Fodor's Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North
Author: Fodor's
Date: 2011-04-01 06:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Travel
Description: Get inspired and plan your next trip with Fodor's ebook travel guide to Normandy, Brittany, and the Best of Northern France (including Paris, Alsace-Lorraine, and Champagne Country, with highlights in between). Intelligent Planning: Discover all of the essential, up-to-date travel insights you expect in a Fodor's guide, including Fodor's Choice dining and lodging, top experiences and attractions, and detailed planning advice. Easy Navigation for E-Readers: Whether you're reading this ebook from start to finish or jumping from chapter to chapter as you develop your itinerary, Fodor's makes it e
Publisher: Fodor's Travel Publications
Rights: Copyright © 2011 by Fodor’s Travel

Images of Normandy, Brittany, & The Best of the North With Paris

Normandy, Brittany, & The Best of the North With Paris Maps

Experience Normandy, Brittany, & the Best of the North

Normandy

Brittany

Champagne Country

Alsace-Lorraine

Paris

Travel Smart France

Copyright

Main Table of Contents

Normandy, Brittany, & the Best of the North

Upper Normandy

Rouen

Honfleur To Mont-St-Michel

Brittany's Atlantic Coast: West

Brittany's Atlantic Coast: East

Nantes

Champagne

Reims

The Cathedral Cities

Lorraine

Nancy

Alsace

Strasbourg

Paris Neighborhoods

From Notre-Dame to the Place de la Concorde

From The Eiffel Tower to The Arc De Triumph

The Faubourg St-Honoré and Les Halles

Les Grands Boulevards

Le Marais and the Bastille

The Ile St-Louis and the Quarter Latin

From Orsay to St-Germain-des-Prés

Montmartre

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Main Table of Contents

France Today

What’s Where

Planner

Getting Around

Top Attractions

Top Experiences

Quintessential France

Lodging Primer

When to Go

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It may be a cliché to say the French fret over their place in the world, but they do. Faced with the ever-dominant Anglo-American axis and hobbled by the global economic crisis, the French are rallying to protect their institutions, their language and, above all, la vie française—their treasured lifestyle. Still, polls show the French are optimistic about the future—and there’s plenty of good news.

Tourism is thriving, with France maintaining its rank as the world’s top tourist destination, with more than 80 million visitors each year. The French remain leaders in science and technology. France is the world’s leading producer of luxury goods, and fashion remains the nation’s birthright.

NO LONGER L’AMÉRICAIN

Once nicknamed L’Américain for his U.S.-loving ways, French President Nicolas Sarkozy isn’t exactly waving the Stars and Stripes these days. Miffed that President Barack Obama has repeatedly snubbed his overtures for a close and personal relationship, Sarkozy has taken to dissing his American counterpart in private as wet behind the ears. Obama isn’t the only world leader who has kept Sarkozy at arm’s length. The irreverent “Sarko” has watched as European heads of state have refused to go along with the brash Frenchman’s view of himself as their self-proclaimed leader.

The price at home has been steep, moreover, with the President’s popularity rating sinking steadily. In the face of noisy street protests, Sarkozy has backed off from many of his promised reforms. With the first whispers of the financial crisis came a hasty retreat from the free-market restructuring Sarkozy had trumpeted when he was elected in 2007. These days, in classic Gallic fashion, he has enjoyed tweaking his “friends” across the pond, even lecturing about the need to “remoralize capitalism.”

With an eye toward reelection in 2012, however, Sarkozy was looking to regain the upper hand. Among the feathers in his cap is a ground-breaking carbon tax on fossil fuels hailed by environmentalists. Once-sacred Sunday shopping rules have been eased, no small feat given France’s boisterous unions.

And Sarkozy’s legacy project Le Grand Paris—a €21-billion plan to remake Paris into an economic and cultural mega-capital—was creeping ahead as construction was set to begin in early 2013 on key components, including an 80-mi-long automatic subway system ringing Paris.

CAPTIVATED BY CARLA

Lucky for Sarkozy his best asset may be his popular wife, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy—the supermodel-turned-singer-turned–demure First Dame, whose every move is slavishly tracked by French magazines. The former bad girl has made headlines as much for her turns in the spotlight (performing for Nelson Mandela; signing on for a part in a Woody Allen film) as for her philanthropy (she’s an anti-AIDS ambassador; she has her own charitable foundation). The Italian-born Carla B holds considerable influence over her lovesick husband, and isn’t afraid to wield it.

SIZING UP

Despite a diet dripping in butter and fat, the French are among the world’s thinnest people, with one of the world’s longest life expectancies to boot. The so-called “French paradox” may help keep them skinny as éclairs, but that hasn’t stopped the French from obsessing about how to stay that way.

Warning bells were sounded, furthermore, after studies showed obesity rates creeping up. French health experts declared war against junk food. Ads for everything from candy to McDonald’s cheeseburgers come with warnings to indulge modestly. Fizzy sodas are not allowed, and butter on bread is frowned upon (though cheese is not).

Even the Elysée Palace has gotten into the act. Avid jogging and a crash diet are said to be behind the slimmed-down figure of Nicolas Sarkozy. Much to the dismay of guests, even the Elysée menu has been pared down to Weight Watchers proportions.

THE FRENCH MODEL RECONSIDERED

And the winner of the global financial crisis was … France? Not quite. But long criticized for maintaining a socialist economy out of step with the modern world, France found itself on the rare receiving end of praise for an economic model that helped the country weather the worldwide downturn more gently than its Anglo-American rivals. France-bashers were caught short as the economy they love to scorn enjoyed a slightly higher rate of growth coming out of the recession than other developed countries. With banks tightly regulated, French homeowners were spared an equivalent of the U.S. subprime mortgage crisis. Experts credited France for its long-term formula of economic fairness, with a less-pronounced gap between rich and poor than in other countries. Education is inexpensive; and the health care system, often called the world’s best, is available to all. President Sarkozy even floated the idea, however briefly, of adopting a happiness index to replace traditional measures of progress, taking into account quality of life factors.

UNDER SIEGE: THE FRENCH CAFÉ

The 2007 anti-smoking law came as a breath of fresh air in France, making meals in cheek-to-jowl bistros far more enjoyable for those who prefer their foie gras without their neighbor’s Gaulois an accompaniment. Since the rigorously observed law passed, cigarette sales have plunged to all-time lows in France, proof the French could live without their clopes. One tragic victim, however, has been that icon of French society—the neighborhood café. Many French workers who would pop in for a smoke with their morning petit café and their evening petit verre of wine simply stopped coming. Business was already declining, as modern life had chipped away at café culture, with fewer young people having the time or desire to drink during the day. Predictions that business would rebound as smokers got used to lighting up outside have not been borne out. With an average of two cafés closing each day in France, café denizens worry about the end of an era.

PARIS: THE CITY THAT … SLEEPS?

Fall-out from the smoking ban has had another effect: antagonizing ordinary French trying to get a good night’s sleep. With smokers sent outside to light up, many neighbors of nightclubs have groused that the new sidewalk culture is keeping them awake at night. The new battle lines have annoyed neighbors who use eggs, buckets of water, and the odd garden hose to rout merry-makers. Authorities have now slapped bars with heavy fines and shuttering repeat offenders. The situation has become so bad that music promoters launched a campaign to combat the transformation of the City of Light into what Le Monde called Europe’s “capital of boredom”!

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Normandy. Sculpted with cliff-lined coasts, Normandy has been home to saints and sculptors, with a dramatic past marked by Mont-St-Michel’s majestic abbey, Rouen’s towering cathedral, and the D-Day beaches.

Brittany. A long arm of rocky land stretching into the Atlantic, Brittany is a place unto itself, with its own language and time-defying towns such as Gauguin’s Pont-Aven and the pirate haven of St-Malo.

Champagne Country. The capital of bubbly is Reims, set near four great Gothic cathedrals.

Alsace-Lorraine. Although this region bordered by the Rhine often looks German and sounds German, its main sights—18th-century Nancy, medieval Strasbourg, and the lovely Route du Vin—remain proudly French.

Paris. A quayside vista that takes in the Seine, a passing boat, Notre-Dame, the Eiffel Tower, and mansard roofs all in one generous sweep is enough to convince you that Paris is indeed the most beautiful city on Earth.

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When to Go | Transportation Basics | Hours | Tips on Eating and Staying | Fête-ing It Up

WHEN TO GO

Summer is the most popular (and expensive) season. July in Paris is crowded and hot, although the Paris Plage, the “beach” on the banks of the Seine, is very popular with locals and tourists alike.

The Riviera sparkles in August—but the notorious embouteillages (traffic jams) on the drive south from Paris can make you wish you stayed home.

Famously fickle weather means you never know what to expect in Normandy and Brittany, where picture-postcard villages and languorous sandy beaches are never jam-packed.

September is gorgeous, with temperate weather, saner airfares, and cultural events scheduled specifically for the return from summer vacation, an institution that even has its own name: la rentrée.

Another good time to visit is in late spring, just before the masses arrive, when the sun sets after 9 PM and cafés are abuzz.

Unless you’re skiing in the Alps, winter is the least appealing time to come, though it’s the best time to find less expensive airfares and hotel deals—and escape the crowds.

TRANSPORTATION BASICS

There are two major gateway airports to France just outside the capital: Orly, 16 km (10 mi) south of Paris, and Charles de Gaulle, 26 km (16 mi) northeast of the city. At Charles de Gaulle, also known as Roissy, there’s a TGV (train à grande vitesse) station at Terminal 2, where you can connect to high-speed trains going all over the country.

Once in France, the best way to travel is by train, either high-speed TGV or regional train. A France Rail Pass allows three days of unlimited train travel in a one-month period. With train service efficient and enjoyable, long-distance bus service is rarely used, though there are some regional buses that cover areas where train service is spotty.

If you’re traveling by car, there are excellent links between Paris and most French cities, but poor ones between the provinces. For the fastest route between two points, look for roads marked A for autoroute. A péage (toll) must be paid on most expressways: the rate varies, but can be steep. Note that gas prices are also steep, upward of €1.30 a liter, or about $6.50 a gallon.

Although renting a car is about twice as expensive as in the United States, it’s the best way to see remote corners of the lovely French countryside. To get the best rate, book a rental car at home, and well in advance if you’re planning a trip in summer and early fall. If you want automatic transmission, which is more expensive, be sure to ask for it when you reserve.

Here’s a good tip: If you’re traveling from Paris, a practical option is to take the TGV to another large city, such as Avignon or Nice, and rent a car there.

HOURS

In Paris and larger cities, store hours are generally 10 AM to 7:30 PM; smaller shops may open later. Elsewhere, expect stores to close in the afternoon, usually 2–4. Museums are closed one day a week, often Tuesday. As a general rule, shops close on Sunday, though many food stores are open in the morning.

TIPS ON EATING AND STAYING

Restaurants follow French mealtimes, serving lunch from noon to 2 or 2:30 and dinner from 7:30 or 8 on. Some cafés in larger cities serve food all day long. Always reserve a table for dinner, as top restaurants book up months in advance. You must ask for the check (it’s considered rude to bring it unbidden) except in cafés, where a register slip often comes with your order. Gratuities (servis) are included in the bill, but leave some small change on the table: a few cents for drinks, €1 for lunch, or €3 at dinner. You can leave more at a top restaurant, but note that more than 10% is considered extremely generous.

To save money on food, take advantage of France’s wonderful outdoor markets and chain supermarkets. Just about every town has its own market once or a couple times a week. Ask the people at the front desk of wherever you’re staying to find out when market days are. For supermarkets, the largest chain is Monoprix.

Some of the bigger stores have cafés where you can sit down and eat whatever you buy, as well as mini department stores that sell everything from clothing to children’s toys to toiletries. French cities generally have good hotel options at decent prices. There are several options in Paris, including furnished apartments, at all price levels.

In the countryside, seek out chambres d’hôtes (bed-and-breakfasts), which can mean anything from a modest room in a host’s home to a grand suite in a Norman château or Provençal farmhouse. Or rent a gîte rural, a furnished apartment, often on a farm or a larger property.

FÊTE-ING IT UP

Spring. Spot your favorite star at the Cannes Film Festival in May (www.festival-cannes.fr). The French Open kicks off the last week of May in Paris (www.rolandgarros.com).

Love grand cru? Head to Bordeaux for the wine festival in late June (www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com).

Summer. Avignon sparkles in July during the monthlong theater and arts festival (www.festival-avignon.com). French cities and towns celebrate le 14 juillet (July 14, Bastille Day), marking the start of the French Revolution (www.14-juillet.cityvox.com).

The popular Paris Plage transforms the Seine’s banks into a “beach” in mid-July with palm trees, sand, and lounge chairs (www.paris.fr).

Fall. Tour France’s most beautiful buildings on the Journée du Patrimoine (Patrimony Day), usually the third Sunday in September (www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr).

Paris has cultural events throughout September for la rentrée (the return) from summer vacation (www.paris.fr).

Winter. The Carnaval de Nice rocks Lent for three weeks in February (www.nicecarnaval.com). Strasbourg’s famous Marchés de Noël (Christmas Markets) runs from late November to early January (www.noel-strasbourg.com).

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Air Travel | Bus Travel | Car Travel | Train Travel

AIR TRAVEL

With a land-mass about 4/5 that of Texas, France presents its own set of transporation challenges when confronting the big question: What’s the best way to get around? Fact is, the quickest and often least expensive option—thanks to budget airlines and competitive rates on Air France—is flying. You can fly in one hour from Paris into Nice Airport (plus 15 minutes by bus into town) on easyJet from Orly Airport (15 minutes south of Paris) from about €40 one-way (without checked bags). But factor in the extra hour at the airport for security, the baggage restrictions, and out-of-town location of airports—budget lines use smaller airports far from city centers. An Air France flight from Paris Orly to Marseille costs €125 while a RyanAir flight starts at just €30 but flies from Beauvais Airport (an hour north of Paris by bus) plus plenty of extra fees. But flying is often the best option if you have little luggage, less time, and travel to major cities.

BUS TRAVEL

Because France has invested so dearly in its highly organized national rail network and well-connected highway system, nationwide bus service simply doesn’t exist.

Eurolines offers only international routes, so you can get in or out of the country, but there are no routes connecting the big cities within France.

Happily, domestic bus travel is managed regionally, usually serving small rural communities or replacing SNCF train routes that are no longer commercially viable.

These bus routes, however, tend to be slow, with confusing schedules posted online (and rarely in English). Still, they can often be a cheap and direct way to travel short distances.

The Getting Around section at the start of each of our chapters has handy local information about useful bus routes.

Remember that it is always useful to visit the local tourism office or the central bus depot for schedules and tickets.

CAR TRAVEL

While the French train network is quite vast, smaller towns—especially in harder-to-reach mountainous regions—may have only limited schedules. And since many route hubs are in major cities such as Paris, there’s often a lack of direct routes in between these smaller towns, requiring a circuitous trajectory to cover a relatively short distance. This isn’t a big deal for visitors with plenty of extra time who are flexible in their travel plans.

But if you’re seeking the maximum amount of freedom to explore France off the beaten path, then a rental car could be your best option.

France’s highways, or autoroutes (A), are well maintained, and generally traffic-free outside certain holidays and metropolitan areas during rush hour, but with so much natural beauty, charming villages and interesting sights along the way, we would recommend sticking to the national trunk roads, or Routes Nationales (RN), which allow you to easily stop to see local site, pick up some fresh produce at a farm, or pull over for a picnic at a lakeside park.

Of course, driving in France requires a valid license from your home country, a bit of talent with a map (as a backup to any GPS system), and enough knowledge about the local road rules to stay out of trouble.

While there are many pluses to driving a car, there are important minuses. One of the biggest expenses of your trip can wind up being the gasoline, which has been hovering around €1.35/liter (or €5.08 gallon) at this writing. In addition, signage in France can be spotty—we’ve heard plenty of horror stories about half-hour trips turning into two-hour ordeals.

Finally, there is the obstacle-course that is parking, with travelers to French cities having to run the gauntlet of meters, parking-ticket machines, parking cards (cartes de stationnements), chaotic rush-hour traffic, and the eternal search for an overnight garage.

If you’re determined to drive, however, see our Travel Smart chapter for more tips for renting and driving a car in France.

TRAIN TRAVEL

The next best thing to flying, and sometimes more convenient, is by France’s efficient railways, from regional trains connecting small towns and villages all over the country to the high-speed TGVs serving major cities.

The best thing about the trains is that the stations are usually right in the center of town, and in the case of Paris, connected to the metro. This means that backpackers can find a hotel within walking distance of the train station without worrying about long taxi rides to and from the airport.

Traveling by train also eliminates long security checks and excess baggage fees, and you get to enjoy the scenery as you travel.

Managed by the SNCF, almost every corner of France can be reached by train, including about 60 cities by TGV, and thousands more under the regional rail lines including Téoz (Paris, Bordeaux, Nice, Perpignan, and Clermont-Ferrand), the Lunéa sleeper trains (which have 1st class, 2nd class, and reclining seat options starting at €17), iDTGV theme trains (choose “zen,” “games,” or “nightclub” themed atmospheres on 20 routes), and the “TER” (Transport Express Régional) medium-distance trains serving the different French regions.

For instance, the Ile-de-France départment surrounding Paris is served by the Transilien network, which links to the suburban Paris commuter rail known as the “RER” (Réseau Express Régional) and the Paris Métropolitan, or Métro.

Aside from these Paris networks, which are part of the Parisian Transportation Authority known as the “RATP” (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens), all trains in France are managed by the French National Railway, or “SNCF” (Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Français).

This makes it a lot easier for travelers to find the best ticket whether it’s by TGV or by regional TER, either by the official French site (www.voyages-sncf.com) or via Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com), which lets you search in your home country’s language and currency before you arrive in France.

If you want to remain flexible even after you’ve arrived in France, sign up for their “Anywhere Anytime France e-tickets” for the convenience of ordering your tickets online and printing them at any train station up to an hour before departure time.

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LOUVRE, PARIS

Home to art’s most photogenic beauties—the Venus de Milo, the Winged Victory, and the Mona Lisa—this is not only the largest palace in France but also the most important museum in the world.

MONT-ST-MICHEL, NORMANDY

Once seen, never forgotten, this Romanesque abbey rises from its bay like a shimmering apparition, becoming an island at high tide. French and English fought to dominate the “rock” until the 13th century, when it was crowned with a splendid Gothic church.

STRASBOURG, ALSACE-LORRAINE

The cosmopolitan seat of Europe’s Parliament, this fascinating mix of half-timber houses and modern glass buildings was fought over by France and Germany—a battle that resulted in a rich intertwining of cultures.

UNIDENTICAL TWINS, BRITTANY

A ferry ride across the Rance River links two delightfully contrasting towns: ancient, once pirate-ridden St-Malo and grand, genteel, Edwardian Dinard.

CHAMPAGNE, CHAMPAGNE COUNTRY

Drink it, see the vineyards, visit the cavernous chalk cellars where bottles are stored by the million.

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How will you experience France? Will you wile away the hours in the shops and cafés of Paris? Will you dine at the temples of gastronomy in Lyon? Will you play feudal lord among the châteaux of the Loire Valley? Or will you simply throw away your map and chance upon nestled-away villages of the Côte d’Azur or fairy-tale hamlets of the Dordogne? These suggestions, and the following, await you as memorable experiences for your next trip to France.

WALK LIKE A PARISIAN

Paris was made for wandering, and the French have coined a lovely word for a person who strolls, usually without a destination in mind: le flâneur. In Paris, no matter how aimlessly you wander, chances are you’ll end up somewhere magical. Why not first head to the most beautiful spot on the Left Bank: the Cour du Commerce St-André?

GO GLAM IN PARIS

Break out your bling in this capital of luxury with a stroll down the Avenue Montaigne to window-shop—the French call it lèche-vitrine (or “licking the windows”)—from Chanel to Céline. Then do some real feasting at Paris’s most legendary restaurant, Le Grand Vefour (lunch main courses are around 100 euros).

RENDEZVOUS WITH THE PHANTOM

Want to feel like a Rothschild for no money at all? Promenade the fabulously opulent lobby and theater of the 19th-century Palais Garnier (www.opera-de-paris.fr)—haunt of the Phantom and Degas’s immortal dancers—daily 10 to 4:30 for free, or get tickets for an evening performance.

PIQUE-NIQUE AT PLACE DES VOSGES

No restaurant can beat the “décor” of Paris’s most beautiful square, the 17th-century Place des Vosges, so pull up a bench and enjoy your own foodie fixings. Get them at the nearby Marché d’Aligre market, off Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine. It beats those drab supermarchés!

PLAN AN ASCENT ON HEAVEN AT MONT-ST-MICHEL

Keep the faith with a climb to the top and get a God’s View of this fabled Benedictine abbey (mont-saint-michel.monuments-nationaux.fr), whose fortified medieval village is the crowning glory of the Normandy coastline.

RATE THE BEST OF ALSACE’S WÜRSTS

As you head down Alsace’s famous Wine Road, Hansel and Gretel villages pop up every few miles, and each have winstubs that cook up delicious dishes of choucroute garnie. The inns in Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé (www.ribeauville-riquewihr.com) are supposed to serve the best.

POP YOUR CORK ALONG THE CHAMPAGNE ROAD

The famous Route du Champagne (www.tourisme-en-champagne.com) leads fans of the famous bubbly to the prestigious Champagne houses of Epernay and Reims (including Mumm and Taittinger) plus smaller, family-run estates for tours and tastings.

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If you want to get a sense of contemporary French culture, and indulge in some of its pleasures, start by familiarizing yourself with the rituals of daily life. These are a few highlights—things you can take part in with relative ease.

CAFÉ SOCIETY

Along with air, water, and wine, the café remains one of the basic necessities of life in France. You may prefer a posh perch at a renowned Paris spot such as the Deux Magots on Boulevard St-Germain or opt for a tiny café du coin (corner café) in Lyon or Marseilles, where you can have a quick cup of coffee at the counter. Those on Paris’s major boulevards (such as Boulevard St-Michel and the Champs-Élysées) will almost always be the most expensive and the least interesting.

In effect, the more modest establishments (look for nonchalant locals) are the places to really get a feeling for French café culture.

And we do mean culture—not only the practical rituals of the experience (perusing the posted menu, choosing a table, unwrapping your sugar cube) but an intellectual spur as well.

You’ll see businessmen, students, and pensive types pulling out notebooks for intent scribblings. In fact, some Paris landmarks like the Café de Flore host readings, while several years ago a trend for cafés philos (philosophy cafés) took off.

And there’s always the frisson of history available at places like La Closerie des Lilas, where an expensive drink allows you to rest your derrière on the spots once favored by Baudelaire and Apollinaire.

Finally, there’s people-watching, which goes hand in glove with the café lifestyle—what better excuse to linger over your café crème or Lillet? So get ready to settle in, sip your pastis, and pretend your travel notebook is a Hemingway story in the making.

STREET MARKETS

Browsing through the street markets and marchés couverts (covered markets) of France is enough to make you regret all the tempting restaurants around.

But even though their seafood, free-range poultry, olives, and produce cry out to be gathered in a basket and cooked in their purest forms, you can also enjoy them as a simple visual feast.

Over at flea and brocante (collectibles) markets, food plays second fiddle. With any luck, you’ll find a little 18th-century engraving that makes your heart go trottinant.

BISTROS AND BRASSERIES

The choice of restaurants in France is a feast in itself. Of course, at least once during your trip you’ll want to indulge in a luxurious meal at a great haute-cuisine restaurant—but there’s no need to get knee-deep in white truffles at Paris’s Alain Ducasse to savor the France the French eat. For you can discover the most delicious French-Women-Don’t-Get-Fat food with a quick visit to a city neighborhood bistro.

History tells us that bistros served the world’s first fast food—after the fall of Napoléon, the Russian soldiers who occupied Paris were known to cry bistro (“quickly” in Russian) when ordering.

Here, at zinc-top tables, you’ll find the great delights of cuisine traditionelle, like grand-mère’s lamb with white beans.

Today the bistro boom has meant that many are designer-decorated and packed with trendsetters.

If you’re lucky, the food will be as witty and colorful as the clientele.

Brasseries, with few exceptions, remain unchanged—great bustling places with white-aproned waiters and hearty, mainly Alsatian, food, such as pork-based dishes, choucroute (sauerkraut), and beer (“brasserie” also means brewery).

Bon appétit!

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If your France fantasy involves staying in a historic hotel with the smell of fresh-baked croissants gently rousing you in the morning, here’s some good news: you need not be Ritz-rich to realize it. Throughout the country, you’ll find stylish lodging options—from charming hotels and intimate B&Bs to regal apartments and grand country houses—in all price ranges.

HOTELS

Rates are always by room, not per person. Sometimes a hotel in a certain price category will have a few less-expensive rooms; it’s worth asking about. In the off-season—usually November to Easter (except for southern France)—tariffs may be lower. Always inquire about promotional specials and weekend deals. Rates must be posted in all rooms, with extra charges clearly indicated.

Hotel rooms have telephones, television, and private bath unless otherwise noted. When making your reservation, state your preference for shower (douche) or tub (baignoire)—the latter always costs more. Also when booking, ask for a grand lit if you want a double bed.

APARTMENT AND HOUSE RENTALS

If you want more spacious accommodations with cooking facilities, consider a furnished rental. These can save you money, especially if you’re traveling with a group.

Renting a gîte rural—furnished house in the country—for a week or month can also save you money. Gîtes are nearly always maintained by on-site owners, who greet you on your arrival and provide information on groceries, doctors, and nearby attractions.

The national rental network, the Fédération Nationale des Gîtes de France, rents all types of accommodations rated by ears of corn (from one to four) based on comfort and quality criteria.

You can find listings for fabulous renovated farmhouses with swimming pools or simple cottages in the heart of wine country. Besides country houses, Gîtes de France has listings for B&Bs, lodges, hostels, and campsites.

BED-AND-BREAKFASTS

Chambres d’hôtes (bed-and-breakfasts) range from simple lodgings with breakfast in a humble home to beautiful rooms in a château with gourmet food. Chambres d’hôtes are most common in rural France, though they are becoming more popular in Paris and other major cities.

Check with local tourist offices or private reservation agencies like Hôtes Qualité Paris. Often table d’hôte dinners (meals cooked by and eaten with the owners) can be arranged for a nominal fee.

Note that your hosts at B&Bs, unlike those at hotels, are more likely to speak only French.

HOSTELS

Hostels offer bare-bones lodging at low, low prices—often in shared dorm rooms with shared baths—to people of all ages, though the primary market is students. Most hostels serve breakfast; dinner and/or shared cooking facilities may also be available.

In some hostels you aren’t allowed to be in your room during the day, and there may be a curfew at night. Nevertheless, hostels provide a sense of community, with public rooms where travelers often gather to share stories.

For resources and booking information, see the Travel Smart chapter.

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Keep in mind that French schoolchildren have five holidays a year: one week at the end of October, two weeks at Christmas, two weeks in February, two weeks in April, and the two full months of July and August. During these times travel in France is truly at its peak season, which means that prices are higher, highways are busier, the queues for museums are long, and transportation is at its most expensive. Your best bet for quality and calm is to travel off-season. June and September are the best months to be in France, as both are free of the midsummer crowds. Try to avoid the second half of July and all of August, when almost everyone in France goes on vacation. July and August in southern France can be stifling. Paris can be stuffy and uncomfortable in August. Many restaurants, theaters, and small shops close, but enough stay open these days to make a low-key, unhurried visit a pleasure. Anytime between March and November will offer you a good chance to soak up the sun on the Côte d’Azur. If Paris and the Loire are among your priorities, remember that the weather is unappealing before Easter. If you’re dreaming of Paris in the springtime, May is your best bet, not rainy April. But the capital remains a joy during midwinter, with plenty of things to see and do.

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Main Table of Contents

Introducing Normandy

Normandy Planner

Getting Around

Upper Normandy

Honfleur to Mont-St-Michel

Normandy In Depth

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented

Updated by Jennifer Ladonne

The maritime Garden of Eden called Normandy sprawls out over France’s northwestern corner in a shape roughly resembling a segment of a jigsaw puzzle. Due to its geographic position, this region is blessed with a stunning natural beauty, one that once inspired Maupassant and Monet. Little wonder today’s sightseers pack into colorful Rouen, seaside Honfleur, and magnificent and magical Mont-St-Michel.

Happily, it is easy to escape all those travelers. Simply lose yourself along Normandy’s spectacular cliff-lined coast and in the green spaces inland, where the closest thing to a crowd is a farmer with his herd of brown-and-white cows. But whatever road you turn down the region’s time-stained history is there to enchant and fascinate. Say the name “Normandy,” and which Channel-side scenario comes to mind?

Are you reminded of the dramatic silhouette of Mont-St-Michel looming above the tidal flats, its cobbles echoing with the footfalls of medieval scholars? Or do you think of iron-gray convoys massing silently at dawn, lowering tailgates to pour troops of young Allied infantrymen into the line of German machine-gun fire? At Omaha Beach you may marvel at the odds faced by the handful of soldiers who in June 1944 were able to rise above the waterfront carnage to capture the cliff-top battery, paving the way for the Allies’ reconquest of Europe.

Perhaps you think of Joan of Arc—imprisoned by the English yet burned at the Rouen stake by the Church she believed in? In a modern church you may light a candle on the very spot where, in 1431, the Maiden Warrior sizzled into history at the hands of panicky politicians and time-serving clerics: a dark deed that marked a turning point in the Hundred Years’ War. The destinies of England and Normandy have been intertwined ever since William, Duke of Normandy, insisted that King Edward the Confessor had promised him the succession to the English crown. When a royal council instead anointed the Anglo-Saxon Harold Godwinsson, the irate William stormed across the Channel with 7,000 well-equipped archers, well-mounted knights, and well-paid Frankish mercenaries. They landed at Pevensey Bay on September 28, 1066, and two weeks later, conquered at Hastings.

There followed nearly 400 years of Norman sovereignty in England. For generations England and Normandie (as the French spell it) blurred, merged, and diverged. Today you can still feel the strong flow of English culture over the Channel, from the Deauville horse races frequented by high-born ladies in gloves, to silver spoons mounded high with teatime cream; from the bowfront, slope-roof shops along the harbor at Honfleur to the black-and-white row houses of Rouen, which would seem just as much at home in the setting of David Copperfield as they are in Madame Bovary.

The French divide Normandy into two: Haute-Normandie and Basse-Normandie. Upper (Haute) Normandy is delineated by the Seine as it meanders northwest from Ile-de-France between chalky cliffs and verdant hills to Rouen—the region’s cultural and commercial capital—and on to the port of Le Havre. Pebbly beaches and even more impressive chalk cliffs line the Côte d’Alabâtre (Alabaster Coast) from Le Havre to Dieppe. Lower (Basse) Normandy encompasses the sandy Côte Fleurie (Flower Coast), stretching from the resort towns of Trouville and Deauville to the D-Day landing beaches and the Cotentin Peninsula, jutting out into the English Channel. After the World War II D-Day landings, some of the fiercest fighting took place around Caen and Bayeux, as many monuments and memorials testify. Rising to the west is the fabled Mont-St-Michel. Our tour starts in Rouen, then heads north to the Channel Coast, which we follow all the way from Honfleur to Mont-St-Michel.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Mont-St-Michel: The spire-top silhouette of this mighty offshore mound, dubbed the Marvel of the Occident, is one of the greatest sights in Europe. Get there at high tide, when the water races across the endless sands.

Bayeux: Come not just for the splendor of the tapestry telling how William conquered England, but for untouched medieval buildings and the beefy, bonnet-top cathedral.

Honfleur: From France’s prettiest harbor, lined with beam-fronted houses, you can head to the ravishing wooden church of Ste-Catherine.

Rouen: Sanctified by the memory of Jeanne d’Arc, hallowed by its towering Gothic cathedral (immortalized by Monet), and lined with medieval half-timber houses, Rouen makes a great gateway city to Normandy.

D-Day Beaches: From rocky Omaha to pancake-flat Utah, muse on the stirring deeds of World War II.

GETTING ORIENTED

The Seine Valley divides Normandy in two as it flows northwest from Paris through Rouen and into the English Channel at Le Havre. To the north lies Upper Normandy and a spectacular coastline lined with towering chalk cliffs called the Côte d’Alabâtre, or Alabaster Coast. West of the Seine lies Lower Normandy, full of lush meadows and lined with the sandy beaches of the Côte Fleurie, or Flower Coast. (These are the same beaches where the Allies landed on D-Day.) Far to the west, at the foot of the sparsely populated Cotentin Peninsula, the offshore Mont-St-Michel patrols one of the continent’s biggest bays.

Upper Normandy. Fascinating portal city to Normandy, Rouen still contains—despite World War II’s battering—such an overwhelming number of lovely churches, chapels, towers, fountains, and old cross-beam houses that many take two full days to enjoy this commercial and cultural hub. Heading some 60 km (35 mi) northwest to the Channel shore, the Côte d’Alabâtre beckons, named for the white cliffs that stretch north, including the spectacular rock formations often painted by Monet at Étretat. Nearby seaside Fécamp regales with its noted Benedictine palace and distillery.+

Honfleur to Mont-St-Michel. Basse (or Lower) Normandie begins with the sandy Côte Fleurie (Flower Coast), announced by seaside Honfleur, an artist’s paradise full of half-timber houses. Just south, Rothschilds by the Rolls arrive in season at the Belle Époque seaside resorts of Trouville and Deauville—both beautiful if hard on the pocket. Modern and student-filled Caen is famed for its two gigantic abbey churches, one begun by William the Conqueror, who is immortalized in nearby Bayeux’s legendary tapestry. This town makes a great base to explore the somber D-Day sites along Utah and Omaha beaches; bus tours and moving memorials make a fitting prelude for a drive across Normandy’s Cotentin Peninsula to Mont-St-Michel, whose tiny island is crowned by one of the most beautiful Gothic abbeys in France.

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Bus Tours | Making the Most of Your Time | Transportation Basics | Touring the D-Day Beaches | Finding a Place to Stay | Visitor Information

BUS TOURS

Cityrama and Paris-Vision run full-day bus excursions from Paris to Mont-St-Michel for €158, meals and admission included.

This is definitely not for the faint of heart—buses leave Paris at 6:45 or 7:15 AM and return around 10:30 PM.

In Caen, the Mémorial organizes four-hour English-language daily minibus tours of the D-Day landing beaches; the cost is €75, including entrance fees.

Normandy Sightseeing Tours runs a number of trips to the D-Day beaches and Mont-St-Michel. One of their full-day excursions to the D-Day beaches (8:30–6) costs €80.

Cityrama (4 pl. des Pyramides, | 75001 | Paris | 01–44–55–61–00 | www.cityrama.fr).

Mémorial (02–31–06–06–44 | www.memorial.fr).

Normandy Sightseeing Tours (618 rte. du Lavoir, | 14400Mosles | 02–31–51–70–52 | www.normandywebguide.com).

Paris-Vision (214 rue de Rivoli, | 75001 | Paris | 01–42–60–30–01 | www.parisvision.com).

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

Normandy is a big region with lots to see. If you have 10 days or so you can do it justice. If not, you’ll need to prioritize.

In search of natural beauty? Head to the coastline north of Le Havre. Prefer sea and sand? Beat it to the beaches west of Trouville.

Like city life? You’ll love pretty Rouen. Are you a history buff? Base yourself in Caen to tour the D-Day beaches.

Can’t get enough of churches and cathedrals? You can go pretty much anywhere, but don’t miss Bayeux, Rouen, or Mont-St-Michel. (The last is a bit isolated, so you might want to get there directly from Paris, or at the start or end of a tour of Brittany.)

TRANSPORTATION BASICS

Although this is one of the few areas of France with no high-speed rail service—perhaps because it’s so close to Paris, or because it’s not on a lucrative route to a neighboring country—Normandy’s regional rail network is surprisingly good, meaning that most towns can be reached by train.

Rouen is the hub for Upper Normandy, Caen for Lower Normandy. Unless you’re driving, you’ll need a bus to reach the coastal resorts like Étretat, Honfleur, and Houlgate.

For Mont-St-Michel, a combination of train and bus is required.

To visit the D-Day beaches, a guided minibus tour, leaving from Caen or Bayeux, is your best bet.

The A13 expressway is the gateway from Paris, running northwest to Rouen and then to Caen. From here the A84 takes you almost all the way to Mont-St-Michel, and the N13 brings you to Bayeux.

If you’re arriving from England or northern Europe, the A16/A28 from Calais to Rouen is a scenic (and near-empty) delight.

TOURING THE D-DAY BEACHES

One of the great events of modern history, the D-Day invasion of June 1944, was enacted on the beaches of Normandy.

Omaha Beach (site of an eye-opening museum), Utah Beach, as well as many sites on the Cotentin Peninsula, and the memorials to Allied dead, all bear witness to the furious fighting that once raged in this now-peaceful corner of France.

Today, as seagulls sweep over the cliffs where American rangers scrambled desperately up ropes to silence murderous German batteries, visitors now wander through the blockhouses and peer into the bomb craters, the carnage of Saving Private Ryan thankfully now a distant, if still horrifying, memory.

Unless you have a car, the D-Day beaches are best visited on a bus tour from Bayeux. Public buses are rare, although Bus No. 75 heads to Arromanches and Bus No. 70 goes to Omaha Beach and the American cemetery (summer only). However, Bus Verts du Calvados (www.busverts.fr) offers a “Circuit Caen-Omaha Beach” route that connects many of the D-Day sights.

As for guided tours, Normandy Tours (02–31–92–10–70 | www.normandy-landing-tours-hotel.com), which carries up to eight in its minivan, leaves from Bayeux’s Hotel de la Gare.

The guides are walking encyclopedias of local war lore and may be flexible about points interest to you. The half-day tours (€40) are available all year in English.

In addition, other Bayeux-based tour outfitters include D-Day Tours (02–31–51–70–52 | www.normandywebguide.com), with half-day tours (€50) and full-day tours (€80). Battlebus (02–31–22–28–82 | www.battlebus.fr) has a full-day extravaganza (€85).

FINDING A PLACE TO STAY

Dining and Lodging Price Categories (In Euros)

Restaurants

Hotels

¢

under €13

under €65

$

€13–€17

€65–€105

$$

€18–€24

€106–€145

$$$

€25–€32

€146–€215

$$$$

over €32

over €215

Restaurant prices are for a main course at dinner, including tax (5.5%) and service; note that if a restaurant offers only prix-fixe (set-price) meals, it has been given the price category that reflects the full prix-fixe price. Hotel prices are for a standard double room in high season, including tax (19.6%) and service charge.

Accommodations to suit every taste can be found throughout Normandy, from basic bed-and-breakfasts to the most luxurious hotel.

Even in the ultraswank resorts of Deauville and Trouville it is possible to find delightful and inexpensive little vacation spots.

Prices are ratcheted up in summer along the coast, so be sure to book ahead, especially on weekends when half of Paris heads to the seaside.

Many hotels are closed in winter. In the beach resorts the season runs from the end of April to October.

The region’s two largest cities, Rouen and Caen, are not among France’s best-served when it comes to high-end hotels.

To stay the night on Mont-St-Michel is a memorable experience, but be sure to reserve your room weeks in advance.

VISITOR INFORMATION

If traveling extensively by public transportation, be sure to load up on information (Guide Regional des Transport schedules, the best taxi-for-call companies, etc.) upon arriving at the ticket counter or help desk of the bigger train and bus stations in the area, such as Rouen, Deauville, and Caen. The capital of each of Normandy’s départements—Caen, Évreux, Rouen, St-Lô, and Alençon—has its own central tourist office.

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Air Travel | Bike and Moped Travel | Boat and Ferry Travel | Bus Travel | Car Travel | Train Travel

AIR TRAVEL

Paris’s Charles de Gaulle (Roissy) and Orly airports are the closest intercontinental links with the region.

There are flights in summer from London to Deauville. Year-round service between Jersey and Cherbourg, which sits at the northern tip of the Cotentin Peninsula, about 90 minutes’ drive from Bayeux.

Rouen airport has direct flights to Lyon and Montpellier.

Airport Information: Caen (02–31–71–20–10). Cherbourg (02–33–88–57–60). Deauville (02–31–65–65–65). Rouen (02–35–79–41–00).

AIR CARRIERS

Air France flies to Caen from Paris.

Ryanair flies to Deauville and Dinard (in Brittany, 56 km [35 mi] west of Mont-St-Michel) from London’s Stansted Airport.

Airlines and Contacts: Air France (08–02–80–28–02 for information | www.air-france.com).

BIKE AND MOPED TRAVEL

Traveling with your bike is free on all regional trains and many national lines; be sure to ask the SNCF which ones when you’re booking.

BOAT AND FERRY TRAVEL

A number of ferry companies sail between the United Kingdom and ports in Normandy.

Brittany Ferries travels between Caen (Ouistreham) and Portsmouth and between Poole/Portsmouth and Cherbourg.

The Dieppe-Newhaven route is covered by a daily service from Transmanche.

Brittany Ferries (08–03–82–88–28 | www.brittany-ferries.com).

Transmanche (08–00–65–01–00 | www.transmancheferries.com).

BUS TRAVEL

Cars Perier runs buses from Fécamp to Le Havre, stopping in Étretat along the way. Bus Verts du Calvados covers the coast, connecting with Caen and Honfleur, Bayeux, and other towns. It also runs, during July and August, the special D-Day Circuit 44, which allows you to see as many D-Day sights as you can squeeze into one day. These buses depart from the train stations in Bayeux and Caen. Bus routes connect many towns, including Rouen, Dieppe, Fécamp, Étretat, Le Havre, Caen, Honfleur, Deauville, Trouville, Cabourg, and Arromanches. To get to Honfleur, take a bus from Deauville; from Rouen, train it first to Le Havre, then continue on bus to Honfleur.

For Mont-St-Michel, hook up with buses from nearby Pontorson, St. Malo, or from Rennes in adjacent Brittany. If you are traveling from Paris to the Mont, take the high-speed TGV train from Gare Montparnasse to Rennes (in high season, five departures a day), then a Keolis bus transfer to the Mont. Many trains depart from Paris’s Gare-St-Lazare for Rouen (70 mins). Tourist offices and train stations in Normandy will have printed schedules.

BUS CONTACTS

Bus Information: Bus Verts du Calvados (08–10–21–42–14 | www.busverts.fr). VTNI (08–25–07–60–27). Keolis (02–99–19–70–80 | www.keolis-emeraude.com). Cars Perier (02–32–84–12–60 | www.cars-perier.fr).

CAR TRAVEL

From Paris, A13 slices its way to Rouen in 1½ hours (toll €5.20) before forking to Caen (an additional hr, toll €7.50) or Le Havre (45 mins on A131).

N13 continues from Caen to Bayeux in another two hours.

At Caen, the A84 forks off southwest toward Mont-St-Michel and Rennes.

From Paris, scenic D915 will take you to Dieppe in about three hours.

The Pont de Normandie, between Le Havre and Honfleur, effectively unites Upper and Lower Normandy.

TRAIN TRAVEL

From Paris (Gare St-Lazare), separate train lines head to Upper Normandy (Rouen and Le Havre or Dieppe) and Lower Normandy (Caen, Bayeux, and Cherbourg, via Évreux and Lisieux).

There are frequent trains from Paris to Rouen (70 mins, €19); some continue to Le Havre (2 hrs, €27). Change in Rouen for Dieppe (2 hrs from Paris, €25).

The trip from Paris to Deauville (2 hrs, €26) often requires a change at Lisieux.

There are regular trains from Paris to Caen (1 hr, 50 mins; €28), some continuing to Bayeux (2 hrs, €31).

Taking the train from Paris to Mont-St-Michel is not easy—the quickest way (3 hrs, 45 mins; €60) is to take the TGV from Gare Montparnasse to Rennes, then take the bus.

There are three trains daily, but the only one that will allow you a full day on the Mont leaves at 6:35 AM and arrives at 9:55 AM.

The other options are 11:05 (arriving 3:13 PM) and 1:05 PM (arriving 5:04). From Caen you can take either an early morning or an afternoon train to Pontorson (2 hrs, €22.20), the nearest station to the Mont; then it’s another 15 minutes to the foot of the abbey by bus or taxi (buses are directly in front of the station).

Unless you’re content to stick to the major towns (Rouen, Dieppe, Caen, Bayeux, Cherbourg), visiting Normandy by train may prove frustrating.

You can sometimes reach several smaller towns (Fécamp, Houlgate/Cabourg) on snail-paced branch lines, but the irregular intricacies of what is said to be Europe’s most complicated regional timetable will probably have driven you nuts by the time you get here.

Other destinations, like Honfleur or Étretat, require train/bus journeys.

Train Information: Gare SNCF Rouen (Rue Jeanne d’Arc | 76100 | 08–36–35–35–39). SNCF (08–36–35–35–35 | www.ter-sncf.com/regions/basse-normandie/fr/Default.aspx).

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Rouen | Fécamp | Étretat | Le Havre

From Rouen to the coast—the area known as Upper Normandy—medieval castles and abbeys stand guard above rolling countryside, while resort and fishing towns line the white cliffs of the Côte d’Alabâtre. In the 19th century, the dramatic scenery and bathing resorts along the coast attracted and inspired writers and artists like Maupassant, Monet, and Braque—and today it has the same effect on thousands of visitors.

ROUEN

32 km (20 mi) north of Louviers, 130 km (80 mi) northwest of Paris, 86 km (53 mi) east of Le Havre.

“O Rouen, art thou then to be my final abode!” was the agonized cry of Joan of Arc as the English dragged her out to be burned alive on May 30, 1431. The exact spot of the pyre is marked by a concrete-and-metal cross in front of the Église Jeanne-d’Arc, an eye-catching modern church on Place du Vieux-Marché, just one of the many landmarks that make Rouen a fascinating destination. Known as the City of a Hundred Spires, Rouen is famed for its many important churches.

Getting Here and Around

Trains from Paris (Gare St-Lazare) leave for Rouen every two hours or so (€19.50); the 85-mi trip takes 70 minutes. Change in Rouen for Dieppe (2 hrs from Paris, €26). Several trains daily link Rouen to Caen (90 mins, €22) and Fécamp (90 mins, €12.50), sometimes requiring a change to a bus at Bréauté-Beuzeville.

Visitor Information

Rouen Tourist Office (25 pl. de la Cathédrale | 76000 | 02–32–08–32–40 | www.rouentourisme.com).

EXPLORING ROUEN

Once the capital of the duchy of Normandy, Rouen overflows with monuments, medieval streets, and churches. Today a busy industrial port city of about a half-million people, it has inspired many along the way, including Gustave Flaubert and Claude Monet, who immortalized Rouen’s great cathedral in a famous series of paintings. Although much of Rouen was destroyed during World War II, a wealth of medieval half-timber houses happily still lines the cobblestone streets, many of which are pedestrian-only—most famously Rue du Gros-Horloge between Place du Vieux-Marché and the cathedral, suitably embellished halfway along with a giant Renaissance clock. This landmark, the Gros-Horloge, is featured on ninety-nine percent of the postcards sold in Rouen, so be sure to peer up at the real thing, especially as it lies at the heart of Vieux Rouen (Old Rouen), a district of tiny streets lined with hundreds of enchanting half-timber houses.

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN ROUEN

Abbaye St-Ouen.

Next to the imposing Neoclassical City Hall, this stupendous example of high Gothic architecture is noted for its stained-glass windows, dating from the 14th to the 16th century. They are the most spectacular grace notes of the spare interior along with the 19th-century pipe organ, among the finest in France. | Pl. du Général-de-Gaulle, Hôtel de Ville | 76000 | 02–32–08–32–40 | Apr.–Oct., Wed.–Mon. 10–12:30 and 2–5:30; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Thur. and weekends 10–12:30 and 2–4:30.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame.

Lording it over Rouen’s “Hundred Spires” this cathedral is crowned with the highest spire in France, erected in 1876, a cast-iron tour-de-force rising 490 feet above the crossing. The original 12th-century construction was replaced after a devastating fire in 1200; only the left-hand spire, the Tour St-Romain (St. Romanus Tower), survived the flames. Construction on the imposing 250-foot steeple on the right, known as the Tour de Beurre (Butter Tower), was begun in the 15th century and completed in the 17th, when a group of wealthy citizens donated large sums of money for the privilege of continuing to eat butter during Lent. Interior highlights include the 13th-century choir, with its pointed arcades; vibrant stained glass depicting the crucified Christ (restored after heavy damage during World War II); and massive stone columns topped by some intriguing carved faces. The first flight of the famous Escalier de la Librairie (Library Stairway), attributed to Guillaume Pontifs (also responsible for most of the 15th-century work seen in the cathedral), rises from a tiny balcony just to the left of the transept. | Pl. de la Cathédrale, St-Maclou | 76000 | 02–32–08–32–40 | Daily 8–6.

Gros-Horloge.

The name of the pedestrian Rue du Gros-Horloge, Rouen’s most popular street, comes from the Gros-Horloge itself, a giant Renaissance clock. In 1527 the Rouennais had a splendid arch built especially for it, and today its golden face looks out over the street. You can see the clock’s inner workings from the 15th-century belfry. Though the street is crammed with stores, a few old houses, dating from the 16th century, remain. Wander through the surroundingVieux Rouen (Old Rouen), a warren of tiny streets lined with more than 700 half-timber houses, many artfully transformed into fashionable shops. | Rue du Gros-Horloge, Vieux-Marché | 76000 | €6 | Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10–7; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 2–6.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

One of Rouen’s cultural mainstays, this museum is famed for its scintillating collection of paintings and sculptures from the 16th to the 20th century, including works by native son Géricault as well as by David, Rubens, Caravaggio, Velasquez, Poussin, Delacroix, Chassériau, Degas, and Modigliani. Most popular of all, however, is the impressive Impressionist gallery, with Monet, Renoir, and Sisley, and the Postimpressionist School of Rouen headed by Albert Lebourg and Gustave Loiseau. | Square Verdrel, Gare | 76000 | 02–35–71–28–40 | www.rouen-musees.com | €5, €8 includes Musée Le Secq des Tournelles and Musée de la Céramique | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

St-Maclou.

A late-Gothic masterpiece, this church sits across Rue de la République behind the cathedral and bears testimony to the wild excesses of Flamboyant architecture. Take time to examine the central and left-hand portals of the main facade, covered with little bronze lion heads and pagan engravings. Inside, note the 16th-century organ, with its Renaissance wood carving, and the fine marble columns. | Pl. St-Maclou, St-Maclou | 76000 | 02–32–08–32–40 | Mon.–Sat. 10–noon and 2–6, Sun. 3–5:30.

Tour Jeanne-d’Arc.

Sole remnant of the early-13th-century castle built by French king Philippe-Auguste, this beefy, pointed-top circular tower is a fine photo-op. Inside you’ll find a small exhibit of documents and models charting the history of the castle where Joan of Arc was tried and held prisoner in 1430. | Rue Bouvreuil, Gare | 76000 | 02–35–98–16–21 | €1.50 | Mon. and Wed.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–6, Sun. 2–6:30.

WORTH NOTING IN ROUEN

Aître St-Maclou.

A former ossuary (a charnel house used for the bodies of plague victims), this is a reminder of the plague that devastated Europe during the Middle Ages; these days it holds Rouen’s Fine Art Academy. French composer Camille Saint-Saëns (1835–1921) is said to have been inspired by the ossuary when he was working on hisDanse Macabre. The half-timber courtyard, where you can wander at leisure and maybe visit a picture exhibition, contains graphic carvings of skulls, bones, and grave diggers’ tools. | 186 rue Martainville, St-Maclou | 76000.

Église Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc Church).

Dedicated to Joan of Arc, this church was built in the 1970s on the spot where she was burned to death in 1431. The aesthetic merit of its odd cement-and-wood design is debatable—the shape of the roof is supposed to evoke the flames of Joan’s fire. Not all is new, however: the church showcases some remarkable 16th-century stained-glass windows taken from the former Église St-Vincent, bombed out in 1944. The adjacent Musée Jeanne-d’Arc evokes Joan’s history with waxworks and documents. | 33 pl. du Vieux-Marché, Vieux-Marché | 76000 | 02–35–88–02–70 | www.jeanne-darc.com | Museum €4 | Museum mid-Apr.–mid-Sept., daily 9:30–7; mid-Sept.–mid-Apr., daily 10–noon and 2–6:30.

Musée de la Céramique (Ceramics Museum).

A superb array of local pottery and European porcelain can be admired at this museum, housed in an elegant mansion near the Musée des Beaux-Arts. | 1 rue Faucon, Gare | 76000 | 02–35–07–31–74 | €3, €8 includes Musée Le Secq des Tournelles and Musée des Beaux-Arts | Wed.–Mon. 10–1 and 2–6.

Musée des Antiquités.

Gallo-Roman glassware and mosaics, medieval tapestries and enamels, and Moorish ceramics vie for attention at this collection, an extensive antiquities museum housed in a former monastery dating from the 17th century. A new display devoted to natural history, which includes some skeletons dating to prehistoric times, opened in February 2007. | 198 rue Beauvoisine, Gare | 76000 | 02–35–98–55–10 | €3 | Tues.–Sat. 10–12:15 and 1:30–5:30, Sun. 2–6.

Musée Le Secq des Tournelles (Wrought-Iron Museum).

Set near the Musée des Beaux-Arts, this claims to have the world’s finest collection of wrought iron, with exhibits spanning from the 4th through the 19th century. The displays, imaginatively housed in a converted medieval church, include the professional instruments of surgeons, barbers, carpenters, clockmakers, and gardeners. | 2 rue Jacques-Villon, Gare | 76000 | 02–35–88–42–92 | €3, €8 includes Musée des Beaux-Arts and Musée de la Céramique | Wed.–Mon. 10–1 and 2–6.

QUICK BITES: The friendly Maison Hardy (Pl. du Vieux-Marché, Vieux-Marché | 76000 | 02–35–71–81–55) offers zestful service and a splendid view of the picturesque market square, scene of the burning of Joan of Arc, whose story is retraced in colorful frescoes on the café wall.

WHERE TO EAT IN ROUEN

Fodor’s Choice | Gill Côté Bistro.

$$–$$$ | FRENCH | With two Michelin stars under his toque for his tony gastronomic restaurant Gill, chef Gilles Tournadre jumped at the chance to open a contemporary bistro on Rouen’s storied Place du Vieux-Marché. The atmosphere is sleek and modern, and the updated bistro fare, which has the distinct advantage of being served up seven days a week, consists of inspired versions of much-loved French classics, like tête de veau with sauce gribich (a caper, parsley, and cornichon Hollandaise) and andoillette, along with more contemporary dishes, like a piquant Caesar salad. Portions are ample and the small but choice menu—with a great-value €22 fixed-price option—changes monthly. | 14 pl. du Vieux-Marché, Vieux-Marché | 76000 | 02–35–89–88–72 | DC, MC, V.

Fodor’s Choice | La Couronne.

$$$$ | FRENCH | If P. T. Barnum, Florenz Ziegfeld, and Cecil B. DeMille had put together a spot distilling all the charm and glamour of Normandy, this would be it. Behind a half-timber facade gushing geraniums, the “oldest inn in France,” dating from 1345, is a sometimes-ersatz extravaganza crammed with stained leaded glass, sculpted wood beams, marble Norman chimneys, leather-upholstered chairs, and damasked curtains. The Salon Jeanne d’Arc is the largest room and has a wonderful wall-wide sash window and quaint paintings, but the only place to sit is the adorably cozy, wood-lined Salon des Rôtisseurs, an antiquarian’s delight. The star attractions on Vincent Taillefer’s €33 menu—lobster soufflé, sheeps’ feet, duck in blood sauce—make few modern concessions. Dine at La Couronne and you’ll be adding your name to a list that includes Sophia Loren, John Wayne, Jean-Paul Sartre, Salvador Dalí, and Princess Grace of Monaco. | 31 pl. du Vieux-Marché, Vieux-Marché | 76000 | 02–35–71–40–90 | www.lacouronne.com | AE, DC, MC, V.

La Toque d’Or.

$$ | FRENCH | Overlooking the Église Jeanne d’Arc, this large, bustling restaurant has been renowned since time immemorial for Normandy classics such as veal with Camembert flamed in Calvados, breast of duck glazed in cider, or spicy braised turbot. Try the excellent house-smoked salmon (they’ll give you a tour of the smokehouse if you wish) and the Norman appletarte soufflée. | 11 pl. du Vieux-Marché, Vieux-Marché | 76000 | 02–35–71–46–29 | AE, MC, V.

WHERE TO STAY IN ROUEN

Cathédrale.

$ | There are enough half-timbered walls and beams here to fill a super-luxe hotel, but the happy news is that this is a budget option—even better, it is found on a narrow pedestrian street just behind the cathedral. Ensconsced in a 17th-century building, the pretty Normand decor begins in the lobby, extends to the large dining room—fitted out with grand 17th-century-style chairs and a historic fireplace—and crescendos in the flower-laden patio, a green oasis oh-so-picturesquely framed with walls of timber and stucco. Done largely in pastel patterns, guest rooms are petite but neat and comfortable; No. 7 is the largest. Breakfast is served in the beamed tearoom. Pros: storybook decor; can’t-be-beat location. Cons: small rooms; no car access. | 12 rue St-Romain, St-Maclou | 76000 | 02–35–71–57–95 | www.hotel-de-la-cathedrale.fr | 26 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, MC, V.

Dieppe.

$–$$ | Established in 1880, the Dieppe remains up-to-date thanks to resolute management by five generations of the Guéret family. Staff members also are helpful, and they speak English. The compact rooms are cheerful and modern (No. 22 is the largest); street noise can be a problem, however, despite double-glazed windows. The restaurant, Les Quatre Saisons (no lunch Saturday), serves seasonal dishes with an emphasis on fish, such as the sole Michèle (poached in a light wine sauce), but is best known for its pressed duckling. Pros: personal service; handy for train station. Cons: lacks character; a bit away from city center. | Pl. Bernard-Tissot, Gare | 76000 | 02–35–71–96–00 | www.hotel-dieppe.fr | 41 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | MAP.

Mercure Centre.

$$–$$$ | In the jumble of streets near the cathedral—a navigational challenge if you arrive by car—this modern chain hotel has small, comfortable guest rooms done in breezy pastels. The hotel is handy for exploring the old streets of the city center. Pros: functional; central. Cons: featureless decor; hard to find. | 7 rue de la Croix-de-Fer, St-Maclou | 76000 | 02–35–52–69–52 | www.mercure.com | 125 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

Vieux Carré.

¢–$ | In the heart of Old Rouen, this cute hotel has small, practical, and comfortable rooms furnished with a taste for the exotic: lamps from Egypt, tables from Morocco, and 1940s English armoires. Ask for one of the rooms on the third floor for a view of the cathedral; No. 23 is the prettiest. Breakfast and lunch are served in the leafy courtyard, weather permitting, or in the cozy little bistro (closed Sunday) off the reception area. Lunches are light and simple. Pros: charming; central. Cons: small rooms; hard to park. | 34 rue Ganterie, Gare, | 76000 | 02–35–71–67–70 | 14 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN ROUEN

The Fête Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc Festival) takes place on the Sunday nearest to May 30, with parades, street plays, concerts, exhibitions, and a medieval market.Operas, plays, and concerts are staged at the Théâtre des Arts (7 rue du Dr-Rambert, Vieux-Marché | 76000 | 02–35–71–41–36 | www.operaderouen.com). Visit the popular local haunt Bar de la Crosse (53 rue de l’Hôpital, St-Maclou | 76000 | 02–35–70–16–68) for an aperitif and a good chat with some friendly Rouennais.

FÉCAMP

Visitor Information

Fécamp Tourist Office.

| 113 rue Alexandre-le-Grand | 76400 | 02–35–28–51–01 | www.fecamptourisme.com.

The ancient cod-fishing port of Fécamp was once a major pilgrimage site. The magnificent abbey church, Abbaye de La Trinité (Rue Leroux | 76400), bears witness to Fécamp’s religious past. The Benedictine abbey was founded by the Duke of Normandy in the 11th century and became the home of the monastic order of the Précieux Sang de la Trinité (Precious Blood of the Trinity—referring to Christ’s blood, which supposedly arrived here in the 7th century in a reliquary from the Holy Land).

Fécamp is also the home of Benedictine liqueur. The Palais de la Bénédictine (Benedictine Palace), across from the tourist office, is a florid building dating from 1892 that mixes neo-Gothic and Renaissance styles. Watery pastiche or taste-tingling architectural cocktail? Whether you’re shaken or stirred, this remains one of Normandy’s most popular attractions. The interior is just as exhausting as the facade. Paintings, sculptures, ivories, advertising posters, and fake bottles of Benedictine compete for attention with a display of the ingredients used for the liqueur, and a chance to sample it. There’s also a shop selling Benedictine products and souvenirs. | 110 rue Alexandre-le-Grand | 76400 | 02–35–10–26–10 | www.benedictine.fr | €6 | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Sept.–Dec. and Feb.–June, daily 10–12:45 and 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT IN FÉCAMP

La Marée.

$$ | FRENCH | Overlooking Fécamp’s lively harbor, this popular seafood restaurant makes up in conviviality what it lacks in charm. Considering the number of seafood plateaux that breeze by, it seems no one pays much attention to decor anyway. For sheer volume, the dishes will please even the most insatiable gourmand, then factor in variety and freshness (most everything is caught locally) and you’ve got a winning combo. Gigantic langoustine, plump crabs, and the renowned Fécamp herring are standouts, along with a nice variety of warm dishes, including a sensational whole grilled sole and a hearty local specialty: salt cod poached in Normandy cream. At €22, the lunch formule is a good bargain. | 77 quai Bérigny | 76400 | 02–35–29–39–15 | www.fecamp-restaurant-la-maree.com | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun. and Thurs.

L’Escalier.

$ | SEAFOOD | This delightfully simple little restaurant, right by the bustling, mast-peppered harbor, serves traditional Norman cuisine with, as you might expect in the region’s foremost port, fish, and seafood at the top of the menu. Try the homemade fish soup or mussels in Calvados with French fries. Portions are generous. Desserts don’t always measure up to the rest of the meal—the tarte tatin (overturned apple tart) has been known to be a shade limp—but the cozy ambience and great-value €14 set menu make this the perfect quayside spot for a quick, nourishing meal. | 101 quai Bérigny | 76400 | 02–35–28–26–79 | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Closed Dec. and Thurs. out of season.

WHERE TO STAY IN FÉCAMP

Auberge de la Rouge.

$ | The Enderlins welcome you to this little inn just south of Fécamp. Guest rooms overlook the garden and are actually good-size lofts—quaint ladders lead you to balcony beds—that sleep four. The restaurant (closed Monday; no dinner Sunday) showcases modern classics by chef Paul Durel, such as scallops with ham and leek shoots, and local specialties like roast turbot, veal and mushrooms in wine, or beef with toasted thyme. Top it off, if you can, with a local favorite, soufflé à la Bénédictine. Pros: spacious rooms; family feel. Cons: away from town center; busy road outside. | 1 rue du Bois-de-Boclon, 1 km (½ mi) south of Fécamp, | 76400 | St-Léonard | 02–35–28–07–59 | www.auberge-rouge.com | 8 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator. In-hotel: restaurant, Internet terminal, Wi-Fi hotspot, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | BP.

La Ferme de la Chapelle.

$ | The charm of this former priory lies neither in the simple, comfortable guest rooms around the courtyard nor in the restaurant with its no-frills €24 menu, but rather in its outstanding location high atop the cliffs overlooking Fécamp. There’s a breathtaking, dramatic view over the entire coastline—explore it on an invigorating hike along the nearby coastal footpath. The €140 split-level family room can accommodate up to five people. Pros: spectacular setting; good-value meals. Cons: not central; often fully booked for conferences. | Côte de la Vierge | 76400 | 02–35–10–12–12 | www.fermedelachapelle.fr | 17 rooms, 5 studios | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, pool, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.

ÉTRETAT

17 km (11 mi) southwest of Fécamp via D940, 88 km (55 mi) northwest of Rouen.

The plunging chalk cliffs of Etretat are so gorgeous and strange that they seem surreal at first. The crowds of camera-toting visitors, however, will bring you back to reality very quickly. But if you head for the cliffs in early morning or late evening, you’ll see what drew artists like Monet, Boudin, and Maupassant here. Chances are you’ll be just as inspired by this natural beauty as old Claude was.

Getting Here and Around

There are no trains to Étretat. Your best bet is to take the bus from either Fécamp (30 mins) or Le Havre (60 mins). Occasional trains from Paris (Gare St-Lazare) are met at Bréauté-Beuzeville station, between Rouen and Le Havre, by a bus that reaches Étretat in 30 minutes. For further train information, contact SNCF (08–36–35–35–35).

Visitor Information

Étretat Tourist Office.

| Place Maurice Guillard | 76790 | 02–35–27–05–21 | www.etretat.net.

EXPLORING ÉTRETAT

Fodor’s Choice | Falaises d’Étretat are white cliffs that are as famous in France as Dover’s are in England—and have been painted by many artists, Claude Monet chief among them. At low tide it’s possible to walk through the huge archways formed by the rocks to neighboring beaches. The biggest arch is at the Falaise d’Aval, to the south. For a breathtaking view of the whole bay, take the path up to the top of the Falaise d’Aval. From here you can hike for miles across the Manneporte Hills.or play a round of golf on one of Europe’s windiest and most scenic courses, overlooking L’Aiguille (The Needle), a 300-foot spike of rock jutting out of the sea just off the coast. To the north towers the Falaise d’Amont, topped by the chapel of Notre-Dame de la Garde.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN ÉTRETAT

Les Roches Blanches.

$$$ | SEAFOOD | The exterior of this family-owned restaurant off the beach is a post–World War II concrete eyesore. But take a table by the window with a view of the cliffs, order the superb fresh seafood (try the tuna steak or the sea bass roasted in Calvados or champagne), and you’ll be glad you came. Reservations are essential for Sunday lunch. | Rue de l’Abbé-Cochet | 76790 | 02–35–27–07–34 | MC, V | Closed Wed. and Nov.–Feb.

Domaine Saint Clair Le Donjon.

$$$–$$$$ | From the looks of this charming ivy-covered, Anglo-Norman château, it is easy to understand why Monet, Proust, Offenbach, and other greats accepted invitations here. Built overlooking Étretat by a rich Parisian couple in 1862, the Belle Époque house, replete with storybook tower, was built in a private park and affords lovely sea views. Guest rooms are spacious, comfortable, quiet, and individually furnished, with the emphasis on “individual”—vast swaths of red fabric, decorator mirrors, and antique gramophones are some flamboyant accents, while other rooms are stylish enough forMaison Française. For a spectacular view, request the Oriental Suite, the Horizon Room, or the Marjorie Room. Thomas Sakic’s dramatic cuisine, ranging from warm hare terrine to scallops and salmon in cider, is dished up in a cozy, romantic restaurant. Rooms are reserved on a half-board basis on weekends. Pros: grand architecture; gorgeous setting. Cons: pricey; strident decor in some rooms. | Chemin de St-Clair | 76790 | 02–35–27–08–23 | www.hoteletretat.com | 21 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, parking (free), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.

Dormy House.

$$–$$$ | Ideally located halfway up the Étretat cliffs, this smart, modernish hotel enjoys a spectacular perch. Set amid acres of manicured cliff-side parkland, the guest rooms are simple and comfortable, but the real beauty is right out your bedroom window, thanks to views of la mer, so wonderful they would have Debussy humming in no time. The largest room is known as the Chambre Directoire. The restaurant specializes in fresh fish and seafood platters, ranging from simple delights such as the sole stew to the full-scale symphonie of fish. Request a table near the window for a panoramic view of the coast. Pros: grand sea views; fine fish restaurant. Cons: rooms small; those in annex lack character. | Rte. du Havre | 76790 | 02–35–27–07–88 | www.dormy-house.com | 61 rooms, 1 suite | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | MAP.

Résidence.

¢–$ | The cheapest rooms in this picturesque 16th-century house in the heart of Étretat are pretty basic—both the bathroom and the shower are in the hallway—but the more expensive have in-room bathrooms, and one even has a hot tub. The service is friendly; the staff is young and energetic. The brasserie-type restaurant on the ground floor, La Salamandre, is rather cutting-edge for the region; all products are certified organic, farm-raised, and homemade, from the vegetable terrine to the nougat ice cream. In winter a fire crackles in the hearth. Pros: great value; eco-friendly restaurant. Cons: spartan facilities; unsavvy staff. | 4 bd. du Président-René-Coty | 76790 | 02–35–27–02–87 | www.hotellaresidenceetretat.com | 15 rooms | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: restaurant | MC, V | BP.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS IN ÉTRETAT

Don’t miss the chance to play at Golf d’Étretat (Rte. du Havre | 76790 | 02–35–27–04–89), where the breathtaking 6,580-yard, par-72 course drapes across the cliff tops of the Falaise d’Aval; it’s closed Tuesday.

LE HAVRE

28 km (18 mi) southwest of Étretat via D940, 88 km (55 mi) west of Rouen, 200 km (125 mi) northwest of Paris.

Visitor Information

Le Havre Tourist Office (186 bd. Clemenceau | 76600 | 02–32–74–04–04 | www.ville-lehavre.fr).

EXPLORING LE HAVRE

Le Havre, France’s second-largest port (after Marseille), was bombarded 146 times during World War II. You may find the rebuilt city, with its uncompromising recourse to reinforced concrete and open spaces, bleak and uninviting; on the other hand, you may admire Auguste Perret’s rational planning and audacious modern architecture, which earned the city UNESCO World Heritage status. The hilly suburb of Sainte-Adresse, just west of town, is resplendent with Belle Époque villas and an old fortress. It’s also worth a visit for its beach, often painted by Raoul Dufy, and for its fine views of the sea and port, immortalized in a famous Monet masterpiece.

The Musée Malraux, the city art museum, is an innovative 1960s glass-and-metal structure surrounded by a moat, and includes an attractive sea-view café. Two local artists who gorgeously immortalized the Normandy coast are showcased here—Raoul Dufy (1877–1953), through a remarkable collection of his brightly colored oils, watercolors, and sketches; and Eugène Boudin (1824–98), a forerunner of Impressionism, whose compelling beach scenes and landscapes tellingly evoke the Normandy sea and skyline. | 2 bd. Clemenceau | 76600 | 02–35–19–62–62 | €5 | Wed.–Mon. 11–6.

The other outstanding building in Le Havre, and one of the most impressive 20th-century churches in France, is the Église St-Joseph, built to the plans of Auguste Perret in the 1950s. The 350-foot tower powers into the sky like a fat rocket. The interior is just as thrilling. No frills here: the 270-foot octagonal lantern soars above the crossing, filled almost to the top with abstract stained glass that hurls colored light over the bare concrete walls. | Bd. François-Ier | 76000 | 02–35–42–20–03.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN LE HAVRE

L’Orchidée.

$$$ | SEAFOOD | With the port and fish market within netting distance, seafood is guaranteed to be fresh here. It’s a no-frills place—the visual appeal is on your plate, in the pinks and greens of the smoked salmon and avocado sauce that accompany the chef’s homemade fish terrine. Although chef Stéphane Lamotte specializes in fresh fish, notably sea bass, turbot, and sole fricassee with leeks, L’Orchidée has its share of meat dishes—the breast of duck with three-pepper sauce is usually a winner. | 41 rue du Général-Faidherbe | 76600 | 02–35–21–32–42 | www.restaurant-orchidee.com | AE, MC, V | Closed Mon., No dinner Sun., no lunch Sat.

Best Western Art Hotel.

$–$$ | A structure designed by the famed architect Auguste Perret (d. 1954)—whose mastery of the art of reinforced concrete lent so much élan to the rebuilding of war-devasted Le Havre—this hotel is handily located by the soothing waters of the Bassin de Commerce. Renovated in 2005, the light, airy rooms have contemporary furniture; the best, such as No. 63, which has a balcony, have views of the port. The bar, a sleek and soigné sanctum in teak woods and designer fabrics, is inviting. As at all hotels in Le Havre, the prices are high for the size of the rooms. Pros: modernist panache; functional; central. Cons: no restaurant; few rooms with balcony. | 147 rue Louis-Brindeau | 76600 | 02–35–22–69–44 | www.bestwestern.fr | 31 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, parking (paid) | AE, DC, MC, V.

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Honfleur | Deauville-Trouville | Caen | Bayeux | The D-Day Beaches | St-Lô | Granville | Mont-St-Michel

Basse Normandy (Lower Normandy) begins to the west of the Seine Estuary, near the Belle Époque resort towns of Trouville and Deauville, extending out to the sandy Côte Fleurie (Flower Coast), stretching northwest from the D-Day landing sites past Omaha Beach and on to Utah Beach and the Cotentin Peninsula, which juts out into the English Channel. After the World War II D-Day landings, some of the fiercest fighting took place around Caen and Bayeux, as many monuments and memorials testify. Heading south, in the prosperous Pays d’Auge, dairy farms produce the region’s famous cheeses. Rising to the west is the fabled Mont-St-Michel. Inland, heading back toward central France, lush green meadows and apple orchards cover the countryside starting west of the market town of Lisieux—the heart of Calvados country.

HONFLEUR

35 km (22 mi) southwest of Etretat via D940, A131, and D579, 80 km (50 mi) west of Rouen.

Honfleur is the most interesting of the Côte Fleurie’s little seaside towns. Much of the city’s Renaissance architecture remains intact, especially around the 17th-century Vieux Bassin harbor, which is almost as supremely colorful as in the days when the great Impressionist masters often painted it. The town has become increasingly crowded since the opening of the elegant Pont de Normandie, providing a direct link with Le Havre and Upper Normandy. (The world’s largest cable-stayed bridge, it’s supported by two concrete pylons taller than the Eiffel Tower and is designed to resist winds of 160 mph.) Honfleur, full of half-timber houses and cobbled streets, and once an important departure point for maritime expeditions, including the first voyages to Canada in the 15th and 16th centuries, remains a time-burnished place.

Getting Here and Around

To get to Honfleur, take the bus from Deauville (30 mins, €2.05); from Caen (1 hr, 45 mins; €7.20); or from Le Havre (30 mins, €4.10). Buses run every two hours or so and are operated by Bus Verts du Calvados (08–10–21–42–14 | www.busverts.fr).

Visitor Information

Honfleur Tourist Office. | 9 rue de la Ville | 14600 | 02–31–89–23–30 | en.ot-honfleur.fr.

EXPLORING HONFLEUR

Honfleur is beloved as one of France’s most picturesque ports. Its 17th-century harbor is fronted on one side by two-story stone houses with low, sloping roofs and on the other by tall, narrow houses whose wooden facades are topped by slate roofs. Note that parking can be a problem. Your best bet is the parking lot just beyond the Vieux-Bassin (Old Harbor) on the left as you approach from the land side.

Soak up the seafaring atmosphere by strolling around the old harbor and paying a visit to the ravishing wooden church of Ste-Catherine, which dominates a tumbling square. The church and the ramshackle belfry across the way were built by townspeople to show their gratitude for the departure of the English at the end of the Hundred Years’ War, in 1453. | Rue des Logettes | 14600 | 02–31–89–11–83.

WHERE TO EAT IN HONFLEUR

Le Fleur de Sel.

$$$–$$$$ | FRENCH | A low-beamed 16th-century fisherman’s house provides the cozy atmosphere for chef Vincent’s Guyon’s locally influenced cuisine centered on the daily catch. The ambitious menu usually includes at least five different fish dishes—presented with artistic panache—along with plenty of grilled meats, like salt-marsh lamb or pigeon. For starters, the sea trout tartare, with oyster, apple, and lime with a coriander vinaigrette, draws raves, followed by a delicately spiced filet of dorade with split-pea puree and oyster cream. Three fixed-price menus—at €28, €38, and €58—assure a splendid meal on any budget. Be sure to save room for one of the masterful desserts or an informed cheese course. | 17 rue Haute | 14600 | 02–31–89–01–92 | www.lafleurdesel-honfleur.com | AE, MC, V | Closed Tues. and Wed. and Jan.

Sa.Qua.Na.

$$$$ | FRENCH | Chef Alexandre Bourdas earned his first Michelin star in 2008, a mere nine months after opening, and single-handedly put Honfleur on the gastronomic map. From the small but ravishing dining room to the impeccable presentation, his restaurant is a study in getting it right down to the smallest detail. Surprising combinations—dorade with pigs’ feet and edamame beans; roast chicken with blood orange and juniper—attest to Bourdas’s far-flung influences: his native Aveyron, Japan (where he cooked for three years), and the regional fare he seeks out daily from local farmers and fishermen. Having also worked as a pastry chef, Bourdas creates all of his own desserts, like the glorious feuille de nougatine cacao with white chocolate and black truffles. Along with two sublime tasting menus, the chef has thoughtfully provided an €18 menu for kids under 10. Bien sûr, reserve well in advance. | 22 Pl. Hamelin | 14600 | 02–31–89–40–80 | www.alexandre-bourdas.com | MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon. and Jan. and Feb. No lunch weekdays.

WHERE TO STAY IN HONFLEUR

Ferme St-Siméon.

$$$$ | The story goes that this 19th-century manor house was the birthplace of Impressionism, and that its park inspired Monet and Sisley. Inside, the decor is a rich mix of 19th-century elegance—rich fabrics, grand paintings, Louis Seize chairs—and down-home Norman delights, with rustic antiques, ancient beams, and half-timbered walls casting a deliciously cozy spell. Guest rooms are opulent, with pastel colors, floral wallpaper, antiques, and period accents. Those in the converted stables are quieter but have less character. Be aware, however, that the high prices have more to do with the hotel’s reputation than with the amenities it offers (although spa treatments are among them). Under chef Patrick Ogheard, the sophisticated restaurant specializes in fish; the cheese board does justice to the region, as does the €129 gastronomic menu. A second (slightly) more modest restaurant, La Table Toutain, opened in 2007. Pros: famed historic charm. Cons: expensive; bland annex rooms. | Rue Adolphe-Marais on D513 to Trouville | 14600 | 02–31–81–78–00 | www.fermesaintsimeon.fr | 32 rooms, 3 suites | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, tennis court, pool, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | MAP.

L’Absinthe.

$$–$$$ | A 16th-century presbytery with stone walls and beamed ceilings houses a small and charming hotel and the acclaimed restaurant of the same name. Guest rooms are comfortable but small, except for the attic suite, which has a private living room; Nos. 2 and 3 have a view of the harbor. The elegant and cozy reception area is adorned with an imposing stone fireplace. Chef Antoine Ceffrey is famous for his seasonal seafood and fish dishes such as turbot grilled with leeks. On sunny days request a table on the terrace. The Grenouille brasserie serves simpler fare. Pros: enchanting building; superb restaurant. Cons: small rooms; gawky blend of old/modern furnishings. | 10 quai de la Quarantaine | 14600 | 02–31–89–23–23 | www.absinthe.fr | 10 rooms, 2 suites | In-room: a/c, safe. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Dec. | MAP.

La Petite Folie.

$$–$$$ | Charming simply doesn’t suffice to describe this beautifully renovated 1830s town house a stone’s throw from Honfleur’s old port (nearby landmark: the birthplace of composer Eric Satie). No luxury was spared in appointing the main house’s five rooms, whose design credits read like an A-list of Paris notables, including fabrics by Pierre Frey and Porthault linens. Although lavished with antiques, the rooms feel surprisingly contemporary (flat-screen TVs), and the sleek, modern bathrooms are equipped with glassed-in showers, except for the roomy La Directoire, which sports a capacious claw-foot tub. For those seeking a bit more space or privacy, the half-timbered 14th-century sea captain’s house next door (complete with 400-year-old sailor’s graffiti) offers three apartments, one more lovely than the next; the giant windows in the all-white top-floor suite affords a view to the water and gives the feel of an artist’s loft. Add to all this a delightful garden and “folie” terrace out back, and the magic’s complete. Pros: gracious welcome; a good value, with generous breakfast included. Cons: no-children-under-10 policy. | 44 rue Haute | 14600 | 02–35–52–69–52 | www.lapetitefolie-honfleur.com | 5 rooms, 3 apartments | In-room: a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: parking (paid) | MC, V | BP.

Le Manoir du Butin.

$$$–$$$$ | An archetypal fin-de-siècle villa, this gorgeous half-timber, dormer-roof manor welcomes you with a pretty green-and-white facade in the Anglo-Norman style. Perched on top of a small wooded hill 200 yards from the sea, the hotel offers guest rooms with appetizing views, all traditionally and tastefully furnished, and with modern marble bathrooms. The room on the first floor has a four-poster bed and its own balcony. The atmospheric restaurant (closed Wednesday; no lunch Tuesday and Thursday) specializes in seasonal fish dishes such as a light lobster consommé and braised freshwater cod. Pros: exquisite decor; sea views; stylish bathrooms. Cons: away from town center; no elevator. | Phare du Butin | 14600 | 02–31–81–63–00 | www.hotel-lemanoir.fr | 10 rooms | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: restaurant, Internet terminal, Wi-Fi hotspot, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | Closed Dec.–mid-Feb. | MAP.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN HONFLEUR

The two-day Fête des Marins (Marine Festival) is held on Pentecost Sunday and Monday. On Sunday all the boats in the harbor are decked out in flags and paper roses, and a priest bestows his blessing at high tide. The next day, model boats and local children head a musical procession. There’s also a five-day Fête du Jazz (Jazz Festival) in August.

DEAUVILLE-TROUVILLE

16 km (10 mi) southwest of Honfleur via D513, 92 km (57 mi) west of Rouen.

Twin towns on the beach, divided only by the River Touques, Deauville and Trouville compete for the title of Most Extravagant Norman Town.

Getting Here and Around

Trains to Deauville-Trouville (the station is between the two towns) from Gare St-Lazare in Paris (2 hrs, €29) often require a change at Lisieux. There are also buses to Deauville from Le Havre (1 hr, €6); Honfleur (30 mins, €2); and Caen (75 mins, €5). Buses run every two hours or so and are operated by Bus Verts du Calvados (08–10–21–42–14 | www.busverts.fr).

Visitor Information

Deauville-Trouville Tourist Office. | Pl. de la Mairie | 14800 | 02–31–14–40–00 | www.deauville.org.

EXPLORING DEAUVILLE-TROUVILLE

Deauville and Trouville have distinctly different atmospheres, but it’s easy (and common) to shuttle between them. Trouville—whose beaches were immortalized in the 19th-century paintings of Eugène Boudin (and Gigi, Vincente Minnelli’s 1958 Oscar-winner)—is the oldest seaside resort in France. In the days of Louis-Philippe, it was discovered by artists and the upper crust; by the end of the Second Empire it was the beach à la mode. Then the Duc de Mornay, half brother of Napoléon III, and other aristocrats who were looking for something more exclusive, built their villas along the deserted beach across the Touques (more than a few of these were built simply as love-shacks for their mistresses).

Thus was launched Deauville, a vigorous grande dame who started kicking up her heels during the Second Empire, kept swinging through the Belle Époque, and is still frequented by a fair share of Rothschilds, princes, and movie stars. Few of them ever actually get in the water here, since other attractions—casino, theater, music hall, polo, galas, racecourses (some of the world’s most fabled horse farms are here), marina and regattas, palaces and gardens, and extravagant shops along the Rue Eugène-Colas—compete for their attention. Fashionable avenues like Rue des Villas and Place Morny also entice. But perhaps Deauville is known best for its Promenade des Planches—the boardwalk extending along the seafront and lined with deck chairs, bars, striped cabanas, and an array of lovely half-timber Norman villas—the place for celebrity-spotting. With its high-price hotels, designer boutiques, and one of the smartest gilt-edge casinos in Europe, Deauville is often jokingly called Paris’s 21st arrondissement.

Trouville—a short drive or five-minute boat trip across the Touques River from its more prestigious neighbor—remains more of a family resort, harboring few pretensions. If you’d like to see a typical French holiday spot rather than look for glamour, stay in Trouville. It, too, has a casino and boardwalk, an aquarium and bustling fishing port, a lively Sunday morning market, plus a native population that makes it a livelier spot out of season than Deauville.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN DEAUVILLE-TROUVILLE

Fodor’s Choice | L’Essentiel.

$$–$$$ | FRENCH | A nice change from the grand, overly formal hotel dining rooms that dominate Deauville, the relaxed atmosphere and sensational cuisine at this contemporary eatery have made extremely popular. Chef Charles Thuillant, whose pedigree includes stints at two top Paris restaurants, focuses on a lighter, Asian-inspired cuisine, with Italian influences. Brimming with fresh, seasonal ingredients, the menu changes almost weekly. Dishes like lightly cooked salmon with paper-thin slices of green mango and a hint of lemon and pumpkin ravioli in a creamy parmesan broth bring this talented chef’s mastery to the forefront. A capacious terrace, a choice selection of excellent wines by the glass, and a €18 midday prix-fixe menu on weekdays make this the perfect place to linger. | 29–31 rue Mirabeau | 14800 | 02–31–87–22–11 | www.lessentieldeauville.com | AE, MC, V | Closed Mon. and Tues.

81 L’Hôtel.

$$$–$$$$ | Reopened in 2007 after an extensive renovation, this compact boutique hotel pours on the gloss. Happily, the nicer original features of the 1906 mansion remain—parquet floors, magnificent fireplace, stained glass windows, impossibly high ceilings—while the usual postmodern touches (faux crocodile chairs, silver furniture, shrouded chandeliers, ersatz-Baroque beds) were added. Although on a main road, 81 is set back enough so that the guest rooms are quiet. The top-floor suite, No. 132, offers a nice view of the famous racetrack and others sport a terrace. Eight beautifully appointed and spacious studios next door feel like you’ve snagged your very own designer apartment. Pros: catering facilities available for take-out meals; easy parking. Cons: a bit of a walk to beach. | 81 av. de la République | 14800 | 02–31–14–01–50 | www.81lhotel.com | 21 rooms | In-room: a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: parking (free) | AE, MC, V | BP.

Continental.

¢–$ | Vintage daguerrotypes prove that this is one of Deauville’s oldest establisments (opened 1866) and its once-picturesque building—shoehorned into a triangle plot and topped with an elegant mansard roof—was painted by Eugène Boudin himself. The famed Impressionist wouldn’t appreciate the modern signs that now blemish the exterior, but inside renovations have created an inviting hotel: flowering plants, comfy new chairs, and snug but tranquil guest rooms make this a good bet, especially because it’s close to the train station yet within easy walking distance of the town center. In pricey Deauville, this is a real find. Pros: cheap; handy for train station. Cons: far from the beach; lacks character. | 1 rue Désiré-Le-Hoc | 14800 | 02–31–88–21–06 | www.hotel-continental-deauville.com | 42 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Dec.

Fodor’s Choice | Normandy-Barrière.

$$$–$$$$ | With a facade that is a riot of pastel-green timbering, checkerboard walls, and Anglo-Norman balconies, the Normandy has been one of the town’s landmarks since it opened in 1912. From the beginning it attracted well-heeled Parisians (many of whom appreciated the underground passage to the casino), but it has kept them coming as its grand salons have been transformed by Jacques Garcia—France’s self-styled chicest and most aristo decorator—and now overflow with needlepointed sofas, fin-de-siècle chandeliers, and opulent silks. The lobby is a Belle Époque blowout, with soaring oak walls, a forest of columns, and islands of comfy, 19th-century-style armchairs. The courtyard is its outdoor version, with a grassy patio surrounded by a spectacular panoply of turrets and balconies. Request a room with a sea view, and don’t forget to ask about the special thalassotherapy rates with full or half days of mud baths, salt massages, and soothing heated-seawater swims. Creamy sauces swamp the Norman dishes served up in the L’Étrier restaurant, set in a grand hall which, on a bright night, after a couple of bottles of Dom Pérignon, glitters like the salons of Versailles. Pros: spectacular decor; luxurious amenities; Deauville’s place to be seen. Cons: some elements of kitschy bombast; patronizing service. | 38 rue Jean-Mermoz | 14800 | 02–31–98–66–22, 800/223–5652 for U.S. reservations | www.normandy-barriere.com | 290 rooms, 31 suites | In-room: no a/c, safe, refrigerator, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, bar, pool, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN DEAUVILLE-TROUVILLE

One of the biggest cultural events on the Norman calendar is the weeklong American Film Festival, held in Deauville in early September. Formal attire is required at the Casino de Deauville (2 rue Edmond-Blanc | 14800 | 02–31–14–31–14). Trouville’s Casino de Trouville (Pl. du Maréchal-Foch | 14800 | 02–31–87–75–00) is slightly less highbrow than Deauville’s.Night owls enjoy Le Privé (13 rue Albert-Fracasse, | 14800 | Deauville); it’s open until 5 AM. The Y Club (14 bis, rue Désiré-le-Hoc, | 14800 | Deauville) is the place to go out dancing.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS IN DEAUVILLE-TROUVILLE

Deauville becomes Europe’s horse capital in August, when breeders jet in from around the world for its yearling auctions and the races at its two attractive hippodromes (racetracks). Afternoon horse races are held in the heart of Deauville at the Hippodrome de Deauville—La Toques (Blvd. Mauger | 14800 | 02–31–14–20–00). Horse races and polo can be seen most summer afternoons at the Hippodrome de Deauville Clairefontaine (Rte. de Clairefontaine | 14800 | 02–31–14–69–00). Head for the Poney Club (Rue Reynoldo-Hahn | 14800 | 02–31–98–56–24) for a wonderful horseback ride on the beach. (The sunsets can be spectacular.) It’s open weekends and holidays, but be sure to call early to reserve a horse, or a pony for your little one. Sailing boats large and small can be rented from the Club Nautique de Trouville (Digue des Roches Noires | 14800 | 02–31–88–13–59).

CAEN

54 km (35 mi) southwest of Deauville-Trouville, 28 km (17 mi) southeast of Bayeux, 120 km (75 mi) west of Rouen.

With its abbeys and castle, Caen, a busy administrative city and the capital of Lower Normandy, is very different from the coastal resorts. William of Normandy ruled from Caen in the 11th century before he conquered England. Nine hundred years later, during the two-month Battle of Caen in 1944, a fire raged for 11 days, devastating much of the town. Today the city is basically modern and commercial, with a vibrant student scene. The Caen Memorial, an impressive museum devoted to World War II, is considered a must-do by travelers interested in 20th-century history (many avail themselves of the excellent bus tours the museum sponsors to the D-Day beaches). But Caen’s former grandeur can be seen in its extant historic monuments and along scenically restored Rue Ecuyère and Place St-Sauveur.

