Lonely Planet South India & Kerala
Author: Joe Bindloss
Date: 0101-01-01 00:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Travel
Description: Lonely Planet's South India & Kerala is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Float along Kerala's backwaters as the sun sinks behind whispering palms, hit the beach in Goa and watch incense-clouded evening processions around Madurai's joyful Meenakshi Amman Temple - all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of South India & Kerala and begin your journey now! Inside Lonely Planet's South India & Kerala: Full-colour maps and images throughout Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to you
Publisher: Lonely Planet

South India & Kerala

CONTENTS

PLAN YOUR TRIP

The Journey Begins Here

South India & Kerala Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared

The Food Scene

The Outdoors

THE GUIDE

Mumbai (Bombay)

Colaba

Fort

Marine Drive

Lower Parel & Midtown

The Western Suburbs

Maharashtra

Pune

Aurangabad

Nashik

Konkan Coast

Goa

Arambol

Bardez

Canacona

Panaji

Salcete

Karnataka

Bengaluru

Mysuru

Western Ghats

The Karnataka Coast

Hampi

Badami & Beyond

Vijayapura

Telangana & Andhra Pradesh

Hyderabad

Vijayawada

Visakhapatnam

Kerala

Kochi (Cochin)

Alappuzha (Alleppey)

Munnar

Periyar Tiger Reserve

Varkala

Kannur

Wayanad

Tamil Nadu

Chennai

Mamallapuram

Puducherry (Pondicherry)

Thanjavur

Madurai

Coonoor

Ooty

Andaman Islands

Port Blair

Swaraj Island (Havelock)

Shaheed Island (Neil)

TOOLKIT

Arriving

Getting Around

Navigate the South India Railways

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Women Travellers

Beach Etiquette

Scams

Nuts & Bolts

Festivals

Language

STORYBOOK

A History of South India & Kerala in 15 Places

Meet the People of South India & Kerala

From Kathakali to Kollywood

The Women Lifesavers on Goa’s Beaches

Making Waves

Mumbai’s Water Heritage

This Book

SOUTH INDIA & KERALA

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Ezhara Beach, Kannur region | ROBERT FRANCIS/ROBERTHARDING/GETTY IMAGES ©

I’ve been exploring India’s beautiful south for years now – from the misty heights of the lush Western Ghats to the southernmost tip of the country where sunsets blaze over Kanyakumari’s oceanfront temple – and this richly diverse region never fails to surprise me. It all began in colourful Chennai, and I’ll always have a special soft spot for Tamil Nadu’s sky-reaching temples and Puducherry’s pastel-painted streets, as well as the Andamans’ turquoise shallows. These days though, it’s backwaters-laced Kerala that lures me back the most. Whenever I return to Kerala, I head straight for ancient Kochi to stroll around Fort Cochin’s art-filled streets, devour lightly spiced vada and flaky parotta in the lively squares and join morning yoga sessions. This laid-back city evokes everything that makes Kerala sparkle, and its ongoing transformation into a contemporary-art hub just adds to the allure.

Isabella Noble

@isabellamnoble

Isabella is a Spain-based travel journalist who has been exploring India for over a decade and has written 40+ Lonely Planet guides.

My favourite experience is discovering endless palm-lined beaches, quiet glinting backwaters and delicious regional cuisine in Kerala’s serene far north.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define South India & Kerala

SANTI45 PERVARAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

There’s nowhere like Hyderabad. The futuristic glitz and glam of Banjara Hills, Jubilee Hills, Cyberabad and Hitec City is mirrored by visions of grandeur and progress from past centuries in the old city, where palaces, elaborate tombs and regal mosques stand hemmed in by bazaars piled with beaded wedding outfits and jewels.

Joe Bindloss

@joe_on_travel

Joe has been writing about India for more than 25 years.

DMITRY RUKHLENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

It wasn’t until living in the Western suburbs that I really fell for Mumbai neigh-bourhood after neighbourhood of creatives stretching up along the coast (the rents getting cheaper the further north you go), with brilliant bars, cafe culture, galleries, street art and theatres that go hand in hand with the quirky, ambitious crowds in residence.

Lucie Grace

@80bathes

Lucie is a freelance travel writer based in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

JOHN WARBURTON-LEE PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Situated in Puducherry’s Tamil Quarter is Maison Perumal, a thoughtfully restored centuries-old Tamil home turned heritage hotel. Its excellent signature restaurant’s menu is a homage to the Union Territory’s intertwined Franco-Tamil history – and one of the few spots in town to get a taste of Creole cuisine.

Christabel Lobo

@whereschristabel

Christabel is a writer and illustrator based between South India, the UAE and Washington, DC.

LESHIY985/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mapusa’s Friday Market offers an intimate glimpse into Goan life. It shows the produce that sustains people’s lives, teaches you lessons about the importance of preservation techniques, the souring agents in Goan food and the earth-friendly tools used.

Joanna Lobo

@thatdoggonelady

Joanna is a freelance writer and editor from Goa.

JOHN NOBLE/LONELY PLANET ©

I’m a sucker for the mystique of ruined cities, so Hampi exerts an irresistible pull. The fact that it was abandoned after being conquered in the 16th century means the buildings that survived remain much as they were left back then.

John Noble

@johnnoble11

John is a travel writer who has contributed to around 200 LP titles from around the globe.

CULTURAL SOUTH INDIA

South India is a sprawling, richly varied region, home to countless different communities with their own customs, cultures and histories. The historical relics of the south’s many criss-crossing cultures rank among its most intriguing sights (from rainbow-coloured Hindu temples to magnificent centuries-old mosques to unrivalled Buddhist cave art), while learning about the customs of its diverse communities is a highlight of any trip here. The dynamic, multicultural urban identities of the big southern cities, meanwhile, are intimately intertwined with vibrant arts and culinary scenes.

Basilica of Bom Jesus, Old Goa | PAUL HARDING 00/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Multicultural Cities

Powerhouse Mumbai has long embraced global influences and made them its own, while Bengaluru is a buzzing tech hub drawing people from across the globe.

PETE BURANA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Through Flavours

Different parts of the south are known for their distinctive regional cuisines and most recipes here reveal influences acquired over the centuries from a raft of cultures.

SMDSS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Places of Worship

South India’s multiculturalism shines in its countless religious buildings, many of which have existed (in one shape or another) for centuries and remain key pillars of local communities.

BEST MULTICULTURAL EXPERIENCES

Unravel the diverse cultural tapestry of megacity 1 Mumbai and explore its unique Parsi and Jewish legacies.

Wander around Hyderabad’s ancient Islamic monuments, starting with the unmissable 16th-century 2 Charminar and the Nizams’ lavish Chowmahalla Palace.

Admire Goa’s European-influenced churches, with highlights dotted around the architecturally rich capital 3 Panaji and Unesco-listed Old Goa.

See how Buddhist, Jain and Hindu monks adorned the famous 4 Ellora Caves over five centuries – the pinnacle of ancient Indian rock-cut architecture.

Step into the Hindu rituals of Chennai’s masterful Dravidian 5 Kapaleeshwarar Temple, at the heart of one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Tamil Nadu’s capital.

BEACH TIME

South India is home to the country’s dreamiest stretches of coastline, from jagged laterite cliffs framing sweeps of soft golden sand to buzzy, wave-whipped surf beaches. Whether you’re keen to ride the waves, relax on the sands, go kayaking or paddleboarding or even join the beach-party scene, there are strands for all tastes.

Safety & Etiquette

Always take care with strong currents when swimming off southern India’s beaches. See for our tips on local beach etiquette.

ARNAV PRATAP SINGH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Surf Hub

India’s surf scene is booming and the southern part of the country is at its epicentre, with a raft of schools, competitions, events and more.

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Urban Strands

Mumbai and Chennai both have beloved, sprawling city beaches where local communities gather for sunsets, street-food snacks and leisurely strolls.

BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES

Soak up the pink-tinged sunsets, relaxed atmosphere and powdery sands of 1 Gokarna, where Om Beach is a favourite beauty.

Go beach-hopping around some of Goa’s quieter strands, from pretty surf-loving 2 Morjim to peaceful, undeveloped Galgibaga – both nesting sites for olive ridley turtles.

Catch surf waves and relax on a string of sparkling-gold beaches beneath rust-red cliffs in Kerala’s top traveller hangout 3 Varkala.

Make the journey to remote 4 Swaraj Island in the Andamans for aquamarine waves, superb diving and sugar-white sands including magical Radhanagar.

Join the blossoming surf scene and low-key beachy vibe in 5 Kovalam, one of Tamil Nadu’s liveliest wave-riding hubs.

WORLD OF ARTS

South India has an important ancient heritage of classical arts going back centuries, including dance, music, drama and even martial arts, as well as traditional visual arts. Today, a wave of dazzling (and easily accessible) performances keeps these arts thoroughly alive, while contemporary creativity shines in the many spectacular art galleries, festivals and design initiatives.

Arts Festivals

From major film festivals to literary events to international-art gatherings, South India bursts with celebrations of the arts, and planning trips around headline events is hugely popular.

LLOYD VAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ancient Arts

A raft of classical dance and music and traditional crafts handed down over the centuries are just a taste of the south’s rich and distinctive artistic heritage, with each region spotlighting its own specialities.

EDUCATION IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Contemporary Art

Several southern metropolises are powerhouses of contemporary South Asian art, including of course trendsetting Mumbai, but also Kochi, Chennai and Bengaluru.

BEST ARTS EXPERIENCES

Weave between contemporary art galleries and classical Tamil dance and music centres on an arts-focused spin around 1 Chennai.

Check out creative galleries and art festivals in Mumbai’s 2 Fort and Colaba and see the art-deco marvels on Marine Drive, or jump on the art trail in cutting-edge Bengaluru.

Seek out the passionate sound of traditional ancient qawwali (Islamic devotional singing) by catching a performance in historical 3 Hyderabad.

Make your own ceramic tiles at an 4 azulejo workshop in the Goan capital Panaji, where many buildings are decorated with these hand-painted beauties.

Roam around mural-adorned streets and explore ambitious galleries in 5 Fort Cochin, home of both the Kochi–Muziris Biennale and Kathakali dance-drama.

YOGA & WELLNESS

Yoga has its roots firmly in India and you can dive into this ancient discipline all over the south, from serious training centres to drop-in beach classes. Ayurveda – India’s traditional medicine system – also has its origins in South India, where Kerala is its epicentre with endless retreats, therapies and centres.

Yoga, Goa | IMAGE PROFESSIONALS GMBH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Vipassana

Many centres in Buddhist areas offer training in vipassana (mindfulness meditation) and Buddhist philosophy; many require vows of silence and abstinence.

Yoga Training

Many places across South India offer drop-in yoga classes (especially popular beach destinations), but for more serious training you usually need to book courses well ahead.

BEST YOGA & WELLNESS EXPERIENCES

Learn from the greats on an extended course in Karnataka’s lively ashtanga vinyasa yoga hub 1 Mysuru or flow by the beach in Gokarna.

Join a yoga retreat and soak up ayurveda at Lonavala’s 2 Kaivalyadhama Yoga Institute, the world’s oldest scientific yoga centre.

Stretch into the day with ocean-view yoga classes in beachy 3 Varkala or savour Kerala’s ayurveda scene in Kovalam.

Catch Puducherry’s 4 International Yoga Festival in January, with competitions, workshops, classes and more.

Tap into the Goan wellness-and-yoga scene in 5 Arambol, from drum circles to renowned yoga schools.

CULINARY THRILLS

One of the greatest thrills of travelling around South India is the chance to eat your way through its richly diverse gastronomy. Each state – often each district or even town – has its own distinct flavours, culinary influences and local specialities. From Mumbai’s renowned street-food stalls and all-you-can-eat thalis with regional twists, to creative menus by contemporary kitchens and some of India’s finest coffee (both classic and third-wave) – it’s all here. Dig in!

Markets Galore

From heaving seafood markets to corner stalls drenched with the scents of spices, South India’s kitchens are fuelled by the freshest produce from its marvellous markets.

SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Local Expertise

Expert-led food tours of culinary-minded neighbourhoods and home-style cooking classes with local chefs offer a unique and rewarding insight into South India’s regional cuisines.

ANNA EWA BIENIEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Street Food

Mumbai’s irresistible vada pav is just the most famous example of a delectable street-food culture that typically sees mobile kitchens and local stalls spring to life in the early morning or around sunset.

BEST FOOD & DRINK EXPERIENCES

Deep-dive into Mumbai’s culinary history and diversity on an expert-guided food tour around 1 Fort, or you can go restaurant-hopping here.

Unravel the intricate world of Goan cuisine over a lavish garden lunch experience with the 2 Goan Kitchen in Loutolim.

Hop between cool third-wave cafes and creative microbreweries in 3 Bengaluru, birthplace of India’s speciality-coffee revolution and booming craft-beer scene.

Find the perfect 4 biryani in Hyderabad, a famously food-tastic city where renowned restaurants prepare this beloved, intricate dish.

Dig into multicultural Mattancherry’s food scene by walking tour or join a homestay cooking class in Kerala-cuisine haven 5 Kochi.

WILD PLACES

Some of India’s most beloved wildlife reserves are hidden in the misty Western Ghats, where tiger numbers are generally (slowly) increasing thanks to local initiatives, and other emblematic creatures amble through dense forests. Savouring nature out in the wilds of South India’s strictly protected national parks and tiger reserves (usually by 4WD safari) is a highlight of any trip, while bird sanctuaries provide havens for feathered species and along the coast you may spot dolphins swimming offshore.

Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary | MARTIN PELANEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve

A cluster of Western Ghats wildlife reserves spanning Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu forms India’s largest protected forest area and a contiguous wildlife corridor, including Bandipur, Nagarhole, Mudumalai and Wayanad.

ANDRIJOSEF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Wildlife-Spotting

Elusive big cats and wild elephants are key draws, but also gaurs, sloth bears, deer, wild boars, langurs, giant squirrels, countless birds and more. Best months for sightings: typically February to April.

SANTOSH NAMBY/500PX ©

Active Adventures

While walking within most national parks and tiger reserves isn’t permitted (for conservation/safety reasons), an array of active pursuits is often available in surrounding areas, from rafting to hiking.

BEST WILDLIFE & NATURE EXPERIENCES

Head out hiking with a local guide through Kerala’s much-loved 1 Periyar Tiger Reserve, known for its pioneering ecotourism initiatives.

Join a land or water safari in Karnataka’s marvellous 2 Nagarhole Tiger Reserve, home to some of India’s top wildlife-spotting (including tigers, if you’re lucky).

Delve into the wilds of Tamil Nadu’s ethereal 3 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve, where tigers, elephants, birds and deer are big draws on jeep or minibus safaris.

Explore the wilds of beloved 4 Bandipur Tiger Reserve in southern Karnataka; elephants, leopards and tigers wander the deciduous forests here.

Thread through the forests of Kerala’s ethereal 5 Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary – famous for its populations of wild elephants – on a jeep safari.

HILL STATIONS

The traditional home of many Adivasi communities, South India’s cool, green Western Ghats today offer a popular retreat from the sweltering plains below. A string of lively hill stations established during the colonial era now pulls in weekenders, honeymooners and other travellers seeking mountain views, great hiking and lush scenery contrasting undulating tea-and-coffee plantations with wild forests and sky-spiralling peaks.

The Nilgiris

Perhaps most famous of all South India’s hill stations are those in Tamil Nadu’s biodiverse Nilgiris – Ooty, Coonoor and Kotagiri – best reached aboard the Unesco-listed Nilgiri Mountain Railway.

NAUFAL MQ/GETTY IMAGES ©

Wildlife Reserves

Many of South India’s most-loved hill stations double as jumping-off points for exploring its celebrated national parks, wildlife reserves and other natural spaces.

DETHAN PUNALUR/GETTY IMAGES ©

Mountain Hikes

There are superb hiking trails around the hill stations, though regulations change often regarding which areas are open, so check locally or join a reputable trekking guide.

BEST HILL STATIONS EXPERIENCES

Ride the famed Nilgiri Mountain Railway to 1 Ooty, ‘Queen of Hill Stations’, to explore indigenous history, botanical gardens and colonial-era architecture.

Dive into India’s tea-growing industry, stay at some of Kerala’s finest homestays and hike through entrancing green-clad landscapes around lively 2 Munnar.

Head into Karnataka’s Western Ghats for gorgeous greenery, countryside accommodation and some of India’s top coffee estates around 3 Kodagu and Chikkamagaluru.

Sink into mountain serenity in 4 Coonoor, where tea tastings led by a plantation owner and nature walks with a local naturalist are highlights.

Go hiking for hilltop views or join a yoga or ayurveda retreat in laid-back 5 Lonavala, easily reached from both Mumbai and Pune.

KERALA’S WATERS

Kerala’s vast lakes, twinkling lagoons and meandering canals unravel inland, creating the state’s famous network of backwaters and revealing a slow-going rural world where ancient crafts and industries flourish. One of South India’s most relaxing and rewarding experiences is to explore the backwaters by kayak, canoe, paddleboard or houseboat.

Alappuzha (Alleppey) backwaters | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Go Green

Kayaking and paddleboarding are popular and highly rewarding low-impact ways to explore Kerala’s backwaters, while punt-powered canoes also allow you to quietly drift along the waterways.

Environmental Issues

Concerns continue to grow about the environmental impact of houseboats and growing houseboat tourism; it pays to research ahead and plan carefully.

BEST BACKWATERS EXPERIENCES

1 Go kayaking through the palm-shaded canals and waterways around Alleppey, Kerala’s main backwaters hub.

Head out on a classic houseboat trip around Kerala’s serene 2 northern backwaters, a quieter offbeat alternative to busy Alleppey.

Explore the meandering backwaters around laid-back 3 Munroe Island, by punt-powered canoe, kayak or paddleboard.

4 Catch an everyday ferry for the local-style backwaters experience, perhaps to Kottayam from Alleppey or across Kochi’s waters.

Spend a few nights soaking up the natural beauty, peaceful environment and village life at a 5 homestay or boutique retreat out on the backwaters.

TERRIFIC TEMPLES

South India’s grand temples echo with the legacies of bygone dynasties and ancient empires, which gradually left their marks in the form of magnificent carvings, sky-reaching gopuram (gateway towers) and other architectural wonders. But temples here also evoke the region’s modern-day spirituality in all its varied forms.

Tamil Temples

Deservedly top of many South Indian temple itineraries is the state of Tamil Nadu, renowned for its towering Hindu temples typically crowned with kaleidoscopic gopuram.

F9PHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Rock-Cut Temples

A crop of southern rock-cut cave temples ranks among the country’s most exquisite examples of temple architecture, particularly in Maharashtra and Tamil Nadu.

SAIKO3P/GETTY IMAGES ©

Temple Etiquette

Some of South India’s most revered working temples are open only to devotees, while others welcome visitors (though often excluding central shrines). Check locally and dress respectfully.

BEST TEMPLE EXPERIENCES

Travel back in time to the greatest heights of Tamil temple architecture at Thanjavur’s Chola-era 1 Brihadishwara Temple and Mamallapuram’s Pallava-built Shore Temple.

Immerse yourself in the pujas (offerings or prayers), festivals and processions of Madurai’s splendid 2 Meenakshi Amman Temple, a Nayak-era delight and major Hindu pilgrimage site.

Wander among mighty Vijayanagar’s rosy-hued temples and crumbling palaces, today strewn among otherworldly boulders and hills in 3 Hampi, Karnataka’s beautiful ruined city.

Join thousands of daily devotees making the steep pilgrimage climb to holy Tirumala’s 4 Sri Venkateshwara Temple, in southern Andhra Pradesh.

Be wowed by the extraordinary, ancient, UNESCO-protected rock-cut temples at 5 Ajanta (Buddhist) and Ellora (Buddhist, Hindu and Jain) in northern Maharashtra.

COLONIAL RELICS

Some of South India’s most famous buildings were created (or in some cases, adapted) during its centuries under colonial rule, including imposing forts, European-style churches, grand public monuments and lavish palaces and mansions. Exploring them is a great way to learn about this long and complex chapter of the country’s history.

Puducherry | JOSE HERNANDEZ CAMERA 51/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

European Influences

From the 16th century onwards, many parts of South India were colonised by the British, Portuguese, French or Dutch (or a combination). Some local architecture and even some regional cuisines still carry a European influence.

Formidable Forts

Among the south’s most notable colonial-era remnants is a collection of dramatic coastal forts, from Goa’s Cabo de Rama Fort to Chennai’s British-built Fort St George.

BEST COLONIAL-ERA HISTORY EXPERIENCES

Learn about Mumbai’s colonial past at the celebrated waterfront 1 Gateway of India (now for many a symbol of Indian independence) and the neo-Gothic buildings.

Marvel at the architecture of the early-20th-century 2 Mysuru Palace, one of India’s great royal buildings, built in Indo-Saracenic style for the Wadiyar maharajas.

Explore the UNESCO-listed religious relics of 3 Old Goa, including the Basilica de Bom Jesus and Sé Cathedral.

Soak up the many colourful buildings of the ‘French Quarter’ in relaxed 4 Puducherry, a former French colony turned wellness hub south of Chennai.

Wander the ancient, atmospheric streets of 5 Fort Cochin, where colonial-era buildings are now being reborn as galleries, cafes and guesthouses.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

ITINERARIES

Highlights of Tamil Nadu & Kerala

Allow: 3 weeks Distance: 1110km

Dive into the country’s two southernmost states on a thrilling trip linking urban hubs and coastal towns with the mist-wrapped peaks and twinkling tea plantations of the Western Ghats. Take in Unesco-listed Tamil temples and South Indian wildlife, or go surfing, practise yoga, or relax on the beaches.

1 CHENNAI 3 DAYS

Ease into life in the south with Tamil Nadu’s culture-rich capital Chennai. It’s a busy, dynamic city, where ancient neighbourhoods reveal rainbow-coloured temples, landmark monuments and superb museums, but you can also enjoy buzzy nightlife, great third-wave coffee and fabulous food and shopping scenes.

Detour: Pause in Mamallapuram, where the UNESCO-listed Shore Temple and other Pallava monuments dazzle, or go surfing in Kovalam. 1 hour by car or 2 hours by bus

2 PUDUCHERRY 3 DAYS

The former French colony and Union Territory of Puducherry is a delightful, laid-back, pastel-painted coastal town with a flair for yoga, wellness and spirituality. Strolling its heritage-rich streets is a highlight of any southern itinerary. See colonial-era buildings transformed into boutique hotels and creative cafes; catch a few surf waves or go kayaking; savour the wonderful fusion cooking; and visit mystical Auroville.

3 THANJAVUR 1–2 DAYS

Thanjavur’s UNESCO-listed Brihadishwara Temple recalls the heights of the great Chola empire and ranks among South India’s most glorious temples. Stay overnight to visit in both the morning and evening, learn about local crafts and take in other outstanding nearby temples.

Extension: En route to Madurai, explore fascinating Chettinad over a day or two (stunning heritage hotels, opulent architecture, delectable cuisine).

4 MADURAI 2 DAYS

Nothing prepares you for the spectacular Meenakshi Amman Temple, one of Tamil Nadu’s (and South India’s) great Hindu sites, renowned for its vibrant paintwork, soaring gopurams and regular pujas. But Madurai is also a buzzing southern city with famously good food (try a culinary tour), packed markets, a Nayak-era palace, and hidden Jain sculptures in the nearby hills.

Meenakshi Amman Temple | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5 KERALA’S WESTERN GHATS 4 DAYS

The beauty of Munnar – electric-green tea plantations, misty Western Ghats scenery – is best enjoyed slowly, by going trekking in the hills and relaxing over chai at one of the wonderful homestays. It’s a short hop south to explore the wild expanses of biodiverse Periyar Tiger Reserve, known for its guided hikes, ecotourism adventures and homestay accommodation.

PAUL HARDING 00/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6 KERALA’S SOUTH COAST 4 DAYS

Relax in beachy Varkala, where a centuries-old temple sits just inland from red cliffs and golden beaches. It’s a big surfing, yoga and ayurveda hub. Then dive into Kerala’s backwaters around Alappuzha and Marari, for kayaking, paddleboarding and canoeing or hire a houseboat.

Detour: Stop for a night or two on palm-studded Munroe Island.

ANDRIJOSEF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

7 KOCHI 3 DAYS

Wrap up your southern adventure in Kochi, Kerala’s laid-back, arts-loving cultural hub. Explore Fort Cochin on foot, wander around multicultural Mattancherry, catch a Kathakali show and hang out in the cafes, squares and galleries, or sample the cooking classes and culinary tours.

Extension: Add on a few days exploring Kerala’s beautiful north coast and backwaters, around Kannur and/or Bekal.

PHOTOPANKPL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ITINERARIES

Cities, Mountains & Quiet Coasts

Allow: 3 weeks Distance: 800km

Travel from the urban fun of tech hub Bengaluru and the yoga vibes of splendid Mysuru, to the Western Ghats’ wildlife-prowled nature reserves and mist-cloaked hill stations, then on to the less-known coasts of northern Kerala and southern Karnataka. This trip pulls in many of South India’s most memorable experiences.

1 BENGALURU 3 DAYS

Karnataka’s stylish capital Bengaluru combines a fantastic food-and-drink scene with gorgeous green spaces, superb museums and lots of Deccan history. Enjoy some of India’s pioneering third-wave coffee spots and leading craft-beer bars, and explore the traditional old neighbourhood of the Pete, the lively markets and the diverse local cuisine.

2 MYSURU 3 DAYS

Ancient Mysuru is famous for its 20th-century Wadiyar palace (an India-wide highlight) and vibrant Dasara (Dussehra) festival. It’s also the birthplace of ashtanga vinyasa yoga, drawing people from all over the world with its many yoga schools and holistic energy.

Extension: En route to Ooty, go wildlife-spotting in Karnataka’s Bandipur Tiger Reserve or Tamil Nadu’s Mudumalai Tiger Reserve (advance bookings recommended).

3 OOTY 2–3 DAYS

People flock to Ooty – the most famous of Tamil Nadu’s colonial-era hill stations – for cool air, mountain scenery and heritage accommodation. Find quiet retreats on the outskirts, wander the country-feel lanes and learn about the Nilgiris’ Adivasi cultures.

Extension: A quick hop aboard the UNESCO-listed Nilgiri Mountain Railway drops you in nearby Coonoor for tea-tastings, nature walks and more hill station atmosphere.

Ooty | JALEBIJI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 NAGARHOLE TIGER RESERVE – 3 DAYS

Forested Nagarhole Tiger Reserve is a South India highlight, home to some of the country’s largest tiger populations and many other creatures. Dive into its wild expanses on jeep, bus or boat safaris (book ahead!)

Extension: Kerala’s Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary is within day-tripping reach of Nagarhole – or split your visit with a couple of nights in each (Wayanad has lovely homestays).

5 KODAGU 2–3 DAYS

Push on a little further north to Kodagu, which grows some of India’s finest coffee and offers Western Ghats relaxation at tempting countryside accommodation. Visiting local coffee estates is a key draw, while the beautiful green landscapes and moderate climate make this a top region for hiking, with views often stretching across into neighbouring Kerala.

JOHN NOBLE/LONELY PLANET ©

6 KERALA’S NORTH COAST 3–4 DAYS

Enjoy the beachfront-homestay scene in Kannur, Kerala’s main spot for seeing the ancient theyyam ritual (Nov–April). Or relax at a luxe seaside retreat around Bekal and Nileshwar, for easy access to Kerala’s northern backwaters around Valiyaparamba.

Extension: Instead of heading north to Mangaluru, you could zip south to end in culture-rich Kochi.

IDOME/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

7 MANGALURU & AROUND 2 DAYS

For a taste of off-the-beaten track Karnataka, explore the ancient port city of Mangaluru, home to great markets, temples and regional cuisine (plus a handy airport). There’s also a lively surf scene just north of Mangaluru, around Mulki and Udupi.

Extension: Continue north up the Karnataka coast to beachy Gokarna and/or onwards into southern Goa.

JOHN NOBLE/LONELY PLANET ©

ITINERARIES

A Southern Tour

Allow: 1 month (or more) Distance: 2500km

With at least a month to play with, this ‘greatest hits’ itinerary immerses you in a rich variety of southern regions, landing in showstopping Mumbai and taking in several Maharashtra highlights, then gradually travelling south through Goa, Karnataka and Kerala at your preferred pace. If you only have a few weeks, the Mumbai-to-Goa leg makes a rewarding shorter itinerary.

1 MUMBAI 4–5 DAYS

Cosmopolitan Mumbai is a million adventures in its own right, from the fabulous art-deco buildings along Marine Drive to the beating heart of Bollywood. Unrivalled street food, ambitious art galleries, colonial-era relics, India’s best nightlife – it’s all here.

Extension: Take a break among the dazzling vineyards of Nashik, the country’s most renowned wine region.

2 ELLORA & AJANTA CAVES 3 DAYS

Base yourself in Aurangabad for day trips to these two Unesco-listed north-Maharashtra marvels – the incredible frescoed Buddhist caves of Ajanta and the rock-cut caves of Ellora, which are a mix of Hindu, Jain and Buddhist shrines. Daulatabad Fort is another highlight near Ellora.

3 GOA 1 WEEK

A week in Goa provides a fabulous taster of this small, beach-loving beauty. Pick between lively northern beach towns and the quieter south, or head to Panaji and Old Goa to soak up history and architecture. Waterfall hikes, yoga, cultural festivals, spice-plantation visits and exquisite Goan cooking are just a few other highlights.

Extension: Hop across to Gokarna for Karnataka’s dreamy beaches.

Goa | LENA SERDITOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 HAMPI 3 DAYS

Set against a spectacular dusty landscape of scattered boulders, Hampi is an unmissable highlight of South India. Explore the bewitching ruins of once-mighty Vijayanagar, including the still active Virupaksha Temple. Bouldering and climbing add to the appeal.

5 MYSURU 3 DAYS

Karnataka’s city of palaces is an architectural feast. Take in the glittering halls and grounds of Mysuru Palace, the former home of the Wadiyar maharajas, and learn about ashtanga vinyasa yoga. Rewarding day trips include cycling around Tipu Sultan’s old capital, Srirangapatna.

Extension: Soak up the energy of tech capital Bengaluru for a few days.

6 THE WESTERN GHATS 3–4 DAYS

Head up into the untouched forests of the Western Ghats and take your pick of strictly protected wildlife reserves: Nagarhole, Wayanad, Bandipur and Mudumalai. Wayanad offers rewarding hill hiking outside the wildlife sanctuary.

Extension: Hop across into Tamil Nadu to enjoy the Nilgiris’ hill stations.

7 KOCHI 3 DAYS

Kerala’s cultural hub of Kochi is a wonderful place to end your South Indian sojourn, home to inspired heritage hotels and homestays, and creative boutiques, galleries and cuisine. Then there are Kathakali shows, backwaters adventures, kayaking trips...

Extension: Spin south to Varkala and/or Kovalam, Kerala’s prime beach towns, or head east into Tamil Nadu.

ITINERARIES

Cities & Civilisations

Allow: 2–3 weeks Distance: 1400km

From one cultural capital to another, this (mostly) off-the-beaten-track route travels inland between Telangana and Karnataka, taking in Islamic forts, Hindu temples, historic palaces and coffee-growing hills. Along the way, you’ll discover the legacies of several great ancient South Indian civilisations, whose relics lie strewn across this region’s countryside, and lively cities.

1 HYDERABAD 3 DAYS

Start in Telangana’s history-drenched capital Hyderabad, where a wealth of centuries-old Islamic monuments awaits, including the 16th-century Golconda Fort and the great Qutb Shahi Tombs. With a few days here you could also day-trip to the forts and temples of historic Warangal.

Extension: With more time, dig into underrated Andhra Pradesh; rewarding stops include Vijayawada for ancient Buddhist sites, and coastal Visakhapatnam.

2 VIJAYAPURA 2 DAYS

Travel southwest from Hyderabad to northern Karnataka to discover the offbeat ancient city of the Adil Shahi dynasty. The magnificent mausoleums, palaces, mosques and other monuments in Vijayapura create an open-air museum evoking a time when much of the Deccan was under Islamic rule. Highlights include the grand Gol Gumbaz and Ibrahim Rouza mausoleums.

3 BADAMI 1–2 DAYS

It’s an easy hop south to Badami, with its ancient rock-cut cave temples. The Chalukya dynasty once ruled a large part of central and southern India and its legacy can still be felt in Badami’s astonishing cave art (among India’s finest of its kind) and early-Hindu temples. There’s more spectacular temple architecture at Pattadakal and Aihole, visited from Badami or en route to Hampi.

4 HAMPI 2–3 DAYS

Zip southeast to the ruined city of Hampi – once mighty Vijayanagar. The earthy landscapes and ethereal ruins here are complemented by one of South India’s most relaxed backpacker scenes. Staying a few days allows you to soak up the scenery and also explore smaller scattered sights (perhaps by bike) beyond the landmark must-sees.

Gol Gumbaz mausoleum | JOHN NOBLE/LONELY PLANET ©

5 BENGALURU 3 DAYS

No Karnataka itinerary is complete without a break in the vibrant capital Bengaluru. Join a walking tour to dive into the city’s neighbourhoods, and sample local brews and creative cooking at some of the country’s most sophisticated bars, restaurants and craft-beer spots.

Extension: Majestic Mysuru is a rewarding add-on from Bengaluru, especially for yoga lovers.

SUNIL AK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6 CHIKKAMAGALURU 2 DAYS

Glorious mountains, scenic hikes and some of India’s best coffee lure travellers to Chikkamagaluru in Karnataka’s Western Ghats. Stay in a countryside homestay for a few nights and road-trip around the Bababudangiri Hills.

Detour: Known for their Unesco-listed 12th-century Hoysala architecture, Belur and Halebidu are easily explored from Chikkamagaluru or en route to Kodagu.

SVSORION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

7 KODAGU 3 DAYS

Drink in the lush Western Ghats landscapes in Kodagu, one of India’s coffee-growing capitals, which shares many charms with Chikkamagaluru. Here you can hike up misty peaks, visit the market town of Madikeri and tour coffee estates, before relaxing at a delightful country retreat.

Extension: Head west to the surf-washed Karnataka Coast or Kerala’s quieter northern shores.

CIRIL MONTEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WHEN TO GO

South India’s November-to-March high season brings lively festivals and great weather, though things vary from one state to another.

The vibrant festival culture of the south ranks among its key draws, and many big events coincide with the tourism high season. This time brings calmer seas, cooler nights and hot – not sweltering – days, and great wildlife-spotting in the Western Ghats.

Shoulder season (April/May and August to October) can be rewarding, quieter and more affordable, though some regions see additional monsoon rains during these months. Several major festivals also fall in shoulder season – Ganesh Chaturthi, Dussehra, Onam.

Low season is usually from around May to July, when temperatures and humidity climb, the monsoon arrives and some accommodation closes, especially in beach destinations like Goa. But this is a great time to bag accommodation deals and enjoy places local-style without the crowds. The monsoon is also considered prime time for ayurveda retreats.

No matter the time of year, South India’s famed hill stations offer crisp mountain air and a refreshing retreat from the coasts and cities (and everyone wants to enjoy them – book ahead!).

Dussehra festival, Mysuru | ARUN SAMBHU MISHRA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

I LIVE HERE

MYSURU MAGIC

Aditya Damani owns Anokhi Garden Guesthouse and Cafe in Mysuru @anokhigarden

Mysuru, with its year-round beautiful weather, is best around the monsoon-to-winter season. The city peaks with the Hindu festivals Dasara (Dussehra) and Diwali (September/October) – the entire city lit with diyas is a sight to behold! This typically coincides with the main yoga season from September to February, as Mysuru is the training ground for many renowned yoga teachers. Here Sanskrit scholars, Indian classical music maestros, yoga masters and artists converge into a melting pot that’s steeped in history.

FLOODS & DROUGHTS

In recent years, water has become a key concern for much of southern India. Devastating floods have swept through several states, including Kerala and Tamil Nadu, while major protests have erupted over access to the Cauvery River’s water supplies.

MONSOON SEASONS

From around June to September/October, the southwest monsoon sweeps south to north, bringing with it draining humidity and often rain warnings. The eastern coast, the Andaman Islands and southern Kerala often see heavy rain and sometimes cyclones during the northeast monsoon from October to early December.

Top Southern Festivals

India’s famous festival of lights, Diwali, is celebrated across South India in October/November with fireworks, rangoli elaborate designs, gifts and lanterns. In the south, it’s often associated with Krishna’s victory over Naraka. While primarily a Hindu festival, it is also honoured with variations in other religions.

Kerala’s greatest cultural celebration is Onam, a 10-day Hindu event at the beginning of the first month of the Malayalam calendar (usually August/September), with culinary feasts, beautiful rangoli and more, marking the harvest season.

The Hindu festival of Ganesh Chaturthi (August/September) is big in many regions but especially Mumbai and Pune; decorative statues are displayed all over the place, then ceremoniously immersed in water bodies, including the ocean.

Most spectacular in Mysuru, Dussehra (Dasara) is a showstopping 10-day Hindu celebration of good triumphing over evil; in the south, it revolves around Durga’s defeat of the demon Mahishasura.

The revelry of Carnival kicks off in February (sometimes March) and is especially renowned in Goa, which has concerts, parades and parties; catch it in the capital Panaji.

Tamil Nadu’s top festival is Pongal, celebrating the end of the harvest season in mid-January with gorgeous kolam traditional art forms, festive thalis and pongal (a sweet rice dish made with jaggery).

Though more famous in northern India, places like Mumbai and Pune joyfully celebrate Holi – a renowned festival of colours – each March, while other southern states hold various religious celebrations around this time.

From mid-December to mid-January, Tamil Nadu hosts the Chennai Festival of Music & Dance, one of the world’s greatest celebrations of classical South Indian arts.

I LIVE HERE

WILDLIFE SEASON

Varghese KM and Beena KJ run Varnam Homestay in Wayanad, Kerala

October to April is the best time to visit tiger reserves and national parks in Kerala and Karnataka, which are a biodiversity hotspot. Peak mating time for tigers is from November to February. If there is no rain during March and April we can often see tigers in the water holes inside the sanctuaries. Other animals, including elephants, leopards, bears and peacocks, and a variety of birds can also be spotted.

Sunbird, Wayanad | P G JAYAPRAKASH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MOUNTAIN COOLNESS

During the winter months, temperatures in South India’s most-elevated hill stations – such as Ooty, Coonoor and Munnar – can sometimes drop below 10°C overnight. The rainy season, meanwhile, sees typical daytime averages ranging from around 15°C to over 20°C.

Weather Through the Year (Mumbai)

JANUARY

Average daytime max: 30°C

Days of rainfall: 0

FEBRUARY

Average daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 0

MARCH

Average daytime max: 32°C

Days of rainfall: 0

APRIL

Average daytime max: 32°C

Days of rainfall: 1

MAY

Average daytime max: 33°C

Days of rainfall: 1

JUNE

Average daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 14

JULY

Average daytime max: 30°C

Days of rainfall: 23

AUGUST

Average daytime max: 29°C

Days of rainfall: 21

SEPTEMBER

Average daytime max: 30°C

Days of rainfall: 14

OCTOBER

Average daytime max: 33°C

Days of rainfall: 3

NOVEMBER

Average daytime max: 32°C

Days of rainfall: 1

DECEMBER

Average daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 0–1

GET PREPARED

FOR SOUTH INDIA & KERALA

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain

Hampi ruins | MAYUR KAKADE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Clothes

Clothing styles In major tourism destinations and many parts of South India’s big cities, people dress less conservatively. That said, many areas of the south are relatively conservative dress-wise, and dressing respectfully while visiting is important, particularly for places of worship. Baggy trousers, long skirts and the like are ideal, along with traditional local garments.

Salwar kameez Many women in India wear this traditional dresslike tunic-and-trouser combination (often with a dupatta), or a kurta with trousers.

Shawls and dupatta Handy for throwing on whenever needed, including for visits to religious buildings.

Light, breathable garments Much of South India is hot and humid, so light cotton fabrics in pale tones are best.

Hat and sun protection A good brimmed hat is your friend (along with a reliable SPF).

Beachwear for tips on beach etiquette.

Jackets, jumpers and jeans It can be cool up in the hill stations, so it’s helpful to have layers; these are easily bought locally too.

Trainers and sandals Bring comfortable footwear for hiking and sightseeing on foot. Slip-on sandals are handy for sights where footwear must be left outside.

Monsoon visits You’ll want rain sandals, a jacket and an umbrella.

Smart outfits Some of the upmarket restaurants, bars and clubs have strict dress codes, which usually means no sandals, shorts etc.

READ

The God of Small Things (Arundhati Roy; 1997) Magically written Kerala-based novel of passion and caste.

Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found (Suketu Mehta; 2004) Unexpected, insider Mumbai stories weave through this Pulitzer Prize finalist.

Deities & Devotees: Cinema, Religion and Politics in South India (Uma Maheswari Bhrugubanda; 2018) Impact of regional cin-ema on cultural identity.

Midnight’s Children (Salman Rushdie; 1981) Classic allegory on Independence and Partition, in Rushdie’s signature magical realism style.

Manners

Meals Always shake hands, eat and pass food with your right hand (the left is reserved for more unsavoury activities), and wash your hands before and after eating.

Language and Greetings Many different languages are spoken across South India; see for useful words, including typical greetings. Saying namaste with hands together in a prayer gesture is a traditional, respectful Hindu greeting and is the best greeting for someone of the opposite gender.

Photography Photography inside religious shrines is generally prohibited; photography of funerals or processions of the dead is also likely to cause offence. Ask permission before photographing people, houses, ceremonies or sacred sites.

Shoes Shoes must be removed before entering most temples and mosques; follow local example if in doubt. In general, it’s customary to remove your shoes before entering someone’s home.

Religious sites Many places of worship welcome (respectful) visitors, but many others are open only to devotees.

WATCH

AJ PICS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

The Lunchbox (Ritesh Batra; 2013; pictured) Romantic Mumbai tale born from a mixed-up tiffin delivery.

RRR (SS Rajamouli; 2022) Successful, all-action Telugu period romp following two pre-Independence freedom fighters.

Chennai Express (Rohit Shetty; 2013) Superstars Deepika Padukone and Shah Rukh Khan lead this lively Bollywood spin across South India.

Dhobi Ghat (Kiran Rao; 2011) Absorbing story about life in contemporary Mumbai and India.

Nachom-ia Kumpasar (Bardroy Barretto; 2014) Konkani hit based on the life of two musicians, offering a great introduction to Goan music and culture.

LISTEN

Gems of Carnatic Music: TM Krishna (Live in Concert 2006) From innovative Chennai-born Carnatic vocalist and socio-political activist TM Krishna.

The Inner Self Awakens (Agam; 2012) Debut album by the hit Bengaluru-born band known for combining rock with Carnatic influences.

Violin of Southern India (L Subramaniam; 1996) Violin genius L Subramaniam is credited with taking Carnatic music to the international stage.

Therukural (Arivu; 2019) Groundbreaking, politically outspoken debut album by Tamil rapper Arivu, who also performs with The Casteless Collective.

THE FOOD SCENE

South India’s food scene is one that embraces its traditional heritage and ingredients while keeping up with the times.

Indian fish platter served on a banana leaf | MAHI RYAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

You will always find a good meal in South India. The region’s proximity to the sea means an abundance of fish and seafood dishes. Local ingredients make up much of the food in the south.

There’s an abundance of rice and rice products, breads, chillies – which are an integral part of many curries – spices like tirphal (a cousin to Sichuan pepper), and an abundance of coconut, coconut oil and coconut milk. The souring agents are of note, from the dried seed of mangoes and hog plum, to kokum (garcinia indica) and toddy vinegar. Rice and coconut are predominantly found in the sweets too, which vary according to season and festival.

India’s south has a rich history of breads, which range from the familiar baked pao and poee (in Goa) to the rice and dal steamed idlis, vadas and polle.

In terms of drinks, coffee is the beverage of choice, typically filter coffee. There are some local spirits too, like feni, mahua and toddy.

Wholesome Meals

The best place to get a taste of local food is at food stalls, carts or restaurants. These are unassuming, typically family-run spaces, with a menu that is local, and wholesome. In Goa are the thali joints, which do cheap fish-curry-rice meal plates that offer a taste of the state’s abundant seafood, and its coconut-rich curries.

Karnataka’s Udupi region has Udupi hotels, which are now found across the country, and still serve affordable vegetarian fare like dosas, idlis, vadas and popular South Indian snacks. In Bengaluru, restaurants are called hotels, so Kamat hotels serve food from North Karnataka, while Military hotels are known for their meat and seafood dishes. Maharashtra is known for its variety of street food, and tiny stalls serving hearty lunches and snacks.

Breaking Bread

Bread is an integral part of the cuisines in South India. This bread is made with wheat, maida or millets but also rice, lentils and bananas.

The two common items here are idli and dosa, made with a batter of fermented lentils and rice. A similar batter is used for the uttapam, paniyaram and medu vada. These are typically eaten with a chutney or sambar (a vegetable stew).

Rice flour, fermented and then steamed, is used to make puttu, idiyappam, sannas and appam. Rice flour pancakes, called pathiri, apa or polle, are sometimes eaten instead of rotis.

Mumbai’s East Indian community makes fugias, which are round, deep-fried morsels. Some southern states make ragi mudde, ball-shaped dumplings of millets.

It is the Portuguese who are credited with introducing baking and bread to Goa (and India). The state has a variety of these baked goods, from the poee (like pita bread) and kakonn (hard, crusty) to pao (regular soft bread) and katre pao (shaped like an hourglass). Goa and Mangalore also share a love for buns, sweet pita-like breads made with banana and deep fried.

Masala dosa | FOTOSUNNY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

FESTIVALS

Ganesh Chaturthi (pictured) One of the most important Hindu festivals arrives in the monsoon and is a month-long celebration of the elephant god. His love for food translates into the celebrations which include sweets, and special vegetarian meals.

Christmas An important Catholic festival, food is important here too. Meat is a large part of the festive table, and coconut-and-rice sweets.

Eid The festival usually is food-heavy, with wholesome meat dishes and sweets.

New Year Celebrated across South India, this day (not 1 January) features much festivities and sweets.

Onam Kerala’s greatest festival marks the harvest season. The onasadya is a big part of the festival and is a feast of wholesome vegetarian dishes, and sweets, eaten on banana leaves.

PETE BURANA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Specialities

Sweet Treats

Patoli/Ela Ada A paste of rice flour, filled with a coconut and jaggery mixture, and steamed in turmeric/banana/jackfruit leaves.

Mysore Pak A crumbly, buttery sweet made with generous amounts of ghee, sugar, gram flour and sometimes cardamom.

Payasam A milk-based pudding, made with ghee using either rice or vermicelli, sweetened with jaggery and topped with nuts.

Bebinca This Goan treat is a seven (or more) layered pudding made with coconut milk, jaggery and ghee; each layer is baked individually.

Modak This steamed/fried dumpling contains an outer shell made with rice or wheat flour and filled with coconut and jaggery. Another version uses moulds and is made with khoya. Modak is commonly eaten during Ganesh Chaturthi.

Modak | STOCKIMAGEFACTORY.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Uniappam Sweet, round, fried fritters made with bananas, jaggery, coconut and some spices.

Holige Stuffed flatbreads made using wheat flour, with a stuffing of chana dal and jaggery.

Local Rice Dishes

Biryani A layered meat and rice dish; sometimes rice is replaced by tapioca.

Puliyogare This popular dish is made with tamarind extract and dry spices.

Bisibelebath A wholesome rice, lentils and vegetables dish.

Pongal A porridge made of rice and yellow lentils.

MEALS OF A LIFETIME

Paradise Hyderabad’s legendary biryani place serves one of the best biryanis in the city, and possibly India.

The Goan Kitchen A small venture, run out of a home, but with a state-of-the-art kitchen, offering meals that explore the depth and complexity of Goan food.

Bombay Canteen One of the country’s most celebrated restaurants does a delicious modern take on regional Indian food.

Paragon Restaurant This legendary restaurant in Kozhikode is known for its biryani and seafood dishes. Expect long queues.

Mavalli Tiffin Rooms A legendary place known for its comfort food, simple snacks and South Indian dishes.

THE YEAR IN FOOD

Summer

Summer is the season of abundance in fruit and vegetables. Expect mangoes, cashews, watermelons, chikoos, shellfish like mussels and oysters, and cooling vegetables like cucumber, pumpkins, and gourds.

PRIYA DWIVEDI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Monsoon

The rainy season sees a decrease in certain kinds of fish, which prompts many to use salted and dried fish in their meals. There’s an abundance of leafy greens like spinach and amaranth, and root vegetables like taro and air potatoes at this time. Fish to eat include salmon, whitefish, tuna, anchovies and crabs.

BISWAPHOTOGRAPHY93/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Winter

This is when cherries, pomegranates, raspberries and strawberries are in season, along with beans, carrots, turnips and radishes. In the fish market, look for snappers, black pomfret, croakers, eel, mackerel and sole fish.

KIRAN NAGARE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Best South India Dishes

XACUTI

A mildly spiced chicken curry made with coconut.

PANDI CURRY

A slow-roasted gravy made with wild boar or pork and kachampuli (vinegar).

PATHRADE/ALU WADI

A steamed snack of colocasia leaves made with rice flour or gram flour.

GHEE ROAST

A spicy and tangy chicken curry made with ghee.

TAMBDA RASSA

A fiery, soupy mutton curry.

VINDALOO

A hearty stew of pork, garlic and wine/vinegar.

VADA PAV

Pao containing a deep-fried potato fritter, chutney and a green chilli.

MISAL

A spicy sprout curry topped with farsan, and eaten with pao.

How to…  Explore South India's Indigenous Spirits

A good way to get initiated into a region’s culinary scene is by sampling its local liquor (usually classified under country liquor). Each place has its own spirit. Toddy, the fermented sap of the date, palmyra or coconut palm tree, is popular in Kerala, Karnataka, Andaman and Nicobar Islands, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh. Goa’s state spirit is feni, made by distilling coconut sap (coconut or palm feni) or the juice of the cashew apple (cashew feni). Mahua is the world’s only clear spirit distilled from a sweet flower, and is popular in the jungles of Maharashtra, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh.

Toddy shop, Thrissur | MANTO_KONIKKARA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Visit a Toddy Shop in Kerala

If in Kerala, visiting a toddy shop is a must. These are small establishments where people gather to eat local fare and drink the palm wine spirit, toddy, kallu or arrack. Go at lunchtime so you can order some of the spicy meat, fish and seafood dishes on offer. Use the toddy to cut through the spice.

Drink in a Taverna in Goa

For decades, Goans would sample feni at watering holes called tavernas, small, nondescript places serving local liquor. Some of these places still exist in the state. Go in summer when cashew is in season, and try urrak (the first distillate of the cashew apple), or coconut or cashew feni. You can also find other feni expressions – typically, botanicals and herbs infused in coconut feni.

Meet a Forest Flower

Mahua is one of the country’s oldest liquors. The name refers to the tree, its bloom and the spirit distilled from it. Mahua is a floral and heady spirit, and doesn’t give you a hangover. Making mahua liquor is an unregulated industry and the spirit is found in some tribal markets.

In Goa and Karnataka, you can buy licensed and bottled mahua, DJ Mahua. You can find mahua cocktails in some bars in Goa. Mond is another bottled mahua liquor, available in Madhya Pradesh. In Mumbai, you can also find Mohulo, a gin made with mahua flowers.

A WORD OF CAUTION

In India, mahua, feni and arrack are classified as a ‘country liquor’. This distinction was introduced in colonial times to separate these spirits from foreign liquor, and tax their usage. Further, it ended up marginalising these native brews.

International liquor became a statement of class, while local liquor was considered cheap and inferior. It's a perception that continues today.

Much of the liquor sold today is done so without a licence, and has the poss-ibility of being con-taminated. Many country spirits come from an unregulated industry and, in some places, are illegal. Ensure you buy liquor from a licensed shop.

THE OUTDOORS

South India’s wild landscapes burst with outdoor adventures, from hiking through lush mountains, to surfing or kayaking across the backwaters.

Divar, Goa | DILCHASPIYAAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Even just a glimpse of the mighty Western Ghats or the rolling tropical waves will have you planning outdoor thrills across the south. Hiking always opens up an off-the-beaten-track glimpse into quieter landscapes. Cycling is growing in popularity, with both long-distance routes and day tours widely available. Along the coast, the surf scene is blossoming, while other water-based adventures swing from kayaking to diving to boating. Whenever you go, don’t miss the chance to see emblematic wildlife in nature.

Trekking, Hiking & Walking

Heading out on a hike into the lush green hills of the Western Ghats is a highlight of South India. Tempting routes include summiting view-splayed peaks, walking past glistening tea plantations and traversing dense jungle forests. In general, the best months for hiking are during the November-to-March high season. That said, trekking and walking in some popular destinations have been restricted in recent years due to growing human–animal conflict, while other routes require pre-booked permits, so it’s best to check locally with experts.

Highlight walking areas include Karnataka’s Kodagu and Chikkamagaluru and Kerala’s Munnar, Periyar and Wayanad. Heading out with a trekking guide is a great to way to dive in, though there are good independent hikes too.

Wildlife-Spotting

Nothing beats the experience of glimpsing India’s iconic wild creatures in their natural habitat. South India’s Western Ghats are threaded with protected wildlife reserves, most of them open to visitors (usually with strict regulations). You’ll typically access them on jeep or minibus safaris, which in most cases require advance reservations (though some last-minute tickets may be available). Standout wildlife reserves include Mudumalai Tiger Reserve in Tamil Nadu; Periyar Tiger Reserve and Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary in Kerala; and Bandipur and Nagarhole Tiger Reserves in Karnataka.

Periyar also offers the opportunity to join small-group hikes through parts of its protected landscape, along with boating and rafting trips on which you’re likely to see wildlife. Nagarhole has excellent boat safaris on the Kabini River.

Water Sports

Surfing is soaring in popularity across South India, with surf schools offering classes, camps and board rental. Look for reputable schools that prioritise safety (such as Surfing Federation of India – SFI – which offers accreditation and a maximum number of students per instructor) and respect for the environment.

Top surfing hubs include Kovalam and Mahabalipuram in Tamil Nadu, the beaches around Puducherry, northern Goa, Varkala and Kovalam in southern Kerala, and north of Mangaluru on the Karnataka coast. Remote Little Andaman offers offbeat thrills for experienced surfers. Around October to April is generally the best season for learning to surf, while May to September brings the biggest swells for those with experience.

Kayaking and paddleboarding are big too, especially in Goa, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Kerala and the Andamans. This is also a wonderful way to experience Kerala’s beautiful backwaters. The isolated Andaman Islands have some off the finest diving in South Asia, particularly around Swaraj and Shaheed Islands.

Surf class, Goa | YURAKRASIL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

FAMILY ADVENTURES

Jump on a boat safari in Nagarhole or Periyar Tiger Reserves, for the chance to spot otters, birds and other creatures.

Hop aboard the famous Nilgiri Mountain Railway for a train–travel adventure into Tamil Nadu’s Western Ghats.

Embark on a jeep safari through a beloved southern tiger reserve like Mudumalai or Bandipur.

Relax on a family-friendly beach, such as Varkala in Kerala, Gokarna in Karnataka or Benaulim in Goa.

Paddle through Kerala’s palm-shaded backwaters on a low-key kayaking trip from Kochi or Alleppey.

Take younger travellers on a tour of historic Hyderabad, including sweet treats and science-museum surprises.

More Action Adventures

YOGA

Dive into a yoga retreat or training course at a respected centre; Mysuru is a major hub for ashtanga yoga.

BOULDERING

Make a beeline for India’s climbing epicentre Hampi, where enormous boulders tempt across a magical country landscape.

CYCLING

Pedal across southern Goa on a multiday bike trip, or join an expert-guided cycling tour in several southern cities.

PARAGLIDING

Soar high above the Kerala coastline on a paragliding adventure in Varkala, with palm-filled landscapes sprawling below.

BIRDWATCHING

Spot birds at a protected nature reserve, including Mudumalai Tiger Reserve and Thattekad Bird Sanctuary.

