly catchy tune swept the globe like wildfire, while its cheeky video—which skewered the district’s reputation for worshiping wealth—became the first ever to break one billion views on YouTube. This was more than just a song: it was a phenomenon, cementing the Seoul neighborhood’s status as not just a heavyweight in Korea, but also an international influencer.

It wasn’t always like this, however. Up until the early 1980s, Gangnam—which is the city’s third largest district—was one of the least-developed areas in the capital. Since then it has undergone a massive transformation, with the once-sleepy old neighborhoods and side streets giving rise to towering buildings of concrete, glass, and steel.

The result is that parts of Gangnam now feel very much like New York or Chicago. It’s a place of gargantuan skyscrapers, taxi-jammed roads, and bustling sidewalks full of people who know where they’re going and intend to get there quickly. This is a neighborhood that stops for no one, and while it may seem a bit cold and impersonal at times, this is the price you pay when you want to hang in the big city.

In Gangnam, money is indeed the name of the game. It’s not uncommon to see residents driving Ferraris or Lamborghinis down the road during lunchtime. The locals are impeccably dressed, often sporting brands seen in the windows of the district’s myriad luxury shops, and its real estate prices have gone from high to stratospheric in recent years, turning a whole generation of apartment owners into overnight millionaires. Walking among its urban canyons, you can almost taste the cash in the air.

While such ostentatious displays of wealth can be off putting, they can also be attractive. If you want to see what life is like in the “Beverly Hills of Korea,” then look no further. And the concentration of prosperity in Gangnam has also given birth to creativity. The district is home to art galleries, fashion design houses, and several entertainment companies that supply the songs and talent for the K-pop juggernaut, arguably the country’s most important current export, and among its most lucrative.

However, for all of the bright lights, luxury malls, and other gold-gilded bells and whistles, Gangnam is a place where people actually live, work, and play. Of course the shopping is great, but it’s also home to some of the city’s best restaurants, cafes, and hotels, as well as parks and cultural sights such as tombs and temples. And despite the generally high prices, a visit to Gangnam doesn’t have to break the bank. If you look closely, there are plenty of hidden gems that are on par with any other neighborhood in Seoul, pricewise.

At this point in the city’s evolution, you really can’t say you’ve experienced modern Seoul without spending at least a day in this dynamic, flashy, and essential part of town. Like anywhere, the splendors will become apparent once you’ve put your feet on the ground and explored the place yourself. And who knows? You just may find yourself caught up in the action and dancing along to Psy’s famous song.

s Sights

Banpo Hangang Park

CITY PARK | Though technically in neighboring Seocho District rather Gangnam proper, this large riverside park is close enough to warrant a visit. Lazily stroll along the river walk, check out the Banpo Bridge Rainbow Fountain (which, at 570 meters/1,870 feet long is the largest bridge fountain in the world), rent a bicycle, or picnic on the grass. In the warmer months (April through October) the park hosts the Bamdokkgaebi Moonlight Market every Friday and Saturday night from 6 to 11 pm. This popular event attracts people from all over the city to browse the artist’s stalls and graze on food truck fare, featuring Korean classics such as tteokbokki (rice cakes in sweet spicy sauce), along with foreign favorites like tacos, hot dogs, and Cuban sandwiches. The trio of man-made floating islands known as Some Sebit are also not to be missed. Each features a building lit-up at night by multi-chromatic LED lights and are constructed to represent the three stages of the life of a flower. Inside you can find two restaurants, a cafe, and an outfit renting six-person “Tubester” boats. E40, Sinbanpo-ro 11-gil, Seocho-gu P1330 Korea Travel Hotline whangang.seoul.go.kr mExpress Bus Terminal Station, Exit 8.

Big Hit Entertainment (original building)

NOTABLE BUILDING | Seoul is home to a number of entertainment companies, but Big Hit Entertainment is known as the outfit that launched the careers of global K-pop mega sensation BTS. While they’ve since moved into a brand new headquarters (the 19-story HYBE Building in Yongsan), this much more humble structure where it all started still stands. The building has become a pilgrimage point for diehard BTS fans known as ARMYs, where thousands have scribbled words of dedication to the group on the outside of the structure. E10-31 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu mSinsa Station, Exit 1.

HBongeunsa

TEMPLE | Situated just north of COEX Mall, this beautiful Buddhist complex is an oasis of tranquility in the amped up concrete and steel environs of modern Gangnam. Built in 794, the temple is home to 3,479 Buddhist scriptures, making it much more than a tourist attraction in the heart of one of Seoul’s most modern and hectic districts. Bongeunsa is also part of South Korea’s temple stay program, so it’s possible to sleep overnight and experience life from a monk’s perspective. E531, Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu P1330 Korea Travel Hotline wtemplestay.com mBongeunsa Station, Exit 1.

Dosan Park

CITY PARK | Established in 1973, this cool little park is dedicated to the memory of Ahn Chang-ho (pen name “Dosan”), a key figure in Korea’s independence movement against the Japanese occupation. The park contains his statue, as well as the Dosan Ahn Chang-ho Memorial Hall, a kind of mini-museum dedicated to the life and times of this man dear to the hearts of so many Koreans. The park is a perfect place to take a break from the bustle of the city while also reflecting on figures like Dosan who sacrificed it all to help pave the way for a prosperous and free Korea. E10-6 Dosan-daero 49-gil, Seoul P02/514–5060 mApgujeong Rodeo Sation, Exit 5.

Gangnam Meat Alley

STREET | Sitting just two blocks behind Gangnam Station’s Exit 10, this narrow concourse is home to scores of barbecue restaurants as well as pocha, the Korean drinking-establishments serving up side dishes known as anju. In the warmer months the outdoor patios are packed with a young crowd eating and drinking and living it up. The atmosphere is lively and infectious, and while you may have to wait for a table on the weekends, the opportunity to sit outside, nibble on grilled meat, and wash it all down with a bottle or two of soju should not be missed. EGangnam Dae-ro, 64 gil, Seocho-gu mGangnam Station, Exit 10.

Garosu-gil

STREET | While the neighborhoods north of the Han River are home to most of the tourist sights in Seoul, the much newer areas to the south offer a glimpse of Seoul’s trendier side. Easily the best place to see this would be Garosu-gil, Seoul’s aptly named “Street of Trees.” The number of trees lining this shady 700 meter-long (2,297 feet) street is challenged only by the number of its boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. While other neighborhoods in Gangnam are packed with international brands, Garosu-gil is still dominated by locally produced goods and cafes. While not necessarily the place for traditional souvenirs, Garosu-gil is a good stop for some relaxing boutique shopping and watching the world go by from one of its many cool cafés. ESinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu mSinsa Station, Exit 8.

K Museum of Contemporary Art

ART MUSEUM | Featuring paintings, sculptures, installations, performances, and video projects by artists from both Korea and abroad, the museum emphasizes interaction between the audience and the artist, and the curators aren’t afraid to put forth challenging and experimental work. Gangnam has grown into one of the country’s creative hubs, and the K Museum of Contemporary Art is a great place to visit if you want to put your finger on the pulse of the currents informing and inspiring the modern Korean arts scene. E807, Seolleung-ro, Seoul P02/2138–0952 wkmcaseoul.org A₩13,000 CClosed Mon. mApgujeong Rodeo Station, Exit 5.

K-Star Road

STREET | Located along the strip of high-end designer shops near Apgujeong Rodeo Station, this attraction features a series of cute bear statues inspired by K-pop acts such as BTS, Psy, Blackpink, and more. While not necessarily a mind-blowing experience, the photo ops are a must for any hardcore K-pop aficionado. E407, Apgujeong-ro, Seoul mApgujeong Rodeo, Exit 2.

My Art Museum

ART GALLERY | This small gallery located in the basement of the Textile Center building next to Samseong Station features an exhibition space shop, cafe, and education zone. They tend to display foreign artists with an emphasis on modern painters. E518, Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu P02/567–8878 wmyartmuseum.co.kr A₩20,000 mSamseong Station, Exit 4.

HThe Royal Tombs of Samneung Park

TOMB | Both a much-welcomed swath of nature as well as one of the city’s greatest historical treasures, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to the burial mounds of two kings and one queen from Korea’s Joseon era. King Seongjong—widely considered to be one of Korea’s great leaders—is buried with his wife, Queen Jeonghyeon, in the park’s west side, while the east side contains the tomb of King Jeongneung, their second son. While the history is impressive, the park also offers visitors a chance to unwind, exercise, and otherwise soak up fresh air in the midst of Gangnam’s concrete jungle. E1 Seolleung-ro 100-gil, Seoul AFree mSeonjeongyeong Station, Exit 3.

HStarfield COEX Mall

STORE/MALL | This sprawling complex is more than just a shopping destination: it’s the mothership of trendsetting fashion, food, culture, and entertainment in Seoul. The largest underground mall in Asia, COEX is home to shops carrying national and international brands, as well as restaurants serving cuisine from around the world, plus a movie theater, an aquarium, and the Starfield Library, where you can browse through thousands of books or just relax under the skylight roof. It’s a great place to lose yourself for a couple of hours, and when you feel like coming up for air, make sure to stroll along the grounds outside and check out the giant golden sculpture of Psy’s hands as he does the “Gangnam Style” horse dance. E513, Yeongdong-daero, Gangnam-gu P02/6002–5300 wstarfield.co.kr mBongeunsa Station, Exit 7, or Samseong Station (World Trade Center Seoul), Exit 6.

r Restaurants

Bongmilga

$ | KOREAN | This highly praised restaurant serves Pyeonyang naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles), which is a must-try dish during any visit to Korea, especially during the blistering summer months. Chef Kwon Hee-sung prepares the beef bone broth every day, and uses only the freshest, local ingredients to elevate this beloved yet humble dish into something really special. Known for: cold noodles; loyal following; hand-made dumplings. DAverage main: ₩12,000 E664 Seollung-ro, Gangnam-gu P02/546–2305 CClosed Sun. mGangnam District Office Station, Exit 1.

Brick Oven New York Pizzeria

$$ | PIZZA | Up until a few years ago it was impossible to get proper New York–style pizza in Korea, but Brick Oven, along with a few other upstarts, helped change that. This establishment set the standard for crispy thin crust pies in town, and are widely considered to be the best in the game. Known for: “Godfather” Italian sausage pizza; casual setting; craft beer. DAverage main: ₩30,000 EGangnam Daero, 102 gil, Seoul P02/508–1325 mGangnam Station, Exit 11.

Crab 52

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | The very definition of Gangnam luxury is this brand-new seafood buffet on the 52nd floor fo the World Trade Center Seoul. Gaze out at the cityscape below as you dine on king crab, lobster, shrimp, prawns, tuna belly sashimi, and more. Known for: sweeping city views; modern, classy setting; fresh crab and lobster. DAverage main: ₩220,000 EWorld Trade Center Seoul, Yeongdong Daero 511, 52nd fl., Gangnam-gu P1644–2066 winstagram.com/crab52_official mSamseong Station.

Gaon

$$$$ | KOREAN | Reservations are essential for this highly lauded fine dining establishment where traditional Korean cuisine shines in a multi-course tasting menu. Local ingredients highlight the flavors of the region to produce dishes like sea bream, beef ribs, abalone, black bean tea, and more. Known for: highest quality dining; fresh local flavors; special occasions. DAverage main: ₩250,000 EHorim Art Center, 317, Dosan-daero, M Fl., Gangnam-gu P02/545–9845 wgaonkr.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

Gyunae

$ | JAPANESE | This little neighborhood Japanese joint specializes in yakatori (meat skewers grilled over coals) along with cold beer and sake. The intimate space contains just a handful of tables, so it pays to call ahead and reserve a spot. Known for: homey, cozy ambiance; yakatori; extensive sake list. DAverage main: ₩25,000 E21, Yeoksam-ro, 5 gil, Gangnam-gu P010/9033–6795 mGangnam Station, Exit 1.

Hanool Dak Galbi

$ | KOREAN | Always a hit with visitors to Korea, dak galbi (stir-fried chicken) is the perfect combination of savory, spicy, and sweet, and it’s cooked up in a sizzling pan right in the middle of your table, which adds a touch of theatrics. This popular neighborhood joint serves up dak galbi in its purest, most unpretentious form, while still managing to be pretty close to the rest of the nightlife action. Known for: proximity to bars; neighborhood favorite; chicken cooked tableside. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E19, Hakdong-ro, 2 gil, Gangnam-gu P010/9004–9789 mNonhyeon Station, Exit 3.

Jeju Heuk Da Don

$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | Situated on “Meat Alley” (Gogi Golmok), Heuk Da Don specializes in Jeju Island barbecue pork (the black pigs raised on Jeju are said to have a deeper flavor). This restaurant serves up several different cuts, so you’re best off ordering the mixed grill. Known for: party-like “Meat Alley” location; outdoor seating; Jeju black pig and soju. DAverage main: ₩25,000 E10, Gangnam Daero, 65 gil, Gangnam-gu P02/3482–2090 mGangnam Station, Exit 10.

HJeongdon

$ | KOREAN FUSION | This extremely popular restaurant takes donkas (Korea’s version of Japanese pork cutlet), to a whole other level. If you think you’ve had good versions of the dish before, think again, because Jeongdon absolutely knocks it out of the park. Known for: crispy, juicy tenderloin donkas; worth the wait; retro interior. DAverage main: ₩20,000 E26, Gangnam Daero, 110 gil, Gangnam-gu P02/563–0924 mShinnohyeon Station, Exit 6.

HJungsik

$$$$ | KOREAN FUSION | Chef Yim Jung-sik made waves with this restaurant that takes traditional Korean fare, such as bibimbap and gimbap (Korean sushi rolls) and transforms them into a fine dining experience. Jungsik specializes in course meals that draw from a variety of influences, but are always given a distinctly Korean touch. The service is kind, attentive, and discreet, the atmosphere chic, and the wine list is custom-curated to pair with the current menu. Known for: chic atmosphere; kind, attentive service; multi-course meals with wine pairings. DAverage main: ₩180,000 E11 Seolleung-ro 158-gil P02/5617–4654 wjungsik.kr kBusiness casual (no jeans) mApgujeong Rodeo Station, Exit 4.

Kkanbu Chicken

$ | KOREAN | Chicken is huge in Korea, especially when paired with beer, and Kkanbu is a Korean chain that serves up many varieties of the bird, including basic crunchy, spicy barbecue, garlic soy sauce, as well as boneless pieces fried up with pieces of squid. Whatever your preference, the Samseong branch has it all, but make sure to wash it down with a cold glass of beer or two. Known for: boneless options; garlic soy sauce chicken; cold beer. DAverage main: ₩20,000 E3 Samseong-ro 96-gil, Gangnam-gu P02/566–7088 mSamseong Jungan Station, Exit 5.

Maekju Duckhu Pizza Duckhu

$ | PIZZA | Leading the way in introducing Korean palates to the joys of American-style pizza (instead of Korean fusion variety, which had focused for many years on toppings such as sweet potato, corn, bulgogi, and strawberry jam, often drenched in a lake of sweet sauces and mayonnaise), Maekju Deokhi Pizza Deokhu has perfected the rectangular-cut Detroit style pizza. The funky Apgjujeong restaurant also has scores of quality brews on tap that perfectly complement their pies. Known for: hidden gem; great craft beer selection; thick, square-cut pizza. DAverage main: ₩25,000 E157 gil Seulleong-ro, Seoul P0507/1380–4091 winstagram.com/beerduckhu mApgjujeong Rodeo Station, Exit 5.

HMingles

$$$$ | KOREAN | Traditional Korean cooking “mingles” flawlessly with new techniques at this fine dining restaurant, where exquisite preparations of quality ingredients make for an extra special lunch or dinner. This is the high-end experience for which Gangnam is known, so it’s a must if you’re looking for the place to indulge in the luxury of the neighborhood. Known for: beautifully presented dishes; light, airy dining room; small but thoughtful portions. DAverage main: ₩125,000 E19 Dosan-daero 67-gil, Gangnam-gu P02/515–7306 wwww.restaurant-mingles.com CClosed Mon. mApgujeong Rodeo Station.

Oegojib Seolleongtang

$ | KOREAN | Seolleongtang (a thin, milky white soup made from boiling oxtail and bones) is a Korean comfort food, and Oegojib is famous nationwide wide for their use of only the freshest local veggies, tender slices of beef, and attention to detail in their recipe. This is a soup that melts in your mouth and goes straight to the center of your soul. Known for: fresh ingredients; savory soup goodness; handmade kimchi and kkakdugi. DAverage main: ₩18,000 E555 Samseong-ro, Gangnam-gu P02/567–5225 mHanti Station, Exit 1.

Sammi Galbi

$$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | This neighborhood barbecue restaurant serves up a variety of hanwoo beef as well other favorites such as samgyeopsal (pork belly). The prices vary drastically depending on which cut you’re keen on, but Sammi’s staying power has been its consistent commitment to quality. Known for: quality cuts; delicious barbecue; galbi tang (beer rib soup). DAverage main: ₩30,500 E30, Hakdong-ro, 2 gil, Seoul P02/549–9485 mNonhyeon Station, Exit 2.

Superpan

$$ | KOREAN FUSION | Seasonal ingredients guide the menu at this intimate contemporary Korean bistro that often incorporates worldly flavors. You might order home-style classics like cold buckwheat noodles, grilled pork belly, or seoritae (black soybean) with mascarpone or a vegetable lasagna. Known for: classics with a twist; cozy space, so book in advance; wine list. DAverage main: ₩42,000 E15 Nonhyeon-ro 167-gil, Gangnam-gu P02/515–3848 wwww.instagram.com/superpan_seoul CClosed Sun. mApgujeong Station.

Sushi Maiu

$ | SUSHI | The Gangnam branch of this conveyer belt-style sushi chain sits right behind the CGV movie theater down from Exit 11 of Gangnam Station. What it lacks in size it makes up for in flavor and value, with nice cuts of fresh fish atop firm balls of rice. Known for: lunch specials; sushi counter seating; cozy ambience. DAverage main: ₩12,000 E102 gil, Gangnam Daero, Gangnam-gu P02/555–4034 mGangnam Station, Exit 11.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Starbucks Seoul Wave Art Center

$ | CAFÉ | While this Seattle-based coffee behemoth boasts more than 500 stores in Seoul, this branch in the Han River Park may be the shiniest diamond in the crown. Occupying the first floor of the Seoul Wave Art Center, this is the only floating Starbucks in Korea, and surely the most Instagram-able. Known for: Han River views; lattes and frappuccinos; beautiful interior in an art gallery. DAverage main: ₩8,000 E145-35 Jamwon-ro, Seocho-gu P1522–3232 mJamwon Station, Exit 4.

Tailor Coffee

$ | CAFÉ | The Sinsa branch of this Seoul coffee company is hip, elegant, and focused on the most important thing: the coffee itself. Located on a side street just a few minutes up from the Garuso-gil shopping street, Tailor exudes sophistication, while also managing to be inviting. Known for: Cream Mocha; stylish setting; jazz music. DAverage main: ₩6,000 E31 Gangnam-daero 160-gil, Gangnam-gu P02/511–0355 wwww.tailorcoffee.com mSinsa Station, Exit 7.

Quelquechose

$ | BAKERY | If you have a sweet tooth or need a burst of energy while exploring, swing by this French patisserie for a delicate blueberry tart or classic madeleine. The shop has rows of macarons in standby flavors like vanilla, pistachio, and rose as well as some more unusual flavors like chocolate yuzu, oolong caramel, and olive. Known for: hot or iced tea; classic French pastries; desserts to go. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E5 Dogok-ro 70-gil, Gangnam-gu wwww.instagram.com/quelquechose_seoul CClosed Mon.–Wed. mHanti Station.

Zenzero

$ | ICE CREAM | Cool off in the summer (or any time of year, really) with a scoop or two from this gelato shop, one of the best in Seoul. Flavors of the creamy Italian-style ice cream rotate but could include old standbys like stracciatella, pistachio, passion fruit sorbet, and chocolate, as well as unique flavors like gamtae (seaweed), sweet corn, butter, and matcha. Known for: refreshing pick-me-up; two flavors per cup; seasonal menu. DAverage main: ₩7,000 E14 Seolleung-ro 126-gil, Gangnam-gu P02/543–1261 wzenzero.co.kr CClosed Mon. mGangnam-gu Office Station.

h Hotels

AC Hotel Seoul Gangnam

$$$ | HOTEL | Launched in 2022, this hotel from the Marriott side brand brings classic, modern European design to the heart of Gangnam. Pros: modern design; city views; rooftop bar. Cons: business center is an additional charge; breakfast is expensive; use of sauna is an additional charge. DRooms from: ₩256,000 E10 Teheran-ro 25 Gil, Gangnam-gu P02/2050–6000 wmarriott.com/en-us/hotels/selag-ac-hotel-seoul-gangnam/overview a274 rooms XNo Meals mYeoksam Station, Exit 6.

Aloft Seoul Gangnam

$$ | HOTEL | Another Marriott property, this chic boutique hotel features clean, colorful rooms and a river-adjacent location that makes it quick and easy to get into central Seoul. Pros: closer to central Seoul than other Gangnam properties; hip, colorful atmosphere; good value. Cons: a bit far from some Gangnam sights; loud traffic area; bathrooms are slightly small. DRooms from: ₩160,000 E736, Yeongdong-daero, Seoul P02/510–9700 wmarriott.com a188 rooms XNo Meals mCheondam Station, Exit 1.

Andaz Seoul Gangnam

$$$ | HOTEL | With a prime location for shopping in Apgujeong, this stylish Hyatt is a comfortable base in one of Gangnam’s wealthiest corners. Pros: amenities include spa and indoor pool; city views; directly connected to the subway. Cons: removed from attractions in central Seoul; restaurant is just okay; parking can be confusing. DRooms from: ₩295,000 E854 Nonhyeon-ro, Gangnam-gu P02/2193–1234 whyatt.com a241 rooms XNo Meals mApgujeong Station, Exit 3.

Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas

$$$$ | HOTEL | If it’s luxury you’re after, look no further, because this upscale hotel near the COEX Mall in the heart of Gangnam delivers it in spades. Pros: modern, elegant rooms; great location; city views. Cons: not flexible on late check-out; swimming pool requires googles and swim cap; buffet can get crowded. DRooms from: ₩465,000 E521, Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu P02/555–5656 wihg.com a550 rooms XNo Meals mSamseong Station (World Trade Center Seoul), Exit 5.

Hotel Anteroom Seoul

$$ | HOTEL | Just a stone’s throw from Garosu-gil, this hip hotel appeals to social, creative types with an art gallery, plus a Vietnamese cafe, airy rooms with natural woods, and a rooftop bar with unparalleled views all the way to N Seoul Tower. Pros: rooftop bar for coffee or drinks has great views; convenient to shopping; not a cookie cutter experience. Cons: rooms aren’t totally soundproofed; rooms are a bit small; vibe is more trendy than luxurious. DRooms from: ₩80,000 E153 Dosan-daero, Gangnam-gu P02/542–2300 wwww.anteroom-seoul.com a112 rooms XNo Meals mSinsa Station, Exit 8.

Hotel Cappuccino

$$ | HOTEL | Trendy industrial vibes permeate this urban hotel known for its rooftop restaurant with city views, a popular choice with the young set and travelers who place value on socializing and functionality rather than luxury. Pros: pet friendly; easy on the budget; central location. Cons: no frills; this is not 5-star luxury; service can be spotty. DRooms from: ₩90,200 E155 Bongeunsa-ro, Gangnam-gu P02/2038–9500 wwww.hotelcappuccino.co.kr a141 rooms XNo Meals mEonju Station, Exit 4.

Hotel Peyto Samseong

$$ | HOTEL | This business boutique hotel is conveniently located near the COEX complex and the World Trade Center Seoul. Pros: convenient location; great value; immaculate rooms. Cons: rooms are on the small side; few amenities; breakfast not included. DRooms from: ₩100,000 E9, Teheran-ro, 87 gil, Gangnam-gu P02/6936–8100 wpeytohotel.com a162 rooms XNo Meals mSamseong Station (World Trade Center Seoul), Exit 2.

Josun Palace Hotel

$$$ | HOTEL | The name “palace” is your first inkling that this luxury hotel from Marriott has crisp, stylish rooms with beautiful city views and plenty of cushy amenities. Pros: chic restaurants and bar; good service; heated indoor pool. Cons: doesn’t feel super local; pricey; breakfast is an additional fee. DRooms from: ₩323,000 E231, Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu P02/727–7200 wmarriott.com a254 rooms XNo Meals mYeoksam Station, Exit 8.

HPark Hyatt Seoul

$$$$ | HOTEL | Arguably the best hotel in Seoul, the Park Hyatt prides itself on personalizing the experience for each guest, and if you’re willing to spend the money, there are few hotels in town that can pull off such an immersive stay, complete with top-notch restaurants and bars, rooms bathed in natural light, plenty of amenities, and city views for miles. Pros: incredible views; luxurious facilities that include a spa and pool; accessible. Cons: a bit far from non-Gangnam Seoul attractions; parking is not free; lobby is on the 24th floor. DRooms from: ₩750,000 E606, Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu P02/2016–1234 whyatt.com a185 rooms XNo Meals mSamseong Station (World Trade Center Seoul), Exits 1 & 2.

Toyoko Inn Seoul Gangnam

$$ | HOTEL | This Japanese chain is a sure bet when it comes to comfort and value, and their Gangnam location doesn’t disappoint. Pros: convenient location; great value; clean rooms. Cons: rooms are a bit small; inflexible about the 4:00 pm check-in; minimal service from reception. DRooms from: ₩75,000 E323, Gangnam-daero, Seocho-gu P02/3472–1045 wwww.toyoko-inn.com/eng a309 rooms XFree Breakfast mGangnam Station, Exit 5.

n Nightlife

As one of Seoul’s largest and most vibrant neighborhoods, Gangnam has a multitude of great nightlife options that match a range of tastes and budgets. From cocktail bars to craft beer pubs, there are loads of hopping places to choose from, with plenty of opportunities to soak up the glitz and glamor for which this part of town is famous. However, it’s not recommended to visit the big clubs despite Gangnam’s reputation as a clubbing center. Unfortunately, most of these establishments currently practice a “Koreans only” admission policy, and those that are willing to admit foreigners will likely only do so under the condition that you spring for prohibitively expensive table/bottle service. All of these clubs also check IDs, and for the most part any one over the age of 35 will be barred entry as well. South Korea still lacks a national anti-discrimination law, which sadly makes these kinds of practices possible. If you’re keen to hit the clubs in Seoul, we’d recommend you do so in other neighborhoods such as Hongdae or Itaewon where the club culture is much more inclusive than that practiced in Gangnam.

Alice Cheongdam

BARS | This basement speakeasy inspired by Alice in Wonderland serves whimsical, fun cocktails befitting of its theme while still managing to avoid being gimmicky or over-the-top. E47 Dosan-daero 55-gil, Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu P02/511–8420 wwww.instagram.com/alice_cheongdam mApgujeong Rodeo Station, Exit 4.

HBar Tea Scent

COCKTAIL LOUNGES | Tea is the hero of the cocktail menu at this Zen-like bar meets teahouse, starring in everything from the Earl Grey Bourbon to the Champagne Oolong. It’s a unique experience, but be prepared to spend about ₩25,000 per tea cocktail. E83-12 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu P02/6052–6579 wwww.instagram.com/bar_teascent mApgujeong Rodeo Station, Exit 4.

Beer Room

BREWPUBS | With scores of great craft beers on tap and a full menu of Italian food, Beer Room is one of Gangnam’s best spots for a pint and a bite. The decor of the two-story space adds to the ambience, with concrete floors, acres of glass, and outdoor tables where you can sip a hearty ale and watch the night unfold. They also play music of the mellow techno and jazz variety, which is a rarity in an otherwise sea of K-pop. E22, Gangnam Daero, 98 gil, Seocho-gu P070/8955–5955 wwww.instagram.com/beerroom_gangnam mGangnam Station, Exit 11.

Casa del Vino

WINE BARS | Considered by many to be the best wine bar in the city, Casa del Vino is a must for oenophiles. They boast an extensive list of more than 600 wines, with a European focus but also some Napa Valley bottles and some more obscure picks. The interior is classy and elegant, and the rectangular bar is popular with the local business crowd. E43 Seolleung-ro 162-gil, Gangnam-gu P02/542–8003 wwww.instagram.com/casadelvino2002 mApgujeong Rodeo, Exit 2.

Goose Island Brewhouse

BREWPUBS | This Chicago-based company was one of the first foreign brands to make headway into Korea’s emerging craft beer scene, and their Gangnam location is their mothership. It’s an ultra-modern, immaculate complex with myriad beers on tap and a full food menu featuring Western pub favorites such as pork ribs and Buffalo wings. It also houses a brewery with stainless steel tanks, tubes, and valves visible right behind the long bar. The net result is a shiny piece of the United States in the midst of Seoul, so if you’re homesick, perhaps this will cure it. Just don’t don’t expect too much in the way of service. E118 Yeoksam-ro, Seocho-gu P02/6202–1785 wwww.gooseisland.kr mGangnam Station, Exit 3.

Le Chamber

BARS | In a sea of luxurious stores, find a hidden retreat in this speakeasy behind a bookcase in a Cheongdam alleyway (push the book and the door opens). The library-like lounge has an illuminated bar and sparkling chandeliers, giving it an air of sophistication that complements the neighborhood well. There’s an excellent whiskey list and unique, if a bit pricey, cocktails. E42 Dosan-daero 55-gil, Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu P02/6337–2014 wwww.lechamber.com mApgujeong Rodeo Station, Exit 4.

Rooftop Bar Kloud

BARS | Perched at the top of the AC Hotel Gangnam, this stylish, upscale bar embraces a New York City speakeasy theme and features a world-class menu of wines, whiskeys, beer, and cocktails, as well as impressive views of N Seoul Tower and Gangnam. Dinner is served from 6 pm to 9 pm. Reservations are recommended. EAC Hotel Gangnam, Teheran-ro, 25 gil, 10, 21st fl., Gangnam-gu P02/2050–6035 wurbandelight.co.kr/rooftop-kloud mYeoksam Station, Exit 6.

HTimber House

BARS | Situated in the basement of the Park Hyatt hotel, Timber House bills itself as an upscale vinyl record bar, with Izakaya-themed Japanese dishes and top notch cocktails, whiskeys, and wines. As the name suggests, the space is all deep varnished wood and soft, tasteful lighting, with DJs spinning a collection of the records Tuesday through Sunday night. The drinks aren’t cheap, but the bar is worth a visit for the experience alone. Their happy hour, from 5 to 7 pm, offers half-price entrees and drinks that takes some of the sting out when it comes to time to pay the bill. EPark Hyatt Seoul, 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu P02/2016–1291 wseoul.park.hyattrestaurants.kr/en/web/the-timber-house mSamseong Station (World Trade Center Seoul), Exit 1.

Vudu

BARS | This cool little basement bar at the top of Gangnam’s “Meat Alley” attracts both an expat and Korean clientele. It’s most famous for its darts and beer pong, though if you arrive early enough and sidle up to the counter, owner LJ will regale you with stories of how the neighborhood has grown and changed over the decade and a half since she set up shop. Vudu is a great place to roll up to alone; if you stay long enough, you’ll probably make friends with most of the bar. E45 Seocho-daero 75-gil, Seocho-gu P02/534–8006 mGangnam Station, Exit 10.

Woodstock

BARS | While Gangnam is famous for its K-pop, hip-hop, and electronic music dance clubs, this bar offers a refuge for any rock and rollers who may find themselves in this otherwise musically unfriendly terrain. With draft beer and cocktails, Woodstock keeps the rock dream alive with monitors playing music videos that are blasted through the bar’s speakers. Think: AC/DC, Guns ‘n Roses, and Nirvana. The owner, who will also pour your beer, takes requests, but just be sure not to ask for any BTS songs. E19 Gangnam-daero, 96-gil, Seocho-gu P02/556–9774 wwww.facebook.com/Woodstock.Music.Bar.Gangnam mGangnam Station, Exit 10.

p Performing Arts

Seoul Arts Center

ARTS CENTERS | The massive arts complex includes an opera house, two theaters, and three concert/recital halls. The performances range from plays to classical music, jazz to traditional Korean music and hip-hop. The programming varies month by month, so make sure to check out the website to see what’s going on. E2406 Nambusunhwanro, Seocho-gu j10-minute walk (or short cab ride) from the bus terminal P02/580–1300 wsac.or.kr mNambu Bus Terminal Station, Exit 5.

b Shopping

Gangnam is a district known for its high-end shopping. In addition to the Starfield COEX Mall (see listing under Sights), you’ll find department stores and luxury boutiques with the latest fashions from designer houses, sprinkled between more than a few plastic surgery clinics. Window shop or be prepared to spend a pretty penny.

Apgujeong Rodeo Street

NEIGHBORHOODS | If fashion is your thing, Gangnam’s version of Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive is the place for you. This concourse is home to scores of boutiques, along with accessory shops, shoe stores, and luxury brand discount outlets. It also hosts some of the highest concentration of plastic surgery clinics in the world. If nothing else, it’s a good place to check out the scene, as over the decades this has been one of the big places in Seoul to see or be seen. EApgujeong Rodeo Station, Gangnam-gu P1330 Korea Travel Hotline wgangnam.go.kr mApguyeong Rodeo Station, Exits 7 and 2.

Galleria Department Store

DEPARTMENT STORE | Gangnam has become defined by its love affair with luxury brands, and nowhere will you find a greater concentration of shops dedicated to these high-end goods than the Galleria Department Store at Apgujeong Rodeo Station. The store, which is spread out among two buildings (Luxury Hall East and Luxury Hall West) features international brands such as Prada, Bally, Ferragamo, Fendi, Tod’s, Armani, Gucci, and more. There are also high-end jewelers, and Gourmet 494, a food boutique located in the basement. E407 Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu P02/3449–4114 wdept.galleria.co.kr mApgujeong Rodeo Station, Exit 2.

Gangnam Underground Mall

MALL | This basement mall connected to Gangnam Station features tiny shops and kiosks selling the latest in fashion trends. It’s a great place to browse if you have a bit of extra time on your hands. E396, Gangnam-daero, Gangnam-gu P1330 Korea Travel Hotline wsisul.or.kr mGangnam Station.

Hyundai Department Store Apgujeong

DEPARTMENT STORE | Since 1985, this has operated as Hyundai’s flagship store, with upscale shops selling designer brands, restaurants, household goods, food, and more. The rooftop is home to the Sky Park garden, where you can relax among the bamboo and birch trees and watch the clouds drift by. E494, Apgujeong-ro, Gangnam-gu P02/547–2233 wehyundai.com mApgujeong Station, Exit 6.

Line Friends

TOYS | Kids (and kids at heart) can never resist the cuteness overload at Line Friends, a store filled with plush stuffed animals, pajamas, and toys galore. Star characters from the Korean line Brown and Friends as well as collaborations with Minions and Maison Kitsuné are top sellers. E1305-3 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu P02/536–3232 wbrand.naver.com/linefriends mSinnonhyeon Station.

Sikijang

HOUSEWARES | The best place in town to pick up beautiful plates and handmade ceramics, this is where affluent residents of Gangnam shop for their kitchens. E9-3 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu P02/541–6480 wsikijang.com mCheongdam Station.

a Activities

BOATING

Tubester

ENTERTAINMENT CRUISE | Take a six-seat motor boat out for a cruise on the Han River off the Some Sebit islands, noshing on food and drinks for a 30-minute or hour-long rental. The circular boats have an umbrella top, shading you from the sun in summer. At night the boats are illuminated with lights, giving them a party vibe after dark. EBanpo Hangang Park, 085-14, Olympic-daero, Seocho-gu P1566–3433 wwww.somesevit.com AFrom ₩35,000 mExpress Bus Terminal Station, Exit 8.

CYCLING

Seoul is defined by the mighty Han River, and one of the best ways to take it in is by bicycle. Both sides of the river feature cycling paths, and it’s possible to rent bikes by the hour at Banpo Hangang Park.

Banpo Bicycle Rental Shop

BIKING | Rent a bicycle or tandem from this convenient shop in Banpo Hangang Park. It’s relatively inexpensive and open until 10 pm, making it an excellent choice any time of day. E40, Sinbanpo-ro, 11 gil, Seocho-gu P02/488–8366 ABicycles: ₩3,000 an hour; tandems: ₩6,000 an hour mExpress Bus Terminal, Exit 8-2.

SPA

Spa Lei

SPAS | More like a wellness theme park than a spa, this women-only jjimjilbang (Korean spa) spans three levels of massage rooms, wet and dry saunas, hot and cold pools, and even restaurants and a terrace. The relaxing retreat is open 24/7; just note that not much English is spoken and some services require a cash payment. E5 Gangnam-daero 107-gil, Seocho-gu P02/545–4002 wwww.spalei.co.kr AFrom ₩16,000.

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

TOP EXPERIENCES

Get sky-high views: At 123 stories, Lotte World Tower is Korea’s tallest building and the view from its observation deck is simply unrivaled.

Root for the home team: Jamsil Stadium hosts two professional baseball teams, and a KBO game in Korea is about much more than the action on the diamond: it’s a party and a feast.

Shop at Lotte: Both Lotte World Mall and Lotte Department Store offer world-class shopping with high-end brands and designer goods.

Soak up history: Stroll among burial mounds of royalty from the ancient Baekje Kingdom, then fast forward to 1988, when Seoul hosted the Olympic games.

Eat and drink: On Songridan-gil, a side street of hip cafes and restaurants, bask in the coolness of the capital.

