Lonely Planet Hawaii the Big Island
Author: Jade Bremner
Date: 0101-01-01 00:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Travel
Description: Lonely Planet's local travel experts reveal all you need to know to plan the trip of a lifetime to Hawai'i the Big Island. Discover popular and off the beaten track experiences from visiting the 44ft 'Akaka Falls surrounded by lush rainforests to snorkelling at Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park, and dining with the locals at the lively Kamuela Farmers Market. Build a trip to remember with Lonely Planet's Hawai'i the Big Island travel guide: Our classic guidebook format provides you with the most comprehensive level of information for planning multi-week trips Updated with an all new structu
Publisher: Lonely Planet

Hawai‘i the Big Island

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

The Journey Begins Here

Hawai‘i the Big Island Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared

The Hawaiian Arts

Surfing Big Island

The Food Scene

The Outdoors

Action Areas

THE GUIDE

KAILUA-KONA & THE KONA COAST

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Kailua-Kona

Beyond Kailua-Kona

Hōlualoa

Beyond Hōlualoa

Captain Cook

Beyond Captain Cook

HILO & THE HĀMĀKUA COAST

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Hilo

Honomū, Hakalau & Laupāhoehoe

Honokaʻa

Waipiʻo Valley

HAWAIʻI VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK & KAʻŪ

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

Kaʻū

KOHALA & WAIMEA

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Waikōloa Resort Area

Beyond Waikōloa Resort Area

Waimea/Kamuela

Beyond Waimea

Hawi

Beyond Hawi

MAUNA KEA & SADDLE ROAD

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Saddle Road

Mauna Kea

TOOLKIT

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodations

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travelers

Accessible Travel

‘Native Hawaiian’ Versus ‘Local’

Nuts & Bolts

STORYBOOK

A History of Hawai‘i the Big Island in 15 Places

Meet a Big Island Local

Living in the Land of Frozen Fire

Protecting the Big Island’s Wildlife

This Book

HAWAI‘I THE BIG ISLAND

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

With 10 different climate zones, Big Island (the island of Hawai‘i) is one of the most ecologically diverse places on Earth. Roads wind through otherworldly lava fields and rolling green hills, hikes traverse dramatic valleys and tropical rainforests, and the island’s rugged coastline and aquamarine waters teem with marine life.

The largest and youngest in the archipelago, Big Island is still growing. Four lava-spewing volcanoes, including the highly active Kīlauea – home of the fire goddess Pele – and Mauna Loa, the largest volcano in the world, regularly create and destroy in equal measure.

Big Island is five times the size of Oahu but has just a fifth of the population, meaning there’s room to breathe and life is notably more laid-back. Lava flows have warded off the modern development seen on nearby islands, and much of Big Island remains a Hawaii from the past. Big Island’s power and uniqueness are never-ending sources of awe.

Mauna Kea | Michael Runkel/Getty Images ©

Jade Bremner

@jadeob

Jade is a journalist and editor specializing in adventure travel. She has authored more than 45 books.

WHO GOES WHERE

Another of our writers discusses an experience that, for them, defines Hawai‘i the Big Island.

Ocean Image Photography/Shutterstock ©

One starry night off Kona, I plunged into the open ocean for a blackwater dive (pictured), and it felt like floating around weightless in a dark, giant bathtub, or maybe like outer space? Perhaps that’s because thousands of tiny, gelatinous creatures were drifting by and dancing like aliens in the beam of my underwater flashlight. The experience was very spooky, and utterly magical.

Ashley Harrell

Ashley is a California-based freelance journalist who writes about travel and the outdoors. She’s co-authored more than 50 Lonely Planet books across the Americas, Southeast Asia and Africa.

FIRE & WATER

Big Island offers completely opposing worlds and climates, so you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve just traveled thousands of miles in a single day. Dramatic volcanoes belch smoke and lava mere minutes from plant-filled balmy rainforests and tumbling waterfalls. It’s easy to explore barren rocky moon-like lava fields and forest-clasped cascades all in one day and feel the mighty natural power of Hawaii’s youngest island.

Janice Wei/Getty Images ©

Volcano Warnings

Exploring active volcanoes should be done responsibly. Before hiking, check for updates on recent activity at the Kīlauea Visitor Center or on the US Geological Survey (usgs.gov) website.

bennymarty/Getty Images ©

Tours

Some of Big Island’s secret waterfalls are surrounded by private land and are best explored by tour. These offer uncrowded hikes to cascades and swimming in waterfall pools.

Jordan Siemens/Getty Images ©

Permits

These are required for overnight backcountry volcano exploring. Get a permit for cabin stays within Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park no more than 24 hours in advance from the Backcountry Office.

BEST VOLCANO & WATERFALL EXPERIENCES

Cool down with a refreshing swim in the inviting pool surrounding the 80ft-high 1 Wai‘ale Falls, after a short trek through tropical rainforests near Hilo.

Take a stroll to the 442ft 2 ʻAkaka Falls (pictured) surrounded by lush rainforests and tropical plants.

Drive to the summit of 3 Mauna Kea for sunset above the clouds and some of the best stargazing on Earth come nightfall.

Peer into smoking craters surrounded by lava flow at the mind-blowing 4 Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.

Witness the magnificent 5 Rainbow Falls (Waiānuenue) from a scenic overlook – visit in the morning for kaleidoscopic colors in the mist of the cascade.

UNDER THE SEA

Big Island’s diving and snorkeling opportunities are simply phenomenal. Visibility can reach a staggering 80ft to 100ft in its pristine lava coves and turquoise waters. Marine life-spotting possibilities are endless – clouds of colorful tropical reef fish and endangered honu (green sea turtles), plus manta rays and pods of spinner dolphins are daily sights, while November to April is migrating humpback season. Snorkeling sites are easily accessible, though a boat is required for the more remote dive sites.

Douglas Klug/Getty Images ©

Protect Coral

Reef-safe mineral sunscreen is required (by law) when diving and snorkeling Big Island. Don’t handle or break coral with fins or feet; these valuable habitats take years to grow.

bennymarty/shutterstock ©

Responsible Encounters

Numerous endangered, threatened and indigenous species can be found in Big Island’s waters. Help ensure their survival by avoiding feeding, interacting or swimming with aquatic creatures.

Henner Damke/Shutterstock ©

Highs & Lows

Remember not to ascend to the lofty heights of Mauna Kea or Mauna Loa within 24 hours of a dive to avoid getting the bends.

BEST DIVING & SNORKELING SITES

Swim through the lava tube at dive site 1 Suck ’Em Up near Kaiwi Point, which got its name by literally sucking divers down then depositing them at the surface.

Divers can see green turtles use a ‘turtle cleaning site’ north of Kona, dubbed 2 Turtle Pinnacle, where small fish feed on the algae on their shells.

Snorkel at beautiful and historic 3 Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park for an aquarium of coral forests and colored tropical fish.

Join a 4 Sea Paradise snorkel tour off Keauhou Bay for manta rays (pictured) up to 14ft in length gliding out of the darkness and feeding in the plankton-rich waters south of Kona.

Embark on a surreal and beautiful 5 Blackwater Dive off the West Coast to see pelagics drift out of the darkness and bioluminescent marine life glow in the dark.

CULTURE DIVE

Big Island may be the youngest but it’s also one of the most culturally significant islands in the chain. From here, King Kamehameha ‘united’ the Hawaiian islands and it remains the current home of fire Goddess Pele, creator of the archipelago, who is believed to live in the mighty Kīlauea.

Alvis Upitis/Getty Images ©

Sacred Sites

Don’t touch or hike on anything sacred. Be aware of heiau (temple) ruins, which may not be marked, and heed signs reading ‘kapu’ – this means ‘taboo,’ so do not enter.

Luau or Not

Commercial luaus (Hawaiian feasts) vary in degree of authenticity but do offer a taste of local dishes from poi (steamed, pounded taro) to kālua pig (slow-roasted pork).

BEST MUSEUMS & CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

Enjoy the magnificent 1 Lyman Museum in Hilo, before touring Mission House, the oldest wooden structure in Hawaii.

Understand the spiritual significance of Big Island’s most active volcano at 2 Kīlauea Visitor Center & Museum.

Spelunk through the lava tubes of 3 Kula Kai Caverns, where ancient Hawaiians stayed the night while traveling.

Attend Hilo’s 4 Merrie Monarch Festival – a celebration of Hawaiian hula dance.

Discover how ancient Polynesian ocean voyagers navigated the skies at the 5 ʻImiloa Astronomy Center of Hawaiʻi in Hilo.

EPIC DRIVES

Big Island’s wild geography and sprawling size make it ripe for a road trip. Open roads go through classic scenery – bucolic pastures, lush rainforests and coastlines with infinite Pacific Ocean views. But this volcanic isle also offers drives you won’t easily find elsewhere – meandering single-lane tarmac through Mars-like lava plateaus and routes skirting active craters that belch steam as you pass.

4WD

Major Big Island roads are paved and in good condition, but many small gravel, lava or sand roads to more obscure attractions are only passable by 4WD.

darekm101/Getty Images ©

Rental Agreements

Some rental companies will not tow cars (even 4WDs) from certain dirt roads. Check your agreement before off-roading to avoid hefty breakdown fees.

Westend61/Getty Images ©

Know Your Limits

Some roads require high-altitude driving or serious skill to navigate large boulders and sharp lava rocks. Don’t attempt drives that are out of your comfort zone.

BEST DRIVING EXPERIENCES

Tour 1 Chain of Craters Road on the edge of cranky Kīlauea for fuming steam vents and southern slopes where hardened lava meets the sea.

Cruise along Mamalahoa Hwy through Kaʻū to 2 South Point Road for clifftop views, agricultural expanses, wind turbines, and an infamous cliff-jumping spot near the island’s southernmost point.

Soak in the rugged beauty of 3 Hāmākua Coast between Hilo and the lush Waipiʻo Valley, with rainforests, quaint plantation towns and pounding surf.

Experience what Mars might be like – 4 Mauna Loa Observatory Rd is a thrilling single-lane route through barren black lava fields on the world’s largest active volcano.

Take in jaw-dropping pastoral views driving north between Waimea and Hawi on 5 Kohala Mountain Rd.

BIG ISLAND BEACHES

Lava flows have historically destroyed many of Big Island’s beaches, but the rugged Hawaiian island shouldn’t be written off as a beach destination. Numerous postcard-perfect white sandy beaches can be found in the northwest, and striking ebony sand beaches hide between soaring emerald valleys carved by pounding waves. Getting to them is part of the adventure; the best ones are secluded, and usually only accessible by 4WD tracks or hiking trails.

Susanne Pommer/shutterstock ©

Turtles & Seals

Stay at least 50ft from endangered Hawaiian monk seals and 150ft from a mom with pups, and do not disturb or touch endangered green sea turtles.

dschreiber29/iStockphoto/Getty Images ©

Gear & Refreshments

Many Big Island beaches are remote – it’s advisable to bring water, sunscreen and a picnic, plus all the beach equipment you might need (snorkels, umbrellas, chairs etc).

Lisa A/ shutterstock ©

Lifeguards

Families may prefer to visit bays with lifeguards on patrol. Those who prefer remote spots should check ocean conditions before wading out. Strong undertows and currents can be fatal. For a list of patrolled beaches see oceansafety.hawaii.gov.

BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES

Uncrowded, crescent-shaped 1 Mauna Kea Beach (Kaunaʻoa Beach) is the one you’ll see in brochures, with powdery sand, gentle turquoise waters and wonderful snorkeling.

Uncrowded crowded 2 Kīholo State Park Reserve is a black-sand beauty with regular sea turtle sightings and a swimmable lava tube.

Family-friendly 3 Richardson Ocean Park in Hilo makes up for very little sand with calm pools of tropical fish for snorkeling and green-sea-turtle-spotting.

For a remote and rugged black-sand beach in a valley clasped by pleated hillsides, follow the steep switchbacks for 0.75 miles along the 4 Pololū Valley Trail (pictured).

Hike or 4WD drive 2.5 miles along the rugged boulder-filled trail to 5 Makalawena Beach to be rewarded with pillow-soft sand and piercing blue-green waters.

BUDGET BIG ISLAND

Hawaii imports most of its food due to its remote location in the Pacific Ocean, so everyday items can be eye-wateringly expensive. That said, Big Island is considered one of the cheaper islands and budget accommodations can be found. Skip the car rental for public transport and use free or low-cost attractions to save big, without scrimping on fun.

Png Studio Photography/shutterstock ©

Hostels

A handful of hostels, including Arnott’s Lodge in Hilo and Kona Beach Hostel, offer cheaper stays, usually in shared or private rooms with a shared bathroom and kitchen.

Pung/shutterstock ©

Camping & Cabins

If you have the gear, staying in a tent or cabin in state and county parks can save you stacks of dough. Permits are required for national park backcountry camping.

swissmediavision/getty images ©

Local Bus

At the time of writing, Big Island’s Hele-On Bus service was completely free. More than a dozen routes run around the island, including a useful service between the walkable downtown areas of Hilo and Kona. Most routes are used by commuters.

BEST MONEY-SAVING EXPERIENCES

Rent a HIBike for a couple of dollars from a docking station on Hilo’s 1 Banyan Dr and explore the gargantuan trees with spindly roots.

Explore exotic plants and meet tropical birds, frogs and creatures from further afield including alligators, monkeys and a pair of Bengal tigers at 2 Panaʻewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens (pictured).

Pay the inexpensive entrance fee ($30 for cars with up to 14 passengers) for 3 Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park to access days of trails, plus free cultural programs on Hawaiian music, history and natural wonders.

The 4 Kamuela Farmers Market and Hāmākua Harvest Farmers Market are places to taste community life, with inexpensive eats, live music and free samples.

Eat local. Heaped bowls of poke, carb-y plate lunches, ramen and rice bowls are inexpensive, such as those at 5 Harmoni Foods.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

ITINERARIES

Culture & Outdoor Adventures

Allow: 5–6 days    Distance: 49.4 miles

The green east coast is home to Big Island’s largest city, Hilo, a former plantation town with a thriving food scene, thanks to nearby produce and a diverse indigenous and immigrant population. History gives way to botanical gardens, waterfalls and rainforests along the Hāmākua Coast, where travelers can bed down in sleepy Western-style towns.

Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden | Faina Gurevich/shutterstock ©

1 HILO 2 DAYS

Fuel up in Big Island’s capital with a healthy breakfast and island-grown coffee at one of the bohemian cafes, before riding waves at the Bayfront break. Hit the Hilo Farmers Market to peruse locally made gifts. Pay a visit to one of several insightful museums, such at the Lyman Museum, to learn about Hawaiian culture, before wandering the Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden.

Lorraine Boogich/Getty Images ©

2 HONOMŪ 1 DAY

Start early to view Rainbow Falls (pictured) and take a refreshing dip in Wai‘ale Falls, before grabbing pastries in one of Honomū’s cute wooden-fronted buildings, such as Mr Ed’s Bakery. Head into the hills for the next waterfall of the day – the mighty rainforest-shrouded ‘Akaka Falls. Finish your day with Hawaii Zipline Tours, soaring over tropical farmlands.

SCStock/shutterstock ©

3 HONOKAʻA 1 DAY

Join a paniolo-style horseback ride in the Hakalau countryside, then stop for a picnic and swim at Umauma Falls (pictured). Spend the afternoon exploring the laid-back town of Honokaʻa, with its terrific museum, vintage theater and collection of old-fashioned pastel-colored buildings. While here, go on a cacao farm tour at Honokaʻa Chocolates before settling in for the evening at Honokaʻa Public House.

Peter French/Design Pics/getty images ©

4 WAIPIʻO VALLEY 1 TO 2 DAYS

Join a Waipiʻo Valley Shuttle Tour to take in the soaring views and wild empty beach (pictured) of the sacred ‘Valley of the Kings.’ Afterward, peruse handmade Hawaiian timber pieces at Waipiʻo Valley Artworks. Experienced hikers with their own kit can embark on the epic Muliwai Trail, zigzagging up the side of Waipiʻo’s western wall before camping overnight at the remote Waimanu Campground.

David Shvartsman/getty images ©

ITINERARIES

Coastal Wonders

Allow: 7 days    Distance: 118.6 miles

Big Island’s west coast, from the north to its most southerly point, runs the gamut of beach types: hidden windswept coves between lush green valleys, postcard-perfect white sandy crescents, fierce rocky shores with ebony pebbles and deserted bays below soaring cliffs. There’s even one with green sand.

Hāpuna Beach | Anna Abramskaya/Shutterstock ©

1 NORTH KOHALA 1 DAY

Go on a hike into Hawi’s Pololū Valley in Big Island’s northwest, where pleated emerald valleys stretch into the horizon, and a short but steep mile-long trail leads to an untamed black-sand beach, ideal for a picnic. Take the scenic route through North Kohala via Waimea on Kohala Mountain Road for jaw-dropping green pastoral views, and see three of the island’s powerful volcanos: Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Hualālai. Stop in Waimea for excellent farm-to-table restaurants.

2 SOUTH KOHALA 1 DAY

Beach hop southern Kohala’s coastline, where idyllic bays of soft white sand such as Hāpuna Beach have electric-teal waters with swarms of tropical marine life. Beyond the beaches, culture and history can be found in the form of several ancient heiau (temples), petroglyphs and fishponds, where morsels were raised for aliʻi (chiefs and royalty). Many of these historic spots are now idyllic bathing areas.

3 KAILUA-KONA 2 DAYS

Wander the tourist shops for gifts and fill your belly with local grinds, before renting a board (surf if there are waves; paddleboard if there are none) and head to one of the many surf spots – Pine Trees to the north of town, or Banyans and Kahaluʻu Beach Park to the south. The latter has decent snorkeling in the bay. Tiny Magic Sands Beach is the place for bodyboarding, family swimming and gorgeous sunsets.

4 KONA COAST 2 DAYS

Take a boat along the coastline or snorkel with one of the many operators leaving from Keauhou Harbor, bound for the mesmerizing Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park. This wonderful snorkeling site is a natural aquarium of aquatic life, including shoals of fish, green sea turtles and spinner dolphins. Captain Cook was killed at this bay – an obelisk on shore marks his death. By night, snorkelers float by torchlight in the plankton-rich waters of Keauhou Bay to watch majestic 14ft manta rays (pictured) hoover up dinner.

Photo by Barry Fackler/Getty Images ©

5 KA LAE 1 DAY

Drive through Kaʻū to Ka Lae (South Point; pictured) by 4WD for an utterly different perspective – rural ranches lead to windswept beaches, below high cliffs with soaring views of nothing but deep blue ocean. Cliff jump if you dare (and conditions are safe to do so), near the southerly tip of the US, off a 40ft ledge over crystal-clear waters.

Detour: Green Sand Beach is a rare thing – the greeny tint here is caused by crystals of olivine (known as Hawaiian diamonds). Find it via a dusty, windy coastal hike 2.5 miles east of South Point. 4 hours.

Jeff W Jarrett/shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

Volcano Encounters

Allow: 5 days    Distance: 90 miles

Six volcanoes make up Hawaii’s youngest island. Two, Mahukona and Kohala, are dormant. Hualālai, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Kīlauea, however, are very much active – at the time of writing the latter two last erupted in 2022 and 2023, respectively. The world’s tallest volcano, Mauna Kea, and its largest, Mauna Loa, can both be summited.

Mauna Loa | Michael Szonyi/Getty Images ©

1 HAWAIʻI VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK 2 DAYS

The enormous national park has six of Earth’s climate zones. Drives cover rugged lava fields, hikes traverse ash desert and rainforest flora, and paths descend into lava tubes and calderas, showcasing the power of Big Island’s two most active volcanoes: Mauna Loa and Kīlauea (pictured). Halemaʻumaʻu regularly billows smoke and spews lava.

IMV/GETTY IMAGES ©

2 SADDLE ROAD 1 DAY

The main cross-island route from east to west climbs the hump of Big Island bisecting its two biggest volcanoes – the loftiest, Mauna Kea (13,803ft/4207m; pictured), and the largest, Mauna Loa (13,681ft/4170m). Road-tripping here offers different worlds, moon-like lava fields, lush tropical rainforests and rolling green pastures – all in one hit. Stretch your legs on hikes through historic lava and high-altitude flora.

DEVOAND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 MAUNA KEA 1 DAY

Mighty Mauna Kea, measured from its underwater base to its summit, soars 33,476ft. That’s higher than Everest. The half-paved, half-gravel Mauna Kea Access Rd (4WD) winds to the volcano summit for epic sunsets and some of the best stargazing on Earth (thanks to unparalleled clarity). Expert hikers can embark on a challenging high-altitude climb to the top of the ‘tallest’ mountain on Earth.

YOULI ZHAO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 MAUNA LOA 1 DAY

Mauna Kea gets all the attention, but Mauna Loa is only a fraction (122ft/37m) shorter and is just as thrilling to explore. The Mauna Loa Observatory Road (pictured) is a lesser-traveled single-lane road winding through otherworldly volcanic terrain to the volcano’s only observatory. From here, a challenging 6.4-mile backcountry hike meanders to the humbling 4-mile long and 600ft-deep caldera Moku‘āweoweo.

KELSIE DIPERNA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ITINERARIES

Off the Beaten Track

Allow: 4 days    Distance: 178 miles

For those who have a good chunk of time on Big Island, have ticked off the major sights and want to get far, far away from the crowds, this driving route offers scenic views galore and something refreshing – the chance to indulge in laid-back local life on farms, explore empty trails and indulge in lesser-known island wonders.

Hā‘ena Beach | Rob Hainer/shutterstock ©

1 KAʻŪ 1 DAY

In this area below the Kona Coast, hotels and tour operators give way to open pastures and wind-ravaged coastline. Manadina Farm is a delightful stop, offering guided tours through a permaculture food forest and delicious lunches. Then descend into the centuries-old lava tubes of Kula Kai Caverns (pictured), for a chance to roam passageways used by ancient Hawaiians for shelter.

TOMASZ DUTKIEWICZ/GETTY IMAGES ©

2 KEA‘AU 1 DAY

Hidden in the sleepy residential area of Kea‘au is a terrific muddy, jungly hike to the remote, picturesque, black-and-white-sand Hā‘ena Beach, known for its honu (green sea turtles; pictured). Ten miles inland, the Kīlauea Caverns of Fire – reportedly the longest and deepest lava tube in the world – offer tours into the dark cavities of Big Island.

M SWIET PRODUCTIONS/GETTY IMAGES ©

3 WAIMEA 1 DAY

Big Island’s cowboy capital is where passions run high for rodeo and horseback riding through rolling green hills. Paniolo Heritage Center is the place to learn about Hawaii’s cattle ranching industry and lifestyle, while various ranches and stables will get visitors living it, trotting or cantering through breathtaking countryside.

VW Pics/Getty Images ©

4 HAWI 1 DAY

This tiny Western-style town in the north has a big appetite. It’s barely two blocks – but punches above its weight when it comes to bohemian cafes and locavore dining, galleries and artisanal gifts. Sample interesting takes on Hawaii regional dishes – from poke (pictured) and fresh fish plates to fusion tropical sushi rolls – on a heady gastronomic adventure.

bhofack2/iStockphoto/Getty Images ©

WHEN TO GO

Big Island is mostly warm and tropical year-round, but the climate can be wildly different within a short drive.

One of Big Island’s most fascinating qualities is its diverse weather. It has 10 climate zones in a relatively small area of 4028 sq miles (with the longest part of the island only 93 miles north to south). In a short drive you can find yourself in tropical monsoon, dry arid desert, or snowy winter conditions on its highest peaks. Visitors to Big Island can have multiple types of vacation, from lying on the beach in the west’s dry climate to exploring lush green tropical rainforests and tumbling waterfalls in the east, thanks to an abundance of rainfall. Warm weather can be found year-round on Big Island, with the warmest months being August and September and the coolest February and March.

I LIVE HERE

Dante Leuenberger, boat captain at Fair Wind Cruises @fairwindcruises

Kona has beautiful weather year-round. June to August offers warmer water temperatures and the vibrant atmosphere of summer vacation. November through April is humpback whale season, a delightful annual spectacle that always inspires awe. During fall and late spring, Kealakekua Bay is quieter and more peaceful – marine life feels it as well and is often more active. But you can’t go wrong visiting Kona any time of year.

HIGHS & LOWS

At sea level the weather remains a consistent 75–85°F (23–29°C), but there’s always the option to cool right down atop Hawaii’s highest mountain, Mauna Kea, which mainly hovers around 32°F (0°C) and dips to –19°F (–7°C) in the cooler months.

Accommodations Lowdown

High seasons are less about weather and more about worldwide public holidays, with increased demand for accommodations in August during school holidays and in December, around the festivities.

Mauna Kea | LUC KOHNEN/shutterstock ©

WEST SIDE

Locals call the leeward side of the island the ‘sunny side.’ This is the ultimate beach weather destination, remaining dry most of the year thanks to the high mountains in the middle of the island, which stop most of the rain coming from the east.

Cultural Festivals

Merrie Monarch Festival Named after King David Kalākaua, the ‘merrie monarch’ who restored Hawaiian traditions during his reign, this festival in Hilo is a big sell-out three-day celebration of the Hawaiian hula dance. March/April

Lei Day Hawaii celebrates Lei Day in spring. Hilo’s Kalākaua Park has lei-making demonstrations and music, plus hula and floral arrangements. May

King Kamehameha Day A public holiday across Hawaii, honoring the monarch. The biggest celebrations occur in the small northern town of Kohala where he was born, with a pāʻū parade with horses, flowers and hula. June

Laupāhoehoe Music Festival For a taste of Hawaiian music, this festival on the Hāmākua Coast draws a crowd with Hawaiian crafts and cultural demonstrations such as poi pounding. April

Food & Drink Festivals

Kona Coffee Cultural Festival With artisanal markets, lantern parades and farmer talks, this festival celebrates local caffeinated brews and more. November

Farm Fest The place to meet local growers and try in-season produce fresh from the fields. It’s part of Honokaʻa Western Week in Hāmākua. May

Kona Brewers Festival Craft beer fans can try the most inventive new local brews paired with local grinds at this festival in Kailua-Kona, which donates proceeds to local charities. March

Ka‘ū Coffee Festival For live cultural performance plus all things coffee, from learning how to make a proper cup of joe to discovering how coffee is produced, head to this aromatic festival in the small southeast town of Pahala. June

I LIVE HERE

Breeani Kobayashi, hotel general manager at SCP Hilo @scphilo

As a native of Hilo, I love the rainy season – November through April. As Hawaiians, we believe that rain is a sign of a blessing and a symbol of growth and abundance. When the rain comes it takes the old and replenishes us with new growth. In Hilo it rains on average 130 inches a year, so we have lots of blessings. After a hard downpour, I enjoy going to Rainbow Falls, where there’s a high chance of seeing rainbows in the morning.

Rainbow Falls | Claudine Van Massenhove/shutterstock ©

EAST SIDE

Humid ocean air is pushed into Big Island via the east or windward side, which receives abundant rainfall year-round. Hilo gets more than 270 days of rain a year on average; these come in short and long bursts (in summer and winter respectively), feeding the area’s lush green rainforests.

Weather Through the Year (Kailua-Kona)

JANUARY

Average daytime max: 82°F/28°C

Average rainfall: 2.4in

FEBRUARY

Average daytime max: 82°F/28°C

Average rainfall: 1.5in

MARCH

Average daytime max: 82°F/28°C

Average rainfall: 2.2in

APRIL

Average daytime max: 84°F/29°C

Average rainfall: 2.2in

MAY

Average daytime max: 84°F/29°C

Average rainfall: 2.5in

JUNE

Average daytime max: 85°F/29°C

Average rainfall: 2.4in

JULY

Average daytime max: 86°F/30°C

Average rainfall: 2.8in

AUGUST

Average daytime max: 87°F/31°C

Average rainfall: 2in

SEPTEMBER

Average daytime max: 87°F/31°C

Average rainfall: 2.8in

OCTOBER

Average daytime max: 86°F/30°C

Average rainfall: 2in

NOVEMBER

Average daytime max: 85°F/29°C

Average rainfall: 1.6in

DECEMBER

Average daytime max: 82°F/28°C

Average rainfall: 1.7in

GET PREPARED

FOR BIG ISLAND

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain.

ʻAkaka Falls State Park | John Elk/Getty Images ©

Clothes

Dining out Big Island is casual; only at certain high-end resorts do visitors need to wear a smart dress or blazer. With warm weather all year round, shorts and flip-flops are typical attire, and restaurants will not turn you away. But most wear jeans, trousers or casual dresses for an evening out.

Outdoor activities Pack sportswear for active pursuits, and hiking boots with ankle support for exploring rugged volcanic terrain. A raincoat or fold-down mac is useful for exploring Hilo and the Hāmākua Coast, where sudden downpours are common. Rash vests and mineral sunscreen are essential when surfing and snorkeling.

Volcano summits A warm padded coat (or ski wear) is necessary for summiting Mauna Kea or Mauna Loa, which can drop to 32°F (0°C) at night.

Manners

Be polite, courteous and patient – island time is slower than in big cities. Learn the pronunciations of Hawaiian words where possible – an attempt is appreciated. Don’t enter private property or walk on sacred sites. Don’t take away lava or shells. Ask before picking fruit or flowers on private property. Don’t take off a lei garland in front of the person who gave it to you – it’s rude.

READ

Shoal of Time (Gavan Daws; 1968) Engrossing and accessible narrative on the history of Hawaii.

Kapoho: Memoir of a Modern Pompeii (Frances Kakugawa; 2011) Memories of the town Kapoho, which was eradicated by lava flow.

The Sound of Hilo Rain (Roy Kodani; 2014) Tales of the old plantation days in Hilo.

Volcano: A Memoir of Hawaiʻi (Garrett Hongo; 1996) Part memoir, part natural history by a poet who spent long periods in the town of Volcano.

Words
aloha (uh loh huh) Used as a greeting instead of hello and goodbye, to signal love, peace, compassion
mahalo (mu haa low) Thank you
kapu (ka poo) Taboo; on signs it means no trespassing or keep out

‘a‘ ole pilikia You’re welcome/No problem
honu (hoe new) Green sea turtle

‘ono grinds (oh no grinds) Good local food
poke (poh kay) Raw fish rice bowl
howzit? (how zit) How are you?

wahine (wah hee neh) Woman; may be on the restroom door
kane (kah neh) Man
kama‘aina (kah mah ie nah) People of the land – native Hawaiians or locals; there is usually a kama’aina discount at hotels

‘ohana (oh hah nah) Family or community

Spam musubi (mu su bee) A snack served at service stations and hole-in-the-wall joints made of crispy Spam and rice and wrapped in seaweed
keiki (keh ee kee) Children; look for the keiki menu in restaurants
e komo mai (eh koh-moh-my) Welcome
ahi (ahh he) Yellowfin and bigeye tuna
poi (poy) Local food made of pounded taro
kālua pua’a (nah loo ah poo ahh) Pork slow-roasted in an underground oven

ʻāina (eye nah) Land
shaka (shah kah) Hand gesture with the little finger and thumb extended and middle fingers closed and facing forward; also known as the ‘hang loose sign,’ it’s used as a greeting and to say thanks
kupuna ( koo-poo-nah) Elders – given the utmost respect in Hawaii

WATCH

Robert Crow/Shutterstock ©

Kīlauea: Hawaiʻi on Fire (2020) Sensational NOVA documentary on the carnage that ensued as a result of the 2018 eruption.

Hometown Legends (2022) Documentary highlighting the Big Island kūpuna (older people) and the value they bring to society.

Seeds of Hope (2012) Interviews with Big Island farmers about the challenges they face competing with development and its effects.

Black Widow (1987) Crime drama with scenes filmed in Hilo’s Kaikodo Building – now home to Jackie Rey’s restaurant.

Song of South Kona (1986) Evocative documentary with songs and tales of Miloli‘i, the ‘last Hawaiian fishing village.’

LISTEN

Tell U What (Brittni Paiva; 2012) Groovy American award-winning ‘ukulele player, bassist, guitarist and keyboardist.

Lei Lehua (Mark Yamanaka; 2018) Hilo falsetto vocalist with Japanese heritage and Hawaiian soul.

E Walea (Kalani Pe‘a; 2016) First Hawaiian music recording artist to win a Grammy (for Best Regional Roots Music Album); born in Hilo.

Slack Key Guitar Volume 2 (Various; 2003) Features the masterful slack key artist John Keawe from Hāwī in North Kohala.

TRIP PLANNER

THE HAWAIIAN ARTS

Spanning dance, music and textiles, Native Hawaiian arts still have huge significance in local culture. Media include kapa (geometric designs on textiles), wood and stone carvings, tattoos and hula. These disciplines are a way for visitors to further understand local indigenous Hawaiian beliefs, symbolism and lineage.

Performers, Puʻuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park | Joanna K Drakos/shutterstock ©

Types of Cultural Arts

Cultural arts on Big Island are embodiments of Hawaiian spirit and history. They include labor-intensive methods kaula (braiding), hip‘u (knot making) and ulana (plaiting) – all typically done with trees and plants, and used to make pots, clothing and bedding. Designs are often decorated with geometric patterns, especially on kapa fabric (made of paper-thin tree bark). Hawaiian kakau (tattoos) also use similar designs, repeating certain symbols and depicting the wearer’s social standing.

Hula dance dates back hundreds of years and tells stories through rhythmic foot movements and choreography against music performed with instruments including the Pahu drum, ukeke bow and ohe hano ihu (bamboo nose flute). Dancers usually wear lei adornments – garlands or wreaths made with flowers or other items. Hula movements convey various things, including pua (flower), pali (cliff), makani (wind), aloha (love), kai (ocean) and hale (house).

Wood carvings, meanwhile, are embedded in wider Polynesian culture; Tiki statues often represent Hawaiian gods and are used to ward off evil spirits.

Spiritual & Wider Significance

‘When people hear the word “craft”, they think it’s something done just during our free time, like a hobby,’ explains Kaaiohelo McAfee-Torco, cultural advisor at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai, ‘but these disciplines are a way of life. This is how our ancestors survived.’ This relates to creating pots and clothing, but also hula, which was a form of communication. ‘Hula is actually like our Hawaiian database; we didn’t have a written language. It’s a lot more than just entertainment.’

All Hawaiian-made items are created with a sense of purpose. ‘Almost almost everything has some kind of deeper and spiritual connection,’ says McAfee-Torco. When considering the growing of the material, a plant may have a physical representation of a Hawaiian god or goddess or embody the living. Taro, the main food staple in Hawaii, for example, is considered to be part of the ‘ohana (family). ‘It’s considered the oldest of the human race – if we care for our older sibling, then our older sibling [the plant] will take care of us,’ says McAfee-Torco.

In kapa making, it takes a year for the plant to actually grow. ‘We spend time with that plant, and know when is the correct time to pick the leaves and harvest. There’s a very deep relationship with the environment and the material we’re working with, to produce the best product possible.’ The materials used in this medium are as important to Hawaiians as the end product: ‘We ask permission from the forest to remove an item from a forest that we intend to use.’

BUY HAWAIIAN

Authentic crafts are harder to come by than cheap imitation imports. Shop carefully and expect to pay fairly for them. Markets are a good place to get lower-cost items directly made by the trader – inquire about their practices before you make a purchase. Reliable shops include:

Gallery of Great Things Historic and modern pieces in Waimea

Waipi‘o Valley Artworks Featuring 100 of the island’s artists and a huge collection of woodwork

Volcano Art Center A terrific collection of wood, art and jewelry

Kimura Lauhala Shop A large selection of woven goods in Hōlualoa

L Zeidman Gallery The place for hand-carved koa, tamarind and pine wood bowls in Kapaʻau

Genealogy of Hawaiian Crafts

Most authentic Hawaiian ‘crafts’ can be attributed to a maker. ‘There’s kind of like a genealogy of who you learn from,’ explains McAfee-Torco. ‘I know who my kapa teacher is, and I know who that person learned from and her teacher’s teacher and so on. It’s kind of how you can determine their credibility.’ Knowing how to do these cultural practices is both a burden and privilege, she explains, since there is a responsibility to pass on the craft to the next generation. ‘That knowledge cannot end with you.’ However, these are not things people can ask to become a master at, ‘but the knowledge will be shared if they’re ready and open to learn.’

HULA EVENTS ON BIG ISLAND

More than half a century old, Hilo’s Merrie Monarch Festival (merriemonarch.com) takes place around Easter, with competitive Hula dancing. Keauhou’s ‘Iolani Luahine Hula Festival (nawaiiwiola.org) is a more intimate event taking place in January with hula presentations and workshops. Atmospheric hula performances take place outdoors in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park on the rim of the scared crater Halema‘uma‘u (the resting place of goddess of fire Pele), run by the Volcano Arts Center. Laupāhoehoe Music Festival is an opportunity to listen to traditional music and watch hula dance overlooking the Hāmākua Coast in April.

The rest of the year, various commercial hotel luaus offer an easily digestible snapshot of hula dancing, varying in degree of authenticity. Among the most popular are performances at the Legends of Hawaiʻi Lūʻau at Hilton Waikōloa Village and the Voyagers of the Pacific Luau at the Royal Kona Resort. These include communal buffet meals with traditional Hawaiian dishes such as kālua pig, fresh island fish, lomi-lomi salmon and poi, plus music, entertainment and other Polynesian rituals. Hula events are often an opportunity to buy local Hawaiian artisanal products too.

TRIP PLANNER

SURFING BIG ISLAND

Riding waves has been part of Hawaiian culture for centuries, and was popularised in the US following Duke Kahanamoku’s visit to Huntington Beach in the early 1900s, where he demonstrated surfing to a crowd of spectators. Big Island’s surf scene mainly revolves around Kailua-Kona, which has spawned surfing powerhouses including Shane Dorian.

Honoliʻi Beach Park | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

Board Riding Geography

Big Island is not as well-known as O‘ahu for its surf scene, but many cite it as the birthplace of surfing, and the activity is hugely culturally significant here. Those who do ride waves will find many lesser-known, harder-to-access uncrowded spots on Big Island. Active volcanoes means that lava flows are constantly shaping the landscape, and on its journey to the ocean lava can create or destroy surf breaks. Coastlines on Big Island are typically volcanic and rugged with shallow reefs that damage fiberglass boards (most rental shops only rent out epoxy or foamie boards). Winter swells are not as large as those on the other islands, due to Big Island’s position southeast of Maui, meaning it’s a good option for intermediate surfers who don’t want to ride huge waves. Waves are best ridden in the morning, before the trade winds turn onshore.

The Kona Coast

This area gets offshore trade winds, meaning cleaner waves. Beginners and intermediates will enjoy surfing at Kahaluʻu Beach Park, where there’s a big family-friendly sandy beach and a rock wall that protects the bay from big surf. Beginner lessons take place here. Two miles north is local spot Banyans, a consistent intermediate spot over exposed reef. Further north are the pristine white sandy beaches of Kekaha Kai State Park, with an advanced wave to the north of Mahaiʻula Beach named Kawili Point. Meanwhile, Kawaihae Harbor offers sheltered beginner righthand waves, which work with west-northwest swells.

PREDICTING THE SURF

Surf cams It’s now easy to check the surf without even leaving the house by using surf cams. These are set up at popular spots to face the ocean and are live-streamed to your computer. Off-the-beaten-track or ‘secret’ spots don’t have surf cams, but auto-generated predictions for these (based on swell and wind patterns) can appear on surf report websites (including surfline.com), although these are not 100% accurate.

Current hazards, tides times and weather Check Hawai‘i Beach Safety (safebeachday.com/county/big-island) for current hazards at Big Island beaches, and Surf News Network (surfnewsnetwork.com) for tide times and incoming weather.

Local knowledge Local surf shops have the inside track when it comes to their local beaches; some do their own forecasts and post conditions on their websites.

Hilo

East Big Island’s Hilo area has a scattering of intermediate surf spots, including an exposed reef break at Richardson Ocean Park, which mainly gets groundswell, but works at all times of the year.

It breaks left and right, but can get crowded. The surf breaks over boulders and rocks on the ocean floor, with occasional strong currents. A stream meets the sea at Honoliʻi Beach, where a large pond forms a great natural swimming area when there is no surf. During swells, fast left and right peaks break into the stream.

Hāmākua Coast

Things get really wild on the dramatic black sandy Waipiʻo Bay, with the lush Kohala mountains rising thousands of feet from the beach, which only has local 4WD access due to the road being prone to rock fall and erosion. It offers a consistent sandy bottom break for experienced surfers, and incredible views from the lineup. East of the beach are Kaluahine Falls and Waiulili Falls. It’s considered a locals-only spot.

Stanley Wai/Getty Images ©

THE SPORT OF KINGS

Surfing was created by Native Hawaiians who named it heʻe nalu (ʻwave sliding’). While there are early depictions found in cave paintings dating to the 12th century, it’s unknown when Polynesians actually first started riding boards. It’s thought that wave riding began in outrigger canoes, before big heavy boards were carved from ’ulu, koa and wiliwili wood. Smaller waves were more commonly ridden in ancient times, before the light fiberglass boards of today.

Big Island has a sacred connection to surfing, as King Kamehameha (born on the island) is believed to have ridden his first wave at Kamoa Point (also known as Lyman’s surf break), south of Kona. The activity was reserved for aliʻi (chiefs), monarchs and royalty, and waves were ridden for cultural, religious and political reasons. Temples were built at surfing beaches so that chiefs and commoners could pray for waves. At Kamoa Point there is still a rocky grandstand of sorts where people would watch the king surf, plus a grandstand where lower-level aliʻi would watch the highest aliʻi surf. Beyond the grandstand, battered by several hundred years of tides, the Haleaaaama heiau (temple) was once dedicated to surfing. Ku‘emanu Heiau, south of Kahaluʻu Beach Park, is where people would also pray for surf.

Puna

Pohoiki was the island’s premier surf area until lava damage from the Kīlauea eruption ruined 20 breaks in 1991. Pohoiki Bay in Isaac Hale Beach Park still has three surfable breaks for experts only; waves can be big. Watch out for strong currents, plus sea urchins and pointy rocks.

South Big Island

Surf can often be blown out on the windswept south, but in the right conditions great waves can be found, including fun lefts at the black sand and pebbled Kāwā Bay and rocky South Point. Nearby is a famous (and potentially dangerous) cliff jumping location, located at the island’s southernmost point – prone to currents.

Off the Beaten Track

Surfers with a sense of adventure can go in search of empty, off-the-tourist-radar waves. These spots require hiking with your board through hot lava terrain or driving a super-high-clearance 4WD vehicle.

Expert spots include Makalawena on a beautiful white ultra-soft sandy beach, with consistent surf during northwest swells in the winter months. Pine Trees near Kona International Airport is a wave magnet at the white-sand Keāhole Point, and is another off-the-beaten-path spot to seek out via a hike or 4WD adventure. It’s an exposed reef break with groundswells from west-northwest and a popular barbecue spot – it can get crowded at weekends.

Surfing Etiquette

Share waves, and don’t drop in (if someone is already on the wave – don’t take off; priority is given to those closest to the peak). When paddling out, don’t paddle into the clean face of the wave – this prevents surfers from being able to maneuver on the wave and can cause accidents. Give respect to locals and don’t bring big groups of tourists to lesser-known spots. Make friends with the locals where possible, or better still go surfing with a local. As a newcomer to a lineup, don’t expect to get every wave – tourists are at the bottom of a food chain.

BIG ISLAND SURF OPERATORS

Kona Boys In the biz for 25 years, with knowledgeable, friendly staff at Kamakahonu Bay, in Kona.

Hilo Ocean Adventures Friendly family-run store with a cheap selection of foamies.

Kona Surf Company Stocking a range of epoxy mini longboards, plus shortboards and foamy surfboards, at Kahalu’u Beach Park.

Miller’s Surf Has rented out boards for 20-plus years; carries soft tops and performance boards in Kona.

Boss Frog’s Some of the cheapest foamie and epoxy surfboard rentals in Kona.

Bayfront Boards On Hilo Bayfront, with surfboard rental plus used boards for purchase.

Orchid Land Surfboards Selection of surfboards and rental boards on the Bayfront in downtown Hilo.

BODYBOARDING

The first ‘bodyboard’ was ridden at Kona’s Honl’s Beach, around 2 miles from Kamoa Point where King Kamehmeha learned to surf. Desperate to ride the waves near his house, but not owning a surfboard, California transplant Tom Morey fashioned a small board out of scrap foam and newspaper in 1971 and called it a ‘boogie board.’ In 1977, he produced almost 100,000 boards, and Honl’s Beach is still the boogie boarding capital of Kona. Visitors can rent a boogie board/bodyboard at most surf shops. Hāpuna Beach, Big Island’s largest sandy beach, is a great place to start. Old Airport Beach, Magic Sands and Hookena are also fine bodyboarding spots.

THE FOOD SCENE

Lush hillsides where anything will grow and an ocean full of fresh seafood ensure a natural bounty for chefs on Big Island.

Lau lau | ChristopherMYa/Shutterstock ©

Food is a huge part of life on Big Island. It is over food that the ‘ohana (family) gathers, at a beach barbecue that friends meet up, and at the markets that communities come together. The Hawaiian custom of caring for the land and an emphasis on sustainability means it’s easy to find organic food, from the farm-to-plate veggies to the fruit hanging on trees on the roadside. Combine this with a multicultural population – Hawaiians brought chicken and pigs, plus taro and coconut, while the Japanese immigrants of the 19th and 20th centuries added rice, soy sauce and chilies to the local diet and Portuguese ranchers sweetened things up with sugared bread and fried malasada – and Big Island makes for a unique culinary experience. Eating establishments are typically casual, ranging from hole-in-the-wall outlets and diners to laid-back cafes and restaurants. Meals are done early in Big Island: 6am for breakfast and 6pm for dinner. Restaurants are often closed by 9pm.

Food Markets & Fruit Stands

These are places to try in-season food and dive in to Big Island community life. Local farmers markets are typically a weekly event, even in small towns, and offer a chance to meet growers, find out about local practices and sample everything from cheese and chocolate to local veggies. They often have food trucks and live performers to entertain folks tucking into their food.

Fruit stalls and shacks, meanwhile, can be found all over the island, literally on the side of the road. Some are more permanent than others (and take card payments), but all are terrific places to pick up exotic, often completely organic, seasonal produce at a great price.

Japanese Food

The first Japanese immigrants arrived in Hawaii at the end of the 19th century, after the Native Hawaiian population was decimated by Western diseases. Workers were required on the sugar plantations, which were crucial for Hawaii’s economy. Immigrants brought classic Japanese recipes and cooking techniques, which have evolved in Hawaii over decades to create dishes like poke. Hawaii’s abundance of fresh fish means sushi in Hawaii can be phenomenal, while ramen and other staple dishes are arguably better in Hawaii than anywhere outside Japan. Big Island’s Hilo and Kona areas have an abundance of excellent Japanese restaurants.

Shave Ice

Hawaii’s most famous desert came about thanks to Japanese plantation workers, who used their machetes to cut blocks of ice in the field and covered the shavings with fruit juice and sugar to help them cool down in the hot sun. Over the decades, shave ice creations have evolved to include fillings such as ice cream and toppings such as a classic condensed milk ‘snow cap’ or syrup, which may be fruit-based or an ultra-processed sweet variety like a cola or bubble-gum flavor. Cups of shave ice can be bought all over Big Island, but the craft bowls at Kula Shave Ice stand out, with organically grown and locally sourced fruit, organic cane sugar and filtered water for the ice.

Poi | Eric Broder Van Dyke/Shutterstock ©

TRY LOCO MOCO

With a less than appetizing name, translating to ‘crazy snot’ in Spanish, the hearty loco moco dish (consisting of a hamburger patty on rice, with a fried egg and slathered with gravy) is anything but. Born in Big Island’s biggest town, Hilo, it can now be found all over Hawaii.

Legend has it that the dish was created in 1949 when a teen baseball team member named George Okimoto (who was studying Spanish at Hilo High School) requested a new dish from the no-longer-open Lincoln Grill diner. The owners offered him a big bowl of rice with a hamburger steak smothered with brown gravy, and he named it loco, the Spanish for ‘crazy’ and moco, because it rhymed. It went down so well that it became a staple in Hawaii. In the decades following an egg was added, and it’s also possible to find it served with oysters, bacon, ham, Spam, tofu, kālua pig, Portuguese sausage, teriyaki beef and teriyaki chicken.

STOCKPHOTO FOR YOU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Best Hawaiian Dishes

POKE

Raw fish cubes, commonly salmon or tuna, in a bowl of rice with sides such as kimchi.

CHOCOLATE HAUPIA CREAM PIE

Thickened coconut milk and chocolate in a pie crust.

SAIMIN

Noodle soup dish served with kamaboko or Spam and diced green onions.

HAWAIIAN PLATE

Affordable dish with chicken, beef or pork, rice and a side of mac and cheese.

LAU LAU

Large taro plant leaves wrapped around pork or fish and slow-baked in an underground oven.

LOMI-LOMI SALMON

Salted raw salmon served with onions, tomatoes and hot peppers.

KĀLUA PUA‘A

Slow-roasted pork that falls off the bone, traditionally made in an underground oven.

POI

Taro root paste with a flavor similar to sweet potato; low in fat, high in vitamins.

Where To Find

Poke & Sushi

Suisan Fish Market Takeout poke bowls in Hilo Bay served with uber-fresh fish brought in that morning.

Poke N Sides Outstanding poke bowls with delicious dressings in a laid-back outdoor setting at Hilo Farmers Market.

Umekes Fish Market Bar & Grill Restaurant Takeout poke counter in Kona with dozens of fish varieties and superb poke wonton nachos.

Hilo Bay Cafe Delicious rolls prepared with super-fresh ingredients in an open kitchen in a Kona cafe setting.

Da Poke Shack Reliable Kona counter-serve joint for top express poke at a fair price.

Hard Drinks

Hilo Brewing Company Local faves include Volcano Red and Mauna Kea Pale poured in a Hilo taproom.

Kona Brewing Company Probably Hawaii’s most famous beer, serving ‘liquid aloha’ and refreshing lagers.

Volcano Winery Grapes grown on Mauna Loa’s slope and creative fruit fusions.