RAFTING

Savour the wild expanses of Kerala’s Periyar Tiger Reserve on a bamboo-rafting excursion across the park’s shimmering lake.

BOATING

Head out across Goan waters on a dolphin-spotting trip with a reputable operator or go sailing on the Mandovi River.

ACTION AREAS

Where to find South India & Kerala’s best outdoor activities.

SOUTH INDIA & KERALA

THE GUIDE

Chapters in this section are organised by hubs and their surrounding areas. We see the hub as your base in the destination, where you’ll find unique experiences, local insights, insider tips and expert recommendations. It’s also your gateway to the surrounding area, where you’ll see what and how much you can do from there.

Kerala backwaters | MARTIN HARVEY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Mumbai (Bombay)

INDIA’S VIBRANT CAPITAL OF COMMERCE

A global financial hub that 21 million call home, there’s never a dull moment in the maximum city, whether you’re here to eat, party or absorb the arts.

ANILD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

When meandering the bustling streets of Mumbai, it’s hard to believe that this sprawling city was once a cluster of marshy islands. The dazzling metropolis, a melting pot of multiculturalism, is a picture of ingenuity, testament to the human ability to build the impossible – a city of dreams, where people have been coming for over 350 years to make their fortunes. Mumbai has been the home of mercantile industry since the British East India Company (EIC) set up their trading post in a fortress in the bay in 1664. The EIC took over from the Portuguese (who’d named the islands Bom Bahia) following a dowry agreement between the British King Charles II and his Portuguese princess wife, Catherine of Braganza.

Little is recorded before the colonial interlopers arrived, but Koli people from the Konkan Coast had certainly been living in fishing villages on the islands, and indeed still live in Mumbai today. Once imperialism was in full swing, money started flooding in and imposing, grand architecture popped up. The seven islands are now connected by bridges, causeways and land reclamation projects that make today’s vast city. Even the Mahim Bay and Mithi River have been bridged with link roads and highways to incorporate the suburbs of the northwest into the ever-expanding megapolis.

High-rises dominate the skyline of almost every jut of peninsula, aside from the art deco marvels that line the iconic Marine Drive. Like in most global cities, there’s a seismic wedge between the rich and poor. Mumbai’s extremely wealthy citizens are high in number – there are more billionaires here than anywhere else in South Asia. The booming financial centre outgrew the downtown neighbourhood of Fort and has now shifted to the Bandra Kurla Complex (the BKC), where banks, condos, malls and high-end restaurants flourish, just across the highway from creative (but gentrified), buzzy Bandra West.

There’s a Mumbai for every traveller’s budget, every foodie’s palate and every culture aficionado’s interests, so be ready to accept that just one visit to the ‘Maximum City’ is never enough.

Marine Drive | PARALLLEL3/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE MAIN AREAS

COLABA

Southernmost neighbourhood with top sights.

FORT

Historically rich foodie haven.

MARINE DRIVE

The seaside soul of the city.

LOWER PAREL & MIDTOWN

Glitzy dining meets old industries.

THE WESTERN SUBURBS

From Bollywood to bijou ’hoods.

Find Your Way

Mighty Mumbai stretches from the old quarters of the city centre, Fort Colaba and Parel in the south, up the coast to the Western Suburbs in the north. Two useful MRT (local train) lines run the length of Mumbai – along the east and west side of town.

Plan Your Days

Mumbai is one of those cities that will always leave you wanting to return – you can’t possibly fit it all in on one visit and it’s usually quite hot, so less is more.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya | ROBERT HARDING VIDEO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Day 1

Morning

• Grab a dosa for breakfast at South Indian canteen Poornima in Fort, before diving into the incredible collection at one of Mumbai’s architectural masterpieces, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya museum.

Afternoon

• Grab lunch at charming Parsi cafe Jimmy Boy, then spend the afternoon in Colaba, touring the city’s iconic sights: the Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal Palace.

Evening

• That evening, pop up to Lower Parel to dine out on modern Indian fare at Bombay Canteen, followed by cocktails at PCO Cocktail Bar. Swing by hip Colaba SOCIAL for a nightcap.

Day 2

Morning

• Get up early and sail from Colaba’s Apollo Bandar harbour to UNESCO-listed Elephanta Island to check out the ancient cave temples, before returning in time for lunch at Leopold’s.

Afternoon

• Spend the afternoon in Colaba’s contemporary art galleries with a pit stop in the Cacao Mill by Subko for well-earned treats.

Evening

• In the evening head to Fort for exquisite seafood at Trishna, followed by a night of action in Bandra West, whether you’re up for a dance or hanging out with the locals at one of the self-proclaimed dive bars.

Day 3

Morning

• Spend the day in Bandra West, checking out cool galleries like Art and Charlie, as well as the vibrant murals by Bollywood Art Project.

Afternoon

• Swing by Veronica’s deli for a knockout sandwich. Hop on the MRT to Marine Lines and stroll along Marine Drive for a DIY tour of the incredible art deco architecture.

Evening

• Watch the sunset while enjoying street food snacks at Girgaon Chowpatty. If theatre or comedy are your jam, be sure to book in a show in the Western Suburbs, a hotbed for performing arts.

YOU’LL ALSO WANT TO...

If you’ve got a longer tenure in the city, whether for business or leisure, there are some quintessentially Mumbaikar experiences you should not miss.

CATCH A CRICKET MATCH

India’s premier sport, cricket, has a majestic home in Mumbai – Wankhede Stadium on Marine Drive. There’s nowhere better to watch a match.

GRAZE ON A FOOD TOUR

Nothing says Mumbai snacks more than a vada pav (a chickpea, potato and chilli patty). Taking a Fort food tour will make sure you sample the best.

TAKE IN DHOBI GHAT’S COLOURS

Mumbai’s largest laundry is an unfathomably huge outdoor complex, with linens of all colours and sizes drying in the wind.

HIKE THROUGH SANJAY GANDHI NATIONAL PARK

Traverse the trails and pathways of this sprawling, protected park. Spot monkeys, porcupines and maybe even a leopard or cheetah.

WATCH A BOLLYWOOD MOVIE

When in the home of Bollywood, watching one of these flicks in one of the art deco cinemas like Eros or the Regal is a must.

WANDER BANDRA AT CHRISTMAS

Christmas in Bandra West sees very impressive displays of lights, and pop-up cribs and nativity scenes appear along the streets.

EXPLORE KHOTACHIWADI

Wander the vibrant streets of this charming little village in the midst of downtown. Khotachiwadi is an exclave of peace in the metropolis.

Colaba

SOUTHERNMOST NEIGHBOURHOOD WITH TOP SIGHTS

From its marshy island origins where Koli fishermen from the Konkan trawled, to the site of the most famous and illustrious luxury hotel in India, Colaba saw rapid change in the course of 200 years. Before it was linked to the rest of the city by a causeway in 1838, the island was home to a portfolio of East India Company initiatives – from an asylum to military barracks – but it wasn’t until the construction of the Colaba Causeway that it became a residential area. By the 1870s building had boomed, with shops and restaurants lining the causeway where water used to lap, and housing blocks popping up for the well-to-do that would be hippie favourites a generation or two later. It was the arrival of the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel and the Gateway of India that really put the city’s southernmost neighbourhood on the map, both continuing to pull the crowds today.

Gateway of India | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GETTING AROUND

Depending on how well you handle a warm climate, Colaba is very easy to get around on foot. If sweating it out exhausts you, flag one of the mini taxis that dominate the roads of south Mumbai (autorickshaws are not allowed down here) or use apps like Ola or Uber to do the price negotiating for you. The small docks just above the Gateway of India’s northern flank are a launch point for ferries and speed-boats to Elephanta Island and Alibag.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Gateway of India

2   Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

SIGHTS

3   APRE Art House

4   Galerie Mirchandani + Steinruecke

5   Gallery Maskara

6   Project 88

7   Sakshi Gallery

SLEEPING

8   Abode

9   Backpacker Cowies

10   Bentley’s Hotel

11   Hotel Suba Palace

Taj Mahal Palace Hotel (see 2)

EATING

12   Cacao Mill by Subko

13   Delhi Darbar

14   Leopold’s

15   Olympia Coffee House

Table (see 11)

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

16   Cafe Mondegar

17   Colaba SOCIAL

Harbour Bar (see 2)

ENTERTAINMENT

18   Regal Cinema

TOP TIP

Use the busy Colaba Causeway as your main point of orientation. This former bridge is the artery of the neighbourhood, with alleys and lanes branching off on either side. Be careful while crossing it – drivers don’t stop for pedestrians unless the lights are red.

Taj Tales

Visiting India’s most famous hotel

Stunning Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is India’s second-most photographed monument after the actual Taj, which is hardly surprising – you don’t expect to be as dazzled but this architectural masterpiece really grips you. Its story is just as enthralling: established in 1903 by Parsi industrialist JN Tata after he was refused entry to nearby Brit-owned Watson’s Hotel, Tata built himself a better one. Once you’ve taken your snaps outside, enter through the highly guarded doors – whether you’re a staying guest or visitor – to enjoy the afternoon tea at in-house cafe Sea Lounge or a cocktail at Harbour Bar. It’s a treat worth indulging in. Security is rife lest we forget that dozens were killed inside the hotel when it was targeted during the tragic 2008 terrorist attacks. The restored hotel reopened on Independence Day 2010.

Art in the City

Cruise the contemporary art galleries

The redeveloped warehouses of Colaba are perfect for contemporary art, with world-class gallerists displaying everything from modernist-era paintings to contemporary sculpture and installations. Be sure to look up what’s on at Art Musings (artmusings.net) and Project 88 (project88.in), down near Sassoon Dock, and wander along 3rd Pasta Lane where APRE Art House (aprearthouse.com), Gallery Maskara (gallerymaskara.com) and Sakshi Gallery (sakshigallery.com) all host thought-provoking, experimental exhibitions that give you a full flavour of the powerhouse that is the Indian art scene.

POSTCARDS FROM QUEER COLABA

Contemporary poet Vikram Phukan staged an LGBTIQ+ walking-tour-meets-theatre-performance, ‘Postcards from Colaba’, telling of otherwise unwritten tales of queer Colaba throughout the ages. For decades, Colaba has (low-key) been the epicentre of a thriving gay scene, and Phukan’s show celebrated the neighbourhood’s legacy as a symbol of Mumbai’s subterranean indulgences, delivering real stories of chance encounters and testimonies.

An oral history with piles of wit, the show had three actors portraying the delightfully funny goings-on to small groups a few times a year. From misadventures to nocturnal shenanigans, the show wove an intimate tapestry of the city’s alternative history. Check Vikram Phukan’s Instagram (@vikithephu) for updates on his future work and performances.

COLABA’S INFAMOUS EATERIES

Olympia Coffee House: This cheap diner is an old-school gem that serves extremely meaty dishes such as mutton keema pav. 7am-11.50pm ₹

Delhi Darbar: A Colaba institution with queues at any time of day, this North Indian restaurant whips up an unmissable biryani. 11.30am-12.30am ₹₹

Leopold’s: The queue for a table (and average food) isn’t for everyone, but the retro interior remains iconic. 7.30am-midnight ₹₹

Table: This upmarket Italian presents small fine-dining plates in a classy interior with floor-length windows. noon-4pm & 7pm-12.30am ₹₹₹

The Mighty Sassoon Docks

Wander the city’s oldest fish market

Established in 1875 by one of the city’s philanthropist trader families, the Sassoons, Colaba’s incredibly atmospheric fishing docks are quite the assault on the senses. Visit the oldest and largest wholesale fish market in Mumbai to take in the scenes of intense and pungent activity, when colourfully clad Koli fisherfolk sort the catch, unloading fishing trawlers at the quay. It’s best to visit before 8am to see the Koli at work; they’re the city’s original inhabitants, predating the arrival of the Portuguese – so navigating the waters around the metropolis is in their blood.

Sassoon Docks | FILMLANDSCAPE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Colaba’s Neighbouring Ancient Temple

Sail to Elephanta Island

Hop on one of the small colourful ferries from the Gateway of India harbour to the huge, sublime rock-cut temples on Gharapuri, better known as Elephanta Island. Created between 450 and 750 CE, the labyrinth of cave temples is guaranteed to impress you. You’ll crick your neck taking in the ancient stone carvings, especially within the main Shiva temple, made up of courtyards, halls, pillars and shrines. It has a colossal centrepiece – a 6m-tall statue of Sadhashiva – depicting three-faced Shiva as the destroyer, creator and preserver of the universe. The Portuguese dubbed the island Elephanta because of a large stone elephant near the shore, which has since been moved. Don’t miss the small museum; it’s got handy pictorial panels on the origin of the caves.

COLABA’S LIFE AQUATIC

Prathamesh Khedwan, wildlife photographer. @sea_dweller

Colaba’s reefs are an amazing place for wildlife. I’ve been a photographer for 10 years and my main focus is marine conservation. I specialise in cityscapes with sea life in the foreground and skyline in the background.

To learn about wildlife, you have to start by observing their habitats, what they feed on and how they behave. I’ve clicked images of everything from sea slugs to bamboo sharks. I saw bamboo sharks during an intertidal walk on the Sassoon Docks side; at first I thought it was fish moving in the seagrass. Rock pools are a nursery for a lot of species; they can hide under the rocks and crevices when they’re juvenile.

WHERE TO DRINK IN COLABA

Colaba SOCIAL: This Social branch is starkly trendy. Its bar slings cocktails and pours draft beers ‘til the small hours. 9am-1.30am

Cafe Mondegar: This much-loved cafe with an old-school diner vibe is usually packed with tourists. Great ambience and menu. 8am-11.30pm

Cacao Mill by Subko: Go for a tour of this chocolate factory followed by a flavoursome hot chocolate or Subko’s freshly ground coffee. 9am-11pm

Harbour Bar: There is nowhere better to indulge in a cocktail or three than the Taj Hotel’s classy, sumptuous 1930s bar. noon-1am

TOP SIGHT

Gateway of India

At first sight, Mumbai’s top tourist attraction, the imposing and undeniably impressive Gateway of India, looks like a gaudy flex of colonial power. The huge arch was built by the British in 1924 to celebrate a royal visit 13 years earlier, but to most Mumbaikars it has come to mean so much more – a local icon and symbol of Independence.

SANJEEV MOHAPATRA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code to learn more about getting to the Gateway of India.

SECURITY

Both the gateway and the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel have been targets of terrorist attacks, most recently in 2008. Since then, a fence has been constructed around the gateway’s park and there’s one heavily guarded way in and way out.

An Awful Lot of History

The ornate and grandiose Gateway of India stands proudly on the waterfront of the Apollo Bunder, casting a vast shadow on Colaba. It is Mumbai’s most visited and stand-out landmark, with millions of visitors, both Indian and foreign, coming to take selfies in front of the huge basalt arch. Completed in 1924, it was built to commemorate the royal visit by King George V and Queen Mary, the then rulers of the British empire. Arch your neck and potentially squint at the inscription carved into the white marble at the top of the monument, which reads: ‘Erected to commemorate their Imperial Majesties King George V and Queen Mary’s landing in India on the Second of December MCMXI’.

George V was the first monarch to visit India, after centuries of imperial occupation, and he and his large royal party docked at this spot in 1911, en route to Delhi for his coronation as Emperor of India. A temporary arch, which looked similar to the current one, welcomed them in. They paraded through its largest, central entrance, before sitting in a small pavilion – on thrones of course – as the governors of Bombay welcomed them with great ceremony. The couple toured Bombay for a few days before setting off north to the capital city, New Delhi, seat of the British Raj.

Architecturally Speaking

Both the temporary 1911 structure and the yellow basalt arch we see today were designed by British architect George Wittet, who created a number of famous buildings in Mumbai in the pretty problematic Indo-Saracenic style. Why problematic? Across cities in India, British architects were aiming to legitimise their colonial rule by fusing traditional, recognisable Indian elements like onion domes and scalloped arches with imperial British features of Gothic and neoclassical architecture. It’s a visually clear message; we’ll use your heritage and mix it with ours, we’re in charge and here to stay – a demonstration of control through the buildings constructed.

The foundation stone was laid in 1913 and building began. Four turrets surround a central dome that is 15m in diameter and rises to 26m high, with two side chambers added to host civic receptions. It cost around ₹2.1 million to construct; an expense that was put on the Indian government.

Also troubling is the term ‘Indo-Saracenic’ itself; ‘Saracen’ implies Muslim, Arabic-speaking people – an outdated term used in Europe in the 19th century and a colonial generalisation.

The Last of the Brits

Despite this colonial past and oppressive origins, the gateway has come to be a symbol of Indian Independence for many Mumbaikars. The very last of the British soldiers to leave India following the country’s freedom in 1947 was the 1st Battalion, Somerset Light Infantry. They departed with much pomp, handing the Indian flag over to the local military and exchanging gifts before marching through the gateway in full regalia and sailing away on 28 February 1948. Over 100 years of resistance, much of which was homegrown in Mumbai, was a success. The Brits arrived via the city’s docks and they left the same way, centuries later.

STILL A PORT OF NOTE

The small peninsula of Apollo Bandar on which the gateway sits is still a bustling little maritime hub. The northern flank of waters is full of colourful fishing boats and mini-ferries that take visitors to Elephanta rock caves for ₹250 return. To the south of the gateway, you can engage speed-boats to whip you to Alibag from ₹1200, depending on your bargaining skills.

TOP TIPS

• The site is always busy, but Sundays and public holidays are particularly hectic. Avoid those days if you prefer a bit of space.

• The sun rises behind the Gateway from the sea, with a corridor of golden light streaming through its central arch. Depending on the time of year, this is usually around 7am and a popular time with photographers.

• To catch the sun setting behind the Taj Hotel and the land-facing side of the gate, arrive back by boat from your visit to Elephanta Caves or Alibag at approximately 5pm for the most amazing sunset hues framing the gateway.

WALKING COLABA’S STREETS

Start at 6am to check out Mumbai’s oldest industry at 1 Sassoon Docks that still buzz with activity – the Koli fisherfolk hard at work as the day dawns. Keep your eyes peeled for the large, vibrant murals around the dock warehouses, installed by St+art Foundation, India’s biggest site-specific arts organisation. As you exit back on to the Colaba Causeway, turn left and head down to the British-built 2 Afghan Church. The ornate space was created in remembrance of their military officers who died in the First Afghan War and the 1842 retreat from Kabul.

Head a few minutes back up the Causeway to the charming gallery space 3 Art Musings, tucked away in an alley, before checking out large warehouse art space 4 Project 88 with excellent contemporary art exhibits. A further walk north along the artery causeway takes you to the 5 Cacao Mill by Subko for an extremely lavish brunch of pastries and top freshly ground coffee. Once refreshed, potter along 6 3rd Pasta Lane where contemporary galleries APRE Art House, Gallery Maskara and Sakshi Gallery show top local talent.

A pit stop at 7 Leopold’s further up the Causeway is a must, for novelty’s sake or a snack, before heading to the 8 Gateway of India in time for sunset. As dusk settles in, treat yourself to a cocktail at 9 Harbour Bar in the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. End your day with a flick at the art deco marvel 10 Regal Cinema or a few beers and rotis at much-loved local institution, 11 Cafe Mondegar.

Fort

HISTORICALLY RICH FOODIE HAVEN

South Mumbai’s oldest and arguably most vibrant neighbourhood, Fort will welcome you with open arms on your first (and second and third) visits to the city. Overbearing, ornate British-era architecture lines the streets of what was the beating heart of this mercantile hub. On arriving in 1668, the East India Company set up shop and traded cotton, opium and just about anything else they could get their hands on, from their Bombay fortress. The church (St Thomas’ Cathedral) and town hall (the Asiatic Society) built around their main marketplace Bombay Green (Horniman Circle) still stand but the financial capital has moved north. Yet Fort is still buzzing with activity; steeped in history for those who take the time to look for it, saturated with delectable food culture, and home to an art scene and nightlife spots waiting to be discovered.

GETTING AROUND

MRT (Mumbai Rapid Transit) is currently building the city’s first underground metro, Line 3, which has some main thoroughfares and roads in Fort blocked off for construction at the time of writing. The handy line, which will whizz up to Bandra, is due to be completed in 2025, which will make the north–south Mumbai links quicker and easier. In the meantime, the endearingly shonky little black taxis serve south Mumbai and can be hailed in person or via apps like Ola and Uber.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya

2   Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogu

SIGHTS

3   Asiatic Society

4   Chemould Prescott Road

5   Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus

6   David Sassoon Library and Reading Room

7   Elphinstone College

8   Galerie Isa

9   Horniman Circle

10   Jehangir Art Gallery

11   JN Petit Library

12   Kala Ghoda statue

13   Method Kala Ghoda

14   Mumbai University

15   National Gallery of Modern Art

16   St Thomas’ Cathedral

17   TARQ

SLEEPING

18   Grand Hotel

19   Residency Hotel Fort

EATING

20   ANNA Idli

21   Britannia & Co

22   Cafe Excelsior

23   Copper Chimney

24   Faredoon’s

25   Jimmy Boy

26   Knead

27   Malido Cafe

28   Poornima

29   Trishna

30   Yazdani Bakery

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

31   Cafe Universal

32   HYDE

Khala Ghoda Cafe (see 27)

33   Raju Ki Chai

TOP TIP

Fort is a small and densely packed area with lots of shade from leafy trees, so is easy to take on by foot. It’s full of architecture and food stalls you’ll want to check out and not whizz by in a car or cab.

Fort’s Impressive Architecture

Take in the Bombay Gothic

Turning every corner in Fort presents you with another dazzling work of neo-gothic architecture; huge, ornate civic buildings that display the wealth and power of the city throughout the 1800s and 1900s. While it all may seem very British at first glance, the majority of these stunning leviathans were funded by prosperous Indian traders like Jamshetji Jejeebhoy, David Sassoon and Jamsetji Tata, who shaped the face of the city through their philanthropy and business savvy. You’ll certainly be forgiven for saying these buildings look like their London contemporaries, but squint and step closer to spot the distinctly Indian features of Bombay Gothic that decorate the arches and towers. From intricate floral latticework to structural features like open verandahs that allow wafts of sea air to ventilate the spaces, the designs were drawn up with their location in mind. The most famous is the magnificent Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, India’s first train station. The buttresses, turrets, spires and stained-glass windows are absolutely worth taking a tour of (offered by Raconteur Tours, mumbaiwalkingtours.com). Also don’t miss Mumbai University, designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott (of St Pancras Station fame) and dotted with Indian iconography. The pointed arches, animal-lined columns and trusses of the David Sassoon Library and Reading Room, and its recently refurbished neighbour Elphinstone College are a Gothic duo not to be missed.

Understanding Mumbai Through its Food

Eat your way around Fort

No corner of Mumbai is richer in top-quality, diverse cuisine than Fort, the place to go and eat your way through the city’s culinary history. Waves of communities arrived here from across India since its colonial-era inception in the 17th century, a city of opportunity then as it is now. With a few clues – or a food tour from the likes of India Someday (indiasomeday.com) or Mumbai Magic (mumbaimagic.com) – you can trace the legacy of the people who built the city, by eating your way around town.

Start in the Parsi cafes or the iconic Yazdani Bakery to smash one of their delicious sweet fluffy bun maska, which they’ve been making on-site since the 1950s. The Parsi community, originating from Persia, were recruited by the East India Company to work top positions across Mumbai from the 18th century. Soon after, Chinese workers came to Mumbai seasonally, working in the opium trade and the early cotton markets. While the Chinese community in Mumbai is very small, their legacy remains. Ask to try some extremely spicy Szechuan sauce when ordering noodles; it was invented by Chinese chefs for spice-loving Indians.

By the early 1900s, the city’s cotton mills were booming and South Indian labourers gravitated to the growing metropolis. The city now has some of the best South Indian canteens outside of Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Head to humble canteen Poornima for an unmissable, flavour-packed thali at lunchtime, or get to ANNA Idli for impeccable dosa any time of the day. The 1950s saw controversial political party Shiv Sena invent the distinctly Mumbai snack the vada pav – a chickpea, potato and chilli patty that’s deep fried and handed to you in a bun with chutney. It’s a somewhat ironic emblem of the city, as the ingredients were introduced by the Portuguese. Shiv Sena also got Bombay renamed after Mum ba devi, the goddess worshipped by the local Koli community.

Yazdani Bakery | ANILD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Unmissable Museums

Explore some of the best in the country

If you’re choosing just one museum, don’t miss the sprawling Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, Mumbai’s largest museum. Marvel over the wide collection, from large sculptures to tiny snuff bottles. The museum has recently started hosting international touring exhibitions such as 2024’s ‘Ancient Sculptures’ show that brought Greek and Roman artefacts to India for the first time, demonstrating the links between India and Europe that go back millennia.

Other great museums in the area include the sweeping modernist Jehangir Art Gallery, where you can pop in to see one of the free art shows across the many floors and wings; or cross the road to the monumental National Gallery of Modern Art to admire 20th-century work from across the nation.

JEWISH MUMBAI

Mumbai owes a lot to a family of Baghdadi Jews, the Sassoons, whose legacy is embedded in the fabric of the city. David Sassoon arrived from Iraq in the 1830s and quickly became the leader of the Jewish community, providing funding for a host of civic buildings. In the 1800s, his family built the David Sassoon Library and Reading Room; the unmistakable turquoise Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue in Fort and the Sassoon Docks.

Tragically, Jewish community centre Nariman House was one of the eight sites of the Mumbai terrorist attacks of 26 November 2008, during which Rabbi Gavriel Holtzberg and his wife were killed. Many Jewish people have since left the city.

BEST RESTAURANTS IN FORT

Britannia & Co: Of all the Parsi/Irani cafes, this has the edge; the veg cutlets, dhansak and berry pulao are a knockout. 11.30am-4pm, closed Sun ₹

Knead: The fare at this Middle Eastern cafe is delicious; the best shakshuka in town, not to mention cakes. 10am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun ₹₹

Trishna: Delightfully retro fish restaurant with kindly staff that serve the best crab, prawns and lobster in town. noon-3.30pm & 6pm-midnight ₹₹

Copper Chimney: This upmarket North Indian chain boasts impeccable flavours, service and design. noon-5pm & 7-11.30pm ₹₹₹

Fort’s Libraries

Not just for reading

The Asiatic Society is public access; anyone is welcome to walk between its colossal Doric columns and sit, read or work there. It houses over 3000 rare books including a 15th-century copy of Dante’s Divine Comedy. The society also hosts history-focused talks (@asiaticsocietymumbai).

The ornate David Sassoon Library and Reading Room is open for Indian citizens but foreigners can stop by to check out exhibitions of the manuscripts and maps, displayed in the entrance corridor. Slightly more accessible, the JN Petit Library grants all India residents entry to the library, so students or those on a work visa can also use the vaulted Victorian space.

STREET FOOD THE RIGHT WAY

Harsh Sonewala, co-founder of India Someday. @indiasomeday

You’ll find the best street food in Mumbai in Fort. And also the cheapest because it’s an old-school place. From market traders to lawyers and students from Mumbai University, Fort gets a lot of people coming to eat. You can get vada pav, dosa or Indian sandwich with spicy chutney – it’s toasted hot. To be safe with street food, don’t have anything that’s cold. Vada pav is unlikely to make you ill because it’s freshly made and cooked on a tawa (hotplate). There are also really nice rice plates. There’s so much to choose from, and most of it is vegetarian. We recommend people have street food in Fort as it’s made fresh, right in front of you.

WHERE TO DRINK IN FORT

Raju Ki Chai: The best masala chai in Fort, served in clay cups. Perch on a bench outside and watch the world go by. 8am-1.30am

Cafe Universal: Pop in for a coffee or beer, and snack on the Parsi menu at this veteran spot with vintage decor. 10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Sat, from 4pm Sun

HYDE: The graffitied door doesn’t prepare you for the cool interiors here. Karaoke is commonplace and live music regular. 6pm-1.30am Tue-Sun

Khala Ghoda Cafe: Expect a queue at this haunt with an extensive wine list, cocktails, and cheese and charcuterie boards. 8am-midnight

Fairly Arty

Dive into Fort’s top art fairs

Visiting in January? See Fort buzz as contemporary art dominates the social agenda with a palpable atmosphere of excitement between its local galleries and nationwide punters. Mid-month, make a beeline for the annual Mumbai Art Weekend (mumbaigalleryweekend.com) as cutting-edge galleries in Fort host shows, talks and walks. Still around two weeks later? Check out Kala Ghoda Arts Festival (kalaghodaassociation.com), when Fort sees huge tents pop up and crowds of art lovers pour into the fair that takes place every year for a week at the end of January.

Parsi Flavours

Dig in to the Mumbai cuisine

No trip to Mumbai is complete without trying Parsi cuisine and no other neighbourhood has such a high density or rich legacy of Parsi cafes as Fort does. Slightly dilapidated but chock full of character, the Yazdani Bakery has been selling the city’s most popular bread, kneading the dough with khamir yeast since the 1950s. Sadly, it’s no longer a sit-in restaurant since the owner died in 2020 but his family have kept the bread ovens fired for take-away parcels. Their delightfully sweet and ever so fluffy bread roll bun maska is unmissable; dunk it in a chai for the full-flavoured experience.

On the other side of Horniman Circle, chefs at Jimmy Boy have been serving Parsi favourites since 1925. The retro diner’s high ceilings and slowly lapping ceiling fans make it the perfect place to stop and savour a keema pao (slow-cooked mutton mince with spices) or delectable desserts like lagan nu custard or mava cake, washed down with a bottle of iconic Pallonji’s raspberry soda.

Probably the most famous Parsi spot in town, Britannia & Co has the edge; credited with the invention of berry pulao (rice cooked in a sweet berry stock), which you must order here, and if you’re a meat lover their dhansak (curry dishes) are a knockout. For ambience, swing by the inviting art nouveau Cafe Universal, which has been inviting diners in for over 100 years, and is another favourite for dhansak and keema pav (spiced lamb mince with a soft white roll). For a cheap no-frills pit stop, try Cafe Excelsior, cooking up big flavours since 1919; their patra ni macchi (steamed fish wrapped in banana leaf), mutton cutlets and keema salli (minced lamb) all await you. It’s not all old-school cafes, though. Malido Cafe is bringing up the helm; a chic, classy spot with pastel interiors who serve tidy veg cutlets. And newly opened modern bakers Faredoon’s are selling oven-fresh favourites like butter chicken bun, chutney pao and of course bun maska in their crisp new location.

FORT’S TOP CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERIES

Chemould Prescott Road: A long- established gallery in a Victorian-era block maintains their edge, showing mixed media works by Indian and international artists.

Galerie Isa: This large space is tucked away on the Ballard Estate, showing work by both local and international artists represented.

Galerie Mirchandani + Steinruecke: Home to top shows as well as thought-provoking talks and events, this gallery is flooded with light from ceiling to floor.

Method Kala Ghoda: Large, moving installations are the order of the day at this space, spread across two floors in art hub central, Kala Ghoda.

TARQ: A more intimate gallery, this one-room space gives solo shows to local talent, an incubator for younger artists.

FORT ON FOOT

Start at the 1 National Gallery of Modern Art, designed by architect George Wittet (of Gateway of India fame) in 1911 and paid for by philanthropist Sir Cowasji Jehangir. If you’re an art fan, pop into the three-floor space with winding staircases, or cross the street to 2 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, Mumbai’s biggest history museum, also designed by Wittet. The huge institution houses artefacts from across the Indian subcontinent and is the premier museum in town. Next door is the modernist marvel 3 Jehangir Art Gallery, free to enter. Over the road, the gothic duo 4 Elphinstone College and 5 David Sassoon Library and Reading Room sit side by side, best viewed from afar to take in their splendour. Carry on up the road and turn right to the 6 Kala Ghoda statue of the horse that gives this block its name. This is the site of the art fair in January. Carry on to the turquoise 7 Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue, the second-oldest Sephardic Jewish site of worship in Mumbai. Tourists are welcome to enter except on the Sabbath. Turn left up Mumbai Samachar Marg past the majestic law courts to 8 St Thomas’ Cathedral, built in 1718. Rudyard Kipling was baptised here; pop in to read the questionable war memorials for the British East India Company (EIC) soldiers who died in local battles. Cross 9 Horniman Circle to the EIC’s old town hall, now a library, the 10 Asiatic Society, for a read and rest.

If you’ve still got it in you, walk up Perin Nariman St to India’s first station, 11 Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, the most impressive building in south Mumbai. No one would blame you for hopping in a cab there.

Marine Drive

THE SEASIDE SOUL OF THE CITY

An open-air gallery of Indian design and Mumbai ambition, Marine Drive is so much more than a coastal road. It is part of the image and consciousness of the city – an open place where all Mumbaikars (and visitors) are equal, walking its length and admiring the sunset as one. It’s always one of the first things you’ll see in any movie set in Mumbai. The 3km-long promenade that elegantly arcs along the Arabian seafront is actually called Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Rd, but you’ll never hear it referred to that way. It’s downtown’s newer neighbourhood, the product of the Back Bay land reclamation scheme of the 1920s. It was built by local architects and developers, who showcased the first art deco buildings in India. It has since been UNESCO-awarded thanks to years of campaigning by its local residents, who fought to save the stretch for future generations.

Marine Drive | LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GETTING AROUND

The local MRT train service starts at Churchgate station (a block east of the southern end of the promenade) and that western rail line runs parallel with the seafront. Handy Marine Lines and Charni Rd stations serve the stretch before the track swerves north to Grant Rd. At ₹10 a ride, this is the cheapest way to get downtown or up to the Western Suburbs. If using a local taxi, ask for the meter to be switched on or, if you’re less confident, use the Ola or Uber apps to sort out the price for you.

SIGHTS

1   Mani Bhavan

2   Soona Mahal

SLEEPING

3   Hotel Bentley

4   InterContinental

5   Oberoi, Mumbai

6   Sea Green Hotel

EATING

7   Foo Town

8   Kyai & Co

Pizza by the Bay (see 2)

Ziya Restaurant (see 5)

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

9   Beer Café

10   B-Lounge

11   Mish Cafe

12   Mockingbird Cafe Bar

ENTERTAINMENT

13   National Centre for the Performing Arts

14   Royal Opera House

TOP TIP

Girgaon Chowpatty, at the northernmost end of Marine Drive, is a great place for street food, from corn on the cob to bhelpuri (puffed rice with dough, lentils, onions and chutneys).

Bombay Deco

Where style and form meet

Mumbai has more art deco architecture than anywhere else in the world. Local cataloguers have recently documented 1110 buildings across the city, surpassing Miami. Head to Marine Drive to see where it all started in the 1930s. The then freshly reclaimed stretch of land wafted fresh air and fresh development opportunities. As you amble along the 3km stretch, you’ll notice that the gorgeous little apartment blocks are spaced equally and uniform in height, quite unusual for Mumbai. This is thanks to the local government being particularly health conscious at the time. Following a recent plague, buildings with space and fresh air were mandatory – you can thank those local bureaucrats for its wonderful skyline today. Get chatting to any locals and you’ll soon learn just how much Mumbai’s art deco means to its citizens. It was the first Indian-led architectural movement – most of the designers, funders and owners of the buildings were Indian. Sumptuous buildings sprang up throughout the 1930s and ’40s, in tandem with the brewing Independence movement and growing local identity. Look for the references to the sea and nautical imagery: the Soona Mahal (above Pizza by the Bay) is a great example. Its stepped profile gives depth and dynamism, with streamlining that makes the block look like an ocean liner. Art Deco Mumbai (artdecomumbai.com) runs walking tours.

Gandhi’s Mumbai House

Visit Gandhi’s Mumbai home and headquarters

The Mani Bhavan Gandhi Sangrahalaya, a beautiful wooden house just north of Marine Drive, was Gandhi’s home and headquarters in Mumbai (then Bombay) from 1917 to 1934. He held meetings with people from all walks of life here, from Congress leaders to mill workers. Gandhi chose Bombay as the base for his political action rather than New Delhi (the recently anointed capital city) as he could interact with a wide range of communities living and working in the commerce hub. He launched some of his biggest protest movements from this house, which you can visit between 11am and 5pm every day. The museum includes a library as well as Gandhi’s personal things, such as his cotton spinning wheel. Classes in this skill are held weekly.

ART DECO TRAVELS

Atul Kumar, founder trustee of Art Deco Mumbai Trust. @artdecomumbai

Art deco has the ability to adapt to local influence; what you see in Shanghai is different from what’s in New York. But there is a common thread that runs across what we call Tropical Deco. So Miami and Bombay have many similarities – ground plus three floors, a lot of east–west ventilation, and balconies and cantilever awnings providing open-air shade. In India the bas-reliefs incorporate religious symbols or images of Indian people working the fields, which was very popular because it represented India’s agrarian economy at the time, everything was about farming. There are also waves from our coastline, local birds and nature. You won’t see this in any other art deco capital in the world; not Cuba, not Cairo.

TOP EATS NEAR MARINE DRIVE

Pizza by the Bay: Thin, crispy pizzas are the main draw, but this airy art deco diner has more, from soups and salads to waffles. 7am-12.30am ₹₹

Foo Town: An ode to the rich heritage of Chinese cuisine in the area, with classy tasting plates and hearty meals. noon-1.30am ₹₹₹

Kyani & Co: Come for the impeccable baked goods at this heritage Parsi cafe and stay for the very cosy and retro vibes. 7am-7pm ₹

Ziya: Two-Michelin-star chef Vineet Bhatia serves an Indian fusion tasting menu at this opulent restaurant in the Oberoi. 12.30-3pm & 7-11pm ₹₹₹

Putting on a Show

Top-tier theatre off Marine Drive

Mumbai locals are proud of their theatre scene, which comes in two halves: the smaller stages and edgy black boxes up in the Western Suburbs and the two larger, revered spaces that sit at either end of Marine Drive. You can book a show at mega institution the National Centre for the Performing Arts, opened in 1969. It promises the crème de la crème of the city’s performing arts. Likewise, at the north end near Girgaon Chowpatty, the Royal Opera House, India’s only surviving opera house, stages both opera and theatre – expect to be wowed by the building’s fine interiors as much as the show.

Royal Opera House | ANILD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KHOTACHIWADI: THE URBAN OASIS

You wouldn’t expect a colourful, charming little village in the midst of heavily developed downtown Mumbai, but it’s home to Khotachiwadi, an exclave of peace in the metropolis. The lanes with wooden front porches, hand-painted gates, external staircases and protruding balconies are a wonderful kaleidoscope of Portuguese-Konkan architecture, developed over 100 years ago when the area was still a suburb. Just 28 of the original 65 homes survive today, and the ancestors of the East Indian Christians who were granted this wadi (hamlet) fight to keep it intact in the face of every looming high-rise managing to secure Grade III listing. Tours are run by resident historian André Baptista; check his socials for updates (instagram.com/andre.baptista23).

WHERE TO DRINK NEAR MARINE DRIVE

Beer Café: A range of beer from local favourites is on tap, with Austrian, Belgian, German and Japanese beers by the bottle. 11am-midnight

B-Lounge: A chic cocktail bar near Grant Rd that serves a solid menu of snacks before the dance floor gets going. 8pm-3am Wed, Fri & Sat

Mish Cafe: A cute cafe with a vibrant menu, just by Charni Rd station. Grab a coffee (with or without alcohol). noon-11.30pm Mon-Sat, from 5pm Sun

Mockingbird Cafe Bar: Stalwart cafe with an Asian fusion menu (including delicious bao) to go with your coffee or cocktails. 9am-11.30pm

Lower Parel & Midtown

GLITZY DINING MEETS OLD INDUSTRIES

It’s hard to believe that ever so bijou Lower Parel was once the beating heart of the city’s industrial world. Just 100 years ago, the fancy restaurants and bars were unimaginable. Over 130 cotton mills employed millions of Bombay’s workforce, creating fortunes as the cogs churned. But as mill after mill closed down, regeneration of the area inevitably followed.

One of the seven islands of Bombay, Parel has a long history, with Hindu temples recorded as far back as the 12th century. You’ll be hard pressed to spot any of that now, with only traces of the mills around if you seek them out. Byculla to Parel’s south still retains its working-class vibes, with Mumbai’s laundry swirling away near some of the city’s busiest mosques and synagogues. Dadar, to its north, is home to the busiest train station in the area and neighbours the country’s largest slum, Dharavi.

GETTING AROUND

Both eastern and western local MRT train lines whizz through Mumbai’s midtown. Byculla is served by the eastern line starting at CSMT, which then heads up to Parel Loco Workshop and Dadar. The western line from Churchgate stops at Marine Lines and Grant Rd before reaching Lower Parel and Dadar, and onwards up to Bandra and Khar. It’s the cheapest and traffic-free way to get around.

Taxis (hailed using the Ola or Uber apps) are affordable, but prone to sitting in gridlocked traffic during rush hour.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum

SIGHTS

2   Haji Ali Dargah

3   India United Mills no. 1

4   Magen David Synagogue

5   Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat

6   Museum of Solutions (MuSo)

SLEEPING

7   Bloom Hotel – Worli

8   Four Seasons Hotel

9   ITC Grand Chola

10   St Regis Mumbai

EATING

11   Bombay Canteen

Hornby’s Pavilion (see 9)

12   Masque

13   Townhall Restaurant

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

14   Anti SOCIAL

15   CIRQA

16   PCO Cocktail Bar

17   Toit Mumbai

SHOPPING

18   High Street Phoenix

TOP TIP

For any of Lower Parel’s impressive restaurants, make reservations a couple of weeks (at least) earlier. If you’re here last minute, a few, like Bombay Canteen, are happy to sit you at the bar for dinner, if you get there early enough.

The Rebirth of Lower Parel

Regeneration, Mumbai style

As you’d expect from India’s commerce capital, Mumbai has a rich industrial history, which you can still see the evidence of in Lower Parel. Local entrepreneurs founded the first Indian cotton mill in 1854. Within 10 years the city’s mills were vital to its economy, particularly during the British colonial period, making Mumbai very wealthy indeed. By the 1980s these mills ceased to be profitable and fell into a state of disrepair, but you can still spot their remains as you visit the cafes, bars and malls of Lower Parel.

India United Mills no. 1 still stands – a beautiful but slightly eerie ghost of the past. Walking by its locked gates, you still get a good sense of the scale of the place from the outside. When you imagine that this was just one of 130 mills in the area, you can practically hear the factory cogs churning among the traffic. If you’re popping by Phoenix Mall, check out the McDonald’s at High Street Phoenix. This branch is built inside mills from 1905, with the chimney still in situ.

Regeneration of Parel started in earnest in the 1990s, with high-rises taking over. It’s now a very expensive postcode and home to excellent bars and restaurants, like Bombay Canteen and CIRQA, developed within the red-brick mill spaces.

WHERE TO EAT IN LOWER PAREL

Bombay Canteen: The trendiest restaurant in town; a modern, crisp twist on South Asian fusion. hours vary ₹₹₹

Hornby’s Pavilion: Smart, retro interiors are matched by the elegantly presented and fully flavoursome, traditional North Indian menu. hours vary ₹₹

Masque: Mumbai’s finest dining; tasting menu plates are worth every penny. Reserve well in advance. 7–11.30pm Tue-Sun plus 12.30-3.30pm Sun ₹₹₹

Townhall Restaurant: Chef Augusto Cabrera serves up innovative Japanese – including mind-blowing sushi – in a grand building. noon-1am ₹₹₹

Haji Ali Dargah

Visiting one of Mumbai’s holiest shrines

Floating like a mirage off Mumbai’s coast, this tiny island shrine, located on an offshore inlet, is a striking sight, more often than not glistening in the light that bounces off the bay’s waters. Built in the 19th century, it contains the tomb of the Muslim saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari. Legend has it that Haji Ali died while on a pilgrimage to Mecca and his casket miraculously floated back to this spot. The design of this monument is Indo-Islamic and Mughal, but what makes this grand monument stand apart is the beautiful kaleidoscopic patterns, mirrored tiles and ornate marble pillars throughout the building.

People of all faiths are welcome here. Thousands of pilgrims from all over the world visit this dargah (tomb) and masjid (mosque), especially on Thursday and Friday when there’s usually qawwali – devotional singing. A carefully cordoned lane guides you to this floating mosque that can only be reached during low tide (check tide timings locally). Pilgrims donate generously to the needy lining the way. After passing through the entrance, you will enter the marble courtyard, the central holy place.

Haji Ali Dargah has separate praying rooms for men and women. Men enter through the southern entrance, while women need to loop to the western side to enter for their hall inside the mosque.

ARE SLUM TOURS ETHICAL?

Dharavi Slum is India’s largest and home to one million residents. It was first settled in 1884 when the Brits kicked factory workers out of downtown Bombay. For generations tourists have stopped by Dharavi to see how Mumbai’s vast fleet of workers live, and in some cases to offer donations and support.

But are slum tours ethical? They can be misguided and have adverse effects, perpetuating colonial power structures, while assuming slum dwellers need help. As an economic centre that turns over a billion dollars a year, Dharavi residents are, and always have been, self-sufficient. If you do opt to visit, award-winning Reality Tours & Travel (realitytoursandtravel.com) runs the fairest tour in town, focusing on the industries and businesses run within Dharavi.

WHERE TO DRINK IN LOWER PAREL

Anti SOCIAL: Known for its infallible live music scene, this is the grungy spot to watch DJs and live shows of all genres. 11am-1.30am

CIRQA: Classy cocktail bar in a huge warehouse space – exposed iron, high ceilings and red brick giving it 19th-century realness. hours vary

PCO Cocktail Bar: Ask the staff at Ping’s Café Orient to let you into this bar with cocktails inspired by the fabrics made at the old mills. 5pm-1.30am

Toit Mumbai: Microbrewery chain with excellent beer-tasting offers, if you can’t decide. noon-1am Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1am Sat & Sun

MIDTOWN BY TAXI

Walking around Byculla, Mahalaxmi, Haji Ali and Parel is hectic; there’s lots to see but the sights are spread out and often separated by main artery roads. Hopping in taxis (or employing a driver for the afternoon) is best.

Start in Byculla at the 1 Magen David Synagogue, in a back alley away from the busy road. The turquoise neoclassical beauty was built in 1864 for the Jewish community of Mumbai. The interiors are resplendent and visits allowed, but not on the Sabbath (Saturday) or during private events, so call ahead. Photography costs ₹500. Hop back in your cab up the Eastern Expwy to 2 Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum. This gorgeous museum, built in Renaissance-revival style in 1872, contains more than 3500 objects centring on Mumbai’s history – photography, maps, textiles, books, manuscripts and more. During research, the building was undergoing restoration but was due to reopen in 2025 – check beforehand.

Take a taxi five minutes across town to 3 Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat. The 140-year-old dhobi ghat is Mumbai’s biggest human-powered washing machine. The best view is from the bridge across the railway tracks near Mahalaxmi train station. After, head west to 4 Haji Ali Dargah, but remember to visit this incredible shrine at low tide – check tide times locally. Thursdays and Fridays are particularly busy but pilgrims flock here every day. Families will want to head up to the brilliant 5 Museum of Solutions (MuSo) – designed for children – with excellent interactive exhibitions. If you haven’t got kids in tow, ask your taxi to head straight to 6 PCO in Lower Parel for a well-earned cocktail or mocktail to round up your afternoon.

The Western Suburbs

FROM BOLLYWOOD TO BIJOU ’HOODS

From humble fishing village origins to boasting the most sought-after addresses in the city, the Western Suburbs have come a long way in the past century. Hip nightlife hub Bandra West, financial district the Bandra-Kurla Complex, leafy laid-back Khar West, posh Pali Hill, bijou seaside spot Juhu and bohemian haunt Andheri West have enough cultural and gastro spaces between them to keep you entertained for weeks. Indeed the residents of the ‘west’ of the city (it’s actually north of the older quarters downtown) rarely leave their half of Mumbai and have little need to, unless a daily commute calls. With visible Portuguese roots, the area was incorporated into Bombay in 1950, and is now connected to the city below by the Bandra-Worli Sea Link. Reams of charming architecture are clawing for survival between the fancy condos that have been springing up in recent decades.

GETTING AROUND

Once off the train in Bandra, Bandra Junction, Khar Rd or Andheri, it’s time to catch autos. They’re not allowed south of Bandra but dominate the Western Suburbs’ roads. They are a quick way to get around – drivers have the uncanny ability to squeeze through the smallest gaps in the Mumbai traffic. You can hail an auto (or a regular taxi) using the Ola or Uber apps. If you flag one, be sure to ask the driver to switch the meter on before you hop in.

SIGHTS

1   Art and Charlie

2   Bombay Art Society

3   Fluxus Chapel

4   Method

SLEEPING

5   Bloom Boutique Bandra

6   Le Sutra

7   Locomo Express

Namastey Mumbai Backpackers (see 1)

8   Taj Lands End

EATING

9   A1 Bakery

10   Bawri

11   Brooke Bond Taj Mahal Tea House

12   Earth Cafe

13   Greenr Cafe

14   J Hearsch & Co

15   Jade & Ginger

16   Kenkō

17   Magnolia Bakery

18   Nest Bandra

19   Perch Wine & Coffee Bar

20   Sheetal Bukhara

21   Steps Café

22   True Fit Gourmet

23   Veronica’s

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

24   Bonobo

25   Daily

26   Doolally Taproom - Khar West

27   HAPI Beer Co

Janta Bar (see 1)

Toto’s Garage (see 1)

28   YACHT Resto Bar

ENTERTAINMENT

29   Prithvi Theatre

TOP TIP

Bandra buzzes throughout the Christmas period, with the Catholic community decorating houses, shops and streets with nativity scenes, flashing lights and star-topped trees. There’s carol singing, a bazaar and community arts – check @thestepsbandra for details.

India’s Best Cafe Scene?

Tea, coffee and sweet treats

As fancy condos multiply, cafe culture has boomed in Bandra West, with some of the best in the country. What makes the cafe scene so great in this neighbourhood? Aside from the sheer quantity, it’s the diversity of what’s on offer, the quality of the food, coffee and tea, and the interior design – ranging from colourful and eye-catching to serene, retreat-like spaces.

Veggie favourite Greenr cafe is flooded with light from their floor-to-ceiling window. Brooke Bond Taj Mahal Tea House is an elegant, colourful place with more on the tea menu than you could possibly imagine. Steps Café sits on St Stephen’s steps and boasts sleek design with a top coffee menu, a great spot to perch at a window seat. Trendy outfit Veronica’s (by the team behind Bombay Canteen) gets the NYC deli vibe spot-on, serving delicious bagels and sandwiches in their funky haunt. Newly opened the Nest Bandra gives Moroccan oasis vibes with the best salted caramel latte and sourdough toasties in town. Longstanding Earth Cafe sells delicious smoothie bowls for brunch, while conscious eatery Kenkō serves extremely nutritious fare including quinoa and nachni (finger food). True Fit Gourmet is another fine, health-conscious nook with raw food and gluten-free options. Jade & Ginger is the new Asian fusion Deli to check out – don’t miss the bao buns.

Brewing Up a Storm

Craft beer is booming

The neighbourhoods of the Western Suburbs have quite the craft beer scene. Stop by HAPI Beer Co in Bandra West for a top tasting menu of their home-brewed ales, lagers, witbiers and ciders. Veteran brewer Doolally has two taprooms now; one in Khar West and another in Andheri, pouring German-style hefeweizens, juicy Indian pale ales (IPAs) and lagers since 2009. A top addition to the city was opened by Pune-based Independence Brewing Company; its trendy Andheri West taproom has nine taps devoted to four-grain saisons, tasty IPAs, sours on occasion and one of India’s only double IPAs.

The Art World Spreads North

Artfully done art spaces

Old-school institution Bombay Art Society has a new, architecturally interesting home in Bandra West, containing a gallery space, library and amphitheatre. In quite the juxtaposition, a solid number of plucky gallerists have set up shop in the Western Suburbs, pushing to expand Mumbai’s contemporary art community beyond the confines of Colaba and Fort. Innovative spot Art and Charlie is one to prioritise. Gallery founder Ayesha Parikh aims to welcome a more socially diverse community, in response to the elitism that she felt synonymous with the Indian art world downtown. Super-cool DIY space Fluxus Chapel sells illustrations, prints and zines from their artist-led store in Bandra West. Method has a second location in Juhu that brings fresh talent to the area with temporary exhibitions.

A Bolly Good Legacy

The original heart of Bollywood

Bandra West has a strong claim of putting the B in Bollywood – the colossal Indian film industry flourished here, with the legendary Mehboob Studio opening up and movie stars moving in since the 1950s. Bollywood tours today tend to focus on SJ Studio in Andheri, before driving past the Bandra homes of famous actors. Unless you’re well versed in Bollywood history, it’s easy to miss this vital element of the neighbourhood, which has been bringing creatives to its streets for generations.

But fear not, Ranjit Dahiya, the artist behind Bollywood Art Project (@bollywoodartproject) is seeing to it that you and locals alike do not overlook or forget this local heritage, keeping Bandra’s Bollywood legacy alive with his huge murals. Hunting for his brightly coloured homages to India’s great stars of the past is not hard, as devotees to his work have popped them on Google maps. But in the 10 years he’s been hard at work immortalising the neighbourhood’s heritage, some murals do get lost in the sands of time. Today you can walk along Chapel Rd to view his great triptych on the wall at number 27, where the stars Asha Parekh, Waheeda Rehman and Helen greet you. A few houses along, you can spot action hero of the 1970s Dharmendra in his famous gun-slinging pose. On the parallel Waroda Rd, the late, great Irfan Khan (who sadly passed away all too young in 2020) stares into your soul as only he could. Despite being afraid of heights, Dahiya takes on huge projects on the sides of high-rises, recently working on the outer wall of the Bombay Art Society, where he and his staff of 14 painters completed a fantastic mural of Lata Mangeshkar, aka Lata Didi, in just 54 hours. You can see the warm smile of the extremely iconic singer of Bollywood soundtracks from the Western Hwy as your cab approaches the Western Suburbs.

BAKERIES OF BANDRA

At any time of day, 120-year-old J Hearsch & Co has a lengthy queue of locals waiting outside – for a reason. Unfathomably delicious veggie- or meat-stuffed rolls line the display cases, as do cakes, desserts and biscuits. People queue for 30 minutes on weekends and evenings but it’s worth it.

Nearby A1 Bakery, another takeaway-only window, offers a similar deal, serving puffs and rolls. Like Hearsch, there’s no eating on-site. A new addition straight from NYC, Magnolia Bakery is turning heads with their cupcakes and pastries and you can dine in here so you can rest those feet.

WHERE TO EAT IN THE WESTERN SUBURBS

Bambai Nazariya: This welcoming Parsi cafe with retro interiors in Andheri West is run by a trans and specially abled team. 11am-11pm ₹

Bawri: Delicious Goan fare in a tropically elegant spot in the BKC. Book ahead, and don’t miss the tiger prawns. noon-3.30pm & 7pm-1.30am ₹₹₹

Perch Wine & Coffee Bar: Come for the wine, stay for the burritos, Buddha bowls, wraps, soups, salads and charcuterie boards. 8am-1.20am ₹₹

Sheetal Bukhara: The flavoursome plates at this North Indian restaurant include Mumbai’s best dhal makhani. 11am-1.30am ₹₹

The LGBTIQ+ Scene

Mumbai’s is small but growing

Although homosexuality was decriminalised by India’s highest court in 2018, Mumbai’s LGBTIQ+ scene is still pretty underground, especially for women, but it’s gaining momentum.

A proudly inclusive club in the city, Kitty Su Mumbai runs excellent drag nights at their basement in the boutique Lalit Hotel, in Vile Parle, just near the airport. Join the crowd of ‘kittens’ at the wild parties every weekend, to cheer on the Indian and international drag artists who give iconic realness like it’s no thing at all. The club also hosts EDM nights with the most queer-friendly crowd in the city. Long-standing LGBTIQ+ event promoters D’kloset parties have moved their Rage parties into the venue also – so be sure to pack your dancing shoes, or most fabulous stilettos. You’re of course invited to join the brilliantly ostentatious day of celebrating Mumbai Pride (mumbaiqueerpride.org), held in early February every year, with a 2.5km parade looping the Kranti Maiden near the Royal Opera House. Queer-owned eatery Bambai Nazariya in Andheri West is a wonderfully inclusive space, staffed by trans and neurodivergent employees who serve you plates of incredible-smelling, mouth-watering Parsi cuisine. Stalwarts Gay Bombay (gaybombay.in) have been running events and providing support for the community for over 20 years – check their website for event listings including meetups, hosted bar and film nights, plus hiking trips, picnics and other queer-community info. Also check out the dates for the next Kashish Mumbai International Queer Film Festival (mumbaiqueerfest.com), which turned 15 in 2024. The excellent annual event screens a mix of Indian and foreign films, including LGBTIQ+ films from India.