Getting Here and Around

Trains from Paris (Gare St-Lazare) leave for Caen every two hours or so (€29); the 150-mi trip takes less than two hours. Some trains continue to Bayeux (2 hrs, €43). Several trains daily link Caen to Rouen (90 mins, €25) and St-Lô (45 mins, €13.50). Bus Verts du Calvados (08–10–21–42–14 | www.busverts.fr) operates buses every two hours or so from the Caen train station to Le Havre (2 hrs, 15 mins; €10.20) via Deauville (75 mins, €5.10) and Honfleur (1 hr, 45 mins; €7.20).

Visitor Information

Caen Tourist Office.

| Pl. du Canada | 14000 | 02–31–27–90–30 | www.tourisme.caen.fr.

EXPLORING CAEN

A good place to begin exploring Caen is the Hôtel d’Escoville, a stately mansion in the city center built by wealthy merchant Nicolas Le Valois d’Escoville in the 1530s. The building was badly damaged during the war but has since been restored; the austere facade conceals an elaborate inner courtyard, reflecting the Italian influence on early Renaissance Norman architecture. The on-site city tourist office is an excellent resource. | Pl. St-Pierre | 14000 | 02–31–27–14–14 | www.tourisme.caen.fr.

Across the square, beneath a 240-foot spire, is the late-Gothic church of St-Pierre, a riot of ornamental stonework.

Looming on a mound ahead of the church is the château—the ruins of William the Conqueror’s fortress, built in 1060 and sensitively restored after the war. The castle gardens are a perfect spot for strolling, and the ramparts afford good views of the city. The citadel also contains two museums and the medieval church of St-Georges, used for exhibitions.

The Musée des Beaux-Arts, within the castle’s walls, is a heavyweight among France’s provincial fine-arts museums. Its old masters collection includes works by Poussin, Perugino, Rembrandt, Titian, Tintoretto, van der Weyden, and Paolo Veronese; there’s also a wide range of 20th-century art. | Entrance by castle gateway | 14000 | 02–31–30–47–70 | www.ville-caen.fr/mba | Free | Wed.–Mon. 9:30–6.

The Musée de Normandie (Normandy Museum), in the mansion built for the castle governor, is dedicated to regional arts, such as ceramics and sculpture, plus some local archaeological finds. | Entrance by castle gateway | 14000 | 02–31–30–47–60 | www.ville-caen.fr/mdn | Free; €3 for exhibitions | June–Sept., daily 9:30–6; Oct.–May, Wed.–Mon. 9:30–6.

Caen’s finest church, of cathedral proportions, is part of the Abbaye aux Hommes (Men’s Abbey), built by William the Conqueror from local Caen stone (also used for Canterbury Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, and the Tower of London). The abbey was begun in Romanesque style in 1066 and expanded in the 18th century; its elegant buildings are now part of City Hall and some rooms are brightened by the city’s fine collection of paintings. Note the magnificent yet spare facade of the abbey church of St-Étienne, enhanced by two 11th-century towers topped by octagonal spires. Inside, what had been William the Conqueror’s tomb was destroyed by 16th-century Huguenots during the Wars of Religion. However, the choir still stands; it was the first to be built in Norman Gothic style, and many subsequent choirs were modeled after it. | Pl. Louis-Guillouard | 14000 | 02–31–30–42–81 | Tours €3 | Tours daily at 9:30, 11, 2:30, and 4.

The Abbaye aux Dames (Ladies’ Abbey) was founded by William the Conqueror’s wife, Matilda, in 1063. Once a hospital, the abbey—rebuilt in the 18th century—was restored in the 1980s by the Regional Council, which then promptly requisitioned it for office space; however, its elegant arcaded courtyard and ground-floor reception rooms can be admired during a free guided tour. You can also visit the squat Église de la Trinité (Trinity Church), a fine example of 11th-century Romanesque architecture, though its original spires were replaced by timid balustrades in the early 18th century. Note the intricate carvings on columns and arches in the chapel; the 11th-century crypt; and, in the choir, the marble slab commemorating Queen Matilda, buried here in 1083. | Pl. de la Reine-Mathilde | 14000 | 02–31–06–98–98 | Free | Tours daily at 2:30 and 4.

The Mémorial, an imaginative museum erected in 1988 on the north side of the city, is a must-see if you’re interested in World War II history. The stark, flat facade, with a narrow doorway symbolizing the Allies’ breach in the Nazi’s supposedly impregnable Atlantic Wall, opens onto an immense foyer containing a café, brasserie, shop, and British Typhoon aircraft suspended overhead. The museum itself is down a spiral ramp, lined with photos and documents charting the Nazi’s rise to power in the 1930s. The idea—hardly subtle but visually effective—is to suggest a descent into the hell of war. The extensive displays range from wartime plastic jewelry to scale models of battleships, with scholarly sections on how the Nazis tracked down radios used by the French Resistance and on the development of the atomic bomb. A room commemorating the Holocaust, with flickering candles and twinkling overhead lights, sounds a jarring, somewhat tacky note. The D-Day landings are evoked by a tabletop Allied map of the theater of war and by a spectacular split-screen presentation of the D-Day invasion from both the Allied and Nazi standpoints. Softening the effect of the modern 1988 museum structure are tranquil gardens; the newest is the British Garden, inaugurated by Prince Charles in 2004. The museum itself is fittingly set 10 minutes away from the Pegasus Bridge and 15 minutes from the D-Day beaches. Readers rave about the museum’s four-hour minibus tours of the D-Day beaches, run daily April to September. You can even make a day trip from Paris for this by catching the 8:40 AM train out of Gare St-Lazare to Caen and returning on the 7:55 PM train. Besides the tour, this €100 trip includes pickup at the station and lunch. | Esplanade Dwight-D.-Eisenhower | 14000 | 02–31–06–06–44 | www.memorial.fr | €16 | Mid-Feb.–Oct., daily 9–7; Nov., Dec., and late Jan.–mid-Feb., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN CAEN

Le P’tit B.

$$$ | FRENCH | On one of Caen’s oldest pedestrian streets near the castle, this typically Norman, half-timber 17th-century dining room—stone walls, beam ceilings, and large fireplace—showcases the good-value regional cuisine of David Schiebold. The three-course €28 menu is a good value, and highlights include the grilled duck, cannelloni with goat cheese, king-prawn risotto, and, to finish, red berries in flaky pastry with coconut milk. | 15 rue de Vaugueux | 14000 | 02–31–93–50–76 | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V.

Best Western Dauphin.

$–$$ | Despite being in the heart of the city, this hotel, in a heavily restored 12th-century priory, is surprisingly quiet. Some of the smallish guest rooms have exposed beams; those overlooking the street are soundproof; the ones in back look out on the courtyard. Service is friendly and efficient in the hotel and in the excellent though expensive restaurant. Pros: quiet; historic building. Cons: small rooms; overpriced restaurant. | 29 rue Gémare | 14000 | 02–31–86–22–26 | www.le-dauphin-normandie.com | 32 rooms, 5 suites | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, gym, Wi-Fi hotspot | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.

SHOPPING IN CAEN

A marché aux puces (flea market) is held on Friday morning on Place St-Saveur and on Sunday morning on Place Courtonne. In June collectors and dealers flock to Caen’s bric-a-brac and antiques fair.

THE OUTDOORS IN CAEN

Take a barge trip along the canal that leads from Caen to the sea on the Boëdic (Quai Vendeuvre | 14000 | 02–31–43–86–12); there is a daily departure at 3 PM, except on Saturday and Monday, from April 15–October 15.

EN ROUTE: Early on June 6, 1944, the British 6th Airborne Division landed by glider and captured Pegasus Bridge (named for the division’s emblem, showing Bellerophon astride his winged horse, Pegasus). This proved the first step toward the liberation of France from Nazi occupation. To see this symbol of the Allied invasion, from Caen take D514 north and turn right at Bénouville. The original bridge—erected in 1935—has been replaced by a similar but slightly wider bridge; but the actual original can still be seen at the adjacent Mémorial Pegasus visitor center (€6 | Feb.–Nov., daily). Café Gondrée by the bridge—the first building recaptured on French soil—is still standing, still serving coffee, and houses a small museum. A 40-minute son-et-lumière show lights up the bridge and the café at nightfall between June and September.

BAYEUX

28 km (17 mi) northwest of Caen.

Bayeux, the first town to be liberated during the Battle of Normandy, was already steeped in history—as home to a Norman Gothic cathedral and the world’s most celebrated piece of needlework: the Bayeux Tapestry. Bayeux’s medieval backcloth makes it a popular base, especially among British travelers, for day trips to other towns in Normandy. Since Bayeux had nothing strategically useful like factories or military bases, it was never bombed by either side, leaving its beautiful cathedral and old town intact.

Visitor Information

Bayeux Tourist Office.

| Pointe Saint-Jean | 14400 | 02–31–51–28–28 | www.bessin-normandie.fr.

EXPLORING BAYEUX

Bayeux offers both sides of the coin, old and new. The Old-World mood is at its most boisterous during its Fêtes Médiévales, a market-cum-carnival held in the streets around the cathedral on the first weekend of July. A more traditional market is held every Saturday morning. But more modern sights await if you use Bayeux as a fine starting point for visits to Normandy’s stirring World War II sites; there are many custom-tour guides, but Taxis du Bessin (02–31–92–92–40) is one of the best.

Really a 225-foot-long embroidered scroll stitched in 1067, the Bayeux Tapestry, known in French as the Tapisserie de la Reine Mathilde (Queen Matilda’s Tapestry), depicts, in 58 comic strip–type scenes, the epic story of William of Normandy’s conquest of England in 1066, narrating Will’s trials and victory over his cousin Harold, culminating in the Battle of Hastings on October 14, 1066. The tapestry was probably commissioned from Saxon embroiderers by the count of Kent—who was also the bishop of Bayeux—to be displayed in his newly built cathedral, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame. Despite its age, the tapestry is in remarkably good condition; the extremely detailed, often homey scenes provide an unequaled record of the clothes, weapons, ships, and lifestyles of the day. It’s showcased in the Musée de la Tapisserie (Tapestry Museum; free headphones let you to listen to an English commentary about the tapestry). | Centre Guillaume-le-Conquérant, 13 bis, rue de Nesmond | 14400 | 02–31–51–25–50 | www.tapisserie-bayeux.fr | €7.80, includes admission to Musée Baron-Gérard | May–Aug., daily 9–7; Sept.–Apr., daily 9:30–12:30 and 2–6.

Housed in the Bishop’s Palace beneath the cathedral, and fronted by a majestic plane tree planted in March 1797 and known as the Tree of Liberty, the Musée Baron-Gérard contains a fine collection of Bayeux porcelain and lace, ceramics from Rouen, a marvelous collection of pharmaceutical jars from the 17th and 18th centuries, and 16th- to 19th-century furniture and paintings by local artists. | 1 pl. de la Liberté | 14400 | 02–31–92–14–21 | €3.50 (€7.80 with Tapestry Museum) | Daily 10–12:30 and 2–6.

Bayeux’s mightiest edifice, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame, is a harmonious mixture of Norman and Gothic architecture. Note the portal on the south side of the transept that depicts the assassination of English archbishop Thomas à Becket in Canterbury Cathedral in 1170, following his courageous opposition to King Henry II’s attempts to control the church. | Rue du Bienvenu | 14400 | 02–31–92–01–85 | Daily 9–6.

Handmade lace is a specialty of Bayeux. The best place to learn about it and to buy some is the Conservatoire de la Dentelle near the cathedral, which has a good display. | 6 rue du Bienvenu | 14400 | 02–31–92–73–80 | Free | Mon.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2:30–6.

At the Musée de la Bataille de Normandie (Battle of Normandy Museum), exhibits trace the story of the struggle from June 7 to August 22, 1944. This modern museum near the moving British War Cemetery, sunk partly beneath the level of its surrounding lawns, contains some impressive war paraphernalia. | Bd. du Général-Fabian-Ware | 14400 | 02–31–51–46–90 | www.normandiememoire.com | €6.50 | May–Sept., daily 9:30–6:30; Oct.–Apr., daily 10–12:30 and 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN BAYEUX

Château d’Audrieu.

$$$–$$$$ | Princely opulence, overstuffed chairs, wall sconces, antiques: this family-owned château with an elegant 18th-century facade fulfills a Hollywood notion of a palatial property. Guest rooms 50 and 51 have peaked ceilings with exposed-wood beams. The enchanting restaurant (closed Monday; no lunch weekdays)—all white wainscoting, crystal chandeliers, gilt accents—has an extensive wine list. Chef Olivier Barbarin explores an exotic repertoire of dishes, like scallops with chestnuts and cranberry juice. Pros: grandiose building; magnificent gardens. Cons: out of the way; bland decor in some rooms, food too nouvelle-ish. | 13 km (8 mi) southeast of Bayeux off N13, | 14250 | Audrieu | 02–31–80–21–52 | www.chateaudaudrieu.com | 25 rooms, 4 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, refrigerator. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, Internet terminal, Wi-Fi hotspot, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | Closed Dec. and Jan. | MAP.

Grand Hôtel du Luxembourg.

$–$$ | The Luxembourg has small but adequate guest rooms, fully renovated with bland modern furniture but with chic color schemes; all but two face a courtyard garden. Happily, it has one of the town’s best restaurants, Les Quatre Saisons (closed January), set in a bright-red salon, with a seasonal menu and regular favorites like sole with vanilla and regional tripe. Depending on the time of year, choose the honey-roast ham with melted apples, or braised turbot with sage. Pros: quiet; central, fine restaurant. Cons: unprepossessing lobby; some rooms are on the dark side. | 25 rue des Bouchers | 14400 | 02–31–92–00–04 | www.hotel-luxembourg-bayeux.com | 25 rooms, 3 suites | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.

THE D-DAY BEACHES

History focused its sights along the coasts of Normandy at 6:30 AM on June 6, 1944, as the 135,000 men and 20,000 vehicles of the Allied troops made land in their first incursion in Europe in World War II. The entire operation on this “Longest Day” was called Operation Overlord—the code name for the invasion of Normandy. Five beachheads (dubbed Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, and Sword) were established along the coast to either side of Arromanches. Preparations started in mid-1943, and British shipyards worked furiously through the following winter and spring building two artificial harbors (called “mulberries”), boats, and landing equipment. The British and Canadian troops that landed on Sword, Juno, and Gold on June 6, 1944, quickly pushed inland and joined with parachute regiments previously dropped behind German lines, before encountering fierce resistance at Caen, which did not fall until July 9. Today the best way to tour this region is by car. Or—since public buses from Bayeux are infrequent—opt for one of the guided bus tours leaving from Caen.

Bus Tours

In Caen, the Mémorial organizes four-hour English-language daily minibus tours of the D-Day landing beaches; the cost is €69, including entrance fees. Normandy Sightseeing Tours runs a number of trips to the D-Day beaches; a full-day excursion to the D-Day beaches (8:30–6) costs €75.

Fees and Schedules: Mémorial (02–31–06–06–44 | www.memorial.fr). Normandy Sightseeing Tours (618 rte. du Lavoir, | 14400 | Mosles | 02–31–51–70–52 | www.normandywebguide.com).

You won’t be disappointed by the rugged terrain and windswept sand of Omaha Beach, 16 km (10 mi) northwest of Bayeux. Here you can find the Monument du Débarquement (Monument to the Normandy Landings) and the Musée-Mémorial d’Omaha Beach, a large shedlike structure packed with tanks, dioramas, and archival photographs which stand silent witness to “Bloody Omaha.” Nearby, in Vierville-sur-Mer, is the U.S. National Guard Monument. Throughout June 6, Allied forces battled a hailstorm of German bullets and bombs, but by the end of the day they had taken the Omaha Beach sector, although they had suffered grievous losses. In Colleville-sur-Mer, overlooking Omaha Beach, is the hilltop American Cemetery and Memorial, designed by the landscape architect Markley Stevenson. You can look out to sea across the landing beach from a platform on the north side of the cemetery. | Musée-Mémorial d’Omaha Beach, Les Moulins on ave. de la Libération, Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer | 14710 | 02–31–21–97–44 | www.musee-memorial-omaha.com | €5.90 | Daily Feb. 15–Mar. 15, 10–noon and 2:30–6; Mar. 16–May 15, 9:30–6:30; May 16–Sept. 15, 9:30–7; Sept. 16–Nov. 15, 9:30–6:30.

The most spectacular scenery along the coast is at the Pointe du Hoc, 13 km (8 mi) west of St-Laurent. Wildly undulating grassland leads past ruined blockhouses to a cliff-top observatory and a German machine-gun post whose intimidating mass of reinforced concrete merits chilly exploration. Despite Spielberg’s cinematic genius, it remains hard to imagine just how Colonel Rudder and his 225 Rangers—only 90 survived—managed to scale the jagged cliffs with rope ladders and capture the German defenses in one of the most heroic and dramatic episodes of the war. A granite memorial pillar now stands on top of a concrete bunker, but the site otherwise remains as the Rangers left it—look down through the barbed wire at the jutting cliffs the troops ascended and see the huge craters left by exploded shells.

Head west around the coast on N13, pause in the town of Carentan to admire its modern marina and the mighty octagonal spire of the Église Notre-Dame, and continue northwest to Sainte-Mère Église. At 2:30 AM on June 6, 1944, the 82nd Airborne Division was dropped over Ste-Mère, heralding the start of D-Day operations. After securing their position at Ste-Mère, U.S. forces pushed north, then west, cutting off the Cotentin Peninsula on June 18 and taking Cherbourg on June 26. German defenses proved fiercer farther south, and St-Lô was not liberated until July 19. Ste-Mère’s symbolic importance as the first French village to be liberated from the Nazis is commemorated by the Borne 0 (Zero) outside the town hall—a large, dome milestone marking the start of the Voie de la Liberté (Freedom Way), charting the Allies’ progress across France.

The Musée Airborne (Airborne Museum), built behind the church in 1964 in the form of an open parachute, houses documents, maps, mementos, and one of the Waco CG4A gliders used to drop troops. | Pl. du 6-juin-1944 | 50480 | 02–33–41–41–35 | www.musee-airborne.com | €7 | Apr.–Sept. 9–6:45; Feb and Mar. and Oct. and Nov., daily 9:30–noon and 2–6.

Head east on D67 from Ste-Mère to Utah Beach, which, being sheltered from the Atlantic winds by the Cotentin Peninsula and surveyed by lowly sand dunes rather than rocky cliffs, proved easier to attack than Omaha. Allied troops stormed the beach at dawn, and just a few hours later had managed to conquer the German defenses, heading inland to join up with the airborne troops.

In La Madeleine (Plage de La Madeleine | 50480 | 02–33–71–53–35) inspect the glitteringly modern Utah Beach Landing Museum (Ste-Marie-du-Mont | 02–33–71–53–35), whose exhibits include a W5 Utah scale model detailing the German defenses; it’s open April–June, September, and October, daily 9:30–noon and 2–6, and July and August, daily 9:30–6:30; it’s closed in January. Continue north to the Dunes de Varreville, set with a monument to French hero General Leclerc, who landed here. Offshore you can see the fortified Iles St-Marcouf. Continue to Quinéville, at the far end of Utah Beach, with its museum (Rue de la Plage | 02–33–95–95–95) evoking life during the German Occupation; the museum is open April through mid-November, daily 10–7.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY NEAR THE D-DAY BEACHES

Casino.

$ | You can’t get closer to the action than this. The handsome, postwar, triangular-gabled stone hotel, run by the same family since it was built in the 1950s, looks directly onto Omaha Beach. The bar is made from an old lifeboat, and it’s no surprise that seafood and regional cuisine with creamy sauces predominate in Bruno Clemençon’s airy sea-view restaurant, where set-price menus start at €26 and hotel guests are reserved a table by the window. Pros: calm; right by the beach. Cons: small bathrooms; slow service in restaurant. | Rue de la Percée, | 14710 | Vierville-sur-Mer | 02–31–22–41–02 | www.logis-de-france.fr | 12 rooms | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, Wi-Fi hotspot, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. | MAP.

La Chenevière.

$$$$ | Topped by an impressive mansard roof, set in an elegant 18th-century château mansion, and surrounded by adorable gardens, this is a true oasis of peace a few kilometers down the road—and yet a million miles away—from the nearby World War II sites like Omaha Beach. Found inland from Port-en-Bessin, the hotel allures with super-stylish guest rooms, which comprise a fetching mix of Louis Seize chairs, gilded ormolu objects, modern photographs, and very chic fabrics. Overlooking the grand pool is La Chenevière’s showpiece: a stunning, glassed-in modern conservatory set with wicker furniture and abstract art. The restaurant serves cuisine appropriate to its surroundings: Dover sole with artichokes, lobster with wild-mushroom risotto, or roast veal with truffles. Pros: magnificent architecture; luxurious rooms. Cons: three different buildings; no a/c in the château. | Les Escures, | 14520 | Commes | 02–31–51–25–25 | www.lacheneviere.com | 26 rooms, 3 suites | In-room: a/c (some), safe, refrigerator, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Dec.– Feb. | MAP.

ST-LÔ

78 km (49 mi) southeast of Cherbourg, 36 km (22 mi) southwest of Bayeux.

St-Lô, perched dramatically on a rocky spur above the Vire Valley, was a key communications center that suffered so badly in World War II that it became known as the “capital of ruins.” The medieval Église Notre-Dame bears mournful witness to those dark days: its imposing, spire-top west front was never rebuilt, merely shored up with a wall of greenish stone. Reconstruction elsewhere, though, was wholesale. Some of it was spectacular, like the slender, spiral-staircase tower outside Town Hall; the circular theater; or the openwork belfry of the church of Ste-Croix. The town was freed by American troops, and its rebuilding was financed with U.S. support, notably from the city of Baltimore. The Hôpital Mémorial France–États-Unis (France–United States Memorial Hospital), designed by Paul Nelson and featuring a giant mosaic by Fernand Léger, was named to honor those links.

Visitor Information

St-Lô Tourist Office.

| Place General de Gaulle | 50000 | 02–33–77–60–35 | www.tourisme.fr/office-de-tourisme/saint-lo.xhtml.

EXPLORING ST-LÔ

St-Lô is capital of the Manche département (province) and, less prosaically, likes to consider itself France’s horse capital. Hundreds of breeders are based in its environs, and the Haras National (National Stud) was established here in 1886. | Av. du Maréchal-Juin | 50000 | 02–33–77–60–35 | www.haras-nationaux.fr | €5 | Guided tours only, June and Sept. at 3:30, July and Aug. at 11, 2:30, 3:30, and 4:30.

St-Lô’s art museum, the Musée des Beaux-Arts, is the perfect French provincial museum. Its halls are airy, seldom busy, not too big, yet full of varied exhibits—including an unexpected masterpiece: Gombault et Macée, a set of nine silk-and-wool tapestries woven in Bruges around 1600 relating a tale about a shepherd couple, exquisitely showcased in a special circular room. Other highlights include brash modern tapestries by Jean Lurçat; paintings by Corot, Boudin, and Géricault; court miniatures by Daniel Saint (1778–1847); and the Art Deco pictures of Slovenian-born Jaro Hilbert (1897–1995), inspired by ancient Egypt. Photographs, models, and documents evoke St-Lô’s wartime devastation. | Centre Culturel, Pl. du Champ-de-Mars | 50000 | 02–33–72–52–55 | €2.80 | Wed.–Sun. 2–6.

GRANVILLE

30 km (19 mi) south of Coutances via D971, 107 km (67 mi) southwest of Caen.

Proud locals like to call Granville the “Monaco of the North.” It perches on a rocky outcrop and does have a seawater therapy center, but…the similarities end there. Free of casinos and sequins, Granville instead has a down-to-earth feel. Granite houses cluster around the church in the Vieille Ville, and the harbor below is full of working boats. From the ramparts there are fine views of the English Channel; catamarans breeze over to Jersey and the Iles Chausey daily in summer. Drive a few miles down the coast to find sandy beaches and a view of distant Mont-St-Michel. The Grand Pardon des Corporations de la Mer, a pardon, or religious festival, devoted to the sea, is celebrated in Granville on the last Sunday of July with a military parade, a regatta, and platefuls of shellfish.

WHERE TO EAT IN GRANVILLE

L’Echaugette.

¢ | FRENCH | There’s an excellent choice of grills and pancakes, both sweet and savory, at this quaint little creperie on a narrow street in the upper town. Pancakes au gratin and with scallops are specialties. | 24 rue St-Jean | 50400 | 02–33–50–51–87 | No credit cards.

MONT-ST-MICHEL

61 km (39 mi) southwest of St-Lô via D999 and N175; 123 km (77 mi) southwest of Caen; 67 km (42 mi) north of Rennes; 325 km (202 mi) west of Paris.

Getting Here and Around

There are two routes to Mont-St-Michel, depending on whether you arrive from Caen or from Paris. From Caen you can take either an early-morning or an afternoon train to Pontorson (2 hrs, €23.40), the nearest station; then it’s another 15 minutes to the foot of the abbey by bus or taxi. (Both leave from in front of the station.) From Paris, take the TGV from Gare Montparnasse to Rennes, then take a Courriers Bretons bus (02–99–19–70–80). The total journey takes 3 hours, 20 minutes (€40). There are three trains daily, but the only one that allows you a full day on the Mont leaves at 6:35 AM and arrives at 9:55 AM. The other options are 11:05 (arriving 3:13 PM) and 1:05 PM (arriving 5:04 PM).

Visitor Information

Mont-St-Michel Tourist Office.

| Corps de Garde | 50170 | 02–33–60–14–30 | www.ot-montsaintmichel.com.

EXPLORING MONT-ST-MICHEL

Mont-St-Michel is the most-visited sight in France after the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre. This beached mass of granite, rising some 400 feet, was begun in 709 and is crowned with the “Marvel,” or great monastery, that was built during the 13th century.

Wrought by nature and centuries of tireless human toil, this sea-surrounded mass of granite adorned with the soul-lifting silhouette of the Abbaye du Mont-St-Michel is Normandy’s most enduring image. The abbey is perched on a 264-foot-high rock a few hundred yards off the coast: it’s surrounded by water during the year’s highest tides and by desolate sand flats the rest of the time. Be warned: tides in the bay are dangerously unpredictable. The sea can rise up to 45 feet at high tide and rushes in at incredible speed—more than a few ill-prepared tourists over the years have drowned. Also, be warned that there are patches of dangerous quicksand. A causeway—to be replaced in time by a bridge, allowing the bay waters to circulate freely—links Mont-St-Michel to the mainland. Leave your car in the parking lot (€4) along the causeway, outside the main gate. Just inside you can find the tourist office, to the left, and a pair of old cannons (with cannonballs) to the right. If you’re staying the night on Mont-St-Michel, take what you need in a small suitcase; you cannot gain access to your hotel by car and the parking lot is unguarded at night. The Mont’s tourist office is in the Corps de Garde des Bourgeois, just to the left of the island gates.

Legend has it that the Archangel Michael appeared in 709 to Aubert, Bishop of Avranches, inspiring him to build an oratory on what was then called Mont Tombe. The rock and its shrine were soon the goal of pilgrimages. The original church was completed in 1144, but further buildings were added in the 13th century to accommodate monks as well as the hordes of pilgrims who flocked here even during the Hundred Years’ War, when the region was in English hands. During the period when much of western France was subjected to English rule, the abbey remained a symbol, both physical and emotional, of French independence. Because of its legendary origins and the sheer exploit of its centuries-long construction, the abbey became known as the “Merveille de l’Occident” (Wonder of the Western World). The granite used to build it was transported from the nearby Isles of Chausey and hauled up to the site. The abbey’s construction took more than 500 years, from 1017 to 1521. The abbey’s monastic independence was undermined during the 17th century, when the monks began to flout the strict rules and discipline of their order, drifting into a state of decadence that culminated in their dispersal and the abbey’s conversion into a prison, well before the French Revolution. In 1874 the former abbey was handed over to a governmental agency responsible for the preservation of historic monuments. Emmanuel Frémiet’s great gilt statute of St. Michael was added to the spire in 1897. Monks now live and work here again, as in medieval times: you can join them for daily mass at 12:15.

All year long, the hour-long guided tour in English (two a day and night in high season) and French (up to two an hour) takes you through the impressive Romanesque and Gothic abbey and the spectacular Église Abbatiale, the abbey church, which crowns the rock, as well as the Merveille, a 13th-century, three-story collection of rooms and passageways. La Merveille was built by King Philippe Auguste around and on top of the monastery; on its second floor is the Mont’s grandest chamber, the Salle des Chevaliers. Another tour, which also includes the celebrated Escalier de Dentelle (Lace Staircase), and the pre-Roman and exquisitely evocative Notre-Dame-sous-Terre is longer, has a higher ticket price, and is only given in French. Invest in at least one tour while you are here—some of them get you on top of or into things you can’t see alone. If you do go it alone, stop halfway up Grande-Rue at the medieval parish church of St-Pierre to admire the richly carved side chapel with its dramatic statue of St. Michael slaying the dragon. The Grand Degré, a steep, narrow staircase, leads to the abbey entrance, from which a wider flight of stone steps climbs to the Saut Gautier Terrace (named after a prisoner who jumped to his death from it) outside the sober, dignified church. After visiting the arcaded cloisters alongside, which offer vertiginous views of the bay, you can wander at leisure, and probably get lost, among the maze of rooms, staircases, and vaulted halls. Scattered throughout the mount are four mini-museums (closed January), which cost €8 individually or €16 together. The Logis Tiphaine (02–33–60–23–34) was the home that Bertrand Duguesclin, a general fierce in his allegiance to the cause of French independence, built for his wife Tiphaine in 1365. The Musée Historique (Chemin de la Ronde | 50170 | 02–33–60–07–01) traces the 1,000-year history of the Mont in one of its former prisons. The Musée Maritime (Grande Rue | 02–33–60–14–09) explores the science of the Mont’s tidal bay and has a vast collection of model ships. The Archéoscope (Chemin de la Ronde | 02–33–89–01–85) explores the myths and legends of the Mont through a sound and light show. Some exhibits use wax figures fitted out in the most glamorous threads and costumes of the 15th century. If you have time for just one museum, this one makes the best introduction to the area. The island village, with its steep, narrow streets, is best visited out of season, from September to June. In summer the hordes of tourists and souvenir sellers can be stifling. Give yourself at least half a day here, and follow your nose. The mount is full of nooks, crannies, little gardens, and echoing views from the ramparts. The Mont is spectacularly illuminated every night from dusk to midnight. | 02–33–89–80–00 | mont-saint-michel.monuments-nationaux.fr | €8.50, €12.50 with audio guide | May–Aug., daily 9–7; Sept.–Apr., daily 9:30–5.

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Eating and Drinking Well in Normandy | Normandy on Canvas

EATING AND DRINKING WELL IN NORMANDY

It’s the felicitous combination of the dairy farm, the apple orchard, and the sea that inspire Normandy’s crème de la crème cuisine, featuring voluptuous cream sauces, tender cheeses, lavish seafood platters, and head-spinning Calvados brandy.

Normandy’s verdant landscape—a patchwork of pastures and apple orchards bordered by the sea—heralds a region of culinary delights. The apples are rendered into tarts, cakes, sauces, and cidre bouché, a sparkling cider sold in cork-top bottles. Brown and white cows grazing beneath the apple blossoms—the famous vaches normandes—each produce up to seven gallons of milk a day, destined to become golden butter, thick crème fraîche, and prized cheeses. Coastal waters from Dieppe to Granville are equally generous, yielding sole, turbot, and oysters. To fully appreciate Normandy’s gastronomic wealth, stroll through a weekend markets, such as the splendid Saturday morning affair in Honfleur on the cobbled Place Sainte-Catherine, sample a seafood platter at a boardwalk café in Deauville, or meet the omelet of your dreams at La Mère Poulard at Mont-Saint-Michel.

APPLE COUNTRY

One fragrance evokes Normandy—the pungent, earthy smell of apples awaiting the press in the autumn. Normandy is apple country, where apples with quaint varietal names, such as Windmill and Donkey Snout, are celebrated in the region’s gastronomy, along the Route du Cidre, or at Vimoutier’s Foire de la Pomme festival in October (where they vote for the Most Beautiful Apple!).

CHEESE PLATTER

Camembert is king in the dairy realm of Normandy. This tangy, opulently creamy cow’s-milk cheese with the star billing and worldwide reputation hails from the Auge region.

The best—Véritable Camembert de Normandie—with velvety white rinds and supple, sometimes oozy interiors, are produced on small farm properties, such as the esteemed Moulin de Carel.

Other members of Normandy’s (cheese) board are the savory, grassy Pont L’Évêque, the impressively pungent Livarot with rust-color rind, and the Pavé d’Auge, a robust cheese with a honey-hue center.

CALVADOS

There are no wines in Normandy, but the region makes its mark in the spirits world with the apple-based Calvados, a fragrant oak-aged brandy.

Like Cognac, Calvados, which is distilled from cider, gets better and more expensive with age.

Top producers, such as Dupont in Victot-Pontfol and Pierre Huet in Cambremer, sell Calvados from “Vieux,” aged a minimum of three years, to “X.O.” or “Napoléon,” aged from 6 to 25 years.

Many producers also offer Pommeau, an aperitif blending cider with a generous dose of Calvados.

ON THE HALF SHELL

Few places in France make an oyster lover happier than Normandy’s Cotentin Peninsula.

Here, where the land juts into the sea a few miles beyond the Landing Beaches, are ports such as Blanville-sur-Mer, Granville, and particularly St-Vaast-La Hougue, where oystermen haul in tons of plump, briny oysters distinguished by a subtle note of hazelnut.

Enjoy a dozen on the half shell at many traditional restaurants in this region, accompanied by a saucer of shallot vinegar and brown bread.

OMELET EXTRAORDINAIRE

There is no more famous omelet in the world than the puffy, pillowlike confection offered at La Mère Poulard in Mont-Saint-Michel (02–33–89–68–68).

Whipped with a balloon whisk in a large copper bowl, then cooked in a long-handled skillet over a wood fire, the omelet is delicately brown and crusted on the outside, as soft and airy as a soufflé within. Order the omelet with ham and cheese as a main course, or sugared and flambéed as a majestic dessert.

NORMANDY ON CANVAS

Long before Claude Monet created his Giverny lily pond by diverting the Epte River that marks the boundary with Ile-de-France, artists had been scudding into Normandy. For two watery reasons: the Seine and the sea. Just downstream from Vernon, where the Epte joins the Seine, Richard the Lion-Hearted’s ruined castle at Les Andelys, immortalized by Paul Signac and Félix Vallotton, heralds the soft-lighted, cliff-lined Seine Valley, impressionistically evoked by Albert Lebourg and Gustave Loiseau in the Arts Museum in Rouen—where Camille Corot once studied, and whose mighty cathedral Monet painted until he was pink, purple, and blue in the face.

The Seine joins the sea at Le Havre, where Monet grew up, a protégé of Eugène Boudin, often termed the precursor of Impressionism. Boudin would boat across the estuary from Honfleur, where he hobnobbed with Gustave Courbet, Charles Daubigny, and Alfred Sisley at the Ferme St-Siméon. Le Havre in the 1860s was base camp for Monet and his pals Frédéric Bazille and Johan Barthold Jongkind to explore the rugged coast up to Dieppe, with easels opened en route beneath the cliffs of Étretat.

The railroad from Gare St-Lazare (smokily evoked by Monet) put Dieppe within easy reach of Paris. Eugène Delacroix daubed seascapes here in 1852. Auguste Renoir visited Dieppe from 1878 to 1885; Paul Gauguin and Edgar Degas clinked glasses here in 1885; Camille Pissarro painted his way from Gisors to Dieppe in the 1890s. As the nearest port to Paris, Dieppe wowed the English, too. Walter Sickert moved in from 1898 to 1905, and artists from the Camden Town Group he founded back in London often painted in Dieppe before World War I.

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Main Table of Contents

Introducing Brittany

Brittany Planner

Getting Around

Northeast Brittany and the Channel Coast

The Atlantic Coast

Brittany In Depth

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented

Updated by Jennifer Ladonne

Wherever you wander in Brittany—along jagged coastal cliffs, through cobbled seaport streets, into burnished-oak cider pubs—you’ll hear the primal pulse of Celtic music. Made up of bagpipes, drums, and the thin, haunting filigree of a tin-whistle tune, these folkloric notes tell you that you are in the land of the Bretons, where Celtic bloodlines run deep as a druid’s roots into the rocky, sea-swept soil.

France’s most fiercely and determinedly ethnic people, the Bretons delight in celebrating their primeval culture—circle dancing at street fairs, the women donning starched lace-bonnet coiffes, and the men in striped fishermen’s shirts at the least sign of a regional celebration. They name their children Erwan and Edwige, carry sacred statues in ceremonial religious processions called pardons, pray in hobbit-scale stone churches decked with elfin, moonfaced gargoyles. And scattered over the mossy hillsides stand Stonehenge-like dolmens and menhirs (prehistoric standing stones), eerie testimony to a primordial culture that predated and has long outlived Frankish France.

Similarities in character, situation, or culture to certain islands across the Channel are by no means coincidental. Indeed, the Celts that migrated to this westernmost outcrop of the French landmass spent much of the Iron Age on the British Isles, where they introduced the indigenes to innovations like the potter’s wheel, the rotary millstone, and the compass. This first influx of Continental culture to Great Britain was greeted with typically mixed feelings, and by the late 5th century AD the Saxon hordes had sent these Celtic “Brits” packing southward, to the peninsula that became Brittany. So completely did they dominate their new, Cornwall-like peninsula (appropriately named Finistère, from finis terrae, or “land’s end”) that when in 496 they allied themselves with Clovis, the king of the Franks, he felt as if he’d just claimed a little bit of England.

Needless to say, the cultural exchange flowed both ways over the Channel. From their days on the British Isles the Britons brought a folklore that shares with England the bittersweet legend of Tristan and Iseult, and that weaves mystical tales of the Cornwall–Cornouaille of King Arthur and Merlin. They brought a language that still renders village names unpronounceable: Aber-Wrac’h, Tronoën, Locmariaquer, Poldreuzic, Kerhornaouen. And, too, they brought a way of life with them: half-timber seaside cider bars, their blackened-oak tables softened with prim bits of lace; stone cottages fringed with clumps of hollyhock, hydrangea, and foxglove; bearded fishermen in yellow oilskins heaving the day’s catch into weather-beaten boats, terns and seagulls wheeling in their wake. It’s a way of life that feels deliciously exotic to the Frenchman and—like the ancient drone of the bagpipes—comfortably, delightfully, even primally familiar to the Anglo-Saxon.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Waterworld: Will you prefer the coastal drama of the Granite Coast, with its crazy-shape outcrops, or the rippling waters of the Bay of Morbihan, snuggling in the Gulf Stream behind the angry Atlantic?

The Isle Has It: Venture down the untamed Quiberon Peninsula to boat across to the rugged, unspoiled beauty of Belle-Ile-en-Mer, Brittany’s wildest island.

Gauguin’s Pont-Aven: A cité des artistes, its colorful folkloric ways helped ignite the painter’s interest in Tahiti.

Unidentical Twins: A ferry ride across the Rance River links two delightfully contrasting towns: ancient, once pirate-ridden St-Malo and grand, genteel, Edwardian Dinard.

Stone Me!: Muse upon the solemn majesty of row-upon-row of anciens menhirs at Carnac, the “French Stonehenge.”

GETTING ORIENTED

Bretons like to say they are Celtic, not Gallic, and other French people sometimes feel they are in a foreign land when they visit this jagged triangle perched on the northwest tip of mainland Europe. Two sides of the triangle are defined by the sea. Brittany’s northern coast faces the English Channel; its western coast defies the Atlantic Ocean. The north of Brittany tends to be wilder than the south, or Basse Bretagne, where the countryside becomes softer as it descends toward Nantes and the Loire. But wherever you go, “maritime Armor”—the Land of the Sea—is never too far away.

Northeast Brittany and the Channel Coast. The northern half of Brittany is demarcated by its 240-km (150-mi) Channel Coast, which stretches from Cancale, just west of Mont-St-Michel, to Morlaix, and can be loosely divided into two parts: the Côte d’Emeraude (Emerald Coast), with cliffs punctuated by golden, curving beaches; and the Côte de Granit Rose (Pink Granite Coast), including the stupefying area around Trébeurden, where Brittany’s granite takes amazing forms glowing an otherworldly pink. On the road heading there are the gateway city of Rennes; Vitré, a beautifully preserved historic towns;the oyster mecca that is Concale; and the great port of St-Malo, whose stone ramparts conjure up the days of the great marauding corsairs.

The Atlantic Coast. Bypassing the lobster-claw of Brittany’s Finistère (“World’s End”), this westernmost region allures with folkloric treasures like Ste-Anne-la-Palud (famed for its pardon festival); Quimper, noted for its signature ceramics; and cheerful, riverside villages like Pont-Aven, which Gauguin immortalized in many sketches and paintings. Here, the 320-km (200-mi) Atlantic coast zigzags its way southeast, with frenzied, cliff-bashing surf alternating with sprawling beaches and bustling harbors. Belle-Ile island is a jewel off the Morbihan coast, another beautiful stretch of shoreline. Enjoy its away-from-it-all atmosphere, because the bustling city of Nantes lies just to the southeast.

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Parlez-Vous Breton? | Pardons and Festivals | Making the Most of Your Time | When to Go | Finding a Place to Stay | Transportation Basics | Visitor Information

PARLEZ-VOUS BRETON?

Most place names in Brittany are Breton; the popular plou means “parish”—this is where the French got the word plouc, meaning “hick.”

Other common geographical names are coat (forest), mor (sea), aber or aven (estuary), ster (river), and enez (island). Ty and ti, like the French chez, mean “at the house of.”

While under the radar screen for the most part during the past decade, the Breton Revolutionary Army is a nationalist group committed to preserving Breton culture against French efforts to repress it. Now that everyone agrees that traditional Breton folkways are a priceless boost to tourism and cultural patrimony, this is a common goal shared by many.

PARDONS AND FESTIVALS

It has been said that there are as many Breton saints as there are stones in the ground. One of the great attractions of Brittany, therefore, remains its many festivals, pardons, and folklore events: Banners and saintly statues are borne in colorful parades, accompanied by hymns, and the entire event is often capped by a feast.

In February, the great Pardon of Terre-Neuve takes place at St-Malo, and in March, Nantes celebrates with a pre-Lenten carnival procession. In mid-May there is a notable pardon of Saint-Yves, patron saint of lawyers, at Tréguier. June is the month of St. John, honored by the ceremonial Feux de Saint-Jean at Locronan and Nantes.

July sees Quimper’s Celtic Festival de Cornouaille and the famed pardon in Ste-Anne-d’Auray. August has Lorient’s Festival Interceltique, Pont-Aven’s Festival of the Golden Gorse, Brest’s bagpipe festival, and a big pardon in Ste-Anne-la-Palud. Another pardon held in Le Folgoët during September is one of the most extraordinary, with flocks of bishops, Bretons in traditional costumes, and devout pilgrims.

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

If you have just a few days here, choose your coast—Channel or Atlantic! Cliffs and beaches, boat trips, culture and history. both shorelines offer all these and more. St-Malo makes a good base if you’re Channel-bound, handily placed for medieval Dinan; Chateaubriand’s home at Combourg; Dinard, the elegant Belle Époque resort once favored by British aristocrats; and the lively city of Rennes, the gateway to Brittany set 354 km (220 mi) west of Paris. Pretty Vannes is a good base for exploring the Atlantic coast. Highlights hereabouts include lively Quimper, with its fine cathedral and pottery; the painters’ village of Pont-Aven, made famous by Gauguin; the prehistoric menhirs of Carnac; the rugged island of Belle-Ile; and the picturesque Bay of Morbihan. The third side of the Brittany triangle is its verdant, unhurried hinterland. Charming—but forget it unless you’re here for the month.

WHEN TO GO

The tourist season is short in Brittany (late June through early September).

Long, damp winters keep visitors away, and many hotels are closed until Eastertime.

Brittany is particularly crowded in July and August.

During these months, most French people are on vacation, so why not opt to choose crowd-free June or September?

Some say early October, with autumnal colors and crisp evenings, is even better and truly makes for an invigorating visit.

But if you want to sample local folklore, late summer is the most festive time to come.

FINDING A PLACE TO STAY

Dining and Lodging Price Categories (In Euros)

Restaurants

Hotels

¢

under €13

under €65

$

€13–€17

€65–€105

$$

€18–€24

€106–€145

$$$

€25–€32

€146–€215

$$$$

over €32

over €215

Restaurant prices are for a main course at dinner, including tax (5.5%) and service; note that if a restaurant offers only prix-fixe (set-price) meals, it has been given the price category that reflects the full prix-fixe price. Hotel prices are for a standard double room in high season, including tax (19.6%) and service charge.

Outside the main cities (Rennes and Nantes), Brittany has plenty of small, appealing family-run hotels which cater essentially to seasonal visitors.

Note that many close for one or several months between October and March.

Booking ahead is strongly advised for the Easter period.

In addition, this is the case during the midsummer period, when it is routine for prices to be ratcheted up by 30% to 50%.

For luxury hotels Dinard, on the English Channel, and La Baule, on the Atlantic, are the area’s two most expensive resorts.

Assume that all hotel rooms have TV, telephones, and private bath, unless otherwise noted.

TRANSPORTATION BASICS

In just over two hours the TGV train from Paris whisks you to Rennes, the region’s hub. From Rennes you can continue to distant outpoints like Quimper or take a branch line to St-Malo or Dinan. You need to use buses, or a car, to explore the coast between Dinard and Rostoff, and the smaller towns along the Atlantic coast, like Concarneau, and Pont-Aven. The A11 expressway leads from Paris to Rennes, continuing as the N12 dual-carriageway to Brest, where the N165 dual-carriageway heads down the coast toward Nantes.

VISITOR INFORMATION

In addition to the Regional Tourist Boards, try the very helpful Maison de la Bretagne in Paris.

Comité Départemental du Tourisme des Côtes-d’Armor (7 rue St-Benoît, | 22000 | St-Brieuc | 02–96–62–72–00 | www.cotesdarmor.com). Comité Départemental du Tourisme de Finistère (11 rue Théodore-Le Hars, | 29000 | Quimper | 02–98–76–20–70 | www.finisteretourisme.com). Comité Départemental du Tourisme de Loire-Atlantique (2 allée Baco, | 44000 | Nantes | 02–51–72–95–30 | www.cdt44.com). Maison de la Bretagne (203 bd. St-Germain, | 75007 | Paris | 01–53–63–11–50).

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Air Travel | Bus Travel | Car Travel | Train Travel

AIR TRAVEL

Aéroport de Rennes has domestic flights to and from both Paris airports and Bordeaux, Lyon, Toulouse, Marseille, Strasbourg, and Basle-Mulhouse. Aéroport de Nantes also hosts Ryanair flights to and from London Stansted.

Air Travel Information: Aéroport de Nantes (Bouguenais, southwest of city | 44000 | 02–40–84–80–00 | www.nantes-aeroport.fr). Aéroport de Rennes (St-Jacques de la Lande, southwest of city | 35000 | 02–99–29–60–00 | www.rennes.aeroport.fr).

BUS TRAVEL

Brittany is serviced by a bewildering number of companies. While the region is nicely threaded by train lines, some towns are bus-only. These include Carnac (90 mins) and Quiberon (2 hrs), on a Keolis Atlantique bus from Vannes; Dinard (30 mins) with a Keolis Emeraude bus from St-Malo; and Cancale (40 mins, €2), also from St-Malo.

As for Mont-St-Michel, buses connect with St-Malo (1 hr, 50 mins via Dol, €4.50) and with Rennes (80 mins, €10.30). Use Transports Caoudal from Quimper to reach Pont-Aven.

Bus Information: Keolis Atlantique (02–97–47–29–64 | morbihan.fr). Cars du Kreisker (02–98–69–00–93 | www.cars-kreisker.com). CAT (02–96–39–21–05 | tibus.fr). Keolis Emeraude (02–99–19–70–80 | www.keolis-emeraude.com). TIV (02–99–26–11–11). Transports Caoudal (02–98–90–88–89). Transports Le Bayon (02–97–24–26–20 or 02–99–29–60–00 | www.rennes.aeroport.fr).

CAR TRAVEL

Rennes, the gateway to Brittany, is 310 km (195 mi) west of Paris. It can be reached in about three hours via Le Mans using A81 and A11 (A11 continues southwest from Le Mans to Nantes). Rennes is linked by good roads to Morlaix (E50), Quimper (N24/N165), and Vannes (N24/N166). A car is pretty much essential if you want to see out-of-the-way places.

TRAIN TRAVEL

Most towns in this region are accessible by train, though you need a car to get to some of the more secluded spots. The high-speed TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) departs 15 times daily from Paris (Gare Montparnasse) for Rennes, making this region easily accessible. The trip takes about 2¼ hours (€55).

Some trains from Paris branch in Rennes to either Brest or Quimper (4 hrs, 45 mins from Paris; €83), stopping in Vannes (3 hrs, 20 mins from Paris; €63.80). From Rennes there are frequent regional trains via Dol to St-Malo (55–80 mins, €16).

You can reach Dinan from Dol (20 mins, €6). Change at Auray for Quiberon (train service July and August only; otherwise, bus links, 1 hr; €6.30).

Train Information: SNCF (36–35 [€0.34 per min] | www.voyages-sncf.com). TGV (www.tgv.com).

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Vitré | Rennes | Combourg | Dinan | Cancale | St-Malo | Dinard | Paimpol | Trébeurden

It’s useful to know that Brittany is divided into two nearly equal parts—Upper Brittany, along the Channel coast, and Lower Brittany. The latter (called in French Basse-Bretagne or Bretagne Bretonnante) is, generally speaking, the more interesting. But the Channel coast of Upper Brittany has its share of marvels. The rolling farmland around Rennes is strewn with mighty castles, such as the one in Vitré—remnants of Brittany’s ceaseless efforts to repel invaders during the Middle Ages and a testimony to the wealth derived from pirate and merchant ships. The beautiful Côte d’Émeraude (Emerald Coast) stretches west from Cancale to St-Brieuc, and the dramatic Côte de Granit Rose (Pink Granite Coast) extends from Paimpol to Trébeurden and the Corniche Bretonne. Follow the coastal routes D786 and D34—winding, narrow roads that total less than 100 km (62 mi) but can take five hours to drive; the spectacular views that unfold en route make the journey worthwhile.

VITRÉ

32 km (20 mi) south of Fougères via D798 and D178.

There’s still a feel of the Middle Ages about the formidable castle, tightly packed half-timber houses, remaining ramparts, and dark alleyways of Vitré (pronounced vee-tray). Built high above the Vilaine Valley, the medieval walled town that spreads out from the castle’s gates, though small, is the best-preserved in Brittany, and utterly beguiling. The Disney-esque castle stands at the west end of town, facing narrow, cobbled streets as picturesque as any in Brittany—Rue Poterie, Rue d’Embas, and Rue Beaudrairie, originally the home of tanners (the name comes from baudoyers, or leather workers).

Getting Here and Around

Several trains traveling between Paris and Rennes stop daily in Vitré. The trip from Rennes takes 30 minutes. Both SNCF and TIV run a couple of daily buses between Vitré and Fougères (35 mins) but only one round-trip on Sunday.

Visitor Information

Vitré Tourist Office.

| Pl. St-Yves | 35500 | 02–99–75–04–46 | www.ot-vitre.fr.

EXPLORING VITRÉ

Rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries to protect Brittany from invasion, the fairy-tale, 11th-century Château de Vitré—shaped in an imposing triangle with fat, round towers—proved to be one of the province’s most successful fortresses: during the Hundred Years’ War (1337–1453) the English repeatedly failed to take it, even when they occupied the rest of the town.

It’s a splendid sight, especially from the vantage point of Rue de Fougères across the river valley below. Time, not foreigners, came closest to ravaging the castle, which has been heavily though tastefully restored during the past century.

The Hôtel de Ville (town hall), however, is an unfortunate 1913 accretion to the castle courtyard. Visit the wing to the left of the entrance, beginning with the Tour St-Laurent and its museum, which contains 15th- and 16th-century sculptures, Aubusson tapestries, and engravings.

Continue along the walls via the Tour de l’Argenterie—which contains a macabre collection of stuffed frogs and reptiles preserved in glass jars—to the Tour de l’Oratoire (Oratory Tower). | 02–99–75–04–54 | www.mairie-vitre.com | €4 | May–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–12:45 and 2–6; Oct.–Apr., Mon. and Wed.–Sat. 10–12:15 and 2–5:30, Sun. 2–5:30.

Fragments of the town’s medieval ramparts include the 15th-century Tour de la Bridolle (Pl. de la République | 35500), five blocks up from the castle.

The church of Notre-Dame (Pl. Notre-Dame | 35500), with its fine, pinnacled south front, was built in the 15th and 16th centuries. There are at least 10 other picturesque historical sites, from medieval postern gateways to the 14th-century Saint Nicolas hospital chapel (now a museum of religious art) within town; other jewels, such as Madame de Sévigné’s Château-Musée des Roches-Sévigné, are set in the nearby countryside. Inquire at the tourist office for details.

WHERE TO STAY IN VITRÉ

Le Petit Billot.

¢ | Carved paneling in the breakfast room and faded pastel tones give this small family-run hotel a delightful French provincial air. Rooms may not be spacious but are spic-and-span, and a steal at the price. The hotel has an informal relationship with Le Potager, the restaurant right next door, which serves reliable, though rather unexciting, Breton cuisine (closed Monday, no lunch Saturday, no dinner Sunday). Pros: family ambience; great value. Cons: rooms are small; most have only shower not bath. | 5 bis, pl. du Général-Leclerc | 35500 | 02–99–75–02–10 | www.petit-billot.com | 21 rooms, 4 with bath | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | EP.

RENNES

36 km (22 mi) west of Vitré via D857 and N157, 345 km (215 mi) west of Paris, 107 km (66 mi) north of Nantes.

Packed with students during the school year, studded with sterile 18th-century granite buildings, and yet graced with medieval houses, Rennes (pronounced wren) is the traditional gateway to Brittany. Since the province was joined to Paris in 1532, Rennes has been the site of squabbles with the national capital, many taking place in the Rennes’s Palais de Justice, long the political center of Brittany and the one building that survived a terrible fire in 1720 that lasted a week and destroyed half the city. The remaining cobbled streets and 15th-century half-timber houses form an interesting contrast to the classical feel of the cathedral and Jacques Gabriel’s disciplined granite buildings, broad avenues, and spacious squares. Many of the 15th- and 16th-century houses in the streets surrounding the cathedral have been converted into shops, boutiques, restaurants, and crêperies. The cavalier manner in which the French go about running a bar out of a 500-year-old building can be disarming to New Worlders.

Getting Here and Around

The TGV Atlantique travels faster than a speeding bullet from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse to Rennes (2¼ hrs, €55), leaving every two hours or so, and through to Brest, while a branch line heads to St-Malo. Rennes’s Gare SNCF (Place de la Gare) is about a 20-minute walk from the heart of the city. Trains leave for Paris (2¼ hrs), Nantes (2 hrs), St-Malo (55 mins), and Bordeaux (6 hrs). The Gare Routière is next to the train station, but it’s not the safest place to hang out. Buses go to Nantes (2 hrs), St-Malo (2 hrs), Dinan (1 hr), and Mont-St-Michel (85 mins). Rennes’s city bus system, STAR, will deliver you to almost any destination in town. There are also Ryanair flights to Rennes from England (London Stansted).

Visitor Information

Rennes Tourist Office.

| 11 rue St-Yves | 35000 | 02–99–67–11–11 | en.tourisme-rennes.com.

EXPLORING RENNES

The capital of Brittany, Rennes is one of the liveliest cities in the region. During the school year, the town rhythm is set by some 40,000 students. Although summer seems to happen elsewhere for most Rennais, it is still a pleasant time to wander the city’s cafés and bookstores.

The Parlement de Bretagne (Rue Nationale | 35000 | www.parlement-bretagne.com), the palatial original home of the Breton Parliament and now of the Rennes law courts, was designed in 1618 by Salomon de Brosse, architect of the Luxembourg Palace in Paris. It was the most important building in Rennes to escape the 1720 flames, but in 1994, following a massive demonstration by Breton fishermen demanding state subsidies, a disastrous fire broke out at the building, leaving it a charred shell. Fortunately, much of the artwork—though damaged—was saved by firefighters, who arrived at the scene after the building was already engulfed in flames. It was a case of the alarm that cried “fire” once too often; a faulty bell, which rang regularly for no reason, had led the man on duty to ignore the signal. Restoration has now been completed. Call the tourist office (02–99–67–11–66 to book a 90-minute guided tour [€6.80]).

The Musée de Bretagne (Museum of Brittany) reopened in 2006 in brand-new headquarters designed by superstar architect Christian de Portzamparc and now occupies a vast three-part space that it shares with the Rennes municipal library and Espaces des Sciences. Portzamparc’s layout harmonizes nicely with the organization of the museum’s extensive ethnographic and archaeological collection, which, chronologically ordered, depicts the everyday life of Bretons from prehistoric times up to the present. There’s also a space devoted to the famous Dreyfus Affair; Alfred Dreyfus, an army captain who was wrongly accused of espionage and whose case was championed by Émile Zola, was tried a second time in Rennes in 1899. | 10 cours des Allies | 35000 | 02–23–40–66–70 | www.musee-bretagne.fr | €4 museum, €7 including exhibitions | Tues. noon–9, Wed.–Fri. noon–7, weekends 2–7.

The Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum) contains works by Georges de La Tour, Jean-Baptiste Chardin, Camille Corot, Paul Gauguin, and Maurice Utrillo, to name a few. The museum is particularly strong in French 17th-century paintings and drawings, and has an interesting collection of modern French artists. Please note that the second floor was closed for renovation of unspecified duration at this writing. | 20 quai Émile-Zola | 35000 | 02–23–62–17–45 | www.mbar.org | €4.58 | Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–6.

A late-18th-century building in Classical style that took 57 years to construct, the Cathédrale St-Pierre looms above Rue de la Monnaie at the west end of the Vieille Ville (Old Town), bordered by the Rance River. Stop in to admire its richly decorated interior and outstanding 16th-century Flemish altarpiece. | Pl. St-Pierre | 35000 | Mon.–Sat. 8:30–noon and 2–5, Sun. 8:30–noon.

Take care to stroll through the lovely Parc du Thabor (Pl. St-Melaine | 35000), east of the Palais des Musées. It’s a large, formal French garden with regimented rows of trees, shrubs, and flowers, and a notable view of the church of Notre-Dame-en-St-Melaine.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN RENNES

Picca.

$$ | FRENCH | Around the corner from the Palais de Justice and next to the municipal theater is this oddly named brasserie that serves Patrick Pochic’s traditional Breton cuisine, ranging from scallops to entrecôte steaks. Its huge, sunny terrace is the perfect place to people-watch while downing a half dozen fresh oysters and an aperitif. The prix-fixe menu is €13.50. | 15 Galeries du Théâtre | 35000 | 02–99–78–17–17 | MC, V.

Garden.

¢–$ | With all rooms overlooking a picturesque, stone-lined, trelliage-bedecked garden, this hotel likes to welcome visitors to “silent nights”—restful, too, thanks to the guest room decor. As charmant as they come, they are stylishly wrought in cheery pink and orange pastels, wicker-wood headboards, and fetching wood-trim furniture. Breakfast is served in the garden when possible, and its age-old wooden gallery makes this sunny inner courtyard a sweet place to reboot yourself. Room 202 is the most spacious. Pros: pretty architecture; handy for sites. Cons: rooms small; parking difficult. | 3 rue Jean-Marie-Duhamel | 35000 | 02–99–65–45–06 | www.hotel-garden.fr | 25 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: some pets allowed | AE, MC, V.

LeCoq-Gadby.

$$$–$$$$ | A 19th-century mansion with huge fireplaces and antiques sets the stage for this cozy retreat. Homey guest rooms have four-poster beds and floral covers, while hydrotherapy facilities, a hammam (steam room), a Jacuzzi, and a sauna are all available if you want to be pampered. Pierre Le Grand’s cuisine must be good—French presidents have dined here on such delicacies as pigeonneau en cocotte au beurre salé (pigeon casserole with salted butter). Book way in advance for this popular hotel and restaurant (closed Sunday). Pros: manorial ambience; great cuisine. Cons: hotel rooms often booked solid; small portions in restaurant. | 156 rue d’Antrain | 35700 | 02–99–38–05–55 | www.lecoq-gadby.com | 14 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.

Mercure Rennes Place de Bretagne.

$$–$$$ | Ranging in style from Rococo revisited to severe Neoclassical, these three side-by-side stately 19th-century buildings add up to one centrally located good option. On a quiet, narrow backstreet close to the cathedral—and a few blocks away from the town’s main museums, opera, and theaters—the hotel offers a sleek, minimal-meets-trad interior. In the lobby, clocks toll the hours in countries around the world, while modern, clean-as-a-pin guest rooms, all in beiges and maroons, offer tranquil havens for businesspeople and weary travelers. Pros: city-center location; quiet rooms. Cons: bland decor; no restaurant. | 6 rue Lanjuinais | 35000 | 02–99–79–12–36 | www.mercure.com | 48 rooms | In-room: a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN RENNES

The streets around Place Ste-Anne are jammed with popular student bars, most of them housed in fantastic medieval buildings with character to spare.

If you feel like dancing the night away, head to L’Espace (45 bd. de la Tour d’Auvergne | 35000 | 02–99–30–21–95). For the night owl, Pym’s Club (27 pl. du Colombier | 35000 | 02–99–67–30–00), with three dance floors, stays open all night, every night.

Brittany’s top classical music venue is the Opéra de Rennes (Pl. de l’Hôtel de Ville | 35000 | 02–99–78–48–78 | www.opera-rennes.fr). All kinds of performances are staged at the Théâtre National de Bretagne (10 av. Louis-Barthou | 35000 | 02–99–35–27–74). The famous annual international rock-and-roll festival, Les Transmusicales (02–99–31–12–10 for information), happens the second week of December in bars around town and at the Théâtre National de Bretagne.

The first week of July sees Les Tombées de la Nuit (02–99–32–56–56 | www.lestombeesdelanuit.com), the “Nightfalls” Festival, featuring crowds, Celtic music, dance, and theater performances staged in old historic streets and churches around town.

SHOPPING IN RENNES

A lively market is held on Place des Lices on Saturday morning.

COMBOURG

40 km (25 mi) north of Rennes via D137 and D795.

The pretty lakeside village of Combourg is dominated by the boyhood home of Romantic writer Viscount René de Chateaubriand (1768–1848), the thick-wall, four-tower Château de Combourg (Cat’s Tower) that is perhaps Brittany’s most celebrated castle. Topped with “witches’ cap” towers that the poet likened to Gothic crowns, the castle dates mainly from the 14th and 15th centuries. Here, quartered in the tower called “La Tour du Chat,” accompanied by roosting birds, a sinister quiet, and the ghost of a wooden-legged Comte de Combourg—whose false leg would reputedly get up and walk by itself—the young René succumbed to the château’s moody spell and, in turn, became a leading light of Romanticism. His novel Atala and René, about a tragic love affair between a French soldier and a Native American maiden, was an international sensation in the mid-19th century, while his multivolume History of Christianity was required reading for half of Europe. The château grounds—ponds, woods, and cattle-strewn meadowland—are suitably mournful and can seem positively desolate when viewed under leaden skies. Its melancholy is best captured in Chateaubriand’s famous Mémoires d’outre-tombe (Memories from Beyond the Tomb). Inside you can view neo-Gothic salons, the Chateaubriand archives, and the writer’s severe bedroom up in the “Cat’s Tower.” | 02–99–73–22–95 | www.combourg.net | €7, park only €2.50 | Château (guided tours only) Apr.–Oct., Sun.–Fri. 2–5:30; park Apr.–Oct., Sun.–Fri. 9–noon and 2–6.

DINAN

35 km (20 mi) west of Combourg.

Getting Here and Around

If you come to Dinan by train, you’ll arrive in the Art Deco train station (Place du 11-Novembre-1918). Trains from Rennes take just over an hour and involve a change at Dol (€16). CAT buses transfer from the train stations in St-Malo (1 hr) and Dinard (45 mins). TAE buses also connect Dinan to Rennes (1¼ hrs) several times a day. No buses run on Sunday.

Visitor Information

Dinan Tourist Office.

| 9 rue du Château | 22100 | 02–96–87–69–76 | www.dinan-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING DINAN

During the frequent wars that devastated other cities in the Middle Ages, the merchants who ruled Dinan got rich selling stuff to whichever camp had the upper hand, well aware that loyalty to any side, be it the French, the English, or the Breton, would eventually lead to the destruction of their homes. The strategy worked: today Dinan is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Brittany. Although there’s no escaping the crowds here in summer, in the off-season or early morning Dinan feels like a time-warped medieval playground.

Like Montmuran, Dinan has close links with warrior-hero Bertrand du Guesclin, who won a famous victory here in 1359 and promptly married a local girl, Tiphaine Raguenel. When he died in the siege of Châteauneuf-de-Randon in Auvergne (central France) in 1380, his body was dispatched home to Dinan. Owing to the great man’s popularity, only his heart completed the journey (it rests in the basilica); the rest of him was confiscated by devoted followers along the way.

Along Place des Merciers, Rue de l’Apport, and Rue de la Poissonnerie, take note of the splendid gabled wooden houses. Rue du Jerzual, which leads down to Dinan’s harbor, is also a beautifully preserved medieval street, divided halfway down by the town walls and the massive Porte du Jerzual gateway and lined with restaurants, boutiques, and crafts shops in the converted 15th- and 16th-century warehouses. In summer, boats make the 2-hour, 45-minute trip down the Rance River to St-Malo (€29 round-trip); call | 08–25–13–81–10 for details. Or you can head upstream on a one-hour round-trip on an old longboat, the Jaman IV, through a lock to the medieval abbey of St-Magloire, and learn how Napoléon canalized the Rance to enable French boats to cut across to the Atlantic and avoid English warships in the English Channel (€9 round-trip); check | www.vedettejamaniv.com. Above the harbor, near Porte St-Malo, is the leafy Promenade des Grands Fossés, the best-preserved section of the town walls, which leads to the castle.

For a superb view of town, climb to the top of the medieval Tour de l’Horloge (Clock Tower). | Passage de la Tour de l’Horloge | 22100 | 02–96–87–58–72 | €3 | Apr. and May, daily 2–6; June–Sept., daily 10–6:30.

Du Guesclin’s heart lies in the north transept of the Basilique St-Sauveur (Pl. St-Sauveur | 22100). The church’s style ranges from the Romanesque south front to the Flamboyant Gothic facade and Renaissance side chapels. The old trees in the Jardin Anglais (English Garden) behind the church provide a nice frame. More spectacular views can be found at the bottom of the garden, which looks down the plummeting Rance Valley to the river below.

The stolidly built, fortresslike Château, at the end of the Promenade des Petits Fossés, has a two-story tower, the Tour du Coëtquen, and a 100-foot, 14th-century donjon (keep) containing a museum with varied displays of medieval effigies and statues, Breton furniture, and locally made lace coiffes (head coverings). | Porte de Guichet | 22100 | 02–96–39–45–20 | mairie-dinan.com | €4.50 | June–Oct., daily 10–6:30; Nov., Dec., and Feb.–May, daily 1:30–5:30.

WHERE TO STAY IN DINAN

Arvor.

¢–$ | The cobbled streets of the Vieille Ville are visible from this comfortable 18th-century hotel directly across from the town theater. It offers clean and simple rooms, in pastel tones with rustic wooden furniture—Nos. 11 and 21 are largest, with pleasing views over the old town; rooms on the top floor have sloping ceilings. Service under owner Monsieur Renault is personal and friendly, and free on-site parking is a real plus in the busy town center. Pros: central; pleasant views from most rooms. Cons: hard to park; cramped bathrooms. | 5 rue Auguste-Pavie | 22100 | 02–96–39–21–22 | hotelarvordinan.com | 24 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Internet. In-hotel: some pets allowed | DC, MC, V | Closed Jan.

D’Avaugour.

$$–$$$ | Set on the town ramparts, with pretty sash windows, mansard roofs, and a Breton stone facade, this hotel has a sunny flower garden, which the best rooms (such as No. 19 and No. 28) overlook, and where breakfast and afternoon tea are served. Start the day with the full buffet breakfast and a chat with the charming owner, Nicolas Caron, who enjoys speaking English and helping everyone plan day trips. There’s a colorful street market opposite the hotel every Thursday. Pros: great breakfasts; friendly welcome. Cons: can be noisy; not all rooms have a view. | 1 pl. du Champ | 22100 | 02–96–39–07–49 | www.avaugourhotel.com | 21 rooms, 3 suites | In-room: no a/c, Internet. In-hotel: some pets allowed | MC, V | Closed Nov.–Feb. | BP.

SHOPPING IN DINAN

One of the leading craft havens in France, Dinan has attracted many wood-carvers, jewelers, leather workers, glass specialists, and silk painters, who have set up shop in the medieval houses that line the cobbled, sloping Rue de Jerzual. Other delightful studios and artisan boutiques can be found on the nearby Rue de l’Apport, Place des Merciers, and Place des Cordeliers.

CANCALE

86 km (54 mi) northwest of Rennes via N137 and D210.

Nothing says Brittany like seafood and nothing says seafood like this village, one of the most picturesque fishing village in Brittany. Head here using buses from St-Malo and then make for the countless stalls or restaurants along the quay, where you can enjoy the bounty of Cancale, renowned for its offshore bancs d’huîtres (oyster beds). You can sample the little brutes here or have a real seafood feast at the culinary mecca not far from town, the Château Richeux.

The Musée de la Ferme Marine (Sea Farm Museum) just south of town explains everything you ever wanted to know about farming oysters and has a display of 1,500 different types of shells. | L’Aurore | 35350 | 02–99–89–69–99 | www.ferme-marine.com | €6.80 | Guided 1-hr tours in English, July–mid-Sept., daily at 2.

WHERE TO STAY IN CANCALE

Fodor’s Choice | Château Richeux.

$$$$ | Hélas! The famed Breton gastronomic shrine known as the Maisons de Bricourt shrine is no more—superstar chef Olivier Roellinger hung up his toque because of health problems in 2008. Happily, his family still presides over their beautiful hotel empire, including the castellated 1920s waterfront Château Richeux. Even better, readers rave about Le Coquillage, the hotel’s small bistro, which specializes in local oysters and seafood platters served up in a relaxed, cozy atmosphere. As the only eatery left under the master’s own hand, it provides some consolation (with a menu at €26) for those who’ll miss the now-defunct Maison de Bricourt. The Richeux is built on the ruins of the Du Guesclin family’s 11th-century château, 5 km (3 mi) south of Cancale, and is surrounded by a “Celtic garden.” Request one of the rooms with large bay windows, which have stunning views of Mont-St-Michel. Several miles away are two other, more private hotel options, Les Rimains, four guest rooms set in a very handsome Breton stone house, perched over Cancale’s harbor, along with Gîtes Marins, two airy, almost Cape Cod—style seaside vacation houses fit for several people. Pros: famous cuisine; picturesque setting. Cons: isolated site. | Le Point du Jour, St-Méloir des Ondes | 35350 | 02–99–89–64–76 | www.maisons-de-bricourt.com | 13 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

SHOPPING IN CANCALE

Sublime tastes of Brittany—salted butter caramels, fruity sorbets, rare honeys, and heirloom breads—are sold in upper Cancale at the Roellingers’s Grain de Vanille (12 pl. de la Victoire | 35350 | 02–23–15–12–70). Tables beckon, so why not sit a spell and enjoy a cup of “Mariage” tea and—Brittany in a bite—some cinnamon-orange-flavor malouine cookies? Mr. Roellinger’s newest addition to his culinary empire, Les Entrepôts Épices-Roellinger (1 rue Duguesclin | 35350 | 02–99–89–64–76), is dedicated to the exotic spices he personally searched the world to find. A treasure trove of single spices, along with his signature spice blends—such as Poudre Curry Corsaire, for mussels and shellfish; and Poudre du Vent, for squab or cream sauces—exotic peppers, fleur de sel, and choice vanillas.

ST-MALO

23 km (14 mi) west of Cancale via coastal D201.

Thrust out into the sea, bound to the mainland only by tenuous manmade causeways, romantic St-Malo—”the pirates’ city”—has built a reputation as a breeding ground for phenomenal sailors. Many were fishermen, but St-Malo’s most famous sea dogs were corsairs, pirates paid by the French crown to harass the Limeys across the Channel. Robert Surcouf and Duguay-Trouin were just two of these privateers who helped make this town rich through piratical pillages. Today, the town has plenty of picturesque coastal sights.

Getting Here and Around

The train station (Square Jean-Coquelin) is a 15-minute walk from the walled town—walk straight up Avenue Louis-Martin. Half a dozen trains daily make the 45-mi trip from Rennes to St-Malo (55–80 mins, €16); a TGV express from Paris’s Gare Montparnassse arrives several times a day in Rennes, where you can transfer. Trains also connect St-Malo to Dol (15 mins) and Dinan via Dol (65 mins), but the bus is cheaper and faster. TIV runs buses to Rennes (1¾ hrs), Dinard (40 mins), and Cancale (30 mins). CAT makes the trip to Dinan (35 mins) and Les Courriers Bretons makes the 1¼-hour journey to Mont-St-Michel. Buses leave from the Gare Routière, immediately outside the intra-muros (within the walls) Old Town. You can also ferry from here to Dinan and Dinard via Emeraude Lines.

Visitor Information

St-Malo Tourist Office.

| Esplanade St-Vincent | 35400 | 02–99–56–64–48 | www.saint-malo-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING ST-MALO

Facing Dinard across the Rance Estuary, the stone ramparts of St-Malo have withstood the pounding of the Atlantic since the 12th century, the founding date of the town’s main church, the Cathédrale St-Vincent (on Rue St-Benoît). The ramparts were considerably enlarged and modified in the 18th century, and now extend from the castle for more than 1½ km (1 mi) around the Vieille Ville—known as intra-muros. The views are stupendous, especially at high tide. The town itself has proved less resistant: a weeklong fire in 1944, kindled by retreating Nazis, wiped out nearly all the old buildings. Restoration work was more painstaking than brilliant, but the narrow streets and granite houses of the Vieille Ville were satisfactorily re-created, enabling St-Malo to regain its role as a busy fishing port, seaside resort, and tourist destination. The ramparts themselves are authentic and the flames also spared houses along Rue de Pelicot in the Vieille Ville. Battalions of tourists invade this quaint part of town in summer, so if you want to avoid crowds, don’t come then.

At the edge of the ramparts is the 15th-century château (Town History Museum), whose great keep and watchtowers command an impressive view of the harbor and coastline. It houses the Musée d’Histoire de la Ville, devoted to the great figures—from Jacques Cartier to Châteaubriand, “Father of Romanticism”—who have touched local history, and the Galerie Quic-en-Grogne, a museum in a tower, where various episodes and celebrities from St-Malo’s past are recalled by way of waxworks. | Hôtel de Ville | 35400 | 02–99–40–71–57 | www.st-malo.fr/decouvrir/musee-histoire.xhtmll | €5.40 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–12:30 and 2–6; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–6.

Five hundred yards offshore is the Ile du Grand Bé, a small island housing the somber military tomb of the great Romantic writer Viscount René de Chateaubriand, who was born in St-Malo. The islet can be reached by a causeway at low tide only.

The “Bastille of Brittany,” the Fort National, also offshore and accessible by causeway at low tide only, is a massive fortress with a dungeon constructed in 1689 by that military-engineering genius Sébastien de Vauban. | 02–99–85–34–33 | www.fortnational.com | €4 | June–Sept., daily 10:30–6 depending on tides (see Web site).

You can pay homage to Jacques Cartier, who set sail from St-Malo in 1535 on a voyage in which he would discover the St. Lawrence River and found Québec, at his tomb in the church of St-Vincent (Grand-Rue | 35400). His statue looks out over the town ramparts, four blocks away, along with that of swashbuckling corsair Robert Surcouf (hero of many daring 18th-century raids on the British navy), eternally wagging an angry finger over the waves at England.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN ST-MALO

Chalut.

$$$ | FRENCH | The reputation of this small restaurant with nautical decor has grown since chef Jean-Philippe Foucat decided to emphasize fresh seafood. The succinct menus change as frequently as the catch of the day. Try the sautéed John Dory with fresh coriander or the fresh lobster in lime. | 8 rue de la Corne-de-Cerf | 35400 | 02–99–56–71–58 | MC, V | Closed Mon. and Tues.

Le Saint-Placide.

$$$$ | FRENCH | This sleek, modern dining room is garnering serious accolades in a town where talent is in no short supply. Chef Luc Mobihan’s impeccable cuisine, with a soft spot for local seafood, brilliantly harmonizes flavors to draw out the intrinsic qualities of the fish or meat without overpowering. Lobster risotto is both rich and light, and tender lamb rolled in a buttery phylo literally melts in the mouth. With four prix-fixe menus to choose from, including the “Mélanosporum” all-truffle formule, diners have the pleasure of sampling a range of dishes from this talented chef. | 6 Place du Poncel | 35400 | 02–99–81–70–73 | AE, MC, V | Closed Tues., Wed., Feb., and last 2 wks in June.

Beaufort.

$$–$$$ | A gracious welcome and infinite sea views are first to greet you at this beachfront hotel, handsomely accented with a terra-cotta facade and stylish mansard roof. Tastefully decorated in pale earth tones, the guest rooms are bright, comfortable, and meant to harmonize with the sea and sky just outside your window or private terrace, should you be lucky enough to nab one of the six on offer. Bathrooms are petite but modern and well equipped. Although meals are limited to a bountiful continental breakfast, a lovely café-bar area, overlooking an expanse of beach and sea, offers wines, teas, and coffees throughout the day. For sports lovers, the famed La Digue promenade just in front is ideal for an early morning jog along the beach. Pros: few minutes’ ride to the intra-muros Old Town and walking distance from good restaurants and shops. Cons: rooms are on the small side and not all face the water. | 25 Chaussée du Sillon | 35400 | 02–99–40–99–99 | www.hotel-beaufort.com | 22 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, parking (paid) | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

Elizabeth.

$–$$ | Done up with impressive style, this 17th-century town house, built into the ancient city walls and near the Porte St-Louise, is a little gem of sophistication in touristy St-Malo. The lobby welcomes with large sash windows, 400-year-old wood beams, and comfy mod furniture. Downstairs, breakfast is served in a majestic cellar with ancient stone walls and beams; upstairs, five floors of guest rooms in “Les Armateurs” attempt to channel the spirit of the fabled privateer Robert Surcouf with the use of Breton antiques. The most spacious rooms are on the top floor: No. 509 has a fine view of the harbor, No. 510 of the intra-muros Old Town. Next door, “Les Skippers” is a smaller abode with north-facing rooms with handsome but more modern decors. Pros: central; good value. Cons: hard to park; big difference between bland rooms and stylish suites. | 2 rue des Cordiers, | 35400 | 02–99–56–24–98 | www.st-malo-hotel-elizabeth.com | 17 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: some pets allowed | MC, V | BP.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN ST-MALO

Bar de l’Univers (12 pl. Chateaubriand | 35400) is a nice spot to enjoy sipping a drink in a pirate’s-lair setting. La Belle Époque (11 rue de Dinan | 35400) is a popular hangout for all ages until the wee hours. L’Éscalier (La Buzardière, Rue de la Tour-du-Bonheur | 35400) is the place for dancing the night away.In summer, performances are held at the Théâtre Chateaubriand (6 rue du Grout-de-St-Georges | 35400 | 02–99–40–98–05). Bastille Day (July 14) sees the Fête du Clos Poulet, a town festival with traditional dancing. July and August bring a monthlong religious music festival, the Festival de la Musique Sacrée.

SHOPPING IN ST-MALO

A lively outdoor market is held in the streets of Old St-Malo every Tuesday and Friday.

DINARD

13 km (8 mi) west of St-Malo via Rance Bridge.

Dinard is the most elegant resort town on this stretch of the Brittany coast. Its picture-book perch on the Rance Estuary opposite the walled town of St-Malo lured the English aristocracy here in droves toward the end of the 19th century. What started out as a small fishing port soon became a seaside mecca of lavish Belle Époque villas (more than 400 still dot the town and shoreline), grand hotels, and a bustling casino.

Getting Here and Around

No trains head here, so you have to train to St-Malo, then transfer to a bus (frequent departures, €3) for the 15-minute ride to Dinard. From April to September a ferryboat links the two towns (10 minutes, €6). Buses arrive here from Rennes and other towns in Brittany.

Visitor Information

Dinard Tourist Office (2 bd. Féart | 35800 | 02–99–46–94–12 | www.ot-dinard.com).

EXPLORING DINARD

While a number of modern establishments punctuate the landscape, Dinard still retains something of an Edwardian tone. To make the most of Dinard’s beauty, head down to the Pointe de la Vicomté, at the town’s southern tip, where the cliffs offer panoramic views across the Baie du Prieuré and Rance Estuary, or stroll along the narrow promenade.

The Promenade Clair de Lune hugs the seacoast on its way toward the English Channel and passes in front of the small jetty used by boats crossing to St-Malo. In Dinard, the road weaves along the shore and is adorned with luxuriant palm trees and mimosa blooms, which, from July to the end of September, are illuminated at dusk with spotlights; strollers are serenaded with recorded music. The promenade really hits its stride as it rounds the Pointe du Moulinet and heads toward the sandy Plage du Prieuré, named after a priory that once stood here. River meets sea in a foaming mass of rock-pounding surf: use caution as you walk along the slippery path to the calm shelter of the Plage de l’Écluse, an inviting sandy beach bordered by the casino and numerous stylish hotels. The coastal path picks up on the west side of Plage de l’Écluse, ringing the Pointe de la Malouine and the Pointe des Étêtés before arriving at the Plage de St-Énogat.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN DINARD

Didier Méril.

$$$–$$$$ | FRENCH | Nudging right up to the beach in Dinard’s historic center, this chic restaurant serves up gourmet fare along with breathtaking sea views. Chef Méril takes his inspiration from the local bounty, with seafood front and center. Fresh-from-the-sea dishes, such as salty-sweet Cancale oysters, ricassée de langoustines, and Trilogie de poisson with lobster coulis vie with Breton specialties, like terrine paysanne au sanglier (wild boar), on four fixed-price menus. An impressive pages-long wine list, boasting 450 wines from every region imaginable, satisfies the most discerning wine snob. In warm weather, the seaside terrace is a fine place to enjoy a frosty glass of champagne or a cigar from the cave à cigars, if so inclined. For lodging, six stylish rooms come with some endearing quirks. For example, the top floor’s room No. 6 offers spectacular ocean vistas from the bed or the bathtub, as it’s smack in the center of the room. | 1 pl. du Général de Gaulle | 35800 | 02–99–46–95–74 | www.restaurant-didier-meril.com | AE, MC, V | BP.

Printania.

$–$$ | Replete with verandas, charmingly folkloric Breton wood carvings, and a low-key Napoléon III vibe, Le Printania enjoys a sweet perch right on Dinan’s Clair de Lune promenade. Many of the guest rooms face the water with “le cité corsaire”—St-Malo—looming in the distance; they’re furnished with regional touches, with fine wood chairs and original paintings, rather than prints, of local scenes. The best ones have a balcony and sea view (ask for Nos. 101, 102, 211, or 311). Seafood and regional dishes are served in the riotously colorful waterfront dining room by waitresses in regional costume. Pros: friendly, tasteful room decor; full board plan entices thanks to tempting food. Cons: sturdy recent price hikes; some rooms lack a view. | 5 av. George-V | 35800 | 02–99–46–13–07 | www.printaniahotel.com | 55 rooms | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, Internet terminal | MC, V | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. | FAP.

Villa Reine-Hortense.

$$$–$$$$ | All the Napoléon-III glamour of 19th-century-resort France is yours when you stay at this folie—a villa built by the Russian Prince Vlassov in homage to his “queen,” Hortense de Beauharnais (daughter of Napoléon’s beloved Joséphine and mother to Emperor Napoléon III). A magical grand salon topped with a trompe-l’oeil treillage, guest rooms with soaring, fairy-tale beds crowned with Empire-style canopies, and glamorous beach views are just some of the delights on tap here. The lucky guest who lands Room 4 will even get to bathe in Queen Hortense’s own silver-plated bathtub. Pros: high-style paradise; intimate; quirky. Cons: a bit “de trop”; une folie. | 19 rue de la Malouine | 35800 | 02–99–46–54–31 | www.villa-reine-hortense.com | 8 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Internet. In-hotel: bar, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | Closed Oct.–Mar. | FAP.

NIGHTLIFE IN DINARD

During July and August, stretches of the Clair de Lune promenade become a nighttime son-et-lumière wonderland, thanks to spotlights and recorded music. The main nightlife activity in town is at the casino (4 bd. du Président-Wilson | 35800 | 02–99–16–30–30).

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS IN DINARD

For windsurfing, wander over to the Wishbone Club (Digue de l’Écluse | 35800 | 02–99–88–15–20). Boats can be rented from the Yacht Club (Promenade Clair de Lune | 35800 | 02–99–46–14–32).

PAIMPOL

92 km (57 mi) west of Cap Fréhel via D786, 45 km (28 mi) northwest of St-Brieuc.

Paimpol is one of the liveliest fishing ports in the area and a good base for exploring this part of the coast. The town is a maze of narrow streets lined with shops, restaurants, and souvenir boutiques. The harbor, where fishermen used to unload their catch from far-off seas, is its main focal point; today most fish are caught in the Channel. From the sharp cliffs you can see the coast’s famous pink-granite rocks. For centuries, but now no longer, Breton fishermen sailed to Newfoundland each spring to harvest cod—a long and perilous journey. The Fête des Terres-Neuves is a celebration of the traditional return from Newfoundland of the Breton fishing fleets; it’s held on the third Sunday in July. From Paimpol, trains go to Guingamp, and CAT buses go to St-Brieuc; both towns are on the Paris–Brest TGV line.

WHERE TO STAY IN PAIMPOL

Le K’Loys.

$–$$ | Built in the late 19th century for a prominent ship owner, this picturesque stone house nestles right up to Paimpol’s main quay, with a view over a yacht and sailboat-stocked marina. Most of the 17 rooms have harbor views, and, if you’re lucky enough to nab No. 6, breakfast can be had on your own flower-bedecked balcony. Or if you prefer to catch some moonbeams, the Capitaine room offers a glass ceiling and splendid views from the bed. Although this family-run hotel focuses mostly on comfort and coziness rather than all-out luxury, the rooms—many with fireplaces and asian rugs—are quaintly decorated with traditional Breton touches, includingclassic armoires. The L’Islandais restaurant-creperie, in an old cod fisherman’s house, offers traditional Breton fare, including a bargain €18.50 menu. Pros: afternoon tea in the glassed-in tearoom is a delight; easy walk to the beach and the old town. Cons: some rooms lack a view. | 21 Quai Morand | 22500 | 02–96–20–40–01 | www.hotel-restaurant-soiree-vrp-paimpol-cotes-d-armor.k-loys.com | 17 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed, parking (paid) | AE, MC, V | BP.

TRÉBEURDEN

46 km (27 mi) west of Paimpol via D786 and D65, 9 km (6 mi) northwest of Lannion.

Trébeurden is just one of the scenic highlights of the Côtes d’Armor, the long stretch of Brittany’s northern coast, loosely divided into two parts, the Côte d’Emeraude (Emerald Coast) and the peaceful Côte de Granit Rose (Pink Granite Coasta). A small, pleasant fishing village that is now a summer resort town, it makes a good base for exploring the rosy-hue cliffs of the Corniche Bretonne, starting with the rocky point at nearby Le Castel.

Getting Here and Around

To get to Trébeurden or Perros-Guirec you must first take the train to Plouraret-Trégor, which is found on the main Paris-Brest train line. From there, take the train to Lannion, a town 12 km (7 mi) inland. From Lanion CAT runs several buses a day to Trébeurden, along with five buses a day to Perros-Guirec, with stops at Trestraou beach and neighboring Ploumanac’h (35 mins).

Visitor Information

Trébeurden Tourist Office.

| Pl. de Crec’h Hery | 22560 | 02–96–23–51–64 | www.trebeurden.fr.

EXPLORING TRÉBEURDEN

Trébeurden is near the center of the most picturesque stretches of the Breton coastline. Take a look at the profile of the dramatic rocks off the coast near Trégastel and Perros-Guirec and use your imagination to see La Tête de Mort (Death’s Head), La Tortoise, Le Sentinel, and Le Chapeau de Wellington (Wellington’s Hat). The coastal scene changes with the sunlight and the sweep and retreat of the tide, whose caprices can strand fishing boats among islands that were, only hours before, hidden beneath the sea.

The famous seaside footpath, the Sentier des Douaniers (www.perros-guirec.com), starts up at the west end of the Trestraou beach in the resort town of Perros-Guirec, 3 km (2 mi) east of Trébeurden; from there this beautifully manicured, fence-lined, and gorgeously scenic path provides a two-hour walk eastward, through fern forests, past cliffs and pink granite boulders to the pretty beach at Ploumanac’h. If you keep your eye out, you might even spot one of the mythical, 900-year-old Korrigans—native sprites with pointed ears, beards, and hoof feet, who come out at night from seaside grottoes to dance around fires. From Perros-Guirec you can take a boat trip out to the Sept Iles, a group of seven islets that are bird sanctuaries. On a hillside perch above Ploumanac’h is the village of La Clarté, home to the little Chapelle Notre Dame de la Clarté (Pl. de la Chapelle), built of local pink granite and decorated with 14 stations of the cross painted by the master of the Pont-Aven school, Maurice Denis. During the Pardon of la Clarté (August 15), a bishop preaches an outdoor mass for the Virgin Mary, village girls wear Trégor costumes, and the statue of the Virgin Mary wears a gold crown (she wears a fake one for the rest of the year). On Ploumanac’h’s pleasant beach, Plage de la Bastille, you’ll find the Oratoire de St-Guirec, a rose-granite chapel lodged in the sand with other rocks; facing the beach is the neo-medieval, 19th-century Château de Costaeres, where Henryk Sienkiewicz wrote Quo Vadis. Unfortunately, the magical castle-by-the-sea—whose image graces many postcards of the region—was partly destroyed by a fire and remains private property.