Ola Brew Creative crafts with local flavors like liliko‘i lime milkshake IPA, plus hard juice and cider.

Sweet Treats

Big Island Candies Enormous showroom in Hilo, with a huge gift shop selling their standout chocolate.

Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Visitor Center Chocolate-covered nuts galore at this factory and visitor center.

Honoka‘a Chocolates Home-grown Hawaiian chocolate, with free tastings at the Mamane St store – try the smooth coconut dark milk and rum-infused chocolate bar.

Two Ladies Kitchen Handmade rainbow-colored mochi with island-inspired flavors. Expect a queue out the door.

Puna Chocolate Company & Cafe Serves up chocolate made from 100% Hawaii-grown cacao, which comes in liquid hot chocolate or as bars and candy varieties.

Sugar Coast Candy Old-fashioned Hilo sweets shop with barrels of taffy and jars of nostalgic sweets.

MEALS OF A LIFETIME

Manta Upscale open-air sunset dining in Kauna‘oa Bay with farm-to-table dishes, infused with Big Island culture.

Hilo Bay Cafe Exceptional ahi poke bowls and sashimi in a sleek contemporary Japanese space with Hilo Bay views.

The Fish & the Hog For salivatingly good southern barbecue plates, with perfectly smoked meat and Hawaiian-style grinds.

Lava Lava Beach Club Gorgeous laid-back palm-fronted ocean setting and mind-blowing seafood mains bursting with flavor and color.

Takenoko Sushi Exceptional sushi served in an intimate eight-seat Hilo bar; book months in advance.

Harmoni Foods Top Korean lunch spot serving bibimbap and tacos made with local ingredients.

THE YEAR IN FOOD

SPRING

Lychees are best from May to September, when their floral aroma and crisp sweetness peak. Water-rich melons and strawberries are also best during the same months.

Alvis Upitis/Getty Images ©

SUMMER

Sweet and delicious apple bananas are available all year-round but are best from June to October, as are cucumbers, which can taste slightly bitter in the winter months.

Kenneth Wiedemann/Getty Images ©

FALL

Kabocha squash (Japanese pumpkin) is halfway between a squash and a pumpkin with sweet, earthy flesh – it is best bought between June and March for maximum flavor.

Nancybelle Gonzaga Villarroya/Getty Images ©

WINTER

Avocados are generally a winter fruit. Look out for Big Island’s giant ones – they can grow as large as footballs in winter. Rambutans (spiky orb-shaped sweet fruit) are best from October through March.

MNStudio/Getty Images ©

THE OUTDOORS

Life on Big Island is an outdoor person’s dreamscape, with year-round warm weather, clear blue waters, tropical rainforests and volcanic hikes.

Pololū Valley | CAVAN IMAGES/KYLE LEDEBOER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Big Island’s vast and varied terrain is a place to indulge in adventurous pursuits. The youngest island in the archipelago, Big Island is alive and growing, thanks to eruptions spilling lava into the ocean, literally forming new land and creating endlessly shapeshifting typography. Hawaii’s largest island has snorkeling, tumbling waterfalls, active volcanoes to peer into, high-altitude hiking on Hawaii’s tallest peak, road trips through moon-like settings, and dense tropical landscapes to get lost in.

Walking & Hiking

Big Island is a hiking utopia, offering something utterly different from other hiking destinations – wide-ranging ecosystems, from starkly beautiful volcanic terrain to lush tropical rainforests. Family-friendly nature hikes come in various forms: the Kaulana Manu Nature Trail offers high-altitude flowers in bloom and views of soaring volcanos, while the magnificent Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden is a living museum with eye-poppingly colorful flowers and 2500 plant species. Walkers of all abilities can discover pounding waterfalls in the east of the island, while experts can attempt a calf-pounding climb along the Mauna Kea Summit Trail, ascending 4500ft to the summit (13,803ft). Big Island’s north is all about the staggeringly verdant valleys of Waipi‘o and Pololū, with their lush pleated hillsides. In the southeast, kids will giggle with excitement wandering the long dark underground lava tubes dotted around the island, including in Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

FAMILY ADVENTURES

Join a zipline tour and white-knuckle it over the 250ft Kolekole Waterfall.

Snorkel with Fair Wind at the dreamy, colorful Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park.

Hike the short but steep Pololū Valley Trail for soaring lush views and an empty beach.

Chase waterfalls along the Hāmākua Coast, with Rainbow Falls, Wai‘ale Falls and the mighty ʻAkaka Falls.

Pick up a paddleboard at Hilo Ocean Adventures then head to the calm waters of Reeds Bay Beach Park.

Horseback ride Hawaiian paniolo style through farmlands with Pacific Ocean views with Wailea Horseback Adventures.

Explore sea caves and spot dolphins by kayak with Aloha Kayak Co.

Snorkeling & Diving

Big Island has phenomenal snorkeling and diving opportunities. Marine life thrives on the vivid coral sculptures and volcanic reefs in the island’s crystal-clear waters, which range in visibility from 80ft to 100ft. Divers can have a unique underwater experience exploring sunken lava tubes or night snorkeling or diving with graceful giant manta rays, which flock to the plankton-rich waters off the west coast. Take a boat or kayak to Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park for an underwater paradise with a natural aquarium of tropical fish, plus honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) and frequent sightings of spinner dolphin pods. On the east coast, a string of beach parks have several natural break walls (created by lava), forming still, child-friendly snorkeling pools abundant with marine life.

BEST SPOTS

For the best outdoor spots and routes, see the map on here.

Kealakekua Bay | James R D Scott/Getty Images ©

Stargazing

Once the sun goes down, the stars come out, and so do the telescopes on Hawaii’s highest mountain, Mauna Kea. Big Island is considered one of the best astrological sites on planet Earth, particularly the high-altitude slopes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, which have low moisture and almost zero light pollution. Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station is a superb spot for amateur stargazing, with or without fancy kit. After dark, clusters of stargazers crane their necks to gaze at twinkling galaxies, shooting stars (it’s possible to see more than a dozen an hour here) and planets lighting up the sky. Want the skies all to yourself? Stay overnight at the lofty and rustic Mauna Loa Cabin just off the Mauna Loa Observatory Trail, a challenging backcountry hike across one of the largest active volcanoes in the world.

Nail-Biting Thrills

ATV DRIVING

Rev around Big Island’s rugged terrain by ATV with the Umauma Experience on the east coast.

SURFING

Ride waves at the beautiful palm tree-fronted (experienced-only) surf spot and Honoliʻi Beach Park.

HIGH-ALTITUDE HIKING

Ascend the island’s tallest mountain by foot on the experts-only Mauna Kea Summit Trail.

HELICOPTER RIDES

Fly above waterfalls, valleys and coastline, plus peer into an active volcano, with Paradise Helicopters.

SHARK DIVING

Embark on a heart-pounding encounter with tiger sharks at Crescent Beach with Kona Honu Divers.

CAVING

Descend into the dark underworld of the Kazumura Cave in Puna on a caving tour with Kazumura Cave Tours.

CLIFF JUMPING

Dare to jump 40ft into the ocean off a boat hoist at South Point, the southernmost spot in the US.

ACTION AREAS

Where to find Hawai‘i the Big Island’s best outdoor activities.

HAWAI‘I THE BIG ISLAND

THE GUIDE

Chapters in this section are organized by hubs and their surrounding areas. We see the hub as your base in the destination, where you’ll find unique experiences, local insights, insider tips and expert recommendations. It’s also your gateway to the surrounding area, where you’ll see what and how much you can do from there.

Kohala Forest Reserve | Stefan Irvine/LightRocket via Getty Images

Kailua-Kona & the Kona Coast

BEACHES, COFFEE, HISTORY AND CULTURE

This charming and storied coastline’s postcard-perfect beaches, scenic drives and solid cups of Kona coffee will electrify your spirit.

coffee beans | PRAWEENA STYLE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Whether it’s a stroll beside the unthinkably blue-green sea, a winding drive through tropical farms and forests or a magical nighttime encounter with gliding manta rays, the Big Island’s western shoreline can sometimes feel more like a simulation than real life. It’s just that gobsmackingly pretty. Despite rising costs of lodgings and food, visitors return again and again, frequenting the urban heart Kailua-Kona and fanning out along the coastline. To the north, there are lava deserts, hidden coves, Hawaiian ruins and resort communities to behold. To the south, there are undulating coffee farms, vibrant cultural outposts, teeming coral reefs and historical landmarks. Throw in the year-round sunny weather, and it’s no surprise that overtourism has reached pre-pandemic levels.

Wide-ranging efforts to curb overtourism and protect the culture, sacred sites and environment are underway. Tight regulations now limit the number of tour companies and guests visiting Kahaluʻu and Kealakekua Bays, both top surf and snorkel spots, while swimming with Hawaiian spinner dolphins (once a popular Kona activity) was outlawed in 2021. In 2022 the Big Island prohibited the sale of non-mineral sunscreen, which harms coral reefs, and in Kailua-Kona officials are poised to introduce hydrogen-powered public buses. Down south, coffee farmers have rallied to protect their way of life, suing big-name retailers such as ABC Stores and Walmart for selling coffee mislabeled as Kona. As of 2023, they’d collected more than $30 million and that feels right – this region and its coffee are simply inimitable.

Wawaloli Beach | Sharon Ball/Shutterstock ©

THE MAIN AREAS

KAILUA-KONA

Kona’s ʻurban’ core.

HŌLUALOA

Art and coffee.

CAPTAIN COOK

Haven of history.

Find Your Way

Kona stretches along over 40 miles of rugged coastline – with upland forests and produce farms overlooking the ocean – on the island’s western shore. Attractions spotlighting the region’s history, culture and natural places are just a short drive away.

Plan Your Time

Wherever you go, bring a snorkel. But try to balance beach time with Kona coffee, scenic drives, forest hikes and visiting history parks.

Performers at King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

Pressed for Time

Base near Kailua-Kona and head to one of the area’s fabulous beaches, such as Magic Sands Beach or Puʻuhonua o Honaunau, which doubles as a history park. Stroll the downtown in the afternoon, grab a seafood dinner and consider a nighttime dive. The next day, take a surf lesson at Kahaluʻu Bay, or see the south coast on a snorkel tour to Kealakekua Bay.

A Weeklong Stay

Plan for a couple days of snorkeling and diving and perhaps riding in a traditional sailing canoe. Then dry off and tour a Kona coffee plantation, saunter through artsy Hōlualoa or take a hike through the Kona Cloud Forest Sanctuary. Don’t miss the scenic drive around Captain Cook, and do hit up even more beaches down south.

Seasonal highlights

SPRING

From March to May expect low-season prices and perfectly sunny weather. In March enjoy a cold beer on the beach at the Kona Brewers Festival.

SUMMER

In June the two-day Hawaiian Cultural Festival at Puʻuhonua o Honaunau showcases and celebrates Native Hawaiian culture.

FALL

Prices drop in the late-fall shoulder season. In October there’s the Ironman, in November, the Hōlualoa Village Coffee & Art Stroll.

WINTER

Aside from the holidays, accommodations rates are reasonable. Surf’s up, weather’s lovely and it’s peak season for humpback whale-watching.

KAILUA-KONA

WATER SPORTS GALORE | BEAUTIFUL BEACHES | TOURIST HUB

The waterfront hub of the Kona Coast gets called a half-dozen different names: Kailua-Kona, Kailua, Kailua Village, Kona Town, Downtown or even just Town. The truth is, this one-mile stretch along Aliʻi Dr is less a town and more an economic center and tourist hub, with restaurants, shops and curiosities designed to serve the throngs of cruise ship passengers and other travelers it welcomes on the regular.

It’s also a super-convenient base from which to enjoy the Keauhou Bay resort area, a hub of boat tours and manta ray night experiences, along with plenty of beaches, water sports and ancient Hawaiian sites. Most Big Island visitors will inevitably putter around here for at least an hour or two, walking along the water, spooning a shaved ice treat and basking in sun-drenched tropical nonchalance. However, savvy travelers and history buffs can and should penetrate Kailua-Kona’s tacky veneer, for amid the tourist kitsch are a handful of historic buildings and cultural landmarks that help tell the story of Hawaiʻi.

Lyman’s surf spot | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

SIGHTS

1   Ahuʻena Heiau

2   Huliheʻe Palace

3   Kailua Pier

4   Kamakahonu Beach

5   Mokuʻaikaua Church

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

6   Atlantis Submarines

7   Big Island Divers

8   Body Glove Hawaii

9   Jack’s Diving Locker

10   Kai ʻOpua Canoe Club

11   Kona Boys Beach Shack

12   Kona Honu Divers

13   Snorkel Bob’s

SLEEPING

14   King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel

15   Pacific 19

16   Royal Kona Resort

EATING

17   808 Grindz Cafe

18   Broke Da Mouth Grindz

19   Poi Dog Deli

20   Scandinavian Shave Ice

21   Umekes Fish Market Bar & Grill

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

Don’s Mai Tai Bar (see 16)

22   Huggo’s on the Rocks

23   Kanaka Kava

24   Kona Brewing Company

25   Kope Lani

ENTERTAINMENT

26   Ironman World Championship

GETTING AROUND

It’s easiest to get around with your own set of wheels. You could get set up with the folks at Kona Scooters or Big Island Mopeds. Otherwise check out HIBIKE, the local bike-share program. The Hele-On Bus service is an option, but may not leave at times that are convenient. The Kona Trolley is aimed at visitors and runs along Aliʻi Dr from Kona Commons to Keauhou Shopping Center, making a dozen stops along the way. It operates 7am and 9pm daily.

TOP TIP

There’s a great concentration of high-quality food in this relatively small town. You will usually have to venture further afield than Aliʻi Dr, where many of the waterfront restaurants are disappointing and overpriced.

Blissful Beaches

Sun, sand and swimming near downtown

Most of Kailua-Kona’s shoreline is rocky and somewhat rough, but there are a couple of notable exceptions, and a short drive north or south you’ll find additional options.

Tucked between Kailua Pier and Ahuʻena Heiau, Kamakahonu Beach is the town’s premier swimming area, where ocean waters are calm and usually safe for kids. Concession stands rent all kinds of beach gear, and this is a perfect spot for learning stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), since it has both gear vendors and calm water. This is also a good spot to teach kids snorkeling basics.

For more of a local experience, head a mile north of Kailua-Kona to Old Kona Airport State Recreation Area, a grand spot for picnicking, jogging and fishing. The beach area is studded with lava rock, which means the swimming isn’t great, but the tide pools teem with life, including the occasional napping sea turtle.

Another family-friendly spot a bit further north is Wawaloli Beach. At the makai (seaward) end of the access road to the Natural Energy Laboratory of Hawaii Authority, this quiet locals’ beach is perfectly positioned for sunsets – never mind the jets flying overhead. At high tide, the protected tide pools along the lava-rock coastline overflow; at other times, the same pools (especially the more southerly one) are a perfect spot for teaching kids to swim. Facilities include restrooms and outdoor showers.

About five minutes south of Kona you’ll find Magic Sands Beach (also called White Sands and, officially, Laʻaloa Beach), a small beach with turquoise water, great sunsets, little shade and fabulous bodysurfing and bodyboarding. The waves here are usually powerful – often in a fun way, but sometimes enough to smash you to pieces. Oh, and Magic Sands is almost always packed. Another three minutes’ drive south lies Kona’s most popular shoreline, Kahaluʻu Beach Park, a very good bet when conditions are calm. Protected by an ancient breakwater, the bay is usually tranquil and shallow, through you might encounter rocks. The lifeguard-staffed park has outdoor showers, restrooms, drinking water, snorkel rentals and picnic tables.

Wawaloli Beach | copyright Jeff Miller/getty images ©

KAILUA-KONA THROUGH TIME

Despite the tourist-trap vibe, Kailua-Kona holds a significant place in Hawaiian history. Kamehameha the Great lived his last years here, worshipping at Ahuʻena Heiau, his own temple. Soon after his death in 1819, his son Liholiho broke an important kapu (taboo) by dining with women. The old ways suffered another blow when the first missionaries sailed into Kailua Bay in 1820 and converted the Hawaiians to Christianity. In the 19th century, the town was a leisure retreat for Hawaiian royalty. Huliheʻe Palace was a favorite getaway for King David Kalakaua, a talented patron of the arts, including hula, music and literature. Since the 1970s Kailua-Kona has been the Big Island’s economic powerhouse, fueled by tourism, retail and real estate.

STAYING IN KAILUA-KONA

Pacific 19: This centrally located boutique hotel with ocean views and a relaxing pool doubles as an adventure base camp. $$$

My Hawaii Hostel: Two miles from downtown, this simple, clean budget option offers dorms, private rooms and a friendly vibe. $

Royal Kona Resort: Spread over three ship-shaped towers, this breezy, 1970s Polynesian fantasy has a saltwater lagoon. $$$

Kona Tiki Hotel: A retro three-story hotel south of downtown Kona, with motel-style rooms, oceanfront views and a sleek pool. $$

Outrigger Kona Resort & Spa: A hip, family-friendly resort in the Keahou Resort Area with a massive pool, complete with a 200ft waterslide. $$$

Casa de Emdeko: South of town, this stylish condo complex features Spanish-tile roofs, immaculate gardens and two pools. $$$

Get in the Water

Snorkeling along the Kona Coast

The Kona Coast is known for calm, clear waters, unique lava formations and coral reefs teeming with fish and other marine life. The simplest way to experience it is to pick up some snorkel gear and head directly for the water. Sometimes lodgings supply gear, but if not, there’s Snorkel Bob’s. The enthusiastic, friendly staff will rent you snorkel masks (including corrective lenses for near-sighted folks), fins, wetsuits and flotation aids. They’re lenient about returning gear after hours, and prices are reasonable for the quality.

For easy-access snorkeling, Kahaluʻu Beach Park, 5 miles south of Kailua-Kona, is the closest and most popular option (arrive early to maximize your chances at a parking spot). The shallow, protected cove teems with marine life, and snorkelers regularly spot butterfly fish, parrot fish, surgeon fish and trigger fish, among others, and the occasional sea turtle shows up to feed on algae. Do your part to protect the coral by wearing reef-safe sunscreen, and try not to touch anything. Beach facilities here include restrooms, showers, picnic tables and a lifeguard station.

Alternatively, head north to Honokōhau Harbor and drive to the very end, where you can park atop hardened lava on the left side. You’ll need to walk carefully over lava rocks down to Alula Beach, a small, sandy cove where there are no facilities, trash cans or lifeguards (locals call this Dog Beach). Fish are abundant over a sloping reef here, and turtles, rays and sharks are sometimes spotted. Stay out of the nearby channel, as there’s frequent boat traffic, and don’t be surprised to see shore divers around.

To snorkel further afield, take a cruise from Honokōhau Harbor or Keauhou Pier. Opt to depart in the morning, when conditions are calmer and clearer. Tour prices range from around $100 to $150 depending on the number of stops, and typically include snorkel gear, beverages and snacks; book ahead online for discounts. Tours aboard zodiac rafts are zippy and thrilling, and often explore sea caves, lava tubes and blowholes. Expect a bumpy ride, though, and no toilets. Catamarans are much larger, smoother and comfier but can’t get as far into coves. Many dive boats also let snorkelers ride along at a decent price.

DON’T SWIM WITH DOLPHINS

It’s not a good idea to seek out dolphins – known locally as nai‘a – in the wild. In fact, as of 2021, it’s actually illegal to swim within 50ft of them. Dolphins, including the local spinner dolphin (the most commonly encountered species on the Big Island) are social creatures with complex behavioral patterns and schedules. Part of that schedule is rest, which generally takes place from 10am to 2pm in shallow sandy-bottom coves and protected bays. Swimming with dolphins during this time disrupts their crucial rest phase. Young spinner dolphins are curious creatures, and they will often swim to interact with nearby humans. Their investigation in turn awakens their parents, thus robbing entire pods of much-needed rest. Read more about the protection of Hawai‘i’s dolphins on p253.

Underwater Adventures

Dive the top sites

For scuba divers, a more in-depth experience is available. Near shore, divers can see steep drop-offs with lava tubes, caves and diverse marine life. Top sites include Four Mile, a rocky bay filled with reef fish, eels, sea stars and the occasional shark, and Alula Beach, where divers often encounter resident tiger sharks such as Laverne, a 14-footer with a chunk missing from her dorsal fin.

In deeper waters there are dozens of popular dive sites: Garden Eel Cove has a healthy reef, a manta ray cleaning station and quite a few garden eels, while Turtle Pinnacle features (you guessed it) abundant turtles. Suck ‘Em Up offers a long lave tube where white-tip reef sharks hang out, and right beside it, divers can swim into a collapsed lava structure appropriately named Skull Cave to spot crustaceans and more white-tips. At Golden Arches, divers swim through a lava rock arch with white sand beneath it, and a nearby drop-off sometimes features mantas and sharks.

Advanced-only sites include Pipe Dreams, an abandoned OTEC pipe now teeming with coral and other marine life (including frog fish!), and Kaiwi Point, where turtles, large fish and eagle rays congregate near hulking mounds of coral.

Most dive boats launch from Honokōhau Harbor, and the cost of a standard two-tank dive (including all gear) is around $180 or more. Multiday PADI Open Water certification programs cost $600 or more. Recommended operators include Aquatic Life Divers, Big Island Divers, Kona Honu Divers and Jack’s Diving Locker.

SNORKELING DOWN SOUTH

If you’re on a boat tour, chances are you’re making a stop at the famous Kealakekua Bay and its protected Ka‘awaloa Cove. This is a premier snorkeling spot, a sacred site for Native Hawaiians and where Captain Cook first set foot on the archipelago.

THE BIRTHPLACE OF BLACKWATER

If you really want a nighttime underwater adventure, try a blackwater dive. Sound ominous? It kind of is, but it’s also surreal and beautiful, and the concept originated right here in Kona in the 1980s. Divers are boated offshore, where they plunge into the open ocean in thousands of feet of water. Attracted to the dive lights, tiny and gelatinous animals then rise from the deep to the surface, creating a glow-in-the-dark rave of alien underwater life. For the intrepid only, this is one of the most fascinating experiences in Hawaii. Note that most shops require night divers to have a certain number of logged dives under their belts.

EATING IN KAILUA-KONA: CASUAL SPOTS

Broke Da Mouth Grindz: Heaping portions of delicious garlic furikake chicken, huge burgers and fried fish platters that can feed a family. $$

808 Grindz Cafe: Killer loco moco, chill waitstaff and reasonable prices make this hole-in-the-wall the top pick for locals. $

Poi Dog Deli: A veritable sandwich heaven, this shop is decked out in funky island art and the owners are all about social justice. $$

Stay Dry Under Water

Go submarining

For visitors who would love to experience the undersea environs but prefer to stay dry, there’s Atlantis Submarines. This real-deal sub descends up to 100ft into a coral-reef crevice and explores nearby shipwrecks. The battery-powered sub has 26 portholes, carries 48 passengers and explores down below for around 45 minutes. Children must be 36in tall to ride. The cost is $148/66 per adult/child, but you can often get discounted rates online.

Alula Beach | Faina Gurevich/Shutterstock ©

BEST PLACES FOR SEAFOOD

Da Poke Shack

A bustling, beloved spot with some of the freshest and most delicious poke on the Big Island. The line is always long, so plan accordingly. $$

Umekes Fish Market Bar & Grill

Come here for several variations on delicious poke pupus, and chase them with fresh fish tacos, or a grilled catch of the day, fresh off the boat. $$

Kenichi Pacific

Ignore the mall setting and savor the Pacific Rim fusion cuisine, including tender miso black cod and Hawaiian ono (white-fleshed wahoo). Great sushi specials too. $$$

ULU Ocean Grill + Sushi Lounge

A seafood smorgasbord for special occasions; go for the poke, the Hualālai oysters (grown on-site) and the flaky misoyaki black cod. $$$

EATING & DRINKING IN KAILUA-KONA: LOCAL TREATS

Kanaka Kava: A grass-shack hangout serving Hawaiian-style kava (mildly sedative juice) and organic noni juice. $

Kope Lani: Ocean views, ice-blended espresso drinks and two dozen flavors of Big Island–made ice cream. $

Scandinavian Shave Ice: Shave ice is piled up in huge, psychedelic-colored mounds. Get mini mochi on top. $

Hop on a Board

Surfing, SUP-ing and bodysurfing

The Big Island is the youngest of all the Hawaiian islands, which means it has fewer beaches and surf spots than its neighbors. But there are some good options, regardless of your experience level. Local experts surf at Banyans, north of Magic Sands, which is known for its northeast winds, shallow reef and urchins – but also excellent hollow waves. Another good ride is Pine Trees, an exposed reef break south of the airport near Wawaloli Beach. Newbies can surf at Lyman’s (also known as Kamoa Point), south of Banyans, and surf lessons are usually held on the consistent and beginner-friendly waves of Kahaluʻu Beach Park.

Our favorite surf school is Hawaii Lifeguard Surf Instructors. Skilled, personable instructors here have a minimum of 15 years’ surfing experience and are all certified lifeguards. The private group lessons start at $140 per person for a group of three or more, while a two-person lesson costs $300 and a one-on-one lesson costs $200. Other recommended schools include Kona Mike’s Surf Adventures in Kona town and FBI Surf School, a friendly outfit run by beloved local surf dude Ossian. If you just need to rent a board, Kahaluʻu Bay Surf & Sea is your spot: surfboards start at $20 for two hours, SUP boards are $35 for two hours, and the shop also does group lessons starting at $100 per person.

For those who have never tried SUP, the Kona Boys Beach Shack organizes lessons as well as more ambitious coastal paddling tours, and rents SUP sets and surfboards right on Kamakahonu Beach – which, sheltered as it is, is perfect for learning SUP basics. If bodyboarding is your jam, drive five minutes south to Honl’s Beach. It was here, in 1971, that Tom Morey tested the Boogie Board (the brand-name version of the most popular type of bodyboard). The sandy beach here is small, and sharp rocks make the water unfriendly to casual swimmers, but, as you may guess, the area is quite popular with local bodyboarders.

Kahaluʻu Beach Park | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

IRONMANIA

When thousands of athletes and fans swoop into Kailua-Kona for each October, locals gripe about traffic and crowds. But nobody can deny the thrilling spectacle of the Ironman World Championship. The granddaddy of triathlons is a brutal combination of a 2.4-mile ocean swim, 112-mile bike race and 26.2-mile run. This ultimate endurance test starts and finishes at the Kailua Pier, and it has to be done in under 17 hours. In the weeks leading up the race, Kailua-Kona becomes an outdoor fitness bazaar, and recently, to keep the event at a manageable size, organizers have separated the men’s and women’s competitions. The women raced in Kona in 2023, the men in 2024, and the women will be back in 2025.

DRINKING IN KAILUA-KONA

Don’s Mai Tai Bar: For pure kitsch, nothing beats the lounge-lizard fantasy of Don’s, located inside the Royal Kona Resort.

Ola Brew: Brews made with local ingredients, a community-focused business model and a fun local after-work crowd.

Huggo’s on the Rocks: Sip tropical cocktails under a thatch roof with live music, sunset and the occasional spray of surf in your hair.

Kona Brewing Company: Since 1994, eco-conscious Kona Brewing Company has anchored Hawaiʻi’s microbrewery scene.

My Bar: While My Bar is one of the few dedicated gay bars on the island, it’s also just a fun bar – it occupies a sweet spot between locals’ dive and crazy club.

Row, Row, Row Your Boat

Outrigger outings

Sure, you could easily rent a kayak. But when in Hawaii, why not try out the traditional watercraft of the ancient Polynesians: the double-hulled outrigger canoe. After all, this is how the island’s first inhabitants arrived here, and immersing in the local culture is both a soul-satisfying and sustainable way to explore the Big Island’s marine environs.

Visitors to Kai ʻOpua Canoe Club can join recreational canoe paddling excursions that leave every morning except Sunday, usually around 6am or 7am. Check kaiopua.org for schedules and contact details. Alternatively, you can learn the basics from Kona Boys at Kamakahonu Beach or paddle out with Anelakai Adventures in Keauhou Bay.

To see how outrigger-canoeing pros do it, check out the January-to-May race schedule of the Hawaii Island Paddlesports Association (hipa.clubexpress.com). And don’t miss the Queen Liliʻuokalani Canoe Race from Kailua Bay to Honaunau over the Labor Day weekend in late August and/or early September.

LEARN MORE ABOUT LYMAN’S

For more information about the rich history of surfing and bodyboarding on the Big Island, such as King Kamehameha’s famous wave-riding at Lyman’s, see here.

BEST BOAT TRIP OPERATORS

Sea Quest

Well-run company with rigid-hull inflatable rafts that take passengers on one-, two- and three-stop snorkel adventures that cover much of the South Kona Coast.

Body Glove Hawaii

Popular three-hour cruises along the Kona Coast, featuring a so-so buffet, live music and engaging historical narration.

Fair Wind

The Fair Wind II, a two-story catamaran with two 15ft-long waterslides, sails to Kealakekua Bay from Keauhou Bay every morning.

Sea Paradise

Highly recommended outfitter offering morning and afternoon snorkel cruises on a 46ft-long catamaran with a friendly, professional crew.

WALKING TOUR

A History Walk in Kailua Town

Before you order a mai tai, take a short urban hike through Kailua-Kona’s downtown village, where Big Island history and culture practically ooze from the sidewalks. You’ll stroll past twisty old banyan trees, momentous landmarks, captivating artwork and a mesmerizing replica of Kamehameha the Great’s personal temple. Between stops, enjoy a cool beverage or shaved ice, plus some lovely coastal scenery.

Mokuʻaikaua Church | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

1 Ahuʻena Heiau

When Kamehameha the Great wasn’t busy uniting the Hawaiian Islands, he was restoring this sacred temple as a retreat. The king died here on May 8, 1819, but, in keeping with tradition, his bones were secreted elsewhere. Today’s temple is a smaller replica of the original, built in the 1970s.

The Walk: Stroll around Kamakahonu Beach, the area’s only swimmable cove with concession stands and beach umbrellas for hire.

2 Kailua Pier

At the bay’s east end, this platform was once a cattle-shipping area, where animals were forced to swim to steamers waiting to transport them to Honolulu slaughterhouses. These days canoe clubs launch their vessels here; the Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament also kicks off here, continuing a sportfishing tradition begun in 1915, when the pier was built.

The Walk: Double back past Kamakahonu Beach and make your way into the historic Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel.

3 King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel

Inside the ʻKing Kam’ hotel you’ll find 40 historical paintings by legendary artist and Hawaiian historian Herb Kawainui Kāne. Each image depicts an element of indigenous Hawaiian history or culture – fishing, hula, farming, voyaging canoes etc. Hawaiian war weapons, musical instruments and more are also on display.

The Walk: Exit the hotel and walk south along Aliʻi Dr past Niumalu Beach, a sandy spot sheltered by a seawall. Keep an eye out for expert surfers on the nearby break, Huiha.

4 Huliheʻe Palace

Hawaiʻi’s second governor, ʻJohn Adams’ Kuakini, built this two-story, lava-rock house as his private residence in 1838. After Kuakini’s death, the house became the favorite vacation getaway for Hawaiian royalty. The palace contains Western antiques collected on jaunts to Europe and ancient Hawaiian artifacts, most notably several of Kamehameha the Great’s war spears. Reserve a 40-minute tour with Daughters of Hawaiʻi docents.

The Walk: For the final stretch, just cross Aliʻi Dr to the site of Hawaii’s first Christian church, which was replaced soon after with Mokuʻaikaua Church.

5 Mokuʻaikaua Church

Completed in 1836, this church is a handsome building made of lava rock and crushed coral. The posts and beams are made from ʻōhiʻa, and the pews and pulpit are made of koa, the most prized native hardwood. The steeple tops out at 112ft, making this the tallest structure in Kailua. Services are held at 10am on Sundays.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Manta Ray Night Dive

For many, a night snorkel or dive with Pacific manta rays is the capstone experience to their time in Hawaii. The ocean at night is spooky enough, but to see these graceful, gentle creatures with 8ft to 14ft wingspans glide out of the darkness and perform backflips as they feed is unforgettable.

Jeff Stamer/shutterstock ©

Scan for manta-sighting data from the Manta Pacific Research Foundation.

Manta Ray Night Snorkeling

There are two locations where night manta experiences take place: the original site in Keauhou Bay (in front of the Outrigger Kona Resort) is referred to as Manta Village, while a more northerly site up by the airport is called Manta Heaven. The chance of seeing mantas is slightly higher at Manta Village, but at Manta Heaven, divers who do see mantas tend to see more of them (as many as 40 have been spotted at once). If you’re snorkeling, Manta Village is preferable, as there often fewer boats there, and rarely any divers.

If you go with Sea Quest, you’ll only have a five-minute ride about a rigid-hull inflatable raft to the snorkel spot, and staff members have deep knowledge of the mantas. You’ll be given a wetsuit and snorkel gear, and put in the water with a floating metal ladder-rig that you’ll hang onto as mantas coast beneath you. A powerful light is attached to the ladder rigs, which attracts a buffet of plankton and, subsequently, mantas. While clutching the rig you may feel a bit restricted, but it is illegal in the state of Hawaii to touch manta rays, and the floating ladders are a preventative tool that guards against accidental contact. The tours cost $128 per person and last about two hours. Other reputable companies that run snorkel trips to Manta Village include Fair Wind and Sea Paradise.

For a slightly different way of experiencing the mantas at night, Anelakai Adventures and Eka Canoe Adventures send small groups out in traditional outrigger canoes. Guests may remain in the canoes to view the mantas from the surface, but they can also hop into the water and snorkel. These tours start at $118 per person.

DID YOU KNOW?

Manta-watching is enormously popular, and boat overcrowding has led to poor practices – some boats anchor on reefs, destroying coral, and mantas can sometimes swim dangerously close to boat propellors. Do some research before you book.

Xiaoyue Guo/Getty Images ©

LOOK, DON’T TOUCH

Manta rays have no stingers and are harmless to humans. Humans, however, are a massive threat to manta rays, due to overfishing and entanglements in fishing nets. Touching them is also harmful; manta rays are covered in a mucous film and when it’s removed, they become more susceptible to bacterial infections.

Manta Ray Night Diving

Manta night diving can either involve one tank or two. The latter option includes a preliminary reef dive around sunset, and the second dive takes place at Manta Heaven after dark. To witness the manta spectacle, divers descending to what’s referred to as ‘the campfire,’ where bright lights positioned on the bottom attract plankton (which in turn attracts manta rays). The magnificent creatures perform a sort of ballet, swooping in, rising face-to-face through the water column and, at times, gliding just above the heads of the divers. Kona is the only place in the world where this happens, and it’s truly awe-inspiring.

The cost ranges from around $150 to $220, depending on the number of dives, and includes basic dive gear. A number of reputable companies offer manta night dives, but our top pick is Aquatic Life Divers, a newer company with top-notch gear and personable, knowledgeable dive masters. Also recommended are Big Island Divers, Kona Honu Divers and Jack’s Diving Locker.

TOP TIPS

• Complete the waiver (and medical questionnaire if diving) in advance.

• Show up early to give yourself time to find a parking spot.

• The later in the evening your tour takes place, the fewer boats you’ll see in the water.

• Bring an underwater camera, towels and something warm to wear.

• Snacks, juice and water are usually provided.

• If you don’t see any mantas, many companies will allow you to join another tour at no charge (space permitting).

• Keep a look out for other marine life such as fish, eels and turtles.

• Non-divers should ask about manta ray snorkeling excursions.

Beyond Kailua-Kona

Untamed and arid, the North Kona Coast is where the bright blue Pacific meets surreal lava fields.

North Kona runs 33 miles from Kailua-Kona up the coast along Queen Kaʻahumanu Hwy (Hwy 19), encompassing busy Honokōhau Harbor, the science and technology park at Keāhole Point, the sacred Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park, an international airport and a vast desertscape of jet-black and rust-colored lava, extending for miles before a crashing sea. Walking across the ʻaʻa (rough, jagged lava) under the beating sun is like stumbling over Cap’n Crunch in an oven. But once you plunge into the turquoise depths of North Kona’s remote beaches, snorkel among its foraging green sea turtles and take in a magical sunset with your toes in the sand, you’ll realize all that ankle-wrenching was worth it. The sun is intense because of the reflection off the lava and sea – bring a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses and lots of (reef-safe) sunscreen.

GETTING AROUND

Hele-On runs at least one daily bus out to the resorts north of Kailua-Kona. Otherwise, North Kona is an easy drive; just be aware of heavy traffic conditions around the airport during rush hour (7am to 9am and 3:30pm to 6pm). You can also cycle out here (bring water); this is one of the few areas of the Belt Rd with a wide shoulder. Note that mile markers decrease as you head north.

North Kona Coast TIME FROM KAILUA-KONA: 20 MINS

Beaches of the North Kona Coast

When it comes to North Kona’s beaches, you’ve got a lot of good options to choose from. For those seeking an end-of-the-world vibe, the gorgeous beaches of Kekaha Kai State Park are some 11 miles north of Kailua-Kona, on the far side of a vast desert of unforgiving black lava. To reach the 1600-acre park, take the chunky lava road between Miles 90 and 91 on Hwy 19 (4WD recommended, but not required). The easiest access point is the parking lot for Mahaiʻula Beach, where you’ll have a short walk to the salt-and-pepper sand, rocky tide pools, shaded picnic tables and toilets. However, if what you’re after is an almost-deserted scoop of soft, white-sand beach cupping brilliant blue-green waters, head to Makalawena Beach (ʻMaks’) instead. You’ll need to take the same access road, but at the junction before the parking lot turn right. Park on the shoulder, then walk north for 30 minutes across the lava and sand dunes. This string of idyllic coves absorbs crowds so well you’ll still feel like you’ve found paradise. The northernmost cove is sandier and gentler, while the southernmost cove is (unofficially) a nude sunbathing spot. Swimming, snorkeling and bodyboarding are popular, but beware rough surf and rocks in the water.

If you’re ready to brave the crowds, continue just a bit further north to Kua Bay (also known as Maniniʻōwali Beach). The sublime crescent-shaped white-sand beach is fronted by sparkling waters in alternating bands of pale cyan, deeper turquoise and rich blue. Expect first-rate swimming and excellent bodyboarding, along with good snorkeling by the rock outcroppings on the bay’s north side. There’s also a lifeguard station where beachgoers can inquire about conditions, which can get choppy. A paved road leads right up to the parking area, which has bathrooms and showers. If you arrive late in the day, parking is tough.

Those with kiddos in tow are served by lovely Kikaua Point Park. Access to the protected white-sand, palm-fringed cove is via a private country club. There are just 28 parking spots (plus two spots for people with disabilities); you’re best off arriving before 8.30am or sometime around 1.30pm, after the initial wave of visitors leaves for lunch. Facilities include restrooms, outdoor showers and drinking water. If you like the vibe at Kikaua, you’ll love the scalloped, palm-fringed coves of Kukio Beach, which is part of the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai. The sand is soft, the swimming is good and there’s a paved trail leading north along the rocky coastline to another beach. Enter through the Four Seasons security guardhouse and request a parking pass (the lot rarely fills up). Facilities include restrooms, outdoor showers and drinking water.

Just a bit further up the coast is the relatively unvisited Kīholo State Park Reserve. With its pristine turquoise waters and shoreline fringed with coconut trees, this is a series of beaches rather one continuous stretch. The main beach (near the parking lot) is pebbly and swimming is fine when seas are calm, while other parts of the bay are popular sunning areas for sea turtles. A walk north at low tide takes you past the Queen’s Bath, a lava tube filled with clear freshwater. Continuing north, you’ll pass a gargantuan private estate with a yellow mansion and tennis courts (keep a respectful distance). Eventually, you’ll cross a bridge and come to Wainanaliʻi Pond, a sea turtle haven. Remember to stay 10ft away.

Kekaha Kai State Park AlbertoLoyo/Getty Images ©

THINGS TO DO IN KEĀHOLE POINT

Keahole Center for Sustainability

Take a tour at the Hawaii Ocean Science & Technology Park, with a focus on sustainable aquaculture and green energy. Call ahead.

Big Island Abalone

At this abalone aquaculture facility, tours include a bit of history, some hands-on exhibits and a tasting.

Ocean Rider Seahorse Farm

Learn about seahorses farm-raised for aquariums on an interesting but overpriced tour.

Ke Kai Ola

Contact this wildlife hospital that cares for the endangered Hawaiian monk seal to see about volunteering and private tours.

PICNIC SUPPLY STOPS AROUND HONOKOHAU HARBOR

Pau Hana Poke: Fresh fish and unique poke concoctions, including limu (seaweed) marlin and pipikaula (seasoned, dried beef). $$

Pine Tree Cafe: Delicious short ribs, garlic fried chicken and loco moco at this institution are served in awe-inspiring portions. $

Kona Mountain Coffee: Farm-grown coffee roaster’s retail shop offering baked goodies, Hawaiian fudge and caffeinated rocket fuel. $

Kīholo State Park Reserve | Peter French/Getty Images ©

UNIQUE KONA OCEAN ADVENTURES

Captain Dan McSweeney’s Whale Watch

A whale researcher conducts winter excursions focused on humpback sightings and listening in with hydrophones.

Paradise Sailing

Wind-powered sailing trips aboard a 36ft catamaran, with a small number of passengers as companions.

Wild Hawaii Ocean Adventures

WHOA operates a US Navy Special forces assault boat, a maneuverable little number that the owners of this outfit aren’t afraid to push to the limit.

LightSUP Hawaii Kona

Nighttime SUP tours on boards that illuminate the creatures below and attract plankton; proceeds help support reef research and restoration.

B&BS ON THE NORTH KONA COAST

Honu Kai B&B: A plush, romantic four-room B&B set amid tropical gardens just a short drive from downtown Kailua-Kona. $$$

Mango Sunset B&B: Teak furnishings and bamboo accents spruce up the snug rooms on this family-owned organic coffee farm. $$

Hale Hualālai B&B: Oceanview suites with lanais and breakfast prepared by the friendly host-chef, sourced from his garden. $$

Ka‘ūpūlehu TIME FROM KAILUA-KONA: 20 MINS

Go fancy at ritzy resorts

Once a thriving fishing village on the North Kona Coast, Ka‘ūpūlehu was wiped out by the 1946 tsunami and abandoned until the Kona Village Resort opened here in 1965. The celebrity haven and favorite vacation spot of Steve Jobs closed in 2011 after more tsunami damage, but reopened with a fabulous facelift in 2023 as Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort. Spread over 81 acres, the Big Island’s classiest stay is powered by 8000 solar panels, and its thatched-roof hale start at $1190 a night (before tax). They come with oversized lanai and outdoor rain showers, along with bikes, spa treatments, water activities and more. Those who balk at the price can still dine and drink in the four restaurants and bars, which include the Pacific Rim fave Moana (don’t skip the tableside pineapple upside down cake) and the Shipwreck Bar, a previously sunken sailboat serving up eclectic cocktails and authentic Hawaiian snacks.

A coconut’s toss down the coast, the luxurious Four Seasons Resort Hualālai earns accolades with top-flight service and lavish attention to detail (think fresh orchids in every room). Beachfront villas offer private infinity pools, while lower-level rooms have rejuvenating outdoor lava-rock showers. The pools, golf course and spa are all outstanding, and you can snorkel with 60 species of tropical fish in the King’s Pond. The Beach Tree and ʻUlu Ocean Grill & Sushi Lounge are open to nonguests, who can also wander the Ka‘ūpūlehu Cultural Center, a small museum containing a collection of original Herb Kane paintings. On-site Hawaiian cultural practitioners link the present with the past, offering classes and cultural demonstrations (reservations required).

THE BIG ISLAND FROM THE AIR

UFO Parasail

Parasail your way through paradise on a trip with UFO, which operates singe and tandem ‘flights’ out of the King Kamehameha hotel.

Paradise Helicopters

Pricey Kona-based helicopter tours that include volcanoes, waterfalls, beaches and rainforests, plus hiking or ziplining.

Tropicbird Flight Service

If a helicopter ride feels too tame, why not learn to fly a training aircraft with an FAA Certified Flight Instructor?

Mauna Loa Helicopter Tours

This reputable company trains pilots to fly fixed wing and rotary helicopters, and does tours of the Kona coast.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park

This 1160-acre national park may be the Kona Coast’s most under-appreciated ancient site. Hidden among lava fields lies evidence of the innovations that allowed Hawaiians to thrive in this hostile landscape, like fish traps and lava planters used to grow taro and other staples. There are also temples, burial caves and petroglyphs.

Alberto Loyo/Shutterstock ©

Scan this QR code for opening hours and other information.

Visitor Center

The park’s main entrance is off Hwy 19 between Miles 96 and 97, where there’s a parking lot and a small but informative ranger-staffed visitor center. This is a great place to get your bearings and some advice about how to spend your time in the park, which was established in 1978 to celebrate and preserve the ancient Hawaiians’ way of life.

There’s a short interpretative trail with signage about why they settled among these seemingly inhospitable lava fields and managed to achieve a balance with their natural surroundings. The trail extends to the Ala Mauka Makai Trail, which passes some petroglyphs on its way to Honokohau Beach (about 0.75 miles one way).

DON’T MISS

Visitor Center

Honokōhau Beach

ʻAiʻopio Fishtrap

Puʻuoina Heiau

Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail

Kaloko Fishpond

ʻAimakapa Fishpond

Honokōhau Beach

This postcard-pretty, hook-shaped beach is a mix of black lava, white coral and wave-tossed shells, and just standing on the shore you’ll often see honu (green sea turtles). Look for them munching on limu (seaweed) around the ancient ʻAiʻopio Fishtrap at the beach’s southern end, where early inhabitants raised the lava wall and placed nets across the openings to catch fish. Beside it you’ll find Puʻuoina Heiau, an ancient temple signifying the importance of the fishtrap and nearby fishponds. Strict rules were in place to ensure that fish were only harvested from the pools in times of abundance, which kept the fishery from depleting. Inland, you’ll also notice anchialine ponds – pools of brackish water that make unique habitats for marine and plant life.

ALA KAHAKAI NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAIL

The park contains a 2.5-mile stretch of this 175-mile ancient footpath, restored in 2000 to preserve Hawaiian culture. The historic trail extends from Puna on the eastern shoreline down to the island’s southernmost point (Ka Lae) and up the west side, terminating at the northern tip (ʻUpolu Point).

ʻAimakapa Fishpond

If you walk up Honokōhau Beach along the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail for a few minutes, you’ll soon reach ʻAimakapa – the largest fishpond on the Kona Coast. Ancient Hawaiians constructed it behind the dunes to hold fish they planned on eating, and they also dug channels from the pond to the ocean, allowing water to flow in and out with the tides. Rare native waterbirds such as aeʻo (Hawaiian black-necked stilt) and ʻalae kea (Hawaiian coot) use the aquatic plants lining the fishpond for nests, and nearby, you’ll find the ancient remains of a holua (lava-sledding course).

TOP TIPS

• Go in the early morning, late afternoon or when skies are overcast to avoid the unbearable midday heat.

• Don’t climb on, move, alter or deface any rock structures.

• Don’t disturb or come within 10ft of the threatened honu (green sea turtles) that haul out here to rest.

• Avoid stinging ants by staying on trails and refraining from sitting on the ground or touching trees or bushes.

• The water is usually too cloudy for snorkeling, and signage asks that visitors respect the sacred site by refraining from sunbathing, playing games or picnicking.

Kaloko Fishpond

Continue another 1.5 miles north along the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail and you’ll reach Kaloko Fishpond. It’s especially fascinating because its massive rock retaining wall has been rebuilt in the traditional way – dry stacking, with no mortar or shaping of the rocks – so it can once again be fished as it was in ages past. Some speculate that the bones of Kamehameha the Great were secretly buried in a cave nearby.

Alternatively, you can reach this site by driving north from the park’s visitor center on Hwy 19 until you reach a separate entrance at Ala Nui Kaloko Rd. Note that the wall is closed to foot traffic, so you’ll need to walk about a mile around the fishpond to reach the other side. During research, that section of the trail was closed due to stinging ants.

HŌLUALOA

BOHEMIAN VILLAGE | ART | FESTIVALS

The further up the mountain you get from Kailua-Kona, the more artsy, residential and rural it gets (not to mention cooler and damper), until all of these qualities mush into one misty bohemian village: Hōlualoa. Perched at 1400ft on the lush slopes of Hualālai, this town – village, really – has come a long way from its days as a tiny, one-donkey coffee crossroads. Today Hōlualoa’s ramshackle buildings hold a small but lovely collection of galleries and shops, some of which are owned by internationally renowned artists. During special events and holidays, the little village of Hōlualoa becomes a veritable mountain-side art gallery – which, to be fair, is an apt description of the place at any time of year.

Although the census-designated area called ʻHōlualoa’ extends to the sea and includes much of Aliʻi Dr, when locals speak of Hōlualoa they are referring to the upcountry settlement described here, plus the surrounding mountainside and agricultural areas.

SIGHTS

1   Japanese Cemetery

2   Malama Iʻka Ola Holistic Health Center

SLEEPING

3   Hale Maluhia Country Inn

4   Hōlualoa Inn

SHOPPING

5   Hōlualoa ‘Ukulele Gallery

6   Ipu Arts

7   Kimura Lauhala Shop

GETTING AROUND

Hōlualoa village lines Hwy 180 (Mamalahoa Hwy), north of the Hualālai Rd intersection. In late 2023, the new owner of the Holuakoa Cafe and an adjacent parking area closed the lot to the public, exacerbating traffic issues and infuriating locals. There are no public transportation options in the area.

TOP TIP

There are some nice B&Bs up here and a couple of eateries within walking distance, but definitely no nightlife. If you need to stock up on supplies, head for the beloved local grocery store Doris Place (77-6108 Mamalahoa Hwy), where there’s a good selection of spirits.

Make Local Connections

Immerse yourself in art and culture

The rich cultural heritage of Hōlualoa is something worth planning an entire trip around. Consider visiting during one of the big events here, when the streets come alive and the arts are put front and center. In early November, during the Kona Coffee Cultural Festival, Hōlualoa hosts a day-long block party. There’s also a Christmas celebration with live music and a tree-lighting ceremony. On the first Friday of each month, galleries throw their doors open, visitors mill about, and there’s a general sense of bohemian conviviality.