Mumbai Pride | ARUN SAMBHU MISHRA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DIVE IN THE DIVE BARS

Smit Jain, owner, Steps Cafe, Bandra West. @stepsbandra

When we ran a hostel, we’d always recommend travellers check out Bandra’s dive bars, particularly YACHT Resto Bar and Janta Bar; it’s a great local experience. They’re no-nonsense: no fancy interior design, no music, just stainless-steel chairs and very cheap alcohol. It’s where we go with friends if we want to have a good conversation, because there’s nothing to distract you – like DJs or more ambience. These bars are full of locals, from students and workers to the older generation. They last for generations – some have been open for 50 years; you don’t get the same turnover and change as in other bars. And they’re packed every single night.

WHERE TO DRINK & DANCE

Bombay Cocktail Bar: In Andheri West; big flavours and big beats, EDM and Bollywood hits played by DJs. 7pm-1.30am Tue-Sat

Bonobo: This fun bar with an eclectic crowd has DJs spinning drum and bass, electronica and funky tech-house. 6pm-1.30am

Toto’s Garage: The staff at this themed bar know you’re here to party; the nights get extremely lively on weekends. 5pm-12.45am

The Daily: A veteran of Bandra nightlife, with banging cocktails and live music; the tempo and volume go up in the small hours. noon-1.30am

Theatre & Performance Are Live & Kicking

Delve into to the DIY theatre world

Andheri West and Juhu are the place to experience Mumbai’s extremely vibrant theatre scene. The former has a delightfully DIY vibe to sink into and the latter is home to one of the best arts institutions in the city – the Prithvi Theatre (prithvitheatre.org). If you’re short on time and want a snapshot of the theatrical landscape, the Prithvi is the place to go. Booking into a show there is pretty straightforward – top-quality performances are staged six days a week (it’s closed Mondays for rehearsals) and you’ll be on your feet, giving a standing ovation, in no time. Do check the language before booking, though – Prithvi curates and programs plays in Hindi, English, Marathi and Gujarati. You can make an afternoon of it as the wonderful garden cafe that looks like a theatre set is a lush place to grab a meal and watch the Juhu world go by. Prithvi is also home to a number of great festivals – be sure to keep your eyes peeled for listings by brilliant youth theatre organisation Thespo (thespo.org), who perform here every December, as well as in spaces around Juhu.

If you’ve got a week or more in the area, make the time to discover the unique local theatre world up in Andheri West, or more specifically the block of small black box venues in Aram Nagar, where thespian dreams percolate among Bollywood hopefuls. It’s said that 5000 young people with movie stars in their eyes move to Mumbai every year, and most of them act, direct and produce their own plays in the small spaces around Aram Nagar’s park, hoping to get spotted by a casting director. These theatres, such as longstanding Veda Black Box, its new sister organisation Veda Kunba Theatre, Creative Adda or Harkat Studios are affordable places to stage shows and affordable for you to attend – expect a play here to set you back a mere ₹200.

Western Mumbai | ASHOK RAO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BANDRA’S SEEING HANDS

Fifteen visually impaired massage therapists work at Mettaa Foot Spa on the 1st floor of a Bandra building on Hill Rd, ready to ease visitors’ aches and pains. Former nurse and yoga teacher Joanita Figueiredo founded this spa 14 years ago, inspired by her own reflexology training in Bangkok.

The reflexology masseuses are well paid by local standards and are recruited through the Victoria Memorial School for the Blind and the National Association for the Blind (NAB). Many of the staff are working and studying at the same time, as Figueiredo encourages the therapists to take up government jobs and complete their education. She also keeps the fees affordable, so all locals can afford to pop in.

FINDING WHAT’S ON

Glenn Hayden, theatre director and acting coach, Amphibian Productions (121)

Use ticketing services Book My Show (in.bookmyshow.com) and Insider (insider.in) to see what’s on in Andheri. A lot of smaller shows are listed on Instagram pages. I always tell visitors: to find out what’s going on, go and hang out in Aram Nagar for the day and cruise around the little cafes and be among all the actors talking about their projects and the shows they’re planning. It’s fun and you’ll soon hear what’s on. You never know what you’ll get, but you come across some beautiful gems. I saw a production of The Caretaker recently and loved it. It was a beautiful production with a lot of integrity.

Places We Love to Stay

₹ Budget ₹₹ Midrange ₹₹₹ Top End

Colaba

Backpacker Cowies ₹ The best downtown hostel, off Colaba Causeway. It is a welcoming space with dorm and private rooms.

Abode ₹₹ In Mumbai’s only boutique hotel, boho interiors and fluffy pillows await, as well as thoughtful staff and huge breakfast platters.

Bentley’s Hotel ₹₹ Staff at this retro outfit are extremely kind. Rooms are large and a complimentary breakfast is delivered on request.

Hotel Suba Palace ₹₹ This modern, brilliantly located place is a comfortable choice with a high-end Italian restaurant, the Table.

Taj Mahal Palace Hotel ₹₹₹ The most famous hotel in India is a marvel, from its opulent rooms, restaurants and bars to its iconic exterior.

Fort

Grand Hotel ₹₹ This charming heritage building on the Ballard Estate has well-kept rooms with retro interiors and fittings.

Residency Hotel Fort ₹₹ You will be well looked after at the best-run midranger in the area.

Marine Drive

Hotel Bentley ₹₹ A no-frills guesthouse on the 3rd floor of a lush art deco block. Book a seaview room.

Sea Green Hotel ₹₹ A nice budget stay in a 1930s apartment; simple rooms with amazing views if you nab a sea-facing balcony.

InterContinental ₹₹₹ The rooms give a nod to the art deco surroundings and boast some of the best views in the city.

Oberoi, Mumbai ₹₹₹ The most luxurious stay on Marine Drive, the chic rooms come with stand-alone baths and stunning views.

Lower Parel & Midtown

Bloom Hotel – Worli ₹₹ This hip Bloom branch is well located and has excellent service and a sleek yellow decor.

Hotel Bawa Regency ₹₹ Great mid-ranger with boho vibes in the spacious rooms. Great breakfast, both Indian and European.

Four Seasons Hotel ₹₹₹ The stars at the luxurious Four Seasons are the rooftop bar, pool and San:Qi Restaurant.

St Regis Mumbai ₹₹₹ Extremely posh vibes, with ayurvedic treatments at Iridium Spa, daily yoga practice and lavish afternoon tea.

ITC Grand Chola ₹₹₹ A sumptuous hotel in a colonial building. Well located, a large swimming pool and extremely elegant rooms.

The Western Suburbs

Locomo Express ₹ A great little hostel with crisp new rooms, including dorms and privates, plus well-designed communal workspaces.

Namastey Mumbai Backpackers ₹ Much-loved hostel in the thick of Bandra West. Come for the cheap beds and stay for the community.

Bloom Boutique Bandra ₹₹₹ A Bloom branch in the heart of trendy Bandra West; you pay for location. Brilliant staff and snazzy interiors.

Le Sutra ₹₹₹ Excellent four-star stay in Khar West, with boutique interiors that have gone for an arty Silk Road theme.

Taj Lands End ₹₹₹ Have the full, luxurious Taj Hotel experience at a cheaper price tag than its Colaba counterpart.

Maharashtra

ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE AND NATURAL BEAUTY

From 2000-year-old cave temples to vast modern cities, Maharashtra is full of historical wonders – not to mention a thriving wine region.

ROHAN_PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The home state of Mumbai stretches far beyond its capital with so much to offer the avid traveller, from the palm-lined shores of the historically rich Konkan Coast to the ancient architecture, modern cities, medieval hill forts and sprawling countryside inland to the east. The biggest draws for many – history geeks or otherwise – are the Ajanta and Ellora cave temples in northern Maharashtra, where extremely rare 2000-year-old murals and the largest monolithic sculpture in the world will blow your mind. Both are an easy drive from Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar (Aurangabad), a city with a rich culture of artisan crafts and some monumental architecture, which has a lot more going for it than its tourist-favoured neighbours.

Also in the north of the state, yet so much greener, the ancient city of Nashik sits on the confluence of two holy rivers and serves as a religious epicentre for myriad Hindus who visit its ghats (steps leading down to the holy river) to give their relatives their last rites. Beyond its old town centre, Nashik is also home to India’s up-and-coming wine industry, with vineyard after vineyard surrounding the city and a handful of wineries open for tasting sessions and excellent dining. Further south, the mighty tech hub of Pune draws in students, as it’s an infamous seat of academia with nightlife and a music scene to match it.

Kailash Temple, Ellora Caves | OSCAR ESPINOSA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE MAIN AREAS

PUNE

A tech hub and seat of academia.

AURANGABAD

Artisan craft and monumental architecture.

NASHIK

A sprawling wine region and spiritual epicentre.

KONKAN COAST

Sprawling seashore and culturally rich villages.

Find Your Way

India’s third-largest state spreads 720km from north to south and 800km east to west, with ancient trade routes, modern highways and useful train routes cutting through its expansive lands and lengthy coast.

Plan Your Days

Maharashtra is, like everywhere in India, bigger than it looks on the map, so don’t rush around it. Allow travel days between destinations and expect the unexpected, particularly with the trains.

Buddhist panting, Ajanta Caves | SHARPTOYOU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Weekend Break

• If you’ve only got a weekend, it’s got to be a trip to Aurangabad so you can visit the ancient marvels – the Ajanta Caves and Ellora Caves.

• Fly or take the train into Aurangabad on Friday and enjoy a delectable biryani from Hotel Tuba before resting at the Fern Residency Hotel.

• Hit the road early on Saturday to get to Ajanta as it opens at 9am, spending the day there marvelling at 2000-year-old murals. On Sunday be up with the birds to get to Ellora at 8am, before the crowds arrive, to make the most of the mind-boggling monolithic Kailash Temple.

A Week to Spare

• Following your weekend at Ajanta and Ellora, spend a day in Aurangabad itself, visiting the city’s last real himroo textiles handloom and the Bibi Ka Maqbara.

• Take the train or drive to Nashik the following day and spend a few days at the idyllic Utopia Farmstay. While there, maybe give yourself a digital detox and enjoy hiking, yoga and carpentry led by Utopia’s hosts. If it’s history you’re after, head into Nashik’s centre, ideally with a guide, to weave through the ghats and temples of this spiritual hub. Whatever you go for, be sure to tour Nashik’s wineries.

Slow Travel Time

• Spend a month easing into Maharashtra’s zen. After an extended stay in Nashik (you won’t want to rush out of there), spend a couple of weeks at the incredible 100-year-old Kaivalyadhama Yoga Institute in Lonavala, the world’s first centre to scientifically study the tangible health benefits of yoga.

• Once you’ve unwound in leafy green Lonavala, head to the Osho International Meditation Resort in Pune for a week of meditation. If a week’s not long enough, book into the Vipassana International Academy program at Dhamma Giri in Igatpuri, the world’s first full-time vipassana yoga retreat opened by SN Goenka himself.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

The ‘winter’ months of November to January promise manageable heat but air pollution is rife. Monsoon (June to August) can be great if you don’t mind a downpour.

MARCH

Holi parties in Pune are huge and, as the city is nightlife central, expect DJs to feature on the line-up.

JULY

Monsoon season is a great time to visit hill station Lonavala, with the waterfalls running deep and hills glowing with greens.

AUGUST

Naag Panchami snake festival is celebrated in Pune, while the Kumbh Mela will be at its peak in Nashik this month in 2027.

SEPTEMBER

Ganesh Chaturthi is huge across Maharashtra but particularly in Pune.

OCTOBER

The Hindu festival Dussehra is celebrated for 10 days in early October (or late September depending on the lunar cycle).

NOVEMBER

Diwali, the Hindu festival of lights, is celebrated with great aplomb across the state, but at the ghats of Nashik particularly.

DECEMBER

Most attractions will be open over Christmas, plus New Year’s Eve is not an official national public holiday. You’ll likely find low-key celebrations on the 25th and 31st.

Pune

LIVE MUSIC | HISTORICAL HEART | INFAMOUS MEDITATION CENTRE

Thanks to the density of universities in the city, Pune buzzes with ingenuity; from its academic prowess to its more recent role of innovative start-up hub. Fuelled by its young professionals and students, the city promises fun nights out, with a vibrant music scene that hosts gigs for acts across all genres. Amid all this newness, like so many of India’s tech-savvy cities, there’s a rich history woven into its fabric. Pune was both a domestic and military base of great medieval Maratha ruler Shivaji, who grew up in the city and later made it his capital – a number of his palaces and temples survive today. The real heady mix of capitalism and spiritualism in Pune started with the arrival of infamous guru Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh, who founded his ashram here in 1974; it still brings in devoted pilgrims from near and far.

GETTING AROUND

Pune’s metro currently has two lines, purple and aqua, with a third on the way. It’s handy if you’re staying on the outskirts but is largely a commuter service from the suburbs. Autorickshaws are the quickest way to get around. You can flag one on the street or use the Ola or Uber apps to order both rickshaws or cars.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum

SIGHTS

2   Mahatma Phule Museum

3   Osho International Meditation Resort

SLEEPING

4   Bloom Hotel – Koregaon Park

5   Hotel Ketan

Osho Meditation Resort Guesthouse (see 3)

6   Sunderban Resort & Spa

EATING

7   Donna Cucina

8   Garden Vadapav Center

9   Paashh

10   SP’s Biryani House

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

11   Daily All Day

12   SWIG

TOP TIP

Visit during Ganesh Chaturthi; Pune’s celebration of Ganesh is one of the biggest in the country. Pune is also the home of Naag Panchami, a huge snake festival in late July or early August.

Quite Quirky Museums

Get your culture on

Let Pune’s museums charm you with their unusual collections. The star of the Mahatma Phule Museum is its time warp feel; the collection of anthropological artefacts and stuffed animals hasn’t been changed in decades. The Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum houses one man’s collection of religious icons in his wonderful pink house – wandering in the courtyard is a real treat. Joshi’s Museum of Miniature Railways has a mini city full of tracks where you can see everything from steam trains to bullet trains whizz past you. On a more serious note, take a turn of the Gandhi National Memorial in the Aga Khan Palace, visiting the rooms where the Mahatma was imprisoned along with his wife Kasturba and their colleague Mahadeobhai Desai. The latter two died during their incarceration – there are shrines containing their ashes in the museum garden.

WHERE TO EAT IN PUNE

SP’s Biryani House: This no-frills diner serves delicious, meat-heavy biryani and curries. Order paratha on the side. 11am-3pm & 7-11pm ₹

Garden Vadapav Center: Swing by this fast-food joint for vada pav, the chutney-laden potato burgers. 9am-10pm ₹

Donna Cucina: This lovely Italian restaurant in Koregaon Park stands out, with service as wonderful as their pizzas and caponatas. noon-10pm ₹₹

Paashh: This swanky cafe north of the river uses organic seasonal produce to craft Asian fusion and Euro classics that look like edible art. 9am-11pm ₹₹₹

Flocks of Flamingos at Bhigwan

Birdwatching never looked so pink

While certainly not the only winged wonders at Bhigwan Bird Sanctuary, the massive flocks of migrating pink flamingos are the main attraction. As your small boat rolls over the backwaters of Ujani Lake, where thousands of the salmon-coloured beauts make a pit stop, quietly prepare your camera and watch their movements in awe, ready to click. Visit between December and March, during winter. Also keep your eyes peeled for Eurasian spoonbills, osprey and the fastest bird of the animal kingdom, the peregrine falcon. It would be remiss not to go with a guide and they don’t come better than the team at Pune-based naturalist organisation and birding specialists, Nemophilist (thenemophilist.in).

Bhigwan Bird Sanctuary | DR AJAY KUMAR SINGH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

INDIA’S ACADEMIC HUB

With 25 universities and over 90 colleges running undergrad and postgrad programs, it’s clear to see why Pune was coined ‘Oxford of the East’. From nationally high-ranking institutions Dr DY Patil Vidyapeeth, Symbiosis International and Bharati Vidyapeeth, to long-standing and revered campuses Fergusson College, MIT and Savitribai Phule Pune University, the student population of the city have friendly rivalry between their chosen seats of academia. You’ll see bags and scarves donning their logos.

Put the ‘Meditation’ into Club Med

Visit Osho’s meditation retreat

Thirty-five years after his death, Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh (1931–90), known widely as Osho, continues to be one of India’s most internationally famous and controversial gurus. His sex-positive philosophies made him famous, but murder attempts at his village in Oregon made him infamous. Whether you love or loathe him, his teachings and spiritual practices live on at the Osho International Meditation Resort, which, as he said himself, was designed to be ‘a spiritual Club Med, as in Meditation’.

From the moment you enter the leafy green confines of this sanctuary and put on a maroon robe to join the sannyasins (Osho followers), the outside world dissolves. Sit in the crossed-legged sukhasana position and let your eyelids close for morning meditation, before sinking into the pool and sauna of the Basho Spa, or signing up for additional therapies at the Multiversity, including sound healing, hypnosis, counselling, qigong, Osho zen tarot and astrology. To register at the resort, get to reception between 9am and 12.30pm or between 2pm and 3.30pm, with your passport in hand. A daily meditation pass costs ₹1950, and a three-day pass ₹4970.

PUNE’S LIVE MUSIC SCENE

Karan Nathani, manager at SWIG Bar & Eatery. @swig_pune

Pune nightlife is up and coming; we’ve seen it grow since we opened 13 years ago. In the beginning SWIG was a neighbourhood bar but in the last eight years or so we’ve become a community, so if you come here alone, you’ll know the people around you and the people who work here. We have three branches now; the Koregaon Park branch was the first to open. We have a healthy mix of students and young professionals in and host live music every Tuesday of all genres; rock, retro, pop, indie. Whoever is on tour comes by. We also support local musicians; we grow, they grow. That’s our concept.

DANCING & DRINKING: PUNE’S BEST NIGHTLIFE

Daily All Day: Koregaon Park Restaurant by day and cool cocktail bar by night, the Daily All Day is great for live music, hosting jazz, folk and indie bands. noon-1am

SWIG, Koregaon Park: A pumping bar with an extremely friendly community and live music. Pull up a chair, order some beer and be entertained. noon-midnight

Ballr: Pune’s biggest nightclub promises a huge night out. Expect anything from international EDM acts to beloved local DJs and pyrotechnics. 5pm-1.30am Fri-Mon & Wed

Independence Brewing Company: Pune’s best brewery has been serving craft beer since 2011 and has IPAs, lagers and hefeweizen on tap, to name a few. noon-1.30am

A WALK THROUGH PUNE’S HISTORIC CENTRE

Start your tour at the imposing stone 1 Shaniwar Wada. Built by Maratha leader Peshwar Baji Rao I in 1732, only the stone foundations of his seven-storey teak fortress remain, but it’s worth seeing the ruins and garden inside. Turn right out of the gates, right again up Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj (CSM) Rd, and first left into Kasba Peth to 2 Kasba Ganpati Mandir. The oldest temple in Pune was built by Shivaji’s mother in 1630, devoting it to Ganesh. In 1893, famous freedom fighter Bal Gangadhar Tilak relaunched Ganesh Chaturthi from this temple. Turn out of the temple down to Ganesh Rd. Walk along Ganesh Rd to 3 Laal Mahal, a beautiful villa and all that remains of the vast palace where Shivaji spent his childhood with his mum, Jijabai. Carry on up Ganesh Rd and turn left onto CSM Rd to admire 4 Nana Wada, a huge mansion built in 1780 as the residence of Nana Phadnavis, a minister and statesman of the Maratha empire. Keep heading up CSM Rd to 5 Shreemant Dagdusheth Halwai Ganpati Mandir, one of the wealthiest temples in Maharashtra, with a large gold Ganesh idol inside. After a quick visit, turn right onto Laxmi Rd and walk along to the bustling 6 Tulsi Baug market, with everything from clothes and shoes to flowers and street food. Carry on through the market to the junction and turn left to admire 7 Vishrambaug Wada, an ornate mansion (closed for renovation at the time of writing) that was the residence of Peshwa Baji Rao II, the last Peshwa of Maratha confederacy. To end where you started, turn right and walk down Bajirao Rd back to Shaniwar Wada.

Beyond Pune

The hills of southern Maharashtra provide respite from its cities and, at just an hour’s drive from Pune, make an idyllic retreat.

There are picturesque landscapes galore in the stretch of land to the west of Pune, with the mighty Western Ghats – aka the Sahyadri mountain range – cutting through the expanse between the city and the coast. The hills of the range provided shelter for ancient Buddhists, who carved temples into the caves and cliff faces, while the medieval Maharatha empire used the peaks as military lookouts, building (or conquering and repurposing) hundreds of forts in the region.

If you’re an avid trekker, architecture buff or in need of some serenity, it’s a great area to explore, whether driving for a day trip from Pune or opting to stay in the temperate hill station of Lonavala, on the Mumbai–Pune Expressway.

GETTING AROUND

The Pune to Mumbai trains stop at Lonavala, a major station on this route. Once in Lonavala, there’s little in the way of public transport so engage an autorickshaw driver to take you around on a day rate (costing from ₹1500 upwards depending on your negotiating skills). Alternatively, rent a car or a taxi driver on a daily rate from Pune.

Lonavala TIME FROM PUNE: 50 MINS

Zen out at Kaivalyadhama Yoga Institute

Treat yourself to a stay at the oldest scientific yoga institute in the world, where doctors and teachers have been studying the tangible benefits of yogic practice since 1924. As you walk into the leafy, tranquil campus at Kaivalyadhama Yoga Institute, it feels like you’re entering a different world, waves of calm instantly lapping over you.

There’s a wide range of programs, from postgraduate degrees in yoga to week-long retreats, where you’re encouraged to leave your phone in your suitcase and completely switch off. Ease into a health reset that can be tailored to your individual needs – the departments of Ayurvedic Medicine and Naturopathy are also on campus. Enjoy soothing treatments that rebalance your doshas (fire, earth and air; the energy sources within) and let your nervous system relax, helping with burn-out or any aches and pains you need to tend to.

Hill trekking near Pune | SUGITAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Fudge heaven at Cooper’s

Tell your friends from Mumbai that you’re popping to Lonavala and the first thing they’ll say is ‘bring me Cooper’s fudge’ – it’s a must for any sweet-toothed visitor. As you enter one of the two parlours at Cooper’s Fudge, you’ll see why. The huge range of flavours on the menu will make your mouth water, whether you go for a fruity mango option or the nutty best seller, walnut chocolate fudge. Dig into the sticky heavenly goo; you’ll wish you’d bought more.

EMBRACING NATURE IN LONAVALA

Franki Dhanak, owner and founder of Franki’s Pizza. @frankispizzeria/

Lonavala is a wonderful place to enjoy nature, a great getaway from the cities. It’s only a small town and famous locally for its treks; the most popular is up a hill called Duke’s Nose. It’s an easy walk up – it only takes an hour or so – and the views from the top are amazing; you can see the hills all around. My favourite thing to do to relax is horse riding at the small stables at Leela Villa. They only have a few horses, but you can ask to join them for a ride. I like to ride around the lakes in the area, it’s so scenic and peaceful.

WHERE TO EAT IN LONAVALA

Oven Fresh, 1993: Good service in a chapel-esque food hall serving delicious brunch and dinner including Gujarati, South Indian and vegan dishes. 7am-midnight ₹₹

Franki’s Pizza: It’s a family affair at Lonavala’s best pizzeria, with Franki and her father serving wood-fired pizzas. Call ahead to dine in. noon-2pm & 6-9pm ₹₹

Markaiz: An enjoyably posh cafe upstairs from Cooper’s Fudge, with a Parsi menu as well as European dishes. Don’t skip dessert. 10.30am-11pm ₹₹₹

Anglo Indian Cafe: This bright bijou space serves fabulous soups and salads alongside delicious paneer tikka rolls, not to mention the cakes. 11am-midnight ₹₹₹

A CAVES & FORTS DRIVE

Whether you’ve rented a car or a driver, take a day to explore the area beyond Pune. Head northwest out of the city and drive for 55km to the ancient 1 Karla Caves. Climb up the steep winding steps to the rock-cut complex dating from 200 BCE. They’re in fantastic condition; the Great Chaitya hall (Cave 8) is particularly impressive with its whale-ribcage-like ceiling and stupa at the apex.

Hop back in the car and drive south for 20 minutes to 2 Bhaja waterfall, just a few minutes’ walk from the road. It’s very picturesque if you catch it at the right time of year (June to October) – it only runs deep through monsoon season or soon after. A few minutes’ drive further are 3 Bhaja Buddhist Caves. They’re a 30-minute walk uphill and less preserved than Karla’s but still grand, with much of the ornate structural carving intact. Another 10-minute drive south leads to 4 Lohgad Fort, last used by the Maharathi ruler Shivaji as his treasury. It’s well maintained and worth conquering the 300 chunky steps to marvel at the bastions, titanic gates and views of the lakes and hills below. Glance back north and you’ll see Visapur Fort in the distance, now overgrown.

You’ll likely be famished by now, so drive to 5 Lonavala for lunch before carrying on northwest to Udhewadi village, the starting point for the shorter, 40-minute trek to the peak of illustrious 6 Rajmachi Fort. The fort itself is mostly in ruins but the vistas of surrounding waterfalls and hillsides are breathtaking – the path gets very muddy during monsoon but many prefer to visit during this time for the verdant views.

Aurangabad

CREATIVE TRADITIONS | DELECTABLE FLAVOURS | REGAL ARCHITECTURE

Renamed Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar in 2023, the city still largely known as Aurangabad is a sprawling, low-rise industrial hub and education centre in the north of Maharashtra. Its former namesake, the last Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb, made it his capital from 1653 to 1707 so it’s home to some impressive architecture in the form of a mini Taj Mahal, Bibi Ka Maqbara.

While it has a Hindu majority population today, there’s a legacy of Islamic gastronomy (you don’t have to look far for an excellent biryani) and creative industries. Silk textiles were once the city’s main export and it’s still known for its gorgeous, intricate handwoven himroo and Paithani saris. Above all else, Aurangabad draws in local and international tourists as it makes an excellent base for exploring the unmissable World Heritage Sites of Ajanta and Ellora caves, which are an absolute must on any Maharashtra itinerary.

GETTING AROUND

Aurangabad train station and Central Bus Stand Aurangabad both perch on the western end of the city centre. Once you disembark, it’s taxis and auto-rickshaws onward – both are flaggable using the Ola or Uber apps. Alternatively you might want to hire a driver at a daily rate, especially if you plan to visit Ajanta Caves (a 2½-hour drive from the city) and Ellora Caves (45 minutes from the city).

TOP TIP

Aurangabad’s most famous sites – Ellora, Ajanta and Daulatabad Fort – are all hefty drives out of the city and impressive, time-worthy places if you fully take them in. They easily take up a day each. Some tour companies promise all three in one day but that’s an exhausting approach.

Another Impressive Mughal Mausoleum

Marvel at the Bibi Ka Maqbara

Mughal gem the Bibi Ka Maqbara was built by Aurangzeb’s son Azam Shah in 1679 as a mausoleum for his mother Rabia-ud-Daurani. It will likely make you exclaim ‘it really does look like the Taj Mahal’ as you stroll in via its teak wood doors. It’s less luxurious than its Agra counterpart but if you’re thinking you’ll have loads of space to take photos, lounging on the stone bench with the fountain and grand dome behind you, think again. It may not be the Taj but it’s still a very busy, popular site, particularly with domestic tourists.

Weave through the crowd and up the stairs into the tomb itself, keeping your eyes peeled for the quintessentially Mughal decor of geometric carvings and floral motifs indented into the ceiling and walls. The landscaped lawns around the dome and turrets are a serene space well worth taking in, particularly to view the Bibi Ka Maqbara from different angles.

The complex is located 3km northwest of the city centre, roughly ₹100 in an autorickshaw if you use Ola or Uber.

Pack Your Hiking Boots

March up to Daulatabad Fort

It’s worth your sweat and tears (but hopefully no blood) to trek for an hour to the summit of the ruined yet majestic medieval citadel, Daulatabad. It sits 200m high, 15km away from Aurangabad on the road to Ellora. First built by Yadava kings in the 12th century, it was renamed Daulatabad (meaning City of Fortune) in 1328 by Delhi sultan Mohammed Tughlaq, who reinforced the 5km bastions with plans of making the site his capital city. Designed to be impregnable, the hike up to the top of the ruined wonder is no joke, but the views and impressive medieval architecture are thrilling if you love cardio with your historical sights.

Pack water and a torch, and allow half a day to explore. Note this might not be for you if you suffer from claustrophobia or vertigo, as part of the mission winds through a murky tunnel.

Daulatabad | ROSWEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SPOT THE GATES

Aurangabad was nicknamed the City of Gates and it won’t take you long to see why.

When Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb conquered the city in 1636, he began a grand fortification project, constructing a wall and 52 gates to protect his new regional capital from the growing Maratha empire to the south. Of the 52 gates only 13 are still standing: four main city entrances and nine smaller gateways.

The oldest and largest, the Bhadkal Gate, pre-dates Aurangzeb. It was built in 1612 as a victory gate by Ethiopian military leader Malik Ambar. You’ll likely pass through the Makai Gate on the way to Bibi Ka Maqbara, and there’s still a stretch of city wall on either side of it.

The Last Looms

Visit the last himroo handloom

To witness a truly rare craft in action, track down Aurangabad’s last authentic himroo factory, tucked away in the old city centre. Himroo is one of India’s finest textiles, made of silk and cotton, adorned with specific motifs. Aurangabad is the home of these intricately decorated shawls and stoles with lush patterns of leaves, flowers, peacocks, parrots, lotus and creepers. Himroo has been produced here for centuries and is a great souvenir, but today almost all of these wares are factory made or produced on electric power looms.

To step back in time and see the last of the city’s handlooms in action, visit the Himroo Factory on Old Mondha Rd (call the Qureshi family in advance to let them know you’re coming: 9822961416) and be transfixed by the delicate expertise of the workers (one of whom has been working his loom for over 50 years, taking over from his father) as you watch the looms shudder back and forth. There are three huge handlooms here, each one operated by two craftspeople to create the made-to-order fabric; 6m shawls will set you back ₹6000, while smaller stoles cost ₹4500, taking three weeks to produce. There’s no obligation to purchase anything, but you’ll likely want to, as the Qureshis are very passionate about keeping this traditional craft and their family heritage alive. Ask to see their small archive of photographs and handwritten letters of thanks from celebrities through the ages.

HOW TO RECOGNISE HANDWOVEN LOOM WORK

Imran Qureshi, Himroo Factory, Aurangabad

There are some big giants in the field of power looms, selling in the name of himroo. They don’t have handlooms, it’s all machine made. Those who have big showrooms say it’s handmade but it’s not the real thing.

Since the 14th century we have been working on the same technique. I’m the fifth generation of my family running our factory. We could also install power looms, but we want to keep this legacy alive and keep the locals employed.

Himroo made on a handloom is less stiff. Also check on the backside of the cloth; if it’s made on a handloom you will see small checks making a grid.

EATING IN AURANGABAD

Hotel Tuba: No frills but scintillating flavours at Tuba, loved for the generous plates of biryani with chicken, mutton or beef. 7am-11.30pm ₹

Green Leaf: The best dhal makhani (lentils and kidney beans with cream and butter) is served at this excellent restaurant. noon-10.30pm ₹₹

Yalla Yalla: A delicious meat-heavy menu of Indian classics like butter chicken and mutton kebabs, plus Indo-Chinese fusion. 11am-midnight ₹₹

Vegan Veg Restaurant: This veggie diner near the station serves excellent paneer and dhal dishes – try the sugary, deep-fried jalebi. noon-11pm ₹₹

TOP SIGHT

Ellora Caves

Just an hour’s drive from Aurangabad, this sprawling complex cut into caves and hillsides includes India’s finest religious architecture: Kailash Temple, the biggest monolithic sculpture in the world. While all 30+ temples in the zone are marvellous, Kailash is the unparalleled show stopper – nothing really prepares you for this monumentally tall temple, covered in intricately carved deities.

Kailash Temple | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code for tickets and opening hours.

DON’T MISS

Cave 2

Cave 5

Cave 10

Cave 12

Cave 16 (Kailash)

Cave 30

Cave 32

The Wonder of Kailash

Mosey through the rock doorway of the low gopuram (gateway tower) – with Shaivite carvings lining the left wall and Vaishnavite carvings on the right – and the enormity of this feat of ancient design really hits you. Stepping into the courtyard and gazing up at the mandapa (pillared hall) and the almost pyramid-like shikhara (tower) behind it, you can fully grasp just how deep into the hill face this incredible temple was burrowed.

Seven thousand artisan workers dug three vertical trenches 80m deep, starting on the top of the hill. They removed all vegetation and burned wood on the surface of the rock to heat it up. This formed cracks in the ground that workers hammered and cut into with pickaxes. About 200,000 tonnes of rock was removed from the trenches, which took 14 years to completely dredge, before the massive stone cubes were left in the middle of the courtyard, to carve into.

From above (walk up the side of the hill for this view) you can see that the temple resembles a chariot – but leave that view until the end. Take a clockwise loop of the masterpiece, starting by turning left into the courtyard. Don’t miss the rare monolithic elephant sculpture or the Mahabharata frieze on the left side of the mandapa. Take a few steps up into the arcaded corridor, lined with deities, which leads you around to the right side of the building. The steps on the right side of the temple lead into the main shrine. Remove your shoes as you go into the main Shiva shrine where the lingam (phallic image of Shiva) is carved. Exit back into the right side of the courtyard to clock the Ramayana frieze on the right wall of the mandapa.

The Buddhist Caves

Just a few minutes’ walk from Kailash is a cluster of Buddhist cave temples (600–800 CE). Cave 1 is a vihara (Buddhist monastery). Cave 2 stands out with ornate Egyptian-influenced pillars and an imposing seated Buddha that faces the sunset. Cave 5 is the largest vihara in Ellora at 18m wide and 36m long; the rows of stone benches suggest it may have been an assembly hall. Cave 10 is the only chaitya (worship hall) in the Buddhist group and one of India’s finest; its ceiling features ribs carved into the stonework. The balcony level gives a closer view of the ceiling and the window that illuminates an enormous Buddha. The two-storey Cave 11 is entered through its basement level, and the impressive three-storey Cave 12 is accessed through the courtyard. The shrine on the top floor contains a large Buddha flanked by his seven previous incarnations.

The Jain Caves

The five Jain caves, the youngest found at Ellora, are monolithic like Kailash Temple, but much smaller in size. Nevertheless they are home to some exceptionally detailed paintings and carvings. Don’t miss Cave 30 – known as chota Kailash (little Kailash) for its similar but less successful stone carving attempts – and Cave 32, whose columns don intricately carved foliage, suggesting Roman influence along the trade routes in the area.

UP EARLY

If you’re keen to get to Ellora as early as possible to beat the crowds, it’s worth staying next door to the complex to arrive for the 6am door opening. Hotel Kailas, just a few minutes’ walk from the entrance gate, has simple cottages and a terrific restaurant.

TOP TIPS

• The Ellora complex is closed on Tuesday.

• Pack snacks. There’s nowhere to get refreshments once you’re inside the complex, but food vendors line the road outside.

• Save your feet the trouble and use the golf buggies to get around – it’s ₹30 a ride up to caves 29–32. You pay for the return tickets at a stand near Kailash; have your ticket handy to show to the buggy driver.

• Visit during monsoon season to avoid the crowds; it will be wet but peaceful. Alternatively, 6am to 8am is less crowded. It gets busy by 10am.

TOP SIGHT

Ajanta Caves

A hundred kilometres north of Aurangabad, 29 caves line the verdant green horseshoe river bend. The caves house ancient Buddhist viharas and chaityas built between 200 BCE and 500 CE, making them some of the earliest religious buildings in India. It’s the intricate and incredibly rare murals that draw people here though, a time capsule to Indian culture, faith and fashion almost two millennia ago.

MISTERSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code for tickets and opening hours.

DON’T MISS

Ancient murals

Stupas

Reclining Buddha

Deity sculptures

Monk’s cells (in Cave 12)

Amazing views

Smith’s signature (on a pillar in Cave 10)

Lost then Found

For centuries, resident monks carved sculptures and painted murals to educate and convert locals to Buddhism. The monks abandoned Ajanta around the time the Ellora Caves were built – perhaps because they moved down there or, some historians think, due to a lack of royal patronage of Buddhism in the 8th century.

Untouched for 1200 years, British Captain John Smith spotted Ajanta in 1819 from a viewpoint while hunting for tigers. He came down into the valley and found Cave 10, filled with mud and bats. He carved his signature onto a pillar on the right-hand side of Cave 10, which you can see with torchlight.

Two lookouts offer picture-perfect views of the natural beauty of the horseshoe-shaped gorge. The first is a short walk beyond the river, crossed via a bridge below Cave 8. A further 40-minute uphill walk (not to be attempted during the monsoons) leads to the lookout from where the British party first spotted the caves.

Unmissable Frescoes

The incredibly rare, ancient murals in Caves 1, 2, 16 and 17 are usually referred to as frescoes but they are technically temperas (using a mix of pigment and emulsion). Either way, these mind-blowing murals depict portraits, patterns, mythological stories of Buddha’s previous lives, flora and fauna and celestial beings, all produced by artisan monks around 2000 years ago. Monks used plaster to smooth the rough walls. Artists then painted with colours produced from natural sources, such as red from a volcanic rock called red ochre, and blue from lapis lazuli stone – the most expensive colour at the time.

Don’t miss the famous bodhisattva painting in Cave 1, one of the highlights of Ajanta. Don’t forget to look at the ceilings – bring your own torch if visiting DIY – to see Ajanta lotus, fruits, flowers, cubic and geometric designs and human figures.

Cave murals | PRATIMAAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mighty Old Sculpture

The 29 caves that stretch 1km around the horseshoe are a real feat of human ingenuity, which is actually more evident in the unfinished caves. Here you can see the raw lava and stone the monks had to work with – a great example of this is the largest cave, Cave 4, which still has its raw ceiling, but also an impressive shrine with one central Buddha surrounded by four standing Buddhas – all giving blessings, with their hands out. It’s a very peaceful space, without frescoes, and feels like an inviting space to meditate. Some people sit there and do so. The caves are built on different levels in the cliff face, depending on the rock quality. Cave 9 has a mighty stupa from 200 BCE – with an apse and columns similar in layout to a cathedral – while Cave 10 next door has a similar but much larger entrance. Don’t miss the last accessible space, Cave 26, which has an extraordinary reclining Buddha, the concluding tale in the sequence of caves – his death scene.

CARRIED AWAY

Ajanta has a fleet of dholi (portable ‘chair’) carriers ready to carry elderly or mobility-impaired visitors up the flights of stairs that dip up and down a few times along the path to the caves. Four staff members carry the sedan-esque chair and the service costs ₹2000 per visitor (to the caves and back); confirm prices before you ride.

TOP TIPS

• Ajanta Caves are closed on Mondays.

• Have ₹60 worth of small change handy for the bus that takes you from the car park to the caves entrance.

• Tour groups and school trips arrive around 11am, so arriving when the site opens at 9am gives you a couple of hours without large crowds.

• There’s a good restaurant in the precinct gates and fruit sellers line the exit path.

• Indian langur monkeys live in the forested area around the caves and sometimes sit along the entrance and exit pathways – they’re a docile species, just don’t flaunt food in front of them.

Nashik

RURAL | TRADITIONAL | SPIRITUAL HEARTLAND

Nashik, just a few hours east of Mumbai, is awash with ancient traditions, religious ceremonies and ornate wooden architecture. The old town centre was built on the banks of the Godavari River and hosts India’s holiest of religious gatherings, the Kumbh Mela, every 12 years – with the next one to take place between 2026 and 2028. But Nashik also has huge daily significance as one of the places in the country where Hindus scatter the ashes of their family members at the ghats. Beyond the town centre, the wider region is home to gorgeous rural resorts and eco-stays, surrounded by lakes and reservoirs. More famously there’s also India’s nascent wine region, which has expanded exponentially in the past 20 years. The clean, green city is a breath of fresh air and an excellent getaway, whether you’re here for wine, nature, meditation or to soak up the spiritual vibes.

GETTING AROUND

Public transport is scarce in Nashik, particularly in the rural outskirts, so employing a driver (whether that’s an autorickshaw or car) at a daily rate is the most cost-effective way to get around. Nashik is accessible by train (Nashik Rd station is east of the town centre) and autorickshaws sit at the station waiting to pick up passengers.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Ramkund Ghat

SIGHTS

2   Harihar Fort

3   Vipassana International Academy

SLEEPING

4   Beyond by Sula

5   Palm Springs

6   Source at Sula

7   Utopia Farmstay

EATING

8   Baracco Multi-Cuisine

Budha Halwai (see 1)

9   Malaka Spice

10   Tales & Spirits Bistro

TOP TIP

Staying outside the city centre, near the Gangapur reservoir, is a serene experience and many of the vineyards and top restaurants are in this area.

Holy Nashik

Visit the ghats, temples and festivals

Nashik’s spiritual significance runs deep – so deep in fact, it’s embedded in the city’s name, taken from a gnarly scene of the Ramayana when Rama’s sister has her nasika (nose) chopped off. Even if your Sanskrit is minimal, you cannot miss the scenes of devotion in the old town centre – hundreds of Hindus visit daily to perform the last rites for the remains of their loved ones, knee deep in water, sending ashes down the Godavari River from the ghats of Ramkund. As you visit this embankment you’ll notice a white column where some of Gandhi’s ashes are entombed.

Every 12 years these ghats host the biggest holy celebration in the world, the Kumbh Mela. If you want to witness the planet’s largest pilgrimage, where thousands of ascetics and sadhus congregate every day to bathe in the river, you’re in luck, Nashik will next host between October 2026 and July 2028 – with the main event, the Shahi Snan (Royal Dip), in August 2027.

There’s a plethora of ancient temples to visit in the old town centre. Your best bet is joining a guide to learn as much as possible, while getting the customs right. Brilliant free walking tours of the old town centre are run by journalist and author Ramesh Padwal (8380098107) on the second and fourth Sundays of the month (it’s in Marathi so take a translator). You can book private tours in English or Hindi with Amrita Gangatirkar at Nashik Heritage Trails (@nashikheritagetrails).

Grounding Nashik

Hikes, treks, walks and more

Beyond the spiritual old town centre and wine industry that tend to hog the local limelight, the outskirts and suburbs of Nashik are awash with lush green landscapes, ideal for hikes and treks up hills and around lakes. Find a peaceful farmstay to base yourself at and employ a guide from your guesthouse or Conservation Tales (@conservationtales) to lead you through forests to one of the many waterfalls in the area. Take care not to slip as you feel the spray of the thundering downpour on your face.

The climb to the top of imposing Harihar Fort is rewarded with sweeping views that take in the Western Ghats. If ornithology is your thing, get in touch with the team at Conservation Tales, Nashik’s best organisation of naturalists, who run free monthly tours or can deliver tailor-made tours to take you looking for anything from butterflies to hyenas.

WHY I LOVE NASHIK

Lucie Grace, Lonely Planet writer

A visit to Nashik is soul enriching in every possible way. There’s something magnetic about deeply ancient places. Thanks to the confluence of so many rivers, the Nashik area has been occupied for thousands of years so there’s something palpably magical in the air, whether you’re gazing over the Gangapur reservoir or taking in the rolling vineyards.

It’s also an incredibly calming green little city that lives between hectic metropolises Mumbai, Pune and Aurangabad, so I feel myself exhale and unwind on pulling up to Nashik. As a history buff (which I unashamedly am) there’s so much to learn about, from the Dalit protests to the teak architecture of the Peshwas. One visit to Nashik is just not enough.

HELP ME PICK:

Nashik Wine Region

The lush rural surrounds of Nashik have been growing grapes since ancient times but reaping raisins. In the late 1990s, a couple of entrepreneurs realised that the region, with its fertile soils and temperate climate, provided great conditions for wine cultivation. Industry pioneer Sula Vineyards invested in a crop of Sauvignon Blanc and the first batch of domestic wine hit the shelves in 2000. Oenophiles rejoice; Nashik hasn’t looked back since.

SHIKHA A/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Where to Sip if You Want…

The Industry Leaders

Sula Vineyards Founder and owner Rajeev Samant first planted Sauvignon and Chenin in Nashik in 1999, harvesting the first bottles in 2000 and India’s wine industry was born. Today the Sula winery is a sleek, chic operation; a streamlined site that offers wine tasting and tours, a brilliant restaurant, swish hotels and a large amphitheatre for music events. With an undisputed claim to be the most visited winery in the world, they are the local greats.

Sula Vineyards | DHANANJAY BHAGAT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A Boutique Experience

York Winery & Tasting Room Recently bought out by Sula, York wines are well established and well respected, with a smaller menu than their neighbours (Sula is 1km down the road) but with some excellent wines. They’re particularly famous for their Arros. It’s a quieter tasting and dining experience, with extremely enthusiastic and knowledgeable staff explaining the wine-making process. Their popular restaurant Cellar Door has a broad range of Indian dishes.

Views to Die For

Vallonne Vineyards Vallonne’s picture-perfect vineyards, 30km south of Nashik, sprawl down into the valley on the banks of Mukhne Dam. The fine winery – stocked with award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah Reserve and more – comes with stunning views of the lake and Sahyadri mountains – a complete treat for the senses. There’s a six-bedroom boutique guesthouse and delectable Southeast Asian fusion at Malaka Spice restaurant.

Experimental Flavours

Soma Vine Village Formerly part of Sula’s vineyards, Soma broke away to go it alone in 2010 with a host of concoctions conceived in their on-site laboratory. Making sweet offerings for an Indian palate, Soma presents two wines made from pomegranate – Anarkali Medium Sweet and Anarkali Off Dry – as well as regular, sparkling and desert rosé, and India’s first Pinot Noir Rosé. Tours and wine tastings run once an hour.

The Hidden Gem

Grover Zampa Vineyards South of Nashik, on a dusty road to Igatpuri, India’s oldest wine producers (originally solely based in the Nandi Hills near Bengaluru) have a low-key operation for their fantastic, multi-award-winning wines. Here, ridges of vineyards tower over a sweet farmhouse. The Nashik branch was building a new restaurant and guesthouse at the time of writing, but tasting and winery tours are still on offer if you drop them a line in advance (groverzampa.in).

HOW TO

When to go Harvest starts in January and continues until mid-April so you’re more likely to see the fermentation process in action then.

Booking ahead You can generally visit the wineries without pre-booking but check their opening times; for example, Vallonne Vineyards doesn’t offer wine tasting on Thursday.

Getting there If you’re driving from Mumbai, stop at Vallonne on the way; it’s an hour south of the city. You can also get a train to Nashik Rd station.

Staying there Sula Vineyards has two extremely elegant hotels, the Source and Beyond. Vallonne’s boutique guesthouse boasts incredible lake views.

DIY Visits vs Guided Tours

Renting a car to get around Nashik’s wineries undoubtedly gives the most freedom. The wineries are all in the city’s rural surroundings and spread out far and wide (particularly Vallonne, which is almost an hour south of Nashik’s city centre). Some have fantastic restaurants that may tempt you to stay all day (Sula and Vallonne) while others are so cosy you’ll want to stay for the ambience (Grover Zampa), so it’s great to be on your own clock. Of course, this requires someone in your group to be the designated driver and miss out on the key component: wine drinking. Renting a car with a driver is pretty commonplace in India, and if you’re coming from Mumbai it’s well worth arranging a driver for a few days at a daily rate, as taxis in and around Nashik are relatively costly.

Alternatively, you can go with a boutique travel agency such as India Someday (indiasomeday.com), whose Mumbai-based team arrange tailor-made tours for every visitor. This does mean you’ll be on their schedule and have slightly less flexibility but if you’re clear when booking, they can book in as many or as few wineries as you like. They also know the qualities, pros and cons of each tasting room to make an informed itinerary for your party.

Carpentry & Chill

Learning woodwork at an idyllic eco-stay

Leave your laptop at home and put your phone away for a two-day carpentry workshop led by Adwait Kher, builder of and host at the idyllic eco-minded Utopia Farmstay (utopiafarmstay.com/workshops). An exercise in lateral thinking, problem solving and having a digital detox as much as it is about woodwork itself, stretch your creative skills to make functional pieces out of salvaged timber and teak. Kher rescued beautiful carpentry from up and down the country to build Utopia. Some pieces were rescued from 400-year-old havelis (ornately decorated homes) that were being torn down and used as firewood. Learn how to work with the rescued wood, design and upcycle pieces for your home, and get a cultural deep dive on the artisans of Nashik from Kher while you’re there. The experience costs ₹14,500 per person and includes two nights’ accommodation and healthy local meals during your stay.

THE ORIGINAL VIPASSANA IN IGATPURI

Vipassana, a strict form of meditation, was first taught by Gautama Buddha in the 6th century BCE and was reintroduced to India by teacher Satya Narayana Goenka in the 1960s. He opened the Vipassana International Academy (giri.dhamma.org) in Igatpuri, 44km south of Nashik, in 1976. While vipassana retreats are found across the world now, the centre is home to the world’s oldest and largest vipassana institution.

Goenka believed that the path to dhamma (liberation) was not faith-specific and opened accessible vipassana meditation centres globally – all are free to attend – that host an incredibly disciplined 10-day program for beginners.

BEST PLACES TO EAT IN NASHIK

Malaka Spice: Savour the rich flavours of Southeast Asian fusion at this excellent restaurant at Vallonne Vineyards, with a great view. 11am-10.30pm ₹₹

Baracco Multi-Cuisine: With a menu of spicy Indo-Chinese delights, it’s the ambience that’s the real star here – a lovely setting amid farms and vineyards. 11am-11.30pm ₹₹

Tales & Spirits Bistro: A picturesque garden setting with freshly rolled sushi, backed up by a great menu of Mughlai and North Indian fare. noon-12.30am ₹₹

Budha Halwai: This old-school snack bar has been making their famously good jalebi for 100 years. They are a must try, along with a samosa or two. 8.30am-9pm ₹

Konkan Coast

UNSPOILT BEACHES | HIDDEN HISTORIES | HEAVENLY SUNSETS

The most popular spot on the Konkan Coast, Alibag has witnessed a boom in development over the past few years, with sumptuous villas popping up for Mumbai’s wealthy and seeing the town become known as the Hamptons of India. The further south you roam, though, the more rural the scene becomes, with bull-drawn carriages, small fishing villages and local markets dotting the coast road. The forts that punctuate the land and sea hint at its interesting history: Maharastran, Portuguese and Siddi empires all rose and fell here. But it was the Koli people, the earliest people to reside in Mumbai, who lived here first. Beyond Alibag there are great historical hamlets to check out at Revdanda, Murud-Janjira and Ratnagiri, as well as the seaside resort and temple at Ganpatipule.

GETTING AROUND

The quickest way to get to the Konkan Coast is via the M2M Ferry or speedboat service from Mumbai to the Mandwa Ferry Terminal just north of Alibag. If you’ve arrived on foot, you’ll need an autorickshaw driver, which costs ₹3500 to ₹4000 for the day. Mopeds (aka two-wheelers) are available for around ₹700 a day but be sure to have your international driver’s licence handy as the local police do pull foreign tourists over.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Murud-Janjira Fort

SIGHTS

2   Shree Ganpatipule Mandir

3   Thibaw Palace

SLEEPING

4   Bohemyan Blue

5   Coastal Heritage

6   Divine Vista

EATING

7   Buono Pizzeria

8   Kiki’s Restobar

9   Mayoor Bakery

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

10   Boardwalk by Flamboyante

11   Buddha Cafe

Eskemo Icecream Shop (see 3)

12   The Deli

TOP TIP

As the Konkan Coast is accustomed to domestic tourism, most of the accommodation uses local booking platform Goibibo (goibibo.com). Only accessible from within India, the website is a good place to browse the homestays and villas.

Alibag’s Historical Layer Cake

Discover subtle sights worth seeing

Most visitors hit Alibag to unwind, renting private villas or staying in villas of their local friends. The hamlet is known as Mumbai’s answer to the Hamptons for a reason. But if you get itchy feet or are just plain curious about the rich history of the area, hop in an autorickshaw for the day and bump along the coast to one of the sights. The Konkani people have been fishing off the shores for thousands of years (and were the first occupants of Mumbai before international colonisers stomped in) so it’s no surprise that fishing is still a huge part of local life here. You can visit Varsoli Jetty, on the creek just north of Varsoli Beach to smell the freshly caught haul of the day and negotiate for something to barbecue or grill. In Alibag centre, the Magen Aboth Synagogue is tucked away down a side street (blink and you’ll miss it). The area has had a Jewish community for 2000 years and the name Alibag comes from Hebrew. South of the town centre there are two huge Portuguese-era 1530s land fortresses, Korlai and Revdanda, guarding the estuary of the Kundalika River. Revdanda is particularly beautiful, with an eerie overgrown Dominican monastery. To find it, hunt through the palm groves before emerging onto the quiet sandy beach. Both are free to enter.

MIND YOUR BEACH ETIQUETTE

The Konkan Coast might be just north of Goa and look and feel rather like its southern neighbour, but please remember, Goa this is not. Local tourists flock to Varsoli, Alibag, Kashid and Ganpatipule beaches, to name just a few along this sprawling coastline – and wearing a bikini or swimming trunks is not socially acceptable. Indeed most locals wear waterproof clothes (or T-shirts) to swim in the sea, and it’s polite to do the same. A visit to one of these beaches is a vibrant rather than relaxing affair, with camels and quad bikes patrolling the sands. Cafes line the shore, selling iconic Maggi noodles, which are a must-try.

BEST PLACES TO EAT IN ALIBAG

Mayoor Bakery: Grab your takeaway fodder here. Fresh bread, as well as rolls, pastries and cakes will set you right for a picnic. 7am-8pm Mon-Sat ₹

Kiki’s Restobar: A bijou spot with boho decor near the jetty, serving Indian and European favourites – don’t miss the butter chicken and good mojitos. 8.30am-10.30pm ₹₹

Buono Pizzeria: Great sourdough pizzas. The menu also includes spaghetti, risottos and salads. Don’t miss the burrata margherita. 11am-11pm Wed-Mon ₹₹

Bohemyan Blue: The resort’s gorgeous garden cafe with a menu of organic local produce, including delicious fresh thalis. 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun ₹₹

Take to the Seas

Sailing and more in Alibag

You don’t have to be one of the jetset to enjoy the yacht life in Alibag. The team at Aquasail 360 (aquasailindia.com) in Mandwa (just by the ferry and speedboat jetties) offer a lengthy menu of seafaring opportunities to get on the open water with the wind blowing in your hair and the sun on your skin. From family-favourite kayaking to accredited sailing lessons, the vessels and instructors are beginner-friendly. Alternatively, have one of their team sail you around while you take photos of the crystal blue waters of the Mandwa bay.

The Infallible Murud-Janjira Seafort

Visiting a mighty island fortress

A visit to the sea fortress of Murud-Janjira is not for the faint-hearted. Nerve-racking small wooden boats row you from the Janjira Fort Ferry Point over to the impenetrable island that’s open until 4.30pm every day. And if the somewhat ropey vessels aren’t enough to thrill you, disembarking at the colossal stone steps with a rocky jump surely will be. But it’s all part of the adventure for those brave enough. The reward is magnificent as you’ll soon realise, ascending the medieval steps up into the island that once housed a palace, military barracks and village, established by the Siddis who came here from Abyssinia in the 1100s and formed their own state, Janjira.

Numerous empires tried to take the island, including the Portuguese, British and local Marathi army led by Shivaji himself, but all failed. It seems hardly surprising, with walls as deep as the huge stone bricks you’ll encounter, as well as a large freshwater pond and the third-largest cannon in India. Wander the island (taking a cap, sunscreen and water if you go in the heat of the day as there’s little shade) and look out for the ornate cornicing, window frames and wall embellishments that survive today, albeit in ruins. The island and people of Janjira eventually became part of India in 1947, following the country’s independence.