Five kilometers (3 mi) east of Trébeurden is Cosmopolis, home to the Radôme: a giant white radar dome, whose 340-ton antenna captured the first live TV satellite transmission from the United States to France in July 1962. Today the sphere houses a museum retracing the history of telecommunications back to the first telegraph in 1792, and spectacular laser shows that employ 200 projectors to bring the history of satellite communication to life. The site also includes one of Europe’s largest planetariums (www.planetarium-bretagne.fr | €7), and a children’s fun park, Le Village Gaulois (€4). | Pleumeur-Bodou | 22560 | 02–96–15–80–30 | www.leradome.com | €7 | Apr. and Sept., Mon. and Wed.–Fri. 10–6, weekends 2–6; May–Aug., daily 10–6.

WHERE TO STAY IN TRÉBEURDEN

Manoir de Lan-Kerellec.

$$$$ | The beauty of the Breton coastline is embraced by this Relais & Châteaux hotel, where guest rooms are far more than just comfortable. Set long and cruise-liner-low, this renovated 19th-century Breton manor house has now been outfitted with dramatic windows—plate-glass, round, panoramic—so as to frame stirring vistas of the endless sea and the cliffs of the Côte de Granit Rose (all rooms have sea views). The restaurant, with a wood-beam ceiling inspired by a ship’s hull, has a delightful model of the St-Yves ship suspended from its ceiling. It mostly serves seafood, but the roast lamb is also good; it does not serve lunch Monday through Thursday. Pros: great views; comfy rooms. Cons: pricey; restaurant only serves lunch three days a week. | 11 allée Centrale | 22560 | 02–96–15–00–00 | www.lankerellec.com | 19 rooms | In-room: no a/c (some), safe, refrigerator, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, tennis court, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. | MAP.

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Ste-Anne-la-Palud | Douarnenez | Quimper | Concarneau | Pont-Aven | Belle-Ile-en-Mer | Carnac | Auray | Vannes | La Baule | Nantes

What Brittany offers in the way of the sea handsomely makes up for its shortage of mountain peaks and passes. Its hundreds of miles of saw-tooth coastline reveal the Atlantic Ocean in its every mood and form—from the peaceful cove where waders poke about hunting seashells to the treacherous bay whose waters swirl over quicksands in unpredictable crosscurrents; from the majestic serenity of the breakers rolling across La Baule’s miles of golden-sand beaches to the savage fury of the gigantic waves that fling their force against jagged rocks 340 dizzy feet below the cliffs of Pointe du Raz.

Consisting of the territory lying west of Saint-Brieuc to the Atlantic coast a short distance east of Vannes, Lower Brittany contains in abundance all things Breton, including many of the pardons and other colorful religious ceremonies that take place hereabouts. As for bright lights, Rennes, the student-fueled mind of Brittany, gives way to poets and painters, bringing a refreshing breeze to the historical heaviness of the region. On the Atlantic coast, Nantes, the working-class heart of Brittany, pumps the economy of the region and provides a bracing swig of daily Breton life. Head inland to find a landscape studded with bent trees and craggy rocks that look like they’ve been bewitched by Merlin in a bad mood.

STE-ANNE-LA-PALUD

136 km (82 mi) southwest of Frébeurden via D767 and D787.

One of the great attractions of the Brittany calendar is the celebration of a religious festival known as a village pardon, replete with banners, saintly statues, a parade, bishops in attendance, women in folk costume, a feast, and hundreds of attendees. The seaside village of Ste-Anne-la-Palud has one of the finest and most authentic age-old pardons in Brittany, held on the last Sunday in August.

Another celebrated pardon is held in early September some 40 km (25 mi) north of Ste-Anne. Pilgrims come from afar to Le Folgoët, 24 km (15 mi) northeast of Brest, to attend the town’s ceremonial procession. Many also drink from the Fontaine de Salaün, a fountain behind the church, whose water comes from a spring beneath the altar. The splendid church, known as the Basilique, has a sturdy north tower that serves as a beacon for miles around and, inside, a rare, intricately carved granite rood screen separating the choir and nave.

WHERE TO STAY IN STE-ANNE-LA-PALUD

Hôtel de la Plage.

$$$$ | This former private mansion, with its sturdy round tower, nestles in a cove on a quiet strip of sandy beach on the Bay of Douarnenez—a remote retreat perfect for long, restorative walks. Some of the comfortably furnished guest rooms face the water, as does the glass-front restaurant, where reservations are essential. After a seafood starter (scallops, oysters, or langoustines), try the sea bass with cress and asparagus, the turbot with marrow, or the duck and foie gras with maple syrup and celery. Pros: waterfront setting; top-rank restaurant. Cons: very expensive; rather formal. | 29550 | 02–98–92–50–12 | www.plage.com | 24 rooms, 4 suites | In-room: Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, tennis court, pool, beachfront, Internet terminal, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Nov.–Apr. | MAP.

DOUARNENEZ

14 km (8 mi) south of Ste-Anne-la-Palud.

Douarnenez is a quaint old fishing town of quayside paths and zigzagging narrow streets. Boats come in from the Atlantic to unload their catches of mackerel, sardines, and tuna. Just offshore is the Ile Tristan, accessible on foot at low tide (guided tours only organized by the tourist office, €6), and across the Port-Rhu channel is Tréboul, a seaside resort town favored by French families.

One of the three town harbors is fitted out with a unique Port-Musée (Port Museum), which reopened in May 2006 after an extensive renovation program. Along the wharves you can visit the workshops of boat wrights, sailmakers, and other old-time craftspeople, then go aboard the historic trawlers, lobster boats, Thames barges, and a former lightship anchored alongside. On the first weekend in May you can sail on an antique fishing boat. | Pl. de l’Enfer | 29100 | 02–98–92–65–20 | www.port-musee.org | €7.50 | Mid-June–mid-Sept., daily 10–7; Apr.–mid-June and Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10–12:30 and 2–6; Nov.–Mar., Sun. 10–12:30 and 2–6.

WHERE TO STAY IN DOUARNENEZ

Manoir de Moëllien.

$–$$ | Surrounded by extensive forested grounds, this textbook 17th-century granite Breton manor house, landmarked by a sturdy tower and filled with precious antiques, makes an enviable choice. Another plus is the fine restaurant (open to residents only), famous for its local seafood dishes. Sample Bruno Garet’s terrine de poisson chaud (warm seafood terrine) or the duo de truites de mer (poached sea trout). Guest rooms vary greatly in size, but most have terraces overlooking the peaceful country garden. Pros: charming setting; historic atmosphere. Cons: out of the way; restaurant service can be offhand. | 12 km (7 mi) northeast of Douarnenez, | 29550 | Plonévez-Porzay | 02–98–92–50–40 | www.moellien.com | 18 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator (some), Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed mid-Nov.–Mar. | FAP.

Ty Mad.

$$–$$$ | In the 1920s artists and writers such as Picasso and Breton native Max Jacob frequented this small hotel in a quiet cove with beach in Tréboul. Since 2005 this landmark has been completely renovated and refitted with cool, light modern furnishings that blend perfectly with the white and exposed stone walls. Guest rooms are not large, but 11 of them have great sea views. A garden now adorns the property, and the separate house has been outfitted with a kitchen for larger groups and longer stays. Vincent Jugeau’s menu, served in the glass-enclosed restaurant, focuses on fresh produce sourced from neighboring farms and fish boats. Pros: delightful seaside setting; stylish modern decor. Cons: rooms are small and modestly equipped. | Plage St-Jean, | 29100 | Treboul | 02–98–74–00–53 | www.hoteltymad.com | 15 rooms | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed | MC, V | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. | MAP.

QUIMPER

22 km (14 mi) southeast of Douarnenez via D765.

A traditional crowd-puller, the twisting streets and tottering medieval houses of Quimper furnish rich postcard material, but lovers of decorative arts head here because this is the home of Quimperware, one of the more famous variants of French hand-painted earthenware pottery. The techniques were brought to Quimper by Normands in the 17th century, but the Quimpérois customized them by painting typical local Breton scenes on the pottery. Today they remain some of the most prizes French collectibles and gifts.

Getting Here and Around

The twice-daily direct TGV travels 350 mi from Paris’s Gare Montparnasse to reach Quimper’s train station, on the Avenue de la Gare, in 4 hours, 45 minutes (€90.60). Four trains each day make the 70-minute trip from Quimper to Brest (€15) and the 2-hour, 30-minute trip to Nantes (€31.40). Buses from the Gare Routière on Place Louis-Armand make infrequent connections to such destinations as Concarneau and Pont-Aven.

Visitor Information

Quimper Tourist Office (7 rue Déesse | 29000 | 02–98–53–04–05 | www.quimper-tourisme.com).

EXPLORING QUIMPER

Quimper’s lively and commercial town began life as the ancient capital of the Cornouaille province, founded, it’s said, by King Gradlon 1,500 years ago. It owes its strange name (pronounced cam-pair) to its site at the confluence (kemper in Breton) of the Odet and Steir rivers. Stroll along the banks of the Odet and through the Vieille Ville, with its cathedral. Then walk along the lively shopping street, Rue Kéréon, and down narrow medieval Rue du Guéodet (note the house with caryatids), Rue St-Mathieu, and Rue du Sallé. Have your Nikon handy.

The Cathédrale St-Corentin (Pl. St-Corentin | 29000) is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture and the second-largest cathedral in Brittany (after Dol-de-Bretagne’s). Legendary King Gradlon is represented on horseback just below the base of the spires, harmonious mid-19th-century additions to the medieval ensemble. The church interior remains very much in use by fervent Quimperois, giving the candlelighted vaults a meditative air. The 15th-century stained glass is luminous. Behind the cathedral is the stately Jardin de l’Évêché (Bishop’s Garden).

More than 400 works by such masters as Rubens, Corot, and Picasso mingle with pretty landscapes from the local Gauguin-inspired Pont-Aven school in the Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum), next to the cathedral. Of particular note is a fascinating series of paintings depicting traditional life in Breton villages. | 40 pl. St-Corentin | 29000 | 02–98–95–45–20 | www.musee-beauxarts.quimper.fr | €4.50 | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Sept.–June, Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

In the mid-18th century Quimper sprang to nationwide attention as a pottery manufacturing center, when it began producing second-rate imitations of Rouen faïence, or ceramics with blue motifs. Today’s more colorful designs, based on floral arrangements and marine fauna, are still often hand-painted. To understand Quimper’s pottery past with the help of more than 500 examples of “style Quimper,” take one of the guided tours at the Musée de la Faïence (Earthenware Museum). | 14 rue Jean-Baptiste-Bousquet | 29000 | 02–98–90–12–72 | www.quimper-faiences.com | €4 | Mid-Apr.–mid-Oct., Mon.–Sat. 10–6.

Local furniture, ceramics, and folklore top the bill at the Musée Départemental Breton (Brittany Regional Museum). | 1 rue du Roi-Gradlon | 29000 | 02–98–95–21–60 | €4 | June–Sept., daily 9–6; Oct.–May, Tues.–Sun. 9–noon and 2–5.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN QUIMPER

Chez Armande.

$$ | SEAFOOD | Concarneau—22 km (14 mi) southwest of Quimper—is a busy town known for sardine-packaging, but its Vaubau-designed fortress-islet called the Ville Close is one of the most stunning sites in Brittany. The waterfront has some fine seafood restaurants; this is the oldest and one of the best. Specialties include pot-au-feu de la mer au gingembre (seafood in a clear ginger broth), St-Pierre à la fricassée de champignons (John Dory with fried mushrooms), and homard rôti en beurre de corail (roast lobster in coral butter). Try the tarte de grand-mère aux pommes (grandma’s homemade apple pie) for dessert. | 15 bis, av. du Dr-Nicolas | 29000 | 02–98–97–00–76 | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Tues. and Wed., mid-Nov.–early Dec.

L’Ambroisie.

$$$ | FRENCH | This cozy little restaurant has soft-yellow walls, huge contemporary paintings, and different settings at every table. Chef Gilbert Guyon’s traditional yet nouvelle menu is seasonal; local products are chosen by hand. Try the buckwheat galette crêpe stuffed with egg and salmon; the fresh cod, mullet, or sole; the steamed sçlops with mushrooms and lemon juice; the sautéed crawfish with buckwheat; or the pigeon roasted in apple liqueur with whipped potatoes and mushrooms. The homemade desserts, like the omelet norvégienne with warm chocolate and nougat ice cream in meringue, are delicious. | 49 rue Élie-Fréron | 29000 | 02–98–95–00–02 | www.ambroisie-quimper.com | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.

Les Sables Blancs.

$$$–$$$$ | The sea is backdrop and motif for this spare, modern hotel, strongly reminiscent of a cruise ship. Each of the 20 bright, modern rooms offers a terrace or balcony facing the sea, where guests can indulge in an ample Breton breakfast or simply enjoy a bracing sea breeze. One of the two large suites sports enormous windows and a wraparound terrace that seems to jut out over the sea. Smaller guest rooms are in earth tones with every high-tech convenience, and many of the sleek, serviceable bathrooms boast their own sea views. A plus here is the fine dining—with, what else, plenty of fresh seafood—offered either in the handsome dining room or, weather permitting, on a large sea-facing terrace outside the bar area. Just out front is a fine example of the white sand beaches that distinguish the Morbihan coast. Pros: miles of paths on the cliffs overlooking the sea make for lovely walks; open year-round. Cons: the relentless crashing of waves can annoy light sleepers. | 20 km (12 mi) from Quimper | 45 rue Sables Blancs | 29900 | 02–98–50–10–12 | www.hotel-les-sables-blancs.com | 20 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi, In-hotel: 2 restaurants, bar, Wi-Fi hotspot, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V.

SHOPPING IN QUIMPER

Keep an eye out for such typical Breton products as woven and embroidered cloth, woolen goods, brass and wood objects, puppets, dolls, and locally designed jewelry. When it comes to distinctive Breton folk costumes, Quimper is the best place to look. The streets around the cathedral, especially Rue du Parc, are full of shops selling woolen goods (notably thick marine sweaters). Faïence and a wide selection of hand-painted pottery can be purchased at the Faïencerie d’Art Breton (16 bis, rue du Parc | 29000 | 02–98–95–34–13 | www.bretagne-faience.com).

CONCARNEAU

22 km (14 mi) southeast of Quimper via D783.

Concarneau is a industrial town known for its sardine-packaging but its Vaubau-designed Ville Close is one of the most picturesque sites in Brittany.

Getting Here and Around

No trains arrive in Concarneau, so you’ll have to come by car or bus. Buses run almost every hour until 7 PM from Quimper (40 mins, €6) and Pont-Aven (30 mins).

Visitor Information

Concarneau Tourist Office.

| Quai d’Aiguillon | 29185 | 02–98–97–01–44 | www.tourismeconcarneau.fr

EXPLORING CONCARNEAU

Sitting in the middle of Concarneau’s harbor, topped by a cupola-clocktower, and entered by way of a quaint drawbridge, the fortress-islet of the Ville Close is a particularly photogenic relic of medieval days. Its fortifications were further strengthened by the English under John de Montfort during the War of Succession (1341–64). Three hundred years later Sébastien de Vauban remodeled the ramparts into what you see today: 1 km (½ mi) long, with splendid views across the two harbors on either side. Held here during the second half of August is the Fête des Filets Bleus (Blue Net Festival), a weeklong folk celebration in which Bretons in costume swirl and dance to the wail of bagpipes. | Ramparts | €4 | Easter–Sept., daily 10–7:30; Oct.–Easter, daily 10–noon and 2–5.

Five miles away from Concarneau is the village of Beuzec-Conq, home to the Château de Keriolet.

Walt Disney would have loved this fairy-tale, neogothic extravaganza dating from the 19th century. Replete with gargoyles, storybook towers, and Flamboyant Gothic-style windows, this showpiece was constructed by the Comtesse de Chauveau, born Zenaide Narishkine Youssoupov, an imperial Russian princess who was niece to Czar Nicholas II and related to Prince Youssoupov, famed assassin of Rasputin. Hour-long tours guide you through the Arms Room, folkloric kitchen, and other grand salons. | Beuzec-Conq | 02–98–97–36–50 | www.chateaudekeriolet.com | €5 | June–Sept., daily 10:30–1 and 3–7; closed Sat. afternoons.

PONT-AVEN

37 km (23 mi) east of Quimper via D783.

Long beloved by artists, this lovely village sits astride the Aven River as it descends from the Montagnes Noires to the sea, turning the town’s mills along the way (there were once 14; now just a handful remain). Surrounded by one of Brittany’s most beautiful stretches of countryside, Pont-Aven (www.pontaven.com) is a former artists’ colony where, most famously, Paul Gauguin lived before he headed off to the South Seas.

Getting Here and Around

There are no direct trains, so take the rails to nearby Quimperlé and transfer to a bus (30 mins, €3). Buses make the 20-km (12-mi) run from Quimper (1¼ hrs) and Concarneau (30 mins) several times a day. The last buses leave early in the evening, and service is limited on Sunday.

Visitor Information

Pont-Aven Tourist Office.

| 5 pl. de l’Hôtel de Ville | 29930 | 02–98–06–04–70 | www.pontaven.com.

EXPLORING PONT-AVEN

Wanting to break with traditional Western culture and values, in 1888 lawyer-turned-painter Paul Gauguin headed to Brittany, a destination almost as foreign to Parisians as Tahiti. Economy was another lure: the Paris stock market had just crashed and, with it, Gauguin’s livelihood, so cheap lodgings were also at the top of his list. Shortly after settling in to Pont-Aven Gauguin took to wearing Breton sweaters, berets, and wooden clogs; in his art he began to leave dewy, sunlighted Impressionism behind for a stronger, more linear style. The town museum captures some of the history of the Pont-Aven School, whose adherents painted Breton landscapes in a bold yet dreamy style called syntheticism.

One glance at the Bois d’Amour forest, set just to the north of town (from the tourist office, go left and walk along the river for five minutes), will make you realize why artists continue to come here. Past some meadows, you can find Gauguin’s inspiration for his famous painting The Yellow Christ—a wooden crucifix inside the secluded Chapelle de Trémalo (usually open, per private owners, from 9 to 7) just outside the Bois d’Amour woods. While in Brittany, Gauguin painted many of his earliest masterpieces, now given pride of place in great museums around the world.

The Musée de Beaux-Arts has a photography exhibition documenting the Pont-Aven School, and works by its participants, such as Paul Sérusier, Maurice Denis, and Émile Bernard. After Gauguin departed for Tahiti, a group of Americans came here to paint, attracted by the light, the landscape, and the reputation. | Pl. de l’Hôtel-de-Ville | 29930 | 02–98–06–14–43 | www.pontaven.com | €4.50 | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Feb.–June and Sept.–Dec., daily 10–12:30 and 2–6.

The creperies and pizzerias that surround Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville cater to the lazy visitor, just emerging from the tourist office at No. 5 (02–98–06–04–70); note the office’s helpful list of chambers d’hôte accommodations offered by the residents in town.

Head to the Moulin du Grand Poulguin (2 quai Théodore-Botrel | 29930 | 02–98–06–02–67), a delightful setting in which to eat a crêpe or pizza on a terrace directly on the flowing waters of the Aven River in view of the footbridge.

Those with a sweet tooth can just fill up on the buttery Traou Mad cookies at the Biscuiterie Traou Mad (10 pl. Gauguin | 29930 | 02–98–06–01–94); they’re baked with the local wheat of the last running windmill in Pont-Aven.After exploring the village, cool off (in summer) with a boat trip down the estuary.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN PONT-AVEN

La Taupinière.

$$$$ | FRENCH | On the road from Concarneau, 3 km (2 mi) west of Pont-Aven, is this roadside inn with an attractive garden. Chef Guy Guilloux’s open kitchen (with the large hearth he uses to grill all langoustine, but also crab and fish) turns out local delicacies such as galette crêpes stuffed with spider crab and Breton ham specialties. Splurge without guilt on the light homemade rhubarb and strawberry compote. | Croissant St-André | 29930 | 02–98–06–03–12 | www.la-taupiniere.com | Reservations essential Jacket required | AE, MC, V | Closed Mon. and Tues., last 2 wks in Mar. and mid-Sept.–mid-Oct.

Fodor’s Choice | Domaine de Kerbastic.

$$$–$$$$ | Exquisite and extraordinary, this lovely gated estate—a hotel only since 2008—served as the country getaway for generations of Princesses de Polignacs and their eminent friends, including Stravinsky, Colette, and Proust. Each of the 17 rooms, decorated in flawless taste, mix family antiques with a modern aesthetic and make playful reference to some of the more prominent guests and family members, including the Cocteau room, with murals in the artist’s antic style, or the ravishing India-themed Marquise de Polignac room, with inlaid black-lacquer furnishings and sisal rugs. On chilly evenings a fire is laid in a charming salon downstairs, where one might sip an apérobefore an all-organic gourmet dinner, complete with greens from the estate’s kitchen garden. The extensive grounds are perfect for a country promenade, with splendid box-hedge-lined gardens, ancient trees, and endless fields of wildflowers. Pros: enormous marble bathrooms, with both tub and shower, all have fetching views over the grounds or gardens. Cons: somewhat off the beaten path; you can’t stay forever. | 28 km (17 mi) southeast of Pont-Aven, off major route E60, Rue de Kerbastic, Guidel | 56520 | 02–97–65–98–01 | www.domaine-de-kerbastic.com | 15 deluxe rooms | In-room: no a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, pets allowed | AE, MC, V, DC.

La Chaumière Roz-Aven.

Partly built into a rock face on the bank of the Aven, this efficiently run hotel, renovated in 2006 by new owners Valérie and Alain Bodolec, has simple, clean rooms with 18th- and 19th-century-style furnishings. You can choose from three locations: the 16th-century enchanting thatched “chaumière” house, the modern annex, or the maison bourgeoise with a river or garden view. There’s no restaurant, but there’s a tearoom and the bar serves tapas and snacks. Pros: families welcome; rooms tastefully modernized. Cons: rooms small; mattresses can be lumpy; rooms in annex lack character. | 11 quai Théodore-Botrel | 29930 | 02–98–06–13–06 | www.hotelpontaven.com | 14 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar | AE, MC, V | Closed Jan. and Feb. | MAP.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Moulin de Rosmadec.

$ | You’ll want to set up your easel in a second once you spot this pretty-as-a-picture, 15th-century stone water mill. Set at the end of a quiet street, the Sébilleaus’s beloved hostelry sits in the middle of the rushing, rocky Aven River. Inside, atmospheric beam ceilings, Breton stone fireplaces, and water views (you can hear the sound of water gently splashing over the stones beneath your window) cast their spell—but who can resist dining on the “island” terrace? Outside or inside, feast on the creations of a serious kitchen: the sauté de langoustines, duck in cassis, and lobster grillé Rosmadec are all winners. Reservations are essential; the restaurant does not serve dinner Sunday and is closed Thursday. Demand for one of the four gently priced guest rooms is high—book early. Pros: great setting; great value. Cons: distracted, unhelpful staff; attic rooms can be stuffy in midsummer. | Venelle de Rosmadec | 29930 | 02–98–06–00–22 | www.moulinderosmadec.com | 4 rooms, 1 suite | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V.

BELLE-ILE-EN-MER

45 mins by boat from Quiberon, 78 km (52 mi) southeast of Pont-Aven.

At 18 km (11 mi) long, Belle-Ile is the largest of Brittany’s islands. It also lives up to its name: it’s indeed beautiful, and less commercialized than its mainland harbor town, Quiberon. Monet created several famous paintings here, and you’ll also be tempted to set up your easel and canvases yourself.

Getting Here and Around

Take the 45-minute ferry trip (hourly July–August) to Belle-Ile’s Le Palais from Quiberon’s Gare Maritime, which can be reached in one hour by bus from Auray train station (on the Quimper–Vannes line) that runs several times daily in summer (€7).

Visitor Information

Belle-Ile-en-Mer Tourist Office.

| Quai Bonnelle, Le Palais | 56360 | 02–97–31–81–93 | www.belle-ile.com.

EXPLORING BELLE-ILE-EN-MER

Because of the cost and inconvenience of reserving car berths on the ferry, cross over to Belle-Ile as a pedestrian and rent a car—or, if you don’t mind the hilly terrain, a bicycle. Departing from Quiberon—a spa town with pearl-like beaches on the eastern side of the 16-km-long (10-mi-long) Presqu’île de Quiberon (Quiberon Peninsula), a stretch of coastal cliffs and beaches whose dramatic western coast, the Côte Sauvage (Wild Coast), is a mix of crevices and coves lashed by the sea—the ferry lands at Le Palais, crushed beneath a monumental Vauban citadel built in the 1680s.

From Le Palais head northwest to Sauzon, the prettiest fishing harbor on the island; from here you can see across to the Quiberon Peninsula and the Gulf of Morbihan.

Continue on to the Grotte de l’Apothicairerie, which derives its name from the local cormorants’ nests, said to resemble apothecary bottles.

At Port Goulphar is the Grand Phare (Great Lighthouse). Built in 1835, it rises 275 feet above sea level and has one of the most powerful beacons in Europe, visible from 120 km (75 mi) across the Atlantic. If the keeper is available and you are feeling well rested, you may be able to climb to the top.

WHERE TO STAY IN BELLE-ILE-EN-MER

Castel Clara.

$$$$ | Perched on a cliff overlooking the surf and the narrow Anse de Goulphar Bay, this ‘70s-era hotel was François Mitterrand’s address when he vacationed on Belle-Ile. The hotel still retains its presidential glamour, with its renowned spa, saltwater pool, and spectacular room views. In the bright, airy restaurant, chef Christophe Hardouin specializes in seafood, caught just offshore. The John Dory baked in sea salt and the grilled sea bream are simple but delicious. Castel Clara’s expansive wooden-deck terrace is the perfect lounging spot for cocktails at sundown. Pros: great facilities; spectacular setting. Cons: impersonal service; hard to get to. | Port-Goulphar, Bangor | 56360 | 02–97–31–84–21 | www.castel-clara.com | 59 rooms, 4 suites | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, tennis court, pool, spa, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Dec.–mid-Feb. | MAP.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN BELLE-ILE-EN-MER

Every year, from mid-July to mid-August, Belle-Ile hosts Lyrique-en-Mer (02–97–31–59–59 | www.belle-ile.net), an ambitious little festival whose heart is opera (the festival was founded by the American bass baritone, Richard Cowan) but which offers up a generous lyric menu of sacred music concerts, gospel, jazz, even the occasional sea chantey and Broadway musical number. Operas and concerts are performed by rising talents from around the world at various romantic locations around the island.

THE OUTDOORS IN BELLE-ILE-EN-MER

The ideal way to get around to the island’s 90 spectacular beaches is by bike. The best place to rent two-wheelers (and cars—this is also the island’s Avis outlet) is at Roue Libre (Pont Orgo | 56360 | 02–97–31–49–81) in Le Palais.

CARNAC

19 km (12 mi) northeast of Quiberon via D768/D781.

Visitor Information

Carnac Tourist Office.

| 74 av. des Druides | 56340 | 02–97–52–13–52 | www.ot-carnac.fr.

At the north end of Quiberon Bay, Carnac is known for its expansive beaches and its ancient stone monuments. Dating from around 4500 BC, Carnac’s menhirs remain as mysterious in origin as their English contemporary, Stonehenge, although religious beliefs and astronomy were doubtless an influence. The 2,395 megalithic monuments that make up the three alignements—Kermario, Kerlescan, and Ménec—form the largest megalithic site in the world, and are positioned with astounding astronomical accuracy in semicircles and parallel lines over about 1 km (½ mi). The site, just north of the town, is fenced off for protection, and you can examine the menhirs up close only October through March; in summer you must join a guided tour; some tours are in English (€4.50). More can be learned at the Maison des Mégalithes, a visitor center explaining the menhirs’ history and significance. | Alignements du Ménec | 56340 | 02–97–52–29–81 | carnac.monuments-nationaux.fr | Sept.–Apr., daily 10–5; May–Aug., daily 9–7.

Carnac also has smaller-scale dolmen ensembles and three tumuli (mounds or barrows), including the 130-yard-long, 38-foot-high Tumulus de St-Michel, topped by a small chapel with views of the rock-strewn countryside.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN CARNAC

Fodor’s Choice | Château de Locguénolé.

$$$–$$$$ | According to local legend, Saint Guénolé (from whom the château takes its name) took refuge on this scenic spot while fleeing the devil. Nowadays, a 19th-century château and part of the original 18th-century edifice overlook a sweeping 250-acre estate, where guests can indulge in every worldly delight. On the château’s ground floor, four stately salons remain exactly as they were when the family—who still maintains the hotel—lived here. Damask wallpaper, elegant antiques, marble fireplaces, and plenty of crystal and porcelain adorn each of the 22 guest rooms, along with stunning views over water, lush gardens, and woods. Two gorgeous suites on the first floor offer panoramic views. Superb gourmet meals can be had from several outdoor terraces but the candlelit, tapestried, and Michelin-starred dining room is hard to beat. For guests seeking a more virtuous itinerary, a “fasting” package offers every possible diversion, including walks through the estate’s ancient forests, sailing, mountain biking, swimming in a lovely outdoor pool surrounded by rose gardens, tennis, and a full range of spa treatments. Pros: peace and quiet reign; copious bathrooms are all in marble. Cons: out of the way, but well worth the detour. | Rte. de Port-Louis, 25 km (16 mi) south of Carnac, direction Hennebont | 56700 Kervignac | 02–97–76–76–76 | www.chateau-de-locguenole.com | 22 rooms, 8 suites | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi, safe. In-hotel: restaurant, Wi-Fi hotspot, pool, spa, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | FAP.

Hôtel Tumulus.

$$–$$$ | Dramatic views over Carnac and the Quiberon Bay have been a draw for this family-run hotel from its inception in the 1930s, along with its prime location just beneath the famous Tumulus Saint-Michel and its 16th-century chapel. Many of the modest but comfortable and well-equipped rooms have views to the bay, and those in back overlook the chapel. A small spa offers a surprising number of treatments—from thalasso therapy to seaweed wraps and massage, with good-value packages. Weary travelers can steep in the outdoor hot tub or take an invigorating swim in the pool. An airy dining room with lovely views offers excellent fare, with several reasonable prix-fixe menus, replete with fresh-caught seafood and a sophisticated wine list. Pros: close to Carnac’s famous menhirs; tasteful decors. Cons: some rooms on the small side; some with less-than-pristine carpets. | Chemin de Tumulus | 56340 | 02–97–52–08–21 | www.hotel-tumulus.com | 23 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi, safe. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, Wi-Fi hotspot, pool, spa, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | BP.

AURAY

16 km (10 mi) north of Carnac via D119/D768, 38 km (24 mi) southeast of Lorient.

The ancient town of Auray grew up along the banks of the Loch River, best admired from the Promenade du Loch overlooking the quayside. Cross the river to explore the old, cobbled streets of the St-Goustan neighborhood. Tied alongside the quay, across the bridge, is the Goélette St-Sauveur, an old topsail schooner that once ferried coal from Wales. Today it houses a sailing museum with many unusual nautical artifacts. | Pl. St-Sauveur | 56400 | 02–97–56–63–38 | €5 | Easter–Sept., daily 10:30–12:30 and 2:30–7.

WHERE TO EAT IN AURAY

La Closerie de Kerdrain.

$$$$ | FRENCH | Ebullient chef Fernando Corfmat presides over the kitchen in this large 17th-century town-center manor draped in wisteria. His seasonal menus highlight fresh ingredients prepared in innovative ways: sea-bass carpaccio with fresh green beans in Parmesan, scallops with hazelnuts, or breast of pigeon roasted in black pepper. The sweet-and-sour lemon pie with a salade of oranges in mango juice is the perfect way to end the meal. | 20 rue Louis-Billet | 56400 | 02–97–56–61–27 | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Mon., 3 wks in Mar., and 3 wks in Dec. No dinner Sun.

THE OUTDOORS IN AURAY

Take a cruise down the Auray River on the Navix-Vedettes du Golfe (08–25–13–21–40 | www.navix.fr); along the way you’ll discover the lovely 16th-century Château du Plessis-Kaer and the tiny, tidal fishing port of Bono tucked between the steep banks and the oyster beds of the Pô estuary.

VANNES

35 km (20 mi) east of Carnac via D768, 108 km (67 mi) southwest of Rennes.

Scene of the declaration of unity between France and Brittany in 1532, historic Vannes is one of the few towns in Brittany to have been spared damage during World War II. Though it draws visitors in droves to its wonderful vielle ville (Old Town), Vannes remains relatively untainted.

Getting Here and Around

TGVs from Paris (Gare Montparnasse) leave for Vannes twice daily (3 hrs, 20 mins; €63.80). Six trains daily (some with a change at Redon) link Vannes to Nantes (1 hr, 15 mins; €19) and trains run every hour or so between Vannes and Quimper (1 hr, €17.40). The two most useful bus companies are Cariane Atlantique and Transports Le Bayon, with frequent buses to Quiberon and Nantes (3 hrs).

Visitor Information

Vannes Tourist Office.

| 1 rue Thiers | 56000 | 02–97–47–24–34 | www.mairie-vannes.fr.

EXPLORING VANNES

The true appeal of Vannes is walking through the winding pedestrian streets, shopping at the lively outdoor market, or sipping coffee outdoors near the sedate harbor. Be sure to saunter through the Promenade de la Garenne, a colorful park, and admire the magnificent gardens nestled beneath the adjacent ramparts. Many of the prettiest sights are concentrated in the Old Town, hemmed in by Rue Thiers on the west and ramparts and gates to the east and south. The ramparts crumble prettily under ivy blankets and each gateway has a character all its own. Also visit the medieval wash houses and the cathedral; browse in the antiques shops in the pedestrian streets around pretty Place Henri-IV; check out the Cohue, the medieval market hall now used as an exhibition center; and take a boat trip around the scenic Golfe du Morbihan.

The Cathédrale St-Pierre boasts a 1537 Renaissance chapel, a Flamboyant Gothic transept portal, and a treasury. | Pl. de la Cathédrale | 56000 | Treasury mid-June–mid-Sept., Mon.–Sat. 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN VANNES

Régis Mahé.

$$$ | SEAFOOD | Step off the train and right into this popular spot, a haven of refinement where seafood reigns. Chef Régis Mahé prefers a small, seasonal menu with local handpicked produce and fish (especially mullet) so fresh they nearly swim to the plate. For a local specialty with a twist, try the buckwheat galette crêpe filled with lobster and pigeon and served with caramelized leeks. Attention chocolate lovers: save room for the warm chocolate tart with homemade salty caramel ice cream. | 24 pl. de la Gare | 56000 | 02–97–42–61–41 | MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon., and part of Feb., part of Nov., and part of June.

Fodor’s Choice | Domaine de Rochevilaine.

$$$$ | Set on the magical Pen Lan peninsula, this enchanting collection of 15th- and 16th-century Breton stone buildings resembles a tiny village; one, however, that is surrounded by terraced gardens, has a spectacular spa, and offers grand vistas of the Bay of Vilaine. Once you step through the the grand “Portail de la Verité” 13th-century entryway, the interior allures with Baroque ex-votos, Louis Treize chairs, rock-face fireplaces, and plate-glass windows. Chef Patrice Caillaut (formerly of Ledoyen and Troisgros) rules the restaurant which has a somewhat boring menu. Guest rooms sparkle with checked fabrics, veneered woods, and modern furnishings. To get your toes in the water, head to the alluring spa, the Aqua Phénica, replete with a full spectrum of seawater hydrotherapy facilities and gigantic indoor pool. Pros: stylish decor; ocean views; superb spa facilities. Cons: the staff seems to favor French guests; tons of steps from one house to another. | Pointe de Pen-Lan, 30 km (19 mi) southeast of Vannes, at tip of Pointe de Pen-Lan, | 56190 | Billiers | 02–97–41–61–61 | www.domainerochevilaine.com | 35 rooms, 3 suites | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, pools, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | FAP.

Kyriad.

$ | In an old, but thoroughly modernized, building, this hotel attracts a varied foreign clientele, drawn by the homey guest rooms—clean, bright, and simple, with check-pattern quilts and warm yellow walls—and the friendly and efficient staff. Claude Le Lausque serves a traditional menu in the long-established Image Sainte-Anne restaurant, stylishly refurbished with plush red carpet, gold and red wallpaper, and round-back designer chairs. You can’t go wrong with straightforward seasonal specialties like crab in phyllo pastry, grilled sole, and kidneys flambéed in Calvados. Pros: tastefully modernized; fine restaurant. Cons: some rooms on the small side; some a bit noisy. | 8 pl. de la Libération | 56000 | 02–97–63–27–36 | www.kyriad-vannes.fr | 33 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, Internet terminal | AE, MC, V | BP.

LA BAULE

72 km (45 mi) southeast of Vannes via N165 and D774.

Star of the Côte d’Amour coast and gifted with a breathtaking 5-km (3-mi) beach, La Baule is a popular resort town that can make you pay dearly for your coastal frolics. Though it once rivaled Biarritz, today tackiness has replaced sophistication, but you still can’t beat that sandy beach, or the lovely, miles-long seafront promenade lined with hotels. Like Le Touquet and Dinard, La Baule is a 19th-century creation, founded in 1879 to make the most of the excellent sandy beaches that extend around the broad, sheltered bay between Pornichet and Le Pouliguen. A pine forest, planted in 1840, keeps the shifting local sand dunes firmly at bay. All in all, this can offer an idyllic stay for those who will enjoy a day on the beach, an afternoon at the shops on Avenue du Général-de-Gaulle and Avenue Louis-Lajarrige, and an evening at the casino.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN LA BAULE

La Ferme du Grand Clos.

$ | FRENCH | At this lively restaurant in an old farmhouse, 200 yards from the sea, you should understand the difference between crêpe and galette to order correctly, since the menus showcase both in all their forms (try the galette with scallops and leaks). Or you can opt for the simple, straightforward menu featuring food the owner Christophe Mercy likes to call la cuisine de grand-mère (grandma’s cooking). Come early for a table; it’s a very friendly and popular place. | 52 av. du Maréchal-de-Lattre-de-Tassigny | 44500 | 02–40–60–03–30 | MC, V | Closed Mon. and mid-Nov.–mid-Dec.

Concorde.

$–$$ | This bright-blue-shuttered, white-wall establishment numbers among the least expensive good hotels in pricey La Baule. Once past the formica-clad front desk, the lobby reassures with its elegant, solid Louis Treize–style chairs, antique armoires, and solid wood beams. Upstairs, guest rooms are calm, comfortable, and modernized—faux Louis XV furniture lends a nice grace note. The Concorde is but a short block from the beach (ask for a room with a sea view). Pros: close to beach; good value. Cons: no restaurant; lengthy annual closure. | 1 bis, av. de la Concorde | 44500 | 02–40–60–23–09 | www.hotel-la-concorde.com | 47 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Internet. In-hotel: bar | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Oct.–mid-Apr.

Hôtel de la Plage.

$$–$$$ | One of the few hotels on the beach in St-Marc-sur-Mer, southeast of La Baule, this comfortable lodging was the setting for Jacques Tati’s classic comedy Mr. Hulot’s Holiday. It has been updated since and, hélas, the swinging door to the dining room is no longer there. But the view of the sea and the sound of the surf remain. The restaurant—reserve a beachfront table in advance—serves seasonal fish specialties like the choucroute de la mer (sauerkraut with fish). There’s also a brasserie for more casual dining. Pros: silver-screen claim to fame; beachside setting. Cons: old-fashioned; overrun by French families in midsummer. | 37 rue du Commandant-Charcot, 10 km (6 mi) southeast of La Baule, | 44600 | St-Marc-sur-Mer | 02–40–91–99–01 | www.hotel-delaplage.fr | 30 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, bar | AE, MC, V | FAP.

NIGHTLIFE IN LA BAULE

Occasionally you see high stakes on the tables at La Baule’s casino (6 av. Pierre-Loti | 44500 | 02–40–11–48–28).

NANTES

72 km (45 mi) east of La Baule via N171 and N165, 108 km (67 mi) south of Rennes.

The writer Stendhal remarked of 19th-century Nantes, “I hadn’t taken twenty steps before I recognized a great city.” Since then, the river that flowed around the upper-crust Ile Feydeau neighborhood has been filled in and replaced with a rushing torrent of traffic, and now major highways cut through the heart of town. Still, Nantes is more than the sum of its traffic jams. Stay a spell to discover its many charms.

Getting Here and Around

TGV trains leave Paris’s Gare Montparnasse for Nantes every hour, covering the 387 km (240 mi) in just 2 hours 10 minutes (€72). Trains make the 2-hour, 30-minute run up the coast from Nantes to Quimper (€31.40) twice daily, stopping at Vannes (1hr, 15 mins; €19). Nantes’s train station, at 27 boulevard Stalingrad, is across the street from the Jardin des Plantes and a 10-minute walk from the Vieille Ville. Cariane Atlantique runs four daily buses to Rennes (2 hrs), as well as to other nearby towns.

Visitor Information

Nantes Tourist Office.

| 7 rue de Valmy | 44000 | 08–92–46–40–44 | www.nantes-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING NANTES

Nantes’s 15th-century château is still in relatively good shape, despite having lost an entire tower during a gunpowder explosion in 1800. The 15th-century cathedral floats heavenward as well. Its white stones, immense height, and airy interior make it one of France’s best. Across the broad boulevard, Cours des 50-Otages, is the 19th-century city. The unlucky Ile Feydeau, surrounded and bisected by highways, still preserves the tottering 18th-century mansion built with wealth from Nantes’s huge slave trade. The Loire River flows along the southern edge of the Vieille Ville, making Nantes officially part of the Loire region, although historically it belongs to Brittany. In town you can see many references to Anne de Bretagne, the last independent ruler of Brittany, who married the region away to King Charles VIII of France in 1491. Bretons have never quite recovered from the shock.

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN NANTES

Château des Ducs de Bretagne.

Built by the dukes of Brittany, who had no doubt that Nantes belonged in their domain, this château is a massive, well-preserved 15th-century fortress with a moat. François II, the duke responsible for building most of it, led a hedonistic life here, surrounded by ministers, chamberlains, and an army of servants. Numerous monarchs later stayed in the castle, where in 1598 Henri IV signed the famous Edict of Nantes advocating religious tolerance. The castle reopened in February 2007 after extensive renovations. | 4 pl. Marc-Elder | 44000 | 02–51–17–49–00 | www.chateau-nantes.fr | €5 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

Cathédrale St-Pierre–St-Paul.

One of France’s last Gothic cathedrals, this was begun in 1434, well after most other medieval cathedrals had been completed. The facade is ponderous and austere, in contrast to the light, wide, limestone interior, whose vaults rise higher (120 feet) than those of Notre-Dame in Paris. | Pl. St-Pierre | 44000 | 02–40–47–84–64 | Free | Crypt Mon.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2–6, Sun. 2–6:30.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts).

Designed by Clément-Marie Josso, this noted museum was opened in 1900. Inside, skylights cast their glow over a fine array of paintings, extending from the Renaissance period onward, including works by Jacopo Tintoretto, Georges de La Tour, Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, and Gustave Courbet. To go from the sublime to the ridiculous, look for the famous late-19th-century painting of a gorilla running amuck with a maiden. | 10 rue Georges-Clemenceau | 44000 | 02–51–17–45–00 | €3.50 | Mon., Wed., Fri., and weekends 10–6, Thurs. 10–8.

Musée Thomas-Dobrée.

Set across the way from the medieval Manoir de la Touche, this mansion was originally built by arts connoisseur Thomas Dobrée in the 19th century. On the mock-Romanesque facade he had chiseled the old Breton saying,ANN DIANAF A ROG AC’HANOUN (“The Unknown devours me”), and his vast collection offers proof, as it ranges from old-master paintings to tapestries, from medieval manuscripts to Gothic goldwork, including the coffret reliquary of the heart of Anne de Bretagne; one room is devoted to the Revolutionary War in Vendée. | 18 rue Voltaire | 44000 | 02–40–71–03–50 | €3 | Tues.–Sun. 2:30–5:30.

WORTH NOTING IN NANTES

Grand Théâtre.

Down the block from the Passage Pommeraye, this noted town landmark was built in 1783. | Pl. Graslin | 44000.

Manoir de la Touche.

This 15th-century house was once the abode of the bishops of Nantes. | Rue Voltaire | 44000.

Passage de la Pommeraye.

Erected in 1843, this is an elegant shopping gallery in the 19th-century part of town. | Rue Crébillon | 44000.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN NANTES

La Cigale.

$$ | FRENCH | Miniature palm trees, gleaming woodwork, colorful enamel tiles, and painted ceilings have led to the official recognition of La Cigale brasserie (built in 1895) as a monument historique. You can savor its Belle Époque blandishments without spending a fortune—the prix-fixe lunch menus are a good value. But the banks of fresh oysters and well-stacked dessert cart may tempt you to order à la carte. | 4 pl. Graslin | 44000 | 02–51–84–94–94 | www.lacigale.com | Reservations essential | MC, V.

L’Embellie.

$$ | FRENCH | Sweet and simple, this spot lures diners with its modern, inventive attitude and friendly service. Chef François Proquin’s “creative regional” cuisine extends to his own smokehouse for salmon and duck, so the foie gras is homemade—he likes to serve it light, atop a mesclun salad. The menu is dependent on Proquin’s daily trips to markets, so don’t hesitate to try any of the fresh fish specials, such as the sea bass steamed in rosemary or other briny delights, such as John Dory laced with French West Indian spices. Pineapple croquant with rum-laced creole ice cream makes a fitting finale. | 14 rue Armand-Brossard | 44000 | 02–40–48–20–02 | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon., and Aug.

Villa Mon Rêve.

$$$ | FRENCH | This cozy, yellow-wall restaurant is in delightful parkland off the D751 east of Nantes. Chef Gérard Ryngel concocts elegantly inventive regional fare (try the pike-perch in Anjou red-wine sauce, or the frogs’ legs in Gros Plant white-wine sauce), with which you can sample one of more than 50 varieties of Muscadet, the local white wine. Request a table on the terrace when you reserve. | Levée Divatte, 506 bd. de la Loire, 8 km (5 mi) east of Nantes, | Basse-Goulaine | 44000 | 02–40–03–55–50 | www.villa-mon-reve.com | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Tues. and part of Feb. and Nov. No dinner Sun.

Pérouse.

$$–$$$ | Bare parquet floors, plain off-white walls, simple high-tech lighting, and minimal contemporary furnishings make rooms feel spacious, and earned the accolade of Europe’s Design Hotel of the Year in 1995, just after this big white cube of a hotel opened its doors. The spaces may be bare, but at least they are filled with furnishings by some great modern masters, such as Le Corbusier, Eileen Gray, and Gerrit Rietvield. The amiable staff speak fluent English. A pedestrian zone full of boutiques and restaurants is right outside the door, and Place Royale is 300 yards away. Pros: stylish decor; friendly staff. Cons: hard to park; no restaurant; noisy bar. | 3 allée Dusquesne | 44000 | 02–40–89–75–00 | www.hotel-laperouse.fr | 46 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN NANTES

The informal Univers (16 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau | 44000 | 02–40–73–49–55) has live jazz concerts every other week. Le Tie Break (1 rue des Petites-Écuries | 44000 | 02–40–47–77–00) is a popular piano bar. The Théâtre Graslin (1 rue Molière | 44000 | 02–40–69–77–18) is Nantes’s principal concert hall and opera house.

THE OUTDOORS IN NANTES

You can take a 100-minute cruise along the pretty Erdre River, past a string of gardens and châteaux, with the Bateaux Nantais.

There are also four-course lunch and dinner cruises that last about 2½ hours (€54–€89). | Quai de la Motte Rouge | 44000 | 02–40–14–51–14 | www.bateaux-nantais.fr | €10 | June–Aug., daily at 3:30 and 5; May and Sept., daily at 3:30; Mar., Apr., Oct., and Nov., Sun. at 3:30.

SHOPPING IN NANTES

The commercial quarter of Nantes stretches from Place Royale to Place Graslin. Various antiques shops can be found on Rue Voltaire. The Devineau family has been selling wax fruit and vegetables at Devineau (2 pl. Ste-Croix | 44000) since 1803, as well as handmade candles and wildflower honey. For chocolate, head to Gautier-Debotté (9 rue de la Fosse | 44000 | gautier-debotte.com); try the local Muscadet grapes dipped in brandy and covered with chocolate.

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Eating and Drinking Well in Brittany

EATING AND DRINKING WELL IN BRITTANY

Brittany is a land of the sea. Surrounded on three sides by water, it’s a veritable trove of fish and shellfish. These aquatic delights, not surprisingly, dominate Breton cuisine, but crêpes, lamb, and butter also play starring roles.

Maritime headliners include coquilles St-Jacques (scallops); langoustines, which are something between a large shrimp and a lobster; and oysters, prized for their balance of briny and sweet. Perhaps the most famous regional seafood dishes are homard à l’armoricaine, lobster with cream, and cotriade, fish soup with potatoes, onions, garlic, and butter.

Beyond the sea, the lamb that hails from the farms on the little island of Ouessant, off the coast of Brest, is well known. Called pré-salé, or “salt meadow,” they feed on sea-salted grass, which tenderizes their meat while their hearts are still pumping. Try the regional ragout de mouton and you can taste the difference. Of all its culinary treasures, however, Brittany is best known as home of the humble crêpe—a large, delicate pancake served warm with a variety of sweet or savory fillings.

CELTIC ELIXIR

Chouchen, Brittany’s classic mead-like beverage made from honey, dates back to Celtic times, when it was considered an aphrodisiac and an elixir d’immortalité. Artisanal chouchen is often blended with luscious Breton honeys. This delicious drink is traditionally served cold as an aperitif to highlight its refreshing qualities and its soft, earthy flavor.

CRÊPES

Brittany’s most illustrious contribution to French cuisine is the crêpe and its heartier sibling the galette. What’s the difference between the two? The darker galette is made with tender buckwheat called blé noir or blé sarrasin, and has a deeper flavor best paired with savory fillings—like lobster, mushrooms, or the traditional ham and cheese. A crêpe is wafer-thin and made with a lighter batter. It is typically served with sweet fillings like strawberries and cream, apples in brandy, or chocolate. Accompanied by a glass of local cider, galettes and crêpes make an ideal light, inexpensive meal. Traditionally, crêpes are eaten from the tails toward the center point to save the most flavorful, buttery part for last.

CANCALE OYSTER

At seven dollars a dozen, you simply can’t do better than a plate of freshly shucked Cancale oysters and half a lemon from a seafood stand along the quay. Best enjoyed atop the breezy sea wall overlooking the Mont Saint-Michel bay, the shells are simply tossed seaward after slurping the succulent insides. Cancale’s oyster beds benefit from some of the world’s highest tides and strongest currents, which keep the oysters oxygen- and plankton-rich, resulting in a large, firm, yet tender specimen.

PLOUGASTEL STRAWBERRY AND CAMUS DE BRETAGNE ARTICHOKE

Together, the four regions of Brittany make up France’s highest yielding farmland. Among the more prosaic crops grown here are two standouts: the large, fleshy camus artichoke and the plump Plougastel strawberry. Come spring, the markets of Brittany (and Paris, for that matter) are teeming with enthusiastic cooks just itching to get their hands on the first produce of the season. The juicy Plougastel strawberry season lasts for only a few weeks in June, while artichoke season runs into the fall.

LE BUERRE

Temperate Brittany’s lush grazing lands make for exceptional milk products and, like wine, they are discussed in terms of élévages and terroir. Butter your roll at a four-star Paris restaurant and you’re likely getting a taste of Brittany’s finest—le buerre Bordier. Jacques Bordier, headquartered in St. Malo’s Vieille Ville, sets the gold standard for butter, and his luscious sweet cream version is imported daily to top restaurants throughout France. Other flavors include a pungent purple- and green-flecked algae butter (best slathered on sourdough and eaten with oysters), and the buerre fleur de sel de Guérande, laced with crunchy grains of the prized grey-hued salt hand-harvested in the salt marshes of Guérande, near La Baule.

—Jennifer Ladonne

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Main Table of Contents

Introducing Champagne Country

Champagne Country Planner

Getting Around

Champagne

Excursion: The Cathedral Cities

Champagne County In Depth

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented

Updated by Heather Stimmler-Hall

As you head toward Reims, the landscape loosens and undulates, and the hills tantalize with vineyards that—thanks to la méthode champenoise—produce the world’s antidote to gloom. Each year, millions of bottles of bubbly mature in hundreds of kilometers of chalk tunnels carved under the streets of Reims and Épernay, both of which fight for the title “The Champagne City.”

Champagne, a place-name that has become a universal synonym for joy and festivity, actually began as a word of humble origin. Like campagna, its Italian counterpart, it’s derived from the Latin campus, which means “open field.” In French campus became champ, with the old language extending this to champaign, for “battlefield,” and champaine, for “district of plains.” Today this vast, endless plain—in the 19th century the famed writer Stendahl bemoaned “the atrocious flat wretchedness of Champagne”—has been the center of Champagne production for more than two centuries, stocking the cellars of its many conquerors (Napoléon, Czar Nicholas I, the Duke of Wellington) as well as those of contemporary case-toting bubblyphiles. Yet long before a drink put it on the map, this area of northern France was marked by great architecture and bloodstained history.

Picardy’s monotonous chalk plains are home, in fact, to many of France’s greatest medieval cathedrals, including those of Amiens, Reims, and Laon. These great structures testify to the wealth this region enjoyed thanks to its prime location between Paris and northern Europe. The “flying buttresses” and heaven-seeking spires of these cathedrals remind us that medieval stoneworkers sought to raise radically new Gothic arches to improbable heights, running for cover when the naves failed to stand. Happily, most have stood the test of time (though you might want to hover near the exits at Beauvais, the tallest cathedral in France—it still makes some engineers nervous).

But the region’s crossroads status also exacted a heavy toll, and it paid heavily for its role as a battleground for the bickering British, German, and French. From pre-Roman times to the armistice of 1945, some of Europe’s costliest wars were fought on northern French soil. World War I and World War II were especially unkind: epic cemeteries cover the plains of Picardy, and you can still see bullet-pocked buildings in Amiens. These days, happily, the vineyards of Champagne attract tourists interested in less sobering events.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Champagne—what else!: Drink it, see the vineyards, visit the cavernous chalk cellars where bottles are stored by the million.

Gothic Glory: No fewer than 10 Gothic cathedrals dot the region—check out the rivalry between the biggest of them (Amiens) and the tallest (neighboring Beauvais).

Tiny L’Épine: Set on the Route du Champagne, this cozy village has the superlative Aux Armes de Champagne restaurant, set across from its pretty stone-lacework church.

Laon, “Crowned Mountain”: With its cathedral towers patrolling the hilly horizon, Laon has a site whose grandeur rivals Mont-St-Michel (and just as exciting in close-up, with mighty stone oxen guarding the church towers).

The Capital of Bubbly: Drink now, pray later in Reims, the “Champagne City” and also home to France’s great coronation cathedral.

GETTING ORIENTED

Few drinks in the world have such a pull on the imagination as Champagne, yet surprisingly few tourists visit the pretty vineyards south of Reims. Perhaps it’s because the Champagne region is a bit of a backwater, halfway between Paris and Luxembourg. The 2007 arrival of the TGV line serving eastern France and Germany is helping to change all this. Northwest of Laon, the hills of Champagne give way to the plains of Picardy, where only giant cathedrals and giant pyramids of sugar beets in fall break up the skyline.

Champagne. The region’s obsession with Champagne is especially evident in Reims, the region’s hub, home to the great Champagne houses and site of one of the most historically important cathedrals in France. Once you tally up the 34 VIPs who have been crowned here and toured some Champagne cellars to bone up on the history of this noble beverage, you can head south. Smack-dab in the middle of the 28,000 hectares that make up the entire Champagne-producing region, Épernay lives and dies for the bubbly brew. Continue on the Route du Champagne to other wine villages.

The Cathedral Cities. To the west of Champagne lies a region where the popping of Champagne corks is only a distant murmur, and not just because Reims is 160 km (100 mi) away. For here are some of the most gargantuan Gothic hulks of architectural harmony: the cathedrals of Beauvais, Amiens, Laon, and Soissons. Beauvais is positively dizzying from within: with the highest choir in France, you nearly keel over craning your neck back. Laon is still a town with a contemplative air. Amiens is the most colossal church in the land, in places fantastically ornate, while Soissons shows Gothic at its most restrained.

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Visitor Information | Traveling “Les Routes de Champagne” | Transportation Basics | Finding a Place to Stay | Eating Well

VISITOR INFORMATION

If traveling extensively by public transportation, be sure to load up on information (“Guide Régional des Transports” schedules, the best taxi-for-call companies, etc.) upon arriving at the ticket counter or help desk of the bigger train and bus stations in the area, such as Reims and Amiens.

In addition to the main tourist offices in these two cities, other smaller towns have their own tourist bureaux.

The Marne Regional Tourist Office (13 bis, rue Carnot, | Châlons-en-Champagne | 51006 | 03–26–68–37–52 | www.tourisme-en-champagne.com) is a mine of information about the Champagne region.

Two main Web sites for the region (www.tourisme-champagne-ardenne.com, www.picardietourisme.com) are packed with data and suggestions for Champagne-bound travelers.

Amiens Tourist Office (6 bis, rue Dusevel, | Amiens | 80000 | 03–22–71–60–50 | www.visit-amiens.com).

Reims Tourist Office (2 rue Guillaume-de-Machault, | Reims | 51100 | 03–26–77–45–25 | www.reims-tourisme.com).

TRAVELING “LES ROUTES DE CHAMPAGNE”

Threading the triangle between Reims, Épernay, and Château-Thierry are the famous Routes Touristique de Champagne (Champagne Roads), which divvy up the region into four fabulous itineraries. These follow the main four côtes of the Champagne vineyards. Northwest of Reims (use the Tinqueux exit) is the Massif de Saint-Thierry—a vineyard-rich region once hallowed by kings. Heading south of Reims to Épernay, travel west along the Vallée de la Marne through the Hauteurs d’Épernay, traveling west on the right bank of the river and east on the left. To the east of Épernay lies the most beautiful stretch of Champagne Country: the Montagne de Reims. To the south of Épernay is the Côte de Blancs, the “cradle of Chardonnay.” More than 80 producers of Champagne are scattered along these roads, and you can guarantee a better reception if you call the ones you’d like to visit in advance.

The two main centers to the Champagne Wine Road are Reims and Épernay, which are about 64 km (40 mi) apart if you work your way through the wine villages that dot the slopes of the Montagne de Reims. Start in Reims, with its host of major Champagne houses, then go south on N51 and east on D26 through pretty Rilly-la-Montagne, Mailly-Champagne, and Verzy, where you can visit local producers Étienne and Anne-Laure Lefevre at 30 rue de Villers (03–26–97–96–99 | www.champagne-etienne-lefevre.com). Continue south to Ambonnay, then track back west to Bouzy, Ay, and Hautvillers—where Dom Pérignon is buried in the village church—before crossing the Marne River to Épernay, whose main street is home to several producers. From Épernay, spear south along the Côte de Blanc to Vertus, 19 km (12 mi) away, where Pierre and Sophie Lamandier will sell and tell you all about their organic bio-Champagne at 19 avenue du General-de-Gaulle (03–26–52–13–24 | www.larmandier.fr). If you’re headed back to Paris, take D1 from Épernay west along the banks of the Marne to Château-Thierry 50 km (30 mi) away. The steep-climbing vineyards hugging the river are the most scenic in Champagne. For maps on the four Routes Touristique de Champagne, see | www.ville-reims.fr/index.php?id=934.

TRANSPORTATION BASICS

As always in France, intercity buses are less frequent than trains, and much slower.

There are trains to all the towns and cities mentioned in this chapter.

The natural hub remains Reims—especially now that it’s just 45 minutes from Paris by TGV.

Reims is linked to Laon by the A26 expressway, and to Châlons-en-Champagne by the A4 expressway arriving from Paris.

The west, Amiens and Beauvais, are connected by the A16.

Épernay, south of Reims, can be reached from Reims by the twisting wine road or quicker N51.

Only Soissons, 20 mi southwest of Laon, is a bit off the beaten track.

FINDING A PLACE TO STAY

Dining and Lodging Price Categories (In Euros)

Restaurants

Hotels

¢

under €13

under €65

$

€13–€17

€65–€105

$$

€18–€24

€106–€145

$$$

€25–€32

€146–€215

$$$$

over €32

over €215

Restaurant prices are for a main course at dinner, including tax (5.5%) and service; note that if a restaurant offers only prix-fixe (set-price) meals, it has been given the price category that reflects the full prix-fixe price. Hotel prices are for a standard double room in high season, including tax (19.6%) and service charge.

The Champagne Region has a mix of old, rambling hotels, often simple rather than pretentious.

In addition, there are a handful of stylish hostelries catering to those with more discerning tastes, including a large contingent of staffers who work in the vast Champagne industry.

Be warned, though, that few of the destinations mentioned in this chapter have much in the way of upscale choice.

Many of the region’s most characterful establishments, to boot, are in the countryside and require a car to reach.

EATING WELL

This region is less dependent on tourism than many in France, and most restaurants are open year-round. However, in the largest cities, Reims and Amiens, many restaurants close for two to three weeks in July and August.

Smoked ham, pigs’ feet, gingerbread, and Champagne-based mustard are specialties of the Reims area, along with sautéed chicken, kidneys, stuffed trout, pike, and snails.

One particularly hearty dish is potée champenoise, consisting of smoked ham, bacon, sausage, and cabbage. Rabbit (often cooked with prunes) is common, while boar and venison are specialties in fall and winter, when vegetable soups are high on the menu.

In Picardy, the popular ficelle picarde is a pancake stuffed with cheese, mushrooms, and ham.

Apart from Champagne, try drinking the region’s hydromel (mead, made from honey) and ratafia, a sweet aperitif made from grape juice and brandy.

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Air Travel | Bus Travel | Car Travel | Train Travel

AIR TRAVEL

If you’re coming from the United States and most other destinations, count on arriving at Paris’s Charles de Gaulle or Orly airport.

Charles de Gaulle offers easy access to the northbound A16 and A1 for Beauvais and Amiens, and the eastbound A4 for Reims.

If coming from the United Kingdom, consider the direct flights to Beauvais from Prestwick, near Glasgow.

BUS TRAVEL

The main bus operator in Picardy is Courriers Automobiles Picards; their main hub is the Gare Routière in Amiens. In the Champagne region, services are run by STDM Trans-Champagne; the main hub is Châlons-en-Champagne. Their main routes are: Reims to Troyes (line 14; 2 hrs, 15 mins; €14.75) by way of Châlons-en-Champagne (50 mins, €13.50), and Épernay to Châlons (line 52; 1 hr, €6.60); RTA has one daily bus between Reims and Laon (Bus 510; 2 hrs). In Reims, municipal buses run by Transports Urbains de Reims depart from the train station (ticket prices vary on route, from €1-€3). The best way to navigate the confusing bus system is to contact the tourism office at the city you’re leaving from.

Bus Information: Courriers Automobiles Picards (B.P. 59, ZAC La Haute Borne, | Rivéry | 80136 | 03–22–70–70–70 | www.courriersautomobilespicards.com). RTA (97 rue Semard, | Gauchy | 02430 | 03–23–50–68–50 | www.rta02.com). STDM (86 rue des Fagnières, | Châlons-en-Champagne | 51000 | 03–26–65–17–07 | www.stdmarne.fr). Transports Urbains de Reims (6 rue Chanzy, | Reims | 51100 | 03–26–88–25–38 | www.transdev-champagne.fr).

CAR TRAVEL

The A4 heads east from Paris to Reims; allow 90 minutes to two hours, depending on traffic.

The A16 leads from L’Isle-Adam, north of Paris, up to Beauvais and Amiens.

If you’re arriving by car via the Channel Tunnel, you’ll disembark at Coquelles, near Calais, and join A16 not far from its junction with A26, which heads to Reims (2½ hrs).

TRAIN TRAVEL

It’s easy to get around the region by train. Most sites can be reached by regular train service, except for the Champagne vineyards, which require a car.

There are frequent daily services from Paris (Gare du Nord) to Beauvais; Amiens; and Laon (taking up to two leisurely hours to cover 140 km [87 mi]).

The TGV service, introduced in 2007, covers the 170 km (105 mi) from Paris (Gare de l’Est) to Reims in 45 minutes.

Cross-country services connect Reims to Épernay (20 mins), Châlons (40 mins), and Amiens (2 hrs) via Laon (35 mins).

Train Information: Gare SNCF Reims (Blvd. Joffre | 51100 | 03–26–65–17–07). SNCF (36–35 [€0.34 per min] | www.voyages-sncf.com). TGV (www.tgv.com).

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Reims | L’Épine | Châlons-en-Champagne | Épernay | Château-Thierry

An uplifting landscape tumbles about Reims and Épernay, perhaps because its inhabitants treat themselves to a regular infusion of the local, world-prized elixir. But unlike the great vineyards of Bordeaux and Burgundy, there are few country châteaux to go with the fabled names of this region—Mumm, Taittinger, Pommery, and Veuve-Clicquot. Most of the glory is to be found in caves (wine cellars), not to mention the fascinating guided tours offered by the most famous producers.

Despite its glamorous image as the home of Champagne, the region in fact has a laid-back rustic charm where “life in the fast lane” refers strictly to the Paris-bound A4 expressway. On the map, Champagne encompasses Reims and the surrounding vineyards and chalky plains. The province starts just beyond Château-Thierry, 96 km (60 mi) northeast of Paris, and continues along the towering Marne Valley to Épernay. Cheerful villages line the Route du Champagne (Champagne Road), which twines north to Reims, the capital of bubbly and the largest city in Champagne. To the southeast the grapes of Champagne flourish on the steep slopes of the Marne Valley and the Montagne de Reims, really more of a mighty hill than a mountain. For a handy Web source for many of the great Champagne houses of the region, log on to | www.maisons-champagne.com.

REIMS

161 km (100 mi) northeast of Paris.

Reims is the largest city in Champagne. Behind a facade of austerity, it remains one of France’s richest tourist sites, thanks especially to the fact that it sparkles with some of the biggest names in Champagne production. This thriving industry has conferred wealth and sometimes an arrogant reserve on the region’s inhabitants. The maze of Champagne cellars constitutes a leading attraction of the city. Several of these producers organize visits to their cellars, combining video presentations with guided tours of their cavernous, hewn-chalk underground warehouses.

Getting Here and Around

Since 2007 a new TGV (www.tgv.com) express train covers the 170 km (105 mi) from Paris (Gare de l’Est) to Reims in 45 minutes. Trains depart from Paris eight times daily and cost €12–€50. Several SNCF trains daily connect Reims to Épernay (20–30 mins, €6), and there are four trains a day from Châlons-en-Champagne (40 mins, €12–€50). There’s one direct train each day from Amiens to Reims (2 hrs, 30 mins; €21.60) via Laon. STDM Trans-Champagne (03–26–65–17–07 | www.stdmarne.fr) runs three daily buses to Reims from Châlons-en-Champagne (line 15; 50 mins, €8.75).

Visitor Information

Reims Tourist Office (2 rue Guillaume-de-Machault | 51100 | 08–92–70–13–51[€0.34/min] | www.reims-tourisme.com).

EXPLORING IN REIMS

Although many of Reims’s historic buildings were flattened in World War I and replaced by drab, modern architecture, those that do remain are of royal magnitude. Top of the list goes to the city’s magnificent cathedral, in which the kings of France were crowned until 1825, while the Musée des Beaux-Arts has a stellar collection of paintings, and the Le Vergeur Museum is home to a complete edition of Dürer prints. The new tramway, set to open in 2012, will make it even easier to get around the compact town and its many sites from the train station. For a complete list of Champagne cellars, head to the tourist office (2 rue Guillaume-de-Machault | 51100 | 08–92–70–13–51 [€0.34/min]) near the cathedral. A handy Web site that can help with planning Champagne cellar visits throughout the region is: | www.tourisme-en-champagne.com.

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN REIMS

Basilique St-Rémi.

This 11th-century basilica honors the 5th-century saint who baptized Clovis, the first French king, and who gave his name to the city. Its interior seems to stretch into the endless distance, an impression created by its relative murk and lowness. The airy four-story Gothic choir contains some fine original 12th-century stained glass. There is also a museum (open daily 2–6:30, admission €3) in the Abbaye Royale alongside the basilica, housing some of its most precious relics. | 53 rue St-Rémi | 51100 | 03–26–85–23–26 | Daily 8–7.

Fodor’s Choice | Cathédrale Notre-Dame.

The age-old setting for the coronations of the French kings, this is one of the most magnificent Gothic cathedrals in the world. The great historical saga begins with Clovis, king of the Franks, who was baptized in an early structure on this site in the 6th century; Joan of Arc led her recalcitrant Dauphin here to be crowned King Charles VII; Charles X’s coronation, in 1825, was the last. The east-end windows have stained glass by Marc Chagall. Admire the vista toward the west end, with an interplay of narrow pointed arches. The glory of Reims’s cathedral is its facade: it’s so skillfully proportioned that initially you have little idea of its monumental size. Above the north (left) door hovers the Laughing Angel, a delightful statue whose famous smile threatens to melt into an acid-rain scowl; pollution has succeeded war as the ravager of the building’s fabric. With the exception of the 15th-century towers, most of the original building went up in the 100 years after 1211. You can climb to the top of the towers, and peek inside the breathtaking timber-and-concrete roof (reconstructed in the 1920s with Rockefeller money), for €7. A stroll around the outside reinforces the impression of harmony, discipline, and decorative richness. The east end presents an idyllic sight across well-tended lawns. An optical-fiber lighting system illuminates the cathedral exterior every day from dusk until midnight. | Pl. du Cardinal-Luçon | 51100 | cathedrale-reims.monuments-nationaux.fr |  Cathedral daily 7:30–7:30. Towers May–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–5; Apr. and Oct., weekends 2–4.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts).

Located two blocks southwest of Reims’s massive cathedral, this noted museum has an outstanding collection of paintings: no fewer than 27 Corots are here, as well as Jacques-Louis David’s unforgettable “Death of Marat,” a portrait of the revolutionary polemicist Jean-Paul Marat shown stabbed to death in his bath, a deed done by Charlotte Corday, in 1793. One floor is devoted to 20th-century art, with significant collections in Art Deco, Surrealism, and post-1945 Abstraction. | 8 rue Chanzy | 51100 | 03–26–47–28–44 | www.ville-reims.fr | €3 | Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

WORTH NOTING IN REIMS

Cryptoportique.

A Gallo-Roman underground gallery and crypt, now a semisubterranean passageway, this was initially constructed aroundAD 200 under the forum of what was Reims’s predecessor, the Roman town of Durocortorum. | Pl. du Forum | 51100 | 03–26–35–34–70 | Free | June–mid-Oct., Tues.–Sun. 2–6.

Hôtel Le Vergeur Museum.

One of the best examples of late medieval and early Renaissance architecture in Reims, this was built during the 13th century. Originally overlooking the historic linen and wheat market in the center of town, the noble townhouse changed hands between aristocrats, Champagne traders, and, finally, Hugues Kraft in 1910, a man whose sole passion was preserving the city’s historic buildings. It was completely restored after the WWI bombings and today houses an impressive collection of historical prints, paintings, and furnishings from the region, as well as an original, complete series of 15th-century Albert Dürer prints of the “Apocalypse” and “Large Passion.”|36 pl. du Forum | 51100 | 03–26–47–20–75 | www.museelevergeur.com | €3.90 | June–Aug., Tues.–Sun. 10–noon.

Musée de la Reddition (Museum of the Surrender).

Near the train station, this museum—also known as the Salle du 8-Mai-1945 or the “little red school house”—is a well-preserved map-covered room used by General Eisenhower as Allied headquarters at the end of World War II. It was here that General Alfred Jodl signed the German surrender at 2:41 AM on May 7, 1945. Fighting officially ceased at midnight the next day. The museum also presents a collection of local photos, documents, uniforms, and artifacts recounting the fighting, occupation, and liberation of Reims. Guided tours begin with a short documentary film in English and French. | 12 rue Franklin-Roosevelt | 51100 | 03–26–47–84–19 | €3 | Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

Palais du Tau.

Formerly the Archbishop’s Palace (alongside the cathedral), this museum now houses an impressive display of tapestries and coronation robes, as well as several statues rescued from the cathedral facade before they fell off. The second-floor views of the cathedral are terrific. | 2 pl. du Cardinal-Luçon | 51100 | 03–26–47–81–79 | www.palais-du-tau.fr | €7 | May–Aug., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–6:30; Sept.–Apr., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–12:30 and 2–5:30.

HIKING CHAMPAGNE: LIFT YOUR SPIRITS!

There’s nothing like getting out into Mother Nature to send the spirits soaring and, as it turns out, the region of Champagne is custom-made for easy and scenic hiking.

Just south of Reims rises the Montagne de Reims, a vast forested plateau on whose slopes grow the Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes used to make Champagne.

Several sentiers de Grandes Randonnées (long hiking trails; also known as GRs) run across the top of the plateau, burrowing through dense forest and looping around the edges.

For example, the GR141 and the GR14 form a loop more than 50 km (30 mi) long around the plateau’s eastern half, passing by several train stations en route.

You can access some of these hiking trails from the Rilly-la-Montagne, Avenay, and Ay stops on the Reims-Épernay rail line.

If you’re a serious hiker, make for the Ardennes region, which lies just to the northeast of Champagne.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN REIMS

Le Bocal.

$$$ | SEAFOOD | Freshness is guaranteed: this tiny treasure is hidden at the back of a fishmonger’s shop across from the old food court, les Halles du Boulingrin. Everything is just off the boat, but most of the dozen lucky diners automatically go with the catch of the day. Tempting as that is no one should pass up the divine cooked oysters in season. Tables in this bright, contemporary room are in demand so it is best to reserve. | 27 rue de Mars | 51100 | 03–26–47–02–51 | MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Wed.

Le Millénaire.

$$$$ | FRENCH | Appearances deceive at this sturdy traditional town house just off Place Royale, a few feet from the cathedral, “au coeur de Reims”: inside, it has an Art Deco feel with plush red carpets and sleek wooden chairs, while the designer lighting and contemporary art on the pale yellow walls ooze as much chic as does trim hostess Corinne Laplaige. Her husband Laurent’s own decorative artistry finds an outlet in colorful food presentations on square glass plates, with stunning specialties ranging from sardines with gazpacho and pike-perch cooked in Champagne, to lamb with aubergine and girolle mushrooms and dessert dazzlers like apricot with caramel ice. The five-course €47 set menu is a feast, the three-course €30 menu a wiser lunchtime option. | 4 rue Bertin | 51100 | 03–03–26–08–26–62 | www.lemillenaire.com | MC, V | Closed Sun., no lunch Sat.

L’Opera.

$$ | FRENCH | Centrally located in Reims’s historic district, this traditional “Champenoise” restaurant specializes in local dishes such as filet mignon à la moutard de Reims, andouillette marnaise (sausage), and la ficelle Picardie (Picardy-style crepes). The copious plat du jour is always a sure bet, made with the market fresh ingredients chosen daily by chef Cédric Guyot. The setting is contemporary and stylish, yet laid back. Outdoor seating faces the pedestrian street. Two-course formules (set menus) from €18 and three-course menus €22 are available weekdays, with a special “organic” menu on tap for the weekends at €35. | 4 rue Thillois | 51100 | 03–03–26–02–68–43 | www.loperareims.com | MC, V | Closed Mon., no dinner Sun.

Château Les Crayères.

$$$$ | In a grand park, romantic with towering trees planted by Champagne legend Madame Pommery, this celebrated hotel remains the top showplace of Reims. Not far from the city center (on the A26, take the Saint Rémi exit), the garden estate is centered around its stylish, late-19th-century château, replete with glorious, gilt-trimmed, bouquet-laden salons. The legendary chef Gérard Boyer made Le Parc the most famous haute gastronomic restaurant in Reims. Since his retirement, Didier Elena, who forged his international reputation as head chef at Alain Ducasse’s Essex House in New York, has maintained the restaurant’s gastronomic flair for contemporary Champenois cuisine. Prepared with precision pairings, the fish and game dishes really shine, including the young rabbit with Granny Smith apples, the lacquered eel with celery rémoulade, or the cod and black truffles with a peppered artichoke sauce. The extensive wine list pays homage to Reims’s Champagne heritage, while the formally attentive silver service ensures that guests feel properly pampered at every moment. No matter that the restaurant (closed Monday, and no lunch is offered Tuesday; reservations and jacket and tie are all essential) may not hit the heights of Boyer’s era. For something less formal than Le Parc, guests should reserve a table at the newly opened brasserie Les Jardins, with a large terrace and light-filled contemporary dining room with a view of the chefs at work in the kitchen. As for the hotel, most guest rooms are bedecked with antiques, boiseries, and couture fabrics; the largest are Rooms 20 and 25 (the Princesse and Comtesse). For something less formal than Le Parc, guests should reserve a table at the newly opened brasserie Les Jardins, with a large terrace and light-filled contemporary dining room with a view of the chefs at work in the kitchen. Here diners can savor gourmet Champenois cuisine built up around an impressive wine and Champagne list. Pros: hotel and two restaurants in same luxurious setting; innovative food and Champagne pairings. Cons: more expensive than similar restaurants in Paris; outside the center of town. | 64 bd. Henry-Vasnier | 51100 | 03–26–82–80–80 | www.lescrayeres.fr | 20 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, bar, tennis court, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Jan. | BP.

Hôtel Azur.

¢–$ | Located on a quiet residential street close to Reims’s train station, the family-run Hotel Azur provides budget travelers with a comfortable and friendly base in the center of Reims. The rooms are simply furnished, decorated in cheerful primary colors with modern white tile bathrooms. Breakfast served in a sunny room, or in the garden patio during summer. Pros: free Wi-Fi, 10-minute walk to Cathedral, helpful staff; Cons: no bathtubs; limited reception hours. |9 rue des Ecrevées |51100 |03–26–47–43–39 | www.hotel-azur-reims.com | 18 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: Wi-Fi, parking (paid), no-smoking rooms | MC, V | EP.

La Paix.

$$$ | A modern eight-story hotel run by the same family since 1911, La Paix is a Best Western-branded property 10 minutes on foot from the cathedral. It has a cozy contemporary style with modern furnishings, dramatic artworks, and rich colors of mustard, aubergine, red, or chocolate. A heated indoor pool with jacuzzi and hammam can be found at the back of a pretty garden. Its brasserie-style restaurant serves mainly grilled meats and seafood. Pros: central location; stylish hotel bar; free Wi-Fi. Cons: often hosts corporate groups. | 9 rue Buirette | 51100 | 03–26–40–04–08 | www.hotel-lapaix.fr | 169 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, gym, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

L’ÉPINE

56 km (35 mi) southeast of Reims via N44/N3, 7 km (4½ mi) east of Châlons via N3.

The tiny village of L’Épine is dominated by its church, the twin-tower Flamboyant Gothic Basilique de Notre-Dame de l’Épine.

The church’s facade is a magnificent creation of intricate patterns and spires, and the interior exudes elegance and restraint.

WHERE TO STAY IN L’ÉPINE

Aux Armes de Champagne.

$$$–$$$$ | The highlight of this cozy former coaching inn (just up the street from the town church, so ask for a table with a view) is the restaurant, with its renowned Champagne list and imaginative cuisine. Among the specialties are grilled scallops with cabbage and chestnuts, grilled venison with prunes, wild boar with chestnuts, and artichokes with local goat cheese. (The restaurant is closed Monday, and no dinner is served Sunday year-round.) Guest rooms are divided into three buildings, furnished with solid, traditional reproductions, wall hangings, and thick carpets. No. 21, with wood beams, is the most atmospheric. Pros: great restaurant (especially local game); friendly service. Cons: out-of-the-way location; rooms can be pricey. | 31 av. du Luxembourg | 51460 | 03–26–69–30–30 | www.aux-armes-de-champagne.com | 37 rooms, 2 suites | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, tennis court | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Jan.–mid-Feb. | BP.

CHÂLONS-EN-CHAMPAGNE

7 km (4½ mi) west of L’Épine via N3, 34 km (21 mi) southeast of Épernay via N3.

Several major churches bear eloquent testimony to Châlons’s medieval importance. It is also one of the few towns in Champagne that has good bus and train service.

Getting Here and Around

Trains from Paris (Gare de l’Est) leave for Châlons every 2 hours or so (€25); the 174-km (108-mi) trip takes around 1 hour, 30 minutes. There’s also limited TGV service from Paris: one train in the afternoon, one in the evening (1 hr, €29.30). There are four direct trains a day from Reims to Châlons-en-Champagne (36 mi, 45 mins; €9.70). STDM Trans-Champagne (03–26–65–17–07 | www.stdmarne.fr) runs three buses Monday through Saturday from Reims to Châlons-en-Champagne (50 mins, €8) and several buses each day from Épernay (1 hr, €6.60).

EXPLORING IN CHÂLONS-EN-CHAMPAGNE

With its twin spires, Romanesque nave, and early Gothic choir and vaults, the church of Notre-Dame-en-Vaux is one of the most imposing in Champagne. The small museum beside the excavated cloister contains outstanding medieval statuary. | Rue Nicolas-Durand | 51000 | 03–26–69–38–53 | €3, free under 18 | Apr.–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6; Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Fri. 10–noon and 2–5, weekends 10–noon and 2–6.

The 13th-century Cathédrale St-Étienne (Rue de la Marne | 51000) is a harmonious structure with large nave windows and tidy flying buttresses; the exterior effect is marred only by the bulky 17th-century Baroque west front. Recently, the cathedral reopened after many years of renovations, including restoration of its famed 19th-century organ.

WHERE TO STAY IN CHÂLONS-EN-CHAMPAGNE

Hôtel d’Angleterre.

$$–$$$ | Guest rooms at this stylish spot in central Châlons have modern furniture, gaily patterned curtains, and either wooden floors or plush red carpets; all have marble bathrooms. Those in the back are quietest, while those on the upper floor have the most atmosphere. In the outstanding restaurant, with its starched white tablecloths (closed Sunday; no lunch Monday or Saturday), chef Jacky Michel’s creations include quail with foie gras and red mullet with artichokes, as well as the seasonal dessert tout-pommes, featuring five variations on the humble apple. Cheaper fare (main courses start at €12) is offered in the brasserie, Les Temps Changent. Breakfast is a superb buffet. Pros: beautifully modernized rooms; inventive cuisine offered at different price points. Cons: booming business is detracting from the family feel; restaurant doesn’t serve dinner past 8:45 PM. | 19 pl. Monseigneur-Tissier | 51000 | 03–26–68–21–51 | www.hotel-dangleterre.fr | 25 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed mid-July–early Aug. and late Dec.–early Jan. | BP.

ÉPERNAY

28 km (18 mi) south of Reims via N51, 35 km (24 mi) west of Châlons-en-Champagne via N3, 50 km (31 mi) east of Château-Thierry via D3/N3.

Although Reims loudly proclaims itself to be the last word in Champagne production, Épernay—set on the south bank of the Marne—is really the center of the bubbly drink’s spirit. It was here in 1741 that the first full-blown Champagne house, Moët (now Moët et Chandon), took the lifetime passion of Dom Pérignon and turned it into an industry.

Getting Here and Around

Trains from Paris (Gare de l’Est) leave for Épernay every hour or so (€20.60); the 145-km (90-mi) trip takes around 1 hour, 15 minutes. Several trains daily link Épernay to Reims (20 mi, 30 mins; €6) and Châlons (15 mi, 15 mins; €5.50). STDM Trans-Champagne runs several buses each day to Épernay from Châlons (1 hr, €8).

Visitor Information

Épernay Tourist Office.

| 7 ave. Champagne | 51200 | 03–26–53–33–00 | www.ot-epernay.fr.

EXPLORING ÉPERNAY

Unfortunately, no relation exists between the fabulous wealth of Épernay’s illustrious wine houses and the drab, dreary appearance of the town as a whole. Most Champagne firms—Moët et Chandon (20 av. de Champagne); Mercier (70 av. de Champagne); and De Castellane (57 rue de Verdun)—are spaced out along the long, straight Avenue de Champagne, and although their names may provoke sighs of wonder, their facades are either functional or overdressy.

To understand how the region’s still wine became sparkling Champagne, head across the Marne to Hautvillers.

Here the monk Dom Pérignon (1638–1715)—upon whom, legend has it, blindness conferred the gifts of exceptional taste buds and sense of smell—invented Champagne as everyone knows it by using corks for stoppers and blending wines from different vineyards. Dom Pérignon’s simple tomb, in a damp, dreary Benedictine abbey church (now owned by Moët et Chandon), is a forlorn memorial to the hero of one of the world’s most lucrative drink industries.

WHERE TO STAY IN ÉPERNAY

La Briqueterie.

$$$–$$$$ | Épernay is short on good hotels, so it’s worth driving south to Vinay to find this luxurious manor. The spacious guest rooms are individually decorated in lilac, blue floral, yellow and chocolate, all with carpeting; ask for one overlooking the extensive gardens. Chef Gilles Goess, who trained at the Paris Ritz, adds an inventive touch to the menu of regional cuisine, with gourmet six-course menus from €80. An indoor pool and spa overlooking the gardens include sauna and hammam facilities. Pros: wonderful garden; great chef; luxurious spa treatments. Cons: rooms can be small; corporate feel (frequent business seminars). | 4 rte. de Sézanne, 6 km (4 mi) south of Épernay, | Vinay | 51530 | 03–26–59–99–99 | www.labriqueterie.com | 40 rooms, 2 suites | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, gym, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | Closed late Dec. | BP.

CHÂTEAU-THIERRY

37 km (23 mi) east of Épernay via N3.

Built along the Marne River beneath the ruins of a hilltop castle that dates from the time of Joan of Arc, and within sight of the American Belleau Wood War Cemetery (open daily 9–5), commemorating the 2,300 American soldiers slain here in 1918, Château-Thierry is best known as the birthplace of the French fabulist Jean de La Fontaine (1621–95). Recently restored, the 16th-century mansion where La Fontaine was born and lived until 1676 is now a museum, the Musée Jean de La Fontaine, furnished in the style of the 17th century. It contains La Fontaine’s bust, portrait, and baptism certificate, plus editions of his fables magnificently illustrated by Jean-Baptiste Oudry (1755) and Gustave Doré (1868). | 12 rue Jean-de-La-Fontaine | 02400 | 03–23–69–05–60 | www.la-fontaine-ch-thierry.net | €3.60 | Tues.–Sun. 9:30–noon and 2–5:30.

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Laon | Soissons | Amiens | Beauvais

Champagne’s eastern neighbor, the province of Picardy, located to the northeast of the region, is traversed by the Aisne and Oise rivers, and remains home to some of France’s greatest cathedrals. The hundreds of kilometers of chalk tunnels throughout northern France, some dug by the ancient Romans as quarries, may serve as the damp and moldy berth for millions of bottles of Champagne, but they also gave up tons of blocks to create other treasures of the region: the magical and magnificent Gothic cathedrals of the region.

Here, in the wake of regal Reims, we visit four more of the most superlative: Amiens, the largest; Beauvais, the tallest; Laon, with the most towers and fantastic hilltop setting; and Soissons, beloved by Rodin. Add in those at St-Omer, St-Quentin, and Châlons-en-Champagne, along with the bijou churches in Rue, St-Riquier, and L’Épine, and aficionados of medieval architecture may wish to explore the region more extensively, to follow the development of Gothic architecture from its debut at Noyon to its flamboyant finale at Abbeville, where, according to the 19th-century English essayist John Ruskin, Gothic “lay down and died.”

LAON

66 km (41 mi) north of Château-Thierry via D1/N2, 52 km (32 mi) northwest of Reims.

Thanks to its awesome hilltop site and the forest of towers sprouting from its ancient cathedral, lofty Laon basks in the title of the “crowned mountain.” The medieval ramparts, virtually undisturbed by passing traffic, provide a ready-made itinerary for a tour of old Laon. Panoramic views, sturdy gateways, and intriguing glimpses of the cathedral lurk around every bend. There’s even a funicular, which makes frequent trips (except on Sunday in winter) up and down the hillside between the station and the Vieille Ville (Old Town).

Getting Here and Around

Trains from Paris (Gare du Nord) chug up to Laon, via Soissons, every 2 or 3 hours (€20.50); the 145-km (90-mi) trip takes around 1 hour, 35 minutes. There are four trains a day from Reims to Laon (40 mins, €8.90) and five trains daily from Amiens (65 mi; 1 hr, 45 mins; €16.10).

Visitor Information

Laon Tourist Office.

| Pl. du Parvis | 02000 | 03–23–20–28–62 | www.tourisme-paysdelaon.com.

EXPLORING LAON

Fodor’s Choice | Cathédrale Notre-Dame, constructed between 1150 and 1230, is a superb example of early Gothic. The light interior gives the impression of order and immense length, and the first flourishing of Gothic architecture is reflected in the harmony of the four-tier nave: from the bottom up, observe the wide arcades, the double windows of the tribune, the squat windows of the triforium, and, finally, the upper windows of the clerestory. The majestic towers can be explored during the guided visits that leave from the tourist office, housed in a 12th-century hospital on the cathedral square. Medieval stained glass includes the rose window dedicated to the liberal arts in the left transept, and the windows in the flat east end, an unusual feature for France although common in England. | Pl. du Parvis | 02000 | Guided tours of the towers €4, audio guide €4 | Daily 8:30–6:30; guided tours Apr.–Sept., 11 AM and 3 PM.

The Musée Municipal (Town Museum) has some fine antique pottery and work by the local-born Le Nain brothers, Antoine, Louis, and Mathieu, active in the 17th century and abundantly represented in the Louvre. But its chief draw is the Chapelle des Templiers in the garden—a small, octagonal 12th-century chapel topped by a shallow dome. It houses fragments of the cathedral’s gable and the chilling effigy of Guillaume de Harcigny, doctor to the insane king Charles VI, whose death from natural causes in 1393 did not prevent his memorializers from chiseling a skeletal portrait that recalls the Black Death. | 32 rue Georges-Ermant | 02000 | 03–23–22–87–01 | www.ville-laon.fr | €4 | June–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 11–6; Oct.–May, Tues.–Sun. 2–6.

WHERE TO STAY IN LAON

Bannière de France.