For a deeper dive into the Big Island’s art community, look no further than the Donkey Mill Art Center. The Hōlualoa Foundation for Arts & Culture created this nonprofit in 1994, and eight years later secured its community center, a 1953 coffee mill with a donkey painted on its roof. Inside there are free exhibits and a plethora of locally made art, plus lectures and workshops taught by recognized national and international artists – all open to visitors. Whether it’s ceramics, printmaking, metal or fiber that interests you, there are likely to be artists you can learn from and collaborate with here; the center also puts on lots of family-friendly arts education programs. Visit donkeymillartcenter.org for the schedule.

Finally, for music enthusiasts with a bit more time and an interest in the ‘ukulele, up the street at Hōlualoa ‘Ukulele Gallery owner Sam Rosen offers the opportunity to build your own instrument. The workshops takes place over 10 days, for seven hours each day, and you go home with a fully functional ‘ukulele, built with your own hands.

BEST PLACES TO STAY IN HŌLUALOA

Hōlualoa Inn

From the eucalyptus floors to the river-rock showers to the carved furnishings, beauty abounds in every detail of this exquisite B&B. $$$

Hale Maluhia Country Inn

A jungle mountain retreat imbued with Japanese, Hawaiian and bohemian style and sensibility, surrounded by coffee plantations. $$

Liliko‘i Inn

With an airy, modern-art-gallery-meets-the-tropics vibe, this B&B blends cool monochromes with tasteful Hawaiiana. $$

Aolani House

Stunning vacation rental house and cottage with a saltwater infinity pool, spa and outdoor shower, ensconced in coffee country. $$$

WALKING TOUR

A Stroll Through Hōlualoa

Saunter down Mamalahoa Hwy through the quaint enclave of Hōlualoa, checking out the art, picking up souvenirs and grabbing tasty roadside coffee and snacks. The galleries feature unique works and make for excellent shopping, and oftentimes the artists themselves are present to answer questions and ‘talk story.’ A Japanese cemetery and ‘ukulele center offer further insight into the local culture.

Ipu | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

1 Ipu Arts

Begin at this magnificent shop full of ipu (gourds) decoratively carved with Hawaiian imagery and dyed using an ancient method unique to Niʻihau island. The art form had been lost for over a century until a scholar rediscovered it int 1980, and today the shop owner and a small community of gourd carvers continue to create new works.

The Walk: Head south along Mamalahoa Hwy to White Nene Coffee Roasters for some delicious Kona coffee. Then keep walking until you reach Malama Iʻka Ola Holistic Health Center, before you cross the street to Studio 7.

2 Studio 7

The oldest contemporary fine-art gallery in Hawaii is housed in a serene, museum-like space. On prominent display are the works of artist-owner Hiroki Morinoue, who is exceptional with watercolor, oil, woodblock and sculpture, and the pottery of his accomplished wife, Setsuko. Pieces draw on Japanese influences and history but are also excellent executions of contemporary art.

The Walk: Cross back to the east side of the street and walk to Sundog Bread. Pick up a pastry before wandering back across to the ‘ukulele center.

3 Hōlualoa ‘Ukulele Gallery

Inside a historic post office, beautifully handcrafted ‘ukuleles made by owner Sam Rosen and other island luthiers are on display. The featured instruments are of the highest quality and ever-changing. Guests are welcome to try out items on display.

The Walk: Pop into Kona Treehouse, a new plant and gift shop next door, then continue south past the Immaculate Conception Catholic Church to Hōlualoa’s Japanese Cemetery.

4 Japanese Cemetery

The upland coffee country of the Kona coast has historically been settled and worked by Japanese immigrants and their descendants, and this cemetery, clinging to the mountain slopes and full of coral and lava-rock headstones inscribed with kanji, speaks to that heritage. The cemetery is actively visited by locals so be respectful.

The Walk: A 5-minute walk south brings you to Kimura Lauhala Shop, at the intersection of Hualālai Rd and Mamalahoa Hwy.

5 Kimura Lauhala Shop

Four generations of Kimuras have sold lauhala (hala tree) products in this shop, making it as much a landmark as a business. There’s a beautiful selection of handcrafted artisanal goods on display. The lauhala hats, placemats, baskets and tote bags are the real deal here – don’t fall prey to cheap imports sold elsewhere.

Beyond Hōlualoa

Winding mountain roads lead to quaint coffee farms, unusual outdoor adventures and hubs of Hawaiian and Japanese culture.

Up in the hills surrounding Hōlualoa you’ll find some of the Big Island’s most enchanting environs: this is where high elevation, frequent cloud coverage and fertile volcanic soil come together to produce some of the island’s best coffee beans. Kona coffee has had gourmet cachet for decades, and today many coffee farms have opened roadside visitor centers and gift shops where they give free samples and tours. The best time to visit is during the harvest season, running from August through February, when ʻKona snow’ (white blossoms) and ʻcherries’ (mature berry fruit) cluster on the coffee trees. Once you’re caffeinated to the max, it’s time to explore some of the Japanese-influenced local establishments, hop on a guided cloud forest hike or soak up the culture in historic Kainaliu.

GETTING AROUND

Having your own wheels is ideal in this region, particularly if you’re visiting coffee farms. The Hele-On Bus runs up and down Hwy 11 between Kailua-Kona and Captain Cook about 10 times a day, mainly in the morning and sporadically after noon. It can get pretty packed with commuters, but travelers can ride.

Get Caffeinated

Coffee tours and tastings

With its strong, smooth flavor, Kona coffee is some of the world’s best. A trip to the Big Island is therefore incomplete without sampling its premier product (don’t mess with the blends, though – the 100% pure Kona coffee is where it’s at). Exploring a coffee farm or two is also a great way to learn about the island’s agricultural heritage and history. Just be sure to make reservations for tours and other activities – you won’t want to have braved these steep, narrow roads for nothing.

Many coffee-farm tours are 15-minute affairs, but the Kona Coffee Living History Farm, run by the Kona Historical Society (an affiliate of the Smithsonian Institute), goes deeper. More than just an exploration of how coffee is grown and harvested, this self-guided experience on a 5.5-acre working coffee farm includes encounters with costumed interpreters who demonstrate traditional crafts, agricultural practices and the everyday activities of rural Japanese immigrants to South Kona. Several of the docents grew up on area coffee farms, so they speak from experience about the orchards, processing mill, drying roofs and main house. It’s $20 per person, with no reservations required. It’s open between 10am and 2pm Tuesday and Friday, and located 10 miles south of Hōlualoa in Captain Cook.

For those who would like to support one of the island’s eco-friendliest producers, there’s Hōlualoa Kona Coffee Company. The company’s small, organic-certified Kona Leʻa Plantation is less than 2 miles south of Hōlualoa. No pesticides or herbicides are used, and as you drive up, watch out for the free-ranging geese who do double duty as lawnmowers and fertilizer. A visit here is a peek into rustic, jungle-grown sustainability: you’ll be surrounded by composted coffee-cherry skins, mulched green waste, and sacks of organic fertilizer. Tours are free and take place 8am to 3pm Monday through Thursday.

Another popular tour is that of Greenwell Farms, a 150-acre family farm established in 1850 and run by fourth-generation Greenwells. One of Kona’s oldest and best-known coffee plantations, it roasts coffee cherries from more than 200 local growers. On the free guided tour you’ll learn how coffee goes from seed to cup; samples are on offer before and after. Tours run for around an hour and are available from 9am to 3pm daily. For a more in-depth experience, the deluxe tour and tasting visits the cupping room, roasting room, farm, wet mill, nursery and dry mill. It happens at 9:30am and 1:30pm on weekdays and costs $40 per person.

If you’d like a side of jaw-dropping ocean views with your award-winning coffee, we suggest Hula Daddy Kona Coffee, less than 5 miles north of Hōlualoa. Its epicurean tasting room and eco-conscious 33-acre farm is also a great place to learn about cupping and the unusual coffee-production techniques used to create the signature Kona Oli and Kona Sweet beans. The $35 tours take place at 10:15am and noon on Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday. Reserve in advance.

Another 3 miles south on Mamalahoa Hwy and you’ll come to the 26-acre farm of UCC Hawaii, one of the largest coffee companies in all of Japan. The ocean-view farm is divine and you can tour it for free between 9am and 4:30pm daily, but there’s also a harvest tour (available seasonally; $35 per person) and a roastmaster tour ($50 per person), in which visitors roast a half-pound of their own Kona coffee.

Coffee field | Reimar Gaertner/UIG/getty images ©

EAT & DRINK LIKE A LOCAL

Karen Paterson owns Hula Daddy Kona Coffee, a coffee farm north of Hōlualoa. Her top recommendations for hyper-local places to try include:

Randy’s Huli Chicken & Ribs

This place is just two picnic tables. There’s no view, and when they run out of chicken, it’s over. Try the Portuguese sweet bread from the stone oven. Find it along Mamalahoa Hwy near Kealakekua. Open Thursdays and Fridays.

Kaʻaloa’s Super J’s

This is the spot for laulau (steamed pork, chicken or fish wrapped inside taro leaves), salty lomilomi salmon and poi (mashed taro). It’s 3 miles south of Captain Cook.

Pure Kona Green Market

On Sundays, pick up local produce at this Captain Cook market. Everyone is super friendly and always ready to ʻtalk story.’

PLACES FOR CULTURE IN KAINALIU

Aloha Theatre: Lively little community theater with quality plays, indie films and live music. Buy tickets in advance to save money.

Kimura H Store: Long-standing family shop rolling out yards of colorfully patterned Hawaiian and Japanese fabrics.

Kiernan Music: Friendly and knowledgeable owner Brian Kiernan has a talent for restoring vintage ‘ukuleles and guitars.

Kona coffee | Christopher Michel, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons ©

JAPANESE CULTURE IN HONALO

At a bend in the road where Hwy 11 and Hwy 180 intersect, little time-warped Honalo is your first sign that more than miles separate you from the touristy Kona coast. The strong presence of Japanese culture within the coffee belt is palpable here in the form of temples and restaurants. The first building you see when entering from the north is the Buddhist Daifukuji Soto Mission. Slip off your shoes and admire the two ornate, lovingly tended altars. Everyone is welcome to join Zen meditation sessions, tai chi lessons and taiko (Japanese drum) practices; check daifukuji.org for details. And for a window into local life, grab a table at Teshima’s Restaurant, a wonderful family-run place that’s been dishing up Japanese comfort food since the 1950s.

EATING IN AROUND HŌLUALOA: SWEET TREATS

Gypsea Gelato: Brilliant flavors, ranging from ginger and lemongrass to Kona coffee, macadamia nut and chocolate. In Kainaliu. $

Donkey Balls: Chocolate heaven in Kainaliu. Try the Jitter Balls, coated in 100% Kona coffee, or the Blue Balls, layer with blue-colored white chocolate. $

Buddha’s Cup Sanctuary: High-mountain coffee farm where the tours and beans are great, but the Kona Gold rum cake steals the show. $$

Hikers’ Delights

Forest and neighborhood strolls

If you’re keen on a guided, far-flung day hike in the Big Island’s greenest depths, contact Hawaii Forest & Trail. From the always-popular Mauna Kea summit trail to hikes that run by volcanic lava and guided bird-watching excursions in Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge, these expert naturalists and eco-sustainability stewards have you covered.

If you prefer to stay closer to Kona, drive 3000ft up the slopes of Hualālai, where the Kaloko Mauka subdivision contains the spectacular Kona Cloud Forest Sanctuary. A cloud forest is a moist woodland where mist and fog are constants. Founded in 1982 by a local horticulture professor and carried on by his descendants, the sanctuary holds 70 acres of restored ranch lands, which now serve as a haven for native plants and birds. It also contains demonstration gardens of non-native species, including more than 100 varieties of bamboo. Sustainable-agriculture types and horticulturists won’t want to miss a visit to this well-kept Kona secret. Visits are guided, with 1½- and 2½-hour tours ($100 and $150 per adult, respectively) and a forest sound bath and meditation session ($40 per person). Reserve in advance.

Less formal but nonetheless rewarding wanderings include the Makāula Oʻoma Trails within the Honuaʻula Forest Reserve, a lush fern forest dotted with ʻōhiʻa and hāpu‘u (tree fern). There are 4.5 miles of paths and the most popular is the Jurassic Trail, an appropriate moniker considering the prehistoric-looking foliage. The hiking begins at the end of Makahi St, off Kaloko Dr. Park on the side of the road and be sure your shoes are suitable for mud. For a less adventurous walk that locals love, check out the Walua Trail off Lako St. Popular with joggers, cyclists and stroller-pushers, the 6-mile paved trail weaves through neighborhoods and offers some stunning ocean views. During the Ironman competition, this trail is packed.

BEST ACTIVITIES AROUND HŌLUALOA

Aloha Adventure Farms

Ride an ATV through the Hawaiian jungle or learn Polynesian tiki carving from master woodworker – or try both on a combo tour.

Three Ring Ranch Exotic Animal Sanctuary

This sanctuary on 5 acres protects and cares for endangered creatures such as nēnē geese and Hawaiian hawks. Group and VIP tours by reservation only.

HN Greenwell Store Museum

Built in 1875 and meticulously restored, this museum brings Kona’s agricultural history to life. Docents dress in period garb.

Malama Iʻka Ola Holistic Health Center

In a 19th-century doctor’s office, this oasis offers yoga and Pilates, as well as massage, acupuncture, Chinese medicine and skin treatments.

CAPTAIN COOK

NATIVE HAWAIIAN HISTORY | KEALAKEKUA BAY | OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

This seaside enclave may technically share a name with the British imperialist captain who died here, but the history here goes much further back than Captain Cook’s brief stay and dramatic demise in 1779. Until the late 18th century, the thriving village was called Kaʻawaloa, and it contained a residence for Hawaiian royalty, along with burial grounds for rulers and their families. The name was changed in the early 1900s, after American sugar planters overthrew the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi and Captain Cook Sugar Company opened a post office here. But in recent years Hawaiians have been campaigning – thus far unsuccessfully – to bring back the original name.

Approaching from the north, the greenery thickens, the ocean views become more compelling and the start of the town is signaled by the Manago Hotel, a 1917 institution that began as a restaurant catering to salespeople on the then-lengthy journey between Hilo and Kona. The stout hotel remains a regional touchstone and in 2023 the restaurant won a James Beard Award. Other highlights include Kealakekua Bay, a popular snorkeling and hiking area containing a 27ft obelisk marking the spot where Cook died, and meandering Napoʻopoʻo Rd, which snakes up from the coast toward the mountain. It’s a pretty place to drive, with organic farms, sprawling gardens and a dainty Catholic church rounding out the scenery.

SIGHTS

1   Kealakekua Bay

2   Kona Coffee Living History Farm

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

3   Adventures in Paradise

4   Aloha Kayak Co

5   Captain Cook Monument Trail

6   Kaʻawaloa Cove

7   Kona Boys

SLEEPING

8   A Beautiful Edge of the World B&B

9   Aloha Guest House

10   Belle Vue Kona

11   Kaʻawa Loa Plantation & Guesthouse

12   Kane Plantation

EATING

13   Black Rock Pizza

14   Da Bread Stand

15   Keʻei Café

16   Rebel Kitchen

17   Shaka Tacoz

18   South Kona Fruit Stand

19   Two Step Bakery

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

20   Cafe Florian

21   Coffee Shack

22   Korner Pocket Bar & Grill

23   Menehune Coffee

SHOPPING

24   Pure Kona Green Market

GETTING AROUND

ʻCentral’ Captain Cook is about 13 miles south of Kailua-Kona on Mamalahoa Hwy (Hwy 11). Hele-On Bus services can drop you off along the way to Kailua-Kona. The easiest place to catch buses is from the Rodney Yano Memorial Hall on Mamalahoa Hwy. Eight buses leave daily, roughly every two hours from 7am to 9pm. Buses run to Kailua-Kona, stopping in Keauhou along the way.

TOP TIP

Spend a day or two in this area with no agenda whatsoever. The winding roads of South Kona are some of the prettiest on the island, making them perfect for a lazy day’s drive, and you can pop by local landmarks, quiet beaches and cozy cafes at your leisure.

So Much Aloha

Stay at a B&B

In and around Captain Cook you’ll find a superior collection of B&Bs. These stays are so fabulous, and the hosts so hospitable, that it’s worth planning a trip around.

The elegant Kaʻawa Loa Plantation & Guesthouse effortlessly embodies Hawaii’s beauty with its wraparound lanai featuring unparalleled coastal views and gracious hosts. Exquisitely decorated rooms (some with shared baths) come with fine linens, and there’s also a dreamy cottage next door. Breakfast is a scrumptious buffet of local flavors, and a swing, hot tub and sauna round out amenities.

Nearby, A Beautiful Edge of the World B&B is an eclectic home hidden away in a quiet, tropical neighborhood. The retired professor/writer/pilot/coffee farmer who runs the place is a wealth of information, and his wife cooks up fabulous breakfasts. Budget-friendly rooms are comfy, with private lanais overlooking the ocean. Nearby Belle Vue Kona is another favorite with travelers. This pricier spot is located on a 5-acre coffee plantation and the rooms with covered lanai have sweeping ocean views. The owners are very helpful.

If you don’t mind staying further afield, head south along Mamalahoa Hwy and up the steep, bumpy unpaved road to Aloha Guest House. You’ll swoon at the heady ocean views from the shared lanai, living and dining area and two guest bedrooms on this 5-acre farm. The meticulous hosts are serious about their from-scratch breakfasts, sourced with their own fruit trees and estate-grown coffee. Nearby, there’s the historic Kane Plantation, where renowned Hawaiian artist Herb Kane once lived. Perched on a lush hillside, the B&B shares its grounds with an avocado farm. Upstairs, the spacious Kanaloa Suite boasts views of Kealakekua Bay from a private lanai. Breakfasts are gourmet, and the hosts charming.

Kealakekua Bay | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

BEST PLACES FOR A DRINK AROUND CAPTAIN COOK

Coffee Shack

Famous for excellent coffee and views of Kealakekua Bay from an open-air deck. The homemade lilikoʻi (passionfruit) cheesecake is a bonus. $$

Korner Pocket Bar & Grill

Dive-y local watering hole with a daily happy hour (3pm to 6pm), packed pool tables and live music on weekends. $$

Cafe Florian

This clean, cozy cafe has a back porch for sitting, watching geckos and sipping strong Kona coffee. Lots of vegetarian menu options too. $$

Menehune Coffee

Attractive roadside restaurant dishing out fine coffee and basic (but well-executed) island-style diner fare, with ocean views. $$

LOCAL TOUR OPERATORS

Kona Boys: A fixture of the local scene, with kayaking, snorkeling and outrigger-canoe sailing trips to Kealakekua Bay, plus surfing and SUP lessons and rentals.

Adventures in Paradise: Professional water-sports outfitter with guides who look after beginners and lead excellent kayak-snorkeling trips.

Aloha Kayak Co: Hawaiian-owned outfit with kayak rentals and SUP gear rental, plus tours to Kealakekua Bay and other spots along the coast.

Making a Day of Kealakekua Bay

Hiking, kayaking and snorkeling

Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park blends incredible natural beauty with enormous historic importance. It’s a major religious site for Native Hawaiians and also marks the spot where Captain Cook and, by extension, the outside world first set foot in the archipelago, irrevocably altering the fate of the islands and their residents. The bay is a state park and a marine-life conservation area, and is famous for its rich variety of sea life, including spinner dolphins. This entire area is considered sacred, and deserves respect. There are a few different ways to experience it, and the simplest (and least expensive) is to walk there.

Hiking to the bay

The only land access is via the Captain Cook Monument Trail, which offers nice lookouts on the way down and leads right to the snorkeling cove. To get to the trailhead, turn off the Mamalahoa Hwy onto Napoʻopoʻo Rd and park along the narrow road shoulder (look for where other vehicles have done the same). The 1.8 mile descending path takes about an hour, and brings you directly to the Captain Cook Monument at the northern edge of the bay. This tall white obelisk in Kaʻawaloa Cove is visible from a mile away, and marks the spot where Captain Cook was killed in an armed confrontation with Hawaiians in 1779. In 1877, as an act of diplomacy, the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi deeded the land that the monument stands on to Britain (so yes: this is technically British soil). Behind lie some scattered stones and foundation marks, the ruins of the ancient village of Kaʻawaloa. Bring snacks and eat them before you go swimming; otherwise, clever mongooses will burrow into your bag and snatch food items while you’re gone. While in the water, keep an eye out for spiky urchins. Hiking back up, the 1300ft elevation gain feels pretty steep. Allow two hours to return, bring plenty of water and wear shoes suitable for hiking.

On the water

Another way to experience Kealakekua Bay is by kayak, canoe or stand-up paddleboard, although there are tight regulations around this due to overcrowding, which has had an impact on the bay. Individuals are not allowed to launch from Napoʻopoʻo Wharf or land at Kaʻawaloa Cove, but special recreational permits for transiting the bay are available in advance from the Division of State Parks (dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/park) and it’s possible to launch from Keʻei Beach. The other option is a guided kayaking tour with a state-permitted outfitter; check the State Parks website for a current list. Most tours launch from Napoʻopoʻo Wharf, paddling 30 to 45 minutes across the bay to Kaʻawaloa Cove. Prevailing winds are from the northwest, so returning is usually faster and easier.

THE END OF CAPTAIN COOK

On January 17, 1779, Captain Cook sailed into Kealakekua Bay. His visit coincided with the makahiki festival, a period when warfare was suspended. Cook’s welcome was spectacular: more than 1000 canoes surrounded his ships and 9000 people hailed him. A few weeks later, Cook departed, but he soon encountered a storm and returned to the bay. Insults and suspicion replaced politeness, and after the English took the Hawaiian chief hostage and killed a couple of Hawaiians, a melee broke out. Cook was clubbed to death and dismembered in the custom reserved for high chiefs. Surviving Brits torched homes and slaughtered Hawaiians – women and children included. Eventually the Hawaiians returned Cook’s skull, hands and feet – which the English buried at sea. The Hawaiians kept his femurs.

Boating and snorkeling trips

The final way to visit Kealakekua Bay is on a boating or snorkeling trip. At the northern end, protected Kaʻawaloa Cove (also known as Kaʻawaloa Flats) ranks among Hawaiʻi’s premier snorkeling spots. Protected from ocean swells, its aquamarine waters are especially clear. Tropical fish and coral are brilliantly abundant, and strong swimmers can go 100ft from shore to hang over the blue abyss of an underwater cliff. If you’re lucky, honu (green sea turtles) and spinner dolphins might join you, but remember not to approach these wild animals. By law, you must remain at least 10ft away from turtles and 50ft from dolphins, whales and seals in the water. All Hawaiian sea turtles are endangered – never touch or try to ride them.

ROADSIDE SNACKS

Da Bread Stand: A white pushcart under red umbrellas sells insane sweet breads (avocado, kale, mango) at 10am Tuesday and Friday. $

South Kona Fruit Stand: Baskets of exotics fruits, plus great smoothies, paninis and gorgeous ocean views, 6 miles south of Captain Cook. $

Two Step Bakery: Find decadent mochi cake, local coconut bread and luscious fruit pies at this honor-system baked goods stand. $

CRUISING AROUND CAPTAIN COOK

This scenic drive begins at the no-frills 1 Manago Hotel, where the fourth-generation owners maintain the historic structure and surrounding koi pond and garden, not to mention an award-winning restaurant famous for its pork chops. If it happens to be a Sunday, head up the driveway across from the hotel to the 2 Pure Kona Green Market, a veritable town hall and gossip center for all of South Kona. Pick up some fresh produce and funky crafts then continue northwest, hanging a left on Napoʻopoʻo Rd. You’ll drive by the trailhead for the 3 Captain Cook Monument Trail, a tough but worthwhile 1.8-mile descent to Kealakekua Bay, where the captain was killed. Brave it (and bring a snorkel), or continue along the winding road to 4 Big Island Bees, a roadside gift shop and tiny historical museum where you can learn how single-varietal, certified-organic honey is made. Double back onto Middle Keʻei Rd toward 5 Paleaku Gardens Peace Sanctuary, a 7-acre parcel of tranquil gardens containing shrines to the world’s major religions and an impressive ‘galaxy garden,’ a scale model of the Milky Way represented with plants. Just beyond the garden you’ll reach 6 St Benedict’s Painted Church, a Gothic cathedral famous for its lavishly painted interior, and surrounded by tropical blooms and gravestones (admission free). Finally, circle back onto the Mamalahoa Hwy and pop into the 7 Society for Kona’s Education & Art, a hotbed of local activity, with Polynesian dance, tai chi, Japanese-ink-painting classes, art shows and poetry readings. If you’re feeling beat, complete the journey with a treatment at 8 Mamalahoa Hot Tubs & Massage.

Beyond Captain Cook

For its sacred grounds, chill vibe and unique accommodations, this slice of Old Hawaii is unrivaled.

More than any other region of Hawaiʻi, the outskirts of Captain Cook pull together the many strands that make up the geo-cultural tapestry of the Big Island. There is both the dry lava desert and the wet, misty jungles; there are fishing villages inhabited by local families, next to hippie art galleries established by counterculture exiles from the mainland, next to condos plunked down by millionaire land developers. In addition, the coastline south of Captain Cook is features one of Hawaii’s most historically significant sites. It’s here that ancient Hawaiian aliʻi (royalty) secretly buried the bones of their ancestors and kapu (taboo) breakers and warriors braved shark-infested waters to reach the puʻuhonua (place of refuge).

Miloliʻi Beach Park | norinori303/shutterstock ©

GETTING AROUND

Having your own wheels is key, as there is no public transportation here. Uber, Lyft and taxis may be available, but prices are often steep. Privacy is paramount in these parts, but curious tourists are treated well – as long as they act like courteous guests.

Sand, Sun & Snorkeling

South Kona’s Beaches

The southern expanse of the Kona coastline has a beach for every traveler.

For families, camping fans and marine life enthusiasts, there’s Hoʻokena Beach Park, a modest, charcoal-colored shore backed by a steep green hillside. When calm, the bay’s waters are ideal for swimming and snorkeling (although the bottom drops off quickly). Coral and other marine life abounds, and you might spot dolphins and humpback whales offshore. Facilities include restrooms, outdoor showers, drinking water, a picnic pavilion and campsites, which can be reserved for $21 per person per night through Friends of Hoʻokena Beach Park.

About 8 miles south, solitude seekers will appreciate Pebble Beach. Not quite pebbles, the smoky stones of this nonsandy beach at the bottom of the Kona Paradise subdivision range from gumdrop- to palm-size. It’s a popular kayak put-in and offers a good dose of peace and quiet. Note that those rocks do get hot and watch out for waves – the currents here are powerful.

Another 14 miles south, the fishing village of Miloliʻi and its gorgeous beach will appeal to adventurous travelers. Drive first to Miloliʻi Beach Park, a county park with restrooms, picnic tables and tide pools. From here, look for the marked public path beginning just beyond Miloliʻi’s basketball courts by the yellow church, and hike south for 1.5 miles. The trail follows the rugged coastline through forested areas and over lava flows before arriving at the crescent-shaped Honomalino Beach. The sand is an amalgam of green, gold, tawny and black, and this secluded beach also has gentle swimming and reef snorkeling.

Honomalino Beach | Billy McDonald/shutterstock ©

HOʻOKENA

Most tourists zip right by the turnoff for Hoʻokena. But meander just a couple of miles downhill to this fishing community and you’ll be surprised by a gorgeous bayfront beach beloved by locals and in-the-know visitors.

Hoʻokena was once a bustling Hawaiian village. Novelist Robert Louis Stevenson wrote about his 1889 visit here in Travels in Hawaii. In the 1890s, Chinese immigrants moved in, a tavern and a hotel opened, and the town got rougher and rowdier. In those days, Big Island cattle were shipped from the Hoʻokena landing, but when the circle-island (now belt) road was built, Honolulu-bound steamers stopped coming and most people moved away.

UNIQUE STAYS BEYOND CAPTAIN COOK

Heaven on Earth: Geodesic domes tucked into a tropical, residential area within walking distance of Kealakekua Bay. $$

Dragonfly Ranch: Swiss Family Robinson meets New Age healing center in the volcanic scrub of South Kona. $$

The Pagoda House: Stunning home with hardwood floors, big light-catching windows and gorgeous views. $$$

Camp Hoʻokena: Chilled-out beach campground popular with families, with spacious sites for tents on the gray-sand beach. $

Honaunau Farm & Eco-Retreat: Organic farmstay with cozy rooms overlooking a working farm and the Kona coast. $

Hawaii Belt Coffee Garden Bed & Breakfast: Simple rooms at a friendly little B&B, located out in the jungle. $

BEST PLACES TO EAT IN & AROUND CAPTAIN COOK

Keʻei Café

Stunning fusion cuisine featuring local ingredients prepared with Brazilian, Asian and European flair. Try the peanut-miso salad and a fish dish.

Shaka Tacoz

A chill roadside cafe with a built-in taco bus featuring fresh, tasty grub, super-friendly service and killer views from the back patio.

Black Rock Pizza

Delicious pizza and cold local beer make this spot endlessly popular. The ocean-view patio doesn’t suck, either.

Rebel Kitchen

Amazing sandwiches. We’ll fight you for the blackened ono (wahoo), although you could pacify us with the jerk-chicken sandwich on a rosemary roll.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Puʻuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park

One of the most evocative places to connect you with ancient Hawaiʻi, Puʻuhonua o Honaunau combines a seminal historical site with some of the most impressive wildlife-spotting on the island. The tongue-twister name simply means ʻplace of refuge at Honaunau,’ because this park once served as a sanctuary where kapu (taboo)-breakers and warriors could have their lives spared.

CampPhoto/getty images ©

Scan this QR code for opening hours and more information.

Visitor Center & Royal Grounds

The visitor center provides a brochure map with cultural information and a half-mile walking tour encompassing all the major sites. After picking it up, you’ll enter the park in the village-like royal grounds, where Kona aliʻi (chiefs) and their warriors lived. The spiritual atmosphere is enhanced by gently breaking waves and wind-rustled palms. Throughout the grounds are wooden kiʻi (deity images) standing up to 15ft high.

DON’T MISS

Visitor Center

Royal Grounds

Great Wall

Hale o Keawe Heiau

Keoneʻele Cove

1871 Trail

Two-Step

Hale o Keawe Heiau

A reconstruction of the ‘temple on the point of the cove’ is located a few hundred yards past the main park entrance. The original was built around 1650 and contained the bones of 23 chiefs. It was believed that the mana (spiritual essence) of the chiefs remained in their bones and bestowed sanctity on those who entered the grounds. A fishpond, lava tree molds, a hand-carved koa canoe and a few thatched huts and shelters are scattered around here.

Keoneʻele Cove

Keoneʻele Cove was once the royal canoe landing; today it’s a tongue of sand that hooks into the waters (wave to those snorkelers at Two-Step just across the way) and a favorite resting spot for sea turtles.

THE LOOPHOLE

In ancient Hawaiʻi, enemy warriors and violators of the kapu system were punished with death. There was one loophole, however: reaching the sacred ground of a puʻuhonua. To reach the puʻuhonua required swimming in the open ocean, braving currents and sharks. Once inside the sanctuary, priests performed ceremonies to placate the gods. Refugees could then return home to start afresh.

Great Wall

Separating the royal grounds from the puʻuhonua (place of sanctuary), the Great Wall was built around 1550 and is 950ft long, 18ft wide and12ft high. Inside the wall are two older heiau platforms and legendary standing stones – a chief slept on one, and you can supposedly see the concave depression left by his head.

1871 Trail

Back in – you guessed it! – 1871, a section of derelict coastal trail that extended south all the way to Hoʻokena was cleared and opened to the public, re-establishing what had once been a main artery for coastal villages in the region. Today the 1871 Trail crosses wild stretches of South Kona countryside. As you walk along the trail, you’ll be flanked by shallow water extending to the ocean on one side, and on the other archaeological sites that are strictly kapu (forbidden to enter). Natural wonders you’ll see along the way include a collapsed lava tube and a tremendous, if overgrown, holua (lava-sledding course) that aliʻi raced down. Watch out for feral goats. They’re usually benign. Usually.

TOP TIPS

• Bring a lunch; just south of the park’s central village area, an oceanfront palm grove holds one of South Kona’s best picnic areas.

• Swimming is possible around the historical site but can be dicey; judge the surf and entry for yourself, and note that it’s kapu to snorkel here.

• A vehicle entrance costs $20, while pedestrians pay $10 per person (for seven days in the park). Debit or credit cards only.

• The best time to go to Two-Step is during rising tide, when there are more fish. Morning is also always better for undersea wildlife watching.

Snorkeling at Two-Step

Immediately north of the national historical park, concealed within a (usually) placid bay, is a series of jaw-dropping vibrant coral gardens where the reef and marine life seem locked in a permanent race to outstrip each other with the gaudiest color palette. There’s no beach here – snorkelers use a stepped lava ledge beside the boat ramp to access about 10ft of water, which quickly drops to about 25ft. Good-size reef fish and a fine variety of coral are close to shore, while the predatory ‘crown of thorns’ starfish can be seen feasting on live coral polyps, and, every now and then, sea turtles pop by. Cool, freshwater springs seep out of the ground, creating blurry patches in the water. From above it, your only indication of the action is the presence of boats and crowds gathering at the titular two steps.

Hilo & the Hāmākua Coast

RAINFORESTS, ROCKY SHORES AND THUNDEROUS WATERFALLS

The gorgeously green hillsides and wind-ravaged coastline of the east is punctuated by historic sugar towns with bucketloads of faded glory.

Old Mamalahoa Hwy | Famartin, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons ©

Big Island’s wild northeast starts in the capital, the once-thriving sugar town of Hilo, before extending up to the untamed and sacred Waipiʻo Valley. Between these points, rushing waterfalls, pounding surf on black lava beaches and little historic plantation communities await.

Hilo is about as far from the tourist circuit as you can get for a prominent Hawaiian town. It’s not glitzy or attractive, with weatherworn historic buildings, but what it lacks in polished architecture it makes up for in charm. Visitors can delve into a surprising good food scene with an emphasis on local fresh produce, and meet a diverse mix of residents including Hawaiian, Japanese, Filipino, Portuguese and Chinese. Superb educational museums are scattered around town, showcasing Hawaiʻi’s culture and biodiversity, but drive northwest for just a few minutes and things get really wild. Small-scale farms grow cacao, vanilla, tea and all manner of fruit on the slopes of Mauna Kea, and locals cool off at hidden pools next to tumbling cascades. South of town, the opportunities for shore snorkeling are surprising, with a chain of beach parks offering aquamarine waters alive with psychedelic marine life. Road-trippers can cruise the Old Mamalahoa Hwy and Hāmākua Coast for tropical tree-lined single tracks, towering bridges, coastline views and pit stops at pastel-painted plantation towns.

Waipi‘o Valley | Yves Rubin/500px/getty images ©

THE MAIN AREAS

HILO

Vibrant food scene.

HONOMŪ, HAKALAU & LAUPĀHOEHOE

Waterfalls and lush rainforests.

HONOKAʻA

Western-style storefronts.

WAIPIʻO VALLEY

Verdant emerald cliffs.

Find Your Way

Northeast Big Island is a roughly 50-mile slab of scenic road, rainforest and coastline that finishes in the vibrant and uber-local town of Hilo.

Plan Your Time

Wander historical sugar towns, swim in marine-life-rich oceans and clap your eyes on tumbling waterfalls in Big Island’s northeast.

Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden | TheBouj Crew/getty images ©

One Day to Travel Around

Surf at the picturesque enclave of Honoliʻi Beach Park, before exploring magnificent Banyan Dr by bike. Peruse the fruit and art stands at Hilo Farmers Market, and try a heaped bowl of rice and fish at Poke N Sides and a refreshing dessert at Kula Shave Ice. Later search for colorful fish and sea turtles at Richardson Ocean Park.

Two Days to Travel Around

Learn island history at the Lyman Museum, before wandering the Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden. Snap a picture at rushing Rainbow Falls before swimming the Wai‘ale Falls. Head north to ʻAkaka Falls State Park for a towering waterfall surrounded by vines, ferns and sprawling banyan trees. Finish with a white-knuckle ride with Hawaii Zipline Tours.

Seasonal highlights

SPRING

Hilo has festivals galore: May Day Lei Day Festival, Merrie Monarch Festival and King Kamehameha Day, plus the Honoka‘a Western Week.

SUMMER

August is the hottest month of the year. It can get humid but trade winds help balance this – meaning it’s usually warm and pleasant.

FALL

Hilo hosts a big music festival in September, organized by local radio station KWXX, with local and touring musicians on stages and in local venues.

WINTER

The northwest’s colder months bring longer rain showers. It’s perfectly warm, but bring a raincoat.

HILO

ISLAND HISTORY | FORMER SUGAR TOWN | WATERFALLS

Hilo is a charming, easily walkable town with a proud history. It is King Kamehameha’s former home, and when foreigners arrived it turned into a bustling sugar town. When the plantations shut, residents dipped their toes into tourism. But make no mistake, there’s no flashy tourist strip – it’s a real community of Native Hawaiian, Japanese, Filipino, Chinese and Caucasian residents. As Hawaiian towns go, Hilo is on the grittier side. It has survived two tsunamis and has the highest annual rainfall in the USA, but its original weather-washed century-old buildings ooze faded glory and include the oldest original wooden structure in Hawaii. Around 275 days of rain per year helps to fuel the lush surrounding rainforests, rushing waterfalls just minutes out of town, beautiful gardens and a delicious farm-fresh foodie scene.

TOP SIGHTS

1   Lyman Museum

SIGHTS

2   Onekahakaha Beach Park

3   Rainbow Falls

4   Carlsmith Beach Park

5   Honoliʻi Beach Park

6   ʻImiloa Astronomy Center of Hawaiʻi

7   Kealoha Beach Park

8   Panaʻewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens

9   Peʻepeʻe Falls & Boiling Pots

10   Richardson Ocean Park

11   Waiʻolena Beach Park

12   Waiʻuli Beach Park

13   Waiʻuli Falls

SLEEPING

14   Dolphin Bay Hotel

15   Hale Kai Hawaii

EATING

16   Original Big Island Shave Ice

SHOPPING

17   Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Visitor Center

18   Still Life Books & Vinyl

GETTING AROUND

Bike rental makes for an easy and affordable way to get navigate the downtown Hilo area (when it’s not raining). There are four HiBike docking stations in Hilo. A car makes it easy tovisit attractions in the suburbs, but parking in downtown can be problematic, with long waits for spaces. The cheapest way to travel is by bus; services run from Hilo to Kona in the west and around town for a couple of dollars.

TOP TIP

Don’t let Hilo’s rain dissuade you. It comes in short bursts in the summer, with longer downpours in the winter – do as the locals do and carry a rain jacket or umbrella. Many of Hilo’s sights, including museums, waterfalls and botanical gardens, are arguably better in the rain.

Local Artisans & Community Vibes

Hit up the Hilo Farmers Market

All parts of the community converge at the vibrant Hilo Farmers Market on one side of the road (selling all manners of tropical delights like rambutan, noni and papaya), and an artisanal market with locally made gifts on the other side. Wednesday and Saturday are bustling market days, with dozens of vendors and live music, but a scattering of traders can always be found here. Look out for fabulous pop-up food trucks such as Ou’s Thai Food, here on main market days. Unique local arts and crafts include the likes of Barely Maps, with striking graphic interpretations of Hawaii places and beyond. Poke N Sides and Kula Shave Ice, meanwhile, are winners in the poke and icy desserts categories on Big Island.

Big Island Night Sky

How the stars influence past and present

On the University of Hawaii Hilo campus, inside an impressive building with conical roofs, you’ll find the $28 million ʻImiloa Astronomy Center of Hawaiʻi, a museum and planetarium complex. Here you can see exhibits on how we’ve learned from the stars and night sky throughout history, from ancient Polynesian ocean voyaging to the modern astronomy operations on Mauna Kea. Several interactive exhibits include digital voyages and spinning globes, and a planetarium show is included in the admission fee. Check the website for the current shows such as animations for children on rogue planets, moons, oceanic worlds and super-Earths.

Hilo Forever Changed

Surviving two natural disasters

Two significant tsunamis have shaped the town of Hilo, and the informative Pacific Tsunami Museum is dedicated to exploring why these and other awesome powers of nature happen. The museum recounts the shocking tales of what happened to the local community during and after these two tidal waves (in 1946 and 1960), with powerful personal stories and photos about the strength of the human spirit, and how a devastating event like this changes a community like Hilo. Display boards also inform visitors about the most lethal tsunami to ever occur, on Boxing Day 2004, hitting Thailand, Sri Lanka and India and killing more than 230,000 people.

Visitors can learn the warning signs and what to do in the event of a tsunami, plus why, crucially, you should never stand and watch a tsunami. Kids will love creating their own tidal wave, by dropping a weight into a display case filled with water, and watching the displacement create a huge surge, powerful enough to knock over a house on land. Inquisitive minds can also pick up an activity book and complete a quiz to see if they’re prepared for a potential natural disaster. Passionate museum staff are on hand to offer extra tsunami knowledge.

KING KAMEHAMEHA STATUE

Inside the pristine and quiet Wailoa River State Recreation Area, stands a 14ft bronze statue of King Kamehameha who ‘united’ the Hawaiian Islands and once lived in Hilo. Hilo also served as his first official capitol. The $125,000 statue was sculpted in Italy in 1963, but wasn’t actually planned for this spot. It was originally commissioned by Kaua‘i’s Princeville Corporation, and intended for their exclusive luxury resort, but this was rejected by island locals. While Kamehameha is revered on Big Island, he doesn’t get the same reception on Kaua‘i, which is the only island he failed to conquer during his campaign to rule over Hawaii. Instead, a peaceful treaty was signed.

DRINKING IN HILO

Ola Brew: Creative local crafts like liliko‘i lime milkshake IPA, plus hard juice, cider, tea and seltzer in a modern taproom.

Hilo Brewing Company: No-frills tasting room serving Volcano Red and Mauna Kea Pale beers straight from the source.

Hilo Bottle Shop: Superb selection of Big Island craft brews, Hawaii brews and curious international imports at reasonable prices.

Japanese Immigration Story

Big Island’s Japanese immigration history

Hidden off Kanoelehua Ave, in an unassuming white and brown building, is the Hawaii Japanese Center, a fascinating exhibit about the Japanese immigrant community of Big Island. Around 30% of the island’s population is Asian, many of whom arrived from 1885 as contract laborers for sugar plantations. Considered exhibitions recount how the Japanese community arrived and how they’ve shaped the culture – including the food scene with must-visit hole-in-the-wall joints like Two Ladies Kitchen (serving authentic handmade mochi desserts in downtown Hilo) to hugely influential local businesses including chocolate manufacturer Big Island Candies.

Other exhibits are on plantation workers’ clothes, historic local sports teams (like the Waiakea Pirates, which famously played a team with guest star Babe Ruth in 1933 and won), and how early Japanese immigrant families lived, with a large selection of vintage furniture and children’s toys on show. There are early copies of the Kona Echo paper, created by Dr Harvey Saburo Hayashi in 1897, and the original 1884 Horii Myriagraph printing press used to create editions, plus traditional clothing and artwork. The adjacent room hosts local Japanese-inspired exhibitions. Stop by the good gift shop at the exit for textiles and Japan-inspired crafts, plus vintage dishware at reasonable prices.

Liliʻuokalani Park | Billy McDonald/shutterstock ©

JAPANESE ARCHITECTURE TOUR

Arnold Hiura, Executive Director of the Hawaii Japanese Center (@jcchawaii), offers three places to visit.

S Hata Building

This striking building in downtown Hilo was envisioned by Japanese businessman Hata Sadanosuke in 1912. It’s a reminder that immigrants made significant contributions to local commercial life.

Hāmākua Jodo Mission

Japanese immigrants built the first sanctioned Buddhist temple in Hawaii in 1896 on Kalopa Rd on the Hāmākua Coast. It’s also the site of the Katsu Goto memorial site, commemorating a human rights campaigner lynched by plantation owners.

Liliʻuokalani Park

Donated by Queen Liliʻuokalani, this 1919 park was designed as a tribute to Big Island Japanese immigrants.

BREAKFAST & COFFEE IN HILO

Booch Bar: Healthy brekkies, from omelets to smoothie bowls, in a colorful downtown cafe. $

Puna Chocolate Company & Cafe: Kona coffee and espressos, plus a selection of mochas with rich dark chocolate. $

Nector Cafe Two sleek modern Hilo counter joints serving espresso drinks, smoothies and toasties. $

Practice Your Diving Skills

Diving and lap pool

For a bracing cold-water swim in a retro indoor free community pool, head to the huge Olympic-size Kawamoto Swim Stadium, a couple of blocks south of Banyan Dr. There’s are also 1m springboards, plus 3m, 5m, 7m and 10m diving platforms. While visitors may be tempted to cliff-jump around the island, come here first to safely learn how to catch air with the local Hilo HI-Diving Club, which runs springboard sessions on weekday afternoons and Saturday mornings. Lifeguards may test swimming ability before visitors can enter the pool.

SIGHTS

1   Liliʻuokalani Park

2   Hawaii Japanese Center

3   Hilo Bayfront Beach Park

4   King Kamehameha Statue

5   Mokuola

6   Reeds Bay Beach Park

7   Tsunami Memorial Clock

8   Wailoa River State Recreation Area

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

9   Hilo Ocean Adventures

10   Kawamoto Swim Stadium

SLEEPING

11   SCP Hilo Hotel

EATING

12   Brain Freeze Shave Ice

13   Hilo Bay Cafe

14   Hilo Burger Joint

15   Suisan Fish Market

16   Sweet Cane Cafe

17   Takenoko Sushi

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

18   Hilo Brewing Company

19   Ola Brew

ENTERTAINMENT

20   Merrie Monarch Festival

SHOPPING

21   Basically Books

22   Big Island Candies

BEST HILO SHAVE ICE

Kula Shave Ice: You can’t get better than this artisanal shave ice, made with organically grown local fruit and organic cane sugar.

Original Big Island Shave Ice: Iconic shave ice since 1957 with some two dozen colorful tropical toppings; it’s served at the Hilo outpost of Kai Store.

Brain Freeze Shave Ice: Classic shave ice, in rainbow-colored fruity flavors served in a kitsch old-school joint. Sugar-free options too.

Chasing Waterfalls

Cascades to view and swim in

Moments from downtown Hilo several waterfalls plunge along the Wailuku River, Hawaii’s second-longest river at 18 miles. This tributary dates back more than 10,000 years and flows along the lava lines where Mount Kea and Mount Loa meet.

Start with the free 80ft plunging Rainbow Falls, maintained by Hawaii State Parks. The falls are a stone’s throw from a parking lot, and an easy-access lookout platform offers a direct view of the cascade surrounded by lush rainforest as it pours into a turquoise pool. The best angle from which to see the rainbow, however, is at the first railing on the way to the platform; it appears in the mist at the bottom of the falls when the sun hits it in the morning, on sunny days. (Waiānuenue, ‘rainbow seen in water,’ is the Hawaiian name for these falls.) During a drought or on overcast and rainy days, you’ll likely be outta luck for rainbow spotting. A small walk left of the cascade up a flight of stairs offers a view from the top of the falls; peek into the undergrowth on the way up for some magnificent banyan trees, complete with spindly roots.

Two miles up the road from Rainbow Falls is Boiling Pots, with a series of cascades of various sizes, including Peʻepeʻe Falls, plunging into a cauldron-like pool, which bubbles and fizzes during and after big storms. It looks inviting, but don’t attempt to take a dip here – this spot is dangerous. Under the water are several lava flow tunnels, and many people have died while attempting to swim in these waters.

If you want to get wet, head further upstream to the double Waiʻale Falls. Park across the bridge on Waianuenue Ave, and skip the smaller lower falls for the short 0.3-mile trail next to the river bank, through overgrown jungle, which leads to a huge deep pool, a pebbly beach and a plunging 55ft waterfall. Be aware that although this is a popular swimming spot, there are no lifeguards and the trail is unmaintained. The area can be prone to flash floods – check the weather forecast before you visit, and swim at your own risk.

LIVE MUSIC IN HILO

Kirk Puuohau-Pummill, co-owner of Still Life Books Vinyl & Art in Hilo, shares his favorite places to listen to live music in Hilo.

Kukuau Studio

Home to the Monday Night Jazz Jam, an entertainment staple in east Hawaii. It recently celebrated its 365th Monday of community Jazz. @kukuaustudio

Hilo Town Tavern

Casual bar setting in central downtown, with regular live acts, including Hawaiian musicians, plus a great beer list. @hilotowntavern

Still Life Books Vinyl & Art

Hosts regular live poetry slam nights and notably has the best-curated selection of vinyl and books on the Big Island. stillifebooksvinylart.com

STAYING IN HILO

SCP Hilo Hotel: Hilo’s best adventure base with motel-turned-boutique rooms, plus free paddleboards, bike rental and yoga at the pool. $$

Dolphin Bay Hotel: Mid-size hotel with a big aloha welcome and spotless apartment-like accommodations with kitchens. $$

Hale Kai Hawaii: B&B with breezy sea views near Honoliʻi Beach Park, with one- to three-bedroom condos with kitchens. $$

Hawaiian Ecosystems

Family-friendly nature center

Inside the century-old Koehnen Building, the welcoming and free Mokupāpapa Discovery Center offers exhibits on natural science and the surrounding marine life and history around the northwestern Hawaiian Islands – ideal for families during rain showers. It’s filled with all sorts of interpretive boards in Hawaiian and English, including on how coral reefs are formed; the laysan albatross (99.7% of which live in the northwestern Hawaiian Islands); and endangered Hawaiian monk seals (of which there are 1500 left in the wild) and tiger sharks (which favor the shallow waters around the archipelago).

The showpiece, however, is a giant 3500-gallon saltwater aquarium with various species collected from the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument, the largest marine protected area in the world, home to 7000 marine species. See some of them in the giant tank, including Hawaiian yellow anthias, stripy orange and white opae ula shrimp and bandit angelfish, plus the orange margin butterflyfish, which live nowhere else on Earth.