Release your inner child: A day on the rides at Lotte World theme park will surely bring out the kid in you.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

From Seoul Station, head north on Line 1 to City Hall Station, where you can transfer to Line 2, which will take you all the way to Jamsil Station. The journey takes about 45 minutes. Driving is possible as well, though parking in Songpa-gu can be hard to find and expensive. Taxis from Seoul Station will run ₩25,000–₩30,000, depending on traffic, which can get pretty bad at most any time of the day.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Any time is a good time to visit Jamsil, though Lotte World Mall, Lotte Department Store, and especially Lotte World theme park can get extremely crowded on the weekends. Save half a day for each of these activities. While Seoul and Korea as a whole are extremely safe destinations, solo travelers should exercise basic caution at night.

VIEWFINDER

Lotte World Tower. This skyscraper is an incredible piece of architecture and a world-class landmark. Snap a selfie with the tower as your backdrop from in front of Lotte Department Store right across the street. EJamsil Station, Exits 3 and 4.

PAUSE HERE

Ogeum Park. This large public green space is a great spot to hike, clear your head, or just chill out in the midst of Korea’s most expansive concrete jungle. E363 Ogeum-ro Ogeum Station, Exit 2.

Situated on the capital’s far-flung southeastern flank, Jamsil and its surrounding neighborhoods would seem like an easy place to skip during a visit, at least at first glance. After all, Seoul is a massive, sprawling metropolis with plenty of enticing destinations closer to the city center, but when you look a little closer, you can see that the Jamsil area has plenty of charms for those willing to make a trip to investigate.

Jamsil sits smack dab in the middle of Songpa-gu, Seoul’s most populous district. This, of course, means that much of the area is residential, but interspersed throughout this sea of high-rise apartment blocks are museums, cafes, great restaurants, green spaces, romantic wine bars, theme parks, and some of the best shopping the city has to offer. There’s also Jamsil Stadium, which, from April through October, hosts raucous professional baseball games, an essential experience when visiting Seoul.

The area that Jamsil calls home is a historically significant piece of land. This was once home to Wiryeseong, the capital of the Baekje Kingdom (18 BCE–AD 660). Traces of this civilization can still be found in places like the Bangi-dong Ancient Tombs, where many Baekje kings were laid to rest.

The area remained largely rural for more than a millennia, a place of bucolic rice fields and rolling hills, until the city began development in the 1960s and ‘70s. By the 1980s Jamsil was fully urbanized, and celebrated by hosting the 1988 Seoul Olympics. Most of the events were held in Songpa-gu, and the games’ physical legacy is embodied in gems such as Olympic Park and Sports Complex.

These days, when many Koreans think of Jamsil, the word “Lotte” springs to mind. Founded by Shin Kyuk-ho in 1948, this corporation began as a chewing gum company and has since grown to be the country’s fifth-largest conglomerate. Lotte has chosen to make Jamsil the center of its universe, in a way, since at Jamsil Station you will find Korea’s largest high-rise, Lotte World Tower, along with Lotte World Mall, Lotte Department Store, and the Lotte World theme park. The company’s handprint is large and firm, and has largely come to define the neighborhood.

Despite the big, bright, and shiny corporate presence, Jamsil still has plenty of smaller, understated pleasures such as the Songridan-gil, which sits in the shadow of Lotte World Tower. This area of old houses converted into cafes and hip restaurants will remind you that the older neighborhoods and modern malls can exist side by side. Both do their part to make the place interesting, and in a way, they represent what this dynamic city is about more than any other place in the capital.

s Sights

Bangi Matgol (Food Alley)

STREET | Situated in Bangi-dong between the Lotte World Tower and Olympic Park, this several-block concourse is home to scores of eateries and watering holes. At lunchtime, office workers line up at the most popular spots, and at night, the place comes alive with Jamsil residents eating and imbibing beer, soju, and more. EOgeum-ro, 11 gil, Jamsil wsongpa.go.kr/eng/contents.do?key=4941& mJamsil Station, Exit 10.

Jamsil Hangang Park

CITY PARK | This pleasant riverside park is a great place to unwind in the midst of Seoul’s hustle and bustle. It’s home to a swimming pool, inline skating rink, soccer field, ice rink, volleyball courts, bicycle paths, and more. In the warmer months it’s an ideal spot to sit down for a picnic, a favorite pastime of Seoulites. E65 Hangaram-ro, Jamsil P wenglish.visitseoul.net/nature/Jamsil-Hangang-Park_/29871 mJamsil Saenae Station, Exit 6.

Jamsil Sports Complex

SPORTS VENUE | Built for the 1988 Olympics in Seoul, this sports complex was the location of the opening and closing ceremonies. It houses the Jamsil Baseball Stadium, where you can catch a KBO game, plus football stadiums, golf courses, a hockey rink, Olympic swimming pool, and gyms that can be booked for use. It also hosts concerts from time to time, including past performances from big name acts such as BTS and Paul McCartney. The Olympic Pavilion exhibit displays uniforms, mascots, and souvenirs from the games and has free admission. Take a tour and learn all about that Olympics, including how the Olympic Stadium here is where American sprinter Griffith Joyner won three gold medals, and Carl Lewis won gold in the 100 meter. Check out Hodori Plaza, where a cartoon tiger called Hodol welcomes you and where the Olympic flame was ignited. E25, Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Jamsil P02/2240–8800 wstadium.seoul.go.kr mSports Complex Station.

JYP Entertainment

NOTABLE BUILDING | Recently relocated from its former site in Gangnam, JYP Entertainment now calls Jamsil home. This renowned company hosts a roster of artists including TWICE, ITZY, Stray Kids, and 2PM, making it a mandatory stop on the itinerary of any K-pop fan hoping to catch a glimpse of their favorite idol, or for those who may just be curious about the phenomenon. E205 Gangdongdae-ro, Jamsil P02/2225–8100 mOlympic Park Station, Exit 4.

Lotte Museum of Art (LMOA)

ART MUSEUM | Opened in 2018, this relatively new museum is dedicated to introducing new waves of modern art from around the globe. From paintings to immersive installations, LMOA is curated with any eye on quality work that also pushes boundaries, with exhibitions of work by artists such as Shepard Fairey, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Kenny Scharf, and others. ELotte World Tower, 300, Olympic-ro, Jamsil P02/1544–7744 wlottemuseum.com A₩19,000 (early bird ₩9,500) mJamsil Station Exits 1 & 2.

Lotte World

THEME PARK | FAMILY | If you’re looking to unleash the kid in you, plan a day at Lotte World. Opened in 1989, this complex contains one of the world’s largest indoor theme parks, an outdoor amusement park, and oodles of other attractions. Major rides include the Gyro Swing, a Viking ship called “The Conquistador,” a giant loop rollercoaster, “Jungle Adventure” water ride, “French Revolution” roller coaster, and the “Aeronauts Balloon Ride” that spans the whole of the park and offers visitors an eagle’s eye perspective of the complex. There are also movies, magic performances, parades, a Korean folk museum, restaurants, a duty free shop, and much more. E240, Olympic-ro, Jamsil P1661–2000 wwww.lotteworld.com A₩59,000 mJamsil Station, Exit 4.

Lotte World Aquarium

AQUARIUM | FAMILY | This aquarium located in the Lotte World Mall complex is one of Korea’s biggest, boasting 55,000 different marine creatures spanning some 650 species. This includes seals, sea lions, penguins, piranhas, sharks, rays, and Beluga whales. The aquarium is kept in immaculate condition, and its underwater tunnels make for perfect viewing of the fascinating, multi-chromatic sea life swimming above and around you. E300, Olympic-ro, Jamsil P02/1661–2000 wwww.lotteworld.com/aquarium/en/index.asp A₩39,000 mJamsil Station, Exits 1 and 2.

HLotte World Tower

OBSERVATORY | Dominating the Jamsil skyline, Lotte World Tower represents modern Seoul perhaps more than any other building in the city. This impressive skyscraper tops out at 555 meters (1,820 feet) and is not just the highest structure in Korea, but also currently the 5th tallest building on the planet. Its design was inspired by Korean ceramics and writing brushes, and if you’re anywhere in its vicinity, its sure to capture your attention. It’s one of those rare high-rises that has managed to inspire awe. The top seven floors make up the Seoul Sky Observatory, which offers easily the best views in the city. In addition to observation platforms, there is a cafe, shop, lounge, and sky bridge linking the two halves of the building. E300, Olympic-ro, Jamsil wseoulsky.lotteworld.com AGeneral admission: ₩27,000; Sky Bridge Tour: ₩100,000 mJamsil Station, Exits 1 and 2.

HThe Museum of Photography Seoul

ART MUSEUM | Established in 2002 by the Hanmi Pharmaceutical’s foundation for arts and culture, this small museum on Hanmi’s 19th floor is dedicated to displaying the work of prominent and up-and-coming Korean photographers, as well hosting international exchanges. It also aims to encourage and inspire those who wish to pursue photography as a career by offering classes and training through its academy. Its convenient location next to Olympic Park makes it an easy place to check out, and it’s well worth the time of any photography aficionado. EHanmi Tower, Wiryeseong-daero, 19th fl, Jamsil P02/418–1315 wphotomuseum.or.kr AFree CClosed Sun. mMonchongtoseong Station (World Peace Gate), Exit 2.

Olympic Park

CITY PARK | Built for the 1988 Seoul Summer Games, this expansive park is still home to a handball gymnasium, a gymnastics arena, an Olympic-sized swimming pool, tennis courts, and a velodrome. It’s most impressive as a destination for strolling, walking, or cycling, however, with acres of paths winding through some beautiful nature. At the entrance you are greeted by the winged World Peace Gate, an impressive structure designed by architect Kim Chung-up to promote international harmony and cooperation. The park is definitely worth an hour or two of your time. E424, Olympic-ro, Jamsil P02/410–1114 wolympicpark.kspo.or.kr:441/ mMongchongtoseong (World Peace Gate) Station, Exit 1 / Olympic Park Station, Exit 3 and 4.

Seokchon Lake Park

CITY PARK | This little park behind Lotte World Tower and Mall is a perfect spot to slow down and enjoy a breath of relatively fresh air. There are actually two lakes (East Seokchon Lake and West Seokchon Lake), both of which are ringed by walking and cycling paths. In spring the park hosts the Seokchon Lake Cherry Blossom Festival, which includes performances by singing and dance groups. E47 Jamsil-dong, Jamsil P02/412–0190 wenglish.visitseoul.net/nature/Seokchon-Lake-Park_/1783 mJamsil Station, Exits 2 and 3.

Seoul Book Repository

STORE/MALL | Opened in 2019, this massive bookstore was put together by the Seoul city government in order to help small, independent used book shops by giving them a big, central space to sell their wares. While most of the books are in Korean, it’s still worth a visit if you have a love for books and the places selling them. The layout of the bookstore is extremely photogenic as well, so it’s a nice place to wander around and snap a few pictures. E1 Ogeum-ro, Jamsil P02/6951–4979 wseoulbookbogo.kr CClosed Mon. mJamsillaru Station, Exit 1.

Seoul Olympic Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | Established to commemorate the 1988 Seoul Summer Games, the Seoul Olympic Museum offers a variety of exhibitions containing information on sports and culture. Most interesting are the items displayed, which include torches, medals, pins, mascots, stamps, and coins that commemorate the different games over the years. If you’re a fan of the Olympics or just take an interest in the history of international exchange, this free museum is worth poking your head into. E424, Olympic-ro, Jamsil AFree CClosed Mon. mMongchongtoseong Station (World Peace Gate), Exit 1.

Seoul Seokchon-dong Ancient Tombs

TOMB | While the Jamsil neighborhood is known for ultra-modern high rises and shopping malls, you don’t have to look too far (like anywhere in Korea) to stumble over some serious history. The Seokchong-dong Ancient Tombs park is home to burial mounds of leaders from from the Baekje dynasty (18 BCE–AD 660). There were thought to be more than 300 such tombs in the area, but most were destroyed during development in the 1970s. The remaining tombs are estimated to date back to the mid-3rd to late-4th centuries, and were discovered along with thousands artifacts such as pottery, roof tiles, beads, and gold. E21, Garak-ro 7-gil, Jamsil wcha.go.kr mSeokchon Gobun, Exits 2 & 3.

Songridan-gil

STREET | This once mainly residential area behind Seokchon East Lake has been transformed into a neighborhood of cool restaurants and funky cafes, drawing young people from across the city to delve into its photo-worthy deliciousness. While the main strip offers the most choices, make sure to wander into some of the quieter side alleys, where you just may stumble upon some hidden gems. Be prepared to wait for a table at the more popular places on the weekends, as the Songridan-gil can attract crowds. E23 Baekjegobun-ro 43-gil, Jamsil P wsongpa.go.kr mSongpa Naru Station, Exit 1.

r Restaurants

HAhn Joon Soo Boribap

$ | KOREAN | While this old-school eatery advertises itself as a boribap (barely rice) establishment, it’s most famous for its bossam (steamed pork) set menu. If you’re not in the mood for pork, you can also order courses of duck or kodari (semi-dried pollack), along with sides of ddeokgalbi (beef and onion patties), dotori mook (acorn jelly salad), and much more. Known for: steamed pork and makgeolli; rustic setting; extensive menu. DAverage main: ₩20,000 E8-2, Baekjegobun-ro, 41 gil, Jamsil P02/416–0671 mSeokchon Station, Exit 1.

HBicena

$$$$ | KOREAN | On the 81st floor of the Lotte World Tower, this highly lauded fine dining restaurant serves elegantly prepared contemporary Korean fare with sky-high views. Multi-course lunch and dinner menus highlight local ingredients in everything from stuffed abalone to dry-aged striploin, every bite better than the last. Known for: stylish atmosphere; special occasions; wine pairing. DAverage main: ₩175,000 ELotte World Tower, 300, Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, 81st fl., Jamsil P02/3213–1260 wwww.lottehotel.com/seoul-signiel/en/dining.html mJamsil Station, Exits 1 and 2.

Buil Galmaegi

$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | Since 1984 Buil Galmaegi has been serving up galmaegisal (pork skirt meat) to hungry Jamsil residents, and decades later it’s still going strong. This is Korean barbecue in its purest form: hearty, unadorned, and deeply delicious. Known for: quality skirt meat; homemade side dishes; old school ambiance. DAverage main: ₩20,000 E4 Samjeon-ro, 13-gil, Jamsil P02/412–1462 mSamjeon Station, Exit 1.

Busan Ajimae Gukbap

$ | KOREAN | This restaurant situated along the Bangi Matgol (Food Alley) is one of the few places in Seoul where you can get a proper bowl of dwaeji gukbap, a savory pork and rice soup that’s the specialty of Busan, South Korea’s second city. The broth is milky and rich, and they don’t skimp on the meat. Known for: Busan-style pork and rice soup; rich broth; delicious kimchi. DAverage main: ₩10,000 EOgeum-ro, 11 gil, 11, Jamsil P02/422–6181 mMongchontoseong Station (World Peace Gate), Exits 2 and 3.

Downtowner Burger

$ | BURGER | The Jamsil branch of this popular Seoul chain sits on a corner of the Songridan-gil food and cafe street. The burgers are made with tasty, lean patties, and the buns are super fresh. Known for: avocado burger; choice of soft drinks and craft beers; cheese fries. DAverage main: ₩15,000 EBaekjegobun-ro 45-gil, Jamsil P070/8868–3696 mSeokchon Station, Exit 2.

Hanguggye

$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | Who says Korean barbecue is just about pork or beef? This joint takes the idea of grilled meat at your table and adds chicken to the equation, which, if you’re a fan of the bird, works very well. Known for: highball cocktails; clean, bright interior; butter chicken fried rice. DAverage main: ₩20,000 E10, Olympic-ro 8-gil, Jamsil P050/71442–7079 mSports Complex Station, Exit 9.

Just Tendong

$ | JAPANESE | This Japanese restaurant on the Songridan-gil cafe and food street specializes in tempura donburi (piles of crispy, deep-fried goodness over a bed of fluffy white rice). The ingredients include combinations of shrimp, carrots, peppers, eggs, seaweed, chicken, asparagus, and slices of raw salmon, all served on wooden trays. Known for: tempura donburi; curated menu; quality seafood ingredients. DAverage main: ₩20,000 E17-3 Baekje Gobunro, 45 gil, Jamsil P02/422–4515 mSongpa Naru Station, Exit 1.

Kado Sikdang

$ | JAPANESE | Across from the main gate of Olympic Park, this little Japanese eatery is the perfect spot to grab lunch in between visits to the local sights. Their menu includes donkatsu (pork cutlet), karaage (fried chicken), and ebi (shrimp) set meals, as well as several different Japanese curry dishes. Known for: value; cold beer on tap; Japanese curry. DAverage main: ₩12,000 E378 Olympic-ro, Jamsil P02/421–3525 mMongchontoseong Station (World Peace Gate), Exit 3.

HKobachi

$$ | JAPANESE | The Jamsil branch of this upscale Japanese restaurant features elegant syokudo (a la carte) and teishoku (set menu) dishes including fresh sushi, pork cutlet, tempura, and sashimi rice bowls. Located in the basement of the Sofitel Ambassador hotel, Kobachi’s sleek, minimalist interior perfectly complements the delicious, yet understated food. Known for: sea urchin roe and sashimi rice bowls; classy ambiance; quality sakes. DAverage main: ₩49,000 ESofitel Ambassador, 209 Jamsil-ro, Basement, Jamsil P02/425–6001 wall.accor.com mJamsil Station, Exit 10.

HMigang Sikdang

$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | If you’re in the mood for some proper Korean barbecue pork, look no further: this highly rated eatery serves grilled samgyeopsal (pork belly) and moksal (pork collar) like nobody’s business. The staff will make sure that your meat is grilled to perfection while you can sit back and enjoy the lively atmosphere. Known for: great service; prime cuts of pork; fresh vegetable sides. DAverage main: ₩20,000 E122 Baekjegobun-ro, Jamsilbon-dong, Jamsil P050/71470–4624 mSports Complex Station, Exit 2.

Paljinhyang

$$ | CHINESE | It can be hard to find authentic Chinese food in Seoul (Korea tends to feature fusion dishes like jajangmyeon [noodles in black bean sauce], tangsuyuk [sweet and sour pork], and jjampong [spicy seafood noodle soup]), which is why Paljinhyang is a breath of fresh air. This is one of the few places in the city where you can get Peking Duck, though you should be prepared to pay for it. Known for: Peking Duck; elevated takes on Korean-Chinese food; course meals. DAverage main: ₩53,000 E348, Olympic-ro, Jamsil P02/2203–9424 mMongchontoseong Station (World Peace Gate), Exit 3.

Saemaul Sikdang

$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | Baek Jong-won is probably Korea’s best known celebrity chef and restaurateur, and Saemaul is his barbecue chain. If you’re looking for very solid Korean grilled pork, you won’t go wrong at his Jamsil branch. Known for: lively atmosphere; nice cuts of pork; bulgogi. DAverage main: ₩25,000 EBangi Food Alley, 45 Baekjegobun-ro, 7 gil, Jamsil P02/417–0120 wnewmaul.com mJamsil Saenae Station, Exit 4.

Seorae Naengmyeong

$ | KOREAN | This popular cold noodle restaurant in the Lotte Mall has an appropriately limited menu. You’re best off ordering mul naengmyeon (cold noodles in ice water) with a side of mandu (dumplings), though if you’re in the mood for a hearty bowl of soup, try their mandu galbitang (beef short rib dumpling soup). Known for: quality broth; dumplings; short rib soup. DAverage main: ₩10,000 ELotte World Mall, 300, Olympic-ro, Jamsil P02/3213–4524 mJamsil Station, Exits 1 and 2.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Bontemps

$ | DESSERTS |”Good times” are had by all who order hand-twisted donuts and dessert-like coffee from this trendy shop on Songridan-gil. Choose from flavors like Oreo mint, tiramisu, lotus, or almond chocolate and multiply the sweetness with a caramel salted latte while you sit on the outdoor patio. Known for: cream coffee; outdoor seating; milk glaze donut. DAverage main: ₩6,000 E42-8 Baekjegobun-ro 41-gil, Songpa 1(il)-dong, Songpa-gu, Seoul P10/8821–7769 wwww.instagram.com/bontemps.seoul CClosed Mon. mSongpanaru Station, Exit 1.

Jackson Blvd Pizza

$$ | PIZZA | Done up in bright red and neon in the style of a Chicago pizzeria, the Jamsil branch of this Seoul chain will scratch your itch for American-style pies. The sizes range from personal pies to big pizzas that can feed several adults. Known for: crispy crusts; classic pepperoni and Hawaiian; deep dish pizza. DAverage main: ₩35,000 E74 Jamsilbon-dong, Olympic-ro, Jamsil P02/3432–0717 xTake out only mSports Complex Station, Exit 1.

Riff Coffee Bar

$ | CAFÉ | This cool yet friendly coffee bar sits two blocks away from the main strip of the Songridan-gil cafe street, which means it retains its own charms while eschewing the lines and crowds found at the area’s more well-known establishments. The interior is sleek yet inviting, with tables and an island espresso bar where solo diners will feel welcome. Known for: espresso foam art; stylish interior; fresh lime mojitos. DAverage main: ₩6,000 E24 Baejegobun-ro, 43 gil, Jamsil P010/3434–5866 wwww.instagram.com/riff_coffee_bar mSongpanaru Station, Exit 1.

Tressed

$ | DESSERTS | Great pastries, creative coffee drinks, and even a few select cocktails are served at this hip dessert cafe. The clientele tends to be young and fashionable in a way that appears like they’re not even trying. Known for: cream pistachio latte; cannolis; strawberry cake. DAverage main: ₩6,000 E50 Baekjegobun-ro, 15 gil, Jamsil P010/3522–1844 mJamsilsaenae Station, Exit 4.

h Hotels

IMT Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | Located between Olympic Park and Jamsil Station, this boutique hotel checks all the main boxes: it has comfort, convenience, and value, along with an English-speaking front desk. Pros: English is spoken; many restaurants nearby; good breakfast buffet. Cons: rollaway bed is extra; few amenities; far from central Seoul. DRooms from: ₩100,000 E41-5 Bangi-dong, Songpa-gu, Jamsil P02/422–0661 a55 rooms XNo Meals mMongchontoseong (World Peace Gate) Station.

Lake Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | Just across the street from West Seokchon Lake and Lotte World theme park, the Lake Hotel is a solid place to base your stay in Jamsil. Pros: deep soaking bathtubs; nice lake and city views; on-site bar and restaurant. Cons: 15-minute walk from the subway station; building is a bit old; sauna is extra. DRooms from: ₩100,000 E158 Seokchon Hosu-ro, Jamsil P02/422–1001 wwww.hotellake.co.kr a94 rooms XNo Meals mJamsil Station, Exit 3.

Pharos Tourist Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | This mid-range hotel between Jamsil and Sports Complex subway stations not only offers a convenient location, but also clean, comfortable, and surprisingly spacious rooms for what you pay. Pros: spacious rooms; great location; free Wi-Fi. Cons: 15- or 20-minute walk from the Lotte complex; lack of amenities; breakfast is extra. DRooms from: ₩100,000 E5 Olympic-ro, 10-gil, Jamsil P02/417–2700 whotelpharos.co.kr a60 rooms XNo Meals mJamsil Saenae, Exit 4.

HSigniel Seoul

$$$$ | HOTEL | It should come as no surprise that the hotel occupying the 76th to 101st floors of Seoul’s tallest high rise is also one of the most luxurious in the city; when it comes to pampering its guests, Signiel pulls out all the stops, with gorgeous rooms, million-dollar views, a Champagne bar, world-class service, and a Michelin-star restaurant to boot. None of this comes cheap, of course, but look no further if you’re in the mood to treat yourself. Pros: incredibly comfortable beds; excellent restaurants; best views in the city. Cons: can get crowded; breakfast buffet lacks variety for a 5-star hotel; hotel lounge is somewhat small. DRooms from: ₩997,500 ELotte World Tower, 300, Olympic-ro, Jamsil P02/3213–1000 wwww.lottehotel.com/seoul-signiel/en.html a235 rooms XNo Meals mJamsil Station, Exits 1 and 2.

Sofitel Ambassador

$$$ | HOTEL | A new addition to the neighborhood, the Jamsil branch of this French brand hotel brings not only luxurious design, but also attentive service and an added dose of class and sophistication to the Jamsil area. Pros: sleek design; new facilities; great location. Cons: rooms a tad small for a luxury hotel; breakfast buffet not a great value; often a long wait during check-in. DRooms from: ₩304,000 E209 Jamsil-ro, Jamsil P02/2092–6000 wall.accor.com a563 rooms XNo Meals mJamsilsaenae Station, Exit 8.

n Nightlife

Bar 81

WINE BARS | Located on the 81st floor of the Lotte World Tower, Bar 81 delivers spectacular views and a sophisticated, upscale bar experience. They boast an extensive wine list and claim to have the largest Champagne collection in all of Asia. None of this comes cheap, of course, but it’s worth a visit if you desire a blast of pure class during your visit to the neighborhood. ELotte World Tower, 300, Olympic-ro, 81st fl., Jamsil P02/3213–1281 wlottehotel.com/seoul-signiel/en/dining/bar-81.html mJamsil Station, Exits 1 and 2.

Bonggu Beer

BARS | If you like your suds cold and cheap, Bonggu Beer is the place for you. This nationwide chain is inspired by Japanese “small beer” bars, and that’s what you get: a super intimate interior with Korean beer on tap, as well as a small selection of imported bottles. They also offer simple and inexpensive anju (side dishes) such as French fries, sausage, and dried squid. E39, Olympic-ro, 32-gil, Jamsil P02/422–0925 mSongpanaru, Exit 2.

Conan

BARS | Head to this chilled-out, homey pub for quality cocktails, and a nice assortment of wines and beer. While the place is overflowing with comfort, it’s done with a touch of class. The owner is friendly, and the bar also hosts live jazz performances. E42-16 Baekjegobun-ro, 7-gil, Jamsil P02/3431–6039 mJamsilsaenae, Exit 4.

Illu Wine

WINE BARS | This wine bar has a terrific bottle selection at prices that, when compared to other wine bars in the area, won’t break the bank. The gorgeous wooden interior is intimate and softly lit, making it the perfect place for a romantic conversation over a glass or two of vino. They also serve pizza, pasta, and Italian salads. E16 Baekjegobun-ro, 7-gil, Songpa-gu, Jamsil P050/7148–26026 mSports Complex Station, Exit 9.

Lionheart

COCKTAIL LOUNGES | A New York speakeasy vibe permeates this old school cocktail bar near Seokchon Lake, especially with its dark wooden bar lined with leather chairs, menu featuring New York strip steak, and a whisky library. E284 Seokchonhosu-ro, Songpa-gu, Jamsil P010/2874–9080 wwww.instagram.com/bar_lionheart mSongpanaru Station, Exit 1.

Saemaeul Pocha

BARS | A great place to dive into a proper Korean drinking experience is this lively bar on Bangi Matgol (Food Alley). Like all pocha, food is the real star of the show, with menu items such as buchujeon (seafood chive pancake), nogari (small pollack), and tongmanul dalk ddongjib yachae bokkum (fried garlic chicken gizzards and vegetables). All of this is washed down with plenty of beer and soju, of course. The fact that this place is open 24/7 means that things can get a bit rowdy late at night. When the weather is mild, the windows open, and you can enjoy the buzzing street life from the comfort of your own table. EOgeum-ro, 11 gil, Jamsil P02/499–2104 mMongchontoseong Station (World Peace Gate), Exit 3.

p Performing Arts

Charlotte Theater Seoul

THEATER | This state-of-the-art performance space is Korea’s first theater dedicated exclusively to musicals. The design was inspired by classic European theaters, and despite the fact that the space holds 1,241 people, it manages to maintain an intimate feel, which means there’s not a bad seat in the house. E240, Olympic-ro, Jamsil P1644–0078 wcharlottetheater.co.kr mJamsil Station, Exit 3.

b Shopping

Garak Market

MARKET | Seoul’s largest wholesale agricultural products market, set in an expansive complex, is also a major destination for meat and seafood. This is a real, functioning place of commerce, and if you’re in the mood for meat or seafood, you can haggle with the vendors on the first floor and then take your spoils to restaurants situated above. While the experience may be a bit rough and tumble, you’ll save a bit of won compared to other destinations in Seoul, and gain so much in experience. E932 Yangjae-daero, Jamsil jHead out Exit 8, cross the street, walk 5 blocks, and then take a right. P02/407–5578 mGarak Market, Exit 8.

Jamsil Saemaul Traditional Market

MARKET | This traditional street market offers a nice break from the high-end, super shiny luxury shopping that dominates the area. The vendors sell fresh fruits, vegetables, seafood, and meat, along with dry goods, houseware, clothing, and many other practical items. There is also a lot of cooked food available for eating on the spot or taking out, such as roast chicken and barbecue pork, making it a popular stop for people heading to a baseball game at nearby Jamsil Stadium. ESeochonhosu-ro, 12 gil, Jamsil PmJamsilsaenae Station, Exit 3.

Lotte Department Store

DEPARTMENT STORE | As if Lotte didn’t have enough of a presence in Jamsil, they also have a department store right across from their mall. This store opened in 1988 to coincide with the Olympic Games and predates the rest of the Lotte properties, which makes it seem a bit dated as a result. Don’t let the years fool you, though: this is a dialed-in place of modern commerce with luxury brands and everything else you would expect from such a mega store. The real selling point is the food court, which offers a wide range of Korean and international choices. If you’re in Jamsil and can’t decide where to eat, look no further. E240, Olympic-ro, Jamsil P02/1577–0001 wwww.lotte.co.kr mJamsil Station, Exits 3 & 4.

Lotte World Mall

MALL | Opened in 2014, this mammoth shopping center includes luxury brand shops, a Lotte Mart, a Hi-Mart electronics store, scores of restaurants, a spa, a movie theater, an aquarium, and a concert hall. It’s shiny, impressive, and immaculate, and it’s worth a visit just to stroll around and bathe in the splendor of hypercommercialism in action. E300, Olympic-ro, Jamsil P02/3213–5000 mJamsil Station, Exits 1 and 2.

a Activities

Amore Seongsu

COSMETICS | Fans of K-Beauty will enjoy a pampering day at Amore Seongsu, a lifestyle cosmetics showroom which offers reservations for testing out makeup and taking classes from professional makeup artists in a beautiful garden setting. It’s not exactly a shopping experience, but rather a spa-like service that allows you to sample 1,800 products from 40 brands. There’s a rooftop to enjoy in addition to the garden-view rooms, and you can order tea from O’Sulloc’s Tea House on the second floor. Booking a two-hour class means you can also take the products you like home. E277-52 Seongsu-dong 2(i)-ga, Seongdong-gu, Seoul P02/469–8600 wwww.amore-seongsu.com xFree, but classes can be booked for a fee.

HE-Land Han River Cruise

CRUISES | Taking in the city from the Han River is a must-do activity when you’re in Seoul, and E-Land (the company that runs the cruises) has a quay in Jamsil where you can jump on a boat. They offer a number of different river tours, including lunch and dinner buffet cruises, at affordable prices. The tours run from 40 to 90 minutes in length. EJamsil Park, Jamsil 2-dong, Jamsil P02/6291–6900 AFrom ₩16,900 mJamsil Saenae, Exit 6.

HKBO Baseball at Jamsil Stadium

BASEBALL & SOFTBALL | Jamsil Stadium is the home field for two of Seoul’s professional baseball teams: the LG Twins and the Doosan Bears. You don’t even need to be a big fan of the sport to have a ball at a KBO game. With cheerleaders stirring up spirit, songs, fried chicken, and plenty of cold beer, a pro baseball game in Korea is an enticing combination of competition, spectacle, and good ol’ fashioned party. E25 Olympic-ro, Seoul P02/2202–3834 wdoosanbears.com, lgtwins.com AFrom ₩15,000 mSports Complex Station, Exit 6.

Seoul Sky Bridge Tour

ADVENTURE TOURS | Thrill seekers can walk across the 117th-floor, outdoor bridge connecting the two halves of the Seoul Sky Observatory in Lotte World Tower, the world’s fifth largest building. While securely connected to the bridge, you can look over the city from 541 meters in the air (1,775 feet). Just try not to look down. Book up to a month in advance online or on the same day at the building’s 117th floor tour information desk. ELotte World Tower, 300, Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Jamsil wseoulsky.lotteworld.com/ko/facility/skyBridgeTour.do A₩100,000 mJamsil Station, Exits 1 and 2.

WELCOME TO SIDE TRIPS FROM SEOUL

TOP REASONS TO GO

Peek into North Korea. Take a guided tour to the Demilitarized Zone to observe both the tension and beauty of this region.

Layover in Incheon. Old Incheon is home to a colorful Chinatown, historic port, and an increasingly hip retro vibe.

Explore Suwon’s fortress. This old walled town’s imposing gates pay tribute to the brilliance of Joseon-era Korea.

Snap photos on Nami Island. Spend a relaxing day on a romantic forested island in the middle of the Bukhangang River.

Enjoy artistic Paju. Discover Korea’s creative side at charming Heyri Art Valley and Paju Book City.

Visit a sacred mountain. The revered Manisan mountain, as well as historic fortresses, temples, and churches tell the story of Ganghwa Island’s colorful past.

Paju. Its Book City is an architecturally inspired collection of publishing houses, bookshops, museums, and cafes.

Panmunjeom and the DMZ. Korean War “truce village” at the very dividing line between North and South Korea.

Suwon. Home to Hwaseong Fortress, a UNESCO-recognized walled city from the late 18th century.

Yongin. Roller coasters, a water park, and a traditional Korean village beckon families.

Nami Island. A forested island in the middle of the Bukhangang River and one of Korea’s most popular tourist sights.

Incheon. Major city with Korea’s most famous Chinatown and plenty of historic architecture from the early 20th century.

Ganghwa Island. Strategic Incheon island and home to historic fortresses, temples, churches, and villages.

Romantic forests, sacred mountains, historic fortresses, colorful ports, a military zone, and futuristic cityscapes — all of these are just an hour or two outside of Seoul’s city limits. This is Gyeonggi Province, which literally means “the area around the capital,” and indeed, the province is shaped like a donut, with Seoul representing the hole. Its 28 cities and three counties are home to more than 13 million people. The nearby city of Incheon, administered as its own province, is home to another 3 million. Combined with Seoul, the region accounts for about half of South Korea’s population.

Gyeonggi Province embodies a rich diversity of landscapes. Several major rivers flow through the area, most notably the mighty Han River and the Imjin River, parts of latter forming the dividing the line between North and South Korea. Mountains dominate the rugged east and northeast parts of the province, especially along the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), while flat wetlands and plains dominate the northwest and south, respectively. Parts of the region are densely urbanized, particularly around Seoul and Incheon, while the rural hinterlands are sparsely populated.

Like the rest of Korea, history has left a deep imprint on Gyeonggi Province and Incheon. The region has been Korea’s center of power for over six centuries — longer, even, if you count the nearby city of Kaesong in North Korea. Imposing stone fortresses dot the region’s mountains and valleys, most notably the UNESCO-recognized bastions of Namhansanseong and Suwon Hwaseong, as well as strategic Ganghwa-do (Ganghwa Island) at the mouth of the Han River. Meanwhile, Incheon’s historic alleyways lined by graceful Western, Chinese, and Japanese-style buildings testify to the city’s legacy as Korea’s first open port and gateway to the outside world.

It’s the Korean War, however, that has left the most dramatic mark on the region. Running along the northern border of Gyeonggi Province is the ironically named Korean Demilitarized Zone, or DMZ, the dividing line with North Korea and one of the most militarized borders on the planet. In front line towns like Paju and Yeoncheon, soldiers, military bases, metal fences, and even road-side tank traps are ubiquitous, while in the south of the province, the huge American bases at Pyeongtaek and Osan remind the world that the Korean War is still a going concern. The most emblematic legacy of the Korean War is the “truce village” of Panmunjeom, where the two Koreas literally come face to face.

For travelers, Gyeonggi Province and Incheon offer many convenient day trips from Seoul, most easily reached by the region’s inexpensive and well-developed system of commuter trains and buses. While some destinations, most notably Panmunjeom, require advanced planning and reservations, most do not. Being mostly day trips, separate accommodation is rarely required, either, though Ganghwa Island, Nami Island, and Paju offer some charming places to spend a relaxing, meditative evening.

Planning

Getting Here and Around

BUS

The greater Seoul area, including Gyeonggi Province and Incheon, is connected by a very well-developed and inexpensive bus network. From Seoul, red express buses take passengers to suburban areas in Gyeonggi Province, including Paju, Suwon, and Incheon. Fare for red buses is ₩2,400 if paying with cash and ₩2,300 if paying with a traffic card. If you’re using the card you can make up to four transfers for free as long as you make the transfer within 30 minutes.

Buses have free Wi-Fi and are heated in winter and air conditioned in summer. Unlike Seoul’s blue city buses, red buses do not have standing room, so they stop taking passengers when they have no seats.

Gyeonggi Province and Incheon have their own systems of red express buses, too. Individual municipalities have their local buses networks, too, which may be useful in reaching individual destinations.

The only drawback to buses is the lack of English route information. Buses do usually announce stops in English, but smartphone apps such as Seoul Bus will probably help.

TAXI

Like Seoul, Gyeonggi Province operates a pretty inexpensive taxi system, as does the city of Incheon, though you are unlikely to need them to reach any of the destinations in this guide. In Gyeonggi-do, ordinary taxis charge a basic fare of ₩3,800 for 2 kilometers (1.24 miles) and ₩100 for every additional 132 meters (433 feet).

TRAIN

Seoul’s extensive system of subways and commuter trains integrates most of Gyeonggi Province, too. Incheon has its own independent subway system, too, that is connected to Seoul’s.

Seoul’s Line 1 connects Seoul to Incheon and Suwon, while the Gyeongui Line takes you to Paju’s Munsan Station. The Gyeongchun Line, meanwhile, takes you to Gapyeong Station, the entry point for Nami Island.