$ | In business since 1685, this old-fashioned, uneven-floor hostelry is five minutes from the cathedral. Lieselotte Lefèvre, the German patronne, speaks fluent English. Rooms are cozy and quaint but on the small side; Room 15 is by far the largest. The restaurant’s venerable dining room showcases sturdy cuisine (trout, lemon sole, guinea fowl) and good-value prix-fixe menus. Pros: quaint; short walk to cathedral; free Wi-Fi. Cons: some rooms need modernizing; short on parking space. | 11 rue Franklin-Roosevelt | 02000 | 03–23–23–21–44 | www.hoteldelabannieredefrance.com | 18 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi (some). In-hotel: restaurant, bar | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Jan and 2 wks end of July | MAP.

SOISSONS

38 km (22 mi) southwest of Laon.

Visitor Information

Soissons Tourist Office.

| 16 pl. Fernand-Marquigny | 02200 | 03–23–53–17–37 | www.tourisme-soissons.fr.

Although much damaged in World War I, Soissons commands attention for its two huge churches, one intact, one in ruins. The Gothic Cathédrale Saint-Gervais Saint-Protais was appreciated by Rodin, who famously declared that “there are no hours in this cathedral, but rather eternity.” The interior, with its pure lines and restrained ornamentation, creates a more harmonious impression than the asymmetrical, one-tower facade. The most remarkable feature, however, is the rounded two-story transept, an element more frequently found in the German Rhineland than in France. Rubens’s freshly restored Adoration of the Shepherds hangs on the other side of the transept. | Pl. Fernand-Marquigny | 02200 | Daily 9:30–noon and 2:30–5:30.

The twin-spire facade, arcaded cloister, and airy refectory, constructed from the 14th to the 16th century, are all that is left of the hilltop abbey church of St-Jean-des-Vignes, which was largely dismantled just after the Revolution. Its fallen stones were used to restore the cathedral and neighboring homes. But the church remains the most impressive sight in Soissons, its hollow rose window peering out over the town like the eye of some giant Cyclops. The Musée de Soissons hosts temporary expositions in the abbey’s Arsenal building. | Cours St-Jean-des-Vignes | 02200 | www.musee-soissons.org | Free | Weekdays 9–noon and 2–6, weekends 2–6.

Partly housed in the medieval abbey of St-Léger, the Musée de Soissons, the town museum, has a varied collection of local archaeological finds and paintings, with fine 19th-century works by Gustave Courbet and Eugène Boudin. | 6 rue de la Congrégation | 02200 | 03–23–93–30–50 | www.musee-soissons.org | Free | Weekdays 9–noon and 2–5, weekends 2–6.

WHERE TO STAY IN SOISSONS

Château de Courcelles.

$$$$ | This refined château by the Vesles River is run by easygoing Frédéric Nouhaud. Its pure, classical Louis XIV facade harmonizes oddly with the sweeping brass main staircase attributed to Jean Cocteau. Rooms vary in size and grandeur; the former outbuildings have been converted into large family-size suites. Wind down in the bar while anticipating excellent fare, including seasonal game, prepared by chef Thibaut Serin-Moulin and served up in the stately, 18th-century-style dining room. A formal garden and pool are the gateway to 40 acres of parkland and a tree-shaded canal. Pros: verdant setting; historic charm. Cons: room sizes vary, with the larger rooms in a separate block. | 8 rue du Château, 20 km (12 mi) east of Soissons via N31, | 02220 | Courcelles-sur-Vesles | 03–23–74–13–53 | www.chateau-de-courcelles.fr | 10 rooms, 8 suites | In-room: no a/c, safe, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, tennis court, pool, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.

AMIENS

112 km (70 mi) northwest of Soissons via N31/D935, 58 km (36 mi) north of Beauvais via N1 or A16.

Although Amiens showcases some pretty brazen postwar reconstruction, epitomized by Auguste Perret’s 340-foot Tour Perret, a soaring concrete stump by the train station, the city is well worth exploring. It has lovely Art Deco buildings in its traffic-free city center, as well as elegant, older stone buildings like the 18th-century Beffroi (Belfry) and Neoclassical prefecture. Crowning the city is its great Gothic cathedral, which has survived the ages intact. Nearby is the waterfront quarter of St-Leu—with its small, colorful houses—rivaling the squares of Arras and streets of old Lille as the cutest city district north of Paris.

Getting Here and Around

Trains from Paris (Gare du Nord) leave for Amiens every hour or so (€19.40); the 129-km (80-mi) trip takes 1 hour, 5 minutes. There’s one direct train each day from Reims to Amiens (2 hrs, 30 mins; €22) via Laon; five trains daily connect Laon to Amiens (1 hr, 45 mins; €16.10). Buses run by the CAB’ARO line (03–44–48–08–47 | www.cabaro.info) run between Beauvais and Amiens (line 30E) six times daily (50 mi; 1 hr, 20 mins; €12).

Visitor Information

Amiens Tourist Office.

| 6 bis, rue Dusevel | 80000 | 03–22–71–60–50 | www.amiens-tourisme.com.

MEDIEVAL ARCHITECTURE’S BUILDING BLOCKS

Consider these architectural terms before passing through Amiens’s main medieval portal (front door):

CHANCEL: The space around the altar that’s off-limits to everyone but the clergy. It’s at the east end of the church and sometimes blocked off by a rail.

CHOIR: The section of the church set off to seat the choir. It’s in the chancel.

CLERESTORY: The upper part of the church walls, typically lined with windows (often the stained-glass variety) to bathe the nave with light.

CROCKET: Usually adorning a spire, pinnacle, or gable, this carved ornament often takes the form of foliage, such as acanthus leaves.

CRYPT: An underground chamber usually used as a burial site and often found directly below a church’s nave.

GABLE: The triangular upper portion of a wall comprising the area of a pitched roof.

NARTHEX: A hall leading from the main entrance to the nave.

NAVE: The main section of the church that stretches from the chancel to the main door. This is where worshippers sit during services.

PIER: As opposed to a column, this is a solid masonry support, ranging from a simple square shape to a compound pier often comprised of several distinct sub-shafts.

RIBBED VAULT: A distinct form of Gothic architecture made up of diagonal arches, called ribs, that spring from column to column to create an overhead framework. By transferring the weight of the building from the roof directly to the columns, they reduced the masonry needed for the exterior walls, enabling these to be filled with large (usually stained-glass) windows.

TRANSEPT: The part of the church that extends outward at a right angle from the main body, creating a cruciform (cross-shape) plan.

TYMPANUM: A recessed triangular or semicircular space above the portal, often decorated with sculpture.

EXPLORING AMIENS

By far the largest church in France, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame could enclose Paris’s Notre-Dame twice. It may lack the stained glass of Chartres or the sculpture of Reims, but for architectural harmony, engineering proficiency, and sheer size, it’s without peer. The soaring, asymmetrical facade has a notable Flamboyant Gothic rose window, and is brought to life on summer evenings when a sophisticated 45-minute light show re-creates its original color scheme. Inside, there’s no stylistic disunity to mar the perspective, creating an overwhelming sensation of pure space. Construction took place between 1220 and 1264, a remarkably short period in cathedral-building spans. One of the highlights of a visit here is hidden from the eye, at least until you lift up some of the 110 choir-stall seats and admire the humorous, skillful misericord seat carvings executed between 1508 and 1518. | Pl. Notre-Dame | 80000 | 03–22–92–03–32 | cathedrale-amiens.monuments-nationaux.fr | Free | Apr.–Sept. 8:30–6:30; Oct.–Mar. 8:30–5:30. Access to towers (€7) Apr., May, June, and Sept., weekdays at 3 and 4:30; unaccompanied tour Wed.–Sun. 2:30–5:15; access July and Aug., Wed.–Sun. tour at 11, unaccompanied 2:30–5:15; tour Oct.–Mar. at 3:45.

Behind an opulent columned facade, the Musée de Picardie, built 1855–67, looks like a pompous offering from the Second Empire. Initial impressions are hardly challenged by its grand staircase lined with monumental frescoes by local-born Puvis de Chavannes, or its central hall with huge canvases, like Gérôme’s 1855 Siècle d’Auguste and Maignon’s 1892 Mort de Carpeaux. One step beyond, though, and you’re in a rotunda painted top to bottom in modern minimalist fashion by Sol LeWitt. The basement is filled with subtly lighted archaeological finds and Egyptian artifacts beneath masterly brick vaulting. The ground floor reopened in 2009 after extensive renovation; the upper floor is scheduled to reopen in late 2010. | 48 rue de la République | 80000 | 03–22–97–14–00 | www.amiens.fr/musees | €5 | Tues.–Sun. 10–12:30 and 2–6.

Jules Verne (1828–1905) lived in Amiens for the last 35 years of his life, and his former home, renovated in 2005 to mark the centenary of his death, is now the Maison Jules-Verne (2 rue Charles-Dubois | 80000 | 03–22–45–45–75 | www.jules-verne.net | €7 | Mid-Apr.–mid-Oct., weekdays 10–12:30 and 2–6:30, weekends 11–6:30; mid-Oct.–mid-Apr., Wed.–Mon. 2–6). It contains some 15,000 documents about Verne’s life as well as original furniture and a reconstruction of the writing studio where he created his science-fiction classics.

The Hortillonnages, on the east side of town, are commercial water gardens—covering more than 700 acres—where vegetables have been grown since Roman times. There’s a 45-minute boat tour of these aquatic jewels. | Boats leave from 54 bd. de Beauvillé | 80000 | 03–22–92–12–18 | €6 | Apr.–Oct., daily 2–5.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN AMIENS

Les Marissons.

$$$ | FRENCH | In the scenic St-Leu section of Amiens, beneath the cathedral, is this picturesque waterside restaurant in an elegantly transformed boatbuilding shed. Chef Antoine Benoit offers creative takes on foie gras and regional ingredients: eel, duck pâté with figs in pastry, rabbit with mint and goat cheese, and pigeon with black currants. His turbot with apricots has been a house favorite since the restaurant opened in the 1980s. To avoid pricey dining à la carte, order from the prix-fixe menus. | Pont de la Dodone, 68 rue des Marissons | 80000 | 03–22–92–96–66 | www.les-marissons.fr | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. and 3 wks in May. No lunch Wed. or Sat.

Carlton.

$ | This hotel near the train station has a stylish Belle Époque facade. In contrast, rooms are sober and functional, though light and airy, with spacious marble bathrooms; the largest room, with a view of the city skyline, is No. 403. Foreign guests are common, and English is spoken. The restaurant, La Brasserie des Capucines, serves regional, mainly meat dishes. Pros: central location; free Wi-Fi; friendly staff. Cons: some rooms lack charm; used for corporate seminars. | 42 rue de Noyon | 80000 | 03–22–97–72–22 | www.lecarlton.fr | 24 rooms | In-room: a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

THE ARTS IN AMIENS

The Théâtre de Marionnettes (31 rue Edouard-David | 80000 | 03–22–22–30–90 | www.ches-cabotans-damiens.com) presents a rare glimpse of the traditional Picardy marionettes, known locally as Chés Cabotans d’Amiens. Free shows are performed (in French), usually on Friday evening and Sunday afternoon (daily in August), with plot synopses printed in English.

BEAUVAIS

56 km (35 mi) south of Amiens via A16, 96 km (60 mi) west of Soissons.

Beauvais and its neighbor Amiens have been rivals since the 13th century, when they locked horns over who could build the bigger cathedral. Beauvais lost—gloriously.

Getting Here and Around

Trains from Paris (Gare du Nord) leave for Beauvais every hour (€12.40); the 80-km (50-mi) trip takes around 1 hour, 15 minutes. Buses run by the CAB’ARO line (03–44–48–08–47 | www.cabaro.info) run between Amiens and Beauvais six times daily (50 mi; 1 hr, 20 mins; €12). The Beauvais airport shuttle stops in the town center and train station daily (20 mins; €4 for 48-hour ticket).

Visitor Information

Beauvais Tourist Office.

| 1 rue Beauregard | 60000 | 03–44–15–30–30 | www.beauvaistourisme.fr.

EXPLORING BEAUVAIS

Soaring above the town center is the tallest cathedral in France: the Cathédrale St-Pierre.

You may have an attack of vertigo just gazing up at its vaults, 153 feet above the ground. Paid for by the riches of Beauvais’s wool industry, the choir collapsed in 1284, shortly after completion, and was rebuilt with extra pillars. This engineering fiasco proved so costly that the transept was not attempted until the 16th century. It was worth the wait: an outstanding example of Flamboyant Gothic, with ornate rose windows flanked by pinnacles and turrets. It’s also still standing—which is more than can be said for the megalomaniacal 450-foot spire erected at the same time. This lasted precisely four years; when it came crashing down, all remaining funds were hurled at an emergency consolidation program, and Beauvais’s dream of having the largest church in Christendom vanished forever. Now the cathedral is starting to lean, and cracks have appeared in the choir vaults because of shifting water levels in the soil. No such problems bedevil the Basse Oeuvre (Lower Edifice; closed to the public), which juts out impertinently where the nave should have been. It has been there for 1,000 years. Fittingly donated to the cathedral by the canon Étienne Musique, the oldest surviving chiming clock in the world—a 1302 model with a 15th-century painted wooden face and most of its original clockwork—is built into the wall of the cathedral. Perhaps Auguste Vérité drew his inspiration from this humbler timepiece when, in 1868, he made a gift to his hometown of the gilded, templelike astrological clock (€4 | Displays at 10:40, 11:40, 2:40, 3:40, and 4:40; English audio guide available), which features animated religious figurines that emerge for short presentations. | Rue St-Pierre | 60000 | www.cathedrale-beauvais.fr | May–Oct., daily 9–12:15 and 2–6:15; Nov.–Apr., daily 9–12:15 and 2–5:30.

From 1664 to 1939 Beauvais was one of France’s leading tapestry centers; it reached its zenith in the mid-18th century under the gifted artist Jean-Baptiste Oudry, known for his hunting scenes. Examples from all periods are in the modern Galerie Nationale de la Tapisserie (National Tapestry Museum) located next to the cathedral. | 22 rue St-Pierre | 60000 | 03–44–15–39–10 | Free | Apr.–Sept., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–noon and 2–6; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–5.

One of the few remaining testaments to Beauvais’s glorious past, the old Bishop’s Palace is now the Musée Départemental de l’Oise (Regional Museum). Don’t miss the beautifully proportioned attic story, Thomas Couture’s epic canvas of the French Revolution, the 14th-century frescoes of instrument-playing sirens on a section of the palace’s vaults, or the 1st-century brass Guerrier Gaulois (Gallic Warrior). | 1 rue du Musée | 60000 | 03–44–11–43–83 | www.cg60.fr | Free | Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN BEAUVAIS

Le Zinc Bleu.

$ | FRENCH | This lively brasserie opposite Beauvais cathedral (ask for a table under the glass veranda, or on the sidewalk terrace if the weather’s good) offers a choice between sturdy if unadventurous fare (salmon with tagliatelli, duck, various types of steak) and a wide choice of fresh seafood (crab, lobster, Normandy oysters). The Picardy Salada (warm beef with raw vegetables) makes a copious starter. The dining room has light wooden tables and bright modern pictures, but the openwork metal chairs can be a bit tough on the back, so mark this down as a lunch spot more than a place to linger over dinner. | 61 rue St-Pierre | 60000 | 03–44–45–18–30 | MC, V.

L’Ecume du Jour.

¢ | FRENCH | Half community-run café, half art gallery (and fair-trade products boutique), this is a great place to stop for a cool drink or a simple meal. Near the train station, the spot has a friendly, bohemian vibe. After enjoying your repas on the pretty mosaic tiled tables, head past the outdoor patio to the covered barn for the ever-changing art exhibitions. | 5 rue du Faubourg St-Jacques | 60000 | 03–44–02–07–37 | www.ecumedujour.org | No credit cards | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Chenal Hotel.

$–$$ | There are few hotels in central Beauvais and this four-square street-corner establishment is perhaps the most convenient of them, close to the train station, a 10-minute walk from the cathedral, and served by a shuttle bus from the Beauvais airport. Rooms are light and soberly decorated, if on the small side. Pros: free Wi-Fi; convenient location. Cons: small rooms; lacks charm. | 63 bd. Général-de-Gaulle | 60000 | 03–44–06–04–60 | chenalhotel.fr | 29 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

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Champagne Uncorked

CHAMPAGNE UNCORKED

Dom Pierre Pérignon was the first to discover the secret of Champagne’s production by combining the still wines of the region and storing the beverage in bottles. Today, the world’s most famous sparkling wine comes from the very same vineyards, along the towering Marne Valley between Épernay and Château-Thierry and on the slopes of the Montagne de Reims between Épernay and Reims.

When you take a Champagne tasting tour, you won’t be at the vineyards—it’s all done inside the various houses, miles away from where the grapes are grown. Champagne firms—Veuve-Clicquot, Mumm, Pommery, Taittinger, and others—welcome travelers into their chalky, mazelike cellars. Most of the big houses give tours of their caves (cellars). The quality of the tours is inconsistent, ranging from hilarious to despairingly tedious, though a glass of Champagne at the end makes even the most mediocre worth it (some would say). On the tours, you’ll discover that Champagne is not made so differently from the way the Dom did it three centuries ago.

BUBBLY BASICS

All About Grapes

Three types of grape are used to make Champagne: pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot meunier. The two pinots, which account for 75% of production, are black grapes with white juice. Rosé Champagne is made either by leaving pinot noir juice in contact with the grape skins just long enough to turn it pink, or by mixing local red wine with Champagne prior to bottling. Blanc de Blancs is Champagne made exclusively from white grapes. Blanc de Noirs is made exclusively from black grapes.

How Sweet it is

The amount of residual sugar determines the category—ranging from Demi-Sec (literally half-dry, actually sweet) with 33–55 grams of residual sugar per liter, to Extra-Brut (very dry) at less than 6 grams of residual sugar per liter. Classifications in between include Sec at 17 to 35 grams, Extra Dry at 12–20 grams, and Brut, under 15 grams.

Vintage vs. Nonvintage

Vintage Champagne is named for a specific year, on the premise that the grapes harvested in that year were of extraordinary quality to produce a Champagne by themselves without being blended with wine from other years. Cuvées de Prestige are the finest and most expensive Champagnes that a firm has to offer.

What You’ll Pay

Champagne relentlessly markets itself as a luxury product—the sippable equivalent of perfume and haute couture—so it’s no surprise that two of the top Champagne brands, Krug and Dom Pérignon, are owned by a luxury goods conglomerate (Louis Vuitton-Moët Hennessy). Sure, at small local producers, or in giant French hypermarkets, you can find a bottle of nonvintage bubbly for $15. But it’s more likely to be nearer $40 and, if you fancy something special—say a bottle of vintage Dom Perignon Rose—be prepared to fork out $350. One of the priciest Blanc de Noirs is Bollinger’s Vieilles Vignes—tagged at around $400. At the very top of the line is Krug’s single-vineyard Clos du Mesnil, with the stellar 1995 vintage retailing at around $750. Just 12,624 bottles were ever produced of this golden elixir.

THE MERRY WIDOW & THE STARSTRUCK MONK

Madame Clicquot (1777–1866)

Why the Nickname? Born Nicole-Barbe Ponsardin and married into the Clicquot family, Madame Clicquot was widowed just seven years after she married François Clicquot (in French, veuve means widow).

I’m a Hotshot Because . . .: After her husband’s death, she took over the firm and was one of France’s earliest female entrepreneurs and the smartest marketer of the Napoléonic era. During her 60 years in control of the firm, business soared.

Greatest Contribution: She invented the table de remuage—the slanted rack used for “riddling,” a method for capturing and releasing sediment that collects in the wine—a process that is still used today.

Bragging Rights: She persuaded Czar Alexander I to toast Napoléon’s demise with Champagne rather than vodka, and other royal courts were soon in bubbly pursuit.

Dom Pierre Pérignon (1638–1715)

Why the Nickname? When Dom Pierre first tasted his creation, he is quoted as saying that he was drinking stars.

I’m a Hotshot Because . . .: He discovered Champagne when he was about 30 years old while he was the cellarmaster at the Abbey of Hautvillers, just north of Épernay.

Greatest Contribution: He blended wines from different vats and vineyards (now a common practice but then a novelty), reintroduced corks—forgotten since Roman times—and used thicker glass bottles to prevent them from exploding during fermentation.

BRAGGING RIGHTS: Who else can claim the title Father of Champagne?

TOURING THE CELLARS

Experiencing the underground crayères is a must for any visit to Champagne. Many firms welcome visitors; for some you need to book in advance (by phone or via Web sites). All tours end with a tasting or three. Don’t forget a jacket or sweater---it’s chilly down there.

Reims

Closest to City Center

Mumm. Not the most spectacular cellars but a practical option if you have little time: You can walk it from the cathedral and the train station. Mumm was confiscated by the French state in World War I because it had always remained in German ownership. Visit starts with 10-minute film and ends with choice of three dégustations: the €20 option includes a rosé and a vintage grand cru. | 29 rue du Champ-de-Mars P03–26–49–59–69 | www.mumm.com | €10 | Mar.–Oct., Sat.–Fri. 9–11 and, 2–5; Nov.–Feb., Sat, 9–11 and 2–5.

Fanciest Architecture

Pommery. This turreted wedding-cake extravaganza on the city outskirts, was designed by Jeanne-Alexandrine Pommery (1819–90), another formidable Champagne widow. The 11 miles of cellars (about a hundred feet underground) are reached by a grandiose 116-step staircase. They include no fewer than 120 chalk pits, several lined with bas-reliefs carved into the rock. | 5 pl. du General-Gouraud | 03–26–61–62–55 | www.pommery.fr | €10 | Apr.–Nov., daily 9:30–7; Dec.–Mar., daily 10–6.

Most Expensive Visit

Ruinart. Founded back in 1729, just a year after Louis XV’s decision to allow wine to be transported by bottle (previously it could only be moved by cask) effectively kick-started the Champagne industry. Four of its huge, church-sized 24 chalk galleries are listed historic monuments. This is the costliest visit on offer—and, if you shell out €38, you can taste the Blanc de Blancs. | 4 rue des Crayères | 03–26–77–51–21 | www.champagne-ruinart.fr | €14.50 | Open by appointment.

Best for History Buffs

Taittinger. Cavernous chalk cellars, first used by monks for wine storage, house 15 million bottles and partly occupy the crypt of the 13th century abbey that used to stand on the spot. You can see a model of the abbey and its elegant church, both demolished at the Revolution. | 9 pl. St-Nicaise | 03–26–85–84–33 | www.tattinger.com | €8 | By appointment only: Mid-Mar.–mid-Nov., daily 9:30–1 & 2–5:30; mid-Nov.–mid-Mar., weekdays only.

ÉPernay

Best Museum

Castellane. Some of the region’s deepest cellars—down to 130 feet—and, above ground, a museum with an intriguing display of old tools, bottles, labels and posters. There’s also the chance to see the bottling and labeling plant, and climb to the top of a 200-foot tower for a great view over Épernay and the surrounding Marne vineyards. | 57 rue de Verdun | 03–26–51–19–19 | www.castellane.com | €8 (incl. museum) | Apr.–Dec., daily 10–noon and 2–6; Jan.–Mar., by appointment only.

Best High-Tech Visit

Mercier. Ride an electric train and admire the giant 200,000-bottle oak barrel it took 24 oxen three weeks to cart to the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1889. An elevator down to (and up from) the cellars is a welcome plus. | 75 av. de Champagne | 03–26–51–22–22 | www.champagne-mercier.fr | €8.50 | Mid-Mar.–mid-Nov., Thurs.–Mon. 9:30–11:30 and 2–4:30.

Longest Cellar Walk

Moët & Chandon. Foreign royalty, from Czar Alexander I to Queen Elizabeth II, have visited this most prestigious of all Champagne houses, founded by Charles Moët in 1743. The chalk-cellar galleries run for a mind-blowing 17 miles. The visit includes a glass of Brut Imperial; for €27 you can also taste a couple of vintages. | 18 av. de Champagne | 03–26–51–20–20 | www.moet.com | €14.50 | Mid-Nov.–Dec., Feb.–Mar., weekdays 9:30–11:30 and 2:30–4:30; Apr.–mid-Nov., daily 9:30–11:30 and 2:30–4:30.

Ladies’ Choice

Veuve-Clicquot. The 15-mile chalk galleries here were first excavated in Gallo-Roman times—back in the 3rd century AD! You can see and talk to cellar workers during the visit, and the souvenir shop has the most extensive range of gift ideas of any champagne house. This is Champagne’s most feminist firm—named for a woman, and still headed up by a woman today. | 12 rue du Temple | 03–26–89–53–90 | www.veuve-clicquot.com | €9 | Open by appointment Apr.–Oct., Mon.–Sat. 10–6; Nov.–Mar., weekdays 10–6.

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Main Table of Contents

Introducing Alsace-Lorraine

Alsace-Lorraine Planner

Getting Around

Nancy

Lorraine: Joan of Arc Country

Strasbourg

Alsace

Alsace-Lorraine In Depth

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented

Updated by Christopher Mooney

Only the Rhine separates Germany from Alsace-Lorraine, a region that often looks German and even sounds German. But its heart—just to prove how deceptive appearances can be—is passionately French. One has only to recall that Strasbourg was the birthplace of the Marseillaise national anthem to appreciate why Alsace and Lorraine remain among the most intensely French of all France’s provinces.

Yet no matter how forcefully the French tout its Frenchness, Alsace also has German roots that go deep, as one look at its storybook medieval architecture will attest. Its gabled, half-timber houses, ornate wells and fountains, oriels (upstairs bay windows), storks’ nests, and carved-wood balustrades would serve well as a stage set for the tale of William Tell and satisfy a visitor’s deepest craving for well-preserved old-world atmosphere. Strasbourg, perhaps France’s most fascinating city outside Paris, offers all this, and urban sophistication as well.

Lorraine, on the other hand, has suffered a decline in its northern industry and the miseries of its small farmers have left much of it tarnished and neglected—or, as others might say, kept it unspoiled. Yet Lorraine’s rich caches of verdure, its rolling countryside dotted with mirabelle (plum) orchards and crumbling-stucco villages, abbeys, fortresses, and historic cities, such as Art Nouveau-ed Nancy, offer a truly French view of life in the north. Its borders flank Belgium, Luxembourg, and Germany’s mellow Mosel (Moselle in French). Home of Baccarat and St-Louis crystal (thanks to limitless supplies of firewood from the Vosges Forest), the birthplace of Gregorian chant, Art Nouveau and Joan of Arc, Lorraine-the-underdog has much of its own to contribute.

The question remains: who put the hyphen in Alsace-Lorraine? Alsace’s strip of vine-covered hills squeezed between the Rhine and the Vosges Mountains started out being called Prima Germania by the Romans, and belonged to the fiercely Germanic Holy Roman Empire for more than 700 years. Yet west of the Vosges, Lorraine served under French and Burgundian lords as well as the Holy Roman Empire, coming into its own under the powerful and influential dukes of Lorraine in the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Stanislas, the duke of Lorraine who transformed Nancy into a cosmopolitan Paris of the East, was Louis XV’s father-in-law. Thus Lorraine’s culture evolved as decidedly less German than its neighbor to the southeast.

But then, in the late 19th century, Kaiser Wilhelm sliced off the Moselle chunk of Lorraine and sutured it, à la Dr. Frankenstein, to Alsace, claiming the unfortunate graft as German turf—as a concession after France’s surrender in 1871. At that point the region was systematically Teutonized—architecturally, linguistically, culinarily (“Ve haff our own vays of cookink sauerkraut!”)—and the next two generations grew up culturally torn. Until 1918, that is, when France undid its defeat and reclaimed its turf. Until 1940, when Hitler snatched it back and reinstated German textbooks in the primary schools. Until 1945, when France once again triumphantly raised the bleu-blanc-rouge over Strasbourg. Today, the regions remain both officially and proudly French.

TOP REASONS TO GO

The Wine Road: Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr are at the heart of the Alsatian wine route—two medieval villages filled with Hansel and Gretel houses, cellars bursting with bottles, and wine festivities.

Reborn Colmar: Although hit by two world wars, Colmar rebuilt itself, and the atmospheric maze of cobblestone streets and Petite Venise waterways of the Vieille Ville are pure enchantment.

Nancy’s Art Nouveau: The Art Nouveau capital of France as well as home to Place Stanislas—the most beautiful royal square in Europe—make the hub city of Lorraine an art lover’s paradise.

Joan of Arc Country: If you’re a fan of Jeanne d’Arc, then a pilgrimage to her birthplace in Domrémy-la-Pucelle is a must.

Strasbourg, Capital of Alsace: The symbolic capital of Europe is a cosmopolitan French city rivaled only by Paris in its medieval charms, history, and haute cuisine.

GETTING ORIENTED

Bordered by Germany, Alsace-Lorraine has often changed hands between the two countries in the last 350 years. This back-and-forth has left a mark—you’ll find that Germanic half-timber houses sometimes clash with a very French café scene. Art also pays homage to both nations, as you can see in the museums of Strasbourg, Alsace’s main hub. Eastward lies Lorraine, birthplace of Joan of Arc (and the famous quiche). Due west of Strasbourg on the other side of the Vosges Mountains, the main city of Nancy allures with Art Nouveau and elegant 18th-century architecture.

Nancy. When Stanislas Leszczynski, ex-king of Poland, succeeded in marrying his daughter to Louis XIV, he paid homage to the Sun King by transforming Nancy into another Versailles, embellishing the city with elegant showstoppers like Place Stanislas. Elsewhere in the city, you can sate your appetite for the best Art Nouveau at the Musée École de Nancy and the Villa Majorelle—after all, the style was born here.

Lorraine. In long-neglected Lorraine, many make the historical pilgrimage to Joan of Arc Country. France’s patron saint was born in Domrémy in 1411 and in nearby Vaucouleurs, the Maid of Orléans arrived to ask the help of the governor. If you listen carefully, you might hear the church bells in which Joan discerned voices challenging her to save France.

Strasbourg. An appealing combination of medieval alleys, international think tanks, and the European Parliament, this central hub of Alsace is best loved for the villagelike atmosphere of La Petite France, the looming presence of the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame, the rich museums, and the pints of beer sloshing around in the winstubs (wine-bistros).

Alsace. Tinged with a German flavor, Alsace is a never-ending procession of colorful towns and villages, many fitted out with spires, gabled houses, and storks’ nests in chimney pots. Here you can find the Route du Vin, the famous Alsatian Wine Road, with its vineyards of Riesling and Traminer. This conveniently heads south to Colmar, where the half-timber yellow-and pink-buildings of the centre ville seem cut out of a child’s coloring book. The town’s main treasure is Grünewald’s unforgettable 16th-century Issenheim Altarpiece.

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Transportation Basics | Making the Most of Your Time | Finding a Place to Stay | A Tippler’s Guide to Alsace | Touring Alsace | It’s Pronounced Veen-Shtoob | When to Go

TRANSPORTATION BASICS

Alsace is a small region and is fairly well interconnected with bus routes and train stations, making it possible to travel extensively by public transportation.

Be sure to load up on information (schedules, the best taxi-for-call companies, etc.) upon arriving at the ticket counter or help desk of the bigger train and bus stations in the area, such as Nancy, Strasbourg, and Colmar.

In Alsace, trains are the way to go. In Lorraine you may need to take short bus jaunts to the smaller towns.

To find out which towns are on the rail lines, pick up the Guide Régional des Transports, a free train and bus guide for both Alsace and Lorraine, at stations and tabacs (tobacco shops). You can also download the handy widgets from the TER Web site at www.ter-e-services.com/widget_itineraires/index.html.

It is best to keep on top of your plans if you want to use buses hereabouts. Unfortunately, schedules change rather frequently in Alsace-Lorraine.

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

If an overall experience is what you’re after, setting up headquarters in Strasbourg or Colmar will give you the best access to the greatest number of sites, either by public transport or car, while also residing in one.

If wine tasting and vineyards are your priority, setting up in either Riquewihr or Ribeauvillé will put you at the heart of the action.

Remember that many of the region’s towns and villages stage summer festivals.

The most notable are the spectacular pagan-inspired burning of the three pine trees in Thann (late June), the Flower Carnival in Sélestat (mid-August), and the wine fair in Colmar (first half of August).

And although Lorraine is a lusterless place in winter, Strasbourg pays tribute to the Germanic tradition with a Christmas fair.

FINDING A PLACE TO STAY

Alsace-Lorraine is well served in terms of accommodations.

From the picturesque villages of the Route du Vin, the “Fermes Auberges” of the Vosges to four-star palaces or international-style hotels in the main cities of Nancy and Strasbourg, the range is vast.

Since much of Alsace is in the “countryside” there’s also a range of gîtes, self-catering cottages or houses that provide a base for longer stays (www.gites-de-france.com).

Dining and Lodging Price Categories (in Euros)

Restaurants

Hotels

¢

under €13

under €65

$

€13–€17

€65–€105

$$

€18–€24

€106–€145

$$$

€25–€32

€146–€215

$$$$

over €32

over €215

Restaurant prices are per person for a main course at dinner, including tax (5.5%) and service; note that if a restaurant offers only prix-fixe (set-price) meals, it has been given the price category that reflects the full prix-fixe price. Hotel prices are for a standard double room in high season, including tax (19.6%) and service charge.

A TIPPLER’S GUIDE TO ALSACE

Winding south along the eastern foothills of the Vosges from Marienheim to Thann, the Alsatian Wine Road is home to delicious wines and beautiful vineyards. The 121-km (75-mi) Route du Vin passes through small towns, and footpaths interspersed throughout the region afford the opportunity to wander through the vineyards. Buses from Colmar head out to the surrounding towns of Riquewihr, St-Hippolyte, Ribeauvillé, and Eguisheim; pick up brochures on the Wine Route from Colmar’s tourist office. Although the route is hilly, bicycling is a great way to take in the countryside and avoid the parking hassle in the towns along this heavily traveled route.

Wine is an object of worship in Alsace, and any traveler down the region’s Route du Vin will want to become part of the cult. Just because Alsatian vintners use German grapes, don’t expect their wines to taste like their counterparts across the Rhine. German vintners aim for sweetness, creating wines that are best appreciated as an aperitif. Alsatian vintners, on the other hand, eschew sweetness in favor of strength, and their wines go wonderfully with knock-down, drag-out meals.

The main wines you need to know about are Gewürztraminer, Riesling, muscat, pinot gris, and sylvaner, all white wines. The only red wine produced in the region is the light and delicious pinot noir. Gewürztraminer, which in Germany is an ultrasweet dessert wine, has a much cleaner, drier taste in Alsace, despite its fragrant bouquet. It’s best served with the richest of Alsace dishes, such as goose. Riesling is the premier wine of Alsace, balancing a hard flavor with certain gentleness. With a grapy bouquet and clean finish, dry muscat does best as an aperitif. Pinot gris, also called tokay, is probably the most full-bodied of Alsatian wines. Sylvaner falls below those grapes in general acclaim, tending to be lighter and a bit dull. You can discover many of these wines as you drive along the Route du Vin.

TOURING ALSACE

For Colmar and its enchanting environs, take a highly recommended van tour with Les Circuits d’Alsace—castles, villages, and vineyards make for an exhilarating itinerary.

Les Circuits d’Alsace (8 pl. de la Gare, | Colmar | 68000 | 03–89–41–90–88 | www.alsace-travel.com).

IT’S PRONOUNCED VEEN-SHTOOB

Strasbourg and Nancy may be two of France’s more expensive cities, but you wouldn’t know it by all their down-to-earth eating spots with down-to-earth prices. Most notably, the regional winstubs (veen-shtoob), cozier and more wine-oriented than the usual French brasserie, are found in most Alsace towns and villages.

In Strasbourg and Nancy, as well as the villages along Alsace’s wine road, you’ll need to arrive early (soon after noon for lunch, before 8 for dinner) to be sure of a restaurant table in July and August. Out of season is a different matter throughout.

WHEN TO GO

Alsace is blessed with four distinct seasons and one of the lowest rainfalls in all of France—so anytime at all is the right time to visit, as each season attests.

Snow in winter adds magic to the Christmas markets; spring brings forth the scent of burgeoning grape flowers as the world turns green with life; summer can be warm, which rhymes with swarm; autumn is nature’s symphony of color as the leaves of tree and vine become a riot of golden yellows and oranges, as the grapes are being bountifully harvested.

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Air Travel | Bus Travel | Car Travel | Train Travel

AIR TRAVEL

International flights connect with Entzheim, near Strasbourg. The airport shuttle bus Navette Routière leaves the city center every half hour from Place de la Gare.

Aéroport International Strasbourg (Rte. de Strasbourg, 15 km [9½ mi] southwest of city, | 67960 | Entzheim | 03–88–64–67–67 | www.strasbourg.aeroport.fr).

BUS TRAVEL

The two main bus companies are Les Rapides de Lorraine, based in Nancy, and Compagnie des Transports Strasbourgeois, based in Strasbourg. Nancy, Strasbourg, and Colmar all have city buses. In Strasbourg, most of the 15 lines leave from the train station; bus tickets are good on city trams. Nancy’s central area is manageable on foot but Allô Bus has routes to help, most stopping on Rue St-Jean.

Compagnie des Transports Strasbourgeois (CTS | Strasbourg | 03–88–77–70–70 | www.cts-strasbourg.fr). Les Rapides de Lorraine (Nancy | 03–83–34–09–99, 03–83–36–41–14 Agence Ted for ticket information and tariffs | www.rapidesdelorraine.fr).

CAR TRAVEL

A4 heads east from Paris to Strasbourg, via Verdun, Metz, and Saverne. It’s met by A26, descending from the English Channel, at Reims.

A31 links Metz to Nancy, continuing south to Burgundy and Lyon. N83/A35 connects Strasbourg, Colmar, and Mulhouse.

A36 continues to Belfort and Besançon. A4, linking Paris to Strasbourg, passes through Lorraine via Metz, linking Lorraine and Alsace.

Picturesque secondary roads lead from Nancy and Toul through Joan of Arc country.

Several scenic roads climb switchbacks over forested mountain passes through the Vosges, connecting Lorraine to Alsace.

A quicker alternative is the tunnel under the Vosges at Ste-Marie-aux-Mines, linking Sélestat to Lunévillel.

Alsace’s Route du Vin, winding from Marlenheim, in the north, all the way south to Thann, is the ultimate in scenic driving.

TRAIN TRAVEL

Sixteen TGV trains leave Paris (Gare de l’Est) every hour for the 140-mins, 500-km (315-mi) journey to Strasbourg. Nancy is only 90 mins away on one of the 10 direct TGVs also leaving every hour, where there are connections for Toul and Épinal.

Several local trains a day run between Strasbourg and Colmar (40 mins distant), stopping in Sélestat (bus link to Ribeauvillé).

There’s also a snail-pace daily service from Strasbourg to Obernai, Barr, and Dambach-la-Ville. But you’ll need a car to visit smaller villages.

Train Information: Gare SNCF Colmar (Rue de la Gare | 68000 | 36–35). Gare SNCF Nancy (3 pl. Thiers | 54000 | 36–35). Gare SNCF Strasbourg (20 pl. de la Gare | 67000 | 36–35). SNCF (36–35 [€0.34 per min] | www.voyages-sncf.com). TGV (www.tgv.com).

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The Historic Center | Art Nouveau Nancy | Where to Eat in Nancy | Where to Stay in Nancy | Nightlife and the Arts in Nancy | Shopping in Nancy

For architectural variety, few French cities match Nancy, which is in the heart of Lorraine, 300 km (190 mi) east of Paris. Medieval ornamentation, 18th-century grandeur, and Belle Époque fluidity rub shoulders in the town center, where the bustle of commerce mingles with stately elegance. Its majesty derives from a long history as domain to the powerful dukes of Lorraine, whose double-barred crosses figure prominently on local statues and buildings. Never having fallen under the rule of the Holy Roman Empire or the Germans, this Lorraine city retains an eminently Gallic charm.

Getting Here and Around

The jewel in Lorraine’s tourism crown, Nancy, has benefited greatly from the introduction of the record-breaking TGV Est European (www.tgv.com/en) with 10 direct TGVs daily (one leaving almost every hour) from Paris’s Gare de l’Est, 7:12 AM to 8:12 PM, all making the run in 90 minutes. The 12:12 and 6:12 also service Épinal, 45 minutes farther on. Two others, 10:39 and 8:39, take a little longer and involve a change in Metz. Fares vary from €52.30 to €70.70 depending on the train type. Nancy’s train station (3 pl. Thiers | 54000), a 15-minute walk down Rue Stanislas from the town center, is open 24 hours. Fourteen direct trains to Strasbourg (€21.30) leave every 45 minutes from Nancy, and roughly every 10 minutes a train leaves for Metz (€9.30). There are frequent (every 20 minutes) daily TER services to Luneville (€6.30). The 45 lines of the TED bus service (03–83–36–41–14 | www.ted.cg54.fr) cover the entire département, leaving from Place de la République, for a €1.70 flat rate.

Visitor Information

Nancy Tourist Office.

| 14 pl. Stanislas | 54000 | 03–83–35–22–41 | www.ot-nancy.fr.

EXPLORING NANCY

Nancy is at its most sublimely French in its harmoniously constructed squares and buildings, which, as vestiges of the 18th century, have the quiet refinement associated with the best in French architecture. Curiously enough, it was a Pole, and not a Frenchman, who was responsible for much of what is beautiful in Nancy. Stanislas Leszczynski, ex-king of Poland and father of Maria Leszczynska (who married Louis XV of France) was given the Duchy of Lorraine by his royal son-in-law on the understanding that on his death it would revert to France. Stanislas installed himself in Nancy and devoted himself to the glorious embellishment of the city. Today Place Stanislas remains one of the loveliest and most perfectly proportioned squares in the world, with Place de la Carrière—reached through Stanislas’s Arc de Triomphe—with its elegant, homogeneous 18th-century houses, its close rival for this honor.

THE HISTORIC CENTER

Concentrated northeast of the train station, this neighborhood—rich in architectural treasures as well as museums—includes classical Place Stanislas and the shuttered, medieval Vieille Ville.

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN THE HISTORIC CENTER

Cathédrale.

This vast, frigid edifice was built in the 1740s in a ponderous Baroque style, eased in part by the florid ironwork of Jean Lamour. Its most notable interior feature is a murky 19th-century fresco in the dome. The Trésor (Treasury) contains minute 10th-century splendors carved of ivory and gold. | Rue St-Georges, Ville Neuve | 54000.

Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires (Museum of Folk Arts and Traditions).

Just up the street from the Palais Ducal, this quirky, appealing museum is housed in the Couvent des Cordeliers (Convent of the Franciscans), who were known as Cordeliers until the Revolution. It re-creates how local people lived in preindustrial times, using a series of evocative rural interiors. Craftsmen’s tools, colorful crockery, somber stone fireplaces, and dark waxed-oak furniture accent the tableaulike settings. The dukes of Lorraine are buried in the crypt of the adjoining Église des Cordeliers, a Flamboyant Gothic church; the gisant (reclining statue) of Philippa de Gueldra, second wife of René II, executed in limestone in flowing detail, is a moving example of Renaissance portraiture. The octagonal Ducal Chapel was begun in 1607 in the Renaissance style, modeled on the Medici Chapel in Florence. | 64 Grande-Rue, Vieille Ville | 54000 | 03–83–32–18–74 | www1.nancy.fr | €3.50, €5.50 joint ticket with Musée Lorrain | Tues.–Sun. 10–12:30 and 2–6.

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum).

In a splendid building that now spills over into a spectacular modern wing, a broad and varied collection of art treasures lives up to the noble white facade designed by Emmanuel Héré. Among the most striking are the freeze-the-moment realist tableaux painted by native son Émile Friant at the turn of the 20th century. A sizable collection of Lipschitz sculptures includes portrait busts of Gertrude Stein, Jean Cocteau, and Coco Chanel. You’ll also find 19th- and 20th-century paintings by Monet, Manet, Utrillo, and Modigliani; a Caravaggio Annunciation and a wealth of old masters from the Italian, Dutch, Flemish, and French schools; and impressive glassworks by Nancy native Antonin Daum. The showpiece is Rubens’s massive Transfiguration. Good commentary cards in English are available in every hall. | 3 pl. Stanislas, Ville Royale | 54000 | 03–83–85–30–72 | www.mairie-nancy.fr/culturelle/musee/html/beaux_arts.php | €6, €7.50 joint ticket with Musée de l’École de Nancy | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.

Palais Ducal (Ducal Palace).

This palace was built in the 13th century and completely restored at the end of the 15th century and again after a fire at the end of the 19th century. The main entrance to the palace, and the Musée Lorrain (Lorraine History Museum), which it now houses, is 80 yards down the street from the spectacularly Flamboyant Renaissance portal. A spiral stone staircase leads up to the palace’s most impressive room, the Galerie des Cerfs (Stags Gallery). Exhibits here (including pictures, armor, and books) recapture the Renaissance mood of the 16th century—one of elegance and merrymaking, with an undercurrent of stern morality: an elaborate series of huge tapestries, La Condemnation du Banquet (Condemnation of the Banquet), expounds on the evils of drunkenness and gluttony. Exhibits showcase Stanislas and his court, including “his” oft-portrayed dwarf; a section on Nancy in the revolutionary era; and works of Lorraine native sons, including a collection of Jacques Callot engravings and a handful of works by Georges de La Tour. | 64 Grande-Rue, Vieille Ville | 54000 | 03–83–32–18–74 | www1.nancy.fr | €4, €5.50 joint ticket with Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires | Tues.–Sun. 10–12:30 and 2–6.

Place Stanislas.

With its severe, gleaming-white Classical facades given a touch of Rococo jollity by fanciful wrought gilt-iron railings, this perfectly proportioned square, stylishly repaved in honor of its 250th anniversary in 2005, may remind you of Versailles. The square is named for Stanislas Leszczynski, twice dethroned as king of Poland but offered the Duchy of Lorraine by Louis XV (his son-in-law) in 1736. Stanislas left a legacy of spectacular buildings, undertaken between 1751 and 1760 by architect Emmanuel Héré and ironwork genius Jean Lamour. The sculpture of Stanislas dominating the square went up in the 1830s, when the square was named after him. Framing the exit, and marking the divide between the Vieille Ville and the Ville Neuve (New Town), is the Arc de Triomphe, erected in the 1750s to honor Louis XV. The facade trumpets the gods of war and peace; Louis’s portrait is here. | Ville Royale | 54000.

WORTH NOTING IN THE HISTORIC CENTER

La Pépinière.

This picturesque, landscaped city park has labeled ancient trees, a rose garden, playgrounds, a carousel, and a small zoo. | Entrance off Pl. de la Carrière, Vieille Ville | 54000.

Place de la Carrière.

Spectacularly lined with pollarded trees and handsome 18th-century mansions (another successful collaboration between King Stanislas and Emmanuel Héré), this UNESCO World Heritage Site’s elegant rectangle leads from Place Stanislas to the colonnaded facade of the Palais du Gouvernement (Government Palace), former home of the governors of Lorraine. | Vieille Ville | 54000.

Porte de la Craffe.

A fairy-tale vision out of the late Middle Ages, this gate is all that remains of Nancy’s medieval fortifications. With its twin turrets looming at one end of the Grande-Rue, built in the 14th and 15th centuries, this arch served as a prison through the Revolution. Above the main portal is the Lorraine Cross, comprising a thistle and cross. | Vieille Ville | 54000.

St-Epvre.

A 275-foot spire towers over this splendid neo-Gothic church rebuilt in the 1860s. Most of the 2,800 square yards of stained glass were created by the Geyling workshop in Vienna; the chandeliers were made in Liège, Belgium; many carvings are the work of Margraff of Munich; the heaviest of the eight bells was cast in Budapest; and the organ, though manufactured by Merklin of Paris, was inaugurated in 1869 by Austrian composer Anton Bruckner. | Pl. du Général-de-Gaulle, Vieille Ville | 54000 | Daily 3:30–6.

ART NOUVEAU NANCY

Think Art Nouveau, and many will conjure up the rich salons of Paris’s Maxim’s restaurant, the lavender-hue Prague posters of Alphonse Mucha, and the stained-glass dragonflies and opalescent vases that, to this day, remain the darlings of such collectors as Barbra Streisand. All of that beauty was born, to a great extent, in 19th-century Nancy. Inspired and coordinated by the glass master Émile Gallé, the local movement was formalized in 1901 as L’École de Nancy—from here, it spread like wildfire through Europe, from Naples to Monte-Carlo to Prague. The ensuing flourish encompassed the floral pâte de verre (literally, “glass dough”) works of Antonin Daum and Gallé; the Tiffany-esque stained-glass windows of Jacques Gruber; the fluidity of Louis Majorelle’s furniture designs; and the sinuous architecture of Lucien Weissenburger, Émile André, and Eugène Vallin. Thanks to these artists, Nancy’s downtown architecture gives the impression of a living garden suspended above the sidewalks.

NANCY 1900

History has a curious way of having similar events take place at the same time in different places. The creation of the Art Nouveau (New Art) movement is one such event. Simultaneously emerging from Pre-Raphaelite, High Victorian, and the Arts and Crafts movement in England, it was also a synthesis of the Jugenstil (Youth style) movement in Germany; the Skonvirke movement in Denmark; the Mloda Polska (Young Poland) style in Poland; Secessionism in Vienna; Modernism in Spain centered in Barcelona and the wild organic architectural flourishes of Gaudi; and the florid poster art of Alfons Mucha in Prague. Its fluid, undulating organic forms drawn from nature, seaweed forms, grasses, flowers, birds, and insects also drew inspiration from Symbolism and Japanese woodcuts.

One of its founding centers was Nancy, which at the time was drawing the wealthy French bourgeoisie of Alsace, recently invaded by Germany, who refused to become German. Proud of their opulence, they had sublime houses built that were entirely furnished, from simple vases and wrought-iron beds to bathtubs in the shape of lily pads, all in the pure Art Nouveau style. All of Nancy paid homage to this style.

Everywhere stylized flowers became the preferred motif. The tree and its leaves, and plants with their flowers, were modified, folded and curled to the artist’s demand. Among the main Art Nouveau emblems figure the lily, the iris, morning glory, bracken fern, poppies, peacocks, birds that feed on flowers, ivy, dragonflies, butterflies, and anything that evokes the immense poetry of the seasons. It reveals a world that is as fragile as it is precious.

By giving an artistic quality to manufactured objects, the creators of the École de Nancy accomplished a dream that had been growing since the romantic generation of Victorian England of making an alliance between art and industry. This was a major advance on the bourgeois bad taste for mass-produced imitations inspired by styles of the past. Nancy’s great strength was in this collaboration of art and industry.

Among the École de Nancy’s most outstanding contributors was Émile Gallé, who worked primarily in glass inventing new, patented techniques, and who brought luxury craftsmanship to a whole range of everyday products, thus reestablishing the link between the ordinary and the exceptional.

As a meeting point for the hopes and interests of artists, intellectuals, industrials, and merchants, the École de Nancy was a thoroughly global phenomenon. From Chicago to Turin, Munich to Brussels, and on to London, the industries of Nancy went on to conquer the world.

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN ART NOUVEAU NANCY

Musée de l’École de Nancy (School of Nancy Museum).

The only museum in France devoted to Art Nouveau is housed in an airy turn-of-the-last-century garden–town house. It was built by Eugène Corbin, an early patron of the School of Nancy. Re-created rooms and original works of art by local Art Nouveau stars Gallé, Daum, Muller, and Walter all allure. Gallé (1846–1904) was the engine that drove the whole Art Nouveau movement. He called upon artists to resist the imperialism of Paris, follow examples in nature (not those of Greece or Rome), and use a variety of techniques and materials. Many of their gorgeous artifacts are on view here. | 36 rue du Sergent-Blandan, Quartier Art-Nouveau | 54000 | 03–83–40–14–86 | www.ecole-de-nancy.com | €6, €7.50 joint ticket with Musée des Beaux-Arts | Wed.–Sun. 10–6.

Villa Majorelle.

This villa was built in 1902 by Paris architect Henri Sauvage for Majorelle himself. Sinuous metal supports seem to sneak up on the unsuspecting balcony like swaying cobras, and there are two grand windows by Gruber: one lighting the staircase (visible from the street) and the other set in the dining room on the south side of the villa (peek around from the garden side). | 1 rue Louis-Majorelle, Quartier Art-Nouveau | 54000.

WORTH NOTING IN ART NOUVEAU NANCY

Avenue Foch.

This busy boulevard lined with mansions was built for Nancy’s affluent 19th-century middle class. At No. 69, the occasional pinnacle suggests Gothic influence on a house built in 1902 by Émile André, who designed the neighboring No. 71 two years later. No. 41, built by Paul Charbonnier in 1905, bears ironwork by Majorelle. | Quartier Art-Nouveau | 54000.

Brasserie l’Excelsior.

This bustling brasserie has a severely rhythmic facade that is invitingly illuminated at night. Inside, the popular restaurant’s fin-de-siècle decor continues to evoke the Belle Époque. | Corner of Rue Mazagran and Rue Henri-Poincaré, Quartier Art-Nouveau | 54000.

No. 2 rue Bénit.

This elaborately worked metal exoskeleton, the first in Nancy (1901), exudes functional beauty. The fluid decoration reminds you of the building’s past as a seed supply store. Windows were worked by Gruber; the building was designed by Henry-Barthélemy Gutton, while Victor Schertzer conceived the metal frame. | Quartier Art-Nouveau | 54000.

No. 9 rue Chanzy.

Designed by architect Émile André, this lovely structure—now a bank—can be visited during business hours. You can still see the cabinetry of Majorelle, the decor of Paul Charbonnier, and the stained-glass windows of Gruber. | Quartier Art-Nouveau | 54000.

No. 40 rue Henri-Poincaré.

The Lorraine thistle and brewing hops weave through this undulating exterior, designed by architects Émile Toussaint and Louis Marchal. Victor Schertzer conceived this metal structure in 1908, after the success of No. 2 rue Bénit. Gruber’s windows are enhanced by the curving metalwork of Majorelle. | Quartier Art-Nouveau | 54000.

Nos. 42–44 rue St-Dizier.

Eugène Vallin and Georges Biet left their mark on this graceful 1903 bank. | Quartier Art-Nouveau | 54000 | Weekdays 8:30–5:30.

Rue Raugraff.

Once there were two stores here, both built in 1901. The bay windows are the last vestiges of the work of Charles Vallin, Émile André, and Eugène Vallin. | Corner of Rue St-Jean, Quartier Art-Nouveau | 54000.

WHERE TO EAT IN NANCY

Brasserie l’Excelsior.

$$ | FRENCH | Above all, you’ll want to eat in this 1911 restaurant, part of the dependable Flo group, for its sensational Art Nouveau stained glass, mosaics, Daum lamps, and sinuous Majorelle furniture. But the food is stylish, too, with succulent choices ranging from local goat cheese wrapped in bacon to a cod-and–roasted pepper crumble—and don’t miss out on the regional desserts like bergamot crème brûlée and French-toast style kougelhopf with caramel sauce. The white-aproned waiters are attentive and exude Parisian chic. | 50 rue Henri-Poincaré, Quartier Art-Nouveau | 54000 | 03–83–35–24–57 | www.brasserie-excelsior.com | MC, V.

Le Capucin Gourmand.

$$$ | FRENCH | Barely a stone’s throw from Place Stanislas and making the most of Nancy’s Art Nouveau pâte de verre, including a giant chandelier and glowing mushroom lamps on the tables, this chic landmark puts its best foot forward under chef Hervé Fourrière. The three-course lunch menu at €29 includes crayfish tails in a lavender-cream minestrone or a veal roulade with morels and polenta. Desserts are also noteworthy, with signature sweets including cherry-licorice soup, iced soufflé, and apricot tartlet. The choice of Toul wines is extensive. | 31 rue Gambetta, Ville Royale | 54000 | 03–83–35–26–98 | www.lecapu.com | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | No lunch Sat. No dinner Sun.

Le P’tit Cuny.

$ | FRENCH | If you were inspired by the rustic exhibits of the Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires, cross the street and sink your teeth into authentic Lorraine cuisine in the form of mouthwatering choucroutes, tête de veau (calf’s head), or foie gras–stuffed pig’s trotter. Tables inside are tight, creating a bustling, canteenlike atmosphere, and the quality of the service seems to vary with the weather, but the hearty food is irreproachable. | 95 Grande-Rue, Vieille Ville | 54000 | 03–83–32–85–94 | www.petitcuny.fr | AE, MC, V.

WHERE TO STAY IN NANCY

Grand Hôtel de la Reine.

$$$–$$$$ | This hotel is every bit as grand as Place Stanislas, on which it stands; the magnificent 18th-century building is officially classified as a historic monument. Guest rooms are in a suitably regal Louis XV style; the most luxurious overlook the square. The hotel’s spectacular restaurant, Le Stanislas (closed Sunday November–end of March; no lunch Saturday), aglitter with chandeliers and carved-wood boiseries is closed for renovations but expected to reopen in 2011. Pros: sumptuous location; old-world atmosphere. Cons: rooms get street noise; indifferent staff. | 2 pl. Stanislas, Ville Royale | 54000 | 03–83–35–03–01 | www.hoteldelareine.com | 42 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

Guise.

¢-$ | Deep in the shuttered Vieille Ville, this quiet and convivial hotel is in an 18th-century nobleman’s mansion with a magnificent stone-floor entry and a delightful walled garden. The newly renovated rooms are furnished with period pieces and charmingly incongruous floral patterns. Breakfast on the once-grand main floor and an excellent location make this a good choice if you’re a bargain-hunting romantic—and you can splurge on a suite for affordable luxury and an extra bed. Some self-catering accommodation is also available. Pros: tidy rooms; central location; helpful staff. Cons: no air-conditioning; heady decor. | 18 rue de Guise, Vieille Ville | 54000 | 03–83–32–24–68 | www.hoteldeguise.com | 48 rooms, 6 suites, 2 studios | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | BP.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN NANCY

Nancy has a rich cultural life that includes ballet, opera, and a highly renowned symphonic orchestra. The Orchestre Symphonique and Lyrique (03–83–85–33–11 | www.mairie-nancy.fr) organizes concerts from fall through spring. The Opéra National de Lorraine (03–83–85–33–20 | www.opera-national-lorraine.fr) is the fifth-ranked national regional opera of France, with a repertoire ranging from ancient to contemporary music. The Ballet de Lorraine (03–83–85–69–01 | www.ballet-de-lorraine.com) was created in 1978 to assume the mission of a national ballet; performances are staged in the Opéra de Nancy in the Place Stanislas.

Les Caves du Roy (9 pl. Stanislas, Ville Royale | 54000 | 03–83–35–24–14) attracts a young upscale crowd that comes to dance. Le Chat Noir (63 rue Jeanne-d’Arc, Ville Neuve | 54000 | 03–83–28–49–29 | www.lechatnoir.fr) draws a thirtysomething crowd to retro-theme dance parties. HW (1 ter rue du Général-Hoche, Ville Neuve | 54000 | 03–83–27–07–16) is a popular dance club.

SHOPPING IN NANCY

Ancienne Librairie Dornier (74 Grande-Rue, Vieille Ville | 54000 | 03–83–36–50–62), near the Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires, is an excellent bookstore that sells engravings as well as old and new books devoted to local history. Daum Boutique (14 pl. Stanislas, Vieille Ville | 54000 | 03–83–32–21–65 | www.daum.fr) sells deluxe crystal and examples of the city’s traditional Art Nouveau pâté de verre.

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Vaucouleurs | Domrémy-la-Pucelle | Épinal

Lorraine is the country of France’s patron saint, Joan of Arc. Follow D64 that winds between Contrexéville and Void, and you will be on Joan’s native soil, almost unchanged since the Middle Ages. In fact, she would probably find much of the countryside today familiar. Various towns bear witness. At Neufchâteau, then a fortified town guarding the region, the inhabitants of Domrémy sought refuge in 1428 from the English armies that menaced their village. It was in Domrémy that Joan was born in 1411, or a year later. Moving on, Vaucouleurs recalls Joan’s arrival in May 1428 to ask the help of the governor to see the king to plead for France’s cause—and achieve her destiny.

VAUCOULEURS

73 km (41 mi) southwest of Nancy on N4 and D964.

Above the modest main street in the market town of Vaucouleurs, you can see ruins of Robert de Baudricourt’s ancient medieval castle and the Porte de France, through which Joan of Arc led her armed soldiers to Orléans. The barefoot Maid of Orléans spent a year within these walls, arriving on May 13, 1428, to ask the help of the governor Baudricourt. After wheedling an audience with Baudricourt, she then convinced him of the necessity of her mission, learning to ride and to sword-fight. Won over finally by her conviction and popular sentiment, he offered to give her an escort to seek out the king. On February 23, 1429, clad in page’s garb and with her hair cut short, Jeanne d’Arc rode out through the Porte de France. A train route runs to Vaucouleurs from Toul and Nancy.

WHERE TO STAY IN VAUCOULEURS

Hostellerie de l’Isle en Bray.

$$ | Romantic and secluded, a night in the fine Renaissance-style Château de Montbras is ideal for indulging in Joan-of-Arc related medieval musings. With a history extending back five centuries, the château has an array of historical goodies—four grand stone bastion towers, an elegant wing graced with sculpted goddesses and ornament à la Androuet du Cerceau, and some rare Baroque paintings of Indian tribes of the Americas. Upstairs, guest rooms are spacious and tastefully appointed with authentic period furniture elegantly offset against bright fabrics or airy, soaring ceilings. The ambitious restaurant has stylish menus running about 35 euros. Pros: timeless charm and luxury; marvelous museum atmosphere; gentle prices. Cons: car indispensable. | 3 rue des Erables, 10 km (6 mi) south of Vaucouleurs on the D964 | 55140 | 03–29–90–86–36 | www.chateau-montbras.com | 5 rooms, 2 suites | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, tennis court, parking (free) | DC, MC, V | Closed Nov.–Mar.

DOMRÉMY-LA-PUCELLE

19 km (12 mi) south of Vaucouleurs on D964.

Joan of Arc was born in Domrémy-la-Pucelle in a stone hut in either 1411 or 1412. You can see it as well as the church where she was baptized, the actual statue of St. Marguerite before which she prayed, and the hillside where she tended sheep and first heard voices telling her to take up arms and save France from the English.

Getting Here and Around

From Nancy, 15 trains connect with Toul (€6.10); change for Neufchâteau, 39 km (24 mi) southwest of Nancy, for the twice-daily bus connection to Domrémy-la-Pucelle (€2.50), 10 km (6 mi) to the north of Neufchâteau, on the Vaucouleurs line.

EXPLORING DOMRÉMY-LA-PUCELLE

Fodor’s Choice | The humble stone-and-stucco Maison Natale Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc’s Birthplace)—an irregular, slope-roof, two-story cottage—has been preserved with style and reverence. The modern museum alongside, the Centre Johannique, shows a film (French only), while mannequins in period costume present Joan of Arc’s amazing story. After she heard mystical voices, Joan walked 19 km (12 mi) to Vaucouleurs. Dressed and mounted like a man, she led her forces to lift the siege of Orléans, defeated the English, and escorted the unseated Charles VII to Reims, to be crowned king of France. Military missions after Orléans failed—including an attempt to retake Paris—and she was captured at Compiègne. The English turned her over to the Church, which sent her to be tried by the Inquisition for witchcraft and heresy. She was convicted and burned at the stake in Rouen. One of the latest theories is that Jeanne d’Arc was no mere peasant but was distantly connected to France’s royal family—a controversial proposal that many historians now discount. | 2 rue de la Basilique | 88630 | 03–29–06–95–86 | €3 | Closed Jan., Nov.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–5; Apr.–Sept., daily 10–6.

The ornate late-19th-century Basilique du Bois-Chenu (Bois Chenu Basilica), high up the hillside above Domrémy, boasts enormous painted and mosaic panels expounding on Joan’s legend in glowing Pre-Raphaelite tones. Outside lurk serene panoramic views over the emerald, gently rolling Meuse Valley.

In the nearby forest of Bois-Chenu, perhaps an ancient sacred wood, Jeanne d’Arc gathered flowers. Near the village of Coussy, she danced with other children at country fairs attended by Pierre de Bourlémont, the local seigneur, and his wife Beatrice—the Château of Bourlémont may still be seen. Associated with Coussey and Brixey are Saints Mihiel and Catherine, who, with the Archangel Saint-Michael, appeared before Joan. In the Chapel of Notre-Dame at Bermont, where Joan vowed to save France, are the statues that existed in her time.

ÉPINAL

74 km (44 mi) southeast of Domrémy-la-Pucelle 72 km (45 mi) south of Nancy.

On the Moselle River at the feet of the Vosges, Épinal, a printing center since 1735, is famous throughout France for boldly colored prints, popular illustrations, and hand-color stencils.

The Cité de l’image, opened in 2003, combines a public exhibition space with the private museum of the town’s most famous printing workshop, l’Imagerie d’Épinal. | 42 quai de Dogneville | 88000 | 03–29–81–48–30 | €7 | Sept.–June, Mon.–Sat. 9:30–noon and 2–6, Sun. 10–noon and 2–6; July and Aug., Mon.–Sat. 9:30–12:30 and 1:30–6:30, Sun. 10–12:30 and 1:30–6. Open continuously every Fri.

On an island in the Moselle in the center of Épinal, the spectacular Musée Départemental d’Art Ancien et Contemporain (Museum of Antiquities and Contemporary Art) is in a renovated 17th-century hospital, whose ancient classical traces are still visible under a dramatic barrel-vaulted skylight. The crowning jewel here is Job Lectured by His Wife, one of the greatest works of Georges de la Tour, the painter whose candlelighted scenes constitute Lorraine’s most memorable artistic legacy. Other old masters, including works by Rembrandt, Fragonard, and Boucher, are on view, once part of the famous collection of the Princes of Salm. The museum also contains one of France’s largest collections of contemporary art, as well as Gallo-Roman artifacts, rural tools, and local faïence. | 1 pl. Lagarde | 88000 | 03–29–82–20–33 | €4.60 | Wed.–Mon. 9–12:30 and 1:30–6, Sun. 1:30–6.

The small but bustling Vieille Ville is anchored by the lovely old Basilique St-Maurice, a low gray-stone basilica blending Romanesque and Gothic styles. Note its sturdy belfry and deep, ornate, 15th-century entry porch. | Pl. St-Goëry | 88000 | 03–29–82–58–36.

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The Historic Heart | Beyond the Ill | Where to Eat in Strasbourg | Where to Stay in Strasbourg | Nightlife and the Arts in Strasbourg | Shopping in Strasbourg

Though centered in the heart of Alsace 490 km (304 mi) east of Paris, and drawing appealingly on Alsatian Gemütlichkeit (coziness), the city of Strasbourg is a cosmopolitan French cultural center and the symbolic if unofficial capital of Europe. Against an irresistible backdrop of old half-timber houses, waterways, and the colossal single spire of its red-sandstone cathedral, which seems to insist imperiously that you pay homage to its majestic beauty, Strasbourg is an incongruously sophisticated mix of museums, charming neighborhoods like La Petite France, elite schools (including that notorious hothouse for blooming politicos, the École Nationale d’Administration, or National Administration School), international think tanks, and the European Parliament. The strasbourgeoisie have a lot to be proud of.

Getting Here and Around

With the advent, in June 2007, of the TGV Est Européen (www.tgv.com), Strasbourg is now only 2 hours, 20 minutes away with any one of the 16 direct TGV trains from Paris, with fares ranging from €65.90 to €86. In addition to the extra-regional links to Nancy, Metz, Saarbrucken, Lyon, and Geneva, Strasbourg’s train station (20 pl. de la Gare) is at the heart of the regional TER train system and has direct trains at least every 30 minutes to Colmar (€10.40) and Sélestat (€7.50), where you can change for omnibus services to Ribeauvillé (€2.10) and Rosheim/Molseim (for Dambach la Ville, €7.60, and Obernai, €5.30). Call the “on demand” service (08–00–10–09–48) in Sélestat to arrange transport to Orschwiller (short walk to Haut-Koenigsbourg) for €1. Buses head out to Obernai and Wangenbourg (connection at Wasselonne for Saverne) from the Gare Routière (03–88–43–23-43) in Place des Halles. Strasbourg’s main train station is across the river from the city center, three-quarters of a mile from the cathedral, in the far west corner of the city.

Strasbourg has an extensive tram and bus network; most of the efficient lines of Companie des Transports Strasbourgeois (www.cts-strasbourg.fr) leave from the train station at 20 place de la Gare, travel down Rue du Vieux Marché aux Vins, and part ways at Place de la République. Tickets are good for one hour and can also be used on Strasbourg’s sleek tram that travels from the train station to Place de l’Homme and out to the burbs.

Walking tours of Strasbourg’s Vieille Ville are directed by the tourist office for €6.80 and depart at 2:30 every Saturday afternoon in low season, daily at 10:15 in July and August; many enjoy taking the Strasbourg minitram tours (03–88–77–70–03 | €5.20); they leave from Place du Cháteau, by the cathedral.

Strasbourg is a big town, but the center is easily explored on foot, or, more romantically, by boat. Fluvial Strasbourg (03–88–84–13–13 | www.strasbourg.port.fr) organizes 70-minute boat tours along the Ill four times a day in winter and up to every half hour starting at 10:30 during the day from April through October (plus nocturnal tours until 10 PM May–September). Boats leave from behind the Palais Rohan; the cost is €8.

Visitor Information

Strasbourg Tourist Office (17 pl. de la Cathédrale | 67000 | 03–88–52–28–28 | www.ot-strasbourg.fr | 4 pl. de la Gare | 67000 | 03–88–32–51–49); there’s also a city tourist office at the train station.

EXPLORING STRASBOURG

The Romans knew Strasbourg as Argentoratum before it came to be known as Strateburgum, or City of (Cross) Roads. After centuries as part of the Germanic Holy Roman Empire, the city was united with France in 1681, but retained independence regarding legislation, education, and religion under the honorific title Free Royal City. Since World War II Strasbourg has become a symbolic city, embodying Franco-German reconciliation and the wider idea of a united Europe. The city center is effectively an island within two arms of the River Ill; most major sites are found here, but the northern districts also contain some fine buildings erected over the last 100 years, culminating in the Palais de l’Europe. You can buy a one-day pass for all the city museums for €8 or a three-day pass for €10.

Note to drivers: the configuration of downtown streets makes it difficult to approach the center via the autoroute exit marked STRASBOURG CENTRE. Instead, hold out for the exit marked PLACE DE L’ÉTOILE and follow signs to CATHÉDRALE/CENTRE VILLE. At Place du Corbeau, veer left across the Ill, and go straight to the Place Gutenberg parking garage, a block from the cathedral.

THE HISTORIC HEART

This central area, from the cathedral to picturesque Petite France, concentrates the best of Old Strasbourg, with its twisting backstreets, flower-lined courts, tempting shops, and inviting winstubs (wine taverns).

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN THE HISTORIC HEART

Cathédrale Notre-Dame (Astronomical Clock).

Dark pink, ornately carved Vosges sandstone masonry covers the facade of this most novel and Germanic of French cathedrals, a triumph of Gothic art begun in 1176. Not content with the outlines of the walls themselves, medieval builders lacily encased them with slender stone shafts. The off-center spire, finished in 1439, looks absurdly fragile as it tapers skyward some 466 feet; you can climb 330 steps to the base of the spire to take in sweeping views of the city, the Vosges Mountains, and the Black Forest.

The interior presents a stark contrast to the facade: it’s older (mostly finished by 1275), and the nave’s broad windows emphasize the horizontal rather than the vertical. Note Hans Hammer’s ornately sculpted pulpit (1484–86) and the richly painted 14th- to 15th-century organ loft that rises from pillar to ceiling. The left side of the nave is flanked with richly colored Gothic windows honoring the early leaders of the Holy Roman Empire—Otto I and II, and Heinrich I and II. The choir is not ablaze with stained glass but framed by chunky Romanesque masonry. The elaborate 16th-century Chapelle St-Laurent, to the left of the choir, merits a visit; turn to the right to admire the Pilier des Anges (Angels’ Pillar), an intricate column dating from 1230.

Just beyond the pillar, the Renaissance machinery of the 16th-century Horloge Astronomique whirs into action daily at 12:30 PM (but the line starts at the south door at 11:45 AM): macabre clockwork figures enact the story of Christ’s Passion. One of the highlights: when the apostles walk past, a likeness of Christ as a rooster crows three times. | Pl. de la Cathédrale | 67000 | www.cathedrale-strasbourg.fr | Clock €2, spire platform €4.60 | Cathedral daily 7–11:30 and 12:30–7.

Musée Alsacien (Alsatian Museum).

In this labyrinthine half-timber home, with layers of carved balconies sagging over a cobbled inner courtyard, local interiors have been faithfully reconstituted. The diverse activities of blacksmiths, clog makers, saddlers, and makers of artificial flowers are explained with the help of old-time craftsmen’s tools and equipment. | 23 quai St-Nicolas | 67000 | 03–88–52–50–01 | www.musees-strasbourg.org | €5 | Mon. and Wed.–Fri. noon–6, weekends 10–6.

Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain (Modern and Contemporary Art Museum).

A magnificent sculpture of a building (designed by architect Adrien Faiensilber) that sometimes dwarfs its contents, this spectacular museum frames a relatively thin collection of new, esoteric, and unsung 20th-century art. Downstairs, a permanent collection of Impressionists and Modernists up to 1950 is heavily padded with local heroes but happily fleshed out with some striking furniture; all are juxtaposed for contrasting and comparing, with little to no chronological flow. Upstairs, harsh, spare works must work hard to live up to their setting; few contemporary masters are featured. Drawings, watercolors, and paintings by Gustave Doré, a native of Alsace, are enshrined in a separate room. | 1 pl. Hans-Jean Arp | 67000 | 03–88–23–31–31 | www.musees-strasbourg.org | €6 | Tues., Wed., and Fri. noon–7, Thurs. noon–9, weekends 10–6.

Musée de l’Œuvre Notre-Dame (Cathedral Museum).

There’s more to this museum than the usual assembly of dilapidated statues rescued from the cathedral before they fell off (you’ll find those rotting in the Barrage Vauban). Sacred sculptures stand in churchlike settings, and secular exhibits are enhanced by the building’s fine old architecture. Subjects include a wealth of Flemish and Upper Rhine paintings, stained glass, gold objects, and massive, heavily carved furniture. | 3 pl. du Château | 67000 | 03–88–32–88–17 | www.musees-strasbourg.org | €5 | Tues.–Fri. noon–6, weekends 10–6.

Palais Rohan (Rohan Palace).

The exterior of Robert de Cotte’s massive neoclassical palace (1732–42) may be starkly austere, but there’s plenty of glamour inside. Decorator Robert le Lorrain’s magnificent ground-floor rooms are led by the great Salon d’Assemblée (Assembly Room) and the book- and tapestry-lined Bibliothèque des Cardinaux (Cardinals’ Library). The library leads to a series of less august rooms that house the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (Decorative Arts Museum) and its elaborate display of ceramics. This is a comprehensive presentation of works by Hannong, a porcelain manufacturer active in Strasbourg from 1721 to 1782; dinner services by other local kilns reveal the influence of Chinese porcelain. The Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum), also in the château, includes masterworks of European painting from Giotto and Memling to El Greco, Rubens, and Goya. Downstairs, the Musée Archéologique (Archaeology Museum) displays regional archaeological finds, including gorgeous Merovingian treasures. | 2 pl. du Château | 67000 | 03–88–52–50–00 | www.musees-strasbourg.org | €5 each museum | Mon. and Wed.–Fri. noon–6, weekends 10–6.

Fodor’s Choice | Petite France.

With its gingerbread half-timber houses that seem to lean precariously over the canals of the Ill, its shops, and inviting little restaurants, this is the most magical neighborhood in Strasbourg. Historically Alsatian in style, “Little France”—the district is just southwest of the center—is filled with Renaissance buildings that have survived plenty of wars. Wander up and down the tiny streets that connect Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes and Rue des Dentelles to Grand-Rue, and stroll the waterfront promenade.

WORTH NOTING IN THE HISTORIC HEART

Barrage Vauban (Vauban Dam).

Just beyond the Ponts Couverts is the grass-roof Vauban Dam, built by its namesake in 1682. Climb to the top for wide-angle views of the Ponts Couverts and, on the other side, the Museum of Modern Art. Then stroll through its echoing galleries, where magnificent cathedral statuary lies scattered among pigeon droppings. The dam was closed for renovations in early 2010 but slated for reopening by 2011 | Ponts Couverts | 67000 | Free | Daily 9–7:30.

Musée Historique (Local History Museum).

This museum, in a step-gabled slaughterhouse dating from 1588, contains a collection of maps, armor, arms, bells, uniforms, traditional dress, printing paraphernalia, and two huge relief models of Strasbourg. | 3 pl. de la Grande-Boucherie | 67000 | 03–88–52–50–00 | www.musees-strasbourg.org | €5 | Mon. and Wed.–Fri. noon–6, weekends 10–6.

Ponts Couverts (Covered Bridges).

These three bridges, distinguished by their four stone towers, were once covered with wooden shelters. Part of the 14th-century ramparts that framed Old Strasbourg, they span the Ill as it branches into four fingerlike canals.

BEYOND THE ILL

If you’ve seen the center and have time to strike out in new directions, head across the Ill to view two architectural landmarks unrelated to Strasbourg’s famous medieval past: Place de la République and the Palais de l’Europe.

SIGHTS TO SEE BEYOND THE ILL

European Parliament.

This sleek building testifies to the growing importance of the governing body of the European Union, which used to make do with rental offices in the Palais de l’Europe. Eurocrats continue to commute between Brussels, Luxembourg, and Strasbourg, hauling their staff and files with them. One week per month, visitors can slip into the hemicycle and witness the tribune in debate, complete with simultaneous translation. Note: You must obtain a written appointment beforehand and provide a pièce d’identité (ID) before entering. | Behind Palais de l’Europe | 67000 | 03–88–17–52–85 | Free | Call or write ahead for appointment.

L’Orangerie.

Like a private backyard for the Eurocrats in the Palais de l’Europe, this delightful park is laden with flowers and punctuated by noble copper beeches. It contains a lake and, close by, a small reserve of rare birds, including flamingos and noisy local storks. | Av. de l’Europe | 67000.

Palais de l’Europe.

Designed by Paris architect Henri Bernard in 1977, this continental landmark is headquarters to the Council of Europe, founded in 1949 and independent of the European Union. A guided tour introduces you to the intricacies of its workings and may allow you to eavesdrop on a session. Arrange your tour by telephone in advance; appointments are fixed according to language demands and usually take place in the afternoon. Note: You must provide a pièce d’identité (ID) before entering. | Av. de l’Europe | 67000 | 03–90–21–49–40 for appointment | Free | Guided tours by appointment weekdays.

Place de la République.

The spacious layout and ponderous architecture of this monumental cirque (circle) have nothing in common with the Vieille Ville except for the local red sandstone. A different hand was at work here—that of occupying Germans, who erected the former Ministry (1902), the Academy of Music (1882–92), and the Palais du Rhin (1883–88). The handsome neo-Gothic church of St-Paul and the pseudo-Renaissance Palais de l’Université (University Palace), constructed between 1875 and 1885, also bear the German stamp. Heavy turn-of-the-20th-century houses, some reflecting the whimsical curves of the Art Nouveau style, frame Allée de la Robertsau, a tree-lined boulevard that would not look out of place in Berlin.

WHERE TO EAT IN STRASBOURG

Au Crocodile.

$$$$ | FRENCH | As one of the temples of Alsatian-French haute cuisine, this has the expected grand salon— renovated in 2009, and still asparkle with skylights and a spectacular 19th-century mural showing the strasbourgeoisie at a country fair—an exhaustive wine list, and some of the most dazzling dishes around, courtesy of new chef Philippe Bohrer, who formerly worked privately for French presidents Giscard d’Estaing and François Mitterand. Fittingly at a restaurant founded in the early 1800s, you get a real taste of the-way-Alsace-was here, but given a nouvelle spin. Delights include foie gras with spicy relish and green anise, caramelized monkfish, lobster with cep mushrooms, and iced meringue with warm fruit and lychee sorbet. Even more urban finesse is given to the theme menus that are occasionally offered (homages have included those to Europa, Mozart, and the TGV Est). As for Au Crocodile’s name, it refers to a stuffed specimen brought back by a Strasbourg general from Napoléon’s Egyptian campaign! | 10 rue de l’Outre | 67000 | 03–88–32–13–02 | www.au-crocodile.com | Reservations essential Jacket and tie | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon., late Dec.–early Jan., and 3 wks in July.

Chez Yvonne.

$ | FRENCH | Just around the corner from the cathedral is an eatery that is almost as exalted. Behind red-checked curtains you can find artists, tourists, lovers, and heads of state sitting elbow-to-elbow in this classic winstub, founded in 1873. All come to savor steaming platters of local specialties: watch for duck confit on choucroute, braised ham hocks, and quails stuffed with foie gras. Warm Alsatian fabrics dress tables and lamps, the china is regional, the photos historic—all making for chic, not kitsch. | 10 rue du Sanglier | 67000 | 03–88–32–84–15 | www.chez-yvonne.net | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V.

Fodor’s Choice | Le Buerehiesel.

$$$ | FRENCH | This lovely Alsatian farmhouse, reconstructed in the Orangerie park, warrants a pilgrimage if you’re willing to pay for the finest cooking in Alsace. New chef Eric Westermann (son of the former chef) focuses on the freshest of local-terroir specialities, supplemented by the best seafood of Brittany. The seasonal desserts are a standout. Two smaller salons are cozy, but most tables are set in a modern annex that is mostly glass and steel. In any event, plump European parlementaires come on foot; others might come on their knees. | 4 parc de l’Orangerie | 67000 | 03–88–45–56–65 | www.buerehiesel.fr | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon., 3 wks in Jan., and 3 wks in Aug.

Maison Kammerzell.

$$ | FRENCH | This restaurant, probably the most familiar house in Strasbourg, glories in its richly carved, half-timber 15th-century building and sumptuous allegorical frescoes by the aptly monikered Leo Schnug. Fight your way through the tourist hordes on the terrace and ground floor to one of the atmospheric rooms above, with their gleaming wooden furniture, stained-glass windows, and unrivaled views of the cathedral. Foie gras and choucroute are best bets, though you may want to try the chef’s pet discovery, choucroute with freshwater fish. | 16 pl. de la Cathédrale | 67000 | 03–88–32–42–14 | www.maison-kammerzell.com | AE, DC, MC, V.

Strissel.

$ | FRENCH | This cozy, rustic winstub near the cathedral, in business since the 16th century, is now owned by Jean-Louis De Valmigere, the force behind Chez Yvonne. Happily, he has not changed anything of the charming decor, but only added lights. It has a good choice of Alsace wines and some of the finest choucroute in town (the chef is still the same), often served with pike-perch as a specialty. Menus run from €21.70 to €26.90 and the plat du jour is €6.90. Try for a room upstairs to admire the stained-glass windows with their tales of life in the vines. | 5 pl. de la Grande-Boucherie | 67000 | 03–88–32–14–73 | www.strissel.fr | AE, MC, V.

WHERE TO STAY IN STRASBOURG

Cathédrale.

$$–$$$ | A sleek marble lobby abuts lounges, a bar, and a breakfast room that are rich with ancient beams and sandstone. Rooms feature dark timbers, and most have windows framing a view of the 16th-century half-timber Maison Kammerzell or the cathedral. The location is to die for, but if you prefer absolute silence in the evening, ask for a room that doesn’t face the square (though you’ll miss out on the view). Pros: comfortable, clean rooms; across from the cathedral. Cons: some rooms are small; rooms with view of cathedral get some street noise. | 13 pl. de la Cathédrale | 67000 | 03–88–22–12–12 | www.hotel-cathedrale.fr | 47 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

Hôtel Gutenberg.

$–$$ | In a 250-year-old mansion just off Place Gutenberg, this sturdy urban hotel, ideal for those on a tight budget, has rooms with fresh, old-fashioned wallpaper, chandeliers, and built-in wood cabinetry. Charming little fifth-floor lofts reveal roof timbers, and air-conditioning allows you to close the windows if the street noise gets too much. The skylighted breakfast room is inviting but sometimes a little crowded, so consider an early start or be prepared to wait for or share a table. The English-speaking staff is friendly, and the quaint location is only a few blocks from the cathedral. Pros: excellent value; old-world style with modern conveniences. Cons: some street noise; elevator doesn’t reach the top floor. | 31 rue des Serruriers | 67000 | 03–88–32–17–15 | www.hotel-gutenberg.com | 42 rooms | In-room: a/c, Internet | AE, MC, V | BP.

Hôtel Rohan.

$$$ | Across from the cathedral on a picturesque pedestrian street, this modest little hotel has a welcoming air and a marvelous sense of French style, from the Louis XV furniture to the gilt mirrors. Though swagged in rich fabrics, rooms are fully modern, with impeccable all-tile showers (but only the “superieur” rooms come with tubs). Breakfast costs extra, so an early spin around the surrounding streets might bring richer and less pricey pickings. Pros: great location; air-conditioned. Cons: small standard rooms; pricey breakfast. | 17 rue Maroquin | 67000 | 03–88–32–85–11 | www.hotel-rohan.com | 36 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V.

Régent-Petite France.

$$$–$$$$ | Opposite the Ponts Couverts and surrounded by canals, this centuries-old former ice factory—replete with noble pediment and mansard roofs—has been transformed into a boldly modern luxury hotel. Delightfully set in the heart of Strasbourg’s quaintest quarter, La Petite France, the hotel welcomes you with a spacious marble vestibule, vivid graffiti art, and Le Pont Tournant, an eye-popping modernistic restaurant done up in white, pinks, and reds (enjoy its summer tables over the torrent). Upstairs, Philippe Starck–inspired sculptural room furnishings contrast sharply with the half-timber houses and roaring river viewed from nearly every room. There’s no skimping on the amenities—both the beds and the bathrooms are divine. Pros: beautiful rooms; ideal location; great service. Cons: disappointing breakfast; restaurant closed Sunday and Monday. | 5 rue des Moulins | 67000 | 03–88–76–43–43 | www.regent-petite-france.com | 72 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN STRASBOURG

The annual Festival Musica (Contemporary Music Festival | Cité de la Musique et de la Danse, 1 pl. Dauphine | 67000 | 03–88–23–46–46 | www.festival-musica.org) is held in September and October. The Opéra National du Rhin (19 pl. Broglie | 67000 | 03–88–75–48–23 | www.operanationaldurhin.fr) has a sizable repertoire.Classical concerts are staged by the Orchestre Philharmonique (Palais des Congrès | 67000 | 03–88–15–09–09 | www.philharmonique-strasbourg.com).

The Vieille Ville neighborhood east of the cathedral, along Rue des Frères, is the nightlife hangout for university students and twentysomethings; among its handful of heavily frequented bars is La Laiterie (13 rue Hohwald | 67000 | 03–88–23–72–37 | www.laiterie.artefact.org), a multiplex concert hall showcasing art, workshops, and music ranging from electronic to post-rock and reggae. Le Chalet Club(376 rte. de la Wantzenau | 67000 | 03–88–31–18–31 | www.strasbourg-by-night.com) is the biggest and most popular disco, but it’s some 10 km (6 mi) northeast of the city center.

SHOPPING IN STRASBOURG

The lively city center is full of boutiques, including chocolate shops and delicatessens selling locally made foie gras. Look for warm paisley linens and rustic homespun fabrics, Alsatian pottery, and local wines. Forming the city’s commercial heart are Rue des Hallebardes, next to the cathedral; Rue des Grandes Arcades, with its shopping mall; and Place Kléber. An antiques market takes place behind the cathedral on Rue du Vieil-Hôpital, Rue des Bouchers, and Place de la Grande Boucherie every Wednesday and Saturday morning.

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Obernai | Mont-Ste-Odile | Barr | Andlau | Dambach-la-Ville | Sélestat | Haut-Koenigsbourg | Ribeauvillé | Riquewihr | Colmar

The Rhine River forms the eastern boundary of both Alsace and France. But the best of Alsace is not found along the Rhine’s industrial waterfront. Instead it’s in the Ill Valley at the base of the Vosges, southwest of cosmopolitan Strasbourg. Northwest is Saverne and the beginning of the Route du Vin, the great Alsace Wine Road, which winds its way south through the Vosges foothills, fruitful vineyards, and medieval villages that would serve well as stage sets for Rossini’s William Tell. Signs for the road help you keep your bearings on the twisting way south, and you’ll find limitless opportunities to stop at wineries and sample the local wares. The Wine Road stretches 170 km (100 mi) between Thann and Marienheim, and is easily accessible from Strasbourg or Colmar. Many of the towns and villages have designated “vineyard trails” winding between towns (a bicycle will help you cover a lot of territory). Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé—accessible by bus from Colmar and Sélestat rail stations—are connected by an especially picturesque route. Along the way, stop at any “Dégustation” sign for a free tasting and pick up brochures on the Alsace Wine Road at any tourist office.

OBERNAI

30 km (19 mi) southwest of Strasbourg via A35/N422.

Many visitors begin their saunter down the Route du Vin at Obernai, a thriving, colorful Renaissance market town named for the patron saint of Alsace. Head to the central town enclosed by the ramparts to find some particularly Nikon-friendly sites, including a medieval belfry, Renaissance well, and late-19th-century church.

Getting Here and Around

Strasbourg’s train station (20 pl. de la Gare | 67210) is at the heart of the regional TER train system and has trains via Sélestat (€7.50) every 30 minutes to Colmar (€10.40)—the city at the southern end of Alsace’s Route du Vin. Change in Sélestat for omnibus services to Rosheim/Molsheim (via Obernai, €5.30). Strasbourg also has an extensive tram and bus network that includes buses to Obernai from its Gare Routière in Place des Halles.

Visitor Information

Obernai Tourist Office.

| Pl. du Beffroi | 067210 | 03–88–95–64–13 | www.obernai.fr.

EXPLORING OBERNAI

Place du Marché, in the heart of town, is dominated by the stout, square 13th-century Kapelturm Beffroi (Chapel Tower Belfry), topped by a pointed steeple flanked at each corner by frilly openwork turrets added in 1597.

An elaborate Renaissance well near the belfry, the Puits à Six-Seaux (Well of Six Buckets) was constructed in 1579; its name recalls the six buckets suspended from its metal chains.