On the 2nd floor are exhibits on ancient voyaging, with many historic artifacts used at sea.

Merrie Monarch Festival | Karen Kasmauski/getty images ©

BEST WATER-SPORT OUTFITTERS

Hulakai Hawaii

For stand-up paddleboard, bodyboard, surfboard and snorkel rental, plus other beach equipment (chairs, umbrellas, lifejackets). It also runs organized tours.

Hilo Ocean Adventures

Friendly family-run center renting out diving gear, snorkels, foamie surfboards, kayaks and paddleboards. Offers dive excursions (from shore or boat) to tropical reefs and runs PADI courses.

Bayfront Boards

Surf shop opposite downtown Hilo’s Bayfront surf spot. Friendly advice on surf spot hazards. Sells gear and rents a limited number of surfboards.

SHOPPING IN HILO

Locavore Store: Selling 100% locally grown or made food products, this tidy little market has most things you need.

Sig Zane Designs: Artist Sig Zane designs upscale Hawaiian shirts on quality cotton fabrics, with rich colors and Hawaiian flora.

Hawaiian Force: A Hawaiian-owned store selling original shirts with bold patterns, made with aloha and cultural awareness.

Riding Waves

Best beach parks for surfing

Hilo’s beaches aren’t the postcard-perfect white sandy beaches many imagine when visiting Hawaii. They’re rugged with black sand (if there’s sand at all) and dotted with volcanic rocks. However, the rocks often form natural break walls for safe swimming and marine life viewing.

Kaipalaoa Landing Park (known as Bayfront by locals), recognizable by its mini white lighthouse, sits at the edge of the Waiuku River mouth, meaning the water is much murkier than elsewhere. This is a popular break for local intermediate surfers, but it’s not a beginners’ spot; locals can be protective of their break. Inside, waves break onto rocks, so paddle out to the right of the lighthouse. Bayfront Boards, opposite the park, rents out a small selection of boards.

Two miles north of downtown Hilo is Honoliʻi Beach Park, a picturesque tropical enclave with lifeguards, showers and some of the best waves in the area. It sits at the mouth of the Honoliʻi Stream, and currents can be strong – check conditions before paddling out. Hilo Bayfront Beach is the big sprawling black sandy beach, popular with locals and lined with canoe clubs. Further east is Reeds Bay Beach Park.

Swimming with the Fish

Beach parks for snorkeling

If you want to go snorkeling, head south, where the water turns glassy and turquoise. The shallow and crystal-clear waters of Onekahakaha Beach Park are protected from tumultuous seas by a rock wall, and have some of the safest around, including a kids’ ‘baby beach,’ with grassy lawns and lifeguards. Rocky Carlsmith Beach Park offers a safe lagoon-like swimming and snorkeling area thanks to a protective reef, and is usually not as crowded.

Richardson Ocean Park is another draw for families, due to the great snorkeling and frequent sightings of green sea turtles, with healthy coral and lots of marine life (such as zebra moray, butterflyfish and squid). There’s a little patch of black sand, grassy nooks and rock ponds, plus lifeguards, restrooms, showers and picnic areas.

The adjoining Waiʻolena and Waiʻuli Beach Parks (also known as Leleiwi Beach Park) are a hot spot for marine life, with a good shore-entry dive spot (it’s a tricky entry – not suitable for novice snorkelers or divers; local dive shops can offer advice). The parks have shaded pavilions for picnics. When swimming in rocky pools be aware of needle-sharp wana (sea urchins) underfoot. Ideally, avoid putting your feet down when snorkeling altogether (to protect the reef) and wear wetsuit booties (to protect the feet).

HILO FESTIVALS

Merrie Monarch Festival

On Easter week, the annual Merrie Monarch Festival, named for King David Kalākaua, who restored Hawaiian traditions, is a huge hula celebration. Competitions take place at Edith Kanakaole Tennis Stadium. Book tickets and accommodations months in advance.

May Day Lei Day Festival

Hawaii celebrates Lei Day, on the first day of May, by exhibiting flowers (Big Island’s is the red lehua blossom of the ʻōhiʻa tree). Hilo’s Kalākaua Park has lei-making demonstrations, music and hula.

KWXX Ho‘olaule‘a

Local radio station KWXX (94.7FM in Hilo) hosts east Hawaii’s biggest music festival every fall/winter, with 20,000 attendees and several Bayfront stages, and local venues hosting reggae, country, rock and pop acts.

POKE & SUSHI IN HILO

Ebisuya Sushi: Cozy hole-in-the-wall joint serving great-value (but not write-home-about) sushi. $

Takenoko Sushi: Book months in advance for this eight-seat bar, which some locals call ‘life changing.’ $$$

Dragon Kitchen Sushi: Good-priced poke and sushi served no-frills cafeteria-style on paper plates. $

Hilo’s Retro Heart

A night at the theater

Hilo’s historic Palace Theater, dating back to 1925, with its retro facade and ticket office, was the grandest spot in town when it opened as a palace of silent movies. Unlike other local theaters, the Davis & Fishbourne–designed place (built entirely of redwood) survived two tsunamis. It’s now the epicenter of Hilo’s cultural offerings. Visitors can have an atmospheric and retro night at the theater watching a Broadway musical or art-house film, or a traditional silent movie (accompanied by the original evocative house organ), plus music and dance concerts – all inside its striking beaux arts–style auditorium. Booking ahead is essential.

SIGHTS

1   Hilo Farmers Market

2   Pacific Tsunami Museum

3   Kalakaua Park

4   Mokupāpapa Discovery Center

5   S Hata Building

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

6   Bayfront Boards

7   Big Island Climbing

8   Hulakai Hawaii

9   Kukuau Studio

EATING

10   Booch Bar

Café Pesto (see 6)

Dragon Kitchen Sushi (see 1)

11   Ebisuya Sushi

12   Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill

Kula Shave Ice (see 14)

Mo’s Fish & Chips (see 26)

13   Pineapples

14   Poke N Sides

15   Puna Chocolate Company & Cafe

16   Saucy Dogs

17   Two Ladies Kitchen

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

18   Hilo Town Tavern

19   Nector Cafe

ENTERTAINMENT

20   KWXX Ho’olaule’a

21   Palace Theater

SHOPPING

22   Basically Books

23   Big Island BookBuyers

24   Hawaiian Force

25   Locavore Store

26   Makani’s Magic Pineapple Shack

27   Sig Zane Designs

28   Sugar Coast Candy

29   Turn the Page

Big Island Climbing

Indoor thrill seeking

Big Island’s first climbing gym in downtown Hilo with 700 sq ft of bouldering space on 14ft-high walls is the ideal physical activity for restless children (and adults) on a rainy afternoon (Hilo has six times more rainfall than London). Regular clinics offer an introduction to climbing and include how to boulder and fall safely on padded floors without ropes. Family members can watch from an observation deck.

CHOCOLATE FARM TOUR

Learn the history and process of how Hawaiian chocolate is made from tree to bar at the extraordinary and scenic Hāmākua Chocolate Farm, 6 miles north of downtown Hilo in lush Papaikou. Then try making it, before devouring your creations and other chocolate samples from around Hawaii and the world. A Californian-Australian couple started planting cacao and a good number of exotic fruit and spice trees here on their 6.5 acres of land, and now produce more than a dozen varieties of chocolate. Also on offer are tours, workshops and tastings, and monthly harvest parties, plus farm stays in eco rooms with garden and sea views.

Wailoa Center & Wailoa River State Recreation Area

Free art gallery and relaxing space

Wailoa Center, a free state-run gallery and Hawai‘i Island’s largest venue for local and international artists, can be found in the Wailoa River State Recreation Area. It hosts several exhibitions a year, from those on Hawaiian landscapes and anime, manga and urban art to Hawaii surrealists and interpretations of the natural world.

After taking in an exhibition, head outdoors to the surrounding recreation area, an attraction in itself, with a well-kept quiet park, grassy lawns for a picnic, and footbridges crossing the Wailoa River. Memorials play tribute to those who lost their lives in the Vietnam War and in the 1946 tsunami. It’s also the site of the 14ft Italian-made bronze King Kamehameha Statue.

A Rainforest Zoo

Wildlife in lush surrounds

Panaʻewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens is the only zoo in the US located inside a rainforest – and it’s entirely free and glistens after the rain. Children love exploring the 12 acres of paved pathways, which lead to alligators, tropical birds, a two-toed sloth, marmosets, a giant anteater, monkeys, frogs and a pair of Bengal tigers – an orange one named Sriracha and a white one named Tzatziki. These are just some of the 80 species at the zoo. On Saturdays, guests can go giddy at the cute overload at the petting zoo – offering hands-on encounters with a miniature horse, donkey and pigs, plus chickens, guinea pigs, rabbits and chinchillas. Ask about the snapper, snake and alligator feeding sessions, which happen regularly at various times.

FAST FOOD IN HILO

Hilo Burger Joint: Cozy pub-turned burger joint with 30 styles of burgers; try the Hilo Bay Burger with goat cheese and grilled beets. $

Saucy Dogs: Indie hot dog counter joint, with sausages piled high. The Aloha dog comes with pineapples and teri mayo. $

Mo’s Fish & Chips: Burgers, steaks, chowder and, of course, classic (and fresh) fish and chips. Enough said. $

Sweet Treats

Get a sugar high

As a former sugar town, it comes as no surprise that Hilo has a collective sweet tooth, and numerous handcrafted specialties can be tried around town.

Big Island Candies was established in 1977 by Japanese immigrants, who started with just a chocolate melter and a shrink-wrap machine. Husband-and-wife-team Allan and Irma Ikawa created chocolates and cookies using 100% Hawaii-grown macadamia nuts. Today their enormous showroom factory and shop in Hilo offers the chance to peer through a windowed wall and watch saliva-inducing sweet creations being made, from signature chocolate-dipped shortbreads and brownies to bars of chocolate macadamia nut crunch, Hawaiian red chili toffee and many more. The gift shop is stuffed with Big Island gifts and toys, and a snack bar serves savory mac-nut salads and sandwiches.

Meanwhile, the Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Visitor Center tells the story of how this historic mac-nut producer, dating to 1949, followed suit and got into candy making in the 1980s – with chocolate-covered nuts. Samples are generous for visitors at the plantation and working factory, while the gift shop sells packaged nuts at reasonable prices, plus exotic-flavored ice cream. Don’t leave without a self-guided nature walk through the orchard’s fruit trees; guests are allowed to take home fallen fruits, and bounties might include starfruit, pineapples or breadfruit. Look out for Hawaiian goose, zebra dove and java sparrows among other birds in the tranquil grounds.

In downtown proper, there are numerous sweet treats to sample, from the seriously good ube (purple yam) soft-serve ice cream at Makani’s Magic Pineapple Shack to the rich chocolate incarnations at the Puna Chocolate Company & Cafe, which uses 100% Hawaii-grown cacao; the bourbon caramel turtles are to die for. Moonstruck Patisserie is the real deal for European-style pastries and cakes; it’s headed up by pastry chef Jackie Tan-DeWitt, who makes everything fresh daily, from fruit tarts to cheesecakes.

Mochi fans can do no better than the handcrafted rice-based Japanese sweets at hole-in-the-wall joint Two Ladies Kitchen, which usually has a line out the door for its rainbow-colored treats with island-inspired flavors such as coconut, liliko‘i (passionfruit) or plum flower, plus the signature strawberry flavor, which consistently gets rave reviews.

For kids, Sugar Coast Candy is where they will lose their minds. This old-fashioned Willy Wonka–style shop has barrels of taffy and jars of nostalgic favorites, and samples are plentiful.

HILO’S BEST BOOKSTORES

Still Life Books & Vinyl

It’s worth the extra walk slightly north of downtown Hilo for hand-selected used books and vinyl, including rare finds.

Basically Books

The place for Hawaii-specialty books on everything from sealife and surfing to cooking and history, plus an excellent selection of maps and travel guides, gifts, toys and souvenirs.

Big Island BookBuyers

New and used books spanning the gamut of subjects, including fiction, award-winning kids’ books, sports, true crime and the occult, plus Hawaiian new and used.

Turn the Page

Bright and airy bookstore with a great vibe and reading nooks to hang out in while selecting a book. Packed shelves contain books on almost every subject. Ad-hoc jam and open-mic nights too.

ISLAND INSPIRED EATING IN HILO

Sweet Cane Cafe: Casual farm-to-table joint with locally sourced meat-free health food such as mac nut pesto sandwiches. $$

Café Pesto: Asian-Hawaiian fusion (like Korean garlic bread) in a large dining room in a historic downtown building. $$

Pineapples Popular open-air dining room with island-inspired plates, such as coconut-crusted fish and macadamia chicken. $

A Little Further Afield

Take a day trip to Puna

Between Hilo and Volcano a series of former sugar plantations and mini-villages blend together in a sea of forested sameness. The main town, Keaʻau, is not much more than a cluster of gas stations and stores. Past Keaʻau toward Pāhoa, however, burgeoning residential subdivisions have transformed Puna into sprawling suburbs and there are plenty of worthy natural diversions.

If you believe paradise is sweetest when earned, start with a trek out to pristine Hā‘ena Beach in a protected cove. Public access is via a demanding 2.5-mile muddy, jungly hike down the Puna Trail. For the effort you’ll likely have this slice of perfection to yourself. Best enjoyed at low tide.

In the heart of Puna, Pāhoa itself has has an unkempt bohemian edge with a ramshackle main street, complete with covered wooden sidewalks and peeling paint. The popular Makuʻu Farmers Market takes place here every Sunday morning. Enjoy live music while sampling fresh Hawaiian, Mexican and Thai grinds.

Not far from here is the Kīlauea Caverns of Fire, where you can spelunk through the world’s longest lava tube system, the 41-mile long Kazumura Cave system. It’s an impressive spelunking adventure through 500-year-old lava-carved tunnels that sparkle and impress.

Further on, the rocky, picturesque Pohoiki Beach (Isaac Hale Beach Park) was once a popular local surf spot, but thanks to the 2018 lower Puna eruption, what was once one of the island’s top breaks is now a dramatic black-sand beach. Waters here are generally too rough for swimming, so instead head for beautiful black-sand Kehena Beach, tucked beneath a cliff. If any place captures the vibe of Puna, this is it.

Puna | Photos by By Deb Alperin/getty images ©

EATING IN PUNA

Pāhoa Fresh Fish

The battered and fried ono and mahimahi (and salmon, ahi or cod) are perfectly crispy.

Pele’s Kitchen

Fat pancakes, flavorful scrambles or hearty French toast, all made from scratch. Pair with a Puna Exotic Fruit Sampler. In Pāhoa.

Tin Shack Bakery

Where Puna gets its morning coffee and breakfast bagels. All of Puna. At the same time.

Uncle Robert’s Awa Bar & Farmers Market

The place to be on a Wednesday night. Local live music gets you dancing, while artisans and farm-fresh food aplenty keep you satiated.

WALKING TOUR

Historic Hilo

Polynesians settled the Hilo area around 1100, and were followed centuries later by Christian missionaries, whalers and then an influx of immigrants who worked on plantations between 1850 and 1900. Sugar was the biggest industry for decades. When the plantations closed, Hilo made a tourism push. On this easy 1.2-mile walking tour you’ll see several galleries and museums housed in some historic buildings.

Pacific Tsunami Museum | Vacclav/Shutterstock ©

1 S Hata Building

Built by a Japanese businessman in 1912, the S Hata has a distinctive Renaissance revival style. A row of arched windows bordered with red and blue paint remain on the 2nd floor. The 1st floor contains several independent shops, plus the very good Café Pesto.

The Walk: Stroll left around the corner some 500ft along Furneaux Lane to the A.O.F. Building.

2 A.O.F. Building

Dating to 1925, the A.O.F Building was named for the Ancient Order of Foresters, a friendly society or brotherhood that invested the funds of its members (King Kalākaua was a member). The striking building with its decorative columns and balcony survived two tsunamis and now houses Perfect Harmony gifts and tea shop.

The Walk: Head north on Keawe St and turn right on Haili St to the Palace Theater.

3 Palace Theater

Dating to 1925, Hilo’s cultural hub beams with resplendent original features, including a beaux arts–style auditorium and a refurbished organ (still used for silent movie screenings).

The Walk: Go west up the hill on Haili St for a third of a mile to Mission House.

4 Mission House

Hawaii’s oldest remaining wooden structure, a two-story plantation-style house, dates to 1839. The original layout has been painstakingly renovated with rich wood floors and antique furniture. The terrific Lyman Museum next door is not to missed; it offers tours of the house.

The Walk: Turn left at the Lyman Museum on Kapiolani St and turn right on Waianuenue Ave before stopping at Hilo Public Library.

5 The Naha Stone

Legend holds that the person who could move this 3.5-ton stone would be strong enough to defeat (and unite) the Hawaiian Islands. The revered King Kamehameha did exactly this when he was in his 20s, and the prophecy was set.

The Walk: Head east on Waianuenue Ave for 1000ft to the next stop.

6 Kaikodo Building

Dating to 1908 and built with then-high-tech ‘fireproof’ steel beams on reinforced concrete, this was home to Hilo’s first Masonic Lodge, before it became a bank. It’s now Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill, but a huge bank vault remains inside the restaurant

The Walk: Wander right on Keawe St before turning left on Kalakaua St to reach the Pacific Tsunami Museum.

7 Pacific Tsunami Museum

The Bishop National Bank building – a solid hunk of cast stone and reinforced concrete with an art deco edifice and fluted columns (designed by Hawaiian architect Charles W Dickey) – may not be the prettiest place in Hilo, but it sure does its job. It was built to withstand great force in 1930 and has survived two tsunamis, despite being in their direct path on the beachfront. There’s no better place for the Pacific Tsunami Museum to be located.

CYCLING TOUR

Ride Banyan Drive

This leisurely 2-mile bike ride along the Hilo Walk of Fame passes distinctive 50 banyan trees (many of which were planted by famous authors, local Hawaiians and celebrities). You’ll ride under the canopy of trees, with aerial roots and branches draping down toward the road. Dating to 1933, they survived both tsunamis and continue to morph and change their twisted shapes and root formations.

Banyan tree | Matt Anderson Photography/getty images ©

1 Reeds Bay Beach Park

Rent a bike at Big Pacific Wheels or via HiBike, Hawaii’s bike-sharing scheme. Start at Reeds Bay Beach Park on the southeastern side of Banyan Dr, a lovely hangout spot with grassy nooks and picnic benches overlooking a calm water enclave good for paddleboarding. You could fill your belly first with diner fare at the retro Coconut Grill.

The Route: Begin cycling counter-clockwise along Banyan Dr.

2 Trees Glorious Trees

Cycle under the atmospheric canopy of sprawling prop roots, which dangle toward the road almost touching cyclists as they pass. Stop to read the plaques on trees planted by musician Louis Armstrong, baseball legend George Herman ‘Babe’ Ruth and adventurer Amelia Earhart.

Detour: Hula Grill, inside the Grand Naniloa Hotel, serves cocktails overlooking the bay. To the right of the lobby, visitors can book a waterfall or Mauna Kea stargazing tour with recommended outfitter KapohoKine Adventures.

The Route: Continue on Banyan Dr and take the 250ft footbridge to Coconut Island off Kelipio Pl.

3 Mokuola

Mokuola, commonly called Coconut Island, is a tranquil county park with picnic tables and beaches for swimming, but it was once a residential area named Waiakea Town. Tragedy struck in 1960 when a tsunami producing waves almost as high as palm trees crashed over the island destroying residential houses. Luckily residents evacuated in time.

The Route: Cross back over the bridge then dock/lock your bike to explore the neighboring Liliʻuokalani Park.

4 Liliʻuokalani Park

Possibly Hilo’s most beautiful green spot, these sprawling 24-acre Japanese gardens were built as a tribute to immigrants who worked in the sugar industry. The charming footbridges, rock gardens, pagodas, statues and ornamental ponds are free to wander.

The Route: For ocean views, take the back road along Liniwai St toward Hilo Bay Cafe and Suisan Fish Market.

5 Hilo Bay Cafe

Don’t miss a meal at the Hilo Bay Cafe, serving uber-fresh sashimi with delicious yuzu sauce, creative sushi rolls and crispy salads in a smart modern dining room with views over the bay. Or get a heaped bowl of mouthwatering takeout poke from Suisan Fish Market to enjoy at Lili‘uokalani Park.

The Route: Finish the loop by turning left along Kamehameha Ave, at the mouth of the Wailoa Boat Harbour.

6 Tsunami Clock of Doom

Traveling east along Kamehameha Ave stop at this historic clock face, which once told the time at the Waiakea School. It now stands here, hands frozen in time, at 1:04am, marking the early morning tsunami that decimated Hilo in 1960, killing 61 people.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Lyman Museum

The Lyman Museum is the only Big Island museum dedicated to Hawaiian history, telling the story through the natural world and its inhabitants. It was envisioned by the relatives of New England missionaries David and Sarah Lyman who lived in Mission House next door in what is now the oldest remaining wooden structure in Hawaii.

Russ Bishop/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Reserve your museum entry and Mission House tour online.

Earth Heritage Gallery

In this gallery you’ll walk through a lava tube with displays of all the different types of lava forms on Big Island, from lava stalactites and lava skin to lava folds, lava bombs and lava tree mold. Kids will love exploring the seriously impressive tropical shell collection dating back to the early 19th century, a thousand of which are native to Hawaii and found nowhere else in the world. Pull open drawers lined with the spikey, knobbly, colorful, shiny former homes of mollusks. Next to the shells is an equally astounding mineral, crystal and gemstone collection with hundreds of items arranged by their raw shapes atop hexagonal display columns. There’s turquoise smithsonite, deep purple amethyst and pink quarts, plus green fluorite and orange grossular and an extremely rare orlymanite discovered in South Africa – the only specimen of its kind found so far. Educational exhibits explain the geological makeup of Big Island, the youngest island in Hawaii’s chain, which was formed by volcanoes, creating unique habitats – mountain alpine, subalpine, montane and rainforest, plus beach and reefs – collectively home to hundreds of native species.

DON’T MISS

Walk through a ‘lava tube’

Glow-in-the-dark minerals

Hula dance moves

Music dating to the 1800s

Traditional Hawaiian jewelry

King Kamehameha history

Island Heritage Gallery

The Lyman Museum’s 2nd floor is dedicated to the people of Hawaii and their culture, from the food brought by Polynesian settlers to Hawaii’s great ocean voyages. Exhibits showcase early materials used such as stone tools, woodwork, and kapa fabric made of tree bark (used to make clothing and bedding). A section on Hawaii’s monarchs tells the story of the kings and queens who ruled the islands, followed by European, American and Asian immigrants. Hawaii’s landscape and culture was severely altered during the plantation era of Hawaii, when the public education system was Americanized and English was adopted as the common language. Today it is one of the most ethnically diverse states in the US, and personal stories from locals shed light on the island’s unique population.

Mission House | wwing/getty images ©

LYMAN MUSEUM GIFT SHOP

Stop here to avoid the replicas and fake Hawaiian crafts often found in tourist shops. It has several carefully curated modern pieces by local artisans who receive the proceeds. Find jewelry and fabrics, plus history books by local authors and traditional music CDs by local artists.

Mission House

Next to the museum is the oldest remaining wooden structure (1839) in the state of Hawaii, which survived an earthquake (estimated magnitude 8 on the Richter scale) in 1868. The striking two-floor, veranda-wrapped white and green house was built by missionaries David and Sarah Lyman, who traveled from New England to Hawaii in 1832. The missionaries hosted Hawaiian royalty and dignitaries, plus explorers and writers Isabella Bird and Mark Twain. Tours run three times a day through the property’s fabled rooms, complete with original Douglas fir floors and antique furniture made at the Hilo boarding school, plus tools and other household items owned by the couple, who lived without electricity or running water. Interestingly, the house wasn’t built in its present location – it was moved from Haili Street after being slated for demolition, and restored to its original configuration in 2010.

HIGH ALPINE SPECIES

• The Lyman Museum shines a light on the rare plants and species that grow naturally at high altitudes in Hawaii on the top of Haleakala (10,023ft) in Maui and on the flanks of Mauna Loa (13,681ft) on Big Island. Silverswords, for example, have silvery hairs to protect against solar radiation and can survive for long periods without moisture, while critters that have evolved to live in harsh climates include the wekiu bug, endemic to the summit of Mauna Loa, which has a heat-absorbing body and blood that doesn’t freeze. It survives by feeding off insects blown in by the wind.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden

At this 17-acre living museum, some 2500 plant species, hailing from tropical and subtropical regions, line a magnificent 1.25-mile walking trail that descends deep into a thick rainforest. Stop for orchids, butterflies, exotic fruit, waterfalls and ocean views along the accessible path and learn about the island’s extraordinary biodiversity.

Roman Khomlyak/shutterstock ©

Plan your visit in advance with a free downloadable map.

Descend into the Rainforest

Enter the jungle on an atmospheric raised boardwalk dropping around 100ft over 500ft, with tropical trees and ferns all around. Wear hiking boots, especially in wet weather. Stop at the Founders Beginnings Board to learn about Dan Lukenhouse, who came from California and tirelessly cleared a path by hand through this almost impenetrable jungle filled with invasive species, carefully saving valuable plants and trees along the way. He made it his mission to preserve the jungle forever, collecting thousands of plants native to Hawaii and beyond, some of which are now extinct in the wild.

The boardwalk leads to the Palm Jungle Trail, where numerous coconut palms soar some 80ft in the air. Healthy trees can produce more than 100 coconuts in a harvest. There are also Pelagodoxa henryana, with big wide correlated leaves, originally native to French Polynesia; Verschaffeltia splendida from the Seychelles; and very tall Pigafetta trees from New Guinea. Finish the trail section at the trickling twin Onomea Waterfalls, surrounded by emerald moss and fern-covered rocks. Don’t miss the hand-carved totem of the Hawaiian god Ku a little further downstream.

DON’T MISS

Palm Jungle Trail

Orchard Garden

Blowhole Cove

Torch Ginger Trail

Onomea Waterfalls

Tiki carvings

Twin Rock

Hyper-Real Flowers

After visiting the Torch Ginger Trail and Orchid Garden, kids will never think gardens are boring again – these are home to some seriously vibrant plants, so vivid and wacky they could have been plucked from a fantasy flick. The first section has dozens of showy pink flowers, including giant lau lau, with bulbous hanging rose-flavored fruits, and the lipstick heliconia with its stunning pointy red stems, plus clusters of red and green tomato-shaped Piperaceae (pepper plants) and deep red Rubiaceae (wild poinsettia). These are mixed in with other curious flora such as the distinctive Buddha belly bamboo with its bulging internodes, and the dainty butterfly wing-like petals of the yellow walking iris. The Orchid Garden offers another level of magic with plants like the long, purplish drooping petals of the Bulbophyllum auratum or the Bulbophyllum ‘Elizabeth Ann Bucklebury’ with its octopus-like stripy tentacles and the Bulbophyllum lilacinum, with lilac-spotted flowers.

THE ONOMEA TRAIL

The nearby 1.2-mile out-and-back Onomea Trail descends 128ft into the Onomea Valley with gorgeous views of the Hāmākua Coast, right through the fenced-off bioreserve, though walkers can still appreciate the latter’s lush jungle canopy and adjacent flora. Past the Onomea Stream, it joins the Donkey Trail offering views of the striking coastline bluffs, an active shipping port in the 1800s.

Onomea Bay

The trail ends at Twin Rocks Vista, with a view of two volcanic monoliths protruding from the ocean, which locals call the ‘lovers of Kahali‘i.’ Legend holds that they lost their lives protecting the local village of Kahali‘i from attack – these rocks appeared in the water right after their sacrifice. This area was a busy rough-water seaport in the 1800s, and later home to Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese and Filipino immigrants working on sugarcane plantations.

Nearby Turtle Point (also known as Crab Cove) is a nesting site for endangered green sea turtles and hawksbill turtles, and offers the rare chance to see them from a viewing platform during nesting season. A more common sight is the Grapsus tenuicrustatus, also known as the thin-shelled rock crab (or ‘a‘ama in Hawaiian). Look closely and see them camouflaged on the beach’s black lava rocks. These morsels are often on the menu at big Hawaiian luaus.

TOP TIPS

• Go to the bioreserve on a rainy day – some say plants appear more vibrant than ever in wet conditions (the ticket office has umbrellas to rent and ponchos to buy).

• Stop by the Butterfly Garden to gaze at insects in a chrysalis nursery, where you can watch the butterflies/larvae (caterpillars) at different stages of growth.

• Come on a big swell day to see the Blowhole Cove at its most fierce, as it spits out at force creating a caldron-like mist out of a hole in the rock.

HONOMŪ, HAKALAU & LAUPĀHOEHOE

WATERFALLS & COASTAL SCENERY | OUTDOOR ADVENTURE | HISTORY

The towns and settlements dotted off Hawai‘i Belt Rd and the Old Mamalahoa Hwy had their heyday during Big Island’s plantation era. They operated alongside Big Island’s railway and the once bustling port of Laupāhoehoe, which transported sugar from the fields to Hilo. These are now tiny residential communities that happen to be near incredible scenery, including the soaring rainforest-shrouded 442ft ʻAkaka Falls. The latter are moments from the little town of Honomū, with its pretty cluster of original Western-style sugar town buildings, adopted and turned into charming cafes and boutique shops. The northeast’s many picturesque communities now cater to adventurers who can ride miles of ziplines through tropical forests and over waterfalls over 250ft high, or hike and horseback ride on the high slopes of Mauna Kea to natural swimming holes fit for paddleboarding and kayaking.

TOP SIGHTS

1   ʻAkaka Falls State Park

2   Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden

SIGHTS

3   Botanical World Adventures

4   Hāmākua Chocolate Farm

5   Kolekole Beach Park

6   Laupāhoehoe Jodo Temple

7   Laupāhoehoe Point

8   Laupāhoehoe Train Museum

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

9   Hawaii Zipline Tours

10   Onomea Bay Trail

11   Umauma Experience

12   Wailea Horseback Adventures

SLEEPING

13   Akiko’s Buddhist B&B

14   Hāmākua Guesthouse & Camping Cabanas

15   Honomū Inn

16   Island Goode’s

EATING

17   Honomū Goat Dairy

18   Mr Ed’s Bakery

19   The Hive

20   What’s Shakin’

SHOPPING

21   Onomea Country Market & Cafe

22   Pāpaʻaloa Country Store & Cafe

23   Umīque

TRANSPORT

24   Old Mamalahoa Highway

GETTING AROUND

Hele-On Bus services run along Hwy19, stopping at Hawai‘i’s northwest towns. For the most flexibility and to discover remoter sights a car is needed.

TOP TIP

Book ziplining and horseback riding waterfall tours in advance (online or by phone), since these have limited spaces and book up fast in peak season. Take a rain jacket for wet weather, but don’t be tempted to cancel – ziplines are faster and arguably more thrilling in the rain.

Hawaii’s Highest Waterfall

An outstanding state park

Two miles west of Honomū is the family-friendly ʻAkaka Falls State Park, which has two rushing waterfalls – the 100ft Kahuna Falls, clasped by dense rainforest, and the epic 442ft ʻAkaka Falls, plunging into a moss-lined bowl and emerald pool, which some locals consider to be the highest free-flowing waterfall in Hawaii. Both cascades are accessed by an easy half-mile counter-clockwise paved loop (roughly a 20-minute walk), rising and falling via several stairways through a vast array of flora, including massive monstera leaves, vines, orchids, ferns, hibiscus, ohelo (native shrub), bright pua lehua flowers and sprawling banyan trees with mazes of vertical roots.

The waterfalls are caused by streams running down from the Mauna Kea volcano, rising 13,803ft above sea level and measuring 33,476ft from the ocean floor – technically making it taller than Everest from the base up. Water has eroded the ash and basalt slopes for thousands of years to forge deep, narrow gulches. Upon reaching ledges and steep drops they create tumbling and often spectacular cascades. The mighty ʻAkaka Falls is the highest on the Kolekole Stream, which starts at lofty elevations on Mauna Kea and passes by the town of Honomū before spilling out into the Pacific Ocean below.

Some 200,000 people visit the park annually, and the parking lot can get busy – expect to wait in line. You can avoid paying by parking on the road just outside the parking lot. The falls face eastward – sunlight is best in the morning for photos.

BEST GIFT SHOPS

Glass from the Past: Thousands of vintage bottles and glass items of all shapes, sizes and colors in Honomū.

Vintage Hawaiian Wood: Extraordinary collection of handcrafted koa (Hawaiian timber) pieces, from rocking chairs to weapons and bowls.

Umīque: Sustainable gifts made in small batches from upcycled materials, including tote bags, hats and purses. In Honomū.

Zipline Thrills

Lines of various lengths and atmospheric private waterfall hikes

Numerous other beautiful waterfalls lie around the town of Honomū. These are dotted along the tributaries running from the high slopes of Mauna Kea to the Pacific Ocean, along the Kolekole Stream and Pahe‘ehee Stream. The problem for visitors is access – they are often surrounded by dense rainforests and private land.

Luckily for us, entrepreneurial companies like Hawaii Zipline Tours, on Old Mamalahoa Hwy, have struck up deals with local owners to build unobtrusive and thrilling ziplines on a nearby working agricultural farm, where visitors can zoom along seven lines or hike to three waterfalls, one with a swimming hole, as part of an exceptionally run guided tour. The finale of the zipline tour is a half-a-mile white knuckle ride over dense, seemingly impenetrable rainforest above the top of the 250ft Kolekole Waterfall, which tips down a lime-green cliff into a deep pool. The two-hour experience starts with a couple of tame short ziplines over farmland and then more thrilling ziplines, requiring you to climb tall launch towers as you progress – including the wire over Wailele Falls (another contender for the tallest free-flowing waterfall in Hawaii along with ʻAkaka Falls – this one reportedly has a single 1201ft free-flow drop).

Botanical World Adventures, 5 miles north of Honomū along the Hāmākua Coast, also offers another eight ziplines, including one over the 250ft-tall Kamaʻeʻe Falls, plus a suspension bridge, 26 acres of groomed gardens and a whole host of tropical plant life. Children love getting lost in the garden hedge maze and teenagers can wheel around the grounds on Segway tours. Next door the Umauma Experience goes one better for adventure seekers, with nine ziplines over 2 miles of wire, crossing 14 rushing waterfalls, and traveling up to 65 miles per hour in the fastest sections. Zipline and kayak, rappelling and ATV adventures are also available separately or as part of longer combo tours.

Ziplining | EpicStockMedia/Shutterstock ©

FLORA & FAUNA SPOTTING

While ziplining, your Hawaii Zipline Tours guide will likely point out pineapple trees, pink lemons, mangosteen and banana trees in the foliage (with the opportunity to try sweet apple bananas on route). Instructors recount fascinating facts about Hawaiian plant and animal life. The yellow hibiscus state flower, grown on the farm, is worn by local women behind their right ear if they are looking for love, while ko (a perennial grass), dubbed the Hawaiian Christmas tree (due to the shape of its flower), also grows here. The latter was eaten during famines and used for its medicinal properties by ancient Hawaiians. Keep your eyes peeled for the pua’a (kālua pig), or free-roaming wild boar, first brought to the island chain by Polynesian settlers in 500 to 750 CE. When zooming over the rainforests it’s also possible to spy flying endangered Hawaiian hawks, which only live on Big Island.

STAYING IN HONOMŪ & HAKALAU: GUESTHOUSES

Hāmākua Guesthouse: Rustic off-grid guesthouse with B&B rooms in neighboring properties with panoramic Pacific and river views. $

Honomū Inn: Boutique lodgings with bright and airy interiors. Rooms come with breakfast; some have balconies. $$

Akiko’s Buddhist B&B: No-frills charming B&B rooms with low Japanese-style beds and shared baths, plus two off-grid studio cottages. $

Big Island’s Doomed Railway

Trains and coastal scenery in Laupāhoehoe

On the road to Waipiʻo Valley, stop in at the Laupāhoehoe Train Museum to learn about Big Island’s doomed railway, which met its end after the 1946 tsunami destroyed it beyond repair. Once considered Hawaii’s great engineering feat, the 34-mile railway was completed in 1913, costing a million dollars; it had 44 bridges, crossed 150 streams, and included one particularly splendid 230ft bridge – built on steel beams over the Hakalau Gulch. Riding the train was a delight, passing waterfalls, plantations, gorges, tropical trees and surf-battered coastlines.

The museum, housed in an old station agent’s house, is chock-full of memorabilia and photographs from the 1900s, plus a model train room for railway aficionados. A video allows visitors to see what it would have been like aboard the fabled train.

Afterward continue on to Laupāhoehoe Point. The thrilling winding road goes through dense jungle to a strikingly pretty jagged volcanic coastline, with deep blue waters crashing onto shore. The fierce surf makes it unsuitable for swimming so pack a picnic instead.

WAILEA HORSEBACK ADVENTURES

Wailea Horseback Adventures offers two-hour adventures on private land, riding Hawaiian paniolo-style through the countryside with views of the Pacific, historic plantations, lush tropical foliage, the Umauma River and Mauna Kea in the distance. Stop for a picnic in the surroundings, then finish at Umauma Falls, where there’s an option for a refreshing swim and paddleboard in the natural pool’s refreshing waters at the bottom of the hidden cascade.

EATING IN HONOMŪ: SNACKS

Mr Ed’s Bakery: A counter filled with freshly baked pastries like guava bear claws, blueberry turnovers and sweet monkey bread. $

The Hive: Part coffee shop, part healthy cafe serving sublime flower-topped salads and chunky sourdough sandwiches. $

Honomū Goat Dairy: Working farm serving up homemade cheese and award-winning milk caramels, plus fresh goat-milk fudge. $

DRIVING TOUR

Papaikou to Waipi‘o Valley

Soak up the rugged beauty of the Hāmākua Coast on an exhilarating 43-mile drive from Papaikou, a small town just north of Hilo, to the verdant Waipi‘o Valley, with its rich pleated valleys. Combine the Old Mamalahoa Hwy with the new Mamalahoa Hwy (known as Hawai‘i Belt Rd) to cruise past jungles, rivers and pounding surf and through quaint towns, stopping for a host of adventures en route.

Waipi‘o Valley | Westend61/Getty Images ©

1 Papaikou to Honomū

Join the Old Mamalahoa Hwy in Papaikou as it veers off into lush narrow road with steep rainforest banks and crosses single-lane bridges and the Aleamai, Kaiee and Kalaoa Streams. The foliage thickens and the air becomes moist while nearing the Onomea Bay Trail (a worthwhile mile-long ramble into the Onomea Valley with striking views of the Hāmākua Coast). Stop in at the Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden, before continuing the drive past coconut palms and wild fauna, crossing the Kawainui Stream over a wooden single-track bridge.

The Drive: Cross Hawai‘i Belt Rd and travel 4.3 miles along the Old Mamalahoa Hwy to Honomū.

2 Honomū

Cruise through the old sugar town of Honomū with its pastel-colored storefronts and gift shops. Don’t leave without a jar of local fruit jam from Mr Ed’s Bakery; popular varieties include liliko’i (passionfruit), banana-coconut and jackfruit. From here the scenery turns from jungle and town to farmland.

The Drive: Dip back onto Hawai‘i Belt Rd, head north, and join the Old Mamalahoa Hwy to the west, just beyond Hakalau Bay. Follow for 3.4 miles.

3 Hakalau & Umauma

Along Hawai‘i Belt Rd, look out for magnificent views of the lush hillsides flanking Hakalau Stream, where a long bridge crosses a deep ravine with beautiful valley and ocean views. Wind back onto the Old Mamalahoa Hwy to Botanical World Adventures, where ziplines zoom over the Kamaʻeʻe Falls. The nearby Umauma river offers more adventures.

The Drive: Continue on the Mamalahoa Hwy and rejoin Hawai‘i Belt Rd at Ninole to Laupāhoehoe Point some 10.6 miles away.

4 Laupāhoehoe Point

Sea views appear beyond the small settlements of Ninole, Papa’aloa and Weloka along the Hawai‘i Belt Rd toward Laupāhoehoe. Stop in at the informative Laupāhoehoe Train Museum, which tells the story of a railroad that was never to last, thanks to the 1946 tsunami. Then continue to windy, rugged Laupāhoehoe Point.

The Drive: Rejoin Hawai‘i Belt Rd for a 16.7-mile drive through thick fragrant forests toward the town of Honokaʻa, where you join Ohia St.

5 Honokaʻa

Reaching Honokaʻa is like stepping back in time, with well-maintained clapboard storefronts painted in subdued tones and protected landmarks. Antique shops, cafes and restaurants with vintage fronts line tiny-but-happening Mamane St.

The Drive: The final stretch to Waipi‘o Valley is an 8.7-mile cruise along an elevated section of the Waipiʻo Rd (Hwy 240), with clearings in the trees offering views of the ocean some 700ft below.

6 Waipiʻo Valley Lookout

A soaring view over the Waipiʻo Valley awaits at the end of Hwy 240. The spectacular natural amphitheater covered in lush jungle forms part of seven valleys on the windward side of Kohala Mountains.

HONOKAʻA

HISTORIC TOWN | BOUTIQUES & ANTIQUES | FARMERS MARKETS & FESTIVALS

It’s hard to believe that laid-back Honokaʻa, with its small cluster of old pastel-colored wooden Western-style buildings, was once the third-largest town in Hawaii, after Hilo and Honolulu. This formerly thriving sugar and farming town had a diverse community of Hawaiians, Japanese, American, Chinese and Portuguese immigrants, but dwindled in size following the closing of the plantations in the 20th century – Honokaʻa Sugar Company’s last harvest was in 1993. Today it serves nearby farmers and has become a charming historic tourist stop on the way to Waipiʻo Valley, 10 miles west. Its main street, Mamane St, is dotted with quirky boutique and antique shops, plus places to try farm-fresh produce. Stop for a show at the Honokaʻa People’s Theatre or visit during big community events like the Hāmākua Harvest Farmers Market on Sunday mornings and the annual Honoka‘a Western Week, for a snapshot of local life.

SIGHTS

1   Honokaʻa People’s Theatre

2   Katsu Goto Memorial

3   NHERC Heritage Center

SLEEPING

4   Hotel Honoka’a Club

EATING

5   Andrade’s Honokaa Cafe

6   Fudge’n Coffee Cafe

7   Harmoni Foods

8   Lean-To Farm Hawaiʻi

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

9   Honokaʻa Public House

ENTERTAINMENT

10   Honokaʻa Western Week

SHOPPING

11   Big Island Grown

12   Cathy’s Angelite Crystals

13   Hāmākua Living

14   Honokaʻa Chocolate Co.

15   Honokaʻa Trading Company

16   Malama Market Honokaʻa

GETTING AROUND

Hele-On bus services run from Hilo to Honokaʻa each day. The little town is walkable, but further afield a car is needed.

TOP TIP

Visit Honokaʻa early in the day – most places including restaurants and shops close their doors by 6pm, with the exception of Honokaʻa’s Public House, which is open until around 9pm most days.

Honokaʻa Stories

Local history and town walk

The go-to place to understand the little town of Honokaʻa and its surrounding areas is the free NHERC Heritage Center. Staffed by knowledgeable, friendly volunteers, the center has detailed info boards and dozens of antique artifacts: an old Singer sewing machine, a retro 1940s TV, an early 1900s Victrola record player, plus original plantation tools, ornate Japanese dolls, and a full case of weapons confiscated by the local sheriff. Many historic town photos date to the town’s booming plantation days.

Exhibitions remember the diverse services that kept the town running, including the lawmakers, the families running hardware stores and the quirky Bragado Bus Service, plus community baseball teams. Exhibitions also tell the story of the nearby Waipiʻo Valley.

Pick up a Historic Honokaa Town map at the front desk to do a self-guided tour of Mamane St’s historic sights (there are 73 of them!) – look out for the plaques on notable buildings, with detailed historical descriptions. The on-site gift shop sells vintage toys, local history books and gift sets. Ask about the due-to-launch guided history tours and special upcoming exhibitions.

EATING IN HONOKAʻA

Tex Drive-In: Specializing in hot, fresh malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts), loco moco and decent plate lunches. $

Harmoni Foods: Sensational Korean hole-in-the-wall serving up bibimbap and pork tacos with local farm-fresh ingredients. $

Honoka’a Country Market: Grab and go doorstep deli sandwiches, breakfast burritos and fresh quiche to take on local hikes. $

Plantation-Era Accommodations

Stay in a historic hotel

Dating back to 1912, Hotel Honokaʻa Club is one of the oldest of the Japanese-owned hotels left on the island, with vintage features throughout including Victoriana corner sinks, wood-paneled walls and original mid-century furniture (though not in a hip way!). It offered reasonably priced bed and board for plantation workers and had a popular restaurant serving slap-up lobster dinners. While the restaurant is now closed, stays are still atmospheric, with light breakfasts for backpackers and frugal travelers. Cozy private en suite doubles, singles and dorms have shared bathrooms and are conveniently situated next to the town pub. Views from the 2nd-floor ocean rooms are sublime – with wall-to-wall windows at an elevation of 1000ft, looking over banana and avocado trees to the Pacific. But bring earplugs for the paper-thin walls.

Cacao pods | andysartworks/shutterstock ©

KATSU GOTO MEMORIAL

Katsu Goto is something of a local legend. The Japanese cane field worker, who later opened a general store in Honoka‘a, was an activist who spoke out against human rights abuses and the exploitation of Japanese field workers. Fluent in English, he often showed up for plantation employees in court. As to be expected, he was deeply unpopular with local plantation bosses and was tragically lynched by a mob of six men after visiting a local plantation during the night to discuss working conditions with Japanese employees. He was hanged from a telegraph pole in 1889. A large plaque dedicated to Goto in the spot where his body was found can be seen on Mamane St.

DRINKING IN HONOKAʻA: COFFEE

Lean-To Farm Hawaiʻi: Best place in town for a cuppa joe, serving locally grown and roasted Papaaloa Joe coffee, with tropical notes.

Andrade’s Honokaa Cafe: Come for strong pots of filter coffee and ‘boot’ beer floats (ice cream served in a hoppy pint in the shape of a boot).

Fudge ’n’ Coffee Cafe: Mom-and-pop shop with coffee, chai lattes and fudge, from classic to tropical flavors such as lime and coconut.

Fresh Produce & Community Life

Go local at a farmers market

Taking place every Sunday morning, rain or shine, the terrific Hāmākua Harvest Farmers Market, around 3.5 miles east of town, is the place to dive into Big Island community life, with regular entertainment such as live music and occasional talks. A variety of local vendors tout sustainable and locally grown or made produce, including honey, jerky, goat cheese, smoked fish, exotic fruit-infused gelato, tropical tacos and whatever is ripe from residents’ gardens. Free (often organic) samples are abundant.

The bigger annual Farm Fest takes place at the same location in spring on the first Sunday of Honoka‘a Western Week, with activities and workshops celebrating paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) culture – the Hawai‘i Saddle Club rodeo, paniolo parade, block party and a saloon girl contest, plus hula and Hawaiian cultural events are a blast.

All Things Chocolate

Orchard tour and chocolate tasting

A quarter of a mile into the hills above Honoka’a town is this great rainy-day activity: a two-hour orchard tour at Honoka’a Chocolates, run by California implants Mike and Rhonda Pollard. You’ll take a look around their 5-acre cacao farm, where they grow the beans that make award-winning chocolate, and learn about the beans are harvested, fermented and dried. At the end of the tour, you’ll taste the fresh fruit of a ripe cacao pod and try five exceptional chocolate varieties. Alternatively, the Honoka’a Chocolates factory store on Mamane St sells all the current bars and offers free chocolate tastings, from the sensational pure Hawaii 85% dark chocolate to the smooth coconut dark milk chocolate and the ridiculously moreish, rum-infused chocolate.

HONOKAʻA PUBLIC HOUSE

There’s only one watering hole in town, but it’s a goodie. Honokaʻa Public House has taken up residence inside the original wooden Historic First Bank of Hilo Building, dating to 1910 (although it was moved to its present location in 1927). Its cabin-like setting is brimming with local charm and the bar serves more than half a dozen craft beers, including Hawaii tipples, cocktails and Coconut Hiwa Porter and Hana Hou Hefeweizen on tap. Accompany beverages with a whole host of American eats – burgers, sandwiches and pizzas (including their famous breakfast pizzas on Sunday mornings).

SHOPPING IN HONOKAʻA

Honokaʻa Trading Company: Hangar-size store with some seriously cool vintage items, including plenty of Hawaiiana.

Cathy’s Angelite Crystals: Carries hundreds of different types of stones, including ‘the largest crystal in Hawaii’, a 1000lb quartz.

Big Island Grown: Large array of locally produced gifts and trinkets such as jewelry, stuffed toys and handmade soaps.

Movie Night

A favorite vintage cinema

On a rainy day or evening, there’s nothing more evocative than watching a movie at the Honokaʻa People’s Theatre, a grand old-fashioned classical revival-style theater and the Big Island’s largest outside of Hilo, with more than 500 seats. It was built in 1930, at the height of the Silver Screen era, when it would show Japanese, Portuguese, Filipino and Hollywood blockbuster movies for the area’s immigrant populations. Today it shows independent and popular movies on a 50ft screen and turns into an occasional concert venue for local and touring musicians and artists. Check the program online.

Secluded Forest Walks

Off-the-beaten-track park

Six miles southeast of Honokaʻa, the 100-acre public-access Kalōpā State Recreation Area has camping facilities with three shelters for tents, plus restrooms and barbecues (permits required) and a couple of empty trails. The very easy 0.75-mile loop Native Forest Nature Trail traverses figs, ferns and old ʻōhiʻa forest – some giant trees have 3ft trunks. The 3.7-mile easy round-trip Perimeter Horse Trail (accessible for horses and hikers) climbs 450ft through forest and exotic vegetation and is utterly peaceful – it’s unlikely you’ll see other tourists.