Some lines, such as Line 1, have express trains as well. For example, the express train takes about 40 minutes to get to Incheon’s Dongincheon Station from Seoul’s Yongsan Station.

The basic fare is ₩1,250 for the first 10 km (6.2 miles), then ₩100 for every additional five km (3.1 miles) over the next 10 to 50 km, and then ₩100 for every eight km (5 miles) for trips of over 50 km (31 miles).

CONTACTS Seoul Station. E2 Sejong-daero 18-gil, Sogong-dong, Jung-gu. Incheon Station. E269, Jemullyang-ro P1544–7788. Suwon Station. E924, Deogyeong-daero P1544–7788. Munsan Station. E94, Munsannyeok-ro P1544–7788. Yongsan Station. EHangang-daero 23-gil, Yongsan-gu P1588–7788. Gapyeong Station. E13-42, Munhwa-ro P582–7788.

Hotels

Bigger cities such as Incheon and Suwon have major international hotels, particularly the former, which is home to Incheon International Airport. Smaller towns, however, usually have a limited selection of budget business hotels, yeogwan (Korean-style inns), and bed-and-breakfasts. On the plus side, some bed-and-breakfasts offer more local character than the rather colorless hotels that predominate in provincial cities and towns. In countryside locals such as Ganghwa Island, bed-and-breakfasts often have outdoor barbecues guests can use, too.

Restaurants

As in most of Korea, you’ll be tripping over places to eat. Larger cities have a wide range of restaurants, from swanky Western eateries to humbler Korean holes-in-the-wall. In smaller towns, the selection may be more limited, but you’re still likely to find somewhere serving quality Korean eats.

Most destinations have a regional specialty. Incheon is known for its seafood and Chinese food, especially the Sino-Korean dish of jjajangmyeon (noodles with black bean sauce). Paju produces excellent soybeans, while Ganghwa produces ginseng. Suwon, meanwhile, is virtually synonymous with galbi (barbecued Korean beef ribs).

More recently, a new wave of trendy restaurateurs have been making their own contributions to the local dining scene, especially in Incheon’s Gaehangno neighborhood and Suwon’s Haengnidan neighborhood. If you’re looking for retro cafes and trendy brewpubs, begin there.

HOTEL AND RESTAURANT PRICES

Hotel prices in the reviews are the lowest cost of a standard double room in high season. Restaurant prices in the reviews are the average cost of a main course at dinner, or if dinner is not served, at lunch.

Tours

Most of the destinations mentioned in this section do not require guided tours. The one exception, and it’s a big one, is the truce village of Panmunjeom. Unguided individual travel to Panmunjeom is forbidden—no surprise, given that it’s located in the middle of the DMZ, a highly sensitive military zone controlled in their respective halves by the UN Command and North Korean military.

To visit Panmunjeom, you’ll need to join a tour group, typically escorted by South Korean and UN military personnel. Many tour companies arrange these tours nowadays, though the U.S. military’s USO has been guiding them seemingly forever.

Tour operators usually apply dress codes to Panmunjeom visits, and tours may be suspended depending on geopolitical conditions.

USO Tours

GUIDED TOURS | The USO DMZ tour includes visits to the Joint Security Area and other DMZ sites such as Dora Observatory and the Third Tunnel. E1F, Seojo BLD, 251, Hangangdaero, Yongsan-gu P02/6383–2570 wusodmz.com A$92 (USD).

DMZ Tour

SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS | Since the armistice between North and South Korea was agreed upon in 1953, the two Koreas have been separated by a land border known as the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). On what is perhaps one of the world’s strangest sightseeing trips, DMZ tour participants visit the most heavily militarized border in the world and what is essentially an active war zone. Visitors glimpse into North Korea from binoculars at the Dora Observatory, technically step into North Korea at the Panmunjom Joint Security Area where the armistice was signed, and plunge into the depths of the Third Infiltration tunnel which was built by North Korea to initiate a planned (but never executed) surprise attack on Seoul. Tours range from half-day to full-day, cost between ₩60,000 and ₩160,000 per person, and visit one or more of the most popular DMZ attractions. ELotte Castle President, 109 Mapodaero, Mapo-gu, Seoul P02/757–1009 wwww.dmztours.com AFrom ₩60,000 COffice closed Sun.

Paju

27 km (17 miles) from Seoul.

Paju is a largely rural suburb just north of Seoul. Much of the municipality runs along the inter-Korean DMZ, the highly militarized frontier with North Korea. Despite this, and the prominent military presence that goes with it, Paju is a relaxing place, offering plenty of pleasant nature walks and bike trails along its coastal wetlands and river valleys.

For visitors, the big draws are Paju Book City and Hyeri Art Valley, two architecturally inspired communities of creative endeavor, and Imjingak, a moving reminder of Korea’s national division.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

To get to Paju Book City and Hyeri Art Valley, take Bus 2200 from Seoul’s Hapjeong Station. The trip to Paju Book City takes just 30 minutes, and 45 minutes to Hyeri Art Valley. For Imjingak, take the Gyeongui-Jungang Line to Munsan Station (about one hour), and take Bus 058B from there (15 minutes).

CONTACTS Munsan Station. E94, Munsannyeok-ro P1544–7788. Hapjeong Station. E55 Yanghwa-ro.

VISITOR INFORMATION

CONTACTS Imjingak Tourist Information Center. E177 Imjingak-ro, Munsan-eup, Paju P31/953–4744, 1330 Korean Travel Hotline.

s Sights

Heyri Art Village

MUSEUM VILLAGE | This collection of galleries, workshops, cafes, and shops near the inter-Korean DMZ makes for a romantic day trip from Seoul. The planned community of creatives was designed to harmonize with the surrounding landscape, and features several works by locally and internationally renowned architects. It’s a fun place to simply stroll around and take in nature, drop in and out of art spaces, and perhaps enjoy a coffee and a dessert. It does get a bit crowded on a weekend, though. EHeiri Art Valley P031/946–8551 wwww.heyri.net AAdmission is free, but individual museums may charge a fee.

Imjingak

OBSERVATORY | If you don’t want to go through the hassle of a guided tour to Panmunjeom, the Imjingak Pavilion, an observation deck overlooking the DMZ area, is a mere subway trip from Seoul. The site is home to several Korean War monuments and artifacts, including a destroyed railroad bridge, a battle-scarred old locomotive, and the historic “Freedom Bridge” that Korean War POWs walked across to freedom. Just next to Imjingak is Pyeonghwa Nuri Park, a sprawling grass field with scenic walking trails and plenty of photo-friendly spots, including the so-called Hill of Wind, a hillock covered with 3,000 pinwheels. E177 Imjingak-ro, Munsan-eup, Paju P031/953–4744.

Paju Book City

NEIGHBORHOOD | FAMILY | Built in perfect harmony with the surrounding wetlands, Paju Book City is a collection of publishing companies, bookshops, museums, and cafes, established in the 2000s as Korea’s answer to Hay-on-Wye on the border of England and Wales. The tranquil community adheres to strict architectural guidelines, resulting in a town of real beauty. The centerpiece is the Asia Publication Culture & Information Center, home of the Forest of Wisdom, a network of 3.1 km (1.9 miles) of bookshelves containing more than 200,000 volumes donated by local publishing companies and individuals. One particular architectural gem is the Mimesis Art Museum, a flowing concrete mass designed by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Álvaro Siza. Another recommended stop is the Youlhwadang Book Museum, a collection of 40,000 historic and contemporary volumes operated by art book publisher Youlhwadang. Parents, meanwhile, will love MilkBook Cafe, a book cafe that also serves as a learning space where children can learn the beauty and power of the written word. EPaju Book City, Paju P031/955–0050 wwww.pajubookcity.org AFree, but some spaces may charge admission.

r Restaurants

Mejukkoch

$$ | KOREAN | Located down the road from Heyri Art Valley, Mejukkoch is a restaurant inside a flower garden. The flowers are not just for show, though; they also feature prominently in the cuisine as both garnishes and ingredients. Known for: Meju Flower Soban (a Korean table d’hôte meal); stunning floral presentations; beautiful garden. DAverage main: ₩17,000 E283-3 Daedong-ri, Tanhyeon-myeon, Paju P031/944–0277 CClosed Mon.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Dirty Trunk

$$ | CAFÉ | This cavernous brunch cafe not far from Paju Book City looks like a factory on the outside, but inside, it’s part library, part botanical garden, part public square. The bakery puts out an incredible selection of baked goods, most of them very sweet, along with unique desserts like a “dirty chocolate s’more bingsu.” The coffee and non-coffee menu is extensive, though like their desserts, they err on the sweet side. Known for: coffee and sweets; pasta; extensive menu. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E114 Jimok-ro, Paju P031/946–9283 wwww.instagram.com/dirty_trunk_korea.

GardenUs

$ | CAFÉ | Located in Heyri Art Valley, this beautiful gallery and cafe has a slick modern architectural design, its unadorned concrete walls striking a balance between lines, curves, and mass. They also serve a decent cup of coffee, with the usual choices of espresso variations, but also a decent selection of soft drinks and frappes. Known for: cookies and cream frappe; courtyard couch seating; modern design. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E59-52 Heyrimaeul-gil, Paju P031/944–9997 wxn–o39al9g8udizs.com.

h Hotels

Library Stay Jijihyang

$$ | B&B/INN | Located in the Asia Publication Culture & Information Center of Paju Book City, Jijihyang embraces its venue by providing guests with as comfortable and distraction-free a reading environment as possible: rooms are simple, with wood floor and plenty of wood paneling, but critically there are no TVs (though every room has Wi-Fi). Pros: really speaks to the area; views over Paju Book City; quiet retreat. Cons: no toiletries provided; not many dining options; design is a tad spartan. DRooms from: ₩120,000 EHwoedong-gil 145, Paju P031/955–0090 wjijihyang.com a6 rooms XNo Meals.

Motif No. 1

$$ | B&B/INN | Operated by writer and photographer Lee An-soo, this relaxing getaway in Hyeri Art Valley doubles as an artists’ studio. Pros: social atmosphere with fellow guests; owner speaks English; creative haven with thousands of books. Cons: remote; not a lot of entertainment options (other than books and conversation); only the Black Suite has cooking facilities. DRooms from: ₩140,000 E1652-397 Beopheung-ri, Paju P031/949–0901 wmotifone.co.kr a5 rooms XNo Meals.

b Shopping

Shinsegae Simon Paju Premium Outlets

OUTLET | FAMILY | This massive shopping complex is home to about 270 outlets, including major international brands such as Armani, Hugo Boss, and Nike. The place is designed to look like a downtown American shopping street from the early 20th century, making it something of a local tourism draw as well. On weekends, expect huge crowds as much of Seoul descends on the place to depart with their disposable income. E200, Pilseung-ro, Paju P1644–4001 wwww.premiumoutlets.co.kr.

a Activities

Pyeonghwa Nuri Trail

HIKING & WALKING | The Pyeonghwa Nuri Trail runs about 188 km (117 miles) along the highly fortified northern frontier of Gyeonggi Province, from the town of Gimpo in the west to Pocheon in the east. Divided into 12 sub-trails, much of the trail follows the Han River Estuary and Imjin River, and takes walkers past villages, fields, wetlands, and stretches of barbed wire fence, as well as cultural sights like Hyeri Art Valley and Paju Book City. There’s also a parallel series of bicycle paths, and branch trail systems that take you through the volcanic rift valley in the northeastern part of the province. The trail is a great way not only to experience the natural beauty of this relatively wild part of Korea, but also to acknowledge the pain of the Korean War and ongoing national division. EImjingak, Paju P031/956–8399.

Panmunjeom and the DMZ

51 km (32 miles) from Seoul.

One of Korea’s most visited tourist sights, the “truce village” of Panmunjeom is a powerful symbol of national division and the ongoing Cold War on the Korean Peninsula. This is where the UN, North Korea, and China—but pointedly, not South Korea—signed the Korean Armistice Agreement on July 27, 1953, effectively bringing the Korean War to an end, if not a legal conclusion. Despite being in the heart of the ironically named Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), one of the most heavily fortified frontiers on the planet, Panmunjeom is one of the most tranquil places in the country as the no-man’s land that divides South and North Korea is essentially a giant nature preserve. It is located in the heart of an active military zone, however, so you need to join a guided tour to visit.

s Sights

Dora Observatory

OBSERVATORY | Opened in 1986, replacing the former Songaksan Observation Post, Dora offers impressive views over the DMZ and into North Korea. You can see a collective farm, a statue of late North Korean leader Kim Il Sung, and parts of the city of Kaesong. For a closer look, use one of the observatory’s countless stationary binoculars. There’s also an indoor observatory with seating for 500. ESan 14-2, Dorasan-ri P031/940–8523.

HJoint Security Area

MILITARY SIGHT | This small but unique zone straddling the inter-Korean border secured by the United Nations Command and the North Korean military is where negotiations between the two sides are ongoing. This is usually the only place in South Korea where you can often see North Korean soldiers in the flesh. Within the Joint Security Area is the Bridge of No Return, a military line between the two sides where prisoners of war were exchanged after the Korean Armistice was signed in 1953. EPanmunjeom, Paju rGuided tour required.

Third Infiltration Tunnel

TUNNEL | Built by North Korea to initiate a planned (but never executed) surprise attack on Seoul, this tunnel was discovered by South Korean troops in 1978. Two meters high, two meters wide (6.5 by 6.5 feet), and stretching 1,635 meters (5,364 feet) long, the tunnel would have enabled 30,000 North Korean troops to enter South Korea per hour. Visitors can now tour much of the tunnel, which has been preserved as a reminder of the perceived North Korean threat. ESan 9, Dorasan-ri P031/954–0303.

a Activities

DMZ Peace Train

TRAIN TOURS | Korail operates a tourist train from Seoul’s Yongsan-gu district to Panmunjeom and the DMZ. Three courses are offered, including a Yeoncheon Dreaming Tour, a Cheorwon Security Tour, and the popular Dorasan Security Tour that highlights Imjingak, Dora Observatory, the Third Infiltration tunnel, and more. Each ticket is for a one-day, round-trip tour departing from Yongsan Station at 10:08 am, arriving back at 5:54 pm. Identification and a passport is required. E55, Hangang-daero 23-gil, Yongsan-gu P1544–7788 wwww.letskorail.com A₩36,000 CClosed Mon. and Tues.

DMZ Tour

SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS | Since the armistice between North and South Korea was agreed upon in 1953, the two Koreas have been separated by a land border known as the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). On what is perhaps one of the world’s strangest sightseeing trips, DMZ tour participants visit the most heavily militarized border in the world and what is essentially an active war zone. Visitors glimpse into North Korea from binoculars at the Dora Observatory, technically step into North Korea at the Panmunjom Joint Security Area where the armistice was signed, and plunge into the depths of the Third Infiltration tunnel which was built by North Korea to initiate a planned (but never executed) surprise attack on Seoul. Tours range from half-day to full-day, cost between ₩60,000 and ₩160,000 per person, and visit one or more of the most popular DMZ attractions. ELotte Castle President, 109 Mapodaero, Mapo-gu, Seoul P02/757–1009 wwww.dmztours.com AFrom ₩60,000 COffice closed Sun.

Panmunjeom Tour

GUIDED TOURS | Since Panmunjeom is located in the heart of an active military zone, you’ll need to join a guided tour to visit. This tour takes you to the biggest sights of the DMZ, including the Joint Security Area, the Freedom House, the Bridge of No Return, and more. In order to book this tour, you must submit an application on their website. ETour meeting point, 148-40, Imjingak-ro, Munsan-eup, Paju P02/1588–8889 wwww.panmuntour.go.kr AFrom ₩100,000.

Suwon

34 km (21 miles) from Seoul.

Suwon is the capital of Gyeonggi Province and the province’s largest city, home to nearly 1.3 million people. It’s main claim to fame is Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, an impressive system of walls, towers, and gates that encircle much of Suwon’s historic downtown. Built in the late 18th century, the fortress is a monument to the ingenuity of the Joseon Dynasty.

Suwon is also renowned for its galbi (grilled beef ribs). These aren’t cheap, but they are worth the splurge for an upscale dining experience.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Suwon is best reached by Seoul’s Subway Line 1, which stretches to Suwon. The trip to Suwon Station from Seoul Station takes about one hour.

From Suwon Station, take the short walk to Maesan Market and take local bus No. 13 to the fortress’s Jangan Gate. It’s a 10 minute ride.

CONTACTS Suwon Station. E924, Deogyeong-daero P1544–7788.

s Sights

HSuwon Hwaseong Fortress

HISTORIC SIGHT | The spectacular Suwon Hwaseong Fortress was built in the late 18th century as part of a failed attempt to move the royal capital from Seoul. Consisting of more than three and half miles of stone and brick walls that reach 20 feet in height, the fortifications include imposing gates, watch towers, turrets, and even a detached palace. Designed by Jeong Yakyong, a renowned scholar of the so-called “practical knowledge” school of thought, the fortress incorporates scientific principles and leading fortification techniques from around the world in its construction and design. The fortress was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. With well-maintained paths lining the walls, you can circumnavigate the fortress in a couple of hours. E320 Suseong-ro, Suwon P031/228–3643 A₩1,000.

r Restaurants

Kabojung

$$$$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | Suwon is virtually synonymous with galbi (beef ribs), and Kabojung is its most renowned purveyor. This massive place serves high-quality, albeit pricey, servings of Korean hanwoo beef, beautifully marbled and grilled on the bone. Known for: wine list; hanwoo galbi; classy atmosphere. DAverage main: ₩92,000 E958-1 Ingye-dong, Suwon P031/1600–3883 wwww.kabojung.co.kr.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Jung Ji Young Coffee Roasters

$ | CAFÉ | This hip coffee house in a renovated old residential home not only serves great coffee, but also offers fine views of Suwon Fortress and its Janganmun Gate, especially from its rooftop space. The menu features all your favorite espresso variations, including a rich latte made with black sesame. Known for: scones and croissants; black sesame latte; views. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E22-15, Jangan-dong, Suwon P070–7537–0120 wwww.instagram.com/jungjiyoungcoffee.

h Hotels

Maeholjae

$ | B&B/INN | FAMILY | Located just a few meters from Hwaseong Fortress’s spectacular Hwahongmun Gate, the Maeholjae is a charming hanok guesthouse with views of the fortress and Suwon’s Gwanggyosan mountain. Pros: traditional Korean ambiance; great views, especially from the second floor; peaceful. Cons: floor bedding only; no TVs; no meals are included, though there is a cafe on site. DRooms from: ₩90,000 E27 Hwaseomun-ro 75beongil, Suwon P031/8001–8008 wblog.naver.com/maeholjae a6 rooms XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

John & Jean’s Pizzeria

PUBS | Located in Suwon’s hip “Haengnidan” district near Suwon Hwaseong Fortress’s old detached palace, John & Jean’s Pizzeria serves huge New York–style pizzas, including its signature John & Jean’s Pizzeria, topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, sliced ham, bacon, and cheddar cheese. The Hawaiian Pizza is also popular, but for something a bit different, try the Blue Cream Pizza with mozzarella, cream cheese, blue cheese, mushrooms, and syrup. They’ve got inexpensive beer on tap, as well as bottles of imported beer like Big Wave. EJeongjoro 905beon-gil 27, Suwon P010/7514–5189 wwww.instagram.com/johnnjeanpizza.

Yongin

42 km (26 miles) from Seoul.

Just a quick bus or car ride from Seoul is Yongin, a city in Gyeonggi Province with more than one million residents. The big draw here is for families, who come for Korea’s largest theme park, Everland, and its adjacent water park, Caribbean Bay, in addition to the traditional Korean Folk Village.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Yongin is about a 40-minute drive or bus ride from Seoul. Take the 5001-1 express bus from Sinnonhyeon Subway Station and exit at the Myongji University stop for the Korean Folk Village.

From Suwon, there is a free shuttle bus between Suwon Station (bus platform, exit 4) and the Korean Folk Village that takes about 30 minutes round-trip. If you miss the free shuttle, you can also take bus 37 at Suwon Station and at the KFV 3-Way Intersection exit to reach the Korean Folk Village.

To get to Everland and Caribbean Bay from Suwon, take the 66-4 or 66 bus from Suwon Station to Yongin. If you’re leaving from Seoul, take the 5002 bus from Gangnam Station. Everland’s taxi system, Ever Cab, can transport you from your hotel, the airport, or anywhere in Seoul around the parks; drivers speak several languages. Your fare includes a ticket to Everland.

PRIVATE TRANSPORTATION Ever Cab. E199, Everland-ro, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si P02/863–3541.

s Sights

Caribbean Bay

WATER PARK | Right next to Everland theme park is Caribbean Bay, a water park complete with several twisting slides, an indoor diving pool, kids’ pools, and a giant wave pool. There are several restaurants and “villages” where you can stay on site, plus a gift shop. E199, Everland-ro, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si wwww.everland.com A₩50,000 for full-day ticket; ₩42,000 for afternoon ticket.

Everland

THEME PARK | FAMILY | Korea’s largest theme park is about an hour from Suwon (or about 40 minutes by bus from Seoul Station), but it’s worth the detour if you’re looking to fill a day with the kids on roller coasters and strolling through the zoo. Highlights include the Thunder Falls water ride; Panda World, where you can spot the cuddly bears; and the sprawling Four Seasons Garden, filled with rows of colorful blooms. E199, Everland-ro, Pogog-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si P031/320–5000 wwww.everland.com AFrom ₩50,000.

Korean Folk Village

MUSEUM VILLAGE | Korean culture from the Joseon period is on display at this 245-acre folk village, where you can see recreations of 270 traditional houses, nine work shops, a traditional farm, and museum-like exhibits showcasing tools used in daily life. There are also traditional teahouses and restaurants where you can fuel up, folk shops where you can purchase a souvenir, and a “Play Village” where kids can let loose. Traditional cultural performances by actors in period outfits take place throughout the year. An English audio guide is available for ₩2,000. E90, Minsokchon-ro, Giheung-gu, Yongin-si P031/288–0000 wwww.koreanfolk.co.kr A₩25,000.

Waujeongsa Temple

TEMPLE | A 26-foot gold Buddha head called buldu towers over a reflecting pond set between the Yeonhwasan mountains at this peaceful temple built in 1970. As you stroll, you’ll notice more than 3,000 smaller Buddha statues on the grounds. E25-15 Dongburo837Beon-gil, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si P031/332–2472 wenglish.visitkorea.or.kr AFree.

Nami Island

53 km (33 miles) from Seoul.

Nami Island is a pleasant botanical garden in the middle of a river in the mountainous country of Gapyeong to the east of Seoul. Trails criss-cross the island, making for enjoyable walks beneath the forest’s many pine and fir trees. It’s especially beautiful in autumn, when the island’s gingko trees turn golden. Its sheer natural beauty has made it a popular filming site for K-dramas, so it’s no wonder day trippers have begun to catch on to its myriad charms.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

To reach Nami Island from Seoul, there are several transportation options. If taking the Seoul metro, start at Seoul’s Yongsan Station and transfer to the Gyeongchun Line (7). It will take you to Gapyeong Station, the entry point for Nami Island, in about an hour and a half; the trip will cost around ₩2,350. You can also take the more direct ITX train from Yongsan Station to Gapyeong Station, which takes about an hour and about ₩5,200.

From Gapyeong Station, you’ll need to transfer to the Nami Island (Gapyeong) Wharf (take the green intra-city bus for ₩1,500 or a taxi) where you can take a ferry to the island. While most people take the ferry to reach the island (they run every 10 to 20 minutes from 8 am to 6 pm), thrill seekers can use the Skyline Zipwire to zip-line in. Note that if you use the zip line, you’ll have to take the ferry back out.

CONTACTS Gapyeong Station. E13-42, Munhwa-ro P582–7788. Nami Island Wharf. E024, Bukhangangbyeon-ro, Gapyeong-eup, Gapyeong-gun, Namiseom-gil 1 P31/580–8114.

TOURS

Skyline Zipwire

ZIP LINING | While most people take the ferry to get to Nami Island, adventurous travelers looking for an adrenaline rush often opt for the “Skyline Zipwire.” The zip line takes you over 3,200 feet across the river to the island, beginning from over 260 feet high and reaching speeds of 50 miles an hour. The trip takes about a minute. Service shuts down during high winds, heavy rain and other inclement weather conditions. There are also height and weight limits, and people with certain health conditions are forbidden from zipping in as well. E1024 Bukhangangbyeon-ro P031/582–8091 wwww.zipwire.co.kr A₩49,000.

s Sights

HNami Island

ISLAND | FAMILY | This beautifully forested island in the Bukhangang River was created in 1944 when water rose with the construction of the nearby Cheongpyeong Dam. Initially just a sand bar, the island caught the attention of financier and former Bank of Korea governor Minn Byeong-do, who bought it in 1965 and turned it into an arboretum dissected by lanes of trees. Its tranquil walking paths lined by towering metasequoia and ginkgo draw more than 3 million visitors a year, including more than 1 million international visitors. Be sure to snap photos in the rows of trees at Ginkgo Tree Lane, Metasequoia Tree Lane, and Central Korean Pine Tree Lane to capture the island in all its majesty. The island has appeared in popular Korean TV shows, most notably the 2002 hit Winter Sonata, one of the first Korean TV series to achieve international success. This further drives its popularity, particularly with visitors from Korea’s Asian neighbors. Be warned that the island can become crowded, particularly in autumn when the ginkgo trees turn golden. E1 Namiseom-gil P031/580–8114 wwww.namisum.com A₩16,000.

r Restaurants

Namiseom Kkokko Dak Galbi

$ | KOREAN | A popular place near the ferry dock, Namiseom Kkokko Dak Galbi serves two variations of the popular Chuncheon specialty of its namesake, dak galbi (tangy chicken grilled or stir-fried). Chuncheon-style dak galbi is the stir-fried version, with minced chicken mixed with vegetables and noodles cooked in a spicy red pepper sauce; in the grilled version, marinated chicken meat is grilled over charcoals. Known for: stir-fried or grilled chicken; convenient location; regional specialty. DAverage main: ₩12,000 E1045 Bukhangangbyeon-ro, Gapyeong-eup, Gapyeong-gun P031/581–2127 wwww.nccdgb.com.

h Hotels

Hotel Jeonggwanru

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | While there’s only one hotel on Nami Island, it’s a good one: each of Hotel Jeonggwanru’s one-of-a-kind rooms feature work by award winning book illustrators and other top artists from Korea and around the world. Pros: allows guests to experience Nami Island at night, when the crowds are gone; forest location; bungalows available. Cons: dining options limited; isolated by design; no TVs (might also be a pro). DRooms from: ₩139,000 E198-1 Bangha-ri, Nami Island P031/580–8000 wwww.namisum.com/hoteljeonggwanru a46 rooms and 13 bungalows XNo Meals.

Incheon

27 km (17 miles) from Seoul.

Incheon is South Korea’s third largest city, a growing metropolis that’s home to about 3 million people. Most visitors encounter the city as a transportation hub, on the way to or from Seoul from its ultra-modern Incheon International Airport. A historic port and Chinatown, the closest beach to Seoul, and a selection of hotels, restaurants, and sights means there’s plenty to do on a long layover or day-long stopover before or after your trip to the capital city.

Incheon has been Korea’s gateway to the outside world since the late 19th century, when the city opened up to foreign trade. Its historic downtown and waterfront reflect this heritage, with its fine collection of Western, Japanese, and Chinese-inspired buildings from the early 20th century. So does its cuisine, especially its hybrid Sino-Korean dish jajangmyeon, or noodles in black bean sauce. Incheon also has a dash of the future, too, most notably in its Songdo International Business District, a “new city” and model of high-tech, eco-friendly urban living.

If you’re spending the night, base yourself at a hotel near the airport for an easy check out prior to departure and head to the city’s biggest sights and restaurants in Chinatown, or if you’re staying a few days, venture to Songdo and immerse yourself in the shiny new city scene.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

From the Incheon airport you can transfer to Seoul and vice versa via an Airport Limousine Bus (60 to 90 minutes at ₩9,000) or the quicker option, Airport Railroad Express “AREX” train (45 minutes at ₩9,500). Both of these services depart from either terminal 1 or 2 and take you directly to Seoul Station.

You can also use Seoul’s metro system to get to Incheon Station. It takes 67 minutes to travel to Incheon Station from Seoul Station using Seoul Subway Line 1. Express commuter trains to Incheon Dongincheon Station depart from Seoul’s Yongsan Station, and take just 45 minutes.

Once you’ve arrived to Incheon, it’s easy to get around via Incheon’s own subway system, which has two lines and takes you to most of the areas with top sights.

CONTACTS Dongincheon Staton. E121 Chamoejeon-ro, Incheon. Incheon Station. E269, Jemullyang-ro, P1544–7788. Yongsan Station. EHangang-daero 23-gil, Yongsan-gu P1588–7788. Seoul Incheon Limousine Airport Bus. EIncheon International Airport, 272 Gonghang-ro, Jung-gu jTerminal 1: First level, A to F (1–14 gates); Terminal 2: First level, 1 to 6 gates. B1 level (Traffic Center). wwww.seoul-airport.com/bus.php. Airport Railroad Express (AREX). EIncheon International Airport, Jung-gu wwww.arex.or.kr.

TOURS

Incheon City Tour

BUS TOURS | This double-decker city bus tour takes you past all the biggest sights in Incheon, including Sinpo Market, Songdo Park, Paradise City, and more. E16, 17F Michuhol Tower, 12 Gaetbeol-ro, Yeonsu-gu, Incheon AFrom ₩5,000.

VISITOR INFORMATION

CONTACTS Incheon Airport Terminal 1 Travel Information Center. E271 Gonghang-ro, Jung-gu wwww.airport.kr.

Old Incheon and Chinatown

The old waterfront, Korea’s first “open port”, is one big historical zone that will take you back in time with its architecture and Chinatown. This is also where you’ll find the city’s best museums, restaurants, and bustling markets.

s Sights

Cosmo 40

ARTS CENTER | For 40 years, what is now COSMO 40 was one of Korea’s largest chemical factories. After the company moved to a new facility in Ulsan in 2016, however, the abandoned plant was transformed into an award-winning cultural complex, complete with hip cafes, eateries and bars, market spaces, halls for exhibitions and performances, and even the occasional skateboarding competition. The complex fully embraces its past, preserving the original factory space as much as possible, supplemented by newer additions which is fitting, as it gives the place the edgier, industrial look favored by urban cool crowd worldwide. E9 Janggogae-ro 231 beon-gil, Incheon P050/71317–8862.

Incheon Art Platform

ARTS CENTER | Art lovers should check out this sprawling complex of colonial-era brick warehouses in Old Incheon that now serves as a cultural complex with exhibition spaces, performing venues, and studios. Its artists-in-residency program ensures there’s always something new and exciting to ponder. E3, Jemullyang-ro 218beon-gil (1ga Haean-dong), Jung-gu P32/760–1000 wwww.inartplatform.kr.

HIncheon Chinatown

NEIGHBORHOOD | FAMILY | The best known and first Chinatown in Korea, Incheon’s Chinatown is well over a century old. Its historic streets are lined with Chinese restaurants, Chinese-style townhouses, and a temple or garden or two hidden in the alleyways. Seek out the landmark flight of steps marking the boundary between the old Chinese and Japanese settlements, the stone lanterns that flank the steps representing the architectural styles of the respective nations. E20 Chinatown-ro 59beon-gil, Jung-gu.

Incheon Fish Market

MARKET | Many aisles of seafood vendors showcase the best of Incheon’s coastal treasures along the city’s wharf. Open every day from 5 am to 9:30 pm, it’s the place to buy fresh or dried fish, or just to sample a slice of everyday Korean life, especially if you have a layover at the airport and need to kill a few hours. E37, Yeonanbudu-ro 33beon-gil, Jung-gu.

Gaehang-ro

STREET | Hipsters should seek out the vintage vibes of the cool “Open Port” street in Old Incheon, where many of the old homes and commercial buildings are now trendy eateries, cafes, and shops. Nearby is Sinpo International Market. EGaehang-ro, Jung-gu.

Jajangmyeon Museum

OTHER MUSEUM | It’s all about the beloved jajangmyeon (black bean noodles) at this specialized museum in Incheon’s Chinatown. Learn about the noodles’ history and how they’re made, marvel at the early 20th-century building, and then go forth and order the dish at one of the neighborhood’s surrounding restaurants. E56-14 China town-ro, Jung-gu P032/773–9812 A₩1,000 CClosed Mon.

Songwol-dong Fairy Tale Village

PUBLIC ART | Next to Chinatown is a peculiar treasure trove of colorful houses smattered with murals depicting local fairytales. There’s not much to do per se, but it’s an entertaining place to bring the kids or stop for a photo opportunity and pop into a cafe. EJayugongwonseo-ro 45beon-gil, Songwol-dong 3(sam)-ga, Jung-gu AFree.

Sudoguksan Museum of Housing & Living

HISTORY MUSEUM | Located in Songhyun Park, this hidden gem of a museum explores the lives of people who lived in Incheon’s daldongne (impoverished hillside towns), spanning their history after the Korean War from the 1960s to 1970s. It’s an eye-opening, detailed look into the effects and aftermath of the war, and the recreations are so life-like you probably won’t miss English translations. ESonghyun Park, 51 Solbit-ro, Dong-gu, Incheon P032/770–6130 wwww.icdonggu.go.kr A₩1,000 CClosed Mon.

r Restaurants

Gaehangno Tongdak

$$ | KOREAN FUSION | Hidden in a back alley of the retro but increasingly trendy Gaehangno neighborhood is this old-school tongdak (rotisserie chicken) joint. The place looks like it’s been ripped from a 1980s film set, which only adds to the charm. Known for: entire roasted chicken covered in cheese; lively, retro vibe; draft beer. DAverage main: ₩18,000 E84-1 Gyeong-dong, Incheon P032/772–9292.

Mandabok

$$ | CHINESE FUSION | The food is worth the wait at this tried and true Chinese restaurant in Incheon’s Chinatown. They serve they city’s signature jjajangmyeon, Korean noodles in black bean sauce, as well as jjamppong, a Korean Chinese noodle soup with spicy broth packed with seafood and vegetables. Known for: noodles; Chinese decor; convenient location. DAverage main: ₩20,000 E36 China town-ro, Bukseong-dong 2(i)-ga, Jung-gu.

Pungmi

$ | CHINESE | Incheon’s Chinatown is lined top-to-bottom with good restaurants, but in terms of longevity, few compete with Pungmi. Run by the same family for four generations, Pungmi serves fine old-school jjajangmyeon, or noodles covered in black bean sauce, an Incheon specialty based on a northern Chinese dish brought to the city by Chinese immigrants in the 19th century. Known for: jjamppong; Chinese decor; jjajangmyeon. DAverage main: ₩6,000 E32 Seollin-dong, Incheon P032/772–2680.

Sinpo International Market

$$ | KOREAN | FAMILY | Founded not long after the port of Incheon opened to foreign trade in 1884, this market is now largely known for its delicious street food, especially its dak gangjeong (tangy joints of chicken, in this case boned), Chinese dumplings, and crunchy balloon bread, as well as Korean street classics like tteokbokki and Korean dumplings. Some of the older, more popular places have long lines, especially on the weekend, but the crowds just add to the ambiance. Known for: low prices; spicy pan-fried chicken and dumplings; street food that’s worth the wait. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E11-5 Uhyeon-ro 49beon-gil, Incheon.

n Nightlife

Incheon Brewery

BREWPUBS | Housed in a colonial era warehouse (and at one time, discotheque) in the trendy Gaehangno neighborhood, Incheon Brewery brews a fine collection of craft beers, including the popular and light-bodied Gaehangno Lager, which has the distinction of being Korea’s first certifiably vegan beer. For something a bit stronger, go with the Sleepwalker Hazy Double IPA at 8%, or the Tuxido Imperial Stout at 11% with hints of chocolate and caramel. They don’t serve their own pub grub, but you can bring in food purchased from one of the surrounding eateries. You can drink outside, too, weather permitting. E45 Sinpo-ro 15beon-gil, Jung-gu P070/7722–0705 wwww.instagram.com/incheon_brewery.

Incheon Motel X Ruby Salon

BARS | Record label Ruby Records purchased an abandoned Korean-style inn from the 1960s, transforming it into one of Incheon’s hippest cafes and pubs. Much of the cozy, three-story building hidden in a narrow alley has been left as is in tribute to the space’s history, giving it a charming retro vibe. Popular with the local creative community, the place also hosts concerts, DJ parties, and art exhibitions. The owner used to run a record shop, and some 2,000 LPs are crammed throughout the space. E4-37 Gwan-dong 3-ga P070/7757–4712 wwww.instagram.com/incheonmotel.

Songdo International Business District

For a taste of the things to come, stop by Songdo International Business District, a futuristic city built upon reclaimed land just off the coast of Incheon and attached to Incheon International Airport by the landmark Incheon Bridge. Designed by leading New York–based architectural firm Kohn Pedersen Fox, the city implements cutting edge green and IT technologies to make it sustainable, though many of these benefits are more apparent to residents than visitors. The landscape also incorporates the best features of cities around the world, including its very own Central Park.

s Sights

Songdo Central Park

CITY PARK | FAMILY | Inspired by New York City’s Central Park, this is the star sight of the futuristic Songdo district. Unless you’re directing a TV commercial or music video, there isn’t a tremendous amount to do, but it’s a pleasant place to stroll about gardens, take boat ride from the Boat House, grab a bite to eat, and take in the cityscape. E160 Convensia-daero, Songdo-dong, Yeonsu-gu, Incheon P032/721–4415 wwww.insiseol.or.kr/park/songdo.