RECONNECT WITH NATURE IN ALIBAG

Sunanda Gupta, owner and creator of Bohemyan Blue Resort. @bohemyanblue

We’ve been in Alibag for almost 20 years. It was a very rural and undeveloped place when we first got here, and we still prioritise nature and space. Despite all the building works, Alibag is a very relaxing place. Generally people come from Mumbai for a weekend getaway, as it’s quiet and peaceful here. We opened Bohemyan Blue in 2016 and have 10 tents on 3700 sq metres of farmland, designed to be natural and sustainable. We let birds nest here. We have frogs in the pond. We try not to impact the natural environment, but live alongside it. People value that. It’s the best thing about living here.

DRINKING ON THE KONKAN COAST

Eskemo Icecream Shop: Get delicious mango shakes, sundaes and homemade cakes at this little cafe in Ratnagiri. 10.30am-midnight Tue-Sun, 3pm-midnight Mon ₹

Boardwalk by Flamboyante: This restaurant by the Alibag ferry is a great pit stop for one of the craft beers or whisky sours. 11.30am-9.30pm ₹₹

Buddha Cafe: At a peaceful spot in Alibag overlooking Awas beach, friendly staff serve a strong coffee plus coolers, mocktails and smoothies. 9am-3pm & 5.30-10pm ₹₹

The Deli: The poshest cafe around Alibag; these guys whip up a mean affogato and take espresso seriously. Best consumed with their eggs Benedict. 9am-8pm ₹₹₹

A Palace Fit for a Deposed King

Visiting Thibaw Palace, Ratnagiri

It takes some imagination to envision the grandeur that was once present in Thibaw Palace, the scene of a house-arrest of the most royal order. As you wander through the somewhat dilapidated building, try to hear the busy footsteps of maids and butlers brought to India with the deposed King Thibaw of Burma (Myanmar) and his family, after they lost their country in 1885. It’s a sad story of a small country trying but failing to stand up to the British empire’s demands for access to local resources. When the short battle was lost, the Brits incarcerated the royal family, who lived in this once-lavish brick palace for 10 years until Thibaw’s death.

It’s free to enter and a must for fans of Amitav Ghosh’s brilliant, generations-spanning epic novel The Glass Palace. A number of chapters are set here.

An Unforgettable Hindu Temple

Shree Ganpatipule Mandir

The tiny beach resort of Ganpatipule has been attracting beach lovers for years with its warm waters and wonderful stretches of sand. Located about 375km from Mumbai, it’s a village that snoozes through much of the year, except during holidays such as Diwali or Ganesh Chaturthi, when pilgrims arrive to visit Shree Ganpatipule Mandir, the vivid red Hindu temple that houses a monolithic Ganesh (painted a bright orange), supposedly discovered 1600 years ago.

Shree Ganpatipule Mandir | RAMESH R NAIR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KONKAN’S ALPHONSO MANGOES

Across India, mango season is as eagerly awaited as the monsoon. And every self-respecting mango lover knows the Alphonso variety is ‘King of the Mangoes’ and the most expensive going. The best places to pick up these wonderfully juicy sweet fruits are on the Konkan Coast: the hamlets Devdad and Ratnagiri. During mango season (usually from March to June, depending on climate), the local grocers are proud to sell these yellow-and-red treasures. If you find yourself in Maharashtra at this time, be sure to order as many mango-flavoured treats as possible. They’ll be dominating the menus in lassi, sorbet, ice cream, mousse and cakes.

Places We Love to Stay

₹ Budget ₹₹ Midrange ₹₹₹ Top End

Pune

Bloom Hotel – Koregaon Park ₹₹ This branch of funky, yellow-interior Bloom is a solid mid-ranger, both well located and well stocked with free snacks and any amenities you need.

Hotel Ketan ₹₹ Expect excellent, old-school hospitality at this slightly retro but well-presented property with huge rooms in the heart of the university zone. Don’t skip the South Indian breakfast.

Osho Meditation Resort Guesthouse ₹₹ If you’re heading to the city to visit this ashram, staying here is easy, with offers on weekend retreats. Email the guesthouse directly to reserve.

Sunderban Resort & Spa ₹₹ This renovated art deco bungalow near the Osho resort effortlessly combines colonial-era class with boutique appeal, offering deluxe, beautifully presented, spacious rooms laden with antiques.

Lonavala

Machan ₹₹ This wonderful secluded treehouse of a hotel is a real treat, from stand-alone baths and dreamy boho rooms to guided forest bathing and stargazing.

Triose Boutique Hotel ₹₹ A chic little property on a quiet road with extremely comfy beds, elegant rooms and, most importantly, the friendliest management you’ve ever met.

Villas by Chandralok ₹₹₹ Have the quintessentially Lonavala experience by renting a villa, like locals do – there are none finer than this boutique stay, with antiques and a great little pool.

Aurangabad

Zostel Aurangabad ₹ A lovely, homey outpost of this trusted hostel chain: a large converted house with an airy atrium dining room, and chic dorms and private rooms.

Hotel Kailas ₹ Just a few minutes’ walk from the Ellora Caves entrance gate, this spot has well-presented cottages around their nice garden, and a great restaurant.

Fern Residency Hotel ₹₹ A smart stay with switched-on staff and ultra-comfy beds, this solid mid-ranger is well located for visiting Ajanta Caves.

Lemon Tree Hotel ₹₹ Large rooms with snazzy artwork at this modern four-star property with a great swimming pool and gym.

Nashik

Utopia Farmstay ₹₹ Soulful, family-run Utopia lives up to its name, with beautiful eco-conscious rooms adorned in salvaged, ornate woodwork, overlooking Gangapur reservoir.

Source at Sula ₹₹ Sula Vineyard’s on-site property is a lavish homage to 20th-century European design, with large rooms and suites and a great swimming pool.

Beyond by Sula ₹₹₹ Sula’s second, high-end property is ultra-luxurious, with modernist-inspired villas that pull out all the stops to ensure privacy and tranquillity. A five-minute drive from their winery.

Palm Springs ₹₹₹ The finest of the large hotel resorts that surround Nashik, Palm Springs boasts crisp, contemporary design and excellent hospitality.

Konkan Coast

Bohemyan Blue ₹₹ Gorgeous eco-tents – lovingly made from layer upon layer of gorgeous textiles – line the serene garden and pool where you can unwind, birdwatching in the sun.

Divine Vista ₹₹ This all-new resort in Barashivoffers sleek wooden chalets, overlooking a swish swimming pool and out to the coast and sea beyond.

Coastal Heritage ₹₹ A sweet little hotel in a great locale in Revdanda, run by extremely helpful staff. Be sure to book a room with a four-poster bed.

Goa

COASTS, CULTURE AND HERITAGE

A long coastline, swathes of green, quaint heritage spots, culture and sports, plus exciting food and drinking options. Welcome to India’s favourite holiday destination.

Palolem Beach | GEORGE TRUMPETER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

One of India’s smaller states, Goa is proof that good things come in small packages, and there’s something for everyone. History and heritage in Old Goa; adventure and water sports along beaches like Calangute, Baga, Palolem and Agonda; music and culture in the form of unique festivals and fado and mando concerts; exciting food and cheap drinks; and a relaxed vibe almost everywhere you go. Little wonder then that it remains India’s preferred destination for honeymoons and family vacations, and welcomes foreign tourists by the charter.

Goa has two distinct regions, North and South Goa, further divided into 12 talukas (sub-districts). If North Goa is the trailer, South Goa is the award-winning movie.

Historically, Goa was ruled by many kingdoms but the lasting impact came from 451 years of Portuguese rule. The architecture, language, music and food bear European influences, but with a strong Goan touch. The Portuguese Inquisition may not be talked about much, but it remains an integral part of history. Today the state prides itself on being secular. There are some fringe element, egged on by the ruling parties, which are trying to create trouble but, in reality, most Goans prefer living in harmony.

Goa continues to struggle with overtourism; in recent years especially the state has changed irrevocably. People seeking a better (and cheaper) quality of life have flocked here, resulting in a drastic change to its dining, cultural and ecological landscape.

Yet Goa remains a land of plenty, packaging the best of what India has to offer in one beautiful, exciting, adventurous bundle.

ALEKSANDAR TODOROVIC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE MAIN AREAS

ARAMBOL

Hippie lifestyle, secluded beaches.

BARDEZ

Gentrified villages, green spaces, parties and events.

CANACONA

Wildlife sanctuaries, waterfalls and rich history.

PANAJI

Historic capital, buzzing waterfront, events and festivals.

SALCETE

Preserved history, architecture and fun museums.

Find Your Way

Goa is deceptively small. Many sights, especially in the hinterlands, can only be traversed by vehicle. There are taxis and autorickshaws for hire, but renting your own bike, car or motorcycle is the easiest way to get around. Walking isn’t recommended and public transport is limited.

Plan Your Days

Goa is best sampled at leisure. The north and south regions are distinct but equally deserving of attention. Of course the beaches are beautiful, but go beyond them to get a glimpse of the rich flora and fauna, architecture and museums, and to soak in some culture.

Vagator Beach | PEPPY GRAPHICS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pressed for Time

• With just a few days find a quiet homestay or hostel in Bardez, ideally near the popular Baga-Calangute-Vagator-Candolim beach belt. Spend time soaking in the sun at Vagator Beach, a typical Goan beach with shacks, water sports, sunbeds and shops.

• Take a quick trip to the new Fort Aguada Jail Complex in Candolim then head over to Houses of Goa Museum for an introduction to Goan architecture. Stop at the Mario Gallery nearby for some curios.

• In the evening, climb the Chapora Fort for a sunset view then pub-hop along Chapora’s main street. To complete the Goan experience, eat a thali or Goan seafood at Sudan’s Bar while sipping on some feni or one of the local brews.

Seven Days to Travel Around

• Spend a few days in North Goa, setting up base at Arambol. Explore nearby beaches like Morjim, take a surf lesson, and shop for gifts and food souvenirs at Mapusa Market.

• You will need a day to travel to South Goa. On the way, make a pit stop at Old Goa to see churches and a glimpse of St Francis Xavier’s preserved body. Make another pit stop at bustling Margao to take in the sights.

• Spend the rest of your time at the Agonda and Palolem beach stretch in Canacona. Trek to the beautiful Cola and Butterfly beaches, spend time in nature at Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary and eat some oysters at Galgibaga.

If You Have More Time

• Find a home in the capital, Panaji, then explore its streets and do a walking tour of its Old Quarters. From here, you can easily reach the islands of Divar and Chorão, or tour the heritage homes in Loutolim and Chandor. Sample Goan food at the Goan Kitchen. For some beach time, pick any of Salcete’s beaches.

• In the hinterlands, Mollem Wildlife Sanctuary is a great overnight destination. Nearby are Salaulim Dam, the Buddhist Rivona Caves, Usgalimal petroglyphs and Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

Summers see high temperatures and humidity, perfect for beach days. Monsoons are majestic and offer a quieter and greener glimpse of Goa. Winter is ideal with pleasant days and cool nights.

JANUARY

The New Year offers the spirit of Christmas without its rates. Stay on to participate in the unique Three Kings Feast.

FEBRUARY

It’s a month of arts and literature events, including the popular Carnival celebrations, which includes floats, parades and music.

MARCH

The summer season brings with it cashew for urrak and feni, plus the first mangoes. Look out for the parades of the Hindu festival of Shigmo.

JUNE

Monsoon season means fewer tourists. You can go fishing/angling in smaller streams and manos, or jump in a well as part of São João celebrations.

AUGUST

The peak of the monsoon season means lush waterfalls, blooming plateaus, and a time to forage for seasonal vegetables or glimpse them on the matoli, part of the Ganesh Chaturthi festival.

NOVEMBER

Movie buffs can feast on films at the International Film Festival of India, and if it’s Diwali time, look for the narkasur effigies, which are burned to symbolise the victory of good over evil.

DECEMBER

Christmas and New Year season is peak time for music festivals and parties. It also offers the chance to see the state’s unique community cribs, and Old Man effigies burned on New Year’s Eve.

Arambol

BOHEMIAN LIFESTYLE | SWEET WATER LAKE | RELAXED VIBE

Once a small sleepy fishing village, Arambol and its namesake beach is today the heart of hippie, alternative living in Goa and the largest coastal village in Pernem Taluka. It’s usually a traveller’s first port of interest. Arambol first emerged in the 1960s as a mellow paradise for long-stayers escaping the scene at Calangute. Today it remains a place for free spirits, and there is always something spiritual happening here such as yoga, meditation, drum circles or ecstatic dancing. Things are cheap and cheerful, with accommodation in little huts and rooms clinging to the cliff sides, though the main beach is now an uninterrupted string of beach shacks. The beach itself is gently curved and safe for swimming but it gets crowded. A short walk around the northern headland brings you to a shallow sweet water lake and its many banyan trees – one of which allegedly was a meditating spot for The Beatles.

GETTING AROUND

Arambol is connected by bus to Mapusa, Panaji and Pernem. The simplest way to explore the village and soak up its atmosphere is on two wheels – most homestays and hotels can help with renting cycles and bikes. It’s easier to park a two-wheeler, especially close to the beach. Some inner roads are narrow and crowded, with stalls spilling onto the street, but for the most part, it is a pretty drive through streets canopied with trees and quiet neighbourhoods.

SIGHTS

1   Sweet Lake, Paliem

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

2   Goa Drum Circle

3   Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre

4   Raj Yoga School

5   Yoga Village

SLEEPING

6   ATS All Terrain Stay

7   Happy Panda

8   Melba Beach Resort By Maitree

9   Veda5 Wellness Retreat & Spa

EATING

10   Bodhi Greens

Garden of Dreams (see 10)

11   Shantaram

12   Shimon Falafel

ENTERTAINMENT

13   Shunya Wellness

TOP TIP

Arambol is home to a sizeable Russian crowd, as reflected in signage and restaurant menus. You will find Russian food available at select restaurants, and many stall vendors speak the language too.

Lake of Dreams

Walk to Sweet Lake, Paliem

One of Arambol’s biggest attractions is the sweet freshwater lake in Paliem, a short distance from Arambol Beach, to the north. Locals call it Vagkolam because, once upon a time, the forest nearby housed vagh (tigers). The half-hour trek to the lake involves walking around a hill and passing through a covered section containing an alley of stalls, restaurants and accommodation options. Here you can pick up musical instruments, clothes, bags, chillums, jewellery, gemstones and other knickknacks. Bargaining is expected; don’t be surprised if vendors speak your language. At the end of this shopping street, step down to the Kalacha beach and the lake is around the corner. The sweet water lake – small, shallow and flanked by hills – gets its water from a spring. Part of the lake is now private property but there’s a small stretch open to visitors. A visit in the late afternoon will give you time to swim, catch the sunset and end with a meal at one of the beach-facing restaurants.

The Bohemian Life

Live like a hippie

The hippie movement of the 1960s and ’70s has made Arambol a favoured destination for those seeking alternative lifestyles. Today you can find daily activities and events to help fuel these lifestyles. Look for flyers and posters at shacks and cafes and pasted on doors.

Start your day with drop-in yoga classes at Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre (hiyogacentre.com, November to March), Yoga Village (yogavillage.in) or Raj Yoga School (rajyogaschool.com). Avail a different kind of meditation at Jungle Dance Double Dutch (instagram.com/jungledancedoubledutch), a performance venue and cafe deep in a jungle. It’s a space known for its movement arts and you can attend yoga and dance classes, or flow to the rhythm of ecstatic dance. Nearby is Shunya Wellness (instagram.com/shunyawellness), which has a cafe, accommodation, and an outdoor event space under a banyan tree. Go here for ecstatic dance nights, and weekly markets, vocal classes and nunchaku workshops. At the beach, Goa Drum Circle (instagram.com/goadrumcircle) conducts regular drum circles, and djembe classes in the evening.

EATING IN ARAMBOL: VEGAN & VEGETARIAN

Shimon Falafel: Popular Lebanese food spot known for its falafels, large portions and vegan options. 9am-12.30am ₹

Shantaram: A raw vegan cafe and shop with an open rooftop space. 9am-6pm Wed-Mon ₹

Garden of Dreams: Vegetarian garden cafe with a swimming pool. Healthy food and drinks, coffee and raw vegan desserts. 9.30am-6pm ₹₹

Bodhi Greens: Vegan cafe serving Buddha bowls, thalis and vegan sushi. 11am-9.30pm ₹₹

Beyond Arambol

Morjim and surroundings: go beach-hopping, see a turtle nesting site and ride a wave.

Away from the coast, the hinterlands of Pernem Taluka are pockets of calm, where idyllic villages reward those who venture away from Arambol. Along the coast are a number of quiet, beautiful beaches – Morjim is the nesting site for endangered olive ridley turtles; Ashwem is home to surf schools and clubs; and in Mandrem, yoga is a popular activity. Go further north and there’s Fort Tiracol, now a heritage hotel but open to those seeking to explore the ruins of the fort and its chapel. Nearby is Querim Beach, a secluded beach ideal for picnics.

GETTING AROUND

Exploring the villages and towns in Pernem requires your own two wheels, which is the quickest and most efficient way of moving around. There are buses to main villages but the frequency is low and there are delays.

Morjim TIME FROM ARAMBOL: 15 MINS

Learn About olive ridley turtles

Morjim Beach (or Turtle Beach) is a nesting site for olive ridley turtles, an endangered species on the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) Red list. Every year, from October to April, these turtles come to shore to nest, and some weeks after, the hatchlings head back to sea. The latter is a mesmerising sight, and you can see it only by chance. The Forest Department monitors the whole process, and while they do not stop people from watching the turtles, you cannot go too close or bother them. Morjim Beach has a turtle nesting site as you enter, right near the parking lot, where you can see the nesting pits, and read more about the species and the guidelines to follow in case you spot them. Morjim is also a great spot for a swim, and for catching the sunset.

Turtle nest enclosure, Morjim | GREG ELMS/LONELY PLANET ©

MORE NESTING SITES

There are three well-known nesting sites for olive ridley turtles in Goa. As well as Morjim, there are Galgibaga and Agonda beaches in the south.

EATING AROUND ARAMBOL: GLOBAL FARE

Burger Factory: Popular chain known for its gourmet burgers. It’s located on the beach in Morjim. 1-10pm Tue-Sun ₹

La Plage: Hip beach shack in Ashwem serving French food. 10.30am-10pm ₹₹

Rice Mill: Old rice mill turned into a cosy cafe and jazz bar in Morjim, offering international and Goan food. 9.30am-11pm Wed-Mon ₹₹

Verandah Goa: Hillside restaurant in Mandrem doing globally inspired cuisine. A speakeasy Gin Joint too. noon-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun ₹₹₹

Ride the waves

Surfing is an increasingly popular sport in Goa, aided by a thriving surfing community and surf schools. Surf instructors will tell you that Goa is ideal for surfing because it has waves for every level of surfer, and waters that are gentle enough for beginners. Morjim – as well as nearby Mandrem and Ashwem beaches – is replete with surf schools offering beginner classes and immersive courses for children and adults, and also renting out surfboards. Reach out to Octopus Surf School in Morjim, or Banana Surf School, Jack’s Surf School, Samudra Surf School and Swell Cats Surf Club in Ashwem, among others. Classes happen through the year (except during the monsoons). Also keep an eye out for the annual Goa Surf Festival (September/October).

GOA’S VILLAGE FESTIVALS

Priyanka Phadte Naik, a teacher documenting Goan festivals, folk life and practices, shares a few local festivals. @priyanka.phadte.naik

Chorutsav A festival of repentance; villagers recreate a legendary story of the killing of four innocents. People bury their whole body and pray for forgiveness.

Dinya Jatra A bachelorhood festival where young men perform a dance with decorated sticks, in front of a shrine.

Sangodutsav A procession of canoes along Cumbarjua Canal, depicting mythological scenes, Goan traditions and social issues.

Karavlyo Boys dress up as women and are taken from house to house, as it is believed that their presence brings prosperity. The festival is meant to respect women and their sacrifices.

Chikal Kalo A mud festival celebrating Lord Krishna’s childhood. Men and boys of Marcel village re-enact the games he played, in mud, accompanied by music.

Bardez

BEACHES | PARTY SPOTS | GREEN SPACES

Bardez is Goa’s most happening address and the most vibrant of the other 12 talukas, offering a microcosm of the state as a tourist destination. People come here for the sun, sand, surf, water sports, all-night parties, hipster cafes and co-working spaces, exciting and innovative food, local and flea markets, and every kind of entertainment. But while straddling the comforts of modernity, it also holds on to its history.

The coast has a long stretch of popular beaches like Vagator, Anjuna, Chapora, Calangute and Baga. Their surrounding villages and towns are where people seek entertainment, in the form of food, parties and community activities. Away from the hubbub, there are plateaus of green, historic forts and churches, quiet backwaters for kayaking or fishing, birdwatching sites, and non-gentrified villages for those seeking some susegaad. In recent years Goa’s culinary buzz has been centred here, with exciting dining and drinking opportunities cropping up frequently. You will never be bored in Bardez.

GETTING AROUND

Mapusa is the main city and is well connected by bus to most surrounding villages and nearby talukas. This is a tourist-friendly taluka and there are autorickshaws, taxis and pilots available at the bus stand in Mapusa, at the main beaches and at village junctions. These vehicles don’t run by meter, so agree on a price beforehand. Most of the outstation buses stop here, as do buses to both of Goa’s airports.

SIGHTS

1   All About Alcohol Museum

2   Anjuna Beach

3   Baga Beach

4   Calangute Beach

5   Candolim Beach

6   Chapora Fort

7   Fort Aguada Jail

8   Museum of Goa

9   Ozran Beach

10   Sinquerim Beach

11   St Lawrence Church

12   Vagator Beach

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

13   Dolphin Point

SLEEPING

14   Ahilya by the Sea

15   Banyan Soul

16   Bate Papo

17   Beachside Hostel

18   Cavala Seaside Resort

19   Funky Monkey

20   Mansionhaus

21   Mojigao

22   Nilaya Hermitage

23   Orchard Manor

24   Parijaat Goa

25   Park Calangute

26   Storii by ITC Hotels Shanti Morada

27   Taj Fort Aguada Resort & Spa

28   Westin Goa

29   W Goa

30   Wildflower Villas

EATING

31   Anand Bar Seafood Restaurant

32   Artjuna Cafe

33   Baba Au Rhum

34   Barefoot Goa

35   Bean Me Up

36   Bhatti Village

37   Bloom & Brew

38   Cafe Chocolatti

39   Caravela Cafe & Bistro

40   Eva Cafe

41   Infantaria

42   Kefi

43   Smoke

44   Souza Lobo

45   Vinayak Family Restaurant

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

46   BS Bar

47   Cafe Lilliput

48   Cafe Mambo

49   Cajy Bar

50   Darling’s Bar

51   Hideaway Cafe & Bar

52   HillTop

53   House of Chapora

54   LPK Waterfront Club

55   Pablo’s

56   Paulo’s Antique Bar

57   Shiva Valley

58   SinQ

Sudan’s Bar (see 50)

ENTERTAINMENT

59   Offbeat Goa

SHOPPING

Goa Collective Bazaar (see 52)

60   Literati Bookshop & Cafe

TOP TIP

To keep abreast of exciting events, especially those linked to culture and sustainability, follow Offbeat Goa (instagram.com/offbeatgoa) on Instagram. They run a thrift shop, cafe and a Sunday vegan community market, New Earth Gathering, and share a regularly updated calendar of events.

Party at a Market

Shop at Goa Collective Bazaar

The Goa Collective Bazaar (4pm-1am Friday November to April; ₹100) in Vagator is a weekly open-air night market with small, curated boutique spaces showcasing customised products, along with a global food court and bar. There’s always live entertainment, with music or poetry, fire shows and dance workshops. Expect regular games and activities for children too. It’s located close to Ozran Beach at HillTop, an initiative by the family-run HillTop Goa which started as a small restaurant before turning into a destination known for its trance parties and music gigs.

Charming Chapora

Seaside exploration

Standing guard over the mouth of the Chapora River, the 17th-century Chapora Fort was once a strategic military outpost for the Portuguese. Today it bears few remnants of its military past, just a crumble of picturesque ruins, but the climb up to the fort is worth it for the bird’s-eye view of the nearby beaches, including the neighbouring Vagator, especially at sunset. The route from the parking area to the bottom of the fort is dotted with stalls selling snacks, drinks and trinkets.

Once the sun has set, explore Chapora’s lively main street, which is chockfull with quirky bars and places to eat with tables right on the street. Start your pub-hop at Paulo’s Antique Bar, which plays vintage rock and is papered with old posters of musicians. Nearby, Darling’s Bar has a pool table and is known for its pizzas, while Sudan’s Bar serves urrak (a milder version of feni; in season) and fresh seafood. For more grub options, there’s Smoke with its stellar smoked meats, and stalls selling momos (dumplings), shawarma and Maggi noodles. Finish your night by dancing to techno and trance at House of Chapora, down by the beach.

Vagator beach from Chapora Fort | BIJU THANKACHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BEST PARTY PLACES IN BARDEZ

Cafe Mambo: Charming nightclub close to Baga Beach with open-air lounge and themed nights.

SinQ: Nightclub and poolside lounge in Candolim with an outdoor bar, private cabanas and guest DJs.

LPK Waterfront Club: Luxury nightclub by the Nerul River that plays Bollywood music and offers unlimited drinks.

Cafe Lilliput: A shack on Anjuna Beach with stunning sunset views and eclectic playlists.

Shiva Valley: At the southern end of Anjuna Beach, this beach-facing place is renowned for its trance parties especially during the Mahashivratri Festival (February or March).

DRINKING IN BARDEZ: LOCAL FAVOURITES

Cajy Bar: Family-run bar and local hangout in Arpora, serving meaty Goan snacks and straight drinks. 6pm-midnight Wed-Mon

Peter Tavern: A cosy bar in Ucassaim doing snacky bites with local spirits, and hosting regular events. 7-11pm Tue-Sun

Pablo’s: A neighbourhood bar in Anjuna serving exciting cocktails and organising bar takeovers. 5-11pm Wed-Mon

Hideaway Cafe & Bar: A hip cocktail bar and performance space in Vagator with good food. noon-3.30pm & 7pm-1am Wed-Mon

A Good Bargain

Visit Mapusa’s Friday market

Mapusa Market is Goa’s oldest public market and open through the week. On Fridays in particular you will find people from across the state selling their wares. It’s a day of noise and activity and offers the chance to immerse yourself in local life. The market has different sections catering to earthenware, woven products, plants and cheap clothes, besides the usual produce sections. You can pick up food souvenirs here; look for women in saris, with flowers in their hair, selling fresh produce, strings of choriz (Goa sausages), bottles of vinegar, dried fish, and fruit and vegetables from their gardens. Be prepared to haggle.

Mapusa Market | ARNOLD O. A. PINTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A Village Feast

Eat a home-cooked meal

In the picturesque village of Camurlim, a few kilometres from Mapusa, home chef Shubhra Shankwalker (instagram.com/goafromhome; buffet ₹3000) serves guests on the balcony of a small farmhouse close to the river. Surrounded by the sounds of birds and rustling of trees, you’ll be treated to an elaborate buffet of Gaud Saraswat Brahmin (GSB) food. Shubhra sources the produce, preps, cooks and serves the food herself, all the while talking about the cuisine and sharing information about ingredients and recipes. Skip your breakfast because Shubhra’s lunch will be long and leisurely, with at least 10 courses. Expect decadent curries, fish treated a few different ways, seasonal vegetables, dainty pickles and chutneys, and dishes abundant in coconut, rice, kokum, local chillies and spices.

GOA’S HIPPIE CULTURE

In the 1960s and ’70s, all roads led to Goa, especially for the hippies from Europe and the US. It was ideal, blessed with untarnished natural beauty, pristine beaches, welcoming locals and drugs freely available. It was also cheap. Those who came chose two main spots to settle down, Anjuna and Morjim, where they started flea markets, shacks and soup kitchens, and organised wild, all-night full moon parties. They believed in integration, with the community and the environment, and are credited with advancing Goa as a beach destination. At the same time, they could be held responsible for turning Goa into a party destination, and for the proliferation of drugs. There are fewer hippies today but legends of those times, and some of the characters, still circulate across Goa.

EATING AROUND MAPUSA: THALI JOINTS

Spice Goa: Family restaurant with wholesome thalis, fresh fish and fusion seafood dishes. 11.30am-4pm & 7-11pm ₹

Vinayak Family Restaurant: A popular place in Assagao known for its Goan seafood and generous portions. noon-4pm & 7-11pm Fri-Wed ₹

Anand Bar Seafood Restaurant: This busy tourist favourite in Anjuna does thalis, curries and non-fish dishes. 12.30-4.30pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun ₹

Mhambrey Bar: Tiny laid-back family-run space by the river in Aldona serving no-frills dishes. 11am-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun ₹

Lush Highlands

Tour the Succour Plateau

A few minutes away from Porvorim, the laterite plateau in Succour (or Socorro) has rich biodiversity offering a unique habitat for plants, flowers, insects and birds. Go on a tour of the grassland, preferably early morning or evening, for the best experience. You’ll look closely at the depressions in the rocks and find unique microhabitats. Carry your binoculars as you will spot many of the 238 recorded bird species here, including bulbuls, barbets, purple sunbirds and starlings. You may even spot a wild boar or jackal. Though dry for most of the year, in the monsoon the plateau turns green with plants and flowers in full bloom. Enter the plateau from Ucassaim for the best route.

Out at Sea

Spot some dolphins

The waters off Sinquerim and Candolim beaches are where you are most likely to spot dolphins. Numerous tour operators offer rides, but look for a main jetty in Sinquerim, called Dolphin Point, on the road heading to Fort Aguada. Most tours head out on a large boat for an hour (₹300). While spotting dolphins is the main activity, you’ll also get to enjoy views of the palm-fringed coast, fishers at work, the Sinquerim’s imposing St Lawrence Church on the hill, a magnificent sea-facing house on the mountain and the Fort Aguada Jail.

Beach Bums

Get some sun

The beaches in Goa’s northern belt are among the liveliest and most popular in the state. Start by visiting the huge Anjuna Beach, an almost 2km stretch of sand that was once a hippie haven; today it’s home to many beach shacks. Further north is Vagator’s Ozran Beach, or Little Vagator, beloved by locals and known for a rock carving of Lord Shiva. Vagator Beach is a great sunset spot, especially when viewed from the restaurants on the hillside.

South of Anjuna are the two most popular (and crowded) beaches: Baga and Calangute. From there you can walk the coast south to Candolim, and to the relatively quieter and cleaner Sinquerim. Every beach has shacks and sunbeds and offers water-sport activities. Expect crowds and much activity.

BEST NATURE-FRIENDLY GUIDES IN GOA

Terra Conscious: On the ocean biodiversity experience you’ll learn about the Indian Ocean humpback dolphin while respecting marine wildlife-watching guidelines.

B:Live: A travel tech platform conducting immersive e-bike tours focusing on Goan life and culture, through islands, streets, villages and backwaters.

Adventure Breaks: Outdoor sports company doing land- and ocean-based activities including ocean treks, rock climbing, sea cave exploration and coasteering.

Avocet & Peregrine: Birding company organising guided day trips, tours and birding stays at birding hotspots in the state.

Khoj-aao! Adventures: Tour company curating off-beat experiences linked to nature and adventure like overnight camping, educational and nature trails.

Architecture Rocks

Learn about Goa’s houses

On a traffic island at the bottom of a steep slope near Torda Creek sits the boat-shaped Houses of Goa Museum (museumhousesofgoa.com; admission ₹300). Designed by architect Gerard da Cunha, it boasts a sloping roof, a facade covered with plants, and three floors connected by a spiral staircase. Inside, you can find information about Goa’s unique architectural history, particularly the confluence of Indian and Portuguese styles. There are 3D models of still-standing historic houses, photos, paintings, info boards and elements from old houses like balustrades, furniture and a pair of wooden hands once used as picture frames. Downstairs is a small cafeteria and souvenir shop. The two nearby schools, also built by de Cunha, feature an eco-friendly construction and architecture designed for children (tours run at 4pm).

If you have time, cross the road and visit the Mario Gallery (mariodemiranda.com), where you can shop for products featuring the work of the late Goan cartoonist, Mario Miranda.

River View

Explore Penha de França’s church

Penha de França is a small town by the Mandovi River, just across the bridge from Panaji. It gets its name from the imposing white church on the riverfront, Nossa Senhora da Penha de França. This stunning 16th-century church overlooks the confluence of the Mapusa and Mandovi Rivers, making it a dream destination for weddings (there’s a hall next door) and photo shoots. Wander around the garden then sit on the church steps or the parapet to enjoy the views of the islands of Chorão and Divar, and Ribandar village. The church is open in the morning for services, so if you’re lucky you will get to see the restored interiors with gilded gold plating on the altar, wood carvings and paintings. The acoustics here are marvellous – just try singing a line or two.

CARTOONIST MARIO MIRANDA

Mario Miranda (1926–2011) was an artist and painter, widely regarded for his vibrant, detailed and witty caricatures, especially of Goan life and culture. A beloved social cartoonist, his work is still widely used in Goa. Born in Daman, he worked as a cartoonist with newspapers in Mumbai, and shuttled between the city and Goa. His colourful characters and highly detailed cartoons showcased the state in all its chaotic, crazy glory. Mario also did illustrations and fine art, working with nib pen and ink, charcoal and colour. He won many awards for his work, and has illustrated and written several books. After his death, his family established the Mario Gallery to sell his work; there are five across Goa.

DRINKING IN BARDEZ: CAFES

Caravela Cafe & Bistro: Coffee shop in Candolim serving all-day breakfast, snacks, Goan food and its own single estate coffee. 9am-8.30pm

Barefoot Goa: A community space in Parra with a cafe and bar, performance space and workspace. 9am-9pm Mon-Sat

Artjuna@Mojigao: Trendy Anjuna spot cooking up Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes, plus cocktails post-lunch. 7.30am-10.30pm

Bean Me Up: An outdoor vegan restaurant in Vagator that has a B&B, yoga space and boutique. 9am-11pm

Art Gazing

Wander around Museum of Goa

You’ve to go deep into Pilerne Industrial Estate, past service centres and chemical plants, to find Museum of Goa (MOG; museumofgoa.com; admission ₹300) – but it’s worth it. A contemporary art space created by artist Subodh Kerkar, it has art spread across three floors, a terrace and a sculpture garden. Much of the art is Subodh’s own work – paintings and sculptures made using cowrie shells, driftwood and fibreglass. One section has artwork by his father, Chandrakant Kerkar, whose paintings are a visual record of old Goan life. The gallery hosts temporary exhibitions, some of which showcase Goa and its history. MOG also organises workshops, art courses, musical performances and residencies, and runs a weekly informative lecture series called MOG Sundays.

Arrested Development

Walk around a decommissioned prison

Goa’s history, particularly the state’s fight for liberation from colonial Portuguese rule, is on view at the family-friendly Fort Aguada Jail (₹200).

The fort was constructed in 1612 to guard against the Dutch and contained the Aguada Central Jail. A freshwater spring within the fort provided water to ships coming from Europe, thus giving the fort its name: Aguada (meaning watery in Portuguese). Many Goan freedom fighters were imprisoned here.

The decommissioned 17th-century prison complex looks out onto the Mandovi River and houses interactive museums that touch on Goa’s rich biodiversity, its freedom struggle, festivals and prehistoric findings. The complex also hosts flea markets and concerts.

You can also tour the space on your own, scanning helpfully placed QR codes for information. Alternatively, the Make it Happen (makeithappen.co.in; one-hour tour ₹300) tour group organises tours that show you the highlights and take you to some hidden rooms closed to the general public.

Aguada Fort Jail | LLOYD VAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE GENTRIFICATION OF ASSAGAO

Widely considered the trendiest and most happening destination in Goa, Assagao was once a quiet, beautiful village. It attracted attention because of its proximity to Mapusa, the nearest city, and the happening tourist belt of Calangute-Baga-Chapora-Candolim. Over the years, this attention has resulted in a changed village, including damage to its green cover, and today it is a prime example of the gentrification of Goan villages. Some jokingly call it Assa-Gurgaon, a reference to the Delhi and Gurgaon folks buying property here. Today Assagao is a trendy food destination, with restaurants, bars and coffee shops popping up every week – but it came at a cost.

DRINKING IN BARDEZ: CAFES

Baba Au Rhum: Popular French cafe and pizzeria in Anjuna serving excellent baked goods and healthy eats. 9am-9pm Thu-Tue

Kefi: Outdoor cafe and bistro in Assagao with Mediterranean food on the menu. 24hr

Cafe Chocolatti: A garden cafe and bakery in Candolim with homemade desserts, baked goods and light meals. 9am-7pm Wed-Mon

Eva Cafe: A beachside cafe in Anjuna with a clean eating menu and evening drinks. 9am-8pm

An Intoxicating Experience

Visit a museum all about alcohol

On a bustling road in Candolim sits businessman Nandan Kudchadkar’s All About Alcohol Museum (instagram.com/alcoholmuseum; 11am to 9pm; ₹300), which features his impressive collection of artefacts linked to alcohol. You can explore the museum on a guided tour or on your own. Guided tours last an hour and include details of some standout products, such as a moustache mug with a moustache guard, the world’s tallest shot glass, bottled showpieces and vintage cashew distillation equipment. The museum’s pride is feni (Goan liquor distilled from coconut milk or cashews); you can learn about its distillation, view a rustic still, visit a room stacked with garrafões (handblown glass bottles) containing feni from the family farm, and participate in a tasting at a makeshift taverna.

All About Alcohol Museum | NIAK STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

QUEER-FRIENDLY GOA

Avril Stormy Unger (Chutney Mary) is a multi-disciplinary artist. She shares a list of queer-friendly spaces and resources in North Goa.

Qrave is a queer party, which takes place at different venues and centres queer DJs. Jadibooty is a queer night open to queer singer-songwriters and poets.

For cafes, there’s Barefoot Goa in Parra, BS Bar and Bloom & Brew in Anjuna, which has a drag brunch. Banyan Soul in Anjuna is queer-friendly accommodation.

Community-specific groups include Queen Kinara, which organises events and parties; A Rainbow Collective, which puts on drag and ballroom shows and dating events; and The Audacity Collective, which does events that aren’t only party-centric, such as reading and listening circles. There’s also Queerly Goa (instagram.com/queerly_goa).

EATING IN BARDEZ: GOAN FAVOURITES

Bhatti Village: Family-run restaurant in Nerul serving Goan seafood. A rare place with ox tongue on the menu. noon-2.30pm & 6.30-11pm ₹

Infantaria: Calangute landmark best known for the breakfast and brunch items and baked goods. 7.30am-11pm ₹₹

Mafia Cocktail: Run by a brother and sister in Pilerne. No menu; just what’s cooked that day. Good for fish and Goan dishes. 12.30-4pm & 8-11pm ₹

Souza Lobo: Long-standing local favourite restaurant on Calangute Beach known for its Goan food and live music nights. noon-11.30pm ₹₹

Canacona

WILDLIFE SANCTUARIES | SEASONAL WATERFALLS | UNIQUE BEACHES

Canacona Taluka is the southernmost part of Goa, and doesn’t feature on many travel itineraries. But those who do make the trip here will find scenic and peaceful beaches like Agonda and Palolem. One of the southernmost beaches is the picturesque Galgibaga, which is a nesting site for olive ridley turtles and a great place to eat oysters and fresh fish.

Canacona has a multitude of flora and fauna, namely centred in Goa’s second-largest wildlife sanctuary: Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary. The sanctuary has marked trails for hiking and treetop posts that overlook animals’ watering holes. History is to be found in the medieval fort Cabo de Rama, which witnessed many battles. And there are villages in the hinterlands that appear to be stuck in time. Tourism arrived late to this region, and as a result it hasn’t been ravaged by the demands of numbers, still retaining much of its natural beauty.

GETTING AROUND

Public transport infrastructure is quite sparse. There are buses to the main towns and villages, but they don’t run at night. It’s best to travel in your own vehicle, especially if you’re keen on visiting the area’s beaches and wildlife sanctuary, which can be traversed by car. The winding roads pass through thick vegetation and fields, making for a lovely drive. The roads are largely empty, but connectivity may be limited, so map your route beforehand.

SIGHTS

1   Galgibaga Beach

2   Palolem Beach

3   Patnem Beach

4   Sadolxem Bridge

5   Talpona

SLEEPING

6   Bhakti Kutir

7   Casa Galgibaga

8   Casa Jaali

9   Jungle by sturmfrei

10   Kala Bahia

11   LaLiT Golf & Spa Resort Goa

12   Mud Dauber

13   Sobit Sarovar Portico Goa

EATING

14   Cantine Indienne

Casa Jaali (see 8)

15   Mill

16   Santosh Beach Restaurant

17   Surya Beach Cafe

18   Vidushi’s Cow Corner

TOP TIP

At the northern end of Palolem Beach is a small island, Kankon (Canacona or Monkey Island), accessible during low tide. It’s ideal for a short trek and great views.

Beach Hop

Find offbeat beaches

Agonda and Palolem are two of Canacona’s most popular beaches, known for their calm waters, beach shacks, dining options and nightlife. Agonda is also a turtle-nesting site and blessed with white sand. Palolem is where you will find the most shacks and water-sport activities. Other popular beaches are Patnem, a small beach with shacks and ideal for swimming, and the serene and uncrowded Talpona.

If you’d rather something more quiet, check out two of this region’s most underrated beaches: Cola Beach and Butterfly Beach. The access to Cola Beach is rough and involves some off-roading – there are 4WDs to take you there and back (per person ₹500). It is worth the trek because where the river joins the sea you will find a freshwater lagoon; the emerald shades match the surrounding greenery.

Another unique option is Butterfly Beach, located in a secluded bay surrounded by large rocks and dense vegetation, with clear, shallow waters ideal for swimming. You can get here by boat, from Palolem or Agonda (per boat ₹3500 to ₹5000, do bargain). Boat operators will take you on a return trip, allowing around 1½ hours at the beach. Alternatively you can trek there yourself, but it will take over an hour. Carry food and water if you intend to spend a few hours there.

Seaside Aphrodisiac

Eat oysters at Galgibaga Beach

Galgibaga is a beautiful, quiet beach that runs parallel to the Galgibaga River and the two water bodies meet at the beach’s southern edge. It is empty of shacks and other structures, and is one of the nesting sites for olive ridley turtles. Another great reason to visit this beach is to eat fresh oysters. Live oysters aren’t common in Goa, and don’t feature on restaurant menus. Galgibaga, however, has two popular places known for their live oysters – Surya Beach Cafe and Santosh Beach Restaurant (November to April; per plate ₹450). The two neighbouring shacks have similar menus: lots of seafood and fish (sold whole), some international and Chinese fare, as well as oysters. The molluscs are caught every day at the river nearby, and served in the shell, with some lime and Tabasco sauce. Interestingly, the neighbours have an ongoing celebrity endorsement feud – Surya claims it is recommended by chef Gordon Ramsay, while Santosh boasts Jamie Oliver’s endorsement. Both places can also help organise kayaking and boat trips.

A Bridge with a View

Walk a narrow bridge

Just a short ride by car or bike from Palolem Beach, the bright-blue bailey Sadolxem Bridge is built over the Talpona River, connecting Canacona and Poinguinim. What makes this bridge worth seeing is its surroundings. The river is flanked on both sides by mangrove forests and coconut groves, while boats bob on the placid waters. From the bridge, you can see the Talpona River winding into lush hills. You can walk across the bridge and take photographs but make sure you do not block any oncoming vehicles. For a better, unobstructed view of the surroundings and the bridge, go down to the riverbank below it.

Sadolxem Bridge | ANURAG R MODAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ANGLING IN GOA

Samuel Almeida, founder of the Goan Friend, which runs private excursions often linked to fishing and angling, talks about the popularity of angling in Goa. @thegoanfriend

Fish has always been important to us. Traditionally, our grandfathers would go to the nearest water body and catch fish for lunch and dinner. We lost that tradition over time, but angling is now picking up among the younger crowd. People are doing it as a hobby, and the fish caught is for personal consumption only, not for sale. Angling is a calming activity; you are in a beautiful environment, away from crowds, and there’s an adrenaline rush in hooking a fish. You can find water bodies everywhere and the surrounding environment is peaceful. You can go deep-sea fishing, river fishing, forest fishing, beach fishing, live bait or spear fishing, or go fish at the manos (sluice gate) water too.

EATING IN CANACONA: OUR PICKS

Cantine Indienne: Canteen-style place in Palolem serving Tanjore and French food and thalis. 9.30am-9.30pm Tue-Sun ₹

Vidushi’s Cow Corner: A cute space in Patnem with a garden and slow-cooked Indian and Australian food. 9.30am-10pm Tue-Sun ₹

Kala Bahia: A sunset bar, restaurant and lounge in Colomb Bay serving Italian food. 11am-midnight ₹₹

Zest Cafe: Vegetarian and vegan garden cafe by the beach in Agonda. Wholesome, raw food. 8am-9pm ₹₹

Picnic in a Wildlife Sanctuary

Day spent by the dam

Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary (entry ₹100) is a stretch of dense woodland by the Goa–Karnataka border. The second-largest wildlife sanctuary in Goa, it is worth spending a day or two exploring the place and looking for sloth bears, hump-nosed pit vipers, white-bellied woodpeckers, black leopards, painted bats and Indian pangolins. There are a few hiking trails, and cars are allowed to certain points – the reception at the entrance will provide a map and mark out the trails and treetop posts, which lookout onto the watering holes frequented by the animals. Camera and car charges are extra.

An offbeat way to explore the sanctuary is on a picnic. Eco-tour agency the Local Beat (instagram.com/thelocalbeat_goa) organises a day-long picnic (₹3600) at a private plantation deep in the heart of the sanctuary. The day begins with some off-roading, including across a small stream, before reaching the cashew-heavy plantation. There, under towering coconut trees, everything is laid out with all the conveniences needed for a modern picnic, including thatched bamboo changing rooms, a small bar, a mud stove and chairs. The picnic is by a bhandara (small dam), and the tranquil waters of the river are ideal for swimming, floating (life jackets available) or rowing a makeshift raft. There’s plenty of food, fruit and feni cocktails to keep you fuelled through the day.

BEST FORTS IN GOA

Cabo de Rama Fort: A long-ruined fort in Cola village contains a chapel of St Anthony, abandoned cannons and great views of the sea.

Reis Magos Fort: Overlooking the Mandovi River, this restored fort has some jail cells, a few cannons and a watchtower.

Corjuem Fort: A small 16th-century fort located in inland Bardez and offering sweeping views of the village.

Mormugao Fort: A simple 17th-century fort with a small cross; it affords views of the harbour in front.

Tiracol Fort: The site of historic Satyagraha marches, this fort is now a heritage hotel but open to visitors interested in seeing its chapel.

EATING IN CANACONA: OUR PICKS

The Mill: Cosy cafe set in a restored rice mill. Vegetarian and vegan food and drinks. 9am-6pm Thu-Tue ₹₹

Kopi Desa: Gastro restaurant on Agonda Beach known for its modern food and infused cocktails. 8am-10.30pm ₹₹

Casa Jaali: Seaside cafe in Patnem serving wholesome, cafe-style food and juices. 7am-midnight ₹₹

La Dolce Vita: Agonda Beach restaurant dishing up homemade pastas, wood-fired pizzas and desserts. noon-4pm & 6-11pm ₹₹

Beyond Canacona

See some wildlife at a sanctuary, swim in waterfalls and cycle through the hinterlands.

There are limited options for sightseeing and activities beyond Goa’s southernmost taluka of Canacona, the exception being the Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary and its surroundings, which have many walking and hiking trails. The route to and from the sanctuary passes through small Goan villages, which may seem slightly more rustic and underdeveloped than their city counterparts, and yet are charming in their own way. Guided tours are a safe and pleasant option, offering information and local knowledge that is hard to find online. With time in hand, you can go right up to the Karnataka border, choosing between hilly areas in the east and the coast in the south.

GETTING AROUND

Being the hinterlands, it is best to travel in your own vehicle. Many of the internal roads aren’t fully developed so renting your own vehicle is ideal. Hiring a taxi can get expensive, but is preferable as local drivers will know the routes. There are buses to some villages but the frequency is limited. It’s best to mark your route out beforehand as there will likely be network issues.

Netravali TIME FROM CANACONA: 1 HR

Voyage into Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary

Spread over an area of 211-sq-km, and bound by two other sanctuaries, Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary (entry ₹100, four-wheelers ₹100) offers a wealth of reptilian, amphibian and avian life. You can purchase tickets from the Matoni and Dhargini gates.

Look out for animals like gaurs, leopards and wild boars, and the Malabar rose butterfly, which is endemic to the region. There are two all-season waterfalls here: Savri and Mainapi. Savri is closer and easier to access, while the smaller and secluded Mainapi requires a longer trek over steep, uneven terrain. Also within the sanctuary is the fascinating Budbudyanchi Tali, or bubbling lake.

The monsoon season is the best time to visit. There are limited resources and network within the forest, so carry your own food and water.

Mainapi | MATJOE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pick strawberries at Verlem Strawberry Farm

The hilly areas of Tudav and Verlem, a 12km drive winding from Netravali, are where you will find strawberry farms (₹20). The farms are run by a self-help group, mentored by a farmer from Mahabaleshwar (known for its strawberries). At the farm, there are helpers who will guide you, and explain the process of cultivation and how to pick strawberries. You can buy the berries you picked, and even some plants. It’s best to visit the farms here during the winter months, from December to March, when the berries are in season.

Cycle across the state

A unique way to explore Goa’s villages and islands, especially the lesser-known ones in the south, is by cycling through them. If you have five days to spare, tour company Cycling Zens (cyclingzens.com; ₹89,000) offers a bike-packing holiday that includes tours of islands, eating home-cooked meals, staying at boutique properties, exploration of wildlife sanctuaries (including Netravali) and visits to temples. A guide will accompany you through the journey. If there’s time, you can add other activities too, from a private meal at a farm to a sunset boat ride, at additional costs.

BEST SPICE PLANTATIONS IN GOA

Tanshikar Spice Farm: This farm (and homestay with cottages) in Neturlim grows a lot of nutmeg, follows organic practices and makes eco-friendly products.

Savoi Plantation: One of Goa’s oldest, this betel nut plantation in Ponda highlights spices and tropical fruits.

Sahakari Spice Farm: A tour under dense forest cover in Curti includes a glimpse of spices, coffee and cacao, plus a vegetarian lunch.

Pascoal Spice Village: A spice farm on a riverbank in Ponda has a nature retreat, swimming pools and organises boating activities.

Kushavati Spice Plantation: The organic spice farm by the river is a tranquil spot offering tours, lunch and the chance to buy spices.

Panaji

GOAN HISTORY | CULTURAL MONUMENTS | EXCITING EVENTS

Goa’s capital city, Panaji, deservedly features on most tourists’ radar. It offers a concise, well-packaged introduction to Goa and its culture, history, architecture, food and even current socio-economic issues. Panjim was a tiny village by the Mandovi River before Portuguese colonisers made it their capital in 1843 and gave it city status. Post-liberation, it was renamed Panaji.

The city’s historic wards offer a glimpse of the European influence on Goan architecture , the architecturally rich heritage visible in the old houses, buildings and churches. Pockets of calm can still be found in its gardens and religious institutions. There are compact museums, art galleries and bookstores too.

Today the constantly evolving city is becoming a hotspot for food, and is the base for a slew of festivals and events. As a result, many tour operators conduct cultural and food-related tours here.

GETTING AROUND

The points of interest in Panaji are quite spread out and include some inclines. Walking isn’t recommended owing to the lack of proper footpaths and constant construction. The bus stand has local buses, which are usually crowded. There’s also a taxi stand, where you can find autorickshaws and pilots. The best option is to hire a scooter or bike, taking care of the one-way streets within the city centre. There are a few demarcated zones for car parking (per hour ₹20).

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

SIGHTS

2   Abbé Faria Statue

3   Adil Shah Palace

4   Dayanand Bandodkar Statue

Goa State Museum & Secretariat Building (see 3)

5   Indian Customs & Central Excise Museum

6   Mahalaxmi Temple

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

7   Azulejos de Goa

8   Bookworm

9   Goa State Central Library

SLEEPING

10   Alfonso Guesthouse

11   Hospedaria Abrigo de Botelho

12   Hotel Fidalgo

13   Mateus

14   O Abrigo

15   Old Quarter Hostel

16   Welcom-Heritage Panjiminn

17   White Balcao

EATING

18   Cafe Bhonsle

19   Kokum Curry

20   Larder & Folk

21   Miguel’s

22   Petisco

ENTERTAINMENT

Centre for Indo-Portuguese Arts (see 7)

TRANSPORT

23   Divja Circle

24   Panaji Bus Stand

TOP TIP

The decorations at the main traffic junctions, such as at Divja Circle and Miramar Circle, are indicative of the current festival/event being celebrated in the city.

Step into History

Explore historic monuments

One of the most beloved and prettiest sights in Panaji is the majestic church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. Dating back to 1541, this pristine white Portuguese baroque-style church stands tall at the top of the hill overlooking the main square. Its defining feature is a series of zigzag stairs and it houses the second-largest bell in Goa. Nearby, at the Altinho foothill, is the Mahalaxmi Temple, built in 1819. It was the first Hindu temple built in the city after the Portuguese arrived, and is dedicated to the goddess of wealth who is considered the presiding deity of Panaji.

Beyond these religious monuments, Panaji’s history can be found in the Adil Shah Palace, the city’s oldest surviving building. The two-storey structure has a tiled roof and open balcony and now houses the Goa State Museum, a repository of objects of cultural importance from Goan history. The building is flanked by two notable statues: Goa’s first chief minister Dayanand Bandodkar, and Abbé Faria, a famous Goan son known for his pioneering work in hypnotism. A little distance away is the bright-blue Indian Customs & Central Excise Museum.

Paint a Tile

Make your own azulejo

Azulejos, or hand-painted ceramic tiles, are a distinctive feature of many old Goan homes. At Azulejos de Goa (class per person ₹1500), Orlando de Noronha teaches you how to paint these tiles and create a unique memento for yourself. The two-hour class includes an introduction to the tiles and their history, and the chance to paint two tiles of your own. He even fires them for you.

Azulejos de Goa is part of the Centre for Indo-Portuguese Arts, which Orlando runs from a section of his 200-year-old family home by the Mandovi riverfront. Here, you can buy azulejos, eat Indo-Portuguese snacks in the balcony cafe, buy some books in Portuguese, Konkani and English, or even attend a jazz, fado or mando concert on certain weekends.

Get Cultural

Seek some entertainment

Through the year, Panaji’s gardens, heritage structures, galleries and open spaces welcome exhibitions, conventions and festivals linked to art, food, culture, business, industry and more. For info on what’s happening, look out for event and festival posters across the city.

Early in the year, decorated floats and musical nights mark the Carnival festival. Similar festivities accompany the spring festival of Shigmo, a few weeks later. Culturally, there are the Goa Arts & Literature Festival (GALF) and Goa Open Arts Festival. In summer, you can explore the bounty of the treasured cashew apple at a Cashew Fest. The new Purple Festival celebrates people with disabilities. If you’re into movies, there’s the International Film Festival of India (iffigoa.org). Also look out for the multi-disciplinary Serendipity Arts Festival (serendipityartsfestival.com) in December.

GOA’S BEST LITERARY SPACES

Goa State Central Library: The oldest public library in India, in Panaji, houses two lakh books and a laboratory for book conservation.

Bookworm: A children’s library and a registered nonprofit in Panaji, which hosts activities and events and runs a travelling library.

Dogears Bookshop: An independent bookstore in Margao known for their book fairs, festivals and workshops.

Booktique Goa: An online lending library where the owner delivers books (in North Goa) via bicycle.

Literati Bookshop & Cafe: An old Goan home in Calangute houses a bookstore and cafe where you can browse, read and discuss books.