Kalōpā State Recreation Area | Ian Poellet, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons ©

MACADAMIA NUTS

Hawaii’s first macadamia trees were planted in Honoka‘a in 1881 by William Purvis, a sugar-plantation manager who brought seedlings from Australia. For 40 years the trees were grown mainly for ornamental purposes because the nutshells were considered too hard to crack.

Hawaii’s first large-scale commercial macadamia orchard was planted in Honoka‘a in 1924. Macadamia nuts have proven to be one of the most commercially viable agricultural crops in Hawaii.

Everything Vanilla

Afternoon tea and farm tours

Family-run Hawaiian Vanilla Company is the first commercial vanilla operation in the US. It offers pricey, but saliva-inducing, lunches with fresh produce that foodies go gaga over. But the real draw here is the full afternoon tea experience, with proper tiered cake stands, suitably stacked with a host of vanilla-infused treats: vanilla liliko‘i (passionfruit) pound cake, vanilla banana bread, vanilla bourbon citrus chicken sliders, vanilla sweet bread and vanilla raspberry sorbet. All washed down with a whole host of Hawaiian Vanilla Vineyard tea blends, naturally.

WAIPIʻO VALLEY

INCREDIBLE VIEWPOINT | NATIVE HAWAIIAN SACRED SITE | REMOTE EXPERIENCES

Sacred to Native Hawaiians, the ‘Valley of the Kings’ is a jaw-dropping natural amphitheater, scalloped into verdant emerald cliffs, offering a stunning viewpoint and a challenging (and hard-to-reach) hike. In the 1700s, it was home to King Kamehameha, who was brought to this secluded tropical refuge as a boy to protect him from threats from warring chiefs. In 1791, he led a successful canoe battle, known as the Battle of the Red Mouth Guns, off the coast here, using cannons for the first time (obtained from British and American traders); the invaders were defeated and fled to Maui. In 1946, a tsunami destroyed many of the ancient sights here, including a temple, structures and ancient taro patches. But Waipiʻo’s beauty remains intact, luring adventure seekers to hike its thrilling switchbacks and waterfall-rich gulches.

In 2022, authorities indefinitely closed Waipiʻo’s Valley Rd for ‘precautionary safety’ reasons. Visitors can no longer access the valley floor by vehicle or foot, though it can still be accessed via local tours.

Waipiʻo Valley | David Shvartsman/Getty Images ©

GETTING AROUND

Hele-On Bus runs services along Hwy 19 to stopping at Hawai‘i’s northwest towns; these do not connect with the Waipiʻo Valley. A car is needed for the most flexibility and to discover remoter sights.

TOP TIP

At the end of Hwy 240, the Waipiʻo Valley Lookout offers a jaw-dropping view of Waipi‘o’s emerald amphitheater, black-sand beach and pounding surf. Feast your eyes on one of Hawaii’s iconic images.

TOP SIGHTS

1   Waipiʻo Valley Lookout

SIGHTS

2   Waipiʻo Valley

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

3   Muliwai Trail

4   Waipi’o On Horseback

5   Waipiʻo Valley Shuttle Tour

SLEEPING

6   Hale Kukui Orchard & Resort

7   Waipiʻo Lodge

SHOPPING

8   Waipiʻo Valley Artworks

The Waipiʻo Shuttle

Ride to the bottom of the valley

Rangers sit at the entrance to the 4WD-only Waipiʻo’s Valley Rd until around 3pm each day, preventing non-residents from entering, either by foot or car, meaning access to Waipiʻo hikes has gotten incredibly difficult. One of the only ways in is by catching a ride with a local, or on a (pricey) organized shuttle tour.

The Waipiʻo Valley Shuttle Tour leaves from Waipiʻo Valley Artworks on Kukuihaele Rd (around half a mile east of Waipiʻo Lookout) four times a day. The tour takes visitors down the 45% hairpin road (reportedly the steepest of its length in the US) with a cumulative drop of around 1400ft, and offers the chance to see Waipiʻo’s Hiilawe Falls, plus waterways and a beach. Providing there are spaces available, hikers can organize to be dropped off at the bottom of the valley on an early tour, spend a few hours hiking, then catch the tour back up the mountain.

While the valley is closed, other local tour providers have shifted locations and offerings slightly. Waipi‘o on Horseback offer rides on a nearby ranch, with options overlooking Hamakua Ditch.

Wild horses | Joshua Whitcomb/shutterstock ©

WAIPIʻO VALLEY MYTHOLOGY

Waipi‘o Valley is considered sacred for many supernatural and regal reasons. Not only was this where the god Lono wooed his beautiful maiden Kaikilani and King Kamehameha I received the war god Ku, but it was also where the progenitor gods Kane and Kanaloa debauched themselves on the land’s bounty – including ‘awa. According to legend, Kanaloa (‘the ‘awa-drinker’) and his followers revolted following a prohibition upon the narcotic beverage and were consequently banished to the underworld. The portal to this land of the dead is said to be carved into the steep cliffs above Waipi‘o. Visit the NHERC Heritage Center in Honokaʻa to learn more.

STAY, EAT & SHOP IN WAIPIʻO VALLEY

Hale Kukui Orchard: Tree guesthouses with dramatic views of the Waipiʻo Valley in citrus-, banana- and papaya-tree-filled grounds. $$

Waipiʻo Lodge: Sustainable guesthouse in Kukuihaele on the way to Waipiʻo Valley, with wooden decks looking to the Pacific. $$

Waipiʻo Valley Artworks: For a sizeable collection of Hawaiian timber pieces (from bowls to rocking chairs), plus a snack shop.

Hike the Valley

Tackle the Muliwai Trail

While the 8.5-mile difficult backcountry Muliwai Trail from Waipiʻo Valley to Waimanu Valley is open, it’s logistically very difficult to reach if you’re not with a local who owns a 4WD – Waipiʻo’s Valley Rd (going down the valley from Waipiʻo Lookout) is closed to visitors on foot. One way down to the beach (the trailhead is at its northern end) is to arrange a ride with a local or take the shuttle service.

Due to the trail’s lower footfall, prepare for a steep, slippery 1200ft ascent, zigzagging up the side of Waipiʻo’s western wall, crossing around a dozen gulches (some with waterfalls), through dense tropical plants and up to a plateau with soaring views. Start very early; it’s around a seven-hour hike one way. Otherwise, bring equipment to camp at one of the nine pitches with basic restrooms at the Waimanu Campground (pre-arranged permit required with the Forest & Wildlife Office). Don’t attempt the hike before or after it rains.

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park & Kaʻū

SUPERLATIVE VOLCANOES, BEACHES AND UNDEVELOPED COUNTRYSIDE

For a dramatic reminder that the planet remains under construction, visit Hawaii’s most active volcanoes and the landscapes born of their wrath.

Thurston Lava Tube | Photo by Sam Scholes/getty images ©

With steaming craters and emerald rainforest, majestic coastline and unearthly deserts, windblown ranches and eccentric artist enclaves, the southern region of the Island of Hawaiʻi is a land of extremes and untamed adventure. At the center, two of the world’s most active volcanoes regularly explode into fiery lava fountains and red-hot flows, striking awe (and terror) into the hearts of all who behold them. Whether the lava will be flowing during your visit is difficult to predict, but one aspect of Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park – an International Biosphere Reserve and UNESCO World Heritage Site – remains certain: the mapmakers’ jobs are secure.

Over the last couple of years, the volcanoes have been intermittently cranky. Mauna Loa (13,681ft), the world’s largest active volcano and a beast of a hike, sprang into action in 2022 after a 38-year hiatus, spewing lava down its flanks and nearly taking out Saddle Rd. Kīlauea (4091ft), the world’s youngest volcano and one of its most active, achieved a hat-trick of eruptions in 2023, sending spurts of lava hundreds of feet in the air and dumping unthinkably hot liquid from its fissures. A 2018 Kīlauea eruption destroyed 700 homes and the park’s historic Jaggar Museum, the remains of which park officials leveled in 2023. And with some two million people descending on the park each year, overtourism and spreading the love south to undeveloped Kaʻū (sustainably, of course!) are top of mind.

Puʻu ʻOʻo | Douglas Peebles/getty images ©

THE MAIN AREAS

HAWAIʻI VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

A lot of lava.

KAʻŪ

Secluded beaches and rural authenticity.

Find Your Way

Stretching over more than 500 sq miles, this vast National Park is nearly the size of O‘ahu. With each eruption there’s more new ground to cover, literally, so you’re in for quite the adventure.

Plan Your Time

Prioritize the volcanoes, but build in some downtime for beach hopping, art appreciating, farm-stand sampling and casual strolling in the rainforest.

Kīlauea Iki Trail | Maridav/Shutterstock ©

Pressed for Time

Base yourself at a sweet B&B in Volcano and hit up the national park’s highlights, including a tour along Crater Rim Dr, a crater trek down the Kīlauea Iki Trail, and a scenic drive via Chain of Craters Road all the way to the sea. If time allows, take a detour around to South Point to see Green Sand Beach.

Five Days to Travel

If prepared, take a strenuous hike up Mauna Loa; if not, do some more easygoing volcano park hikes. Bump around the lesser-explored Kahuku Unit and spelunk through a lava tube with Kula Kai Caverns. Take the scenic drive along pastoral Ka‘alaiki Rd or, with a 4WD, cruise the super-adventurous Road to the Sea.

Seasonal highlights

SPRING

The national park is at its rainiest, but in the late spring, sleepy Pahala is ramping up for the Ka‘ū Coffee Festival.

SUMMER

The park crowds in July and the National Park Cultural Festival is on. The clearest days are in August and September.

FALL

Fewer crowds in October, but rain fairly low. Tour art studios during the Volcano Village Artists Hui in late November.

WINTER

Come in December, when rainfall is minimal in Ka‘ū and the winter crowds haven’t started showing up yet.

HAWAIʻI VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

EPIC LANDSCAPES | VOLCANOES | SCENIC DRIVES

From the otherworldly summit of the world’s most massive volcano, Mauna Loa, to the windswept coastline where lava poured into the sea for decades, Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park is a micro-continent of dripping rainforests, bizarre desertscapes, high-mountain meadows and coastal plains, with plenty of geological marvels in between. At the heart of it all is Kīlauea – the planet’s youngest and most active shield volcano – which erupted three times in 2023 and is expected to spew lava again in the near future.

Once you’ve paid your respects to the Hawaiian deity Pele, who is said to live in Kīlauea’s Halemaʻumaʻu crater, it’s worth checking out the Kahuku Unit, a former ranch whose 116,000 wild and undeveloped acres became part of the park in 2003. And just beyond park boundaries, the misty village of Volcano is an ideal base for exploring the region, with art galleries, nature walks and cute restaurants galore.

SIGHTS

1   Chain of Craters Road

2   Halemaʻumaʻu

3   Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

4   Kīlauea Iki Overlook

5   Kīlauea Visitor Center & Museum

6   Puʻu Loa Petroglyphs

7   2400 Fahrenheit

8   Akatsuka Orchid Gardens

9   ʻAlae Lava Shield

10   ‘Apua Point

11   Halapé

12   Hōlei Sea Arch

13   Kealakomo

14   Keauhou

15   Kīlauea Overlook

16   Makaopuhi Crater

17   Niaulani Campus

18   Old Pulu Factory

19   Puʻu ʻOʻo

20   Steam Vents & Steaming Bluff

21   Volcano Art Center

22   Volcano Garden Arts

23   Volcano Winery

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

24   Backcountry Office

25   Devastation Trail

26   Halemaʻumaʻu Trail

27   Kaʻu Desert Trail

28   Kazumura Cave Tours

29   Kīlauea Iki Trail

30   Mauna Iki Trail

31   Nāpau Crater Trail

32   Puna Coast Trails

33   Thurston Lava Tube

34   Volcano Golf

Sleeping

35   Alii Kane Cottages

36   Aloha Junction

37   Holo Holo In

38   Kīlauea Lodge

39   Kulanaokuaiki Campground

40   Lava Pond Lodge

41   Lotus Garden Cottages

42   Namakanipaio Cabins & Campground

43   Volcano House

44   Volcano Rainforest Retreat

EATING

Café Ono (see 22)

45   Eagle’s Lighthouse Cafe

46   Kīlauea General Store

Kīlauea Lodge Restaurant (see 38)

47   ʻOhelo Café

Rim Restaurant (see 43)

48   Thai Thai Bistro & Bar

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

Uncle George’s Lounge (see 43)

GETTING AROUND

You’ll need your own wheels to get around Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, as there is no transportation to or shuttle service in the park. Cyclists are permitted on paved roads, and a handful of dirt ones, including the Escape Rd but not on most trails. Hele-On Bus services do travel between Hilo and Volcano five times a day (one trip also connects Volcano with Kaʻū), but a car will make it much easier to get around.

TOP TIP

Get an early start. The park is open 24 hours but the tour buses and crowds start arriving around 10am. Also, take advantage of the park’s education programs, interpretive signs, ranger-led hikes and weekly lectures, which provide a solid connection to the park and the people of Hawaiʻi.

Trails of Lava

Must-do hikes in the park

The park’s 150 magical miles of trails offer suitable options for every level of athleticism (and some wheelchair-accessible paths). Regardless of the hike, be prepared for rapidly changing conditions: a hot sunny stroll can turn cold and wet in an instant, and when eruptions are imminent or happening, large swaths of the park can close without warning for safety reasons.

If you can only do one day hike, make it Kīlauea Iki Trail, and do it counter-clockwise. The 4.5-mile loop traverses an astounding microcosm of the park, descending through fairy-tale ʻōhiʻa forests to a mile-wide, still-steaming crater that was filled by a fiery fountain that turned it into a lava lake. The eruption took place over five weeks at the end of 1959, filling the crater and forming the cinder pile above, which reached 1900ft (the highest ever recorded in Hawaii). To fully appreciate this hike, first watch the vintage film Eruption of Kīlauea 1959–1960 (found on YouTube) and download the brochure from the park website. Hit the trail before 8am to beat the crowds and follow the ahu (stone cairns) for navigation and safety purposes.

Another rightfully popular path in the heart of the park is the Halemaʻumaʻu Trail, which begins at the visitor center and proceeds down through forested terraces to the Kīlauea caldera. Although the section of the trail that crosses the caldera has been closed for several years due to activity at the other end, the ranger-led hike ‘Into the Volcano’ takes visitors over this area then back up the Byron Ledge and Crater Rim trails.

Other worthwhile and relatively easy paths include the Devastation Trail (0.5 miles of wheelchair-accessible path through a hellscape buried beneath falling cinder during a 1959 Kīlauea eruption), the Ha‘akulamanu Trail (an easy 1.2-mile round-trip from the visitor center that takes in a volcanic thermal area’s multi-color deposits and billowing vapors) and the Nāhuku Trail (a 1.5-mile round trip through the rainforest and the 500-year-old Thurston Lava Tube). Casual hikers who drive the Chain of Craters Road should also hike the Puʻu Loa Petroglyphs Trail, an easy 1.4m round-trip path to ancient petroglyphs chiseled into rock, including abstract designs and animal and human figures.

BEST TOUR OPERATORS

Friends of Hawaiʻi Volcanoes NP

Private scientist/naturalist-led tours including Sunday Walks in the Park every second Sunday of the month. Visit fhvnp.org.

Hawaii Forest & Trail

Guided full-day tours cover many of the park’s highlights, including lava tubes, steam vents and craters.

Volcano Bike Tours

Informative guided and self-guided e-biking tours of the park. The three- to five-hour trips are mostly downhill along Crater Rim Dr and Chain of Craters Road.

Volcano Adventures

For a ʻdeep dive’ into Hawaiʻi’s volcanoes, these weeklong and two-week tours explore eruptions and historic flows across several islands.

STAYING IN THE NATIONAL PARK

Volcano House: Perched on the rim of Kīlauea caldera, this is the park’s only hotel, with 33 spacious (if plain) rooms. Ask for a volcano view. $$

Namakanipaio Cabins & Campground: Tent camping and small A-frame cabins in a meadow near the highway. Water, picnic tables and BBQ grills included. $

Kulanaokuaiki Campground: This minimal campground down Hilina Pali Rd has walk-in sites tucked into the ʻōhiʻa. Pit toilets and picnic tables, but no water. $

HIKING TO THE NĀPAU CRATER

Begin at the 1 Mauna Ulu parking area, and look across the road for a trail heading south through the vegetation. This 0.5-mile loop explores the sensuous ramparts of the 1969 fissure that kicked off the five-year eruption of Mauna Ulu. From the fissure, the trail rounds the end of the forest, crossing the path of the Old Chain of Craters Road (built 1960 and buried 1969) before passing through two kipuka (volcanic oasis) besieged by an impressive army of lava trees. At Mile 1.5, a side trail takes you 100ft up the side of 2 Puʻu Huluhulu, a 500-year-old cone that used to be the tallest point around – until Mauna Ulu (Growing Mountain) took over. A spur trail climbs 100ft to spectacular views. From here, Nāpau Crater Trail continues across fields of psychedelic pāhoehoe (smooth-flowing lava) around Mauna Ulu’s north flank, gradually summiting 3 ʻAlae Lava Shield, which used to be a crater, at Mile 2.7. Descend 300ft over 2 miles toward the Kane Nui o Hamo shield, which formed 400 to 750 years ago but is still torn open by a steaming red fissure. At its base is the mile-long 4 Makaopuhi Crater. The trail skirts to the south, intersecting with Naulu Trail at Mile 4.7, then continuing straight through a muddy fern forest past the rock walls of the 5 Old Pulu Factory, where tree ferns were over-harvested in the 1800s for the soft, downy material in their fronds that stuffed pillows and mattresses. After reaching the sheer edge of 6 Nāpau Crater (watch your step), an optional extension allows for continuing another 2 miles to the base of 7 Puʻu ʻOʻo, which erupted nonstop between 1983 and 2018.

Feel the Burn

Spend a night in the park

For experienced hikers spending multiple days in the park, there are lots of good trails further afield, many of which you’ll access off Crain of Craters Road. The Nāpau Crater Trail undulates for 14 miles (round trip) over rugged terrain past a lava shield and several craters, while the Keauhou and Puna Coast trails connect you with the wilder side of the park. The Hilina Pali Rd was closed for safety reasons during research, but when it is open it brings visitors to a savagely beautiful desert wilderness where the challenging Mauna Iki and Ka‘ū Desert trails (each about 14 miles round trip) traverse a desolate, moon-like environment that tells the story of a 1790 eruption. On a short offshoot leading to (and accessible from) Hwy 11, you’ll find scattered ancient footprints left in the ash and preserved in sediment.

These long, exposed trails – along with the strenuous and bucket-list-worthy Mauna Loa Trail to the volcano’s summit – are most often tackled by visitors who aim to spend the night. All overnight hikes require a $10 permit, which must be purchased online via recreation.gov and picked up from the park’s Backcountry Office up to a week in advance. One permit covers up to 12 people for seven nights. Be sure to download the park’s backcountry trip planner covering potential hazards with safety tips and advice for protecting wildlife and archaeological sites.

Mauna Ulu | Felix Nendzig/shutterstock ©

GOODBYE TO THE JAGGAR MUSEUM

Once the second-most visited museum in the state, the Jaggar Museum held exhibits on volcano science and Hawaiian culture. The building suffered significant structural damage during the 2018 eruption cycle, which included tens of thousands of earthquakes, towering ash plumes and a collapse of the Kīlauea caldera. The museum’s foundation was destabilized, so park officials demolished it and two other buildings (including a USGS field station) in 2023 and began to restore the area to its natural state. In the future there will be construction around Kīlauea’s summit as the visitor center is renovated and expanded to replace the function of the museum. Meanwhile, Crater Rim Dr will also be realigned, with a roundabout installed to improve safety, and USGS will build a replacement field station beside the ball field in Kīlauea Military Camp.

DINING IN THE NATIONAL PARK & VOLCANO

ʻOhelo Café: Local flavors combine with international flair, offering a hearty menu that foodies will drool over. Make dinner reservations. $$

Thai Thai Bistro & Bar: Authentically flavored and well-portioned Thai dishes such as delish curries and tom yum soup. $$

Kīlauea Lodge Restaurant: Volcano’s high-end kitchen puts out a locally sourced dinner menu of fresh seafood, steak and pasta. So good! $$$

Rim Restaurant: Crater-front dining with elegant ambience and better-than-average modern cuisine made from local ingredients. $$$

Uncle George’s Lounge: Small bar serving The Rim’s lunch menu and volcano views all day, along with local craft brews. $$

Café Ono: Organic vegetarian and vegan comfort food served in the garden and sunroom behind Volcano Garden Arts. $$

Short But Impactful

Best hikes for kids

For those with small kids looking for something less ambitious, one great option is the Kipuka Puaulu Trail. The shady, 1.2-mile hike loops through a rainforest kipuka (oasis) that has rebounded after years of intensive grazing turned it into a grassland. Now, thanks to fencing and aggressive restoration this parcel has more native tree species per acre than anywhere else in the park, making it a haven for birds and bird-watchers. The trailhead is 1.5 miles up Mauna Loa Rd at the turnaround, and is best explored in the early morning or at dusk, when you’ll be enveloped by the songs of honeycreepers.

Just outside the park, over at the Niaulani Campus of the Volcano Art Center, there’s also an easy path through an old-growth ʻōhiʻa rainforest, which can be hiked anytime and takes about an hour. If you show up at 9:30am on Mondays, a guide will lead you through, covering the ecological importance of koa and ʻōhiʻa forests, traditional Hawaiian uses of plants, and the key role of birds. This Niaulani Nature Walk is free, but donations are appreciated.

KAMAʻEHUAKANALOA SEAMOUNT

About 20 miles off the southeast coast of Hawaiʻi and more than 3000ft below sea level lies the archipelago’s youngest volcano, Kamaʻehuakanaloa Seamount. The volcano is unlikely to make its fiery debut for another 10,000 years or so, and does not currently pose a safety risk. But recently there’s been an increase in activity with the volcano, including a rash of undersea earthquakes, new evidence of previous eruptions and even a new name. The old name, Loiʻhi (which means long in Hawaiian), was changed by the Hawaiʻi Board on Geographic Names in 2021 for cultural reasons. The new name is more traditional, invoking Pelehonuamea (the goddess of fire and volcanoes) and her birth out of Kanaloa.

CRUISING CHAIN OF CRATERS ROAD

On an island packed with scenic drives, Chain of Craters Road is possibly the most scenic. It winds 20 miles and 3700ft down the southern slopes of Kīlauea, an active shield volcano, beginning at a turnoff from Crater Rim Dr, where the 1 Devastation Trail also begins (if you’ve got time to spare, hike the 0.5-mile trail through the wasteland of Kīlauea Iki’s 1959 eruption). From there, you’ll cruise down the road past a series of pit craters incuding 2 Pauahi Crater, the site of three eruptions whose name means ‘destroyed by fire.’ Look eastward for a glimpse of Mauna Ulu, the volcanic cone that buried a 6-mile section of the original Chain of Craters Road in 300ft of lava. Continue driving past formations from a 1969 lava flow and descend a series of pali (cliffs) to reach 3 Kealakomo, a viewpoint with picnic tables overlooking the sea (and possibly the windiest lunch spot in the park). Below the switchbacks, imagine the smoking red lava pouring down the hillsides to consume the road, and bulldozers making a new one after that lava cooled. When you reach the 4 Pu‘u Loa Trailhead, hop out and hike the gentle, 1.3-mile round-trip to one of Hawaiʻi’s largest concentrations of ancient petroglyphs, some over 800 years old. Here Hawaiians chiseled more than 23,000 drawings into pāhoehoe (smooth-flowing lava) with adz tools quarried from Keanakakoʻi. Continue the drive to the 5 End of the Road, where there’s a small ranger shack, pit toilets and a small concession stand at the turnaround. Constantly brutalized by unrelenting surf, the coast here has sharply eroded lava-rock pali, including the 6 Hōlei Sea Arch, an ephemeral rock carved by crashing waves.

BEST BACKCOUNTRY CAMPSITES

Gwendolyn Hill is the founder and president of Bike Volcano (bikevolcano.com), which offers e-bike rentals and tours (including a self-guided audio tour) in the park. Her favorite backcountry campsites include:

Halapé

This is my favorite place to camp. There are freshwater ponds created by the 1979 earthquake and tsunami, and you can bathe in them (no soap, though!).

Keauhou

The snorkeling here is just amazing. There’s so much coral (never stand on it, please) and endangered hawksbill turtles nest along the coast.

‘Apua Point

This is a pretty spot where very few people go. The surf is great because of the south swell, and there’s powerful ocean energy.

CULTURAL EVENTS IN THE PARK

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park Cultural Festival: Annual festival celebrating Hawaiian arts, crafts, music and hula with demonstrations and exhibits.

After Dark in the Park: Experts in science, conservation, art or history unlock the mysteries of the park in this award-winning lecture series.

Hula Kahiko: A free series of outdoor kahiko (ancient) hula performances happens near the Volcano Art Center on one Saturday morning each month.

A Scenic Drive & Some Hikes

Exploring the Kahuku Unit

For those who simply want to sightsee, there’s the 9-mile (round-trip) scenic drive through the Kahuku Unit, which traverses steep, open pastures juxtaposed against fissures and lava flows from the devastating 1868 eruption. The road connects to most of the unit’s eight hiking trails, which lead through green pastures to volcanic cinder cones, lava tree molds, rainforests and lava flows.

You can explore these trails on excellent ranger-guided hikes (at 9:30am Saturdays and Sundays; advance reservations not required), but you can also enjoy them by yourself Thursday to Sunday (8am to 4pm). Double-check opening hours online as they have been known to change. The most popular trail is the Puʻu o Lokuana Trail, a 2-mile loop following historic ranch roads through verdant pasture lands. After passing lava tree molds, the route wanders around spatter ramparts from Mauna Loa’s 1868 eruption. Follow an abandoned airstrip back to the road and climb the cinder cone that gives this trail its name for some spectacular views. If you don’t want to do the whole trail, join the trail across the street from the landing strip and get to the crater in just a few hundred feet.

The real highlight of the park, though, is the Pit Crater Trail. This strenuous 4.8-mile jaunt (round trip) up an old pasture road culminates at a huge pit crater, a deep bowl full of pristine rainforest looking like the entrance to the underworld. Hikers on this trail must brush off their shoes at the decontamination gate to avoid spreading the spores that cause Rapid ʻŌhiʻa Death. Note that there’s no food available for purchase here, so it’s a great idea to bring in sandwiches from Eagle’s Lighthouse Cafe or the Kīlauea General Store in Volcano.

Although part of the national park, the Kahuku Unit is 42 miles southwest from the main park entrance on Hwy 11. In the Kahuku Unit, the round-trip scenic drive is unpaved, but usually passable just over halfway in a standard car. Beyond the Palm Trail’s upper trailhead, a high-clearance 4WD vehicle is advised, and bikes are prohibited.

Pauahi Crater | Milan van Weelden/Shutterstock ©

HISTORY OF THE KAHUKU UNIT

In 2003, the Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park and the Nature Conservancy jointly bought historic Kahuku Ranch in the biggest conservation land purchase in the state’s history (adding 116,000 acres to the park and increasing its size by over 50%). Previously, Hawaiʻi’s ranching heritage was centered here. It haphazardly began in 1793 when King Kamehameha I received a gift of 12 Texas longhorn cattle. They ran rampant throughout the land eating everything they could reach, and future landowners experimented with goats and mouflon sheep, which continued the destructive legacy. The ranching continued through several owners, including Captain Robert Brown. Today the Kahuku Unit remains a largely wild, undeveloped and under-visited playground for history buffs and nature lovers.

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN & AROUND VOLCANO

Volcano Golf: With a lush setting at the foot of Mauna Loa, this straightforward 18-hole, par-72 course is a local favorite, but never crowded.

Kazumura Cave Tours: Touring the world’s longest continuous lava tube, you’ll climb ladders and walk over loose, rocky terrain. Duration, difficulty and price vary.

Bike Volcano: Bicycles and e-bikes for rent in the heart of Volcano Village, along with guided cycling tours of Hawaiʻi Volcanoes NP.

Aloha Central

Stay at a Volcano B&B

The rainforest setting and kind, creative residents of Volcano Village make this an ideal place to stay a few nights in a B&B. The crème de la crème is Volcano Rainforest Retreat, a property that feels straight out of some tropical Zen fairy tale. Its four elegant cottages have more windows than walls, and are well-secluded among the dense ʻōhiʻa hāpuʻu rainforest. Two of them feature private outdoor Japanese-style soaking tubs while the other two share an outdoor hot tub. The smallest (but our favorite) is the Sanctuary, a hexagonal oasis of 360-degree windows. For added romance, in-room massage can be arranged. A breakfast basket is delivered each morning, and guided group meditations can help center your trip.

For the fine hospitality and cozy fireplace, we also recommend Lava Pond Lodge. The high-ceilinged living area and small library make for relaxing common spaces, and guests stay in three modern and clean rooms in the main house. An above-garage studio with separate lanai (balcony) is a good option for light sleepers who need more privacy, and the front-porch hot tub is a welcome amenity during cooler evenings. Finally, over at Lotus Garden Cottages the White Lotus Suite is outfitted with Asian antiques and a hot tub bathed in abundant natural light. Cedar-plank walls, gas fireplaces, rattan furnishings and tall ceilings round out the adjoining cottages, and the gourmet breakfast consists of quiche, fresh fruit and pastries served by the attentive host.

Hōlei Sea Arch

MORE TOP VOLCANO STAYS

Aloha Junction

Historic plantation-executive’s vacation home. Modern rooms, done up Pottery Barn–style, are cozy and upscale, and the location’s very central. $$

Kīlauea Lodge

A renovated 1930s YMCA camp that supplements history with luxury: chic rooms come with gas fireplaces and Hawaiian quilts, and there’s a garden hot tub. $$$

Holo Holo In

Reliably clean and comfortable hostel with dorm beds and cabin-like private rooms, and friendly vibe in a quiet location. $

Alii Kane Cottages

Cedar cottages and a one-bedroom apartment offer slate floors, full kitchens, bath tubs and lofts – on 4 acres of orchid- and fern-fringed grounds. $

MORE ON RAPID ʻŌHIʻA DEATH

Learn more about Rapid ʻŌhiʻa Death, and what you can do to prevent it.

DRIVING TOUR

Touring the Crater’s Edge

At the center of activity in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, 11-mile paved loop Crater Rim Drive starts at Kīlauea Visitor Center and skirts the rim of Kīlauea’s summit caldera. The trail passes steam vents and rifts, hiking trailheads and amazing views of the smoking crater. You can do this by car or two wheels, but expect to spend some time on foot as well.

Thurston Lava Tube | Andre Nantel/Shutterstock ©

1 Kīlauea Visitor Center & Museum

The visitor center should be your first stop in the park, for advice about volcanic activity, air quality, road closures, hiking-trail conditions and how best to spend your time. Interactive exhibits explain the park’s delicate ecosystem and Hawaiian heritage. The nearby Volcano Art Center is a sharp local art gallery that spotlights museum-quality pottery, paintings, woodwork, sculpture, jewelry, Hawaiian quilts and more in a series of rotating exhibits. Its nonprofit shop, housed in the historic 1877 Volcano House hotel, is worth a visit.

The Drive: Turn right and follow Crater Rim Dr west past the Sulfur Banks, where a wheelchair-friendly boardwalk weaves between vents belching sulfur-infused steam.

2 Steam Vents & Steaming Bluff

If you’re only in it for the photo op, bypass the Sulfur Banks and continue to this viewpoint, where plumes billow in the cool early morning. Hot rocks below the surface boil rainwater as it percolates down, producing the steam. The vents at the parking area are fine, but even more evocative is Steaming Bluff, found along a short walk out to the rim. Here curtains of steam frame the cliffs above a post-apocalyptic landscape.

The Drive: Head 1.5 miles west on Crater Rim Dr, past a turnoff to some lava tree molds (deep wells that formed when flows engulfed the rainforest) to the main event.

3 Kīlauea Overlook

More than just a pause-worthy panorama, this overlook is a front row seat for one of the most active volcanoes in the world. Cranky Kīlauea last erupted in September 2023, and its massive steaming crater-within-a-crater, Halemaʻumaʻu, has spewed lava for much of the last 25 years. How active the volcano will be when you visit is subject to the whims of Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of fire and volcanoes who makes her home here.

The Drive: Double back past the visitor center and continue along Crater Rim Dr, tracing Kīlauea’s eastern side until you see the Kīlauea Iki parking lot on your right.

4 Kīlauea Iki Overlook

When ‘Little Kīlauea’ burst open in a fiery inferno in November 1959, it filled the crater with a roiling lake of molten rock fed by a 1900ft fountain that lit up the night sky, with 2 million gushing tons of lava per hour at its peak. It took over 30 years for the lake to completely solidify. From the overlook, you’ll see the spectacular mile-wide crater and astonishing trail traversing the middle.

The Drive: It’s only 0.3 miles to reach the Thurston Lava Tube, so feel free to drive, bicycle or, better yet, hike through the rainforest.

5 Nāhuku

The 0.3-mile loop through the Thurston Lava Tube (also known as Nāhuku Trail) starts in an ʻōhiʻa forest filled with birdsong, then heads underground through a gigantic (but short) artificially lit lava tube. Nāhuku, as this tube is called in Hawaiian, was ‘discovered’ by controversial figure Lorrin Thurston, the newspaper baron who was instrumental in overthrowing the Kingdom of Hawaii.

DRIVING TOUR

Volcano Village Art, Nature & Wine

Between hikes through lava tubes and around volcanic craters in the national park, take a leisurely drive through fern-festooned and artful Volcano Village next door. Along the way, you’ll breathe the scent of orchids, browse local galleries and sample wine birthed on the slopes of Mauna Loa, and encounter the glass blowers, painters, ceramic artists and craftspeople at the village’s creative heart.

Alvis Upitiss/getty images ©

Orchid

1 Akatsuka Orchid Gardens

Begin your Volcano Village adventure at this long-standing family-owned nursery, where more than 500 blooming orchids make for a visual and olfactory feast of floral hybrids. There’s a tour ($20 per person) at 2pm Wednesday through Friday – don’t miss the $20,000 Lady Slipper Orchid.

The Drive: Turn left on Kahaualeʻa Rd then left on Hwy 11, and it’s just a short drive along the ‘Ōla‘a Forest Reserve before you reach the signed turnoff at Old Volcano Rd.

2 2400 Fahrenheit

The glass sculptures of Michael and Misato Mortara can be found in private collections and museums all over the world, and you can also see them here at the working studio and gallery in Volcano, along with newer endeavors such as one-of-a-kind epoxy-and-hardwood tables and fine jewelry. Gallery hours are 10am to 3pm Thursday through Sunday.

The Drive: Take Old Volcano Rd back to Hwy 11 and head west along the edge of ‘Ōla‘a Forest Reserve. Turn right on Pearl Av, then left on Volcano Rd, and Volcano Garden Arts will be on the left.

3 Volcano Garden Arts

Tucked into an old farmhouse within a fern forest, this art gallery and studio is the place to do your Big Island art shopping. Walls and tables overflow with paintings, handicrafts and jewelry produced by dozens of regional creatives. In addition, the space is surrounded by quiet gardens, where you can get lunch from the neighboring and fabulous Café Ono.

The Drive: Make a left out of the parking lot onto Volcano Rd and continue through the heart of the village. You’ll pass a few restaurants and inns before the art center comes up on the right.

4 Volcano Art Center: Niaulani Campus

On the edge of an old-grown ʻōhiʻa forest, the center’s Niaulani Campus (a satellite of the main Volcano Art Center gallery in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park) showcases spillover and related exhibits unencumbered by the park’s thematic requirements. A monthly changing schedule of workshops and events features local artists.

The Drive: Head west on Hawaiʻi Belt Rd, edging the national park until you reach Piimauna Dr. Hang a right, pass the golf course and soon the winery will appear on the left.

5 Volcano Winery

Grapes from Mauna Loa’s volcanic soil may never erupt onto the world stage, but this unusual winery produces delectable infusions with local fruits, nuts, honey and tea. Tastings ($18 per person) include six pours, and the Hawaiian Guava-Grape and Macadamia Nut Honey Wine are particularly delightful. There are also vineyard tours ($38 per person; six pours) and tea field experiences ($58 per person; three steeps).

OLD KAHUKU RANCH WALKING TOUR

This leg-stretching glimpse into Kaʻū’s past starts at the Kahuku Unit’s 1 Visitor Contact Station, where you’ll find a number of helpful posters and rangers can answer questions. From here you’ll meander through old-growth native ʻōhiʻa trees and cross the main road, then follow the ranch road across the 2 1868 lava flow, which spared the pasture ahead and formed a 3 kipuka, or an oasis, of older land surrounded by new lava. Although now hidden below a dense mat of non-native pasture grass, satellite images reveal an extensive network of rows and mounds where ancient Hawaiians grew ʻuala (sweet potato) and kalo (taro). Exit the kipuka and enter Captain Robert Brown’s nightmare. Having just started ranching at Kahuku less than three years before, Captain Brown was reluctant to vacate when a series of earthquakes devastated surrounding communities in 1868. On the night of April 7, however, the 4 fissure eruption here began gushing lava above his home, forcing his family to flee for higher ground. There they watched as their house and cattle were incinerated. Continue up the lava flow and along the 5 historic airstrip that once serviced the ranch lands; be sure to scan the ground for flashing green specs of the volcanic mineral olivine. Cross the main road again to 6 Pu‘u o Lokuana cinder cone. As you stand on the summit looking up the mountain, try to imagine the surrounding hillsides covered in forest – how it looked before humans harvested koa trees for canoes and sandalwood for market, then cleared the rest for pasture. Return to the 7 Pu‘u o Lokuana Trailhead via the switchbacks on the cone’s south face – or channel your inner child and somersault down the soft grass.

KAʻŪ

RUGGED COASTLINES | RURAL TOWNS | REMOTE BEACHES

ʻThis was the beginning of Hawaiʻi, and it will be the end.’ That’s what they say of Kaʻū, the archipelago’s southernmost district, where Polynesians are thought to have first landed in the 13th century. There’s been little development in this relatively impoverished region, which is defined by macadamia and coffee plantations, forested highlands and an uninhabited stretch of rugged, windswept coastline. Secluded and independent, Kaʻū may be a little rougher around the edges than some visitors are accustomed to, but those with the right attitude and sense of adventure will deeply appreciate this destination.

Come to Kaʻū for the long drives through wide-open countryside, the bountiful farm stands brimming with tropical produce and the beaches layered in unique volcanic sands. Stay for the understated, quiet beauty of the rural towns Nā‘ālehu and Pahala, the abundant historical sites and the off-the-beaten track adventures to even more remote beaches.

Honuʻapo Bay | Alvis Upitis/getty images ©

TOP SIGHTS

1   Green Sand Beach

2   Ka Lae

3   Kahuku Unit

4   Kaʻu Coffee Mill

5   Pali’okūlani Overlook

6   Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach Park

SIGHTS

7   Beyond Organic

8   Boat Hoist

9   Henry Opukahaʻia Chapel

Honuʻapo Bay Overlook (see 21)

10   Kalalea Heiau

11   Kamaoa Wind Farm

12   Kaneʻeleʻele Heiau

13   Kāwā Bay

14   Lua ʻO Palehemo

15   Manukā State Wayside & Natural Area Reserve

16   Mark Twain Monkeypod Tree

17   Morse Field

18   Ninole Hills

19   Road to the Sea

20   Whittington Beach Park

21   Wood Valley Temple

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

22   Kula Kai Caverns

SLEEPING

23   Kalaekilohana

24   Patty’s Motel Cabins

Wood Valley Guesthouse (see 22)

EATING

Hana Hou Restaurant (see 24)

25   Ka-Lae Garden

26   Kaʻū Farmers Market

27   Manadina Farm

28   Punaluʻu Bake Shop

Taco Tita (see 24)

29   Tai Shan Farms

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

30   Ka Lae Coffee

ENTERTAINMENT

Kaʻu Coffee Festival (see 4)

SHOPPING

31   Paradise Meadows Orchard & Bee Farm

GETTING AROUND

While Hele-On Bus services do circumnavigate the island, around here the schedules are infrequent and inconvenient for visitors. A standard car will get you most places you want to go, but 4WD expands your exploration options considerably.

TOP TIP

Don’t rush through. The highlights of Kaʻū take a little more time to reach, and are best appreciated with a picnic and plenty of time to spare. Also, when driving the scenic and remote roads out here, be sure to bring anything and everything you might need.

FARM STANDS & MARKETS

Kaʻū Farmers Market: A small farmers market selling crafts and produce sets up at Niu St and Mamalahoa Hwy on Wednesday and Saturday.

Beyond Organic: Daily open-air farmers market selling Macadamia nut products, Kaʻū coffee and fruit. The soulful owners like to chat.

Cooper Center Farmers Market: The whole community comes to this Sunday market to buy farm-fresh produce, local crafts and snacks.

Hawaiian History 101

Journey into a lava tube

Led by conservationists and scholars with deep passion for Hawaiian history and ecology, the compelling Kula Kai Caverns tours bring visitors on journeys through 1000-year-old lava tubes within the Kipuka Kanohina Cave System, one of the longest enterable cave systems in the world. The subterranean caverns are owned by Cave Conservancy of Hawai‘i and contain fascinating artifacts, including stone tools, kukui nut lamps and poi pounders (rocks for beating taro root into a paste). Exploring these caves feels like a form of time travel, and guides are skilled at describing the ways ancient Hawaiians made use of them.

You’ll need to reserve in advance to receive the code and enter the Ocean View neighborhood where tours are held. Options include a basic ‘lighted trail tour,’ which lasts about an hour and requires scaling or descending 75 stairs, but is suitable for children ($28/18 per adult/child). ‘The Crawl’ ($60 per person) involves donning helmets, lights, knee pads and gloves and spelunking through braided tunnels and passageways over about an hour. An extended version lasts two hours ($95/$65 per adult/child). There’s also an ‘archaeological tour’ ($34/$18 per adult/child) which emphasizes how ancient Hawaiians used lava tubes as shelter while traveling, and brought in hollowed-out gourds to catch water that dripped from the ceilings.

There’s on-going scientific research in the caves and guides emphasize respectful stewardship of these ʻliving museums.’ Over the last two decades, the Cave Conservancy of Hawaiʻi (hawaiicaves.com) has purchased and protected more than 84 acres and mapped dozens of miles of lava tubes.

OTHER NATURAL ATTRACTIONS

Whittington Beach Park

Northeast of Nā‘ālehu, this small park has tide pools, an ancient Hawaiian fishpond frequented by birds, and the ruins of a historic pier.

Manukā State Wayside & Natural Area Reserve

A 13-acre reserve offering a pleasant 2-mile nature trail through transitional forest to a volcanic crater.

Mark Twain Monkeypod Tree

Legend has it that the author originally planted this tree near Waiʻōhinu city park. A hurricane claimed it, but this beauty re-sprouted from its roots.

BEST PLACES TO EAT

Hana Hou Restaurant: A family diner in Nā‘ālehu serving up American and Hawaiian comfort food and desserts. $

Taco Tita: A Mexican joint in Nā‘ālehu serving up tacos, burritos, nachos and taco salads. Salsa varies from mild Chipotle to scorching Scorpion – yowza! $

Tai Shan Farms: Lovingly prepared farm-to-table grub and live music in an open-air pavilion on a dragon-fruit farm in Ocean View. $$

An Olivine Dream

Explore Green Sand Beach

Tinted by volcanic forces, this secluded, rugged and legendary stretch of sand is less green than you might expect, but infinitely more beautiful. The olive-colored sand of Green Sand Beach (officially known as Papakōlea) on Mahana Bay sparkles in the sun, while the surrounding cliffs resemble stacks of pancakes, having been eroded over time by relentless wind and turquoise waves. As with many of the world’s rare and beautiful places, getting here is definitely a challenge – but also part of the draw.

You’ll drive in on a lonely two-lane road through Hawaiʻi’s undeveloped and rural southern outskirts. Take the left (east) fork of South Point Rd, some 10 miles from Hwy 11 to the old barracks. Park here (don’t leave any valuables in your car) to begin the 2.5-mile hike to the beach. It’s dusty, hot and exposed the entire way, so you’ll need plenty of water and sun protection. You should strongly consider going early or late in the day or when it’s overcast; this will not only help prevent dehydration but also help you beat the crowds.

Start the hike by heading south to the Kaulana boat ramp, then veer left (east) following the coastline. The unceasing winds will sandblast your face, making the trip feel twice as far as it is. Upon arrival, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views over Mahana Bay. After an exciting scramble down a steep stairway built into the cliff, you can scoop some of the green sand up and contemplate its origins: the olivine crystals formed around 49,000 years ago with the eruption of Pu’u Mahana, a cinder cone volcano whose lava spewed down into the sea. Then, powerful waves eroded the hardened lava over thousands of years, and the relatively heavy element olivine stayed behind on the beach.

In the parking lot and along your hike, you will notice some locals shuttling tourists to and from the beach in the backs of their trucks. This off-road driving is illegal and destructive to the coastal ecosystems, along with ancient cultural sites. Deep ruts and dirt paths created by the vehicles have harmed sensitive dune plants such as ohai, a native shrub with orange and red blossoms. In addition, loose dirt kicked up by vehicular traffic eventually makes its way to the ocean, where it prevents coral reefs from obtaining needed sunlight. The region is sacred, for the dunes contain iwi kupuna (ancient Hawaiian bones) that aren’t meant to be disturbed. Don’t take the ride.

Don’t take any sand, either, and think twice before swimming at the beach. It’s OK if the surf is calm, and extremely dangerous when it’s not. People have died here.

SOUTH POINT’S BOAT HOIST

Bolted to the top of the 40ft cliffs on the western edge of South Point, a boat hoist provides access to small fishing vessels bobbing in the sheltered waters below. Just inland, peer into the large puka (hole) to spy on the ocean raging upward and receding with the waves – a reminder of how dangerous the swells can be. The boat hoist also provides certain visitors with an irresistible urge to fling themselves off the end of the earth. Well, the end of the US anyway. This is not a good idea, particularly on days when the conditions are rough. The ladder is rickety and frequently broken, and the current is strong; if you’re swept away, the next stop is Antarctica.

COFFEE IN NĀ‘ĀLEHU & PAHALA

Ka Lae Coffee: An institution in downtown Nā‘ālehu specializing in 100% Ka‘ū coffee grown locally on the owners’ family farm

Ka‘ū Coffee Mill: A down-to-earth Pahala coffee farm that roasts its own award-winning beans and gives free tours on weekdays.

Ka‘ū Coffee Festival: In June, Pahala wakes up with a strong brew of music, coffee, hula, coffee-farm and mill tours, farm-to-fork food and even stargazing.

Turtles, Temple Ruins & Volcanic Sand

Start your day at a black sand beach

Once an ancient Hawaiian settlement, Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach Park is now an uninhabited black-sand beach flanked by temple ruins. The windswept area is frequented by endangered hawksbill and green sea turtles and famous for its dark sand: pulverized basalt from Mauna Loa eruptions that absorb and reflect the sunlight in a mesmerizing scene encircled by tilting palm trees. The rough, cold waters and undertows frequently make swimming undesirable, but a lifeguard is posted and when it’s calm, snorkeling is a treat.

The name Punaluʻu means ‘spring dived for,’ and legend tells us that in times of drought, Hawaiians would collect fresh water bubbling up beneath the bay by plunging under the waves with empty upturned gourds. The northern part of the beach is backed by a duck pond and the remains of an old resort: a rotting testimony to local economics and the antidevelopment movement. Near the park restrooms, a small rock wall protects easy-to-miss petroglyphs. The ruins of the Pahala Sugar Company’s old warehouse and pier lie on the northeast edge of the bay. The pier was intentionally destroyed during WWII to prevent the Japanese from landing on the unguarded coast. Above it, Kaneʻeleʻele Heiau – an 800-year-old site of human sacrifice – keeps a watchful eye over the land.

Come in the early morning since the beach park quickly fills with picnickers and tour buses. Camping is allowed with an advance county permit. There are two signed turnoffs for Punaluʻu between mile markers 56 and 57 on Hwy 11.

Green Sand Beach | Alexandre.ROSA/shutterstock ©

THE BIG ISLAND’S BIG ONE

The largest earthquake in the Big Island’s recorded history took place on April 2, 1868. After several days of tremors and an eruption on Mauna Loa’s summit, the southeast flank of the island slipped toward the ocean, causing a 7.9 magnitude earthquake. The quake flattened every building in Kaʻū and triggered a 50ft tsunami that swept coastal fishing villages out to sea, killing some 46 people. A massive mudslide near Wood Valley traveled 3 miles seaward, burying 30 people and their homes and livestock. Aftershocks from the quake continued until April 7, when a 2-mile-long crack opened along Mauna Loa’s Southwest Rift Zone, releasing fissure eruptions. Lava poured down the mountainside, reaching the ocean 10 miles away in less than three hours.

MORE HISTORICAL SITES

Kamaoa Wind Farm: The rusty carcasses of 37 windmills from the failed Kamaoa wind farm lie next to their foundations along South Point Rd.

Morse Field: The landing strip here was a fuel stop for a trans-Pacific air ferry route until the attack on Pearl Harbor. Barracks foundations and a runway scar remain.

Henry Opukahaʻia Chapel: A chapel dedicated to Punaluʻu resident, Henry Opukahaʻia, whose conversion to Christianity inspired a wave of missionaries.

The Spiritual Side of Kaʻū

Temples, shrines and heiau

It’s impossible to explore the rural district of Kaʻū without stumbling on some seriously spiritual places, be it a Buddhist temple, a shrine to the sea or a place of human sacrifice. Just outside Pahala, you’ll find the cheerful Wood Valley Temple, a Tibetan Buddhist structure and 25-acre forested retreat center. Visitors join chanting (11am Sunday) or just visit the temple and gift shop. A meditative guesthouse lets you stay a few nights, which the Dalai Lama did in 1980 and 1994.

Down on South Point, the Kalalea Heiau is a testament to the area’s important fishing grounds. Ancient Hawaiians left offerings here in return for a bountiful catch. Some still do today, although their angling methods have changed. Look for salt pans in the area: depressions carved in the rocks where fishermen would evaporate ocean water then use the remaining salt to cure their catch.