Incheon Grand Park

CITY PARK | Incheon’s sprawling city park complex is home to the city’s zoo, a rose garden, a lake, and an arboretum. It’s a peaceful place to stroll, bike, or picnic on a spring or summer day among the blossoms, or to leaf peep in the fall. E236 Munemi-ro, Namdong-gu, Incheon P032/465–1525 wwww.insiseol.or.kr/park/incheongrand AFree mIncheon Grand Park Station.

r Restaurants

Songdo City Bar & Restaurant

$$ | BURGER | After a stroll in Songdo Central Park, grab a bite to eat at this restaurant owned by a Canadian chef. TVs showing sports are a fitting accompaniment to the massive burgers, pizzas, sandwiches, and beer on the menu. Known for: burgers; proximity to the park; sports on TV. DAverage main: ₩20,000 ESongdodong 22-22, Prugio Worldmark 802 2nd floor #201, Yeonsu-gu, Incheon P32/832–0314 wwww.instagram.com/songdocitybar.

h Hotels

Sheraton Grand Incheon Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | Seoul is only 40 minutes away from this trusted brand hotel, which features rooms with views of Songdo Central Park, plus a spa, two restaurants, and an indoor pool. Pros: lots of amenities; good location near Songdo City; clean rooms. Cons: little local flavor; breakfast costs extra; customer service is at times spotty. DRooms from: ₩179,500 E153 Convensia-Road, Yeonsu-gu, Incheon P32/835–1000 wmarriott.com a321 rooms XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

The Cinder Bar

BARS | For good cocktails, beer, and a social atmosphere, come to this lively Kiwi-owned expat bar in Songdo. The staff is friendly and inviting, and even though it won’t provide an authentic Korean experience, it’s a good spot to meet fellow travelers. Bar food including buffalo wings, burgers, and fish and chips are available to order. EKorong The Prau, 1 danji, 102 dong, Yeonsu-gu, Incheon P032/233–3269 wwww.facebook.com/thecinderbar.

b Shopping

Triple Street

MALL | Globally recognized brands like Adidas, Underarmour, H&M, and Zara as well as Korean clothing brands like 8Seconds have set up shop in Songdo’s popular outdoor mall. There are plenty of places to eat too, from Korean mom and pops to PF Chang and Starbucks. E33-3, 16beon-gil, Songdo-dong, Yeonsu-gu, Incheon P032/310–9400 wwww.triplestreet.co.kr.

Airport and Around

The area surrounding Incheon International Airport is a smart base for trips to Incheon. Even with a layover, you may find you never have to leave the airport thanks to a plethora of dining and restaurant options, but Eurwangni Beach (and the rest of Incheon) are just minutes away.

; Beaches

Eurwangni Beach

BEACH | Though it pales in comparison to Korean beaches in Busan or Jeju Island, Incheon’s golden stretch of sand wins points for being the most conveniently located beach. It takes just 20 minutes by bus from Incheon International Airport (take bus 306 or 111) and is within day-trip distance of Seoul. There are plenty of restaurants and facilities nearby as well as rock formations such as Turtle Rock and Angel Rock to fill a day. Amenities: food and drink; parking; showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; walking. E678-51, Eulwang-dong, Incheon.

h Hotels

Grand Hyatt Incheon

$$ | HOTEL | This modern airport hotel makes for a pleasant stay if you have an early flight from Incheon International, and has an array of amenities to boot. Pros: restaurant, pool, and spa on site; clean, sizeable rooms; minutes from ICN Terminal 1. Cons: far from city center; little local flavor; breakfast costs extra. DRooms from: ₩189,500 E208, Yeongjonghaeannam-ro, 321 Beon-gil, Jung-gu P032/745–1234 whyatt.com a1,024 rooms XNo Meals.

Nest Hotel Incheon

$$ | HOTEL | Just a 10-minute drive from Incheon International Airport, this stylish hotel is ideal for those who want to be close to the airport without sacrificing quality or amenities. Pros: modern rooms with ocean views; free shuttle to the airport; accommodating staff. Cons: fee to use pool (common in Korea); not in the city center; restaurant is hit or miss. DRooms from: ₩146,000 E19-5 Yeongjonghaeannam-ro (Wunseo-dong), Jung-gu P032/743–9000 wwww.nesthotel.co.kr/english a370 rooms XNo Meals.

Paradise City and Resort

$$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | The first integrated resort complex in Northeast Asia, Paradise Hotel & Resort includes one luxury hotel, one boutique hotel, plenty of fine dining and shopping, a theme park, spa, art gallery, heated indoor and outdoor pools, and last but certainly not least, Korea’s largest casino. Pros: no shortage of dining and entertainment options; luxurious rooms and facilities; amazing art collection. Cons: expensive; somewhat far from the city center (but next to Incheon International Airport); its size may be overwhelming for some. DRooms from: ₩317,000 E186, Yeongjonghaeannam-ro 321beon-gil, Jung-gu P1833–1855 wwww.p-city.com a711 rooms XNo Meals.

Ganghwa Island

48 km (30 miles) from Seoul.

Strategically located at the mouth of the Hangang River, long the main artery to Seoul, Ganghwa Island has defended the national capital from attack for centuries. Its historic fortresses and coastal bastions have witnessed a long list of invaders, from the Mongols and Manchus to the French, Americans, and Japanese. In addition to its historical sites, Ganghwa Island is also home to one of Korea’s most sacred mountains, Manisan.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

To reach Ganghwa Island from Seoul, take Bus No. 3000 to Ganghwa Bus Terminal from the bus stop near the Hyundai Department Store in Seoul’s Sinchon district. The trip takes about two hours and costs ₩2,000. Buses run every 10 minutes from 5:40 am to 10 pm.

CONTACTS Ganghwa Bus Terminal. ECentral Road 43, Kangg-eup, Ganghwa-gun, Incheon P32/930–3515.

s Sights

Ganghwa Anglican Church

CHURCH | Despite the island’s history of invasions, not all of Ganghwa’s interactions with foreigners have been violent. The sublime Ganghwa Anglican Church was built in a beautifully harmonized Western-Korean style (displaying both a hanok exterior and Western basilica interior) at the turn of the 20th century by British missionaries and a Korean architect who helped rebuild Seoul’s Gyeongbokgung Palace in the late 19th century. E10 Gwancheong-gil 27beon-gil, Ganghwa-eup, Ganghwa-gun P032/934–6171 wwww.ganghwa.go.kr.

Ganghwa Peace Observatory

OBSERVATORY | At the northern tip of Ganghwa Island, this observatory and military complex lets you peer across the water into North Korea with the use of high-powered binoculars. Aside from the peeping and lovely natural landscape, you can also read up on the history of Korea at the center’s several exhibits. E6-1 Cheolsan-ri, Yangsa-myeon, Ganghwa-gun P32/930–7062 wwww.ganghwa.go.kr A₩2,500.

Gyodong-do

For something really off the beaten path, visit Gyodong Island, a tiny island just across the river from North Korea and attached via bridge to Ganghwa Island. Settled by refugees from nearby parts of North Korea after the Korean War, the place is essentially a time machine back to the 1960s, with its retro market, alleyways, shops and Korean-style tearooms. Bring your ID with you, though—South Korean marines will hold on to it when you enter Gyodong Island, issuing you a pass that you turn in when you leave. EGanghwa Island.

Jeondeungsa Temple

TEMPLE | Another highlight of Ganghwa-do is this beautiful Buddhist temple, with its outstanding collection of Joseon-era buildings, including its 17th-century main hall. The temple participates in Temple Stay, a cultural program that allows you to stay over and experience chanting, meditation, and teatime. E37-41 Jeondeungsa-ro, Gilsang-myeon, Ganghwa-gun P032/937–0125 wjeondeungsa.org.

Manisan

MOUNTAIN | Climbing 1,540 feet above Ganghwa Island, Manisan is one of Korea’s most sacred mountains. Dangun, the legendary founder of Korea, is said to have performed sacrificial rites to the heavens from near its peak. The site where he performed those rites is now marked by an ancient stone altar, the Chamseongdan, where memorial rites are held every October. EManisan.

r Restaurants

Ganghwa Island’s extensive mudflats produce a lot of seafood. Pike eels, grilled over charcoal, are a local specialty, especially in summer, when they swim into coastal waters to spawn. Eel is a delightfully rich and oily fish, perfect for keeping your stamina up in the hot Korean summer.

Wonjo Seonchangjip

$$$$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | One of many grilled eel restaurants near the port of Deoreomi on the eastern coast of the island, Wonjo Seonchangjip has been serving fine grilled eel since 1979. You can grill the meat as is, or baste it with a tangy sauce; either way is delicious. Known for: local eel specialty with a side of noodles or rice; soju; lovely water views. DAverage main: ₩110,000 ESinjeong-ri 320-20 P032/932–7628.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Cafe Bongdang

$ | CAFÉ | A beautiful 80-year-old Korean home near Jeondeungsa Temple has been beautifully renovated as a cafe. The crooked wooden rafters that support the roof are especially beautiful, demonstrating the Korean preference to leave nature as it is. Known for: retro decor; jujube and chrysanthemum teas; espressos and lattes. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E23-16 Ganghwadong-ro P050/71342–7506.

Joyang Bangjik

$ | CAFÉ | While Ganghwa-do was always a popular destination for its historic sites, it was never considered hip—until Joyang Bangjik, that is. This abandoned textile factory from the early 20th century is now a cafe and bakery, albeit it one stuffed to the gills with so much retro paraphernalia it looks like an antique store. Known for: installation art; coffee and desserts; popularity on weekends. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E587 Sinmun-ri P032/933–2192.

h Hotels

Daliswim

$$ | B&B/INN | Overlooking the sea off Ganghwa Island’s southern coast, Daliswim is a beautiful hanok bed-and-breakfast that harmonizes contemporary convenience with traditional Korean style. Pros: classic Korean beauty; great tearoom; seaside views. Cons: a bit on the spartan side, with Korean-style bedding on the floor; a little out of the way; limited dining options. DRooms from: ₩130,000 E579 Seondu-ri P010/3799–7579 wdaliswim.co.kr a4 rooms XNo Meals.

a Activities

Manisan Course No. 1 Trail

HIKING & WALKING | Though there are several trekking trails up the mountain, the most popular is Course No. 1. The trail takes about 2.5 hours from the ticket booth to Chamseongdan Altar, including a slog up 1,004 stone steps. The views over the island, including the rice fields, sea, and mood flats, justify the effusions of sweat. EManisan, 18, Manisan-ro 675beon-gil, Incheon P032/930–3879 A₩2,000.

WELCOME TO BUSAN

TOP REASONS TO GO

Beaches galore: Blessed with miles of sand, Busan is Korea’s city by the sea, the perfect place to stretch out and take a dip.

Ancient Buddhist temples: From the mountainside perch of Beomeosa to the seaside splendor of Yonggungsa, the city’s tranquil temples will transport you to a distant past.

Sleek skyscrapers: For all of its history, Busan is the very definition of a 21st-century city, with gleaming high-rises dominating much of the skyline and offering eagle-eye views.

Amazing seafood: Whether it’s grilled clams, fresh squid, spicy octopus, or Korean-style sashimi, the ocean’s bounty spills over into the city’s markets and onto restaurant tables.

Bustling street markets: Traditional markets make up the soul of Busan, delivering a magical concoction of sights, sounds, colors, and aromas.

A hiker’s paradise: With mountains smack dab in the middle of town, Busan offers countless opportunities to hit the trails.

Hemmed in by the Nakdong River on one side and the East Sea on the other, Busan is a city that snakes in and out of valleys and up the sides of mountains. Flat space is at a premium here, resulting in a stretched-out metropolis broken up into 15 districts known as gu, which are in turn subdivided into neighborhoods called dong.

Centum City. Spend an afternoon shopping at Shinsegae, the world’s largest department store, before taking in the architectural triumph of the Busan Cinema Center.

Haeundae. Known for Korea’s most famous stretch of sand, this is the city’s playground and also home of ultramodern high-rise cluster Marine City.

Gwangalli. This beach strip of restaurants, cafes, and watering holes also affords a terrific view of the Gwangan Diamond Bridge, the city’s most iconic landmark.

Nam-gu. This is where you can find the UN Memorial Cemetery.

Seomyeon. Busan’s central business district is also a hotspot for hotels, great food, and pumping nightlife.

Nampo-dong. This old harbor district is home to some of the city’s best shopping streets, along with Jagalchi, the oldest fish market in Korea and beating heart of Busan.

Songjeong. Kick back on the sand of one of Busan’s least-crowded beaches, visit nearby Yonggungsa Temple, or order grilled seafood at the fishing village of Cheongsapo.

Elsewhere in Busan. Outside the main neighborhoods lie Beomeosa Temple, a cable car up Geumjeongsan mountain, an epic spa, and more.

After long lingering in the shadow of the capital, Busan is a city that has finally come into its own. With gorgeous beaches, hot springs, mountain scenery, and timeless temples, Busan offers a deep taste of Korea set in a thriving, modern urban landscape. Koreans have flocked to the city for sea and sun for decades, but now word has gotten out, and the rest of the world is catching on to its myriad charms.

Life in Busan moves at a more leisurely pace than that of frenetic Seoul. It’s very much a beach town and the rhythms of the place reflect that. Still, the locals are known throughout Korea for their gruffness and fiery temperament, though underneath the salty demeanor usually beats a big, generous heart.

Christened “Dynamic Busan” by the tourist board, the city has seen a whirlwind of development in recent years, resulting in plenty of shiny glass and steel high-rise buildings. The town has one foot firmly in the future, with the world’s largest department store, a state-of-the-art public transportation system, and the Busan International Film Festival, which every October delivers a dose of star-studded glamour to what was once a rough-and-tumble port town.

Despite all of these modern trappings, it’s easy to see the remnants of Busan’s history in the city’s labyrinth of back alleys and side streets, as well as the serene Beomeosa temple, the vivid murals of Gamcheon Cultural Village, and the UN Memorial Cemetery—a poignant reminder of South Korea’s recent past.

Planning

Getting Here and Around

AIR

Busan is served by Gimhae International Airport, which sits on the flats of the river delta on the western edge of town. While Gimhae receives both international and domestic flights, travelers to South Korea most often enter the country through Seoul’s Incheon Airport. From there it’s easy to take a connecting flight to Gimhae.

CONTACTS Gimhae International Airport (PUS). E108 Gonghangjinim-ro, Daejeo-dong, Gangseo-gu P051/1661–2626 wwww.airport.co.kr/gimhaeeng.

AIRPORT TRANSFERS

Gimhae International Airport is linked to the city by a metro line (₩1,600 for transfers). Passengers can also ride an Airport Limousine Bus (₩7,000). These leave every 40 minutes and stop at several major points in town, including Dongnae, Seomyeon, Centum City, Nampo-dong, and Haeundae. There is also a city bus (#307, ₩1,300) and of course, taxis, which run between ₩15,000 and ₩40,000, depending on the time of day and your destination.

CONTACTS Limousine Bus. EBusan P051–972–7747 wwww.busan-airport.com/bus.php.

BOAT

Being a port city, Busan is served by both domestic and international ferry service.

MS Ferry runs three boats a week to Jeju Island from the Busan Port International Passenger Terminal in Choryang-dong. It’s a 12-hour ride and costs ₩100,000 per person, round trip. There is also ferry service to four Japanese cities: Fukuoka, Hitakatsu, Osaka, and Izuhara on nearby Tsushima Island. Routes were suspended during the height of COVID-19, so inquire to make sure the routes are open before making plans.

CONTACTS MS Ferry. EBusan P02/1661-9559 wmsferry.haewoon.co.kr.

BUS

While South Korea is blessed with an extensive rail network, buses are also a practical and popular way to travel throughout the country. There are two major terminals in Busan: Nopo (north), Seobu (west), all offering extensive, daily intercity service.

CONTACTS Nampo Bus Terminal. P1577–9956. Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal. E201 Sasang-ro, Busan P1577–8301 wwww.bustago.or.kr/newweb/en/index.do.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Busan has a terrific public transportation system, which includes a comprehensive bus network and a world-class subway. City buses in Busan are blue, with both the route number and destination displayed in English and Korean. Most bus stops are also equipped with GPS digital reader boards that let you know how far out the approaching buses are, though it’s rare to wait more than ten minutes. Stops are announced on board in both English and Korean. Buses can be a good way to get around town, but they also get extremely crowded during peak times and many of the drivers are notorious speed demons. The subway, on the other hand, is safe, efficient, and immaculate. Six lines serve the entire city, as well as outlying communities and suburbs. The stations are clean, well-lit, and numerous. The ticket machines offer English alongside Korean, and the signage in every station will always have English translations of Korean words. They also offer free Wi-Fi for all riders. Bus fare is ₩1,300 for adults, while the subway costs ₩1,500. Your best bet is to buy a metro card at any of the stations and just charge it up ₩10,000 or ₩20,000 at a time, since you’ll receive a ₩100 discount each trip and will also be able to use it for transfers.

CONTACTS Busan Metro. EBusan P1544–5005 wwww.humetro.busan.kr/english/main.do.

TAXI AND RIDESHARE

Taxis are a great way to get around Busan. They’re widely available and surprisingly affordable, and while drivers will know all the main neighborhoods and landmarks, it helps to have any addresses written out in Korean, since few speak English. There are two classes of taxis in town: the black cabs are premium taxis and will cost you a bit more than the run-of-the-mill silver cabs, though you usually only find these luxury cars at the airport. While you can easily hail a taxi from the street or jump in a cab at a taxi stand, your best bet is to have your hotel or even the restaurant you’re dining at arrange one for you. While rip-offs are rare, make sure your driver turns on the meter when you get in, as flat rates are only legally allowed when traveling between towns. Basic fare starts at ₩3,800 and all taxis are equipped with GPS navigation, so getting lost is pretty much unheard of. They also all accept credit cards, and tips are never expected. Rideshares such as Uber are unavailable in Busan, though Korea does have its own slightly similar version called Kakao T, which allows you book cabs as well as arrange designated drivers.

CONTACTS Deungdae Call. EBusan P051–600–1000 wwww.busan.go.kr/eng/bstranspor03. Kakao T. EBusan jTaxi app available for download in App Store.

TRAIN

South Korea enjoys a massive rail network that crisscrosses the whole of the country. Busan sits at its southeastern terminus. Busan Station is one of the biggest in the nation, with service to Seoul, Daegu, Daejeon, Gwangju and all points in between. From here you can catch the high-speed KTX, the ITX, or if you’re not in a hurry, the Mugunghwa slow train.

Tickets may be purchased at the station, or through the Korail app on your smartphone. It’s recommended you buy any tickets a few days ahead of time, since trains often sell out, especially on weekends and holidays.

CONTACTS Busan Station. EJungang-daero, Choryang 3(sam)-dong, Dong-gu wwww.letskorail.com.

Beaches

Busan’s beaches have long been the city’s biggest draw, attracting visitors from all over the country. This is especially true during the summer, when hundreds of thousands of people descend onto the sand in a quest to beat the heat, resulting in a sea of parasols and crowds of swimmers in the shallows bobbing up and down with each incoming wave. Busan’s biggest and most famous beach is Haeundae, followed by Songjeong, Gwangalli, Songdo, and far-flung Dadaepo, nestled at the tip of the Nakdong River Delta. All of these warrant a visit any time of year, though you may find them most beautiful on a crisp winter day when other visitors are few and far between.

Hotels

There are two main types of accommodations in town: hotels and motels.

Busan’s major hotels are clustered around the Haeundae and Gwangan beach neighborhoods and Seomyeon in the city center. There’s also a hotel information desk at the airport, though advance reservations are advised during the busy months of July and August and during the film festival in October, when prices creep up.

Once considered slightly unsavory, Busan’s motels have come a long way in recent years, offering modern, clean, and convenient lodging for much less than the price of a hotel. All come with comfortable beds, cable, free Wi-Fi, and often include large bathrooms with deep tubs. Most do not accept reservations, however.

Other options include condo rentals and Airbnb, as well as boutique hotels, which have seen remarkable growth of late.

Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

Nightlife

Busan is a holiday hot spot, which means people come here to let their hair down, resulting in a cornucopia of choices for drinking, dancing, and late-night adventures. Most bars, pubs, and clubs are concentrated near the beaches of Haeundae and Gwangalli, though Seomyeon—the city’s downtown—is also a hopping destination for after-hours thrills. Whether you enjoy sipping cocktails or craft beer, losing yourself in a thumping dance club, or spending an evening snacking on side dishes and drinking soju at a traditional tent known as a pojangmacha, Busan has nightlife options to match many different ages and tastes.

Restaurants

Busan is a food-lover’s paradise, with seemingly endless dining options. From high-end Hanu beef barbecue to humble street stalls selling tteokbokki (rice cake smothered in sweet spicy sauce) and odeng (skewered fish cake), this is a very delicious city, and the sheer amount of eateries in any given neighborhood can be overwhelming. There are restaurants everywhere.

Seafood, of course, is king, with the raw fish centers of Jagalchi Market and Millak in Gwangalli offering the best options for fresh sashimi dispatched and served on the spot.

But there is more to the city’s food scene than seafood. Inspired by social media and world travel, a lot of young Koreans have opened smaller restaurants and cafes that feature fun, creative takes on Western classics. And no trip to Busan is complete without a bowl of dwaeji gukbab (pork rice soup), the hearty rich soup that’s become the city signature dish.

Restaurant reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

Tours

Busan puts its best face forward from the ocean’s perspective, so there are few better ways to take in its grandeur than from onboard a boat. However, bus tours are also a good way for visitors to get an in-depth impression of what makes this city tick.

BOAT TOURS

Haeundae Cruise Boat

BOAT TOURS | This popular boat tour takes you out past Haeundae Beach, Dongbaek Island, the Gwangan Diamond Bridge, Igidae, and Oryukdo Islets. The whole cruise takes about 70 minutes. E33-1 Dalmaji-gil 62beon-gil, Haeundae-gu P02/1688–3353 A₩22,000.

Tiffany 21

BOAT TOURS | This romantic boat tour offers a lunch and dinner cruise. The night cruise combines fine dining with terrific maritime views of the city. E168 Marine city 1-ro, U 1(il)-dong P051/743–2500 wwww.tiffany21.co.kr ACruise only: ₩35,000 / Cruise with dinner: ₩99,000 CClosed Tues. mDongbaek Station (Exit 1).

BUS TOUR

Busan City Tour

BUS TOURS | Running every 40 to 50 minutes, this hop-on, hop-off double-decker bus tour follows three different loop routes around the city. Sights on the red line include the UN Memorial Cemetery and Gwangalli Beach; on the green line, Jagalchi and BIFF plaza; and on the blue line, Songjeong Beach and the Busan National Science Museum. There are also night tours and history theme tours. EBusan Station, Jungang-daero, Choryang 3(sam)-dong, Dong-gu P051/464–9898 wwww.citytourbusan.com A₩15,000 CClosed Mon. and Tues.

Visitor Information

There are visitor information kiosks at Gimhae Airport, Busan Station, and Haeundae Beach with information in English.

CONTACTS Busan Station Tourist Information Center. E206 Jungang-daero, Dong-gu P051/441–6565. Gimhae Tourist Information Center. E95 Guji-ro, Busan P055/338–1330. Haeundae Tourist Information Center. E264 Haeundaehaebyeon-ro, U 1(il)-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/749–5700.

When to Go

Busan is traditionally where the rest of South Korea comes to cool off during the scorching days of summer. This season kicks off in late July and continues through the end of August. During this time the beaches are busy and hotel rooms are at a premium. While it can be a fun time to visit, it also means big crowds and higher prices.

South Korea has four distinct seasons, with sizzling, humid summers and often brutally cold winters. Busan, however, enjoys one of the mildest climates in the country, making it enjoyable any time of year. That said, the city truly shines in the spring and fall, when the days are warm and nights cool. May and and October are ideal months to visit, though the first week of the latter coincides with the Busan International Film Festival, which means that hotel rooms can be pricey and scarce.

Centum City

With shimmering high-rises, two department stores, a sprawling convention complex, and the design marvel of the Busan Cinema Center, Centum City is where Busan shows off its ultra-modern face. This neighborhood is the centerpiece for everything clean, new, and spiffy that the city has to offer, at times feeling more like Manhattan or central Shanghai than a thriving district in a once-gritty port town. Located on the subway line just a few minutes from the beaches of Haeundae and Gwangalli, Centum City an ideal place to anchor your stay in Busan, especially if shopping is your thing.

s Sights

Busan Cinema Center

ARTS CENTER | Opened in 2011 as the official headquarters of the Busan International Film Festival (BIFF), this architectural award-winning complex not only houses editing rooms and scores of state-of-the-art cinemas, but also features the world’s longest cantilever roof. Perhaps most impressive is the BIFF Archive, where you can check out any film screened in the festival’s history and watch it on your own private viewer. E120, Suyeonggangbyeon-daero, Haeundae-gu P051/780–6000 wdureraum.org AFree mCentum City (exit 12).

Busan Museum of Art

ART MUSEUM | Hosting exhibitions by modern Korean artists rather than big name international draw cards is exactly what makes the BOMA interesting. Recent Korean art and design has a distinct aesthetic and is, in many cases, politically influenced. The BOMA offers visitors insight into recent Korean history and political thought through the eyes of the peninsula’s artists. Located close to Centrum City, it is well worth taking an hour or so to visit. E58, Apec-Ro, U-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/744–2602 wart.busan.go.kr AFree CClosed Mon. mBEXCO (exit 5).

r Restaurants

The Party Centum

$$$ | INTERNATIONAL | The Centum branch of this popular chain just may be the nicest in town. The Party manages to elevate the notion of the buffet by guaranteeing a wide range of delectable, freshly prepared dishes with a dash of class. Known for: cleanliness; Korean favorites, sushi, pizza, and steak; stylish decor. DAverage main: ₩37,000 E79 Centumjungang-ro, Haeundae-gu P051/711–7770 wwww.gotheparty.com mCentum City (exit 6).

Shinsegae Centum City Food Hall

$ | INTERNATIONAL | If you’re shopping in the area, this is a solid place to sit down and grab a bite. The Food Hall offers a good range of options: there are 10 outlets serving Japanese dishes such as cold soba noodles and donburi and Korean favorites like bibimbap and cold noodles. Known for: open until 10 pm; international fare; convenience. DAverage main: ₩12,000 EB1 Shinsegae, Centum City Branch, 35, Centum nam-daero, Haeundae-gu P051/1588–1234 wwww.shinsegae.com/english mCentum City (exit 10).

Woojung Dolsot Bibimbap

$ | KOREAN | This chain specializes in myriad varieties of bibimbap, Korea’s healthy mixed-rice dish that has become synonymous with the country’s cuisine. For the full experience, make sure to order the dolsot bibimbap, which comes sizzling in a hot stone pot. Known for: quick service; different toppings; dolsot bibimbap. DAverage main: ₩7,000 E9 Centumdong-ro, Haeundae-gu P051/740–0032 mCentum City (exit 2).

h Hotels

Haeundae Centum Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | The Haeundae Centum is the largest hotel in the area and given its proximity to BEXCO (Busan’s major convention center), it’s a natural choice for business travelers (and the atmosphere reflects this). Pros: English is spoken; close to Shinsegae and BEXCO; access to in-room cooking and laundry facilities. Cons: generic rooms; corporate feel; far from the beach. DRooms from: ₩120,000 E20, Centum 3-ro, U-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/720–9000 wwww.ecentumhotel.com a543 rooms XNo Meals mCentum City (exit 1).

Premier Hotel Centum

$$ | HOTEL | Just a three-minute walk from the subway station, this hotel offers not only a prime location, but also maximum bang for your buck. Pros: close to shopping and subway; convenience store on the first floor; clean, comfortable rooms with city views. Cons: rooms are a bit small; breakfast buffet options are limited; coffee shop doesn’t open until 10 am. DRooms from: ₩154,000 E17 Centum 1-ro, Haeundae-gu P051/755–9000 wpremierhotel.co.kr a625 rooms XNo Meals mCentum City (exit 13).

b Shopping

Shinsegae Centum City

DEPARTMENT STORE | In 2009, Shinsegae lifted the title of world’s largest department store from Macy’s in New York. At 3.16 million square feet, this mammoth store has a year-round ice-skating rink, a natural hot-springs resort, and the usual international brands like GAP and Nike. There are also 60 luxury boutiques, with brands including Hermes, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton. Visit the 9th-floor roof garden for fresh air and impressive city views. E35, Centumnam-daero, Haeundae-gu P051/1588–1234 wwww.shinsegae.com mCentum City (exit 10).

a Activities

HSpaland Shinsegae, Centum City

SPAS | With 22 different spas and water sourced from two separate natural hot springs, Spaland is a wonderful introduction to Korean spa culture if you’re not familiar with it already. The system is simple and all essential information is displayed in English. Upon entering you will be given a locker key and a “bathrobe” similar to a set of pajamas to wear outside of the baths. For the spas themselves, simply strip off, shower, jump in, and relax. Weekdays are ideal; not only will you save a bit on admission, but it will be much less crowded. EShinsegae Centum City 1F-3F, 35 Centumnam-daero, Haeundae-gu P051/745–2900 wwww.shinsegae.com/english A₩17,000 weekdays, ₩20,000 weekends and holidays mCentum City (exit 12).

Haeundae

Packed with restaurants, hotels, bars, and Korea’s most famous stretch of sand, Haeundae is where the fun goes down. Koreans flock here in the height of the summer, transforming the surroundings into the nation’s biggest beach party. It’s a raucous good time, with live music, dancing, fried chicken, and cold beer flowing freely. That said, Haeundae is about much more than surf and celebration. The greater district is also home to hundreds of thousands of residents who live and work here full time, though you may notice from the number of gleaming high-rises and flashy cars that this is also the part of town where serious money resides. Whatever time of year you choose to visit, Haeundae is the ideal place to base your stay in Busan. Not only is it home to a treasure trove of sights, but it’s also conveniently served by the subway, which allows you to shoot over any other part of the city quickly and easily.

s Sights

The Bay 101

MARINA/PIER | This trendy yacht club complex features two restaurants, a store, a couple of cafes, and event spaces for rent. It’s a great spot to kick back for an afternoon. E52, Dongbaek-ro, U-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/726–8888 weng.thebay101.com mDongbaek (exit 1).

Dongbaek Island

ISLAND | With gorgeous views of the ocean and the Gwangan Diamond Bridge, Dongbaek offers a tranquil refuge among the camellias and pine trees and is a great place to stretch your legs on a stroll. The highlight of the island is the Nurimaru APEC House, which hosted world leaders for its big regional conference back in 2005. E116, Dongbaek-ro, U-dong, Haeundae-gu mDongbaek (exit 1).

Haeundae LCT The Sharp

OBSERVATORY | Marvel at sweeping views from the observatory at the top of this 1,352-foot landmark tower, the second-tallest building in Korea. On clear days you can see the distinct rise of Japan’s Tsushima Island in the distance. E1058-2 Jung-1(il)dong, Haeundae-gu wbusanxthesky.com A₩27,000 mHaeundae (exit 1).

SEA LIFE Busan Aquarium

AQUARIUM | FAMILY | Located in the middle of Haeundae Beach and home to 250 species and some 35,000 varieties of fish, algae, amphibians, and reptiles (the sharks and penguins are perennial favorites), Busan Aquarium is one of city’s most popular family attractions and arguably the best aquarium in the country. Though the aquarium is huge and spread out over three floors, it still can get crowded during peak times. The modern displays are designed with an eye toward education and entertainment. E266, Haeundaehaebyeon-ro, Haeundae-gu P051/740–1700 wwww.busanaquarium.com A₩29,000 mHaeundae (exit 1).

; Beaches

HHaeundae Beach

BEACH | This 1.5-km (.9 mile) expanse of white sand is the most popular in the country, which means there are parasols as far as the eye can see during the busiest weeks of the summer. Still, the beach is home to events year-round, including the Polar Bear Swim and the Jeongwol Daeborum Fire Festival in the winter; it also plays partial host to the Busan International Film Festival in October. Whatever the season, this gorgeous inner-city beach is a destination unto itself and, for most Koreans, is synonymous with “Busan.” Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; fee parking; showers; toilets. Best for: sunrise; swimming; walking. E264 Haeundaehaebyeon-ro, Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/749–4000 whaeundae.go.kr mHaeundae (exit 1).

r Restaurants

HHaeundae Sommunan Amso Galbijib

$$$$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | Opened in 1964 and known for its premium cuts of Korean hanwoo beef, this upscale barbecue restaurant is regarded as one of the finest in the city. The traditional u-shaped hanok building it calls home adds to its deep charm. Just make sure to bring a mighty credit card, or plenty of cash. Known for: traditional decor; gamja-guksu (potato noodles); high quality beef. DAverage main: ₩50,000 E32-10 Jungdong 2-ro 10beon-gil, Haeundae-gu P051/746–0033 CClosed Seollal (Lunar New Year’s Day) & Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving Day) holidays.

Home Bistro

$$ | VEGETARIAN | Situated on a back street in an old house, this hip, cozy space not only serves up a friendly atmosphere, but also the best vegan food in town. There is also a terrific selection of wine, beer, and cocktails, as well as live music on Saturday nights. Known for: great vegan dishes; beer and wine; nice English-speaking staff. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E5 Jungdong 2-ro 26beon-gil, Haeundae-gu P010/7623–1137 wfacebook.com/HomeBistroandCafe mHaeundae Station (Exit 1).

Obanjang

$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | Stroll down the up-and-coming cafe street behind the old Haeundae Station to find this popular barbecue joint that will make you feel as if you’re sipping soju in a Korean drama. With fresh cuts of both beef and pork, it’s guaranteed to please carnivores without decimating their wallets. Known for: egg and kimchi sides; cool, homey feel; samgeopsal (pork belly) grilled on table tops. DAverage main: ₩12,000 E20 Gunam-ro 24beon-gil, U-dong P051/747–8085 mHaeundae Station (Exit 4).

Yoogane

$$ | KOREAN | This chain is the go-to for dalk galbi (marinated boneless chicken), an often spicy stir-fried dish that seems to always hit the spot. Make sure to add rice and cheese to really elevate your meal into next-level goodness. Known for: spicy chicken; cheese fried rice; lively atmosphere. DAverage main: ₩12,500 E814 Haeun-daero, Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu wyoogane.co.kr mJangsan Station (exit 1).

Coffee and Quick Bites

Bee Coffee

$ | DESSERTS | Situated on the newly developed cafe street behind the old Haeundae Station, this charming coffeehouse offers up an array of coffee and tea drinks, along with tasty desserts. Enjoy them on either of the cafe’s two floors or its small outdoor balcony. Known for: open in the morning, unlike many other Korean coffeehouses; signature honey bee latte; outdoor seating. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E27-37 Udong 1-ro, 20beon-gil, Haeundae-gu P051/817–1112 mHaeundae (exit 2).

h Hotels

HParadise Hotel, Busan

$$$$ | HOTEL | Thanks to its Haeundae Beach location, the Paradise Hotel has unrivalled sea views and a resort-like vibe, especially during the summer months. Pros: soothing decor; right on the beachside; on-site casino, restaurants, pool, and cafe. Cons: far from city center; not the best value; Internet costs extra. DRooms from: ₩550,000 E296 Haeundaehaebyeon-ro, Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/742–2121 wbusanparadisehotel.co.kr a258 rooms XNo Meals mHaeundae (exit 3).

HPark Hyatt Busan

$$$$ | HOTEL | Located in Busan’s Marine City, this gleaming, 33-floor tower with sleek interiors and sea views has brand signatures like crisp, streamlined rooms, rainfall showers, and one-touch mood lighting. Pros: on-site gourmet dining, indoor pool, and spa; stellar service; views for days. Cons: a bit far from the beach; 45 minutes from the airport and 30 minutes from the train station; not in the city center. DRooms from: ₩620,000 E51, Marine City 1-ro, U-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/990–1234 whyatt.com/en-US/hotel/south-korea/park-hyatt-busan/busph a269 rooms XNo Meals mDongbaek (exit 3).

Sunset Business Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | Don’t let the name fool you—just a stone’s throw from Haeundae Beach and most of the city’s luxury accommodations, the Sunset is much more than just a business hotel. Pros: excellent value and location; friendly English-speaking staff; on-site restaurant. Cons: busy area, can be noisy at night; weak coffee at the breakfast buffet; views may be blocked by ongoing construction projects. DRooms from: ₩160,000 E46, Gunam-ro, Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/730–9900 wwww.sunsethotel.co.kr a72 rooms XNo Meals mHaeundae (exit 5).

HThe Westin Josun Busan

$$$$ | HOTEL | Located at the end of Haeundae Beach, near the entrance to Dongbaek Island’s peaceful Nurimaru Park, this may well be one of the best situated hotels in the city. Pros: sea views; on the airport shuttle bus route; great beachside location. Cons: building is a bit old; vibe here is more business than pleasure; breakfast is a little pricey. DRooms from: ₩300,000 E67, Dongbaek-ro, U-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/749–7000 wwww.marriott.com a290 rooms XNo Meals mDongbaek (exit 1).

n Nightlife

Abnormal Taphouse and Cantina

BREWPUBS | Located on the first floor of the Pale de CZ building on Haeundae Beach, this laid-back bar features 12 craft brews from San Diego’s Abnormal Beer Co. as well as West Coast–style tacos. Grab an outdoor table, sip a pint, and watch the evening unfurl. E24 Haeundaehaebyeon-ro, Haeundae-gu P010/7544–8830 wwww.facebook.com/AbnormalTaphouseAndCantinaHaeundae CClosed Sun. and Mon. mHaeundae (exit 3).

Attic

COCKTAIL LOUNGES | Accessed by a small door and narrow staircase leading up into an actual attic, this intimate bar specializes in single malt whiskies and vibrant cocktails, bringing a nice touch of old-school sophistication to the neighborhood. E1394-35, Jung-dong, 2nd fl., Haeundae-gu P051/731–7445 winstagram.com/attic_haeundae mHaeundae (exit 1).