EATING IN PANAJI: OUR PICKS

Cafe Bhonsle: A century-old joint known for feeding locals breakfast and teatime snacks. Try the bhaji puri and buns. 7am-10pm ₹

Bombil: For a taste of Goan food, in a cute space decorated with murals and miniature 3D landscapes. noon-4.30pm & 7.30-10pm ₹

Kokum Curry: Goan Hindu food that is comforting, nostalgic and fish-heavy. Another outlet in Candolim. noon-4pm & 7-11pm ₹₹

Larder & Folk: Locally owned cafe and restaurant serving decadent sandwiches, breads and cookies. 9am-7pm Tue-Sun ₹₹

Padaria Prazeres: Charming yellow and blue cafe-bakery known for baked goods and pastéis de nata. 9am-6.30pm Tue-Sun ₹₹

For the Record Vinyl Bar: Restaurant, bar and music room; the menu is heavy on ferments. 12.30-3pm & 7-11pm Thu-Tue ₹₹₹

Petisco: Small plates of food with a local touch. Look out for live music and karaoke nights. noon-12.30am Tue-Sun ₹₹₹

Miguel’s: Art deco bar serving Konkan-Portuguese culinary fusion food, plated like artwork. 5-11pm Wed-Mon ₹₹₹

A Drink with History

Explore Goa’s tavernas

Tavernas are old watering holes, historic spots where people once gathered to imbibe local brews, feni and urrak, gossip and gamble. The number of tavernas are dwindling, but for a good introduction to this little-known part of Goa’s social and drinking history, take a tour with a local guide. Soul Travelling (soultravelling.in, tours ₹1500) runs A Secret Food & Tavern Trail in Panaji. The two-hour walk includes stops at some long-standing eateries for a taste of their signature snacks, and the chance to visit tavernas, learn their stories and drink something local. For a different kind of pub crawl, you can even customise your tour to include only the tavernas.

FLOATING CASINOS

Upon entering Panaji, it is hard to miss the bright lights and noise emanating from the ships bobbing in the waters of the Mandovi River. Goa’s floating casinos, focused in the Mandovi River and offering off-land gambling, have always been controversial. For domestic tourists, the casinos are the ideal destination – offering free-flowing liquor, entertainment, and the chance to gamble and win some money. For most Goans, they are an inconvenience and a scourge on the river and the city, polluting the waters with waste, light and sound. The streets in Panaji near the jetty are packed with tourists and taxis, causing traffic jams and inconveniencing residents. Most don’t obey the noise ban, and many casinos function without adequate CRZ (Coastal Regulation Zone) clearance. Despite the issues, there is unlikely to be a ban on casinos as they have significantly contributed to the state government’s coffers.

Fontainhas | LLOYD VAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EXPLORING PANAJI’S LATIN QUARTER

The pocket-sized heritage wards of São Tomé and Fontainhas, part of Panaji’s Old Quarters, offer a glimpse of Goa’s European heritage and architecture. Start your walk at the 1 Fundação Oriente, which houses an art museum behind well-preserved oyster-shell window panes. Next follow the sounds of kids playing football until you see the patterned tiles of the 2 Old Quarter Hostel. Walk down Rua 31 de Janeiro till you reach 3 Gitanjali Gallery, a modest art gallery and cultural centre. Nearby is 4 Velha Goa Galeria where you can buy handpainted azulejos. Loop back to the gallery and continue on until you reach the junction that takes you to 5 St Sebastian Chapel, a favourite with tourists for photo ops. Further along St Sebastian Rd, a clearing leads you to another wonderful photo spot – an old well with mosaic tiling and roosters on its pillars, a small shrine and colourful ‘rainbow’ steps. Proceed on the road to 6 Confeitaria 31 De Janeiro, a good pit stop for Goan snacks and bread. Continue along the street that gives the bakery its name. You will pass by colourful houses and shopfronts, with lush gardens, oyster-shell windows and roosters on tiled roofs before reaching 7 Joseph Bar, an old taverna converted into a grungy hip bar. Next hop onto Rua São Tomé. At the end of the street is the century-old 8 São Tomé Chapel. Cross the road and you’ll find the statue of prolific 9 Dr Miguel Caetano Dias sitting in a small garden. Behind it is your final stop, a heritage house, 10 Casa de Moeda, which once functioned as the Mint of Goa from 1834 to 1841.

Beyond Panaji

Get to know the city suburbs, hop between islands, visit churches and temples, and spot some birds.

If the big city of Panaji gets too much for you, escape to one of its picturesque neighbours, or explore the city’s suburbs of Taleigao, Caranzalem, Campal, Siridao, Altinho, Santa Cruz and Dona Paula. Across the causeway is the quiet village of Ribandar, which is the starting point for the islands of Divar and Chorão, distilled but picturesque pockets of Goan village life. The most prominent place outside Panaji, with an equally rich history, is Old Goa. The former Portuguese capital of the region, it houses a small group of churches, chapels and other protected monuments, some of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Further west lies the taluka of Ponda, which is considered to be the Hindu (and sometimes cultural) heart of the state, and is known for its many spice plantations.

Places

Ribandar

Old Goa

Carambolim

Chorão

Divar

Dona Paula

GETTING AROUND

The suburbs are accessible by bus. From Panaji bus stand direct buses to Old Goa stop at the Divar and Chorão ferry points in Ribandar. From here, you can find regular ferries to the islands. To explore the islands, especially Divar, it’s best to hire your own vehicle as all the main interest points are spread out. Ponda is accessible by bus but it’s easier to move around by car. You can hire taxis or autorickshaws at the Panaji bus stand.

Ribandar TIME FROM PANAJI: 10 MINS

Walk through salt pans

The quiet village of Ribandar lies between Panaji and Old Goa, along the Mandovi River. As you leave Panaji and move alongside the river, turn right till you see mountains of white glistening in the sun. These are one of the few surviving salt pans in the state, and you can explore them, preferably under the guidance of architect Talullah D’Silva (instagram.com/tallulahdsilva; ₹500), who conducts regular walks through them. You will start by learning about the khazan land system and how it benefits both people and nature, then walk through the pans to get a better understanding of their unique architecture and how the salt is farmed and collected. At the end, you can taste some of the salt and buy yourself some. The tour includes breakfast.

Ribandar salt pans | REALITYIMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Old Goa TIME FROM PANAJI: 30 MINS

Visit a World Heritage Site

Pilgrim or not, a visit to Velha Goa, or Old Goa, is a must. This is one of the most beautiful parts of the state, awash in historical and religious monuments, and vast swathes of green. Start your tour at the majestic baroque church, Basilica de Bom Jesus, which contains the remains of Goencho Saib, Goa’s patron saint, St Francis Xavier. An exposition of these sacred relics takes place every 10 years. Across the road is Sé Cathedral, which contains a miraculous cross, where a vision of Jesus is said to have appeared in 1919. A walk through the compound takes you to the Chapel of St Catherine and the Church of St Francis of Assisi. Nearby is the Church of St Cajetan, modelled on the Basilica of St Peter in Rome and built in Corinthian style. Walk through the Ruins of the Church of St Augustine, admiring the only surviving part – a laterite bell tower – of what was the largest church complex of the time. End your visit by hiking up a hill to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Mount, which overlooks the Mandovi River and nearby islands and offers the best view of Old Goa.

Spend a day at the museum

In the Holy Hill section of Old Goa, a short walk away from the Ruins of the Church of St Augustine, is a stunning convent and church. The 17th-century Convent of Santa Monica houses the Museum of Christian Art (museumofchristianart.com; ₹100), a repository of five centuries of Indo-Portuguese art gathered from Goan churches and private collections. It’s a small museum, with two floors, and contains the renovated Church of the Weeping Cross. You can book a guided tour (₹300) or wander around on your own.

Things to look out for include a model of St Francis Xavier’s tomb, 17th-century altar cards, intricately embroidered vestments, a 1.2m pelican tabernacle monstrance, an Indian rosewood Calvary cross with semi-precious stones, an ivory sculpture of St Anne and the Virgin Mary, and a wooden bas-relief carving of St Ursula and her virgins. The museum is accessible, has a gift shop and regularly hosts events.

KHAZANS

Dating from the 6th century CE, the khazan land system is a unique aqua-agro system that regulated water salinity and ensured equitable distribution of water. Khazans are coastal wetlands reclaimed from mangrove forests, which contain an intricate system of dykes, sluice gates and canals that helped people farm, fish and pan for salt. In the monsoons, the mud bundhs (outer embankments) would prevent seawater from overflowing into the khazan. A manos (sluice gate) would control the flow of saline water – at high tide, limited water passed through into the fields, which would grow saltwater-tolerant varieties of rice. The water was collected in a reservoir where fish would spawn. At low tide, water was drained out and the adult fish were caught at the manos. There are a few khazan systems left in Goa.

EATING BEYOND PANAJI: BEST GOAN SPACES

Star Bar: Popular lunch joint by the river in Ribandar known for its thalis and fresh fish. 12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun ₹

Segundo Bairro: Goan-run space in Dona Paula doing popular local dishes and desserts. 11am-3.30pm & 7-11pm ₹

Peep Kitchen: This Taleigao institution does traditional Goan food, seafood and some Indian Chinese. noon-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun ₹₹

Low & Slow: BBQ joint in Old Goa known for its slow-cooked meats and sides. 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat, 1-3pm & 7-10.30pm Sun ₹₹

Carambolim TIME FROM PANAJI: 25 MINS

Spot some birds

One of the most popular birding sites in Goa, Carambolim (Karmali) is a small village close to Panaji. The birdwatching opportunities happen around Carambolim Lake, a massive artificial lake home to a variety of migratory and endemic birds. This wetland and the surrounding fields are known to house Indian pond herons, little egrets, common kingfishers, purple swamphens and great cormorants. Go there early in the morning, park by the lakeside and walk into the surrounding forested patches. There are two watchtowers, and info boards describing the species found at the lake and the exotic plants around. You can spend a few hours here, but carry along snacks and water.

Purple swamphen, Carambolim | ANSIEMARTIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Chorão TIME FROM PANAJI: 50 MINS

Go on a wetland walk

The largest island in Goa, Chorão (Chodan) is a picturesque place, accessibly via a ferry ride from Ribandar. It is known for the Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, the largest in Goa and home to a diminishing number of birds and mangroves. The sanctuary is best visited in the morning; while here consider a boat ride through the mangroves (per person ₹100).

To better understand the mangroves and their importance to life in Goa, join an informative wetlands trail with Wild Otters (wildotters.com; ₹600). The early-morning walk takes you through the mangroves and the khazan land; you will spot many bird species and, if lucky, an otter or two (or its scat).

Divar TIME FROM PANAJI: 50 MINS

Experience island life

Another typical Goan island, Divar is one of the state’s most picturesque spots. Keep aside a day to tour this island – you can cycle, ride or drive – and immerse yourself in village life. Start by climbing the hill to the Church of Our Lady of Compassion, which affords great views of the surroundings. As you pass by the villages, stop to admire some of the old houses and eat some snacks at a bakery. Take a break at the Koti Tirth Thali (or Porne Tirth) ruins dating back to the Kadamba dynasty. The original site of the Saptakoteshwar temple, the only thing that remains is a pond surrounded by intricately carved niches meant to hold idols.

Divar is an island known for its festivals. Just before Lent is the three-day Potekar Festival where people dress up in costumes and go from house to house, demanding food and drink. Bonderam is a flag festival marking the protests of the villagers and the face-off with the Portuguese over property disputes on the island.

Dona Paula TIME FROM PANAJI: 15 MINS

Discover secrets of the Raj

Cabo Raj Bhavan (rajbhavan.goa.gov.in) is the official residence of Goa’s governor and located at the end of a cape in Dona Paula, a picturesque neighbourhood located at the confluence of the Mandovi and Zuari Rivers. Cabo Raj Bhavan was once an important fortress for the Portuguese, and is open to tours (₹500). There is much to observe and admire on this 35.5-hecare property, much of it under forest cover. At the top is the laterite stone chapel, Our Lady of the Cape, which was a landmark for seafarers and looks out on the confluence. Nearby is a shrine holding the reclining statue of St Paulina/Paula. The tour covers inclines and descents, moving past an abandoned jetty (once used by friars to access medical facilities), a museum containing old stone carvings, a tiny lawn offering views of Panaji’s coastline and a garden of medicinal plants.

MATOLI

Goa’s celebrations of the Hindu festival of Ganesh Chaturthi have a unique feature, the matoli. Matoli is a showcase of the bounty of Goan produce, from fruits to medicinal herbs and plants, which are strung up on a wooden frame above the idol of Ganesha. The practice dates back to the time when Goans were foragers and, during the monsoon, would turn to their backyards and surrounding forests to source plants, herbs and roots for sustenance at a time when fishing was banned. This foraged produce was incorporated into the festival celebrations too. People used the matoli as a way to teach future generations about the ecology and learn which plants were medicinal and poisonous. Come August, matoli bazaars pop up across the state; Banastarim near Ponda is the most popular.

Set sail on the Mandovi

To fully explore the Mandovi River, skip the cruises and the sunset rides and go sailing with Club Nautilus de Goa (instagram.com/clubenautilusdegoa; one-hour trip ₹4000). Captain and co-owner Hemant Arondekar will teach you some basics about sailing as well as talk about the area, wind speed, physics, geography and the impact of climate change. If you are hungry, there are snacks and drinks on board. Observe the change in Goa’s coastline as you move from the quiet waters of the Mandovi to the choppier Arabian Sea. A sunset sail is ideal to discover Goa’s beauty at dusk. Your journey begins at the crowded Dona Paula Jetty. Day trips (₹12,000) to Grande Island, with water activities like swimming and snorkelling, are also possible.

BEST RELIGIOUS STRUCTURES IN PONDA

Shri Manguesh Temple: This popular Hindu temple has a distinctive seven-storey octagonal lamp tower at its entrance.

Shri Shantadurga Temple: The 18th-century temple is built on a hill and has pyramidal shikaras, arched windows and stained glass.

Shri Nageshi Temple: One of the oldest in Goa, this historic temple has stone idols and an old water reservoir.

Shri Mahalasa Narayani Temple: A 16th-century temple dedicated to the female form of Lord Vishnu. It’s known for a brass bell that rings only if the speaker tells a lie.

Safa Masjid: The 16th-century mosque is built in Indo-Islamic style with a tiled roof, laterite stone masonry and a rectangular tank with 44 hammams.

Salcete

NATURAL BEAUTY | PRESERVED HERITAGE | FASCINATING MUSEUMS

A taluka in South Goa, Salcete (or Sashti) is rich in natural beauty and is a place that is proud of its heritage. It is home to some of Goa’s oldest, most beautiful and well-preserved homes like the Figueiredo Mansion and Menezes Braganca House. It has beaches that cater to every kind of traveller, from buzzing ones with water sports like Benaulim and Colva, to secluded swathes ideal for picnics like Betul.

Margao is the main hub and the focus of many cultural and food experiences; it is considered to be Goa’s commercial capital. Salcete is home to majestic churches, temple ruins and art galleries like Carpe Diem. The people here are proud of their heritage, and this is reflected in their well-preserved homes, the museums like Big Foot, which are based on personal collections, and their food. You will find unique dining experiences here, in people’s homes and hidden away in picturesque corners and farms.

GETTING AROUND

Margao is Salcete’s main city and the city bus stand has services to all the villages in the taluka. Local transport is available between major cities like Margao, Panaji and Vasco, and to the more popular tourist points and beaches. You will find motorcycle pilots and taxis at the bus stands.

SIGHTS

1   Ana Fonte Garden

2   Ancestral Goa

3   Benaulim Beach

4   Betul Beach

5   Big Foot

Casa Araujo Alvares (see 5)

6   Colva Beach

7   Figueiredo Mansion

8   Holy Spirit Church

9   Largo de Igreja

10   Majorda Beach

11   Margao Municipal Garden

12   Mobor Beach

13   Our Lady of Grace Church

14   Patriarchal Seminary of Rachol

15   Saat Burzam Ghor

16   San Thome Museum

17   Three Kings Chapel

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

18   Aquem Cave

19   Cazulo Premium Feni

20   Dogears Bookshop

SLEEPING

21   Alila Diwa Goa

22   Beleza by the Beach

23   Caravela Beach Resort

24   Holiday Inn Resort Goa

25   ITC Grand Goa

26   Kenilworth Resort & Spa

27   Longuinhos Beach Resort

28   Novotel Goa Dona Sylvia Resort

29   Radisson Blu Resort Goa

30   St Regis Goa Resort

31   Vivenda dos Palhacos

EATING

32   Beno

33   Carpe Diem Art Cafe

34   C’est L’Avi

35   Fisherman’s Wharf

36   Goan Kitchen

37   Goan Kitchen Restaurant

38   Goodfellas

39   Juju

40   Konkani Coastal Food Delicacy

41   Longuinhos Bar, Restaurant & Confectioners

42   Martin’s Corner

43   Mon Petit Frère

44   Unndo

45   Zeebop by the Sea

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

46   Bar SoGo

ENTERTAINMENT

47   Ravindra Natya Bhavan

TRANSPORT

48   City Bus Stand

TOP TIP

Ravindra Natya Bhavan in Margao is where you can catch a tiatr, a kind of musical theatre unique to Goa. Check the local newspapers for shows and ticket details.

House Rules

Explore preserved Goan homes

Goa’s heritage mansions offer a glimpse into the area’s architectural and colonial past. Some of these houses date back centuries and have been lovingly restored and thrown open to the public. Many of these houses can be found in Chandor. Begin your tour with the 17th-century Menezes Braganca House (guided tour ₹450) containing a relic of St Francis Xavier, and the first private library. Nearby the original building of Fernandes Heritage House dates back more than 500 years, while the Portuguese section was tacked on by the Fernandes family in 1821. A 7th-century granite stone pillar is inscribed with Kannada script.

In nearby Loutolim is the 16th-century Figueiredo Mansion (instagram.com/figueiredohouse; ₹300), designed by Jesuit priests. A guided tour will direct you to its unique features including an intricate ivory contador (chest of drawers), a 350-year-old lacquer cradle and a 60-piece China set designed by the East India Company. There is a possibility to stay the night here.

Goa of Yore

Tour Big Foot

In the beautiful village of Loutolim, Big Foot (bigfootgoa.in; ₹150 each) offers two family-friendly experiences: a tour of Ancestral Goa, and of the historic Casa Araujo Alvares, next door to Big Foot, which showcases the typical houses of prominent folk of Portuguese times. Ancestral Goa is an open-air museum showcasing old Goan local life and some (dying) professions, depicted using life-size sculptures. Here you can observe different plants and trees, visit the footprint that gives the place its name, and see the world’s largest laterite sculpture of Sant Mirabai. A tour takes over an hour and includes some walking.

Both places have audio guides (in English and Hindi), which tend to rush the experience, so slow down if you need to read the boards or take photos. There are refreshment spots, inside and out.

Big Foot | CAMERANEST/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A Garden Party

Savour a traditional Goan meal

To learn more about the complexity of Goan cuisine, its ingredients and cooking techniques, reach out to the Goan Kitchen (TGK; instagram.com/hellotgk). Oliver Fernandes and Crescy Baptista of TGK offer a leisurely lunch experience (₹3000) in a shaded patch of Crescy’s garden in Loutolim. There’s a welcome drink at the start, either feni or urrak, and some snacks. Between courses, you can wander around the garden, looking at the well, the kitchen set up in a former storeroom, and the rustic kitchen outside. Here, Crescy conducts a sausage-making demonstration, shows the old baking system (tizel) used for bebinca (Goan 16-layer coconut cake), and talks about spices and souring agents as well as the system of purumenth (a local preservation technique). The lavish meal is customisable. Be prepared for a long afternoon and, ideally, a nap after. TGK also has the Goan Kitchen Restaurant space in Margao, with a daily changing menu.

THE PRACTICE OF PURUMENTH

Purumenth is the Konkani corruption of the Portuguese provimento or provisão meaning provisions. Purumenth is a practice of stocking up for a rainy day, and dates back to a time when the monsoons were unpredictable, refrigeration facilities didn’t exist, and there was a scarcity of fresh produce and fish.

Goans would spend their summer months drying and preserving foodstuffs like seafood and fish, kokum and mango seeds to use as souring agents, jackfruit seeds and chillies. In addition, they would make pickles, Goan sausages and wine. Most houses had a special larder to stock these items, which they did along with food grains, seeds and pods, firewood and dried leaves. Come end of May, you could (and still can) find these items in special purumenth markets.

EATING IN SALCETE: LOCAL FOOD

Konkani Coastal Food Delicacy: A favourite lunch spot serving delicious thalis and seafood. noon-3pm & 7.30pm-12.30am ₹

Unndo: Small, family-run Goan restaurant in Benaulim with simple thalis in a vibrant yellow-hued space. 7am-10pm Tue-Sun ₹

Martin’s Corner: Local favourite in Betalbatim offering home-style Goan food. 11.30am-4pm & 6.30-11.30pm ₹₹

Longuinhos Bar, Restaurant & Confectioners: Beloved Goan restaurant in Margao serving familiar favourites. 9am-10.45pm ₹₹

Margao Mayhem

Explore Goa’s commercial capital

The second-largest city in Goa, Margao is often considered Goa’s commercial capital. An important settlement in pre-Portuguese times, the municipality catered to all the villages in Salcete Taluka for 300 years of the colonial rule. Today it’s a bustling, chaotic yet culturally rich city. Walk around to take in its main sights. Start at the Our Lady of Grace Church, which sports a more modern architectural style. If it’s open, drop into the Margao Municipal Garden, with its small children’s park. To treat the munchies, head to any of the small stalls nearby and snack on ros omelette. Next head north towards the imposing, Indian baroque–style Holy Spirit Church (1675), the first church built in the city. In Largo de Igreja, the area around the church, look for the grand Saat Burzam Ghor (1790); as its name suggests, there were seven of the distinctive high-peaked gables, of which only three remain, though it’s still an impressive edifice. If you choose to stick around in the evening, take a walk in the beautiful Ana Fonte Garden and admire its musical fountain.

Margao Municipal Garden | BALAJISRINIVASAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

FINDING FENI

Feni is Goa’s state drink and its favourite spirit. It is made from coconut sap, called coconut feni or maad, or the juice of the cashew apple, called cashew feni. Coconut feni is often infused with botanicals and herbs to create different expressions, the most popular of which is the dukshiri (Indian sarsaparilla root).

Feni is a pre-industrial spirit, still completely handmade and all-natural, made without any preservatives or additives. It is distilled in a pot still and uses yeast from the air for fermentation. The first distillation is called urrak and is a popular summer refresher. In the past, feni was used to treat ailments, added to food, and was a part of many religious and cultural practices. Making feni is a laborious process, which unfortunately doesn’t reflect in its cost. Goans believe the best feni comes straight from the cashew farms and not from branded bottles.

Try it while you’re here – Goa is the only place that makes it.

EATING IN SALCETE: TOP PICKS

Mon Petit Frère: All-day breakfast spot in Colva with stellar sandwiches. ₹

Beno: Breakfast-to-bar spot in Benaulim known for their gin collection, bar bites, events and for being pet-friendly. 8am-midnight ₹₹

Zeebop by the Sea: All-day dining spot on Utorda Beach with an extensive seafood menu. 11am-11pm ₹₹

Goodfellas: Italian restaurant in Benaulim serving homemade pastas and traditional wood-fired oven pizzas. 1-3.30pm Thu-Tue, 7-11.30pm ₹₹

Museum of Technical Objects

Tour Benaulim’s San Thome Museum

If vintage and technical items are your jam, then visit the San Thome (Back in Time) Museum in Benaulim. This private museum is based on Thomas Antonio da Costa’s antique collection, the highlights of which are spread across three floors and include calculators, phones, typewriters, cameras, timekeepers and radios. Some outstanding items include a 1940 dictograph, a grandfather clock with an alarm, an artillery shell fired by Iraq on Kuwait from 1991, a bush radiogram from 1948, a Schiedmayer piano (the only fully working piano with ivory keys from 1880), and stands and frames made with whale bones. It’s a self-guided tour, and a few of the items have notes or information. No photography allowed. The space is laid-back, so it’s best to call before heading over.

On a Cashew High

Sample feni in a pond

At a cashew farm in the hills of Cuelim, you’ll find Cazulo Premium Feni. Here you can sit in a small pool created by a natural spring, under the shade of trees and surrounded by birds, as owner Hansel Vaz teaches you to appreciate the beloved Goan drink during a three-hour tour called the Floating with Feni experience (₹2500). As tiny fish nibble at your feet, Hansel will walk you through the history of feni and how it is made. You can tour the farm and the distillery, and wander around a cellar containing garrafões filled with feni. Afterwards you’ll proceed to a tasting of Cazulo’s different feni offerings – cashew, coconut and dukshiri (made with Indian sarsaparilla root), and learn how to pair these with food. If you wish to initiate yourself with feni, this should be your first stop.

ROS OMELETTE

One of Goa’s most popular street snacks, ros omelette is a fluffy masala omelette smothered with ros (typically a chicken curry made with coconut), and served with Goan poee, or pao. Goans find it a cheap and filling meal, and it works as a quick breakfast, an evening snack or a post binge-drinking treat. It is typically sold out of gaddos (street stalls or kiosks), many of which open around sunset and remain open past midnight, or small tea shops. It is now available in fancier restaurants too. The origins are contentious but most people believe the late Ashok Naik created the dish, serving it out of his stall in Margao.

EATING IN SALCETE: TOP PICKS

Joets Bar & Restaurant: Popular multi-cuisine beach restaurant on Bogmalo Beach with good seafood dishes. 11.30am-11.30pm ₹₹

Bar SoGo: Day bar with good food, exciting cocktails and a solid cigar collection. noon-1am ₹₹

Fisherman’s Wharf: Legendary Goan spot in Mobor beloved for its seafood. noon-11.30pm ₹₹

Juju: Contemporary Indian restaurant in Colva serving big bold flavours. 12.30-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm ₹₹₹

Chapel on a Hill

Visit the Three Kings Chapel

The Three Kings Chapel on a hill in Cansaulim is legendary for being haunted. Its most important role comes every January during the Three Kings Feast. Three young boys from surrounding villages are chosen to enact the story of the wise men who brought gifts for baby Jesus. As part of the celebrations, they ride up to the chapel on horses, on different paths, as part of a procession. If you can’t make it for the festival, you can traverse the same route (on wheels, if not on foot). The white chapel is usually closed through the year, but its greatest asset is the view – an all-round glimpse of the surrounding villages, expanses of green fields and the distant ocean.

Three Kings Chapel | CYRUS PRASANGI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seize the Day

See some art

An art gallery and an art cafe, which also conducts events, Carpe Diem (carpediemgoa.com) does it all. It utilises the rooms of an old Goan home – the main rooms are for exhibitions, the cafe is in the kitchen and backyard, the storeroom hosts pottery workshops, and the garden is the spot for book launches and other events. The gallery is informal and most exhibitions centre on one artist. You can wander around the house (no photography allowed in the exhibition space), play with the house dogs, shop for ceramic magnets and knickknacks, or grab a bite at the cafe. Come here on the weekends, when they have a two-hour afternoon session on pottery (hand-building ₹1200, wheel-throwing ₹1500).

COMMUNITY CRIBS

Every Christmas, youth groups and interested villagers get together to create life-size cribs. These are a way of showcasing creativity as well as emphasising Goa’s secular nature – it is not just Catholics who participate in this activity. These cribs are huge creations and include replicas of the Nativity scene along with things like a recreation of villages, Goan professions or important religious structures. Many cribs use lights, music and technology to stand out. Each crib is unique, either in its creation, the materials used (some go all natural or use waste) or the theme (often a social message). These cribs are typically located in open fields, and near main churches, and are open till late. Entry is free but there are donation boxes.

Rachol’s Riches

Explore a 17th-century seminary

The oldest and largest seminary in Goa was once an orphanage, a hospital, a catechetical school and home to Asia’s third printing press before becoming the Patriarchal Seminary of Rachol. Asia’s largest Catholic seminary makes for an impressive structure, located on a hill, standing tall against the sky. Upon entering, you will walk past a flowering garden to reach the church, the only section of the 17th-century structure open to visitors. Built in Portuguese baroque style, a tour of the church reveals an antique pipe organ, paintings of saints and copies of the works of Goan artist Angelo da Fonseca within its white walls.

Chef’s Table

Dine at a cashew farm

Avinash Martins is a popular Goan chef known for his reimagined Goan food, which he serves at his restaurant Cavatina Cucina in Benaulim. A more unique dining experience, however, is C’est L’Avi (7276413482; per person ₹6000, minimum of six people), a chef’s table at Avinash’s family’s cashew farm in Velim. Located deep in the jungle, surrounded by cashew plantations, this quiet spot looks out onto fields. Here, Avinash serves a seven-course menu that is Goan but with a twist. There are paired cocktails too, some with feni.

The afternoon starts with the making of poee, which is a hands-on experience. The food is served in courses, with Avinash explaining the ingredients, cooking styles, the stories that inspired the dishes and the people involved in bringing it to life (fishermen, toddy tappers, farmers). On the way out, you might see a cashew farmer hard at work stomping cashew apples.

A Home Concert

Enjoy an intimate musical evening

To attend a truly unusual concert, step into a 150-year-old house in Benaulim. Heritage Home Experience (instagram.com/soundsfromgoa; ₹3000) is a small glimpse into the music, dance and cuisine of Goa, packaged into one delightful evening. You begin the evening by wandering around the house, admiring its architecture and the garden. To the side, a table is laden with little-known Goan snacks and drinks. As the sun sets, you’ll make your way to the grand saala (hall) where the band Entre Nos occupies a makeshift stage and performs for an intimate audience. The hour-long concert visits different Goan musical stylings like mandos, dulpods, dekhni and fado. Sometimes there’s even a little dance performance in costume.

BEST BEACHES IN SALCETE

Benaulim Beach: A peaceful beach with a long expanse of white sand, shacks serving good seafood, and some water-sport activity.

Colva Beach: A lively and popular beach, with many food shacks, sunbeds and a variety of water-sport options.

Majorda Beach: A relatively clean beach with few people and dotted with some shacks and sunbeds.

Mobor Beach: A short, clean beach with calm waters, golden sand and a few tourists, located between the Sal River and Arabian Sea.

Betul Beach: A secluded beach located right on the delta of Sal River, fringed by coconut palms and known for its mussels.

TOP SIGHT

Mollem

Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary is the largest wildlife sanctuary in Goa, occupying 240 sq km along the eastern state border and the forested slopes of the Western Ghats. Mollem National Park is the core part of the sanctuary. The forest is home to a variety of flora and fauna, many endemic to the region.

Dudhsagar Falls | NOMADOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mollem has been in the news for three proposed infrastructure projects that will cut through the protected area, irreparably damaging the ecosystem and wildlife that live here. Visit instagram.com/mymollem.goa to follow the local movement to save Mollem.

DON’T MISS

Dudhsagar Falls

Tambdi Surla Temple

Endemic birds

Tambdi Surla Falls

Temple with erotic art

Jungle Trails Homestay

Biodiversity Hotspot

This protected land contains within it plants, butterflies, fish, birds, odonata species, mammals, ants, reptiles, fungi, fish, orchids and lichen. Here, you can find Goa’s state symbols – the state tree (matti or crocodile bark tree), the state bird (flame-throated bulbul) and the state animal (gaur). There are bird, dragonfly and butterfly species endemic to the Western Ghats along with Asian small-clawed otters, which are the smallest in the world. Within the sanctuary, you will find herbivorous and carnivorous animals and reptiles. A hike or a walk, on marked paths, offers glimpses of the sanctuary’s biodiversity.

Dudhsagar Falls

Dudhsagar ranks as one of Goa’s top sights, with many visitors making the trip to the east of Goa just to see the falls. Dudhsagar (literally, river of milk) is a four-tiered waterfall, cascading down over 305m, and disappearing into the thick forest. It holds the honour of being the fifth-tallest fall in India. There is a trekking route to reach the falls, from Kulem village, which takes about three hours. A quicker option is hiring a 4WD at Kulem’s Dudhsagar Taxi stand – you’ll be taken to the foot of the waterfalls with 1½ hours to enjoy the falls. You can swim at the foot of the falls. It is best visited in the monsoon, or just after, though the trekking route becomes a bit tougher.

Tambdi Surla Temple

Goa’s oldest Hindu temple survived both the Inquisition and Muslim rulers because of its remote location in the heart of the forest. The 13th-century Mahadev Temple (locally called Tambdi Surla) is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It’s a small, simple temple carved out of grey-black basalt stone and dating back to the Kadamba dynasty (it bears the coat of arms). Inside see bas-relief idols, the lotus carved on the ceiling and the intricate carvings on the pillars. To reach the temple, enter from the Bolkornem gate and keep driving straight. The last stretch to the temple is on foot. The trek to the Tambdi Surla Falls begins just before the entry to the temple.

A VILLAGE IN THE JUNGLE

Jungle Trails Homestay (facebook.com/jungletrailshomestay) is an eco-tourism venture in a quiet hamlet in the heart of the forest. The women-led homestay is run by the villagers of Talade, who look after the house, cook vegetarian food and even perform folk dances (on request). It’s a simple house, with cow-dung floors, high-roofed ceilings and murals on the walls. There is no phone or internet network here.

Birdwatching

The ruby-throated yellow bulbul, Goa’s state bird, is just one of the 120 avian species that can be spotted in the sanctuary. Increase your chances by joining a birdwatching tour with Mrugaya Expeditions (mrugayaxpeditions.com; ₹5000). You’ll start the day early, at 7am, with naturalist Omkar Dharwadkar, who comes armed with a telescope and binoculars. The first stop is at a small plateau, for a view of fruiting trees and the birds feasting on them. Over the next few hours, you can spot Malabar pied hornbills, black naped orioles, ashy drongos, brown-headed barbets and endemic birds such as the tiny Nilgiri flowerpecker, the Sri Lankan frogmouth, grey-fronted green pigeon and Malabar parakeet.

Erotic Carvings

One of the smaller temples in the sanctuary, the Brahmani Devi temple in Talde, is a true hidden gem. The temple today stands on the ruins of the old one, which was built with similar basalt rock used for Tambdi Surla. There are no records or images of the old temple. The most fascinating aspect of this temple are its folk-style reliefs, which now lie on plinths at the base – there are human-animal hybrid figures, women with lamps, peacocks, fighting scenes and, interestingly, a few erotic scenes.

TOP TIPS

• Look for a guided tour rather than venturing here on your own. Many homestays conduct birdwatching tours.

• The monsoons are the best time to visit the waterfalls but the trek can be treacherous and the path slippery.

• Vehicles are allowed within the sanctuary (at extra cost), so if you wish to cover a lot of area, take your own car.

• A 4WD tour allows you to cover the park (like a safari) and visit a waterfall on one day – ideal for those short on time.

• Night visits can only be done with guides, and require special permission.

Beyond Salcete

Delve into history with a meal on the side, drink some award-winning whisky and visit a disappearing village.

The talukas of Quepem and Sanguem are often ignored in favour of the more accessible and popular Salcete in South Goa. This is a cleaner, greener and picturesque part of Goa, and deep within the heart of these two talukas are places that offer a glimpse of Goa’s rich history. Quepem town was established by a Portuguese nobleman, Deão Jose Paulo, who not only built an impressive house, but also a church, market place and a hospital. The taluka itself has a dam dating to colonial times, a temple on a hill with sacred springs, and beautiful beaches. In nearby Sanguem, which lies to the east and borders Karnataka, is the dam that feeds most of South Goa, a village that resurfaces only in summer, and an impressive wildlife sanctuary.

Places

Quepem Taluka

Sanguem Taluka

GETTING AROUND

Bus connectivity in South Goa is quite restricted and irregular, especially deep within the hinterlands. Consider renting your own vehicle, and mapping out routes beforehand as connectivity in certain areas may be hampered.

Quepem Taluka TIME FROM SALCETE: 30 MINS

Dine by the river at Palácio do Deão

A short drive from Margao leads you to the banks of the Kushavati River and the 18th-century Palácio do Deão (palaciododeao.com; tour and lunch ₹1200). Loving restored by Ruben and Celia Vasco da Gama, the house is open for visits and meals (book in advance). The house was originally built by a dean of the church, and a nobleman considered to be the founder of Quepem, Deão Jose Paulo. Ruben conducts a short tour of the space, talking about the restoration work and pointing out some unique features – the chapel where the dean would conduct prayers, a library with rare books and oyster-shell windows overlooking the verdant garden. After the tour, you can wander about the space yourself, before heading to the verandah for a feast of Indo-Portuguese dishes, eaten against the backdrop of the river. Celia does the cooking – there is no fixed menu, and she uses produce from the garden.

Visit a whiskey distillery

If you make the trip down south to the Cuncolim Industrial Estate, you will be rewarded with whisky. Set up in 2008, John Distilleries (pauljohnwhisky.com) started selling their whiskies in 2015, picking up awards and much recognition along the way. The expansive distillery has a visitors centre, which offers two-hour guided tours (₹400, with tastings ₹650 to ₹1000). Tours begin with a brief video about the company, and an introduction to the grains and peat. In the distillery, replete with shiny tanks and pot stills, you’ll learn about the processes involved, and the importance of the spirit safe. Back in the warehouse, cellars are stocked with different casks used to age the whiskey. The tour ends with a tasting of the three flagship whiskies, and some limited edition ones. The reception has a gift shop where you can purchase whiskies, their in-house gin and merchandise.

Sanguem Taluka TIME FROM SALCETE: 45 MINS

Walk around Salaulim Dam

One of the state’s most important dams, Salaulim (Selaulim) Dam feeds most of South Goa with water. Though a little away from main touristy areas, this artificial earthen reservoir is surrounded by dense lush forests. The dam is of interest, especially during the monsoon, because of its duckbill spillway – when the reservoir fills up, water flows into a semi-circular opening, down a vertical shaft, giving the impression of a sinkhole. It’s what makes it a popular sight, even though photography technically isn’t allowed. In other seasons the dam is still an impressive sight, and you can spot birds diving for fish and spend time picnicking at the botanical garden nearby. You can enter the dam from the bottom, through the gardens and walk up to it, or drive to the entrance from above.

Explore the deserted landscape of Curdi village

Every monsoon, the village of Curdi gets submerged by the Salaulim Dam, built in the 1970s. The village resurfaces once a year, usually in May, for a few weeks. This is when former residents return to celebrate their old home. Curdi is a peaceful, desolate place, with a backdrop of water and mountains of greenery. It is accessible by a dirt road and touring the place involves some amount of trekking in the open. Walk on the cracked earth and look for the remnants of this displaced village – the Sacred Heart of Jesus Chapel, the Someshwar Temple and its deepstambha, stubs of coconut trees, broken houses and some laterite tulsi chauras.

Discover prehistoric petroglyphs

A small hamlet on the banks of the Kushavati River is home to some stunning rock carvings dating back to the Stone Age. The carvings are in Usgalimal or Pansaimol. Look for the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) board on the main road, and follow the well-worn dirt path to the site. It makes for a great first impression, the laterite rock bed by a tranquil river and beyond, the tall trees of a spice farm. There are over 100 petroglyphs, some extremely well defined, including a hunting scene, dancing figure, bull, woman giving birth, animal trap, peacock and an intricate labyrinth. There is a guard on-site, who, if asked, will point out the carvings using water squirted from a bottle. There’s little shade here, so go earlier in the day or late afternoon. The carvings are submerged during the monsoons.

BEST ROCK-CUT CAVES IN GOA

Rivona Caves: Rock-cut laterite caves believed to have been used by Buddhist monks in the 7th century. Around 3km south of Zambaulim village.

Arvalem Caves: The caves in Bicholim, thought to have been carved in the 6th century, have five compartments and linga were discovered in three.

Narve Caves: A set of two caves in Bicholim, one of which contains a basalt tiger sculpture, worshipped locally as vaghro.

Khandepar Caves: Four free-standing caves in Ponda with tiered roofs, lamp niches and a lotus medallion on the ceiling.

Aquem Cave: The rock-cut Pandava Ovreo (Cave of Pandavas) is rectangular with simple windows. It’s found behind St Sebastian Church in Margao.

Places We Love to Stay

₹ Budget ₹₹ Midrange ₹₹₹ Top End

Arambol

ATS All Terrain Stay ₹ A 30-room hostel with sea-facing rooms and an in-house restaurant and tour desk.

Happy Panda ₹ This traveller-focused hostel has a cheap bar and is just a few minutes from the beach.

Melba Beach Resort By Maitree ₹₹ Steps from the beach, this resort features a garden, bar and restaurant serving international cuisine.

Veda5 Wellness Retreat & Spa ₹₹₹ Lake-facing cottages close to the beach. Ayurvedic therapies, nutritious food, yoga and meditation are on offer.

Morjim & Around

Anahata Retreat ₹₹ Eco beachfront resort in Ashwem that also hosts yoga retreats.

Elsewhere ₹₹ A quiet space on a private beach in Ashwem, with four houses and luxury tents overlooking a creek.

Mayfair On Sea ₹₹₹ Beach resort in a tropical garden, with restaurant, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre and bar.

Praya Villas ₹₹₹ Spacious four-bedroom villas on Morjim Beach, with a private pool and lawn.

Vaayu Kula ₹₹₹ Luxurious, pet-friendly space in Mandrem with beach-facing rooms and an in-house surf school.

Palm Grove Beach Resort ₹₹₹ Rustic-looking luxury bungalows in a garden setting on Ashwem Beach, with in-house restaurant and bar.

Bardez

Beachside Hostel ₹ Hostel on Anjuna Beach has dormitory-style and private rooms.

Funky Monkey ₹ Backpacker hostel close to Anjuna Beach, with a garden, library and yoga.

Cavala Seaside Resort ₹₹ A resort near Baga with clean rooms, swimming pool and a bar-restaurant with live music.

Siolim House ₹₹₹ Set in a 350-year-old house, this heritage hotel has stunning architecture, four-poster beds and antique furniture.

Parijaat Goa ₹₹₹ Homestay by the river with a lush garden, an in-house pottery studio and hearty breakfasts.

Bate Papo ₹₹₹ Beautifully restored pet-friendly old house with cafe and shop in Assagao. They rent the full house and individual rooms.

Westin Goa ₹₹₹ Luxury hotel in Anjuna overlooking the Arabian Sea, with four on-site dining options and signature sleep amenities.

Taj Fort Aguada Resort & Spa ₹₹₹ Goa’s first luxury resort with 143 rooms sits on a cliff near the historic Fort Aguada. Excellent dining options.

Ahilya by the Sea ₹₹₹ Gorgeous riverside property in Nerul with three villas, two standalone rooms, two pools and alfresco dining.

Nilaya Hermitage ₹₹₹ An intimate nature resort in Arpora decorated with natural elements and antiques.

Mansionhaus ₹₹₹ A luxury plastic- and paper-free property hotel in a 300-year-old ancestral home in Anjuna with in-house chef, masseuse and co-working space.

Mojigao ₹₹₹ Cute and functional units in Assagao with soundproofing and garden views. Yoga and fitness classes.

Storii by ITC Hotels Shanti Morada ₹₹₹ A boutique hotel in Saligao, this charming property has antiques and modern amenities, and a Jacuzzi bar.

Wildflower Villas ₹₹₹ Seven eco-friendly Portuguese-style villas on an 3-hectare forest estate on a hill in Candolim.

W Goa ₹₹₹ Spread over 10 hectares of land overlooking the Arabian Sea, this hotel has 121 rooms, chalets and villas, and Goa’s first gin bar.

Orchard Manor ₹₹₹ Six-suite, two-storey beautifully designed villa with antique furniture, spacious rooms, infinity pool and lavish meals.

Park Calangute ₹₹₹ An all-white boutique resort with 30 rooms, two terraces and outdoor pool.

Canacona

Bhakti Kutir ₹ A health and nature resort near Colomb Beach, with yoga and meditation classes. The restaurant serves organic food.

Mud Dauber ₹ A homestay and creative space in Sadolxem on the banks of the river, offering a bungalow and tent options.

Jungle by sturmfrei ₹ Beach-front hostel in Palolem with dorms and private rooms, a terrace and lounge and bar.

Earthen Nest ₹₹ Farmstay in a jungle with mud houses, tents and cottages, a pool and offering local food.

LaLiT Golf & Spa Resort ₹₹₹ Spread across 34 hectares on Rajbag beach, the resort has a nine-hole golf course and its own helipad.

Casa Galgibaga ₹₹₹ A luxurious family-run, and lovingly restored, Goan home by the beach, with cute corners and a beautiful garden.

Cabo Serai ₹₹₹ A luxury eco-resort with cottages and tents, on 5.5 hectares overlooking Cabo de Rama Beach.

Casa Jaali ₹₹₹ Tranquil space overlooking Patnem Bay, with rooms, luxury huts and a beach house with a private garden serving healthy, cafe-style food.

Sobit Sarovar Portico Goa ₹₹₹ Hotel close to Palolem Beach built in Goan-Portuguese style with luxury rooms.

Panaji

Old Quarter Hostel ₹ Hostel in the heart of Fontainhas with attached coffee space (no shared lounge or common area).

White Balcao ₹ Hostel in a heritage property in Fontainhas with its own cafe and boutique.

Mateus ₹₹ Boutique hotel in a heritage home in Fontainhas with cosy rooms and a shared kitchen.

Afonso Guesthouse ₹₹ Charming heritage home in Fontainhas with airy rooms, a terrace garden and traditional Goan breakfasts.

O Abrigo ₹₹ Cosy homestay with compact rooms with attached balcony and garden views, and an on-site coffee shop.

Hospedaria Abrigo de Botelho ₹₹ Boutique guesthouse in Fontainhas with air-conditioned rooms furnished with antiques. Great breakfast.

WelcomHeritage PanjimInn ₹₹ Three heritage hotels in the Latin Quarter with a rooftop pool, art gallery and luxury rooms.

Hotel Fidalgo ₹₹ Fancy hotel with mood lighting, soaking tubs, massage chairs and stone fireplace. There’s an outdoor pool and a 24-hour cafe.

Goa Marriott Resort & Spa ₹₹₹ Luxury resort situated on Miramar Beach, with five restaurants and bars, 24-hour fitness centre and activities.

Old Goa

Amrapali House of Grace ₹₹ A pet-friendly boutique hotel in a restored home by the river, with private garden and slow-living practices. Close to Old Goa.

Chorão & Divar

Island Sanctuary ₹₹ Beautifully designed boutique homestay in Chorão with a pool.

Mercure Goa Devaaya Resort ₹₹₹ Luxury Indo-Portuguese-style resort by the river in Divar, with extensive gardens.

Island Pool Villa ₹₹₹ A beautifully restored 120-year-old house with a private pool.

Dona Paula

Cidade de Goa ₹₹₹ This pet-friendly resort on Vainguinim Beach resembles a Portuguese hamlet. Serves good Goan food.

O Pescador ₹₹₹ Boutique waterfront resort with outdoor pool, terrace and restaurant serving local food.

Salcete

Longuinhos Beach Resort ₹₹ Well-known family beach resort with pool and rooms for a range of budgets.

Caravela Beach Resort ₹₹₹ Beachside luxury property in Varca with an outdoor pool, spa and golf course.

Beleza by the Beach ₹₹₹ Luxury beach resort nestled between Betalbatim Beach and paddy fields, with three restaurants, a curio shop and concierge services.

Vivenda dos Palhacos ₹₹₹ A century-old renovated house in Majorda, with three distinctive stay areas, garden and pool.

Kenilworth Resort & Spa ₹₹₹ Luxury resort on Utorda Beach, with five dining options, and a large swimming pool with water slides and a Jacuzzi.

Novotel Goa Dona Sylvia Resort ₹₹₹ Beach resort in Cavelossim with sea-facing rooms and villas, two pools and poolside bar.

Alila Diwa Goa ₹₹₹ A premium resort in Majorda with a kids’ club, culinary classes, mini theatre and restaurants showcasing coastal food.

St Regis Goa Resort ₹₹₹ A 20-hectare beachfront property in Mobor with freshwater lagoons, private butler and ayurvedic spa therapies.

ITC Grand Goa ₹₹₹ Luxury property at Arossim Beach with landscaped garden with lagoons, an outdoor pool, tennis courts and a children’s play area.

Radisson Blu Resort Goa ₹₹₹ Luxury hotel near Cavelossim Beach with 132 rooms and suites, on-site spa, free-form pool and gourmet restaurants.

Holiday Inn Resort Goa ₹₹₹ Luxury resort with Mediterranean-inspired architecture and direct access to Mobor Beach.

Mollem

Nature’s Nest ₹₹ A nature resort near the sanctuary, with mud-lined cottages, a natural spring pool and activities.

Dudhsagar Plantation ₹₹₹ A farmstay on a 20-hectare organic plantation that has a spice garden and natural swimming pool. Delicious food available.

Backwoods Camp ₹₹₹ By a stream in the heart of the sanctuary, this simple space is run by birders for birders.

Karnataka

HISTORIC WONDERS, WILD NATURE AND A MODERN MEGACITY

A state of huge variety, from metropolitan buzz to long-ruined cities, dreamy beaches to luxuriant hill country – much of it undeservedly little-known to outsiders.

Cave temple, Badami | PRASANTH SIVARAJ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The IT boom town Bengaluru (Bangalore), the yoga and former royal capital Mysuru (Mysore), the backpacker havens of hauntingly ruined Hampi and beach-bliss Gokarna – these Karnataka highlights are justly celebrated and well-visited destinations. But there’s a lot more to this large state that too many people hurry through en route between Goa and Kerala or Mumbai and Hyderabad. Much of Karnataka lies on the Deccan, India’s central plateau where a parade of historic kingdoms has left exceptional architectural and artistic legacies, including the Chalukyas, the Hoysalas, the Hampi-based Vijayanagar empire and its nemesis the Bijapur sultanate, and the Mysore kingdom. Between the Deccan and Karnataka’s steamy, beach-fringed coastal strip on the Arabian Sea rise the Western Ghats, verdant hills climbing to 1500m or 2000m that catch a lot of monsoon rainfall and grow most of India’s best coffee. Drier forests on the ghats’ inland side are home to parks and reserves with some of India’s richest concentrations of wildlife: tigers, leopards, elephants and sloth bears among them. Culturally, Karnataka reflects the multiple historical influences of its crossroads location: a large majority of the population is Hindu but there are also significant Muslim, Christian and Jain communities. The cuisine is just as varied: while South Indian vegetarian cuisine is popular in the south, the north is more meat-leaning, and the coast is deservedly famed for its seafood.

GRIGORY KUBATYAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE MAIN AREAS

BENGALURU

Huge city, a lot of fun.

MYSURU

Royal palaces and yoga.

WESTERN GHATS

Green, coffee-growing hill country.

KARNATAKA COAST

Golden sands, great seafood.

HAMPI

Epic ruined city, psychedelic sunsets.

BADAMI

Stunningly sculpted cave temples.

VIJAYAPURA

Magnificent Islamic monuments.

Find Your Way

Most of Karnataka lies on India’s central plateau, the Deccan, with the state capital Bengaluru in the southeast. The Western Ghats separate the Deccan from a coastal strip along the Arabian Sea.

Plan Your Time

Sojourns at Hampi and/or Gokarna and yoga in Mysuru are the main draws for many. Then there are wildlife safaris, hill-country delights, monumental heritage and big-city life.

Yogis at Mysuru Palace | PRIYA DARSHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Just a Few Days

• Karnataka is a big state and it takes time to move around; with just a few days you can’t really cover more than two places. Depending on your interests, pick any pair from Bengaluru (metropolitan buzz), Mysuru (palaces and yoga), Nagarhole Tiger Reserve (animals), Gokarna (beaches) and Hampi (surreal ruins and traveller scene)!

Three Weeks or More

• Experience the big, progressive capital Bengaluru before heading to Mysuru’s magnificent palace and Nagarhole for wildlife safaris. Follow Gokarna beach time with the diverse heritage of Badami and Hampi. Add Kodagu for a taste of hill country and Vijayapura for monumental Islamic architecture.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

EARLY DRY SEASON

October to January are good months to be in Karnataka. It’s dry and temperatures are moderate. Mysuru’s mega-festival Dasara (Dussehra) happens in October.

LATE DRY SEASON

February to April are still dry but getting hot. These are best months for wildlife sightings in parks and reserves.

MONSOON

From late May or June into October. Deluges on the coast and in the Western Ghats; much less wet on the Deccan.

Bengaluru (Bangalore)

URBAN BUZZ | EATING & DRINKING | PARKS

The IT boom city of South India, Bengaluru is bright lights, festive beer bars, shiny shopping centres and lots of well-salaried young professionals – and also green parks, old-fashioned markets and simple vegetarian eateries. Its rapid growth has engendered water supply problems and terrible traffic, but it’s a lot of fun and its climate is delightful.

Bengaluru began life in 1537 as a trading settlement. The British established their HQ for the Mysore kingdom here in the 19th century. The Indian Institute of Science was founded here in 1909 and pioneering educational, research and industrial ventures followed in succeeding decades. Texas Instruments (1985) was the first multinational to arrive, and by the turn of the 21st century the city was already ‘India’s Silicon Valley’.

Bengaluru has around 15 million people in its agglomeration of neighbourhoods, and competes with Mumbai for India’s highest per-capita income. Many people still use its anglicised name Bangalore.

GETTING AROUND

An efficient metro system (english.bmrc.co.in) serves many useful places including two of the three major train stations (KSR Bengaluru and Yesvantpur Junction), the main Kempegowda (Majestic) Bus Station, MG Rd, Cubbon Park and Indiranagar.

Bengaluru has many Uber and Ola vehicles, autos as well as cars. From Kempegowda International Airport, an Uber to the city centre costs around ₹1000. The cheaper VayuVajra airport bus service (https://mybmtc.karnataka.gov.in) also runs frequently to many parts of the city.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Cubbon Park

2   Krishnara-jendra Market

3   Lalbagh Botanical Gardens

4   National Gallery of Modern Art

SIGHTS

5   Attara Kacheri

6   Bangalore Fort

7   Bangalore Palace

8   Government Museum

9   Karnataka Chitrakala Parishath

10   Kempegowda Museum

11   Museum of Art & Photography

12   Mythic Society

13   Sri Anjaneya Swami Temple

14   Sri Rangana-thaswamy Temple

15   State Central Library

16   Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace

17   Venkatappa Art Gallery

18   Vidhana Soudha

SLEEPING

19   Casa Cottage

20   Hotel Ajantha

21   jüSTa MG Road

22   Laika Boutique Stay

23   Locul Uptown

24   St Mark’s Hotel

25   Taj West End

EATING

26   Church Street Social

27   Empire

28   Food Street

29   Karavalli

30   Koshy’s Bar & Restaurant

31   Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR)

32   Nagarjuna

33   Olive Beach

34   Royal Afghan

35   Smoor Signature Lounge

36   Sunnys

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

37   Arbor Brewing Company

38   Biere Club

39   Brahmin’s Coffee Bar

40   Café Coffee Day

41   Karnataka Coffee Board Coffee Shop

42   Shiro

43   Toast & Tonic

44   Trippy Goat

SHOPPING

45   Blossom Book House

46   Forest Essentials

47   Gangarams Book Bureau

48   Ganjam Jewellers

49   Mysore Saree Udyog

50   Russell Market

51   San-Cha Tea Boutique

52   UB City

TRANSPORT

53   Kempegowda Bus Stand

54   KSR Bengaluru Train Station

EATING IN BENGALURU: CITY CENTRE

Church Street Social: Urban-chic central restaurant; everything from momos and mezze to steaks and breakfasts. 9am-12.30am ₹₹

Nagarjuna: Delicious Andhra cuisine. Head to the Residency Rd branch for a bhojanam lunch meal or biryani. noon-3.45pm & 7-10.45pm ₹₹

UB City: This shopping centre’s 2nd-floor piazza has open-air restaurants. Top choices include pan-Indian SALT and Italian Toscano. 11am-11pm ₹₹₹

Empire: Inexpensive tandoori and meat dishes in unpretentious surrounds. Try pepper chicken or a mutton biryani. 6am-midnight ₹

A Walk in the Park

Stroll Cubbon Park and Lalbagh

Bengaluru is called the Garden City with good reason: a wander in some of its beautiful green spaces is not to be missed. In the central 1.2-sq-km Cubbon Park, walking paths (and a couple of roads) are strung between grassy lawns, ponds and flowering trees chosen to provide year-round blooms. The red-painted, colonial-era State Central Library and Attara Kacheri (Karnataka High Court), and a trio of museums, stand within the park. Opposite the northwest side rises the massive 1950s neo-Dravidian-style Vidhana Soudha, Karnataka’s state parliament.