Finally, the Kaneʻeleʻele Heiau (also referred to as Punaluʻu Nui and located at Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach) is an 800-year-old luakani (place of human sacrifice). A large flat stone below the southwest corner of the temple walls is believed to have served this purpose, and a pit full of bones discovered during construction of nearby sugar warehouses seemed to confirm that. Reach the heiau by following a short steep trail up above the warehouse foundations at the northeast corner of the beach park. It’s not easy to spot. Look for a path heading east from the heiau paved with smooth gray stones set to ease the journey of barefoot warriors over the aʻa (rough, jagged type of lava).

Green sea turtle, Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach Park | kuma/shutterstock ©

KĀWĀ BAY’S SURF HISTORY

Once disputed territory plagued with coastal-access and land-rights issues, Kāwā Bay is now a quiet, pebbly cove protected as public land. It’s bounded by a creek and cliff-top heiau (temple) on one side, and Kaʻalaiki, the island’s second-largest freshwater spring system and fishpond estuary, on the other. It’s a peaceful place to picnic, and because surf breaks are hard to come by in Kaʻū, this spot (sometimes called Windmills) is the local go-to. Go with a local. Or channel Nuʻuanupaʻahu, the Kaʻū chief who honed his legendary surfing skills here; skills that allowed him to survive shark attacks and win the respect of his rival, Kalaniopuʻu (though the latter did later die from his wounds).

PLACES TO STAY

Green Sands Oasis: Rustic, colorful cabins featuring tropic decor, tucked into the Hawaiian countryside. They’re not fancy but they come with aloha. $

Patty’s Motel Cabins: Accommodation pickings are slim in Nā‘ālehu, but these two clean, if older, rooms behind Hana Hou Restaurant are a fine option. $$

Kalaekilohana: A sophisticated, away-from-it-all inn with a wide porch, a library and music room and luxe rooms featuring private lanai. Wonderful hosts. $$$

An Off-Roading Beach Adventure

Take the Road to the Sea

At the end of a rugged 6-mile drive, remote black- and green-sand beaches set before looming cliffs and cinder cones are beacons for true adventurers. The high-clearance 4WD road may cross enough ʻaʻa to shake your fillings loose – and you may find after all the trouble of getting here that the sea is too rough to swim, and the beach too windy to enjoy. Still, this trip into the volcanic ‘great beyond’ is worth it for the scenery alone, and you should drive it now because there’s talk of someday paving the road.

To find the Road to the Sea, turn makai (seaward) off Hwy 11 at the row of mailboxes between Miles 79 and 80. From there it’s 6 miles of rudimentary, seemingly never-ending lava that most high-clearance vehicles can handle, but you’ll definitely want a 4WD at Mile 3.1 where the road drops off a lava bench. It takes about 45 minutes or so to reach the first green-sand beach, depending on how rough you like your ride. Another 0.5 miles to the east (hike it unless you have a rock-crawler) an incongruous tree provides shade over a bleached coral beach. To the west, a series of littoral cones (mounds of tephra formed as hot lava explosively boils in to the ocean), coves and fishponds provide unending coastal exploration. Bring as much water as you can carry because it can be a mercilessly hot and shadeless walk in any direction.

BEST VIEWPOINTS

Paliʻokulani Overlook

Perched on a 1907 lava flow, this overlook takes in the ragged cliff edge jutting out in front of South Point, and a rift zone extending out to sea.

Honuʻapo Bay Overlook

The scenic lookout above Honuʻapo Bay northeast of Nā‘ālehu has views of the longest stretch of undeveloped coast in Hawaii.

Lua ʻO Palehemo

Offers a commanding view of Kaʻū’s east and west regions meeting along the flank of massive Mauna Loa.

DRIVING TOUR

South Point

It’s worth making this drive for the bracing sea air and clifftop views alone (and the wind turbines, for the renewable energy nerds). But it also comes with bragging rights: you’ve gone as far south as is possible before you fall off the edge of the US. Start your odometer where South Point Rd turns off Hwy 11, in a semi-forested area where residents continue a long tradition of agriculture.

Ka Lae | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

1 Paradise Meadows Orchard & Bee Farm

This 75-acre farm packs a lot in, offering free samples of locally produced coffee, honey and macadamia nuts (and chocolate-covered versions). Do the guided tour ($15) for a look at engineered sustainability, or a more casual self-guided one. You’ll meet rescue parrots and there’s locally sourced lunch at the tasty cafe.

The Drive: Cruise 10 miles south over the easternmost finger of the infamous 1868 lava flow, past a satellite tracking station and a couple of wind farms.

2 Ka Lae

Park at the end of the road and hike the rest of the way to the southernmost tip of the Big Island, Ka Lae. ‘The Point’ appropriately feels like the end of the Earth, and it was here that the first Polynesian sailors likely made landfall. Although archaeologists believe it was consistently occupied since, today it’s a mostly vacant landscape with a lofty cliff taunting your inner daredevil.

The Drive: Double back to the north and then turn right where South Point Rd forks. Soon you’ll reach the parking lot for the Green Sand Beach.

3 Green Sand Beach

Hawaii’s famous and rare Green Sand Beach (Papakōlea) is absolutely worth seeing. But to do it right, you’ll need to leave your vehicle behind, and also pass on the convenient ride in the back of a local truck. The coastal dune ecosystem out here is fragile. To behold these volcanic sands, which are green thanks to the mineral olivine, hike (instead of driving) to the beach.

The Drive: Head back north the way you came, back past the wind farms and the satellite tracking station, and this time stop in at the farm stand.

4 Farm Stand

Don’t be alarmed at the cow skulls displayed on a post out front – this nameless farm stand at 93-1280 South Point Rd rules. They’ve got Spam musubi (grilled Spam over rice), coconut water, banana bread, hot dogs, sodas and more, and the service is pure aloha.

The Drive: Continue the rest of the way north to Hwy 11 and hang a left toward ocean view. Soon you’ll approach a pullout where other cars are parked; go there.

5 Pali‘okūlani Overlook

Complete the drive with a commanding view of the escarpment that forms the southernmost tip of Hawaiʻi running from highway to sea. Pali‘okūlani (pali means ‘cliff’) was formed when the land west of the Kahuku fault either slid into the ocean, or possibly just sunk in place (geologists disagree). At the base, fishhooks left behind by the ancient settlement of Waiʻahukini proved that the earliest settlers came from the Marquesas Islands.

DRIVING TOUR

Ka‘alaiki Road

For an elevated look at central Kaʻū’s quiet, pastoral side, take what locals refer to as the ‘high road’ from Nā‘ālehu to Pahala. It’s real name is Kaʻalaiki Rd (or Old Cane Haul Rd), and the paved two-laner crosses rocky cascades between verdant hills with commanding sea views. You’ll find coffee farms, macadamia nut plantations and a eucalyptus farm. Best of all, you’ll likely have it to yourself.

Eucalyptus forest | Ty King/shutterstock ©

1 Nā‘ālehu

Begin in tiny Nā‘ālehu, the island’s southernmost town. Although the name means ‘Volcanic Ashes,’ Naʻalehu is a greenscape filled with sprawling trees, pastel-colored plantation houses and the beautiful but boarded-up Naʻalehu Theatre, giving it a lost-in-time rural feel. The town is central Kaʻū’s commercial hub with a few markets, restaurants and services.

The Drive: After cruising around and taking in the town and working up an appetite, head west on the Mamalahoa Hwy and hang a right on Puluala St. The Punalu‘u Bake Shop is on your right.

2 Punaluʻu Bake Shop

The town’s biggest attraction is this bakery. Order the malasada, Portuguese fried sweet pastries that come in delicious flavors like guava, liliko‘i (passion fruit) and mango. Enjoy with a smoothie or coffee in the picnic area, browse the Hawaiiana in the gift shop and take some baked goods to go. Arrive very early to beat the crowd.

The Drive: Turn right out of Punaluʻu Bake Shop onto Puluala St and then make another right onto Ka‘alaiki Rd, heading north. Soon you’ll pass the Nā‘ālehu Cemetery on your left, and cows will start to appear as well.

3 Manadina Farm

After about 3 miles, this food forest and farm-to-table restaurant comes into view on the right. Call ahead for a guided food forest tour any weekday, or stop in on Tuesdays, Thursdays or Fridays for lunch. On Saturday evenings there’s a tasting menu, oftentimes involving kālua pig, breadfruit and taro.

The Drive: Continue along Ka‘alaiki Rd past the ridgetop Nā‘ālehu Radar Station, which provides weather data for the district and helps with air-traffic control. The views of the ocean become increasingly epic.

4 Ninole Hills

Glance to the north for a view of the eroded Ninole Hills, oddities from Mauna Loa’s geologic past that long puzzled scientists for their relatively old age – which you can see by the gulches and creeks not normally found in younger, porous lava rock. Recent studies of the gravity around here have determined that the 125,000-year-old hills once made up the Southwest Rift Zone.

The Drive: Continue along the road over narrow bridges and stream beds, past coffee plantations and eucalyptus forests. Views toward the ocean remain stunning.

5 Pahala

Pahala’s quiet streets are mostly lined with unrestored early-20th-century plantation houses occupied by former sugar plantation workers. While Hawaii’s sugar boom was coming to an end, the lands around here still managed to produce record yields – but that only helped for so long. In the mid-1990s, forced to choose between pay cuts or the mill closing, the workers chose the latter.

Kohala & Waimea

ANCIENT HAWAIIAN CULTURE, RESORTS AND WINDSWEPT VISTAS

Stark contrasts characterize this northerly region – seaside resorts give way to rural towns amid rolling ranchlands, and vertiginous vistas are interspersed with the remnants of significant Native Hawaiian sites.

Pololū Valley | Chris Finch Photography/Shutterstock ©

Dormant Kohala, the oldest of the island’s five volcanoes, has an enticing split personality. Along the coast, dry, hot lava deserts mingle with velvety white sand and fulfill the stereotypical Hawaiian beach scene. Waterfall-backed deep valleys line its northernmost tip. In the interior, elevated terrain reveals the grassy hills of cattle country – the wind picks up, the air is cooler and yet the sun still bakes, and the white-capped waves of the Pacific unspool in the distance.

South Kohala’s palm-fringed oases amid black-lava desert are where you’ll find most of the island’s amenity-laden resorts and neighborhoods of multi-million-dollar homes. A significant (if a bit unsightly) industrial port in the coastal crook at Kohala’s base connects West Hawaiʻi with the outside world. It’s within sight of Puʻukoholā Heiau, a towering 18th-century temple base built to fulfill a wartime prophecy.

In the central uplands, the town of Waimea (Kamuela) straddles the wet/dry ecosystem divide, and beckons visitors into the rural north with its unique paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) culture. The quaint, community-oriented villages of the northern coast, steeped in the sugar plantation style of the region’s more recent past, are the gateway to the island’s show-stopping coastal valleys. This wild and agricultural region hides remnants of some of the island’s oldest and most significant cultural sites, including the homelands of King Kamehameha, training grounds for seagoing voyagers, and sacred heiau (temples) where blood sacrifices were offered to the gods.

Kohala Coast | Horizon International Images/Alamy Stock Photo ©

THE MAIN AREAS

WAIKŌLOA RESORT AREA

Accommodations, shopping, beaches and bars.

WAIMEA

Paniolo and art culture, plus first-rate dining.

HAWI

Tiny town en route to Pololū Valley.

Find Your Way

Despite Kohala’s considerable size – most of O‘ahu could fit in its nearly 500 sq miles – there are few roads and large swaths remain inaccessible. Most resorts sit on the coast some 20 miles north of Kona International Airport; from there Hawi and Waimea are each a 40-minute drive.

Plan Your Time

Explore Kohala’s scenic highlights in a day, or take more time to hunt for petroglyphs and hidden temple ruins and swim in clear blue waters.

Petroglyphs | Evelyn Jackson/Shutterstock ©

With Just One Day

Stop at Puʻukoholā Heiau, an 18th-century temple, en route to tiny Hawi. Continue north to snap a photo with the formerly sunken statue of King Kamehameha. The road ends at Pololū Valley where a mile-long trail descends to its black pebble shore. Return via Kohala Mountain Road, cruising through rolling green pasturelands to Waimea where abundant dining options await.

Two or More Days

Spend time deciphering the massive array of mysterious rock etchings within Puakō Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve and sunbathing at Hāpuna Beach. Wander back through time via Lapakahi State Historical Park. Afternoon fun can be had at Waimea’s Gallery of Great Things or Hawi’s Kohala Zipline, then catch a show at the Kahilu Theatre.

Seasonal highlights

SPRING

Puʻukoholā Heiau has one of the island’s best vantages for seasonal whale watching. In Waimea, cherry blossoms are celebrated in an annual heritage festival.

SUMMER

Warm, dry and windy. Tradewinds reach peak this time of year and are strongest in Kohala.

FALL

Endemic wiliwili trees display showy orange flowers in Kohala’s lowland dry forest; corresponds with tiger shark mating season, a good time to skip surfing.

WINTER

High tourist season. Seasonal storms bring offshore wave action. Resorts and towns celebrate the festive season with lights, parades and music.

WAIKŌLOA RESORT AREA

RESORT LIFE | SANDY BEACHES | BLACK LAVA DESERT

Just under 20 miles north of Kona International Airport, the Waikōloa Beach Resort area announces itself along the main highway with a strip of palm-lined green smack in the middle of a black lava desert (the product of an 1859 Mauna Loa eruption). Home to the bulk of the island’s large resorts, high-end condominiums and timeshares, many visitors will spend a significant amount of time here. A handful of more upscale resorts and communities are spaced out north along the coast.

Open-air shopping plazas, restaurants and ice-cream parlors, public beaches, golf courses and even a dine-in movie theater (serving poke!) add to the resorts’ already plentiful on-property amenities. Tucked throughout the landscaping are cultural sites, including natural anchialine pools and fishponds, petroglyph-dotted boulders, and traditional footpaths – a smattering of necessary reminders that you’re not just at a Hilton, but a Hilton in Hawaii. While it’s possible to spend an entire vacation in the resort area we’d absolutely recommend venturing beyond.

TOP SIGHTS

1   Hāpuna Beach State Recreation Area

2   Mauna Kea Beach

3   Waialea Beach

SIGHTS

4   ʻAnaehoʻomalu Beach Park

5   Puakō Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

6   Ocean Sports

Spa Without Walls (see 7)

SLEEPING

7   Fairmont Orchid

8   Hilton Waikōloa Village

9   Waikōloa Beach Marriott

EATING

Binchotan Bar & Grill (see 7)

10   Brown’s Beach House

11   Foster’s Kitchen

12   Lava Lava Beach Club

Nui Italian (see 8)

13   Roy’s Waikōloa Bar & Grill

SHOPPING

14   Queens’ Marketplace

GETTING AROUND

Free resort shuttles connect points within the immediate vicinity; book with an independent operator for transfers to and from Kona International Airport. Unless you’re on an organized tour, rental cars make the most sense to explore the region, but expect to pay to park at the resorts.

TOP TIP

The Waikōloa Resort Area – encompassing Waikōloa Beach Resort Area, Puakō, Hāpuna Beach and several northerly resorts – spans some 8 miles along Queen Ka‘ahumanu Hwy. Note that Waikōloa Beach Resort and the Waikōloa Resort Area are not the same as Waikōloa Village, a residential community mauka (up the mountain) and inland.

An Easygoing Resort Life

Hidden Hawaii amid the hotels

Staying in a resort and don’t want to spend your days driving? Here’s an easy way to get a taste of the island within a 15-minute driving radius of most properties and without leaving the Waikōloa Resort Area. Start off the day outdoors. Take a stroll or hit the old-school wooden calisthenics circuit on the far north end of ‘Aaneho‘omalu Bay (A-Bay). The earlier you’re there the better chances you have of catching an iconic Hawaii sight: the local outrigger canoe club at morning practice. If you’re feeling inspired to head offshore, the usually calm waters are perfect for beginner stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) and kayaking; for gear head to Ocean Sports fronting the Marriott. Spas and sleeping in more your thing? The Spa Without Walls at the Fairmont Orchid hotel offers luxurious versions of traditional Hawaiian lomilomi massage.

Once fully relaxed, strap on sturdy shoes and search for ancient Hawaiian art. Petroglyphs are scattered in lava flow remnants in road medians and golf courses here; morning guided tours departing the Kings’ Shops help connect the dots but do yourself a favor and also visit Puakō Petrogylph Archaeological Preserve. Often overlooked, it’s among the most concentrated and plentiful collections of the rock carvings in all Hawai‘i. Take a water bottle to sprinkle on the stones for higher contrast viewing.

Time a March visit with the annual ‘Ukulele Festival featuring three stages of world-class performances, demos and ‘uke-related events at both of the outdoor shopping plazas. If you can’t, check the Queens’ Marketplace event calendar for lessons with Nā Hōkū Hanohano (think Hawaiian Grammys) award-winning tutor Kris Fuchigami; ‘ukuleles provided. At sunset, play lawn games, local brew in hand, at Lava Lava Beach Club. Tables can be hard to come by so seek dinner elsewhere. Foster’s Kitchen is a solid option offering American fare with island ingredients – Hāmākua mushrooms, Kona coffee rubbed steaks, Maui onions, local ahi and liliko‘i (passionfruit) barbecue sauce.

Hāpuna Beach State Recreation Park | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

STAYING IN THE WAIKŌLOA RESORT AREA

Waikōloa Beach Marriott: Set back from ʻAnaehoʻomalu Bay, this hotel is all about the water – it boasts restored fishponds and three dreamy pools. $$$

Hilton Waikōloa Village: You’ll love or hate the theme-park features of this mega-hotel with artificial saltwater lagoons and trams. $$

Fairmont Orchid: Elegant and almost formal (for Hawaiʻi), the Orchid never lets you forget that you’re at an exclusive, luxury hotel. $$$

MOONLIGHT MUSIC

Guests staying at the Mauna Lani resort with weekend visits near the full moon are in for a special treat. That’s when longtime residents and local legends gather around the porch of the old cottage near the restored fishponds for Twilight at Kalahuipuaʻa, an informal ‘talk story’ and kanikapila (jam session) that can go on for hours with singing and dancing. The vibe is like hanging out in your musical uncle’s backyard.

EATING IN THE WAIKŌLOA RESORT AREA

Lava Lava Beach Club: A favorite spot for bare-foot snacking on coconut shrimp, ginger-crusted ahi with ponzu and some killer burgers. $$

Brown’s Beach House: A standout for island cuisine using local ingredients – the surf and turf features locally raised beef and Kona lobsters. $$$

Roy’s Waikōloa Bar & Grill: Always bustling, Roy’s serves up main courses such as blackened ahi with pickled ginger. $$$

A Beach Day

The Big Island’s best sandy shores

Despite the size of Hawai‘i’s coastline, virtually all of the island’s sugary shores are located in South Kohala. Kaunaʻoa Beach, more commonly known as Mauna Kea Beach, is perhaps the region’s most coveted white sandy spot for lounging seaside. This curved, uncrowded stretch of sea is ideal for swimming, snorkeling and SUP. Come evening, there are opportunities to snorkel with manta rays on a guided tour. Access is through the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel; free shoreline parking for non-guests is limited to 13 spots – to snag one, get here early or after the first wave of visitors has left in the late afternoon.

A little over a half-mile north of Mauna Kea Beach, the smaller and more secluded Mauʻumae Beach is another uncrowded sandy choice. Protected from larger swells by the coastline’s curves, it’s a local secret and great spot for relaxing, swimming and snorkeling. The most direct access is also via the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel – follow the old coastal road via the second right after passing through the resort gate, over two wooden bridges, and park by telephone pole number 22 on the left where a small path leads to the shore. Parking is limited to 10 spots. You can also park at Spencer Beach Park a quarter mile north and hike in.

The island’s longest strip of white sand at Hāpuna Beach State Recreation Park has more convenient parking, plus public restrooms and picnic areas. It’s a short, paved stroll from the parking lot, past the pavilions and onto the powdery sand. Its relaxed vibe (despite its popularity for family barbecues and birthday parties) and soft stretch of shoreline makes a great case as one of the island’s best beaches. Be sure to pack a sun umbrella – while picnic areas are shaded, they are set away from the shore and the beach itself is completely exposed. When the wind kicks up and whips the sand around, Hāpuna can be downright uncomfortable.

Continuing a short drive south, Waialea Beach (Beach 69) has a rocky bottom but shaded, semi-private coves and soft sand. Head left for more privacy beneath the kiawe trees, where some look like they are growing sideways. Offshore reefs offer good snorkeling – in addition to fish, honu (green sea turtles) are common here. Getting to Waialea Beach is also possible via a short hike from Hāpuna Beach’s southern end. The route is part of the island’s Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail, a coastal trail network of 175 miles that spans multiple ahupua‘a (traditional land divisions) and encompasses ancient Hawaiian cultural sites.

BEST RESORT DINING

Manta

Excellent breakfast and fine-dining dinners specializing in seafood – including several preparations of sustainably farmed Kona kampachi. At the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. $$$

Nui Italian

Within the massive Hilton Waikōloa Village, this dinner-only authentic Italian restaurant serves thick-crust Roman pizza made with three-day proofed dough. Reservations required for non-guests, but parking is free. $$

Binchotan Bar & Grill

Almost everything’s made for sharing at this northern Japanese robatayaki grill joint at the Fairmont Orchid hotel. Choose from small plates and family-style platters. Hand-rolled sushi is a highlight but not always offered. $$$

Beyond Waikōloa Resort Area

Ancient temples, rare ecosystems, a strangely charming industrial port town and more are within a 45-minute drive of Waikōloa’s resorts.

Hardened pāhoehoe (smooth-flowing lava) and jumbled ‘a‘a (rough, jagged lava) blanket the landscape and cup the manicured resort properties against a sparkling blue green sea. Further north along the windswept coast, where South Kohala transitions to North Kohala, sits the boulder rock remnants of one of islands’ most storied temples at Pu‘ukoholā Heiau National Historical Site. Just beyond, several small boat harbors give way to the small town of Kawaihae, home to a significant industrial port serving all of West Hawaii. Inland and up the mountain from the resort region is Waikōloa Village, a residential community with panoramic ocean views and gateway to a one of the islands’ rarer ecosystems – the dry forest.

GETTING AROUND

You’ll need a car to get to the lesser-visited areas outside the resort area. Most rental companies operate from Kona International Airport, a 20-minute drive south, though resorts can help arrange one. Car shares (like Turo) are increasingly an option; ride shares have very limited presence here. Many visitors are surprised by the traffic backlog along Queen Ka‘ahumanu Hwy heading into Kailua-Kona from the resort area each day – plan for an extra 30 minutes if you’re traveling around rush hour (7:30am to 9am and 4pm to 6pm).

Waikōloa Village TIME FROM WAIKŌLOA RESORT AREA: 15 MINS

Explore and restore Hawaii’s dry forest ecosystem

A short drive inland from the resort area, where invasive brown fountain grass and jumbled lava rock dominate, you’ll find the Waikōloa Dry Forest Initiative, just outside of the residential town of Waikōloa Village. Though it may not look like much, this site is one of the last remaining plots of Hawaii’s lowland dry forest ecosystem. Rare and culturally significant native plants – four endemic species of fragrant sandalwood; centuries-old wiliwili trees whose lightweight wood was once used to make the original surfboards; and plants such as the purple flowering ‘āwikiwiki, whose vine was used in traditional medicine and woven to make fishnets – eke out an existence in an area that gets less than than 15in of rainfall each year. In February the annual Wiliwili Festival here features food vendors, guided hikes and educational exhibits.

Located at around 1000ft of elevation on the slopes between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, and altered over time by natural and unnatural processes, the landscape is considered degraded and in need of restoration. That’s where you come in. Year-round, on the mornings on the second and fourth Saturdays of each month, the 275-acre dry forest preserve opens its gates to volunteers who help build educational trails, maintain fences to keep out feral goats, clear invasive plants, collect native seeds and plant out native species to return the ecosystem to its former glory. All necessary tools are provided, but advance registration is required. If you can’t make it for a designated volunteer day, consider signing up for one of their donation-based monthly Friday sunset tours that help to fund restoration efforts. The preserve entrance is reached via Quarry Rd in Waikōloa Village. Stay to the right and follow the gravel road to the entrance gate.

Palila | Brian Mabry/500px/getty images ©

BIRD TRAIL

A related and equally rare Hawaiian ecosystem is another 23 miles (around 35 minutes’ drive) inland to the slopes of Mauna Kea. There, at 8000ft, you’ll find the upland dry forest ecosystem home to māmane trees. If you’re lucky, you may spot critically endangered palila birds too. The ultra-rare yellow-headed birds count on the seeds of the yellow flowering trees as their main source of sustenance, and māmane forests are increasingly hard to find. In fact, palila can only be found in this ecosystem on this volcano’s slopes, making them one of the planet’s rarest birds.

To spot one, grab some binoculars and head to the Palila Forest Discovery Trail in the Ka‘ohe Game Management Area. You’ll want a 4WD vehicle to navigate unpaved portions of the route. This high up, you’ll notice a temperature difference too, so bring a jacket and long pants for this excursion. Good luck!

DRINKING IN WAIKŌLOA: COFFEE

Island Vintage Coffee: An islands-wide chain (also in Japan) serving 100% Kona coffee alongside acai bowls and beans bagged to go. In the King’s Shops.

Mauna Lani Coffee Co: This trendy locally owned coffee-house-style cafe serves pastries, breakfast sandwiches and lunch bites at the Shops at Mauna Lani.

Island Lava Java: Fresh squeezed juices and smoothies as well as a full breakfast and lunch menu alongside Lava-Love frappés. In the Waikōloa Highlands Center.

Kawaihae TIME FROM WAIKŌLOA RESORT AREA: 15 MINS

Visit one of Hawaii’s last great temples

Driving toward the port town of Kawaihae, where South Kohala transitions to North Kohala, it’s hard to miss the massive stone structure looming large on a seaside hill. Once adorned with wooden ki‘i (god statues) and several large, thatched structures, the foundation is all that remains of Pu’ukoholā Heiau, a significant luakini heiau (human sacrifice temple), built in 1790 by King Kamehameha the Great.

Today a National Historic Site, you can walk right up to its stepped base. The imposing stack of boulders – 224ft by 100ft with walls 16ft to 20ft high – were painstakingly carried by a human chain of Kamehameha’s men from inside Pololū Valley, some 20 miles away, to fulfill a prophecy: a kahuna (priest) told the king that if he constructed a temple to Kūkā’ilimoku (his family’s war god) here, he would one day rule all the Hawaiian Islands. The prophecy came to pass nine years after the heiau’s completion in 1791, and this was ultimately one of the last great Hawaiian temple structures ever completed.

Start at the low-profile lava rock visitor center atop Puʻukoholā (Whale Hill). Built to blend into the landscape and to offer excellent views of the sacred heiau, its interior is a mini museum dedicated to the site’s history and importance. Don’t miss the paintings by artist Herb Kawainui Kāne, a seminal figure of the Hawaiian cultural renaissance of the 1970s, depicting historic scenes of the heiau’s construction and ceremonial appearance. Just beyond, a half-mile loop trail encompasses many of the grounds’ highlights, including the namesake heiau, an offering tower, a royal courtyard and fort site, and the remnants of Hawaii’s earliest European home sites. The path also includes seaside signposts signaling the offshore location of a fully submerged temple to shark gods. It’s unclear whether the temple has always been fully submerged, but black-tip reef sharks can often be found around its supposed location with their fins skimming the surface (best seen in the early morning).

An ancient seaside footpath, part of the island-rimming Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail, makes for an excellent longer hike beyond the park – it’s 3 miles to Hāpuna Beach. The temple site and the hike are unshaded and usually hot and dry, so bring sunscreen, a hat and water.

If you’re visiting between November and March, the area around the visitor center provides an excellent vantage point for spotting spouting migratory humpback whales offshore.

Waikōloa sunset | funboxphoto/shutterstock ©

SHOPPING IN THE WAIKŌLOA RESORT AREA

Lava Lava Beach Club

It’s all island vibes at this toes-in-the-sand favorite restaurant, bungalow hotel and local hang. The merch – ’70s-style surf T-shirts, rash guards, hats and coozies – is pretty great too.

Reyn Spooner

An iconic brand since 1956, this is the place to go for authentic men’s and women’s aloha wear. Find it at the Queens’ Marketplace.

Aesthetic Hawaii by Genesis Galleries

Hawaii-themed art from dozens of well- and lesser-known local and international artists. Prints, originals and other fun mediums at a variety of price points.

EATING IN WAIKŌLOA VILLAGE & KAWAIHAE

Pueo’s Osteria: Excellent hearty Italian fare in Waikōloa Village. Open late, it’s one of few options for stargazers returning from Mauna Kea. $$

KTA Waikōloa Village: Full-service branch of the local KTA Super Stores with deli, bakery and ATM. $

Kohala Burger & Taco: Local grass-fed burgers, tacos and creamy milkshakes served alongside a nostalgic toy and candy shop. In Kawaihae. $

Anuenue: Since 1998, this shave-ice counter in Kawaihae has delighted all comers with snowy shave ice and premium ice cream. $

Hale I’a Da Fish House: Also known as just ‘Da Fish House,’ this Kawaihae takeout counter mainly sells fresh fish, but also some outstanding, delicious poke. $

Blue Dragon: This retro-chic tiki bar/dance hall/restaurant in Kawaihae has live music under the stars – an enchanting experience. $$$

ANOTHER WAY TO CONTRIBUTE

Vintage fan? Want to make room in your suitcase for more Hawaii souvenirs? Shop goods and apparel at the Dusty Donkey Emporium where all proceeds support the non-profit Waikōloa Dry Forest Initiative.

DRIVING TOUR

All Kohala Loop

Want to get a feel for Kohala? This driving tour will take you there. From the resorts and beaches around Waikōloa, the plantation towns of Hawi and Kapa‘au, the northern coast’s scenic darling, Pololū Valley, plus Waimea’s excellent dining with cowboy vibes, there’s plenty to see and wiggle room for your own exploration. Take a day to hit the highlights or spread it out to soak in this lesser-visited part of Hawai‘i.

Pololū Valley Lookout | David Shvartsman/getty images ©

1 Waikōloa Resort Area

Begin at the resorts, Kona coffee in hand, and drive north along Queen Ka‘ahumanu Hwy to check out the ancient rock carvings in Puakō Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve. Further north, turn onto Puakō Beach Dr and check out the multi-million-dollar seaside mansions en route to the road’s end. Take the last turn off into the gravel lot. The water here is an astonishing blue-green and the snorkeling is excellent; enter via the rocky cove just before the start of the coral and lava rock beach.

The Drive: Take care turning left (north) onto Queen K from Puakō Beach Drive; use the center lane to help merge. Continue north, staying left at the junction with Hwy 270 toward Kawaihae.

2 Puʻukoholā Heiau National Historic Site

Learn about the site’s significance at the Puʻukoholā Heiau visitor center before walking the grounds. Continue through Kawaihae past the port. It’s easy to miss the slight right by the gas station to stay on the route; if you do, the road ends abruptly at the harbor and it’s easy enough to turn around.

The Drive: It’s wide-open views up the Kohala Coast now and you’ll pass long stretches with little development. It’s tempting to cruise here but be sure to watch for speed traps near neighborhoods. Akoni Pule Hwy brings you into Hawi.

3 Hawi & Kapa‘au

Park on the main drag to explore downtown Hawi. Once a thriving plantation town, many of the original wooden storefronts have reemerged in more recent years as colorful cafes, art galleries and souvenir shops. Continue on to the tiny town of Kapa‘au where you’ll find the storied statue of King Kamehameha (spoiler: it spent time at the bottom of the ocean).

The Drive: Pass through jungle gulches and over one-lane bridges along the winding road before the view opens up near the valley at road’s end. Oceanside turnoffs along the route lead to tucked away beach parks.

4 Pololū Valley Lookout

There’s nothing but nature as far as the eye can see. Sea cliffs plummet into Pololū, the first in a series of seven mostly inaccessible green coastal valleys. Take a postcard-worthy photo or hike the mile of switchbacks down to the worn black pebble beach and the valley floor.

The Drive: Head back to Kapa‘au and take Kynnersley Rd after the statue, which becomes the scenic upland Kohala Mountain Rd after about 2 miles.

5 Waimea

You’ll arrive via rolling green cinder cone hills on the west side of Waimea (Kamuela), the largest town in Kohala. There’s an abundance of restaurants and shops here, plus farmers markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays, but the highlight is the town’s proud paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) heritage.

WAIMEA/KAMUELA

PANIOLO COUNTRY | FARMERS MARKETS | COMMUNITY & CULTURE

Land-locked Waimea is not what most people expect when they think of Hawai‘i. Its misty, rolling pasturelands and dry grasslands (a line dividing the ‘wet side’ and ‘dry side’ runs roughly through town) conjure images of the Irish countryside and the African savannah. Yet this place is uniquely Hawaii – its expansive ranch lands are still home to a rich paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) culture, lost elsewhere in the state to time and development, and a rodeo arena hosts regular events. Area farms, which enjoy a more temperate climate, offer a different assortment of produce than your typical tropical fare in excellent weekly farmers markets. Houses even have fireplaces.

Mixed in among the village’s strip mall facade is a thriving community that values art, education and fine dining. The small town is home to an abundance of art galleries, excellent shopping and some of the island’s best restaurants. Note: O‘ahu, Kaua‘i and Maui also have places called Waimea. To avoid confusion, this village is sometimes also called Kamuela.

Loco moco, Hawaiian Style Cafe | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

SIGHTS

1   Firehouse Gallery

2   Isaacs Art Center

3   Paniolo Heritage Center

EATING

4   Big Island Brewhaus

5   Hawaiian Style Cafe

6   Kamuela Farmers Market

7   Merriman’s

8   Moa Kitchen

9   Village Burger

Waimea Midweek Farmers Market (see 6)

ENTERTAINMENT

10   Kahilu Theatre

SHOPPING

11   Gallery of Great Things

GETTING AROUND

Unfortunately, Waimea doesn’t have a main downtown area and the bulk of the town’s shops, galleries and restaurants are scattered in strip malls and plazas across a 3-mile stretch of Mamalahoa Hwy (Hwy 19). It’s a town better built for cars (or horses!) than pedestrians. Even the town’s largest farmers markets, both on Saturday mornings at the same time, are held in two separate locations a mile apart.

TOP TIP

Tucked between Kohala and Mauna Kea volcanoes, this foothill town, at roughly 2650ft above sea level, is often windier and as much as 10°F to 15°F cooler than the coast.

Explore Paniolo Country

Horseback riding with ocean views

Connect with Waimea’s cattle ranching heritage on a narrated group or private horseback-riding tour with an outfitter like Naʻalapa Stables through Kahua Ranch. These tours transcend the pony rides of your youth, and combine open-range riding in one of the most remote locales in the world with opportunities to trot and kick it up a notch to a canter during an uphill stretch. Kahua Ranch sits at 4200ft elevation, which, on a clear day, means infinite views of the Pacific Ocean. Though the 1½- and 2½-hour tours cover only a portion of Kahua Ranch’s 2100 acres, riders will immediately feel the expansiveness of the ranch. The contours of its hilly pastures, to the upland forest, and a cooling breeze and occasional drizzle create a contemplative mood.

Naʻalapa Stables tours are not nose-to-tail, so riders have the flexibility to spread out and chart their own path for most of the tour – though we recommend keeping relatively close to the tour guide so you can catch when they points out the native and introduced plants and wildlife along the way. For example, you might see the endemic ʻōhiʻa tree, with its shocking red, wispy blossoms, or the kōlea (Pacific golden-plover) – long-range travelers that migrate to Hawaiʻi from Alaska in the fall. Elsewhere, spot wild pig tracks, lengthy grooves running down from the top of forested hills to open pasture, and unassuming black and brown Wagyu cattle grazing or gazing, mildly interested – either in you or the horses, it’s hard to tell – as you cross their patch of pasture. Kahua Ranch was established in 1928, and some descendants of the ranch’s original families still work the land today.

If you’re worried you’ll be ill-equipped, rest assured that the tour includes everything you’ll need to nail the equestrian look – from cowboy boots, riding cape and gloves to saddle bags for your water bottle and cell phone.

Big Island Brewhaus | Eric Broder Van Dyke/shutterstock ©

THE ORIGINS OF PANIOLO CULTURE

Seven cattle made their debut in Hawaii as a gift from Captain George Vancouver to King Kamehameha in 1793. Killing the prized beasts was kapu (forbidden) and their tiny population boomed. By the mid-1800s, some 25,000 wild cows roamed the island, transforming the native landscape. The abolishment of the kapu system in 1819 paved the way for land ownership and the creation of ranches. To tame the feral cattle, vaqueros from Mexico were invited to teach Native Hawaiians to rope and wrangle and ride horses. Some think the name ‘paniolo’ comes from a mispronunciation of what the locals called the visiting cowboys: ‘Españoles’ (Spaniards). Eventually, all cowboys in Hawaii came to be called paniolo.

DRINKING IN WAIMEA: COFFEE

Hina Rae’s Cafe: Acai bowls are the main event, but waffles, grilled sandwiches and iced specialty coffees (ube lattes, Kona mocha) are just as good.

Surf Camp: This Instagram darling is one part trendy lifestyle boutique and one part cafe serving a full menu of iced, hot and dripped island coffees.

Country Grounds Coffee: Tiny drive-up roadside shack open early. The usual coffee standards, fruity caffeinated refreshers and paniolo-themed latte.

Pedal Around Upcountry

Cycle through cowboy country

Cycling around Waimea with Big Island Bike Tours rearranges any preconceived notions of Hawaiʻi as a monolith. A tour along Mana Rd rumbles along the unpaved, narrow gravel road surrounded by grassy hills, grazing cattle and horses, and old, ranch-style structures that may or may not still be in use today. The mountain road traverses nearly 40 miles from Mamalahoa Hwy, up and around Mauna Kea before descending into Hilo. Most tours cover just a portion of the route and include as many photo stops and water breaks as you’d like. Whether you go by standard bike or e-bike, it’s a largely peaceful experience once you acclimate to some bumpy, teeth-jittering patches along the route. In addition to cows and horses, you might spot sheep and perhaps a pueo (Hawaiian short-eared owl).

The outfitter also operates an e-mountain biking adventure around 110-arce Anna Ranch, located at the foothills of Kohala Mountain. Follow your guide up and around a dirt path nearly 1200ft in elevation. From this vantage point, it’s possible to take in views of Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Hualālai volcanoes. The ranch tour includes a detour to a hidden waterfall, currently the only way to access it legally. However, folks do find ways to pass through private land to get to the falls, and sometimes receive a citation at best, or require a rescue at worst.

WHY I LOVE WAIMEA

Meghan Miner Murray, Lonely Planet author

I’ve lived on Hawaiʻi for nearly a decade and I am always amazed by the varying climates here. I can drive from my house in South Kona in shorts and by the time I reach Waimea just over an hour later, I’ll have the rare chance to wear the jeans I brought with me from the mainland. Living in the tropics, with warm and relatively consistent year-round weather, the seasons can blur together. In Waimea, though, there are little reminders of the temperate climate I grew up in. You can drive pine-lined streets past houses with smoking chimneys in winter, pick strawberries in roadside fields in spring, and visit pumpkin patches and corn mazes in fall.

EATING IN WAIMEA

Village Burger: A delicious farm-to-table take on a traditional burger and shake joint. Virtually everything is island-sourced. $$

Big Island Brewhaus: Rustic brew pub with Tex-Mex food and over a dozen house-made beers sold in flights, pints, and growlers to go. $$

The Fish & the Hog: This sit-down restaurant serves ribs, pulled pork, beef brisket and other kiawe-smoked meats with their signature barbecue sauces. $$

Merriman’s: OG location of innovative chef Peter Merriman’s now statewide chain of locavore eateries. Excellent Sunday brunch. Reserve for dinner. $$$

Hawaiian Style Cafe: Plate lunch greasy spoon with massive portions of loco moco, haupia (coconut cream) pancakes and crispy lechon (roast pork belly). $

Moa Kitchen: Japanese restaurant in a Western-style strip mall setting serving gyoza, ramen, oak-grilled yakotori and nigiri. $$

Paniolo History & Farmers Markets

Check out Pukalani Stables

The rustic Paniolo Heritage Center at Pukalani Stables provides an insight into all things Hawaiian cowboy culture, including a room dedicated to female pāʻū riders.

Pāʻū refers to the long skirt that wraps around a rider on horseback; it was originally intended as a practicality for women in the 19th century, as the pāʻū protected their dresses from dirt and dust while riding. Traditionally, kukui nuts were twisted into the flowing fabric to help secure the skirt in place while women rode astride, as opposed to side saddle. The pāʻū has since evolved into a colorful showpiece in festivals and parades, like the King Kamehameha Day parade in Kapaʻau; the color of the skirt and flowers worn by the riders are determined by their home island.

Time your visit to Pukalani Stables for the Waimea Midweek Farmers Market on Wednesdays or the Kamuela Farmers Market on Saturdays.

Waimea cattle | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT IN HAWAII

Midcentury modern fans can stay in the only Frank Lloyd Wright–designed house in Hawai‘i, just outside Waimea. The curvy, light-filled three-bed Cornwell House has a bank of floor-to-ceiling windows that help integrate the rental property into its 3-acre volcanic landscape setting and showcases the region’s sweeping ocean and mountain views. Designed in 1954 but constructed in 1995, the plan was originally intended for a Pennsylvania family and never built. The Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation helped to facilitate construction of the architect’s passive solar hemicycle design posthumously. There’s just one other FLW structure in the state, another unbuilt plan begun in 1949 – at one point a home intended for Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller – that now serves as the clubhouse for the King Kamehameha Golf Club in Wailuku, Maui.

SHOPPING IN WAIMEA: ART

Wishard Gallery: Gallery of artist Harry Wishard, who specializes in figurative island landscape scenes. Also displays originals from several other island artists.

Sweet Wind: A ‘metaphysical supply store’ selling (among many other things) coloring books, wind chimes, and crystal beads to make your own art. In Parker Square.

Waimea Town Market: Traditionally forged knives, ceramic bowls and mugs, jewelry and handwoven baskets. At Parker School on Saturday mornings.

Waimea’s Art Scene

Spend a day immersed in art

Perhaps it’s because of Waimea’s inspirational vistas, or maybe because the area’s profitable ranchlands and world-class schools have long drawn monied residents, but Waimea has a serious reputation as an artists’ town. Though it may at times feel a little like a duality – the salt of the earth rural paniolo lifestyle and the well-to-do educational and creative ethos that thrives here simultaneously – the blending of these cultural elements are a big part of what makes Waimea what it is today.

To seek out Waimea’s art scene for yourself, start with the Firehouse Gallery, an exhibition, event and educational space, on your way into town. Housed in the town’s historic fire station and home to the nonprofit Waimea Arts Council, one of the oldest of such organizations in the state, the gallery is staffed by volunteer docents and all art on display is made by its members. A quick chat can help you get your bearings – they’ll know what’s on here or elsewhere in town!

Down the street, the Isaacs Art Center is a hub of art appreciation. Owned and operated by one of several preparatory boarding schools in the area (the sale of art helps fund the school’s scholarship program), it’s a multi-room gallery of donated modern and historic art and Hawaiiana. It’s the only public place on the island where you’ll find such a diverse assortment of paintings, many of which have renowned provenance – their collection includes pieces by French artist Marc Chagall, Hawaiian muralist Herb Kane, turn-of-the-20th century Taos Society founder Joseph Henry Sharp, classically trained Hawaiian subject painter Madge Tennent and even Rembrandt.

If you’d like to take a piece of Hawaiian art home with you, head next to the Gallery of Great Things in Parker Square. The packed-full store has everything from jewelry and prints to glass art and furniture, all crafted by over 200 artists from across the state and throughout Polynesia. With every corner of the meandering space filled, you never know what you’ll find.

And, of course, there’s always the town’s famed farmers markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays, for even more treasures. Many artists – photographers, jewelers, fiber artists – pop up booths here alongside food and produce vendors.

After a day of art, grab dinner at one of the many farm-to-table restaurants in town, where chefs, brewers and sommeliers showcase regional food offerings through their own creative lenses. Then head to a performance at the Kahilu Theatre, a world-class event space and the only one of its kind on the Big Island. The 490-seat theater has diverse programming – including traveling international choirs and string bands, performances by local playwrights, storytelling events and symphonies by Kamuela’s own philharmonic orchestra.

BEST FARMERS MARKET FINDS

Paper Crane Soaps

Fragrant, colorful and hand-crafted shampoo bars, candles, scrubs and soaps made by a former spa aesthetician from locally sourced ingredients. At the Waimea Town Market.

Big Island Abalone

Nab succulent shellfish from the US’s largest abalone farm (at the OTEC center in Kona) on Saturdays at the Kamuela Farmers Market. Cash only.

Rincon Family Farms

The island’s sweetest strawberries, fresh cut sunflowers, jerky and other produce in season at the Waimea Town Market.

Beyond Waimea

Misty pastureland and undulating ancient cinder cones with panoramic ocean views make for dreamy hikes and drives.

Waimea’s surroundings are largely undeveloped. As a hub in the pastoral central uplands of Kohala, it makes a great base (or stopover) for accessing sites in all directions. When driving west to Kawaihae and east to Honoka‘a through the saddle between Mauna Kea and Kohala, activities are limited but expansive landscapes abound. Feeling inspired to get out of your car and get in it? Pu‘uwa‘awa‘a, the furrowed dome-shaped cinder cone on Mauna Loa’s slopes south of Waimea, provides an excellent vantage of the coast and surrounding volcanoes – just as long as you’re willing to hike for it. Or get in your car and drive north to the former sugar town of Hawi via the bucolic upland Kohala Mountain Road.

GETTING AROUND

A car is essential in this part of the island. The Waikōloa Beach Resort area is a 40-minute drive, whether you route through Kawaihae and down along the coast or take the inland passage through Waikōloa Village – both are scenic drives. Note that local courtesy dictates pulling over on the shoulder to let faster traffic pass if you’re tempted to take it slow for the scenery.

Pu‘uwa‘awa‘a TIME FROM WAIMEA: 30 MINS

A rewarding half-day trek

Pu‘uwa‘awa‘a, an ancient cinder cone hill, towers nearly 1000ft above the surrounding ranchland landscape – locals sometimes call it ‘the jello mold’ for its bright-green color and furrowed bundt dome shape. From its summit, bird’s-eye views of the Pacific and four of the island’s five volcanoes – Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, Kohala and Hualālai – await. It’s within a state-managed forest preserve 9 miles past the turnoff for Waikōloa Village from Hwy 190 (Mamalahoa Hwy/Hawaiʻi Belt Rd) and a half-hour drive south of Waimea. You’ll be able to spot the striking feature easily from the road.

Several trails snake around the flatter foothills through endemic trees and native ground cover, but you’ll want to take the longer loop path past craggy fissures around the hill’s eastern flank facing Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa to the summit. It’s a gently sloping 1.5 miles up an older paved path from the gravel parking area just to reach the cinder cone’s base. From there, past a gate to keep out free roaming cattle and curly-horned muflon sheep, it’s uphill in earnest. A fork near the top allows for a choice of gradient during the final ascent: stay right for a more gradual climb or veer left for a more direct route to feel the burn and hit the highest point. The dome’s grassy top has a few benches to soak in the view or have a picnic before heading back down. When it’s all said and done, the round-trip hike will have taken you 6.5 miles spanning some 1800ft of elevation!

Plan at least a half-day for the full trek. Before departing, fill in the register at the check-in station near the parking area. Wear sturdy shoes and bring plenty of water, rain gear and warmer layers; it can be chilly and there’s often afternoon rain at this elevation. For the best chances of avoiding view-obscuring fog and clouds on the route, morning departures are best.

Waimea Cherry Blossom Heritage Festival | Photo Resource Hawaii/Stockimo/Alamy Stock Photo ©

FREE EVENTS WORTH THE TRIP

Kamehameha Day in Kapa‘au

The island-unifying Hawaiian king is celebrated on June 11 with a royal floral processional including pa‘u riders, and intricate lei draping the king’s statue fronting the North Kohala Civic Center.

Waimea Cherry Blossom Heritage Festival

Pink blossoms pepper Kamuela’s historic town center in February. Art shows, taiko drumming, bon dance and mochi pounding honor the trees’ Japanese heritage.

Ho‘oku‘ikahi i Pu‘ukoholā

This August cultural festival commemorates the date of Pu‘ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site’s establishment with Hawaiian protocol and traditional arts and crafts demonstrations.

SHOPPING & EATING IN WAIMEA: FARMERS MARKETS

Waimea Town Farmers Market: Saturday morning market featuring live music. Find custom knives, island salt, local bacon, orchids and more.

Kamuela Farmers Market: Pukalani Stables hosts this collection of mostly food-focused offerings, including food truck meals, on Saturday mornings.

Waimea Midweek Farmers Market: A Wednesday morning opportunity to stock up on produce. Also at Pukalani Stables.

DRIVING TOUR

A Magical Mountain Road Trip

Kohala Mountain Road (Hwy 250) between Waimea and Hawi is one of the most jaw-droppingly scenic drives on the island. The 20-mile-long road traverses rolling upcountry, curving, climbing and descending between 2000ft and 3000ft of elevation. There aren’t many places to stop, but the few spots that do exist are worth pulling over for a photo op. Set off early so you can add on a side trip to Pololū Valley and still have time to return for dinner in Waimea.

Hawi | Alvis Upitis/getty images ©

1 Waimea

Begin your journey in Waimea, the largest town in the island’s northern region. Take some time to grab breakfast or a coffee; Hawaiian Style Cafe and Hina Rae’s Cafe are solid options. Before heading north, peruse local art galleries or shops; Parker Square off Kawaihae Rd is a good place to hit multiple shops in one go.

The Drive: The turnoff for Hwy 250 (Kohala Mountain Rd) is on the east side of town, just under 2 miles from Parker Square.