Cocky Pub

PUBS | The Haeundae branch of this Korean chain can sometimes seem a bit impersonal, but Cocky Pub makes up for it with its great drink selection, hearty pub fare, and most importantly, its primo location in the heart of Haeundae. It’s the perfect place to kick back with a drink and watch people stroll by. Best of all, on the weekends they open their rooftop terrace, affording patrons terrific views of the city and ocean beyond. E541-1 U-dong, Haeundae-gu mHaeundae (exit 3).

The Wolfhound

PUBS | Busan locals, expats, and visitors come here for a glass of Guinness and typical Irish fare—think fish and chips, bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. They also have a good selection of Americana bar food as well. The friendly Canadian owner and his great staff will make you feel right at home. E2nd Floor, 1391-30 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/746–7913 wwww.facebook.com/wolfhound.busan mHaeundae (exit 5).

b Shopping

Busan Haeundae Traditional Market

MARKET | Situated in an alley right off the main Haeundae drag, this popular street market sells fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, and seafood, along with some traditional Korea items. It’s most famous for its restaurants and food stalls featuring clams, squid, eel, and all other manner of sea life, along with Korean fried chicken and mountains of breaded and deep-fried snacks known as twigim. E22-1, Gunam-ro 41beon-gil, Haeundae-gu P051/746–3001 wtour.busan.go.kr mHaeundae (exit 3).

E-Mart

SUPERMARKET | This 24-hour Korean supermarket chain has branches all over Korea and carries cheap cosmetics and just about anything else that you could possibly want at two in the morning. They claim to stock more than 30,000 products, including handy travel essentials like adapters and suitcases. E1747 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/608–1234 wwww.emart.com mJung-dong (exit 7).

a Activities

Haeundae Sky Capsule

TRAIN TOURS | Connecting Mipo Harbor at the far end of the beach with Cheongsapo fishing village, these private elevated rail cars run along a 2-km (1.24-mile) stretch of scenic coastline that, if you’d rather get some exercise, can be walked in the 30 minutes it takes to get from station to station. Or, for a fraction of the cost, you can take the much bigger tourist train that runs the same route. That said, the Sky Capsule is a very romantic way to take in the views that this pleasant shoreline has to offer. E13 Dalmaji-gil 62beon-gil, Haeundae-gu P051/701–5548 wwww.bluelinepark.com/eng/skyCapsuleCourse.do A₩30,000 for two people mJung-dong (exit 7).

Gwangalli

Once primarily a residential area that just happened to be next to a great beach, Gwangalli has come up in recent years, stealing some of the thunder from the city’s more famous neighborhoods. With sand, surf, and an unrivaled seaside promenade featuring countless eateries, cafes, and bars, it’s no wonder that this has become one of Busan’s premier destinations for locals and visitors alike.

s Sights

Gwangan Diamond Bridge

BRIDGE | Busan’s most iconic landmark is this suspension bridge, an architectural marvel spanning from Haeundae district to Suyeong district. At 7,420 meters (4.6 miles) long, it’s the second longest bridge in South Korea. The best spot to get a glimpse is from Gwangalli Beach just across the water. ESuyeong-gu P051/780–0077 wgwanganbridge.bisco.or.kr.

; Beaches

Gwangalli Beach

BEACH | Even though it attracts fewer tourists and more locals than the neighboring Haeundae Beach, the sands here are equally beautiful and the views much better, especially with the Gwangan Diamond Bridge spanning the bay. The area is packed with cafés and bars overlooking the water, so it’s an excellent place for a sunset or late night stroll. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: partiers; sunrise; surfing; swimming; walking; windsurfing. E219, Gwanganhaebyeon-ro, Suyeong-gu P051/622–4251 AFree mGwangan.

r Restaurants

Gugine Nakji-bokkeum

$ | KOREAN | This perpetually busy restaurant been serving up nakji-bokkum (long-legged octopus) to Busanites for a handful of years now, and has quickly earned a reputation as one of the best joints in town. Customers can choose between three levels of heat (spicy, medium, or mild), as well as add favorites such as saewoo (shrimp), or for more adventurous eaters, gopchang (pork intestines) to the mix. Known for: self-serve side dish bar; generous portions; convenient location next to subway hub. DAverage main: ₩9,000 E410, Yeonsu-ro, Gwangan-dong, Busan mSuyeong Station (exit 4).

Millak Raw Fish Town

$$$ | SEAFOOD | Looming on the far north end of the beach, this complex is dedicated to the glory of seafood prepared in its freshest form. The first floor is a cavalcade of tanks manned by strong women who will net the sea creatures you desire and dispatch them on the spot; you’re then sent to a restaurant upstairs, where everything is served sliced up on a table, along with classic Korean side dishes and maeuntang, a peppery soup made from the bones and heads. Known for: seafood tanks; beer and soju; fresh sashimi. DAverage main: ₩25,000 E1, Millaksubyeon-ro, Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu P051/754–4564 mGwangan (exit 3).

Seorae

$$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | The Gwangalli branch of this popular barbecue chain sits a stone’s throw from the beach and is always hopping. Seorae promises 500g (1.1 pounds) galmaegisal (pork skirt meat) for prices starting at ₩15,000, guaranteeing a steady crowd of young locals. Known for: festive atmosphere; value; great location. DAverage main: ₩15,000 EGwangan 2-dong, Suyeong-gu P051/755–2692 mGwangan (exit 5).

SOL Taphouse

$ | PIZZA | New York–style slices and pies are served with a sweeping view of the beach and the Gwangan Diamond Bridge at SOL. Easily the best pizza in town, it comes with a whole slew of craft beers on tap to boot. Known for: great selection of craft beers; terrific ocean view; Margherita and White Pie pizzas. DAverage main: ₩12,000 EGwanganhaebyeon-ro, 153, Gwangan-dong, 4th fl., Suyeong-gu P051/757–4278 wfacebook.com/soltaphouse mGeomyeonsan (exit 1).

Woosung Samgyetang

$$ | KOREAN | This Busan institution is one of the best places in town to satisfy your craving for samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup). The broth is so clean tasting that it’s almost medicinal, and the whole rice-stuffed chicken in your bowl is fall-off-the-bone tender. Known for: amazing broth; ginseng liquor; chicken ginseng soup. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E68, Gwangseo-ro, 10beon-gil, Gwangan dong, Suyeong-gu P051/751–2984 mSuyeong (exit 3).

Coffee and Quick Bites

Present Coffee & Book Store

$ | DESSERTS | Situated on the flank of Geumnyeonsan mountain with commanding views of the city, this three-story coffeehouse has a classic feel, with chill music, brick walls, and scrumptious baked goods. Known for: quiet reading nook; coffee and scones; city views. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E31, Hwangnyeongsan-ro, Namcheon-dong, Suyeong-gu P070/7863–5066 mGeumyeonsan (exit 6).

h Hotels

Benikea Hotel Press

$ | HOTEL | This smaller hotel has more of a boutique feel to it than Busan’s other mid-range options. Pros: decent-sized rooms; flat screen TVs; close to subway and nightlife. Cons: a bit far from the beach; a dearth of hotel facilities; not on the airport limousine bus route. DRooms from: ₩70,000 E21, Gwangnam-ro, Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu P051/611–0003 a30 rooms XNo Meals mNamcheon (exit 3).

Hotel Aqua Palace

$$ | HOTEL | With a rooftop saltwater pool, indoor pool, waterslide, sauna, spa, and hot spring bath, the Hotel Aqua Palace is the reigning king of the Gwangalli strip. Pros: great sauna; right on the beach; amazing ocean views. Cons: 10-minute walk from the subway; pool access costs extra; area gets busy and loud in the summer. DRooms from: ₩110,000 E225, Gwanganhaebyeon-ro, Gwangan-dong, Busan jGo out Gwangan exit 5 and walk down the road to the beach. Take a right and you’ll see the property. P051/790–2300 a112 rooms XNo Meals mGwangan (exit 1).

n Nightlife

Bar Di Lan

WINE BARS | Helmed by a couple from New York City, this quiet, elegant bar boasts a deep wine list, as well great cocktails and top-shelf whiskies. They also serve proper European-style dishes, bringing a touch of Lisbon and Rome to the back streets of Busan. E31-1, Namcheonbada-ro, Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu P010/3319–8520 winstagram.com/bar_di.lan mGeomyeonsan (exit 1).

Gorilla Brewing

BREWPUBS | Located in a massive second-story space just a couple of blocks from the beach, Gorilla has the most comprehensive selection of craft beers in the city, featuring their own great brews, along with loads of revolving guest taps. The atmosphere is laid back, the music always chill, and their Western-style barbecue menu never fails to hit the spot. E25, Gwangnam-ro, Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu P051/724–6258 wgorillabrewingcompany.com mGwangan (exit 5).

HHQ Gwangan

BARS | Appropriately named, this rollicking Western bar is indeed the headquarters for expat nightlife in Busan, though it also attracts a significant Korean clientele. With quality drinks, live music, amazingly good pub grub, and a million-dollar view of the Gwangan Diamond Bridge, HQ is always a hoot. It’s also the best place in town to watch sports, and the staff and owners are as friendly as it gets. E237, Gwanganhaebyeon-ro, Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu jAbout a 10-minute walk from the subway down to the beach road, then take a left. P070/4419–1213 wfacebook.com/hq.bar.5 mGwangan (exit 3).

a Activities

Crazy Surfers Gwangalli

STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING | While not known for its big breaks, Gwangalli does attract a smattering of wave riders, and this school specializes in both surfing and stand up paddleboard (SUP). From May to September they offer a weekend sunset SUP session that goes all the way to the Gwangalli Bridge and back, providing an ideal way to watch the day melt into evening. Lessons are available in English. EGwangan-ro, 48 Beongil,29, Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu P010/4033–9804 AFrom ₩25,000 CClosed Nov.–Mar. mGwangan (exit 5).

Nam-gu

While most visitors come here to pay their respects at the UN Memorial Cemetery, there is more to the area than this solemn site. With arts and culture, great restaurants, two major universities, spirited nightlife, as well as some of the most rugged natural splendor the city has to offer, Nam-gu has something for everyone.

s Sights

Busan Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | Though it has a reputation for being slightly old-fashioned, the Busan Museum is ground zero for the art, culture, and history of Busan. Casual visitors may not be too interested in the first-floor galleries, but the second floor is fascinating. Here you’ll find detailed explanation of the recent history of Busan and Korea, the Korean War, and the relationship between Japan and Korea. The video installations are all in Korean but the rest of the texts are in English. E63, UN Pyeonghwa-ro, Nam-gu P051/610–7111 wmuseum.busan.go.kr AFree mDaeyeon (exit 3).

Igidae Coastal Trail

TRAIL | Affording some of the most breathtaking vistas in the city, this 2.9 mile–long path winds along through pine forests, rugged beaches, and up and over the kind of rocky outcroppings that define the Korean coast. Though it’s just a stone’s throw from the sometimes claustrophobic crush of the city, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped into an unspoiled world. Igidae is the perfect place to move your muscles and and clear your head while taking in views of the Gwangan Diamond Bridge, Dongbaek Island, and the azure stretch of the East Sea. E105-20 Igidaegongwon-ro, Yongho 3(sam)-dong, Nam-gu, Nam-gu AFree mKyungsung-Pukyong University (exit 1).

HUN Memorial Cemetery

CEMETERY | A visit here serves as a reminder of Korea’s recent past and the continuing state of political affairs on the peninsula. During the Korean war, almost 41,000 UN soldiers lost their lives; and approximately 2,300 people, from eleven nations, are interred here. While all of the fallen from the USA and seven other countries have been repatriated, the flags of the twenty-one nations that participated fly over the cemetery today. E93, UN Pyeonghwa-Ro, Nam-gu P051/625–0625 wwww.unmck.or.kr AFree mDaeyeon (exit 3).

r Restaurants

Deohada

$$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | This booming barbecue joint near Kyungsung and Pukyong universities offers amazing bang for your buck. The restaurant specializes in thick cuts of water-aged samgyeopsal (pork belly) at low prices. Known for: convenient location close to subway; university crowd; great value. DAverage main: ₩13,000 EYongso-ro, 7, beon-gil, 53-6, Nam-gu P051/612–8283 mKyungsung/Pukyong University (exit 1).

Ssangdoongi Dwaeji Gukbap

$ | KOREAN | Nothing says “Busan” more than its signature dish of dwaeji gukbap (pork rice soup), and Ssangdoongi is one of the most popular places in town. Warm your insides with pure savory goodness at this institution, but be prepared to wait, as there is often a line. Known for: great kimchi; rich broth; fun atmosphere. DAverage main: ₩8,500 E35-1 UN pyeonghwa-ro, Nam-gu P051/628–7020 mDaeyeon (exit 3).

h Hotels

Le Idea Hotel

$ | HOTEL | Just a five-minute walk from the UN Memorial Cemetery, this hotel offers nice, comfortable rooms for a very good price. Pros: many rooms have decent city views; walk-in shower and bidet; free Wi-Fi. Cons: no extra beds; a bit far from the city center; limited English spoken. DRooms from: ₩50,000 E35, UN pyeonghwa-ro, Daeyeon-dong, Nam-gu P051/611–6642 widea.busan-hotel.com a52 rooms mDaeyeon (exit 3).

n Nightlife

Galmegi Brewing KSU

BREWPUBS | Galmegi was one of the the first brewers to bring proper craft beer to Busan, and this branch near Kyungsung University features all of their staples, along with rotating seasonal varieties. This second-story pub is clean and airy, with windows looking out onto the side streets below, making it a perfect spot for sipping a quiet pint and watching the world go by. ESuyeong-ro, 334beon-gil, 13, Daeyon-dong, 2nd floor, Nam-gu P051/926–4324 wwww.galmegibrewing.com mKyungsung/Pukyong University (exit 1).

Ol’ 55

LIVE MUSIC | With cold beer, strong cocktails, wood-fired pizza, and a whole wall of classic vinyl, this friendly basement bar has been a center of the Busan music scene since 2006. The Canadian owner books live music several nights a week, running the gamut from rock, blues, jazz, indie, reggae, to hip-hop, and more. EDaeyon-dong 60-4, Yongsoro 19 St. #26, Nam-gu wwww.facebook.com/liveatOL55 mKyungsung/Pukyong Univeristy (exit 1).

p Performing Arts

Busan Cultural Center

ARTS CENTERS | FAMILY | Home to three metropolitan orchestras, two choruses, as well as a dance and a theater troupe, this massive, four-venue complex is the undisputed headquarters for region’s arts and performance scene. In addition to regular shows from the house companies, the center also hosts touring musical theater and opera performances. EUN pyeonghwa-ro 76, beon-gil, Daeyon-dong, Nam-gu P051/607–6000 wbscc.or.kr/eng AAdmission varies by performance mDaeyon (exit 5).

Seomyeon

As Busan’s bustling core and de facto downtown, Seomyeon plays the role of central business district by day and party hotspot by night. The streets surrounding the Lotte Hotel are famous for their pojangmacha—wheeled carts that turn into raucous drinking tents after the sun goes down—while the maze of alleys near Judie’s Taewah Department Store draws young people from all over the city with its promise of music, food, and booze-fueled revelry. The adjacent neighborhoods also offer a cornucopia of pursuits, from the hipster delights of Jeonpo Cafe Street to the seemingly endless sights, sounds, and smells of Bujeon Market, the city’s largest traditional center of commerce.

s Sights

HBujeon Market

MARKET | Just a short stroll from central Seomyeon is one of Busan’s great treasures: Bujeon Market. This sprawling complex is the largest in the city, a dizzying, full-force blast to the senses that reminds you just how exciting Korea can be. Whether you’re in the mood for seafood, kimchi, fresh fruit, chili powder, dried squid, veggies, or live turtles, Bujeon has it all, along with a festive, frenetic atmosphere that’s sure to get your blood pumping and mouth watering. You don’t even have to buy anything: the market is worth a visit just for the experience alone, though you’d be foolish not to snack at one of the many food stalls. E23, Jungang-daero, 783 beon-gil, Bujeon-dong, Busanjin-gu mBujeon, (exit 1).

Jeonpo Cafe Street

NEIGHBORHOOD | Situated in the quieter Jeonpo neighborhood, this hip district hosts numerous cafes, dessert joints, specialty restaurants, and small bars. Once home to industrial machine shops, young entrepreneurs began to move in around 2009, taking advantage of the stylish spaces and cheap rents. Since then the area has really taken off, especially after a high-profile mention in The New York Times. The main street has since become dominated by corporate brands (think Starbucks), while the funky, little cafes and eateries have largely moved to the fringes of the neighborhood, so don’t be afraid to walk a little bit extra in search of that perfect cappuccino, craft beer, or slice of cake. E26, Jeonpo-daero 199 beon-gil, Munhyeon-dong, Busanjin-gu mJeonpo (exit 7).

r Restaurants

Gijang Sonkalguksu

$ | KOREAN | Located off a side street in Seomyeon Market, this is one of the most famous kalguksu (knife cut noodles) joints in the city. The broth is savory and clean, and the noodles are all made the old-school way: by hand. Known for: value; lively market location; hand-made noodles. DAverage main: ₩5,000 E56, Seomyeon-ro, Bujeon-dong, Busanjin-gu P051/806–6823 mSeomyeon (exit 2).

Mugunghwa

$$$$ | KOREAN | Perched on the 43rd floor of the Lotte Hotel, the Mugunghwa offers lucky diners sweeping views of the city and the distant hills. This elegant restaurant has five private rooms (for four to fifteen diners) in addition to its light, spacious main room. Known for: upscale ambience and views; galbi (grilled short ribs); Korean liquors. DAverage main: ₩40,000 ELotte Hotel, 772, Gaya-Daero, Bujeon-dong, 43rd fl., Busanjin-gu P051/810–6330 wwww.lottehotel.com/busan-hotel/en/dining/restaurant-mugunghwa.html mSeomyeon (exit 7).

Waeshik Il Beonga

$$$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | The Seomyeon branch of this popular beef galbi (rib meat) barbecue chain is both elegant and immaculate, complete with a small stream running through the building. The restaurant specializes in fresh cuts of imported beef (American and Australian), making it slightly easier on the wallet than the places that only serve Korean hanwoo. Known for: great side dishes; beef ribs at an affordable price; classy ambience. DAverage main: ₩30,000 ESincheon dae-ro 222, Danggam-dong, Busanjin-gu P051/816–0007 wfirst1st.com mBuam (exit 4).

h Hotels

Hotel Angel

$$ | HOTEL | The Angel is centrally located, a short walk from the Seomyeon subway interchange, and offers great value for the money. Pros: free Wi-Fi; cheap rates; affordable on-site café. Cons: uninspiring décor; area can be noisy; small rooms. DRooms from: ₩156,000 E46-7, Jungang-daero, Bujeon-dong, Busanjin-gu P051/802–8223 a56 rooms XNo Meals.

Lotte Hotel Busan

$$$ | HOTEL | Laying claim as Busan’s biggest business resort hotel, this bustling, 43-story structure is indeed an excellent choice for anyone who prizes a central location and handy little extras like cell phone rental. Pros: great location; handy extras like duty free shopping; on-site restaurant and casino. Cons: lobby can get busy; hotel’s large size makes it seem impersonal; Internet access costs extra. DRooms from: ₩225,000 E772, Gaya-Daero, Bujeon-dong, Busanjin-gu P051/810–1100 wwww.lottehotel.com/busan-hotel/en.html a650 rooms XNo Meals mSeomyeon (exit 7).

n Nightlife

Savoy

BARS | Set up like an old English pub, this dark, chilled-out bar offers nice beers on tap, solid cocktails, and a great selection of jazz and blues on vinyl. The owner clearly understands the power of atmosphere, and the music alone makes Savoy a true gem in a sea of bars where K-pop (though a fun choice) is usually blasted at deafening volumes. E28, Seojeon-ro, 10 beon-gil, Bujeon-dong, Busanjin-gu P051/469–4120 mSeomyeon (exit 2).

Seomyeon Pojangmacha Street

BARS | Forming a U-shape in the streets behind the Lotte Hotel, Seomyeon Pojangmacha Street is dedicated to the disappearing art of old-school Korean tent drinking. Most always staffed by tough, no-nonsense older women, these covered carts offer a simple bench or stool at a tiny counter, where you can nosh on side dishes whipped up on the spot and wash it all down with cold beer, makgeolli (rice wine), or bottles of soju. The food at a pojangmacha is usually good, so much so that it’s often the star of the show. And the camaraderie you form with other patrons while eating and drinking together in such cozy environs is something you’ll take with you long after your hangover is gone. E40, Gaya-daero 772 gil, Bujeon-dong, Busanjin-gu mSeomyeon (exit 7).

Nampo-dong and Vicinity

Nestled against the deep jade waters of the old harbor, this is where Busan really comes alive. Once the city center, Nampo is an intoxicating blend of old and new, a maze of alleys and sidestreets home to fishmongers, luxury boutiques, street vendors, food stalls, phone shops, underground malls, hillside settlements, historic restaurants, hole-in-the-wall bars, and funky cafes. Nampo-dong is where you’ll find several of Busan’s most important markets, including Jagalchi, the oldest seafood exchange in Korea. In addition, its main shopping strip is the city’s most established-destination for big brand stores, such as Nike and Adidas. The Busan International Film Festival also got its start here, and the area is a haven for street food, most famously hotteok, a hotcake with a gooey, melted brown sugar center that’s well worth lining up for. The alleys of Nampo-dong are magical, possessed with an energy that’s hard to wrap your head around until you’ve actually tasted the air, taken in the sounds, and soaked up its splendid verve firsthand. Once you have, you’ll never forget it, and may find yourself wishing to return again and again.

s Sights

BIFF Square

PLAZA/SQUARE | Packed with street food vendors and shopping stalls draped in neon lights, this lively area is also the main venue for the Busan International Film Festival (BIFF). It’s sprinkled with first-run movie theaters and, like the Hollywood Walk of Fame, lined with handprints of the most famous Korean actors. E58-1 Gudeok-ro, Jung-gu, Nampo-dong mJagalchi.

40 Steps

HISTORIC SIGHT | Walking up this flight of 40 stairs is a symbolic act: the climber is reminded of the struggle of refugees displaced by the Korean War. During that time, the area was a transportation hub where refugees would gather to set up camp in makeshift housing and meet up with loved ones from whom they’d been separated after fleeing their hometowns. Today, the area pays tribute to this history with several statues. E40gyedan-gil, Jungang-gu, Jung-gu wwww.visitbusan.net.

Gamcheon Cultural Village

TOWN | Originally a hillside shanty town, Gamcheon Cultural Village has blossomed into one of the city’s premier tourist attractions. In 2009 the tiny houses and warren of alleys and staircases were given a radical makeover, transforming this former slum into a chromatic mishmash of diminutive residences, art spaces, cafes, and vivid murals. While the village is open year-round, please keep in mind that this is a place where real people live and work, so please exercise courtesy and never take photographs of people without their permission. E200, Gamnae 1-ro, Ami-dong, Nampo-dong jJump on the small bus in front of the Pusan National University Hospital. It will take you up the hill to the village. P1330 Korean Travel Helpline wgamcheon.or.kr mToseong (exit 6).

; Beaches

Songdo Beach

BEACH | Created in in 1913, Songdo was Busan’s first official beach. Once a neglected, shabby piece of sand, in recent years the little cove has undergone a remarkable transformation, making it a terrific place to spend an afternoon or evening. While some sunbathe or swim during the furnace blast of the Korean summer, most head to Songdo to stroll along its glass-bottomed skywalk, or better yet, catch ride in the cable car that glides over the waves to the rugged splendor of nearby Amnam Park. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; fee parking; showers; toilets. Best for: sunrise; swimming; walking. E100, Songdohaebyeon-ro, Amnan-dong, Nampo-dong j5-min taxi from Jagalchi Station P1330 mJagalchi (exit 2).

r Restaurants

Hon Chamchi

$$$$ | SUSHI | Situated near the famous 40 Steps in the historic Jungan-dong neighborhood, this all-you-can-eat tuna sashimi restaurant is worth the trip for not only the succulent slices of fish, but also the intimate ambience. Make sure to sit at the cozy bar and treat yourself to the deluxe set (₩50,000), while sushi Chef Kim transports you with cut after cut of amazing tuna and more. Known for: fresh tuna sashimi; personal service; intimate sushi bar atmosphere. DAverage main: ₩38,000 EDongwan-gil, 46, Jungan-dong, Jung-gu P051/468–9985 mJungang-dong (exit 11).

Sinbalwon

$ | CHINESE | While dumplings are easy to find in Busan, no one comes close the sublimity of Sinbalwon, a tiny spot on the Chinatown Street across from Busan Station. Whether you like them fried golden brown or tenderly steamed, this popular joint delivers the goods and then some. Known for: handmade dumplings; intimate atmosphere; great location. DAverage main: ₩6,000 E62, Daeyeong-ro, 243 beongil, Choryang-dong, Dong-gu P051/467–0177 CClosed Tues. mBusan Station (exit 3).

Coffee and Quick Bites

Brown Hands Coffee

$ | DESSERTS | Occupying the first floor of a renovated hospital building, this cool cafe offers plenty of exposed-brick hipster vibes to go with its excellent coffee and dessert items. Known for: trendy, industrial look; location next to Busan Station; lattes, tea, and cake. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E16, Jungang-daero 209 beon-gil, Choryang-dong, Dong-gu P051/464–0332 mBusan Station (exit 7).

b Shopping

Bupyeong Kkangtong Market

MARKET | Separated from the more famous Gukje complex by just one street, this colossal covered market specializes in imported goods and best of all, loads of great food stalls. To really get into the spirit of things, sit down at a plastic stool and dive into a bowl of guksu (thin noodles) or some of Busan’s best bindaeddeok (mung bean pancake). And don’t forget wash it all down with a fresh bottle of makgeolli (rice wine). Bupyeong is the site of city’s only proper night market as well, running every day until 11:30 pm. E48, Bupyeong 1-gil, Bupyeong-dong, Jung-gu P1330 Korean Travel Helpline wbupyeong-market.com mJagalchi Station (exit 5).

Gukje Market

MARKET | Busan’s most sprawling market sells everything from clothes and jewelry to bowls of steaming noodles and bean porridge. It’s hard to know where the various market buildings begin and end, and when Gukje Market becomes Bupyeong Kkangtong Market. What is certain is the lively atmosphere and great eats such as dangmyeon (glass noodles) and chungmu gimbap (seaweed rice rolls with spicy radish) served up on Gukje’s famous food street. The market was also the setting for the 2014 hit Korean film, Ode to My Father. E25, Gukjesijang 2-gil, Sinchang-dong, Jung-gu P051/245–1889 mJagalchi Station (exit 7).

HJagalchi Fish Market

MARKET |”Come! See! Buy!” This is the official motto of Korea’s largest fish market, and no trip to Busan would be complete without a stroll down its thrumming concourse, where super fresh seafood of all types is splayed out in all of its scaly, tentacled glory. While the sleek, new raw fish center is distinctive, with glass paneling and a roof designed to look like seagulls, the surrounding streets will give you a better idea of the workings of the market, which are as old-school Busan as it gets. E52, Jagalchihaean-ro, Nampo-dong, Jung-gu P051/713–8000 wwww.jagalchimarket.or.kr mJagalchi Station (exit 10).

Lotte Department Store

DEPARTMENT STORE | A newer addition to the busy shopping area of Nampo-dong, Lotte’s is the place to find major international chains, such as Zara and Japanese giant Uniqlo. Youngpoong Bookstore on the 5th floor has a selection of English-language books for adults and children, but the real highlights are the 360-degree views from the 11th-floor Sky Park and 12th-floor Observation Deck. E2, Jungang-daero, Nampo-dong, Jung-gu P051/678–2130 wwww.lotteshopping.com mNampo Station (exit 8).

Songjeong

Centered around Busan’s northernmost beach, Songjeong is usually a place where people seek out solace on the sand. However, with its own cluster of small hotels, cafes, restaurants and bars, it’s become a terrific alternative to the more crowded environs of Haeundae or Gwangalli. Add the natural splendor of Yonggungsa Temple and the seafood served in the nearby fishing village of Cheongsapo, and Songjeong suddenly becomes a destination in its own right.

s Sights

Cheongsapo Daritdol Skywalk

OBSERVATORY | One of three ocean observatories in Busan, this 72.5-meter (238-foot) long, 20-meter (66-foot) high platform is equipped with a transparent glass floor, giving visitors the illusion that they’re walking on the water. It’s an ideal place to catch the sunset, as the observatory provides a panoramic view of Cheongsapo Village, its lighthouse, and seashore. EJung-dong San, 3-9, Haeundae-gu P051/749–5700 wkoreatodo.com/cheongsapo-daritdol-skywalk mJung-dong (exit 7).

Cheongsapo Village

TOWN | This little fishing village between Songjeong and Haeundae Beach is most famous for its restaurants specializing in grilled clams and eel. Once a hardscrabble collection of huts and seaside tents, the hamlet has seen a makeover in recent years and now hosts a few upscale cafes and Western-style eateries. It’s just a thirty-minute walk down the coast from Songjeong Beach, making it an ideal side excursion. ECheongsapo-ro, Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu mJung-dong (exit 7).

HHaedong Yonggungsa Temple

TEMPLE | Built in 1376, this exquisite complex sits on the rocks right above the roiling ocean waves. Seaside temples are rare in Korea, and Yonggungsa is arguably the country’s finest. Perfectly combining raw nature and architectural splendor, this temple is a must-see, delivering a dose of both exhilaration and serenity to anyone lucky enough to visit. Try to visit on a weekday if possible, as weekends get crowded. E86, Yonggung-gil, Haeundae-gu j10-min taxi ride from Songjeong Beach or 5-min ride from OSIRIA Station on the Donghae Line P051/722–7744 wwww.yongkungsa.or.kr/eng/01/01.php mOSIRIA (Donghae Line, exit 1).

; Beaches

Songjeong Beach

BEACH | While this 1.2-km (.75-mile) expanse of sand sees its share of visitors in the summer, Songjeong tends to be the quieter of Busan’s “big three” beaches. The surrounding waters are shallow, making it popular with families with young kids, though a decent break off its northern shore also attracts scores of surfers who bob on the surface in hope of catching that next wave. The neighborhood surrounding the beach is home to a lot of nice hoe (raw fish) restaurants, good cafes, and no shortage of places to stay. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports Best for: sunrise; surfing; swimming; walking; windsurfing. E62, Songjeonghaebyeon-ro, Songjeong-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/749–7611 whaeundae.go.kr mSongjeong (exit 1).

r Restaurants

Turmbräu

$$ | GERMAN | This delightful little brewery serves German-style beers and Euro-food favorites such as wurst, goulash, and schnitzel, bringing a nice taste of Deutchsland to the beach of Busan. Known for: schnitzel; sausage; craft beer. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E1244, Haeun-daero, Songjeong-dong, Haeundae-gu P051/71324–6297 mSongjeong (Donghae Line, exit 1).

Elsewhere in Busan

Busan is a city that covers a lot of real estate, which means there are some terrific attractions that aren’t found in the main neighborhoods. This is especially true for the sites on the edge of town, such as the raw cliffside nature of Taejongdae, or the mountainside tranquility of Beomeosa, one of the most important temples in all of Korea.

s Sights

Beomeosa

TEMPLE | First constructed in 678 AD, Beomeosa Temple sits on the flank of Geumjeongsan mountain just on the outskirts of Busan, though it feels a world away from the bustling city below. This is one of Korea’s most renowned Buddhist temple complexes and is a beautiful example of mid-Joseon Dynasty temple architecture. Beomeosa is a sizable temple so give yourself plenty of time to explore—the main hall houses the Seokgamoni Buddha and two bodhisattvas; there are seven royal palace wings, three gates, and a bell pavilion with a three-story pagoda and a lantern dating from the Silla Dynasty. A free guided tour is available in English from the small office near the bus stop. Beomeosa also has a temple stay program if you care to spend the night. From Beomeosa station (exit 5) it’s a five-minute walk to the bus station where bus 90 will take the rest of the way. E250, Beomeosa-ro, Cheongyeong-dong, Busan jBeomeosa Station (exit 5), then a 5-min walk from the station to bus #90. P051/508–3122 wwww.beomeosa.co.kr AFree.

Geumgang Park Cable Car

CITY PARK | The massif of Geumjeongsan dominates much of the Busan skyline, and a visit to its ancient, fortress-topped ridge should be part of most any itinerary. The best way to access the mountain is from Geumgang Park, where you can ride the cable car and soak up spectacular views of the city during the 15-minute trip to the top. Enjoy your time up on the ridge by hiking its trails, and once you’ve worked up your appetite, be sure to stop off at the Sanseong Village for a hearty lunch of heok yeomso bulgogi (marinated black goat meat) or baeksuk (steamed ginseng chicken), along with a filling array of side dishes. Most of the restaurants in the village also provide a shuttle van that will ferry you to back down to the city and drop you off at Oncheonjang Station, completing the loop. E155, Ujangchun-ro, Oncheon-dong, Dongnae-gu wgeumgangpark.bisco.or.kr AOne way ₩5,000; return ₩8,000 xNot wheelchair accessible mOncheonjang Station (exit 1).

Heoshimcheong Spa

HOT SPRING | Said to be the the largest natural hot spring spa in all of Asia, this mammoth, pavilion-like complex is the granddaddy of soaking in Busan. There are more than 40 different kinds of baths available, including large open areas, cozy grottos, green tea and waterfall baths, as well outdoor pools. These range in temperature from geyser hot to glacially cold, so if one pool doesn’t suit your taste, you’re sure to find a perfect fit the next one over. The Heoshimcheong also includes a unisex jjimjilbang (Korean sauna) with heated rooms and relaxation areas, along with a nightclub, hotel, banquet rooms, as well a massive German-style hof where they brew beer their own beer and serve it up with sausages and pretzels. There’s also a house band that rocks the roof off the place seven nights a week. E23, Geumganggongwon-ro, 20 beon-gil, Oncheon-jang, Dongnae-gu P051/550–2200 A₩12,000 mOncheongjang Station (exit 1).

Taejongdae Park

CITY PARK | Escape the bustle of Busan and wander through 200 pine trees and camellias that line the coast at this lovely park. Most visitors come for the spectacular views of the jagged cliffs and the distant Oryuk-do Islets just beyond the 19th-century lighthouse. To get a feel for the park without breaking a sweat, ride the tram that circles the park or grab any one of the boats for hire that ply the nearby coast. There are also several hiking trails through the pine forests and along the rugged coastline. E24, Jeonman-ro, Donsam-dong, Yeongdo-gu P051/405–2004 AFree mNampo-dong and 40 minutes on bus 8, 88-A, or 88-B.

n Nightlife

Yong Ggum

BARS | Before its current incarnation as a hip restaurant and bar, the cave that houses Yong Ggum was in fact a bomb shelter. This is the perfect place to try a variety of Korean liquors, including dongdongju (rice wine). E19, Beomgok-ro, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu P051/646–5924 mBeomil Station (exit 1).

a Activities

Lotte Giants Baseball

SPECTATOR SPORTS | Baseball is big in Korea and Busan’s local team, the Lotte Giants, are arguably the most beloved in the whole league. The games at Sajik Stadium are part sporting event and a whole lot of party, with songs, chants, cheerleading, plus fried chicken and plenty of beer. You don’t even need to be a baseball fan to have a good time at a Lotte Giants game. Whether they win or lose, you’re sure to get swept up in the friendly, festive atmosphere. ESajik Baseball Stadium, 45 Sajik-ro, Sajik-dong, Dongnae-gu P50511/590–9000 wwww.lotte.co.kr/global/en/business/compDetail.do?compCd=L416 AFrom ₩8,000 CClosed Nov.–mid-Mar. mSports Complex Station (exit 9).

WELCOME TO SIDE TRIPS FROM BUSAN

TOP REASONS TO GO

Historic Gyeongju: This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to royal tombs, ornate pavilions, mountainside temples, and more.

Bijindo Island: Just a 30-minute ferry ride from the town town of Tongyeong, this sleepy getaway is famed for its white sand beach and aquamarine waters.

Downtown Daegu: While Seoul and Busan tend to hog the spotlight, Daegu is truly a city that never sleeps, with a bustling core that that punches well above its weight when it comes to festive nightlife.

Oedo: This isle off Geoje is home to one of Korea’s most impressive botanical gardens.

Tongdosa Temple: Nestled at the base of the Yeongnam Alps, this is more than a temple; it’s one of the country’s most expansive and important centers of Buddhist tradition and thought.

While the city of Busan acts as the main gravitational pull, South Korea’s southeastern region is also home to many other places that are well worth checking out. Each of these destinations are within two hours of Busan by train, bus, or car.

Daegu. South Korea’s fourth-largest metropolis is a hopping, modern hub that’s both a center of serious commerce and raucous fun.

Gyeongju. This is the country’s cultural capital, home to scores of national treasures.

Tongyeong. Known for its seafood, this enchanting town on the country’s south coast is also the gateway to the islands that make up the Hallyeohaesang National Park.

Geoje Island. With pebble beaches, stony ridges, sleepy villages, and sweeping marine vistas, Geoje is a favorite day trip for Busanites.

Yeongnam Alps. An offshoot of the Taebaek Range, this cluster of mountains is a hiker’s paradise where you’ll also find top-notch tourist attractions.

While the city of Busan is the obvious star of the show, Korea’s southeastern region is full of other gems worthy of exploration. This corner of the country has it all: rocky ridges, hidden coves, sleepy islands, and deep valleys, as well as historic towns home to cultural treasures that stand as a testament to the peninsula’s 5,000-year history. Add the urban center of Daegu—a thriving, modern metropolis with enough verve to give any of its rivals a run for their money—and you’ve got a panoply of attractions that will surely exert their pull upon you.