A couple of kilometres south is delightful Lalbagh, a 1-sq-km botanical park laid out by Hyder Ali in the 18th century. You can stroll among beautiful and impressive trees (don’t miss the giant silk-cotton tree), a big lake and a century-old glasshouse, and enjoy the views from a 16th-century watchtower.

Lalbagh | KEV GREGORY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Coffee Culture

Enjoy Bengaluru’s pioneering cafe scene

There are two kinds of coffee house in Bengaluru. Both are among the chief pleasures of life here. One kind serves traditional South Indian filter coffee, concocted with coffee powder (different from instant coffee), a special filtering device, and milk and sugar. This is what you get in any inexpensive local eatery that serves coffee. The other kind is the modern wave of speciality coffee providers serving espressos, cold brews and affogatos from fresh-ground, selectively sourced beans, in comfortable spaces tempting you to linger. Most of the best Indian coffee is grown in the green hills of Karnataka’s Chikkamagaluru and Coorg regions, and Bengaluru can claim to be the birthplace of the country’s ‘craft coffee’ revolution.

South Indian filter coffee can be a tasty and reviving brew: one standout famed for its coffee quality is Brahmin’s Coffee Bar in Basavanagudi. This darshini (pay-first, self-serve, inexpensive South Indian eatery) also does tasty snacks, everything being consumed standing up at small tables.

In 1996 up popped the first Café Coffee Day on Bengaluru’s Brigade Rd, the beginning of India’s original espresso empire with cheerful, modern cafes. CCD’s HQ, and six cafes, remain in Bengaluru.

Third Wave Coffee Roasters opened its first cafe in Koramangala in 2016, heralding a fresh approach with single-origin, Chemex and cold-brew offerings and a bring-your-laptop vibe. With small-batch roasting and ethical sourcing, it now has over 40 cafes all over Bengaluru and 60-plus in other Indian cities. Come here if you’re after hazelnut cappuccino or orange-zest mocha (or just a good Americano)!

Blue Tokai began life in Delhi in 2013 but the chain’s co-founders came of course from Bengaluru. It offers high-quality hot and cold brews, flavoured brews, pour-overs of the week – and good all-day food. It gives its customers plenty of info about its coffees: farm, roast level, acidity. Of some 90 Blue Tokai cafes around India, 12 are in Bengaluru, including a particularly chilled branch in Koramangala.

GARDEN CITY

Poornima is an author, storyteller, historian and founder of Unhurried, conducting walks and tours in and beyond Bengaluru. unhurried.in

You’ll be surprised at the range of trees lining Bengaluru’s streets or leaning out of compounds. They can range from a simple Indian sampige (Magnolia champaca) to the pink South American tabebuias that Bengaluru is famous for. Visit Lalbagh, Cubbon Park or Bugle Rock Park to discover the city’s trees.

Birdwatching around the many lakes is another great pastime. Visit Hebbal or Lalbagh lakes or lesser-known Puttenahalli or Jakkur lakes and spot birds like heron, barbet, pelican and many more. (Check out bngbirds.com for a weekend walk.) Trek up the Nandi or Savandurga hills for a fantastic window to nature and a welcome break from city traffic!

EATING IN BENGALURU: CITY CENTRE & INDIRANAGAR

Sunnys: Has a lovely patio for mainly Mediterranean alfresco dining including great desserts. noon-3.30pm & 6-10pm ₹₹₹

Karavalli: Mangaluru, Goan and Kerala flavours in garden pavilions at the Vivanta hotel. Great for curries and grills. 12.30-3pm & 6.30-11pm ₹₹₹

Rameshwaram Cafe: Line up with the Indiranagar evening crowds for dosas, idlis or rice preparations then eat standing on the pavement. 6.30am-1am ₹

Burma Burma: Flavourful Burmese fare in Indira-nagar. Go for mango salad, a curry or rice dish, and tagu pyian dessert. noon-3pm & 6.30-10.30pm ₹₹₹

BENGALURU NEIGHBOURHOODS

The main downtown axis is Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Road. The city’s original heart, the Pete, lies 2km to 5km southwest of here. South, north and east of MG Rd are areas that comprised the Cantonment (British garrison and settlement area) in colonial times, including Ashok Nagar (south), Shivaji Nagar (north) and the restaurant and nightlife hub Indiranagar (east). Koramangala, around 4km southwest of Indiranagar, is another nocturnal hotspot. Basavanagudi, 3km south of the Pete, and Malleswaram (3km north) are neighbourhoods of wide, straight streets, laid out with improved sanitation after the plague epidemic of 1898. The major IT hubs are mostly a good 15km to 20km from the centre in areas like Electronic City (south) and Whitefield (east).

EATING IN BENGALURU: SOUTH & NORTH OF CENTRE

Food Street: Popular street of veg food stalls in Basavanagudi, doling out dosas, parathas, kathi rolls, pulao, chhole bhature and taco-waffle ice-cream! 5-11pm ₹

Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR): Legendary name in South Indian comfort food, offering a fantastic 21-item vegetarian lunch (₹340). 6.30-11am, 12.30-2.45pm & 3.30-8.30pm Tue-Sun ₹

Olive Beach: Top-class Mediterranean food in leafy patios or a whitewashed AC room. 12.30-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm ₹₹₹

Royal Afghan: Terrific, expensive kebabs, seafood and paneer dishes, including many tandoori items, poolside at the ITC Windsor hotel. 12.30-3pm & 7-11.30pm ₹₹₹

Where Bengaluru Began

A tour of the Pete

The Pete (meaning bazaar in Kannada and pronounced peh-teh) is the area where Kempegowda, a chieftain under the Vijayanagar empire, established the fortified 16th-century trading settlement that grew into Bengaluru. Its old mud-built defensive wall has disappeared but the Pete remained the heart of the city until the 20th century and is today a fascinatingly traditional neighbourhood of crowded narrow streets, small shops and scattered places of worship of different religions. The ideal way to experience it is on a walking tour such as those offered by Unhurried, whose experts will fill in the picture with fascinating stories and details.

The Pete’s two main streets, meeting at a focal crossroads, are Avenue Rd (formerly Doddapete, Big Pete) and Old Taluk Cutchery (OTC) Rd (formerly Chikpete, Small Pete).

Wandering south down Avenue Rd from the colourful Sri Anjaneya Swami Temple, join locals for South Indian filter coffee at the Karnataka Coffee Board Coffee Shop (a converted bus) at the first corner. The next stretch of Avenue Rd is strung with shops specialising in stationery, press and textbooks. The fourth street on the right leads to the atmospheric, 16th-century Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, dedicated to a form of Vishnu.

Back on Avenue Rd, silk and other clothing shops start to take over. Turning right along OTC Rd you can experience a quarter-kilometre dedicated almost entirely to retailing saris. The most colourful of all spots in the Pete is Krishnarajendra Market (also known as City Market) off the south end of Avenue Rd, awash with bright piles of fruit, vegetables, spices and flowers. Inaugurated in 1927, with a grand gateway on the south side, the market now also contains a four-storey 1990s building in the middle. Head upstairs to look down on a yard full of yellow, orange and white garlands wound into rings, which make a famous Bengaluru photo op!

HISTORY OF BENGALURU

Usha is an engineer-turned-historian and nature lover who loves conducting city walks.

One of the first places for history buffs to visit in Bengaluru is the Government Museum. This beautiful red structure sheds light on Karnataka history through inscriptions, numismatics and sculptures. A copy of the 890 CE Begur inscription that makes the earliest reference to Bengaluru is housed here.

The story of modern Bengaluru begins with Kempegowda, the chieftain who fortified the city in 1537. Visit the Kempegowda Museum at Mayo Hall to get a glimpse of his life and achievements and places around Bengaluru linked to his lifetime.

Follow up with a visit to the Mythic Society, in the century-old Daly Memorial Hall, that has rare books and maps on Bengaluru.

DRINKING IN BENGALURU: CITY CENTRE

Biere Club: Bengaluru’s original microbrewery, still one of the best with three human-scale, pub-style floors and several in-house craft beers. 11am-11pm, to 1am Fri-Sat

Arbor Brewing Company: Long, busy beer hall with gleaming tanks brewing a range of on-tap beers; good food and other drinks, and non-boom-boom music. noon-1am

Koshy’s: Roll back the years with pints of Kingfisher and ‘short eats’ of baked beans on toast at this convivial, whirring-fans establishment. 9am-10.30pm

Shiro: Elegant, partly open-air UB City lounge bar with powerful cocktails, good Southeast Asian food and Buddha and nymph statues. 12.30-11.30pm, to 1am Fri-Sat

Beer City

Sink a pint in a macro microbrewery

Bengaluru’s love of beer goes back to colonial times. United Breweries, producer of India’s most popular beer brand Kingfisher, was founded here in 1915 and still has its HQ here. Atmospheric old-school watering holes like city-centre Koshy’s – ‘katerers to the Queen of England’ (sic) – with its white-coated waiters and brown furnishings, are redolent of past eras.

But today it’s all about microbreweries. Bengaluru’s large middle class has taken to fresh-brewed craft beer so avidly that there are now approaching 100 brewpubs scattered around the city. Some are far more macro than micro, including vast multi-level cathedrals of beer like Koramangala’s Biergarten and Bier Library, seating several hundred drinkers and building up quite a party atmosphere. Others, like Biere Club (Bengaluru’s original microbrewery, open since 2010), are on a more personal scale. Either way, they’re a Bengaluru experience not be missed.

Wheat beers such as hefweizen and Belgian witbier are among the most popular brews, but there are plenty of Indian pale ales (IPAs), pilsners and, lately, stouts on offer too. Experimental-minded Bangaloreans like the flights (samplers of six or eight beers) and the many seasonal and novelty beers – flavours of fruits, herbs, spices, caramel – dreamed up by innovative brewers.

Beyond beer, microbreweries also serve all kinds of other drinks and often have great food offerings. Some people treat them as much as restaurants as pubs. Some, like Toit, even open for breakfast.

Our No 1? Toit is one of the originals (since 2010), still going very strong, and is on a relatively modest scale with a great pub atmosphere...and its hoppy-but-not-overly-so IPA is beer perfection!

Craft beer | SUNIL AK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BENGALURU’S TOP SHOPPING AREAS

Vittal Mallya & Lavelle Roads: Bengaluru’s glitziest mall UB City, plus Ganjam Jewellers, Forest Essentials (high-end natural cosmetics) and San-Cha Tea Boutique.

Commercial Street: A half-kilometre devoted chiefly to saris and other textiles: Mysore Saree Udyog is one of Bengaluru’s busiest shops.

Chandni Chowk: The heart of a bustling area of mainly small traders. Nearby is the colonial-era Russell Market (food).

Church Street: Bookshop central: Gangarams and the westernmost of three Blossoms have the biggest selections.

Krishnarajendra Market: A highly colourful morning scene of flowers, fruit, vegies and spices.

EATING & DRINKING IN BENGALURU: TOP CAFES

Blue Tokai: This chain’s 20th Main Rd branch has friendly buzz along with fresh-roasted brews, salads, sandwiches and breakfasts. 8am-11pm ₹

Smoor Signature Lounge: Chocolate decadence in a glitzy pavilion. Finely crafted desserts, plus wraps and pasta. 8am-midnight ₹₹

Dyu Art Cafe: The coffee aroma will draw you into this Koramangala cafe-gallery with cakes and other eats in a peaceful courtyard. 10am-10.30pm ₹

Brahmin’s Coffee Bar: Renowned Basavanagudi cafe, busy with people stopping for coffee and South Indian snacks. 6am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat ₹

Pre-British Power Centre

Fort remains and a sultan’s palace

The Wadiyar kings of Mysore built a mud fort immediately south of the Pete in the 17th century, and the 18th-century rulers Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan strengthened this into a stout stone-walled fort almost 1km long. All that remains of Bangalore Fort is part of the northern Delhi Gate, beside Krishnarajendra Rd. A plaque on the southeast gate’s corner marks the spot where British forces breached the walls in 1791. More aesthetic is Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace 500m further south (it was inside the fort’s 18th-century extents), an elegant two-storey structure in teak and stone, with floral murals and fluted columns supporting handsome shell-form arches. There’s a small museum inside the ground floor.

Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace | LIFE_LINE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Artistic Touch

Bengaluru’s top-notch galleries

Don’t miss the central Museum of Art & Photography (MAP), new in 2023, a five-floor contemporary space with innovative exhibits ranging over classic, folk and modern Indian art. Across the road, the Venkatappa Art Gallery showcases further contemporary art, plus landscapes by Mysore royal court painter K Venkatappa.

A couple of kilometres north, the large National Gallery of Modern Art has a top-rank collection of Indian art from early miniatures through colonial-era landscapes to the influential 20th-century Bengal School. Guided walks (4pm Wednesday and Saturday) are a great way to discover the highlights. A short tuk-tuk ride further, the Karnataka Chitrakala Parishath ranges over (among other things) striking Mysore traditional art, Adivasi art from around India, and Himalayan mountainscapes by Nikolai Roerich.

In this part of town it’s also worth taking in Bangalore Palace, a Windsor Castle–inspired pile belonging to the former Mysore royal family. It’s a mix of the grand and the faded – including an opulent durbar hall and a trophy-decked billiard room.

KARNATAKA FOOD

Vidya is an avid cook, food blogger and food walk leader. vidyascooking.blogspot.com

Karnataka has great regional food variety. The north is known for jowar (millet) rotis, brinjal curry and pulses, while the south is famous for dishes like idlis, dosas and flavoured rice preparations like puliogare and bisibelebath. The coast has varied fish curries. Fusion cuisines from Bengaluru’s British and Muslim history gave us paya soup (with lamb trotters) and botti saaru (mutton soup).

In Bengaluru (where restaurants can be known as ‘hotels’) the ‘Kamat’ hotels serve typical North Karnataka cuisine, while ‘Karavali’ hotels provide coastal cuisine and ‘Military’ hotels are good for rice-based meat dishes. Head to ‘Udupi’ hotels, ‘Bhavan’s or ‘Tiffin rooms’ for simple South Karnataka cuisine.

DRINKING IN BENGALURU: A BIT LESS CENTRAL

Toit: Outstanding microbrewery, 300m from Indiranagar metro. Usually at least eight beers on tap, plus cocktails, pizzas, salads... 9am-1am

Toast & Tonic: Speciality aromatic tonics go into the great G&Ts and cocktails in this slick setting. Classy global grub too. noon-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm

Bob’s Bar: Unpretentious Koramangala kerbside pub with beers on tap and lots of people just enjoying a social drink. 11.30am-1am

Trippy Goat: Cottage-like retreat with long list of international wines by the glass, mulled wine and excellent Europe-leaning food. 10.30am-11pm

Mysuru (Mysore)

ROYAL PALACES | YOGA | TEMPLES

Formerly capital of one of colonial India’s most important princely states, Mysuru is famed above all for the exceptionally splendid palace of its erstwhile ruling dynasty, the Wadiyars. It is indeed a city of palaces: seven in all, at least five of them visitable, and a good deal more monumental architecture. The central market area gives way to leafy outer neighbourhoods, one of which, Gokulam, is the home of ashtanga vinyasa yoga, which draws thousands of students from around the world annually. Something of a cultural capital, Mysuru stages one of India’s grandest traditional festivals in its 10-day Dasara celebrations (Dussehra; September/October). Tourism and IT are backbones of its economy and it’s famed for silk (Mysore saris are especially fine and expensive because of the gold-and-silver zari thread embroidered in) and sandalwood-oil products (chiefly soap). Officially renamed from Mysore in 2014 but still widely known by its old name, Mysuru has a population of around one million.

GETTING AROUND

It’s very easy and cheap to get around by Uber and Ola autorickshaws, which are rarely more than a couple of minutes away. Inter-city buses arrive and depart from the busy Central (KSRTC) Bus Stand, 1.5km north of Mysuru Palace. The train station, Mysuru Junction, is 2km northwest of the palace. Mysuru airport, 10km south of the centre, has flights to/from Chennai and Hyderabad only. If you’re flying in or out of Bengaluru, the comfortable state-run Flybus travels direct between Bengaluru airport and Mysuru’s Central (KSRTC) Bus Stand (3½ hours) almost hourly round the clock.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Mysuru Palace

SIGHTS

2   Government House

3   Jaganmohan Palace

4   Kukkarahalli Lake

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

5   Ashtanga Saadhana

6   K Pattabhi Jois Ashtanga Yoga Shala

7   Yoga Bharata

8   Yoga with Srinatha

9   Yogadarshanam

SLEEPING

10   Anokhi Garden

11   Parklane Hotel

12   Rahee Bi Roambay

13   Royal Orchid Metropole

14   Southern Star

EATING

Anokhi Garden Cafe (see 10)

15   Depth ‘n’ Green

16   Hotel RRR

17   Old House

Parklane Hotel (see 11)

Tiger Trail (see 13)

18   Vinayaka Mylari

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

19   Pelican Pub

SHOPPING

20   Devaraja Market

TRANSPORT

21   Central (KSRTC) Bus Stand

22   Mysuru Junction Station

TOP TIP

Feeling the heat? Pools at several Mysuru hotels are open to nonguests for a few hundred rupees. Particularly inviting is the oval pool in the Southern Star’s tropical garden.

The City Beyond the Palace

Markets, museums and more palaces

The central area around the palace is a planned zone of wide straight streets, large roundabouts around Wadiyar statues, and monumental architecture. At Devaraja Market, traders sell colourful traditional items such as garlands, piles of kumkum (coloured powder used for bindi dots), bangles and spices – and plenty of fruit, veg and herbs. Bustling bazaar streets extend to the west, south and east. A few minutes’ walk south, the large and impressive Jaganmohan Palace was built for the Wadiyars in 1861 and now houses a huge collection of Indian art, including a room devoted to the beloved 19th-century Keralite artist Raja Ravi Varma. Other main colonial-era landmarks are Government House, the former British Residency, in large grounds open to the public; and, 5km east of the centre, the enormous 1920s Lalitha Mahal Palace, built as a local pied-à-terre for the British governors-general – now a hotel with restaurant and bar open to the public.

For greenery and fresh air, join the Mysoreans on the popular 3.5km circuit round tree-girt Kukkarahalli Lake, 3km west of Mysuru Palace (open 6am to 9.30am and 4pm to 6.30pm).

TOP SIGHT

Mysuru Palace

Mysuru Palace, the former seat of the Wadiyar maharajas, is one of India’s very grandest royal buildings and most visited monuments. Its ceremonial rooms are a glittering sequence of gorgeously decorated halls and fascinating art and artefacts, giving a great sense of the pomp, circumstance and beauty surrounding royal life.

Public Durbar Hall | SANKET_MISHRA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code for more about the palace and the Wadiyars.

LIGHTING-UP TIME

The palace is illuminated by 97,000 light bulbs – a glorious sight to behold – for an hour from 7pm on Sundays and national holidays and during Dasara, and for 15 minutes after its sound-and-light show (normally 8pm, Monday to Saturday).

Dolls’ Pavilion

The first hall you reach inside the palace was designed for traditional worship of dolls during Dasara. Today its southern half (where you come in) displays sculptures from the maharaja’s collection. Straight ahead as you enter is a model of the pre-1897 wooden palace. Further along, look for the mini-pavilion structure with Rajasthani mirrorwork, housing a figure of Ganesh playing the lute-like veena.

Look down to the right to seven ceremonial cannons and four ammunition carriages. The cannons are still fired during Dasara.

Elephant Gate

Halfway along the Dolls’ Pavilion, the visitor route turns left through the ornate Elephant Gate, traditional starting point of ceremonial processions, flanked by two wall-mounted elephant heads. The gate’s superb brasswork includes large repoussé elephants below, and, in the centre, a double-headed eagle flanked by hybrid lion-elephants – the state emblem of both modern Karnataka and the old Mysore kingdom.

Marriage Pavilion

You next pass into the Marriage Pavilion; it’s still the setting for royal weddings and other ceremonies. Maharaja Yaduveer Krishnadatta Chamaraja Wadiyar was crowned here in 2015 and married here in 2016. Take time to absorb the beauty of the octagonal central ensemble with its delicate turquoise-and-gold fluted pillars, colourful stained-glass ceiling, intricate floor mosaics and low-hanging chandelier. The fascinatingly detailed murals of a 1930s Dasara procession were based on photographs and show real people.

Golden Howdah

After passing through rooms of royal portraits, caskets and ‘chairs’ (thrones), and around the Wrestling Courtyard, you re-emerge in the Dolls’ Pavilion, whose northern half displays dolls and, at the end, the remarkable Golden Howdah which carries Mysuru’s guardian deity, Chamundeshwari, during the Dasara procession. It’s wooden, decorated with 80kg of intricately worked gold. Take a close look at the fly whisks on either side: their bristles are made from fine ivory.

Public Durbar Hall

Now you head upstairs to the most magnificent section of all: the hall where the maharaja presided over public gatherings, with mesmerising turquoise-and-gold-painted colonnades. The front of the hall, with terraced seating for guests, looks over the palace grounds. The back-wall paintings, beneath arches inlaid with semiprecious stones, show forms of the goddess Devi, four Wadiyar kings (in the centre) and, at the right-hand end, Sita’s Swayamvara, a Ramayana scene by famed Keralite artist Ravi Varma. The front-ceiling paintings illustrate the 10 incarnations of Vishnu and, in the central panel, the Hindu Trimurti (trinity) gods Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, plus Chamundeshwari, with the 12 zodiac signs in the sky around them.

Private Durbar Hall

This final main room, entered through rosewood doors with intricate ivory-inlay motifs depicting Krishna, is where the rulers held private audiences and meetings. Richly decorated with green-and-gold columns and arches, chandeliers and stained-glass ceiling panels, this is also where the historic Golden Throne (complete with its own golden staircase and golden sunshade) is placed during Dasara, the only time it’s on public show.

FROM THE ASHES

Mysuru Palace was built between 1897 and 1912 after its early-19th-century wooden predecessor burned down in a fire that broke out at the end of Princess Jayalakshmmanni’s wedding. It owes its Indo-Saracenic style to British architect Henry Irwin (who also designed the Viceregal Lodge in Shimla), while BP Raghavulu Naidu, a Mysore government engineer, was in charge of the construction works.

TOP TIPS

• To miss the thickest crowds, visit early (the palace opens at 10am) and avoid weekends and public holidays. Enter through a gate in the south side of the exterior fort wall.

• Touring the palace at a moderate pace takes one to 1½ hours.

• The palace has many fascinating details and stories: a guide can be invaluable. Official guides are available inside the grounds (₹300 to ₹400 for a one-hour tour).

• After the palace itself, it’s well worth walking around its grounds and gardens, which contain several centuries-old temples and some grandiose gateways.

Yoga Epicentre

The home of ashtanga vinyasa

Mysuru is a world-famous yoga centre, primarily for ashtanga vinyasa yoga, which was developed here in the mid-20th century, and later popularised in the West, by K Pattabhi Jois. Ashtanga vinyasa is a demanding form of postural yoga involving a sequence of asanas (postures) linked by smooth transitions with synchronised breathing. Learning and practising it requires very strong commitment: courses here are often for a minimum of one month, or longer. You will normally attend group sessions for 1½ or two hours six mornings a week. Class sizes depend on the school and normally range from around 15 to 30 students, though the most popular teacher, Pattabhi Jois’s grandson Sharath, may have as many as 70 in each session. Courses in Mysuru are offered for yoga teacher training as well as practice, and for the most popular you have to register online on specific dates some months ahead.

Hatha yoga and various specialised disciplines are also on offer at several schools, and in recent years a growing number of short-term courses and drop-in classes have become available, so you can still participate in the experience even if you’re only in Mysuru for a limited period.

Many schools cluster in the residential Gokulam neighbourhood, about 5km northwest of the city centre. You can get tips about accommodation and much more through social media such as the Gokulam Tribe and Mysore Yoga Travellers WhatsApp groups or the Mysore Yoga Community Facebook group.

Mysuru is also a centre for ayurveda and other healing arts. The Indus Valley Ayurvedic Centre, in a rural setting beneath Chamundi Hill, is an outstanding residential centre with specialist doctors, offering all manner of detox, rejuvenation, beauty, weight and other treatments in packages from one night to one month.

DASARA FESTIVAL

Mysuru’s 10-day Dasara (as Dussehra is spelt here), in September/October, is one of India’s most extravagantly festive festivals: dance, music, sport and more attract big crowds. The palace, illuminated every evening, is the main focus. The Doddakere Maidana opposite the palace’s east gate hosts a fairground and crafts, food, business and government exhibition. Excitement peaks on the last day, called Vijayadashami, with the Jambu Savari, a dazzling procession of costumed elephants, garlanded idols, dancers, drummers, horses, camels and decorated floats from the palace to Bannimantap in the north of the city. Goddess Chamundeshwari takes pride of place, carried on elephant-back in the palace’s Golden Howdah. The city is chock-a-block with visitors during Dasara, especially on Vijayadashami.

EATING & DRINKING IN MYSURU: OUR PICKS

Old House: Enjoy excellent pizzas, salads, pasta, risottos and non-alcoholic drinks on the terrace at this Italian spot. 8am-midnight ₹₹

Parklane Hotel: Lively restaurant with a candlelit terrace and good regional dishes from across India. Live classical Indian music nightly. 7am-11pm ₹₹

Hotel RRR: Fill up with tasty biryanis on banana leaves at this local-favourite, air-con Andhra-cuisine diner. 12.30-4.30pm & 7.30-10pm ₹

Tiger Trail: The Royal Orchid Metropole’s dining room is a grand setting for top-notch Indian cuisine. 7.30-10am, 12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-10pm ₹₹₹

Hill of the Mother Goddess

The temple of Chamundeshwari

Mysuru’s protector deity Chamundeshwari, a lion-riding manifestation of Durga, resides on Chamundi Hill, where she’s believed to have slain the havoc-causing, shape-shifting buffalo demon Mahishasura. A visit to her hilltop temple provides (if the air is clear) big views as well as close-up experience of Hindu devotion. Queues to enter the temple are long at weekends, so try to go during the week. The temple is a winding 12km by road from the city centre. Uber autorickshaws should cost around ₹175 each way (though drivers may ask extra for going uphill!). You can also walk up (and/or down) the 1000-plus Chamundi Hill Steps used by pilgrims, which start opposite the Sri Ayyappa Swamy Temple in Chamundipuram, passing en route a beautiful, old, rock-carved sculpture of Nandi, Shiva’s bull vehicle.

Chamundeshwari temple | SANKET_MISHRA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MYSURU YOGA SCHOOLS

Sharath Yoga Centre: Enormously in-demand ashtanga courses with Sharath Jois, who usually teaches here four or five months a year.

Ashtanga Saadhana: Ashtanga vinyasa courses with popular Vijay Kumar, who considers yoga a process of simplification of the practitioner.

Yogadarshanam: Practice and teacher-training in ashtanga vinyasa and hatha yoga, including excellent one-month beginners’ course. Moderate prices.

Yoga with Srinatha: Practice and teacher-training in several yoga styles; drop-in classes too.

K Pattabhi Jois Ashtanga Yoga Shala: Ashtanga practice courses with Pattabhi Jois’ daughter Saraswati and her daughter Sharmila.

Yoga Bharata: Mostly four-week courses in hatha and ashtanga vinyasa; drop-in classes available.

EATING & DRINKING IN MYSURU: OUR PICKS

Vinayaka Mylari: Serving dosas since 1938, this fave has a modern branch three doors from the old-fashioned original. 6am-1.30pm & 3-8.30pm ₹

Anokhi Garden Cafe: Tranquil, leafy Gokulam space for perfect breakfast/brunch fare. Good coffee, juices, smoothies. 8am-3pm ₹

Depth ‘n’ Green: Ever-popular little fresh-local-organic Gokulam vegetarian cafe; from lentil soup to vegan cakes and juice cocktails. 9am-9pm ₹

Pelican Pub: Ever-popular watering hole with draught Kingfisher and plenty to eat, in a classic pub interior or airy rear garden room. 8am-10.30pm ₹

Beyond Mysuru

Two of India’s top wildlife-spotting parks, a fascinating trip into the Mysore kingdom at Srirangapatna, fabulous sculpted architecture at Somanathapura.

It’s just 1½ hours’ drive from Mysuru to two of India’s outstanding tiger reserves, Nagarhole and Bandipur, with some of the best wildlife-spotting in the country: tigers, leopards and elephants if you’re lucky, and good chances of seeing plenty of deer, monkeys, varied birds and other creatures. You can visit either or both of these reserves in a there-and-back trip from Mysuru, or en route to Kerala or other parts of Karnataka. Closer to Mysuru you can make close acquaintance with the life and death of the legendary ruler Tipu Sultan at his capital Srirangapatna, and boggle at the sculptural genius of the Hoysala culture from almost a millennium ago at Somanathapura.

Places

Nagarhole Tiger Reserve

Bandipur Tiger Reserve

Srirangapatna

Somanathapura (Somnathpur)

GETTING AROUND

Renting a car and driver is a convenient option. A typical rate from Mysuru is ₹3500 to ₹4000 per day. Buses from Mysore’s Central (KSRTC) Bus Stand will also get you to, or close to, all these places. Accommodation for Nagarhole and Bandipur Tiger Reserves is spread around rural areas, so you may need an autorickshaw or taxi for the final few kilometres.

Nagarhole Tiger Reserve TIME FROM MYSURU: 1½ HRS

Wildlife-watching on land and water

The 643-sq-km Nagarhole (Nagarahole) Tiger Reserve, in the forested hills of southwest Karnataka, is home to some of India’s largest populations of tigers (141 according to the official census in 2022), leopards (around 200) and elephants (roughly 2500). A special attraction here, in addition to land safaris, is boat safaris on the Kabini River, which for much of the year expands into a reservoir about 2km wide. As the Kabini shrinks in the late dry season (February to April), its grassy banks become a magnet for wildlife.

Sightings on land safaris are always a matter of luck. Elephants are a reasonably good bet, and you’re sure to see deer, monkeys and colourful birds. Gaur (large wild cattle), mongooses, giant squirrels and dholes (wild dogs) are all on the cards. Safari drivers keep in touch with each other so if there’s an exciting sighting they will head towards it.

The Kabini water safaris, in comfortable, open-sided boats, give you the chance to see not just any wildlife visiting the riverbanks but also resident otters and birds from kingfishers to cranes to eagles. These trips start from the Kabini River Lodge and are available only to people staying there or at some other resorts.

Land safaris visit the waterside too, and tend to give better tiger-sighting chances because they also visit forest waterholes. If you’re staying at one of the resorts, you will probably get to do both boat and land safaris. These varied adventures help make Nagarhole a good reserve to visit with children.

For in-person land safari bookings, the reserve’s Kakanakote Safari Center ticket office is open from 6am to 9am and 2pm to 6pm.

Most Kabini area accommodation is near Karapura village, 80km southwest of Mysuru on SH33. Buses from Mysuru bound for Mananthawadi (Mananthavady) in Kerala will stop there. Roads through the tiger reserve are closed from 6pm to 6am.

Bandipur Tiger Reserve TIME FROM MYSURU: 1½ HRS

Safaris with abundant wildlife

This 872-sq-km tiger reserve (also a national park) in southern Karnataka has hilly, dry deciduous forests similar to Nagarhole’s Kabini area, and a similar range of wildlife including 150 tigers (according to the 2022 census) and large numbers of elephants and leopards.

Safaris are restricted to a limited area in the park’s southeast, straddling the Mysuru–Ooty (Udhagamandalam) road about 80km south of Mysuru. For animal sightings the ideal months are February to April, when the dry season is peaking and animals are increasingly likely to visit waterholes.

In-person safari bookings can be made at the Bandipur Safari Point beside NH181 about 12km south of Gundlupet. The ticket office opens from 6am to 8am and 2pm to 5pm.

Accommodation clusters just outside the tiger reserve limits, along the NH181 and near Mangala village, 5km east off the NH181. By public transport from Mysuru, take an Ooty-bound bus and get off at the tiger reserve entrance, or at Gundlupet and take an autorickshaw or taxi from there. Roads through the reserve are closed from 9pm to 6am.

BOOKING SAFARIS

Online booking exists for safaris in Nagarhole (nagaraholetigerreserve.com) and Bandipur (bandipurtigerreserve.org) tiger reserves, but systems are clunky, the best seats (in jeeps or canters rather than buses) get booked up far ahead, and sites don’t accept foreign bank cards. The easy option, though it may cost more, is staying at a resort or hotel offering a safari booking service, or packages with safaris included. Another possibility for foreigners is to get someone with access to Indian payment systems to reserve for you. You can also book in person at the reserves’ safari centres: get there before opening time, though the best (or all) options may be booked out. Book as far ahead as you can, including for resort stays.

SRIRANGAPATNA’S FORT ON FOOT

Explore the historic sites where Tipu Sultan, the ‘Tiger of Mysore’, lived and met his end. This 5.5km walk takes approximately four hours. From 1Srirangapatna bus station, pass through the narrow 2 Bengaluru Gate to the 3 Jamia Masjid, with two elegant minarets built by Tipu Sultan. Head north then west to the small 4monument marking the spot where a British officer found Tipu’s body after the day’s battle on 4 May 1799.

Walk down to the riverbank at the 5 Srirangapatna Ghat, then inland to the sad remains of 6 Tipu Sultan’s Palace, demolished by the British. Move on to the very large and old 7 Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, dedicated to a form of Vishnu, who reclines on the coils of serpent god Adishesha in the temple’s main image.

Along the north side of the island is 8 Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon, where British prisoners were chained to the wall, reputedly naked with water up to their necks. Pass under the railway and on to the island’s western point where an 9 obelisk commemorates the British taking of Srirangapatna on 4 May 1799.

Returning, you can cut across the railway station footbridge and then climb up the 10 Flagstaff Bastion for views.

Before or after touring the fort area, don’t neglect to visit Tipu Sultan’s summer palace and family tomb in the eastern half of Srirangapatna island.

Srirangapatna TIME FROM MYSURU: 20 MINS

Tipu Sultan’s island capital

Once upon a time the small town of Srirangapatna, on an island in the Cauvery River 15km north of Mysuru, was capital of the Mysore kingdom – most notably under the 18th-century rulers Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan, when its population reportedly reached 100,000. It went into decline after falling to the British following a month-long siege in 1799.

An exploration of Srirangapatna makes for a fascinating several hours. A bicycle is a good way to tour it: Mysore-based MyCycle Tours does excellent guided rides. Otherwise, buses to Srirangapatna depart every few minutes from Mysore’s Central (KSRTC) Bus Stand. Srirangapatna’s Fort area in the west of the island, with several city gates and much of its mighty walls still standing, is walkable for most people. But hire an autorickshaw (₹300 to ₹400) or taxi to reach two outstanding sights in the east of the island, the wheelchair-friendly Daria Daulat Bagh (Tipu Sultan’s elegant summer palace, with fascinating murals and an excellent museum) and the Gumbaz (the monumental domed mausoleum of Tipu, Hyder and Tipu’s mother Fakr-Un-Nisa).

Somanathapura (Somnathpur) TIME FROM MYSURU: 1 HR

Masterpiece of Hindu art

The Keshava Temple at Somanathapura, 35km east of Mysuru, is an outstanding example of the marvellous sculpture and architecture of the Hoysala kingdom, which ruled most of Karnataka from the 11th to 14th centuries. Set inside a walled compound, the soapstone temple’s entire exterior is encrusted with fascinating detailed carvings of gods, horses, elephants, warriors, musicians, dancers, birds, cattle, sexual positions and more. The more sober interior features amazingly smooth, lathe-turned columns, and three shrines with images of (left to right) Venugopala, Keshava and Janardhana, all forms of Vishnu.

The temple, built in the 1260s, is no longer a place of worship and is under the care of the Archaeological Survey of India. An on-site interpretation centre provides plenty of detailed explanation. Public transport from Mysuru is by bus to Bannur then 8km by autorickshaw. A taxi round trip costs around ₹2000.

Keshava Temple | TATHAART/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HYDER ALI & TIPU SULTAN

Hyder Ali was a commander in the Mysore army who deposed the Wadiyar king in 1761, naming himself Sultan. He expanded Mysore into one of South India’s biggest powers, leaving his son Tipu Sultan a kingdom that stretched from the Eastern Ghats to the Arabian Sea. It had a navy and successfully used early rockets in warfare. Mysore came up against regional rivals, including the British with whom it fought the four Anglo-Mysore Wars. Tipu was a brave and clever general and mostly popular ruler, but was demonised by the British. He lost considerable chunks of territory and was finally defeated and killed when they took his capital Srirangapatna in 1799.

HOYSALA ARCHITECTURE

There’s further superb Hoysala architecture and sculpture at Halebidu and Belur, which along with Somnathapura were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2023.

Western Ghats

HILL COUNTRY | COFFEE | SCULPTED TEMPLES

Almost one-third of the 1500km length of the Western Ghats – the long range of hills paralleling India’s west coast – falls within Karnataka. Separating the coastal plain from the Deccan plateau, and soaking up a great deal of monsoon rain, this is a zone where villages and cultivation on the valley floors give way to luxuriant forests on the lower slopes and then treeless grassy slopes rising to ridges scattered with rock outcrops. The Kodagu (Coorg) and Chikkamagaluru (Chikmagalur) districts here grow India’s best coffee and entice visitors with their greenery, moderate climate, scenic charm, good walks and abundant countryside accommodation – including many coffee estate homestays (often with superb home cooking). En route between Kodagu and Chikkamagaluru you can enjoy a visit to the Hoysala temples at Belur and Halebidu, superlative works of 12th-century Hindu architecture and sculpture that were added to the World Heritage List in 2023.

GETTING AROUND

Frequent buses run to Madikeri and Chikkamagaluru from Bengaluru, Mysuru and (a few times daily) Mangaluru. You then usually need a taxi or autorickshaw to get out to rural accommodation (some places can arrange pickups). For the Yevakapadi/Thadiyandamol area of southern Kodagu, there are frequent buses from Mysuru to Virajpet, from which private buses run to Kakkinakadu and Kakkabe, where you can get an autorickshaw or pickup. Belur and Halebidu are served by fairly frequent buses from Chikkamagaluru, Hassan and each other. A taxi for a day’s tootling around costs approximately ₹4000.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Madikeri Fort

2   Mercara Gold Estate

SIGHTS

3   Bababudangiri Peak

4   Belur Temple

5   Hebbe Falls

6   Hoysaleswara Temple

7   Manikyadhara Waterfall

8   Mullayanagiri

Museum (see 1)

9   Nalknad Palace

Rajas’ Tombs (see 1)

Rajaseat Park (see 1)

10   Sitalayyana Temple

11   Sri Guru Daththreya Baba Budan Swamy Darga

12   Z Point

SLEEPING

13   Clover Leaf Home Stay

14   Halli Berri Cottages

15   Honey Valley

16   Palace Estate

17   The Bungalow 1934

18   Victorian Verandaz

EATING

19   Coffee Barn Cafe

Coorg Cuisine (see 1)

Raintree (see 1)

Kodagu (Coorg)

Climb Kodagu’s highest peak

The walk up Thadiyandamol (Tadiandamol; 1748m) in southern Kodagu is exhilarating and practicable for any reasonably fit person. The partly shaded ascent of 500m takes about two hours, the downhill return trip about 1½ hours. An easily followed path starts from the end of a paved road at View Point Cafe, 6km south of Kakkabe village and 2km past Nalknad Palace. After a checkpoint (Indians/foreigners ₹250/1000) about 20 minutes up, the views get better all the time and the summit panoramas, up and down the Western Ghats and down into Kerala, are marvellous. Afterwards, check out Nalknad Palace, a handsome two-storey residence of the Haleri kings who ruled Kodagu from the 17th to 19th centuries.

Excellent lodgings such as Palace Estate, Bungalow 1934 and Honey Valley make this verdant area an enjoyable Kodagu base.

Coffee Estates

Coffee plantation life

The small Mercara Gold Estate, 8km southwest of Madikeri, is well set up for short visits. You’ll get a plantation walk, visits to their roastery and coffee museum and a cup of coffee, for ₹300. They have a good cafe too.

Many of the places you might stay are set on plantations. At Victorian Verandaz, a homestay 9km east of Madikeri, amiable fifth-generation owner Thimaiah drives you round the large estate in his ancient jeep, and you can observe whatever seasonal activities are going on. There’s a museum here too, and the home cooking is superb! They also offer day visits.

Madikeri

Explore the Kodagu capital

Madikeri (Mercara) is a busy market town spread over several hiils, with lots of shops selling local spices, fruit wines, chocolate and coffee. Rajaseat Park, full of colourful flowers and kitsch decorative features, enjoys superb views. In the town centre, you can walk round most of the walls of Madikeri Fort, founded in 1681. Within the fort, the two-storey rajas’ palace has lately been undergoing restoration, but an 1855 church houses the Government Museum, with artefacts from centuries of Kodagu history. On the northern edge of town there are more vistas from the Rajas’ Tombs, domed mausolea where late Haleri kings and queens are interred.

Rajas’ Tombs, Madikeri | CLAUDINE VAN MASSENHOVE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

COFFEE HARVEST

Of India’s approximately 350,000 tonnes of annual coffee production, Kodagu grows roughly one-third and the Chikkamagaluru district around a quarter. The hardier, caffeine-strong robusta variety is commoner here than more labour-intensive arabica.

Harvesting happens from November to February, with arabica coming first. Growers have two main methods of extracting the twin beans from within each cherry (it’s red when ripe). One is to spread the fruit out in the sun to dry and get rid of the soft outer part by raking and turning. The other is ‘pulping’, where a machine removes the outer fruit then the beans are sun-dried afterwards (sometimes following fermentation in water). Dried beans (known as ‘green beans’) then go for roasting.

Belur & Halebidu

Highpoints of Hindu art

The Hoysala kingdom, ruling most of Karnataka from the 11th to 14th centuries, produced some of India’s outstanding sculpted architecture in the form of temples encrusted with an astounding profusion of deities, animals, nymphs, musicians, dancers and mythological scenes. The World Heritage–listed 12th-century temples at the successive Hoysala capitals, Belur and Halebidu, are both visitable in an easy day trip from Chikkamagaluru or a long one from Kodagu or Mysuru. Excellent information panels (to the left from the entrance at Belur, to the right at Halebidu) explain the architecture and sculpture in detail.

The Belur temple, still a busy place of worship dedicated to Chennakeshava (a form of Vishnu), stands in a walled compound with four other temples. A frieze of elephants runs right round the base of its walls, with up to nine different levels above that. The sculpted scene to the left of the main (east) doorway, with a man holding a large dagger flanked by crowds of people, is thought to show King Vishnuvardhana, who commissioned the temple, and his court. The brackets at the tops of the walls feature superbly carved madakinas (demigod nymphs) including (above Vishnuvardhana) one holding a parrot and another holding a mirror.

The Hoysaleswara temple (also known as Halebidu), in attractive gardens, is in fact a pair of adjoined Shiva temples. Fine large Nandi bull sculptures sit in their own pavilions just east of the main structures, with Surya the sun god in a further small shrine past the southerly Nandi. The temple’s exterior friezes have even more extravagant detail than at Belur, with 11 bands of small-scale carving showing (from the bottom up) elephants, lions, a scroll, horses and riders, another scroll, scenes from the Hindu epics, makaras (mythical aquatic creatures), swans, two levels of nymphs, musicians, warriors, goblins, lions and monsters, and finally secular scenes including some amorous couples.

Chikkamagaluru (Chikmagalur)

Tour the Bababudangiri Hills

The Bababudangiri (or Chandradrona) Hills form a crescent-like eastern spur of the Western Ghats rising north of Chikkamagaluru town. With several scenic viewpoints, they make a good day’s road trip. Head first for Karnataka’s highest peak, Mullayanagiri (1930m), reached by a steepish 15-minute walk from a car park at the end of a ghat road. There’s a small Shiva temple up there and, at weekends, a lot of people. For more of a leg-stretch, start walking 1.5km earlier at the Sitalayyana Temple.

A further 23km drive north is the Sri Guru Daththreya Baba Budan Swamy Darga, a cave shrine sacred to both Muslims and Hindus for its associations with two Sufi saints, Dada Hayath and Baba Budan, and the Hindu deity Daththreya (Dattatreya), who are all to some extent identified with each other. By some accounts Baba Budan, the legendary bringer of the first coffee beans to India, is buried here. Entry to the shrine is via a caged gangway about 90m long. An unpaved road leads on 3km to Manikyadhara Waterfall, believed to have healing properties. After 500m you can detour on foot for a short walk along the crest of the range, dramatically steep on its eastern side. Another side track leads up to Bababudangiri Peak (1895m).

Bababudangiri Peak | SRIDHARSIYAA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BABA BUDAN

The story goes that Baba Budan, a Sufi from the Chikkamagaluru area, took a liking to coffee in the Yemeni port of Mocha on his way home from a pilgrimage to Mecca in 1670. Since exports of unroasted beans from Mocha were banned, he smuggled seven of them out in his beard, and planted them in his courtyard back home. They thrived and thus India discovered coffee. Baba Budan’s revered dargah (tomb) lies in a cave in the hills north of Chikkamagaluru, where the nearby peak Bababudangiri and its entire range (Bababudangiri Hills) are named after him. So are coffee houses and companies as far flung as Baku (Azerbaijan), Novo Hamburgo (Brazil) and Melbourne (Australia)!

EATING & DRINKING IN THE WESTERN GHATS: OUR PICKS

Coorg Cuisine: Sample Kodava dishes such as baimbale curry (bamboo shoots and coconut) at this Madikeri restaurant. noon-4.30pm & 7-9.30pm ₹

Coffee Barn Cafe: Cafe beside SH57 north of Chikkamagaluru. From omelettes to cheesecake, plus juices and excellent coffee. 8.30am-6.30pm ₹

Raintree: Mainly North Indian dishes in a Madikeri colonial-era bungalow, with an excellent coffee cafe out front. 11am-10.30pm ₹₹

Beans n Brews: The Mercara Gold coffee-estate cafe, outside Madikeri, brews good coffee as well as serving Kodagu food. 9am-6pm ₹₹

A mountain hike and a jungle safari

The far northern tip of the Bababudangiri range is called Z Point. Though dramatically steep on some sides, the trail there is an easy, mostly flat, 2km path from a parking area just past the Kemmannugundi Hill Resort, 63km from Chikkamagaluru. Around halfway you pass the small Shanti Falls. Z Point’s sweeping views encompass valley villages spread far below and dense forest behind you. Returning, you can make a slightly more demanding detour (around an hour) up to the crest of the ridge and back, by taking an initially small but clear path up the hillside about 70m before Shanti Falls.

A good follow-up is a safari to Hebbe Falls, a 168m two-stage forest waterfall inside the Bhadra Tiger Reserve. The 2½-hour jeep trips start from a point 1km back down the road from Kemmannugundi Hill Resort. There’s a slim chance of seeing a tiger or leopard (deer and gaur are more likely). Jeeps depart when full (14 passengers, ₹500 per person), or rent a whole one (₹7000).

THE KODAVAS

The Kodava people comprise about one-fifth of the approximately 600,000 population of Kodagu today. Their origins are uncertain but their roots here go back a very long way. Traditionally hunters and rice growers, their society is formed of several hundred patrilineal, exogamous clans, each with an ancestral aine mane (clan house) where they meet for regular ceremonies. Hinduism and Christianity have had some influence in recent centuries but Kodava ceremonies are still led by family elders rather than Brahmin priests. They revere their ancestors as their guiding spirits and their elders as their living guides. Principal deities are the Cauvery River, which rises at Talakaveri, 45km west of Madikeri, and Igguthappa, a god of crops, especially rice.

The Karnataka Coast

BEACH LIFE | FOOD | TEMPLES

Karnataka’s hot and steamy 300km coastline on the Arabian Sea is almost one long, palm-fringed strip of sand, interspersed with intriguing estuaries, backwaters and spits of land. Beware of currents and rip tides on open-ocean beaches.

At the southern end of the coast, Mangaluru, the one sizeable city (still mostly known by its pre-2014 name Mangalore), lacks big-ticket sights despite its history as a port going back at least 1500 years – but it’s a thriving place with a relatively relaxed lifestyle, and exploring its markets, food and places of worship makes for a very interesting experience off the beaten tourist track.

To the north, the famed Hindu temples in Udupi, Murudeshwar and Gokarna draw pilgrims from far and wide. Gokarna, a small town at the far northern end of the coast, is also a delightful, laid-back haven for beach-lovers and backpackers, with its string of glorious sandy strands and plentiful inexpensive accommodation.

GETTING AROUND

Buses and trains run up and down the coast, as does the NH66, one of India’s best highways. Gokarna’s nearest train station is Gokarna Rd (9km east), with a handful of express trains daily. Ankola, 22km north of Gokarna, has further options, and more frequent bus services than Gokarna.

Mangaluru has quite a busy airport with both domestic and international flights, making it an entry point for northern Kerala as well as Karnataka. If you’re staying a while in Gokarna, consider renting a scooter.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Mangalore Fish Market

2   Om Beach

SIGHTS

3   Gokarna Beach

4   Gokarnanatha Temple

5   Half Moon Beach

6   Kadri Manjunatha Temple

7   Krishna Temple

8   Kudle Beach

9   Mahabaleshwara Temple

10   Mahaganapati Temple

11   Paradise Beach

12   Shri Murudeshwar Temple

13   St Aloysius College Chapel

14   Tannirbhavi Beach

15   Zeenath Baksh Juma Masjid

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

16   Arya Ayurvedic Panchakarma Centre

17   Cocopelli Surf School & Guest House

18   Gokarna Yoga School

19   Mantra Surf Club

20   Shree Hari Yoga

SLEEPING

21   Hotel Manorama

22   Namaste Cafe

23   Namaste Yoga Farm

24   Nirvana Cafe

25   Strawberry Farmhouse

26   SwaSwara

27   Vivanta Mangalore Oldport Road

EATING

28   Ananda Cafe

29   Ayur Restaurant

30   Chez Christophe

31   Gajalee

32   Garden Cafe

33   Girimanja’s

34   Machali

35   Namaste Cafe

36   Nirvana Café

37   Sunset Point

38   Tribe Village

39   Woodlands

SHOPPING

40   Dhakke Fish Market

41   Flower Market

42   Hampankatta Market

TOP TIP

There’s no need to haggle over autorickshaw fares in Mangaluru: drivers there (and most in Udupi too) turn on their meters without even being asked to! Not in Gokarna though.

Mangaluru (Mangalore)

Fish, flowers and fruit

Dive into Mangaluru’s markets to get a feel for the thriving commerce that underpins the city’s life. Head out early (around sunrise) to the dockside fish markets – a fantastically colourful, active scene of hundreds of men and women unloading, carrying, freezing, selling, buying, cutting, sorting and packing fish from dozens of bright-red fishing boats triple-parked at the quay. The open-air Mangalore Fish Market and the bigger, covered Dhakke Fish Market are 150m apart but the whole dockside merges into one scene of bustle and activity – and more fish than you’ve probably ever seen in your life. For a guided tour, consider Magic Tours of India’s three-hour ‘Good Morning Mangalore’, which covers the fish and two other markets plus prayers at a temple (₹9500 for two people).

Another highly colourful scene is the Flower Market in a hall dating from 1942 on Car St, a dazzle of coloured garlands and blooms. It gets going early too, opening at 6am. The large Hampankatta Market nearby, wholesaling fruit, vegetables and spices, has been under reconstruction but hopefully will be brimming with action again by the time you get there. Its nearby streets are full of diverse small shops.

Flower Market | BALAJISRINIVASAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Centres of faith

Mangaluru is rich in temples, churches and mosques. For contrasting senses of Hindu devotion, head to the Kadri Manjunatha and Gokarnanatha temples. St Aloysius College Chapel stands out among Managluru’s churches for its vivid frescoes painted by Italian Antonio Moscheni between 1899 and 1901. The Zeenath Baksh Juma Masjid is reckoned to be India’s third-oldest mosque, founded in 646. Its wooden main prayer hall has beautiful carved pillars and ceilings.

On and off the beach

There are long, golden sands at Tannirbhavi Beach, a 12km drive (about ₹300 by autorickshaw) north of central Mangaluru. With sometimes strong waves and ocean currents, these seas are for paddling rather than swimming. Busy on weekends.

To get out on the water, head to Mantra Surf Club (open September to May) at Mulki, about 25km north of Mangaluru. India’s original surf school (since 2004), it has calm backwaters as well as open ocean on its doorstep so you can do stand-up paddling (SUP) and kayaking as well as surfing. Waves are rarely more than 1m so it’s a good place to learn. There’s a friendly vibe, comfortable accommodation for people doing multi-day courses, and boards for rent to experienced surfers. It was founded as an ashram by a Hare Krishna guru and lifelong surfer, Jack Hebner, aka Surfing Swami. Team members still follow the ISKCON lifestyle; smoking, alcohol and drugs are banned.

MANGALORE & UDUPI CUISINES

Mangaluru is justly famed for its spicy seafood curries, which come in several varieties: panna upkari uses just onions, chilli and tamarind; hinga udda includes coconut and the pungent spice hing (asafoetida); puli-munchi means tamarind-chilli and that’s what it is, plus other spices. Other favourite preparations are ghee roast – seafood or chicken roasted with spices in ghee (clarified butter) – and masala fry (slow-fried or roasted in a spicy masala sauce).

Udupi, 55km north of Mangaluru, gives its name to a cuisine of vegetarian dishes including the dosa, which some claim (and others deny) was invented there, idlis, sambar (coconut-based sauce often accompanying idlis) and kosambari (seasoned salad of lentils or other pulses).

EATING IN MANGALURU & UDUPI: OUR PICKS

Girimanja’s: Authentic Mangalorean food in simple surrounds (Mangaluru). Try any prawn dish. Be prepared to queue. 11.30am-3pm ₹

Woodlands: Excellent veg fare including filling thalis, with attentive service by cheerful staff (Udupi). 8.30am-3.15pm & 5.30-10.30pm ₹

Machali: Popular Mangalore-cuisine restaurant (Mangaluru). Try a fried or ghee-roast fish. 11.30am-3.30pm & 7-10pm ₹₹

Gajalee: Top seafood restaurant in a panoramic bungalow (Mangaluru). Go for prawns in butter, pepper and garlic. 11am-3.30pm & 6.30-11pm ₹₹₹

Gokarna

Beach bliss

There are two Gokarnas. One is the atmospheric little town with two very sacred, ancient temples drawing many Hindu pilgrims. The other is the series of ravishing sandy beaches that draws travellers for relaxed seaside sojourns – a place to slow down, take walks and watch sunsets. The many beachfront cafes and restaurants mostly have inexpensive rooms in the back.

Four great beaches are scattered round the headland south of town. Roads reach within a few minutes’ walk of three of them. They’re all linked by picturesque walking paths, but some stretches are quite isolated so it’s probably best not to walk them alone.

Nearest to Gokarna town (1.5km) is Kudle Beach, a 700m, broad, west-facing strip between wooded headlands. Restaurants and guesthouses are dotted along the beach, but they’re well spaced and development remains low-key.

Next is the exceptionally beautiful, south-facing Om Beach, its 800m forest-backed length composed of one short and two longer crescents bearing a (vague) resemblance to an Om symbol. It’s 4km or 6km by road from town (depending on route), or 3km walking via Kudle Beach. Restaurants and guesthouses are more scattered than at Kudle. Signs officially ban swimming but plenty of people do swim when the sea is not choppy.

Little Half Moon Beach, a curve of powdery sand with some basic hut accommodation, is 700m by forest path east of Om Beach (about 20 minutes). There’s no road access here. Paradise Beach, another sandy cove, is 700m past Half Moon. The walk along the rocky shore can take half an hour; a better though tricky-to-locate path takes an inland route above the coast. There are a couple of cafes, and kayaks for rent, here; some basic accommodation may appear in season (November to February). Boats from the west end of Om Beach will ferry people out to Half Moon and Paradise (₹4000 for up to 10 people to Paradise). Sadly, noisy boatloads can disturb the calm of the outlying beaches.