2 Panoramic Views

A short distance into the drive (2.5 miles), as you ascend upland and north of Waimea, there’s a scenic overlook near mile marker 8. Pull off and look around for 360-degree views that a include peek-a-boo glimpse of Waimea, sweeping pastureland with volcanoes beyond and huge swaths of the Kona-Kohala Coast. On crystal clear days (when Kīlauea isn’t erupting and vog doesn’t obscure the horizon), it’s also possible to see Maui and the glint from its research observatory atop Haleakalā across the ʻAlenuihāhā channel.

The Drive: Continue straight. If you notice that you’re slowing down to enjoy the scenery, pull to the shoulder to let faster traffic pass.

3 Hawi

From here you’ll scale undulating grassy hills with the expansive Pacific beyond, before heading higher up the mountain and further inland. You’ll notice various ranch properties, pass through tall Norfolk pine tree tunnels and spot grazing sheep and cattle. In these higher elevation lands, it’s not uncommon to pass through banks of clouds resting atop the eye-poppingly green landscape, lending an otherworldly air before making your way into the tiny sugar town of Hawi.

The Drive: Turn off the route and right onto the main town drag. The intersection is where Māhukona-Niulii Rd (to the west and toward town) transitions into Hawi-Niulii Rd, which continues on through Kapa‘au and Pololū Valley beyond.

4 Return to Waimea

After you’ve explored Hawi and perhaps (time-permitting) the Pololū Valley Lookout, head back the same way you came – this road is worth seeing in both directions. Try to time the return journey back down the mountain and into Waimea to coincide with the later afternoon golden hour just before sunset (exact timing can be found at timeanddate.com) for some truly magical vistas. Back in Waimea, choose from its wide variety of dining options before calling it a day.

HAWI

CHARMING VILLAGE DOWNTOWN | OUTDOOR ADVENTURES | UNIQUE SHOPPING

Hawi’s main drag is a colorful two-block village of cafes, restaurants, art galleries and boutique and vintage shops housed in rustic sugar plantation-style buildings. Once a hub of the Kohala Sugar Company, whose operations dominated the region for over a century from the mid 1860s, the town’s residents today are an eclectic mix of sugar workers’ descendants and mainland transplants. Revitalized into a sort of artists’ enclave after the company’s closure in 1975, Hawi (pronounced ‘hah-vee’) retains an independent and self-reliant streak. You won’t find chain outlets or fast-food joints here. Though several small businesses along the main strip have shuttered or moved elsewhere since the COVID-19 pandemic, others are slowly starting to take their place, and Hawi retains the vibe of an outpost town. Hawi, and even tinier Kapa‘au and Hala‘ula just beyond, are the last stops before the road’s end at the breathtaking Pololū Valley.

Sushi Rock | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

TOP TIP

Hawi is a much less crowded vantage from which to watch Ironman World Championship races each October than points further south. As the turnaround point for the biking portion of the race, and the end of the rough stretch dubbed the ‘climb to Hawi,’ you’ll also see the world-class athletes at a literal and emotional high point.

GETTING AROUND

Park on the roadside or in the small lot fronting the North Kohala Community Resource Center on the west side of town and then stroll east. If you can, fuel up your car before arriving in Kohala; gas prices are cheaper further south. Note that Kohala Mountain Rd (Hwy 250) is called Hawi Road close to town.

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

1   Kohala UTV Adventures

2   Kohala Zipline

EATING

3   Kohala Coffee Mill

4   Roots Alchemy

5   Sushi Rock

SHOPPING

6   As Hawi Turns

7   Elements Jewelry & Fine Crafts

8   Hawi Farmers Market

Hawi Highlights

Shops that make Hawi worth the stop

Despite its diminutive size, Hawi’s shopping is excellent and people come from all over the island to peruse its unique wares. The all-women-run As Hawi Turns is a definite highlight. Inside you’ll find everything from knickknacks you didn’t know you needed (miniature humans for your plant terrarium? Um, yes please!) to practical items like surf-style clothing, towels, bathing suits and slippahs. The selection changes often and you’ll never know what you may find. Across the street is Elements Jewelry & Fine Crafts, a gallery shop offering mostly handmade goods – fair-trade baskets and bags from around the world and jewelry and handicrafts from Island artists. Further down the main drag L Zeidman Gallery showcases an impressive collection of exquisitely hand turned wooden bowls and vases. Island woods – mango, tamarind, koa and more – are shaped to highlight grain detail; some feature turquoise or lapis inlay to cover natural imperfections. Newcomer Sunshine Trading Company is a carefully curated boutique whose storefront looks straight out of a Wes Anderson movie. Inside you’ll find home goods, cards, jewelry and upscale women’s wear. Raise Your Vibration, whose tagline is ‘good ol’ metaphysical retail store and high-vibe experience,’ has essential oils, incense, singing bowls and crystals, and hosts ‘woo-woo’ events like sound-healing sessions and scalar wave chakra-charging sessions after hours. There are no public restrooms in Hawi, but Raise your Vibration has a private one across the street – leave a cash donation if you’d like to use it. For a little pick-me-up post-shopping, hit up Kohala Coffee Mill for your caffeine needs or Our Founding Farmers for locally churned farm-to-scoop ice cream. Note: several of Hawi’s retailers are closed Mondays.

L Zeidman Gallery | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

ADRENALINE ADVENTURES IN HAWI

Kohala Zipline

Combo ziplining and rappelling tours via an eight-line course connected by tree platforms, sky-bridges and stairs in the forested canopy around Halawa Gulch. Operates from downtown Hawi.

Big Island Gravity

B.I.G. takes off from Upolu Airport, a single seaside runway north of town, and drops tandem skydivers from 10,000ft above the Kohala Coast. All seven of Kohala’s remote northern valleys are visible during the 45-second free-fall and subsequent return to earth.

Kohala UTV Adventures

Though landslides have permanently shuttered the region’s previously popular ‘flumin’ the ditch’ experience (tubing down the irrigation channels of old Kohala Sugar Company lands), this adventure company has pivoted to offer another way to get down and dirty: quad bikes. Kohala UTV Adventures begin just up the road from Pololū Valley.

EATING IN HAWI

Sushi Rock: Ever-popular sushi bar famous all over the island for fusion tropical rolls, which might include papaya or mac nuts, plus cocktails. $$$

Roots Alchemy: A little family-run vegetarian takeout stand dishing out delicious empanadas and a slew of smoothies and energy snacks. $

Mi Ranchito: Hawi folks love this little Mexican place, which is basically a window counter and a few tables. Cash only. $

Kohala Mountain Road | Westend61 GmbH/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Beyond Hawi

Soak in the striking natural beauty and learn about the significant cultural history of North Kohala in points surrounding Hawi.

The upland region and down to the island’s northernmost coast has a long history of settlement – this is the newest Hawaiian Island’s geologically oldest region. Farmers, fishers and warriors have inhabited North Kohala for more than a millennium, and, as the birthplace of island-unifying King Kamehameha the Great, history was written in majestic waterfall-backed valleys here. Just one main road, Hwy 270, connects North Kohala’s hub in Hawi to the rest of the island, but many smaller backroad offshoots are ripe for exploration. Take the time to immerse yourself in this sleepy and generally underexplored region and you may find there’s much more here than initially meets the eye.

Māhukona Beach Park | Billy McDonald/shutterstock ©

GETTING AROUND

The town of Kapaʻau is 2.5 miles past Hawi heading east on Hwy 270. A Hele-On bus rolls through in the mornings on the way to Waikōloa at 6:20am and comes back from the resorts at 5:35pm.

ANCIENT HAWAIIAN HISTORY DRIVING TOUR

Start at a small remote spot that was the site of a former fishing village first inhabited some 700 years ago – 1 Lapakahi State Historical Park, 10 miles west of Hawi on Akoni Pule Hwy (Rte 270). A mile-long looped walking trail connects restored and recreated heiau and shrines, an old canoe house, salt pans and a burial site. Just north, the area around 2 Māhukona Beach Park contains more than a hundred ancient Hawaiian sites including Koʻa Heiau Holomoana, a wayfinding heiau revered the Pacific over. You’d never know it, though…there are no signs or connective trails here. That may change soon. A 642-acre swath of coastal lands was recently protected as the newly designated Māhukona Navigational & Ecological Complex by the Hawai‘i Land Trust (HILT), which provides guided interpretive hikes and talk stories. Fifteen more minutes down Akoni Pule Hwy, take the turnoff for Old Coast Guard Rd. Follow this road to the dirt path (second right) to reach the remains of 3 Moʻokini Heiau. Said to have been originally constructed in the 5th century and rebuilt between the 13th and 14th, it’s one of the oldest and most sacred heiau in the islands. Within walking distance, a series of low stone walls mark King Kamehameha’s birthplace. Back along the highway and past Hawi you’ll reach 4 Kapaʻau in another 15 minutes. Visit on June 11 for King Kamehameha Day celebrations including a parade with pāʻū horseback riders, hula, mele (songs) and ‘oli (chants) to honor the warrior king. But on any day at all you can see the 8ft-tall storied bronze 5 King Kamehameha Statue.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Pololū Valley

At the island’s northwestern tip, the road ends before the breathtaking vista of Pololū Valley. The westernmost in a series of seven deep valleys along the coast, forested sea cliffs plummet into lush Pololū where humongous waterfalls turn to wetlands and a stream before tumbling over water warn pebbles into the white-capped cerulean sea. This is wild, undeveloped Hawai‘i…for now.

Greg Abbott/getty images ©

Scan this QR code to learn more about Pololū Valley.

One of the only accessible valleys along the island’s undeveloped northern coast, Pololū Valley has become one of Hawaii Island’s top sights. Some say its sea cliffs, offshore islets and wind-whipped waves rival the vistas of Kaua‘i’s Nāpali Coast. The lookout is an excellent backdrop for a postcard-perfect family photo and many visitors come for just that. Those who take the under-a-mile round-trip trail of switchbacks down to the shoreline, though, are rewarded with total sensory immersion and can capture panoramas just as good as (if not better than) at the lookout and without the crowds.

Human History in Pololū

Some of the earliest human settlements in this part of the island were in protected Pololū Valley. Habitation is believed to have spanned some six centuries, from at least 1300 CE, thanks to its fertile basin and freshwater floods that supported terraces for growing taro – including a unique varietal that shared the valley’s name – sweet potato and, later, rice. The valley was the site of many battles, which lent it its name meaning ‘long spear.’ In the 1700s, the community within Pololū took in a young Kamehameha the Great, sheltering him from political rivals until he was old enough to take power.

Pu’ukoholā Heiau – a massive temple ordered built by Kamehameha in order to fulfill a sage’s prophecy that he would one day unite the Hawaiian Islands into a single territory (spoiler alert: he did) – was constructed using thousands of water-worn boulders from Pololū, carried up and out of the valley to the site more than 20 miles away. To this day, in part because of its association with the king, Pololū Valley is considered sacred. The last of the valley’s residents left in the 1940s following the diversion of the valley stream to support the sugar plantations booming around Kohala. Today only a handful of cattle left behind roam the marshlands.

DON’T MISS

Pololū Valley Overlook

Pololū Trail

Black Pebble Beach

Sacred Grounds: Sand Dunes

Sea Cliffs

Honokāne Nui Valley Overlook

POST-HIKE TREAT

Less than a mile from the overlook, Fresh Off the Grid farm stand and food truck has picnic-style seating and serves shave ice and mac-nut banana bread, smoothies, and fresh coconuts, liliko‘i (passion fruit) and bananas in season. Bonus: clean toilets, horses in scenic pastureland and more killer coastal views.

The Hike

The footpath used today to reach the valley floor follows an old donkey trail, the remnants of which can sometimes be spotted in the switchbacks. The hike descends some 900ft over less than a mile and it takes about 20 minutes to reach the valley floor (the return can take double that). At the bottom, a series of sand dunes stretching 100ft above sea level back the beach. They’re covered in creaking ironwood trees that stop the wind coming off the ocean, making the dunes eerily calm. Most visitors meander along the pebbled coast past huge hunks of driftwood before turning back to the lookout following the same trail. The adventurous can continue an additional mile up a steep and muddy trail at the far end of the beach to a lone bench overlooking the next valley over – Honokāne Nui. This is as far into the valleys as you can go on foot – the trail down into Honokāne Nui was washed out some years ago.

Due to the closure of Waipiʻo Valley, the popularity of this hike has skyrocketed. To manage existing impacts at the lookout, volunteer trail stewards are a new fixture, helping to direct traffic, manage parking and notify hikers of unmarked cultural sites.

TOP TIPS

• Check in with valley stewards, present most days, for traffic and parking assistance, current trail conditions, and area closures.

• There are no restrooms or concessions at the lookout or on the valley floor – bring in what you need and plan to bring it back out. The only trash cans are at the trailhead.

• Take plenty of water if you plan to hike down (at least a liter per person).

• If you’re unsteady on your feet or unused to steep hikes, look for makeshift walking sticks shared among visitors and left at the trailhead.

Mauna Kea & Saddle Road

BIG ISLAND’S LOFTIEST PLACE

Hit the highway to take in a scenic road crossing the belly of the island, and the gateway to Hawaii’s tallest summit.

ʻIʻiwi | Kendall Collett/shutterstock ©

The original hastily built Saddle Road (Rte 200) was the main cross-island route connecting the west and east. It gained notoriety as one of the most dangerous roads in Hawaii due to its poor-quality surface, blind bends and steep grades, as well as bad weather conditions. It was completely repaved and renamed Daniel K Inouye Hwy (after a local war hero) in 2017 and is now a dreamy drive, bisecting the archipelago’s two mightiest volcanoes – Mauna Loa (13,681ft) and Mauna Kea (13,803ft) – and offering a taste of Big Island’s various terrains. Rolling pastures and lush green give way to tropical rainforest and stark moon-like volcanic fields, created after historic eruptions from 150 to 4000 years ago. Hikes around the highest point of the road, Humu‘ula Saddle (at 6632ft), offer a closer look at the unique and hardy flora and fauna thriving in this hostile landscape. This is also the gateway to Mauna Kea – a sacred place for Native Hawaiians and, technically, the tallest mountain on Earth – measuring 33,476ft from base to summit (more than half of which is underwater). With its height, lack of pollution and dry conditions, many consider it the best stargazing spot in the world. Eleven countries conduct their astronomical studies from here at 13 observatories. A steep 4WD road winds to the summit for views above the clouds and a carpet of twinkling jewels come nightfall.

Mauna Kea | Douglas Peebles/gettyimages ©

THE MAIN AREAS

SADDLE ROAD

East to west cross-island route.

MAUNA LOA

The world’s largest active volcano.

MAUNA KEA

Follow the 15-mile road to the volcano summit.

Find Your Way

Saddle Road connects to Rte 190 in the west, just south of Waikōloa, and travels 52 miles east to Kaumana Dr on the way into downtown Hilo, passing between Mauna Loa and Mauna Koa.

Plan Your Time

It’s important to take things slow at high altitudes. Don’t try to pack too much in when exploring Saddle Road and Mauna Kea, and take plenty of breaks to appreciate the otherworldly views.

Mauna Kea summit | Radoslaw Lecyk/shutterstock ©

If You Only Have One Day

Walk the 1.1-mile Pu‘u Huluhulu Trail for volcano and stark lava field views, before driving Mauna Kea Access Road to Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station for exhibits on Hawaii’s history, ecology, geology and astronomy. Join a pre-booked sunset 4WD tour from here to the summit, and settle in for some of the best stargazing on Earth.

If You Have Two Days

Drive the paved single-lane road to Mauna Loa, climbing through beautifully desolate lava fields for 17 miles to the volcano’s observatory. Embark on a challenging 6.4-mile backcountry hike, exploring colored lava flows and the enormous Mokuʻāweoweo caldera. Bed up at the rustic high-elevation Mauna Loa Cabin for sleeps at a dizzying 13,250ft.

Seasonal highlights

SPRING

Meander the family-friendly Kaulana Manu Nature Trail for high-altitude flowers in bloom.

SUMMER

Stargazing opportunities are at their best, with little moisture in the air and few clouds in the sky.

FALL

Last chance hikes and stargazing on volcano slopes before the temperatures plummet.

WINTER

Mauna Kea is covered in snow come January and February, offering DIY skiing and snowboarding for experts.

SADDLE ROAD

VOLCANOES | EPIC DRIVES AND HIKING ADVENTURES | RARE PLANTS

Connecting the east and west of Big Island, Saddle Road (officially Route 200, the Daniel K Inouye Hwy) stretches over the belly of the island, slicing between its most gargantuan volcanoes, Mauna Kea (13,803ft) and Mauna Loa (13,681ft), and meandering through a tapestry of rainforest, rolling grasslands and barren lava plains, with roaming feral sheep and goats. At its highest point, Humu‘ula Saddle, it reaches a lofty 6632ft, and although the whole 52-mile road is well maintained, smooth and wide (it’s a daily commuter route for folks on either side of the island), conditions can change quickly at these altitudes, with frequent fog and low visibility. Those who embark on the drive can enjoy several kinds of terrain, almost free of human development, plus a scattering of high-altitude volcanic hikes with rare flora, birdlife and terrific sunset views above the clouds.

Saddle Road | norinori303/shutterstock ©

GETTING AROUND

Hele-On Bus services cross Saddle Rd from the west of the island to Hilo, but only stop once at the Gilbert Kahele Recreation Area. To scale the volcanoes on either side, or to hike the trails, a car is needed.

TOP TIP

Fill up on gas before you drive Saddle Road, which is a remote area with no fuel stops or stores, and very limited services. Traveling toward Kona there are fast, steep sections, which can take a toll on brakes; use a lower gear to avoid brake failure.

TOP SIGHTS

1   Mauna Loa

2   Puʻu Huluhulu Trail

SIGHTS

3   Mauna Loa Lookout

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

4   ʻĀinapō Trail

5   Kaulana Manu Nature Trail

6   Mauna Loa Observatory

7   Mauna Loa Observatory Trail

8   Mauna Loa Trail

9   Puʻu ʻOʻo Trail

Tour the Mauna Loa Observatory

Understanding weather and climate

The weather measurements made at the Mauna Loa Observatory are so sensitive that when the observatory was built in 1956 scientists asked the national park to ban stoves at the summit cabin, fearing those emissions 6 miles away would throw off their readings. The park didn’t, but the observatory managed to adjust. It has continuously recorded carbon dioxide (CO₂) and other human-produced greenhouse gas levels ever since, defining much of our understanding of global climate change. Tours of the facility are by appointment only. The 6.4-mile Mauna Loa Observatory Trail starts here.

HIKING TOUR

Pu‘u Huluhulu Trail

Not to be confused with the hike of the same name in Hawai‘i Volcano National Park, this terrific, easy, bang-for-your-buck 1.1-mile (40-minute) trail crosses an old cinder cone sitting in the saddle (adjacent to the road of the same name) between Mauna Koa and Mauna Loa. It has views of both mighty volcanoes, plus old forest, rare plants, birdlife and stark lava fields in one easy hit.

Pu‘u Huluhulu | Masa Ushioda/Alamy Stock Photo ©

1 Trailhead

Driving toward Hilo from Kona on Saddle Road, Pu‘u Huluhulu (meaning ‘hairy hill’) appears like a nipple on the landscape. A lifeboat in a sea of lava, the cinder cone is rich with forest vegetation on one side while the opposite side, exposed to the elements, has a balding surface. Park at the large gravel lot opposite Mauna Kea Access Rd. At the trailhead follow five connected loops in a wobbly figure of eight. Start left, going up the hill onto the Pilo Trail (for an easier trail, do the route in reverse).

2 Pilo Trail

The Pilo trail goes along an old rock wall and to the top of the mound, and on clear days there are unobstructed views of the 13,803ft dormant Mauna Kea in all its grandeur, as well as of Summit Road crisscrossing up the mountain. Take the mini Apapane Trail onto the ‘Iliahi Loop for soaring views of black lava fields beyond Mauna Loa Observatory Rd at its western corner. Complete the loop then rejoin the Apapane Trail to connect to the grassy forested Nail Trail and the Koa Trail.

3 Koa Trail

Take the Koa Trail clockwise for a mix of koa forest, dry mixed forest, native plants and views of Mauna Loa. Although Mauna Kea gets all the glory, Mauna Loa stands a whopping 13,681ft, only 122ft shorter than its neighbor, the highest volcano in Hawaii. However, it takes the gong as the largest volcano on Earth, covering half the Island of Hawai‘i – and it’s still active (the last eruption was in November 2022). In theory, a new eruption could make it taller than Mauna Kea.

4 Old Quarry Trail

Circle back down the hill through the undergrowth, looking for endemic plants such as the pua kala (thorny flower), a wind-resistant pretty white poppy, and keeping your eyes peeled for 33 kinds of bird, including the majestic Hawaiian hawk, only found on Big Island; the Hawaiian short-eared owl, which is active during the day; the endemic greeny-yellow-gray Hawaiʻi ʻamakihi; and the crowd-pleasing ʻiʻiwi with its bright scarlet body and long, curved salmon bill.

5 Base of Pu‘u Huluhulu

At the base of the hill, a sea of lava comes into view and the path follows a fence erected to create a safe haven, protecting the habitat from wild sheep, goats and pigs. On the way back to your car, you might see some of these hoofed mammals clambering and foraging across the expanses of 1843 and 1934 lava flows.

HIKING TOUR

Kaulana Manu Nature Trail

Opened in 2020, the flat and family-friendly Kaulana Manu Nature Trail (0.4 miles out and back) is one of the newest editions to Saddle Road. It sits at an altitude of 5583ft and meanders through a 3000-year-old kipuka forest spared by eruptions. This is a place to go slowly – it’s home to a remarkable number of plants that even the most seasoned travelers will never have encountered.

ʻOha wai | Michael Szonyi/getty images ©

1 Mile Marker 21

Find the start of the trail on the right-hand side of Saddle Road if traveling toward Kona, around 1.5 miles south of the Pu‘u O‘o Trailhead. From the parking lot, follow the road right at the info board to find the trail entrance (look for the white-painted footprints). Rare and endangered birds might sing to wanderers as they pass.

2 Endemic Plants

Signs start pointing out significant plants before the loop; look for the endemic red-leafed fern ‘ama‘u (Sadleria cyatheoides), used by Native Hawaiians to stain kapa (cloth) and the red flowering ‘ōhiʻa (Metrosideros polymorpha), which have red spiky flowers that shoot up like sea urchin spikes.

3 Rare Plants

Silverswords, with their chrome-colored hairs and fleshy leaves, are only found on top of Haleakala and Mauna Kea. Look out for the relative to this rare plant: the attractive green na‘ena‘e (Dubautia scabra), which grows on barren lava fields and can be spotted here with its small clusters of leaves shaped like pineapple tops.

4 Living Laboratory

The loop trail proper begins though a gate (the secluded 15-acre site is protected from wild hogs by a fence). Follow the trail clockwise for pukiawe (Styphelia tameiameiae), a shrub-like tree with red fruit and leaves used to make lei. The smoke from this tree was also used in purification ceremonies.

5 Thick Undergrowth

Around a third of the trail in, walkers will likely be surrounded by a chorus of birdsong. Dozens of rare species can be spotted and heard here. The endangered yellow ʻakiapolaʻau (Hemignathus wilsoni) makes a ‘chu-wee’ sound. Pause on the trail for a few minutes and listen.

6 Viewing Platform

At the trail’s halfway point is a platform with views soaring across to Summit Road, winding up Mauna Kea, at an elevation of 13,803ft. The view here is only the tip of the iceberg; the base of the volcano sits in the ocean and makes it 33,476ft in total height (more than 6 miles); Mt Everest stands at an elevation of 29,031ft. On clear days, it’s possible to make out the highest point on the mountain, the sacred Pu‘u Wekiu cinder cone.

7 Surfboard Trees

Further along the loop, walkers will pass koa trees, the second most common tree on the islands, which can grow up to 115ft and were used by ancient Hawaiians for a multitude of things – building canoes and paddles, surfboards, spear handles and ‘ukuleles. Nearby is the endangered ʻoha wai (Clermontia) plant with its distinctive dark-purple or green-white petals that, when closed, resemble the curve of an ʻiʻiwi bird’s bill. Of the Clermontia peleana subspieces that is unique to this region only a few individual plants remain.

HIKING TOUR

Lava Field Trip: Pu‘u O‘o Trail

This starkly beautiful, high-elevation, moderate volcano hike (9-mile round trip at around 5500ft; roughly four hours walking) crosses rocky lava fields and old-growth forests spared from lava destruction. Follow the cairns (stacks of stones) across what was likely a prehistoric route, named after the extinct black and yellow o‘o bird. In the 1900s, this became a cattle route to Kīlauea volcano.

Nēnē | Westend61/getty images ©

1 Horse & Foot Trail

The route starts near the 28-mile marker on Saddle Road. Pull into the small parking area, put on some hiking boots with ankle support for the rocky terrain (and pack a raincoat – this area has an unpredictable microclimate), and follow the wooden sign reading ‘Pu‘u O‘o Horse & Foot Trail.’

The Walk: Follow the well-worn initial pathway through a small section of lava field followed by green growth areas.

2 Green Growth Areas

Koa, ʻōhiʻa and small fruit-filled trees will start to appear. Look out for the orange berries of the pilo (Coprosma montana) shrub, the red berries of the ‘akala (Hawaiian raspberry), and the pink berries of the pukiawe (Leptecophylla tameiameiae) plant.

The Walk: The path turns to slippery small rocks of lava mixed with smooth shelves and steps over big boulder shapes, with new growth emerging from the crevices.

3 Solitude

Once away from the road, it gets eerily quiet on this low-traffic trail. The route has very little elevation change, but the terrain requires concentration to navigate different shapes of lava.

The Walk: The path goes along smooth lava across expansive fields of stone, which would be hard to follow if it weren’t for well-laid-out lichen-covered cairns.

4 Old Forests

As if from nowhere the path snakes into built-up old forests, becoming almost damp with ferns and moss-covered branches, offering a much-needed shaded canopy in the midday sun.

The Walk: The trail hits a black lava desert, created by the Mauna Loa eruptions of 1855 and 1881, offering a stark contrast to the verdant habitats on this trail.

5 Moon Walking

Dark rocks and giant jagged boulders appear to stretch to the horizon. Look out for the hardy pink invasive knotweed. Several small lava tubes are visible in the rubble.

The Walk: Snake along the edge of the 38,400-acre Kipuka ‘Ainahou Nēnē Sanctuary, established in 1974 to protect the area between the 1935 and 1852 lava flows.

6 Kipuka ‘Ainahou Nēnē Sanctuary

Look closely for species including nēnē (Hawaiian geese), the ʻomaʻo (Hawaiian thrush) and the bright-red ʻiʻiwi (scarlet honeycreeper) seeking refuge in an otherwise lifeless lava landscape.

The Walk: The halfway point of the trail is a 3.5-mile 4WD road to the left, which can be used as a return route.

7 Powerline Rd

It’s an ankle-busting road, with softball-sized lava rocks along it, but it has awesome views of Mauna Kea and its observatories. This route leads to Saddle Road, from where it’s another mile to the Pu‘u O‘o Trail parking lot, not the trailhead. Alternatively, retrace your steps.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Mauna Loa

Mauna Loa is the largest active volcano on Earth. Its name means ‘long mountain,’ and it makes up half the Island of Hawaiʻi, stretching over 2035 sq miles. Even when the shield volcano isn’t obscured by clouds, it’s impossible to pick out the summit (13,681ft), as the gradual slope has built slowly over time from lava oozing down its flanks.

MNStudio/shutterstock ©

Scan this QR code for park information about Mauna Loa.

Mauna Loa’s Eruption History

Since 1843 (when we started keeping track of volcanic activity) Mauna Loa has erupted 34 times, usually starting with activity at the summit caldera before letting off pressure at its flanks along the rift zones. It had been 38 years since the last eruption when the volcano sprang back into action on November 27, 2022, with lava breaking the surface within Moku‘āweoweo, the summit caldera. Fountains of lava soon spewed from the northwest rift zone, and flowed down within 1.7 miles of the Saddle Rd. The activity lasted just 12 days, but the volcano is certain to erupt again.

DON’T MISS

Mauna Loa Rd

Mauna Loa Lookout

Mokuʻāweoweo

Mauna Loa Cabin

ʻĀinapō Trail

Mauna Loa Trail

Puʻuʻulaʻula (Red Hill)

Summit Trail

Mauna Loa Lookout

If you want to escape the crowds, drive the 11.5-mile Mauna Loa Rd past hiking trails, majestic views and kipuka (oases) spared by massive lava flows. The road begins off Hwy 11 near mile marker 31, just over 2 miles west of the park’s main entrance. Picnic tables and pit toilets a mile up the road are the only facilities until the top. At the end of the road lies epic Mauna Loa Lookout (6662ft) and the start of the challenging and rewarding Mauna Loa Trail. For the best views of Mauna Loa from the lookout, wander a short way east down the trail and you’ll also see smoking Kīlauea far below.

Mauna Loa Trail

One for your bucket list: a relentless (though nontechnical) 19.6-mile hike ascending 7000ft through surprisingly diverse lavascapes with epic views. Take at least three days, although four or five is better for a summit bid.

The first day climbs 3400ft over 7.5 miles of ancient pāhoehoe (smooth-flowing lava) and collapsed lava tubes to Puʻuʻulaʻula (Red Hill) where a historic cabin gets you out of the elements. Collected rainwater is usually available, but treat before drinking. During research it was not possible to hike beyond this point due to hazards from the 2022 eruption. The next 11.6 miles to the Mauna Loa Cabin (13,250ft) are grueling but sublimely rewarding. Note that the actual summit is on the other side of Moku‘āweoweo from the cabin. The trail splits at Mile 9.5, and while some hikers do the additional 5.2-mile round-trip Summit Trail on their way to the cabin, most elect to tackle their 16.8-mile day on the way down. Better yet, spend two nights on top of the world.

HISTORIC TREKS

The mountain is sacred to Native Hawaiians, and throughout history holy men would make treks to the summit via the ʻĀinapō Trail to set offerings at the caldera. The first European to summit, Archibald Menzies, did so on his third attempt in 1794. His barometric measurements of the elevation (13,635ft) were surprisingly accurate.

ʻĀinapō Trail

This 10.2-mile trail was part of the route used by ancient Hawaiians to leave offerings at Mauna Loa’s summit. Its 7600ft climb is so challenging that when geologist Dr Thomas Jaggar hiked it to observe eruptions in 1914, he immediately began lobbying for a new route – hence the Mauna Loa Trail.

Access to the trailhead via 8 miles of rough 4WD road across Kapāpala Ranch. You must register the day before at kapapalaranch.com/forest-reserve-access; the gate combination will be texted to you at 4:30am on the day of your hike. If your vehicle can’t make it, consider splitting the hike over two days and renting ʻĀinapō Cabin ($50 per night) at Halewai, 2.7 miles up the trail.

TOP TIPS

• Only fit and experienced high-altitude hikers should attempt Mauna Loa.

• It’s essential to acclimatize first. Altitude sickness can have deadly consequences, and descent is the only remedy.

• The trail can be extremely hot and dehydrating. Heat exhaustion is a real danger.

• Sunscreen, sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat are essential.

• When weather conditions turn windy and wet, hypothermia is possible even if temperatures stay above freezing.

• Always pack extra insulating, waterproof layers.

Mauna Loa Observatory Trail

This 6.4-mile, 2500ft climb starts from Mauna Loa Observatory, accessed via Saddle Rd (a two-hour drive from the park). The easiest way to stand on the top of Mauna Loa is via this trail, but easiest doesn’t mean ʻeasy.’ This is a steep, exhausting, all-day adventure. Prepare for snow at any time, and take a flashlight; it’ll take longer than you think.

MAUNA KEA

NATIVE HAWAIIAN SACRED SITE | STARGAZING | 4WD SUMMIT TRIP

Mighty Mauna Kea (White Mountain) is the loftiest point on the Hawaiian islands, standing at 13,803ft. It is also the highest mountain on Earth – yes, bigger than Everest – measured from base (underwater) to its summit (33,476ft). It’s possible to drive from the beach to the often snow-capped (and sometimes ski-able) summit in an hour and a half, but this is not a place to rush. This high-altitude spot offers an unforgettable steep 4WD drive in a deeply sacred Hawaiian place, or piko (navel). Native Hawaiians believe that Mauna Kea connects the land to the heavens, and it has indeed provided for thousands of years. It is here that ancient Hawaiians worked in dangerously high-altitude conditions to collect valuable basalt by hand for tools and buildings. Thanks to its altitude and dry atmosphere, there is unparalleled clarity on the summit, which has become home to 13 telescopes operated by 11 countries; and working here is the pinnacle for astrophysicists. Watching the sun set below the clouds on the top of Mauna Kea is a celestial experience, and as darkness falls an otherworldly experience begins. There is arguably no better stargazing spot on Earth; peer up and see the roof of the sky illuminated with thousands of twinkling dots, plus constellations, planets and galaxies.

View from Mauna Kea summit | Marisa Estivill/shutterstock ©

GETTING AROUND

The easiest way to climb to the slopes of Mauna Kea is by private vehicle or on an organized tour. 2WDs can only go as far as the Visitor Station on Mauna Kea Access Rd. Competent drivers in 4WDs are allowed to ascend to the summit; it’s advisable to stop for an hour to acclimatize at the Visitor Information Station.

TOP TIP

Bring binoculars or a telescope if doing a self-tour of the sky, plus lots of water (the summit air is very dry), warm clothes (ski wear is ideal) and a hot drink in a flask – the temperature drops to freezing point at the summit.

TOP SIGHTS

1   Lake Waiʻau

2   Mauna Kea Summit Area

SIGHTS

3   Puʻu Wekiu

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

4   Gemini Northern Telescope

5   United Kingdom Infrared Telescope

A Mauna Kea Taster

History, geology and astronomy exhibitions

Non-4WD vehicles can go no further than the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station (9200ft); from here on in its 4WDs only. However, the area is a de facto base for summit explorers to acclimatize at, with dozens of tours and private vehicles waiting here before sunset viewing. Acclimatizers can entertain themselves (during the recommended hour) with informative exhibits inside the station on Mauna Kea’s history, ecology and geology and astronomy, plus some large bits of historic stargazing kit.

Boards have info on everything from rare wildlife on the volcano and how the Polynesians navigated the stars, to the largest primitive quarry on Earth – the Adz Quarry on the south slope of the volcano, used by ancient Hawaiians to collect valuable fine-grained basalt (known as Hawaiʻiite). The gift shop sells water bottles, hats and gloves, books about science and Hawaiian culture, and freeze-dried astronaut food – banana, strawberry and Neapolitan-flavored ice cream.

Silversword | KellyLT/shutterstock ©

ACCLIMATIZING ON MAUNA KEA

Altitude sickness is a very real risk on the summit (13,803ft) of Mauna Kea, especially during hard physical exertion when hiking on the volcano. It’s advisable to stop at the Visitor Information Station to acclimatze for an hour before continuing to the summit.

Altitude sickness can be fatal and should be taken seriously. If you are short of breath, have a headache, stomachache or feel tired, clumsy or confused, head back down the mountain straight away. Don’t go to the top of the mountain if you are unwell, if you have been scuba diving within the previous 24 hours, if you’re pregnant or if you suffer from a medical condition.

STARGAZING TOURS

Arnott’s Lodge Summit Tours: Terrific value and highly informative summit sunset tours with stargazing using a laser pointer.

Hawaii Forest & Trail: Outdoor dinner, scenic sunset and starlit sky tours with hot chocolate and a Celestron telescope.

Mauna Kea Summit Adventures: This long-running outfit offers hot dinner on the volcano, cold-weather parkas and stargazing.

Mauna Kea Sunset: Group and private tours at sunset (including parkas), plus light snacks and hot chocolate.

Volcano Tours: Knowledgeable guides, history, picnic dinner, sunset and hot chocolate with stargazing.

Epic Tours: Mauna Kea stargazing tours with a pro astrophotographer and free star photos. Parkas provided.

Mauna Kea above the Clouds

Self-driving to the summit

Sunset and stargazing on the volcano are both among the most popular experiences to be had on Big Island. Watching the light disappear below the clouds and then appreciating the unparalleled clarity of the night sky is truly something to behold.

The wild 15-mile ride along Mauna Kea Access Road winds from the unique Humu‘ula cinder cone (6758ft) on Saddle Road to Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station (9200ft), and then onto a gravel road up to the summit. While all cars can make the first part of the journey up to the Visitor Information Station, from there it’s 4WD-only; there’s a checkpoint where rangers make sure 4WD drivers know how to use low gears on the way down the mountain to avoid cars overheating and brakes failing due to excessive use. Brake failure has claimed lives on Mauna Kea. If unsure – book a summit 4WD tour.

After 4.4 miles, a gravel turnout leads to the rocky Apollo Valley, where astronauts have trained for missions. At Mile 6.5 is the 1.4-mile (2.3 miles out and back) Waiʻau Trail, leading west to sacred Lake Waiʻau, one of the highest alpine lakes in the world, formed during the last ice age 10,000 years ago and fed by snowfall. The Waiʻau Trail crosses the expert-only Mauna Kea Summit Trail, starting at the Visitor Information Station and climbing around 4600ft to the summit.

After 7.4 miles you’ll reach the summit loop, where they can see several bulbous observatories up close, including the United Kingdom Infrared Telescope, with the second-largest dedicated infrared telescope (12.5ft), and the Gemini Northern Telescope (26.6ft), shared by five nations and paired with the Gemini South in Chile, meaning it can cover almost the whole sky.

The true summit of the mountain is Puʻu Wekiu, a cinder cone opposite the UH 2.2m Telescope. Visitors are asked to respect this sacred place and to not follow the short trail to the summit, but rather to appreciate it from slightly below. There are limited parking spaces and a few porta potties at the summit.

Note that driving at high altitudes is highly dangerous; dizziness and fatigue can cause lapses in judgment and many rental car companies do not tow cars (even 4WDs) off the mountain – check your contract before driving.

SILVERSWORD

Easily the most valuable plant on the volcano, the endangered Mauna Kea silversword (ʻahinahina), grows at altitudes between 5000ft and 12,500ft and is found nowhere else on Earth. It has sword-like leaves and a spectacular dense, shiny rosette of silver hairs that reflect sunlight and help guard against cold temperatures. These incredible plants survive virtually zero humidity and bloom only once, but live from 15 to more than 50 years. Conservationists are fighting to save the Mauna Kea silversword population, which declined after the introduction of feral goats, sheep, pigs and cattle to the island, plus the impacts of climate change. There is a small cluster of plants near the Visitor Information Station parking lot. Tread carefully on Mauna Kea hikes.

TOOLKIT

The chapters in this section cover the most important topics you’ll need to know about in Hawai‘i the Big Island. They’re full of nuts-and-bolts information and valuable insights to help you understand and navigate Hawai‘i the Big Island and get the most out of your trip.

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodations

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTiQ+ Travelers

Accessible Travel

‘Native Hawaiian’ Versus ‘Local’

Nuts & Bolts

Waipi‘o Valley | Cannon Photography LLC/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Arriving

The vast majority of Big Island visitors arrive by air. Regional travelers mostly fly in from Honolulu International Airport on O‘ahu and from California, including San Francisco, Los Angeles and San Diego. Flights mainly land at the Big Island’s two primary airports: Kona International Airport at Keāhole and Hilo International Airport.

Fuse/Getty Images ©

Airport Shuttles & Taxis

Taxi fares from Hilo International Airport to downtown are around $50. The Speedi Shuttle bus (only available at Kona International Airport) typically costs around $30 to downtown.

ATMs

There are two ATMs at Big Island’s Kona International Airport and one at Hilo International Airport. These may charge for withdrawals, depending on your provider.

Fruit

Visitors to Hawaii are not allowed to bring in or out fresh fruit. This is to prevent invasive species from being transported in and out of the state. Dried fruit is allowed.

Wi-Fi

There is free wi-fi for travelers at both Kona International Airport and Hilo International Airport. Simply launch your browser and select the free wi-fi to connect.

RESERVE IN ADVANCE

While Hawaii, and the Big Island in particular, is super laid-back in many ways, facilities can be in short supply. There are limited rental cars on the island; it’s advisable to book one in advance for the duration of your trip if you’re planning on exploring the more remote areas that are only accessible by car. Accommodations can be limited depending on visitor numbers, and the best restaurants may also be booked up in advance. A bit of pre-planning will go along way before arriving to the Big Island.

Wongsakorn Napaeng/shutterstock ©

Drive Time from Airport to...

Getting Around

Big Island is a hugely car-dependent place, with good roads. That said, there’s a limited bus network and taxi and shuttle services for those who don’t drive.

TRAVEL COSTS

Car rental

from $25/day (plus insurance)

Petrol

around $5 a gallon

Bus fare

free

Taxi fare

around $4 per mile

Hiring a Car

This is best done at Big Island’s two major airports, Hilo International and Kona International. Rates are slightly inflated compared with US mainland outlets and rental is limited, so book well in advance of a trip.

Road Conditions

Major roads on the Big Island are in good condition and a normal car will be fine, unless you’re planning on driving off-road or to the summit of Mauna Kea (a 4WD is required past the Visitor Information Station).

ROAD ETIQUETTE

Driving is slow on Big Island, no one is in a rush, so expect your journey to take slightly longer, especially when factoring in sightseeing and potential dirt roads. Drives and their accompanying views are spectacular, with miles of coastline to explore, plus lava deserts and rainforests. Tailgating and honking are not the norm and people are generally polite on the road. Speed limits are obvious on the roads and enforced. Parking is abundant with a mixture of free street parking, parking lots, parking meters and private garages.

Bicycle

Biking is great for journeys around towns. Avid (and fit) cyclists can do longer journeys, but the sun, wind, rain, limited hard shoulders, and elevations can be harsh. Recommended rental companies include Bike Works (Kailua-Kona) and Mid-Pacific Wheels (Hilo), plus Hawaii’s HiBike bike-share program.

Taxi

Local taxis are available at the main towns of Kona and Hilo. Uber and Lyft are also available, but are quite unreliable due to low car numbers. The best bet is to book taxi services in advance for when you need them.

Bus

The public Hele-On Bus is semi-reliable and free to use (at the time of writing) as part of a post-COVID-19 experiment that may continue or revert to the standard fare. Around 25 routes are available around the island. Find maps on the Hele-On Bus website. Times may change due to weather conditions.

TIP

You can loop the entire island in around five hours on the 225-mile Hawaiʻi Belt Rd (Hwys 19 and 11).

goglik83/Getty Images ©

DRIVING ESSENTIALS

Drive on the right.

All passengers must wear a seatbelt.

Blood alcohol limit is 0.08%

Scan for Hele-On Bus routes.

Money

CURRENCY: US DOLLAR ($)

MALERAPASO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Credit Cards

Credit cards are widely accepted in shops, hotels and restaurants, and they might be required for table reservations, car rentals and hotel bookings and deposits. Markets are unlikely to accept credit cards. Bring cash for tips for attendants, cleaners and tour guides.

ATMs

Cash withdrawal is available at banks, convenience stores, main airports, gas stations and supermarkets. Fees may be applied depending on your bank.

Taxes & Refunds

A 4% state tax is tacked onto most things, including food, groceries and car rentals. There is no tax rebate for visitors.

Contactless Payments

More and more places use contactless payment since the COVID-19 pandemic, and most larger shops and restaurants will have this service, as will some smaller food vendors. However, don’t rely on it in more rural places – take cash and a physical card as backup.

HOW MUCH FOR...

national park entry

from $15
a cup of coffee

around $5
museum entry

from $10
a local lunch

from $15

PRICE OF PARADISE

Although Big Island is considered one of the cheaper Hawaiian Islands, along with O‘ahu, in terms of costs of accommodations and goods, visitors will notice that things are a lot more costly than on the US mainland. Hefty accommodations costs are due to popularity, while the jacked-up prices on goods are down to the state’s remote location in the Pacific Ocean and reliance on imports. Everything from rental cars and fuel to furniture and appliances, plus the comfort food that visitors expect to find in grocery stores, is shipped in. Buy local brands and shop locally (at farmers markets etc) where possible to save money.

HOW TO…  Get Discounts

Various third-party companies offer coupons for discounts on activities and excursions on the big island. Big Island Coupon, Groupon, Free Hawaii Coupon Book, GetYourGuide and Hawaii Discount all offer discounts with local businesses, including tour operators and restaurants. It’s worth checking these before you book. Also, ask the concierge at your hotel if they get special rates with local tour operators.

DNDAVIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LOCAL TIP

While cash is easily available, you may get a more favorable exchange rate in your home country or lower withdrawal fees on the US mainland.

Accommodations

Hotels & Resorts

Top-end resorts offer flashy stays near manicured beaches and big pools; they’re usually found in South Kohala and on the Kona Coast. No-frills motels are the more affordable choice – some have ample amenities including pools and restaurants. Hotels and resorts can book up fast – book around three months in advance of your trip, and watch out for the resort and parking fees.

Condos

For those looking for a more private stay with apartment facilities – a place to cook, private entrance, washer/dryer and separate bedrooms – choose a condo. These are ideal for families or those staying on the island longer. Condos typically require multiple-night stays, but typically offer discounts for longer stays. This style of accommodations can work out a lot cheaper for larger groups.

B&Bs & Inns

Choose these for a more personalized stay, often with unique decor, characterful period properties or surrounding farmland. Sometimes the hosts live on-site and can offer local tips and recommendations. All stays come with breakfast, usually served at a set time. Accommodations are typically for solo travelers or couples. B&Bs and inns need to be booked ahead; same-day bookings are not the norm as these are local operations.

Hostels

Hostels are no-frills lodgings with communal facilities such as kitchens and lounge areas. Dorm rooms are shared, but some hostels provide private rooms for a higher fee. These are located in Hilo, Puna, Kailua-Kona, South Kona and Volcano. They are ideal for younger solo travelers wanting to meet other adventurers. Hostels also provide great local tips and frequently arrange discounted excursions.

HOW MUCH FOR A NIGHT IN...

a campsite

from $6
a resort

from $280
a motel

from $100
a hostel

from $50
a B&B

from $150

evemilla/gettyimages ©

Camping

There are spectacular camping spots for those with their own gear. Campgrounds and cabins are low-cost options in scenic places. Backcountry camping is wild and remote. Permits are available at Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park’s Backcountry Office. Book in advance for camping via these websites: hawaiicounty.ehawaii.gov/ camping camping.ehawaii.gov hookena.org

TOURIST TAXES & FEES

When booking accommodations, look out for an additional resort fee, which is usually tagged onto the end of the booking – this can be as much as $50 per night. Free parking is also not a given; check the small print for if you can park your car, as it may be billed between $20 and $50 per day. In addition, tourist tax is regularly floated as an idea – meaning visitors over 15 years old would have to pay around $50 per stay in Hawaii.

Family Travel

Big Island is a magnificent destination for families (or ‘ohanas), especially outdoorsy ones. With an average temperature of 80°F (26°C), there are ocean dips (in warm waters) to be had, rambles in epic rainforest and volcanic scenery to experience, and an abundance of wildlife to meet. On rainy days, learn about local culture in the museums.

Facilities

Condos and apartments are well suited for families, with kitchens, washers/dryers, highchairs and cots (if requested), separate bedrooms and sometimes more than one bathroom. Big resorts may offer babysitting services. Major chain stores stock standard diapers, formula and baby bottles. If your child requires special products bring them with you to Hawaii.

Eating

Eating on the Big Island is a casual affair and most restaurants welcome children. People eat at a suitably early 6pm dinnertime. All kinds of cuisines are available, from classic American to Italian and island fare. A packed lunch is advisable for longer hikes. Fill up on snacks at in-town grocery stores.

Getting Around

Local buses are free. For adventures further afield, car rental is available. Book cars and child seats in advance; these may be in limited supply. Major attractions have changing facilities. Companies such as Babys Away rent out strollers, highchairs and toys.

Sights

Most major attractions offer concession rates. Some walking trails and beaches are not suitable for children; before going swimming, bodyboarding or snorkeling, check ocean conditions in advance at safebeachday.com/county/big-island.

STARGAZING

Inquisitive minds can explore Big Island and then venture into the universe. The sacred Mauna Kea is Hawaii’s highest mountain – its lofty altitude and clear skies make it one of the best stargazing spots on Earth. Tours (minimum age 13) take place from sea level up to almost 14,000ft where, when darkness falls, the telescopes come out. There’s excellent stargazing at the Visitor Information Station for all ages; note that 4WDs are required beyond this point. Before venturing up the mountain make a stop at the ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center to learn about astronomy, volcanology and ancient voyaging techniques. One planetarium show is included with admission.

SHANE MYERS PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BEST KID-FRIENDLY PICKS

Kīholo State Park Reserve

Spot sea turtles on the northern side of this beach.

Ocean Rider Seahorse Farm

Join a biologist-led tour around this sustainable aquarium of seahorses.

Panaʻewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens

For tropical birds, frogs, alligators, monkeys and Bengal tigers in Hilo’s free zoo.

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

Lava deserts, craters and ranger-led activities for older kids.

Hilton Waikōloa Village Luau

Hotel luaus are cheesy, but kids love the Hawaiian cooking, music and dancing.

Health & Safe Travel

INSURANCE

It’s advisable to purchase insurance, especially if partaking in adventure activities such as high-altitude hikes, water sports, four-wheel driving and diving. Non-US residents should take out travel insurance for medical care, which can be costly. Check your policy covers the activities you plan on doing and to what extent.

Vog

Short-term exposure to volcanic smog is not generally hazardous, but even limited inhalation is not advisable for pregnant women and infants. People with respiratory and heart conditions should also avoid exposure. Inhalation can cause headaches, watery eyes, a sore throat and breathing difficulties. Those who experience these should leave the area immediately.

Car Break-Ins

Big Island has had a spate of break-ins in recent years, during and after the COVID-19 pandemic. Rental cars are a particular target; hide car company branding, don’t leave valuables on display in your car and park in well-lit areas, preferably with a good amount of traffic. Use an anti-theft system if possible, such as a wheel lock or window alarm.

kedsanee/getty images ©

TAP WATER

The water from the tap is perfectly safe to drink, although it may taste a little different from the water where you live.

SWIM SAFELY

Medium hazard

Beachgoers should take caution.

High hazard

Water conditions are extremely dangerous. Do not swim.