Spread out across two provinces, this region is home to the country’s greatest concentration of people outside of Seoul. The cities of Busan, Ulsan, and Daegu account for some 8 million people, and when you add in smaller population centers, the figure shoots up well north of that. As a result, when it comes to the neon splendor of modern, urban Korea, the southeastern region offers up almost as much round-the-clock excitement as you’ll find in the capital.

That said, it’s also a place where you can seek out solitude if you put in the effort. The clusters of islands jutting up from the waters of the south coast can feel surprisingly remote. Just one short ferry ride and you’ll find yourself on a lonesome, rocky shore, or in a harborside fishing village with just the salty breeze and drying kelp. The area is also home to some of the country’s most rugged mountains. Though you’d never confuse them with the snowcapped crags of their European namesake, the Yeongnam Alps contain some of South Korea’s highest peaks that act a kind of paradise for anyone keen to lace up a pair of boots and hit the trail. The valleys surrounding these ridges are also wonderful refuges unto themselves, with icy, fast-flowing streams, quaint villages, and temples galore.

When it comes to such relics of the past, the area surrounding Busan is in a league of its own. From the sprawling center of Buddhist culture of Tongdosa to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Gyeongju, the region just oozes history, giving visitors a deep and real sense of appreciation for just how long Korean culture has steeped in time, resulting in the rich, multi-layered tapestry it is today.

Planning

Getting Here and Around

BUS

South Korea has an extensive and efficient intercity bus network. Daegu, Gyeongju, and Tongdosa are all regularly served by buses from Busan’s Central Terminal in Nopo-dong. Tongyeong and Geoje Island can be best reached via buses from the Seobu Terminal in Sasang.

CAR

Busan has many rental car agencies, though they all require an International Driver’s Permit along with your locally issued license.

TAXI

Taxis can be found in both big cities and small towns and are relatively cheap. Any rides within the city will be charged to the meter, though rides between towns are always for a set rate. Just make sure to agree on the amount ahead of time.

TRAIN

South Korea has a world class train system, though more out-of-the-way destinations aren’t always easily reached by rail. Both Daegu and Gyeongju are quick trips from Busan Station via the KTX, ITX, or slower Mugunhwa train. However, the Yeongnam Alps area, Geoje Island, and Tongyeong are best reached by bus or private car.

AIR

Many travelers start their journey by flying into Gimhae International Airport (PUS), which is about 11 km (6.8 mile) away from Busan. After a few days in the city, many drive or take the train to explore nearby towns for the day.

Hotels

Your best bet for style and luxury hotels are in Daegu and Gyeongju, where you will find some of the big brands along with smaller business and boutique choices. There are loads of motels throughout the region, as well, which offer a high level of comfort for value. Not all of these take reservations, however, and the staff usually speaks little to no English. Another great choice for local lodgings are Korean-style “pensions.” These holiday getaways are usually found near the beach or mountains, and feature cozy, comfortable rooms (usually with a balcony), as well as access to an outdoor barbecue and picnic area. They can be quite romantic, though sometimes they host large, noisy groups who may grill meat and knock back soju late into the night, turning the place into a party zone. The other option is what’s called a minbak. These bare-bones homestays usually don’t come with a bed, but rather a sleeping pad on a floor that’s heated in the winter. Minbak are often equipped with a kitchen and, like pensions, are usually found at the beach or up in the mountains. They’re a good option for groups of people, but you’ll definitely be sacrificing comfort for value.

Restaurants

When it comes to eating out, South Korea offers a seemingly infinite number of choices. This is a country with restaurants everywhere, especially in the cities. It’s rare to look down a single street and not see at least one eatery.

The region around Busan is no exception. Daegu, a big city, is packed with restaurants of all kinds, though being an inland settlement, the focus is more on beef, pork, and chicken dishes. Gyeongju’s history means you’ll fine more traditional choices there, including han jeongshik, a Korean court food that features up to 40 individual side dishes. And given their seaside location, the restaurants of Geoje Island and Tongyeong tend to serve fresh seafood.

The one thing to keep in mind, especially as you get out of the city, is that a lot of Korea restaurants aren’t set up to serve just one person. That means that dining solo can, at times, be challenging. Barbecue and seafood places usually require a minimum order or only serve dishes in portions meant for groups of diners.

Hotel prices in the reviews are the lowest cost of a standard double room in high season. Restaurant prices in the reviews are the average cost of a main course at dinner, or if dinner is not served, at lunch.

Daegu

88 km (54.6 miles) from Busan.

Daegu is South Korea’s fourth largest city, as well as the cultural and economic hub of North Gyeongsang Province. It’s often called the “Apple City” after its famed plump apples, but it’s also known for its textiles and electronics.

The city sits in a basin surrounded by mountains, which means it’s subjected to some of the most extreme temperatures in the country. The winters are icy and the summers scorching, conditions which have surely helped cement the people’s reputation for toughness. The sprawling valley where the city lies hasn’t always been an easy place to live, yet now it’s home to one of the country’s most thriving centers of commerce.

While Daegu is often overlooked on itineraries, it’s worth a visit, especially for anyone keen to check out a city largely untouched by foreign tourism. Here you’ll find Korea in its purest form, with buzzing markets, tasty local food, and a crackling downtown core packed with bars and eateries that keep pumping well into the wee hours of the morning.

Daegu may not win any awards for trendiness, but this is a city that knows how to have a good time. It’s a percolating, unpretentious town that works hard during the day and lets off steam when the sun goes down, sometimes until the next sun comes up. The nearby mountains also provide great opportunities for more high-altitude exploration, with oodles of hiking trails, temples, and deep forests where it’s possible to lose yourself among the soothing pines.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

The best way to get to Daegu from Busan is via the high-speed KTX train from Busan Station to Dongdaegu Transportation Hub, which takes just around 40 minutes. You can also jump on board the slower ITX or Mugunhwa trains if you have a bit more time and want to save a few won.

Buses leave for Daegu from Busan’s Central Bus Terminal in Nopo-dong every 15 minutes. The ride takes just a little over an hour and arrives at Dongdaegu Transportation Hub.

Daegu does have an airport, Daegu International Airport (TAE), but unless you’re starting your South Korea journey in Daegu, it’s unlikely you’ll need to fly there. Trains and buses are usually the preferred mode of transportation.

Once you’re in Daegu, it’s easy to take public transportation to get around town. The efficient Daegu subway has three lines that can take you to most of the major sights as well as to the train station, at the stop Dongdaegu.

Dongdaegu Transportation Hub. E550 Dongdaegu-ro, Dong-gu P1666–3700. Daegu International Airport. E221 Gonghang-ro, Dong-gu P1661-2626 wwww.airport.co.kr/daegueng/index.do mAyanggyo Station then Express 1 bus.

TOURS

Daegu City Tour

BUS TOURS | This hop-on, hop-off bus tour runs a circuit course of the whole city, stopping at all the main sights including Seomun Market, E-world, and the Daegu National Museum. There are also shorter, themed tours, such as the Mt. Biseulsan and Nakdong River Course. EStarting point in front of Dongdaegu Train Station wdaegucitytour.kr/eng A₩10,000 CClosed Mon.

VISITOR INFORMATION

CONTACTS Dongdaegu Station Tourist Information Center. EDongdaegu Station, 550 Dongdaegu-ro P53–939–0080. Downtown Tourist Information Center. E382 Jungan-daero.

s Sights

Anjirang Gopchang Street

STREET | While perhaps not to everyone’s taste, gopchang (grilled pig or cow intestines) is a Daegu specialty, and this street is packed with more than 50 restaurants dedicated to the delicacy. On weekends the street is flooded with locals eating and, most importantly, imbibing, as gopchangis seen more as an anju (a side dish for drinking) than a main course. Even if intestines aren’t your thing, the festive atmosphere is worth the visit alone, and all the restaurants also serve up more conventional cuts of meat. E63 Daemyeong-ro, 36-gil, Daemyeong-dong mAnjirang Station (exit 3).

Apsan Cable Car

VIEWPOINT | This sky tram delivers visitors to the observatory perched atop Apsan mountain, offering panoramic views of downtown Daegu and beyond. The vistas are especially impressive at night, when the city below erupts into a twinkling tapestry of lights. E454 Apsansunhwan-ro, Bongdeok-dong P053/656–2994 wapsan-cablecar.co.kr A₩10,500 mHyeonchungro Station (exit 2).

Bullo-dong Ancient Tombs Park

TOMB | Situated on the edge of town, this spacious, tranquil park is home to more than 200 burial mounds. You’ll feel transported far from the hubub of the city as you walk amongst these ancient graves, which are particularly striking come sunrise or sunset. In spring the park comes alive with wildflowers that bloom in profusion. E335 Bullo-dong jTake a taxi from Ayangkyo Station (exit 3) mAyangkyo Station (exit 3).

Daegu Arboretum

GARDEN | This former landfill is home to more than 400 varieties of trees, along with flowers, giant cacti, and medicinal herbs spread over 21 gardens. In early November the arboretum hosts the Chrysanthemum Festival, which draws visitors from all around the country. E342 Hwaam-ro, Jincheon-dong P053/610–4100 mDaegugok Station (exit 3).

Daegu National Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | Focusing on regional history, this museum hosts a nice collection of pottery, textiles, clothing, armor, Buddhist statues, old books and scrolls, and a few very impressive royal crowns. A number of exhibits are currently closed to the public, but if you’re interested in artifacts from the local culture, its worth an hour or so of your time. It’s just a 5-minute taxi ride from Hwanggeum Station. E321 Cheongho-ro, Hwanggeum-dong P053/768–6051 wdaegu.museum.go.kr AFree CClosed Mon. mHwanggeum Station (exit 1).

Daegu Stadium

SPORTS VENUE | If you’re a die-hard soccer fan, it may be worth the hour-long bus ride to this stadium outside of the city—the venue was originally built for the 2002 FIFA World Cup. It now houses the Daegu Sports Museum, which displays all kinds of memorabilia from the stadium’s top sporting events. It is also where the K League sometimes plays professional soccer, though baseball is the real game to check out here. The stadium also hosts concerts and events such as the Daegu Marathon. E180 Universiad-ro, Suseong-gu wtour.daegu.go.kr CClosed Mon.

E-World and 83 Tower

AMUSEMENT PARK/CARNIVAL | FAMILY | Woobang 83 Tower looms over E-World, an amusement park that features a slew of rides such as the Top Spin, the Viking, and the Megaswing 360, as well as two rollercoasters. The observation deck at the top of the 83 Tower offers great city views. E200 Duryugongwon-ro, Duryu-dong P053/620–0001 weworld.kr/tower A₩23,000 xAdmission includes park entrance, free performances, and zoo entrance. The 83 Tower observation deck fee is an additional ₩10,000. mNaedang Station (exit 2).

r Restaurants

Bongsan Jjimgalbi

$$$ | KOREAN | Just a short walk from City Hall, Dongin-dong Jjimgalbi Alley is packed with restaurants perfecting the art of braised beef short ribs, a Daegu specialty. Bongsan Jjimgalbi is considered to the be one of the best of the bunch, delivering a knockout punch with bowls full of spicy goodness. Known for: nice side dishes; English-speaking owner; chili and garlic braised short ribs. DAverage main: ₩20,000 E332-3 Dongin 1-ga, Dongin-dong P053–425–4203 mChilseong Market (exit 1).

Daedong Myeonok

$ | KOREAN | This local institution is known for its Pyeonyang-style mool naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles), topped off with slices of thin pork. Once occupying a tiny house in the alley, the restaurant has now moved into a much larger brand-new hanok on the main road, and is the perfect antidote to the blazing heat of Daegu summertime. Known for: hanok-style building; cold buckwheat noodles; traditional recipe. DAverage main: ₩9,000 E5-9 Gukchaebosang-ro 102-gil, Gyesan-dong P053/255–4450 mSeomun Market (Exit 1).

Taesan Mandu

$ | KOREAN | Serving many styles dumplings since 1972, this celebrated local joint sets the standard in town. Their house specialty is meat-filled gun mandu (fried dumplings), oil-crisped so thoroughly that the set of ten arrives at your table fused together. Known for: quick service; value; fried dumplings. DAverage main: ₩6,000 E2109-32 Dalgubeol-daero, Deoksan-dong P053/424–0449 CClosed Tues. mBanweoldan Station (exit 12).

h Hotels

Daegu Marriott Hotel

$$$$ | HOTEL | Delivering all the excellence you’d expect from this global brand, the Daegu Marriott can also boast location: it’s just a two-minute walk from Dongdaegu Station and within easy striking distance of restaurants, shopping centers, and other downtown sight. Pros: terrific city views; very friendly staff; spacious, bright rooms. Cons: more expensive than other options; not a lot of variety at breakfast; slightly impersonal atmosphere. DRooms from: ₩320,000 E6 Dongbu-ro 26-gil P053/327–7000 wwww.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/taemc-daegu-marriott-hotel/overview/ a190 rooms XNo Meals mDongdaegu Station (exit 2).

Toyoko Inn Daegu Dongseongno

$$ | HOTEL | This Japanese chain is always a sure bet for value and convenience, and its Daegu branch doesn’t disappoint. Pros: minimart downstairs; free Wi-Fi; great location. Cons: children not allowed; early check-out (10 am); slightly small rooms. DRooms from: ₩120,000 E15 Dongseong-ro 1-gil, Deoksan-dong P053/428–1045 wwww.toyoko-inn.com/eng/index.html a200 rooms XFree Breakfast mBanwoldang Station (exit 13).

n Nightlife

Barbarella

BARS | Though it doesn’t look like much from the outside, entering this “avant-garde rock bar” is like stepping into another, psychedelic world. Bathed in blue light, the cozy, slightly odd pub manages to strike that perfect balance between cool and inviting, with a nice cocktail list to boot. The owner is an ex-college professor who walked away from the ivory tower in order to open a bar and play his favorite tunes, so like any good little boozer, it’s a true labor of love. E24 Jungang-daero 77-gil, Gyesan-dong P053/292–5924 mJunggandaero Station (exit 1).

Communes

PUBS | This basement pub has been Daegu’s main expat watering hole since 1995. Owner Hyunshik can usually be found behind the bar holding court, pouring beer, or spinning LPs from his huge collection of vinyl. On Wednesday Communes is home to a popular open mic, and the place is well-known for its laid-back, friendly vibes. EDongseong-ro 5-gil, Samdeok-dong P070/4191–1992 CClosed Tues. mJungangdaero Station (exit 2).

EtOH’s Drafthouse

PUBS | Specializing in Korean-produced craft beers on tap, this popular downtown pub is a stellar place to grab a brew as well as some of the best pizzas in town. They also have great selection of bottled imports and mix a mean cocktail as well. A nice outdoor balcony seating area opens when the weather heats up, which in Daegu means about half of the year. E12-3 Dongseong-ro 3-gil, Samdeok-dong P053/211–9385 wwww.facebook.com/Etohskorea/ mJunggangro Station (exit 2).

b Shopping

Seomun Market

MARKET | Korea’s traditional markets offer some of the best experiences in the country, and Seomun doesn’t disappoint. With more than 4,000 stalls and shops, this gargantuan complex is a perfect place to pick up a souvenir, snap some photos, or just soak up the sights, smells, and sounds. It’s also a great opportunity to eat napjak mandu, Daegu’s signature flat, noodle-filled fried dumplings. E45 Keunjang-ro 26-gil P1330 Korea Travel Helpline mSeomun Market Station (exit 3).

Shinsegae Daegu

DEPARTMENT STORE | Connected to Dongdaegu Transportation hub, Shinsegae is more than just a department store. Its nine floors pack in everything from high-end designer clothes and K-beauty cosmetics to a food market and even a cinema and theme park. Take an hour (or a day!) to peruse its many treasures and you’ll find it’s an attraction in itself. E149 Dongbu-ro, Dong-gu P1588–1234 wen.shinsegae.cn/index.do.

Gyeongju

76.4 km (47.5 miles) from Busan.

Situated on a broad plain near South Korea’s southeastern coast in North Gyeongsang province, this former capital of the Kingdom of Silla (57 BC–AD 935) is also referred to as “the museum without walls” due its treasure trove of historical artifacts and cultural sights. As it result, it has grown into one of South Korea’s premier tourist destinations, with all of the resources and infrastructure that comes with that.

Just half an hour by train from the frenetic hustle of Busan, Gyeongju makes the perfect day trip. The city’s scenic, historic core has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and can largely be explored on foot, though there are also enough nice hotels, restaurants, and other attractions to keep you there overnight.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

The quickest and easiest way to get to Gyeongju is via the high speed KTX train from Busan Station, which takes less than 30 minutes and costs around ₩25,000. It arrives to the new Singyeongju Station, which is located just outside the city. From here, you can take a 30-minute bus ride into town. If coming from Seoul, the trip to Gyeongju takes just under two hours. There are also regular buses from Busan’s Central Bus Terminal in Nopo-dong, as well as the smaller Haeundae Terminal.

Once in Gyeongju, it’s fairly easy to get around via public transportation. The city doesn’t have a metro system, but the local buses are reliable, and there are also taxis, tour buses, and bicycle rentals if you’re staying in the center. Those who are venturing farther out or stringing together a few towns on a regional trip may wish to rent a car.

CONTACTS Singyeongju Station. E80 Singyeongjuyeonk-ro, Gyeongju P1330 Korean Travel Helpline wwww.korail.com.

TOURS

Gyeongju City Tour

BUS TOURS | The “Golden Line” Gyeongju City Tour is a great way to check out the town from the back of a bus. Tours are available in English and leave from Cheomseongdae, taking about 50 minutes. Sights include Bulguksa Temple and the East Palace Garden. E839-1 Inwang-dong, Gyeongju-si P054–743–6001 wwww.gyeongju.go.kr/tour/eng/index.do A₩1,300.

VISITOR INFORMATION

CONTACTS Gyeongju Tourist Information Center. E80, Singyeongjuyeok-ro, Gyeongju P1330 Korea Travel Helpline.

s Sights

Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto

TEMPLE | Situated on the slopes of Toham mountain, Bulguksa is one of South Korea’s greatest temples, classified not only as a UNESCO World Heritage Site but also the nation’s Historic and Scenic Site No. 1. The complex is a precious piece of national heritage with its pagodas, traditional wooden buildings, and stone terraces, and as a head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, it’s also a functioning place of worship and meditation, as well as one of the hosts of the country’s temple stay program. Located in the larger Bulguksa complex, the Seokguram Grotto is also part of the UNESCO World Heritage list. This hermitage overlooking the East Sea features some of the finest examples of Buddhist sculptures in the world. The detail of artistry—plus the grotto’s sweeping ocean views—will imbue you with tranquility while also taking your breath away. E385 Bulguk-ro, Hwangyong-dong P1330 Korea Travel Hotline wbulguksa.or.kr, templestay.com A₩6,000.

Cheomseongdae

OBSERVATORY | Though perhaps a bit underwhelming at first, this 9-m-high (30 feet) stone tower takes on more weight when you consider its historical context. Constructed in the 7th century, it’s Asia’s oldest surviving astronomical observatory, making it one of Korea’s great scientific contributions to the world. It’s worth a visit just to see the obvious pride the town takes in this marvel. Notice the numerical symbolism: the tower’s 362 granite blocks are said to represent each day of the lunar year. E839-1 Inwang-dong, Gyeongju P1330 Korea Travel Helpline.

Daereungwon Tomb Complex

TOMB | This expansive, tranquil park is home to scores of royal burial mounds, including the famed Cheonmachong Tomb. Excavated in 1973, this resting place of an unknown Silla king features a wooden coffin in the center. More than 11,500 artifacts were discovered in the tomb, making this one of Gyeongju’s greatest treasures. Cheonmachong’s name, which means roughly “sky horse tomb” refers to a painting of a white horse found during the site’s excavation. E9 Gyerim-ro, Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju P54/750–8650 wgyeongju.go.kr/tour/eng/index.do A₩3,000.

Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond

HISTORIC SIGHT | Built by order of King Munmu of Silla in 674 AD, Donggung is more of a large pavilion than a palace, overlooking the serene waters of Wolji Pond. It’s a lovely place to take a relaxing stroll, and really comes alive at night when the site is lit up in dramatic fashion. E102 Wonhwa-ro, Inwang-dong, Gyeongju P1330 Korea Travel Hotline wgyeogju.go.kr A₩3,000.

HGyeongju National Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | One of the most prominent museums in the country, Gyeongju National Museum is dedicated to the art, history, and treasures of the Silla Kingdom (57 BC–AD 935), with weapons, armor, clothing, pottery, statues, royal crowns, and more on display. An hour or so browsing its exhibits will give you a deeper appreciation of the civilization that once called Gyeongju its capital. If you really want to understand the Silla period, this should be your first stop in town. E186 Iljeong-ro, Inwang-dong, Gyeongju P054/740–7500 wgyeongju.museum.go.kr/eng/ AFree CClosed New Year’s Day (1/1), Seollal, and Chuseok.

Woljeonggyo Bridge

BRIDGE | This ornate covered bridge dates back to the Silla period but was destroyed long ago during the Joseon dynasty and only recently rebuilt. Like other Gyeongju sights, it’s lit up beautifully at night casting reflections on the river, making it a great place to stroll. E48 Gyo-dong, Gyeongju P1330 Korea Travel Hotline wgyeongju.go.kr/tour AFree.

Yangdong Folk Village

TOWN | Dating back to the Joseon Dynasty period (16th century), this village is home to more than 160 traditional homes. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time as you wander among its placid lanes. Nestled between the Hyeongsang River and the rise of Seolchang mountain, Yangdong radiates history in the midst of an idyllic natural setting. Despite its movie-set quaintness, this is a real, lived-in village, where the people are known for their generosity and kindness. TIP → Yangdong is located 50 minutes outside of Gyeongju by bus, accessible from Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal on buses 200 to 208, 212, and 217. E93 Yangdongmaeul-gil P1330 Korea Travel Hotline wcha.go.kr A₩4,000 mGyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal.

r Restaurants

Bokcheong Sutbul Galbi

$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | Specializing in quality cuts of marbleized beef grilled over red hot coals, this friendly, family-owned restaurant has an attentive staff that goes out of their way to make sure your slices are barbecued to perfection. If you’re feeling adventurous they also serve yook hoe, a raw beef dish that is Korea’s version of steak tartare. Known for: friendly service; quality beef at a good price; yook hoe. DAverage main: ₩12,000 E17-9 Yangjeong-ro, 240 beon-gil, Dongcheon-dong, Gyeongju P054/773–4858.

HHongsi Hanjeongshik

$$$ | KOREAN | The local favorite serves full-course traditional Korean fare, with entrees like bulgogi (marinated beef), jeon (savory pancake), dwaenjang jjigae (bean paste stew), and fried fish, all accompanied by myriad side dishes. Not only is the food terrific, but the service is top notch, and the old hanok house the restaurant calls home adds to the charm. Known for: healthy fare; traditional setting; locally made rice wine and tea. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E418-4 Seonggeon-dong, Gyeongju P054/742–8668.

h Hotels

Hilton Gyeongju

$$$ | HOTEL | Located on the shore of Lake Bomun, the Hilton is Gyeongju’s premier hotel and the perfect place to base a visit, with elegant rooms bathed in white, as well as an indoor and outdoor pool (complete with private cabanas). Pros: lakeside view; Japanese garden; great dining and drink options. Cons: a bit far from central Gyeongju; impersonal feel at times; pool access costs extra. DRooms from: ₩218,000 E484-7 Bomun-ro, Bodeok-dong, Gyeongju P054/745–7788 whilton.com/en/hotels/kyohitw-hilton-gyeongju a330 rooms XNo Meals.

Soi Hanok Stay

$$$$ | HOUSE | One of a number of Gyeongju properties that allows guests the chance to stay in traditional hanok-style accommodations, this charming spot will have you feeling like you’ve been transported to the Silla era without having to surrender an ounce of modern comfort. Pros: magical atmosphere; great breakfast; central location. Cons: can be hard to book on weekends; lack of big hotel amenities; slightly hard to find. DRooms from: ₩350,000 E22-6 Cheomseong-ro 81 beon-gil, Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju P010/3178–4888 a4 suites XFree Breakfast.

Tongyeong

69 km (43 miles) from Busan.

Just under two hours from Busan via bus or car, Tongyeong is surely one of the region’s great gems. This laid-back seaside town is the gateway to the gorgeous, rugged islands of the Hallyeohaesang National Park, most of which are accessible by Tongyeong’s Passenger Ferry Terminal. The lovely Bijindo Island, with its striking white-sand beach and stunning blue water, is a memorable place to hike, camp, and relax with your toes in the sand.

Given Tongyeong’s location, it’s no surprise that the small city is also a great place to eat seafood, with buzzing markets full of the freshest fish and other assorted sealife, along with loads of down-home restaurants serving dishes that draw from the ocean’s rich bounty.

Add the local history of Admiral Yi Sun-shin’s famous Geobukseon (“turtle ships” used by the Royal Korean Navy), and this popular weekend destination for the Busan crowd becomes a perfect spot to escape the pressure cooker of the big city. In fact, Tongyeong’s charms are so unassuming and deep that you may find yourself staying longer than anticipated.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

There are no direct trains to Tongyeong, so taking a bus is your best option. Buses from Busan’s Seobu Terminal in Sasang regularly depart for Tongyeong and arrive at Tongyeong Bus Terminal in about 1.5 hours. (If you’re traveling from Seoul, the journey takes about 4.5 hours by bus from the Express Bus Terminal.) Tongyeong’s bus station lies on the edge of town. A taxi from there to the city center and waterfront takes around 15 minutes and costs around ₩8,000.

If you’re flying in or starting your journey here, the nearest airport is Sacheon Airport in Jinju and from there you can drive or catch a bus, which takes under two hours.

Once you are in the city, it’s best to walk (most of the main sights are within a manageable distance) and take taxis, though there is a local bus system that works well if you can master it.

If you’re headed to any of the area’s many islands, you will need to take a ferry from the Tongyeong Passenger Ferry Terminal. One of the most popular stops is Bijindo Island; a 40-minute ferry will bring you to the island for ₩14,000 round-trip. Some tour boats do leave from the Tongyeong Cruise Ship Terminal in Donam-dong, which is a separate location.

CONTACTS Tongyeong Bus Terminal. E24 Jungnim 4-ro, Gwangdo-myeon, Tongyeong P10–8289–9945. Tongyeong Passenger Ferry Terminal. E316 Seoho-dong, Tongyeong P55–642–0116 wwww.tongyeong.go.kr.

VISITOR INFORMATION

There is a tourist information kiosk next to the Tongyeong Bus Terminal with maps and other literature. They do not speak English, however.

CONTACTS Tongyeong Tourist Information Center. ETongyeong Bus Terminal, 24 Jukrim 4-ro, Gwangdo-myeon, Tongyeong P055–650–0581 wwww.tongyeong.go.kr.

s Sights

HBijindo Island

ISLAND | The waters off of Tongyeong are home to scores of beautiful, sleepy islands, most of which are part of the Hallyeohaesang National Park. The crown jewel, arguably, is Bijindo, which is actually two tree-covered mountains connected by a white sand spit, which in turn makes up one of the most idyllic beaches in the country. Most Koreans come to Bijindo to hike, while others arrive for the fishing and beach action. The island has plenty of basic accommodations available in the form of pensions and mibaks, the bare-bones, sleep-on-the-floor rooms found throughout the beaches and mountains of Korea. There are also some very simple restaurants, though many people choose to bring their own food. Boats leave three times a day (6:50 am, 10:50 am, 2:30 pm) from Tongyeong’s Passenger Terminal. The trip takes about 40 minutes. EBijin-ri, Hansan-myeon, Tongyeong jTake the ferry from the Tongyeong Passenger Ferry Terminal. A₩16,800 ferry fee, round trip.

Dongpirang Mural Village

PUBLIC ART | With terrific views of the town and sea beyond, this hillside village features narrow alleys, vivid murals, and scores of quaint cafes perfect for taking a load off and soaking up the placid surroundings. The walk up to the village is steep, so make sure to wear your comfy shoes. E6-18 Dongpirang 1-gil, Dongho-dong, Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do P055/650–7418.

Geobukseon Turtle Ships

HISTORY MUSEUM | Originally located in Tongyeong’s main Gangguan Harbor, these four replicas of Admiral Yi Sun-shin’s famous Geobukseon “Turtle Ships” have been moved to a marina on the edge of town. They’re still worth the short taxi ride for anyone interested in Korean history, as these boats were instrumental in destroying the Japanese fleet during the Imjin War of the late 1500s, events made famous by the Korean film Roaring Currents. One of the boats has been transformed into a small, floating museum, and though most of the information placards are in Korean, it’s interesting to go onto the ship to get a sense of what it was like for sailors hundreds of years ago. E642-4 Donam-dong, Tongyeong-si P055/650–3956 A₩3,000.

Hallyeohaesang National Park

NATIONAL PARK | Covering an area of more than 545.63 square km (210.67 square miles), this marine park has a rugged coastline, sandy beaches, sleepy islands, and lots of open water. The sanctuary is also home to myriad sea life including finless porpoises, otters, and the endangered Northern Pacific right whale. The real stars of the show are its scores of islands, including Saryangdo, Somaemuldo, and Bijindo, all of which are easy day trips via ferry from Tongyeong. EJangseungpo-dong, Geoje-si P1330 Korea Travel Helpline whallyeo.knps.or.kr.

Jungang Market

MARKET | While not just limited to seafood, it’s certainly the star of the show at this lively market, where people come from all around to stock up on fresh fish, clams, scallops, octopus, crabs, shrimp, squid, and other more acquired-tastes such as sea cucumber, marine spoon worm, and sea pineapple. Like any traditional Korean market, it’s also packed with great restaurants offering up dishes running the gamut from raw fish and oysters to grilled cuttlefish and anchovies. E4-16 Jungangsijang 1-gil, Buksin-dong, Tongyeong P055/649–5225.

Tongyeong Cable Car to Mireuksan

MOUNTAIN | Rising like a guardian over Tongyeong, Mireuksan mountain is accessed by the longest cable car in Korea (1,975 meters/1.22 miles). This Swiss-designed gondola not only provides jaw-dropping views of the surrounding mountains, islands, and ocean, but also affords passengers enough time to meditate on the raw beauty of this particular corner of the country. E205 Balgae-ro, Tongyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do P1330 Korea Travel Helpline wcablecar.ttdc.kr A₩14,000 (round trip).

Yi Sun Sin Park

HISTORIC SIGHT | Dedicated to the legendary admiral who helped save the nation from a Japanese invasion, this lovely seaside park delivers natural splendor along with a big dose of history. Yi Sun Sin is probably Korea’s greatest hero, and the 17.3 meter–high (56.74 feet) statue of the great man gazes out across the water to his base at Hansando Island, where, four centuries years ago, he put his tactical genius to work. E205, Mendehaean-gil, Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do P055/642–4737.

r Restaurants

Haenyeo Hamuldachi

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Named for the famed Korean women divers known as haenyeo, this raucous restauraunt delivers set-course meals of seafood including side dishes of small octopus, shrimp, scallops, sea snails, flatfish, and more, accompanied with buckets containing bottles of beer and soju on ice. People come here to drink as much as eat, so if you really want to soak up the local atmosphere, this is your spot. Known for: festive atmosphere; fresh seafood; beer and soju buckets. DAverage main: ₩40,000 E25-50 Hangnam 2-gil, Hangnam-dong, Tongyeong P010/3597–5963.

Simgane Seafood Jjamppong

$ | SEAFOOD | This extremely popular local joint specializes in the Korean-Chinese dish jjambbong (noodles in spicy red broth) piled high with heaps of fresh seafood. Diners are given the option of 1–3 on the heat scale, though there is a mild version (Hayan jjambbong) for the chili-adverse. Known for: mild option; “couples” jjambbong set; seafood jjambbong. DAverage main: ₩9,500 E163-35 Seoho-dong, Tongyeong P055/649–8215.

Songhak Hoe Jib

$$$ | SEAFOOD | Located in Tongyeong Jungang Market, this down-home seafood joint specializes in raw sashimi, along with maeuntang (spicy fish soup) and hoe deop bap (raw fish over rice). Eating in a bustling Korean market is always an experience worth pursuing, and being so close to the source you’re guaranteed that everything will be as fresh as can be. Known for: anchovy sashimi; fish soups; wide variety of seafood. DAverage main: ₩20,000 E39-2 Jungang-dong, Tongyeong P055–644–2460.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Meonge House Ggulbbang

$ | KOREAN | While ggulbbang (honey bread) can be found all over town, this is probably Tongyeong’s most famous (or at least most conspicuous) purveyor of the sweet treat. The building housing the bakery sits next to the main harbor and is done up in the shape of a giant orange sea pineapple, the marine creature that’s also a delicacy in these parts. Known for: honey bread; memorable orange exterior; harbor location. DAverage main: ₩9,000 E337 Tonyeonghaean-ro, Tongyeong P055/646–6615.

h Hotels

Hotel Pico

$$ | HOTEL | In an area dominated by impersonal, behemoth tourist hotels and aging “love motels,” this brand-new boutique hotel is a breath of fresh air. Pros: nice breakfast; impeccably clean and modern facility; great location near the harbor. Cons: lacks good ocean views; on-site parking limited; limited English spoken by staff. DRooms from: ₩120,0000 E19 Hangnam 4-gil, Tongyeong a24 rooms XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

Viento

BARS | Situated on a pleasant corner in the maze of side streets that makes up Tongyeong’s Hangnam neighborhood, Viento is a nice place for a quiet drink, with a great array of bottled European beers, along with wine, cocktails, and a couple of draft brews. The inside is home to just three or four tables, while outside there’s a tiny windowfront bar that’s perfect for sitting, sipping, and watching the night unfold. EHangnam 1gil, 18 beong-gil, Hangnam-dong, Tongyeong P010/7600–2193.

a Activities

Skyline Luge

LOCAL SPORTS | If the tranquil charms of Tongyeong have got you feeling sedate, you can get your blood pumping with a couple of rides on the Skyline Luge. Inspired by the Winter Olympic sport, these one-person wheeled carts shoot down a hillside course designed with twists, turns, hairpin curves, and tunnels. Once you get to the bottom you can jump on the chairlift to take you back up the mountain for another go. E178 Balgae-ro, Tongyeong, Gyeongsangnamdo P070/4731–8473 wskylineluge.com/en/tongyeong A₩21,000 (for two rides).

Geoje Island

Before 2010, Geoje Island was only accessible from Busan via ferry or a circuitous land route that went through the cities of Changwon, Masan, and Tongyeong. This all changed with the construction of the Geoga Bridge, an 8.2-km (5.1-mile) link of spans and tunnels that put Geoje within quick reach of South Korea’s second city, shortening the trip some 60 km (37 miles). Since then the island has become a favorite weekend getaway for Busanites.

As one of the country’s centers of shipbuilding, the northern part of Geoje (around Geoje City) is quite urbanized and industrial. Once you head to the southern half, however, you quickly feel the island’s draw. Geoje is home to clean, aquamarine waters, imposing rock formations, hidden beaches, lovely fishing villages, and islands within in a quick boat ride from the main landmass. Though the area has seen an explosion of development in recent years, it’s still possible to experience the fresh air and calming effect that comes with a trip to the seacoast, puncuated by great scenery and fresh local food.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

There is regular bus service between Busan’s Seobu Terminal and Geoje’s Gohyeon Bus Terminal via the Geoga Bridge. The trip takes about an hour and 20 minutes each way, depending on traffic.

s Sights

Historic Park of Geoje POW Camp

HISTORY MUSEUM | Geoje was home to the biggest POW camp of the Korean War, at one point housing more than 170,000 Chinese and North Korean prisoners. While the camp is long closed, the site has been transformed into a kind of museum, complete with exhibition halls containing detailed (and sometimes graphic) dioramas meant to give the visitor a feel for how life was for both the prisoners and the guards. There is also some military hardware on the premises, including old tanks. The camp is a fascinating visit for any history buff, a vivid reminder of the brutality unleashed upon Korea just some decades before. E61, Gyeryong-ro, Geoje-si P wpow.or.kr A₩7,000.

Windy Hill

VIEWPOINT | This viewpoint overlooks Dojangpo Fishing Village as well as the ocean beyond, including Oedo. It’s most famous as a filming location for more than one Korean drama (including Eve’s Garden), and comes complete with a faux-windmill on top. While it may be tailor-made for Instagram shots, Windy Hill does afford some terrific views and the area around it contains footpaths that are well-worth exploring on their own. EDojangpo Maeul, Geoje P1330 Korea Travel Helpline.

; Beaches

Gujora Beach

BEACH | This 1.1-km-long (.68 miles) sandy beach is famous for its crystalline waters. The nearby village is also a great spot to sit down for a meal of fresh hoe (raw fish). Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: sunrise; sunset; swimming; walking; windsurfing. E500-1 Gujora-ri, Irun-myeon, Geoje P055/639–3000.

Hakdong Mongdol Beach

BEACH | Made up entirely of smooth, small dark pebbles, this 1.2-km (.75 miles) stretch of beach is the perfect place to grab a coffee and listen to the waves wash over the clattering stones. While you’re there, make sure to take advantage of the beach’s therapeutic effects: remove your shoes and socks and stroll barefoot over the rocks while they massage the pressure points on the bottom of your feet. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: sunrise; swimming; walking. E18-1, Hakdong 6-gil, Geoje.

r Restaurants

Guijoara

$$$ | KOREAN | This great fried fish place sits in the row of restaurants just opposite the Oedo Cruise Terminal in Gujora Village. They also offer jaeyuk deopbab (spicy fried pork), donkas (breaded pork cutlet), and gyaeran mari (rolled egg with green onions) if you’re not in the mood for seafood. Just make sure to get there early, as they close up shop at 5 pm. Known for: great location; fried fish set menu; friendly service. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E44-1 Gujora-ro, Irun-myeon.