The twin spires of the parish church of St-Pierre–St-Paul compete with the belfry for skyline preeminence. They date, like the rest of the church, from the 1860s, although the 1504 Holy Sepulchre altarpiece in the north transept is a survivor from the previous church. Other points of interest include the flower-bedecked Place de l’Étoile and the Hôtel de Ville, whose council chamber and historic balcony can be viewed.

WHERE TO STAY IN OBERNAI

La Cloche.

¢ | Stained glass, dark oak, and Hansi-like murals set the tone in this sturdy half-timber 14th-century landmark on Obernai’s market square. Rooms are well equipped and country-pretty; two double-decker duplex rooms accommodate four. In the adjoining restaurant, the excellent-value menus (€15–€21), comprising regional dishes and blackboard specials, draw locals on market days. Pros: good value; good restaurant; very friendly staff. Cons: spotty Wi-Fi coverage; doesn’t accept American Express. | 90 rue du Général-Gouraud | 67210 | 03–88–95–52–89 | www.la-cloche.com | 20 rooms | In-room: a/c, Wi-Fi (some). In-hotel: restaurant, bar | MC, V | Closed 2 wks in Jan. | MAP.

Fodor’s Choice | L’Ami Fritz.

$–$$ | White-shuttered, flower-bedecked, with sunny yellow walls, this welcoming inn combines style, rustic warmth, and three generations of family tradition. Set several miles west of Obernai, the reader-recommended, picture-perfect 18th-century stone house has impeccable guest rooms decked in toile de Jouy and homespun checks (opt for rooms in the main hotel, not in the adjacent annex). Some suites can sleep three, making them good for families, and the heated outdoor pool also comes in handy. The fine restaurant (reservations essential; closed to nonguests Wednesday) is one of the region’s top attractions. Here you can feast on Patrick Fritz’s sophisticated twists on regional specialties, including feather-light blood sausage in flaky pastry, a delicate choucroute of grated turnips, or the gratinéed freshwater fish braised in Sylvaner. Don’t miss the fruity red wine, an Ottrott exclusive. Pros: beautiful location; friendly staff. Cons: a car is needed to reach property; uneven service. | 8 rue des Châteaux, 5 km (3 mi) west of Obernai | 67530 | Ottrott | 03–88–95–80–81 | www.amifritz.com | 22 rooms | In-room: a/c (some), refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, pool, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed 1st 2 wks in July and 2 wks mid-Jan. | MAP.

SHOPPING IN OBERNAI

Dietrich (58 and 74 rue du Général-Gouraud | 67210 | 03–88–95–57–58 | www.dietrich-obernai.fr) has a varied selection of Beauvillé linens, locally handblown Alsatian wineglasses, and Obernai-pattern china.

MONT-STE-ODILE

12 km (8 mi) southwest of Obernai via Ottrott.

Mont-Ste-Odile, a 2,500-foot hill, has been an important religious and military site for 3,000 years. The eerie 9½-km-long (6-mi-long) Mur Païen, up to 12 feet high and, in parts, several feet thick, rings the summit; its mysterious origins and purpose still baffle archaeologists. The Romans established a settlement here and, at the start of the 8th century, the daughter of Duke Etichon of Obernai, Odile, who had been born blind, founded a convent on the same spot after receiving her sight while being baptized. The relatively modern convent is now a workaday hostelry for modern pilgrims on group retreats. Odile—the patron saint of Alsace—died here in AD 720; her sarcophagus rests in the 12th-century Chapelle Ste-Odile. The spare, Romanesque Chapelle de la Croix adjoins Ste-Odile. Various regional bus lines can connect you with Mont-St-Odile.

BARR

8 km (5 mi) south of Obernai.

Surrounded by vineyards that harvest some of the finest vintages of Sylvaner and Gewürztraminer wines, Barr is a thriving, semi-industrial town surrounded by vines, with some charming narrow streets lined with half-timber houses (notably Rue des Cigognes, Rue Neuve, and the tiny Rue de l’Essieu), a cheerful 17th-century Hôtel de Ville, and a decorative arts museum. Most buildings date from after a catastrophic fire in 1678; the only medieval survivor is the Romanesque tower of St-Martin, the Protestant church.

Admire original furniture, local porcelain, earthenware, and pewter at the Musée de la Folie Marco, in a mansion built by local magistrate Félix Marco in 1763. One section of the museum explains the traditional process of schlittage: sleds, bearing bundles of freshly sawed tree trunks, once slid down the forest slopes over a “corduroy road” made of logs. | 30 rue du Dr-Sultzer | 67140 | 03–88–08–94–72, 03–88–08–66–65 in winter | €4 | June–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6; May and Oct., weekends 10–noon and 2–6.

ANDLAU

3 km (2 mi) southwest of Barr on Rte. du Vin.

Andlau has long been known for its magnificent abbey. Built in the 12th century, the Abbaye d’Andlau has the richest ensemble of Romanesque sculpture in Alsace. Sculpted vines wind their way around the doorway as a reminder of wine’s time-honored importance to the local economy. A statue of a female bear, the abbey mascot—bears used to roam local forests and were bred at the abbey until the 16th century—can be seen in the north transept. Legend has it that Queen Richarde, spurned by her husband, Charles the Fat, founded the abbey in AD 887 when an angel enjoined her to construct a church on a site to be shown to her by a female bear.

WHERE TO STAY IN ANDLAU

Arnold.

$–$$ | This yellow-wall, half-timber hillside hotel overlooks the cute wine village of Itterswiller; most rooms have views across the vines. The cheapest rooms, on the top floor, have a shower and no balcony; the priciest have a bath and a balcony facing south. The wood-beam lobby with its wrought-iron staircase has the same quaint charm as the hotel’s winstub-style restaurant (no dinner Sunday, closed Monday, May to November) across the street, with its old winepress and local Alsace wines served by the jug; homemade foie gras and venison in cranberry sauce top the menu, along with sauerkraut and baeckeoffe (meat-and-potato casserole). Pros: all-around excellence; good half-board meal plan. Cons: no air-conditioning; inconsistent service. | 98 rte. des Vins, 3 km (2 mi) south of Andlau on D253, | 67140 | Itterswiller | 03–88–85–50–58 | www.hotel-arnold.com | 29 rooms | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | MAP.

DAMBACH-LA-VILLE

8 km (5 mi) southeast of Andlau via Itterswiller.

Getting Here and Around

Strasbourg’s train station (20 pl. de la Gare | 67110) is at the heart of the regional TER train system and has trains via Sélestat (€7.50) every 30 minutes to Colmar (€10.40)—the city at the southern end of Alsace’s Route du Vin. Change in Sélestat for omnibus services to Rosheim/Molsheim (for Dambach la Ville, €7.60).

EXPLORING DAMBACH-LA-VILLE

One of the prettiest villages along the Alsace Wine Road, Dambach-la-Ville is a fortified medieval town protected by ramparts and three powerful 13th-century gateways. It’s particularly rich in half-timber, high-roof houses from the 17th and 18th centuries, clustered mainly around Place du Marché (Market Square). Also on the square is the 16th-century Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall). As you walk the charming streets, notice the wrought-iron signs and rooftop oriels.

WHERE TO STAY IN DAMBACH-LA-VILLE

Le Vignoble.

¢ | Set in a beautifully restored 18th-century barn next to the village church, this unpretentious hotel offers real, rustic Alsatian charm. The guest rooms are quiet and comfy. In good weather, take advantage of the pleasant garden and courtyard. Although some are on the small side, guest rooms are quiet and comfy, with functional dark-wood furnishings; the best have balconies overlooking the street. Pros: wine-route location; warm Alsatian welcome. Cons: no air-conditioning; no restaurant. | 1 rue de l’Eglise | 67650 | 03–88–92–62–21 | www.hotel-vignoble-alsace.fr | 7 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Internet | DC, MC, V | Closed mid-Dec.–early Jan. | MAP.

SÉLESTAT

9 km (5½ mi) southeast of Dambach via D210 and N422, 47 km (29 mi) southwest of Strasbourg.

Sélestat, midway between Strasbourg and Colmar, is a lively, historic town with a Romanesque church and a library of medieval manuscripts (and, important to note, a railway station with trains to and from Strasbourg). Head directly to the Vieille Ville and explore the quarter on foot.

Getting Here and Around

Strasbourg’s train station (20 pl. de la Gare | 67600) is at the heart of the regional TER train system and has trains every 30 minutes to Sélestat, €7.50.

Visitor Information

Sélestat Tourist Office.

| 10 bd. du Mal-Leclerc | 67600 | 03–88–58–87–20 | www.selestat-tourisme.com.

EXPLORING SÉLESTAT

The church of St-Foy (Pl. du Marché-Vert | 67600) dates from between 1155 and 1190; its Romanesque facade remains largely intact (the spires were added in the 19th century), as does the 140-foot octagonal tower over the crossing. Sadly, the interior was mangled over the centuries, chiefly by the Jesuits; their most inspired legacy is the Baroque pulpit of 1733 depicting the life of St. Francis Xavier. Note the Romanesque bas-relief next to the baptistery, originally the lid of a sarcophagus.

Among the precious medieval and Renaissance manuscripts on display at the Bibliothèque Humaniste (Humanist Library), a major library founded in 1452 and installed in the former Halle aux Blés, are a 7th-century lectionary and a 12th-century Book of Miracles. There’s also a town register from 1521, with the first-ever recorded reference to a Christmas tree! | 1 rue de la Bibliothèque | 67600 | 03–88–58–07–20 | www.bh-selestat.fr | €3.90 | Sept.–June, Mon. and Wed.–Fri. 9–noon and 2–6, Sat. 9–noon; July and Aug., Mon. and Wed.–Fri. 9–noon and 2–6, weekends 2–5.

HAUT-KOENIGSBOURG

11 km (7 mi) west of Sélestat via D159.

One of the most popular spots in Alsace is the romantic, crag-top castle of Haut-Koenigsbourg, originally built as a fortress in the 12th century.

Fodor’s Choice | The ruins of the Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg were presented by the town of Sélestat to German emperor Wilhelm II in 1901. The château looked just as a kaiser thought one should, and he restored it with some diligence and no lack of imagination—squaring the main tower’s original circle, for instance. The site, panorama, drawbridge, and amply furnished imperial chambers may lack authenticity, but they are undeniably dramatic. Call the “on demand” service (08–00–10–09–48) in Sélestat to arrange transport to Orschwiller (Haut-Koenigsbourg). | 03–88–82–50–60 | www.haut-koenigsbourg.fr |  €7.50 | Nov.–Feb., daily 9:45–noon and 1–4:30; Mar. and Oct., daily 9:45–4:30; Apr., May, and Sept., daily 9:30–5; June–Aug., daily 9:30–6.

RIBEAUVILLÉ

13 km (8 mi) south of Haut-Koenigsbourg via St-Hippolyte, 16 km (10 mi) southwest of Sélestat.

The beautiful half-timber town of Ribeauvillé, surrounded by rolling vineyards and three imposing châteaux, produces some of the best wines in Alsace. (The Trimbach family has made Riesling and superb Gewürztraminer here since 1626.) The town’s narrow main street, crowded with winstubs, pottery shops, bakeries, and wine sellers, is bisected by the 13th-century Tour des Bouchers, a clock-belfry completed (gargoyles and all) in the 15th century.

Getting Here and Around

Strasbourg’s train station (20 pl. de la Gare | 68150) is at the heart of the regional TER train system and has trains every 30 minutes to Colmar (€10.40) via Sélestat (€7.50), where you can change for omnibus services to Ribeauvillé (€2.10).

Visitor Information

Ribeauvillé Tourist Office.

| 1 Grand Rue | 68150 | 03–89–73–23–23 | www.ribeauville-riquewihr.com.

EXPLORING RIBEAUVILLÉ

Storks’ nests crown several towers in Ribeauvillé, while streets are adorned with quaint shop signs, fairy-tale turrets, and tour guides herding the crowds with directions in French and German. Head for the Place de la Marie and its Hôtel de Ville to see its famous collection of silver-gilt 16th-century tankards and chalices.

Place de la Marie is a great place to perch come every first Sunday in September, when the town hosts a grand parade to celebrate the Fête des Ménétriers (Fête of the Minstrels), a day when at least one fountain here spouts free Riesling. Headlined by medieval musicians, the party begins mid-afternoon, while the best street seats go for €10 each. Contact the tourist office early for information.

WHERE TO EAT IN RIBEAUVILLÉ

Fodor’s Choice | L’Auberge de l’Ill.

$$$$ | FRENCH | England’s late Queen Mother, Marlene Dietrich, and Montserrat Caballé are just a few of the famous who have feasted at this culinary temple, but, oddly, the place has never been as famous as it should be, the long trek from Paris to the half-timber village of Illhaeusern perhaps the reason. Still, you need to book weeks in advance (closed Monday and Tuesday) to snare a table in this classic yet casual dining room. Master chef Paul Haeberlin died in 2008, but his son Marc continues to marry grand and Alsatian cuisine with Asian nuances (a second Auberge de l’Ill opened in Japan in 2007). The results are impressive: salmon soufflé, lamb chops in dainty strudel, and showstoppers like le homard Prince Vladimir, or lobster with shallots braised in champagne and crème fraîche. Germanic-Alsatian flair is particularly apparent in such dishes as the truffled baeckeoffe (baker’s oven), a casserole-terrine of lamb and pork with leeks. The kitchen’s touch is incredibly light, so you’ll have room to savor such master desserts as white peaches served in a chocolate “butterfly” with champagne sabayon sauce. The prix-fixe lunch, at €117, is the closest thing you’ll find to a bargain. | 2 rue de Collonges-au Mont d’Or10 km (6 mi) east of Ribeauvillé, | 68970 | Illhaeusern | 03–89–71–89–00 | www.auberge-de-l-ill.com | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Mon. and Tues. and Feb.–early Mar.

Zum Pfifferhüs.

$ | GERMAN | This is a true-blue winstub, with yellowed murals, glowing lighting, and great local wines available by the glass. The cooking is pure Alsace, with German-scale portions of choucroute, ham hock, and fruit tarts. Book ahead. | 14 Grand-Rue | 68150 | 03–89–73–62–28 | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Thurs. Nov.–July, Wed., mid-Feb.–mid-Mar., and 1st 2 wks in July.

WHERE TO STAY IN RIBEAUVILLÉ

Hôtel de la Tour.

$ | In the center of Ribeauvillé and across from the Tour des Bouchers, this erstwhile family winery, with an ornate Renaissance fountain outside its front door, is a good choice for experiencing the atmospheric town by night. Rooms and amenities are modern and surprisingly spacious; those on the top floor have exposed timbers and wonderful views of ramshackle rooftops. As you would expect, given the history of the hotel, the owners can give expert advice when it comes to wine tours. Pros: family run; good amenities, including a sauna and Jacuzzi. Cons: no air-conditioning; possible language-barrier problems. | 1 rue de la Mairie | 68150 | 03–89–73–72–73 | www.hotel-la-tour.com | 31 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, gym, parking (free) | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Jan.–mid-Mar.

Hôtel des Berges.

$$$$ | If you want to enjoy the pleasant surroundings of the Auberge, with its terraced lawns and romantic trees beside the River Ill, opt for an overnight in one of the guest rooms in the new Hôtel des Berges, set behind L’Auberge de l’Ill restaurant and designed to evoke an Alsatian tobacco barn, replete with Havanese woods, rooms named after famous cigars, and a lulling and lovely country-luxe decor. For that quintessentially romantic moment, opt for breakfast afloat in a cane-trunk boat, complete with wicker basket, white tablecloth, and personal punter. Special “youth” rates are available to those under 35. Pros: romantic and opulent; close to excellent restaurant. Cons: pricey. | 2 rue de Collonges-au Mont d’Or, 10 km (6 mi) east of Ribeauvillé, | 68970 | Illhaeusern | 03–89–71–87–87 | www.hotel-des-berges.fr | 13 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Mon. and Tues. and Feb.

Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre.

$$–$$$ | On the edge of Ribeauvillé’s old quarter, this gracious half-timber, restored 18th-century inn offers a warm regional welcome with a touch of flair. It has exposed timbers in pastel tones, sumptuous fabrics, and slick bathrooms upstairs, as well as a fire crackling downstairs on your way to the generous breakfast. The two “Maries,” owners for more than two decades, bring an unpretentious, sisterly vibe to this intimate address where, relaxing with a glass beside the hearth and gentle conversation more than compensates for the absence of a dining room. Pros: tasteful and cozy; central location; gracious hosts. Cons: stuffy in summer (no air-conditioning). | 11 rue du Château | 68150 | 03–89–73–70–31 | www.ribeaupierre.com | 10 rooms | In-room: no a/c, no TV. In-hotel: bar, parking (paid) | AE, MC, V | Closed Jan. and Feb. | BP.

RIQUEWIHR

5 km (3 mi) south of Ribeauvillé.

With its dormer windows fit for a Rapunzel, hidden cul-de-sacs home to Rumpelstiltskins, and unique once-upon-a-timeliness, Riquewihr is the showpiece of the Wine Route and a living museum of the quaint architecture of old Alsace. Its steep main street, ramparts, and winding back alleys have scarcely changed since the 16th century, and could easily serve as a film set. Merchants cater to the sizable influx of tourists with a plethora of kitschy souvenir shops; bypass them to peep into courtyards with massive wine presses, to study the woodwork and ornately decorated houses, to stand in the narrow old courtyard that was once the Jewish quarter, or to climb up a narrow wooden stair to the ramparts. You would also do well to settle into a winstub to sample some of Riquewihr’s famous wines. Just strolling at will down the heavenly romantic streets will reward your eye with bright blue, half-timber houses, storybook gables, and storks’-nest towers. The facades of certain houses dating from the late Gothic period take pride of place, including the Maison Kiener (1574), the Maison Priess (1686), and the Maison Liebrich (1535), but the Tower of Thieves and the Postal Museum, ensconced in the château of the duke of Württemberg, are also fascinating.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN RIQUEWIHR

Au Tire-Bouchon.

$–$$ | GERMAN | “The Corkscrew,” with its sky-blue walls and red-and-white checkered tablecloths, is the best winstub in town to feast on Alsatian varieties of choucroute garni, including some rare delights like the verte (“green,” flavored with parsley) version and the blowout “Choucroute Royale.” The famous “Choucroute Royale” is garnished with seven different kinds of meats and served with a half bottle of mulled champagne plopped in the center of a mound of sauerkraut. The contents of the bottle are then poured by the waitress, with great flourish, over the entire dish. There are also some adventurous innovations on the menu, which changes seasonally, and a fine selection of Muscats and in-house fruit brandies. With communal tables and friendly service, this is heartily recommended for that guaranteed touch of authenticity. If booked up, try the nearby Auberge du Schoenebourg. | 29 rue du Général-de-Gaulle | 68340 | 03–89–47–91–61 | www.riquewihr-zimmer.com | AE, MC, V | Jan.–Mar., closed Mon., no dinner Sun. or Wed.

Hôtel de la Couronne.

$–$$ | Like an illustration out of the Brothers Grimm, this hotel is set in a 16th-century house with central tower and side wings. Its steep mansard roof, country shutters, and rusticated stone trim beautifully blend into the heart of medieval Riquewihr—the only modern note will be your car (allowed to drive to the hotel even though the town center is pedestrianized). Inside, several rooms have grand timber beams and folkloric wall stencils, making this a truly charming base for touring a truly charming town. Pros: good location; outdoor dining in summer, old-world charm. Cons: no elevator; service is inconsistent. | 5 rue de la Couronne | 68340 | 03–89–49–03–03 | www.hoteldelacouronne.com | 41 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V.

Sarment d’Or.

¢–$ | This cozy little family-run hotel by the city walls, near the Dolder belfry, blends irreproachable modern comforts with bare-stone walls and dark-timber ceilings. Rooms are pleasant, bright, and clean, and despite Riquewihr’s being car-free, you can drive your vehicle up to the door for a luggage drop-off. The top-floor duplex suite is an exceptional value. The restaurant downstairs offers firelight romance and delicious cuisine—foie gras, frogs’ legs in garlic cream, and breast of duck in pinot noir; it’s closed Monday and does not serve dinner Sunday or lunch Tuesday. Pros: pleasant rooms; good food. Cons: no elevator; no air-conditioning. | 4 rue du Cerf | 68340 | 03–89–86–02–86 | www.riquewihr-sarment-dor.com | 9 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, parking (paid) | MC, V | Closed Jan.–mid-Feb. and 1st wk in July | MAP.

COLMAR

13 km (8 mi) southeast of Riquewihr via D3/D10, 71 km (44 mi) southwest of Strasbourg.

Forget that much of Colmar’s architecture is modern (because of the destruction wrought by World Wars I and II): its Vieille Ville (Old Town) heart—an atmospheric maze of narrow streets lined with candy-color, half-timber Renaissance houses hanging over cobblestone lanes in a disarmingly ramshackle way—out-charms Strasbourg.

Getting Here and Around

The three daily direct TGV high-speed return trips from Paris, Gare de l’Est, to Colmar (€72.10), taking 2 hours 50 minutes each way, are perfectly complemented by 10 semi-direct, hourly TGV/TER combos from the same station. They all require a change at either Strasbourg or Mulhouse but barely 10 minutes is added to the trip. The last of the five Sélestat-bound (€4.20) trains/buses from Colmar to stop at Ribeauvillé (€2.80) is at 1:06. The LK Groupe (www.l-k.fr) has regular bus services from the Gare SNCF to towns throughout the region, including Ribeauvillé (seven daily). Colmar’s train station on Rue de la Gare is in the far southwestern corner of town; from here, walk 15 minutes down Avenue de la République for the tourist office, or take municipal TRACE buses (buy ticket from driver).

For Colmar and its enchanting environs, take a highly recommended van tour with Les Circuits d’Alsace (8 pl. de la Gare | 68000 | 03–89–41–90–88 | www.alsace-travel.com)—castles, villages, and vineyards make for an exhilarating itinerary.

Visitor Information

Colmar Tourist Office.

| 4 rue Unterlinden | 68000 | 03–89–20–68–92 | www.ot-colmar.fr.

EXPLORING COLMAR

To find Colmar at its most charming, wander along the calm canals that wind through La Petite Venise (Little Venice), an area of bright Alsatian houses with colorful shutters and window boxes that’s south of the center of town. Here, amid weeping willow trees that shed their tears into the eddies of the Lauch River and half-timber houses gaily bedecked with geraniums and carnations, you have the sense of being in a tiny village. Elsewhere, the Vieille Ville streets fan out from the beefy towered church of St-Martin. Each shop-lined backstreet winds its way to the 15th-century customs house, the Ancienne Douane, and the square and canals that surround it.

The Maison Pfister (11 rue Mercière | 68000), built in 1537, is the most striking of Colmar’s many old dwellings. Note its decorative frescoes and medallions, carved balcony, and ground-floor arcades.

Up the street from the Ancienne Douane on the Grand Rue, the Maison aux Arcades (Arcades House) was built in 1609 in High Renaissance style with a series of arched porches (arcades) anchored by two octagonal towers.

The cultural highlight of Colmar is the Musée d’Unterlinden, once a medieval Dominican convent and hotbed of Rhenish mysticism, and now an important museum. Its star attraction is one of the greatest altarpieces of the 16th century, the Retable Issenheim (1512–16), by Matthias Grünewald, majestically displayed in the convent’s Gothic chapel. Originally painted for the convent at Issenheim, 22 km (14 mi) south of Colmar, the world-famous, multipanel altarpiece is either the last gasp of medievalism or a breathtaking preview of modernism and all its neuroses. Framed with two-sided wings which unfold to reveal the Crucifixion and Incarnation, the multipaneled masterpiece includes depictions of the Annunciation, the Resurrection, and scenes from the life of St. Anthony, including a Temptation rioting with monsters that even outdo those of Hieronymous Bosch. Grünewald’s altarpiece, replete with its raw realism (note the chamber pots, boil-covered bellies, and dirty linen), was believed to have miraculous healing powers over ergotism, a widespread disease in the Middle Ages. Produced by the ingestion of fungus-ridden grains, the malady caused its victims—many of whom were being nursed at the Issenheim convent—to experience delusional, nearly hallucinogenic, fantasies. Other museum treasures can be found exhibited around the enchanting 13th-century cloister, including arms and armor. Upstairs are fine regional furnishings and a collection of Rhine Valley paintings from the Renaissance, including Martin Schongauer’s opulent 1470 altarpiece painted for Jean d’Orlier. | 1 rue Unterlinden | 68000 | 03–89–20–15–50 | www.musee-unterlinden.com | €7 | May–Oct., daily 9–6; Nov.–Apr., Wed.–Mon. 9–noon and 2–5.

The Église des Dominicains (Dominican Church) houses the Flemish-influenced Madonna of the Rosebush (1473), by Martin Schongauer (1445–91), the most celebrated painting by the noted 15th-century German artist. This work, stolen from St-Martin’s in 1972 and later recovered and hung here, has almost certainly been reduced in size from its original state but retains enormous impact. The grace and intensity of the Virgin match that of the Christ Child; yet her slender fingers dent the child’s soft flesh (and his fingers entwine her curls) with immediate intimacy. Schongauer’s text for her crown is: ME CARPES GENITO TUO O SANTISSIMA VIRGO (“Choose me also for your child, O holiest Virgin”). | Pl. des Dominicains | 68000 | 03–89–24–46–57 | €1.50 | Mid-Mar.–Dec., daily 10–1 and 3–6.

The Musée Bartholdi (Bartholdi Museum) is the birthplace of Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi (1834–1904), the local sculptor who designed the Statue of Liberty. Exhibits of Bartholdi’s works claim the ground floor; a reconstruction of the artist’s Paris apartments and furniture are upstairs; and, in adjoining rooms, the creation of Lady Liberty is explored. | 30 rue des Marchands | 68000 | 03–89–41–90–60 | www.musee-bartholdi.com | €4.50 | Dec. and Jan., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.

WHERE TO EAT IN COLMAR

Au Koïfhus.

$ | FRENCH | Not to be confused with the shabby little Koïfhus winstub on Rue des Marchands, this popular landmark (the name means “customs-house”) serves huge portions of regional standards, plus changing specialties: roast quail and foie gras on salad, game stews with spaetzle (tiny dumplings), and freshwater fish. Appreciative tourists and canny locals contribute to the lively atmosphere. If you can cut a swath through this enthusiastic horde, choose between the big, open dining room, glowing with wood and warm fabric, and a shaded table on the broad, lovely square. | 2 pl. de l’Ancienne-Douane | 68000 | 03–89–23–04–90 | MC, V.

Chez Hansi.

$$ | FRENCH | Named after the Rockwell-like illustrator whose beclogged folk children adorn most of the souvenirs of Alsace, this hyper-traditional beamed tavern in the Vieille Ville serves excellent down-home classics such as quiche Lorraine, choucroute, and pot-au-feu, prepared and served with a sophisticated touch, despite the friendly waitresses’ folksy dirndls. Prices are surprisingly reasonable, given the quality of the food and the eatery’s location in a heavily touristed part of town, though the wine list is limited to the Bestheim selection. | 23 rue des Marchands | 68000 | 03–89–41–37–84 | MC, V | Closed Wed. and Thurs., and Jan.

Le Rendez-vous de Chasse.

$$$$ | FRENCH | Brimming with confidence gained at the hallowed halls of Auberge de L’Ill, the stellar cuisine of Mickaela Peters is as refined, elegant, and chic as the decor of this opulent Renaissance mansion. It’s well worth the wrangle to secure a table here, where some of the region’s finest dishes are prepared with aplomb, and a memorable three courses will set you back a paltry €48. An extensive cellar accents perfectly dishes like foie gras and veal sweetbread terrine, and langoustine ravioli with asparagus and morel fricassee. | 7 pl. de la Gare | 68000 | 03–89–41–10–10 | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V.

WHERE TO STAY IN COLMAR

Fodor’s Choice | Le Maréchal.

$$–$$$ | A maze of narrow, creaky corridors connects the series of Renaissance houses that make up this romantic riverside inn. Built in 1565 in the fortified walls that encircle the Vieille Ville, the Maréchal has rooms that are small but lavished with extravagant detail, from glossy rafters to rich brocades to four-poster beds (and even Jacuzzis)—ask for the Wagner or Bach rooms. A vivid color scheme—scarlet, sapphire, candy pink—adds to the Vermeer atmosphere. This is not a high-tech luxury hotel: it’s an endearing, quirky, lovely old place hanging over a Petite Venise canal. The hotel’s gastronomic restaurant, À l’Échevin, offers such dishes as terrine of rouget, leeks, truffles, and pigeon breast and foie gras crisped in pastry. Dine in salons or on the terrace perched over the river. Pros: pretty location; good food; amiable staff. Cons: some rooms are unimpressive; parking is difficult to find. | 4 pl. des Six-Montagnes-Noires | 68000 | 03–89–41–60–32 | www.hotel-le-marechal.com | 30 rooms | In-room: a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | MAP.

Rapp.

$–$$ | In the Vieille Ville, just off the Champ de Mars, this solid, modern hotel has business-class comforts, a professional and welcoming staff, and a good German-scale breakfast. There’s even an extensive indoor pool complex, including sauna, steam bath, and workout equipment—all included in the low price. All rooms have been recently and tastefully “refreshed.” The restaurant serves dependable regional fare (including vegetarian dishes), is closed Friday, and does not serve dinner Thursday or lunch Saturday. Pros: good value; modern amenities; helpful staff. Cons: difficult to find. | 1–3–5 rue Weinemer | 68000 | 03–89–41–62–10 | www.rapp-hotel.com | 38 rooms | In-room: a/c, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, gym | AE, DC, MC, V.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS IN COLMAR

A guide to bicycling in the Lorraine is available from the Comité Départemental de Cyclisme. For a list of signposted trails in the Vosges foothills, contact the Sélestat Tourist Office. Loisirs Accueil Haut-Rin (1 rue Schlumberger | 68000 | Colmar | 03–89–20–10–62 | www.tourisme-alsace.com) is a helpful association for bicyclists in the Colmar area.

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EATING AND DRINKING WELL IN ALSACE-LORRAINE

Bountiful is the watchword of this gastronomic region where lush vineyards flourish, rustic winstubs serve heaping platters of choucroute garnie, and restaurants with top chefs boast more Michelin stars than anywhere else in France.

A visit to the proud and bountiful region of Alsace promises sensory overload: gorgeous vistas, antique walled towns, satisfying meals—from farm-style to richly gastronomic—and, most notably, an array of superb wines to discover. The predominantly white varietals, such as Riesling and Pinot Gris, complement the region’s rich and varied traditional cooking. It’s not for nouvelle-style cooking or fusion dishes that you come to Alsace: no, tradition is king here, and copious is an understatement. When it comes to rustic regional fare, you have hearty stews, custardy quiches, sauerkraut platters, and the thin-crusted onion tarts known as Flammekeuche. Also to be savored are some of the best restaurants in France, including the noble, romantic Auberge de L’Ill in Illhausern, where a salmon mousse with a Riesling reduction sauce might catch your fancy.

FOLLOW THE WINES

Alsace is one of France’s most important but least-known wine-producing regions, where vintners designate wines by grape varietals not by town or château. Look for distinctive whites, like full-bodied pinot gris; delicately fruity Sylvaner; citrus-y Riesling; and spicy Gewürztraminer. In reds, pinot noir stands alone. Top producers include: Hugel et Fils, Riquewihr; F. E. Trimbach, Ribeauvillé; and Léon Beyer, Eguisheim.

KOUGELHOPH

This tall, fluted, crown-shape cake, dusted with sugar and studded with raisins and almonds, beckons invitingly from every pastry-shop window in the region. You won’t resist.

The delicately sweet, yeast-based dough is kneaded and proofed, baked in a bundt-style mold, and traditionally served, sometimes sprinkled with kirsch, at Sunday breakfast.

Locals say it’s even better on the second day, when it achieves a perfect, slightly dry texture.

CHOUCROUTE GARNIE

Daunting in its copious generosity, a heaping platter of choucroute garnie, laden with fermented sauerkraut, smoked bacon, ham, pork shoulder, sausages and potatoes, is the signature dish of the region.

The best places serving it, usually bistrolike winstubs such as the atmospheric Wistub Zum Pfifferhus in Ribeauvillé (03–89–73–62–28), are worth a detour.

You’ve never had sauerkraut like this, tender and delicate, dotted with juniper berries and often cooked with a splash of Riesling or Sylvaner white wine. Savor your choucroute with the region’s own sweet white mustard.

FOIE GRAS

The production sure ain’t pretty, but the product is sublime—satiny, opulent goose foie gras. Many gastronomes believe that Alsace produces the best in the world.

The meltingly tender fattened livers of plump Alsatian geese are prepared in a number of luscious ways: wrapped in a towel and gently poached—the classic à la torchon method; pan-fried and served on a slice of toasted gingerbread; wrapped in puff pastry and baked; then pressed into terrines and pâtés.

BAECKEOFFE

You can’t get much heartier or homier than this baked casserole of pork, lamb, and beef marinated in white wine and slow-cooked in a terra-cotta pot with potatoes, onions, garlic, and herbs.

The name—pronounced “bake-eh oaf-eh”—means “baker’s oven” in the Germanic Alsatian dialect.

It was so named because this was a dish traditionally assembled at home, then carried to the local baker to cook in his hot ovens.

It’s a soul-warming dish for a chilly evening.

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Main Table of Contents

Introducing Paris

Paris Planner

Getting Around

Exploring Paris

Where to Eat in Paris

Where to Stay in Paris

Nightlife and the Arts in Paris

Shopping in Paris

Paris in Depth

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented

Updated by Jennifer Ditsler-Ladonne, Linda Hervieux, Rosa Jackson, Lisa Pasold, Nicole Pritchard, and Heather Stimmler-Hall

If there’s a problem with a trip to Paris, it’s the embarrassment of riches that faces you. No matter which aspect of Paris you choose—touristy, historic, fashion-conscious, pretentious-bourgeois, thrifty, or the legendary bohemian arty Paris of undying attraction—one thing is certain: you will carve out your own Paris, one that is vivid, exciting, ultimately unforgettable.

Wherever you head, your itinerary will prove to be a voyage of discovery. But choosing the Paris of your dreams is a bit like choosing a perfume or cologne. Do you want something young and dashing, or elegant and worldly? How about sporty, or perhaps strictly glamorous? No matter: they are all here—perfumes, famous museums, legendary churches, or romantic cafés. Whether you spend three days or three months in this city, it will always have something new to offer you, which may explain why the most assiduous explorers of Paris are the Parisians themselves.

Veterans know that Paris is a city of vast, noble perspectives and intimate, ramshackle streets, of formal espaces vertes (green open spaces) and quiet squares. This combination of the pompous and the private is one of the secrets of its perennial pull. Another is its size: Paris is relatively small as capitals go, with distances between many of its major sights and museums invariably walkable.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Masterpiece Theater: There will always be something new to see at the Louvre—after all, the Mona Lisa is just one of 800,000 treasures.

Feasting at Le Grand Véfour: Back when Napoléon dined here, this was the most beautiful restaurant in Paris. Guess what? It still is.

Quasimodo’s Notre Dame: Get to know the stone gargoyles high atop this playground of Victor Hugo’s hunchback, then savor the splendor inside this great Gothic cathedral.

Café Society: Whether you prefer a posh perch at Les Deux Magots or just the corner café du coin, be sure to Hemingway an afternoon away over two café filtrés.

Spend Time on the Seine: Take a leisurely stroll along the Rive Droite and the Rive Gauche, making sure to carve out time to visit the oldest part of Paris—Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis.

GETTING ORIENTED

Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements (or neighborhoods) spiraling out from the center of the city. The numbers reveal the neighborhood’s location, and its age: the 1st arrondissement at the city’s heart being the oldest. The arrondissements in central Paris—the 1st to 8th—are the most-visited.

If you want to figure out what arrondissement something is in, check the zip code. The first three digits are always 750 for Paris, and the last two identify the arrondissement.

It’s worth picking up a copy of Paris Pratique, the essential map guide, available at bookstores and souvenir shops.

From Notre-Dame to the Place de la Concorde. Spend time wandering around the lovely Ile-de-la-Cité, home of Notre-Dame, and relaxing in the Tuileries before and after tackling the Louvre.

From the Tour Eiffel to the Arc de Triomphe. You won’t be able to cover this whole area in one day, but plan lots of time for what could be called “monumental” Paris. In addition to the Eiffel Tower, the Champs Élysée, and the Arc de Triomphe, there are several excellent museums worth planning your days around.

The Faubourg St-Honoré. Chic spots in cities come and go, but the Faubourg’s always had it and probably always will, with its well-established shops and cafés.

The Grands Boulevards. Use the Opéra Garnier as your orientation landmark and set out to do some power shopping. There are some intriguing small museums in the neighborhood, too, if you want a dose of culture.

The Marais, the Bastille, and the Canal St Martin. The Marais is Paris’s most popular lazy-Sunday-afternoon neighborhood, where you can while away the day at the Place des Vosges, shop to your heart’s content. Or hang with the hipsters in the Bastille or along the Canal St. Martin.

Ile St-Louis and the Quartier Latin. Ile St-Louis is tiny, and one of the most romantic spots in Paris. Leave yourself lots of time to wander the Latin Quarter, a ‘hood known for its vibrant student life.

From Orsay to St-Germain-des-Pres. Fabulous cafés and two of the city’s most fabulous museums are found here, on the Left Bank, but make sure you also leave yourself time to wander the Jardins du Luxembourg.

Montmartre. Like a small village inside a big city, charming Montmartre feels distinctly separate from the rest of Paris.

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The Big Picture | Rules of the Rue: Etiquette | Getting Into Paris from the Airport | When to Go | Tips on Dining | Saving Time and Money | Hours | Visitor Information

THE BIG PICTURE

As world capitals go, Paris is surprisingly compact. The city is divided in two by the River Seine, with two islands (Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis) in the middle. Each bank of the Seine has its own personality; the Rive Droite (Right Bank), with its spacious boulevards and formal buildings, generally has a more genteel, dignified feel than the carefree and chic Rive Gauche (Left Bank), to the south. The east–west axis from Châtelet to the Arc de Triomphe, via the Rue de Rivoli and the Champs-Élysées, is the Right Bank’s principal thoroughfare for sightseeing and shopping

RULES OF THE RUE: ETIQUETTE

Simply put, the French like to look at people, so get used to being stared at. Flirting is as natural here (at all ages) as breathing. The French don’t smile at strangers, and doing so can be taken as an invitation for something more. Are the French rude? In a word: Non. In France, politesse is highly prized, as well as good manners. For example, failing to say bonjour (hello) when entering a shop—and au revoir (good-bye) on the way out—is considered rude.

GETTING INTO PARIS FROM THE AIRPORT

Paris is served by two international airports: Charles de Gaulle (also called Roissy) (3950* in English; outside of France, 0033–1–70–36–39–50 | www.adp.fr) and Orly (3950*; outside of France, 0033–1–70–36–39–50 | www.adp.fr).

Charles de Gaulle

The RER-B, the suburban commuter train, beneath Terminals 2 and 3, has trains to central Paris every 20 minutes; the fare is €8.50, and takes about 45 minutes. Note that you have to carry your luggage up from and down to the platform. Remember to hold onto your ticket because you’ll need it to exit.

Coaches operated by Air France (you need not have flown with the airline) (08–92–35–08–20 recorded information in English | www.cars-airfrance.com) run every 20 minutes between Roissy and western Paris (Porte Maillot and the Arc de Triomphe, or Gare de Lyon and Gare Montparnasse). The fare is €15 to €19, and it takes about 60 minutes. The Roissybus, operated by the RATP (3246 [€0.34 per min] | www.ratp.com), runs directly between Roissy and Rue Scribe by the Opéra every 15 minutes and costs €8.60. Tickets for both bus lines can be purchased in the terminals or from the driver.

Taxis are readily available; the fare will be around €50–€60, depending on traffic.

Orly

There are several options to get to Paris from Orly Airport. Take the free OrlyVal shuttle train, departing every 7 minutes, to the Antony station; then take the RER-B line into Paris. The fare is €9.85 and it takes about 25 minutes. Or, take the airport shuttle bus to the RER-C line station; trains leave every 15 minutes. The fare is €6.20 total (bus and train have separate tickets).

Air France buses run every 12 minutes between Orly and Montparnasse station, Les Invalides and L’Etoile/Arc de Triomphe. The fare is €11.50, and the trip can take from 30 minutes to an hour, depending on traffic. RATP also runs the Orlybus between the Denfert-Rochereau métro station and Orly every 15 minutes, and the trip costs €6.40.

WHEN TO GO

The City of Light is magical all year round, but it’s particularly gorgeous in June, when the long days (the sun doesn’t set until 10 PM) stretch sightseeing hours and make it ideal to linger in the cafés practicing the city’s favorite pastime—people-watching.

Winter can be dark and chilly, but it’s also the best time to find cheap airfares and hotel deals. April in Paris, despite what the song says, is often rainy. Summer is the most popular (and expensive) season, and at the height of it, in July, Paris can feel like a city under siege, bursting at the seams as crowds descend en masse.

Keep in mind that, like some other European cities, Paris somewhat shuts down in August—some restaurants are closed for the entire month, for example—though there are still plenty of fun things to do, namely, free open-air movies and concerts, and the popular Paris Plage, the “beach” on the right bank of the Seine.

September is gorgeous, with temperate weather, saner airfares, and cultural events timed for the rentrée (or return), signifying the end of summer vacation.

TIPS ON DINING

Dining and Lodging Price Categories (In Euros)

Restaurants

Hotels

¢

under €13

under €80

$

€13–€17

€81–€120

$$

€18–€24

€121–€175

$$$

€25–€32

€176–€250

$$$$

over €32

over €250

Restaurant prices are for a main course at dinner, including tax (5.5%) and service; note that if a restaurant offers only prix-fixe (set-price) meals, it has been given the price category that reflects the full prix-fixe price. Hotel prices are for a standard double room in high season, including tax (19.6%) and service charge.

Generally, restaurants are open from noon to about 2:30 and from 7:30 or 8 to 10 or 10:30. It’s best to make reservations, particularly in summer, although the reviews only state when reservations are absolutely essential.

Brasseries often have nonstop service; some are open 24 hours. Assume a restaurant is open every day, unless otherwise indicated. Surprisingly, many prestigious restaurants close on weekends and sometimes Monday. July and August are the most common months for annual closings, although Paris in August is no longer the wasteland it once was.

SAVING TIME AND MONEY

Paris is one of the world’s most visited cities, so it pays to be prepared. Buy tickets online when you can. Investigate alternate entrances at popular sites and check when rates are reduced. Also, most major museums are free the first Sunday of each month. A Paris Museum Pass can save you money and allows you to bypass the lines. It’s sold at the destinations it covers and at airports, major métro stations, and the tourism office in the Carrousel du Louvre (2-, 4-, or 6-day passes are €32, €48, and €64, respectively | www.parismuseumpass.com). Stick to the omnipresent ATMs for the best exchange rates.

HOURS

Paris is by no means a 24/7 city, so planning your days beforehand can save you aggravation. Museums are closed one day a week, usually Tuesday, and most stay open late at least one night each week. Store hours are generally from 10 AM to 7:30 PM, though smaller shops may not open until 11 AM, only to close for several hours during the afternoon. Most retailers are barred by law from doing business on Sunday, but exceptions include the shops along the Champs-Élysées, the Carrousel du Louvre, and around the Marais, where most boutiques open at 2 PM.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Paris is without question best explored on foot and, thanks to Baron Haussmann’s mid-19th-century redesign, the City of Light is a compact wonder of wide boulevards, gracious parks, and leafy squares. Happily and conveniently, there are more than five branches of the Paris tourist office located at key points in the capital:

Espace du Tourisme d’Ile-de-France (Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli | 75001 | 08–92–68–30–00 in English [€0.34 per min] | www.pidf.com | Station: Palais-Royal, Musée du Louvre).

Office du Tourisme de la Ville de Paris Pyramides (25 rue des Pyramides | 75001 | 08–92–68–30–00 [€0.34 per min] | Station: Pyramides).

Office du Tourisme de la Ville de Paris Gare du Lyon (Arrivals, 20 bd. Diderot | 75012 | Station: Gare du Lyon).

Office du Tourisme de la Ville de Paris Gare du Nord (18 rue de Dunkerque | 75010 | Station: Gare du Nord).

Office du Tourisme de la Ville de Paris Opéra–Grands Magasins (11 rue Scribe | 75009 | Station: Opéra).

Office du Tourisme de la Ville de Paris Tour Eiffel (Between east and north legs of Eiffel Tower | 75007 | Station: Champs de Mars, Tour Eiffel).

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Bus Travel | Car Travel | Métro Travel | Taxi Travel | Train Travel | Bus Tours

BUS TRAVEL

The Paris bus system (54 quai de la Rapée, | Paris | 75012 | 3246 [€0.34 per min] | www.ratp.com) is user-friendly and a great way to see the city.

With dedicated lanes throughout the city allowing buses and taxis to whiz past traffic jams, taking the bus can be a pleasant way to get around. Buses are marked with the route number and destination in front and with major stopping places along the sides. The brown bus shelters contain timetables, route maps and electronic boards tell you when the next bus will arrive. Maps are also found on each bus. To get off, press one of the red buttons mounted on the silver poles that run the length of the bus and the arrêt demandé (stop requested) light directly above the driver will light up. Use the rear door to exit (some require you to push a silver button to open the door).

You can use your métro ticket on buses; if you have individual tickets (as opposed to weekly or monthly tickets), be prepared to punch your ticket in the gray machines on board the bus.

The best bet is to buy a carnet of 10 tickets for €11.60 at any métro station, or you can buy a single ticket on board for €1.60 (though the drivers may gripe about selling you one, so have exact change ready).

CAR TRAVEL

Driving is not recommended within Paris. Parisian drivers are aggressive behind the wheel and it’s often very difficult to park. Should you be driving into the city from elsewhere in Ile de France, the major ring road encircling the city is called the périférique, with the périférique intérieur going counterclockwise around the city, and the périférique extérieur, or the outside ring, going clockwise. Five lanes wide, the périférique is a highway from which portes (gates) connect Paris to the major highways of France. The highway names function on the same principle as the métro, with the final destination used as the route “name.”

MÉTRO TRAVEL

The métro is by far the quickest and most efficient way to get around and cost €1.60 each; a carnet (10 tickets for €11,60) is a better value. Trains run from 5:30 AM until 1 AM and 2 AM on Friday and Saturday (and be forewarned—this means the famous “last métro” can pass your station anytime after 12:30 AM on weekdays).

Stations are signaled either by a large yellow M within a circle or by their distinctive curly green Art Nouveau railings and archway entrances bearing the subway’s full title (Métropolitain).

It’s essential to know the name of the last station on the line you take, as this name appears on all signs. You can make as many connections as you wish on one ticket.

Keep your ticket during your journey; you’ll need it to leave the RER system and to avoid being fined, as inspectors appear regularly.

In general, the métro is safe, although try to avoid the larger, mazelike stations at Châtelet-Les Halles and République if you’re alone late at night.

Parisian pickpockets are famously discreet, so be aware of your surroundings.

TAXI TRAVEL

On weekend nights after 11 PM, and during the morning rush, it’s nearly impossible to find a taxi—you’re best off asking hotel or restaurant staff to call you one, but, be forewarned: you’ll have to pay for them to come get you and, depending on where they are, the fare can quickly add up.

If you want to hail a cab on your own, look for the taxis with their signs lighted up (their signs will be glowing white as opposed to the taxis that are already taken whose signs will be a dull orange).

There are taxi stands on almost every major street corner but again, expect a wait if it’s a busy weekend night.

Taxi stands are marked by a square dark blue sign with a white T in the middle.

There’s a basic hire charge of €2.10 for all rides, and a minimum voyage charge of €5.60.

Expect a €1 supplement per bag after the second piece, and a €2.70 supplement for a fourth person.

Taxi G7 (01–47–39–47–39) is one of the most reliable taxi companies in Paris.

TRAIN TRAVEL

Paris has five international train stations run by the SNCF: (3635; outside of France, 00338–92–35–35–35 [€0.34 per min] | www.sncf.fr). Gare du Nord; Gare St-Lazare; Gare de l’Est; Gare de Lyon; and Gare d’Austerlitz. Trains heading outside of Ile-de-France are usually referred to as Grandes Lignes, while regional train service is referred to as trains de banlieue, or Le Transilien.

RER (3246 [€0.34 per min] | www.ratp.com) trains travel between Paris and the suburbs and are operated by the RATP.

When they go through Paris, they act as a sort of baby métro —they connect with the métro network at several points—and can be great time-savers.

Access to RER platforms is through the same type of automatic ticket barrier (if you’ve started your journey on the métro, you can use the same ticket), but you’ll need to have the same ticket handy to put through another barrier when you leave the system.

BUS TOURS

For a two-hour orientation tour by bus, the standard price is about €25. The two largest bus-tour operators are Cityrama (4 pl. des Pyramides, 1er | 75001 | 01–44–55–61–00 | www.ecityrama.com) andParis Vision (214 rue de Rivoli, 1er | 75001 | 01–42–60–30–01 | www.parisvision.com | 53 bis, quai des Grands-Augustins, 6e | 75008 | 08–92–68–41–14 | Pl. de la Madeleine, 8e | 75008) ; for a more intimate tour of the city, Cityrama also runs several minibus excursions per day with a private multilingual tour operator for about €80. Paris Vision runs nonstop two-hour tours with multilingual commentary available via individual headphones with more than 10 languages for €24, or €38 for a 2.5 hour night tour with boat ride.

Paris L’Open Tour (13 rue Auber, 9e | 75009 | 01–44–55–61–00 | www.pariscityrama.com) gives tours in a double-decker bus with an open top; commentary is available in French and English on individual headphones. Get on or off at one of the 50 pickup points indicated by the lime-green sign posts; tickets may be purchased on board and cost €29 for one day, €32 for unlimited use for two days.

Les Cars Rouges (01–53–95–39–53 | www.carsrouges.com) offer double-decker London-style buses with nine stops—a ticket for two consecutive days is available for €24.

RATP (Paris Transit Authority) also offers economical, commentary-free excursions; the Montmartrobus (€1.80) departs from métro Anvers and zips through the winding cobbled streets of Montmartre to the top of the hill for those who don’t want to brave the walk. The RATP Balabus goes from Gare du Lyon to the Grande Arche at La Défense passing by all major tourist attractions on the way for the price of one to three métro tickets. The Balabus runs from mid-April to September.

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From Notre-Dame to the Place de la Concorde | From the Eiffel Tower to the Arc de Triomphe | The Faubourg St-Honoré and Les Halles | The Grands Boulevards | The Marais and the Bastille | The Ile St-Louis and the Latin Quarter | From Orsay to St-Germain-des-Prés | Montmartre

For the first-timer there will always be several must-dos at the top of the list, but getting to know Paris will never be quite as simple as a quick look at Notre-Dame, the Louvre, and the Eiffel Tower. You’ll discover that around every corner, down every ruelle (little street) lies a resonance-in-waiting. You can stand on the Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré at the very spot where Edmond Rostand set Ragueneau’s pastry shop in Cyrano de Bergerac. You can read the letters of Madame de Sévigné in her actual hôtel particulier, or private mansion, now the Musée Carnavalet. You can hear the words of Racine resound in the ringing, hair-raising diction of the Comédie Française. You can breathe in the fumes of hubris before the extravagant onyx tomb Napoléon designed for himself. You can gaze through the gates at the school where Voltaire honed his wit, and you can add your own pink-lipstick kiss to Oscar Wilde’s bedecked grave at Père-Lachaise Cemetery.

If this is your first trip, you may want to take a guided tour of the city—a good introduction that will help you get your bearings and provide you with a general impression before you return to explore the sights that particularly interest you. To help track those down, this chapter’s exploration of Paris is divided into eight neighborhood walks. Each quartier, or neighborhood, has its own personality, which is best discovered by foot power. Ultimately, your route will be marked by your preferences, your curiosity, and your state of fatigue. You can wander for hours without getting bored—though not, perhaps, without getting lost. By the time you have seen only a few neighborhoods, drinking in the rich variety they have to offer, you should not only be culturally replete but downright exhausted—and hungry, too. Again, take your cue from Parisians and think out your next move in a sidewalk café. So you’ve heard stories of a friend who paid $8 for a coffee at a café. So what? What you’re paying for is time, and the opportunity to watch the intricate drama of Parisian street life unfold. Hemingway knew the rules; after all, he would have remained just another unknown sportswriter if the waiters in the cafés had hovered around him impatiently.

FROM NOTRE-DAME TO THE PLACE DE LA CONCORDE

In the center of Paris, nestled in the River Seine are the two celebrated islands, the Ile de la Cité and the Ile St-Louis. Of the two, it’s the Ile de la Cité that forms the historic ground zero of Paris. It was here that the earliest inhabitants of Paris, the Gaulish tribe of the Parisii, settled in about 250 BC, calling their home Lutetia, meaning “settlement surrounded by water.” Today it’s famed for the great, brooding cathedral of Notre-Dame, the haunted Conciergerie, and the dazzling Sainte-Chapelle. If Notre-Dame represents Church, another major attraction of this walk—the Louvre—symbolizes State. A succession of French rulers was responsible for filling this immense structure with the world’s greatest paintings and works of art. It’s the largest museum in the world, as well as one of the easiest to get lost in. Beyond the Louvre lie the graceful Tuileries Gardens, the grand Place de la Concorde—the very hub of the city—and the Belle Époque splendor of the Grand Palais and the Pont Alexandre III. All in all, this area comprises some of the most historic and beautiful sights to see in Paris.

TOP ATTRACTIONS FROM NOTRE-DAME TO THE PLACE DE LA CONCORDE

Grand Palais.

With its curved-glass roof and gorgeous restored Belle Époque ornamentation, you can’t miss the Grand Palais whether you’re approaching from the Seine or the Champs-Élysées. It forms a voluptuous duo with the Petit Palais across Avenue Winston-Churchill: both stone buildings, adorned with mosaics and sculpted friezes, were built for the 1900 World’s Fair, and, like the Tour Eiffel, were not supposed to be permanent. The art shows staged here are often the hottest ticket in town. Previous popular shows include “Marie Antoinette” and “Picasso and the Masters.” To skip the long lines, it pays to book an advance ticket online, which will cost you an extra euro. | Av. Winston-Churchill, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–44–13–17–17 | www.grandpalais.fr, www.rmn.fr for reservations | €12 | Grand Palais: Wed. and Fri.–Mon. 10–10, Thurs. 10–8. Petit Palais: Tues.–Sun. 10–6 | Station: Champs-Élysées–Clemenceau.

Jardin des Tuileries (Tuileries Gardens).

The Tuileries was once the place to see and be seen in Paris. This most French of French gardens, with verdant lawns, manicured rows of trees, and gravel paths, was designed by André Le Nôtre for Louis XIV. After the king moved his court to Versailles, in 1682, the gardens became a popular place for stylish Parisians to stroll. The name is derived from the factories once dotting this area that produced tuiles, or roof tiles, fired in kilns called tuileries. Monet and Renoir captured the Tuileries with paint and brush, and it’s no wonder the Impressionists loved it—the gray, austere light of Paris’s famously overcast days make the green trees appear even greener. Today, the Tuileries is one of the best places to take kids itching to run around. There’s a carousel (€2) and in summer, an amusement park. | Bordered by Quai des Tuileries, Pl. de la Concorde, Rue de Rivoli, and the Louvre, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | Station: Tuileries.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée du Louvre.

Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, Veronese’s Marriage at Cana, Giorgione’s Concert Champêtre, Vermeer’s Lacemaker, Delacroix’s Liberty Guiding the People, Whistler’s Mother…you get the picture. This is not only the greatest museum of art in the world, it’s also France’s largest palace. After two decades of renovations, happily, the Louvre is a coherent, unified structure and search parties no longer need to be sent in to bring you out. Don’t try to see it all at once; try, instead, to make repeat visits. Begun by Philippe-Auguste in the 13th century as a fortress, it was not until the reign of pleasure-loving François I, 300 years later, that the Louvre of today gradually began to take shape. Through the years Henri IV (1589–1610), Louis XIII (1610–43), Louis XIV (1643–1715), Napoléon I (1804–14), and Napoléon III (1852–70) all contributed to its construction.

The number one attraction is the “Most Famous Painting in the World”: Leonardo da Vinci’s enigmatic Mona Lisa (La Joconde, to the French), painted in 1503–06 and now the cynosure of all eyes in the museum’s Salle des États. The portrait of the wife of one Francesco del Giocondo, a 15th-century Florentine millionaire, Leonardo’s masterpiece is now believed to have been painted for her husband as a memorial after the lady’s death (while some historians maintain that her black garb is in honor of her baby who died in 1502). If so, however, this may be at odds with the famous smile, which critics point to as a prime example of Leonardo’s famous wit: the family name Giocondo is derived from the Latin word for “jocundity,” or humor. More great High Renaissance masterpieces line nearby walls, including Leonardo’s Virgin and St. Anne and Raphael’s La Belle Jardinière. The Salle des États also contains one of the largest pictures in the Louvre: the Feast at Cana, by Pablo Veronese (1528–88), a sumptuous painting reminiscent of the Venetian painter’s Christ in the House of Levi (which is in Venice). These paintings, filled with partygoers, prompted a formal summons from the pope, asking Veronese to explain in person why he had scandalously included the chaos of drunken revelers, dwarves, and animals in what was purportedly a holy scene.

Some other highlights of the painting collection are Jan van Eyck’s magnificent The Madonna and Chancellor Rolin, painted in the early 15th century; The Lacemaker, by Jan Vermeer (1632–75); The Embarkation for Cythera, by Antoine Watteau (1684–1721); The Oath of the Horatii, by Jacques-Louis David (1748–1825); The Raft of the Medusa, by Théodore Géricault (1791–1824); and La Grande Odalisque, by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres (1780–1867). But the Louvre is packed with other legendary collections, which are divided into eight curatorial departments: Near Eastern Antiquities; Egyptian Antiquities; Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Antiquities; Islamic Art; Sculptures; Decorative Arts; Paintings; and Prints and Drawings.

As for famed sculpture, atop the marble Escalier Daru perches the Nike, or Winged Victory of Samothrace, which seems poised for flight over the stairs (remember Audrey Hepburn’s take in Funny Face?). Other hightlights include Michelangelo’s two Slaves, intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II. These can be admired in the Denon Wing, where a medieval and Renaissance sculpture section is housed partly in the former imperial stables. Perhaps the most photogenic is the legendary Venus de Milo, housed in Salle (Room) 12 of the Richelieu Wing, which once housed the Ministry of Finance. The lush salons here (around Salle 87) are just the ticket if you’re a fan of the Napoléon III style—the apotheosis of 19th-century, red-and-gilt opulence.

To get into the Louvre, you may have to wait in two long lines: one outside the Pyramide entrance portal and another downstairs at the ticket booths. You can avoid the first by entering through the Carrousel du Louvre and buying a ticket at the machines. Your ticket (be sure to hold on to it) will get you into any and all of the wings as many times as you like during one day—and once you have your ticket you can skip the entry line. Once inside, you should stop by the information desk to pick up a free color-coded map and check which rooms are closed for the day. (Closures rotate through the week, so you can come back if something is temporarily unavailable.) Beyond this, you’ll have all you need—shops, a post office, and places to eat. Café Marly may have an enviable location facing into the Cour Napoléon, but its food is decidedly lackluster. For a more soigné lunch, keep your appetite in check until you get to the museum’s stylish Café Richelieu, or head outside the palace walls. There’s also a full calendar of lectures, films, concerts, and special exhibits; some are part of the excellent lunch-hour series called Les Midis du Louvre. Most are not included in the basic ticket price—pick up a three-month schedule at the information desk or check online for information. Remember that the Louvre is closed on Tuesday. | Palais du Louvre, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–40–20–53–17 information | www.louvre.fr | €9.50, €6 after 6 PM Wed. and Fri., free 1st Sun. of month; €11 for Napoléon Hall exhibitions | Mon., Thurs., and weekends 9–6, Wed. and Fri. 9 AM–10 PM | Station: Palais-Royal.

Musée de l’Orangerie.

People line up for hours for a glimpse of Claude Monet’s huge, meditative Water Lilies (Nymphéas), displayed in galleries designed in 1914 by the master himself. The museum, once a winter greenhouse for the Tuileries’ citrus trees, was renovated in 2006. The small, excellent collection includes early-20th-century paintings by Renoir, Cézanne, Matisse, and Modigliani, among others. | Jardin des Tuileries at Pl. de la Concorde, | 75001Louvre/Tuileries | 01–44–77–80–07 | www.musee-orangerie.fr | €7.50, €13.50 for same-day entry to Musée d’Orsay | Wed.–Mon., 9–6 | Station: Concorde.

Musée du Jeu de Paume.

This 19th-century building at the entrance to the Jardin des Tuileries, on the Rue de Rivoli side, was once used for jeu de paume (or “palm game,” a forerunner of tennis). It later served as a transfer point for art looted by the Germans in World War II. Today it’s been given another lease on life as an ultramodern, white-walled showcase for temporary photography exhibits displaying icons such as Richard Avedon and Lee Miller as well as up-and-comers. | 1 pl. de la Concorde, | 75001Louvre/Tuileries | 01–47–03–12–50 | www.jeudepaume.org | €7 | Tues. noon–9, Wed.–Fri. noon–7, weekends 10–7 | Station: Concorde.

Fodor’s Choice | Notre-Dame.

Looming above the large, pedestrian Place du Parvis is la cathédrale de Notre-Dame, the most enduring symbol of Paris. Begun in 1163, completed in 1345, badly damaged during the Revolution, and restored by Viollet-le-Duc in the 19th century, Notre-Dame may not be France’s oldest or largest cathedral, but in terms of beauty and architectural harmony, it has few peers—as you can see by studying the facade from the open square. The doorways seem like hands joined in prayer, and the sculpted kings form a noble procession, while the West rose window gleams, to wax poetic, like the eye of divinity. Above, the gallery breaks the lines of the stone vaults, and between the two high towers the flêche soars from the crossing of the transept. The cathedral was conceived by Bishop de Sully, who claimed he had seen the building in a vision. More pragmatically, Sully needed a cathedral in Paris so that he could compete with Abbot Suger’s phenomenal cathedral in St-Denis, just north of the city. An army of stonemasons, carpenters, and sculptors came to work and live on the site, which had already seen a Roman temple, an early Christian basilica, and a Romanesque church. The chancel and altar were consecrated in 1182, but the magnificent sculptures surrounding the main doors were not put into position until 1240.

The facade divides neatly into three levels. At the first-floor level are the three main entrances, or portals: the Portal of the Virgin, on the left; the Portal of the Last Judgment, in the center; and the Portal of St. Anne, on the right. All three are surmounted by magnificent carvings—most of them 19th-century copies of the originals—of figures, foliage, and biblical scenes. Above these are the restored statues of the kings of Israel, the Galerie des Rois. Above the gallery is the great rose window and, above that, the Grande Galerie, at the base of the twin towers. The south tower houses the great bell of Notre-Dame, as tolled by Quasimodo, Victor Hugo’s fictional hunchback. The 387-step climb to the top of the towers is worth the effort for a close-up of the famous gargoyles—most added in the 19th century by Viollet-le-Duc—as they frame an expansive view of the city. If some find both towers a bit top heavy, that’s because they were designed to be topped by two needlelike spires, which were never built. The spectacular cathedral interior, with its vast proportions, soaring nave, and soft multicolor light dimly filtering through the stained-glass windows, inspires awe—visit early in the morning, when the cathedral is at its lightest and least crowded. There are free guided tours in English on Wednesday and Thursday at 2 and Saturday at 2:30. When it comes to views of Notre-Dame, no visit is complete without a riverside walk past the cathedral through Square Jean-XXIII. It offers a breathtaking sight of the east end of the cathedral, ringed by flying buttresses and surmounted by the spire. To put the cathedral in its proper medieval context, explore the super-charming Ancien Cloître Quarter, set just to the north of the cathedral. | Pl. du Parvis, Ile de la Cité | 01–42–34–56–10 | www.notredamedeparis.fr | Cathedral free, towers €8, crypt €4, treasury €2.50 | Cathedral daily 8–6:45. Towers Apr.–June and Sept., daily 10 AM–6:30 PM; July and Aug., weekdays 10–6:30, weekends 10 AM–11 PM; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–5:30. Note towers close early when overcrowded. Treasury weekdays 9:30 AM –6 PM, Sat. 9:30–6:30, Sun. 1:30–6:30; Crypt Tues.–Sun. 10–6 | Station: Cité.

Place de la Concorde.

This majestic square at the foot of the Champs-Élysées was laid out in the 1770s, but there was nothing in the way of peace or concord about its early years. Called Place de la Révolution, more than 2,500 victims, including Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette, lost their heads to the guillotine here. Renamed Concorde in 1836, it got a new centerpiece: the 75-foot granite Obelisk of Luxor, a gift from Egypt quarried in the 8th century BC. Among the handsome 18th-century buildings facing the square is the Hôtel Crillon, originally built as a private home by Gabriel, architect of Versailles’s Petit Trianon. | Champs-Élysées | 75001 | Station: Concorde.

Fodor’s Choice | Sainte-Chapelle (Holy Chapel).

Not to be missed and one of the most magical sights in European medieval art, this Gothic chapel was built by Louis IX (1226–70; later canonized as St. Louis) in the 1240s to house what he believed to be Christ’s Crown of Thorns, purchased from Emperor Baldwin of Constantinople. A dark lower chapel is a gloomy prelude to the shimmering upper one. Here the famous beauty of Sainte-Chapelle comes alive: instead of walls, all you see are 6,458 square feet of stained glass, delicately supported by painted stonework that seems to disappear in the colorful light streaming through the windows. The lowest section of the windows was restored in the mid-1800s, but otherwise this chapel presents intact incredibly rare stained glass. Deep reds and blues dominate the background glass here, noticeably different from later, lighter medieval styles such as those in Notre-Dame’s rose windows. The Sainte-Chapelle is essentially an enormous magic lantern illuminating the 1,130 figures from the Bible, to create—as one writer poetically put it—”the most marvelous colored and moving air ever held within four walls.” Originally, the king’s holy relics were displayed in the raised apse and shown to the faithful on Good Friday. Today the magic of the chapel comes alive during the regular concerts held here;check the schedule at www.ampconcerts.com. | 4 bd. du Palais, Ile de la Cité | 75001 | 01–53–40–60–80 | sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr | €8, joint ticket with Conciergerie €11 | Mar.– Oct., daily 9:30–6; Nov.–Feb., daily 9–5 | Station: Cité.

WORTH NOTING FROM NOTRE-DAME TO THE PLACE DE LA CONCORDE

Fodor’s Choice | Ancien Cloître Quartier.

Hidden in the shadows of Notre-Dame, this adorable and often overlooked nook of Paris was thankfully spared when Baron Haussmann knocked down much of the Ile de la Cité in the 19th century. Enter the quarter—originally the area where seminary students boarded with the church canons—by heading north from the cathedral toward the Seine to reach Rue Chanoinesse, once the seminary’s cloister walk. Here, at No. 10, is the house that was once paradise to those fabled lovers of the Middle Ages, Héloïse and Abélard. That house, unfortunately, is completely renovated, but there are other houses here that date back to the Middle Ages. Although defaced by a modern police station and garage, this tiny warren of six streets still casts a spell, particularly at the intersection of Rue des Ursins and Rue des Chantres, where a lovely medieval palace, tiny flower garden, and quayside steps form a cul-de-sac where time seems to be holding its breath. | Rue du Cloître-Notre-Dame north to Quai des Fleurs, Ile de la Cité | Station: Cité.

Conciergerie.

Much of Ile de la Cité’s medieval buildings fell victim to wunderkind planner Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann’s ambitious rebuilding program of the 1860s. Among the rare survivors is the former city prison where Marie-Antoinette and other victims of the French Revolution spent their last days. Built by Philip IV in the 13th and 14th centuries, the Conciergerie was part of the original palace of the kings of France, before the royals moved into the Louvre, in 1358; in 1391, this palace was turned into a prison. During the French Revolution, the Conciergerie famously imprisoned Queen Marie-Antoinette as she awaited her fatal trip to the guillotine. You can visit a re-creation of Marie-Antoinette’s cell, see lifelike wax figures sadly await their fate behind bars, and read letters penned by some of Paris’s famous revolutionaries. The chapel’s stained glass is emblazoned with the initials M. A.; it was commissioned after the queen’s death by her daughter. Outside, in the courtyard, victims of the Terror spent their final days playing piquet, writing letters to loved ones, washing clothes, and waiting for the dreaded climb up the staircase to the Chamber of the Revolutionary Council to hear its final verdict. The building takes its name from the palace’s concierge, or high-level keeper of the palace. | 2 bd. du Palais,Ile de la Cité | 01–53–40–60–80 | conciergerie.monuments-nationaux.fr | €7, joint ticket with Sainte-Chapelle €11 | Mar.–Oct., daily 9:30–6; Nov.–Feb., daily 9–5 | Station: Cité.

La Défense.

First conceived in 1958, this modernist suburb across the Seine from Neuilly was inspired by Le Corbusier’s dream of high-rise buildings, pedestrian walkways, and sunken vehicle circulation. An experiment to keep high-rises out of the historic downtown, this Parisian business hub has survived economic uncertainty to become a surprising success, dotted with modern art, public sculptures, hundreds of corporate offices, and even 20,000 residents. Crowning the main plaza is the iconic Grande Arche de La Défense, an enormous open cube of a building where tubular glass elevators whisk you 360 feet to the top. | Parvis de La Défense, La Défense | 92040 | 01–49–07–27–27 | www.grandearche.com | www.grandearche.com | Grande Arche €10 | Apr.–Aug., daily 10–8; Sept.–Mar. daily 10–7 | Station: Métro; RER: Grande Arche de LaDéfense.

Pont Neuf (New Bridge).

Crossing the Ile de la Cité, just behind Square du Vert-Galant, is the oldest bridge in Paris, confusingly called the New Bridge—the name was given when it was completed in 1607, and it stuck. It was the first bridge in the city to be built without houses lining either side, allegedly because Henri IV wanted a clear view of Notre-Dame from his windows at the Louvre. | Ile de la Cité | Station: Pont-Neuf.

FROM THE EIFFEL TOWER TO THE ARC DE TRIOMPHE

The Eiffel Tower (or Tour Eiffel, to use the French) lords over southwest Paris, and from nearly wherever you are on this walk you can see its jutting needle. For years many Parisians felt it was an iron eyesore and called it the Giant Asparagus, a vegetable that weighed 15 million pounds and grew 1,000 feet high. But gradually the tower became part of the Parisian landscape, entering the hearts and souls of Parisians and visitors alike. Thanks to its stunning nighttime illumination, topped by four 6,000-watt projectors creating a lighthouse beacon visible for 80 km (50 mi) around, it continues to make Paris live up to its moniker La Ville Lumière—the City of Light. Water is the second highlight here: fountains playing beneath Place du Trocadéro and boat tours along the Seine on a Bateau Mouche. Museums are the third; the area around Trocadéro is full of them. Style is the fourth, and not just because the buildings here are overwhelmingly elegant—but because this is also the center of haute couture, with the top names in fashion all congregated around Avenue Montaigne, only a brief walk from the Champs-Élysées, to the north.

TOP ATTRACTIONS FROM THE EIFFEL TOWER TO THE ARC DE TRIOMPHE

Arc de Triomphe.

Set on Place Charles-de-Gaulle—known to Parisians as L’Étoile, or the Star (a reference to the streets that fan out from it)—the colossal, 164-foot Arc de Triomphe arch was planned by Napoléon but not finished until 1836, 20 years after the end of his rule. It’s decorated with some magnificent sculptures by François Rude, such as the Departure of the Volunteers, better known as La Marseillaise, to the right of the arch when viewed from the Champs-Élysées. A small museum halfway up the arch is devoted to its history. France’s Unknown Soldier is buried beneath the archway; the flame is rekindled every evening at 6:30. | Pl. Charles-de-Gaulle, Champs-Élysées | 75016 | 01–55–37–73–77 | www.arc-de-triomphe.monuments-nationaux.fr | €9, under 18 free | Apr.–Sept., daily 10 AM–11 PM; Oct.–Mar., daily 10 AM–10:30 PM | Station: Métro; RER: Étoile.

Bateaux Mouches.

If you want to view Paris in slow motion, hop on one of these famous motorboats, which set off on their hour-long tours of the city waters regularly (every half hour in summer) from Place de l’Alma. Their route heads east to the Ile St-Louis and then back west, past the Tour Eiffel, as far as the Allée des Cygnes and its miniature version of the Statue of Liberty. Note that some travelers prefer to take this Seine cruise on the smaller Vedettes du Pont Neuf, which depart from Square du Vert-Galant on the Ile de la Cité, as the Vedettes have a guide giving commentary in French and English, while the Bateaux Mouches have a loud recorded spiel in several languages. For the quietest journey, take the city-run Batobus, which has no commentary and allows you to get on and off at its various quayside stops. | Pl. de l’Alma, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75008 | 01–42–25–96–10 | www.bateaux-mouches.fr | €10 | Station: Alma-Marceau.

Champs-Élysées.

Marcel Proust lovingly described the genteel elegance of the storied Avenue des Champs-Élysées during its Belle Époque heyday, when its cobblestones resounded with the clatter of horses and carriages. Today, despite unrelenting traffic and the intrusion of chain stores and fast-food restaurants, the avenue still sparkles. There’s always something happening here: the stores are open late—and many are open on Sunday (a rarity in Paris), the nightclubs remain top destinations, and the cafés offer prime people-watching—though you’ll pay for the privilege: after all, this is Europe’s most expensive stretch of real estate. Along the 2-km (1¼-mi) stretch, you can find the marquee names in French luxury, including Cartier, the perfumier Guerlain, and Louis Vuitton. Old stalwarts are still going strong, if a bit faded, like the Lido cabaret and Fouquet’s, whose celebrity clientele extends from James Joyce to President Nicolas Sarkozy, who celebrated his election night victory at this restaurant in May 2007. The avenue is also the setting for the last leg of the Tour de France bicycle race (the third or fourth Sunday in July), and ceremonies on Bastille Day (July 14) and Armistice Day (November 11). The Champs-Élysées, which translates as “Elysian Fields” (the resting place of the blessed in Greek mythology), began life as a cow pasture. | Station: Champs-Élysées–Clemenceau, Franklin-D.-Roosevelt, George V, Étoile.

Musée Guimet.

The excellent Guimet National Museum of Asian Arts traces its roots to the 19th-century Lyonnais industrialist Émile Guimet. The world-class collection, enriched by the state’s vast holdings, is laid out geographically in airy, light-filled rooms, thanks to a top-end renovation a decade ago. The museum is home to the largest collection of Khmer sculpture outside of Cambodia, a comprehensive China collection, and treasures from across the Far East. Peek into the old library rotunda, where Mata Hari danced for the city’s notables one evening in 1905. Pick up a free English-language audio guide and brochure at the entrance. If you have time, check out the Guimet’s impressive Buddhist Pantheon down the street at 19 ave. d’Iéna (admission is free). | 6 pl. d’Iéna, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75016 | 01–56–52–53–00 | www.museeguimet.fr | €6.50 | Wed.–Sun. 10–6 | Station: Iéna or Boissiére.

Musée Marmottan–Claude Monet.

A few years ago the underrated Marmottan tacked Claude Monet onto its official name—and justly so, as this may be the best collection of the artist’s works anywhere. Monet’s works occupy a specially built basement gallery in this elegant 19th-century mansion, where you can find such captivating works as the Cathédrale de Rouen series (1892–96) and Impression: Soleil Levant (Impression–Sunrise, 1872), the work that helped give the Impressionist movement its name. Upstairs the mansion still feels like a graciously decorated private home. | 2 rue Louis-Boilly, Passy-Auteuil | 75016 | 01–44–96–50–33 | www.marmottan.com | €9 | Tues. 11–9, Wed.–Sun. 11–6 | Station: La Muette.

Fodor’s Choice | Tour Eiffel (Eiffel Tower).

La Tour Eiffel (pronounced ef-el), Paris’s most famous landmark was built by Gustave Eiffel for the World Exhibition of 1889, the centennial of the French Revolution, and was still in good shape to celebrate its own 100th birthday. Such was Eiffel’s engineering wizardry that even in the strongest winds his tower never sways more than 4½ inches. Since its colossal bulk exudes a feeling of mighty permanence, you may have trouble believing that it nearly became 7,000 tons of scrap iron when its concession expired in 1909. At first many Parisians hated the structure, and only its potential use as a radio antenna saved the day (it still bristles with a forest of radio and television transmitters). Now the largest Tinkertoy in the world is the beloved symbol of Paris. If you’re full of energy, stride up the stairs as far as the third deck. If you want to go to the top, you’ll have to take the elevator. Today, the Tour is most breathtaking at night, when every girder is highlighted in a sparkling display originally conceived to celebrate the turn of the millennium. The glittering light show was so popular that the 20,000 lights were reinstalled for permanent use in 2003; the Tour does its electric shimmy for 10 minutes every hour on the hour, from 8 PM until 1 AM in winter and 9 PM until 2 AM in summer (why not take a seat on the grass of the Champs de Mars from 9 to 10 PM and see the lights dance twice?). If you really want to make an occasion of your visit, plan on reserving a table at Jules Verne, the tower’s luxury restaurant, set on the second level. Beat the crushing lines by reserving your tickets online at no extra charge. Go to www.tour-eiffel.fr for details. | Quai Branly, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75007 | 08–92–70–12–39; outside of France 0033–8–92–70–12–39 [€0.34 per min] | www.tour-eiffel.fr | By elevator: 1st and 2nd levels €8, top €13. By stairs: 1st and 2nd levels only, €4.50 | June–late Aug., daily 9 AM–midnight (11 PM for summit); late Aug.–June, daily 9 AM–11 PM (10:30 for summit). Stairs close at dusk in winter | Station: Bir-Hakeim, Trocadéro, Ecole Militaire; RER: Champ de Mars.

WORTH NOTING FROM THE EIFFEL TOWER TO THE ARC DE TRIOMPHE

Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris (Paris Museum of Modern Art).

Although the city’s modern-art museum hasn’t generated a buzz comparable to that of the Centre Georges Pompidou, it can be a more pleasant experience because, like many smaller museums, there are often no crowds. The building reopened after a long renovation in February 2006, and its vast, white-walled galleries make an ideal backdrop for the museum’s temporary exhibitions of 20th-century art. The permanent collection on the lower floor takes over where the Musée d’Orsay leaves off, chronologically speaking: among the earliest works are Fauvist paintings by Maurice Vlaminck and André Derain, followed by Pablo Picasso’s early experiments in Cubism. Other highlights include works by Robert and Sonia Delaunay, Chagall, Matisse, Rothko, and Modigliani. | 11 av. du Président-Wilson, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75016 | 01–53–67–40–00 | www.mam.paris.fr | Permanent collection free, temporary exhibitions €5–€12, depending on exhibition | Tues.–Sun. 10–6, Thurs. until 10 for temporary exhibits | Station: Alma Marceau or Iéna.

Palais de Tokyo.

This Art Nouveau museum reopened in 2002 after many derelict years as a trendy, stripped-down space for contemporary arts with unorthodox, ambitious programming. There is no permanent collection; instead, dynamic temporary exhibits spread over a large, open area reminiscent of a construction site, with a trailer for a ticket booth. Instead of traditional museum guards, young art students—most of whom speak at least some English—are on hand to help explain the installations. There’s also an offbeat gift shop, a bookstore, and the hippest museum restaurant in town, Tokyo Eat. | 13 av. du Président-Wilson, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75016 | 01–47–23–54–01 | www.palaisdetokyo.com | €6 | Tues.–Sun. noon–midnight | Station: Iéna.

Musée du Quai Branly.

Paris’s newest museum was built by top architect Jean Nouvel to house the state-owned collection of “non-Western” art, culled from several other museums. Despite the interminable queues after the opening in 2006, the museum drew criticism for a seemingly incoherent assemblage of artifacts, from antiquity to the modern age. Critics questioned the connection between funeral masks from Melanesia, Siberian shaman drums, Indonesian textiles, and African statuary. A corkscrew ramp leads from the lobby to a cavernous exhibition space, color-coded to designate sections from Asia, Africa, Oceania, and the Americas. The lighting is dim, sometimes too dim to read the information panels (which makes the €5 audio guide a good idea). A “living wall” of some 150 species of exotic plants grows on the exterior—an impressive sight after dark when scores of cylindrical colored lights are illuminated. If you’re hungry, try pricey Les Ombres, with a commanding 5th-floor view of the Eiffel Tower, or the more down-to-earth Le Café Branly on the ground floor. | 37 quai Branly, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75007 | 01–56–61–70–00 | www.quaibranly.fr | €8.50 | Tues., Wed., and Sun. 11–7, Thurs.–Sat. 11–9 | Station: Iéna.

Palais de Chaillot.

This honey-color Art Deco cultural center on Place du Trocadéro was built in the 1930s to replace a Moorish-style building constructed for the World’s Fair of 1878. The plaza-terrace is a top draw for camera-toting visitors intent on snapping the perfect shot of the Eiffel Tower. In the building to the left is the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine—an excellent architecture museum—and the Theâtre National de Chaillot, which occasionally stages plays in English. The twin building to the right contains the Musée de la Marine, an excellent small museum with a nautical theme; and the Musée de l’Homme, which is closed for renovation and set to reopen, as the Musée de l’Humanité, in 2012 or beyond. Also here is the cozy Café de l’Homme, which has a fantastic view of the tower, but a pricey menu that is not nearly as stellar. The garden leading to the Seine has sculptures and dramatic fountains and is a dramatic staging ground for fireworks on July 14, Bastille Day. | Pl. du Trocadéro, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75016 | Station: Trocadéro.

THE FAUBOURG ST-HONORÉ AND LES HALLES

The impossibly posh Faubourg St-Honoré has been a fashionista destination for three centuries, as popular now as it was when royal mistresses shopped here. Just about every chic boutique has a branch here, and this is where you can find some of the city’s best hotels. Once the stomping ground of kings and queens, today it’s home to the French president and the American and British ambassadors. Stroll the historic passageways and arcaded streets to experience all that is elegant about Paris. Top-end boutiques, dressmakers, and perfume shops combined to make this faubourg (district) a symbol of luxury throughout the world. The centerpiece of the western end is ritzy Place Vendome, where you’ll find, yes, the Hotel Ritz. Ambitious women play a role in the history here, with Rue de Castiglione named after a former denizen, Countess de Castiglione, sent to (successfully) plead the cause of Italian unity with Napoléon III. Coco Chanel founded her fashion house on Rue Cambon.

As you walk east, don’t miss gems such as Galerie Vivienne, the exquisitely restored 19th-century shopping arcade. Nearby is the Place Colette, named after the writer Colette and home to the stately theater, the Comédie Française, still going strong after 400 years. Hidden just off the place is the Palais-Royal, a romantic garden ringed by arcades with boutiques selling everything from antique war medals to the latest frock by Stella McCartney. To the east, mercantile Les Halles has risen from its roots as the city’s vermin-infested wholesale food market (closed in 1969) to become one of the city’s trendiest neighborhoods, with expensive apartments and trendy shops, cafés, and bars centered on the pedestrian streets Montorgueil and Montmartre. At the hub of it all is Paris’s most famous modern art museum, the Centre Georges Pompidou.

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN THE FAUBOURG ST-HONORÉ AND LES HALLES

Centre Pompidou.

Love it or hate it, the Pompidou is certainly the city’s most unique-looking building. Most Parisians have warmed to the industrial, Lego-like exterior that caused a scandal when it opened in 1977. Named after French president Georges Pompidou (1911–74), it was designed by then-unknowns Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers. The architects’ claim to fame was putting the building’s guts on the outside and color-coding them: water pipes are green, air ducts are blue, electrics are yellow, and things like elevators and escalators are red. Art from the 20th century to the present day is what you can find inside. The Musée National d’Art Moderne (Modern Art Museum, entrance on Level 4) occupies the top two levels. Level 5 is devoted to modern art, 1905–60 including major works by Matisse, Modigliani, Marcel Duchamp, and Picasso; Level 4 is dedicated to contemporary art from the ‘60s on, including video installations. Outside, next to the museum’s sloping plaza—where throngs of teenagers hang out (and there’s free Wi-Fi)—is the Atelier Brancusi (Brancusi Studio). This small, airy museum contains four rooms reconstituting Brancusi’s Montparnasse studios with works from all periods of his career. On the opposite side, in the Place Igor-Stravinsky, is the Stravinsky Fountain, which has 16 gyrating mechanical figures in primary colors. | Pl. Georges-Pompidou, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 75004 | 01–44–78–12–33 | www.centrepompidou.fr | €12 May–Aug., €10 Sept.–Apr.; €8–€9 for temporary exhibits; free 1st Sun. of month | Wed.–Mon. 11–9, temporary exhibitions 11–10; Atelier Brancusi 2–6

QUICK BITES: There are many cafés around the Centre Pompidou, but Dame Tartine (2 rue Brisemiche | 01–42–77–32–22 | Station: Rambuteau) overlooking the Stravinsky fountain, with its colorful sculptures, is a good choice. You won’t go wrong with a homemade quiche, salad, or a classic cassoulet.

Galerie Vivienne.

The grand dame of Paris’s 19th-century passages couverts, or covered arcades, a walk through this beautifully restored galerie, with its tiled floor, will send you back to a time of gaslights and horse-drawn carriages. Parisians came to passages like this one to escape the muddy streets, and browse the boutiques under the glass-and-iron roofs—the world’s first shopping malls. Today, the Galerie Vivienne still attracts top-flight shops such as Jean-Paul Gaultier (6 rue Vivienne), as well as some more affordable ones. If you need a break, A Priori Thé has been comforting travelers for more than 20 years with its teas and sweets. Or pull up a stool at the wine bar at Legrand Filles et Fils, a family-run épicerie (grocery) and wine shop. | Main entrance at 4 rue des Petits-Champs, Louvre/Tuileries | 75002 | Station: Palais-Royal/Bourse.

Les Arts Décoratifs.

(Decorative Arts Center).

Sharing a wing of the Musée du Louvre, but with a separate entrance and admission charge, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs is home to a stellar collection of decorative arts. Spread across nine floors, the vast holdings include altarpieces from the Middle Ages and furnishings from the Italian Renaissance to the present day. Renovated in 2006, the museum has period rooms reflecting the ages. The arts center comprises two other museums—more aptly called departments—which play host to temporary exhibitions: the Musée de la Mode et du Textiles (Museum of Fashion and Textiles) and the Musée de la Publicité, dedicated to advertising and publicity. There is also a quiet restaurant, Le Saut du Loup, with an outdoor terrace that serves lunch even on Monday when the museum is closed. | 107 rue de Rivoli, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–44–55–57–50 | www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr | €8–€16.50 | Tues., Wed., and Fri. 11–6, Thurs. 11–9, weekends 10–6 | Station: Palais-Royal.

QUICK BITES: Once patronized by Proust and Gertrude Stein (who loved the chocolate cake here) Angélina (226 rue de Rivoli, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–42–60–82–00), founded in 1903, is an elegant salon de thé (tearoom), famous for its chocolat africain, a jug of incredibly thick hot chocolate served with whipped cream (irresistible even in summer). Although it’s still among the city’s best chocolate hits, finicky Proust would probably sniff at the slightly shopworn air of the place today and reserve his affections for the ever-elegant teas served at historic Ladurée, a short walk to the east at 16 rue Royale.

Fodor’s Choice | Palais-Royal (Royal Palace).

This most romantic and quiet of Paris gardens, enclosed within the former home of Cardinal Richelieu (1585–1642), is an ideal spot to while away an afternoon. Do like the locals and cuddle with your sweetheart on a bench under the trees, soak up the sunshine beside the fountain, or browse the 400-year-old arcades, now home to chic boutiques and quirky shops. One of the city’s oldest restaurants is here, the haute-cuisine jewel box Le Grand Véfour, where brass plaques recall regulars like Napoléon and Victor Hugo. Built in 1629, the palais became royal when Richelieu bequeathed it to Louis XIII. Other famous residents include Jean Cocteau and Colette, who wrote of her pleasurable “country” view of the province à Paris. Today, the garden often plays host to giant-size temporary art installations sponsored by another tenant, the Ministry of Culture. The courtyard off Place Colette is outfitted with a strange collection of black-and-white columns created in 1986 by the artist Daniel Buren. | Pl. du Palais-Royal, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | Station: Palais-Royal.

Place Vendôme.

Property laws have kept this refined square spare and pure. The architect Jules-Hardouin Mansart designed the perfectly proportioned plaza in 1702 as an octagon. To maintain a uniform appearance, Mansart built only the façades of the hôtels particuliers (mansions), and the lots behind were then sold to buyers who customized their palaces. In the square’s center, a 144-foot column erected by Napoléon was toppled in 1871 by painter Gustave Courbet and his band of Revolutionaries. The Third Republic stuck the pieces back together again and sent him the bill, though he died without paying. Chopin lived and died at No. 12, which is also where Napoléon III enjoyed trysts with his mistress; since 1902 it has been home to Chaumet, one of several high-end jewelers in the area. At No. 15, the Hotel Ritz remains a top destination where celebs can often be found quaffing some of the city’s best—and priciest—cocktails in the tiny Hemingway Bar. | Station: Opéra.

WORTH NOTING IN THE FAUBOURG ST-HONORÉ AND LES HALLES

Comédie Française.

Mannered productions of Molière, Racine, and Corneille appear regularly on the bill here, but only in French. Founded in 1680 by Louis XIV, the theater finally opened its doors to the public in 1799. It nearly burned to the ground a hundred years later; what you’re looking at dates from 1900. The comedienne Sarah Bernhardt began her career here. | 1 pl. Colette, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 08–25–10–16–80 | www.comedie-francaise.fr | Station: Palais-Royal.

Église de La Madeleine (Church of La Madeleine).

With its rows of uncompromising columns, this enormous neoclassical edifice in the center of the Place de la Madeleine was consecrated as a church in 1842, nearly 78 years after construction began. Initially planned as a Baroque building, it was later razed and begun anew by an architect who had the Roman Pantheon in mind. Interrupted by the Revolution, the site was razed yet again when Napoléon decided to make it into a Greek temple dedicated to the glory of his army. Those plans changed when the army was defeated and the emperor deposed. Other ideas for the building included making it into a train station, a market, and a library. Finally, Louis XVIII decided to make it a church, which it still is today. There are also concerts here. | Pl. de la Madeleine, Faubourg | 75008 | www.eglise-lamadeleine.com | Daily 9–7 | Station: Madeleine.

THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS

In Belle Époque Paris, the Grand Boulevards were the place to see and be seen: in the cafés, at the opera, or in the ornate passages, the glass-covered arcades that were the world’s first shopping malls. If you close your eyes, you can almost imagine the Grands Boulevards immortalized on canvas by the Impressionists: well-dressed Parisians strolling wide avenues dotted with shops, cafés, and horse-drawn carriages—all set against a backdrop of stately Haussmannian buildings. Today, despite the chain stores, sidewalk vendors, and fast-food joints, the Grands Boulevards remain the city’s shopping epicenter, home to the most popular grands magasins (department stores), Galeries Lafayette and Au Printemps, near Place de l’Opéra at the heart of the long chain of avenues, which change names six times.

Commerce aside, the Grands Boulevards are a cultural destination anchored by the Palais Garnier, the magnificent opera house commissioned by Napoléon III. The neighborhood is also home to some of the city’s best small museums, all former private collections housed in 19th-century maisons particuliers (mansions) that alone are worth the trip. The exquisite Musée Jacquemart-André plays host to an impressive collection of Italian Renaissance art, while the jewel box Musée Nissim de Camondo remembers one family’s tragic end.

TOP ATTRACTIONS ON THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS

Cimetière du Père-Lachaise (Père-Lachaise Cemetery).

As far as cemeteries go, this one is a powerhouse—a veritable necropolis with 118 acres of sedate cobbled avenues and tombs competing in pomposity and originality. Rocker Jim Morrison of the Doors still draws pilgrims three decades after his death, as does the tomb of scribe Oscar Wilde, covered in lipstick kisses. If puckering up isn’t your thing, bring a red rose for the “little sparrow” Edith Piaf. The famed medieval lovers Héloïse and Abélard are here, along with composer Chopin; artists Ingres and Georges Seurat; playwright Molière; writers Balzac, Proust, Colette, and Gertrude Stein, sharing a grave with lover Alice B. Toklas. Named for Pére François de la Chaise, Louis XIV’s confessor, Père-Lachaise has some political history attached to it—it was the site of the Paris Commune’s final battle on May 28, 1871, when 147 rebels were lined up and shot against the Mur des Fédérés (Federalists’ Wall) in the southeast corner. Buy a map on the street before you enter; you’ll still get lost but it’s well worth it. | Entrances on Rue des Rondeaux, Bd. de Ménilmontant, Rue de la Réunion, Père Lachaise | 75020 | 01–55–25–82–10 | www.pere-lachaise.com | Easter–Sept., daily 8–6; Oct.–Easter, daily 8–dusk | Station: Gambetta, Philippe-Auguste, Père-Lachaise.

Galeries Lafayette.

The stunning Byzantine glass coupole, or dome, is not to be missed—just wander to the center of the perfume and cosmetics department on the main floor and look up. Next door, the excellent Lafayette Gourmet food hall, on the second floor of the men’s store, has one of the city’s best selections of delicacies. Try the apricot-pistachio bread at Eric Kayser or a green tea éclair from Japanese-French baker Sadaharu Aoki. | 40 bd. Haussmann, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75009 | 01–42–82–34–56 | www.galerieslafayette.com | Mon.–Wed., Fri., and Sat. 9:30–8, Thurs. 9:30–9 | Station: Chaussée d’Antin, Opéra; RER: Auber.

Musée Jacquemart-André.

Perhaps the city’s best small museum, the opulent Musée Jacquemart-André is home to a vast collection of art and furnishings lovingly assembled in the late 19th century by banking heir Edouard André and his artist wife, Nélie Jacquemart. Their midlife marriage in 1881 raised eyebrows—he was a dashing bachelor and a Protestant, and she, no great beauty, hailed from a modest Catholic family. Still, theirs was a happy union fused by a common passion for art. Their collection favored the Italian Renaissance, but they also amassed works by French painters Fragonard, Jacques-Louis David, and François Boucher, and Dutch masters Van Dyke and Rembrandt. Immortalized in the Oscar-winner Gigi, the Belle Époque mansion itself is a star attraction. You can tour the separate bedrooms—his in dusty pink, hers in pale yellow. The former dining room, now an elegant café with an outdoor terrace, has one of the mansion’s several stunning ceilings by Tiepolo. Don’t forget the free audio guide in English. | 158 bd. Haussmann, Parc Monceau | 75008 | 01–45–62–11–59 | www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com | €10 | Daily 10–6 | Station: St-Philippe-du-Roule or Miromesnil.

QUICK BITES: Just steps from the Drouot auction house, J’go (4 rue Drouot, Grands Boulevards | 01–40–22–09–09), one of two Paris outposts of the Toulouse wine bar and restaurant, is a perfect spot for an evening apéritif or a light dinner. The cozy bar serves an impressive menu of grignotages (tapas) from France’s southwest, such as peppery foie gras on bread or Basque cheese with jam, either of which is nicely paired with a glass of madiran, a hearty red from the Pyrenees. The restaurant upstairs serves rib-sticking specialties such as lamb stuffed with foie gras. The name is a play on the French “J’y vais,” or “I go there.”

Fodor’s Choice | Musée Nissim de Camondo.

Perhaps the most opulent and best museum devoted to French 18th-century decorative arts, this mansion is about as glamorous as Paris gets. However, all of its splendor is steeped in tragedy, as it was created by the Camondo family whose haunting story is recorded within the walls of this superb museum. Patriarch Moïse de Camondo, born in Istanbul to a successful banking family, built this showpiece mansion in 1911 in the style of the Petit Trianon at Versailles, and stocked it with some of the most exquisite furniture, boiseries (wainscoting), and bibelots of the mid- to late 18th century. Despite his vast wealth and purported charm, his wife left him five years after their marriage. Then his son, Nissim, was killed in World War I. Upon Moïse’s death in 1935, the house and its contents were left to the state as a museum, and named for his lost son. A few years later, daughter Irène, her husband, and two children were murdered at Auschwitz. No heirs remained. Today, the house remains an impeccable tribute to Moïse’s life, from the gleaming salons to the state-of-the-art kitchen. There are background materials and an excellent free audio guide in English. | 63 rue de Monceau, Parc Monceau | 75008 | 01–53–89–06–50 | www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr | €6 | Wed.–Sun. 10–5:30 | Station: Villiers.

Fodor’s Choice | Palais Garnier (Opéra).

Haunt of the Phantom of the Opera and the real-life inspiration for Edgar Degas’s dancer paintings, the opulent Palais Garnier, also called the Opéra Garnier, is one of two homes of the National Opera of Paris. The building was begun in 1860 by then-unknown architect Charles Garnier, who finished his masterwork 15 long years later, way over budget. Festooned with (real) gold leaf, colored marble, paintings, and sculpture from the top artists of the day, the opera house was about as subtle as Versailles and sparked controversy in post-Revolutionary France. Treat yourself to a performance, or take a guided tour (€12; in English), which includes a stop in the lavish auditorium with a ceiling by Chagall. There is also a small ballet museum with a few works by Degas and the tutu worn by prima ballerina Anna Pavlova when she danced her epic Dying Swan in 1905. | Pl. de l’Opéra, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75009 | 08–92–89–90–90, 01–41–10–08–10 for tours | www.operadeparis.fr | €12 for guided visit; €8 for solo visit | Daily 10–5.

Parc Monceau.

This exquisitely landscaped park began in 1778 as the Duc de Chartres’s private garden. Though some of the parkland was sold off under the Second Empire (creating the exclusive real estate that now borders the park), the refined atmosphere and some of the fanciful faux-ruins have survived. Immaculately dressed children play, watched by their nannies, while lovers picnic on the grassy lawns. In 1797 André Garnerin, the world’s first-recorded parachutist, staged a landing in the park. The rotunda—known as the Chartres Pavilion—is surely the city’s grandest public restroom; it started life as a tollhouse. | Entrances on Bd. de Courcelles, Av. Velasquez, Av. Ruysdaël, Av. van Dyck, Parc Monceau | 75008 | Station: Monceau.

Passage Jouffroy.

Before there were the grands magasins (department stores), there were the passages couverts, covered arcades that offered the early-19th-century Parisian shopper a little bit of heaven: a hodgepodge of shops under one roof, and a respite from the gritty streets. East of Place de l’Opéra, three of these arcades are still standing end-to-end, with the most refined, Passage Jouffroy, in the center. Built in 1846, as its giant clock will tell you, this shop-filled passage also contains the Musée Grevin, a wax museum, and the well-regarded budget Hotel Chopin at No. 46. At the northern end, across the Rue de la Grange-Batelière, is the Passage Verdeau (Rue de la Grange-Batelière 9e), and on the opposite end of Jouffroy, across Grands Boulevards, is the Passage des Panoramas (2e). The granddaddy of the arcades, built in 1800, it was the first public space in Paris equipped with gaslights in 1817. | 10 bd. Montmartre, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75009 | Station: Richelieu Drouot.

WORTH NOTING ON THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS

Hôtel Drouot.

Hidden away in a small antiques district not far from the opera house is Paris’s central auction house, selling everything from bric-a-brac to old clothes to rare Chinese laquered boxes to Renoirs. You can walk in off the street and browse through the open salesrooms, which can be tons of fun depending on what’s on the selling block. Mingle with a mix of art dealers, ladies who lunch, and art amateurs hoping to unearth an unidentified masterpiece. Anyone can attend the sales and viewings. TIP Don’t miss the small galleries and antiques dealers in the Quartier Drouot, a warren of small streets around the auction house. | 9 rue Drouot, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75009 | 01–48–00–20–00 | www.drouot.com | Viewings of merchandise Mon.–Sat. 11–6. Auctions begin at 2 | Station: Richelieu Drouot.

Musée Gustave-Moreau.

A visit to the town house and studio of painter Gustave Moreau (1826–98), a high priest of the Symbolist movement, is one of the most unique art experiences in Paris. Moreau had always planned to have his home made into a museum after his death, so he created a light-flooded gallery on the two top floors to best show off his dark paintings. The Symbolists loved objects, and Moreau was no different. His cramped private apartment on the first floor is jam-packed with bric-a-brac, and artworks cover every inch of the walls. From Galeries Lafayette (or the Chaussée D’Antin métro stop), follow Rue de la Chaussée d’Antin up to the Trinité church, turn right on Rue St-Lazare, and left on Rue de la Rochefoucauld. The museum is a block up on the right. | 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75009 | 01–48–74–38–50 | www.musee-moreau.fr | €5 | Wed.–Mon. 10–12:45 and 2–5:15 | Station: Trinité.

Musée de la Vie Romantique.

A visit to the charming Museum of the Romantic Life, dedicated to novelist George Sand (1804–76), will transport you to the countryside. In a pretty 1830s mansion at the end of a tree-lined courtyard, the small permanent collection includes drawings by Delacroix and Ingrès, among others, though Sand is the star. There are glass cases stuffed with her jewelry and snuff boxes, and even a mold of the hand of composer Frederic Chopin, one of her many lovers. There is usually an interesting temporary exhibition. Take a break in the charming garden café, open from Easter to late September. | 16 rue Chaptal, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75009 | 01–55–31–95–67 | www.vie-romantique.paris.fr | Free; €7 for temporary exhibits | Tues.–Sun. 10–6 | Station: Blanche, Pigalle, St. Georges.

THE MARAIS AND THE BASTILLE

From swampy to swanky, Le Marais has a fascinating history that continues to evolve. Like an aging pop star, the quartier has remade itself many times, and today retains several identities: the city’s epicenter of cool with hip boutiques, designer hotels, and art galleries galore; the hub of Paris’s gay community; and, though fading, the nucleus of Jewish life. You could easily spend your entire visit to Paris in this neighborhood, there is that much to do.

Marais means “marsh” and that is exactly what this area was until the 12th century when it was converted to farmland. In 1605, Henri IV began building the Place Royale (today’s Place des Vosges, the oldest square in Paris), which touched off a building boom, and the wealthy and fabulous moved in. Despite the odors—the area was one of the city’s smelliest—it remained the chic quarter until Louis XIV moved his court to Versailles, trailed by dispirited aristocrats unhappy to decamp to the country. Here you can see the hodgepodge of narrow streets leveled by Baron Haussmann, who feared a redux of the famous barricades that revolutionaries threw up to thwart the monarchy. Miraculously, the Marais escaped destruction, though much of it fell victim to neglect and ruin. Thanks to restoration efforts over the past half century, the district is enjoying its latest era of greatness, and the apartments here—among the city’s oldest—are also the most in demand.

To the east, the hip Bastille—home turf of the French Revolution—still buzzes at night, but competition has emerged from gentrifying neighborhoods farther afield, notably the Canal St-Martin. Once the down-and-out cousin on the city’s northeastern border, the canal is now trend-spotting central, brimming with funky bars, cafés, art galleries, and boutiques.

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN THE MARAIS AND THE BASTILLE

Fodor’s Choice | Canal St-Martin.

The once-forgotten canal has morphed into one of the city’s hippest places to wander by day—and party by night. A good time to come is Sunday afternoon, when the Quai de Valmy is closed to cars and some of the shops are open. The 2.7-mi canal opened in 1825 between the Seine at the southern end at Place de la Bastille, and the Canal de l’Ourcq to the north. Baron Haussmann later ordered a mile-long stretch of it to be covered—this is today’s Boulevard Richard Lenoir—from Rue Faubourg du Temple to the Bastille. These days you can take a boat tour from end to end through the canal’s nine locks.

Canauxrama offers 2½-hour boat cruises through the locks (€15 adults). Check the Web site for times (www.canauxrama.com). | Embarkation is at each end of canal: at Bassin de la Villette, 13 quai de la Loire, La Villette or at Marina Arsenal, 50 bd. de la Bastille, Bastille | Station: Jaurès (northern end) or Bastille (southern end).

Musée Carnavalet.

If it has to do with Paris history, it’s here. This collection is a fascinating hodgepodge of Parisian artifacts and art, from the prehistoric canoes used by Parisii tribes to the furniture of the cork-lined bedroom where Marcel Proust labored over his evocative novels. You can get a great feel for the evolvement of the city through the ages thanks to scores of paintings. The museum fills two adjacent mansions, including the Hôtel Carnavalet, a Renaissance jewel that in the mid-1600s was home to the writer Madame de Sévigné, whose hundreds of frank and funny letters to her daughter offer an incomparable view of life during the time of Louis XIV. The museum gives a glimpse into her world, but the collection covers far more than just the 17th century. The exhibits on the Revolution are especially interesting, with scale models of guillotines and a replica of the Bastille prison carved from one of its stones. There is an amazing assortment of reconstructed interiors from the Middle Ages through the rococo period and into Art Nouveau—showstoppers include the Fouquet jewelry shop and the Café de Paris’s original furnishings. There is some information in English. | 23 rue de Sévigné, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–44–59–58–58 | www.carnavalet.paris.fr | Free for permanent collection, €7 for exhibits | Tues.–Sun. 10–6 | Station: St-Paul.

Musée Picasso.

This immensely popular museum closed in August 2009 for extensive renovations. Set to reopen in February 2012, the $43 million overhaul will double the museum’s display space to 21,500 square feet. | 5 rue de Thorigny, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–42–71–25–21 | www.musee-picasso.

Place de la Bastille.

Nothing remains of the infamous Bastille prison, destroyed more than 200 years ago, though tourists still ask bemused Parisians where to find it. Until the late 1980s, there was little more to see here than a busy traffic circle ringing the Colonne de Juillet (July Column), a memorial to the victims of later uprisings in 1830 and 1848. The opening of the Opéra Bastille in 1989 rejuvenated the area, however, drawing art galleries, bars, and restaurants to the narrow streets, notably along Rue de Lappe—once a haunt of Edith Piaf—and Rue de la Roquette. | Station: Bastille.

Fodor’s Choice | Place des Vosges.

The oldest square in Paris and—dare we say it?—the most beautiful, the Place des Vosges is one of Europe’s oldest stabs at urban planning. The precise proportions offer a placid symmetry, but things weren’t always so calm. Four centuries ago this was the site of the Palais des Tournelles, home to King Henri II and Queen Catherine de’ Medici. The couple staged regular jousting tournaments, and during one of them, in 1559, Henri was fatally lanced in the eye. Catherine fled for the Louvre, abandoning her palace and ordering it destroyed. At the base of the 36 redbrick-and-stone houses—nine on each side of the square—is an arcaded, covered walkway lined with art galleries, shops, and cafés. | Chemin Vert or St-Paul.

QUICK BITES: “The dormouse in the teapot,” Le Loir dans la Théière (3 rue des Rosiers, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–42–72–90–61) is aptly named for the dormouse who fell asleep at Alice in Wonderland’s tea party. This is the perfect place to recover from museum overload—cozy into a leather chair, order a silver pot of tea, and choose a homemade cake.

WORTH NOTING IN MARAIS AND THE BASTILLE

Hôtel de Sully.

This early Baroque gem, built in 1624, is one of the city’s loveliest hôtels particuliers;among the back courtyard’s sculpted rows of hedges you can find a door that opens into the Place des Vosges. Like much of the area, it fell into ruin until the 1950s, when it was rescued by the administration of French historic monuments, Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques, which has its headquarters here. This is also one of two homes of the Jeu de Paume (the other is in the Tuileries), which stages regular photography exhibitions. Near the entrance on the Rue de Rivoli, the bookstore, which stocks many unusual guides on Paris (some in English), is worth a stop to admire the 17th-century ceiling of painted beams. The recently renovated private apartment of the Duchess de Sully—four rooms furnished with period pieces—is open for visits by reservation, for a small charge. | 62 rue St-Antoine, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–44–61–20–00 Hotel de Sully, 01–42–74–47–75 Jeu de Paume | Tues.–Sun. 10–7 Hotel de Sully, Tues.–Fri. noon–7, weekends 10–7 Jeu de Paume | Station: St-Paul.

Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP; European Photography Center). Much of the credit for photography’s current perch in the city’s cultural scene can be given to MEP (whose director, Jean-Luc Monterosso, also founded Paris’s hugely successful Mois de la Photographie festival held in November in even-number years). This terrific center hosts up to four exhibitions every three months, and they include photographers from around the world in their selection. A show on a Magnum photographer could overlap with an Irving Penn display or a collection of 19th-century images. Programs and guided tours are available in English. | 5 rue de Fourcy, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–44–78–75–00 | www.mep-fr.org | €6.50, free Wed. after 5 PM | Wed.–Sun. 11–8 | Station:  St-Paul.

Maison de Victor Hugo.

France’s most famous scribe lived in the northeast corner of Place des Vosges between 1832 and 1848. The house’s first floor is dedicated to temporary exhibits that often have modern ties to Hugo’s work. In Hugo’s apartment on the second floor, you can see the tall desk, next to the short bed, where he began writing his masterwork Les Misérables (as always, standing up). There are manuscripts and early editions of that famous work on display, as well as others such as The Hunchback of Notre Dame. You can see illustrations of Hugo’s writings by other artists, including Bayard’s rendition of the impish Cosette holding her giant broom (which has graced countless Les Miz T-shirts). The collection includes many of Hugo’s own, sometimes macabre, ink drawings (he was a fine artist) and furniture from several of his homes. Particularly impressive is the room of carved and painted Chinese-style wooden panels that Hugo designed for Juliette Drouet’s—his mistress—house on the island of Guernsey, during the writer’s exile there. Try to spot the intertwined Vs and Js. (Hint: Look for the angel’s trumpet in the left corner.) | 6 pl. des Vosges, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–42–72–10–16 | www.musee-hugo.paris.fr | Free; €7 for temporary exhibitions | Tues.–Sun. 10–6 | Station: St-Paul.

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme (Museum of Jewish Art and History).

This excellent museum traces the tempestuous history of French and European Jews through art and history. Opened in 1998 in the refined 17th-century Hôtel St-Aignan, exhibits have good explanatory texts in English, and the free English audio guide is a must; guided tours in English are also available upon request. Highlights include 13th-century tombstones excavated in Paris; a wooden model of a destroyed Eastern European synagogue; and a roomful of early paintings by Marc Chagall. | 71 rue du Temple, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–53–01–86–53 | www.mahj.org | €6.80 | Weekdays 11–6, Sun. 10–6 | Station: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville.

Parc de La Villette.

This 130-acre ultramodern park was once an abattoir, but don’t let its history put you off: today it’s the perfect place to entertain sightseeing-weary kids, with lots of green space, a submarine, and the Espace Chapiteaux, a circus tent featuring superb contemporary acrobatic theater performances. The highlight is the excellent science museum, the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie (30 av. Corentin-Cariou, La Villette | 75019 | 01–40–05–80–00 | www.cite-sciences.fr | €3–€15.50 | Tues.–Sat. 10–6, Sun. 10–7 | Station: Porte de la Villette). Nearby, La Géode, looks like a huge silver golf ball but it’s actually an Omnimax cinema made of polished steel. The complex includes the postmodern Cité de la Musique, a music academy and concert hall, and the Musée de la Musique, with an impressive collection of some 900 musical instruments. (221 av. Jean-Jaurès, La Villette | 75019 | 01–44–84–44–84 | www.cite-musique.fr | €8 | Tues.–Thurs. noon–6, Fri–Sat. noon–10, Sun.10–6 | Station: Porte de Pantin).

THE ILE ST-LOUIS AND THE LATIN QUARTER

Set behind the Ile de la Cité is one of the most romantic spots in Paris, tiny Ile St-Louis. Of the two islands in the Seine—the Ile de la Cité is just to the west—the St-Louis best retains the romance and loveliness of le Paris traditionnel. It has remained in the heart of Parisians as it has remained in the heart of every tourist who came upon it by accident, and without warning—a tiny universe unto itself, shaded by trees, bordered by Seine-side quays, and overhung with ancient stone houses. Up until the 1800s it was reputed that some island residents never crossed the bridges to get to Paris proper—and once you discover the island’s quiet charm, you may understand why. South of the Ile St-Louis on the Left Bank of the Seine is the bohemian Quartier Latin (Latin Quarter), the heart of student Paris for more than 800 years. The neighborhood takes its name from the fact that Latin was the common language of the students, who came from all over Europe. Today the area is full of cheap and cheerful cafés, bars, and shops, and even Roman ruins.

France’s oldest university, La Sorbonne, was founded here in 1257 as a theology school; later it became the headquarters of the University of Paris. In 1968, the student revolution here had an explosive effect on French politics, resulting in major reforms in the education system. The aging soixante-huitards continue to influence French politics, as shown by the election of openly gay, Green Party member Bertrand Delanoë to the mayoralty of Paris.

TOP ATTRACTIONS ON THE ILE ST-LOUIS AND THE LATIN QUARTER

Grande Galerie de l’Evolution (Great Hall of Evolution).

With a parade of taxidermied animals ranging from the tiniest dung beetle to the tallest giraffe, this museum is an excellent break for kids who have been reluctantly trudging through the Louvre. The flagship of the three natural-history museums in the Jardin des Plantes, it is easily the most impressive. The original 1889 building was renovated in 1994, and has a ceiling that changes color to suggest storms, twilight, or the hot savanna sun. Don’t miss the gigantic skeleton of a blue whale, and the stuffed royal rhino—he came from the menagerie at Versailles, where he was a pet of Louis XV. Some English-language information boards are available, but not many. Be sure to hang on to your ticket; it’ll get you a discount at the other museums within the Jardin des Plantes. | 36 rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–40–79–54–79 | www.mnhn.fr | €9 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6 | Station: Pl. Monge or Jussieu.

Fodor’s Choice | Ile St-Louis.

One of the more fabled addresses in Paris, this tiny island has long harbored the rich and famous, including Chopin, Daumier, Helena Rubinstein, Chagall, and the Rothschild family. In fact, the entire island displays striking architectural unity, stemming from the efforts of a group of early-17th-century property speculators led by Christophe Marie. The group commissioned leading Baroque architect Louis Le Vau (1612–70) to design a series of imposing town houses. An especially somber reminder adorns 19 quai de Bourbon: “Here lived Camille Claudel, sculptor, from 1899 to 1913. Then ended her brave career as an artist and began her long night of internment.” Rodin’s muse, she was committed by her family to an insane asylum, where she was forbidden to practice her art. Other than some elegant facades and the island’s highly picturesque quays along the Seine, there are no cultural hot spots here, just a few streets that may make you think you’ve stumbled into a village, albeit an unusually tony one. Small hotels, restaurants, art galleries, and shops selling everything from cheese to pâté to silk scarves along the main drag, Rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile. | Station: Pont-Marie.

Musée National du Moyen-Age (National Museum of the Middle Ages, nicknamed the Musée Cluny).

Built on the ruins of Lutecia’s Roman Baths, the Hôtel de Cluny has been a museum since medievalist Alexandre Du Sommerard established his collection here in 1844. The over-the-top mansion was a choice location for such a collection; the 15th-century building was created for the abbot of Cluny, leader of the most powerful monastery in France. Symbols of the abbot’s power literally surround the building, from the crenellated walls that proclaimed his independence from the king, to the carved Burgundian grapes, symbolizing his valuable vineyards, twining up the entrance. The scallop shells Coquilles-Saint-Jacques covering the facade are a symbol of religious pilgrimage; the well-traveled pilgrimage route to Spain, Rue St-Jacques, once ran just around the corner. The highlight of the collection is the world-famous Dame à la Licorne (Lady and the Unicorn) tapestry series, woven in the 15th or 16th century, probably in Belgium. The tapestries are an allegorical representation of the five senses. You can also visit the remnants of the city’s Roman baths—hot (caldarium) and cold (frigidarium), the latter containing the Boatmen’s Pillar, Paris’s oldest sculpture. A charming garden is laid out in the medieval style, using the flora depicted in the unicorn tapestries. | 6 pl. Paul-Painlevé, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–53–73–78–00 | www.musee-moyenage.fr | €8 (includes English audio guide), free 1st Sun. of month | Wed.–Mon. 9:15–5:45 | Station: Cluny–La Sorbonne.

Fodor’s Choice | Rue Mouffetard.

This winding cobblestone street is one of Paris’s oldest—it was once a Roman road leading south from Lutecia (the Roman name for Paris) to Italy. The upper half of the street is dotted with restaurants that can get rather touristy; the lower half is home to a lively market, open Tuesday through Sunday, when couples are inspired to dance in the street to old Paris accordion tunes. The highlight of le Mouffe is the stretch in between, where, as your nose will tell you, the shops are literally spilling into the street with luscious offerings such as roasting chickens and potatoes, rustic saucisson, pâtés, and pungent cheeses, especially at Androuët (No. 134). You can find everything you’ll need for a picnic as well as gifts to bring home to your favorite foodie. If you’re here in the morning, Le Mouffetard Café (No. 116) is a good place to stop for breakfast (for about €8). For one of the best baguettes in Paris detour to the nearby Boulanger de Monge, which includes a scrumptious selection of organic offerings, at 123 rue Monge. Note that most of the shops are closed on Monday.

QUICK BITES: Cafés all over sell this haute couture brand of ice cream, but the headquarters of Berthillon (31 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, Ile St-Louis | 75004 | 01–43–54–31–61) is the place to come for this amazing treat. It features more than 30 flavors that change with the seasons, including scrumptious chocolat au nougat and mouth-puckering cassis (black currant). Expect to wait in line. The shop and adjacent tea salon is open Wednesday to Sunday 10–8 but closed during the peak summer season, from July 20 to September 1.

Also popping up all over Paris—there were 28 outlets at this writing, including the popular spot on Ile St-Louis (47 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, Ile St-Louis | 75004 | 01–44–07–48–08) —and winning converts faster than you can finish a double scoop, is the Amorino chain of gelaterias. Popular flavors include rich Bacio (dark chocolate and hazelnuts) and spécialités such as amaretto laced with crunchy biscuits and almonds. The shop is open every day, noon to midnight.

WORTH NOTING ON THE ILE ST-LOUIS AND THE LATIN QUARTER

La Sorbonne.

You can’t get into Paris’s most famous university without a student ID, although you can try to talk your way past a friendly guard. If you succeed, enter on Rue Victor Cousin, cross the cobbled courtyard where students have gathered for nine centuries, and peek into the muraled lecture halls. Today, La Sorbonne remains the heart and soul of the Quartier Latin, though it is also known as Paris IV, one of several campuses that make up the public Université de Paris. | 1 rue Victor Cousin, Quartier Latin | 75005 | Station: Cluny–La Sorbonne.

Panthéon.

Rome has St. Peter’s, London has St. Paul’s, and Paris has the Panthéon, whose enormous dome dominates the Rive Gauche. Built as a church, it has long been the resting place of a virtual who’s who of France’s cultural and political elite, including Voltaire, Zola, Dumas, Victor Hugo, Rousseau, and Marie Curie. Begun in 1764, the building was almost complete when the French Revolution erupted. By then, architect Jacques-German Soufflot had died, supposedly from worrying that the dome would collapse. He needn’t have fretted: The dome is so perfect that Foucault used this space to test his famous pendulum to prove the rotation of the earth. The best view is had from outside, however, as the vast neoclassical interior looks more like an abandoned wine cellar than a hallowed burial ground. It’s entirely empty except for the 19th-century murals lining the walls and a model of Foucault’s pendulum hanging from the center of the dome. The famous residents are in the crypt. There is little info in English—and none on the people buried here, so if you’re a history buff, do your homework before you come. | Pl. du Panthéon, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–44–32–18–00 | pantheon.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/ | €8 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–6:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–6 | Station: Cardinal Lemoine; RER: Luxembourg.

FROM ORSAY TO ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS

If you had to choose the most classically Parisien neighborhood in Paris, this would be it. St-Germain-des-Prés has it all: genteel blocks lined with upscale art galleries, storied cafés, designer boutiques, and a fine selection of museums. Cast your eyes upward after dark and you may spy a frescoed ceiling in a tony apartment. These historic streets can get quite crowded, so mind your elbows and plunge in.

This quartier is named for the oldest church in Paris, St-Germain-des-Prés, and it’s become a prized address for Parisians and expats alike. Despite its pristine facade, though, this wasn’t always silver-spoon territory. Claude Monet and Auguste Renoir shared a cramped studio at 20 rue Visconti, and the young Picasso barely eked out an existence in a room on the Rue de Seine. By the 1950s St-Germain bars bopped with jazz, and the likes of Albert Camus, Jean-Paul Sartre, and Simone de Beauvoir puffed away on Gaulois while discussing the meaninglessness of existence at Café Flore. At the southern end of this district is the city’s poshest park, the Jardin du Luxembourg, which is also home to the Musée du Luxembourg. This small museum plays host to excellent temporary exhibitions. The Musée Delacroix, in lovely Place Furstenburg, is home to a small collection of the Romantic master’s works. Not far away is the stately Église St-Sulpice, where you can see two impressive Delacroix frescoes.

Nearby in the 7e arrondissement, the star attraction is the Musée d’Orsay, home to a world-class collection of Impressionist paintings in a converted Belle Époque rail station on the Seine. It’s famous for having some of Paris’s longest lines, so a visit to d’Orsay should be planned with care. Farther along the river, the 18th-century Palais Bourbon—now home to the National Assembly—sets the tone for the 7e arrondissement. This is Edith Wharton territory, where aristocrats live in gorgeous, sprawling, apartments or maisons particulières (very private town houses). Embassies—and the Hôtel Matignon, residence of the French prime minister—line the surrounding streets, overshadowed by the Hôtel des Invalides, whose gold-leaf dome climbs heavenward above the regal tomb of Napoléon. The Rodin Museum—set in a gorgeous 18th-century mansion—is only a short walk away. Less well-known is sculptor Aristide Maillol, whose impressive private collection is housed nearby in the Musée Maillol.

TOP ATTRACTIONS FROM ORSAY TO ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS

Eglise St-Germain-des-Prés.

Paris’s oldest church was built to shelter a simple shard of wood, said to be a relic of Jesus’ cross brought back from Spain in AD 542. Vikings came down the Seine and sacked the church, and Revolutionaries used it to store gunpowder, yet the elegant building has defied history’s abuses: its 11th-century Romanesque tower continues to be the central symbol of the neighborhood. The colorful 19th-century frescoes in the nave are by Hippolyte Flandrin, a pupil of the classical master Ingres. The church stages superb organ concerts and recitals. Step inside for spiritual nourishment, or pause in the square to people-watch—there’s usually a street musician tucked against the church wall, out of the wind. | Pl. St-Germain-des-Prés, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | Daily 8–7:30 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.

QUICK BITES: Les Deux Magots, at 6 place St-Germain-des-Prés, and the neighboring Café de Flore, at 172 boulevard St-Germain, have been duking it out on this bustling corner in St-Germain for more than a century. Les Deux Magots, the snootier of the two, is named for the two Chinese figurines, or magots, inside, and has hosted the likes of Oscar Wilde, Hemingway, James Joyce, and Richard Wright. Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone du Beauvoir frequented both establishments, though they are claimed by the Flore. The two cafés remain packed, though these days you’re more likely to rub shoulders with tourists than with philosophers. Still, if you’re in search of that certain je ne sais quoi of the Rive Gauche, you can do no better than to station yourself at one of the sidewalk tables—or at a window table on a wintry day—to watch the passing parade. Stick to a croissant and an overpriced coffee or an early-evening apéritif; the food is expensive and nothing special.

Hôtel des Invalides.

Les Invalides, as this Baroque complex is known, is the eternal home of Napoléon Bonaparte (1769–1821), or more specifically, the little dictator’s tomb, which lies under the towering golden dome. Louis XIV ordered this complex built in 1670 to house disabled soldiers, and at one time 4,000 military men lived here. Today, a portion of it remains a veterans’ residence and hospital. There’s also the Musée de l’Armée, an exhaustive collection of military artifacts from antique armor to weapons. If you see only one sight here, make it the Église du Dome at the back of the complex. Napoléon’s tomb was moved here in 1840 from the island of Saint Helena, where the emperor died in forced exile. Napoléon’s body is protected by a series of no fewer than six coffins, one inside the next (sort of like a Russian nesting doll), which is then encased in a sarcophagus of red quartzite. The bombastic tribute is ringed by statues symbolizing Napoléon’s campaigns of conquest. Also on display are the emperor’s trademark gray frock coat and huge bicorne hat. For the 200th anniversary of the French Revolution, in 1989, the dome was regilded using more than half a million gold leaves, or more than 20 pounds of gold. Renovations of the church and the museum are ongoing, so parts of it may be closed. | Pl. des Invalides, Tour Eiffel | 75007 | 01–44–42–38–77 | www.invalides.org | €9 | Eglise du Dôme and museums Apr.–Sept., daily 10–6; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–5; closed 1st Mon. of every month | Station: La Tour-Maubourg/Invalides.

Jardin du Luxembourg (Luxembourg Gardens).

Immortalized in countless paintings, the Luxembourg Gardens possess all that is unique and befuddling about Parisian parks: swarms of pigeons, cookie-cutter trees, ironed-and-pressed dirt walkways, and immaculate lawns meant for admiring, not touching. The tree- and bench-lined paths offer a reprieve from the incessant bustle of the Quartier Latin, as well as an opportunity to discover the dotty old women and smooching university students who once found their way into Doisneau photographs. The park’s northern boundary is dominated by the Palais du Luxembourg, now the Senate. A sweet attraction is the Théâtre des Marionnettes where, on weekends at 11 and 3:15 and on Wednesday at 3:15 (hours may vary), you can catch a classic puppet show for a small charge. Kids will also love the merry-go-round, swings, pony rides, and toy sailboats for rent that ply the lake. Marie de Medici, widow of Henry IV, ordered the palace built in the style of the Florentine Medici home, the Palazzo Pitti. The Musée du Luxembourg (01–44–32–18–00 www.museeduluxembourg.fr), which is part of the palace, plays host to prestigious (and crowded) temporary exhibitions. | Bordered by Bd. St-Michel and Rues de Vaugirard, de Médicis, Guynemer, and Auguste-Comte, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | Free | Daily until dusk | Station: Odéon; RER: Luxembourg.

Fodor’s Choice | Musée d’Orsay.

In a spectacularly converted Belle Époque train station, the Orsay Museum—devoted to the arts (mainly French) spanning the period 1848–1914—is one of the city’s most popular, thanks to the presence of the world’s greatest collection of Impressionist and Postimpressionist paintings. Here you can find Manet’s Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (Lunch on the Grass), the painting that scandalized Paris in 1863 when it was shown at the Salon des Refusés, an exhibit organized by artists refused permission to show their work at the Academy’s official annual salon, as well as the artist’s provocative nude, Olympia. There’s a dazzling rainbow of masterpieces by Renoir (including his beloved Le Moulin de la Galette), Sisley, Pissarro, and Monet. The Postimpressionists—Cézanne, Van Gogh, Gauguin, and Toulouse-Lautrec—are on the top floor. On the ground floor you can find the work of Manet, the powerful realism of Courbet, and the delicate nuances of Degas. If you prefer more academic paintings, look for Puvis de Chavannes’s larger-than-life classical canvases. And if you’re excited by more modern developments, look for the early-20th-century Fauves (meaning “wild beasts,” the name given them by an outraged critic in 1905)—particularly Matisse, Derain, and Vlaminck.

The museum is arranged on three floors. Once past the ticket booths (get your tickets in advance through the Web site to avoid the lines), you can pick up an English-language audio guide along with a free color-coded map of the museum. Then step down the stairs into the sculpture hall. Here the vastness of the space complements a ravishing collection of French sculpture from 1840 to 1875. | 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75007 | 01–40–49–48–14 | www.musee-orsay.fr | €9.50, €7 after 4:15 except Thurs. after 6; free 1st Sun. of every month | Tues.–Sun., 9:30–6, Thurs. 9:30 AM–9:45 PM | Station: Solférino; RER: Musée d’Orsay.

QUICK BITES: If those Déjeuner sur l’Herbe paintings make you think about lunch, stop at the middle floor’s Musée d’Orsay Restaurant (01–45–49–47–03) in the former train station’s sumptuous dining room. Train food, however, this is not: an elegant lunch is available 11:30 to 2:30, high tea from 3:30 to 5:40 (except on Thursday, when dinner is served instead, from 7 to 9:30 PM).For a simpler snack anytime, visit the top-floor Café des Hauteurs and drink in its panoramic view across the Seine toward Montmartre.

Musée Rodin.

Auguste Rodin (1840–1917) briefly made his home and studio in the Hôtel Biron, a grand 18th-century hôtel particulier (private mansion) that now houses the museum dedicated to his work. He died rich and famous, but many of the sculptures that earned him his place in history were originally greeted with contempt by a public unprepared for his powerful brand of sexuality and raw physicality. If you’re pressed for time, buy a ticket (€1) for the gardens only, where most of Rodin’s well-known sculptures are found, such as The Thinker and The Gates of Hell, inspired by the monumental bronze doors of Italian Renaissance churches. The museum’s interior, though showing its age, still serves as an elegantly creaky setting for two floors of Rodin’s work. There’s also a room of impressive works by Camille Claudel (1864–1943), Rodin’s student and longtime mistress. A remarkable sculptor in her own right, her torturous relationship with Rodin eventually drove her out of his studio—and out of her mind. In 1913 she was packed off to an asylum, where she remained until her death. | 79 rue de Varenne, Invalides or Eiffel Tower | 75007 | 01–44–18–61–10 | www.musee-rodin.fr | Station: €6, €1 gardens only | Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–5:45; Nov.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–4:45 | Station: Varenne.

WORTH NOTING FROM ORSAY TO ST-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS

Fodor’s Choice | Cour du Commerce St-André.

Like an 18th-century engraving come to life, this charming street arcade is perhaps the prettiest nook of the Left Bank. A remnant of ancien Paris with its enormous uneven cobblestones and famed for its rabble-rousing inhabitants—journalist Jean-Paul Marat ran the Revolutionary newspaper L’Ami du Peuple, at No. 8, and the agitator Georges Danton lived at No. 20—it is also home to Le Procope, Paris’s oldest café (now a very fancy restaurant). This passageway also contains a turret from the 12th-century wall of Philippe-Auguste (visible through the windows of the Catalogne tourist office). Just pass the turret is a gate leading to Paris’s most beautiful cul-de-sac: the 17th-century Cour de Rohan courtyard—if the gate is open you’ll recognize the setting used for Chez Mamita in Vincente Minelli’s Gigi film. | Linking Bd. St-Germain and Rue St-André-des-Arts, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | Station: Odéon.

Musée Delacroix.

The final home of artist Eugène Delacroix (1798–1863) contains only a small collection of his sketches and drawings, but you can see the studio he had built in the large and lovely garden at the back to work on the frescoes he created for St-Sulpice Church, where they remain on display today. The museum also plays host to temporary exhibitions, such as Delacroix’s experiments with photography. France’s foremost Romantic painter had the good luck to live on Place Furstenberg, one of the smallest, most romantic squares in Paris, which is worth a visit in itself. | 6 rue Furstenberg, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–44–41–86–50 | www.musee-delacroix.fr | €5 | Wed.–Mon. 9:30–5 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.

MONTMARTRE

Montmartre has become almost too charming for its own good. Yes, it feels like a village (if you can see through the crowds); yes, there are working artists here (though far fewer than there used to be); and, yes, the best view of Paris is yours for free from the top of the hill (if there’s no haze). That’s why on any weekend day, year-round, you can find hordes of visitors crowding these cobbled alleys, scaling the staircases that pass for streets, and queuing to see Sacré-Coeur, the “sculpted cloud,” at the summit.

If you’re lucky enough to have a little corner of Montmartre to yourself, you’ll understand why locals love it so. Come on a weekday, or in the morning or later in the evening. Stroll around Place des Abbesses, where the rustic houses and narrow streets escaped the heavy hand of urban planner Baron Haussmann. Until 1860, the area was in fact a separate village, dotted with windmills. Today, there are only two windmills left as well as one quaint vineyard; you cannot visit the vineyard. Always a draw for bohemians and artists, many of whom had studios at Bateau-Lavoir and Musée de Montmartre, resident painters have included Géricault, Renoir, Suzanne Valadon, Picasso, Van Gogh, and of course Henri Toulouse-Lautrec, whose iconic paintings of the cancan dancers at the Moulin Rouge are now souvenir-shop fixtures from Place du Tertre to the Tour Eiffel. You can still see shows at the Moulin Rouge and the pocket-size cabaret Lapin Agile, though much of the entertainment here is on the seedier side—the area around Pigalle is the city’s largest red-light district. The quartier is a favorite of filmmakers, and visitors still seek out Café des Deux Moulins (15 rue Lepic), the real-life café where Audrey Tautou worked in 2001’s Amélie. Movie biz roots run deep here—the blockbuster Moulin Rouge took its inspiration from here.

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN MONTMARTRE

Fodor’s Choice | Au Lapin Agile.

This authentic survivor from the 19th century considers itself the doyen of cabarets. Founded in 1860, it still inhabits a modest house, once a favorite subject of painter Maurice Utrillo. It became the home-away-from-home for Braque, Modigliani, Apollinaire, and Picasso—who once paid for a meal with one of his paintings, then promptly exited and painted another that he named after this place (it was purchased in 1989 for a record $40.7 million and later bequeathed to New York’s Metropolitan Museum). There are no topless dancers—this is a genuine French cabaret with songs, poetry, and humor in a publike setting. | 22 rue des Saules, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–46–06–85–87 reservations | www.au-lapin-agile.com | €24 (includes first drink) | Tues.–Sun. 9 PM–2 AM | Station: Lamarck-Caulaincourt.

Moulin de la Galette.

Of the 14 windmills (moulins) that used to sit atop this hill, only two remain. Known collectively as Moulin de la Galette, the more storied is known as Le Blute-fin: it’s on a leafy hillock across from 88 rue Lepic. In the late 1800s there was a dance hall on the site, famously painted by Renoir (you can see the painting in the Musée d’Orsay). Unfortunately, the windmill is on private land and can’t be visited. Just down the street is the other moulin, Le Radet, perched atop a well-regarded restaurant (called Le Moulin de la Galette) at 83 rue Lepic. | Le Blute-fin, corner of Rue Lepic and Rue Tholozé, Montmartre | 75018 | Station: Abbesses.

Place des Abbesses.

This triangular square is typical of the countrified style that has made Montmartre famous. Now a hub for shopping and people-watching, the place is surrounded by hip boutiques, sidewalk cafés, and shabby-chic restaurants—a prime habitat for the young, neo-bohemian crowd and a sprinkling of expats. Trendy streets like Rue Houdon and Rue des Martyrs have attracted small designers, and some shops are open on Sunday afternoon. The entrance to the Abbesses métro station, designed by the great Hector Guimard as a curving, sensuous mass of delicate iron, is one of only two original Art Nouveau métro canopies left in Paris. | Station: Abbesses.

QUICK BITES: There are few attractive food options around ultra-touristy Sacré-Coeur, but Le Botak is where the locals go (1 rue Paul Albert, Montmartre | 01–46–06–98–30 | Station: Anvers). Tucked on the eastern side of the basilica, this little café with outdoor tables in leafy Square Louise Marie serves a small, ever-changing menu of French home cooking like saumon au pistou (salmon in pesto) and poulet botak, roasted chicken with garlic and mashed potatoes (about €18 for two courses). Or come for a late-afternoon apéritif.

Sacré-Coeur.

It’s hard to not feel as though you’re climbing up to heaven when you visit Sacré-Coeur, the white castle in the sky, perched atop Montmartre. The French government began building this church in 1873 as a symbol of the return of self-confidence after the devastating years of the Commune and Franco-Prussian War. Critics, however, dismissed its mix of Romanesque and Byzantine architectural styles as gaudy. Construction lasted until World War I, and the church was consecrated in 1919. Many visitors come to Sacré-Coeur to admire the superlative view from the top of the 271-foot-high dome, the second-highest point in Paris after the Tour Eiffel. But don’t miss spending some time inside the basilica, noted for its massive golden mosaics set high above the choir depicting Christ with a golden heart and outstretched arms. The stained-glass windows, which were installed in 1922, were destroyed by a bombing during World War II (there were miraculously no deaths), and later rebuilt in 1946. | Pl. du Parvis-du-Sacré-Coeur, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–53–41–89–00 | Free, dome €5 | Basilica daily 6 AM–11 PM; dome and crypt Oct.–Mar., daily 9–6; Apr.–Sept., daily 9–7 | Station: Anvers plus funicular.

WORTH NOTING IN MONTMARTRE

Bateau-Lavoir (Boat Wash House).

The birthplace of Cubism isn’t open to the public, but a display in the front window details this unimposing building’s rich history. Montmartre poet Max Jacob coined the name for the original building here, which reminded him of the laundry boats that used to float in the Seine, and he joked that the warren of paint-splattered artists’ studios needed a good hosing down (wishful thinking, since the building had only one water tap). It was in the original Bateau-Lavoir that, early in the 20th century, Pablo Picasso, Georges Braque, and Juan Gris made their first bold stabs at Cubism, and Picasso painted the groundbreaking Les Demoiselles d’Avignon here in 1906–07. All but the facade was rebuilt after a fire in 1970. Like the original building, the Bateau houses artists and their studios. | 13 pl. Emile-Goudeau, Montmartre | 75018 | Station: Abbesses.

Espace Salvador-Dalí (Dalí Center).

One of several museums dedicated to the Surrealist master, the collection in this black-walled exhibition space includes about 300 works, mostly etchings and lithographs (some for sale). The two dozen sculptures include several versions of Dalí’s melting bronze clock and variations on the Venus de Milo. A multimedia pioneer ahead of his time, there are videos with Dalí’s voice, and temporary exhibits have included the mustached man’s foray into holograms. | 11 rue Poulbot, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–42–64–40–10 | www.daliparis.com | €10 | Daily 10–6 | Station: Abbesses.

Moulin Rouge (Red Windmill).

When the world-famous cabaret opened in 1889, aristocrats, professionals, and the working classes all flocked to see the scandalous performers. The cancan was considerably raunchier in Toulouse-Lautrec’s day—girls used to kick off their knickers—than it is today. (See the Nightlife section.) There’s not much to see from the outside, but a decent gift shop around the corner (11 rue Lepic) sells official merchandise, from jewelry to sculpture, by reputable French makers. | 82 bd. de Clichy, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–53–09–82–82 | www.moulin-rouge.fr | Station: Blanche.

Musée de Montmartre (Montmartre Museum).

In its turn-of-the-20th-century heyday, the building—now home to Montmartre’s historical museum—was a studio block for painters, writers, and cabaret artists. Foremost among them was Renoir—he painted the Moulin de la Galette, an archetypal scene of sun-drenched revelers, while he lived here—and Maurice Utrillo, Montmartre painter par excellence. The museum recaps the area’s history; the strong points are the many Toulouse-Lautrec posters and original Eric Satie scores. Temporary exhibitions focus on famous residents like Jean Marais, the late, dashing actor who dabbled in painting and sculpture. Check out the view from the second floor of the tiny vineyard—the only one in Paris—on Rue des Saules. There’s some basic info available in English. | 12 rue Cortot, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–49–25–89–37 | www.museedemontmartre.fr | €8 | Wed.–Sun. 11–6 | Station: Lamarck Caulaincourt.

Place du Tertre.

This once-charming square, now generally teems with crowds of tourists and hordes of street artists clamoring to do your portrait. The ubiquitous souvenir shops were once home to artists who for decades called this tumbling square (tertre means “hillock”) home. For an easy descent from the top of the hill, walk to the back of the square and find Rue du Calvaire, which is actually a picturesque staircase. | Station: Abbesses.

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Prices and Reservations | 1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles) | 2[e] Arrondissement (Bourse/Les Halles) | 3[e] Arrondissement (Beaubourg/Marais) | 4[e] Arrondissement (Marais/Ile St-Louis) | 5[e] Arrondissement (Latin Quarter) | 6[e] Arrondissement (St-Germain) | 7[e] Arrondissement (Tour Eiffel/Invalides) | 8[e] Arrondissement (Champs-Élysées) | 9[e] Arrondissement (Opéra) | 11[e] Arrondissement (Bastille) | 14[e] Arrondissement (Montparnasse) | 16[e] Arrondissement (Arc de Triomphe/Le Bois) | 17[e] Arrondissement (Monceau/Clichy) | 18[e] Arrondissement (Montmartre) | Cafés and Salons de Thé

A new wave of culinary confidence is running through one of the world’s great food cities and spilling over both banks of the Seine. Whether cooking up grand-mère’s roast chicken and riz au lait or placing a whimsical hat of cotton candy atop wild-strawberry-and-rose ice cream, Paris chefs are breaking free from the tyranny of tradition and following their passions.

But self-expression is not the only driving force behind the changes. A traditional high-end restaurant can be prohibitively expensive to operate. As a result, more casual bistros and cafés have become attractive businesses for even top chefs, making the cooking of geniuses such as Joël Robuchon and Pierre Gagnaire more accessible to all (even if these star chefs rarely cook in their lower-priced restaurants).

Like the chefs themselves, Paris diners are breaking away—albeit cautiously—from tradition. New restaurants and sandwich bars are multiplying rapidly. And because Parisians are more widely traveled than in the past, many ethnic restaurants are making fewer concessions to French tastes, resulting in far better food.

PRICES AND RESERVATIONS

By French law, prices must include tax and tip (service compris or prix nets), but pocket change left on the table in basic places, or an additional 5% in better restaurants, is always appreciated. Beware of bills stamped “Service Not Included” in English or restaurants slyly using American-style credit-card slips, hoping that you’ll be confused and add the habitual 15% tip. In neither case should you tip beyond the guidelines suggested above.

Here are a few key sentences for booking, if needed: “Bonjour madame/monsieur (ma’am, sir; say bonsoir after 6 PM). Je voudrais faire une reservation pour X (1, un/une; 2, deux; 4, quatre; 6, six) personnes pour le diner (dinner)/le déjeuner (lunch) aujourd’hui à X heu res (today at X o’clock)/demain à X heures (tomorrow at X o’clock)/lundi (Monday), mardi (Tuesday), mercredi (Wednesday), jeudi (Thursday), vendredi (Friday), samedi (Saturday), dimanche (Sunday) à X heures (at X time). Le nom est (your own name). Merci. Au revoir.” Many of these restaurants have their own Web sites and you can e-mail them for reservations instead of making a telephone call—readers report that they get fast and courteous replies. Note that reservations are unnecessary for brasserie and café meals at odd hours.

WHAT IT COSTS In Euros

AT DINNER

¢

under €13

$

€13–€17

$$

€18–€24

$$$

€25–€32

$$$$

over €32

Prices are per person for a main course at dinner, including tax (5.5%) and service; note that if a restaurant offers only prix-fixe (set-price) meals, it has been given the price category that reflects the full prix-fixe price.

1ER ARRONDISSEMENT (LOUVRE/LES HALLES)

La Ferme Opéra.

¢ | CAFÉ | If your arm aches from flagging down café waiters, take a break in this bright, friendly, self-service restaurant near the Louvre that specializes in produce from the Ile-de-France region (around Paris). Inventive salads, sandwiches, and pastas are fresh and delicious, and on the sweeter side, you can find wholesome fruit crumbles, tarts, and cheesecakes. They serve whole-wheat scones and freshly squeezed juices for breakfast, from 8 AM on weekdays and 9 AM on Saturday; breakfast is served from 10 AM on Sunday, when there is also brunch from 11 AM to 4 PM. There’s free Wi-Fi access in the barnlike dining room. | 55 rue St-Roch, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75001 | 01–40–20–12–12 | MC, V | Station: Pyramides

Fodor’s Choice | L’Ardoise.

$$ | BISTRO | This minuscule storefront, decorated with enlargements of old sepia postcards of Paris, is a model of the kind of contemporary bistros making waves in Paris. Chef Pierre Jay’s first-rate three-course dinner menu for €34 tempts with such original dishes as mushroom and foie gras ravioli with smoked duck; farmer’s pork with porcini mushrooms; and red mullet with creole sauce (you can also order à la carte, but it’s less of a bargain). Just as enticing are the desserts, such as a superbfeuillantine au citron—caramelized pastry leaves filled with lemon cream and lemon slices—and a boozy baba au rhum. With friendly waiters and a small but well-chosen wine list, L’Ardoise would be perfect if it weren’t often crowded and noisy. | 28 rue du Mont Thabor, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–42–96–28–18 | www.lardoise-paris.com | MC, V | Closed Mon. and Aug. No lunch Sun. | Station: Concorde

Fodor’s Choice | Le Grand Véfour.

$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | Victor Hugo could stride in and still recognize this place—in his day, as now, a contender for the title of most beautiful restaurant in Paris. Originally built in 1784, it has welcomed everyone from Napoléon to Colette to Jean Cocteau. The mirrored ceiling and early-19th-century glass paintings of goddesses and muses create an air of restrained seduction. Foodies as well as the fashionable gather here to enjoy chef Guy Martin’s unique blend of sophistication and rusticity, as seen in dishes such as frogs’ legs with sorrel sauce, and oxtail parmentier (a kind of shepherd’s pie) with truffles. There’s an outstanding cheese trolley and for dessert, try the house specialty, palet aux noisettes (meringue cake with chocolate mousse, hazelnuts, and salted caramel ice cream). Prices are as extravagant—a single main course averages €100—as the decor, but there’s an €88 lunch menu. | 17 rue de Beaujolais, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–42–96–56–27 | www.grand-vefour.com | Reservations essential ; jacket and tie | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed weekends, Aug., 1 wk in Apr., and 1 wk at Christmas. No dinner Fri. | Station: Palais-Royal

Pinxo.

$$–$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | The word pinxo means “to pinch” in Basque, and this is how the food in this fashionable hotel restaurant is meant to be eaten—often with your fingers, and off your dining companion’s plate (each dish is served in three portions for sharing). Freed from the tyranny of the entrée-plat-dessert cycle, you can nibble your way through such minidishes as marinated herring with Granny Smith apple and horseradish, and squid cooked à la plancha (on a grill) with ginger and chili peppers. Alain Dutournier, who also runs the more formal Le Carré des Feuillants and Au Trou Gascon, drew on his southwestern roots to create this welcoming modern spot; granted, some dishes work better than others, but it’s hard not to love a place that serves fried Camembert croquettes with celery sticks as a cheese course. | 9 rue d’Alge, or through Hôtel Plaza Paris Vendôme, at 4 rue du Mont Thabor, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–40–20–72–00 | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed 2 wks in Aug.

Restaurant du Palais-Royal.

$$$ | BISTRO | This stylish modern bistro decorated in jewel tones serves food to match its stunning location under the arcades of the Palais-Royal, facing its magnificent gardens. Sole, scallops, and risotto—including a dramatic black squid-ink and lobster or an all-green vegetarian version—are beautifully prepared, but juicy beef fillet with pommes Pont Neuf (thick-cut frites) is also a favorite of expense-account lunchers. Finish with an airy mille-feuille that changes with the seasons—berries in summer, chestnuts in winter—or a decadent baba doused with rum from Guadeloupe. Book in advance, especially in summer, when the terrace tables are hotly sought after. | Jardins du Palais-Royal, 110 Galerie Valois, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–40–20–00–27 | www.restaurantdupalaisroyal.com | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. | Station: Palais-Royal

Willi’s Wine Bar.

$–$$ | MODERN FRENCH | More a restaurant than a wine bar, this British-owned spot is a stylish haunt for Parisian and visiting gourmands who might stop in for a glass of wine at the oak bar or settle into the wood-beam dining room. The selection of reinvented classic dishes changes daily and might include roast cod with artichokes and asparagus in spring, venison in wine sauce with roast pears and celery-root chips in fall, and mango candied with orange and served with vanilla cream in winter. Chef François Yon has been in the kitchen for 15 years, ensuring a consistency that isn’t always reflected in the service. The restaurant is prix-fixe only but at the bar you order appetizers. The list of about 250 wines reflects co-owner Mark Williamson’s passion for the Rhône Valley and Spanish sherries. | 13 rue des Petits-Champs, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–42–61–05–09 | www.williswinebar.com | MC, V | Closed Sun. | Station: Bourse

Zen.

¢–$ | JAPANESE | There is no shortage of Japanese restaurants in this area around the Louvre, but this recent addition is a cut above much of the competition. The white-and-lime-green space feels refreshingly bright and modern, and you can perch at one of the curvy counters or settle in at a table. The menu has something for every taste, from warming ramen soups (part of a €9.90 lunch menu that includes five pork dumplings) to sushi and sashimi prepared with particular care. For a change, try the donburi, a bowl of rice topped with meat or fish, or Japanese curry with breaded pork or shrimp. A sign of the chef’s pride in his food is that he offers cooking classes some Sundays (in French). | 8 rue de l’Échelle, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–42–61–93–99 | MC, | www.restaurant-zen.fr V | Closed 10 days in mid-Aug. | Station: Pyramides or Palais Royal

2E ARRONDISSEMENT (BOURSE/LES HALLES)

Fodor’s Choice | Aux Lyonnais.

$$–$$$ | BISTRO | With a passion for the old-fashioned bistro, Alain Ducasse has resurrected this 1890s gem by appointing a terrific young chef to oversee the short, frequently changing, and reliably delicious menu of Lyonnais specialties. Dandelion salad with crisp potatoes, bacon, and silky poached egg; watercress soup poured over parsleyed frogs’ legs; and fluffy quenelles de brochet (pike-perch dumplings) show he is no bistro dilettante. The decor hews to tradition, too, with a zinc bar, an antique coffee machine, and original turn-of-the-20th-century woodwork. There is a no-choice lunch menu for €30, but the temptation is strong to splurge on the more luxurious à la carte dishes. | 32 rue St-Marc, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75002 | 01–42–96–65–04 | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., and 2 wks in Aug. No lunch Sat. | Station: Bourse

Chez Georges.

$$$ | BISTRO | If you were to ask Parisian bankers, aristocrats, or antiques dealers to name their favorite bistro for a three-hour weekday lunch, many would choose Georges. The traditional fare, described in authentically indecipherable handwriting, is good—chicken-liver terrine, curly endive salad with bacon and a poached egg, steak with béarnaise—and the atmosphere is better, compensating for the rather steep prices. In the dining room, a white-clothed stretch of tables lines the mirrored walls and attentive waiters sweep efficiently up and down. Order one of the wines indicated in colored ink on the menu and you can drink as much or as little of it as you want (and be charged accordingly); there’s also another wine list with grander bottles. | 1 rue du Mail, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–42–60–07–11 | AE, MC, V | Closed weekends, Aug., 1 wk at Christmas, and 1 wk in Feb. | Station: Sentier

Fodor’s Choice | Frenchie.

$$ | BISTRO | Grégory Marchand worked in New York and with Jamie Oliver in London before opening this brick-and-stone-walled bistro on a pedestrian street near Rue Montorgueil, which explains the tongue-in-cheek name. Though it hasn’t had much press, word of mouth has quickly made it one of the most packed bistros in town. Marchand owes a large part of his success to the great-value €35 three-course menu at dinner—boldly flavored dishes such as calamari gazpacho with squash blossoms, and melt-in-the-mouth braised lamb with roasted eggplant and spinach are excellent options. Desserts seem a tiny bit less stunning, but with good service and a laid-back atmosphere, this restaurant is headed for long-term success. It’s prix fixe only. | 5 rue de Nil, Les Halles | 75002 | 01–40–39–96–19 | www.frenchie-restaurant.com | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., 2 wks in Aug., 10 days at Christmas. No lunch Tues. or Sat. | Station: Sentier

Le Vaudeville.

$$$ | BRASSERIE | Part of the Flo group of historic brasseries, Le Vaudeville is filled with journalists, bankers, and locals d’un certain âge who come for the good-value assortment of prix-fixe menus (including two courses for €20.50 after 10:30 PM) and highly professional service. Shellfish, house-smoked salmon, foie gras with raisins, slow-braised lamb, and desserts such as the floating island topped with pralines are particularly enticing. Enjoy the graceful 1920s decor—almost the entire interior of this intimate dining room is done in real or faux marble—and lively dining until 1 AM daily. | 29 rue Vivienne, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75002 | 01–40–20–04–62 | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Bourse

Yam’Tcha.

$$–$$$ | FRENCH FUSION | Adeline Grattard’s little bistro has become so popular that tables are snapped up weeks ahead, which is no surprise when you learn that she worked at L’Astrance before spending time in Hong Kong, where she picked up many of her techniques. Inspired by Chinese cooking, many of her dishes rely on brilliant flavor combinations and very precise cooking. A signature dish is the roasted Challans duck with Sichuan-style eggplant: two elements that create magic together. Adeline’s husband Chi Wa acts as a tea sommelier, though alcohol is also available. It’s prix fixe only. | 4 rue Sauval, Les Halles | 75001 | 01–40–26–08–07 | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Mon. and Tues. | Station: Louvre-Rivoli or Les Halles.

3E ARRONDISSEMENT (BEAUBOURG/MARAIS)

Breizh Café.

¢ | MODERN FRENCH | Eating a crepe in Paris might seem a bit clichéd, until you venture into this modern offshoot of a creperie in Cancale, Brittany. The pale-wood, almost Japanese-style decor is refreshing, but what really makes the difference are the ingredients—farmers’ eggs, unpasteurized Gruyère, shiitake mushrooms, Valrhona chocolate, homemade caramel, and extraordinary butter from Breton dairy farmer Jean-Yves Bordier. You’ll find all the classics among thegalettes (buckwheat crepes), but it’s worth choosing something more adventurous like the cancalaise (traditionally smoked herring, potato, crème fraîche, and herring roe). You might also slurp a few Cancale oysters, a rarity in Paris, and try one of the 20 artisanal ciders on offer. |109 rue Vieille du Temple, Le Marais | 75003 |01–42–72–13–77 | MC, V | Closed Mon., Tues., and 3 wks in Aug. | Station: St-Sébastien-Froissart

Cantine Merci.

¢ | CAFÉ | Deep inside the city’s latest concept store, whose proceeds go to charities for women in India and Madagascar, lurks the perfect spot for a quick and healthy lunch between bouts of shopping. The brief menu of soups, salads, risottos, and a daily hot dish is more than slightly reminiscent of Rose Bakery—salads such as fava beans with radish and lemon wedges or melon, cherry tomato, and arugula are bright, lively, and crunchy, and you can order a freshly squeezed juice or iced tea with fresh mint to wash it all down. Delicious homey desserts might include cherry clafoutis or raspberry and pistachio crumble. | 111 blvd. Beaumarchais, Le Marais | 75003 | 01–42–77–78–92 | www.merci-merci.com | MC, V | Closed Sun. No dinner | Station: St-Sébastien-Froissart.

Chez Omar.

$$$ | NORTH AFRICAN | This is no longer the only trendy North African restaurant in town, but during fashion week you still might see top models with legs like gazelles touching up their lipstick in front of the vintage mirrors—though that doesn’t stop them from digging into huge platters of couscous with grilled skewered lamb, spicy merguez sausage, lamb shank, or chicken, washed down with robust, fruity Algerian or Moroccan wine. Proprietor Omar Guerida speaks English and is famously friendly to all. The setting is that of a beautifully faded French bistro, complete with elbow-to-elbow seating, so be prepared to partake of your neighbors’ conversations. | 47 rue de Bretagne, République | 75003 | 01–42–72–36–26 | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | No lunch Sun. | Station: Temple, République.

Le Georges.

$$–$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | One of those rooftop showstopping venues so popular in Paris, Le Georges preens atop the Centre Georges Pompidou, accessed by its own entrance to the left of the main doors. The staff is as streamlined and angular as the furniture, and at night the terrace has distinct snob appeal. Come snappily dressed or you may be relegated to something resembling a dentist’s waiting room. Part of the Costes brothers’ empire, the establishment trots out fashionable dishes such as sesame-crusted tuna and coriander-spiced beef fillet flambéed with cognac. It’s all considerably less dazzling than the view, except for the suitably decadent desserts (indulge in the Cracker’s cheesecake with yogurt sorbet). | Centre Pompidou, 6th fl.,19 rue Rambuteau, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 75003 | 01–44–78–47–99 | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Tues. | Station: Rambuteau

4E ARRONDISSEMENT (MARAIS/ILE ST-LOUIS)

Au Bourguignon du Marais.

$$–$$$ | BISTRO | The handsome, contemporary look of this Marais bistro and wine bar is the perfect backdrop for the good traditional fare and excellent Burgundies served by the glass and bottle. Unusual for Paris, food is served nonstop from noon to 11 PM. Always on the menu are Burgundian classics such as jambon persillé (ham in parsleyed aspic jelly), escargots, and bœuf Bourguignon (beef stewed in red wine). More up-to-date picks include a cèpe-mushroom velouté with poached oysters (though the fancier dishes are generally less successful). The terrace is hotly sought after in warmer months. | 52 rue François-Miron, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–48–87–15–40 | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon., 3 wks in Aug., and 2 wks in Feb. | Station: St-Paul

Benoît.

$$$–$$$$ | BISTRO | If you loved Benoît before it became the property of Alain Ducasse and Thierry de la Brosse—the pair that revived Aux Lyonnais—chances are you’ll adore it now. Without changing the vintage 1912 setting, which needed nothing more than a minor dusting, the illustrious new owners have subtly improved the menu with dishes such as marinated salmon, frogs’ legs in a morel-mushroom cream sauce, and an outstanding cassoulet served in a cast-iron pot. Hardworking young chef David Rathgeber, formerly of Aux Lyonnais, keeps the kitchen running smoothly, and the waiters are charm incarnate. It’s a splurge to be here, so go all the way and top off your meal with tarte tatin that’s caramelized to the core or a rum-doused baba. | 20 rue St-Martin, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–42–72–25–76 | AE, MC, V | Closed Aug. | Station: Châtelet

Bofinger.

$$$–$$$$ | BRASSERIE | One of the oldest, loveliest, and most popular brasseries in Paris has generally improved in recent years, so stake out one of the tables dressed in crisp white linen under the glowing Art Nouveau glass cupola and enjoy classic brasserie fare (stick to trademark dishes such as the seafood choucroute, lamb fillet, or smoked haddock with spinach, as the seasonal specials can be hit-or-miss). The prix-fixe for €31.50 includes a decent half bottle of red or white wine, and there is a generous children’s menu. | 5–7 rue de la Bastille, Bastille/Nation | 75004 | 01–42–72–87–82 | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Bastille

Cru.

$$–$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | It’s hard to imagine a raw food restaurant in a city famous for its slow-simmered dishes but, since opening in summer 2009, Cru has enjoyed instant success—the bucolic terrace in a cobbled Marais courtyard has something to do with this, as does the extensive menu’s refusal to take the raw concept to extremes: a few cooked dishes are available, such as meat or fish prepared a la plancha and root vegetable “fries.” If you decide to stick to the raw dishes, you won’t be disappointed: the “green plate,” variations on cucumber, displays the chef’s well-judged creativity, while silky veal carpaccio with preserved lemon has a lively flavor. Most of the desserts depart from the raw theme, which is not necessarily a bad thing. The restaurant doubles as a wine bar, so there are plenty of interesting bottles to choose from. | 7 rue Charlemagne, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–40–27–81–84 | www.restaurantcru.fr | MC, V | Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Aug. | Station: St-Paul.

L’As du Fallafel.

¢–$ | ISRAELI | Look no further than the fantastic falafel stands on the newly pedestrian Rue de Rosiers for some of the cheapest and tastiest meals in Paris. L’As (the Ace) is widely considered the best of the bunch, which accounts for the lunchtime line that extends into the street. A falafel sandwich costs €5 to go, €7 in the dining room, and comes heaped with grilled eggplant, cabbage, hummus, tahini, and hot sauce. The shawarma (grilled, skewered meat) sandwich, made with chicken or lamb, is also one of the finest in town. Though takeout is popular, it can be more fun (and not as messy) to eat off a plastic plate in one of the two frenzied dining rooms. Fresh lemonade is the falafel’s best match. | 34 rue des Rosiers, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–48–87–63–60 | MC, V | Closed Sat. No dinner Fri. | Station: St-Paul

Fodor’s Choice | Mon Vieil Ami.

$–$$ | MODERN FRENCH | “Modern Alsatian” might sound like an oxymoron, but once you’ve tasted the food here, you’ll understand. The updated medieval dining room—stone walls, dark-wood tables, and small glass-panel dividers—provides a stylish milieu for the inventive cooking orchestrated by star Alsatian chef Antoine Westermann, which showcases heirloom vegetables (such as yellow carrots and pink-and-white beets) from star producer Joël Thiébault. Pâté en croûte (wrapped in pastry) with a knob of foie gras is hard to resist among the starters. Long-cooked, wine-marinated venison comes with succulent accompaniments of quince, prune, celery root, and chestnuts. This is not necessarily the place for a romantic dinner since seating is a little tight, but the quality of the food never falters. Call during opening hours (11:30–2:30 and 7–11) to book, since they don’t answer the phone the rest of the time. | 69 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, Ile St-Louis | 75004 | 01–40–46–01–35 | www.mon-vieill-ami.com | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Mon., Tues., 3 wks in Jan., and 3 wks in Aug. | Station: Pont Marie

5E ARRONDISSEMENT (LATIN QUARTER)

Chez René.

$$–$$$ | BISTRO | Run by the same family for 50 years, Chez René changed owners in 2007. The new team has wisely preserved the bistro’s traditional spirit while brightening the decor and adding chic touches such as valet parking. The menu still consists mainly of Lyonnais classics, but you’ll now find some of these grouped into color-theme menus such as “red” (beet salad, coq au vin, and Quincy wine) or “yellow” (Swiss chard gratin, pike-perch in beurre blanc sauce with steamed potatoes, and Mâcon wine). The best sign of the new regime’s success is that the old regulars keep coming back, including the former owners, who live upstairs. | 14 bd. St-Germain, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–43–54–30–23 | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., Christmas wk, and Aug. No lunch Sat. | Station: Maubert-Mutualité

La Tour d’Argent.

$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | La Tour d’Argent has had a rocky time in recent years with the loss of a Michelin star, the death of famed owner Claude Terrail, but chef Stéphane Haissant has found his footing, and there’s no denying the splendor of its setting overlooking the Seine. If you don’t want to splash out on dinner, treat yourself to the three-course lunch menu for a reduced price of €65; this entitles you to succulent slices of one of the restaurant’s numbered ducks (the great duck slaughter began in 1919 and is now well past the millionth mallard, as your numbered certificate will attest). Don’t be too daunted by the vast wine list—with the aid of the sommelier you can splurge a little (about €80) and perhaps taste a rare vintage Burgundy from the extraordinary cellars, which survived World War II. | 15–17 quai de la Tournelle, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–43–54–23–31 | www.latourdargent.com | Reservations essential; jacket and tie | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug. | Station: Cardinal Lemoine.

Le Pré Verre.

$ | MODERN FRENCH | Chef Philippe Delacourcelle knows his cassia bark from his cinnamon, thanks to a long stint in Asia, and he opened this lively bistro, with its purple-gray walls and photos of jazz musicians, to showcase his unique culinary style, rejuvenating archetypal French dishes with Asian and Mediterranean spices. So popular has it proved, especially with Japanese visitors, that the restaurant opened a branch in Tokyo in late 2007. His bargain prix-fixe menus (€13.50 at lunch for a main dish, glass of wine, and coffee; €28.50 for three courses at dinner) change constantly, but his trademark spiced suckling pig with crisp cabbage is a winner, as is his rhubarb compote with gingered white-chocolate mousse. Ask for advice in selecting wine from a list that highlights small producers. | 8 rue Thénard, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–43–54–59–47 | MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., and 3 wks in Aug. | Station: Maubert-Mutualité

Fodor’s Choice | Ribouldingue.

$$$ | BISTRO | Find offal off-putting? Don’t let that stop you from trying this new bistro near the ancient St-Julien-le-Pauvre church, where offcuts take pride of place on the compulsory €27 prix-fixe. You can avoid odd animal bits completely, if you must, and still have an excellent meal—opt for dishes like marinated salmon or veal rib with fingerling potatoes—or go out on a limb with the tétine de vache (thin breaded and fried slices of cow’s udder) and groin de cochon (the tip of a pig’s snout). This adventurous menu is the brainchild of Nadège Varigny, daughter of a Lyonnais butcher (quel surpise). She runs the front of the house while chef Caroline Moncel turns out the impeccable food—veal kidney with potato gratin is a house classic and there are always three fish dishes. Don’t miss the unusual desserts, like tangy ewe’s-milk ice cream. | 10 rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–46–33–98–80 | MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., 1 wk in spring, 3 wks in Aug., and 1 wk in winter | Station: St-Michel.

6E ARRONDISSEMENT (ST-GERMAIN)

Fogòn St-Julien.

$–$$ | SPANISH | The most ambitious Spanish restaurant in Paris occupies an airy Seine-side space, avoiding tapas-bar clichés. The seasonal all-tapas menu, at €49 per person, is the most creative choice, but that would mean missing out on the paella: saffron with seafood (which could be a bit more generous), inky squid, or Valencia-style with rabbit, chicken, and vegetables. Finish up with custardy crème Catalan and a glass of muscatel. | 45 quai des Grands-Augustins, Quartier Latin | 75006 | 01–43–54–31–33 | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Mon. No dinner weekends | Station: St-Michel

Hélène Darroze.

$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | The most celebrated female chef in Paris is now cooking at the Connaught in London, but her St-Germain dining room was revamped in 2008 to create an even more exclusive setting for her sophisticated take on southwestern French food. Darroze’s intriguingly modern touch comes through in such dishes as a sublime duck foie gras confit served with an exotic-fruit chutney or a blowout of roast wild duck stuffed with foie gras and truffles. If the food, at its best, lives up to the very high prices, the service sometimes struggles to reach the same level. For a more affordable taste, try the relatively casual Salon d’Hélène downstairs, which serves dishes starting at €6.50 a plate. | 4 rue d’Assas, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–42–22–00–11 | www.helenedarroze.com | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon. | Station: Sèvres-Babylone.

Josephine Chez Dumonet.

$$$ | BISTRO | Theater types, politicos, and well-padded locals fill the moleskin banquettes of this venerable bistro, where the frosted-glass lamps and amber walls put everyone in a good light. Unlike most bistros, Josephine caters to the indecisive, since half portions allow you to graze your way through the temptingly retro menu. Try the excellent bœuf Bourguignon, roasted saddle of lamb with artichokes, top-notch steak tartare prepared table-side, or anything with truffles in season. For dessert, choose between a mille-feuille big enough to serve three and a Grand Marnier soufflé that simply refuses to sink, even with prodding. The wine list, like the food, is outstanding but expensive. | 117 rue du Cherche-Midi, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–45–48–52–40 | AE, MC, V | Closed weekends | Station: Duroc

Lapérouse.

$$$–$$$$ | BISTRO | Émile Zola, George Sand, and Victor Hugo were regulars, and the restaurant’s mirrors still bear diamond scratches from the days when mistresses didn’t take jewels at face value. All together, it’s hard not to fall in love with this 17th-century Seine-side town house whose warren of intimate, woodwork-graced salons breathes history. The latest chef, Alain Hacquard, has found the right track with a daring (for Paris) spice-infused menu: his lobster, Dublin Bay prawn, and crayfish bisque is flavored with Szechuan pepper and lemon. Game is prominent in the fall, with a selection of southwestern wines to accompany dishes like Scottish grouse. For a truly intimate meal, reserve one of the legendary private salons where anything can happen (and probably has). You can also sample the restaurant’s magic at lunch, when a bargain prix-fixe menu is served for €35–€45 in both the main dining room and the private salons. | 51 quai des Grands Augustins, Quartier Latin | 75006 | 01–43–26–68–04 | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. | Station: St-Michel

Fodor’s Choice | L’Epigramme.

$ | BISTRO | Great bistro food is not so hard to find in Paris, but only rarely does it come in such a comfortable setting. At L’Epigramme, the striped orange-and-yellow chairs are softly padded, there’s space between you and your neighbors, and a big glass pane lets in plenty of light from the courtyard. Service from Stéphane Marcouzzi’s staff is also worthy of a much more expensive restaurant. The chef has an almost magical touch with meat: try his stuffed suckling pig with turnip choucroute, or seared slices of pink lamb with root vegetables in a glossy reduced sauce. In winter, the eleborate game dish lièvre à la royale (hare stuffed with goose or duck liver and cooked in wine) sometimes makes an appearance. | 9 rue de l’Eperon, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–44–41–00–09 | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., 3 wks in Aug., and 1 wk at Christmas | Station: Odéon.

La Ferrandaise.

$$ | BISTRO | Portraits of cows adorn the stone walls of this bistro near the Luxembourg gardens, hinting at the kitchen’s penchant for meaty cooking (Ferrandaise is a breed of cattle). Still, there’s something for every taste on the market-inspired menu, which always lists three meat and three fish mains. Dill-marinated salmon with sweet mustard sauce is a typical starter, and a thick, milk-fed veal chop might come with a squash pancake and spinach. The dining room buzzes with locals who appreciate the good-value €32 prix-fixe and the brilliant bento-box-style €15 lunch menu, in which three courses are served all at once. | 8 rue de Vaugirard, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–43–26–36–36 | www.laferrandaise.com | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun. and 3 wks in Aug. No lunch Sat. | Station: Odéon, RER: Luxembourg.

Le Comptoir du Relais Saint-Germain.

$$$ | BISTRO | Run by legendary bistro chef Yves Camdeborde, this tiny Art Deco hotel restaurant is booked up several months in advance for the single dinner sitting that comprises a five-course, €48 set menu of haute-cuisine-quality food. On weekends and before 6 PM during the week a brasserie menu is served and reservations are not accepted, resulting in long lineups and brisk service. Start with charcuterie or pâté, then choose from open-face sandwiches, salads, and a handful of hot dishes such as braised beef cheek, roast tuna, and Camdeborde’s famed deboned and breaded pig’s trotter. Sidewalk tables make for prime people-watching in summer and Le Comptoir also runs a down-to-earth snack shop next door that serves crepes and sandwiches. | 9 carrefour de l’Odéon, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–44–27–07–50 | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Odéon

Ze Kitchen Galerie.

$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | William Ledeuil made his name at the popular Les Bouquinistes (a Guy Savoy baby bistro) before opening this contemporary bistro in a loftlike space. If the name isn’t exactly inspired, the cooking shows creativity and a sense of fun: from a deliberately deconstructed menu featuring raw fish, soups, pastas, and à la plancha (grilled) plates, consider the roast and confit duck with a tamarind-and-sesame condiment and foie gras, or lobster with mussels, white beans, and Thai herbs. A tireless experimenter, Ledeuil buys heirloom vegetables direct from farmers and tracks down herbs and spices in Asian supermarkets. The menu changes monthly and there are several different prix-fixe options at lunch, starting at €29. | 4 rue des Grands-Augustins, Quartier Latin | 75006 | 01–44–32–00–32 | www.zekitchengalerie.fr | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. | Station: St-Michel

7E ARRONDISSEMENT (TOUR EIFFEL/INVALIDES)

Chez les Anges.

$$$ | BISTRO | In the 1960s and ’70s, Chez les Anges served celestial Burgundian cooking; the restaurant went through several incarnations since, but now, under new owner Jacques Lacipière, who runs the popular bistro Au Bon Accueil, it has recovered the original name and spirit, with some updating. The €34 daily-changing menu from chef Hidenori Kitaguchi is a notch above bistro fare. Lacipière goes further than most in his quest for quality products, bringing back ingredients such as line-caught sole and scallops every week from the town of St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie on the Atlantic coast. | 54 bd. de la Tour-Maubourg, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75007 | 01–47–05–89–86 | AE, MC, V | Closed weekends | Station: La Tour–Maubourg

Fodor’s Choice | Hiramatsu.

$$$$ | FRENCH FUSION | In this Art Deco dining room near Trocadéro, Hajime Nakagawa continues his variations on the subtly Japanese-inspired French cuisine of restaurant namesake Hiroyuki Hiramatsu, who still sometimes works the kitchen. Luxury ingredients feature prominently in dishes such as thin slices of lamb with onion jam and thyme-and-truffle-spiked jus, or an unusual pot-au-feu of oysters with foie gras and black truffle. For dessert, a mille-feuille of caramelized apples comes with rosemary sorbet. Helpful sommeliers will guide you through the staggering wine list, with more than 1,000 different bottles to choose from. There’s no way to get away cheaply, so save it for a special occasion, when you might be tempted to order a tasting menu for €95 or €130 (lunch menus start at €48). | 52 rue de Longchamp, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75016 | 01–56–81–08–80 | www.hiramatsu.co.jp/fr | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed weekends, Aug., and 1 wk at Christmas | Station: Trocadéro.

Fodor’s Choice | Il Vino.

$$$$ | FRENCH FUSION | It might seem audacious to present hungry diners with nothing more than a wine list, but the gamble is paying off for Enrico Bernardo at his newly opened restaurant with a branch in Courcheval. Winner of the world’s best sommelier award in 2005, this charismatic Italian has left the George V to oversee a dining room where food plays second fiddle (in status, not quality). The hip decor—plum banquettes, body-hugging white chairs, a few high tables—has attracted a mostly young clientele that’s happy to play the game by ordering one of the blind, multicourse tasting menus for €75 or €100. This might bring you a white Mâcon with saffron risotto, crisp Malvasia with crabmeat and black radish, a full-bodied red from Puglia with Provençal-style lamb, sherrylikevin jaune d’Arbois with aged Comté cheese, and sweet Jurançon with berry crumble. You can also order individual wine-food combinations à la carte or pick a bottle straight from the cellar and ask for a meal to match. | 13 bd. de la Tour-Maubourg, Invalides | 75007 | 01–44–11–72–00 | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Invalides

Jules Verne.

$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | Alain Ducasse doesn’t set his sights low, so it was no real surprise when he took over this prestigious dining room on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower, and had designer Patrick Jouin give the room a neo-futuristic look in shades of brown. Sauces and pastries are prepared in a kitchen below the Champ de Mars before being whisked up the elevator to the kitchen, which is overseen by young chef Pascal Féraud. Most accessible is the €85 lunch menu (weekdays only), which brings you à la carte dishes in slightly smaller portions. Spend more (about €150–€200 per person) and you’ll be entitled to more lavish dishes such as lobster with celery root and black truffle, and fricassee of Bresse chicken with crayfish. For dessert the kitchen reinterprets French classics, as in an unsinkable pink grapefruit soufflé with grapefruit sorbet. Book months ahead or try your luck at the last minute. | Tour Eiffel, south pillar, Av. Gustave Eiffel | 01–45–55–61–44 | Reservations essential; jacket required | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Bir-Hakeim .

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon.

$$$–$$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | Famed chef Joël Robuchon retired from the restaurant business for several years before opening this red-and-black-lacquer space with a bento-box-meets-tapas aesthetic. High seats surround two U-shape bars, and this novel plan encourages neighbors to share recommendations and opinions. Robuchon’s devoted kitchen staff whip up “small plates” for grazing (€10–€25) as well as full portions, which turn out to be the better bargain. Highlights from the oft-changing menu have included an intense tomato jelly topped with avocado purée and thin-crusted mackerel tart, although his inauthentic (but who’s complaining?) take on carbonara with cream and Alsatian bacon, and the merlan Colbert (fried herb butter) remain signature dishes. Bookings are taken for the first sittings only at lunch and dinner. | 5 rue Montalembert, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75007 | 01–42–22–56–56 | MC, V | Station: Rue du Bac

Le Café Constant.

$ | BISTRO | Middle-aged Parisians are a nostalgic bunch, which explains the popularity of this down-to-earth venue from esteemed chef Christian Constant. This is a relatively humble bistro with cream-color walls, red banquettes, and wooden tables. The menu reads like a French cookbook from the 1970s—who cooks veal cordon bleu these days?—but with Constant overseeing the kitchen, the dishes taste even better than you remember. There’s delicious and creamy lentil soup with morsels of foie gras, and the artichoke salad comes with fresh—not bottled or frozen—hearts. A towering vacherin (meringue layered with ice cream) might bring this delightfully retro meal to a close. On weekdays there is a bargain lunch menu for €16 (two courses) or €23 (three courses). | 139 rue St-Dominique, Invalides | 75007 | 01–47–53–73–34 | Reservations not accepted | MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon. and school holidays | Station: École Militaire; RER: Pont de l’Alma

Fodor’s Choice | Le Violon d’Ingres.

$$$–$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | Following in the footsteps of Joël Robuchon and Alain Senderens, Christian Constant has given up the star chase in favor of more accessible prices and a packed dining room (book at least a week ahead). And with Stéphane Schmidt in charge of the kitchen here Constant can dash between his four restaurants on this street, making sure the hordes are happy. And why wouldn’t they be? The food is sophisticated and the atmosphere is lively; you can even find signature dishes like the almond-crusted sea bass with rémoulade (a buttery caper sauce), alongside game and scallops (in season), and comforting desserts likepots de crème and chocolate tart. The food is still heavy on the butter, but with wines starting at around €20 this is a wonderful place for a classic yet informal French meal. | 135 rue St-Dominique, Invalides | 75007 | 01–45–55–15–05 | www.leviolondingres.com | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon. | Station: École Militaire

8E ARRONDISSEMENT (CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES)

Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée.

$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | The dining room at Alain Ducasse’s flagship Paris restaurant gleams with 10,000 crystals, confirming that this is the flashiest place in town for a blowout meal. Clementine-color tablecloths and space-age cream-and-orange chairs with pull-out plastic trays for business meetings provide an upbeat setting for the cooking of young Ducasse protégé chef Christophe Moret. Some dishes are subtle, whereas in others strong flavors overwhelm delicate ingredients. Service is also a little inconsistent, with occasional long waits between courses. Even so, a meal here is delightfully luxe, starting with a heavenly amuse-bouche of langoustine with caviar and a tangy lemon cream. You can continue with a truffle-and-caviar fest, or opt for more down-to-earth dishes like lobster in spiced wine with quince or saddle of lamb with sautéed artichokes. | Hôtel Plaza Athénée, 25 av. Montaigne, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–53–67–65–00 | Reservations essential; jacket required | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed weekends, 2 wks in late Dec., and mid-July–mid-Aug. No lunch Mon.–Wed. | Station: Alma-Marceau

Dominique Bouchet.

$$$–$$$$ | BISTRO | To taste the cooking of one of the city’s great chefs, you no longer need pay for the sumptuous backdrop once provided by the Hotel Crillon: Dominique Bouchet has left that world behind for an elegant bistro where contemporary art brightens cream-painted walls, and he seems all the happier for it. On the menu, refined French technique meets country-style cooking, as in leg of lamb braised in wine with roasted cocoa bean and potato purée, or a chocolate éclair with black cherries and ice cream. Sometimes the dishes can get a touch too complicated, but the warm service makes up for it. If you’re feeling indecisive you might treat yourself to the €98 tasting menu: a succession of six small plates followed by a dessert. | 11 rue Treilhard, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–45–61–09–46 | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed weekends and 3 wks in Aug. | Station: Miromesnil

La Fermette Marbeuf 1900.

$$–$$$ | BRASSERIE | Graced with one of the most mesmerizing Belle Époque rooms in town—accidentally rediscovered during renovations in the 1970s—this is a favorite haunt of French celebrities, who adore the sunflowers, peacocks, and dragonflies of the Art Nouveau mosaic. The menu rolls out solid, updated classic cuisine: try the snails in puff pastry, saddle of lamb with choron (a tomato-spiked béarnaise sauce), and bitter-chocolate fondant—but ignore the limited-choice €32 prix fixe (€24.50 at lunch) unless you’re on a budget. Popular with tourists and businesspeople at lunch, La Fermette becomes truly animated around 9 PM. | 5 rue Marbeuf, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–53–23–08–00 | www.fermettemarbeuf.com | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt

Le Bristol.

$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | After a rapid ascent at his own new-wave bistro, which led to his renown as one of the more inventive young chefs in Paris, Eric Frechon became head chef at the Bristol, the home-away-from-home for billionaires and power brokers. Frechon creates masterworks—say, farmer’s pork cooked “from head to foot” with truffle-enhanced crushed potatoes—that rarely stray far from the comfort-food tastes of bistro cooking. The €85 lunch menu makes his cooking accessible not just to the palate but to many pocketbooks. No wonder his tables are so coveted. Though the two dining rooms are impeccable—an oval oak-panel one for fall and winter and a marble-floor pavilion overlooking the courtyard garden for spring and summer—they provide few clues to help the world-weary traveler determine which city this might be. | Hôtel Bristol, 112 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, Champs-Elysées | 75008 | 01–53–43–43–00 | www.hotel-bristol.com | Reservations essential; jacket and tie | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Miromesnil.