Dangerous marine life

Shark, jellyfish, toxic algae etc might be present.

Supervised swimming area

Safe to swim and monitored by lifeguards

Road Accidents

Road accidents are common in Hawaii. There are roughly 10,000 serious accidents per year statewide, with Big Island registering more accidents than either Honolulu or Maui. Road conditions are generally good, but can be hazardous in rain and fog. Slow down in adverse weather, or pull over and let other drivers pass.

EXTREME TEMPERATURES & COLD

In a matter of hours, you can be in tropical sunshine or in icy, freezing conditions on Big Island, which has vastly different temperatures at altitude and at sea level. Prepare for different weather conditions depending on what you are doing. Wrap up warmly, in downs, merino wool, scarves and hats when stargazing on Mauna Loa, and bring light clothing and mineral sunscreen for the beach.

Food, Drink & Nightlife

When to Eat

Breakfast (6am–10am) People rise early, but brekkie can be found until mid-morning.

Lunch (noon–2pm) Plate lunches are typical, served with rice, macaroni salad and one meat portion.

Dinner (6pm–8pm) Fish, chicken and pork dishes are popular for dinner. Don’t expect to eat late; many places close by 9pm.

Where to Eat

High-end restaurants Delicately presented meals

Counter and local joints Cafeteria-style places serving staple meals, usually on disposable dishes

Farmers markets Fresh produce, including local fruits and veg

Food trucks Entrepreneurial chefs serving up island grinds

Poke counters Fresh raw marinated fish often in groceries and fish markets

Cafes Sandwiches, pastries and coffee

Luau Sample several Hawaiian delicacies, including kālua pua‘a (roasted pork)

Shave ice shop Syrup-covered ice chunks

bonchan/shutterstock ©

MENU DECODER

Poke Cubed raw fish with rice and toppings

Loco moco Breakfast found at any basic joint, with rice, beef patty, fried egg and gravy

Inamona Hawaiian relish made of ground kukui (candlenut tree) nuts and sea salt

Saimin Noodle soup topped with kamaboko (steamed fish cake), Spam or char siu (Chinese barbecued pork)

Shave ice Ice-based dessert covered in colored syrup

Lomi-lomi salmon Salted cubed raw fish, onions and tomatoes

Spam musubi Snack food with grilled Spam, rice and a seaweed ribbon

Kālua pua‘a Roast pork made in an underground oven

Haupia Pudding with coconut milk, sugar, cornstarch and water

Pipikaula Salted semi-dried beef

Manapua Hawaii’s fluffy steamed bun, filled with barbecued pork

Lava flow Rum, strawberry, pineapple and coconut-cream cocktail

Poi Steamed, pounded taro

New Africa/shutterstock ©

HOW TO…  Build a Poke Bowl

Poke (pronounced poh-kay) is usually raw cubed pieces of ahi (yellowfin tuna) slathered with soy sauce and sesame oil and tiny pieces of onion. But poke has evolved. Poke can now be any type of raw fish, or cooked shrimp or octopus, even chicken or tofu. Dressings range from citrusy ponzu to mayonnaise, kimchi and wasabi. Poke counters on the Big Island range from fish market–style piles of cubed fish – where you order scoops by weight and take them home to make your own bowl – to poke counters, where you stand in line, then load up poke on a bed of rice or salad, before covering it with toppings such as carrot, avocado, ginger, edamame, mango, cucumber, onions, pickled veggies, sesame seeds and seaweed salad. Poke is a nutritious meal, packed with omega-3 fatty acids and protein.

HOW MUCH FOR...

a shave ice

from $4.50
a cocktail

from $10
a plate lunch

around $15
a pint of beer

around $10
a poke bowl

around $12
a coffee

around $5

HOW TO…  Eat at a Luau

In ancient Hawaii, an ‘aha‘aina luau (meaning meal gathering) was organized to celebrate landmark occasions including weddings and big birthdays. They were held outdoors or in a large structure, with a feast, music and Polynesian dancing. Smaller-scale gatherings still take place in Hawaii, and big hotels stage luaus for tourists, with some 200-plus guests.

Entirely for show and not particularly authentic, hotel luaus still have elements of the traditional dining experience – with communal seating on the floor or around a low table, and an emphasis on aloha – being pleasant and sharing with neighbors. Commercial hotel luaus usually come with tiki huts, umbrella drinks and premixed lava flow cocktails.

The main event is the kālua pig, which traditionally would be cooked whole in an imu (underground oven) on a bed of red-hot stones and covered in banana and ti leaves. At touristy luaus, pork is likely cooked in a kitchen, while a display imu illustrates how the pig would be cooked using authentic methods.

Nutritious poi (purple-gray steamed, pounded taro) will be on the menu. This paste has a creamy texture and sweet flavor and is served to balance out dishes like lomilomi salmon – salted minced fish with diced tomato and green onion. The melt-in-the-mouth laulau consists of meat (pork or chicken) mixed with salted butterfish and steamed in taro and ti leaves. ’Ulu (breadfruit), with a similar consistency to sweet potato, may also be served. Unadventurous eaters usually have an option of teriyaki chicken to fall back on.

Eric Broder Van Dyke/shutterstock ©

At the Table

Luau food is typically served on ti leaves instead of plates, and traditionally without utensils, but commercial luaus will offer knives and forks to those not keen to eat with their hands.

COOL OFF WITH A SHAVE ICE

Not to be confused with a Snow Cone, shave ice (as it’s translated from Pidgin) is literally made up of shavings of ice, rather than crushed ice. It’s served covered with colorful syrupy toppings. An ancient version of the dessert, named kakigōri, originated in Japan and dates back to the Heian period. There are records of blocks of ice being shaved and served with syrup to aristocracy during the summer months. Japanese immigrant workers used their plantation tools to shave flakes off large blocks of ice to eat, coating them with sugar or fruit juice. Shave ice had become a staple on a hot day on the island by the 1950s.

The treat can be found in shave ice shops around the islands. Usually, there’s a queue for the best places, which offer dozens of fruity syrups plus adventurous ones such as bubble gum or wedding cake. To jazz up your shave ice, add a snow cap (a drizzle of condensed milk) to make it creamy. Get toppings for some texture, like coconut shavings, chocolate or mochi (sweet rice cake) chunks and, for the full experience, add a filling in the middle – from anko bean paste to ice cream. Shave ice is served in a pot or bowl with a spoon. Shave ice places are casual affairs – share a communal bench or pull up a plastic chair and dig in.

Responsible Travel

Climate Change & Travel

It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when traveling, and the importance of making changes where we can. Lonely Planet urges all travelers to engage with their travel carbon footprint. There are many carbon calculators online that allow travelers to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey; try resurgence.org/resources/carbon-calculator.html. Many airlines and booking sites offer travelers the option of offsetting the impact of greenhouse gas emissions by contributing to climate-friendly initiatives around the world. We continue to offset the carbon footprint of all Lonely Planet staff travel, while recognising this is a mitigation more than a solution.

SYLVAIN CORDIER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Eco Tours

Providers registered with the Hawaii Ecotourism Association have undergone an assessment to meet green criteria. To find the list, see the association’s travel planner at sustainabletourismhawaii.org.

Reef-Safe Sunscreen

Plenty of sunscreens have harmful chemicals that damage marine life – these are banned by law in Hawaii. Coral-safe sunscreen is readily available in local stores – don’t swim in the ocean wearing anything else.

SOMMAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Be cautious when swimming at beaches directly after heavy rainfall or by river mouths, as road runoff and animal waste are sources of pollution. Wait 72 hours after it rains heavily on the west side of the island where possible.

Tours offer the chance to have a peek at the sustainable Hawaii seafood industry and its practices – only hook-and-line-caught tuna is sold at auction. Visit hawaii-seafood.org/auctiontour for details.

HANDLING WILDLIFE

Many species on the islands are endangered, including Hawaiian monk seals, nēnē geese, crested honeycreepers and sea turtles. Swimmers must keep 50yd from spinner dolphins. While it’s tempting to touch them – refrain. Wildlife can pick up harmful bacteria from humans when touched and handled.

LOCAL BUSINESSES

Skip chain stores, restaurants and hotels in favor of smaller independent, artisanal, craft and mom-and-pop stores. This helps feed the local economy and directly benefits local residents.

Rent an Electric Car

Big Island can be driven across in under two hours, meaning electric cars (which can be charged at more than 60 EV charging points in Hilo and Kona) are a solid choice if you need the freedom of your own wheels without the guilt.

Pick Up Trash

Use the saying ‘leave only footprints and take only memories’ when exploring Big Island. This means clearing up after picnics and barbecues like you were never there and leaving things like shells and lava where they are.

Walk or Take the Bus

If traveling small distances, set off on two feet instead of four wheels to help reduce car emissions or use the reliable and free (at the time of writing) local bus services. Carpool where possible.

SEBARTZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Join the ‘agritourism’ movement and visit a local farm to get fresh produce from the source.

Consider voluntourism to help offset a trip – help on a beach clean-up or work on a farm during a stay.

WATER SHORTAGES

The tap water in Hawaii is completely safe to drink. It’s a good idea to bring a reusable bottle to reduce plastic waste. But when it comes to general water usage, keep in mind that the island frequently experiences water shortages and droughts. Practice water conservation by skipping the bath, taking shorter showers and not continuously running the tap when brushing your teeth.

RESOURCES
sustainabletourismhawaii.org

For eco-tour operators on the Big Island

slowfoodhawaii.com

Info on sustainable locally sourced food

ediblehi.com

Reference point for locally sourced food in state

LGBTIQ+ Travelers

The state of Hawaii is progressive when it comes to LGBTIQ+ rights. State law protects those in the community against discrimination. While there’s not so much of a ‘scene’ on the Big Island, people who identify as LGBTIQ+ can travel with ease here, find a number of gay-friendly businesses and stay in gay-friendly accommodations.

Big Island Pride Events

While Pride celebrations on Big Island are comparatively tiny compared to those in some big cities across the world, a dedicated community runs pride events in Kona and Hilo with all kinds of happenings, from yoga and glow stick parties to drag brunches and pool parties. Kona Pride (konapride.com) takes place in the fall (usually September) and Hawaiʻi Island LGBTQ Pride (hawaiiislandlgbtqpride.org) runs events during the Pride month of June in Hilo and around the island. Gay-friendly events are also posted on local forums and Facebook pages throughout the year.

ALEXANDER SPATARI/GETTY IMAGES ©

ACCOMMODATIONS

Lava Lava Beach Club in Waikōloa Village is a gay-owned and -operated laid-back Hawaiian cottage, and welcomes members of the LGBTIQ+ community with open arms. The hip Pacific 19 hotel in Kona offers special rates for Pride attendees, plus LGBTIQ-dedicated events including a pool party and yoga sessions.

RAINBOW WEDDINGS

Same-sex weddings are big business on Big Island. Most hotels host them, and many people choose to tie the knot here during a destination wedding, free of stigma from staff and onlookers. Inquire directly at hotels to tie the knot or contact one of the dozens of wedding planners specializing in LGBTIQ+ weddings.

Associations & Networks

Websites including gogayhawaii.com/hawaii and gayislandguide.net are sources of information for activities, accommodations and events. The Prizma Hawaiʻi LGBTQ+ Center (facebook.com/prizmahawaii) in Hilo hosts transgender meet-ups and talks, plus fun social events like Queeraoke, and local song circles – a Hawaii community singing tradition.

LGBTIQ-FRIENDLY BUSINESSES

The LGBTIQ+ community will be made to feel welcome in various bars and restaurants, particularly My Bar and Mask-Querade Bar, both of which are in Kailua-Kona and host Pride events and meet-ups for the rainbow community. Various other businesses, including Puna Chocolate Co, Hilo Axe Lounge and the Palace Theater, to name but a few, are allies.

LGBTIQ+ Hawaii

Pre-colonial Hawaiian society had long been stigma-free and recognized same-sex relationships, referring to them as aikāne. Hawaiian also includes the word māhū, meaning ‘third gender.’

Accessible Travel

Big Island caters for disabled travelers to some degree. Many beaches, plus the free local bus service, are wheelchair-accessible. Many hotels have accessible rooms and there are more than a dozen accessible trails.

Airports

Both Kona and Hilo airports offer provisions for wheelchair users, including terminal to curb-side assistance, accessible restrooms, and accessible parking spaces for travelers with mobility, visual and hearing needs.

Car Rental

With advance booking, car-rental agencies can offer hand-controlled vehicles at no extra cost. Spinner knobs, swivel seats and transfer boards may also be available. Wheelchair-accessible vans can be rented from Wheelers of Hawaii in Kona.

Accommodations

Resorts and larger hotels have elevators and wheelchair-accessible rooms (with roll-in showers) and accessible parking. Accessible rooms should be booked in advance. B&Bs and smaller lodgings are often unable to offer the same facilities.

TRAILS

Wheelchair users can get into nature on four trails in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, on the Queen Liliuokalani Garden Loop and at Puʻuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, plus the Rainbow Falls lookout and others.

BEACHES

There are 11 accessible beaches on Big Island: Hāpuna Beach, Kua Bay, Spencer Beach, Kaloko National Park, Kahonaiki Beach, Old Kona Airport Park, Honokohau National Park, King Kamehameha Beach, Honl’s Beach, White Sands Beach and Kahaluʻu Beach.

Accessible Attractions

Wheelchair-accessible attractions include Mokuaikaua Church, Greenwell Gardens, Herb Kane Art Gallery, Greenwell Store Museum, Body Glove Whale Watching Tours, Lavaloha Chocolate Farm and various hotel luaus, plus some diving and helicopter tours.

RESOURCES

Disability & Communication Access Board (health.hawaii.gov/dcab) For info on accessible services at the airports, plus assistance animals, disability parking, and transport around the Big Island.

Wheelchair Traveling (wheelchairtraveling.com) For Big Island and general advice on traveling with a wheelchair visit this comprehensive website.

Accessible Travel Online Resources (shop.lonelyplanet.com/products/accessible-travel-online-resources) Lonely Planet’s free accessible travel guide.

GUIDE & SERVICE DOGS

Guide and service animals are permitted in all accommodations, restaurants, museums and national parks. They are not subject to the general pet quarantine rules if they meet the Department of Agriculture’s minimum requirements. All animals must enter via Honolulu International Airport.

‘Native Hawaiian’ Versus ‘Local’

Though many people outside of the islands tend to use the terms ‘Hawaiian’ and ‘local’ interchangeably, the distinction between the two is incredibly important.

The Difference Between ‘Hawaiian’ & ‘Local’

The term ‘Hawaiian’ only applies to people who are Native Hawaiian – meaning indigenous to Hawaii – along with their culture, language and history. In Hawaiian, the term is kanaka maoli (plural: kānaka maoli). ‘Local,’ on the other hand, is used to indicate someone who is from Hawaii and not necessarily Native Hawaiian. There is still a Hawaiian language term for locals – kamaʻāina, or ‘people of the land’ – although this word is now mostly used within the phrase kamaʻāina discount, the discount that locals can get with a Hawaii state ID.

What’s the Big Deal?

Native Hawaiian history is filled with erasure. Over the centuries since Western discovery in 1778, many parts of Native culture have been forbidden or looked down upon, including he’e nalu (surfing), Native Hawaiian akua (deities) and ʻŌlelo Hawaiʻi (Hawaiian language).

All of that cultural erasure doesn’t even touch on the fact that American businessmen, led by Lorrin Thurston and Sanford B Dole, forcibly took the islands from Queen Lili’uokalani and the Kingdom of Hawai‘i. When the United States government had the chance to return the islands to their rightful owners, it chose not to.

While US Congress did issue the Apology Resolution in 1993 it doesn’t actually undo the damage that was done; the Hawaiian Islands are still under US control and Native Hawaiian culture is still struggling to recover.

When people call everyone from Hawaii ‘Hawaiian,’ it continues the erasure that has plagued this Indigenous group for hundreds of years. If this practice of making ‘Hawaiian’ and ‘local’ synonymous were to become widespread, not only would Hawaiians have a stifled language and culture, they wouldn’t even have a distinguishing group name.

Simply put, while people from California call themselves ‘Californian,’ people from Hawaii will never call themselves ‘Hawaiian’ unless they are Native Hawaiian.

SO, WHO IS ‘LOCAL’?

This terminology situation gets a little trickier when you realize that ‘local’ may not apply to everyone who lives in Hawaii. For example, no one would consider someone who moves to the island for six months to be a local, but then the question is, how long does it take for someone to be considered a local? Does someone have to be an active participant in the local community? Do they need to befriend locals or speak the local dialect known as Pidgin? Ultimately, the answers to those questions are all pretty subjective, as is determining who is a ‘local.’

GLOBALMOMENTS/GETTY IMAGES ©

LANGUAGE

Kamaʻaina: Hawaii locals; literally means ‘people of the land’

Kapu: Forbidden. While it once meant things that were ‘taboo’ or against the law in ancient Hawaiian society, today it is typically used to mean ‘no trespassing,’ typically when there are sacred Hawaiian spots nearby.

Keiki: Children

Lanai: Porch, veranda or balcony

Mauka: Mountains (typically used for directional purposes, as in toward the mountains)

Makai: Ocean (typically used for directional purposes, as in toward the ocean)

ʻOpala: Trash

Shaka: A friendly hand gesture, wherein the three middle fingers are down and the pinky and the thumb remain up. Can be used to mean ‘thank you,’ ‘right on,’ or ‘take it easy.’

Slippers/Slippahs: Flip-flops

Nuts & Bolts

OPENING HOURS

Banks 8:30am–4pm Monday–Friday, some to 6pm Friday, 9am–noon or 1pm Saturday

Bars and clubs Typically noon–midnight daily, some later

Business hours 8:30am–4:30pm Monday–Friday

Restaurants Breakfast 6–10am, lunch 11:30am–2pm, dinner 5–9:30pm. Hours vary by establishment, so check in advance.

Shops 9am–5pm Monday–Saturday, some open for limited hours on Sunday

Smoking

Smoking is illegal in all of Big Island’s public spaces, including bars, restaurants and airports. Many hotel properties are smoke-free. Those aged 21 and older can buy tobacco products and e-cigarettes.

Toilets

Restrooms are available at most beach parks and all national parks, and the latter are usually well-kept.

Internet Access

Wi-fi is available at most accommodations, sometimes for a fee. There is good cell signal in towns, but it may be patchy in remote areas.

GOOD TO KNOW

Hawaii-Aleutian Standard Time (UTC/GMT –10)

Country code +1

Emergencies 911

Big Island population 200,500

Electricity 120V/60Hz

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

There are typically 13 public holidays in Hawaii, when banks, government buildings and schools are closed. These include the following:

New Year’s Day January 1

Martin Luther King Jr Day Third Monday in January

Presidents’ Day Third Monday in February

Prince Kuhio Day March 26

Good Friday Friday before Easter Sunday (in March or April)

Memorial Day Last Monday in May

King Kamehameha Day June 11

Independence Day July 4

Statehood Day Third Friday in August

Labor Day First Monday in September

Veterans Day November 11

Thanksgiving Fourth Thursday in November

Christmas Day December 25

THE HAWAI‘I THE BIG ISLAND

STORYBOOK

Our writers delve deep into different aspects of Hawai‘i the Big Island life

A History of Hawai‘i the Big Island in 15 Places

The Big Island’s story told through its landmarks.

Sarah Etinas

Meet a Big Island Local

Getting to know the people of the Big Island.

Keisha Colon

Protecting the Big Island’s Wildlife

Introducing the Big Island’s natural resources.

Ashley Harrell

Living in the Land of Frozen Fire

Understand the power of life with volcanoes.

Jade Bremner

Kīlauea 2018 lava falls | Jim Wiltschko/Getty Images ©

A HISTORY OF HAWAI‘I THE BIG ISLAND IN

15 PLACES

Likely originally settled by Polynesian voyagers around 1200 CE, the Big Island – and the rest of the Hawaiian Islands – initially had a rather quiet existence. But Western discovery brought a whole new set of economic and political challenges to these isolated islands. By Sarah Etinas

AS THE YOUNGEST of the Hawaiian Islands, the Big Island has a shorter yet no less storied past than the rest of the islands in the archipelago. It all started with voyagers from the Marquesas Islands, who settled down in Hawai‘i likely sometime between 1000 CE and 1200 CE. For a few hundred years, they were able to exist relatively peacefully, living off the land and sea.

Then, in the late 1700s, two major historic events happened: Captain James Cook became the first Westerner to visit the islands and King Kamehameha I unified all of the Hawaiian Islands. The former introduced Hawai‘i to global influences, economies and politics, while the latter kept the inter-island skirmishes to a minimum and created a sense of united Hawaiian identity.

With the presence of Hawai‘i known to the rest of the world, the islands – and the Big Island in particular – changed forever. Missionaries flocked to preach Christianity, dismissing ancient Hawaiian akua (deities). Coffee and sugar plantations popped up, bringing immigrant workers from across the globe. And ultimately, the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown, unjustly putting Hawaiian lands in non-Native hands.

All of that said, the story of the Big Island is still being written, with recent events like Kīlauea Volcano eruptions and Mauna Kea TMT protests shaping the island’s future path.

1. Ka Lae (South Point)

THE ISLAND’S SOUTHERNMOST POINT

Most historians and anthropologists believe that the first people to settle in Hawai‘i were from the Marquesas Island and traveled the 2400 nautical miles in double-hull canoes, bringing their social structures, beliefs and culture with them. It’s believed that they reached the island of Kaua‘i first, but when they did finally reach the Big Island, they docked at the South Point cliffs on the southernmost point of the island.

For more on Ka Lae, see here

2. Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park

ANCIENT HAWAIIAN SETTLEMENT

After settlement Hawaiian culture and society were left to develop in isolation. In ancient Hawai‘i, ali‘i (chiefs), who were believed to be descendants of the akua, ruled the different ahupua‘a (land divisions). The people built heiau (temples) to worship these same akua. Ancient Hawaiians also held great respect for the ‘āina (land), believing in the idea of reciprocity – they picked just the produce they needed and harvested their seafood from fishponds. The ruins of an ancient Hawaiian settlement at Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park offer a glimpse of these aspects of life.

For more on Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park, see here

3. Statue of King Kamehameha in Kapa‘au

THE HOME OF A LEADER

For centuries, the Hawaiian people worked as individual communities in their designated ahupua‘a – that is, until King Kamehameha came around. Born sometime around 1758 in North Kohala, King Kamehameha later united the islands and became the first ruler of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i – but it took quite a journey to get there. Today this brass statue, installed in 1883, stands in front of the old courthouse in Kapaʻau.

For more on Kapaʻau, see here

Halemaʻumaʻu crater | FLORIAN KRAUSS/GETTY IMAGES ©

4. Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park

CAPTAIN COOK’S START AND END

Around the time that King Kamehameha was uniting the islands, Captain James Cook arrived. His first journey took him to Kaua‘i in 1778. The following year he returned – this time to the Big Island’s Kona Coast. He arrived during makahiki, a traditional Hawaiian festival dedicated to the god of fertility and agriculture, Lono. Due to his arrival time and location, the ancient Hawaiian people mistook Cook for Lono himself!

Cook’s visit to the Big Island didn’t end so well. There are a few different iterations of the story, but the general gist is that Cook believed the Native Hawaiians stole one of his boats. In retaliation, he tried to kidnap the island’s king, Kalaniōpuʻu. In response, the islanders killed Cook in Kealakekua Bay, where he originally landed on the Big Island.

For more on Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park, see here

5. Puʻukoholā Heiau National Historic Site

A TRIBUTE TO THE WAR GOD KŪKĀʻILIMOKU

Around 1790, King Kamehameha started his unification plan. In order to give himself the best possible chance, he decided to pay tribute to the gods – more specifically to the war god, Kūkāʻilimoku. He and his warriors built the Puʻukoholā Heiau, bringing the stones from the Pololū Valley 20 miles away. King Kamehameha’s efforts seemed to pay off, as he became the ruler of the Big Island, Maui and Moloka‘i within just five years.

For more on Puʻukoholā Heiau National Historic Site, see here

6. Moku‘aikaua Church

HAWAII’S OLDEST CHRISTIAN CHURCH

By 1820, the first missionaries sailed to the islands, and the Native Hawaiians were surprisingly receptive. Though the missionaries’ main goal was to convert the Native Hawaiians’ beliefs in their own akua to Christianity – and tangentially, to build churches, like the Moku‘aikaua Church (completed in 1836) in Kailua-Kona in the process – their influence reached far beyond that. On one hand, these missionaries meticulously documented the Native Hawaiian way of life; on the other, they deemed many aspects of Hawaiian culture to be vulgar, including he‘e nalu (surfing) and ʻŌlelo Hawaiʻi (the Hawaiian language), actively working to suppress these activities and beliefs.

For more on Moku‘aikaua Church, see here

7. Parker Ranch

THE CALIFORNIAN COWBOYS ARRIVE

In 1793, Captain George Vancouver of the British Royal Navy gave King Kamehameha a few cattle, a gift that would irrevocably affect Hawai‘i’s economy and ecology. Aided by a kapu on cattle (not lifted until 1830), the original small herd proliferated into a dangerous nuisance. Wild cattle destroyed crops and houses, and attacked people. In 1832, Kamehameha III sought help from California cowboys. Three Spanish-Mexican vaquero (cowboys) moved to Hawai‘i and began breaking in horses and rounding up hordes of cattle. They became known as paniolo. Hawaiians were quick to learn and excel in horsemanship and roping. In 1847, Parker Ranch was established; it’s still the state’s largest ranch.

For more on the paniolo, see here

8. Greenwell Farms

THE BIG ISLAND’S BIG BEAN

The first attempts to grow coffee in Hawaii took place in O‘ahu’s Manoa Valley. Though it wasn’t all that successful, the 1829 attempt on the Big Island proved to be much more prosperous. By 1840, Kona coffee was widely documented, and farms – including the well-known Greenwell Farms, which opened in 1850 – started popping up all over the place. It was the bean’s debut at the 1873 Vienna World’s Fair that really put the island’s export on the map. It’s been popular ever since.

For more on Greenwell Farms, see here

Greenwell Farms | TAK PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

9. Honoka‘a

HISTORIC SUGAR HUB

Surprisingly, the Big Island’s sugar boom started after the Kona coffee industry had already established its roots. The charming town of Honoka‘a served as a main sugar hub, boasting two mills: the Honoka‘a Sugar Company and the Haina Sugar Mill. Immigrants from around the world – from Japan to the Philippines to Portugal – moved to the islands to work in the industry. While there was a whole host of factors at play, the greed in the sugar industry significantly contributed to the overthrow of Queen Lili‘uokalani and the Kingdom of Hawai‘i in 1893.

For more on Honoka‘a, see here

10. Hilo’s Palace Theater

WHERE THE FUN HAPPENED

Honoka‘a wasn’t the only town growing with the island’s agricultural development. Downtown Hilo also grew to accommodate more people than ever before, filling up with homes, restaurants and churches. One of the most iconic buildings in town, even to this day, is the Palace Theater. Built in 1925, it became the place for entertainment in Hilo. The first movie shown here was the 1947 silent film, The Son of Zorro.

For more on the theater, see here

11. Pacific Tsunami Museum

HILO: A TSUNAMI SURVIVOR

The Big Island of Hawai‘i has suffered more than its fair share of tsunamis and hurricanes, but the most dangerous one by far took place on April 1, 1946. Triggered by a massive 8.6 magnitude earthquake off the coast of Alaska, this tsunami – and its 16ft waves – beat down and battered the Hilo community. It caused over $126 million in damage and killed approximately 170 people (121 of whom were on the Big Island). The Pacific Tsunami Museum delves into this and other tsunamis.

For more on the museum, see here

12. Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

THE FIRST RESORT-STYLE HOTEL

The Hilo Hotel, built right on the banks of Hilo Bay, claimed the title of the first hotel in Hilo, but it burned down in 1902. While a few other small inns opened to compete with or fill the Hilo Hotel’s shoes, they were typically built for the low-maintenance traveler: those looking to trek miles to see the island’s volcanoes. It wasn’t until 1965, when the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel opened, that the first luxury-style beach resort came about. It was so lavish it was called one of the world’s greatest hotels.

For more on Mauna Kea Beach, see here

13. Kīlauea Volcano

THE BIG ISLAND’S GROWTH CONTINUES

The Big Island is home to three active volcanoes, two of which – Mauna Loa and Kīlauea – have ongoing eruptions. In fact, from 1983 to 2018 Kīlauea was nearly continually active. During this period of time, officially known as the Puʻu ʻŌʻō eruption, 48 sq miles of land was buried – including Kalapana and the old Pohoiki Beach – and an additional 500 acres created. Visitors flocked to the volcano, just to see lava flowing in the distance.

For more on Kīlauea, see here

Kīlauea | BLUEBARRONPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

14. Mauna Kea

A SACRED NATIVE HAWAIIAN SITE

With the overthrow of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i, the Hawaiian Islands were unjustly taken from their rightful owners – and the consequences still being felt today. From 2009 to 2019, there were plans to add a giant Thirty Meter Telescope (TMT) to the summit of Mauna Kea. (While there were other smaller telescopes on the volcano, this would be the largest.) Mauna Kea, however, holds a special place in the hearts of Native Hawaiians, as part of the respected ‘āina as well as a sacred connection between the land and the heavens. In July 2019, thousands of Native Hawaiians blocked the construction of the TMT – and were ultimately successful.

For more on Mauna Kea, see here

15. Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

THE POWER OF PELE

A visit to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park isn’t complete without beholding Halemaʻumaʻu crater, home to Pele, the tempestuous and violent goddess of fire. Her appearance (often in the form of lava eruptions) is loud and brazen, a catalyst for great destruction but also substantial creation. Despite crowds numbering in the hundreds, the proximity of her power compels most to used hushed tones in reverent respect.

For more on Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, see here

MEET A

BIG ISLAND LOCAL

Welcome the heartland of the aloha spirit and what it means to act with love. Keisha Colon introduces her people.

oneinchpunch/shutterstock ©

ON THE BIG ISLAND, you will find the home of Pelehonuamea (Pele): Kīlauea. This woman, the goddess of fire and volcanoes, is the creator of the Big Island’s newly birthed landscape of fresh, black lava flows. And, from these lava flows, springs a people who could only come from an environment made of flame and earth – the Big Island’s people are warm on the inside, like a volcanic hot spot buried deep within the crust. They regard Pele as ‘Tūtū Pele’ – as a grandmother, as an ancestor, as if she is their own flesh and blood. In doing so, residents of the Big Island are redefining the meaning of family.

In my own backyard, I am reminded of the meaning of family. I come home to a party bustling with friends and neighbors. Someone has connected to a speaker, and they’re playing the same 20-or-so Hawaiian reggae songs we’ve all been listening to since we were kids. When I enter the yard, I’m greeted by a series of pecks on the cheeks, hugs and ‘Howzits.’ Many of these people are not the ones who raised me, but I have embraced them as family – as ʻohana.

Fly View Productions/Getty Images ©

In the morning, I will rise with the sun, and drive down south. I’ll spend the first few hours of the day riding horses and listening to stories from my kūpuna (elders). The women here have taken me under their wing, and share a part of their culture and a piece of our island’s history with me. To me, these people are also my family.

Afterward, I will bathe in the ocean, rinsing the sweat from my skin. Salt replaces salt. It is a moment of reprieve before I drive to work at a small nonprofit, focused on native plant conservation. We are a small but mighty team, and together we share our manaʻo (knowledge) with the community. To me, our team and our community are my family.

Scott Lowden/Getty Images ©

Finally, at the end of the day, I will return home to that little get-together in my backyard. The people there will again welcome me into their arms, with hugs and kisses. To me, that is my family.

To understand the root of Hawaiʻi’s aloha spirit, I bid you to look toward the neighborhoods and out across the ranchlands but, mostly, the lava flows. Tūtū Pele’s eruptions still grow and reshape our landscape. The Big Island is an amorphous entity, ever-changing, like our meaning of family.

Adam Hester/Getty Images ©

Hawaiian Pidgin

A new creole language rose in Hawaiʻi during the days of the sugarcane plantation to accommodate the influx of other ethnic groups into the islands. This language, Hawaiian Pidgin, is spoken today by 600,000-plus people, compared to the 2000 to 5000 speakers of the Native Hawaiian language.

I’M HAWAIIAN, AND SOME OTHER STUFF

My roots on the Big Island are deeply planted. On one side of my family, there are the Hawaiians who can trace their lineage as far back as any non-royalty can, and on the other are the Portuguese and Japanese immigrants who arrived for sugarcane in the 1800s. Some of those people would go on to become paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys), farmers and more. And myself? I became a writer and educator, following in the footsteps of my great-great grandmother, who championed the Hawaiian language renaissance. Eventually, these ancestries would converge in me, born and raised in South Kona, on a small coffee farm tended by my grandparents. This sort of story is not uncommon in Hawaiʻi – few can say they’re 100% anything, and I am no different. Immigration has turned the Big Island into the cultural melting pot that it is today.

LIVING IN

THE LAND OF FROZEN FIRE

Big Island continues to shape-shift thanks to its four active volcanoes, which both destroy and create. By Jade Bremner

Mauna Loa 2022 eruption | BRYAN BUSOVICKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HAWAII’S YOUNGEST ISLAND, estimated to be around half a million years old (Kauai is the oldest at 5.1 million), is still alive and growing, thanks to magma spewing from the Earth, caused by shifts in the Pacific Plate. But you don’t have to be peering into a crater to see evidence of Big Island’s volcanic activity – it lies all around, with miles of jagged boulder-strewn lava fields, rocky coastlines and jet-black sandy beaches, all punctuated by verdant rainforest.

The island has four of Hawaii’s six active volcanoes (Kīlauea, Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea and Hualālai), and two dormant volcanoes (Mahukona and Kohala Volcano). Mighty Mauna Loa is the world’s largest active volcano, and moody Kīlauea is the island’s most active – with a 2018 eruption destroying hundreds of Big Island homes but also forming new land. ‘About 875 acres of new land was added to the coastline,’ explains Matthew Patrick, a geologist at the USGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory. ‘Many of the eruptions reach the shore; this addition of new land will certainly continue in the future,’ says Patrick.

It’s also possible that active Mauna Loa could overtake Mauna Kea as the world’s tallest mountain. ‘Mauna Loa is larger in volume than Mauna Kea but just a hair shorter,’ says Patrick. ‘Mauna Loa is still in the prime of its life so will continue to erupt, while Mauna Kea is past its prime and won’t be erupting nearly as much in the future. Mauna Loa may exceed Mauna Kea at some point, but this will almost certainly take some time – more than just one eruption.’ Mauna Loa last erupted in November 2022 (at the time of writing), with lava spilling into Halemaʻumaʻu crater. Visitors can get up close to the ever-changing calderas of Mauna Loa and Kīlauea inside Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park and responsibly watch active eruptions and red-hot fiery lava.

Spiritual Significance

Big Island is the place to fully understand the power of Pele, or Pelehonuamea, the goddess of fire and volcanoes, who Hawaiians believe is the creator of the Hawaiian islands and currently resides in the active Kīlauea. According to religion she is embodied in eruptions and is volatile, both destroying towns and forests and creating new land. Many indigenous people consider Pele a family member, who deserves the utmost respect – many say they can feel her presence on the summit of Kīlauea. When visiting, it is important to do so respectfully. It’s believed that those who take lava or rocks away from the islands will feel the wrath of Pele. Mauna Kea also holds great spiritual significance in Hawaiian culture. The highest mountain in the world is believed to connect the land to the heavens. When traveling to the peak, visitors are advised to avoid standing on the true summit, the sacred Pu‘u Wekiu cinder cone.

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park | WIRESTOCK CREATORS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Price of Paradise

Big Island is split into nine lava hazard zones – Zone 1 being the riskiest. People do live in all zones, but as you would expect housing is cheapest in Zone 1 – the rift zone of Kīlauea and Mauna Loa. In 2018, the gated residential community of Leilani Estates had 24 volcanic fissures open up, dispensing molten lava, which ate up hundreds of properties.

Talking about the Kīlauea eruption, long-term Big Island resident and Arnott’s Lodge guide Andras Toth says, ‘I was cooking dinner, and my neighbor was running down our driveway. “OK, guys, run! There’s lava in the block behind our street,” said my neighbor. He was in US Special Forces so he doesn’t scare easily – but he was kind of gray in color.’ Toth was one of more than 700 Puna residents whose homes were engulfed by lava in the months-long Kīlauea eruption.

His house, all its contents and his 3000-sq-ft plot of land were destroyed. He and his wife Eszter Kreisz had time to grab one bag and their pets before leaving. ‘Kīlauea had not had any major volcanic activity in 60 years,’ says Toth, who was attracted to this paradise location due to its price. ‘We looked around and we thought, “Wow. This is a luxury community. It’s super lush, with beautiful people.” It was a really, really nice neighborhood – especially for someone coming from New York City… To my wife’s credit, she got the maximum insurance possible on our home.’

Living in an affordable area allowed Toth and Kreisz to build their own home, a unique geodesic dome, which they enjoyed for just over a year before the eruption. The couple has since built another geodesic dome in a different Big Island neighborhood with their insurance payout. Many unlucky residents are still battling insurance companies about settlements.

Going with the Flow

Sara Garcia has lived in Zone 2, close to Pahala, for 11 years, but is not fearful. ‘[Living here] you sort of don’t feel the sense of danger. I think people can get used to anything.’ But some live here out of necessity, as it has cheaper land and lower property tax.

‘These higher-risk areas have kind of become a last refuge for the people being marginalized and pushed out [of other areas] for financial reasons,’ says Big Island homeowner David Collier. ‘They would rather have that risk than have to leave the islands.’ Collier explains that although there are inextricable socioeconomics tied up with living on a volcano, a silver lining is that residents are almost insulated from the development seen on other Hawaiian Islands. ‘Because of the volcanoes, residents are protected from those forces... In a lot of ways, it’s like going back to a different era of Hawaii. It’s so removed from the Waikiki culture. There’s also a real appeal for people that want to get back to a more natural, often agricultural lifestyle.’

Garcia describes the resilient, almost frontier mentality of those living in high-risk lava areas, where many properties are not connected to mains water or electricity. ‘There’s a hippie vibe in some areas, with people who want to live freer, be off the grid, have a community and live in nature,’ she says, maintaining that her neighborhood is the perfect place to be. ‘I have never regretted moving here, not for a moment. Anywhere you live, you’re in danger of something. In Washington, we were in danger of wildfires, and occasional hurricanes; in Texas I was in danger of tornadoes, and so on.’

Stresses of Volcano Life

Despite the benefits of living in a volcano community, there are obvious physical and psychological stresses. Garcia could see Kīlauea erupting from her house in 2018, and while there was no immediate threat to her life, she had a big problem with vog (volcanic smog). ‘There was so much vog and sulfur in the air that air quality was in the red. We taped plastic over all of our windows, stuffed towels under the doors and then just ran air purifiers all day long,’ she says.

After an eruption warning, Kreisz admits that worry creeps into daily life. ‘We were told we’d have to leave our home [ahead of the 2018 Kīlauea eruption] at a moment’s notice,’ she says. ‘Every little shake or noise kept me awake. I was so exhausted, and I was completely out of it by the time the lava reached us.’ The build-up, the escaping, the roller-coaster weeks of worrying if her property would survive – it all had an effect. ‘I do have PTSD,’ she says. Even though she is settled in a new Zone 3 house, ‘there is always a risk.’

Living on the slopes of Mauna Loa, Collier also felt anxious during the 12 December eruption in 2022. ‘It wasn’t necessarily rational, the flow was 15 miles away or so, but we had just had our baby and I could see the lava from my yard. I knew it was still a long way off, but I couldn’t sleep, because historically the flows have come down into where my house is.’ By incredible fortune, the flow dramatically slowed down after four or five days and Collier’s property remained unharmed.

Luckily, Hawai‘i’s lava flows are typically very slow-moving. ‘Life is rarely imperiled,’ says Collier. ‘I see a lot of people who have lost their homes, but they are thankful, not that they lost their homes but that they had them to begin with. We can view Pele through the lens of destruction, but everything that Hawaii has to offer is a product of volcanic processes.’

PROTECTING

THE BIG ISLAND’S WILDLIFE

Invasive species, overtourism and climate change threaten the Big Island’s creatures and ecosystems. By Ashley Harrell

Butterflyfish | IFISH/GETTY IMAGES ©

STEWARDSHIP OF NATURAL resources is a traditional Hawaiian value, reflected in aloha ʻāina – respect for the land. But Hawai‘i has also been called the extinction capital of the world, with more than 400 species listed as threatened or endangered, and the Big Island’s diverse ecological zones are under tremendous pressure. Here’s why – and how you can help.

Invasive Species

After the Big Island emerged from the sea as a barren lava mountain, plants and animals started to arrive in three ways that all start with the letter ‘w’: waves, wind and wings. The creatures that survived the journey evolved into new forms and new species, with many losing the defenses that were once crucial to their survival. This is one reason the endemics of Hawai‘i fare so poorly against the onslaught of invasive species and environmental changes brought about by humans.

Each new predator, insect or disease that arrives here finds an ecosystem not used to being confronted with such novel threats – and the results have been disastrous. More than 270 species of Hawaiian plants, insects, birds and snails have already disappeared entirely – and more are on their way out. Here are a couple of the most pressing issues, along with some guidance for how to avoid becoming part of the problem.

Rapid ʻŌhiʻa Death

While hiking, you may encounter signage and shoe cleaning stations that call your attention to Rapid ʻŌhiʻa Death (ROD). This newly identified fungal disease grows inside of ʻōhiʻa trees, which are the backbone of most of the island’s native forests. They protect watersheds, provide habitat and food for native birds and plants, and keep coral reefs healthy by preventing erosion. When the fungus enters the tree, it cuts off the flow of water, and infected trees begin to die within a few days to a few weeks. Thousands of ROD-infected trees have been found in all areas on the Big Island, and there is no remedy or cure.

To avoid spreading the fungus, don’t cut branches or scruff up roots, which can allow for the fungus to enter the tree. At the shoe-cleaning stations installed at trailheads by the Department of Land & Natural Resources, brush the soil off your shoes and spray them with rubbing alcohol when it’s provided.

Ants

Hawai‘i evolved with no native ant species, but humans unwittingly brought in more than 60 of them. Some are aggressive and have had significant impacts on the environment, reducing biodiversity by chasing other insects away and harming native animals like birds and sea turtles. While hiking on the Big Island, you may encounter trail advisories or areas that are closed off due to these invasive ants. For example, during research, a section of the Alakahakai National Historic Trail within Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park was closed due to little fire ants, which have a painful sting and spread easily to other areas.

When they first came to Hawai‘i, there were no protocols in place, but today the Hawai‘i Ant Lab (based in Hilo) has researchers and technicians working to contain them. Do your part by staying on trails, and if you see signage about ants, don’t sit down or place your belongings on the ground. Avoid brushing against trees or bushes, and don’t remove any flowers, plants or other stuff from natural areas. If you’re unlucky enough to encounter stinging ants, shake or brush them off and leave the area immediately. If you notice any nausea, cramping, swelling of the tongue or throat or dizziness, seek medical attention. For more info visit littlefireants.com.

Agriculture

Polynesians brought taro, sugarcane, coconut palms, rats, pigs and chickens, and they cleared swaths of lowland forest, creating terraces, irrigation systems and fishponds. While one thousand years of intense agriculture (and introduced animals, particularly rats) did have an impact, Polynesians also developed land use practices that were sustainable and highly productive. The Europeans greatly accelerated the rate of introduction of non-native species, leading to wide-scale environmental degradation, and the expansion of agriculture led to significant habitat destruction. The worst of it happened during the 19th century, when cattle and other livestock multiplied around the island and destroyed hundreds of acres of forest. Interestingly, the forests were an important source of water for sugarcane, and Hawaii’s forest reserve system was created in part to support the emerging cash crop.

Overtourism

Tourism is the largest industry on the Island of Hawai‘i, with nearly two million visitors bringing in some $2 billion a year. And as the number of tourists has returned to pre-pandemic levels, the strain on the Big Island’s creatures and ecosystems has again ramped up. Building tourist infrastructure such as large-scale developments and golf courses is synonymous with deforestation and habitat loss for thousands of species; moreover, additional humans around means more burning of fossil fuels, more water shortages and excesses of waste and other kinds of pollution. In addition, today’s tourists have become increasingly problematic in their travel style. With GPS and cell phones, people are more prone to venture off the beaten track for that cool selfie like the one they saw on Instagram.

In an attempt to rebuild tourism more sustainably in the wake of the pandemic, community leaders have developed a Hawai‘i Destination Management Action Plan. Protecting culturally and ecologically significant places is top of the agenda, along with spearheading education and community-based programs and improving infrastructure and transportation. Meanwhile, in recent years a couple of new policies protecting ocean life have gone into effect and offer a ray of hope.

Spinner Dolphins

Hawaiian spinner dolphins are some of the most fascinating and playful cetaceans around, and for many who visited the Big Island over the last few decades, seeing them was a highlight of the trip. In 2021, though, the National Ocean & Atmospheric Administration banned swimming with dolphins, and some 70 tour operators were forced to stop offering encounters. This might seem strange, considering that dolphins often approach boats and swimmers, and even seem enthusiastic about the interactions. In fact, this is exactly the problem.

Dolphins are social creatures, and when they spend time around humans, that’s time they don’t spend on their normal behaviors, such as resting. Over time, as more humans show up to interact with dolphins, those diversions reduce the amount of energy the dolphins have for activities like foraging. It leads to a decline in overall health, leaving dolphins less capable of fighting diseases, protecting themselves and reproducing.

Although the tours have been outlawed, there are still places on the coast where dolphins are common. Do your part by staying 50 yards away, and do not harass, feed, pursue, approach, surround, swim with or attempt to touch dolphins. Limit your time observing them to 30 minutes, then get on with your life so they can too.

Spinner dolphins | ALVIS UPITIS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Green Sand Beach

Papakolea, the famously green beach on the Big Island’s southernmost point, is a place of wonder and awe. Its volcanic, olivine sand has drawn countless visitors in recent years, and for those willing to make the exposed, dusty hike, it’s really a beautiful thing. The problem has come with the travelers who instead climb into the backs of trucks driven by locals, who off-road through the dunes to the beach for a fee. Many travelers don’t realize that the rides are illegal and harm the coastal ecosystems. The deep ruts and dirt paths created by the vehicles have caused damage to delicate dune plants like ohai, a native shrub boasting vibrant orange and red blossoms. Furthermore, the loose dirt stirred up by vehicular traffic eventually reaches the ocean, posing a threat to coral reefs by obstructing essential sunlight. In addition, the area holds sacred significance to Native Hawaiians, as iwi kupuna (ancient bones) are interred here.

Honor the culture and environment of Hawai‘i by passing up the truck ride and hiking to the beach instead.

Coral Reefs

Hawaiʻi’s coral reefs teem with over 500 species of tropical fish species, including bright yellow tangs, striped butterflyfish and Moorish idols, silver needlefish and neon-colored wrasse, which change sex (and color) as they mature. Stay off the reef, and watch your flippers, which can easily damage fragile living coral.

In addition, avoid using sunscreen in sensitive tidal areas. In 2021, the state of Hawaii banned the sales of sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate, which damage coral. The following year, the Big Island went a step further and outlawed the sale and distribution of all chemical sunscreens. The only sunscreens for sale on the island are mineral-based, with zinc oxide and titanium oxide as the active ingredients. A great way to protect yourself and the coral is to avoid sunscreen altogether, and wear high-UPF (ultraviolet protection factor) clothing, such as a rash guard, instead.

Climate Change

Long-term shifts in global temperatures and weather patterns are taking a toll on the Big Island. As the planet warms, in large part due to to the burning of fossil fuels, the clouds over the island are thinning, which means less rain. Large swaths of the island are therefore experiencing longer dry spells than ever before, which is in turn destroying native vegetation that can’t adapt to such conditions. Meanwhile, dry and invasive grasses, which are quick to ignite during a wildlife fire, as we saw with Maui in 2023, are spreading. At present, vast fields of such grasses near Waimea pose a serious concern.

Meanwhile, rising seas and intense storms are eroding the Big Island’s coast and creating a problem with cesspools. Unlike other islands, the Big Island is mainly composed of basalt, meaning there’s less soil available. So when rising seas lift the island’s ground water closer to the surface, liquids expelled by septic-tank leach fields and cesspools have nowhere to go but back into the ocean. Researchers at the University of Hawaii at Hilo used dyes to follow how far the effluent from septic tanks traveled, and their findings showed that the waste from these tanks could reach shorelines, polluting coastal waters and damaging coral reefs. Low-lying coastal wetlands that have been filled in and built over are the most susceptible.

Climate change therefore has massive impacts on the local population, particularly Native Hawaiians who reside on the coast and rely on fish populations for their income and diet. Farmers are also facing severe impacts from drought, unpredictable weather patterns and an overall loss of rain on the leeward side of the island. Do your part to help Hawaii and the Earth by flying on fuel-efficient aircrafts and patronizing eco-friendly, local businesses. Pack light, walk or bike when you can and, when possible, avoid buying stuff wrapped in paper or plastic.

‘The Kona Coast is known for calm, clear waters, unique lava formations and coral reefs teeming with fish and other marine life. Pick up some snorkel gear and head directly for the water.’

CATA HULA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ELENA GRAHAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

‘Kohala Mountain Road between Waimea and Hawi is one of the most jaw-droppingly scenic drives on the island. The 20-mile-long road traverses rolling upcountry, curving, climbing and descending between 2000ft and 3000ft of elevation.’

THIS BOOK

Destination Editor

Sarah Stocking

Contributing Writer

Ligaya Malones

Production Editor

Hannah Cartmel

Book Designer

Catalina Aragón

Cartographer

Val Kremenchutskaya

Assisting Editors

Gabrielle Innes, Peter Cruttenden

Cover Researcher

Kat Marsh

Thanks Ronan Abayawickrema, Melanie Dankel, Vicky Smith

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

CRN 554153

6th edition – Sep 2024

ISBN 978 1 83758 635 6

© Lonely Planet 2024 Photographs © as indicated 2024

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