1 Bak 2 Il Mashitnun Jib

$$$ | KOREAN | Located in the little village around Hakdong Beach, this popular eatery serves up an array of seafood prepared in different ways. While they’re set up to serve groups, it’s also possible to order dishes for just one person, a luxury not always available at seaside joints in Korea. Known for: seafood bibimbap; fried fish set meal; anchovy and rice lettuce wrap. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E307-2 Hakdong-ri, Dongbu-myeon P055–637–1472.

h Hotels

Geoje Hakdong Sunrise Ocean View

$ | MOTEL | This small motel offers surprisingly good value with spacious rooms, a location just four minutes from the beach, and ocean views. Pros: free Wi-Fi; nice views; clean rooms. Cons: English not spoken; few amenities; not directly on the beach. DRooms from: ₩40,000 E935-1, Geoje-daero, Dongbu-myeon P050–35050–5149.

a Activities

HOedo Botania Cruise

CRUISE EXCURSIONS | Cultivated by Lee Chang-ho and his wife Choi Ho-suk over a period of 30 years, Oedo Island is one of Korea’s few Western-style botanical gardens, home to more than 3,000 species of plants. The site is only accessible by ferry from the main island. There are several to choose from, though your best bet is the boat from the terminal in the port of Gujora, which takes you out and around Haegeumgan, a majestic rock formation of stony spires, sheer cliffs, and natural caves. While the gardens on Oedo are impressive, the boat ride is nearly worth the price alone. Explanations are all done over a very big loudspeaker in dramatic and rapid fire Korean. Once you land on the island you are given two hours to wander, which is more than enough time to soak up its splendor. As Geoje’s biggest tourist attraction, Oedo sees crowds on the weekends, especially when the weather is good. If you’re seeking isolation, consider visiting during the week. E37 Gujora-ri, Irun-myeon P055/681–1188 A₩30,000 ( ₩20,000 boat fare/ ₩11,000 Oedo admission fee).

Yeongnam Alps

While not quiet as lofty or majestic as the European Alps, the Yeongnam Alps still possess myriad charms. This outlying cluster of Taebaek range contains several peaks over 1,000 meters (.6 miles)—tall by Korean standards—and the area is full of valleys, ridges, rivers, and waterfalls that makes it the region’s undisputed natural playground. Add cultural treasures such as the Tongdosa Temple complex, and you have several ideal side excursions within an hour of central Busan.

While there are a few options of places to make your base, the town of Eonyang may be your best bet, as it has plenty of restaurants and accommodations and is close to most of the action.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Eonyang Bus Terminal is served by regular buses from Busan’s Central Terminal in Nopo-dong. The trip takes about 35 minutes. There are regular buses from Busan’s Nopo-dong Terminal to Tongdosa. Gajisan Provincial Park and the Eoreumgol Cable Car can be reached by bus from the town of Miryang. The Baenegol Valley is accessible by bus from Yangsan, a northern suburban city of Busan. With the exception of Tongdosa, however, the area is best explored by car, since bus service can be spotty, at best.

CONTACTS Eonyang Intercity Bus Terminal. P52–264–3900.

TOURS

Hike Korea

GUIDED TOURS | Headed up by Kiwi expat Roger Shepherd (who has led trips on both sides of the DMZ), Hike Korea offers private guided excursions of the Yeongnam Alps for those keen to hit the trail. Clients can opt for routes scaling peaks such as Sinbulsan and Gajisan, or opt for an overnighter where you stay in a tent or a homestay. P10–2966–7612 wwww.hikekorea.com A2 days and 1 night: $1,000 USD for 1 person, $600 USD each for 2 people, $500 USD each for 3 people, and $450 USD each for 4 people.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Visitor information in English is available at the 1330 Korea Travel Helpline.

s Sights

Amethyst Cavern Park

CAVE | This former amethyst mine has been turned into a tourist attraction that’s worth a visit if caves are your thing. The 2.5-km-long (1.55 miles) cavern can be accessed on foot and offers views to amethysts, rotating exhibitions, as well as subterranean boat rides. There are a few older carnival rides outside in case the cave itself wasn’t thrilling enough for you. E212, Jasujeong-ro, Ulju-gun P1330 Korea Travel Helpline wjsjland.co.kr A₩7,000.

Baenaegol Valley

NATURE SIGHT | A popular summer getaway for Busan residents, who flock to its bracing river waters to beat the heat, this long valley is a beautiful area full of pine trees, apple orchards, waterfalls, and plenty of accommodations in the form of country pensions. It’s also a great base from which to launch hiking trips up into the Yeongnam Alps, which act as a natural rock walls on both sides of the valley. EDae-ri, Wondong-myeon, Yangsan-si.

Eonyang

TOWN | Famous for its hanu beef bulgogi, the town of Eonyang sits in the shadow of Sinbulsan mountain on the far outskirts of the city of Ulsan and makes the perfect base for exploring the Yeongnam Alps. Most of the main attractions are within a 20-minute drive of the town, which offers plenty in the way of lodging and food options. EEonyang Eup.

Eoreumgol (Ice Valley)

NATURE SIGHT | Situated on the northern flank of Cheonwangsan mountain, this natural wonder is famous for its unusual climate. In the heat of the summer, the valley’s streams and water freeze; in the winter, they thaw out and run at higher temperatures than normal in the region. There is also a cable car that runs to the top of nearby Jaeyaksan mountain (1,112 meters/3,648 feet), a rugged peak that’s considered the eastern gateway to the Yeongnam Alps. E1647, Sannae-ro, Miryang-si P1330 Korea Travel Helpline.

HTongdosa

TEMPLE | Nestled at the base of the stone-crowned Yeongchuksan, Korea’s largest temple is a village unto itself. With more than 65 buildings within the temple grounds, Tongdosa is one of the country’s “Three Jewel Temples” and is famous for having no outside statues of Buddha. This is because the temple contains relics of the Buddha himself, including a robe, a begging bowl, and a supposed piece of his skull. For all of its history, art, and heritage, Tongdosa shines brightest as a nature destination. The valley it calls home is a stunning piece of real estate, and the mountain that looms over the temple and surrounding town is like a gargantuan stone sentinel. You can feel the power emanating from the rock and understand at once why, centuries ago, it was decided that this was a holy place. Tongdosa also hosts temple stays, if you’re in the mood to experience life from the inside. E108 Tongdosa-ro, Yangsan P1330 Korea Travel Helpline wtongdosa.or.kr, templestay.tongdosa.or.kr A₩3,000 CClosed Mon.

HUlju Gajisan Provincial Park

MOUNTAIN | At 1,240 meters (4,068 feet) Gajisan is the highest mountain in the Yeongnam Alps, and makes a great day trip for anyone wanting to summit the peak. The best approach is from the trailhead at Baegyeonsa Temple. While it’s a challenging hike in spots, the trail is well-developed and it can be done by anyone in reasonable physical condition. And like any great trek, the view from the top makes all the hard work worth it. EEoreumgol-ro 3334-1 P1330 Korea Travel Helpline.

r Restaurants

Eonyang Giwajip BBQ

$$$ | KOREAN | Situated in a large, hanok-style house, this restaurant serves the hot coal-grilled hanu beef bulgogi for which Eonyang is famous. The marinated meat is tender and both sweet and savory, and the traditional surroundings only serve to add to the flavor. Known for: traditional atmosphere; crowds on the weekend; cold buckwheat noodles. DAverage main: ₩22,000 E86 Heonnyang-gil, Eonyang-eup P052–262–4884.

Eonyang Nongjang Saeng Ori

$$$ | KOREAN | Just a quick walk from the main gate of Tongdosa Temple, this wonderful restaurant specializes in boneless duck meat grilled at your table with a pile of assorted mushrooms. Diners can choose between a mild or spicy marinade accompanied with side dishes made from fresh, local vegetables. Known for: grilled duck; flavorful sides; convenient location. DAverage main: ₩25,000 E202 Jisan-ri, Habuk-myeon P055–382–4534.

h Hotels

Brown Dot Hotel Ulsan KTX

$ | MOTEL | Located in Eonyang next to Ulsan’s KTX station, this branch of the Korean chain is probably the best place to stay in town. Pros: complimentary Wi-Fi; continental breakfast on weekdays; new facilities. Cons: not so many amenities; no breakfast on weekends; slightly generic feel. DRooms from: ₩100,000 E1-9, Doho-gil Samnam-eup P052–264–8113 a47 rooms XFree Breakfast.

Solpark Pension

$$ | B&B/INN | Situated deep in the pines of the Baenaegol Valley, this rustic pension delivers tranquility and comfort in the most natural of surroundings. Pros: cooking and barbecue facilities on site; spacious grounds; rustic feel. Cons: far from any stores; few amenities; frequented by groups who can sometimes be loud. DRooms from: ₩100,001 E976-8 Dae-ri, Wondong-myeon P055–388–3055 wSolpark.co.kr (Korean only) a13 rooms XNo Meals.

b Shopping

Eonyang Market

MARKET | This traditional street market contains well over 400 vendors selling fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, clothing, dry goods, and traditional Korean medicine. Like many traditional markets, the street stalls are a main attraction, with delicacies such as tteokbokki (rice cakes in sweet, spicy sauce), bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes), guksu (thin noodles), and the deep fried snacks known as twigim. A covered arcade roof over the main concourse keeps browsers out of the rain. ENambu-ri, Eonyang-eup P052–264–0607.

WELCOME TO JEJU-DO

TOP REASONS TO GO

Natural treasures: Jeju’s stunning volcanic landscape includes not only the massive shield volcano of Hallasan, but also more than 360 satellite cones, surreal lava tubes, and dramatic seaside basalt cliffs.

Coastal trekking: Korea’s answer to Spain’s Camino de Santiago, the Jeju Olle Trail rings the entire island, linking coastal scenic spots, low-rise volcanic cones, and bucolic villages.

Turquoise seas: Relax at one of Jeju’s many stretches of sand, with black volcanic rock and deep blue sea. Divers can spot tropical life under the surface.

Unique culture: The historically remote volcanic island has a exclusive culture all its own, including a distinctive local dialect, unique vernacular architecture, and a proud tradition of female free divers.

Eat and drink: Jeju’s rich dining scene mixes traditionally local and ultra hip, from the island’s legendary “black pork” to trendy seaside cafes and Korea’s best craft beer.

The island of Jeju has two main towns with the lion’s share of accommodations and restaurants: Jeju-si (or Jeju City) and Seogwipo-si (Seogwipo City), but it also has worthy sights and eats on the northwestern, southwestern, and eastern shores. Use Hallasan, the island’s central mountain, to find your bearings.

Jeju-si. The provincial capital and gateway to Jeju is an increasingly hip town in its own right.

Hallasan National Park. This inland park is home to the dormant volcano and symbol of Jeju.

Eastern Jeju. This area includes Udo Island and Seongsan Ilchulbong, a dramatic coastal tuff cone and popular photo spot.

Northwestern Jeju. The trendy Hallim neighborhood has a botanical garden that’s one of Jeju’s most popular destinations.

Seogwipo-si. Jeju’s southern second city is a pleasant tourist town near waterfalls and the Jungmun Resort.

Southwestern Jeju and the Southern Islands. The windswept islands of Marado and Gapado make idyllic getaways from Jeju’s mainland.

The volcanic island of Jeju is a grand testament to the awesome power of nature. Dominated by the dormant shield volcano of Hallasan, which soars over 6,300 feet above the windswept island, Jeju boasts awe-inspiring landscapes with more than 360 cones and craters, surreal lava tubes, dramatic coastal cliffs, rolling fields and meadows, dense forests and bucolic villages of stone houses, basalt-lined paths, and citrus orchards.

So spectacular is Jeju’s natural environment that UNESCO has designated the island a Biosphere Reserve, World Natural Heritage and Global Geopark, the UN body’s so-called “Triple Crown.” Jeju is more than just a remarkably pretty place, however. The island’s rugged landscape and relative remoteness have produced a rich and distinctive culture, most famously represented by the haenyeo, female divers who free dive up to 30 feet deep to collect shellfish and other seafood. Though the unique local dialect has largely fallen into disuse, the language lives on in place names and terms like dol hareubang, the totemic statues of volcanic rock that symbolize the island.

For visitors, Jeju’s natural wonders are the chief draw. Many hikers take up the challenge of climbing Hallasan, but just as rewarding is the Jeju Olle Trail, the island’s network of coastal trekking trails that ring the 714-square-mile island. You can also explore the Manjanggul Cave, part of one of the world’s longest system of lava tubes, take in the sunrise from the magnificent coastal tuff cone of Seongsan Ilchulbong, wander in the dense forests of Gotjawal Provincial Park, or just stretch your legs in the wide open spaces of Jeju’s highland interior.

Many visitors, however, come just to relax at one of Jeju’s picturesque beaches, surf the waves off Jeju’s northeastern or southern coasts, or simply spend a couple of days pampering themselves in the sprawling resort complex of Jungmun.

Jeju also has one of Korea’s top dining scenes. Locals specialties include seafood, heukdwaeji (thick slices of barbecued pork from the island’s famous black haired pigs), and omegisul, an artisan liquor made from millet. The island produces tons of citrus fruit, most famously tangerines, as well as chocolate and green tea. Migrants from the mainland have contributed to the local dining scene, too, often in the form of hip cafes, trendy bars, and some of Korea’s best craft beer.

Planning

Getting Here and Around

AIR

Jeju International Airport is clean, efficient, and has plenty of shops to keep flyers happy. The Island is one hour from Seoul by air with daily flights in and out. There are also direct flights from Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, Fukuoka, Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Taipei, Bangkok, and other Asian cities.

One quirk is that while non-Koreans need not show a passport or resident ID card when they enter Jeju from the Korean mainland, they do need to show one when leaving for the mainland. This is because most nationalities can enter Jeju visa-free.

CONTACTS Jeju International Airport (CJU). EGonghang-ro 2, Jeju-si P1661–2626 wwww.airport.co.kr/jeju/index.do.

BOAT

Ferries sail between Jeju-si (Jeju City) and several cities on the peninsula—Goheung, Yeosu, Mokpo, Wando, and Busan—all of which can be reached from Seoul by KTX, Korea’s high speed train. We recommend flying over the ferry; it’s faster and more comfortable. In fact, the voyage from Busan takes 12 hours.

There are also ferries from Jeju to several offshore islands, including Udo, Gapado, and Marado. Ferries to Udo depart from the port of Seongsan in the east, while ferries to Gapado and Marado depart from Moseulpo in the southwest.

CONTACTS Busan Ferry Terminal. EChungjangdaero 24, Jung-gu P051/461–0084. Jeju Ferry Terminal. E111 Imhang-ro, Jeju-si P064/7720–8520. Mokpo Ferry Terminal. EHaeandong 1-ga 10-6, Jeju-si P061/1577–3567. Yeosu Ferry Terminal. EExpo Daero 320-66, Yesosu-si P061/662–8002. Seongsan Ferry Terminal. E129-21 Seongsandeungyong-ro, Seogwipo-si. Moseulpo Port (Gapado-Marado Ferry Service Passenger Terminal). E120 Choenamdanhaean-ro, Seogwipo-si P064/794–5490 wwonderfulis.co.kr.

BUS

Jeju doesn’t have trains or a subway system, but it does have a good public bus system.

Buses are roomy and cheap, with blue intercity and city buses taking you anywhere in province for ₩1,200. Depending on your destination, though, this can mean a long trip and/or infrequent buses. Red express buses are more expensive at ₩3,000, but they get you to the island’s four transit hubs (Jeju Bus Terminal in the north, Seogwipo Bus Terminal in the south, Daecheon Transit Center in the east, and Donggwang Transit Center in the west) in less than an hour. There’s also an airport limousine bus with plenty of luggage space that will take you from Jeju International Airport to Jungmun in Seogwipo in 50 minutes, and a bus that circles the tourist sights of eastern Jeju from Daecheon Transit Center that you can hop on and off all day for ₩3,000. Buses are air conditioned and have free Wi-Fi. The main drawback to Jeju’s bus system is that it operates almost exclusively in Korean. That said, the provincial authorities offer an app providing information on buses and routes—ask at Jeju International Airport for help downloading it.

CONTACTS Jeju Bus Terminal. E174 Seogwang-ro, Jeju-si P064/753–1153 wbus.jeju.go.kr.

CAR

A car is the easiest and quickest way to explore the island. Jeju has a very well-developed car rental scene, with numerous shops at or around Jeju International Airport. Rental prices are pretty low during the off-season, with sedans going for about ₩50,000 to ₩60,000 per day. However, prices more than double during the summer peak season. To rent a car, foreigners must have an international driver’s license and be at least 21 years old. Traffic is usually light; maps and street signs are in English and easy to follow; and with the exception of a few rural areas, roads conditions are good. Jeju does tend to have traffic circles over intersections. Also keep an eye out for motor scooters, motorcycles, and wild animals, especially at night.

CONTACTS Jeju Rent. E1531–1E 2 Longtan Rd, Jeju-si P064/735–3355 wwww.jejurentcar.co.kr.

TAXI

Taxis are safe, cheap, and a great option for getting around if you don’t want to rent a car. Most drivers speak a bit of English, but it’s always best to have your destination written down in Korean (Hangeul). Cabs here are all metered and charge ₩2,300 for the first 2 km, with an additional ₩100 every 168 meters after that (₩120 every 168 meters for long-distance trips of 20 kilometers or more). Taxi fares increase 20% between midnight and 4 am. Private cabs can be hired for around ₩100,000 to ₩150,000 per day.

CONTACTS Jeju Taxi Tour KJ. E80-2, Dongjewon-gil P10/6558–1267 wjejutaxitourkj.blogspot.com.

Hotels

As Korea’s premier tourist destination, Jeju offers a wide range of accommodations, from five-star luxury resorts to simple seaside B&Bs. Many of the luxury hotels are concentrated in the urban centers, especially Jeju City and Seogwipo’s Jungmun Tourist Complex. In recent years, owners have been turning some of Jeju’s traditional stone houses into B&Bs, a good option for travelers looking for something a bit more “local.”

Despite the plethora of lodging options, you’ll want to make sure you reserve a place in advance, especially during the summer high season.

Restaurants

HOTEL AND RESTAURANT PRICES

Hotel prices in the reviews are the lowest cost of a standard double room in high season. Restaurant prices in the reviews are the average cost of a main course at dinner, or if dinner is not served, at lunch.

Jeju’s restaurants run the gamut from seaside burger joints to trendy coffee shops to Korean specialty restaurants. You likely won’t leave without trying the island’s signature dish, heukdwaeji (black pork), thick, juicy slabs of pork from the Jeju black-haired pig, typically smoked over charcoal or—if the restaurant is really old school—burning hay. Other specialties include gosari haejangguk (a rich stew of pork and fernbrake, an edible fern that covers Jeju’s fields in spring), and wheat and barley dishes like gogi guksu (a hearty soup of thin wheat noodles, pork broth, and thick slices of pork meat) thanks to the island’s poor volcanic soil, which discourages rice cultivation. Finally, you’ll likely encounter dishes and drinks made with the island’s famous tangerines.

Tours

Several companies provide English-speaking bus tours around the island, usually focusing on either the island’s western, eastern, or southern attractions on a day trip.

Yeha Tour

BUS TOURS | This English-speaking bus tour drives you to Jeju’s greatest hits. Depending which tour you book, Yeha takes you to either western Jeju, highlighting Hallim Park and Hyupjae and Gumneung beaches, eastern Jeju to Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak) and the Hanyeo Museum, or southern Jeju to Hallasan National Park and Jeongbang waterfall. Tours depart at 9:30 each morning, and the meeting point is usually Jeju’s airport. Lunch is included. E706 Yeonbuk-ro, Jeju-si P064/713–5505 wwww.yehatour.com AFrom $89 USD.

Jeju Day Tour

BUS TOURS | A bus will pick you up from the airport or your Jeju-si hotel on a nine to ten-hour day tour of the island with this company. The East course tour highlighting Manjanggul Lava Cave and Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak) leaves on odd number days, while the West course highlighting Cheonjiyeon waterfall and the Osulloc Tea Museum leaves on even days. Lunch and tickets are included. You can also arrange for a private car and driver. Pick-up time is at 8:30 am, with drop off at 6 pm. E10 Yongdam 2-dong, Jeju-si P10/3709–4835 wwww.jejudaytour.com A₩79,000.

Visitor Information

CONTACTS Jeju Tourism Organization. EJeju Welcome Center, 23 Seondeok–ro, Yeon-dong P064/740–6000 wwww.ijto.or.kr.

When to Go

Peak Season: May to September

Though it’s the wettest time of year, the temperature hovers comfortably around 75°F. Huge crowds visit during these months, so be sure to book ahead.

Off Season: December to April

The winter season on Jeju is milder than the mainland, but not by much. Expect freezing temperatures and the occasional snow storm. Be aware that some hotels and attractions close down in the winter.

Shoulder Season: October to November

Autumn is the driest season on this wet island. The weather is still favorable, the crowds minimal, and the prices low.

Jeju Fire Festival

CULTURAL FESTIVALS | FAMILY | One of Korea’s most visually spectacular festivals is one rooted in Jeju’s pastoral past. In the old days, locals would light pastures every spring to rid grasslands of excess grass and vermin. The ash would also replenish the soil. While the practice has largely died out, it lives on at the Saebyeol Oreum in Aewol. Every March, locals set the entire volcanic cone alight at night, making the nighttime sky glow red. The event is accompanied by fireworks, torch marches, and plenty of food. ESaebyeol Oreum, Aewol-eup P064/728–2752 wwww.jejusi.go.kr/buriburi/main.do.

Timing

You can comfortably see the island in a few days, though there’s certainly enough to keep you busy for a full week. It takes roughly five hours to circumvent the island by car.

Shopping

The exclusive shopping districts in Jeju-si and Seogwipo-si are full of popular, brand-name shops and funky boutiques. Souvenir stores and the traditional, outdoor markets are also integral parts of the Jeju shopping experience. Be aware that shopping on the island is usually an expensive activity. Duty-free shops are popular and are located all over the island.

Nightlife

Ideal weather and an island locale only add to Jeju Island’s already hopping nightlife. Choose from a little bit of everything—concert hall performances, DJ dance fests, annual festivals, and clubs. There’s plenty to keep you entertained. Most options are centered in the island’s two towns, Jeju-si and Seogwipo-si (and its Jungmun Tourist Complex) but it’s also worth heading to northwestern Jeju’s trendy Hallim neighborhood for some of the island’s coolest new bars.

Jeju-si

450 km (280 miles) from Seoul

Jeju-si, or Jeju City, is the provincial capital and economic hub of Jeju Special Self-Governing Province, and home to nearly 490,000 people. Technically speaking, the “city” takes up the entire northern half of the island, but the urban core is located on the northcentral coast.

Home of Jeju International Airport, Jeju City is best known as the gateway to island. It’s also home to many of Jeju’s major hotels, shops, restaurants, and other visitor resources. It’s also a increasingly pleasant place in its own right, with plenty of history, hip eateries, trendy cafes, and a vibrant nightlife.

s Sights

Jeju Love Land

PUBLIC ART | Described as “a place where love-oriented art and eroticism meet,” this theme sculpture park provides some intriguing—albeit daring—insights into the art of love making. Given Korea’s relative conservatism this venue may come as a surprise for some. Throughout the grounds are 140 large sculptures and monuments. This is strictly an adult activity; keep the kids at home. E2894-72 1100 (Cheonbaek)-ro, Yeon-dong P064/712–6988 wwww.jejuloveland.com A₩12,000.

Manjanggul Lava Cave

CAVE | Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this cave was created many millennia ago when the island’s volcano was still active. Manjanggul is the largest lava cave on the island, stretching for about 4.5 miles, though less than a mile is open to the public. The path into the cave is well lit but it still feels dark and spooky. Manjanggul is part of the larger, 300,000-year-old Geomun Oreum lava tube system and is packed stalactites, stalagmites, and a lava column—it’s a photographer’s playground. E182 Manjanggul-gil, Gujwa-eup jGujwa-eup P064/710–7903 A₩4,000.

; Beaches

Hamdeok Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Like most of the beaches on Jeju’s northern coast, you’ll find plenty of white sand sloping gently into crystal clear water, along with plenty of cafes, restaurants, and other amenities. What really sets Hamdeok Beach apart, though, is that it’s right next to a sizable volcanic cone, Seoubong. It’s a short hike to the top, where you’ll find great views over the coast. The hill is covered in bright yellow canola blossoms in spring and golden cosmos flowers in autumn, too. The beach is just 30 minutes from Jeju International Airport, making it one of the island’s most accessible seaside destinations. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming; walking. E519-10 Johamhaeanro, Jocheon-eup.

r Restaurants

Donsadon

$$$ | KOREAN BARBECUE | FAMILY | You’ll find heukdwaeji (black pork) all over Jeju, but a can’t miss place is Donsadon, where they grill skin-on pork belly and other cuts over coal briquettes, lending the meat a delightfully smoky flavor. Wash the meat down with a shot, or several shots, of Hallasan soju, a much beloved local firewater. Known for: thick slices of pork; local favorite; lively atmosphere. DAverage main: ₩66,000 E15 Gwangpyeongdong-ro, Nohyeong-dong P064/746–8989 CClosed Tues.

Ollae Guksu

$ | KOREAN | FAMILY | This small, unassuming joint in downtown Jeju has only one item on the menu: gogi guksu (a hearty soup of thin wheat noodles, pork broth, and thick slices of pork meat), served with a side of kimchi and a couple of green chili peppers. You can find this local specialty throughout Jeju, but few places do it better. Known for: cheap and filling; long lines (but they move quickly); celebrity signatures covering the walls. DAverage main: ₩8,500 E24 Gwiaranggil, Jeju-si P064/742–7355 CClosed Sun.

Rajmahal

$ | INDIAN | Owner Kamal B. K. serves delicious traditional Indian cuisine in this second story restaurant located on a busy shopping street in Yeon-dong district. Known for: tandoori chicken; authentic Indian cuisine; halal menu. DAverage main: ₩11,325 E43 Singwang-ro, 2nd fl, Yeon-dong P064/749–4924 wrajmahalkorea.weebly.com.

Ujin Haejangguk

$ | KOREAN | At this no-frills Korean eatery—so popular that it has its own waiting hall—one of the house specialties is gosari haejangguk, a rich stew of pork and fernbrake, an edible fern that covers Jeju’s fields in spring. So thick that it’s almost a porridge, the stew reportedly keeps hangovers away, an assertion you could test with a bottle or two of locally produced Hallasan soju. Known for: hearty and filling; healthy cuisine; local favorite. DAverage main: ₩9,000 E11 Seosaro, Jeju-si P064/757–3393 CClosed Lunar New Year and Chuseok.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Coffee Temple

$ | CAFÉ | Kim Sa-hong, one of Korea’s top baristas, moved his operations to this former tangerine plantation on the slopes of Hallasan in 2020. His cafe has since become a travel destination in its own right. Known for: “Super Clean Espresso”; artsy vibe; tangerine cappuccino. DAverage main: ₩6,500 E269 Yeongpyeonggil, Jeju-si P064/070–8806–8051 xNo kids allowed.

h Hotels

Blind Whale

$$$$ | HOUSE | Two old Jeju-style stone homes directly abutting in the quiet port town of Jocheon have been masterfully renovated as a rental house. Pros: fully equipped kitchen; outdoor grill; comfort with a touch of local culture. Cons: not cheap; no children allowed; lacks amenities of a hotel. DRooms from: ₩500,000 E19-12 Jocheon 7-gil, Jeju-si P0504/0904–2005 wblindwhale.co.kr/reservation xNo children allowed.

HGrand Hyatt Jeju

$$$$ | HOTEL | This massive, twin tower landmark rising 38 stories above downtown Jeju City is home to 1,600 rooms and suites, 14 restaurants and bars, two spas, and plenty of other amenities, making the complex a self-contained holiday in and of itself. Pros: views of Hallasan and the sea; plenty of amenities; contemporary design with modern Korean art. Cons: expensive; there’s so much on site, it’s easy not to stay in rather than explore; breakfast costs extra. DRooms from: ₩450,000 E12 Noyeon-ro, Jeju-si P064/907–1234 wwww.hyatt.com a1,600 rooms XNo Meals.

Ramada Plaza Jeju Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | With great views of the ocean and mountains, the Ramada is centrally located in downtown Jeju City and a five-minute walk to the chic Tap-dong shopping district. Pros: great views; restaurants and bars on site; big, comfortable bath tubs. Cons: geared mostly to business travelers; restaurants are pricey; must pay to use the gym. DRooms from: ₩170,000 E66 Tapdong-ro, Jeju-si P064/729–8100 wwww.ramadajeju.co.kr a400 rooms XNo Meals.

Yeha Guesthouse

$ | B&B/INN | A favorite among backpackers, this modest guesthouse is in the heart of old Jeju City and around the corner from the lively Si-cheong shopping and nightlife district. Pros: easy to socialize over free drinks in the common room; friendly staff willing to arrange specialized tours; free international calls. Cons: not as luxurious as other island options; low water pressure in some rooms; noisy during the peak seasons. DRooms from: ₩60,000 E9 Samo-gil, Jeju-si P064/724–5506 wwww.yehaguesthouse.com a14 rooms XFree Breakfast.

n Nightlife

Bluebird by Magpie

BREWPUBS | Magpie Brewing helped launch Korea’s craft beer scene when they opened their first brewpub in Seoul in 2011. In 2016, they opened a beautiful brewery and taphouse in Jeju, repurposing an abandoned tangerine warehouse. (Last order is 7 pm and it’s a bit out of town, however.) Much more accessible is Bluebird by Magpie, a lively second-story space in downtown Jeju, not far from Jeju International Airport. In addition to their four regular beers—the pale ale, porter, kölsch, and IPA—they serve a range of seasonal beers, often incorporating local elements such as Jeju tangerine peel and smoked pumpkin. The pub grub here is pretty good, too, including handmade pizzas and tasty chicken tenders. Tables and bar seating are available. E7 Tapdong-ro 2gil, Jeju-si P064/722–2849.

Hwasan 2020

PUBS | Overlooking the sea not far from Jeju International Airport and Yongduam Rock, Hwasan 2020 brings together the best culinary traditions of Jeju and Japan. Essentially an izakaya, the menu boasts some excellent Japanese favorites, including a maguro futomaki stuffed with tuna and local fernbrake fried shiitake mushrooms and shrimp. Local Jeju favorites figure prominently, too, including a bomal bibimguksu (seasoned chilled noodles with sea snails) garnished with seaweed and buckwheat. All dishes are beautifully presented. As for alcoholic beverages, you’ll find a pleasing selection of traditional Jeju firewaters, including omegisul, a fermented beverage made from the local staple, millet. For something fruitier, try the Hondiju, a fermented drink made from tangerines. Tables have views of the sea, but sit at the bar if you want to watch what’s happening in the open kitchen. E85 Heungungil, Jeju-si P064/803–0332.

Ile de Vin

WINE BARS | This cozy wine bar offers more than 130 reasonably priced vintages from Chile, France, the United States, Spain, Italy, Argentina, and New Zealand. There’s also a small menu with pizzas, pastas, salads, and cheese plates. E272–49 Yeon-dong, Jeju-si P064/745–1982.

b Shopping

Dongmun Market Place

MARKET | Open since 1945, Dongmun Market is the best place to go for a taste of the local foodstuffs, like black pork, tangerines, hairtail fish, and abalone. Try the omegitteok (a cake made from millet), and borippang (steamed barley buns). The market functions as a shopping space during the day, with the street food sellers really coming out at night. Located at the crossroads of several Olle walking trails and next to the lively Tap-dong district, it’s a great place to explore. E1329–6 Ido 1-dong, Ido-dong 1 P064/752–3001.

Jeju City Five Day Market

MARKET | FAMILY | The largest open-air market in Jeju (and the largest five-day market in Korea) has around 1,000 stalls, with everything from local produce to pet birds. The five-day market is a staple for locals and a must-see cultural experience for visitors. One area of particular interest is the “Grandmother’s Market,” a group of 300 stalls run by local women over the age of 65. The market is only open one out of every 5 days, on the 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd, and 27th of every month. E1204–1 Doduil-dong Cheju, Dodu-dong P064/722–3284.

Jungang Underground Shopping Center

DEPARTMENT STORE | An underground labyrinth of boutiques, name-brand shops, skin-care stands, small restaurants, and ice cream stalls. Try to hit the sales as prices here are sometimes even more expensive than the above-ground shopping districts. E1425-3 Ildoil-dong, Jeju-si P064/752–8776.

Shilla Duty Free Shop

DUTY-FREE | The sprawling Shilla Duty Free Shop in the Yeon-dong district is the largest duty free store on the island and carries designer brand names like Louis Vuitton, Prada, and a good selection of perfumes, cosmetics, handbags, and sunglasses. E69 Noyeon-ro, Jeju-si P016/881–110 wwww.shilladfs.com.

Tap-dong Jeju

NEIGHBORHOODS | Conveniently located at the heart of downtown Jeju, Tap-dong is the largest shopping district on the island. Most shops stay open until 4 am, so it’s a great place to spend an evening. There are also a lot of restaurants, bars, and theaters, as well as local vendors selling handicrafts on the street. ETap-dong, Tap-dong jBoardwalk near Jeju Por.

Yeon-dong Shopping District

NEIGHBORHOODS | This pedestrian-only street is jam packed with funky boutiques, exclusive brand name shops, restaurants and Karaoke bars. It’s decorated with sculptures and flowerpots, and is a happening spot on Saturday nights when stores stay open late. Locals also call this area Jewon. EYeon-dong.

a Activities

BICYCLING

Jeju has dedicated bike paths that ring the entire island, the so-called Jeju Fantasy Bicycle Trail, taking bike riders past many of Jeju’s best beaches and scenic spots. In particular, the roughly 40 mile stretch from Namwon to the Kimnyeong Seongsegi Coast follows the ocean, offering fine views. All in all, the circuit route is 145 miles long and takes about 15.5 hours to conquer. If you don’t want to lug your bike all the way to Jeju, it’s easy enough to rent one when you arrive.

Biketrip

BIKING | You can rent a road bike from Biketrip, a bike rental shop that’s just a five-minute walk from Jeju International Airport. While you’re there, you can also pick up a stamp book to fill at the many stamp booths along the way. Turn your stamp book into Biketrip when you’re done to get a completion sticker. E26-3, Yongmun-ro, Jeju-si P064/744–5990 wwww.biketrip.co.kr/shop/main/index.php ABike rental from ₩37,000 per day CClosed Wed.

HIKING

HJeju Olle Trail

HIKING & WALKING | FAMILY | Inspired by Spain’s Camino de Santiago, former journalist Suh Myung-suk founded the first Jeju Olle Trail in in 2007. Today, 26 trails stretching 264 miles ring the entire island, taking hikers through rural villages, scenic beaches, and many of Jeju’s oreum volcanic cones. The perfect blend of culture and nature, the trail system is Korea’s best walk, bar none. The trails are so popular, in fact, that’s they’ve inspired several municipalities on the mainland to open similarly accessible walking trails. Trails differ in length and intensity, but most are about 10 miles long and require about five hours of walking. Although the trails are easy enough for anyone to complete, a decent pair of trekking shoes helps. And bring a pullover and an umbrella—the weather can be a bit fickle on the island. P064/762–2190 wwww.jejuolle.org/trail/eng/default.asp.

Hallasan National Park

The center of Jeju-do is Hallasan National Park, where the dormant volcano that created the island lies. There are many hiking trails and a camping site for those who wish to explore this lush interior.

s Sights

Hallasan National Park

NATIONAL PARK | FAMILY | Jeju’s dominant topographical feature is Hallasan, an extinct shield volcano that looms 1,950 meters (6,397 feet) over the island. The mountain’s lower slopes are covered in dense woods, fields, pastures, and citrus groves that give way to grassy meadows, azalea fields, and forests of dead yew trees at higher elevations. More than 360 parasitic cones cover the volcano’s flanks. There are seven hiking trails up the mountain, though the two most popular—the Seongpanak and Gwaneumsa trails—now require reservations. Both take about 10 hours, and while the hike to the crater at the peak can be a slog, no technical climbing is required and the views over the island are well worth the effort. Beware of the strong winds and sudden change in temperature as altitude increases. Hallasan has camping sites, parking, a visitors center, and bathrooms. E2070–61 1100-ro, Jeju-si P064/713–9953 wwww.jeju.go.kr/hallasan/index.htm AFree.

Sangumburi Crater

NATURE PRESERVE | FAMILY | More than 6,500 feet in circumference and 420 feet deep, Sangumburi is not only one of the largest of Jeju’s 360 volcanic craters, but it’s also a rare “maar”—that is, it was formed when groundwater came into contact with magma, causing an explosion. The crater functions as a nature preserve, hosting more than 400 species of trees and plants and populations of deer and other animals. The crater is particularly spectacular in autumn, when its flanks are covered in shimmering silvergrass. Its rim offers fine views of Hallasan as well. The crater is an easy five-minute walk from the park gate. E768 Bijarim-ro, Jeju-si P064/783–9900 wwww.sangumburi.net A₩6,000.

h Hotels

Hanhwa Resort Jeju

$$ | HOTEL | Located at the foot of Hallasan mountain, this picturesque resort is the ultimate mountain retreat in the winter and tropical adventure lodge in the summer. Pros: excellent spa; great for families and large groups; beautiful mountain views. Cons: Wi-Fi available only in lobby; toiletry items not provided; crowded in peak season. DRooms from: ₩235,000 E575–107 Meyonglim-ro, Jeju-si P064/725–9000 wwww.hanwharesort.co.kr a380 rooms XFree Breakfast.

Eastern Jeju

Blessed with pristine coastlines, scenic volcanic cones, dramatic seaside cliffs and thick forests, eastern Jeju is a land of great scenic beauty and natural splendor. It’s also a region of sharp contrasts: some places like Woljeong-ri have been overrun by tourists, while others places such as Sehwa retain much of the island’s old-school charm.