The main Gokarna Beach stretches several kilometres straight as a die north from Gokarna town. Beyond the grungier town end, this is a beautiful, broad, palm-fringed stretch of sand with lots of good-value beachside restaurants and inexpensive guesthouses – but these open-ocean waters are perilous for swimmers. They are, however, good for surfing: Cocopelli Surf School & Guest House is a reputable surf school run by internationally certified instructor Sandeep Samuel, and has good, clean, fan-cooled rooms.

Kudle Beach | PRASATH_P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

TEMPLES OF THE COAST

Kadri Manjunatha Temple (Mangaluru): Dedicated to Shiva, with an atmosphere of hushed reverence.

Gokarnanatha Temple (Mangaluru): Joyfully colourful Shiva temple with many glittering shrines honouring other deities too.

Krishna Temple (Udupi): In an atmosphere of deep reverence and awe, Krishna is worshipped here in his child form Balakrishna.

Shri Murudeshwar Temple (Murudesh-war): The world’s third-tallest Shiva statue and second-tallest gopuram (gateway tower).

Mahabaleshwara Temple (Gokarna): Home to a particularly powerful Shiva lingam; non-Indians may not enter the inner shrine.

Mahaganapati Temple (Gokarna): Houses a rare standing Ganesh statue.

EATING IN GOKARNA: OUR PICKS

Tribe Village: Good Indian dishes plus a few surprises. Also espresso, beer, cocktails. North end, Kudle Beach. 8am-11pm ₹₹

Ayur Restaurant: Kudle south-end beachfront restaurant preparing fine vegetarian fare. Purified water refills too. 8am-10pm ₹

Ananda Cafe: Good-value, friendly spot on Gokarna main beach covering bases from thalis to pancakes to sizzlers to pasta. 8am-10.30pm ₹

Sunset Point: Family-run place at Om Beach’s east end. Breakfasts, pasta, Indian and Chinese dishes; grilled prawns are ₹300. 8am-9.30pm ₹₹

YOGA & AYURVEDA IN GOKARNA

Shree Hari Yoga: Well-regarded school behind Kudle Beach with varied drop-in yoga classes as well as yin yoga and multi-style teacher-training courses.

Namaste Yoga Farm: Twice-daily yoga sessions for beginners upwards are included with stays at this friendly German-owned retreat above Kudle Beach (December to March).

SwaSwara: Deluxe ayurveda retreat above Om Beach with accommodation in delightful villas with private mini-gardens and yoga decks.

Gokarna Yoga School: Iyengar yoga classes with certified Italian teachers above Kudle Beach, November to March.

Arya Ayurvedic Panchakarma Centre: Courses of ayurvedic treatment by professional staff, tailored to individual needs, on Kudle Beach.

EATING IN GOKARNA: OUR PICKS

Garden Cafe: The wood-oven pizzas are a big draw but curries and fruit salads are excellent too. Fills up fast. North end, Kudle Beach. 8.30am-11pm ₹

Namaste Cafe: Attractive double-deck affair with good breakfasts, seafood, pasta, salads, cold beer and wonderful views along Om Beach. 8am-noon, 1-4.30pm & 7-10.30pm ₹₹

Nirvana Cafe: Does well with a global menu and plenty of drinks including cold Kingfisher. On the sands’ edge, eastern Om Beach. 8am-5pm & 6-10pm ₹₹

Chez Christophe: Quality, relaxed French place on Gokarna main beach. Fresh salads, chicken Normande, profiteroles... 10.30am-4.30pm & 7-11pm Thu-Tue Aug-May ₹₹

Hampi

ABANDONED CITY | SURREAL LANDSCAPE | TRAVELLER SCENE

Once an imperial capital of half a million people, Hampi is today one of the world’s most atmospheric and beautiful ruined cities, with large, superbly sculpted structures spread over a huge area. Its otherworldly setting among hills of huge reddish-brown boulders is a big part of its appeal.

The old city, Vijayanagar, ruled nearly all of South India at its imperial peak under King Krishnadevaraya. It was conquered and trashed after its army was defeated by an alliance of Deccan sultanates at the Battle of Talikota (1565) – and then abandoned, leaving enough buildings intact or semi-intact to enable visitors 460 years later to appreciate its former glory. Hampi isn’t just the ruins, though. With all those rocks, it’s a big climbing centre, and with its relaxed vibe, surreal scenery and good-value lodgings, not to mention a certain herb, it’s a place a lot of backpackers and long-term travellers choose for an extended stay.

GETTING AROUND

Most people’s gateway to Hampi is Hosapete (Hospet), 12km southwest, which has long-distance rail and bus services and half-hourly daytime bus service to Hampi. Vidyanagar (Jindal Vijaynagar) airport, 37km southeast of Hampi, has flights to/from Bengaluru and Hyderabad. One overnight KSRTC bus runs from Hampi Bazaar to Panaji (Goa).

Decent if gearless bicycles are available to rent for ₹150 to ₹200 per day. Scooters cost ₹300 to ₹500 a day: many lodgings can organise them for you. There’s also a scooter rental point 150m up from the north side of the Hampi Bazaar ferry. Your accommodation can usually get you an autorickshaw for a day for around ₹1000 to ₹1200.

SIGHTS

1   Achyutaraya Temple

2   Ahmed Khan’s Mosque & Tomb

3   Archaeological Museum

4   Durga Temple

5   Elephant Stables

6   Hanuman Temple

7   Hazararama Temple

8   Hemakuta Hill

9   Krishna Temple

10   Lakshmi Narasimha

11   Lotus Mahal

12   Mahanavami Dibba

13   Malyavanta Hill

14   Matanga Hill

15   Nandi Statue

16   Queen’s Bath

17   Royal Enclosure

18   Virupaksha Temple

19   Vittala Temple

20   Zenana Enclosure

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

21   Kampabhupa Path

22   Tom’s Hampi Adventures

SLEEPING

23   Clarks Inn

24   Epic Island Hampi

25   Padma Guest House

26   Shankar Homestay

27   Wanderlust

EATING

28   Dream Catcher

29   Ganesh Old Chillout

30   Mango Tree

SHOPPING

31   Banana Fibre Workshop

32   Uramma Crafts

INFORMATION

33   Sri Uma Travels

TOP TIP

The nearest ATMs to Hampi Bazaar are in Kamalapuram (three) and Anegundi (one). There’s no guarantee they will work with your particular card! Hampi Bazaar’s few travel agencies can often change cash as well as (usefully) make transport bookings. North of the river, Sri Uma Travels on the Sanapur–Hanumanahalli road is good.

Exploring over the River

Villages, swims, hills to climb

The north side of the Tungabhadra River is a low-key rural area with villages among rice fields, palm groves and of course rock-covered hills, ripe for exploration by scooter or bicycle. Three small passenger ferries cross the river, 7am to 5pm, and will carry bicycles: from the bathing ghats at Hampi Bazaar, from a spot west of the Vittala Temple (to Hanumanahalli village), and from the road-end north of the Vittala Temple car park (to Anegundi).

At Hampi Waterfalls, 400m down a road from Sanapur village then a few minutes’ rocky walk, the Tungabhadra tumbles down some rocks and people like to jump off high rocks into river pools when the water’s deep enough. Sanapur Lake has a swimming spot from some flattish rocks, just after the bridge 150m past the end of its dam. Some rock-jumping happens at the lake too.

Eastward, past Hanumanahalli village, 570 steps climb panoramic Anjanadri Hill. Many believe this area is Kishkinda, the homeland of the monkey god Hanuman, and there’s a Hanuman temple near the hilltop. You’re certainly likely to encounter plenty of impish monkeys on the hill. A further 3km east, Anegundi village was briefly the Vijayanagar kingdom’s first headquarters, and has some historic atmosphere. Check out the Banana Fibre Workshop where women weave (and sell) baskets, mats and hats using banana bark, and nearby Uramma Crafts shop. You can walk up the hill on the village’s west side to explore the remains of Anegundi Fort, which includes an ancient Durga Temple.

Climb a Rock

Boulders for all

Did someone say boulders? Liberally scattered with rocks of all shapes and sizes, Hampi is a climbers’ adventure playground and the undisputed bouldering capital of India. Even if you’ve never tried the sport before, several experienced, friendly local outfits such as Hanumanahalli-based Tom’s Hampi Adventures and Sanapur-based Thimmaclimb will take you for a 2½- or three-hour session with the necessary equipment and help you get up – and down! – some of those tricky-looking rocks (normal price: ₹1000 per person). They also rent gear and lead hikes around the amazing countryside.

HAMPI ACCOMMODATION

While some old Hampi Bazaar accommodation has been deemed illegal and demolished, several basic budget guesthouses remain in the Janatha Plot area immediately northeast of the Virupaksha Temple, and southeast of the temple.

Another favourite budget hangout was Virupapur Gaddi, aka Hippie Island, across the Tungabhadra River from Hampi Bazaar. All guesthouses and restaurants here were demolished in 2020 but a good amount of budget and midrange accommodation (including some relocated from Hippie Island) is scattered around nearby villages such as Sanapur and Hanumanahalli.

There are also some pleasant rural homestays around Kadirampur village about 3km southwest of Hampi Bazaar. Upper-end accommodation is mostly further south, in and around Kamalapuram and the unappealing city of Hosapete (Hospet).

EATING IN HAMPI: OUR PICKS

Mango Tree: All-veg, mainly Indian dishes (thalis are great) in an open-sided Kamalapuram space. 8am-9.30pm ₹

Ganesh Old Chillout: Hampi Bazaar spot with low cushioned seating doing everything from breakfast to pasta to thalis. 8am-10pm ₹₹

Dream Catcher: Friendly veg Hampi Bazaar rooftop restaurant with pancakes, paneer tikka, Greek salad, pizza and views across the river. 8.30am-10.30pm ₹

Wanderlust: The airy restaurant at this accommodation near Hanumanahalli is relaxed and sociable, with a multi-cuisine menu. ₹₹

TOP SIGHT

Hampi Ruins

The remains of the great city of Vijayanagar are scattered over a vast area in a landscape that only enhances their beauty and mystique. It’s possible to tour the most outstanding monuments in one day, but far more rewarding to give yourself several days to explore some of the 3000-odd other structures and soak up Hampi’s unique atmosphere at your own pace.

Hemakuta | ROMTEA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DON’T MISS

Virupaksha Temple

Vittala Temple

Hemakuta Hill

Zenana Enclosure

Achyutaraya Temple

Lakshmi Narasimha Statue

Archaeological Museum

Hampi Bazaar

Hampi village (or Hampi Bazaar as it’s often called), at the monumental area’s northwest corner, is dominated by the Virupaksha Temple, of 7th-century origins – the only one of the old city’s major temples that’s still an active place of worship. You enter through its magnificent 50m-high, 11-tier gopuram (where you’ll be lent a sarong if you’re showing too much leg). A second gopuram leads into the inner compound, centred on a pillared mandapa (pavilion) dating from 1510 with superb sculptures of multiple motifs – a typical feature of Vijayanagar architecture. Yalis (mythical beasts combining features of different animals) adorn the outer pillars. Behind the mandapa is the inner sanctum, dedicated to Virupaksha, an incarnation of Shiva.

Stretching 750m east from the temple is a long straight street lined with stone pavilions. This was the original Hampi Bazaar: 600 years ago it was a market. All Vijayanagar’s major temples had markets stretched out in front of them. Walking along this one gives some idea of the city’s size and importance back then. Even commoners and bazaar artisans wore pearls and jewels on their ears, necks, arms and fingers, noted the 15th-century Persian traveller Abd al-Razzag Samarqandi. Some of the pavilions here were still small shops or food stalls until a few years ago when the Hampi World Heritage authorities decided to demolish such businesses. At the far end of the avenue a pavilion signposted ‘Monolithic Bull’ houses a large statue of the bull Nandi, Shiva’s vehicle, facing back towards the Virupaksha Temple.

Hemakuta Hill

Rising to the south of the Virupaksha Temple, the smooth granite slopes of Hemakuta are scattered not just with huge boulders but also more than 30 shrines and temples. It’s a popular place to be at sunset, but don’t let the crowds put you off as the views are wonderful. Many of the structures predate the Vijayanagar empire (founded in 1336).

Krishna Temple & Lakshmi Narasimha

A short distance south of Hemakuta Hill, the large Krishna Temple, built around 1513, has another long market avenue stretching out in front. Not far south you’ll find the Lakshmi Narasimha statue, an extraordinary goggle-eyed representation of Vishnu’s man-lion incarnation Narasimha. His four arms and his consort Lakshmi have gone, but her name remains.

Lakshmi Narasimha statue | SHIVRAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GET ORIENTED

The ruins of old Vijayanagar are scattered over a vast area, but the main monuments are mostly concentrated in two zones. One, known as the Sacred Centre, is the area around and east of Hampi village, on the south side of the Tungabhadra River. The other, the Royal Centre, is 1km to 2km further south, towards Kamalapuram village.

TOP TIPS

• The best months for visiting are October to January, when the weather is dry and not too hot.

• The only sites with an entry fee are the Vittala Temple, Zenana Enclosure and Archaeological Museum. One ticket (SAARC and Bimstec ₹40, others ₹600) covers them all for same-day entry.

• The monuments are open from sunrise to sunset.

• The Vittala Temple and Zenana Enclosure are wheelchair-friendly. The Royal Enclosure has a ramp that avoids all except the last three of the steps up to the Mahanavami Dibba.

• Explore Hampi (explorehampi.com) does well-recommended tours of Hampi ruins and area, on varied themes.

Achyutaraya Temple & Matanga Hill

You can reach the Achyutaraya Temple by walking 500m over a little pass from the east end of Hampi Bazaar, or along the Achyutaraya’s own 350m bazaar street leading south from the Khampabhupa Path. The Achyutaraya sits in a bowl between hills, slightly off the main trails, and receives correspondingly fewer visitors. Its main entrance is from the north through two partly ruined gopurams. The pillared hall to the right inside the first gopuram has some superb relief carving – animals, plants, deities including Krishna dancing with a snake – and there are more on the central hall, which housed the temple’s main idol (a form of Vishnu).

From the compound’s west side a small path leads round behind the south end where a large rock-cut image of the goddess Kali is still a brightly painted object of devotion for local people. Another path winds up Matanga Hill, from whose summit you can survey the landscape for kilometres around: another superb sunset (or sunrise) spot, slightly harder work to get up to than Hemakuta Hill.

Vittala Temple

The Vittala Temple is, possibly excepting the Virupaksha Temple, Hampi’s most celebrated building – chiefly because of the fabulously carved stone chariot standing in its courtyard (and appearing on the ₹50 banknote). The chariot’s wheels used to rotate and it was previously topped by a tower. It is in fact a shrine to the man-eagle Garuda, the vehicle of the temple’s presiding deity Vishnu.

The pavilion beyond the chariot (the entrance hall to the inner sanctum) was built in 1554, only a decade before Vijayanagar’s fall, and contains some of the most exquisite Vijayanagar sculpture. Its front section, with central colonnettes producing different musical notes when tapped, has lately been closed for renovations, but there’s plenty of fascinating work in the rear part, including reliefs of lovers, human and elephant dancers and what appear to be clowns and wrestlers. On the low frieze round the pavilion’s exterior look for Portuguese horse trainers, recognisable by their curved caps.

You can reach the Vittala either by walking 2km along the Kampabhupa Path on the south bank of the Tungabhadra from Hampi Bazaar, or along the 1.2km straight Vittala Bazaar road from the temple’s car park on the Kamalapuram–Anegundi road. Motor vehicles are not allowed on the Bazaar road, but electric buggies shuttle people back and forth. Wheelchairs are available at the temple.

Vittala Temple | ROOP_DEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LEARNING & LUNCH

It’s well worth making the journey to the Archaeological Museum in Kamalapuram village, 4.5km southeast of Hampi village. Its very fine (and well-explained) sculptures, large models of the whole Hampi valley and the Royal Enclosure, and excellent info panels are very enlightening on Vijayanagar’s history, geography, art and lifestyle. While here, you can take the opportunity to enjoy a meal at the Mango Tree, probably the Hampi area’s best restaurant.

Royal Centre

The Royal Centre contains remains of numerous buildings presumed to have been used by Vijayanagar’s ruling class. It seems to have suffered the worst at the hands of the post-Talikota plunderers, and a lot of what’s here has only been laid bare by archaeologists since the 1970s.

You enter the Royal Centre from the Hampi–Kamalapuram road. First up on the right is the so-called Queen’s Bath, a tank surrounded by pretty arcades and balconies (deceptively plain on the outside). Some 350m further, on your left, is the entrance to the Royal Enclosure, a walled precinct roughly 300m square. In its near (northeast) corner stands the Mahanavami Dibba, a platform from which royalty are thought to have conducted Dussehra and other festivities. It’s faced with wonderful carvings of horses (with riders and handlers), elephants, monkeys, camels, dancers, musicians, warriors, swans, deer and more. The space it overlooks includes several water tanks (notably the beautiful Black Stone Pushkarani) and the King’s Audience Hall, a platform reckoned to have supported a 100-pillared hall.

The Hazararama Temple, 100m further north, is more intact than other nearby structures and has superb carvings: the entire Ramayana round the outer walls of its inner sanctum, festival processions on its external walls.

Continue to the Zenana Enclosure, a compound named as if it was the royal women’s quarters (though there’s no actual evidence for that). It has three watchtowers, a treasury building, a palace basement and the Lotus Mahal, a building of uncertain purpose but exquisite beauty in its rippling lines of foliated arches. A doorway in the back of the Zenana Enclosure leads out to a handsome row of 11 domed Elephant Stables, in Indo-Islamic style.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

You won’t meet very many other visitors around these sites off the Kamalapuram–Vittala Temple road. Malyavanta Hill is a great viewpoint, with Malyavanta Raghunatha Temple near its summit. Ahmed Khan’s Mosque & Tomb was built in 1439 in Vijayanagar’s Islamic quarter by an officer in its army.

You can reach this area from the Hampi Bazaar side along a 4km cyclable track that heads east 350m south of the Krishna Temple and comes out 650m north of the Ahmed Khan turn-off. It runs beside an irrigation channel through classic Hampi landscape. Probably best not to take it alone.

Badami & Beyond

CAVE TEMPLES | HINDU SCULPTURE | ARCHITECTURAL LABORATORY

It’s all about the Chalukyas at Badami. This Hindu dynasty rose to prominence here in the 6th century CE and within 100 years had taken control of a large chunk of southern and central India, encompassing most of what are now the states of Karnataka, Maharashtra, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh. They produced some of India’s most remarkable sculptural art in a set of caves, and built a huge number of temples at Badami and nearby Pattadakal and Aihole; they amount to a living textbook of early Hindu temple styles. A couple of days exploring these monuments also enables you to enjoy remarkable hilly Deccan scenery, especially the high sandstone bluffs around Badami, and get a feel for small-town Deccan life.

The Badami Chalukyas succumbed to the Rashtrakutas in the 750s, though Chalukya successor states soldiered on for a few more centuries elsewhere (and one of them, the Western Chalukyas, built a few late temples at Badami).

GETTING AROUND

A day trip of about six hours to Pattadakal and Aihole costs around ₹1200 by autorickshaw or ₹2200 by taxi. You can usually throw in Mahakuta, another Chalukya site, for the same price or slightly more. Buses run half-hourly or hourly from Badami to Pattadakal and to Aihole, but only a couple a day connect the two villages. Badami has a few daily bus and rail services to/from Hosapete (Hampi), Vijayapura, Hubballi and other destinations. Badami’s bus station is on Station Rd near the town centre; the train station is 4km further north.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Cave Temples

SIGHTS

2   Agastha Theertha

3   Archaeological Museum

4   Bhutanatha Temple

5   Malagitti Shivalaya

6   North Fort

SLEEPING

7   Heritage Resort

EATING

8   Bridge

Heritage Restaurant (see 7)

9   Hotel Mayura Chalukya

TRANSPORT

10   Bus Station

TOP TIP

The riches of Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole lie in their Hindu architecture and sculpture. It’s worth reading up on what you’re going to see, or hiring an authorised guide at the sites.

Caverns of the Gods

Exploring the Badami cave temples

Badami’s famous cave temples line up along the foot of a cliff above the southwest corner of the picturesque 5th-century Agastha Theertha tank. All four have the same basic layout. A two-part verandah or porch stretches across the cave mouth, the inner part being larger and often containing superhuman-sized deity figures up to 3m high. Behind this is a hall of sculpted pillars and then, hollowed out in the cave’s back wall, the shrine. Caves 1 to 3 were carved out in the 6th century.

Cave 1 is dedicated to Shiva, who appears on the wall to the right outside the porch as Nataraja (the cosmic dancer) striking 18 dance moves in one captivating pose. The main porch has a huge figure of Ardhanarishvara, a combination of Shiva and his consort Parvati, on the right, and Harihara, half Shiva and half Vishnu, on the left.

Cave 2 is dedicated to Vishnu, who appears on the right wall of the porch as his incarnation Trivikrama, and on the left wall as the boar Varaha (the emblem of the Chalukya kingdom).

The largest and most impressive is Cave 3. The outer porch has an eight-armed Vishnu on the left, and Vishnu as Trivikrama on the right, with a pot-bellied Garuda, Vishnu’s man-eagle vehicle, on the ceiling. In the inner porch, Vishnu sitting on the snake Ananta and Vishnu as Varaha appear on the left; Vishnu’s lion avatar Narasimha, plus Harihara, are on the right.

Carved in the early 7th century, Cave 4 is a Jain temple. On the left of the main porch stands Bahubali, son of the first tirthankar Adinath, with plants growing up his body during his 12-year meditation. The 24th tirthankar Mahavir sits in lotus position in the inner shrine.

Explore Beyond the Caves

Badami’s lake and fort

There’s an enjoyable two or three hours to be spent checking out other sites. Start with Badami’s good Archaeological Museum, near the Agastha Theertha’s northwest corner, then head to the Bhutanatha (Bhootnath) Temple and carved rocks beyond it, at the lake’s east end. Back at the museum, climb the path to the North Fort, with two Chalukyan Shiva temples. Finally, there’s Badami’s best-preserved early Chalukyan building, the Malagitti Shivalaya temple, accessed from the town.

DRAVIDIAN VIMANAS, NAGARA SHIKHARAS

The early Chalukyan temples at Pattadakal, Aihole and Badami date from a time when distinctly different South and North Indian styles of temple architecture were emerging. The most obvious difference is in the shape of the tower above the temple’s inner sanctum. In the southern (Dravidian) style this is a pyramidal set of stepped tiers called a vimana. In the northern Nagara style it’s a curvilinear tower called a shikhara. Slightly confusingly, shikharas also crop up on South Indian temples, but in these cases the word refers to a dome-shaped cap atop a vimana. Vesara and Kadamba refer to towers that are a mix of northern and southern styles.

North Meets South

The royal temples of Pattadakal

Pattadakal village, 21km east of Badami by road, is home to a World Heritage–listed cluster of 8th-century Chalukyan temples that may have been created as a religious and coronation centre for the Badami royalty. Dedicated to Shiva, they contain superb stone sculpture, and are considered mature forms of the more experimental styles at Badami and Aihole.

Most of the temples are in one grassy compound with informative signboards. Four of the first five temples – Kadasiddeshwara, Jambulinga, Galaganatha and Kasivishveshvara – are clear examples of the curvilinear-towered northern Nagara style. The other three (Sangamesvara, Mallikarjuna, Virupaksha) have southern (Dravidian) stepped pyramidal vimanas. The Virupaksha Temple is the largest and considered a perfect example of the Dravidian style.

Discovering the Hundred-Temple Village

The architectural gems of Aihole

Little Aihole has around 100 temples scattered among its houses. Some of its earliest temples, without significant towers, seem to be stone versions of rural wood-roofed temples. The latest of these, the Jain Meguti Temple (634 CE), stands on a small hill ascended by 118 steps with views over the village roofs.

Don’t miss the 6th-century Ravanaphadi cave temple, with marvellous large-scale sculptures, on the village’s eastern side. On the left of its entrance hall a 2m-high Shiva, between Parvati and Ganesh, dances with a snake in two of his hands while the seven saptamatrikas (a group of mother goddesses) groove along with him. In the inner hall you have Vishnu as Varaha and Mahishamardini (Durga killing the demon buffalo Mahisha).

Aihole’s central Durga group of temples displays all the stylistic variety that has earned Aihole the ‘architectural laboratory’ tag. Here you have, among others, early towerless temples such as the Gaudara Gudi and (debatably) the Ladkhan; the Suryanarayana Gudi with a shikhara tower; and the unique Durga Temple itself, whose semicircular west end resembles some Buddhist temples. It has some of the site’s best sculpture around its ambulatory (clockwise from the porch: Shiva with Nandi, Narasimha, Vishnu with Garuda, Varaha, Mahishamardini, Vishnu).

VISHNU’S AVATARS

Vishnu, the preserver and protector in the Hindu Trimurti (trinity), is commonly said to have 10 avatars (incarnations), which saved the world from different perils. Krishna and Rama are the two best-known. You’re likely to encounter several others in Karnataka travels. Varaha the boar raised the world from the bottom of the sea with his tusks. Narasimha the man-lion killed the havoc-dealing demon Hiranyakashipu. Trivikrama, aka Vamana the dwarf, turned into a giant to rid the universe of the demon king Bali. Keshava, or Chennakeshava, is a form of Vishnu as Krishna: he slew the horse-demon Keshi. Ranganatha or Ranganathaswamy is the name given to Vishnu resting on the coils of the snake Adishesha.

EATING IN BADAMI: OUR PICKS

Bridge: Air-conditioned, town-centre, midrange restaurant in Clarks Inn hotel, reliable for veg and non-veg Indian and some Western dishes. 12.30-11pm ₹₹

Heritage Restaurant: Even if you’re not staying the night, worth a trip for an Indian veg meal in peaceful surrounds. 7-10am, 12.30-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm ₹

Hotel Mayura Chalukya: The restaurant at this state-government-run hotel does dependable Indian meals. ₹

Vijayapura (Bijapur)

MONUMENTAL MAUSOLEUMS | HISTORY | MOSQUES

A historic city epitomising the Deccan’s era of Islamic dominance, Vijayapura (historically known as Bijapur) was capital of arguably the most powerful of the five Deccan sultanates formed when the Bidar-based Bahmani sultanate broke up between 1490 and 1528. Bijapur’s ruling Adil Shahi dynasty devoted a lot of energy and money to beautifying their city with mosques, palaces, gardens and tombs, and it’s this legacy that draws travellers today. At its peak the Bijapur sultanate controlled a large chunk of central India including Goa, and it was a leader of the alliance of Deccan sultanates that destroyed the Vijayanagar empire and its capital at Hampi in 1565. Today Hindus outnumber Muslims by roughly two to one in Vijayapura’s population of approximately 350,000, and it’s a centre for the Lingayat brand of Shaivism, which emphasises an intimate personal relationship with the deity.

GETTING AROUND

Vijayapura is well connected to other cities by bus and train, including frequent buses from the centrally located bus stand to Hosapete (for Hampi) and several a day to Panaji (Goa), plus buses and trains to Badami. While you can certainly walk between some of the city’s main sites of interest, they’re too spread out for most people to comfortably cover all of them in a day on foot. Autorickshaws are plentiful and you could hire one for a day for ₹1000 to ₹1200.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Gol Gumbaz

SIGHTS

2   Archaeological Museum

3   Bara Kaman

4   Citadel

5   Gagan Mahal

6   Ibrahim Rouza

7   Jama Masjid

SLEEPING

8   Hotel Madhuvan International

9   Kyriad Hotel

EATING

10   Artha Coffee & Co

Hotel Madhuvan International (see 8)

11   Qaswa Hills

SHOPPING

12   Central Market

TRANSPORT

13   Bus Stand

TOP TIP

In the heart of the Deccan, Vijayapura gets pretty hot by early afternoon, so it pays to set out on your explorations good and early.

Discovering the Adil Shahis’ City

The great monuments of Vijayapura

Proceeding from east to west makes sense as you’ll start with the grandest and finish with the most beautiful.

The Gol Gumbaz (the name means Round Dome) awes with its sheer size: a grand dome on a 47m square building with seven-tier corner towers sporting their own mini-domes. It’s the mausoleum of the seventh Bijapur sultan, Mohammed Adil Shah (r 1627–56), his two wives, his mistress (Rambha), a daughter and a grandson. From the cavernous interior, climb 120 steps inside the southeast tower to the ‘whispering gallery’ round the base of the dome, with incredible acoustics. A building in front of the Gol Gumbaz houses Vijayapura’s worthwhile Archaeological Museum.

Gol Gumbaz | LALAM PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

It’s 1.4km to the Jama Masjid, the city’s largest mosque, commissioned in 1576 by Ali Adil Shah I and at least partly financed with plunder from Vijayanagar (Hampi). Inside are a large courtyard and a domed prayer hall with beautiful gold-paint inscriptions and decoration on its mihrab.

A kilometre west of the Jama Masjid, the old Citadel was once the heart of the city with palaces, gardens and mosques surrounded by walls and a 1.5km moat. Only the moat’s northwest quarter has water now. The most impressive remaining structure is the colossal archway of the Gagan Mahal royal palace. It’s said that this is where the last sultan, Sikandar Adil Shah, surrendered in chains to the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb in 1686. The lawns and benches in front are a popular local relaxation spot.

North across busy Station Rd (MG Rd) stands the Bara Kaman, the unfinished tomb of Ali Adil Shah II (r 1656–72), the second last of the dynasty. Originally intended to surpass Ali’s father’s tomb, the Gol Gumbaz, in grandeur, its arches and columns remain roofless on their high platform. Vijayapura’s main central market is just west of here.

Vijayapura’s aesthetic high point, the Ibrahim Rouza, stands 800m outside the western walls. This mausoleum and its accompanying mosque (similar but not identical) are set in beautiful formal gardens, their upper levels a symphony of varisized domes and spindly minarets. Below, the mausoleum’s walls are adorned with wonderful carved calligraphy and geometric designs. Inside are the tombs of the sixth sultan, Ibrahim Adil Shah II (r 1580–1627), his queen Taj Sultana and other family members.

Gagan Mahal | ARCHITECTURE AND MONUMENTS PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

KARNATAKA TOUR FIRMS

Unhurried: Knowledgeable guides lead food, market, nature and heritage walks in Bengaluru, trips to Hampi and Mysuru, and more.

Gully Tours: Experienced company offering a range of walks in Bengaluru (including some at night) and Mysuru.

The Blue Yonder: Interesting day tours and activities in Bengaluru.

Unventured: Bengaluru and Mysuru city tours; longer trips further afield.

Breakaway: Organises bespoke trips around experiences and themes such as crafts, rural retreats, coffee plantations and wildlife (break-away.in).

Bangalore Wine Trails: Website with info on winery visits near Bengaluru and beyond.

Bangalore Walks: Themed tours of the city.

EATING & DRINKING IN VIJAYAPURA: OUR PICKS

Qaswa Hills: Buzzing restaurant in Hotel Pearl, renowned for its meat dishes; try a chicken or mutton biryani or kebab. AC and non-AC sections. 7am-11pm ₹₹

Artha Coffee & Co: Probably the best coffee in northern Karnataka (cappuccino, affogato, frappés, the lot) plus global eats, in a bright, airy space. 11am-11pm ₹

Hotel Madhuvan International: Good all-vegetarian hotel restaurant in a palm-shaded courtyard with 14 kinds of dosa, thalis and lots of paneer and korma dishes. 7am-10.30pm ₹

Places We Love to Stay

₹ Budget ₹₹ Midrange ₹₹₹ Top End

Bengaluru (Bangalore)

Locul Uptown ₹ Well-run hostel on a quiet lane 3km northwest of MG Rd. Organises interesting walks.

Casa Cottage ₹₹ A hospitable, tastefully renovated, century-old house, with a charming, tranquil garden.

Hotel Ajantha ₹₹ Dependable budget favourite near Trinity metro: sizeable, clean rooms, efficiently amiable staff and the room is yours for 24 hours from whatever time you check in.

Laika Boutique Stay ₹₹ In a leafy central enclave with comfortably spotless rooms and good breakfasts. Book ahead.

jüSTa MG Road ₹₹ Boutiquey choice steps from Trinity metro: excellent breakfast.

Taj West End ₹₹₹ Began life in 1887 as lodging for British officers, and still oozes colonial-era style, with impeccable modern comforts.

St Mark’s Hotel ₹₹₹ Central hotel with a gleaming marble lobby, carpeted rooms in a conservative style, and fab views from its 7th-floor restaurant.

Mysuru (Mysore)

Rahee Bi Roambay ₹ Well-run, intelligently designed hostel in two characterful adjoining houses.

Anokhi Garden ₹₹ Great option for staying a few (or more) days: en-suite rooms in Gokulam with kitchen and washing machine; breakfast and yoga available.

Mysore Bed and Breakfast ₹₹ Family home full of personality and artefacts. Affable British host Stephen leads excellent cycling tours. Book ahead.

Parklane Hotel ₹₹ Good central location, moderate prices, terrace restaurant/beer garden, some bathrooms starting to show their age.

Southern Star₹₹₹ Good-value, well-located hotel: sizeable, well-equipped rooms, two restaurants, and a fine pool in leafy gardens.

Royal Orchid Metropole ₹₹₹ This former royal guest abode provides large, balconied rooms, excellent dining, heritage atmosphere and a classy bar.

Gitanjali Homestay ₹₹₹ Spacious, spotless rooms and generous breakfast, at an eco-minded garden property 6km from the centre.

Nagarhole Tiger Reserve

Kabini River Lodge ₹₹₹ Well-organised former royal hunting lodge with comfortable cottages and a dorm. Good meals; all packages include boat and land safaris.

KAAV Safari Lodge ₹₹₹ Deluxe rooms, glamping tents and villa right on the edge of the tiger reserve, with a viewing tower and enticing pool.

Bandipur Tiger Reserve

Dhole’s Den ₹₹₹ Contemporary design in pastoral surrounds near Mangala village: spacious rooms with terraces, solar power, organic farm.

Serai Bandipur ₹₹₹ Elegant, Mediterranean-inspired villas at a luxury resort in the Mangala area.

MC Resort ₹₹₹ Slightly-past-its-best small resort with relatively moderate prices, conveniently located.

Kodagu (Coorg)

Honey Valley ₹ Simple, decently kept rooms on a friendly family’s coffee plantation in the luxuriant south Kodagu hills. Sister property Chingaara nearby has larger, more comfortable rooms.

Palace Estate ₹₹ Delightful ambience on a characterful coffee and spice farm with welcoming host, excellent home cooking and its own waterfall, at the foot of Thadiyandamol hill.

Victorian Verandaz ₹₹ Two cosy rooms with great meals available, and two rustic self-catering apartments, on a coffee estate outside Madikeri. Plantation tour included.

Bungalow 1934 ₹₹₹ Comfort, space, attentive service and excellent meals in an inspirationally revamped large family bungalow on a panoramic south Kodagu hillside.

Chikkamagaluru (Chikmagalur)

Clover Leaf Home Stay ₹₹ Straightforward cottage rooms, home-cooked meals and evening bonfires on a forest coffee plantation, 9km from Chikkamagaluru town.

Halli Berri Cottages ₹₹₹ A marvellous, relaxed coffee-plantation getaway 25km north of Chikkamagaluru town: stylishly uncluttered rooms, superb meals, and an estate tour included.

Mangaluru (Mangalore)

Hotel Manorama ₹ Clean, bare rooms are fair value for their low prices, and the owner’s statuary collection in the lobby makes a memorable impression.

Vivanta Mangalore Oldport Road ₹₹₹ With classy service, well-equipped, spacious rooms, a garden pool, bar and terrific buffet breakfast, this hotel is excellent value.

Gokarna

Nirvana Cafe ₹ Fan-cooled rooms along a leafy back garden, all with verandah or balcony and bathroom. East end of Om Beach.

Ananda Cafe ₹ Friendly, family-run budget place 1.2km up Gokarna main beach from the town. Rear rooms in two-storey buildings are best.

Namaste Cafe ₹₹ Well-kept, comfy rooms in several buildings on a forested hillside running down to their restaurant on Om Beach.

Strawberry Farmhouse ₹₹ Plain but decent small cottages, most with views along Kudle Beach.

Namaste Yoga Farm ₹₹₹ Cottages and rooms scattered around a wooded Kudle hillside plot, owned by an amiable German yoga teacher. Tranquil and friendly vibes.

Mausoleum wall, Ibrahim Rouza | BALAJISRINIVASAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hampi

Wanderlust ₹ Popular spot in the Hanumanahalli countryside with basic cabins, tents and a long, airy, sociable restaurant.

Epic Island Hampi ₹ Simple bamboo-weave bungalows looking through palms to the river and boulder hills beyond, outside Hanumanahalli.

Shankar Homestay ₹₹ Spacious, comfortable rooms and attentive hosts on a tree-covered property near Kadirampur.

Leo Wooden Resort ₹₹ Bijou cottages and excellent restaurant deep in the countryside 5km southwest of Sanapur. Crocodiles in the river so swim in the pool!

Clarks Inn ₹₹ Professionally run, newish hotel in Kamalapuram with spic-and-span rooms in colourful contemporary style.

Padma Guest House ₹₹ Efficiently-run Padma has a range of well looked-after midrange and budget rooms, a short walk from Virupaksha Temple.

Evolve Back Hampi ₹₹₹ The kind of place Vijayanagar royalty would have built if they were around today, out in the sticks beyond Kamalapuram.

Badami

Heritage Resort ₹₹ Spacious, airy, inviting lodgings with air-con in leafy grounds on the northern edge of town, 2km from the centre. Has a good vegetarian restaurant.

Vijayapura (Bijapur)

Kyriad Hotel ₹₹ Well-maintained modern rooms and helpful staff, between the centre and the Gol Gumbaz.

Hotel Madhuvan International ₹₹ On a quiet side-street, the Madhuvan has plain, clean rooms with optional air-con. Cheerful staff and good dining.

Sabala Heritage Home ₹₹ NGO-linked Sabala provides rooms and all-veg meals; runs a craft shop and centre supporting Adivasi women. Semi-rural setting 6km southeast of the centre.

Telangana & Andhra Pradesh

FEASTS, TEMPLES AND LAVISH HISTORY

The buzzing foodie city of Hyderabad is the atmospheric leaping-off point for a hinterland studded with fascinating history and humbling sacred sites.

Statues of rishis (saints) outside Undavalli Cave Temples | AJAYTVM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The ancestral home of India’s richest royal family, handsome, historic Hyderabad is the gateway to a region that is under-explored but invariably appreciated by those who make the effort to discover its charms. Indeed, with direct international flights arriving into Hyderabad’s well-organised airport from the UK, Germany and destinations across the Middle East and Asia, this might well be our favourite first stop in India.

Many travellers tour Hyderabad’s museums, palaces and mausoleums, then zoom on to Chennai (Madras) or Bengaluru (Bangalore), missing out on the rich history and atmospheric religious sites of rural Telangana and Andhra Pradesh. The holy hill of Tirumala in the south of Andhra Pradesh is one of India’s most important places of pilgrimage, and the countryside around Warangal, Vijayawada and Visakhapatnam is dotted with the ruins of ancient Buddhist monasteries, temples and forts.

The two states were one until 2014, and the business of setting up separate state institutions is taking some time. Telangana’s capital, Hyderabad, remains the region’s primary hub, while the administration of Andhra Pradesh is split between Visakhapatnam, Kurnool and under-construction Amaravathi.

To get the most from the region, use Hyderabad, Warangal, Vijayawada and Visakhapatnam as your main hubs for exploring, travelling around by bus, train or chartered taxi. Take your time, prioritising mealtimes to take full advantage of the region’s lavishly spiced meat and veg cuisine.

UDAY AGASTYA07/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE MAIN AREAS

HYDERABAD

Palaces, pearls and biryani.

VIJAYAWADA

An easy hub for sacred sites.

VISAKHAPATNAM

Museums, beaches and up-country detours.

Find Your Way

Hyderabad is the dynamic hub for two states that used to be one. From here, buses and trains fan out across Telangana and Andhra Pradesh. The sacred hill of Tirumala is best reached from Chennai.

Plan Your Time

Must-see Hyderabad is worth several days of your time before setting off to explore the rest of Telangana and Andhra Pradesh. Reach remote Tirumala from Chennai rather than Hyderabad.

Warangal Fort | KRISHNAKANTH B/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hyderabad & Highlights

• Focus your first days on Hyderabad, exploring palaces, royal tombs and museums, and feasting on biryani. Travelling northwest across Telangana and Andhra Pradesh, connect through temple-filled Warangal to reach Vijayawada – a handy base for trips to ancient Buddhist sites. Continue by bus or train to Visakhapatnam for beaches and more Buddhist delights, then loop back to Hyderabad.

Temples off the Track

• Kick off a temple trip at the Birla Mandir in Hyderabad, then zigzag northeast, exploring Kakatiya temples at Warangal and Palampet. Visit the Buddhist stupa at Amaravathi from Vijayawada, then head to Visakhapatnam to see the Varahalakshmi Narasimha temple, and Buddhist Sankaram. Fly to Tirupati to join the pilgrims at Tirumala.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

SPRING

Spring means soaring temperatures and uncomfortable nights in the run-up to the monsoon.

SUMMER

June to September sees the monsoon unleash its full force, cooling the air but drenching the region with rainfall.

AUTUMN

As the monsoon ends, it becomes increasingly enjoyable to explore, with shorter queues than in the busy winter.

WINTER

Winter is the busiest time, with domestic tourists taking city breaks to Hyderabad and the temple towns.

Hyderabad

PALACES | TOMBS | BIRYANI

Surrounded by a fast-growing modern metropolis, the old city of Hyderabad moves to timeless Islamic rhythms, with the call to prayer providing an evocative, five-times-a-day soundtrack. It’s also exceptionally welcoming – a place where topi-wearing religious scholars will invite you to join their table in crammed-to-the-rafters biryani restaurants, and museum security guards will zip you round the highlights if you arrive close to closing time.

In the crowded but atmospheric bazaars around the minaret-topped Charminar landmark, pearls, precious stones and perfumes have been traded for centuries, but posh modern neighbourhoods such as Banjara Hills and Jubilee Hills are also great places to shop and dine – flush with money from the city’s IT revolution.

What is harder to love is Hyderabad’s traffic. The efficient metro takes away some of the pain, but there will still be moments when you take an autorickshaw just to avoid the death-defying act of crossing a main road.

GETTING AROUND

The metro takes the stress out of exploring Hyderabad. Three lines intersect at Ameerpet, MG Bus Station and Parade Ground, with an extension planned to Charminar and Falaknuma. Once you leave the metro, it’s best to get around by autorickshaw (or Uber or Ola) – the city is hard to navigate on foot and crossing any major road is a test of courage.

Hyderabad has three main stations – Secunderabad, Nampally (Hyderabad Deccan) and Kache-guda. Always factor in the time it takes to cross the city when heading to the station.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Chowmahalla Palace

SIGHTS

2   Birla Mandir

3   BM Birla Science Centre

4   BR Ambedkar Statue

5   British Residency

6   Buddha Statue

7   Chacha Nehru Park

8   Charminar Monument

9   Dargah Hazrat Shah Khamosh

10   Dargah Yousufain Sharifain

11   HEH The Nizam’s Museum

12   Hussain Sagar

13   Kalakriti Art Gallery

14   Lumbini Park

15   Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum

16   NTR Gardens

17   Salar Jung Museum

18   State Museum

19   Sudha Cars Museum

20   Telangana Secretariat

SLEEPING

21   Beehive Commune Hyderabad

22   Golden Glory Guesthouse

23   Hotel New Gopi Residency

24   Hotel Raj Inn

25   Royalton Hotel

26   Taj Mahal Hotel

27   The Park

EATING

Aish (see 27)

28   Barbeque Nation

29   Bawarchi

30   Biryaniwalla & Co

31   Cafe Bahar

32   Chutneys

Dakshina Mandapa (see 26)

33   Firdaus

34   Govind Dosa

35   Hotel Shadab

36   Karachi Bakery

37   Meerut Hotel

38   Nimrah Cafe

39   Paradise

40   Pista House

41   Roastery

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

42   10 Downing Street

43   Cafe Niloufer Classic

SHOPPING

44   Chatta Bazaar Rd

45   Fabindia

46   Fabindia

47   Gulzar Houz Market

48   Hyderabad Perfumers

49   Kalanjali

50   Laad Bazaar

51   Malkha

52   Mir Alam Mandi

53   Patel Market

54   Patthargatti Rd

55   Suvasa

56   Urdu Galli

TOP TIP

Plan your Hyderabad stay around the metro. Pick a hotel within easy reach of a metro stop, and plan meals and drinks around places you can get to by metro.

The Nizams’ Palatial Pad

Admire Hyderabad’s grandest palace

South of the Charminar monument, the opulent Chowmahalla Palace was constructed in the 18th and 19th centuries as a home for a succession of Nizams (rulers), starting with Nizam Ali Khan Asaf Jah II in 1769. Set in a walled compound, it’s a haven of peace after the clamour of the Charminar markets.

Approached through its northern gates, the front half of the Chowmahalla is a fanciful Indo-Saracenic construction, with incised stucco, Islamic arches and octagonal turrets that bring to mind an Italian villa. The rear of the palace is more classically European, with grand pavilions flanked by neoclassical columns, lawns and fountains.

The palace’s design says much about a royal family captivated by novel ideas, and also wise to the strategic advantages of maintaining good relations with the British East India Company. In 1798 the Nizams were pressured into signing a treaty of allegiance to the British empire, but the state of Hyderabad retained considerable autonomy through careful diplomacy.

The last Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan, donated millions to the British war effort in India during WWII. When the Indian Army rolled in to annex Hyderabad into the union in 1948, the Nizam sent a frantic message to London requesting urgent assistance, and was informed that, unfortunately, the British empire was unable to help on that occasion.

Showing off their cosmopolitan tastes came with the territory for the Nizams. Mir Osman Ali Khan commissioned a custom-built Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost in the canary-yellow colours of the Hyderabad flag – displayed along with other heirloom automobiles in the palace garages.

The grandest building here is the central Khilwat Mubarak, a magnificent durbar hall (royal court) where the Nizams held ceremonies under enormous Belgian crystal chandeliers. Side rooms house historical exhibits, photos and heirlooms, including a magnificent armoury and a collection of exquisite hand-illustrated Qurans.

At the rear of the compound, the European-influenced Afzal Mahal contains elegant turn-of-the-20th-century furniture and royal possessions. Flanking the palace gardens are the Aftab Mahal, displaying lavish royal wedding outfits, and the Mehtab Mahal containing palace offices. Palm-fringed fountains and lawns complete the picture of an exclusive private getaway for playboy royals.

Durbar Hall, Chowmahalla Palace | AKELLA SRINIVAS RAMALINGASWAMI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE SOUND OF HYDERABAD

Emerging in the subcontinent in the 13th century, qawwali singing is closely linked with Sufism – the mystical, esoteric form of Islam – and Hyderabad is one of the best places to hear its haunting, passionate refrains. An acoustic framework for powerfully moving vocal improvisation is provided by the harmonium, tabla and clapped hands or clicked wooden blocks.

Visit the Dargah Yousufain Sharifain or Dargah Hazrat Shah Khamosh near Nampally metro station late on a Thursday or Friday evening to hear singers in full flow, or check out the schedule for the qawwali performances at the Taj Falaknuma Palace hotel (usually timed to coincide with lavish dinners or high tea tours at the hotel).

EATING IN HYDERABAD: BEST EATS NEAR THE CHARMINAR

Nimrah Cafe: Right by the Charminar bazaar, serving restorative, strong Irani chai and shortbread-like Osmania biscuits. 5.30am-11pm ₹

Govind Dosa: A cult food stall west of Patthargatti Rd, with idli (rice cakes), vada (fritters) and spectacular dosas. 7am-midnight ₹

Meerut Hotel: A hole-in-the-wall near the Mir Alam Mandi covered market, serving inexpensive meat and veg curries with roti. 8am-10pm ₹

Pista House: A famous Shalibanda purveyor of haleem (meaty, spicy stew) during Ramadan, and other meaty dishes year-round. 11am-11.30pm ₹₹

See More of the Nizams’ Lavish Lives

Explore ostentatious royal homes

The Chowmahalla Palace is just the start of the royal experience. Northeast of the Charminar, the Purani Haveli was the residence of the sixth Nizam, Mahbub Ali Khan (r 1869–1911). The palace has been taken over by the Mukkaram Jah High School, but one wing remains open as HEH The Nizam’s Museum, displaying a treasure trove of royal possessions, including the king’s silver cradle and gold-burnished throne. Whole rooms are filled with racks of solid silver desk ornaments and models of Hyderabad buildings, donated by grateful royal subjects. According to legend, the sixth Nizam never wore the same clothes twice, which explains the 54m-long, two-storey Burmese teak walk-in wardrobe.

The third must-see royal residence is the opulent Falaknuma Palace – an astonishing Indo-Saracenic fantasy from 1884, housing Hyderabad’s most luxurious hotel. Adorned with stained-glass paintings of European scenes, the palace is built in the shape of a scorpion, surrounded by elegant, peacock-filled grounds on a hilltop to the south of the Charminar. If you can’t stretch to the US$600+ nightly room rates, book in for an exceptional dinner of recipes from the Nizam’s kitchen at the Adaa restaurant, or arrange an afternoon tour with high tea. The Nizam Palaces tour run by Telangana Tourism (tourism.telangana.gov.in) also swings by the Falaknuma. If you visit, check out the world’s longest dining table, seating 101 guests.

DIAMOND GEEZERS

The Qutb Shahis and later the Nizams built their vast fortunes on solid foundations. The Krishna Valley to the east of Hyderabad was once the source of most of the world’s diamonds, until the discovery of new deposits in southern Africa in the 19th century.

The Kollur mine near Vijayawada was reputedly the source of the Koh-i-Noor, the enormous 105.6-carat sparkler that ended up in the crown jewels of England, as well as the gigantic 340-carat Nizam Diamond, which the last Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan is said to have used as a paperweight. This legendary stone vanished mysteriously during the 1948 annexation of Hyderabad, and its present whereabouts is unknown.

EATING IN HYDERABAD: EATS IN BANJARA HILLS & JUBILEE HILLS

Chutneys: An anonymous entry leads to dosa and uttapam (rice pancake) , served with homemade condiments. 7am-11pm ₹₹

Barbeque Nation: Quantity comes first at this grillhouse, from bottomless kebabs to AYCE curries. noon-3.30pm & 6.30-10pm ₹₹₹

Olive Bistro: The sophisticated, lakeside branch of this posh chain whistles up dishes from across the Med. noon-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm ₹₹₹

SO – The Sky Kitchen: Head to Jubilee Hills for rooftop candles, lounge-bar sounds and pan-Asian and Mediterranean eats. noon-midnight ₹₹₹

Marvellous Mercantile Madness

Wander the bazaars

Hyderabadis of every stripe flock to the teeming bazaars around the Charminar monument to browse, bargain and buy. Approaching from the north (via the metro stop at MG Bus Stand), you’ll first reach Patthargatti Road, home to some of the city’s most extravagant wedding outfitters. It’s worth stepping inside these purveyors of dreams to admire the astonishing beadwork patterns on the women’s lehenga wedding dresses and men’s sherwani coats.

At the north end of the road, Chatta Bazaar Road is old Hyderabad’s main hub for ornate wedding cards, while Mir Chowk Rd runs east to the Mir Alam Mandi, the old city’s slightly ramshackle wholesale fruit and vegetable market. Along this lane, look out for shops selling special embroidered flags and sheets used to decorate Sufi dargahs (tombs).

Beyond the green mosque, halfway along Patthargatti, you’ll enter the section of market running up to the Gulzar Houz market and fountain, where stores are piled with strands of Hyderabadi pearls, gemstone garlands and glass bottles of ittar (Islamic perfume). If you’re in the market for pearls, examine the strands carefully, checking the pearls for lustre and smoothness – agreeably wonky rice pearls are less costly than perfect spheres.

Reaching the Charminar, you’ll emerge into a manic market selling everything from household goods to chintzy costume jewellery and tourist trinkets. Look out for dealers in old Indian coins – you can find old rupee and paisa coins from the Raj era (1858–1947) and crude copper coins dating back as far as the Qutb Shahi period (1518–1687). Laad Bazaar, running west from the Charminar, is famed for its sparkling bangle shops, specialising in lac bangles made from insect resin. Laad Bazaar used to lead on to an atmospheric antiques market at Mehboob Chowk, but the complex was demolished in 2023.

Crammed into the alleys to the west of Patthargatti Rd, the lively Patel Market sells cloth and fabrics of every imaginable hue, and it cranks into action from around 11am. Follow Urdu Galli to find shops catering to the sartorial requirements of devout Muslim women.

Charminar | DAKSHESH TAILOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PERFUMERS FOR PRINCES

The bazaars around the Charminar have done a brisk trade in ittars since the 16th century, when local perfumers provided fragrances for the court of the Qutb Shahis. The scent business is still going strong, with dozens of perfume shops waiting to mix you up a custom scent in double quick time.

One of the most respected shops is Hyderabad Perfumers, just north of the Charminar on Patthargatti Rd, which offers everything from inexpensive pre-packaged natural flower oils to extravagant blended fragrances costing upwards of ₹7000 a bottle. The blends offered by wandering scent vendors are less refined, but the coloured lights stallholders wrap around their scent bottles will certainly catch your eye after dark.

EATING IN HYDERABAD: BEST BIRYANI

Hotel Shadab: A legendary old city stop for biryani – rich, fragrant and alive with the flavours of cinnamon and cloves. noon-11.30pm ₹₹

Paradise: A local biryani legend; branches include a grand flagship eatery near the Paradise metro stop in Secunderabad. 11.30am-11pm ₹₹

Biryaniwalla & Co: A taste of proper biryani in Banjara Hills, popular with workers on the homebound commute. noon-10.30pm ₹₹

Bawarchi: A superior biryani spot east of Hussain Nagar, drawing lunchtime and after-work crowds. noon-11.30pm ₹₹

A Sprawling Regal Ruin

Climb the ramparts of Golconda Fort

Hyderabad’s most dramatic sight, the monumental Golconda Fort was raised in the 16th century by the rulers of the wealthy Qutb Shahi dynasty. Covering a vast area, its grand royal palaces are shattered and roofless, but you’ll still get a strong sense of the fort’s former grandeur, and it’s the best place to let kids run wild.

Golconda Fort | LIFE_LINE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Start exploring at the base of the hill, where formal gardens, an enormous arsenal and the royal funerary hammam lead to a magnificent sprawl of royal apartments. Some of the chambers retain traces of their original carved stucco, and the vaulted ceilings provide a home for hundreds of chirping bats. The graceful Taramati Mosque is the most impressively ornamented structure here, but you can also see traces of dainty pools in the former zenana (women’s quarters).

Steep steps climb the 120m-high hill behind the mosque, threading through gateways and battlements to the still-in-use Jagadamba Mahakali Temple. The plain white Baradari (Durbar Hall) at the top of the hill provides breathtaking panoramas over the city, from the tombs of the Qutb Shahis to the high-tech towers of Hyderabad’s swanky modern suburbs.

Get here by autorickshaw, Uber or Ola from the Charminar or the Abids area. It’s worth taking a guide to point out hidden features like the fort’s concealed water pipes and the ingenious acoustics of the fort entrance, designed to ensure that even the smallest sound would echo across the courtyard.

HYDERABADI CUISINE

Hyderabadi cuisine is famous across India – a lavish fusion of southern spices with the rich, meaty flavours of the Mughal kitchen. The landmark dish here is biryani – basmati rice, ground and whole spices and vegetables, mutton or chicken, layered in a single pot, covered, and slowly cooked in its own steam. Huge portions of the dish are served at famous-name biryani restaurants such as Hotel Shadab, accompanied by mirchi ka slan (a richly spiced gravy) and yoghurt-based raita. Order slow-simmered dum biryani rather than the less refined ‘fry’ version for authentic, melt-in-the-mouth flavours.