Pierre Gagnaire.

$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | If you want to venture to the frontier of luxe cooking today—and if money is truly no object—dinner here is a must. Chef Pierre Gagnaire’s work is at once intellectual and poetic, often blending three or four unexpected tastes and textures in a single dish. Just taking in the menu requires concentration (ask the waiters for help), so complex are the multi-line descriptions about the dishes’ six or seven ingredients. The Grand Dessert, a seven-dessert marathon, will leave you breathless, though it’s not as overwhelming as it sounds. The businesslike gray-and-wood dining room feels refreshingly informal, especially at lunch, but it also lacks the grandeur expected at this level. The uninspiring prix-fixe lunch (€105) and occasional ill-judged dishes (Gagnaire is a big risk taker, but also one of France’s top chefs) linger as drawbacks, and prices keep shooting skyward, which makes Pierre Gagnaire an experience best saved for the financial elite. | 6 rue de Balzac, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–58–36–12–50 | www.pierre-gagnaire.com | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sat. No lunch Sun. | Station: Charles-de-Gaulle–Étoile

Fodor’s Choice | Rech.

$$$ | SEAFOOD | Having restored the historic Paris bistros Aux Lyonnais and Benoît to their former glory, star chef Alain Ducasse has turned his piercing attention to this seafood brasserie founded in 1925. His wisdom lies in knowing what not to change: the original Art Deco chairs in the main floor dining room; seafood shucker Malec, who has been a fixture on this chic stretch of sidewalk since 1982; and the XXL éclair (it’s supersized) that’s drawn in the locals for decades. Original owner Auguste Rech believed in serving a limited selection of high-quality products, a principle that suits Ducasse perfectly, and from the compact open kitchen upstairs, young chef Baptiste Peupion turns out impeccable dishes such as octopus carpaccio with Genovese pesto, lobster ravioli, and astonishingly good clam chowder. Save room for the whole farmer’s Camembert, another Rech tradition. A good-value €30 menu is available at lunch. | 62 av. des Ternes, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–45–72–29–47 | www.rech.fr | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon.

Senderens.

$$$–$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | Iconic chef Alain Senderens waited until retirement age to make a rebellious statement against the all-powerful Michelin inspectors, “giving back” the three stars he had held for 28 years and renaming his restaurant (it was Lucas Carton). He also updated the decor, juxtaposing curvy, white, new furnishings and craterlike ceiling lights against the splendid Art Nouveau interior. The fusion menu spans the globe, though Senderens has also, happily for the patrons, reintroduced the occasional Lucas Carton signature dishes such as polenta with truffles in winter. Some dishes work, as in warm semi-smoked salmon with Thai spices and cucumber, and some fall flat, as in a too-rich starter of roast foie gras with fig salad and licorice powder. Upstairs, Le Passage Bar serves tapas-style dishes for less than €20 a plate, or €36 for four small courses. | 9 pl. de la Madeleine , Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–42–65–22–90 | www.senderens.fr | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Madeleine

Spoon.

$$$–$$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | Alain Ducasse’s original fusion bistro is centered around a silver screen, a long central, communal table, and some of the superchef’s most fashionable food. The mix-and-match menu hasn’t changed significantly since the restaurant first opened, but you can now order the bento-style lunch for €33 or a more elaborate €80 tasting menu at dinner (€120 with matching wines). Fashion folk love this place for its many vegetable and pasta dishes and its irresistible desserts, such as the cheesecake or the chocolate pizza to share. If you’ve sampled the Spoon concept elsewhere in the world, don’t expect the same here; each branch is tailored to a particular city’s tastes, and what looks exotic in Paris (the Spoon Burger with a slice of bacon or foie gras) might seem humdrum in New York. | 12 rue de Marignan, Champs-Elysées | 01–40–76–34–44 | www.spoon-restaurants.com | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed weekends and Aug. | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.

Taillevent.

$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | Perhaps the most traditional—for many diners this is only high praise—of all Paris luxury restaurants, this grande dame basks in renewed freshness under brilliant chef Alain Solivérès, who draws inspiration from the Basque country, Bordeaux, and Languedoc for his daily-changing menu. Traditional dishes such as scallops meunière (with butter and lemon) are matched with contemporary choices such as a splendid spelt risotto with truffles and frogs’ legs or panfried duck liver with caramelized fruits and vegetables. One of the 19th-century paneled salons has been turned into a winter garden, and contemporary paintings adorn the walls. The service is flawless, and the exceptional wine list is well priced. All in all, a meal here comes as close to the classic haute-cuisine experience as you can find in Paris. There’s an €80 lunch menu, with wines by the glass starting at €10. | 15 rue Lamennais, Champs-Élysées | 75008 | 01–44–95–15–01 | Reservations essential; jacket and tie | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed weekends, last wk in July, and 1st 3 wks in Aug. | Station: Charles-de-Gaulle–Étoile

9E ARRONDISSEMENT (OPÉRA)

Higuma.

¢ | JAPANESE | When it comes to steaming bowls of noodles, this no-frills dining room divided into three sections beats its many neighboring competitors. Behind the counter—an entertaining spot for solo diners—cooks toil over giant flames, tossing strips of meat and quick-fried vegetables, then ladling noodles and broth into giant bowls. A choice of formules (fixed-price menu options) allows you to pair various soups and stir-fried noodle dishes with six delicious gyoza (Japanese dumplings), and the stir-fried dishes are excellent, too. Don’t expect much in the way of service, but it’s hard to find a more generous meal in Paris at this price. There is a more subdued annex (without the open kitchen) at 163 rue St-Honoré, near the Louvre. | 32 rue Ste-Anne, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75001 | 01–47–03–38–59 | MC, V | Station: Pyramides.

Rose Bakery.

$ | BRITISH | On a street lined with French food shops selling produce, fish, baguettes, and monastery cheeses, this British-run café-restaurant might easily go unnoticed—if it weren’t for the frequent line out the door. Whitewashed walls, childlike art, and concrete floors provide the decor, and organic producers supply the ingredients for food so fresh and tasty it puts most Paris lunch spots to shame. French office workers and the area’s Anglos fill the room at lunch to feast on salads, soups, and hot dishes such as delicious risotto, followed by carrot cake, sticky toffee pudding, or comically large lemon tarts. There is also a branch at 30 rue Debelleyme in Le Marais. Weekend brunch is popular, so plan to arrive early. | 46 rue des Martyrs, Montmartre | 75009 | 01–42–82–12–80 | Reservations not accepted | AE, MC, V | Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Aug. No dinner | Station: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette.

11E ARRONDISSEMENT (BASTILLE)

Astier.

$ | BISTRO | There are three good reasons to go to Astier: the generous cheese platter plonked on your table atop a help-yourself wicker tray, the exceptional wine cellar with bottles dating to the 1970s, and the French bistro fare, even if portions seem to have diminished over the years. Dishes like marinated herring with warm potato salad, sausage with lentils, and baba au rhum are classics on the frequently changing set menu for €31, which doesn’t allow you to order fewer than three courses. The vintage 1950s wood-panel dining room attracts plenty of locals and remains a fairly sure bet in the area, especially since it’s open every day. | 44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, République | 75011 | 01–43–57–16–35 | Reservations essential | MC, V | Station: Parmentier

Fodor’s Choice | Le Bistrot Paul Bert.

$$ | BISTRO | Faded 1930s decor: check. Boisterous crowd: check. Thick steak with real frites: check. Good value: check. The Paul Bert delivers everything you could want from a traditional Paris bistro, so it’s no wonder its two dining rooms (one recently added) fill every night with a cosmopolitan crowd. Some are from the neighborhood, others clutch copies of the Financial Times, but they’ve all come in search of the elusive balance of ingredients that makes for a feel-good experience every time. The laid-back yet efficient staff serves up hearty dishes such as monkfish with white beans and duck with pears—the reasonable prix-fixe is three courses for €34, or you can order à la carte. | 18 rue Paul Bert, Bastille | 01–43—72–24–01 | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug..

Le Repaire de Cartouche.

$$–$$$ | BISTRO | In this split-level, dark-wood bistro between Bastille and République, chef Rodolphe Paquin applies a disciplined creativity to earthy French regional dishes. The menu changes regularly, but typical are a salad of haricots verts (green beans) topped with tender slices of squid, scallops on a bed of diced pumpkin, juicy lamb with white beans, game dishes in winter, and old-fashioned desserts like baked custard with tiny shell-shape madeleines. In keeping with cost-conscious times, he whips up a bargain three-course lunch menu for €16that doesn’t skimp on ingredients—expect the likes of homemade pâté to start, followed by fried red mullet or hanger steak with french fries, and chocolate tart. The wine list is very good, too, with some bargain wines from small producers. | 8 bd. des Filles du Calvaire, Bastille/Nation | 75011 | 01–47–00–25–86 | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., and Aug. | Station: Filles du Calvaire

14E ARRONDISSEMENT (MONTPARNASSE)

La Coupole.

$$–$$$ | BRASSERIE | This world-renowned cavernous spot with Art Deco murals practically defines the term brasserie. La Coupole might have lost its intellectual aura since the Flo group’s restoration, which has put its rather commercial stamp on many historic Paris brasseries, but it’s been popular since Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir were regulars, and it’s still great fun. Today it attracts a mix of bourgeois families, tourists, and elderly lone diners treating themselves to a dozen oysters. Recent additions to the classic brasserie menu are a tart of caramelized apple and panfried foie gras, beef fillet flambéed with cognac before your eyes, and profiteroles made with Valrhona chocolate. On most days, you can’t make a reservation after 8 or 8:30, so be prepared for a wait at the bar. | 102 bd. du Montparnasse, Montparnasse | 75014 | 01–43–20–14–20 | www.flobrasseries.com | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Vavin

16E ARRONDISSEMENT (ARC DE TRIOMPHE/LE BOIS)

Fodor’s Choice | L’Astrance.

$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | Granted, Pascal Barbot rose to fame thanks to his restaurant’s amazing-value food and casual atmosphere, but after the passage of several years, L’Astrance has become resolutely haute, with prices to match. With no à la carte, you can choose from a lunch menu for €70, a seasonal menu for €120, or the full tasting menu for €190 (this is what most people come for)—the latter two are available at lunch and dinner. Barbot’s cooking has such an ethereal quality that it’s worth the considerable effort of booking a table—you should start trying at least six weeks in advance. His dishes often draw on Asian ingredients, as in grilled lamb with miso-lacquered eggplant and a palate-cleansing white sorbet spiked with chili pepper and lemongrass. Each menu also comes at a (considerably) higher price with wines to match each course. | 4 rue Beethoven, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75016 | 01–40–50–84–40 | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sat.–Mon. and Aug. | Station: Passy

La Table de Joël Robuchon.

$$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | Chef David Alves keeps up the lofty standard set by star chef Joël Robuchon, with dishes like quail stuffed with foie gras, served with truffled potato purée. As at Robuchon’s L’Atelier, you’ll find a selection of small plates alongside more substantial dishes, but the seating arrangement is more conventional (no bar, just tables and chairs) and La Table accepts reservations—in fact, you should book weeks in advance for a seat in this small dining room that is somewhat disconcertingly decorated in gold leaf. The “menu club” set-menu for €59 at lunch is a relative bargain. | 16 av. Bugeaud, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75016 | 01–56–28–16–16 | Reservations essential | MC, V | Station: Victor-Hugo

Fodor’s Choice | La Table Lauriston.

$$–$$$ | BISTRO | Serge Barbey has developed a winning formula in his chic bistro near the Trocadéro: top-notch ingredients, simply prepared and generously served. To start, you can’t go wrong with his silky foie gras au torchon—the liver is poached in a flavorful bouillon—or one of the seasonal salads, such as white asparagus in herb vinaigrette; his trademark dish, a gargantuan rib steak, is big enough to silence even the hungriest Texan. Given the neighborhood you might expect a businesslike setting, but the dining room feels cheerful, with vividly colored walls and velvet-upholstered chairs, and there is a 16-seat terrace. Don’t miss the giant baba au rhum, which the waiters will douse in a choice of three rums. | 129 rue de Lauriston, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 01–47–27–00–07 | www.restauranttablelauriston.com | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun., 3 wks in Aug., and 1 wk at Christmas. No lunch Sat. | Station: Trocadéro.

17E ARRONDISSEMENT (MONCEAU/CLICHY)

Fodor’s Choice | Guy Savoy.

$$$$ | HAUTE FRENCH | Revamped with dark African wood, rich leather, cream-color marble, and the chef’s own art collection, Guy Savoy’s luxury restaurant doesn’t dwell on the past. Come here for a perfectly measured haute-cuisine experience, since Savoy’s several bistros have not lured him away from his kitchen. The artichoke soup with black truffles, sea bass with spices, and veal kidneys in mustard-spiked jus reveal the magnitude of his talent, and his mille-feuille is an instant classic. If the waiters see you are relishing a dish, they won’t hesitate to offer second helpings. Generous half portions allow you to graze your way through the menu—unless you choose a blowout feast for €275 or €345—and reasonably priced wines are available (though beware the cost of wines by the glass). Special promotions are sometimes available on the Web site (www.guysavoy.com). Best of all, the atmosphere is joyful, because Savoy knows that having fun is just as important as eating well. | 18 rue Troyon, Champs-Élysées | 75017 | 01–43–80–40–61 | Reservations essential; jacket required | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun., Mon., Aug., and 1 wk at Christmas. No lunch Sat. | Station: Charles-de-Gaulle–Étoile

18E ARRONDISSEMENT (MONTMARTRE)

Fodor’s Choice | Guilo Guilo.

$$$ | JAPANESE | Already a star in Kyoto, Eiichi Edakuni has created a sensation with his first Parisian restaurant, where 20 diners seated around the black bar can watch him at work each night. The no-choice, €45 set menu is a bargain given the quality and sophistication of the food: it changes every month, but you might come across dishes such as sea bream and wagyu beef on shiso leaves with ponzu sauce, or the chef’s signature foie gras sushi, an idea that could easily fall flat but instead soars. If you can afford it, complement your meal with exceptional sakes by the glass, one of which is sparkling. This restaurant is no secret, so reserve three weeks ahead. | 8 rue Garreau, Montmartre | 75018 | 01–42–54–23–92 | www.guiloguilo.com | Reservations essential | MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon. | Station: Abbesses

CAFÉS AND SALONS DE THÉ

Along with air, water, and wine (Parisians eat fewer and fewer three-course meals), the café remains one of the basic necessities of life in Paris; following is a small selection of cafés and salons de thé (tearooms) to whet your appetite. Brasserie Lipp (151 bd. St-Germain, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–45–48–53–91 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés), with its turn-of-the-20th-century decor, was a favorite spot of Hemingway’s; today television celebrities, journalists, and politicians come here for coffee—but not the mediocre food—on the small glassed-in terrace off the main restaurant. Café Marly (Cour Napoléon du Louvre, 93 rue de Rivoli, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–49–26–06–60 | Station: Palais-Royal), overlooking the main courtyard of the Louvre, is perfect for an afternoon break or a nightcap. Note that ordinary café service shuts down during meal hours, when overpriced, mediocre food is served.

La Charlotte en I’lle (24 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, Ile St-Louis, 4e | 75004 | 01–43–54–25–83 | Station: Pont-Marie) would be fancied by the witch who baked gingerbread children in Hansel and Gretel—set with fairy lights, carnival masques, and decoupaged detritus, it’s a tiny, storybook spot that offers more than 30 varieties of tea along with a sinfully good hot chocolate. Le Progrès (7 rue Trois , Montmartre, 18e | 75018 | 01–42–64–07–37 | Station: Abbesses) draws a quirky mix, from retirees sipping espresso at the counter to hipsters, artists, and discriminating tourists. les éditeurs (4 carrefour de l’Odéon, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 01–43–26–67–76 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés) makes for a perfect setting to sip a kir (white wine with black currant syrup) alongside the Parisian publishing set, either from a perch on the skinny sidewalk or at an inside table shadowed by book-lined walls. Le Flore en l’Ile (42 quai d’Orléans, Ile St-Louis, 4e | 75004 | 01–43–29–88–27 | Station: Pont-Marie) is on the Ile St-Louis and has a magnificent view of the Seine. Ladurée (16 rue Royale, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 8e | 75008 | 01–42–60–21–79 | www.laduree.fr | Station: Madeleine | 75 av. des Champs-Élysées, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–40–75–08–75 | Station: Georges V) is pretty enough to bring a tear to Proust’s eye—these salons de thé have barely changed since 1862 (there’s another outpost on the Left Bank at 21 rue Bonaparte). For sheer Traviata opulence, the one on the Champs-Élysées can’t be beat: wait until you see the pâtisserie counter or the super-sumptuous Salon Paéva. You can dote on the signature lemon-and-caramel macaroons, or try them in a dazzling array of other flavors including hazelnut praline, rose petal, pistachio, blackcurrant violet, or salted butter caramel. Oooooh! Ma Bourgogne (19 pl. des Vosges, Le Marais, 4e | 75004 | 01–42–78–44–64 | Station: St-Paul), on magical Place des Vosges, is a calm oasis for a coffee or a light lunch away from the noisy streets. Mariage Frères (30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, Le Marais, 4e | 75004 | 01–42–72–28–11 | Station: Hôtel-de-Ville) is an outstanding tea shop serving 500 kinds of tea, along with delicious tarts. La Palette (43 rue de Seine, St-Germain-des-Prés7e | 75006 | 01–43–26–68–15 | St-Germain-des-Prés) is a favorite haunt of local gallery owners and Beaux Arts students. Come at sunset—or later—when the scene gets lively.

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Where Should I Stay? | 1er Arrondissement (Louvre/Les Halles) | 2[e] Arrondissement (Bourse/Les Halles) | 3[e] Arrondissement (Beaubourg/Marais) | 4[e] Arrondissement (Marais/Ile St-Louis) | 5[e] Arrondissement (Latin Quarter) | 6[e] Arrondissement (St-Germain) | 7[e] Arrondissement (Tour Eiffel/Invalides) | 8[e] Arrondissement (Champs-Élysées) | 9[e] Arrondissement (Opéra) | 11[e] Arrondissement (Bastille) | 12[e] Arrondissement (Bastille/Gare de Lyon) | 16[e] Arrondissement (Arc de Triomphe/Le Bois) | 20[e] Arrondissement

Updated by Heather Stimmler-Hall

Winding staircases, flower-filled window boxes, concierges who seem to have stepped out of a 19th-century novel—all of these can still be found in Paris hotels, and despite the scales being tipped in favor of the well-heeled, overall there’s good news for travelers of all budgets. Increased competition means the bar for service and amenities has been raised everywhere. Many good-value establishments in the lower-to-middle price ranges have updated their funky ‘70s wallpaper and “Why should I care, Madame?” attitudes, while still keeping their prices in check. Virtually every hotel is now equipped with cable TV to meet the needs of international guests. Now it’s not uncommon for mid-range hotels to have a no-smoking floor, for inexpensive hotels to offer air-conditioning and buffet breakfast service, and even for budget places to have wireless Internet or an Internet terminal in their little lobbies. So, whatever price you’re looking for, compared to most other cities Paris is a paradise for the weary traveler tired of dreary, out-of-date, or cookie-cutter rooms. The best hotels still emanate an unmistakable Paris vibe: weathered beamed ceilings, vaulted stone breakfast crypts, tall windows overlooking zinc rooftops, and leafy courtyards where you can sit and linger over your daily croissant and café.

WHAT IT COSTS IN EUROS

FOR TWO PEOPLE

¢

under €80

$

€81–€120

$$

€121–€175

$$$

€176–€250

$$$$

over €250

Prices are for a standard double room in high season, including tax (19.6%) and service charge.

WHERE SHOULD I STAY?

ST-GERMAIN AND MONTPARNASSE (6E, 14E, 15E)

Neighborhood Vibe: The center of café culture and the emblem of the Left Bank, the mood is leisurely, the attractions are well established, and the prices are high.

Pros: A safe, historic area with chic fashion boutiques, famous cafés and brasseries, and lovely side streets. Lively day and night.

Cons: Expensive. Noisy along the main streets. The area around the monstrous Tour Montparnasse is a soul-sucking tribute to commerce.

THE QUARTIER LATIN (5E)

Neighborhood Vibe: The historic student quarter of the Left Bank, full of narrow, winding streets, and major parks and monuments such as the Panthéon.

Pros: Plenty of cheap eats and sleeps, discount book and music shops, and noteworthy open-air markets. Safe area for wandering walks.

Cons: Touristy. No métro stations on the hilltop around the Panthéon. Student pubs can be noisy in summer. Hotel rooms tend to be smaller.

MARAIS AND BASTILLE (3E, 4E, 11E)

Neighborhood Vibe: Cute shops, museums, and laid-back bistros line the narrow streets of the Marais, home to both the gay and Jewish communities. Farther east, ethnic eats and edgy shops.

Pros: Generally excellent shopping, sightseeing, dining, and nightlife in the super-safe Marais. Bargains aplenty at Bastille hotels. Several modern-design hotels, too.

Cons: The Marais’s narrow sidewalks are always overcrowded, and rooms don’t come cheap. It’s noisy around the gritty boulevards of Place de la Bastille and Nation.

MONTMARTRE AND NORTHEAST PARIS (18E, 19E)

Neighborhood Vibe: The hilltop district is known for winding streets leading from the racy Pigalle district to the stark-white Sacré-Coeur Basilica.

Pros: Amazing views of Paris, romantic cobblestone streets, easy access to Roissy-Charles de Gaulle airport.

Cons: Steep staircases, few métro stations, and Pigalle can be too seedy to stomach, especially late at night, when it can also be unsafe.

CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES AND WESTERN PARIS (8E, 16E, 17E)

Neighborhood Vibe: The world-famous avenue is lively 24/7 with cinemas, high-end shops, and nightclubs, all catering to the moneyed jet set.

Pros: The home to most of the city’s famous palace hotels, there’s no shortage of luxurious sleeps here.

Cons: The high prices of this neighborhood, along with its Times Square tendencies, repel Parisians but lure pickpockets.

AROUND THE TOUR EIFFEL (7E, 15E)

Neighborhood Vibe: The impressive Eiffel Tower and monumental Palais de Chaillot at Trocadéro straddle the Seine River.

Pros: Safe, quiet, and relatively inexpensive area of Paris with green spaces and picture-perfect views at every turn.

Cons: With few shops and restaurants, this district is very quiet at night; long distances between métro stations.

LOUVRE, LES HALLES, ILE DE LA CITÉ (1E, 2E, 8E)

Neighborhood Vibe: The central Parisian district around the Tuileries gardens and Louvre museum is best known for shopping and sightseeing; Les Halles is a buzzing hub of commerce and mass transit.

Pros: Convenient for getting around Paris on foot, bus, or métro. Safe, attractive district close to the Seine and shops of all types. All the major métro and RER lines are right by Les Halles.

Cons: The main drag along Rue de Rivoli can be noisy with traffic during the day, and the restaurants cater mostly to tourists. Shops are tacky and fast food predominates around Les Halles.

1ER ARRONDISSEMENT (LOUVRE/LES HALLES)

Hôtel Brighton.

$$$ | Many of Paris’s most prestigious palace hotels face the Tuileries or Place de la Concorde, and while the Brighton breathes the same rarified air under the arcades, it does so for a fraction of the price. Smaller rooms look onto a courtyard; street-facing ones have balconies and a royal view of the gardens and Rive Gauche. Extensive renovations updated all the rooms, with the newest ones featuring flat-screen TVs and heated towel racks. First-floor rooms have high ceilings. Pros: great views; central location in a prestigious neighborhood; free Wi-Fi. Cons: the busy street can make rooms with a view a bit noisy; variable quality in decor between rooms. | 218 rue de Rivoli, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–47–03–61–61 | www.paris-hotel-brighton.com | 61 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: laundry service | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Tuileries.

Hôtel Britannique.

$$$ | Open since 1861 and a stone’s throw from the Louvre, the Britannique blends courteous English service with old-fashioned French elegance. Take the winding staircase to rooms done in a mix of attractive repro furniture and antiques. Wi-Fi and in-room flat-screen TVs lend an air of modernity. In World War I, the hotel served as headquarters for a Quaker mission. Pros: one of the city’s most charming hotels, on a calm side street less than a block from the métro/RER station; attentive staff. Cons: smallish rooms; soundproofing between rooms could be better. | 20 av.Victoria Beaubourg/Les Halles | 75001 | 01–42–33–74–59 | www.hotel-britannique.fr | 38 rooms, 1 suite | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, laundry service | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Châtelet

Hôtel Henri IV.

¢ | When tourists think of staying on one of the islands, it’s usually Ile St-Louis, not Ile de la Cité, but the overlooked isle shelters one of the city’s most beloved budget-priced sleeps. The 17th-century building that once housed King Henri IV’s printing presses offers few comforts: the narrow staircase (five flights, no elevator) creaks and the rooms have few amenities. Recent renovations, however, have added showers and toilets in almost every room. The payoff is a location overlooking the oasislike Place Dauphine, just a few steps from the Pont Neuf and Sainte-Chapelle. Pros: very quiet, central location; breakfast included. Cons: steep stairs and no elevator; few services or amenities; no e-mail or online reservations. | 25 pl. Dauphine, Ile de la Cité | 75001 | 01–43–54–44–53 | www.henri4hotel.fr | 15 rooms, 11 with bath | In-room: no a/c, no phone, no TV | MC, V | CP | Station: Cité, St-Michel, Pont Neuf.

Hôtel Londres St-Honoré.

$$ | An appealing combination of character and comfort distinguishes this small, inexpensive hotel, which is a five-minute walk from the Louvre. Exposed oak beams, statues in niches, and rustic stone walls give this place an old-fashioned air. Most rooms have floral bedspreads and standard hotel furniture, though bathrooms are refreshingly modern, with real hair dryers. Note that elevator service begins on the second floor, so some stairs are guaranteed. Pros: within walking distance of major sites; free Wi-Fi. Cons: small elevator that doesn’t go to ground floor; small beds; upper rooms can get very hot in summer (fans are available). | 13 rueSt-Roch | 75001 | 01–42–60–15–62 | www.hotellondressthonore-paris.com | 21 rooms, 4 suites | In-room: no a/c (some), safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: Internet terminal, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Pyramides

Hôtel Meurice.

$$$$ | Since 1835, the Meurice has welcomed royalty and celebrities, from the Duchess of Windsor to Salvador Dalí. In late 2007 the lobby, bar, and restaurant were given a swanky makeover by French designer Philippe Starck. Rooms have a gilded Louis XVI or Napoleonic Empire style, with antique furnishings covered in sumptuous French and Italian brocades. Most rooms have a Tuileries/Louvre or Sacré-Coeur view, but the massive Royal Suite takes in a 360-degree panorama. Bathrooms are marble, with deep, spacious tubs. The health club includes grape-seed-based treatments, such as “cabernet sauvignon” massages; children are pampered with their own Meurice teddy bear and tot-size slippers and bathrobe. Pros: views over the gardens; central location; trendy public spaces. Cons: on a noisy street; popularity makes the public areas not very discreet. | 228 rue de Rivoli, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–44–58–10–09 | www.meuricehotel.com | 160 rooms, 36 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, Internet. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, room service, bar, gym, Internet terminal, some pets allowed, no-smoking rooms | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Tuileries, Concorde.

Renaissance Paris Vendôme.

$$$$ | Hiding behind a classic 19th-century facade is a fresh, contemporary hotel with subtle 1930s influences. Under a huge atrium skylight, the lobby’s polished black marble floors, lacquered hardwood furnishings, neutral fabrics, and decadent antiques set the mood. The small library has free Wi-Fi and a wood-burning fireplace, and the intimate Bar Chinois is decorated with elaborate Chinese wallpaper. Imported woods and black slate accent the hotel’s sauna, steam room, and countercurrent swimming pool. Pros: posh location; trendy restaurant; free Wi-Fi. Cons: as part of the Marriott group it can feel a bit lacking in character. | 4 rue du Mont Thabor, Louvre/Tuileries | 01–40–20–20–00 | www.renaissanceparisvendome.com | 82 rooms, 15 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, DVD, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, bar, pool, gym, laundry service, Internet terminal, parking (paid) | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Tuileries.

Ritz.

$$$$ | Ever since César Ritz opened the doors of his hotel in 1898, the mere name of this venerable institution has become synonymous with luxury. The famed Ritz Escoffier cooking school, where you can learn the finer points of gateaux, is here, as is the new Ritz Lounge Bar and the Hemingway Bar. There’s also a Greek-temple-style subterranean spa and swimming pool. Guest rooms match this level of luxe; even the humbler spaces have every modern doodad, cleverly camouflaged with the decor of gleaming mirrors, chandeliers, and antiques. (Think marble baths with gold pull chains that summon the valet or maid.) The most palatial suites are named after famous Ritz residents: Coco Chanel, the Prince of Wales, and Elton John. Pros: spacious swimming pool; selection of bars and restaurants; top-notch service. Cons: can feel stuffy and old-fashioned; easy to get lost in the vast hotel; paparazzi magnet. | 15 pl. Vendôme, Louvre/Tuileries | 75001 | 01–43–16–30–30 | www.ritzparis.com | 106 rooms, 56 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 3 restaurants, room service, bars, pool, gym, spa, children’s programs (ages 6–12), laundry service, Internet terminal, parking (paid) | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Opéra

2E ARRONDISSEMENT (BOURSE/LES HALLES)

Hôtel de Noailles.

$$$ | With a nod to the work of postmodern designers like Putman and Starck, this style-driven boutique is both contemporary and cozy. Rooms are sleek and streamlined, with backlit, custom-built cabinets, glassed-in bathrooms, and fabric or faux-leather wall coverings. A spacious outdoor terrace is off the breakfast lounge. Pros: a block from the airport bus; easy walk to the Louvre and Opéra. Cons: small elevator; no interesting views. | 9 rue de Michodière, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75002 | 01–47–42–92–90 | www.hoteldenoailles.com | 58 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, laundry service, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Opéra.

Hôtel Tiquetonne.

¢ | Just off the Montorgueil market and a short hoof from Les Halles (and slightly seedy Rue St-Denis), this is one of the least expensive hotels in the city center. The so-old-fashioned-they’re-vintage-cool rooms aren’t much to look at and have few amenities, but they’re clean, and some are spacious. Cheaper rooms are available with just a sink (toilets and pay showers are in each hall). Pros: dirt-cheap rooms in the center of town; in a newly trendy shopping and nightlife area. Cons: minimal service and no amenities; noise from the street. | 6 rue Tiquetonne, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 75002 | 01–42–36–94–58 | 45 rooms, 33 with bath | In-room: no a/c, no TV. In-hotel: some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | Closed Aug. and last wk of Dec. | Station: Étienne Marcel

Hôtel Vivienne.

$ | The decor is a bit schizoid: some guest rooms have chandeliers, others have fuzzy brown rugs and busy bedspreads, and another is fashionably minimalist. Room Nos. 39, 40, and 41 are blessed with large rooftop balconies. The location near the Opéra Garnier and Grands Boulevards department stores and the free Internet station in the lobby make this a good bet in this price range. Pros: good value for central Paris; a block from the métro station; free Internet. Cons: a noisy street and late-night bar across the road can make it hard to keep windows open in summer; some rooms are small and ugly. | 40 rue Vivienne, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01–42–33–13–26 | 45 rooms, 35 with bath | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: some pets allowed | MC, V | Station:  Bourse, Richelieu Drouot

3E ARRONDISSEMENT (BEAUBOURG/MARAIS)

Hôtel Bellevue et du Chariot d’Or.

¢ | This old Belle Époque time traveler is proud to keep its dingy chandeliers and faded gold trimming. Budget groups from France and the Netherlands come for the clean, sans-frills rooms; some units sleep four. Halls are lined with stamped felt that helps muffle sounds trickling up from the marble-floor lobby and bar. There may be some quirks, but you’re just a few blocks from hipper addresses in the heart of the Marais. Pros: large rooms great for families; Wi-Fi; easy walk to the Marais and Les Halles districts. Cons: on a very busy, noisy street; not the most attractive part of central Paris; drab decor. | 39 rue de Turbigo, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 75003 | 01–48–87–45–60 | www.hotelbellevue75.com | 59 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi hotspot. In-hotel: bar | AE, DC, MC, V | BP | Station: Réaumur-Sébastopol, Arts et Métiers

Murano Urban Resort.

$$$$ | As the epicenter of Parisian cool migrates eastward, it’s no surprise that a design-conscious hotel has followed. On the trendy northern edge of the Marais, this cheeky hotel that dares to call itself a resort combines Austin Powers playfulness with serious 007-inspired gadgetry. A psychedelic elevator zooms guests to ultraviolet-light hallways, where they enter pristine white rooms via fingerprint sensor locks. Pop-art furniture and bedside control panels that change the color of the lighting keep guests amused—until it’s time for cocktails. Stylish Parisians pack the hotel’s vodka bar and sleek restaurant, where a live DJ holds court. Two suites have private terraces with heated, countercurrent pools. Pros: high-tech amenities and funky style; very trendy bar attracts stylish locals; brunch served until 5 PM on Sunday. Cons: on the far edge of the Marais on a noisy, busy boulevard; dark hallways can make it difficult to find your room; the white carpeting quickly shows wear and tear. | 13 bd. du Temple, République | 75003 | 01–42–71–20–00 | www.muranoresort.com | 43 rooms, 9 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, DVD, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, bar, pool, gym, spa, laundry service, parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Filles du Calvaire

Pavillon de la Reine.

$$$$ | This enchanting countrylike château is hidden off the regal Place des Vosges behind a stunning garden courtyard. Gigantic beams, chunky stone pillars, original oils, and a weathered fireplace speak to the building’s 1612 origins. The hotel has large doubles, duplexes, and suites decorated in either contemporary or 18th-century-style wall fabrics. Many rooms look out on the entry court or an interior Japanese-inspired garden. Pros: beautiful garden courtyard; typically Parisian historic character; proximity to the Place des Vosges without the noise. Cons: expensive for the Marais and the size of the rooms; the nearest métro is a few long blocks away. | 28 pl. des Vosges, Le Marais | 01–40–29–19–19, 800/447–7462 in U.S. | www.pavillon-de-la-reine.com | 30 rooms, 26 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, laundry service, parking (free), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Bastille, St-Paul

4E ARRONDISSEMENT (MARAIS/ILE ST-LOUIS)

Grand Hôtel Jeanne-d’Arc.

$ | You can get your money’s worth at this hotel in an unbeatable location off the tranquil Place du Marché Ste-Catherine, one of the city’s lesser-known pedestrian squares. The 17th-century building has been a hotel for more than a century, and although rooms are on the spartan side, they’re well maintained, with spotless tiled bathrooms and cheery, if somewhat mismatched, colors (some rooms facing the back are more muted). The welcoming staff is informal and happy to recount the history of this former market quartier. Pros: charming street close to major sites; good value for Le Marais; lots of drinking and dining options nearby. Cons: late-night revelers on the square can be noisy after midnight; minimal amenities; rooms have varying quality and size. | 3 rue deJarente, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–48–87–62–11 | www.hoteljeannedarc.com | 36 rooms | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: Wi-Fi, some pets allowed | MC, V | Station: St-Paul

Hôtel Bourg Tibourg.

$$$ | Scented candles and subdued lighting announce designer-du-jour Jacques Garcia’s mix of haremlike romance and Gothic contemplation. Royal-blue paint and red velvet line the claustrophobic halls, and Byzantine alcoves hold mosaic-tile tubs. Rooms are barely bigger than the beds, and every inch has been upholstered, tasseled, and draped in a cacophony of stripes, florals, and medieval motifs. A pocket garden has room for three tables, leafy plants, and a swath of stars above. Pros: quiet side street in central Paris; luxurious style at moderate prices; great nightlife district. Cons: rooms are small and ill equipped for those with large suitcases; no hotel restaurant. | 19 rue BourgTibourg, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–42–78–47–39 | www.hotelbourgtibourg.com | 29 rooms, 1 suite | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, laundry service | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Hôtel de Ville

Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais.

$$ | The theme of this intimate, romantic hotel is the work of former next-door neighbor Pierre-Augustin Caron de Beaumarchais, supplier of military aid to American revolutionaries and a playwright who penned The Marriage of Figaro and The Barber of Seville. First-edition copies of his books adorn the public spaces, and the salons reflect the taste of 18th-century French nobility—down to the wallpaper and 1792 pianoforte. Richly decorated with floral fabrics and period furnishings, the rooms have original beams and hand-painted bathroom tiles, as well as flat-screen TVs and Wi-Fi. Pros: cozy, historic Parisian decor; central location within easy walking distance to major monuments. Cons: small rooms; busy street of bars and cafés can be noisy. | 12 rueVieille-du-Temple, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–42–72–34–12 | www.carondebeaumarchais.com | 19 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: laundry service | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Hôtel de Ville

Hôtel de la Bretonnerie.

$$ | This small hotel is in a 17th-century hôtel particulier (town house) on a tiny street in the Marais, a few minutes’ walk from the Centre Pompidou and the bars and cafés of Rue Vieille du Temple. Rooms are classified as either chambres classiques or chambres de charme, the latter being more spacious, and naturally pricier, but with more elaborate furnishings, like Louis XIII–style four-poster canopy beds and marble-clad bathtubs. Overall, the establishment is spotless, and the staff is welcoming. Pros: central location and comfortable decor at a moderate price; typical Parisian character; Wi-Fi. Cons: quality and size of the rooms vary greatly; location in heart of bustling gay district may not please everyone. | 22 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–48–87–77–63 | www.bretonnerie.com | 22 rooms, 7 suites | In-room: no a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: laundry service | MC, V | Station: Hôtel de Ville

Hôtel de la Place des Vosges.

$ | Despite a lack of some expected comforts and an elevator that doesn’t serve all floors, a loyal clientele swears by this small, historic hotel on a street leading directly into Place des Vosges. The Louis XIII–style reception area and rooms with oak-beam ceilings, rough-hewn stone, and a mix of rustic finds from secondhand shops evoke the Old Marais. The lone top-floor room, the hotel’s largest, has a Jacuzzi and a view over Rive Droite rooftops. Other, considerably smaller rooms are cheaper. Fans are provided in summer. Pros: excellent location; fans on request; historic Parisian decor; good value rates for the amenities Cons: no air-conditioning; most rooms are very small; street-facing rooms can be noisy. | 12 rue de Birague, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–42–72–60–46 | www.hotelplacedesvosges.com | 16 rooms | In-room: no a/c, safe, Wi-Fi | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Bastille

Hôtel Duo.

$$$ | The former Axial Beaubourg hotel doubled in size and changed its name in 2006. It now has a fresh, contemporary style with bold colors and dramatic lighting, particularly in the newer wing, and the original 16th-century beams add character to the older rooms. Amenities include a small fitness area, a sauna, and a stylish bar and breakfast lounge that fits in perfectly with the hip design vibe of the Marais district. Pros: trendy Marais location; walking distance to major monuments; choice of two different room styles. Cons: noisy street; service not always delivered with a smile. | 11 rue du Temple, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–42–72–72–22 | www.duoparis.com | 58 rooms | In-room: safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, gym, laundry service | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Hôtel de Ville

Hôtel du Vieux Marais.

$$ | A great value for the money in one of the most popular neighborhoods in Paris, this pleasingly minimalist hotel with a fin de siècle facade is on a quiet street in the heart of Le Marais. Rooms are bright and impeccably clean, with contemporary oak furnishings, burgundy-leather seating, and velour curtains. Bathrooms are immaculately tiled in Italian marble, with walk-in showers or combination shower/tubs. If you prefer a bit of extra space, ask about special rates on the triple rooms. The staff is exceptionally friendly, and the lobby has Wi-Fi. Pros: quiet side street location in central Paris; good value for the size and comfort. Cons: some rooms are very small and face a dark inner courtyard; decor lacks character. | 8 rue duPlâtre, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–42–78–47–22 | www.vieuxmarais.com | 30 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi | MC, V | Station: Hôtel de Ville

Hôtel Saint Louis.

$$ | The location on the Ile St-Louis is the real draw of this modest hotel, which retains many of its original 17th-century stone walls and wooden beams. Tiny balconies on the upper levels have Seine views. Number 51 has a tear-shape tub and a peek at the Panthéon. Breakfast is served in the vaulted stone cellar. Pros: romantic location on the tiny island Ile St-Louis; ancient architectural details; air-conditioning. Cons: the location makes the price high; métro stations are across the bridge; small rooms. | 75 rueSt-Louis-en-l’Ile | 75004 | 01–46–34–04–80 | www.hotelsaintlouis.com | 19 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: some pets allowed | MC, V | Station: Pont Marie

Hôtel Saint-Louis Marais.

$$ | Once an annex to a local convent, this 18th-century hotel has retained its stone walls and beams while adding red-clay tile floors and antiques. A wooden-banister stair leads to the small but proper rooms, decorated with basic red carpet and green bedspreads. (Those with heavy luggage, beware: no elevator.) One room is equipped with a kitchenette. The hotel’s in Village St-Paul, a little tangle of medieval lanes just south of the well-traveled Marais that has an excellent English-language bookstore and is not yet overrun by tourists. Pros: quiet area of the Marais within walking distance of the islands and Bastille; historic Parisian character; Wi-Fi. Cons: no elevator; small rooms with outdated decor. | 1 rue Charles V, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–48–87–87–04 | www.saintlouismarais.com | 19 rooms | In-room: no a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: laundry service, Internet terminal, parking (paid), some pets allowed | DC, MC, V | Station: Sully Morland, Bastille

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Saint-Merry.

$$–$$$ | Due south of the Pompidou Center is this small and stunning Gothic hideaway, once the presbytery of the adjacent Saint Merry church. In its 17th-century stone interior you can gaze through stained glass, relax on a church pew, or lean back on a headboard recycled from an old Catholic confessional. With a massive hardwood table, fireplace, and high ceiling, the suite is fit for a royal council. Room 9 is bisected by stone buttresses still supporting the church. The Saint Merry’s lack of an elevator and 21st-century temptations like TV is also in keeping with its ascetic past. Pros: unique medieval character; central location on a pedestrian street full of cafés and shops. Cons: no amenities; street-facing rooms can be too noisy to open windows in summer. | 78 rue de la Verrerie, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 75004 | 01–42–78–14–15 | www.hotelmarais.com | 11 rooms, 1 suite | In-room: no a/c (some), safe, no TV (some), Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, laundry service, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | Station: Châtelet, Hôtel de Ville

5E ARRONDISSEMENT (LATIN QUARTER)

Hôtel Collège de France.

$ | Exposed-stone walls, wooden beams, and medieval artwork echo the style of the Musée Cluny, two blocks from this small, family-run hotel. Rooms convey a less elaborate, more streamlined aesthetic than the lobby and are relatively quiet owing to the side-street location. Number 62, on the top floor, costs a bit more but has a small balcony with superb views. Pros: walking distance to major Rive Gauche sights and the islands; free Wi-Fi; good value. Cons: big difference between renovated and unrenovated rooms; no air-conditioning; thin walls between rooms. | 7 rueThénard, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–43–26–78–36 | www.hotel-collegedefrance.com | 29 rooms | In-room: no a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Maubert-Mutualité, St-Michel–Cluny–La Sorbonne

Hôtel des Jardins du Luxembourg.

$$ | Blessed with a personable staff and a smart, stylish look, this hotel, on an unbelievably calm cul-de-sac just a block from the Luxembourg Gardens, is an oasis for contemplation. A cheery hardwood-floor lobby with fireplace leads to smallish rooms furnished with wrought-iron beds, puffy duvets, and contemporary bathrooms. Ask for one with a balcony, or request one of the larger ground-floor rooms with private entrance directly onto the street. Pros: quiet street close to gardens; nice decor; hot buffet breakfast; close to RER station to airport or Eurostar. Cons: extra charge to use Wi-Fi; some very small rooms; weak air-conditioning. | 5 impasse Royer-Collard | 75005 | 01–40–46–08–88 | www.les-jardins-du-luxembourg.com | 26 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-FiIn-hotel: laundry service | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: RER: Luxembourg

Hôtel Familia.

$–$$ | Owners Eric and Sylvie continue to update and improve their popular budget hotel without raising the prices. They’ve added custom-carved wooden furniture from Brittany, new carpeting, and antique tapestries and prints on the walls. The second and fifth floors have balconies (some with views of Notre-Dame) and all of the rooms are soundproofed from traffic below, though noise between rooms can be loud. Pros: attentive, friendly service; great value; has all the modern conveniences. Cons: on a busy street; some rooms are small; noise between rooms can be loud. | 11 rue desÉcoles | 75005 | 01–43–54–55–27 | www.hotel-paris-familia.com | 30 rooms | In-room: a/c. In-hotel: laundry service, Wi-Fi, parking (paid) | AE, DC, MC, V | CP | Station: Cardinal-Lemoine

Hôtel Grandes Écoles.

$$ | Guests enter Madame Lefloch’s country-style domain through two massive wooden doors. Distributed among a trio of three-story buildings, rooms have a distinct grandmotherly vibe with flowery wallpaper and lace bedspreads, but are downright spacious for this part of Paris. The Grandes Écoles is legendary for its cobbled interior courtyard and garden, which becomes the second living room and a perfect breakfast spot, weather permitting. Rooms in the “garden” wing are coolest in summer. Pros: large courtyard garden; close to Quartier Latin nightlife spots; good value. Cons: uphill walk from the métro; outdated decor; few amenities. | 75 rue du CardinalLemoine | 75005 | 01–43–26–79–23 | www.hotel-grandes-ecoles.com | 51 rooms | In-room: no a/c, no TV, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, parking (paid), some pets allowed | MC, V | Station: Cardinal Lemoine

Hôtel Marignan.

¢–$ | Paul Keniger, the energetic third-generation owner, has cultivated a convivial atmosphere for independent international travelers. Not to be confused with the hotel of the same name near the Champs-Elysées, this Marignan lies squarely between budget-basic and youth hostel (no TVs or elevator) and offers lots of communal conveniences—a fully stocked kitchen, free laundry machines, and copious tourist information. Rooms are modest (some sleep four or five) but generally large, and bathrooms are clean. It’s a good choice for families. The least expensive rooms share toilets and/or showers. Pros: great value for the location; kitchen and laundry; free Wi-Fi. Cons: no elevator; room phones only take incoming calls; has a bit of a youth-hostel atmosphere. | 13 rue du Sommerard, Quartier Latin | 75005 | 01–43–54–63–81 | www.hotel-marignan.com | 30 rooms, 12 with bath | In-room: no a/c, no TV, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: laundry facilities | MC, V | CP | Station: Maubert Mutualité.

Hôtel Saint-Jacques.

$–$$ | Nearly every wall in this bargain hotel is bedecked with faux-marble and trompe-l’oeil murals. As in many old, independent Paris hotels, each room is unique, but a general 19th-century theme of Second Empire furnishings and paintings dominates, with a Montmartre cabaret theme in the new breakfast room. Wi-Fi is available in the lounge bar. About half the rooms have tiny step-out balconies that give a glimpse of Notre-Dame and the Panthéon. Room 25 has a long, around-the-corner balcony, and No. 16 is popular for its historic ceiling fresco and moldings. Repeat guests get souvenir knickknacks or T-shirts. Pros: unique Parisian decor; close to Quartier Latin sights. Cons: very busy street makes it too noisy to open windows in summer; thin walls between rooms. | 35 rue desÉcoles | 75005 | 01–44–07–45–45 | www.hotel-saintjacques.com | 38 rooms | In-room: no a/c (some), safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, Internet terminal | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Maubert-Mutualité

Les Degrés de Notre Dame.

$$ | On a quiet lane a few yards from the Seine, this diminutive hotel is lovingly decorated with the owner’s flea-market finds. Number 23 is the largest of the lower-price rooms, whereas the more costly No. 24 has more space, wooden floors, and particularly appealing antique furnishings. The most expensive room, No. 501, occupies the entire top floor, with views of Notre-Dame and space for four guests. There’s no elevator, but colorful murals of Parisian scenes decorate the winding stairwell. The shabby-chic Parisian character of the hotel and its French-Moroccan restaurant-bar make this unique establishment charming and unforgettable. Pros: within walking distance of Notre-Dame and Ile St-Louis; attractive location in quiet part of Quartier Latin; popular locals’ restaurant. Cons: no air-conditioning; outdated decor; no elevator. | 10 rue des GrandsDegrés | 75005 | 01–55–42–88–88 | www.lesdegreshotel.com | 10 rooms | In-room: no a/c (some), safe. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, Wi-Fi, no kids under 12 | MC, V | CP | Station: Maubert-Mutualité

Port-Royal Hôtel.

¢ | The spotless rooms and extra-helpful staff at the Port-Royal are well above average for this price range. Just below the Rue Mouffetard market at the edge of the 13e arrondissement, it may be somewhat removed from the action, but the snug antiques-furnished lounge areas, garden courtyard, and rooms with wrought-iron beds make it worth the trip. Rooms at the lower end of the price range are equipped only with sinks (an immaculate shared shower room is in the hallway). Pros: excellent value for the money; attentive service; typical Parisian neighborhood close to two major markets. Cons: not very central; on a busy street; few amenities. | 8 bd. de Port-Royal | 75005 | 01–43–31–70–06 | 46 rooms, 20 with bath/shower | In-room: no a/c, no TV | No credit cards | Station: Les Gobelins

The Five Hôtel.

$$ | Small is beautiful at this tiny design hotel on a quiet street near the Mouffetard market. Rooms combine cozy and high-tech features such as fiber-optic fairy lights above the beds and in the bathrooms, fluffy duvet comforters, original Chinese lacquer artworks, and 400 satellite channels on flat-screen TVs. All rooms have free Wi-Fi and L’Occitane toiletries; the ground-floor suite has a private Jacuzzi patio. The One by the Five apartment-hotel across the street provides a luxurious getaway for a romantic weekend. Pros: stylish design; personalized welcome; quiet side street. Cons: most rooms are too small for excessive baggage; the nearest métro is a 10-minute walk. | 3 rueFlatters | 75005 | 01–43–31–74–21 | www.thefivehotel.com | 24 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, laundry service | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Gobelins

6E ARRONDISSEMENT (ST-GERMAIN)

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Bel-Ami.

$$$$ | Just a stroll from Café de Flore, the Bel-Ami hides its past as an 18th-century textile factory behind veneer furnishings and crisply jacketed staff. You’re immediately hit by the Conran Shop–meets–espresso bar lobby, with club music and a sleek fireplace lounge to match. There’s Wi-Fi throughout, and a fitness center with sauna and Tibetan massage treatment rooms. Rooms lean toward minimalist chic in soothing colors but are transformed often to keep up with the hotel’s young and trendy clientele. It fills up fast when the fashion circus comes to town.Pros: upscale, stylish hotel; central St-Germain-des-Prés location; spacious fitness center and spa. Cons: some guests report loud noise between rooms; some very small rooms in lower price category. | 7–11 rue St-Benoît | 75006 | 01–42–61–53–53 | www.hotel-bel-ami.com | 113 rooms, 2 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, gym, laundry service | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés

Hôtel Bonaparte.

$$–$$$ | The congenial staff makes a stay in this intimate hotel a special treat. Old-fashioned upholsteries and 19th-century furnishings make the relatively spacious rooms feel comfortable and unpretentious. Services may be basic, but the location in the heart of St-Germain is fabulous. Light sleepers should request rooms overlooking the courtyard. Pros: upscale shopping neighborhood; large rooms for the Rive Gauche; newly upgraded air-conditioning. Cons: outdated decor and some tired mattresses. | 61 rueBonaparte | 75006 | 01–43–26–97–37 | www.hotelbonaparte.fr | 29 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, refrigerator, Wi-Fi (some) | MC, V | CP | Station: St-Sulpice

Hôtel d’Aubusson.

$$$$ | The staff greets you warmly at this 17th-century town house and former literary salon. The showpiece is the stunning front lobby spanned by massive beams and headed by a gigantic fireplace. Decked out in rich burgundies, greens, or blues, the bedrooms are filled with Louis XV– and Regency-style antiques and Hermès toiletries; even the smallest rooms are a generous size by Paris standards. Behind the paved courtyard is a second structure with three apartments, which are ideal for families. The hotel’s Café Laurent hosts jazz musicians Thursday through Saturday evenings, and piano on Wednesdays. All returning guests (and new guests who book at least three nights) get VIP treatment such as champagne and flowers on arrival. Pros: central location near shops and market street; live jazz on weekends; personalized welcome. Cons: some of the newer rooms lack character; busy street; bar can be noisy on weekends. | 33 rue Dauphine, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–43–29–43–43 | www.hoteldaubusson.com | 49 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, DVD (some), Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, laundry service, parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Odéon.

Hôtel de l’Abbaye.

$$$ | This hotel on a tranquil side street near St-Sulpice welcomes you with a cobblestone ante-courtyard and vaulted stone entrance. The lobby’s salon bears vestiges of the original 18th-century convent and the spacious garden comes replete with a fountain. Rooms are either a mix of floral and striped fabrics with period furnishings or contemporary minimalist with wood paneling and modern art. All have flat-screen TVs, and upper floors have oak beams and sitting alcoves. Duplexes (split-level suites) have lovely private terraces. Pros: tranquil setting in upscale neighborhood; good value for price. Cons: rooms differ greatly in size and style; some are quite small. | 10 rueCassette | 75006 | 01–45–44–38–11 | www.hotel-abbaye.com | 42 rooms, 4 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, laundry service, Internet terminal | AE, MC, V | CP | Station: St-Sulpice

Hôtel de Nesle.

$ | This one-of-a-kind budget hotel is like a quirky and enchanting dollhouse. Services are bare-bones—no elevator, phones, TVs, or breakfast—but the payoff is in the snug rooms cleverly decorated by theme. Sleep in Notre-Dame de Paris, lounge in an Asian-style boudoir, spend the night with writer Molière, or steam it up in Le Hammam. Decorations include colorful murals, canopy beds, and custom lamps. Most rooms overlook an interior garden, and the dead-end-street location keeps the hotel relatively quiet. If you book one of the 11 rooms without a shower, you’ll have to share the one bathroom on the second floor. Pros: unique, fun vibe; good value for chic location; small garden. Cons: few amenities or services; reservations by phone only. | 7 rue deNesle | 75006 | 01–43–54–62–41 | www.hoteldenesleparis.com | 20 rooms, 9 with bath | In-room: no a/c, no phone, no TV, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: Internet terminal, some pets allowed | MC, V | Station: Odéon

Hôtel du Lys.

$–$$ | To jump into an inexpensive Parisian fantasy, just climb the stairway to your room (there’s no elevator) in this former 17th-century royal residence. Well maintained by Madame Steffen, the endearingly odd-shape guest rooms have tiny nooks, weathered antiques, and exposed beams. It may be modest, but it’s extremely atmospheric. Breakfast is served in the lobby or in your room. Pros: central location on a quiet side street; historic character. Cons: old-fashioned decoration is decidedly outdated; perfunctory service; no air-conditioning. | 23 rueSerpente | 75006 | 01–43–26–97–57 | www.hoteldulys.com | 22 rooms | In-room: no a/c, safe. In-hotel: some pets allowed | MC, V | CP | Station: St-Michel, Odéon

Hôtel Millésime.

$$$ | Step through the doors of this St-Germain-des-Prés hotel and you’ll feel transported to the sunny south of France. Rooms in this 17th-century city mansion are decorated in warm reds, yellows, and royal blues, with rich fabrics and sparkling tiled bathrooms. The centerpiece is the gorgeous Provençal courtyard with ocher walls and wrought-iron balconies (Room 15 has direct access). Friendly service and a bountiful buffet breakfast make this a great find.Pros: upscale shopping location; young, friendly staff; well-appointed rooms. Cons: ground floor rooms can be noisy; larger rooms are significantly more expensive. | 15 rueJacob | 75006 | 01–44–07–97–97 | www.millesimehotel.com | 20 rooms, 1 suite | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, laundry service, Internet terminal, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | CP | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Odéon Saint-Germain.

$$$$ | The exposed stone walls and original wooden beams give this 16th-century building typical Left Bank character, and designer Jacques Garcia’s generous use of striped taffeta curtains, velvet upholstery, and plush carpeting imbues the family-run hotel with the distinct luxury of St-Germain-des-Prés. Several small rooms decorated with comfy armchairs and Asian antiques make up the lobby, where guests can help themselves to a continental buffet breakfast in the morning and an honesty bar throughout the day. Rooms are decorated in eggplant and caramel, with flat-screen TVs and designer toiletries. The ones overlooking the street have more space and double windows for soundproofing. Pros: warm welcome; free Internet; luxuriously appointed, historic building in an upscale shopping district. Cons: small rooms aren’t convenient for those with extra-large suitcases. | 13 rue St-Sulpice | 01–43–25–70–11 | www.paris-hotel-odeon.com | 22 rooms, 5 junior suites | In-room: safe, Wi-Fi. In hotel: a/c, room service, bar, laundry service, Internet terminal, some pets allowed | DC, MC, V | Station: Odeon

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Relais St-Sulpice.

$$$ | A savvy clientele frequents this fashionable little hotel sandwiched between St-Sulpice and the Jardin du Luxembourg. Eclectic art objects and furnishings, some with an Asian theme, oddly pull off a unified look. A zebra-print stuffed armchair sits beside an Art Deco desk, and an African mud cloth hangs above a neo-Roman pillar. The rooms themselves, set around an ivy-clad courtyard, are understated, with Provençal fabrics, carved wooden furnishings, and sisal carpeting. Downstairs there’s a sauna and a glass-roofed breakfast salon. Room 11 has a terrific view of St-Sulpice. Pros: chic location; close to two métro stations; bright breakfast room and courtyard; good value. Cons: smallish rooms in the lower category; noise from the street on weekend evenings. | 3 rueGarancière | 75006 | 01–46–33–99–00 | www.relais-saint-sulpice.com | 26 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: laundry service | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés, St-Sulpice

L’Hôtel.

$$$$ | Why do rock stars love this eccentric and opulent boutique hotel? Though sophisticated in every way, there’s something just a bit naughty in the air. Is it its history as an 18th-century pavillion d’amour (inn for trysts)? Is it that Oscar Wilde permanently checked out in Room 16, back in 1900? Or is it Jacques Garcia’s makeover—rooms done in yards of thick, rich fabrics in colors like deep red and emerald green? We say all of the above, plus the intimate bar and restaurant allows guests to mingle with the Parisian beau monde.A grotto holds a countercurrent pool and a steam room. Pros: luxurious decor; elegant bar and restaurant; walking distance to the Orsay and the Louvre. Cons: some rooms are very small for the price; closest métro station is a few blocks’ walk. | 13 rue des Beaux-Arts, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–44–41–99–00 | www.l-hotel.com | 16 rooms, 4 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, bar, pool, laundry service, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.

Relais Christine.

$$$$ | This exquisite property was once a 13th-century abbey, but don’t expect monkish quarters. You enter from the impressive stone courtyard into a lobby and fireside honor bar done up in rich fabrics, stone, wood paneling, and antiques. The cavernous breakfast room and adjacent fitness center flaunt their vaulted medieval stonework. The spacious, high-ceiling rooms (many spanned by massive beams) offer a variety of classical and contemporary styles: Asian-theme wall fabrics or plain stripes, rich aubergine paints or regal scarlet-and-gold. Split-level lofts house up to five people, and several ground-level rooms open onto a lush garden with private patios and heaters. Pros: quiet location while still close to the action; historic character; luxuriously appointed rooms. Cons: some guests report noise from doors on the street; no on-site restaurant. | 3 rueChristine | 75006 | 01–40–51–60–80, 800/525–4800 in U.S. | www.relais-christine.com | 33 rooms, 18 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, DVD (some), Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, gym, spa, laundry service, Internet terminal, parking (free), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Odéon

7E ARRONDISSEMENT (TOUR EIFFEL/INVALIDES)

Hôtel Duc de Saint-Simon.

$$$$ | If it’s good enough for the notoriously choosy Lauren Bacall, you’ll probably fall for the Duc’s charms, too. Its hidden location between Boulevard St-Germain and Rue du Bac is one plus; another is the shady courtyard entry. Rooms in pastels teem with antiques and countrified floral and striped fabrics. Four rooms have spacious terraces overlooking the courtyard. The 16th-century basement lounge is a warren of stone alcoves with a zinc bar and plush seating. To keep the peace, children aren’t welcome. Pros: upscale neighborhood close to St-Germain-des-Prés; historic character. Cons: rooms in the annex are smaller and have no elevator; no air-conditioning; some worn decor. | 14 rue St-Simon, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75007 | 01–44–39–20–20 | www.hotelducdesaintsimon.com | 29 rooms, 5 suites | In-room: no a/c (some), safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: bar, laundry service, parking (paid), no kids under 10 | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Rue du Bac

Hôtel du Champ de Mars.

$ | This hotel just off Rue Cler has an appealing down-home feel, with a vibrant Provençal-inspired lobby and huge picture windows overlooking the street. Country-style wood furnishings and crisp fabric chair covers decorate each room. The two on the ground floor open onto a leafy private courtyard. Pros: cozy country decor; good value; walking distance to Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides. Cons: smallish rooms; no air-conditioning. | 7 rue du Champ de Mars, Invalides | 75007 | 01–45–51–52–30 | www.hotelduchampdemars.com | 25 rooms | In-room: no a/c, safe, Wi-Fi | MC, V | Station: Ecole Militaire.

Hôtel Eiffel Rive Gauche.

$$ | On a quiet street near the Tour Eiffel, this bright and welcoming hotel is a good budget find. The rooms are small but comfortable, with modern wood furnishings and orange and gold walls. Many of them open directly onto the Tuscan-style patio with its verdigris railings and terra-cotta tiles. Fans are available in summer. The owner, Monsieur Chicheportiche, is a multilingual encyclopedia of Paris. Pros: close to the Eiffel Tower; bright and cheery decor; fans in summer. Cons: no air-conditioning; some noise between rooms; big difference in room sizes. | 6 rue du GrosCaillou | 75007 | 01–45–51–24–56 | www.hotel-eiffel.com | 29 rooms | In-room: no a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: laundry service, Internet terminal | MC, V | Station: École Militaire

Hôtel Le Tourville.

$$$ | Here is a rare find: a cozy upscale hotel that doesn’t cost a fortune. Each room has crisp, milk-white damask upholstery set against pastel or ocher walls, a smattering of antique bureaus and lamps, original artwork, and fabulous old mirrors. The junior suites have hot tubs, whereas the Superior room has its own private garden terrace. The staff couldn’t be more helpful. Pros: close to the Eiffel Tower and Invalides; attentive service; soundproofed windows. Cons: no shower curtains for the bathtubs; air-conditioning only in summer. | 16 av. deTourville | 75007 | 01–47–05–62–62 | www.hoteltourville.com | 27 rooms, 3 suites | In-room: a/c, safe (some), Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, laundry service, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: École Militaire

Le Bellechasse.

$$$$ | French designer Christian Lacroix helped decorate all 34 rooms of Le Bellechasse, which is just around the corner from the popular Musée d’Orsay. Guests enter a refreshingly bright lobby of black slate floors, white walls, and mismatched velour and leather armchairs. Floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the elegant patio courtyard. Each room design is unique, but all have an eclectic mix of fabrics, textures, and colors, as well as Lacroix’s whimsical characters screened on the walls and ceilings. Most guest rooms have an open-concept bathroom, with the bathtub and sink in a corner and a separate toilet. Four rooms have doors leading to the patio courtyard. Pros: central location near top Paris museums; unique style; spacious and bright; Anne Semonin toiletries. Cons: street-facing rooms can be a bit noisy. | 8 rue deBellechasseInvalides | 75007 | 01–45–50–22–31 | www.lebellechasse.com | 34 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Internet, Wi-Fi | AE, DC, V | Station: Solferino

8E ARRONDISSEMENT (CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES)

Fodor’s Choice | Four Seasons Hôtel George V Paris.

$$$$ | The George V is as poised and polished as the day it opened in 1928: the original Art Deco detailing and 17th-century tapestries have been restored, the bas-reliefs regilded, the marble-floor mosaics rebuilt tile by tile. Rooms are decked in fabrics and Louis XVI trimmings but have homey touches like selections of CDs and French books. Le Cinq restaurant is one of Paris’s hottest tables, and the business center has six working stations with computers and printers. The low-lighted spa and fitness center pampers guests with 11 treatment rooms, walls covered in toile de Jouy fabrics, and an indoor swimming pool evoking Marie-Antoinette’s Versailles. A relaxation room is available for guests who arrive before their rooms are ready. Even children get the four-star treatment with personalized T-shirts and portable DVD players to distract them at dinnertime. Pros: in the couture shopping district; courtyard dining in the summer; guest-only indoor swimming pool. Cons: several blocks from the nearest métro; lacks the intimacy of smaller boutique hotels. | 31 av. George V | 75008 | 01–49–52–70–00, 800/332–3442 in U.S. | www.fourseasons.com/paris | 184 rooms, 61 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, kitchen (some), DVD, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, room service, bar, pool, gym, spa, children’s programs (ages 1–12), laundry service, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: George V

Hôtel Fouquet’s Barrière.

$$$$ | This luxury hotel opened in 2006 above the legendary Fouquet’s Brasserie at the corner of the Champs-Elysées and Avenue George V. The design, by Jacques Garcia, is more refined retro than opulent, with a rich neutral palette in silk, mahogany, velvet, and leather. The hotel competes with Parisian palaces by offering 24-hour butler service and plasma TV screens hidden behind mirrors and above bathtubs. Le Diane restaurant offers a more feminine atmosphere than the brasserie, and the teak- and red-walled spa claims to have the largest indoor pool in Paris. Pros: many rooms overlooking the Champs-Elysées; bathroom TVs; métro right outside. Cons: anonymous decor; busy street can be noisy; expensive part of town. | 46 av. GeorgeV | 75008 | 01–40–69–60–00 | www.fouquets-barriere.com | 107 rooms, 40 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, DVD, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, room service, bar, pool, gym, spa, laundry service, parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: George V.

Hôtel Le Bristol.

$$$$ | The Bristol ranks among Paris’s most exclusive hotels and has the prices to prove it. Some of the spacious and elegant rooms have authentic Louis XV and Louis XVI furniture and marble bathrooms in pure 1920s Art Deco; others have a more relaxed 19th-century style. The public salons are stocked with old-master paintings and sculptures, and sumptuous carpets and tapestries. The huge interior garden restaurant and monthly fashion shows in the bar draw the posh and wealthy. A lounge bar and a casual brasserie overlook the Faubourg St-Honoré. Pros: large interior garden; luxury shopping street. Cons: a few blocks from the nearest métro, old-fashioned atmosphere may not be for everyone. | 112 rue du FaubourgSt-Honoré | 75008 | 01–53–43–43–00 | www.hotel-bristol.com | 162 rooms, 73 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, DVD, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, bar, pool, gym, spa, laundry service, Wi-Fi, parking (free), some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Miromesnil

Hôtel Mathis Elysées Matignon.

$$$$ | Each room in this boutique hotel has been lovingly decorated with antiques and artworks. Leopard-print carpets, rich aubergine, slate, and mustard walls, and Baroque mirrors make for an eclectic look. Room 43 has a sexy boudoir style, and the top-floor suite has a modern pop-art look. The Mathis’s restaurant is owned separately from the hotel, but shares an entrance. Pros: a block from the Champs-Elysées and Faubourg St-Honoré; large choice in decor of rooms; free Wi-Fi. Cons: some noise from street and bar downstairs; small closets; few services. | 3 rue de Ponthieu, Champs-Elysées | 75008 | 01–42–25–73–01 | www.paris-inn.com | 23 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, laundry service, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.

Hôtel Plaza-Athenée.

$$$$ | Prime-time stardom as Carrie Bradshaw’s Parisian pied-à-terre in the final episodes of Sex and the City boosted the street cred of this 1911 palace hotel. Its revival as the city’s lap of luxury, however, owes more to the meticulous attention of the renowned chef Alain Ducasse, who oversees everything from the hotel’s flagship restaurant and restored 1930s Relais Plaza brasserie to the quality of the breakfast croissants. Rooms have been redone in Regency, Louis XVI, or Art Deco style, with remote-control air-conditioning, mini hi-fi/CD players, and even a pillow menu. The trendy bar has as its centerpiece an impressive Bombay glass comptoir (counter) glowing like an iceberg. Pros: on a luxury shopping street; new Dior spa; Eiffel Tower views; special attention to children. Cons: vast difference in style of rooms; easy to feel anonymous in such a large hotel. | 25 av.Montaigne | 75008 | 01–53–67–66–65, 866/732–1106 in U.S. | www.plaza-athenee-paris.com | 145 rooms, 43 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, DVD, Internet. In-hotel: 3 restaurants, room service, bar, spa, laundry service, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Alma-Marceau

Hôtel Queen Mary.

$$$ | This cheerfully cozy hotel is two blocks from Place de la Madeleine and Paris’s famous department stores. Sunny yellow walls, plush carpeting, and fabrics in burgundy, gold, and royal blue soften the regal architectural detailing and high ceilings. Rooms are handsomely appointed with large beds and such thoughtful extras as trouser presses, Roger & Gallet toiletries, and decanters of sherry. Guests mingle in the bar during happy hour and, in good weather, enjoy breakfast in the garden courtyard. Pros: close to high-end shopping streets and department stores; large beds; extra-attentive service. Cons: some rooms are quite snug; ones on the ground floor can be noisy. | 9 rue Greffulhe | 75008 | 01–42–66–40–50 | www.hotelqueenmary.com | 35 rooms, 1 suite | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, laundry service, some pets allowed | MC, V | Station: Madeleine, St-Lazare, Havre Caumartin

Pershing Hall.

$$$$ | Formerly an American Legion hall, this circa-2001 boutique hotel quickly became a must-stay address for the dressed-in-black pack. Designed by Andrée Putman, Pershing Hall champions masculine minimalism, with muted surfaces of wood and stone and cool attitudes to match. Rooms have stark white linens, slender tubelike hanging lamps, and tubs perched on round marble bases. The only trace of lightheartedness is the free minibars. Deluxe rooms and suites face the courtyard dining room, whose west wall is a six-story hanging garden with 300 varieties of plants. The lounge bar serves drinks, dinner, and DJ-driven music until 2AM. Pros: prime shopping and nightlife district; bar and restaurant frequented by hip locals; in-room DVD players. Cons: bar noise can be heard in some rooms; expensive neighborhood. | 49 rue Pierre-Charron, Champs-Elysées | 75008 | 01–58–36–58–00 | www.pershinghall.com | 20 rooms, 6 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, DVD, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, bar, gym, spa, laundry service, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: George V, Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.

9E ARRONDISSEMENT (OPÉRA)

Hôtel Amour.

$$ | The hipster team behind this designer boutique hotel just off the trendy Rue des Martyrs already counts among its fiefdoms some of the hottest hotels, bars, and nightclubs in Paris. But despite the cool factor and the funky rooms individually decorated by Parisian avant-garde artists, the prices remain democratically bohemian. Of course, there are few amenities, but there is a 24-hour retro brasserie and garden terrace in the back where locals come to hang out in warmer weather. It’s best to take the kids elsewhere; vintage nudie magazines decorate, and the sex shops of Pigalle are blocks away. Pros: hip clientele and locals at the brasserie; close to Montmartre; garden dining in summer. Cons: few amenities; a few blocks from the nearest métro; close to red-light district. | 8 rue Navarin, Montmartre | 75009 | 01–48–78–31–80 | www.hotelamour.com | 20 rooms | In-room: no a/c, no phone, no TV. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, bar, laundry service, Wi-Fi, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Pigalle

Hôtel Chopin.

$ | The Chopin recalls its 1846 birth date with a creaky-floored lobby and aged woodwork. The basic but comfortable rooms overlook the Passage Jouffroy’s quaint toy shops and bookstores or the rooftops of Paris, but none face the busy nearby streets. The best rooms end in “7” (No. 407 overlooks the Grévin Wax Museum’s ateliers), whereas those ending in “2” tend to be darkest and smallest (but cheapest). Pros: unique location; close to major métro station; great nightlife district. Cons: neighborhood can be noisy; some rooms are dark and cramped; few amenities. | 10 bd. Montmartre, 46 passage Jouffroy, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75009 | 01–47–70–58–10 | www.hotelchopin.com | 36 rooms | In-room: no a/c, safe | AE, MC, V | Station: Grands Boulevards.

Hôtel George Sand.

$$$ | This family-run boutique hotel where the 19th-century writer George Sand once lived is fresh and modern, while preserving some original architectural details. Rooms have tea/coffee-making trays and high-tech comforts such as complimentary high-speed Internet and cordless phones. Bathrooms are decked out in yacht-inspired wood flooring, with Etro toiletries. Pros: next door to two department stores; historic atmosphere; free Internet. Cons: noisy street; some rooms are quite small. | 26 ruedes Mathurins | 75009 | 01–47–42–63–47 | www.hotelgeorgesand.com | 20 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, laundry service | AE, MC, V | Station: Havre Caumartin

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Langlois.

$$ | After starring in The Truth About Charlie (a remake of Charade), this darling hotel gained a reputation as one of the most atmospheric budget sleeps in the city. Rates have crept up, but the former circa-1870 bank retains its beautiful wood-panel reception area and wrought-iron elevator. The individually decorated and spacious rooms are decked out with original glazed-tile fireplaces and period art. Some rooms, such as Nos. 15, 21, and 41, have enormous retro bathrooms. Street-facing rooms can be noisy, but the top-floor views over the rooftops make up for it. Pros: excellent views from the top floor; close to department stores and Opéra Garnier; historic decor. Cons: noisy street; off the beaten path; some sagging furniture. | 63 rue St-Lazare, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75009 | 01–48–74–78–24 | www.hotel-langlois.com | 24 rooms, 3 suites | In-room: a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: Internet terminal, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | Station: Trinité

Hôtel Royal Fromentin.

$$ | At the border of Montmartre’s now tamed red-light district sits this former cabaret with much of its Art Deco wood paneling and theatrical trappings intact. Prices are at the low end of its category. The hotel has dark, rich decor, with green walls, red armchairs, an antique caged elevator, and vaudeville posters in the stained-glass-ceiling lounge. Reproduction furniture, antique prints and oils, and busy modern fabrics fill out the larger-than-average rooms. Some windows face Sacré-Coeur. Guests receive a complimentary book illustrating the history of absinthe, which is once again served in the hotel’s historic bar. Pros: spacious rooms for the price; historic absinthe bar; close to Sacré-Coeur. Cons: some guests may find neighborhood peep shows and sex shops disturbing; far from the center of Paris. | 11 rueFromentin | 75009 | 01–48–74–85–93 | www.hotelroyalfromentin.com | 47 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, laundry service, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Blanche

11E ARRONDISSEMENT (BASTILLE)

Hôtel Beaumarchais.

$$ | This bold hotel straddles the fashionable Marais district in the 3e and the hip student and artist neighborhood of Oberkampf in the 11e. Brightly colored vinyl armchairs, an industrial metal staircase, and glass tables mark the lobby, which hosts monthly art exhibitions. Out back, a small courtyard is decked in hardwood, a look you’ll rarely see in Paris. The rooms hum with primary reds and yellows, some with Keith Haring prints. Kaleidoscopes of ceramic fragments tile the bathrooms. Pros: free Internet; popular nightlife district; bright and colorful. Cons: smallish rooms; off the beaten tourist track. | 3 rueOberkampf | 75011 | 01–53–36–86–86 | www.hotelbeaumarchais.com | 31 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | Station: Filles du Calvaire, Oberkampf

Hôtel Résidence Alhambra.

$ | The white facade, rear garden, and flower-filled window boxes brighten this lesser-known neighborhood between the Marais and Rue Oberkampf. Rooms are smallish (splurge for a triple, just €116), with modern furnishings and run-of-the-mill bedspreads and drapes. Some overlook the flowery courtyard. There is a free Internet station in the lobby, and five métro lines are around the corner. Pros: bright and colorful; popular nightlife district. Cons: small doubles; long walk to the center of town; no air-conditioning. | 13 rue deMalte | 75011 | 01–47–00–35–52 | www.hotelalhambra.fr | 58 rooms | In-room: no a/c. In-hotel: Internet terminal, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Oberkampf

12E ARRONDISSEMENT (BASTILLE/GARE DE LYON)

Hôtel Lyon-Bastille.

$$ | This cozy, family-run hotel is just a block from the Gare de Lyon and has been open since 1903. Its turn-of-the-20th-century pedigree shows up in its curves and alcoves, and tall French windows let in plenty of light. The rooms have been done up in pale blues and lilacs, and have satellite TV and free Wi-Fi. The Marché Aligre and Viaduc des Arts artisan boutiques are just a few blocks away. Pros: easy access to major métro and train lines; free Wi-Fi; friendly welcome. Cons: outdated decor; noisy traffic area; tiny elevator. | 3 rue Parrot, Bastille/Nation | 75012 | 01–43–43–41–52 | www.hotellyonbastille.com | 47 rooms, 1 suite | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. | AE, DC, MC, V | Station:  Gare de Lyon

16E ARRONDISSEMENT (ARC DE TRIOMPHE/LE BOIS)

Hôtel Raphael.

$$$$ | This discreet palace hotel was built in 1925 to cater to travelers spending a season in Paris, so every space is generously sized for such long, lavish stays—the closets, for instance, have room for ball gowns and plumed hats. Guest rooms, most with king-size beds, are turned out in 18th- and early-19th-century antiques and have 6-foot windows, Oriental rugs, silk damask wallpaper, chandeliers, and ornately carved wood paneling. Bathrooms are remarkably large; most have claw-foot bathtubs and separate massage-jet showers. The roof terrace, topped with a summer restaurant, has a panoramic view of the city, with the Arc de Triomphe looming in the foreground. Parents will find a friend in the concierge, who can arrange for bilingual babysitters and priority access to amusement parks, and offers recommendations on kid-friendly restaurants and entertainment. Pros: a block from the Champs-Élysées and Arc de Triomphe; rooftop garden terrace; cozy hotel bar frequented by locals. Cons: old-fashioned Parisian decor won’t impress fans of minimalism; the neighborhood can feel majestic yet cold. | 17 av.Kléber | 75116 | 01–53–64–32–00 | www.raphael-hotel.com | 52 rooms, 38 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, DVD (some), Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, room service, bar, gym, laundry service, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Kléber

Hôtel Utrillo.

$ | This very likable hotel is on a quiet side street at the foot of Montmartre, near colorful Rue Lepic. The tired old decor is slowly being replaced by a more contemporary style with bold colors and artworks. Two rooms (Nos. 61 and 63) have views of the Tour Eiffel. In the lobby are two free Internet stations, and the sauna is a luxury at this price. Pros: family-run feel; some Eiffel Tower views; free Internet. Cons: no air-conditioning; some street noise. | 7 rueAristide-Bruant | 75018 | 01–42–58–13–44 | www.hotel-paris-utrillo.com | 30 rooms | In-room: no a/c, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: Internet terminal, some pets allowed | MC, V | Station: Abbesses, Blanche

Les Jardins du Trocadéro.

$$$$ | This hotel near Trocadéro and the Eiffel Tower blends old-style French elegance (period antiques, Napoleonic draperies, classical plaster busts) with modern conveniences (DVDs, flat-screen TVs, free Wi-Fi). Wall paintings of genies and dressed-up monkeys add a fanciful dash. Beds are large—either kings or queens—and have hypoallergenic bedding and mattresses. Marble bathrooms have whirlpool tubs. Pros: hillside views over the Eiffel Tower; free Wi-Fi; upscale residential district. Cons: not an easy walk to the center of town; some rooms are rather small and cramped; room service doesn’t always speak English. | 35 rueBenjamin-Franklin | 75116 | 01–53–70–17–70, 800/246–0041 in U.S. | www.jardintroc.com | 20 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, DVD (some), Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, bar, laundry service, parking (paid) | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Trocadéro

Mon Hotel.

$$$$ | Contemporary design and modern comforts, two blocks from the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Élysées, are big draws for this stylish boutique hotel. The lobby is dramatic, whereas the rooms are more comforting with chamois wall coverings, neutral tones, and black-and-white portraits of famous personalities. High-tech amenities include MP3 docking stations and Nespresso machines, and more than 1,000 satellite TV stations. Pros: free Wi-Fi; unique contemporary decor; convenient for walking to the Champs-Élysées. Cons: some rooms have limited closet space; no extra beds for children; inconvenient for walking to the center of Paris. | 1 rue Argentine, Champs-Élysées | 75116 | 01–45–02–76–76 | www.monhotel.fr | 37 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, spa | AE, MC, V | Station: Argentine.

Queen’s Hôtel.

$$ | One of only a handful of hotels in the tony residential district near the Bois de Boulogne, the Queen’s is a small, comfortable, old-fashioned place with a high standard of service. It bills itself an hôtel-musée, because it contains works by contemporary French artists such as René Julian and Maurice Friedman, whose paintings hang in the rooms and public areas. Guest rooms pair contemporary and older furnishings and have large mirrors and spotless tiled bathrooms, many with jetted tubs. Pros: unique artsy atmosphere; charming shopping street; friendly welcome. Cons: not so convenient for getting around the city on foot; vast difference in quality of room decor. | 4 rueBastien-Lepage, Passy-Auteuil | 75016 | 01–42–88–89–85 | www.queens-hotel.fr | 21 rooms, 1 suite | In-room: a/c, safe, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Michel-Ange Auteuil

20E ARRONDISSEMENT

Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Mama Shelter.

$ | The heir to the Club Med empire has decided to do for the hotel industry what jeans did for fashion: democratize style. Opened in fall 2008 in the up-and-coming 20e district close to Père Lachaise cemetery, this spanking new hotel is immense by Paris standards, with a fun and funky interior designed by Philippe Starck. Rooms have kitchenettes with microwave, Kiehl’s toiletries, and wireless Internet via flat-screen TVs; many have huge balconies. The spacious restaurant-bar-lounge is open to the public, and guests can rent electric scooters and cars. The popular Fleche d’Or nightclub is across the street and Roissy-CDG airport just a quick drive. Pros: trendy design; easy access to airport; good value. Cons: on the edge of Paris; club across the street can be noisy. | 109 rue deBagnolet | 75020 | 01–43–48–48–48 | www.mamashelter.com | 172 rooms | In-room: a/c, safe, kitchen, DVD, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, laundry service, Internet terminal, parking (paid), some pets allowed | AE, MC, V

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The Arts | Nightlife

With a heritage that includes the cancan, the Folies-Bergère, the Moulin Rouge, Mistinguett, and Josephine Baker, Paris is one city where no one has ever had to ask, “Is there any place exciting to go to tonight?” Today the city’s nightlife and arts scenes are still filled with pleasures. Hear a chansonnier belt out Piaf, take in a Victor/Victoria show, catch a Molière play at the Comédie Française, or perhaps spot the latest supermodel at Johnny Depp’s Mandala Ray. Detailed entertainment listings in French can be found in the weekly magazines Pariscope (www.pariscope.fr) and L’Officiel des Spectacles, available at newsstands and in bookstores; in the Wednesday entertainment insert “Figaroscope,” in Le Figaro newspaper (scope.lefigaro.fr/guide); and in the weekly “A Nous Paris,” distributed free in the métro. Also look for the Webzine Paris Voice (www.parisvoice.com). The Web site of the Paris Tourist Office (08–92–68–30–00 in English [€0.34min] | www.parisinfo.com) has theater and music listings in English.

The best place to buy tickets is at the venue itself; try to purchase in advance, as many of the more popular performances sell out. Also try your hotel or a ticket agency, such as www.theatreonline.com. FNAC (www.fnacspectacles.com) and Virgin (www.virginmega.fr) superstores sell tickets in-store and online. The FNAC at Les Halles has a large board listing major concerts. | 1–5 rue Pierre Lescot, Forum des Halles, 3rd level down, Beaubourg/Les Halles, 1er | 75001 | 08–92–68–36–22 | Station: Châtelet–Les Halles. Half-price tickets for many same-day theater performances are available at some venues and at the Kiosques Théâtre (Across from 15 pl. de la Madeleine, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | Station: Madeleine | Outside Gare Montparnasse on Pl. Raoul Dautry, Montparnasse, 15e | 75014 | www.kiosquetheatre.com | Station: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe); open Tuesday–Saturday 12:30 PM–8 PM and Sunday 12:30 PM–4 PM. Expect to pay a €3 commission per ticket and to wait in line. Half-price tickets are also available at many private theaters during the first week of each new show, and inexpensive tickets are often available at the last minute.

THE ARTS

EARLY AND CLASSICAL MUSIC

Classical- and world-music concerts are held at the Cité de la Musique (221 av. Jean-Jaurès, Parc de la Villette, 19e | 75019 | 01–44–84–45–00 | www.citedelamusique.fr | Station: Porte de Pantin). The Salle Cortot (78 rue Cardinet, Parc Monceau 17e | 75017 | 01–47–63–80–16 | www.ecolenormalecortot.com | Station: Malesherbes) is an acoustic gem hosting jazz and classical concerts; there are free student recitals at noon and 12:30 on Tuesday and Thursday. IRCAM (1 pl. Igor-Stravinsky, Beaubourg/Les Halles 4e | 75004 | 01–44–78–48–43 | www.ircam.fr | Station: Châtelet Les Halles, Hôtel de Ville) organizes contemporary classical music concerts in its own theater and at the Centre Pompidou next door. The newly renovated Salle Pleyel (252 rue du Faubourg–St-Honoré, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–45–61–53–00 | www.sallepleyel.fr | Station: Ternes), features varied musical presentations from international stars like Lionel Hampton to repeat performances by the Orchestre de Paris. The Théâtre des Champs-Élysées (15 av. Montaigne, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–49–52–50–50 | www.theatrechampselysees.fr | Station: Alma-Marceau), an Art Deco temple and famed site of the premiere of Stravinsky’s 1913 Le Sacre du Printemps, hosts concerts and ballet. Many churches hold classical concerts (often free). Check weekly listings and flyers posted at the churches themselves for information. The Web site | www.ampconcerts.com lists the schedule at the lovely Sainte-Chapelle and other historic churches.

DANCE

The biggest news on the French dance scene is the spanking new Centre National de la Danse (1 rue Victor Hugo, | Pantin | 93507 | 01–41–83–98–98 | www.cnd.fr | Station: Hoche; RER: Pantin), which was sidelined by problems for a decade but finally opened in a former jail in the Pantin suburb of Paris. Dedicated to teaching dance, there’s also a regular program of performances, expositions, and conferences open to the public. The super-spectacular 19th-century Opéra Garnier (Pl. de l’Opéra, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 9e | 75009 | 08–92–89–90–90 [€0.34 min] | www.opera-de-paris.fr | Station: Opéra) is home to the reputable Ballet de l’Opéra National de Paris and hosts other dance companies. Note that many of the cheaper seats have obstructed views, more of an obstacle in dance than in opera performances. At its two houses, the Théâtre de la Ville (2 pl. du Châtelet, Beaubourg/Les Halles, 4e | 75004 | 01–42–74–22–77 for both | www.theatredelaville-paris.com | Station: Châtelet | 31 rue des Abbesses, Montmartre, 18e | 75018 | Station: Abbesses) is the place for contemporary dance. Troupes like Anne-Teresa de Keersmaeker’s Rosas company are presented here and sell out quickly.

OPERA

Paris offers some of the best opera in the world—and thousands know it. Consequently, it’s best to plan ahead if you’d like to attend a performance of the Opéra National de Paris at its two homes, the Opéra de la Bastille and the Opéra Garnier. Review a list of performances by checking the Web site | www.opera-de-paris.fr.For performances at either the Opéra de la Bastille or the Opéra Garnier (for complete info on this theater, see Dance, above), seats go on sale at the box office two weeks before any given show or a month ahead by phone or online; you must go in person to buy the cheapest tickets. Last-minute discount tickets, when available, are offered 15 minutes before a performance for seniors and anyone under 28. The box office is open 11 to 6:30 PM daily. Prices for tickets start at €5 for standing places (at the Opéra Bastille, only) and go up to €200.

The Opéra de la Bastille (Pl. de la Bastille, Bastille/Nation, 12e | 75012 | 08–92–89–90–90 [€0.34 min] | www.opera-de-paris.fr | Station: Bastille), a modern auditorium, has taken over the role of Paris’s main opera house from the Opéra Garnier. The grandest opera productions are usually mounted here, while the Garnier now presents smaller-scale operas such as Mozart’s La Clemenza di Tito and Così Fan Tutte. Gorgeous though the Garnier is, its tiara-shape theater means that many seats have limited sight lines, so it’s best to ask specifically what the sight lines are when booking (partial view in French is visibilité partielle). Needless to say, the cheaper seats are often those with partial views—of course, views of Garnier’s house could easily wind up being much more spectacular than any sets on stage, so it’s not really a loss. The opera season usually runs September through July; the box office is open Monday–Saturday 11–6:30.

The Opéra Comique (5 rue Favart, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 2e | 75002 | 08–25–00–00–58 | www.opera-comique.com | Station: Richelieu-Drouot) is a gem of a house that stages operettas, modern dance, classical concerts, and vocal recitals. Tickets range from €6–€50 and can be purchased at the theater, by mail, online, or by phone.

Théâtre Musical de Paris (Pl. du Châtelet, Beaubourg/Les Halles, 1er | 75001 | 01–40–28–28–40 | www.chatelet-theatre.com | Station: Châtelet), better known as the Théâtre du Châtelet, puts on some of the finest opera productions in the city, and regularly attracts international divas like Cecilia Bartoli and Anne-Sofie von Otter. It also plays host to classical concerts, dance performances, and the occasional play.

THEATER

A number of theaters line the Grands Boulevards between Opéra and République, but there’s no Paris equivalent of Broadway or the West End. Shows are mostly in French. English-language theater groups playing in venues throughout Paris include the International Players (www.internationalplayers.info). Broadway-scale singing-and-dancing musicals are generally staged at either the Palais des Sports or the Palais des Congrès.

Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord (37 bis, bd. de la Chapelle, Stalingrad/La Chapelle, 10e | 75010 | 01–46–07–34–50 | Station: La Chapelle) is the wonderfully atmospheric theater that is home to English director Peter Brook. The Comédie-Française (Salle Richelieu, 2 rue de Richelieu, 1er | 75001 | 08–25–10–16–80 | Station: Palais-Royal–Musée du Louvre | Studio Théâtre, Galerie du Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–44–58–98–54 | Station: Palais-Royal | Théâtre du Vieux Colombier, 21 rue Vieux Colombier, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–44–39–87–00 | Station: St-Sulpice) dates from 1680 and is the most hallowed institution in French theater. It specializes in splendid classical French plays by the likes of Racine and Molière. Reserve in advance or line up an hour before showtime for cancellations. The legendary 19th-century Odéon Théâtre de l’Europe (Pl. de l’Odéon, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–44–85–40–00 | Station: Odéon), once home to the Comédie Française, has today made pan-European theater its primary focus. Théâtre National de Chaillot (1 pl. du Trocadéro, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel, 16e | 75016 | 01–53–65–30–00 | Station: Trocadéro) has two theaters dedicated to drama and dance. Since 2003 it has hosted the groundbreaking duo of Deborah Warner (director) and Fiona Shaw (actress) for several excellent English-language productions. Théâtre du Palais-Royal (38 rue Montpensier, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–42–97–40–00 | Station: Palais-Royal) is a sumptuous 750-seat Italian theater bedecked in gold and purple.

For children, one “theatrical” experience can be a delight—the Marionnettes du Jardin du Luxembourg (St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–43–26–46–47 | Station: Vavin) stages the most traditional performances (in French) on most Wednesdays and weekends, including Pinocchio and The Three Little Pigs. Look for the puppet shows in Paris’s other larger parks. Entrance is €3–€4.50.

CIRCUS

Italian Antonio Franconi helped launch the first Cirque Olympique, considered the start of the modern circus, in Paris in 1783—and the French have been hooked ever since. Circus acts are cherished as high art in Paris—for all ages.

For Cirque de Paris (115 bd. Charles-de-Gaulle, | Villeneuve-la-Garenne | 92390 | 92390 | 01–47–99–40–40 | Station: Porte de Clignancourt, then Bus 137) on weekends, reserve ahead for a peek behind the scenes in the morning, lunch with the artists, and a performance in the afternoon. Reservations essential. Cirque d’Hiver Bouglione (110 rue Amelot, 11e, République | 75011 | 75011 | 01–47–00–28–81 | www.cirquedhiver.com | Station: Filles du Calvaire) brings together two famous circus institutions: the beautiful Cirque d’Hiver hall, and the Bouglione troupe, known for its rousing spectacle of acrobats, jugglers, clowns, trapeze artists, tigers, and housecats that leap through rings of fire.

Parc de la Villette (211 av. Jean-Jaurès, LaVillette | 75019 | 75019 | 01–40–03–75–75 | Station: Porte de Pantin) features an Espace Chapiteaux, a high-tech circus tent area that focuses on contemporary performance art—not to be missed by “new circus” fans.

NIGHTLIFE

If you prefer clinking drinks with models and celebrities, check out the Champs-Élysées area, but be prepared to shell out beaucoup bucks and stare down surly bouncers. Easygoing, bohemian-chic revelers can be found in the northeastern districts like Canal St-Martin and Belleville, while students tend to pour into the Bastille, St-Germain-des-Prés, and the Quartier Latin. Grands Boulevards and Rue Montorgueil, just north of Les Halles, is party central for young professionals and the fashion crowd, and the Pigalle and Montmartre areas are always hopping with plenty of theaters, cabarets, bars, and concert venues. Warmer months draw the adventurous to floating clubs and bars, moored along the Seine from Bercy to the Eiffel Tower.

BARS AND CLUBS

American Bar at La Closerie des Lilas (171 bd. du Montparnasse, Montparnasse, 6e | 75006 | 01–40–51–34–50 | Station: Montparnasse) lets you drink in the swirling action of the adjacent restaurant and brasserie at a piano bar hallowed by plaques honoring such former habitués as Man Ray, Jean-Paul Sartre, Samuel Beckett, and Ernest Hemingway, who talks of “the Lilas” in A Moveable Feast. A cherished relic from the days of Picasso and Modigliani, Au Lapin Agile (22 rue des Saules, Montmartre, 18e | 75018 | 01–46–06–85–87 | Station: Lamarck-Caulaincourt), the fabled artists’ hangout in Montmartre, is an authentic survivor from the early 20th century. This is an authentic French cabaret of songs, poetry, and humor in a publike setting.

Bar du Marché (16 rue de Buci, 6eSt-Germain/Buci | 75006 | 01–43–26–55–15 | Station: Mabillon/Odeon) is a local legend where the waiters sport red overalls and revolutionary “Gavroche” hats, and seats on the outdoor terrace are hard to come by.

Barramundi (3 rue Taitbout, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 9e | 75009 | 01–47–70–21–21 | Station: Richelieu Drouot) is one of Paris’s hubs of nouveau-riche chic. The lighting is dim, the copper bar is long, and the walls are artfully textured. The namesake of Buddha Bar (8 rue Boissy d’Anglas, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–53–05–90–00 | Station: Concorde), is past its prime with Parisians, but visitors can’t seem to get enough of the high-camp towering gold Buddha, and a spacious mezzanine bar that, in turn, overlooks a dining room serving pan-Asian fare. Cab (2 pl. du Palais Royal, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–58–62–56–25 | Station: Palais-Royal) is a popular fashion-centric dance club across from the Louvre, where models, photographers, and stylists bypass the lesser beings at the velvet rope. Le Nouveau Casino (109 rue Oberkampf, 11e, République | 75011 | 01–43–57–57–40 | Station: Parmentier) is tucked in the Belle Epoque-meets-bobo Café Charbon. Pop and rock concerts prevail during the week, with DJ spinning everything else on weekend nights from midnight until dawn.

De la Ville Café (34 bd. Bonne Nouvelle, 10e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 75010 | 01–48–24–48–09 | Station: Bonne Nouvelle, Grands Boulevards) is a funky, industrial-baroque place, with its huge, heated sidewalk terrace, mosaic-tile bar, and swish lounge. As the anchor of the slowly reawakening Grands Boulevards scene, it requires that you arrive early on weekends for a seat.

Experimental Cocktail Club (37 rue Saint-Sauveur, 2e, Bourse | 75002 | 01–45–08–88–09 | Station: St-Germain) fashioned itself as a speakeasy on a tiny brick-paved street packed with a diverse mix of locals, professionals, and fashionistas.

Harry’s New York Bar (5 rue Daunou, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 2e | 75002 | 01–42–61–71–14 | Station: Opéra) is a cozy, wood-panel hangout decorated with dusty college pennants; it’s popular with expatriates and American-loving French people who welcome the ghosts of Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald, who drank himself unconscious here. Bartenders mix a mean Bloody Mary. The legendary spot was founded in 1911, and Gershwin composed “An American in Paris” on the piano bar downstairs. Le Gibus (18 rue du Faubourg du Temple, République, 11e | 75011 | 01–47–00–78–88 | Station: République) is one of Paris’s most famous music venues and has hosted everyone from the Police to Billy Idol. Today the Gibus’s cellars are the place for trance, techno, hip-hop, hard-core, and jungle music. Kong ( 1 rue du Pont-Neuf, Rivoli 1er | 75011 | 01–40–39–09–00 | Station:  Pont-Neuf) is glorious not only for its panoramic skyline views, but for its exquisite manga-inspired decor, the top-shelf DJs for weekend dancing, and its kooky, disco-ball-and-kid-sumo-adorned bathrooms. It was featured as a chic eatery in Sex and the City; need we say more? WAGG (62 rue Mazarine, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–55–42–22–00 | Station: Odéon) is tucked beneath the popular bar-resto Alcazar, in a vaulted stone cellar that was Jim Morrison’s hangout back in its ’70s incarnation as the Whiskey-a-Go-Go. It’s now a welcoming dance club featuring vintage disco, funk, groove, and salsa (the latter on Sunday nights, with classes that start at 3 PM), with state-of-the-art sound, lighting, and guest DJs.

FLOOR SHOWS AND CABARET

Paris’s cabarets are household names, though mostly just tourists go to them these days. Prices range from about €30 (admission plus one drink) to more than €130 (dinner plus show).

Crazy Horse (12 av. George V, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–47–23–32–32 | www.lecrazyhorseparis.com | Station: Alma-Marceau) is one of the best-known cabarets, with pretty dancers and raunchy routines characterized by lots of humor and few clothes. Burlesque artist extraordinaire Dita von Teese has been known to perform here. Lido (116 bis, av. des Champs-Élysées, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–40–76–56–10 | www.lido.fr | Station: George V) stars the famous Bluebell Girls; the owners claim that no show this side of Vegas rivals it for special effects. The glitzy cabaret offers a special sanitized kids’ show. Michou (80 rue des Martyrs, Montmartre, 18e | 75018 | 01–46–06–16–04 | www.michou.fr | Station: Pigalle) is owned by the always blue-clad Michou, famous in Paris circles. The men on stage wear extravagant drag—high camp and parody are the order of the day. That old favorite at the foot of Montmartre, Moulin Rouge (82 bd. de Clichy, Montmartre, 18e | 75018 | 01–53–09–82–82 | Station: Blanche) offered a circuslike atmosphere when it opened in 1889; today, the famous cancan is still a popular highlight of what is now more of a Vegas-y show, starring 100 dancers, acrobats, ventriloquists, and contortionists, and more than 1,000 costumes.

HOTEL BARS

Some of Paris’s best hotel bars mix historic pedigrees with hushed elegance—and others go for a modern, edgy luxe. Following are some perennial favorites. The super-chic bar at L’Hôtel (13 rue des Beaux-Arts, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–44–41–99–00 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés) gorgeously revamped by stylemeister Jacques Garcia, evokes the decadent spirit of onetime resident Oscar Wilde. Hôtel Le Bristol (112 rue du Faubourg–St-Honoré, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–53–43–43–42 | Station: Miromesnil) attracts the rich and powerful with fab cocktails, and occasional mini-runway shows at teatime. Hôtel Costes (239 rue Saint-Honoré, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–42–44–50–25 | Station: Tuileries) draws the big names to its exclusive red-velvet interior, and not just during fashion week. Hôtel Plaza Athénée (25 av. Montaigne, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–53–67–66–00 | Station: Alma Marceau) is Paris’s perfect chill-out spot; the bar was designed by Starck protegé Patrick Jouin. Hot–cool Pershing Hall (49 rue Pierre Charron, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–58–36–58–36 | Station: George V) has a stylish lounge bar with muted colors and an enormous “wall garden” in the courtyard. Colin Field, the best barman in Paris, presides at the Hemingway Bar & The Ritz Bar (15 pl. Vendôme, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–43–16–30–30 | Station: Opéra), but with a dress code and cognac aux truffes on the menu, Hemingway might raise an eyebrow. Across the hallway is the reopened Ritz Bar (formerly the Cambon), a soigné setting where Cole Porter composed “Begin the Beguine.”

Murano Urban Resort (13 bd. du Temple, République, 3e | 75003 | 01–42–71–20–00 | Station: Filles du Calvaire) is Paris’s epitome of space-age-bachelor-pad-hipness du jour with a black-stone bar, candy-color walls, and packed nightly with beautiful art and fashion types.

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The Best Shopping Neighborhoods | Department Stores | Markets | Shopping Arcades | Specialty Stores

THE BEST SHOPPING NEIGHBORHOODS

AVENUE MONTAIGNE

Shopping doesn’t come much more chic than on Avenue Montaigne, with its graceful town mansions housing some of the top names in international fashion: Chanel, Dior, Céline, Valentino, Krizia, Ungaro, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and many more. Neighboring Rue François 1er and Avenue George V are also lined with many designer boutiques: Versace, Fendi, Givenchy, and Balenciaga.

CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

Cafés and movie theaters keep the once-chic Champs-Élysées active 24 hours a day, but the invasion of exchange banks, car showrooms, and fast-food chains has lowered the tone. Four glitzy 20th-century arcade malls—Galerie du Lido, Le Rond-Point, Le Claridge, and Élysées 26—capture most of the retail action, not to mention the Gap and the Disney Store. Some of the big luxe chain stores—also found in cities around the globe—are here: Sephora has reintroduced a touch of elegance, and the mothership Louis Vuitton (on the Champs-Élysées proper) has kept the cool factor soaring.

THE FAUBOURG ST-HONORÉ

This chic shopping and residential area is also quite a political hub. It’s home to the Élysée Palace as well as the official residences of the American and British ambassadors. The Paris branches of Sotheby’s and Christie’s and renowned antiques galleries such as Didier Aaron add artistic flavor. Boutiques include Hermès, Lanvin, Gucci, Chloé, and Christian Lacroix.

LEFT BANK

For an array of bedazzling boutiques with hyper-picturesque goods—antique toy theaters, books on gardening—and the most fascinating antiques stores in town, be sure to head to the area around Rue Jacob, nearly lined with antiquaires, and the streets around super-posh Place Furstenberg. After decades of clustering on the Right Bank’s venerable shopping avenues, the high-fashion houses have stormed the Rive Gauche. The first to arrive were Sonia Rykiel and Yves St-Laurent in the late ‘60s. Some of the more recent arrivals include Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, and Louis Vuitton. Rue des St-Pères and Rue de Grenelle are lined with designer names.

LE MARAIS

The Marais is a mixture of many moods and many influences; its lovely, impossibly narrow cobblestone streets are filled with some of the most original, small name, nonglobal goods to be had—a true haven for the original gift—including the outposts of Jamin Puech, the Red Wheelbarrow, and Sentou Galerie. Avant-garde designers Azzedine Alaïa and Tsumori Chistato have boutiques within a few blocks of stately Place des Vosges and the Picasso and Carnavalet museums. The Marais is also one of the few neighborhoods that has a lively Sunday-afternoon (usually from 2 PM) shopping scene.

LOUVRE–PALAIS ROYAL

The elegant and eclectic shops clustered in the 18th-century arcades of the Palais-Royal sell such items as antiques, toy soldiers, music boxes, some of the world’s most exclusive vintage designer dresses at Didier Ludot, and high-end hipness at Stella McCartney and Marc Jacobs.

OPÉRA TO LA MADELEINE

Two major department stores—Printemps and Galeries Lafayette—dominate Boulevard Haussmann, behind Paris’s ornate 19th-century Opéra Garnier. Place de la Madeleine tempts many with its two luxurious food stores, Fauchon and Hédiard.

PLACE VENDÔME AND RUE DE LA PAIX

The magnificent 17th-century Place Vendôme, home of the Ritz Hotel, and Rue de la Paix, leading north from Vendôme, are where you can find the world’s most elegant jewelers: Cartier, Boucheron, Bulgari, and Van Cleef and Arpels. The most exclusive, however, is the discreet Jar’s.

PLACE DES VICTOIRES AND RUE ÉTIENNE MARCEL

The graceful, circular Place des Victoires, near the Palais-Royal, is the playground of fashion icons such as Kenzo, while Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto line Rue Étienne Marcel. In the nearby oh-so-charming Galerie Vivienne shopping arcade, Jean-Paul Gaultier has a shop that has been renovated by Philippe Starck, and is definitely worth a stop.

RUE ST-HONORÉ

A fashionable set makes its way to Rue St-Honoré to shop at Paris’s trendiest boutique, Colette. The street is lined with numerous designer names, while on nearby Rue Cambon you can find the wonderfully elegant Maria Luisa and the main Chanel boutique.

DEPARTMENT STORES

Au Printemps (64 bd. Haussmann, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 9e | 75009 | 01–42–82–50–00 | Station: Havre-Caumartin, Opéra, or Auber) is actually three major stores and has everything plus a whopping six floors dedicated to men’s fashion. Le Bon Marché (24 rue de Sèvres, St-Germain-des-Prés, 7e | 75007 | 01–44–39–80–00 | Station: Sèvres-Babylone) is Paris’s chicest department store, with an impressive array of designers represented for both men and women, and home to La Grande Épicerie, one of the largest groceries in Paris and a gourmand’s home away from home. BHV (52–64 rue de Rivoli, Beaubourg/Les Halles, 4e | 75004 | 01–42–74–90–00 | Station: Hôtel de Ville), short for Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville, has minimal fashion offerings but is noteworthy for its enormous basement hardware store and household items.

Galeries Lafayette (35–40 bd. Haussmann, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 9e | 75009 | 01–42–82–34–56 | Station: Chaussée d’Antin, Opéra, or Havre-Caumartin) is dangerous—the granddaddy of them all—everything you never even dreamt of and then some under a gorgeous Belle Époque stained-glass dome.

BUDGET

Monoprix (21 av. de l’Opéra, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 1er | 75001 | 01–42–61–78–08 | Station: Opéra | 20 bd. de Charonne, Bastille/Nation, 20e | 01–43–73–17–59 | Station: Nation | 50 rue de Rennes, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 01–45–48–18–08 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés), with branches throughout the city, is the French dime store par excellence, stocking everyday items like toothpaste, groceries, toys, typing paper, and bath mats—a little of everything. It also has a line of relatively inexpensive basic wearables for the whole family and isn’t a bad place to stock up on French liqueurs at reasonable prices.

MARKETS

The lively atmosphere that reigns in most of Paris’s open-air food markets makes them a sight worth seeing even if you don’t want or need to buy anything. Every neighborhood has one, though many are open only a few days each week. Sunday morning until 1 PM is usually a good time to go. Many of the better-known markets are in areas you’d visit for sightseeing; here’s a list of the top bets. Boulevard Raspail (Between Rue de Rennes and Rue du Cherche-Midi, Quartier Latin, 6e | 75006 | Station: Rennes) has a great organic market on Tuesday and Friday. Rue Mouffetard (Quartier Latin, 5e | 75005 | Station: Place Monge), near the Jardin des Plantes, is best on weekends. Rue Montorgueuil (Beaubourg/Les Halles, 1er | 75001 | Station: Châtelet Les Halles) is closed Sunday afternoon and Monday. Rue Lévis (Parc Monceau, 17e | 75017 | Station: Villiers), near Parc Monceau, has Alsatian specialties and a terrific cheese shop. It’s closed Sunday afternoon and Monday. The Marché d’Aligre (Rue d’Aligre, Bastille/Nation, 12e | 75012 | Station: Ledru-Rollin), open until 1 PM every day except Monday, is a bit farther out but is the cheapest and probably most locally authentic market in Paris.

On Paris’s northern boundary, the Marché aux Puces (Station: Porte de Clignancourt), or flea market, which takes place Saturday through Monday, is a century-old labyrinth of alleyways spreading for more than a square mile packed with antiques dealers’ booths, junk stalls, and world-class pickpockets; arrive early. On the southern and eastern sides of the city—at Porte de Vanves (Station: Porte de Vanves) and Porte de Montreuil—are other, smaller weekend flea markets. Vanves is a hit with the fashion set and specializes in smaller objects—mirrors, textiles, handbags, clothing, and glass. Arrive early if you want to find a bargain; the good stuff goes fast, and stalls are liable to be packed up before noon.

SHOPPING ARCADES

Paris’s 19th-century commercial arcades, called passages or galeries are the forerunners of the modern mall. Glass roofs, decorative pillars, and mosaic floors give the passages character. The major arcades are on the Right Bank in central Paris. Galerie Vivienne (4 rue des Petits-Champs, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 2e | Station: Bourse) is home to a range of interesting shops, including Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Philippe Starck–designed fantasy, an excellent tearoom, and a quality wine shop.

Passage du Grand-Cerf (Entrances on Rue Dussoubs, Rue St-Denis, Beaubourg/Les Halles, 4e | 75004 | Station: Étienne-Marcel) is a pretty, glass-roof gallery filled with crafts shops offering an innovative selection of jewelry, paintings, and ceramics. Passage Jouffroy (12 bd. Montmartre, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 9e | 75009 | Station: Montmartre) is full of shops selling toys, postcards, antique canes, and perfumes. Passage des Panoramas (11 bd. Montmartre, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 2e | 75002 | Station: Montmartre), built in 1800, is the oldest of them all and with a new organic wine bar, enjoying a rebirth. The elegant Galerie Véro-Dodat (19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | Station: Louvre) has painted ceilings and copper pillars with shops selling contemporary art, silks, antiques, designer cosmetics, and a boutique by shoemaker-to-the-stars Christian Louboutin.

SPECIALTY STORES

ACCESSORIES, COSMETICS, AND PERFUMES

Chantal Thomass (211 rue St-Honoré, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–42–60–40–56 | Station: Tuileries), a legendary lingerie diva, is back with this Pillow Talk–meets–Louis XV–inspired boutique. This is French naughtiness at its best, striking just the right balance between playfulness and straight-on seduction. Christian Louboutin (19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Beaubourg/Les Halles, 1er | 75001 | 01–42–36–53–66 | Station: Palais-Royal | 38–40 rue de Grenelle, St-Germain-des-Prés, 7e | 75007 | 01–42–22–33–07 | Station: Sèvres Babylone) shoes carry their own red carpet with them, in their trademark crimson soles and impressive client list including Catherine Deneuve and Gwyneth Paltrow. E. Goyard (233 rue St-Honoré, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–42–60–57–04 | Station: Tuileries) has been making the finest luggage for the jet set since 1853.

Hermès (24 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, Louvre/Tuileries, 8e | 75008 | 01–40–17–47–17 | Station: Concorde | 42 av. Georges V, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–47–20–48–51 | Station: George V) created the eternally chic Kelly (named for Grace Kelly) and Birkin (named for Jane Birkin) handbags. The silk scarves are legendary for their intricate designs, which change yearly. Other accessories are also extremely covetable: enamel bracelets, dashing silk-twill ties, and small leather goods.

Jamin Puech (43 rue Madame, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–45–48–14–85 | Station: St-Sulpice | 68 rue Vieille-du-Temple, Le Marais, 3e | 75003 | 01–48–87–84–87 | Station: St-Paul) thinks of its bags as jewelry, not just a necessity. Nothing’s plain-Jane here—everything is whimsical, unusual, and fun.

Louis Vuitton (101 av. des Champs-Élysées, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 08–10–81–00–10 | Station: George V | 6 pl. St-Germain-des-Prés, St-Germain-des-Prés 6e | 08–10–81–00–10 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés | 22 av. Montaigne, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 08–10–81–00–10 | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt) has spawned a voracious fan base from Texas to Tokyo with its mix of classic leather goods and the saucy revamped versions orchestrated by Marc Jacobs, with collaborators such as Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. This soaring cathedral-esque paean to luxury (and consumption) is unsurpassed, notably at the opulent flagship on the Champs-Élysées.

Loulou de la Falaise (21 rue Cambon, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–42–60–02–66 | Station: Concorde) was the original muse of Yves Saint Laurent; she was at his side for more than 30 years of collections and designed his accessories line. Now this paragon of the fashion aristocracy has her own two-floor boutique filled with the best style around. Sabbia Rosa (71–73 rue des Sts-Pères, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–45–48–88–37 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés) sells some of the world’s finest lingerie favored by celebrities like Catherine Deneuve and Claudia Schiffer.

BOOKS

The scenic open-air bookstalls along the Seine sell secondhand books (mostly in French), prints, and souvenirs. Numerous French-language bookstores—specializing in a wide range of topics, including art, film, literature, and philosophy—are found in the Latin Quarter and around St-Germain-des-Prés.

Comptoir de l’Image (44 rue de Sévigné, Le Marais, 3e | 75003 | 01–42–72–03–92 | Station: St-Paul) is where designers John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, and Emanuel Ungaro stock up on old copies of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and The Face.

La Hune (170 bd. St-Germain, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–45–48–35–85 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés), sandwiched between the Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots, is a landmark for intellectuals with a comprehensive collection of international books on art and architecture. Open until midnight. The Red Wheelbarrow (22 rue St-Paul, Le Marais, 4e | 75004 | 01–48–04–75–08 | Station: St-Paul) is the anglophone bookstore—if it was written in English, they can get it. It also has a complete academic section and every literary review you can think of. Shakespeare & Company (37 rue de la Bûcherie, Quartier Latin, 5e | 75005 | 01–43–25–40–93 | Station: St-Michel), the sentimental Left Bank favorite, is named after the bookstore whose American owner, Sylvia Beach, first published James Joyce’s Ulysses. Nowadays it specializes in expat literature and secondhand treasures. Taschen (2 rue de Buci, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–40–51–79–22 | Station: Mabillon) is perfect for night owls, as it’s open until midnight on Friday and Saturday. The Starck-designed shelves and desks hold glam titles on photography, fine art, design, fashion, and fetishes.

Village Voice (6 rue Princesse, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–46–33–36–47 | Station: Mabillon) a heavy hitter in Paris’s ever-thriving expat literary scene, is known for its excellent current and classic book selections, frequent book signings, and readings by notable authors. W. H. Smith (248 rue de Rivoli, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–44–77–88–99 | Station: Concorde) carries a multitude of travel and language books, cookbooks, and fiction for adults and children. It also has the best selection of foreign magazines and newspapers in Paris (which you’re allowed to peruse without interruption—many magazine dealers in France aren’t so kind).

CLOTHING

Men’s Wear

Berluti (26 rue Marbeuf, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–53–93–97–97 | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt) has been making exquisite and exclusive men’s shoes for more than a century. Charvet (28 pl. Vendôme, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 1er | 75001 | 01–42–60–30–70 | Station: Opéra) is the Parisian equivalent of a Savile Row tailor.

Women’s Wear

It doesn’t matter, say the French, that fewer and fewer of their top couture houses are still headed by compatriots. It’s the chic elegance, the classic ambience, the je ne sais quoi, that remains undeniably Gallic. Here are some meccas for Paris chic. Antik Batik (113 Vielle du Temple, Le Maraiss, 3e | 75003 | 01–48–87–39–46 | Station: St Paul | 18 rue Turenne, Marais, 4e | 01–44–78–93–75 | Station: St-Paul | 20 rue Vaugirard, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 01–43–25–30–22 | Station: Odéon) has a wonderful line of ethnically inspired clothes. There are row upon row of beaded and sequined dresses, Chinese silk tunics, short fur jackets, flowing organza separates, and some of Paris’s most popular handbags. Azzedine Alaïa (7 rue de Moussy, Le Marais, 4e | 75004 | 01–42–72–19–19 | Station: Hôtel-de-Ville) is the undisputed “king of cling” dresses, but you don’t have to be under 20 to look good in one of his dresses; devotees include Tina Turner and Michelle Obama.

Catherine Malandrino (10 rue de Grenelle, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–42–22–26–95 | Station: Sèvres Babylone) designs for the urban sophisticate, expertly combining glamor, smarts, and allure in her office-to-soirée styles. Dresses caress the body without clinging and incorporate ingenious details—cutout seams, a flattering wide bodice, transparent sleeves—for an ultrastylish look.

Chanel (42 av. Montaigne, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–47–23–74–12 | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt | 31 rue Cambon, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–42–86–26–00 | Station: Tuileries) is helmed by Karl Lagerfeld, whose collections are steadily vibrant. Great investments include all of Coco’s favorites: the perfectly tailored tweed suit, a lean, soigné black dress, a quilted bag with a gold chain, or a camellia brooch.

Chloé (54–56 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, Louvre/Tuileries, 8e | 75008 | 01–44–94–33–00 | Station: Concorde) is revising its image yet again with Hannah McGibbon at the helm; less romantic and feminine than days of yore, the line still features flowing layered dresses but with an asymmetric edge. Bold colors and patterns on lovely diaphanous fabrics made a big splash recently.

Christian Dior (30 av. Montaigne, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 75008 | 01–40–73–54–44 | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt | 16 rue de l’Abbé, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–56–24–90–53 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés) may have dismissed long-time designer John Galliano, but the store still features wild designs like body-skimming evening dresses paired with high-tops and a Davy Crockett raccoon hat.

Colette (213 rue St-Honoré, Louvre/Tuileries, 1er | 75001 | 01–55–35–33–90 | Station: Tuileries) is the most fashionable, most hip, and most hyped store in Paris (and possibly the world). The ground floor, which stocks design objects, gadgets, and makeup, is generally packed with fashion victims and the simply curious. Upstairs are handpicked fashions, accessories, magazines, and books, all of which ooze trendiness. The basement has a water bar and a small restaurant that’s good for a quick bite.

Jean-Paul Gaultier (44 av. George V, Champs-Élysées, 8e | 01–44–43–00–44 | Station: George V | 6 Galerie Vivienne, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 2e | 75002 | 01–42–86–05–05 | Station: Bourse) first made headlines with his celebrated corset with the ironic i-conic breasts for Madonna, but now sends fashion editors into ecstasy with his sumptuous haute-couture creations. Designer Philippe Starck spun an Alice in Wonderland fantasy for the boutiques, with quilted cream walls and Murano mirrors.

GIFTS FOR THE HOME

Maison de Baccarat (11 pl. des États-Unis, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel, 16e | 75016 | 01–40–22–11–00 | Station: Trocadéro) was once the home of Marie-Laure de Noailles, known as the Countess of Bizarre; now it’s a museum and crystal store of the famed manufacturer. Philippe Starck revamped the space with his signature cleverness—yes, that’s a chandelier floating in an aquarium and, yes, that crystal arm sprouting from the wall alludes to Jean Cocteau (a friend of Noailles).

Muji (47 rue des Francs Bourgeois, Le Marais, 4e | 75004 | 01–49–96–41–41 | Station: St-Paul | 27 and 30 rue St-Sulpice, St-Germain-des-Prés, 6e | 75006 | 01–46–34–01–10 | Station: Odéon) runs on the concept of kanketsu, or simplicity. The resultant streamlined designs for sportswear, housewares, and other supplies are all the rage in Europe. Must-haves include a collection of mini-necessities—travel essentials, wee office gizmos, purse-size accoutrements—so useful and adorable you’ll want them all.

Le Monde Sauvage (11 rue de l’Odéon, Quartier Latin, 6e | 75006 | 01–43–25–60–34 | Station: Odéon) is a must-visit for home accessories—reversible silk bedspreads in rich colors, velvet throws, hand-quilted bed linens, silk floor cushions, Venetian mirrors, and the best selection of hand-embroidered curtains in silk, cotton, linen, or velvet.

GOURMET GOODIES

À la Mère de Famille (35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 9e | 75009 | 01–47–70–83–69 | Station: Cadet) is an enchanting shop well versed in French regional specialties and old-fashioned bonbons, sugar candy, and more.

Fauchon (26 pl. de la Madeleine, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 8e | 75008 | 01–70–39–38–00 | Station: Madeleine) is the most famous and iconic of all Parisian food stores and sells renowned pâté, honey, jelly, tea, and private-label champagne. There’s a café for a quick bite.

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Hemingway’s Paris

HEMINGWAY’S PARIS

There is a saying: “Everyone has two countries, his or her own—and France.” For the Lost Generation after World War I, these words rang particularly true. Lured by favorable exchange rates, free-flowing alcohol, and a booming artistic scene, many American writers, composers, and painters moved to Paris in the 1920s and 1930s, Ernest Hemingway among them. He arrived in Paris with his first wife, Hadley, in December 1921 and made for the Rive Gauche—the Hôtel Jacob et d’Angleterre, to be exact (still operating at 44 rue Jacob). To celebrate their arrival the couple went to the Café de la Paix for a meal they nearly couldn’t afford.

Hemingway worked as a journalist and quickly made friends with other expat writers such as Gertrude Stein and Ezra Pound. In 1922 the Hemingways moved to 74 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, a bare-bones apartment with no running water (his writing studio was around the corner, on the top floor of 39 rue Descartes). Then in early 1924 the couple and their baby son settled at 113 rue Notre-Dame des Champs. Much of The Sun Also Rises, Hemingway’s first serious novel, was written at nearby café La Closerie des Lilas. These were the years in which he forged his writing style, paring his sentences down to the pith. As he noted in A Moveable Feast, “hunger was good discipline.” There were some particularly hungry months when Hemingway gave up journalism and tried to publish short stories, and the family was “very poor and very happy.”

They weren’t happy for long. In 1926, just when The Sun Also Rises made him famous, Hemingway left Hadley and the next year wedded his mistress, Pauline Pfeiffer, across town at St Honoré-d’Eylau, then moved to 6 rue Férou, near the Musée du Luxembourg, whose collection of Cézanne landscapes (now in the Musée d’Orsay) he revered.

For gossip and books, and to pick up his mail, Papa would visit Shakespeare & Co., then at 12 rue de l’Odéon, owned by Sylvia Beach, who became a trusted friend. For cash and cocktails Hemingway usually headed to the upscale Rive Droite. He collected the former at the Guaranty Trust Company, at 1 rue des Italiens. He found the latter, when he was flush, at the bar of the Hôtel Crillon, or, when poor, at the Caves Mura, at 19 rue d’Antin, or Harry’s Bar, still in brisk business at 5 rue Daunou. Hemingway’s legendary association with the Hotel Ritz was sealed during the Liberation in 1944, when he strode in at the head of his platoon and “liberated” the joint by ordering martinis all around. Here Hemingway asked Mary Welsh to become his fourth wife, and here also, the story goes, a trunk full of notes on his first years in Paris turned up in the 1950s, giving him the raw material to write A Moveable Feast.

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Main Table of Contents

Getting Here and Around

Essentials

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Air Travel | Barge and Yacht Travel | Boat Travel | Bus Travel | Car Travel | Train Travel

AIR TRAVEL

Flying time to Paris is 7½ hours from New York, 9 hours from Chicago, 11 hours from Los Angeles, and 1 hour from London. Flying time between Paris and Nice is 1 hour.

As one of the world’s most popular destinations, Paris is serviced by many international carriers. Air France, the French flag carrier, offers numerous flights between Paris’s Charles de Gaulle Airport and New York City’s JFK Airport; Newark, New Jersey; and Washington’s Dulles Airport; as well as Boston, Philadelphia, Atlanta, Miami, Chicago, Houston, Seattle, San Francisco, and Los Angeles. Most other North American cities are served through Air France partnerships with Delta. American-based carriers are usually less expensive, but offer fewer nonstop flights. Delta Airlines has flights to Paris from Atlanta, Cincinnati, Philadelphia, and New York City’s JFK. Continental Airlines has nonstop flights to Paris from Newark and Houston. Another popular carrier is United, with nonstop flights to Paris from Chicago, Denver, Los Angeles, Miami, Philadelphia, Washington, and San Francisco. American Airlines offers daily nonstop flights to Paris’s Charles de Gaulle Airport from numerous cities, including New York City’s JFK, Miami, Chicago, and Dallas/Fort Worth.

Airline Contacts: Air France (800/237–2747 in U.S., 36–54 in France [€0.34 per min] | www.airfrance.com). American Airlines (800/433–7300 in U.S., 01–55–17–43–41 in France | www.aa.com). Continental Airlines (800/523–3273 for U.S. reservations, 800/231–0856 for international reservations, 01–71–23–03–35 in France | www.continental.com). Delta Airlines (800/221–1212 for U.S. reservations, 800/241–4141 for international reservations, 08–11–64–00–05 in France | www.delta.com). United Airlines (800/864–8331 for U.S. reservations, 800/538–2929 for international reservations, 08–10–72–72–72 in France | www.united.com).

Within Europe: EasyJet (0905/560–7777 in U.K. [£1 per min] 08–26–10–26–11 in France [€1.34 per call and €0.34 per min] | www.easyjet.com). Ryan Air (0871–246–0000 in U.K. [£0.10 per min] 08–92–78–02–10 in France [€0.34 per min] | www.ryanair.com).

Airlines and Airports: Airline and Airport Links.com (www.airlineandairportlinks.com) has links to many of the world’s airlines and airports.

Airline Security Issues: Transportation Security Administration (www.tsa.gov) has answers for almost every question that might come up.

AIRPORTS

There are two major gateway airports to France, both just outside the capital: Orly, 16 km (10 mi) south of Paris, and Charles de Gaulle, 26 km (16 mi) northeast of the city. The smaller Beauvais Airport, 75 km (46 mi) north of Paris, is used by European budget airlines. At Charles de Gaulle, also known as Roissy, there’s a TGV station at Terminal 2, where you can connect to trains going all over the country. Many airlines have less frequent flights to Lyon, Lourdes, Perpignan, Biarritz, Nantes, Nice, Marseille, Bordeaux, and Toulouse.

Airport Information: Charles de Gaulle/Roissy (01–48–62–22–80 | www.adp.fr). Orly (01–49–75–15–15 | www.adp.fr).

Ground Transportation

From Charles de Gaulle, the fastest and least expensive way to get into Paris is on the RER-B line, the suburban express train, which runs daily from 5 AM to 11:30 PM. The free CGDVal lightrail connects each terminal to the Roissypôle RER station in less than 8 minutes, running daily nonstop 24/7. There is also a free “navette” shuttle bus, although you have to wait for it outside each terminal, and traffic can make travel time up to 30 minutes to the RER station. Trains to central Paris (Gare du Nord, Les Halles, St-Michel, Luxembourg) depart every 15 minutes. The fare (including métro connection) is €8.50, and journey time is about 30 minutes.

The Air France shuttle is a comfortable option to get to and from the city—you don’t need to have flown the carrier to use this service. Line 2 goes from the airport to Paris’s Charles de Gaulle Étoile and Porte Maillot from 5:45 AM to 11 PM. It leaves every 15 minutes and costs €15, which you can pay on board. Passengers arriving in Terminal 1 need to take Exit 34; Terminals 2B and 2D, Exit 6; Terminals 2E and 2F, Exit 3. Line 4 goes to Montparnasse and the Gare de Lyon from 7 AM to 9 PM. Buses run every 30 minutes and cost €16.50. Passengers arriving in Terminal 1 need to look for Exit 34, Terminals 2A and 2C need to take Exit C2, Terminals 2B and 2D Exit B1, and Terminals 2E and 2F Exit 3.

Another option is to take Roissybus, operated by the Paris Transit Authority, which runs between Charles de Gaulle and the Opéra every 20 minutes from 6 AM to 11 PM; the cost is €9.10. The trip takes about 45 minutes in regular traffic, about 90 minutes in rush-hour traffic.

Taxis are your least desirable mode of transportation into the city. If you’re traveling at peak tourist times, you may have to stand in a very long line with a lot of other disgruntled European travelers. Journey times, and as a consequence, prices, are therefore unpredictable. At best, the journey takes 30 minutes, but it can take as long as 90 minutes during rush hour. Count on a €40 to €50 fare.

Airport Connection is the name of just one of a number of van services that serve both Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports. Prices are set, so it costs the same no matter how long the journey takes. To make a reservation, call, e-mail, or fax your flight details at least one week in advance to the shuttle company and an air-conditioned van with a bilingual chauffeur will be waiting for you upon your arrival. Note that these shuttle vans pick up and drop off other passengers.

From Orly, the most economical way to get into Paris is to take the RER-C or Orlyrail line. Catch the free shuttle bus from the terminal to the Pont de Rungis train station. Trains to Paris leave every 15 minutes. Passengers arriving in either the South or West Terminal need to use Exit G. The fare is €6.20, and journey time is about 35 minutes. Another option is to take the monorail service, Orlyval, which runs between the Antony RER-B station and Orly Airport daily every 4 to 8 minutes from 6 AM to 11 PM. Passengers arriving in the South Terminal should look for Exit K, those arriving in the West Terminal, Exit W. The fare to downtown Paris is €9.85.

You can also take an Air France bus line 1 from Orly to Les Invalides on the Left Bank and Montparnasse, the line 1* also stops at Etoile and Porte d’Orleans on request; these run every 15 minutes from 6 AM to 11 PM. (You need not have flown on Air France to use this service.) The fare is €11.50, and the trip takes between 30 and 45 minutes, depending on traffic. Those arriving in Orly South need to look for Exit L; those arriving in Orly West, Exit D. The Paris Transit Authority’s Orlybus is yet another option; buses leave every 15 minutes for the Denfert-Rochereau métro station; the cost is €6.40. You can economize using RATP Bus 183, which shuttles you from the airport to Line 7, métro Porte de Choisy station, for the price of a city bus ticket. It operates daily from 5:30 AM to 8:30 PM at the Orly Sud terminal.

Contacts: Air France Bus (08–92–35–08–20 recorded information in English | www.cars-airfrance.com). Airport Connection (01–43–65–55–55 | www.airport-connection.com). Paris Airport Service (01–55–98–10–80 | www.parisairportservice.com). RATP (including Roissybus, Orlybus, Orlyval) (3246 in France [€0.34 per min] | www.ratp.com).

BARGE AND YACHT TRAVEL

Canal and river trips are popular in France, particularly along the picturesque waterways in Brittany, Burgundy, and the Midi. For further information, ask for a “Tourisme Fluvial” brochure at any French tourist office. It’s also possible to rent a barge or crewed sailboat to travel around the coast of France, particularly along the Côte d’Azur.

Barge Companies: Abercrombie & Kent (630/954–2944 or 800/554–7016 | www.abercrombiekent.com). En-Bateau (04–67–13–19–62 | en-bateau.com). European Waterways (800/394–8630 in U.S., 888/342–1917 in Canada | www.gobarging.com). French Country Waterways (781/934–2454 or 800/222–1236 | www.fcwl.com). Maine Anjou Rivières (08–05–80–10–83 | www.maine-anjou-rivieres.com). Viking River Cruises (800/304–9616 | www.rivercruises.com).

BOAT TRAVEL

A number of ferry and hovercraft routes link the United Kingdom and France. Prices depend on the length of the journey and the number of people traveling. Driving distances from the French ports to Paris are as follows: from Calais, 290 km (180 mi); from Cherbourg, 358 km (222 mi); from Caen, 233 km (145 mi); from St-Malo, 404 km (250 mi).

Dover–Calais: P&O European Ferries (0825/120–156 | www.poferries.com) has up to 25 sailings a day; the crossing takes 90 minutes. Seafrance (44–8451–458–0666 from outside the U.K. | www.seafrance.fr) operates up to 15 sailings a day; the crossing takes about 90 minutes.

Portsmouth & Poole–Cherbourg, Caen & St-Malo: Brittany Ferries (0871/244–0744 | www.brittany-ferries.co.uk) has four sailings per day between Caen and Portsmouth, three crossings daily between Portsmouth and Cherbourg, one crossing daily between St-Malo and Portsmouth, and three crossings daily between Poole and Cherbourg.

BUS TRAVEL

If you’re traveling to or from another country, train service can be just as economical as bus travel, if not more so. The largest international operator is Eurolines France, whose main terminal is in the Parisian suburb of Bagnolet (a half-hour métro ride from central Paris, at the end of métro Line 3). Eurolines runs many international routes to more than 37 European destinations, including a route from London to Paris, usually departing at 8 AM, arriving at 4:30 PM; noon, arriving at 9:30 PM; and 9:30 PM, arriving at 7:15 AM. Fares are £57 round-trip (under-25 youth pass £53). Other Eurolines routes include: Amsterdam (7 hrs, €67); Barcelona (15 hrs, €139); and Berlin (10 hrs, €137). There are economical passes to be had—15-day passes run €175–€310, a 30-day pass will cost €240–€410. These passes offer unlimited coach travel to all Eurolines European destinations.

France’s excellent train service means that long-distance bus routes in France are rare; regional buses are found mainly where train service is spotty. In rural areas the service can be unreliable, and schedules can be incomprehensible for those who don’t speak French. Your best bet is to contact local tourism offices.

Bus Information: Eurolines France (08–92–89–90–91 in France [€0.34 per min] | www.eurolines.fr).

CAR TRAVEL

An International Driver’s Permit, valid for trips of less than 90 days, is not required but can prove useful in emergencies such as traffic violations or auto accidents, particularly when a foreign language is involved. Drivers in France must be over 18 years old to drive, but there is no top age limit (if your faculties are intact).

If you’re driving from the United Kingdom to the Continent, you have a choice of either the Channel Tunnel or ferry services. Reservations are always a good idea, but are essential at peak times.

GASOLINE

Gas is expensive, especially on expressways and in rural areas. When possible, buy gas before you get on the expressway and keep an eye on pump prices as you go. These vary—anything from €1.20 to €1.40 per liter. The cheapest gas can be found at hypermarchés (large supermarkets). Credit cards are accepted everywhere. In rural areas it’s possible to go for miles without passing a gas station, so don’t let your tank get too low.

PARKING

Parking is a nightmare in Paris and many other metropolitan areas. “Pay and display” metered parking is usually limited to two hours in city centers. Parking is free on Sunday and national holidays. Parking meters showing a dense yellow circle indicate a free parking zone during the month of August. In smaller towns, parking may be permitted on one side of the street only—alternating every two weeks—so pay attention to signs. In France, illegally parked cars are likely to be impounded, especially those blocking entrances or fire exits. Parking tickets start at €11, topping out at €135 in a handicapped zone, for a first offense, and there’s no shortage of the blue-uniformed parking police. Parking lots, indicated by a blue sign with a white P, are usually underground and are generally expensive.

ROAD CONDITIONS

France has 8,000 km (5,000 mi) of expressway and 808,000 km (502,000 mi) of main roads. For the fastest route between two points, look for roads marked A for autoroute. A péage (toll) must be paid on most expressways: the rate varies but can be steep. The N (route nationale) roads—which are sometimes divided highways—and D (route départementale) roads are usually also wide and fast.

There are excellent links between Paris and most French cities, but poor ones between the provinces (the principal exceptions are A26 from Calais to Reims, A62 between Bordeaux and Toulouse, and A9/A8 the length of the Mediterranean coast).

Though routes are numbered, the French generally guide themselves from city to city and town to town by destination name. When reading a map, keep one eye on the next big city toward your destination as well as the next small town; most snap decisions will have to be based on town names, not road numbers.

Roadside Emergencies

If you have car trouble on an expressway, go to a roadside emergency telephone. If you have a breakdown anywhere else, find the nearest garage or contact the police. There are also 24-hour assistance hotlines valid throughout France (available through rental agencies and supplied to you when you rent the car), but don’t hesitate to call the police in case of any roadside emergency; they’re quick and reliable, and the phone call is free. There are special phones just for this purpose on all highways; you can see them every few kilometers—just pick up the bright orange phone and dial 17. The French equivalent of the AAA is the Club Automobile de l’Ile de France, but it only takes care of its members and is of little use to international travelers.

Emergency Services: Police (17).

Rules of the Road

Drive on the right and yield to drivers coming from streets to the right. However, this rule does not necessarily apply at traffic circles, where you should watch out for just about everyone. You must wear a seat belt, and children under 12 may not travel in the front seat. Speed limits are 130 kph (80 mph) on expressways (autoroutes), 110 kph (70 mph) on divided highways (routes nationales), 90 kph (55 mph) on other roads (routes), 50 kph (30 mph) in cities and towns (villes and villages). French drivers break these limits all the time, and police dish out hefty on-the-spot fines with equal abandon. Do not expect to find traffic lights in the center of the road, as French lights are usually on the right- and left-hand sides.

You might be asked by the Police National to pull over at busy intersections. You will have to show your papers (papiers)—including car insurance—and may be submitted to an alcotest (you guessed it, a Breathalyzer test). The rules in France have become stringent because of the high incidence of accidents on the roads; anything above 0.5 grams of alcohol in the blood—which, according to your size, could simply mean two to three glasses of wine—and you are over the limit. This does not necessarily mean a night in the clinker, but your driving privileges in France will be revoked on the spot and you will pay a hefty fine. Don’t drink and drive, even if you’re just crossing town to the sleepy little inn on the river. Local police are notorious for their vigilance.

Some important traffic terms and signs to note: SORTIE (exit); SENS UNIQUE (one-way); STATIONNEMENT INTERDITE (no parking); and IMPASSE (dead end). Blue rectangular signs indicate a highway; green rectangular signs indicate a major direction; triangles carry illustrations of a particular traffic hazard; speed limits are indicated in a circle with the maximum limit circled in red.

TRAIN TRAVEL

The French national train agency, the Sociète Nationale de Chemins de Fer, or SNCF, is fast, punctual, comfortable, and comprehensive. Traveling across France, you have various options: local trains, overnight trains with sleeping accommodations, and the high-speed Trains à Grande Vitesse, known as the TGV.

TGVs average 255 kph (160 mph) on the Lyon–southeast line and 300 kph (190 mph) on the Lille and Bordeaux–southwest lines and are the best and the fastest domestic trains. They operate between Paris and Lille/Calais, Paris and Brussels, Paris and Amsterdam, Paris and Lyon–Switzerland–Provence, Paris and Angers–Nantes, and Paris and Tours–Poitiers–Bordeaux. As with other main-line trains, a small supplement may be assessed at peak hours.

It’s usually fast and easy to cross France without traveling overnight, especially on TGVs, which are generally affordable and efficient. Be aware that trains fill fast on weekends and holidays, so purchase tickets well in advance at these times. Otherwise, you can take a slow overnight train, which often costs more than a TGV. There’s a choice between high-price wagons-lit (sleeping cars) and slightly more affordable couchettes (bunks, six to a compartment in second class, four to a compartment in first).

In Paris there are six international rail stations: Gare du Nord (northern France, northern Europe, and England via Calais or Boulogne); Gare St-Lazare (Normandy and England via Dieppe); Gare de l’Est (Strasbourg, Luxembourg, Basel, and central Europe); Gare de Lyon (Lyon, Marseille, Provence, Geneva, and Italy); Gare d’Austerlitz (Loire Valley, southwest France, and Spain); and Gare Montparnasse for trains bound for southwest France.

BOOKING AND BUYING TICKETS

There are two classes of train service in France; first (première) or second (deuxième). First-class seats offer more legroom, plusher upholstery, private reading lamps, and computer plugs on the TGV, not to mention the hush-hush environment for those who want to sleep. The price is also nearly double.

It is best—and in many cases, essential—to prebook your train tickets. This requires making a reservation (which carries an additional charge of about 10 euros a person) online, by phone, or at the train station. Rail Europe does an excellent job providing train tickets to those in the US. They offer a service and their prices reflect that. There is nothing wrong with booking with them. However if you want to save money and don’t mind doing it yourself, booking with the SNCF is much cheaper.

Buying SNCF Tickets Online

Go to | www.voyages-sncf.com (and when you click on the U.K. flag you get to | www.tgv-europe.com). Find “advanced search,” and then you’ll be taken through a series of steps that will allow you to choose your outbound trip, followed by your inbound trip. Fares with the yellow background are the cheapest, a blue background is the mid price and gray is most expensive and tends to be flexible. Green background tends to be a class upgrade suggestion.

Whether you decide to print tickets yourself or pick them up at a station (do not have them sent by mail), select “France” as the country where you will collect your tickets. Do not select the U.S. or you will be redirected to the RailEurope Web site.

Know that certain fares or mix of fares may require you to pick up tickets at the station ticket window rather than print them yourself; make sure to factor in extra time as lines tend to be long throughout the day and be sure to bring ID and the credit card used to make the reservation. While there’s the option to pick them up from one of the automatic machines, they only work with French credit cards that contain a special chip. You may book 90 days in advance for the TGV.

Rail Passes to Choose From

There are two kinds of rail passes: those you must purchase at home before you leave for France, including the France Rail Pass, the Eurail Selectpass, and those available in France from SNCF. The SNCF passes are available at any train station in France. Your rail pass does not guarantee you a seat on the train you wish to ride, however. You need to book ahead even if you’re using a rail pass.

If you plan to travel outside of Paris, consider purchasing a France Rail Pass, which allows three days of unlimited train travel in a one-month period. If you travel solo, first class will run you $305, second class is $261: you can add up to six days on this pass for $46 (first class) or $39 (second class) a day. For two people traveling together on a Saver Pass, the cost in first class is $259, second class is $224; each additional day costs $40 (first class) or $33 (second class). Another option is the France Rail ‘n Drive Pass (combining rail and rental car).

France is one of 18 countries in which you can use EurailPasses, which provide unlimited first-class rail travel in all of the participating countries for the duration of the pass. If you plan to rack up the miles, get a Eurail Global Pass. These are available for various time periods from 15 days ($767 first class, $384 second class) up to three months ($2,151 first class, $1,150 second class). If your plans call for only limited train travel between France and another country, consider a two-country pass, which costs less than a EurailPass. With the two-country pass you can get four flexible travel days between France and Italy, France, Spain, Germany, or Switzerland for $371 to $296. In addition to standard EurailPasses, ask about special plans. Among these are the Eurail Selectpass Youth (for those under age 26) and the Eurail Selectpass Saver (which gives a discount for two or more people traveling together). Whichever of the above passes you choose, remember that you must purchase your Eurail passes before leaving for France.

With an advance arrangement, SNCF will pick up and deliver your luggage at a given time. For instance, if you’re planning on spending a weekend in Nice, SNCF will pick up your luggage at your hotel in Paris in the morning before checkout and deliver it to your hotel in Nice, where it will be awaiting your arrival. The cost is €23 for the first bag, and €10 for two additional bags, with a maximum of three bags per person.

BOARDING THE TRAIN

Get to the station a half-hour before departure to ensure you’ll have a good seat. Before boarding, you must punch your ticket (but not EurailPass) in one of the orange machines at the entrance to the platforms, or else the ticket collector will fine you €15. Once you’re aboard, note that smoking is now forbidden in TGVs (the ban now applies to all public transportation in France). Even lighting up in the bathrooms or connecting compartments will land you an on-the-spot fine starting at €65.

Don’t forget to validate your tickets (composter le billet) at the yellow ticket punchers, usually at the entrance to the platforms (quais). If you board your train on the run and don’t have time to punch it, look for a conductor (contrôleur) as soon as possible and get him to sign it. Otherwise, you’re in for a nasty fine (amende). Tickets printed by the SNCF must be validated; tickets printed at home don’t need validation.

TO AND FROM THE U.K.

When you factor in travel time to and from the airport, not to mention flight delays, taking the Channel Tunnel is the fastest and easiest way between France and the U.K. It’ll take you 2 hours and 15 minutes on the high-speed Eurostar train from Paris’ Gare du Nord to London’s St. Pancras Station; 35 minutes from Folkestone to Calais, 60 minutes from motorway to motorway. The Belgian border is just a short drive northeast of Calais. Eurostar trains use the same tunnels to connect London’s Waterloo Station directly with Midi Station in Brussels in two hours.

British Rail also has four daily departures from London’s Victoria Station, all linking with the Dover–Calais–Boulogne ferry services through to Paris. There’s also an overnight service on the Newhaven–Dieppe ferry. Journey time is about eight hours. Credit-card bookings are accepted by phone or in person at a British Rail travel center.

There’s a vast range of prices for Eurostar—round-trip tickets range from €600 for first class to €77 for second class depending on when and where you travel and how far in advance you book.

BritRail Travel (866/274–8724 in U.S. | www.britrail.com). Eurail (www.eurail.com). Eurostar (0870/518–6186 in U.K. [€0.15 per min] or 08–92–35–35–39 in France [€0.17 per min] | www.eurostar.co.uk). Rail Europe (888/382–7245). SNCF (08–92–35–35–35 in France [€0.34 per min] | www.sncf.com or www.voyages-sncf.com for ticket purchases). SNCF Luggage Delivery Service (3635 from any phone in France, then say “bagages” [bah-gahj] [€0.34 per min] | www.sncf.com).

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Accommodations | Communications | Eating Out | Electricity | Emergencies | Holidays | Mail | Money | Passports | Safety | Taxes | Time | Tipping | Visitor Information

ACCOMMODATIONS

The following is the price chart used throughout this book to determine price categories for most hotels listed. Paris remains the pricey exception: for that city, the highest category is over €250 and the lowest is under €80. Prices are for a standard double room in high season, including tax (19.6%) and service charge; rates for any board plans will be higher.

CATEGORY

Paris

All Regions Excluding Paris

$$$$

over €250

over €215

$$$

€176–€250

€146–€215

$$

€121–€175

€106–€145

$

€80–€120

€65–€105

¢

under €80

under €65

APARTMENT AND HOUSE RENTALS

If you know the region you want to visit, contact the departmental branch directly and order a photo catalog that lists every property. If you specify which dates you plan to visit, the office will narrow down the choice to rentals available for those days. Be sure to plan early: renting gîtes has become one of the most popular ways to discover France.

Individual tourist offices often publish lists of locations meublés (furnished rentals); these are often inspected by the tourist office and rated by comfort standards. Usually they’re booked directly through the individual owner, which generally requires some knowledge of French. Rentals that are not classified or rated by the tourist office should be undertaken with trepidation, as they can fall well below your minimum standard of comfort.

Vacation rentals in France always book from Saturday to Saturday (with some offering weekend rates off-season). Most do not include bed linens and towels, but make them available for an additional fee. Always check on policies on pets and children and specify if you need an enclosed garden for toddlers, a washing machine, a fireplace, and so on. If you plan to have overnight guests during your stay, let the owner know; there may be additional charges. Insurance restrictions prohibit loading in guests beyond the specified capacity.

Contacts: At Home Abroad (212/421–9165 | www.athomeabroadinc.com). Barclay International Group (516/364–0064 or 800/845–6636 | www.barclayweb.com). Drawbridge to Europe (541/482–7778 or 888/268–1148 | www.drawbridgetoeurope.com). Fédération Nationale des Gîtes de France (01–49–70–75–75 | www.gites-de-france.com). French Government Tourist Office.

(Visitor Information, below). Homes Away (416/920–1873 or 800/374–6637 | www.homesaway.com). Interhome (954/791–8282 or 800/882–6864 | www.interhome.us). Villanet (206/417–3444 or 800/964–1891 | www.rentavilla.com). Villas & Apartments Abroad (212/213–6435 | www.vaanyc.com). Villas International (415/499–9490 or 800/221–2260 | www.villasintl.com). Villas of Distinction (707/778–1800 or 800/289–0900 | www.villasofdistinction.com). Wimco (800/449–1553 | www.wimco.com).

BED-AND-BREAKFASTS

Reservation Services: Bed & Breakfast.com (512/322–2710 or 800/462–2632 | www.bedandbreakfast.com) also sends out an online newsletter. Bed & Breakfast Inns Online (615/868–1946 or 800/215–7365 | www.bbonline.com). Chambres Hôtes France (03–87–37–53–97 | www.chambres-hotes-france.org). Fédération Nationale des Gîtes de France (01–49–70–75–75 | www.gitesdefrance.fr). Hôtes Qualité Paris (08–92–68–30–00 | www.parisinfo.com).

HOME EXCHANGES

With a direct home exchange you stay in someone else’s home while they stay in yours. Some outfits also deal with vacation homes, so you’re not actually staying in someone’s full-time residence, just their vacant weekend place.

Exchange Clubs: Home Exchange.com (800/877–8723 | www.homeexchange.com); $99.95 for a one-year online listing. HomeLink International (800/638–3841 | www.homelink.org); $110 yearly for a Web-only membership; $170 includes Web access and two catalogs. Intervac U.S.

(800/756–4663 | www.intervacus.com); $95 for membership; $195 includes two consulting calls from an Intervac rep.

HOTELS

The quality of accommodations, particularly in older properties and even in luxury hotels, can vary greatly from room to room; if you don’t like the room you’re given, ask to see another.

Hotels operate on the European Plan (EP, with no meal provided) unless we note that they offer a Breakfast Plan (BP), Modified American Plan (MAP, with breakfast and dinner daily, known as demi-pension), or Full American Plan (FAP, or pension complète, with three meals a day). Meal plans, which are usually an option offered in addition to the basic room plan, are generally only available with a minimum two- or three-night stay and are, of course, more expensive than the basic room rate. Inquire about meal plans when making reservations; details and prices are often stated on hotel Web sites.

It’s always a good idea to make hotel reservations in Paris and other major tourist destinations as far in advance as possible, especially in late spring, summer, or fall. E-mail is the easiest way to contact the hotel (the staff is probably more likely to read English than to understand it spoken over the phone long-distance), though calling also works. But whether by fax, phone, or e-mail, you should specify the exact dates you want to stay (don’t forget to notify your hotel of a possible late check-in to prevent your room from being given away); the size of the room you want and how many people will be sleeping there; the type of accommodations you want (two twins, double, etc.); and what kind of bathroom (private with shower, tub, or both). You might also ask if a deposit (or your credit-card number) is required, and if so, what happens if you cancel later. Request that the hotel fax you back so you have a written confirmation of your reservation.

If you arrive without a reservation, the tourist offices in major train stations and most towns can probably help you find a room.

Many hotels in France are small, and many are family-run establishments. Some are affiliated with hotel groups, such as Logis de France, which can be relied on for comfort, character, and regional cuisine (look for its distinctive yellow-and-green sign). A Logis de France paperback guide is widely available in bookshops. Two prestigious international groups with numerous converted châteaux and manor houses among its members are Relais & Châteaux and Small Luxury Hotels of the World; booklets listing members are available from these organizations. France also has some hotel chains. Examples in the upper price bracket are Frantel, Novotel, and Sofitel as well as InterContinental, Marriott, Hilton, Hyatt, Westin, and Sheraton. The Best Western, Campanile, Climat de France, Ibis, and Timhotel chains are more moderate. Typically, chains offer a consistently acceptable standard of modern features (modern bathrooms, TVs, etc.) but tend to lack atmosphere, with some exceptions (Best Western, for instance, tries to maintain the local character of the hotels it manages).

Here is a sample letter you may use when making a written or e-mailed reservation:

Cher (Dear) Madame, Monsieur:

Nous voudrions réserver une chambre pour (We wish to reserve a room for) _____ (number of) nuit(s) (nights), du (from) ______ (arrival date) au ______ (departure date), à deux lits (with twin beds), or à lit-double (with a double bed), or une chambre pour une seule personne (a room for a single person), avec salle de bains et toilette privées (with a bathroom and private toilet). Si possible, nous voudrions une salle de bains avec une baignoire et aussi une douche. (If possible, we would prefer a bathroom with a tub as well as a shower.) Veuillez confirmer la réservation en nous communicant le prix de la chambre, et le dépot forfaitaire que vous exigez. Dans l’attente de votre lettre, nous vous prions d’agréer, Madame, Monsieur, l’expression de nos sentiments amicales. (Can you please inform us about availabilities, the room rate, and if any deposit is needed? With our friendliest greetings, we will await your confirmation.)

COMMUNICATIONS

INTERNET

If you use a major Internet provider, getting online in France shouldn’t be difficult. Most hotels have in-room broadband connections or wireless access. If you need to spend a lot of time online, make sure to ask when you book a room if there’s a charge for the service. Remember to bring an adapter for the European-style plugs.

If you’re not at your hotel, there are still many places to get online. Wi-Fi hot spots can be found at many of the cafés and public libraries in Paris and other metropolitan areas. In smaller towns ask at the local tourism office where you can get connected.

Contacts: Cybercafes (www.cybercafes.com) lists more than 4,000 Internet cafés worldwide. Hotspot Zone (cnet.jiwire.com) lists the Wi-Fi zones throughout France (for Paris, search the region “Ile de France”).

PHONES

The good news is that you can now make a direct-dial telephone call from virtually any point on earth. The bad news? You may pay dearly for the convenience. Calling from a hotel is almost always the most expensive option; hotels usually add huge surcharges to all calls, particularly international ones. In some countries you can phone from call centers or even the post office. Calling cards usually keep costs to a minimum, but only if you purchase them locally. And then there are mobile phones (below), which are sometimes more prevalent—particularly in the developing world—than landlines; as expensive as mobile phone calls can be, they are still usually a much cheaper option than calling from your hotel.

The country code for France is 33. The first two digits of French numbers are a prefix determined by zone: Paris and Ile-de-France, 01; the northwest, 02; the northeast, 03; the southeast, 04; and the southwest, 05. Numbers that begin with 06 are for mobile phones (and are notoriously expensive). Pay close attention to the numbers beginning with 08; 08 followed by 00 is a toll-free number but 08–36 numbers can be costly, usually €0.34 per minute but sometimes €1 and up.

Note that when dialing France from abroad, drop the initial 0 from the number. For instance, to call a telephone number in Paris from the United States, dial 011–33 plus the phone number minus the initial 0 (phone numbers in this book are listed with the full 10 digits, which you use to make local calls).

Calling Within France

The French are very fond of their mobile phones (portables) meaning that telephone booths are more scarce than ever. Look for public phones in airports, post offices, train stations, on the street, and subway stations. You can use your own credit card, but keep in mind that you will be charged a €20 minimum, and you’ll have 30 days after the first call to use up the credit. Or pick up a discounted calling card (carte téléphonique) at newsstands, cafés with a TABAC sign, or post offices. There are two types of cards: one can be used on any phone, the other has a microchip (puce) that works only on public phones (les cabines). Insert your card and follow directions on the screen (it should give you the option to read in English). Or dial the toll-free number on the back of the card, enter the identification number from the back of the card, and follow the instructions in English.

Calling Outside France

To make a direct international call out of France, dial 00, then the country code (1 for the United States), the area code, and number.

Telephone rates have decreased recently in France because the French Telecom monopoly finally has some competition. As in most countries, the priciest calls are between 8 AM and 7 PM; you can expect to pay €0.26 per minute for a call to the United States, Canada, or some of the closer European countries such as Great Britain, Belgium, Italy, and Germany. Rates are slashed in half when you make that same call between 7 PM and 8 AM, at just €0.12 per minute. To call home with the help of international directory assistance costs a hefty €3 per call; if this doesn’t dissuade you, dial 118–700 and a bilingual operator will come on the line and ask which country you are calling. Hotels tack on hefty fees for even local calls, plus a surcharge for international calls, so steer clear of the phone in your room unless you’re using an international phone card (télécarte international), which you can find at the same places as a local calling card. The cards cost about €12 for 50 units or €20 for 120 units.

Access Codes: AT&T Direct (08–00–99–00–11, 800/222–0300 for information). MCI WorldPhone (08–00–99–00–19, 800/444–4444 for information). Sprint International Access (08–00–99–00–87, 800/793–1153 for information).

Mobile Phones

If you have a multiband phone (some countries use different frequencies than what’s used in the United States) and your service provider uses the world-standard GSM network (as do T-Mobile, AT&T, and Verizon), you can probably use your phone abroad. But be warned: this is often the most expensive calling option, with hefty toll charges on incoming and outgoing calls, sometimes as high as $4 per call. Roaming fees can be steep, too: 99¢ a minute is considered reasonable. Sending an international text message is usually a cheaper option, but be aware that fees abroad vary greatly (from 15¢ to 50¢ and up), and there’s usually a charge for incoming messages.

If you just want to make local calls, consider buying a local SIM card for about €30 (note that your provider may have to unlock your phone for you to use a different SIM card) or a cheap pay-as-you-go phone (sans abonnement). You can then have a local number and can make local calls at local rates. If your trip is extensive, you could also simply buy a new cell phone in your destination, as the initial cost will be offset over time.

TIP If you travel internationally frequently, save one of your old mobile phones or buy a cheap one on the Internet; ask your cell phone company to unlock it for you, and take it with you as a travel phone, buying a new SIM card with pay-as-you-go service in each destination.

Contacts: Cellular Abroad (800/287–5072 | www.cellularabroad.com) rents and sells GMS phones and sells SIM cards that work in many countries with inexpensive per-minute rates. Mobal (888/888–9162 | www.mobalrental.com) rents mobiles and sells GSM phones (starting at $49) that will operate in 140 countries. Per-call rates are competitive but each sms (text messages) costs 80¢. Planet Fone (888/988–4777 | www.planetfone.com) rents cell phones, but the per-minute rates are expensive.

EATING OUT

All establishments must post their menus outside, so study them carefully before deciding to enter. Most restaurants have two basic types of menu: à la carte and fixed-price (prix-fixe or un menu). The prix-fixe menu is usually the best value, though choices are more limited. Most menus begin with a first course (une entrée), often subdivided into cold and hot starters, followed by fish and poultry, then meat; it’s rare today that anyone orders something from all three. The restaurants we review in this book are the cream of the crop in each price category.

A few pointers on French dining etiquette: diners in France don’t negotiate their orders much, so don’t expect serene smiles when you ask for sauce on the side. Order your coffee after dessert, not with it. When you’re ready for the check, ask for it: no professional waiter would dare put a bill on your table while you’re still enjoying the last sip of coffee. And don’t ask for a doggy bag; it’s just not done. The French usually drink wine or mineral water—not soda or coffee—with their food. You may ask for a carafe of tap water if you don’t want to order wine or pay for bottled water.

MEALS AND MEALTIMES

What’s the difference between a bistro and a brasserie? Can you order food at a café? Can you go to a restaurant just for a snack? The following definitions should help. Many say that bistros served the world’s first fast food. After the fall of Napoléon, the Russian soldiers who occupied Paris were known to bang on zinc-top café bars, crying “bistro”—”quickly”—in Russian. In the past, bistros were simple places with minimal decor and service. Although nowadays many are quite upscale, with beautiful interiors and chic clientele, most remain cozy establishments serving straightforward, frequently gutsy cooking. Brasseries—ideal places for quick, one-dish meals—originated when Alsatians fleeing German occupiers after the Franco-Prussian War came to Paris and opened restaurants serving specialties from home. Pork-based dishes, choucroute (sauerkraut), and beer (brasserie also means brewery) were, and still are, mainstays here. The typical brasserie is convivial and keeps late hours. Some are open 24 hours a day, a good thing to know since many restaurants stop serving at 10:30 PM.

Like bistros and brasseries, cafés come in a confusing variety. Often informal neighborhood hangouts, cafés may also be veritable showplaces attracting chic, well-heeled crowds. At most cafés the regulars congregate at the bar, where coffee and drinks are cheaper than at tables. At lunch tables are set, and a limited menu is served. Sandwiches, usually with jambon (ham), fromage (cheese), or mixte (ham and cheese), are served throughout the day. Casse croûtes (snacks) are also offered. Cafés are for lingering, for people-watching, and for daydreaming. If none of these options fit the bill, head to the nearest traiteur (deli) for picnic fixings.

Breakfast is usually served from 7:30 AM to 10 PM, lunch from noon to 2 PM, and dinner from 7:30 PM to 10 PM. Restaurants in Paris usually serve dinner until 10:30 PM.

PAYING

By French law, prices must include tax and tip (service compris or prix nets), but pocket change left on the table in basic places, or an additional 5% in better restaurants, is always appreciated. Beware of bills stamped service not included in English. The following is the price chart used throughout this book to determine price categories for all restaurants. Prices are per person for a main course at dinner, including tax (5.5%) and service; note that if a restaurant offers only prix-fixe (set-price) meals, it is given a price category that reflects the full prix-fixe price.

CATEGORY COST

$$$$

Over €32

$$$

€25-€32

$$

€18-€24

$

€13-€17

¢

under €13

ELECTRICITY

The electrical current in France is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two round prongs.

Consider making a small investment in a universal adapter, which has several types of plugs in one lightweight, compact unit. Most laptops and mobile phone chargers are dual voltage (i.e., they operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts), so require only an adapter. These days the same is true of small appliances such as hair dryers. Always check labels and manufacturer instructions to be sure. Don’t use 110-volt outlets marked FOR SHAVERS ONLY for high-wattage appliances such as hair dryers.

Contacts: Steve Kropla’s Help for World Traveler’s (www.travelnow.com) has information on electrical and telephone plugs around the world. Walkabout Travel Gear (www.walkabouttravelgear.com) has good coverage of electricity under “adapters.”

EMERGENCIES

For minor emergencies, contact a generalist who will actually visit you in your home or hotel, medical bag in hand, at any hour of the day or night, whether you’re in the city or on the outskirts of a tiny town. Hospital emergency rooms should be used only for emergencies.

France’s emergency services are conveniently streamlined. Every town and village has a médecin de garde (on-duty doctor) for flus, sprains, tetanus shots, and similar problems. Larger cities have a remarkable house-call service called “SOS Médecins” (SOS Doctors, or “SOS Dentistes” for dental emergencies); dial |08–20–33–24–24. The cost is minimal, compared to the United States, about €60 for a house call. If you need an X-ray or emergency treatment, call an ambulance (dial | 15). Note that outside Paris it’s difficult to find English-speaking doctors.

Pharmacies can be helpful with minor health problems and come equipped with blood-pressure machines and first-aid kits. They also can be consulted for a list of practicing doctors in the area, nearby hospitals, private clinics, or health centers.

On the street the French phrases that may be needed in an emergency are: Au secours! (Help!), urgence (emergency), samu (ambulance), pompiers (firemen), poste de station (police station), médecin (doctor), and hôpital (hospital).

HOLIDAYS

With 11 national jours feriés (holidays) and at least five weeks of paid vacation, the French have their share of repose. In May there’s a holiday nearly every week, so be prepared for stores, banks, and museums to shut their doors for days at a time. Be sure to call museums, restaurants, and hotels in advance to make sure they’ll be open.

Note that these dates are for the calendar year 2010: January 1 (New Year’s Day); April 24 and 25 (Easter Sunday and Monday); May 1 (Labor Day); May 8 (V.E. Day); May 13 (Ascension); June 12 (Pentecost Sunday); July 14 (Bastille Day); August 15 (Assumption); November 1 (All Saints); November 11 (Armistice); December 25 (Christmas).

MAIL

Post offices, or PTT, are found in every town and are recognizable by a yellow LA POSTE sign. They’re usually open weekdays 8 AM to 7 PM, Saturday 8–noon. The main Paris post office (52 rue du Louvre) is open 24 hours, seven days a week.

SHIPPING PACKAGES

Letters and postcards to the United States and Canada cost €0.85 for 20 grams. Letters and postcards within France cost €0.55. Stamps can be bought in post offices and in cafés displaying a red TABAC sign outside. It takes, on the average, three days for letters to arrive in Europe, and five days to reach the United States.

If you’re uncertain where you’ll be staying, have mail sent to the local post office, addressed as poste restante, or to American Express, but remember that during peak seasons American Express may refuse to accept mail. The French postal service has a €0.55 per item service charge.

Sending overnight mail from major cities in France is relatively easy. Besides DHL, Federal Express, and UPS, the French post office has overnight mail service, called Chronopost, which is much cheaper for small packages. Keep in mind that certain things cannot be shipped from France to the United States, such as perfume and any meat products.

Express Services: DHL (01–53–96–52–30, 01–45–01–91–00, 08–20–20–25–25 for information all over France | www.dhl.com). Federal Express (01–40–06–90–16 | www.fedex.com). UPS (08–00–87–78–77 for information all over France [€0.12 per min] | www.ups.com).

MONEY

The following prices are for Paris; other areas are often cheaper (with the notable exception of the Côte d’Azur). Keep in mind that it’s less expensive to eat or drink standing at a café or bar counter than to sit at a table. Two prices are listed, au comptoir (at the counter) and à salle (at a table). Sometimes orders cost even more if you’re seated at a terrace table. Coffee in a bar: €1–€2.50 (standing), €1.50–€6 (seated); beer in a bar: €2 (standing), €3–€8 (seated); Coca-Cola: €2–€4 a bottle; ham sandwich: €3–€5; 2-km (1-mi) taxi ride: €6; movie-theater seat: €9.90 (morning shows are always cheaper); foreign newspaper: €1–€5.

Prices throughout this guide are given for adults. Substantially reduced fees are almost always available for children, students, and senior citizens.

ATMS AND BANKS

Your own bank will probably charge a fee for using ATMs abroad; the foreign bank you use may also charge a fee. Nevertheless, you can usually get a better rate of exchange at an ATM than you will at a currency-exchange office or even when changing money in a bank. And extracting funds as you need them is a safer option than carrying around a large amount of cash.

TIP PIN numbers with more than four digits are not recognized at ATMs in many countries. If yours has five or more, remember to change it before you leave.

Easily found throughout France, ATMs are one of the easiest ways to get euros. Don’t, however, expect to find ATMs in rural areas.

Note that the ATM machine will give you two chances to enter your correct PIN number; if you make a mistake on the third try, your card will be held, and you’ll have to return to the bank the next morning to retrieve it. You may have better luck with ATMs with a credit or debit card that is also a Visa or MasterCard, rather than just your bank card.

CREDIT CARDS

France is a debit-card society. Debit cards are used for just about everything, from the automatic gas pumps, to the tolls on highways, payment machines in underground parking lots, stamps at the post office, and even the most minor purchases in the larger department stores. A restaurant or shop would either have to be extremely small or remote not to have some credit-card or debit-card capability. However, some of the smaller restaurants and stores do have a credit-card minimum, usually around €15, which normally should be clearly indicated; to be safe, ask before you order. Do not forget to take your credit-card receipt, as fraudulent use of credit-card numbers taken from receipts is on the rise. Note that while MasterCard and Visa are usually welcomed, American Express isn’t always accepted.

It’s a good idea to inform your credit-card company before you travel, especially if you’re going abroad and don’t travel internationally very often. Otherwise, the credit-card company might put a hold on your card because of unusual activity—not a good thing halfway through your trip. Record all your credit-card numbers—as well as the phone numbers to call if your cards are lost or stolen—in a safe place, so you’re prepared should something go wrong. MasterCard and Visa have general numbers you can call (collect if you’re abroad) if your card is lost, but you’re better off calling the number of your issuing bank, since MasterCard and Visa usually just transfer you to your bank; your bank’s number is usually printed on your card.

If you plan to use your credit card for cash advances, you’ll need to apply for a PIN at least two weeks before your trip. Although it’s usually cheaper (and safer) to use a credit card abroad for large purchases (so you can cancel payments or be reimbursed if there’s a problem), note that some credit-card companies and the banks that issue them add substantial percentages to all foreign transactions, whether they’re in a foreign currency or not. Check on these fees before leaving home, so there won’t be any surprises when you get the bill.

TIP Before you charge something, ask the merchant whether he or she plans to do a dynamic currency conversion (DCC). In such a transaction the credit-card processor (shop, restaurant, or hotel, not Visa or MasterCard) converts the currency and charges you in dollars. In most cases you’ll pay the merchant a 3% fee for this service in addition to any credit-card company and issuing-bank foreign-transaction surcharges.

Dynamic currency conversion programs are becoming increasingly widespread. Merchants who participate in them are supposed to ask whether you want to be charged in dollars or the local currency, but they don’t always do so. And even if they do offer you a choice, they may well avoid mentioning the additional surcharges. The good news is that you do have a choice. And if this practice really gets your goat, you can avoid it entirely thanks to American Express; with its cards, DCC simply isn’t an option.

In this guide, the following abbreviations are used: AE, American Express; DC, Diners Club; MC, MasterCard; and V, Visa.

Reporting Lost Cards: American Express (800/992–3404 in U.S., 336/393–1111 collect from abroad | www.americanexpress.com). Diners Club (800/234–6377 in U.S., 303/799–1504 collect from abroad | www.dinersclub.com). Discover (800/347–2683 in U.S., 801/902–3100 collect from abroad | www.discovercard.com). MasterCard (800/622–7747 in U.S., 636/722–7111 collect from abroad | www.mastercard.com). Visa (800/847–2911 in U.S., 410/581–9994 collect from abroad | www.visa.com).

CURRENCY AND EXCHANGE

The advent of the euro makes any whirlwind grand European tour all the easier. From France you can glide across the borders of Austria, Germany, Italy, Spain, Holland, Ireland, Greece, Belgium, Finland, Luxembourg, and Portugal with no pressing need to run to the local exchange booth to change to yet another currency before you even had the time to become familiar with the last. You’ll be able to do what drives many tourists crazy—to assess the value of a purchase (for example, to realize that eating a three-course meal in a small restaurant in Lisbon is cheaper than that ham sandwich you bought on the Champs Élysées). Initially, the euro had another benefit because it was created as a direct competitor with the U.S. dollar, and was envisioned to be, therefore, of nearly equal value. Unfortunately, exchange rates have seen the euro soar and the dollar take a hit. At this writing, one euro equals U.S. $1.49.

These days, the easiest way to get euros is through ATMs; you can find them in airports, train stations, and throughout the city. ATM rates are excellent because they’re based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. It’s a good idea, however, to bring some euros with you from home and always to have some cash on hand as backup.

Currency Conversion: X-Rates (www.x-rates.com). Oanda.com (www.oanda.com). XE.com (www.xe.com).

PASSPORTS

All Canadian, U.K., and U.S. citizens, even infants, need only a valid passport to enter France for stays of up to 90 days.

We’re always surprised at how few Americans have passports—only 25% at this writing. This number is expected to grow in coming years, when it becomes impossible to re-enter the United States from trips to neighboring Canada or Mexico without one. U.S. passports are valid for 10 years. You must apply in person if you’re getting a passport for the first time; if your previous passport was lost, stolen, or damaged; or if your previous passport has expired and was issued more than 15 years ago or when you were under 16. All children under 18 must appear in person to apply for or renew a passport. Both parents must accompany any child under 14 (or send a notarized statement with their permission) and provide proof of their relationship to the child.

There are 13 regional passport offices, as well as 7,000 passport acceptance facilities in post offices, public libraries, and other governmental offices. If you’re renewing a passport, you can do so by mail. Forms are available at passport acceptance facilities and online. The cost to apply for a new passport is $100 for adults, $85 for children under 16; renewals are $75. Allow six weeks for processing, both for first-time passports and renewals. For an expediting fee of $60 you can reduce this time to about two weeks. If your trip is less than two weeks away, you can get a passport even more rapidly by going to a passport office with the necessary documentation. Before your trip, make two copies of your passport’s data page (one for someone at home and another for you to carry separately). Or scan the page and e-mail it to someone at home and/or yourself.

U.S. Passport Information: U.S. Department of State (0877/487–2778 | http://travel.state.gov/passport/).

SAFETY

Beware of petty theft—purse snatching, pickpocketing, and the like—throughout France, particularly in Paris and along the Côte d’Azur. Use common sense: avoid pulling out a lot of money in public; wear a handbag with long straps that you can sling across your body, bandolier style, with a zippered compartment for your money and passport. Men should keep their wallets up front. When withdrawing money from cash machines, be especially aware of your surroundings and anyone standing too close. If you feel uneasy, press the cancel button (annuler) and walk to an area where you feel more comfortable. Incidents of credit-card fraud are on the rise in France, especially in urban areas; be sure to collect your receipts, as these have recently been used by thieves to make purchases over the Internet. Car break-ins, especially in isolated parking lots where hikers set off for the day, are on the rise. It makes sense to take valuables with you or leave your luggage at your hotel.

Note one cultural difference: a friendly smile or steady eye contact is often seen as an invitation to further contact; so, unfortunately, you should avoid being overly friendly with strangers—unless you feel perfectly safe.

TIP Distribute your cash, credit cards, IDs, and other valuables between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Don’t reach for the money pouch once you’re in public.

TAXES

All taxes must be included in posted prices in France. The initials TTC (toutes taxes comprises—taxes included) sometimes appear on price lists but, strictly speaking, they’re superfluous. By law, hotel prices must include 19.6% taxes and a service charge of 5.5% is charged for food in restaurants. If they show up as extra charges, complain.

Many shops offer V.A.T. refunds to foreign shoppers. Non-EU residents (including U.S. and Canada residents) can claim a refund of the 19.6% tax (less a 3% administrative fee) for any goods totaling €175.01 purchased in the same store. Request a détaxe form in the store. You will be asked to show your passport. At the airport or border crossing, present the form, plus the goods purchased, to customs officials, who will issue a stamp. Proceed to the cash refund office. You may also return the form to Global Refund by mail.

Global Refund is a Europe-wide service with 225,000 affiliated stores and more than 700 refund counters at major airports and border crossings. Its refund form, called a Tax Free Check, is the most common across the European continent. The service issues refunds in the form of cash, check, or credit-card adjustment.

V.A.T. Refunds: Global Refund (www.globalrefund.com). Detaxe TaxFree (01–42–60–29–29 | www.detaxe.com).

TIME

The time difference between New York and Paris is six hours (so when it’s 1 PM in New York, it’s 7 PM in Paris). France, like the rest of Europe, uses the 24-hour clock, which means that after noon you continue counting forward: 13h00 is 1 PM, 22h30 is 10:30 PM. The European format for abbreviating dates is day/month/year, so 7/5/05 means May 7, not July 5.

Time Zones: Timeanddate.com (www.timeanddate.com/worldclock) can help you figure out the correct time anywhere in the world.

TIPPING

The French have a clear idea of when they should be tipped. Bills in bars and restaurants include a service charge incorporated into the prices, but it’s customary to round out your bill with some small change unless you’re dissatisfied. The amount varies: anywhere from €0.50, if you’ve merely bought a beer, to €1–€3 (or more) after a meal. Tip taxi drivers and hair stylists about 10%. In some theaters and hotels, coat-check attendants may expect nothing (if there’s a sign saying POURBOIRE INTERDIT—tips forbidden); otherwise give them €0.50–€1. Washroom attendants usually get €0.50, though the sum is often posted.

If you stay in a hotel for more than two or three days, it’s customary to leave something for the chambermaid—about €1.50 per day. In expensive hotels you may well call on the services of a baggage porter (bellhop) and hotel porter and possibly the telephone receptionist. All expect a tip: plan on about €1.50 per item for the baggage porter, but the other tips will depend on how much you’ve used their services—common sense must guide you here. In hotels that provide room service, give €1 to the waiter (this does not apply to breakfast served in your room). If the chambermaid does some pressing, give her €1 on top of the charge made. If the concierge has been helpful, it’s customary to leave a tip of €10–€20.

Museum guides should get €1–€1.50 after a guided tour.

VISITOR INFORMATION

All major cities and most small towns have tourism offices that can provide information on accommodation and sightseeing and maps.

France Tourism Information: Maison de la France (514/288–1904 | www.franceguide.com) is the national site for French tourism.

Tourism Web Sites: Tourism in France (www.tourisme.fr) has links to 3,500 tourist offices.

ONLINE TRAVEL TOOLS

All About France: The Centre des Monuments Nationaux (www.monum.fr) runs 200 monuments—from the Arc de Triomphe to Chambord—and is chock-full of information. If you’re château hopping, Chateaux and Country (www.chateauxandcountry.com) has a brief overview of hundreds of châteaux all over France. The French Ministry of Culture (www.culture.fr) provides a portal to all the cultural happenings and institutions throughout France. French National Museums (www.rmn.fr) is the main site for the Réunion des musées nationaux, which administers the country’s biggest museums.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Contents

FODOR’S NORMANDY, BRITTANY & THE BEST OF THE NORTH

Editors: Robert I.C. Fisher, Salwa Jabado

Editorial Contributors: Andrew Collins, Linda Dannenberg, Jennifer Ditsler-Ladonne, John Fanning, Sarah Fraser, Linda Hervieux, Rosa Jackson, Christopher Mooney, George Semler, Heather Stimmler-Hall

Copyright

Copyright © 2011 by Fodor’s Travel, a division of Random House, Inc.

Fodor’s is a registered trademark of Random House, Inc.

All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Fodor’s Travel, a division of Random House, Inc., and in Canada by Random House of Canada, Limited, Toronto. Distributed by Random House, Inc., New York.

No maps, illustrations, or other portions of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

1st Edition

ISBN 978-0-307-92858-0

Excerpted from Fodor’s France (ISBN 1-4000-0473-7)

AN IMPORTANT TIP & AN INVITATION

Although all prices, opening times, and other details in this work are based on information supplied to us at publication, changes occur all the time in the travel world, and Fodor’s cannot accept responsibility for facts that become outdated or for inadvertent errors or omissions. So always confirm information when it matters, especially if you’re making a detour to visit a specific place. Your experiences—positive and negative—matter to us. If we have missed or misstated something, please write to us. We follow up on all suggestions. Contact us at fodors.com/contact-us.

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Photo Credits

Normandy, Brittany, and the Best of the North Cover, Terraxplorer/istockphoto.

Normandy, Brittany, and the Best of the North Contents, Lya_Cattel/istockphoto.

Experience Normandy, Brittany, and the Best of the North, Rudi Vandeputte/shutterstock.

France Today, jovannig/shutterstock.

What’s Where, clodio/istockphoto.

Planner, Meiqianbao/shutterstock

Getting Around, Normandy Houses by Ian Parkes http://www.flickr.com/photos/parksy/33415567/Attribution-License

Top Attractions, Katarzyna Mazurowska/shutterstock.

Top Experiences, Mary Jane Glauber, Fodors.com member.

Quintessential France, S.Perry/istockphoto.

Lodging Primer, Tree4Two/istockphoto.

When to Go, Georgethefourth/istockphoto.

Normandy, iStockphoto.

Introducing Normandy, iStockphoto/thinkstock.

Normandy Planner, Pack-Shot/shutterstock.

Getting Around, Thomas Barrat/shuterstock.

Upper Normandy, kompasstudio/istockphoto.

Honfleur to Mont St-Michel, Veni/istockphoto.

Normandy In Depth, Brasil2/istockphoto.

Brittany, Chris Marlow, Fodors.com member.

Introducing Brittany, schwaja, Fodors.com member.

Brittany Planner, iStockphoto.

Getting Around, Elena Elisseeva/iStockphoto.

Northeast Brittany and the Channel Coast, Guillaume Dubé/iStockphoto.

The Atlantic Coast, clu/iStockphoto.

Brittany In Depth, Eric Fahrner/shutterstock.

Champagne Country, Mattana/wikipedia.org.

Introducing Champagne Country, teresaevans, Fodor.com member.

Champagne Country Planner, mbritt275, Fodors.com member.

Getting Around, PHB.cz (Richard Semik)/shutterstock.

Champagne, Michel de Nijs/iStockphoto.

Excursion: the Cathedral Cities, Claudio Giovanni Colombo/Shutterstock.

Champagne Country In Depth, Gyukli Gyula/shutterstock.

Alsace-Lorraine, busterx, Fodors.com member.

Introducing Alsace-Lorraine, Brian Ferrigno, Fodors.com member.

Alsace-Lorraine Planner, chasmer/shutterstock.

Getting Around, Mary Jane Glauber, Fodors.com member.

Nancy, Orlik Meert/shutterstock.

Lorraine: Joan of Arc Country, Public domain.

Strausbourg, Franco Volpato/shutterstock.

Alsace, Pack-Shot/shutterstock.

Alsace-Lorraine In Depth, klondike, Fodors.com member.

Paris, TEA/shutterstock.

Introducing Paris, Steven Allan/iStockphoto.

Paris Planner, jan kranendonk/Shutterstock.

Getting Around, Ferenc Cegledi/Shutterstock.

Exploring Paris, Joanne Rosensweig. Where to Eat in Paris, Laurence MOUTON.

Where to Stay, Fabrice Rambert. Nightlife and the Arts in Paris, Joanne Rosensweig.

Shopping in Paris, Patrick Hermans/shutterstock.

Paris in Depth, Bensliman/Shutterstock.

Travel Smart Frnce, Elena Elisseeva/Shutterstock.

Getting Here and Around, 2008-08-17_Paris_16 by Pierre LANNES http://www.flickr.com/photos/titounet/2779991703/ Attribution-ShareAlike License.

Essentials, Galina Barskaya/Shutterstock.