Many visitors to this part of the island come to see Seongsan Ilchulbong, a dramatic coastal tuff cone and one of Jeju’s most iconic images. Another popular destination is Udo Island, a “Jeju in miniature” with white sand beaches, volcanic stone-lined paths, and relaxing seaside scenery.

s Sights

Jeju Haenyeo Museum

OTHER MUSEUM | This museum is dedicated to Jeju’s remarkable female divers, or haenyeo, who dive more than 30 feet deep to collect shellfish and other sea critters without the help of oxygen masks. They do this up to seven hours a day, 90 days of the year, holding their breath for a full minute on each dive. Jeju’s women free divers were inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2016. In addition to its exhibits on haenyeo, the museum has a sculpture garden and gift shop. A visit here is usually paired with a trip to adjacent Sehwa Beach. EHado-ri, Gujwa-eup P64/710–7771 wwww.jeju.go.kr/haenyeo/index.htm A₩1,100 CClosed Mon.

Seongeup Folklore Village

MUSEUM VILLAGE | Go back in time and experience the traditional Jeju way of life in this preserved agricultural village. The thatched roof and lava rock wall homes have been passed down through the generations and locals still inhabit the 3,000 homes. Visitors gather here to watch villagers perform folk songs and listen to them speak in the Jeju dialect. Stop by the souvenir shop to pick up a harubang, the grandfather statue that has become one of the images of Jeju. E19 Seongeupjeonguihyeon-ro, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-si P064/760–3578 AFree.

HSeongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak)

MOUNTAIN | Arguably Jeju’s most recognized tourist sight, Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak) is a dramatic tuff cone created around 5,000 years ago after an underwater volcanic explosion. Rising 600 feet out of the sea like a coastal fortress, the cone is ringed by dramatic cliffs sculpted by thousands of years of wind and waves, and capped by a grassy, bowl-shaped caldera. The peak was designated a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site in 2007 thanks to its “outstanding aesthetic beauty” and geological significance.

It takes about an hour to hike the well-maintained path to the lip of the crater, where you can take in views of the caldera and the sea beyond. The best views of the peak, however, are to be had at nearby Gwangchigi Beach, especially at sunrise, when the peak is silhouetted against the rising sun. If you’re lucky, it will also be low-tide, exposing the moss-covered volcanic rocks along the beach. E284-12 Ilchul-ro, Seongsan-eup P064/783–0959 A₩ 5,000 CClosed first Mon. of the month.

Seopjikoji Cape

VIEWPOINT | Seopjikoji Cape juts out into the sea from eastern Jeju, not far from the impressive volcanic cone of Seongsan Ilchulbong. Unique among Jeju’s coastal sites, the cape is made of red volcanic ash, or scoria. Gentle hiking trails take you along the cape’s fields and hills, providing lovely views of the sea and surrounding area. Jeju’s native horses graze here, and in spring, the fields blaze golden with canola blossoms. The Phoenix Jeju owns most of the cape. The resort includes Pritzker Prize-winning architect Tadao Ando’s Glass House, a minimalist concrete and glass cafe and restaurant overlooking the sea, and the Genius Loci, a tranquil mediation garden of concrete, stone, and water. E107, Seopjikoji-ro, Seongsan-eup P064/740–6000.

Udo Island

ISLAND | FAMILY | Just 15 minutes by ferry from the port of Seongsan, this small volcanic island used to be a hidden piece of bucolic old Jeju. In recent years, the hip crowd has discovered the place en masse, bringing trendy cafes, restaurants, and bed-and-breakfasts with them. Still, the island’s patchwork of fields and pathways lined by volcanic stones walls remind visitors what Jeju was like before tourism transformed it forever. Fields of bright-yellow canola flowers light the island up in early spring; many charge small entry fees. The island also has hiking trails, bike paths, ATV and scooter rentals, scenic coastal cliffs and Seobin Beach, one of the finest white sand beaches in Jeju and East Asia’s only beach made of rhodoliths (red algae nodules). On a culinary note, the island is renowned for its peanuts, which locals use to make ice cream, cheesecakes, beverages and other delicacies. ESeongsan-ri, Seongsan-eup P064/782–5671 Udo Ferry Terminal A₩10,500 for round-trip ferry, plus a ₩1,500 entry and service fee.

Yongnuni Oreum Volcanic Cone

VOLCANO | FAMILY | Trekkers and photographers flock to this low-lying, horseshoe-shaped volcanic cone in Jeju’s northeast for its gentle, undulating landscapes and its ever changing seasonal foliage. It takes just 15 minutes of easy hiking to reach the top of the cone, where you can take in views of Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak), Udo Island, and some of Jeju’s other prominent volcanic cones. You can circumnavigate the entire crater in a leisurely one-hour hike. The cone attracts many hikers particularly in autumn, when colonies of shining silvergrass cover its slopes. EJongdallon-gil, Jeju-si P064/740–6000.

; Beaches

Gwangchigi Beach

BEACH | This stretch of black sand near Seongsan is best known for its views of Seongsan Ilchulbong, especially at sunrise. In fact, many of the promotional shots of the peak are taken from here. If you’re lucky, sunrise will coincide with low tide, when the sunlight will glisten off the beach’s moss-covered volcanic rocks. Aside from the views, there are some good restaurants near the beach, as well as horse riding facilities and canola flower fields in spring. Amenities: food and drink; toilets. Best for: sunrise, walking. E63 Seopjikoji-ro, Jeju-si.

Sehwa Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Like Jeju’s other beaches, Sehwa Beach is a captivating medley of white sand, black rock, and jewel-toned water. What it lacks, however, are crowds—and here lies its charm. Still relatively untouristed, this is as tranquil a stretch of coast as you will find anywhere on the island. Sehwa has also attracted its share of hipsters from the mainland, as its trendy cafes and popular Bellongjang artisan market will attest. On the 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th, 25th, and 30th of the month, the beach area also hosts one of northeast Jeju’s biggest open air markets, where you’ll find locally harvested seafood, carrots, and other produce. Nearby is the Jeju Haenyeo Museum, where visitors can learn about the lives of Jeju’s famous female divers, or haenyeo. Amenities: food and drink; toilets. Best for: sunsets; sunrises; walking; solitude. E27 Haenyeobangmulgwangil, Gujwa-eup.

Seobinbaeksa Beach

BEACH | Though this beach’s proper name is Udo Sanho Beach, it’s popularly known as Seobinbaeksa, which means “beautiful white sand beach in the west.” As the name would suggest, this strip of white sand on the western side of Udo is quite stunning, as are the views it provides of the Jeju mainland. The sand is actually made from coral, or more precisely, red algal nodules called rhodoliths. For this reason, the beach has been designated a natural monument by the Korean government. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; showers. Best for: sunsets; swimming; walking; snorkeling. E252 Udohaean-gil, Jeju-si.

Woljeong Coast

BEACH | FAMILY | Not so long ago, the Woljeong Coast was a beautiful and relatively quiet stretch of white sand and emerald sea on the road to Seongsan in northeast Jeju. Nothing can remain secret forever, though, and the area is now a bit overrun with cafes, restaurants, and bed-and-breakfasts such as the Lunamar Pool Resort. That said, there are worse ways to spend an afternoon than taking in the captivating seaside scenery over an artisanal cold brew or craft beer. Try the carrot cake at the cafe Gujwa Sanghoe, a beautifully renovated traditional Jeju home with walls of volcanic rock. Some of the cafes have placed colorful wooden chairs on the beach boardwalk; these have become popular photo spots. Woljeong Coast’s water is pretty shallow, making it ideal for children. At the same time, the area gets consistent waves, drawing plenty of surfers. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; lifeguards; showers. Best for: sunsets; sunrises; surfing; swimming. EWoljeongri 33-3, Gujwa-eup.

r Restaurants

Buchon Sikdang

$ | KOREAN | FAMILY | Hidden in an old stone home in a small forest grove in the town of Seongsan, this cozy place serves a mean galchi jorim (braised hairtail), a Jeju specialty. It’s also known for being especially inviting to solo diners, still something of a rarity in Korea. Known for: braised hairtail; local Hallasan soju; seaweed soup. DAverage main: ₩12,000 E327-3 Goseong-ri, Seongsan-eup P064/784–0149.

Haha Hoho

$ | BURGER | FAMILY | Udo Island might seem a strange place to find one of Korea’s finest burger joints, yet this renovated lava rock house overlooking the sea hits the spot with massive, filling burgers, the patties made of locally produced “black pork” or shrimp sitting high atop lettuce, tomato, and other ingredients. The signatures are the garlic burger with a sauce made from garlic cultivated just across the strait in Jeju’s Gujwa township, and the peanut burger served with a sauce made from Udo’s very own peanuts. Known for: huge, unique burgers; local peanut ice cream; seaside ambiance. DAverage main: ₩10,000 E532 Udohaeangil, Jeju-si P10/2899–1365 wwww.instagram.com/hahahohocafe.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Blanc Rocher

$ | CAFÉ | Tucked away in a cove in northeastern Udo Island, this cafe opens its window walls when the weather is nice, letting in the ocean breeze. Udo Island is renowned throughout Korea for its peanuts, a fact reflected in the menu starring peanut ice cream, lattes with peanut-flavored milk, peanut cheesecake, and even jars of peanut jam. Known for: peanut cream latte; views of the sea; outdoor terrace. DAverage main: ₩8,500 E783 Udohaeangil, Jeju-si P064/782–9154.

Cafe Hallasan

$ | CAFÉ | Two old homes overlooking the Sehwa Coast have been renovated into one of the island’s most picturesque cafes. Strategically placed windows offer captivating views of the emerald sea, while the vintage interiors foster a warm, intimate atmosphere. Known for: Jeju’s most picturesque carrot cake; loads of charm; espressos and tangerine juice. DAverage main: ₩6,500 E48 Myeonsu 1gil, Gujwa-eup P064/783–1522 xNo children allowed.

Dorrell

$ | CAFÉ | Located on the grounds of Playce Camp Jeju in Seongsan, Dorrell projects a younger, edgier vibe with its skateboarder aesthetic, but coffee lovers of all ages flock here for its singular “Nutty Cloud”—cold milk and cold peanut cream over hot espresso, drunk unmixed. Simultaneously bitter and sweet, it’s a great way to start the morning. Known for: Nutty Cloud; hip vibe; unique baked goods. DAverage main: ₩6,000 E20 Dongnyuam-ro, Seongsan-eup P064/766–3008.

Gujwa Sanghoe

$$ | CAFÉ | Easily one of the most photogenic cafes on Jeju, Gujwa Sanghoe is a collection of old Jeju stone homes, beautifully renovated with vintage wood interiors decorated with arrangements of dried flowers. The star of the menu is the carrot cake, prepared from locally grown carrots. Known for: carrot cake and black tea; charming neighborhood; vintage vibes. DAverage main: ₩13,000 E55 Woljeong 1-gil, Jeju-si P10/6600–6648 CClosed Tues. and Wed.

h Hotels

Haevichi Hotel & Resort Jeju

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | Stylish, contemporary, and fully loaded with all the usual amenities, this remote getaway is a popular family destination and just minutes from the beach. Pros: indoor and outdoor pool; great views of the ocean and the mountains; walking distance to the folk village. Cons: 20-minute drive to Seogwipo; crowded and noisy in the summer; pricey food. DRooms from: ₩359,195 E537 Minsokhaen-ro, Pyoseon-myeon P064/780–8000 wwww.haevichi.com a503 rooms XFree Breakfast.

Hayan Gorae Villa Pension

$$$ | B&B/INN | These two charming renovated farmhouses on Udo Island have a lovely garden surrounded by traditional stone walls. Pros: seaside location; local flavor; outdoor barbecue grills. Cons: a bit expensive; lacks amenities of larger hotels; remote. DRooms from: ₩250,000 E286-1 Udo-ro, Jeju-si P10/4303–5949 a2 units.

Phoenix Jeju

$$$$ | RESORT | This sprawling resort owns most of the scenic cape Seopjikoji, and in addition to the stunning natural backdrop, it boasts architecture by renowned masters Tadao Ando and Mario Botta and even its own Art Nouveau museum. Pros: beautiful architecture; decent dining; dramatic scenery. Cons: expensive; a bit out of the way; some facilities reserved for resort members. DRooms from: ₩333,000 E107 Seopjikoji-ro P064/731–7000–5 wphoenixhnr.co.kr/en/page/main/jeju.

Playce Camp Jeju

$$ | HOTEL | Located near Jeju’s famed Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak), this lifestyle accommodation offers plenty of opportunities to mix and mingle, hosting activities like seaside yoga classes, nature hikes, group jogs, and surfing and diving classes. Pros: great place to meet new people; hosts plenty of activities; one of the hippest places to stay in Jeju. Cons: rooms are a bit on the Spartan side; can be a bit noisy during the peak season; onsite dining is limited. DRooms from: ₩110,000 E20 Dongnyuam-ro, Seongsan-eup P064/766–3000 wwww.playcegroup.com a177 rooms XNo Meals.

n Nightlife

Spinning Wolf

BARS | Spinning Wolf is a lively pub in the Playce Camp Jeju complex in Seongsan. In addition to their own draft pale ale and IPA, they also serve a selection of draft beers from local craft breweries Jeju Beer Brewery and Magpie, and some artistically presented cocktails, including a refreshing frozen daiquiri. Pub grub includes several boneless chicken platters, fish and chips, Cuban sandwiches with Jeju black pork, and pizza with black pork and potatoes. There’s often live music at night and parties on special occasions. E20 Dongnyuam-ro, Seongsan-eup P064/766–3009 wwww.instagram.com/spinningwolf.jeju.

b Shopping

Bellongjang Market

MARKET | FAMILY | Sehwa-ri’s Bellongjang is a local flea market that takes place on the Saturday from 11:00 am to 1:00 pm from March to October, except on the 5th, 10th, 15th, 20th, 25th, and 30th of the month, when the local five-day market opens. Initially formed by younger creative types who moved to the island from the mainland, it now draws many local merchants, not to mention plenty of travelers. In addition to handicrafts and other artworks, you’ll find handcrafted post cards, locally made carrot juice, and other unique goodies. E20-8 Sehwa 1-gil, Gujwa-eup.

Northwestern Jeju

The northwestern section of Jeju, particularly the neighborhood of Hallim, has become increasingly hip in recent years, with plenty of cool bars, restaurants, and coffee shops to fill your beach days at Hyeopjae or trip to the botanical garden.

s Sights

HHallim Park

GARDEN | FAMILY | This is a botanical garden, zoo, and cultural experience all wrapped up in one. At this Jeju-themed park, visitors experience the flora of Jeju while winding through a maze of greenhouses, orchards, and reptile enclosures. The walk-in bird sanctuary puts you face to face with peacocks and other native fowl. The water garden, traditional folk village, and bonsai and stone statue park represent the island’s artistic heritage. There are even two small lava tubes guests can walk through. If your visit is short, Hallim Park is a great way to experience Jeju’s many facets in just a few hours. E300 Hallim-ro, Hallim-eup P064/796–0001 wwww.hallimpark.co.kr A₩12,000.

; Beaches

Geumneung Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | Korean travelers regard Geumneung Beach as Jeju’s most “exotic,” largely owing to its row of palm trees. It also gets some of Jeju’s finest sunsets, when the descending sun turns the seascape around Biyangdo (Biyang Island) into a canvas of red, orange, and violet. The beach’s shallow depth and concentration of volcanic rocks make it an ideal place for snorkeling. The shallow water also makes the beach popular with family vacationers, especially in summer. The beach has a free camping ground that’s open year-round. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; lifeguards; showers. Best for: walking; swimming; sunsets; snorkeling. E119-10 Geumneung-gil, Hallim-eup.

Hyeopjae Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | One of the most popular beaches on Jeju’s northwest coast is also one of its most picturesque thanks to its white sands, black volcanic rock, emerald sea, and the small volcanic island Biyangdo just off the coast. Gently sloping into shallow seas, the beach makes for a perfect family getaway. The sunsets from here (and nearby Geumneung Beach) are inspiring. The beach is lined with plenty of charming cafes and restaurants, as is the nearby town of Hallim. Also nearby is Hallim Park, an arboretum and one of the island’s most popular tourist destinations. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; lifeguards; showers. Best for: walking; swimming; sunsets. E329-10, Hallim-ro, Jeju-si.

r Restaurants

Su Udong

$$ | JAPANESE | Overlooking the sea near Hyeopjae Beach and set within a renovated traditional Jeju home, this is a charming spot to order a lunch of udon (Japanese wheat noodles) and tonkatsu (Japanese pork cutlets). Hot udon is available, but the house specialty is its chilled udon, to which you can add fish cake and egg tempura. Known for: view of Biyangdo Island; intimate atmosphere; big bowls of chilled udon. DAverage main: ₩12,501 E11 Hyeopjae 1gil, Hallim-eup P064/064–796–5830 CClosed Mon.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Anthracite Jeju Hallim

$ | CAFÉ | Seoul-based coffee roaster Anthracite opened its second branch in a 70-year-old former sweet potato flour mill in Jeju’s increasingly trendy Hallim district. They kept the lava rock walls and wooden ceiling, but planted a verdant indoor garden of ferns and other local plants along one wall, fed by plenty of natural light pouring through the ceiling. Known for: expert coffee blends; baked goods; beautiful historical space. DAverage main: ₩6,000 E564 Hallim-ro, Hallim-eup P064/796–7991.

n Nightlife

Jeju Beer Brewery

BREWPUBS | Jeju Beer is one of the island’s most beloved craft beer brands, widely available on the Korean mainland as well. Their wheat ale is particularly popular, as is their citrusy Pellong Ale. The picturesque brewery in Hallim offers tours, though by reservation only, and only on Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Tours conclude at the third-floor pub, where you can sample the brewery’s products. There’s also a shop where you can buy Jeju Beer swag, as well as products from the brewery’s many brand collaborations. E62-11 Geumneungnonggong-gil, Jeju-si P064/798–9872 wwww.jejubeer.co.kr/brewery-intro.

Matilda

BARS | Old-school vinyl music is the name of the game at this popular LP bar in western Jeju. The drink menu is decent enough, with standard cocktails like gin and tonics, martinis, and jack and cokes, in addition to the usual selection of bottled imported beers and high-priced whiskeys, tequilas, and other potables. Where Matilda really shines, though, is the music selection, with a vinyl selection that would put a streaming service to shame. You’re welcome to make requests on a slip of paper you receive when you order, albeit with a couple of provisos: only one song per person, no Korean pop released since 2000, no classical Korean “trot” music, and no club music. The old music posters and retro decor provide an interesting contrast with the ultra-modern raw concrete walls. A single rectangle window frames the sea to masterful effect. E841 Gonae-ri, Aewol-eup P064/799–3629.

singsingEAT

PUBS | This bistro pub near Hyeopjae Beach makes sublime use of an 50-year-old tangerine warehouse to create a highly atmospheric dining and drinking space, from the wooden truss ceiling to the rice sacks piled up along one of the walls. The drink menu features all the basic cocktails, a few bottled beers, and decent (albeit pricey) selections of wines, cognacs, vodka, tequila, and other fire waters. The real draw, however, is the food, including their signature Jeju black pork barbecue and the “Tanning Banana,” a roasted banana topped with ice cream. The place can get quite lively; it draws a younger, hipper crowd, and DJs help keep the mood going. There’s also a “photo zone” where you’ll find plenty of people waiting to snap selfies in front of a wall of Panama hats. E1282-1 Geumneung-ri, Hallim-eup P10/9764–4841.

a Activities

DIVING

Haenyeo School

DIVING & SNORKELING | Located in Hallim in western Jeju, Hansupul Haenyeo School is helping train the next generation of haenyeo or female free divers. They offer two kinds of classes: a vocational class for women serious about becoming haenyeo (only women who have lived over two years in one of Jeju’s fishing villages with recommendations from the local fishing village chief or diving chairperson), and an introductory class open to all all persons under the age of 50, including international visitors. The introductory course takes about 30 people per year for the four month course (May to August); up to 10% of accepted applicants may be men. Classes take place every Saturday. Though the course is free, you need to chip in ₩100,000 for facility fees and pay for your own equipment.

To apply, visit the website and fill in the necessary forms (in Korean, in HWP format). E4107-2 Gwideok-ri, Hallim-eup P064/796–0604.

Seogwipo-si

Seogwipo is a city nestled in the central part of Jeju’s southern coast, flanked in part by dramatic coastal cliffs of volcanic rock. Parts of the downtown core are quite old, making for pleasant strolls through weathered alleyways. As the economic center of southern Jeju, you’ll find the area’s best collection of restaurants, shops, hotels, and nightlife venues here. It’s also the second biggest transportation hub on the island after Jeju City, which makes a good base camp for exploring the region. One particularly popular destination is the Jungmun Tourist Complex, a sprawling collection of largely luxury hotels and other leisure facilities.

s Sights

Cheonjiyeon Waterfall

WATERFALL | A popular attraction for tour groups and families during the day and a romantic stop for couples at night, the picturesque, 72-foot-high falls are surrounded by woods but still just a half-mile walk down a paved path from the parking lot, so they’re easily accessible. The area around the falls is known for its diverse plant life and migratory birds, and the water is home to marbled eel. ENamseongjung-ro, Cheonji-dong P064/733–1528 A₩2,000.

Jeongbang Waterfall

WATERFALL | The 72-foot-high Jeongbang Falls is the only waterfall in Korea that flows directly into the ocean. Though swimming is not recommended, visitors can wade out into the water; when the tide is low it’s possible to get quite close to waterfall. On the rocks near the water is an excellent spot for a picnic lunch, or at the top of the cliffs where you can see another nearby waterfall (Sojeongbang) and take in surrounding views at the observatory. Be sure to wear durable, rubber-soled shoes as the rocks can be extremely slippery. Get here early to avoid the crowds. E37 Chilsimni-ro 214 beon-gil, Seogwipo-si P064/733–1530 A₩2,000.

Jungmun Tourist Complex

RESORT | FAMILY | The Jungmun Tourist Complex was created in 1978 as a way to promote tourism to Jeju. Apparently, it worked. Today, the sprawling complex includes 10 major hotels, an international convention center, several museums, a golf course, a marine park, beaches, waterfalls, and more. Some travelers go to Jungmun and never leave. One place particularly worth visiting within the complex is the Yeomiji Botanical Garden. The indoor garden alone is home to 2,000 rare tropical and subtropical plants, while the outdoor gardens feature sections in a variety of national styles. It also has an observation tower with views of Hallasan and Jeju’s offshore islands. E38 Jungmungwangwang-ro, Seogwipo-si P064/739–1330 A₩9,000 (for Yeomiji Botanic Garden).

; Beaches

Jungmun Saekdal Beach

BEACH | FAMILY | This sandy stretch of beach in the sprawling Jungmun Tourist Complex stretches from Cheonjiyeon Waterfall to the stunning basalt cliffs of Daepo Jusangjeolli. More than one million people visit the beach a year, so it can be something of a sea of parasols in summer. However, it also gets relatively high waves, making it a favorite of Korea’s surfer community. Typhoon swells are common in summer. Even if you’re not a beach person, the nearby Jungmun Tourist Complex is full of things to see, including the impressive Yeomiji Botanical Garden. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; lifeguards; showers. Best for: swimming; surfing. E29-51 Jungmungwangwang-ro 72beon-gil, Jungmun.

r Restaurants

Yongi Sikdang

$ | KOREAN | FAMILY | This lively spot in one of downtown Seogwipo’s entertainment districts has just one thing on the menu: duruchigi (spicy stir-fried pork and vegetables), which you cook yourself on a skillet at your table. It’s cheap, tasty, and filling. Known for: stir-fried pork; BYOB policy; local charm. DAverage main: ₩8,000 E40 Cheonji-ro, Seogwipo-si P064/732–7892 CClosed Wed.

Coffee and Quick Bites

Seogwi Dawon

$ | CAFÉ | FAMILY | Located on a small, family-run organic green tea plantation on the middle slopes of Hallasan mountain, this tiny tea shop not only serves a lovely cup of tea, but also offers fine views of the rolling tea fields. The tea costs ₩5,000 per person, and it’s the only thing on the menu, but that gets you a lot of tea served with sweets made from Jeju tangerines. Known for: views of Hallasan; pleasant walks; green tea fields. DAverage main: ₩5,000 ESan 118 Sanghyo-dong, Seogwipo-si P064/733–0632.

Yudong Coffee

$ | CAFÉ | This cozy retro space near downtown Seogwipo’s historic Lee Jung-seop Street brews a serious cup of coffee, making it a favorite of local aficionados. If you prefer drip coffee, you can choose from three blends, and there are plenty of espresso-based beverages as well, including the house signature, the Songsan-dong Coffee, an especially rich cream latte. Known for: drip coffee; old-school interior; Songsan-dong Coffee. DAverage main: ₩4,800 E406-2 Taepyeong-ro, Seogwipo-si P064/733–6662.

h Hotels

Lotte Hotel Jeju

$$$$ | RESORT | FAMILY | This luxurious piece of paradise is right on the beach and in the heart of Jungmun, a trendy town packed with new restaurants and attractions. Pros: private beach lounges; great spa; variety of on-site restaurants and cuisines. Cons: expensive option; can get busy; large hotel means lots of walking. DRooms from: ₩409,195 E35 Jungmungwangwang-ro 72 beon-gil, Jungmun P064/731–1000 wwww.lottehotel.com/jeju-hotel/en.html a500 rooms XFree Breakfast.

HThe Shilla Jeju

$$$$ | RESORT | Located on a hillside in the center of Jungmun, this luxurious retreat has a longstanding reputation for being one of the island’s best hotels. Pros: beautiful views of the sea and Hallasan mountain; quiet and romantic; big outdoor pool with nightly live music performances. Cons: staff speaks little English; expensive restaurants; remote location. DRooms from: ₩483,333 E75 Jungmungwangwang-ro 72beon-gill, Jungmun P064/735–5114 wwww.shilla.net a429 rooms XFree Breakfast.

n Nightlife

Shanti

BARS | Hidden in downtown Jungmun, Shanti is a cozy hole-in-the-wall bar that blends surfer, Jamaican, and Nepali motifs. It’s an eclectic mix, but it works, with a quiet vibe that’s perfect for solo drinkers and small groups. They don’t have much of a beer selection, but they’ve got a cocktail menu a mile long. The star of the show, though, is their stash of Khukri, Nepal’s celebrated dark rum; try the Khukri highball. If you’re hungry, try the homemade chocolate mousse. Pets are welcome, too. E22-1 Jungmun-ro, Jungmun P064/738–3241.

b Shopping

Seogwipo Olle Market

MARKET | This large, indoor market has 208 stalls filled with fresh agricultural products and home goods. A little more spacious and less crowded than the bigger markets in the north, Olle Market is a relaxing shopping (and cultural) experience. The market is located on Olle Walking Trail #6, a nice place to stroll afterward. E22 Jungjeong-ro 73 beon-gil, Seogwipo-si P064/762–2925.

a Activities

SCUBA DIVING

Jeju is Korea’s best diving location, with warmer water and better visibility than other places in the country. Some of the best diving around the small islands just off Seogwipo, including Beomseom, Munseom, and Seopseom. Thanks to Jeju’s volcanic origins and its semitropical climate, divers will find a unique underwater environment that mixes tropical and temperate animal and plant life. You’ll see thick kelp forests, vibrant soft coral, and tropical fish. Some locations, such as Munseom, have chains to help you navigate without damaging the coral. Be warned, however, that the currents here can be quite strong, so going with a local guide is highly advised.

Good Diver

DIVING & SNORKELING | While you can find many dive shops in downtown Seogwipo, one of the largest is Good Diver, where you can rent fins, a mask, wet suit, BCD, regulator and dive computer for ₩40,000 per day. E41 Jungsanganseo-ro, Seogwipo-si P064/762–7677.

SURFING

Surfing is a relatively recent addition to the Korean leisure scene, entering the country in the 1990s. It’s taken root in Jeju, though, particular in Jungmun in Seogwipo and Woljeong-ri in Jeju City. While Woljeong-ri has gentle, consistent waves, Jungmun is where you come for the bigger waves, making it the preferred destination for veteran surfers. Jungmun’s surf season lasts from May to October, when the waves are the best. The best breakers occur as low tide gives way to high tide. While pro surfers may be tempted to go out in a typhoon, be advised that this is illegal in Korea.

Jeju Barrel Surfing School

SURFING | Jungmun is home to many surf shops, some of which offer English lessons. Begin with Jeju Barrel Surfing School, which teaches beginner classes at Jungmun Saekdal Beach. E60 Saekdaljungang-ro, Jungmun P064/738–0325 wjejubarrel.com AClasses from ₩60,000.

Southwestern Jeju and the Southern Islands

Southwestern Jeju is arguably the least touristed, least developed part of the island, which gives it a relaxing, old-school charm all its own. It’s also an area of rugged natural beauty, with dramatic lava domes, surreal volcanic cliffs, and pounding seas. Green tea fields and quaint fishing ports round out the landscape.

Southwestern Jeju is also the gateway to the southern islands of Gapado and Marado, remote places of scenic beauty in their own right. While nowhere in Jeju is quite “off the beaten track,” this is as close as it gets.

s Sights

Gapado Island

ISLAND | A short ferry ride from the port of Moseulpo, Gapado is a relaxing piece of old Jeju. Home to fewer than 200 people, the remote island takes just one or two hours to fully circumnavigate. It’s a lovely place, especially in spring, when much of the island is covered in fields of waist-high barley. Walk along volcanic stone-lined paths through seas of green-gold barley swaying in the ocean wind, taking in views of Jeju’s Hallasan mountain in the distance. The island hosts an annual Barley Festival every April or early May. While you’re on the island, check out the architecturally spectacular Gapado Artist in Residence (AiR), a gallery and creative space for Korean and international artists. EGapa-ri, Seogwipo-si P064/794–7130 A₩14,100 (round-trip ferry fare and park entry).

Gotjawal Provincial Park

FOREST | FAMILY | In the Jeju dialect, “gotjawal” refers to the thick forests of trees and climbing plants that cover the rocky ground on the middle slopes of Hallasan mountain. These forests are critical to Jeju’s ecosystem, as the rainwater that falls here penetrates deep into the aquifer through the highly porous volcanic rock. These forests are home to about 750 species of indigenous plants and dozens of animal species, including several endangered and protected ones such as the exceptionally rare Black-headed Snake. Several gotjawal forests have been designated protected parks, including Gotjawal Provincial Park in southwest Jeju. Five trails make their way through half a square mile of forest. The highlight is the 50-foot high observation tower with breathtaking views over the forest and surrounding landscape. There’s also a visitor’s center and a cafe. Trekking or hiking shoes are recommended, and dress shoes and sandals are forbidden. E178 Educity-ro, Andeok-myeon P064/792–6047 A₩1,000.

Marado Provincial Ocean Park

ISLAND | Eight miles off the coast of Jeju, this is the country’s southernmost point. It’s a tiny but stunning island, with steep cliffs, fantastical rock formations, lighthouses, and plenty of sea caves. You can comfortably stroll around the entire island in about an hour and a half. One scenic point is a tiny Catholic church shaped like an abalone shell. Have a bowl of jajangmyeon (Chinese noodles with black bean sauce), while you are here. Ferries leave every hour on the half hour from Moseulpo Port. The trip takes 30 minutes. Check weather conditions as the ferry closes for rough sea. ESeogwipo-si Daejeong-eup, Jeju-si P064/760–4014 A₩19,000, includes ₩1,000 park entry fee.

Osulloc Tea Museum

HISTORY MUSEUM | Opened by Korean cosmetic giant AmorePacific in 2001, Osulloc Tea Museum is an architecturally stunning complex located amid sublime scenery at the entrance of the sprawling Seogwang Green Tea Plantation. The museum’s exhibits focus on the history and traditions of Korean tea, while the popular cafe offers a wide range of tea-based beverages and desserts, including green tea ice cream and green tea roll cakes. For a real treat, though, take a 55-minute tour and green tea class at the museum’s Tea Stone annex, which embraces its setting amid a thick forest grove with transparent glass walls. Tours require reservations, and a Korean translator is a good idea. Even if you don’t enter the museum itself, you can stroll around in the photogenic green tea fields nearby and gaze upon rolling hills and volcanic cones in the distance. ESinhwayeoksa-ro, Andeok-myeon P064/794–5312 wwww.osulloc.com AFree, but tours are ₩30,000.

Sanbanggul (Sanbang Cave)

CAVE | This grotto carved into the side of Sanbangsan mountain is a significant Buddhist shrine and one of the most important and popular cultural sites on the island of Jeju. The steep staircase climb is exhausting but well worth the effort for the panoramic ocean views. Once at the top, visitors can drink from the fresh mountain spring and make a donation to the life-sized Buddha statue. ESan 16 Sagye-ri, Andeok-myeon P064/760–6321 A₩2,500.

Yongmeori Coast

NATURE SIGHT | The Yongmeori Coast is not really a beach, but a headland of phantasmagoric sandstone cliffs located where the dramatic lava dome of Sanbangsan mountain meets the sea. The cliff is actually the remnant of an old tuff ring produced by three undersea volcanic vents. Weathered by millennia of wind and waves, the highly stratified cliffs, which reach over 150 feet in height, sharply twist and turn as they make their way along the sea. Here and there, the sea has carved out coves, inlets, and caves. You can walk along the bottom of the cliffs, though entry is forbidden during inclement weather and high tide. E112-3 Sagye-ri, Seogwipo-si P064/794–2940 A₩2,000.

r Restaurants

Deokseung Sikdang

$$ | KOREAN | The water off southwest Korea is seriously rough but also rich in galchi (hairtail), and there are few better places to enjoy it than Deokseung Sikdang in the port of Moseulpo. This original branch on the waterfront has been around for decades, serving fish caught that day by the Deokseung-ho, the owner’s fishing boat. Known for: galchi jorim (braised hairtail); local flavor; mulhoe. DAverage main: ₩15,000 E66 Hamohanggu-ro, Seogwipo-si P064/794–0177 CClosed Tues.

Glagla Hawaii

$$ | HAWAIIAN | FAMILY | Right on the waterfront in the fishing port of Moseulpo, Glagla Hawaii has plenty of Hawaiian vibes, and there’s a poke bowl on the menu, to be sure. The real star of the show, however, is the fish and chips, made with a selection of fish freshly caught in the waters off Moseulpo. Known for: steamed seafood; Hawaiian and local beers; fish burgers. DAverage main: ₩18,000 E70 Hamohanggu-ro, Seogwipo-si P064/792–2737 CClosed Tues.

a Activities

Sanbangsan-Yongmeori Geo Trail

HIKING & WALKING | The cliffs and nearby Sanbangsan mountain are the centerpiece of this trekking trail on the Yongmeori Coast linking the cliffs, the lava dome, and several nearby beaches and villages. EYongmeori Coast, 112-3 Sagye-ri, Seogwipo-si.

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Front Cover: Undefined Undefined/ iStock/ Getty Images Plus. Chapter 1: Experience Seoul: ESB Professional/Shutterstock Chapter 3: Jongno-gu: Nattee Chalermtiragool/Shutterstock Chapter 4: Jung-gu: CJ Nattanai/Shutterstock Chapter 5: Dongdaemun: Tanawatpontchour /Dreamstime Chapter 6: Hongdae: Korea Tourism Organization Chapter 7: Yeouido: Keitma/Shutterstock Chapter 8: Itaewon and Yongsan-gu: OKB phuaorneer/Shutterstock Chapter 9: Gangnam: CJ Nattanai/Shutterstock Chapter 10: Jamsil and Eastern Seoul: Korea Tourism Organization/Kim Seung-rae Chapter 11: Side Trips From Seoul: Sanga Park/ Shutterstock Chapter 12: Busan: Keitma/Dreamstime Chapter 13: Side Trips From Busan: Dudlajzov/Dreamstime Chapter 14: Jeju-do: Sanga Park/Shutterstock
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About Our Writers

A native of New York and resident of Seoul, Robert Koehler has lived in Korea since 1997. He has worked as a magazine editor, writer, photographer, and translator. He wrote the Jeju and Side Trips From Seoul chapters.

Leslie Patrick Moore is a California-born writer who lived in South Korea for four years, a country she still considers her second home. She’s written about all things Korea including the K-Beauty craze, North Korean defectors, and even the top-secret surveillance South Korea uses to monitor its northern neighbor. Her writing has appeared in Travel + Leisure, AFAR, Robb Report, The Telegraph, Marie Claire, CNN Travel, and many in-flight magazines including American Airlines and United Airlines. She lives in Norwich, England with her husband (whom she met in South Korea) and her three fur children. Leslie wrote the Experience, Travel Smart, Dongdaemun, and Yeouido chapters. Find out more on her website at www.lesliepatrick.com.

Originally hailing from the Pacific Northwest, Chris Tharp has called South Korea home for almost two decades now. He’s a regular contributor to National Geographic Traveller (UK), Conde Nast Traveler, as well as Asia Times, and his award-winning writing has also appeared in enRoute Magazine, Matador Travel, Green Mountains Review, and the San Diego Reader. He’s also the author of two books: Dispatches from the Peninsula and The Worst Motorcycle in Laos, both published by Signal 8 Press. He lives in the city of Busan with his wife and a house of animals. Chris wrote the Busan, Side Trips From Busan, Jamsil, and Gangnam chapters.

Hahna Yoon is a Seoul-based freelance writer whose work has appeared in The New York Times, the Guardian, BBC, and more. Hahna wrote the Jongno-gu, Jung-gu, Hongdae, and Itaewon/Yongsan-gu chapters of this guide.

Freelance writer Eileen Cho wrote the Hyehwa-dong section of the Jongno-gu chapter.

Byungsuk “Suki” Son is a Seoul-based translator who provided translations for “Helpful Korean Phrases” in Travel Smart.