The other dish to seek out is haleem, a Ramadan delicacy of pounded spiced wheat with lentils and goat, chicken or beef.

DRINKING IN HYDERABAD: BEST TEA & COFFEE

Cafe Niloufer Classic: Hyderabad’s best Irani tea, served alongside snacks at this standing-only cafe. 6am-midnight

Karachi Bakery: Founded in Banjara Hills in 1953, and still serving delectable biscuits, sweets and savoury snacks to drop-in diners. 10am-10pm

Roastery: Ladies and gents who lunch do it at Roastery, with a side order of espresso, in this calm suburban courtyard garden. 8am-11.30pm

True Black: A sleekly modern cafe bar, drawing a hip, well-heeled crowd to Road No 45 in Jubilee Hills after hours. 8am-11pm

Hyderabad’s History Museums

Dive into Hyderabad history

The royal families of Hyderabad were obsessive hoarders, and their vast collections of treasures have spilled over into the city’s museums.

Topping the roster is the vast Salar Jung Museum in the old city, displaying a collection amassed by Mir Yousuf Ali Khan (Salar Jung III), grand vizier to the seventh Nizam. During his tenure, the trinket-loving courtier accumulated enough royal heirlooms to fill 39 galleries, covering everything from jade mouthpieces for hookah pipes and engraved talwar swords to European sculptures and exquisite paintings from all the Indian miniature schools.

The museum layout is rather confusing and it’s easy to miss whole sections of the collection, so take your time and look out for quirky pieces like the elegantly carved Veiled Rebecca by 19th-century Italian sculptor Benzoni, and the side rooms with extravagant Persian carpets and Chinese and Japanese celadon, porcelain and lacquerware.

Close to the Assembly metro station, the rambling State Museum is set inside a fanciful Indo-Saracenic building constructed by the seventh Nizam as a playhouse for his daughter. Interlinked wings display archaeological treasures, canons, stone carvings, inlaid metal bidriware, hand-painted kalamkari fabrics and a 4500-year-old Egyptian mummy, plus relics from two millennia of Buddhist history in Telangana and Andhra Pradesh.

HYDERABAD’S WHITE MUGHAL

As the British Resident of Hyderabad, Lieutenant-Colonel James Achilles Kirkpatrick was charged with furthering the ambitions of the East India Company, but he soon became entranced with Indian culture and ‘went native’ to use the parlance of the time. Kirkpatrick converted to Islam and married into the Hyderabadi royal family in 1800, effectively becoming a double agent for the rulers of the Deccan state.

Unfortunately, the relationship between Hyderabad’s white Mughal and Indian noblewoman Khair-un-Nissa Begum was cut tragically short – Fitzpatrick died from fever while on a trip to Calcutta in 1805, and his children were permanently relocated to England, leaving Khair-un-Nissa childless and bereaved.

EATING IN HYDERABAD: OUR CROSS-CITY PICKS

Cafe Bahar: Southeast of Birla Mandir and famous for lunchtime biryani, but also serving artfully spiced kebabs. 11am-1am ₹₹

Dakshina Mandapa: The Taj Mahal Hotel’s veg restaurant serves fabulously filling thalis with bottomless refills. 7am-10.30pm ₹₹

Firdaus: At the Taj Krishna Hotel, serving cuisine fit for a Nizam accompanied by live ghazals (Urdu love songs). 12.30-3pm & 7.30-11.30pm ₹₹₹

Aish: This swish eatery at the Park hotel serves regal Hyderabadi set menus, with sorbets between the courses. 12.30-2.30pm & 7-11pm ₹₹₹

WALKING TOUR

Hyderabad’s Royal Heart

Even in a country overflowing with history, Hyderabad’s medieval heart stands out for its energy and welcoming vibe. Discover more on this walk around palaces, landmarks and sacred sights.

Start at the 1 Salar Jung Museum, for a first taste of the treasures hoarded by the Nizams over the centuries. Be sure to check out all rooms in this maze-like complex – surprising things pop up in hidden corners.

Salar Jung Museum | RASHBIHARI DUTTA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Leaving the museum, head west along the river, looking out for the towering domes of the Osmania General Hospital (across the river), founded by the last Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan, in 1919. Take the second major road on the left by the bridge, passing a series of gleaming megastores selling lehenga wedding dresses, lavishly embellished with beaded patterns.

At the next corner, turn right and duck into the courtyard of the 2 Badshahi Ashurkhana, an Islamic shrine founded in 1594 by the Qutb Shahis. The interior features fine calligraphy and mosaics, and Shia Muslim men dressed smartly in black gather here on Thursdays to commemorate the martyrdom of Hussain Ibn Ali.

Pause next door at famous 3 Hotel Shadab for a biryani, lassi or faluda (rose milk with vermicelli noodles), then dive into the commercial melee of the Patthargatti Rd bazaar. The first few blocks are filled by glitzy wedding stores, but as you move south, the offerings under the stone arches become more mixed.

At Mir Chowk Rd, turn left past grocery stores to reach 4 Mir Alam Mandi, the old city’s wholesale fruit and vegetable market, then return to Patthargatti Rd. You’ll soon enter the pearl vendor’s section of the market, running up to the 5 Gulzar Houz fountain and an enormous medieval arch – one of four guarding the main approaches to the Charminar. Pearls and perfumes are the main stock in trade here, with hundreds of dealers waiting to tempt you with shimmering strands or freshen up your personal bouquet with a dab of scent.

Passing through a second archway, you’ll reach the 6 Charminar – a towering civic monument constructed by Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah in 1591 to commemorate the founding of Hyderabad. Four sky-piercing minarets crown each corner, hence the name, meaning ‘four minarets’. You can climb it for awesome old city views.

Pause for a cup of Irani tea and Osmania biscuits at 7 Nimrah Cafe to observe the bustle around the base of the Charminar, as perfume sellers, bangle vendors, clothing traders, purveyors of knick-knacks and dealers in old coins jostle for passing trade.

Take a detour to the west, along 8 Laad Bazaar, a whole street dedicated to the sale of colourful lac bangles, made from the resin secreted by scale insects, inlaid with beads and semi-precious stones. Then return to the Charminar and go south towards another of the monument’s guardian gateways.

You’ll almost immediately pass the grand frontage of the 9 Mecca Masjid, the city’s most important mosque, with room for 10,000 devotees. The imposing facade was reputedly carved from a single block of granite, on the orders of Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah in 1617. It’s closed to non-Muslims but you can peek through the railings.

Take the next right under a modern archway, then go south on Moti Galli Rd to finish up at the wondrous 10 Chowmahalla Palace, the grandest of the downtown residences of the Hyderabad Nizams and a calm, elegant haven from the noisy, crowded streets outside.

Colonial-Meets-Hyderabadi History

Visit the fascinating British Residency

The fascinating, ultimately tragic life of Lieutenant-Colonel James Achilles Kirkpatrick of the East India Company was the inspiration for William Dalrymple’s book White Mughals, and you can visit the grand house where it all happened.

Hidden away inside the Koti Women’s College near the Sultan Bazaar metro stop, the former British Residency was constructed in the early 1800s for the Lieutenant-Colonel and his bride Khair-un-Nissa Begum, a Hyderabadi noblewoman descended from the Mughal emperor Bahadur Shah I.

Outwardly, the house follows a neoclassical pattern, with a grand Greco-Roman pediment supported by Corinthian columns, but rooms were arranged to allow Khair-un-Nissa to live according to Islamic custom, away from the sight of male visitors. It is said that she never saw the front of the house, and a scale model was built in the gardens to allow her to view the Residency from all sides.

Tickets allow admission to the main rooms, with an excellent exhibition upstairs on the building’s history and its restoration by the World Monuments Fund. Downstairs, the grand Durbar Hall is an ostentatious space, with an original teak floor, dangling chandeliers and a ceiling lavishly painted with Islamic patterns.

A second ticket grants access to the gardens and model of the mansion, and a secluded cemetery containing the graves of former British residents and their families, many of whom died before reaching their 30s.

TOP SPOTS TO CONNECT WITH OLD HYDERABAD

Jonty Rajagopalan, tour guide and director of DetoursIndia.com shares her tips for exploring old Hyderabad.

Magnificent palaces with European chandeliers, bustling bazaars, the majestic tombs of kings and queens of a bygone era juxtaposed with the modern buildings of ‘Cyberabad’; the city of Hyderabad has it all!

One must-do here is to head to the Charminar area, be it to people-watch while dunking freshly baked Osmania biscuits into a cup of Irani tea at Nimrah or haggle for the perfect set of shiny lac bangles in the colourful Laad Bazaar.

Obvious tourist attractions are many, but the city’s history is also revealed by lesser-known monuments like the Paigah Tombs in Santosh Nagar and the newly restored British Residency in Koti.

Grand Civic Moments by the Lake

Spot statues by Hussain Sagar

Close to the Khairatabad and Lakdi-ka-Pul metro stations, Hussain Sagar lake was created by the Qutb Shahis in the 16th century; today the lakeshore is crowded with Hyderabad’s most ostentatious civic monuments.

The modern, Mughal-inspired Telangana Secretariat faces a vast mirrored sculpture commemorating the 369 students killed while campaigning for a separate Telangana state in 1969. Behind stands Lumbini Park, where tourist boats buzz out to an island crowned by an 18m-high granite statue of Buddha, consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 2006.

Since 2023 the southern shore of the lake has been dominated by a gargantuan 38m-high statue of BR Ambedkar, the reformist government minister who inspired 500,000 Dalits to convert to Buddhism to escape the restrictions of the Hindu caste system. Families will enjoy the nearby NTR Gardens, with more supersized pieces of public art, including, curiously, a giant fruit assortment.

On the hilltop south of the Secretariat, the ethereal Birla Mandir was constructed from gleaming white Rajasthani marble in 1976. Fusing northern and southern architectural styles and dedicated to Sri Venkateshwara, a popular incarnation of Vishnu, the temple draws pilgrims throughout the day, and offers magnificent views over the city skyline. Bags, phones and cameras must be left with the guards at the entrance.

Birla Mandir | LUVIN YASH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hyderabad for Families

Keep the kids entertained

With its speeding traffic and general hubbub, Hyderabad isn’t always a relaxing destination for families, but there are some good spots to keep kids entertained. Starting in the old city, try a trip up the Charminar , followed by tea and Osmania biscuits at Nimrah Cafe then a wander through the calm, green grounds of the Chowmahalla Palace.

For museum exhibits created with youngsters in mind, drop into BM Birla Science Centre near the Birla Mandir. The huge and eclectic collection covers everything from temple carvings and chintzy English Royal Doulton porcelain figurines to displays on the Indian space race and the skeleton of a huge sauropod dinosaur unearthed in Telangana. The entire ground floor is given over to interactive science displays for kids, and the apparatus is well maintained so most things work (something that can’t be said about every science museum). A giant ball run meanders through the exhibition space, rolling balls along an intricate network of rails, then raising them up again using Archimedes screws. Combine a visit with the Birla Mandir and the big Buddha in Hussain Sagar lake.

For a glimpse of Telangana’s many tribal communities, the Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum on Owaisipura Rd (west of the Lakdikapul metro station) has dioramas, mock-up tribal buildings, clothing and tribal artefacts, including colourful masks from the Naikpod community. Afterwards, you can pop across the road to Chacha Nehru Park, a peaceful, green space away from the city noise.

For oddball points, don’t overlook the Sudha Cars Museum west of the Charminar, displaying the goofball motorcycles and automobiles created by Hyderabadi motor enthusiast K Sudhakar. Among the Wacky Races motors are drivable vehicles shaped like footballs, shoes, fruit, a pool table, a cricket bat and a suitcase.

BEST SHOPS IN HYDERABAD

Fabindia: Branches in Banjara Hills and Jubilee Hills stock stylish but pricey Indian clothing and homewares.

Kalanjali: Close to the Assembly metro stop and stacked to the rafters with clothing, crafts and knick-knacks.

Malkha: South of Banjara Hills, environmentally aware Malkha specialises in hand-dyed, hand-printed and handwoven clothing.

Ikat India: This sleek Jubilee Hills store specialises in ikat scarves, dupatta scarves, shawls and clothing, with patterns dyed into the fibres.

Suvasa: High-quality clothing and homewares in Banjara Hills; great for salwar sets, dupattas and kurta shirts.

DRINKING IN HYDERABAD: BEST FOR BEERS

10 Downing Street: A mall setting in Secunderabad gives way to a wood-lined interior, like an American old English pub. 11am-11pm

Prost Brewpub: Leading the new generation of brewpubs in Jubilee Hills; huge, hip and well stocked with house ales. noon-midnight

36 Downtown: An agreeable after-hours stop, with house-brewed ales and cider, live bands and DJs; near Madhapur metro. noon-11.45pm

Broadway: Not far from Pedamma Gudi metro, with gleaming brewing tanks in the window and quality house beers on tap. noon-11.30pm

Banjara’s Arty Side

See the new face of Hyderabad

If you feel the need to escape the noisy traffic, duck into the back lanes of Banjara Hills, where several interesting cultural centres and galleries showcase the city’s creative side.

Just north of Banjara Hills Road No 4, the excellent Kalakriti Art Gallery hosts regular shows by local artists, many reinventing or subverting traditional Indian artistic styles. There’s a good shop with eye-catching art objects for sale, and a calm cafe upstairs where you can catch your breath away from the city clamour.

Behind Kalakriti, reached via the next road to the west, the Lamakaan Cultural Centre is an ‘inclusive cultural space’ that lives up to its remit – it’s always full of creative people discussing new projects and ideas, and it hosts film screenings, music performances, lectures and other events. Drop by the attached Irani cafe for a coffee or a snack and soak in the creative buzz.

Take it to Tollywood

Discover India’s second-biggest film industry

The Telangana and Andhra Pradesh film industry – known locally as ‘Tollywood’ – is massive, accounting for 20% of films made in India. So too is the 6.7-sq-km Ramoji Film City on the outskirts of Hyderabad, where films and TV shows in Telugu, Tamil and Hindi are rolled out by a well-oiled movie machine. To go behind the scenes, Telangana Tourism runs tours to Film City, or you can arrange tours directly with the studio. Day-visit tickets include a vintage bus tour of the studio lots, funfair rides, recreated song-and-dance performances and a visit to the sets used for the Telugu blockbuster, Baahubali, one of the highest grossing Indian action movies of all time.

HITS OF TOLLYWOOD

Centred in Hyderabad, the Tollywood film industry is fast gaining on Bollywood, producing up to 200 full-length feature films every year, alongside thousands of hours of television shows for India’s 96 million Telugu speakers.

The biggest Tollywood smash of all time was the 2017 historical blockbuster, Baahubali 2, the first Telugu film to take more than ₹10 billion at the box office. This all-action romp almost doubled the take of the previous record-holder, the original Baahubali – at the time, the most expensive Indian movie ever produced. The big hit of the 2020s was 2023’s controversial RRR, an all-guns-blazing, Raj-era retribution tale casting the British Army as vanquished villains.

Beyond Hyderabad

Escape Hyderabad’s magnetic pull and you’ll find quieter, culturally interesting townships steeped in history, accessible by chartered taxi or local bus.

It may be hard to drag yourself away from Hyderabad’s fabulous food and wonderful historical sites and museums, but more treasures await in the surrounding countryside. Trains, buses and taxis can whisk you to the dramatic fort at Bhongir and the interesting town of Warangal (or its twin-town, Hamankonda), the former capital of the 12th-century Kakatiya dynasty.

Places

Bhongir (Bhuvanagiri)

Warangal

Hamankonda

Palampet

Nagarjunakonda

GETTING AROUND

A chartered car and driver is the easiest way to explore the area around Hyderabad. However, it can take a long time to get back into the city at the end of the day against the flow of rush-hour traffic. If you’d rather take public transport, Bhongir is easily accessible by bus and Warangal is served by regular trains. To reach Warangal by road, take a bus to nearby Hamankonda and change to an autorickshaw.

Bhongir (Bhuvanagiri) TIME FROM HYDERABAD: 1½ HRS

A thrilling scramble to the top of a fort with spectacular views

About 60km east of Hyderabad, and best visited as an out-and-back day trip, Bhongir (Bhuvanagiri) is dominated by a vast, egg-shaped granite outcrop, crowned by the remains of Bhongir Fort, founded by the Chalukyas in the 12th century but much modified by later Islamic rulers.

The scattered ruins are less impressive than the views across a wide sweep of countryside, and the steep, slightly precarious scramble up the curving surface of the outcrop. Watch your footing and stay on the inside of the handrails.

Buses heading on to Warangal/Hamankonda are infrequent; your best bet is to take a shared autorickshaw from the bus stand to Jangaon, changing to a bus or shared 4WD to Hamankonda.

Bhongir Fort | KAPIL PATI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Warangal TIME FROM HYDERABAD: 3 HRS

Dive into impressive ruins at Warangal Fort

The historic town of Warangal is famous as the former capital of the Hindu Kakatiya dynasty, and the setting for terrible battles during the Islamic conquest of central India. On the southern edge of town, Warangal Fort was the scene of three sieges by the forces of Alauddin Khilji and his successors, including the battle where the Koh-i-Noor diamond was wrested from the Kakatiyas, before being whisked away by the Mughals and seized by the British to become part of the crown jewels.

Set inside three successive rings of towering walls, the fort was founded in the 12th century, but it was ransacked and repurposed by a string of Muslim rulers. The most impressive structure here is the vast, partly reconstructed Svayambhu Temple, guarded by four spectacular torana gateways. The toppled stones have been rather scrappily reassembled, but there are some stunning carvings, alongside deities and bas-reliefs hacked and defaced by the armies of the Delhi sultanate.

More ancient temples dot the streets of the village behind the Svayambhu Temple, and nearby is the Kush Mahal, a 16th-century Islamic audience hall (entered on the same ticket). Head south from the Svayambhu Temple and bear right to reach the timeworn arches of the Konda Masjid mosque. There’s plenty more to discover so ask an autorickshaw to drop you by the Svayambhu Temple and set off on foot to explore.

Warangal is easily accessible by train from Hyderabad or Vijayawada. Coming by bus, head instead for the adjacent town of Hamankonda, about 5km northwest, then take an autorickshaw.

THE IGNOBLE JOURNEY OF THE KOH-I-NOOR

Few gemstones have such a storied history as the Koh-i-Noor. Originally mined from the Kollur mine in Andhra Pradesh, this gigantic 105.6-carat diamond became the prized possession of the Hindu kings of Kakatiya, before being seized as a trophy by the Delhi sultanate. The sultans relinquished the stone to the Mughals, who forfeited it to the Persian conqueror Nader Shah, whose descendants traded it for support from the Afghan Durrani dynasty. In turn, the Durranis traded the gem for support from the Sikh empire, which ceded the stone to the British as part of the Treaty of Lahore. Today, this much-coveted gem resides in the Tower of London, forming the centrepiece for the crown of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother.

EATING AROUND HYDERABAD: OUR PICKS

Sri Geetha Bhavan: Set back from a busy junction in Hamankonda, with good South Indian veg dishes served in an indoor dining hall. 7.30am-10.30pm ₹

Kanishka Coffee Shop: Well-priced and tasty eats in the popular AC veg restaurant at Hamankonda’s Hotel Ashoka. 7am-10.30pm ₹₹

Kadambari Family Restaurant: Hamankonda’s Hotel Ashoka also serves quality non-veg grub, including biryani and treats from the tandoor. noon-10.30pm ₹₹

Haritha Vijay Vihar Restaurant: The Telangana Tourism hotel – near the jetty for trips to Nagarjunakonda – rustles up decent veg and non-veg meals. 8am-9pm ₹₹

Hamankonda TIME FROM HYDERABAD: 4 HRS

Pay your respects at the temples

Warangal flows into the neighbouring town of Hamankonda, which has much more regular bus services and a string of imposing temples from the Kakatiya era. Set aside a whole morning or afternoon to explore by autorickshaw – there’s lots to see.

The top sight in Hamankonda is the ornate, black granite 1000-Pillared Temple, constructed in the 12th century (but only using around 300 pillars). Huge, wonky and atmospheric, it’s a popular stop for Hindu devotees as well as history buffs. There are shrines to the sun god Surya (to the right as you enter), Vishnu (in the centre) and Shiva (on the left). Behind the temple rises Hamankonda Hill, site of the original Kakatiya capital.

Dotted around the hill and adjacent outcrops are more historic temples, most embellished with contemporary paint jobs and gaudy statues. Head west from the 1000-Pillared Temple and take the next turn south to reach the Padmakshi Temple, a hybrid Hindu and Jain mandir (temple) set amid balanced boulders and covered in 12th-century painted bas-reliefs. Nearby is the gaudy Sri Siddeshwar Devalayan Temple with a growing collection of colourful sculptures fringing its 3rd-century mandapa (pillared hall).

The busiest temple for devotees is the imposing and truly ancient Bhadrakali Temple on the lakeshore in Warangal. Constructed in the classic South Indian style by the Chalukya dynasty in the 7th century CE, it enshrines a fearsome idol of the mother goddess Kali with a weapon in each of her eight hands. According to legend, the Koh-i-Noor diamond was once installed as the deity’s left eye by the Kakatiya kings. As you enter the inner sanctum, note the ceremonial fire pit and the carriages topped by brass animals, used for temple processions.

Bhadrakali Temple | SUDHANSU RANJAN DAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE KAKATIYAS

A dozen great empires rose and fell in Telangana and Andhra Pradesh, from the Reddi dynasty of the Andhra coast to the Vijayanagar kings, who relocated their flagging empire from Hampi in Karnataka to Chandragiri near Tirupati.

But the region’s greatest homegrown rulers were the Kakatiyas, who ruled over vast swathes of Telangana, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Odisha from the 12th to the 14th centuries. The Kakatiyas were responsible for uniting the highlands and lowlands of southeast India, creating a cohesive identity for Telugu speakers for the first time. The ruined temples of the Kakatiyas’ great capital can still be viewed around the twin towns of Warangal and Hamankonda.

Palampet TIME FROM HYDERABAD: 4 HRS

Visit Telangana’s most ornate temple

Telangana’s most impressive temple lies around 70km northeast of Warangal near Palampet. The best way to get here is with a chartered car and driver, though Telangana Tourism runs a coach tour from Hyderabad on Saturday. Built in the early 13th century, the Ramappa Temple is the high point of Kakatiya architecture, and every part of the interior and exterior is covered in wonderfully detailed carvings of wild animals, lovers, wrestlers, musicians, dancers, deities and mythical creatures.

From a distance, the temple looks small but its size and stunning ornamentation becomes clear as you get closer. Surrounded by smaller temples and piles of toppled masonry, the cruciform main temple is topped by a tall gopuram (gateway tower) constructed from red sandstone, but many of the finer carvings are executed in black basalt.

The most impressive chisel-work adorns the supporting columns inside the mandapa, the spectacular doorway guarding the inner sanctum, and the sensuously carved roof struts supporting the overhanging roof. There are more ruined temples on the shores of Ramappa Cheruvu lake, 1km south of the ruins, where you can arrange speedboat rides.

Ramappa Temple carvings | SRIRAM KC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DIVIDING TELANGANA & ANDHRA PRADESH

Until 2014 Telangana and Andhra Pradesh were united as a single state – created in 1956 along linguistic lines. Unfortunately, the state was always contentious; it brought Telugu speakers from the coast under Hyderabadi control, and it reduced the number of government jobs available for people from formerly independent Hyderabad State.

After 60 years of dissatisfaction, the region was formally divided, with two state governments and two pools of reserved government jobs.

The practicalities, however, are taking time to resolve. Hyderabad continued to administer both states until 2024, and the current plan for Andhra is a three-part capital, based in Visakhapatnam, Kurnool and Amaravathi near Vijayawada. Whether this will be the final picture remains to be seen…

Nagarjunakonda TIME FROM HYDERABAD: 3–4HRS

See relocated Buddhist wonders

Floating in the middle of the man-made Nagarjuna Sagar lake, the island of Nagarjunakonda contains the relocated ruins and relics of an ancient centre for Buddhist learning, founded under the Ikshvaku dynasty in the 3rd and 4th centuries CE. The brick plinths, monastic cells and chaityas (stupas) here were moved from the valley floor when the area was flooded by construction of the Nagarjuna Sagar Dam in the 1950s.

The highlight of a visit to the island is the museum, displaying carvings, artefacts and some impressive Buddha statues recovered from the now submerged site. Behind the museum, various ruins have been reconstructed along a winding walking path across the island.

The island is only accessible via an infrequent ferry, so you’ll need to arrive early in the day. Boats officially depart at 9.30am and 1.30pm from a jetty near the Haritha Vijay Vihar hotel, but services are routinely late. On either boat, you’ll get an hour or two on the island – just enough time to see the museum and speed around some of the reconstructed ruins.

Back on the lakeshore, it’s worth heading south to view the imposing Nagarjuna Sagar Dam, and north to explore the calm compound of the Buddhavanam heritage park, with a vast reconstruction of the Amaravathi stupa. The interior and exterior of the dome are covered in impressive cement carvings of scenes from the life of the Buddha and key events from Indian history. The grounds around the stupa are dotted with peaceful gardens, meditation spaces and gleaming white models of famous stupas from around the world. Nearby, the Dhamma Nagajjuna Centre (nagajjuna.dhamma.org) caters to modern-day seekers of enlightenment with regular meditation courses.

Nagarjuna Sagar is around 150km southeast of Hyderabad on the Telangana–Andhra border, so visiting means a long day trip. The best way to come here is with a chartered car and driver, but you can also get here at weekends on organised full-day coach tours arranged by Telangana Tourism in Hyderabad. The Saturday trip is unreliable, but the Sunday service usually operates.

BEST BUDDHIST SITES IN ANDHRA PRADESH & TELANGANA

Amaravathi: Only the base of the Amaravathi mahachaitya (great stupa) remains, but you can view the lavish carvings that covered it in the nearby museum.

Nagarjunakonda: Relocated ruins of an ancient Buddhist monastic complex, plus a modern reproduction of the great Amaravathi stupa at Buddhavanam.

Sankaram: Twin hills near Visakhapatnam, crowned by a riot of cave temples, rock carvings and stupas large and small.

Bavikonda & Thotlakonda: A little over-restored, these hilltop stupa and monastery ruins offer grand views along the coast near Visakhapatnam.

Guntupalli: A remote Buddhist site near Eluru (between Vijayawada and Visakhapatnam) with well-preserved monastic quarters and a rock-cut chaitya-griha (stupa hall).

Vijayawada

TEMPLES | FORTIFICATIONS | BUDDHIST HISTORY

A busy commercial and industrial city on the north bank of the Krishna River, Vijayawada is fairly unremarkable in itself, but the town is a handy hub for exploring some interesting temples and ancient sites, including the ruins of the enormous Buddhist stupa at Amaravathi. For locals, the city is on the up and up thanks to the new administrative complex for the state government of Andhra Pradesh, which is under construction at Amaravathi on the south side of the river. It’s worth making an overnight stop to explore the surrounding countryside; Vijayawada has excellent transport links by air, rail and road, and some decent places to stay and eat near the train station. Once the source of most of India’s diamonds, today the Krishna River is diverted at Vijayawada into a network of irrigation canals and the huge reservoir on the west side of the Prakasam Barrage.

GETTING AROUND

Autorickshaws can take you to the revered (and rapidly expanding) Kanaka Durga Temple and the Undavalli Cave Temples on the south side of Krishna River. Kondapalli Fort is accessible by chartered taxi or local train from Vijayawada’s central train station. Long-distance rail services connect Vijayawada to Bengaluru, Chennai, Hyderabad, Tirupati and destinations north towards Kolkata. For travel by road, comfortable private buses run from the old bus stand east of the train station, while government buses use Pandit Nehru Bus Station to the south. Indigo flights buzz around the state from Vijayawada’s expanding airport, 25km east of the centre.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Undavalli Cave Temples

SIGHTS

2   Kanaka Durga Temple

SLEEPING

3   Hotel Minerva Grand

4   Hotel Sripada

EATING

5   Arya Bhavan

Blue Fox (see 3)

6   Eat Street

7   TFL

TOP TIP

Private sleeper buses arrive and depart from ticket stands and designated stops around Vijayawada’s old bus stand on Vijayawada Rd, and competition keeps prices reasonable for overnight trips to Hyderabad, Visakhapatnam and Tirupati. Most services leave late in the evening; take advantage of the train station cloakroom to store your bags.

Colourful & Revered Temple

Join devotees at the Kanaka Durga temple

Dating back to the 12th century, the important Kanaka Durga Temple on Indrakeeladri Hill looks unenticing from a distance, thanks to an untidy straggle of modern administrative buildings, but the temple itself is full of enthusiastic pilgrims and colourful depictions of deities and mythical beings. You can line up for free and face a long wait, or pay for express entry and zoom up seven floors of caged walkways to the temple courtyard. The temple is by the river, close to the Prakasam Barrage.

Rock-Carved History

Clamber through the Cave Temples

A 9km autorickshaw ride southwest of Vijayawada, the impressive four-storey Undavalli Cave Temples were carved into a rocky hillside by Buddhist monks in the 2nd century CE, but were converted to Hindu use in the 7th century. Today, the moody, rock-cut shrines are largely empty, except for the chambers on the third level, which retain some intricate carvings of Ganesh and Narasimha and an enormous reclining Vishnu. In front of the shrine, a row of rather over-restored, gnome-like rishis (saints) gaze out over the rice paddies.

Ravaged Ruins & Silent Walks

Wander around Kondapalli Fort

About 25km northwest of Vijayawada, time-ravaged Kondapalli fort was constructed in around 1360 by the Hindu rulers of the Reddi dynasty. It was captured and remodelled by a string of later rulers, including the kings of Vijayanagar, the Qutb Shahis of Golconda and the British.

Today, the restored Durbar Hall contains a small museum, while other parts of the fort are mostly open to the sky. Interesting features include halls lined with Islamic arches, the remains of a zenana (women’s residence) and a vaulted prison block.

At the rear of the complex, a crude path marked by painted arrows climbs across granite outcrops to the next ridge, topped by a bas relief of Hanuman (the Hindu monkey god) and an ancient lookout gazing out over Kondapalli village.

Locally, Kondapalli is known for its colourful wooden toys depicting Andhra villagers and the 10 principal incarnations of Vishnu. Get here from Vijayawada by chartered taxi or take a local train and hike uphill from the village.

Supersized Religious History

Admire the giant stupa at Amaravathi

About 43km west of Vijayawada, easily reached by bus or taxi, ancient Amaravathi was a centre for Buddhist learning from the 2nd century BCE, but its great stupa – the largest in India – was constructed in the 3rd century CE. Amaravathi flourished as a capital of the Satavahana kingdom, which ruled large parts of the Deccan for four or five centuries.

Today, only the brick base remains of the once 27m-high, 49m-wide stupa, but the richly carved panels that once covered its gigantic dome and sections of its ornate vedika railing are displayed in a small museum southeast of the site.

The quality of the carvings is extraordinary, with intricate depictions of the stupa in use and scenes from the life of the Buddha executed in gleaming white marble. Regrettably, several sections were spirited away to museums overseas, including to the British Museum in London.

Nearby, the 38m-tall Dhyana Buddha statue depicts Buddha in the seated dhyana mudra position, overlooking a serene stretch of the Krishna River from the top of a carving-inlaid lotus flower plinth.

At the end of the main bazaar in Amaravathi, the gopuram-topped Amara Lingeswara Temple enshrines a tall stone lingam (phallic image of Shiva), said to be one of the five parts of the invincibility-granting Shiva lingam used by the demon-king Tarakasura to defeat the gods – a story recounted in the epic 4th-century poem, the Kumarasambhava.

Stupa carvings, Amaravathi | REDDEES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BUDDHISM IN ANDHRA PRADESH

Buddhism has a long history in Andhra Pradesh. The Amaravathi stupa and other Buddhist monastic sites were founded in the 2nd century CE, and the Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang described a thriving religious community in the region in 630. Most of these ancient sites were abandoned in the medieval period.

Andhra saw a massive upsurge in interest in Buddhism in the 1950s thanks to the speeches of social reformer BR Ambedkar, who helped draft India’s constitution. He inspired hundreds of thousands of Dalit people to convert to Buddhism to escape the restrictions of the Hindu caste system. You’ll see gigantic metal statues celebrating this inspirational politician in Hyderabad and Vijwayawada.

EATING IN VIJAYAWADA: OUR PICKS

Eat Street: Lively eating in the shopping district, with dozens of food stalls on Vemula Syamala Devi St by the stadium. 7am-10pm ₹

Arya Bhavan: Quality veg treats at the Hotel Southern Grand, including all your South Indian favourites, plus tasty ice cream. 7am-11pm ₹₹

TFL: A hip, fun cafe in the ’burbs, with a covered terrace, a globe-trotting menu, and great desserts. 10am-10pm ₹₹

Blue Fox: Licensed, mood-lit and refined, the restaurant at the Minerva Grand hotel serves the best non-veg food in town. 11.30am-11pm ₹₹₹

Visakhapatnam

BEACHES | TEMPLES | FOOD

Visakhapatnam – also known as Vizag (vie-zag) – is Andhra Pradesh’s largest city and a major hub for the steel industry, thanks to its busy port. It’s also a popular seaside resort for domestic tourists, with a string of sandy beaches that the city authorities are taking increasingly good care of. For locals, Vizag is also a big destination for healthcare, with whole districts taken over by hospitals, clinics, dentists and medical suppliers. The city lacks a cohesive ‘centre’ – most things of interest to travellers are strung out along Beach Rd, running northeast from Visakhapatnam port, while the main shopping hub is Town Kotha Rd. City buses from the RTC Complex bus stand provide easy access to the famous temple at Simhachalam and other historic sights inland. When it comes to accommodation, hotels and guesthouses of varying standards stud the seafront, but some of the best choices are in the commercial part of town.

GETTING AROUND

Visag stretches for miles along the coast and the road system is convoluted, so getting around can take time. From the RTC Complex bus stand (or just ‘Complex’) in Dwaraka Nagar, public buses buzz around the city, also visiting nearby sights such as Anakapalle and the Varahalakshmi Narasimha Temple at Simhachalam. For shorter trips, autorickshaws are easy to find and drivers often offer cheaper shared rides on popular routes, or you can use Uber or Ola. The train station is 2km east of the bus stand; flights leave from Visakhapatnam Airport, west of town.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Submarine Museum

2   TU-142M Aircraft Museum

SIGHTS

3   Ramakrishna Beach

4   Sea Harrier Museum

5   Visakha Museum

6   VMRDA Park

SLEEPING

7   Dolphin Hotel

8   SKML Beach Guest House

9   The Park

EATING

10   Dharani

Horizon (see 7)

11   Seafront Food Stalls

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

12   Araku Coffee

SHOPPING

Tribes India (see 12)

TRANSPORT

13   Kailasagiri Ropeway

TOP TIP

Many visitors stay on the beachfront, but choosing a hotel in the commercial quarter near the RTC Complex means better eating choices and easier transport connections.

Ancient Carvings & Religious Devotion

Queue for darshan at Vizag’s most famous temple

Set on a high saddle between forested hills to the north of Vizag, the Varahalakshmi Narasimha Temple is thronged by pilgrims, who queue for hours to pay their respects at a shrine sacred to Varaha (Vishnu in the form of a boar) and Narasimha, Vishnu’s demon-disembowelling man-lion avatar. Queuing for the free darshan (viewing) can involve a lot of slow shuffling through cramped metal cages; pay ₹100 or ₹300 for faster access.

It’s worth coming just to see the magnificent, gopuram-topped temple buildings, constructed from local granite in the 13th century in an Odisha-influenced style. Entering the compound via an entrance to the side, you’ll pass a grand pavilion supported by lion- and elephant-shaped columns before passing into the inner courtyard (note the statue of Garuda, Vishnu’s man-bird vehicle in a shrine to the side).

Attendants rush pilgrims through the main mandapa, supported by finely carved columns. In the inner sanctum is a statue representing Varahalakshmi Narasimha, coated in thick layers of sandalwood paste. Committed devotees have their heads shaved and covered with the same mixture as an offering to the deity.

Looping around the inner courtyard, you’ll see fine carvings on the exterior of the main temple and the flanking cloister, including impressive effigies of Varaha and Narasimha and a sub-shrine in the form of a stone chariot. Before leaving the courtyard, pilgrims get a sip of holy water and free prasadam (blessed food) to take home.

The temple is 16km northwest of the centre at Simhachalam. Buses 6A and 28 leave regularly for the temple from Vizag’s RTC Complex bus stand. Buses drop visitors at the bottom of the hill – you can walk up via a steep flight of 1000 stone steps, or jump on a pilgrim shuttle bus to the top. Phones, cameras and bags must be left at the security desk.

Hit the Beach

Paddle at Andhra’s best beaches

Visakhapatnam’s city beaches aren’t quite Waikiki, but kids (and grown-ups) can still enjoy a promenade and paddle, with the usual seaside parks, food stands and amusements. Starting near the ritzy Novotel, Varun Beach morphs into Ramakrishna Beach, the city’s many seaside strip.

Things get more Waikiki-like if you head north along the coast to Rushikonda, where clear water, lifeguards and fine sparkling sand (kept clear of rubbish by regular patrols) may tempt you into the sea. There’s an Andhra Pradesh Tourism complex with showers and changing rooms, plus a boat house where you can arrange short speedboat rides and jet ski trips along the bay.

Also here is the Livein Adventures scuba-diving centre, offering boat dives for certified divers and discovery dives for newbies, visiting a submerged arch and rishi (saint) statue and rocky outcrops frequented by puffer fish, parrot fish and groupers.

The largely undeveloped beaches north of Rushikonda are wild and beautiful, but shade is limited and the fish laid out to dry in the sun by local fishermen create a pungent pong along some sections of beach.

About 25km north of Vizag is the former Dutch settlement of Bheemunipatnam, the oldest municipality in mainland Andhra, with gaudy Buddhist and Hindu sculptures on the beach, an 1861 lighthouse, an old Dutch cemetery and the reasonably clean Bheemili Beach.

THE LEGEND OF NARASIMHA

The story of Narasimha – the man-lion incarnation of Vishnu who disembowelled the demon Hiranyakashipu with his bare hands – is strongly associated with Andhra Pradesh. The deity has been worshipped here since at least the 4th century CE, and pilgrims crowd the 32 Narasimha temples dotted around the state. In the highly revered Varahalakshmi Narasimha Temple on the outskirts of Visakhapatnam, you’ll see vivid depictions of Narasimha in the act of eviscerating Hiranyakashipu, at dawn, on his lap, on the threshold of his palace – defeating the divine blessing that protected the demon from being killed by man or beast, indoors or outdoors, by day or by night, on land or in the sky, or by any weapon.

See the Military Museums

Dive into Indian military history

Clustered together at the northern end of Ramakrishna Beach are three interesting museums (all open from 2pm, or 10am on Sundays) that will entertain anyone who loved playing battle in the school playground.

The impossible-to-miss Submarine Museum is set inside the cramped interior of the 91m-long, Soviet-built, Indian Navy submarine Kursura. Visitors can squeeze along narrow corridors, examining the submarine’s torpedo tubes, control rooms, engines and sleeping quarters (and marvelling at how this jumble of wires and pipes ever managed to stay afloat).

Across the road, the TU-142M Aircraft Museum offers a similar exploration of an enormous, Soviet-era Tupolev TU-142M reconnaissance aircraft, used by the Indian Air Force to monitor its borders for nearly 29 years. The newest addition is the Sea Harrier Museum, stacked with aircraft spare parts and centred on a dangling British-built Harrier jump jet used by the Indian Navy’s White Tigers squadron.

For some bonus history, stroll 200m northeast to the small Visakha Museum, with military models, bits of navy hardware, medieval arms and armour, and historic objects from the Andhra coast.

BUDDHIST RUINS

About 4km north of Rushikonda are the Buddhist ruins of Bavikonda and Thotlakonda. Both have been heavily restored, so you won’t get a strong sense of history, but you can see substantial stupas from the 3rd century CE. A reliquary inside the mahachaitya (great stupa) at Bavikonda contains what is believed to be a genuine bone fragment from the historical Buddha. Come for the views as much as any spiritual connection. Three-wheelers are banned, so reaching the ruins involves chartering a taxi or walking from the coast road – three steep kilometres for Bavikonda, 1.5km for Thotlakonda.

Thotlakonda | ABIR ROY BARMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A Walk in the Park

Enjoy Vizag’s green spaces

The Visakhapatnam Metropolitan Region Development Authority (VMRDA) has established a string of appealing parks along the shoreline, where families (and everyone) can escape the hubbub and find some shade.

At the north end of Ramakrishna Beach, just past the posh Park hotel, VMRDA Park is a kid-friendly space to wander, with colourful sculptures and pavilions, roller-skating rinks, basketball courts, a boating lake, public yoga spaces and avenues of mature trees providing respite from the South Indian sun.

While you’re here, nip over the road to the Tribes India shop, a social project selling spices and crafts produced by the tribal communities of northern Andhra Pradesh, under the auspices of the Girijan Cooperative Corporation. Next door, the Araku Coffee cafe serves tasty Araku Valley coffee and healthy millet-based dosas and thalis.

A few kilometres north, the Kailasagiri Ropeway whisks sightseers to the top of a towering bluff for sweeping views along the coast. There’s a toy train, kids’ amusements, giant statues of Shiva and Parvati, and 40 peaceful hectares of parkland to explore.

WELL-DRESSED ANDHRA PRADESH

Andhran men favour a shirt and trousers, but saris are the go-to outfit for women – the striking patterns of Andhran saris transform any gathering into a kaleidoscope of colour. The most sought-after sari patterns come from the townships of Mangalagiri and Venkatagiri, typically woven from shimmering silk with a striking, multicoloured pallu – the decorative loose end of the saree.

The favoured way of wearing a sari in Andhra is known as nivi, with the pallu neatly pleated and draped over the left shoulder, and held in place with a pin. The style was invented in Andhra Pradesh but made popular across India by the early influencer and social reformer Jnanadanandini Devi Tagore, sister-in-law of the poet Rabindranath Tagore.

EATING IN VISAKHAPATNAM: OUR PICKS

Seafront food stalls: Ramakrishna Beach is thronged by food stalls that do brisk business after dark. 11am-10pm ₹

Sea Inn: This village dhaba (casual eatery) in Rushikonda is loved by locals for its delicious, homestyle biryanis and fish and crab curries. noon-4pm & 6.30-9pm ₹₹

Dharani: Huge thalis are the stock in trade at the Daspalla Hotel’s veg restaurant; for non-veg, try Dakshin in the next building. 6am-11pm ₹₹

Horizon: The licensed top-floor restaurant at the Dolphin Hotel serves stellar veg and non-veg food, accompanied by live music. noon-3pm & 7-11pm ₹₹₹

Beyond Visakhapatnam

Interesting detours around Visakhapatnam take in ancient Buddhist sites and the lush, green landscapes of the Araku Valley.

Well served by flights, trains and buses, Visakhapatnam is a handy hub for exploring the forested highlands of northeastern Andhra Pradesh and Buddhist sites dating back to at least the 4th century CE. The scenic railway line that snakes up between soaring hills to the Araku Valley is a reason to come to Andhra all by itself. Nearby are the magnificent Borra Caves, one of India’s most impressive cavern systems. The most popular way to visit Araku is as a day trip by train, following one of South India’s most scenic railway lines, but it’s more rewarding to stop overnight, making the most of the clean air and cooler temperatures in the hills.

Places

Anakapalle

Borra Caves

Araku Valley

GETTING AROUND

Local buses go to the sights around Visakhapatnam but chartering a taxi saves time. Book the train ride from Visakhapatnam to Araku (ARK on the IRCTC system) well in advance for a seat in the special Vistadome AC carriage. There are two services a day, leaving at 6.45am and 9.20pm, but only the morning train gets the views (return trips leave Araku at 3.45pm and 10.47pm, but often leave late).

Anakapalle TIME FROM VISAKHAPATNAM: 1½ HRS

Go chaitya spotting

Ancient Buddhist sites are dotted around Visakhapatnam, but the most interesting remains are at Sankaram, just outside the town of Anakapalle – an hour and a half from Visakhapatnam on the No 500 bus.

About 4km northeast of Anakapalle’s bus stand, two overgrown hills rise beside an irrigation canal, with intriguing stone structures peeking through the vegetation. The eastern hill is known as Bojjanakonda, dominated by a split-level cave temple, carved inside and out with fine images of the Buddha and various boddhisatvas, from between the 4th and 6th centuries CE.

A path leads to the top of the hill, where dozens of small stupas surround a massive, damaged mahachaitya and the plinth of an enormous vanished temple, flanked on all sides by brick niches.

Known as Lingalakonda, the western hill is crowned by an incredible garden of stone chaityas – carved at the same time as neighbouring Bojjanakonda. At the far end of the outcrop are two massive stupas, one flanking an unadorned cave temple. The views out across the palms and rice paddies are stunning, with the shapes of the stupas mirrored by the rounded haystacks dotted around the landscape.

Rock-cut caves, Sankaram | EXTRANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Borra Caves TIME FROM VISAKHAPATNAM: 2 HRS

Clamber through a psychedelic cave experience

About 38km before Araku, on the winding approach road from Visakhapatnam, India’s deepest cave system was hollowed out of the limestone hills by the Gosthani River, leaving behind wormlike passages and dramatic stalactites and stalagmites. Adding to the drama, Andhra Pradesh Tourism has installed a psychedelic lighting display, illuminating the vast chambers in vivid greens, reds, yellows and blues.

Slightly rickety metal steps wind through the interlinked caverns, with the tallest stairway providing access to a small sanctum containing a naturally formed Shiva lingam. The caves can get crowded at weekends, with visitors noisily testing the acoustics, to the chagrin of the bats roosting above.

The path to the caves is lined with stalls selling souvenirs and Araku’s famous ‘bamboo chicken’, roasted inside lengths of bamboo, and the zipline by the cave entrance offers out-and-back zooms for a very reasonable ₹500. The train schedule for Borra Caves station doesn’t allow for easy visits; it’s better to come by chartered vehicle from Araku or Visakhapatnam.

ANDHRA’S TOP TEMPLES

The Sri Venkateshwara Temple at Tirumala near Tirupati is one of the busiest pilgrimage destinations on earth. On some days, the temple receives more than 100,000 visitors, who drop as much as ₹840 million (US$10 million) into the donation boxes. Many also donate their hair at the temple’s massive head-shaving pavilion.

Other interesting sacred sites lie dotted around the state; just outside Visakhapatnam, the pilgrim-thronged Varahalakshmi Narasimha Temple operates a similar ‘pay to beat the queues’ entry system as Tirumala, as does the popular Kanaka Durga Temple in Vijayawada. Also worth a visit are the dramatically ruined 13th-century Ramappa Temple , close to Warangal, and the 16th-century Veerbhadra Temple at Lepakshi (best reached by train and bus from Bengaluru).

BEYOND VISAKHAPATNAM: TOP EATING PICKS

Araku Valley Coffee House: Araku’s coffee co-op serves a menu of coffee-based treats plus tasty local chocolate and sweets. 8.30am-9pm ₹

Mr Cram: A popular student hangout near Anakapalle bus stand, serving tasty biryanis at marble-topped tables. 10am-10pm ₹₹

Royal Darbar: An inviting restaurant on Araku’s main drag, serving quick meals downstairs and biryanis and curries in the AC room above. 7am-11pm ₹₹

Star Annapurna: The other upmarket eatery in Araku, good for biryanis, veg and non-veg meals and tasty curries. 7.30am-10pm ₹₹

TOP SIGHT

Sri Venkateshwara Temple

Reached by a steep hike (or easy bus ride) from the town of Tirupati, the holy hill of Tirumala is one of India’s busiest pilgrimage sites. Its crowning temple to Sri Venkateshwara is visited by more than 50,000 pilgrims every day. Entry is strictly controlled, and phones, bags and cameras must be left with the guards – collect them afterwards at the temple’s Common Delivery Centre.

LEGO 19861111/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code for prices and opening hours.

DON’T MISS

Srivari Metlu

Alipiri Metlu

Religious bazaar

Holding rooms

Outer courtyard

Inner courtyard

Ladoo counters

Srivari Metlu

Srivari Metlu, the steep, direct hiking route to Tirumala, involves a gruelling climb up 2388 steps from the outskirts of Tirupati, starting at Srinivasa Mangapuram, about 11km from Tirupati train station. It’s an option for committed pilgrims only, who earn maximum spiritual merit for the ascent.

Alipiri Metlu

Alipiri Metlu is the more popular (and easier) pilgrim trail to Tirumala. It starts at Alipiri, about 5km from Tirupati train station, and still involves an 11km tramp up 3550 steps, under an all-weather canopy. The first stage of the hike climbs steeply from the enormous 16th-century Raja Gopuram at the base of the escarpment, passing dotted food and drink stalls and rest stops at covered deity statues. At step 250, you’ll pass under the Mysore Gopuram, then the tall Gali Gopuram at step 2083, where the path levels out and a cluster of food stands, shrines and statues provides a perfect spot to break the climb. The remainder of the ascent is much less steep, snaking up through peaceful forests dotted with more deity statues and shrines. You’ll pass under the Mokalimitta Gali Gopuram at step 2910, before following the access road to the sprawl of temples and pilgrim hostels around the temple.

Religious Bazaar

Surrounding the Sri Venkateshwara temple, you’ll find a veritable city of subtemples, pilgrim rest houses and food stalls, centred on a frenetic religious market. Pilgrims stock up on everything from deity images to plastic toy guns to keep the kids happy. By the temple’s Supadham entrance, look out for vendors selling silver depictions of body parts, donated as offerings by pilgrims seeking cures for ailments.

Holding Rooms

If you want a darshan of Lord Venkateshwara, you’ll face hours of queuing inside cramped metal cages, but you’ll get to break the trip in one of the special holding rooms, where attendants serve up a free meal of prasadam to the waiting crowds. Eventually, the gates open and pilgrims surge fowards with enthusiastic shouts of ‘Govinda!’ – an alternative name for the Tirumala deity.

Outer Courtyard

The temple consists of two mighty granite courtyards entered via gopuram gateways, constructed in the 15th century in the Vijayanagar era over 10th-century foundations. You’ll first enter the outer courtyard, embellished with lavish carvings and dotted with sacred objects – including the metal crowbar that the 11th-century yogi Ananthalwar mistakenly used to thump Lord Venkateshwara on the chin.

Inner Courtyard

Passing the flower-adorned base of the temple’s dhvajastambha (ceremonial flagstaff), you’ll enter the inner courtyard and be ushered rapidly past the dark stone chamber containing the paste-daubed idol of Lord Venkateshwara, credited with the power to grant any wish. During the nine-day Srivari Brahmotsavam festival in September or October, the wait for a view of this revered statue can exceed 24 hours.

Ladoo Counters

After leaving the temple, pilgrims rush to the temple’s famous ladoo (sweet) counters, which dole out millions of free sweetmeats made from chickpea flour, cardamom and dried fruits every day. Darshan entitles you to one free ladoo; some pilgrims pay extra for big bags stuffed with the treats.

DARSHAN

For a sacred viewing of the deity inside the temple, follow the covered path behind the Tirumala shopping centre to the Supadham entrance. Join the ‘Special ₹300 Darshan’ queue and present your passport; after searches, form stampings and a ₹300 fee to avoid the (free) eight-hour queue, you’ll take the fast-track route to the inner sanctum, a process that can still take two to three hours.

TOP TIPS

• Tirumala and the Sri Venkateshwara Temple are open 24 hours.

• The Alipiri and Srivari Metlu pilgrim trails are closed to children from late afternoon to early morning because of the risk from wild animals.

• You need your passport to join the fast ‘Special ₹300 Darshan’ queue.

• The temple’s valuables storage system is well organised, but for an easier darshan, leave your phone, camera and bag at your hotel.

• Food and drinks are widely available at the temple and along the pilgrim trails.

• Some trains to Tirupati arrive at Renigunta Junction, 11km east; regular pilgrim buses connect to Tirupati bus station, train station, Alipiri and Tirumala.

Araku Valley TIME FROM VISAKHAPATNAM: 4 HRS

Explore Andhra’s tranquil and scenic highlands

Hemmed in by the towering green hills of the Eastern Ghats, around 115km north of Visakhapatnam, the broad Araku Valley is the end point for Andhra’s most scenic train ride. A special daytime train with giant windows (Vistadome) offers uplifting views of the hills, and the schedule allows for a four-hour visit to Araku town, returning in the afternoon.

Be sure to visit the town’s Tribal Museum, which introduces the region’s diverse tribal communities, using colourful dioramas and artefacts. There are evening dance shows, and high-ropes-style activities for the kids.

North of town near the train station, the Padmapuram Botanical Garden is a peaceful sprawl of camphor, red sandalwood and cinnamon trees, ornamental topiary and rose beds. The small coffee museum at the Araku Valley Coffee House is worth a few minutes for its dioramas explaining how the coffee plant was smuggled out of the Middle East into India.

It’s worth staying overnight to enjoy the unpolluted highland air and cooler temperatures compared to the coast. Hotels can arrange guides for walks and taxis for trips through the forested hills to local viewpoints, honey farms, waterfalls and the Borra Caves.

Araku Valley | VIVEK CHOWDARY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SEEING MORE OF TIRUPATI

Many visitors to Tirupati pay their respects at the legendary Sri Venkateshwara Temple at Tirumala and move quickly on, but there’s more to see around the holy hill.

In the centre of Tirupati, reached through an enormous white gopuram, the Sri Govindarajaswamy Temple was founded in the 12th century, enshrining an unusual image of Vishnu reclining in the meditative yoga nidra position. About 15km west of Tirupati, Chandragiri Fort was the final capital of the Vijayanagar empire in the 16th century. Inside the rather fancifully restored palace buildings, fusing Hindu and Islamic features, you can view some impressive carvings of Vishnu’s supreme devotees, the Alvars, and deities representing the Navagrahas (the sun and planets).

Places We Love to Stay

₹ Budget ₹₹ Midrange ₹₹₹ Top End

Hyderabad

Beehive Commune Hyderabad ₹ A spotlessly clean hostel off Road No 12 in Banjara Hills, with a lounge, kitchen, and mixed and women-only dorms.

Hotel New Gopi Residency ₹ A calm, comfortable cheapie set amidst furniture shops, in a handy Abids location just a short walk from Nampally metro.

Golden Glory Guesthouse ₹ A rare budget choice in posh Banjara Hills, set close to restaurants off Road No 3, and handy for Punjagutta metro.

Hotel Raj Inn ₹₹ The rooms are less showy than the lobby, but Hotel Raj Inn scores points for professional staff and being close to Secunderabad’s best restaurants.

Taj Mahal Hotel ₹₹ An Abids stalwart, with a heritage wing, a smart modern annexe, an exceptional veg restaurant and reasonable prices.

Royalton Hotel ₹₹ A solid all-rounder with well-appointed rooms in a handy location close to Nampally metro and Hyderabad train station.

The Park ₹₹₹ Luxurious but affordable, this stylish modern property near Hussain Sagar lake has a modern design sensibility and exceptional places to eat and drink.

Taj Falaknuma Palace ₹₹₹ Hyderabad’s top hotel, filling the lavish palace of the sixth Nizam. Guests arrive by horse-drawn coach through peacock-filled grounds.

Warangal & Hamankonda

Hotel Bhilva Inn ₹₹ Friendly service, immaculately clean rooms and a handy location close to Warangal’s Bhadrakali Temple; it’s above an electronics store.

Hotel Ashoka ₹₹ Set back from the main road in Hamankonda, with comfy air-con rooms and great eating at Kanishka (veg) and Kadambari (non-veg).

Nagarjuna Sagar & Palampet

Haritha Lake View Resort ₹ Rooms in tasteful lakeside villas near Ramappa Temple in Palampet. Air-con rooms have waterfront terraces, while non-AC rooms are set back from the shore.

Haritha Vijay Vihar ₹₹ Right by the jetty for Nagarjunakonda boats, with lake views, green grounds, a pool and a restaurant and bar.

Vijayawada & Around

Hotel Sripada ₹ A rare budget choice in Vijayawada, and handy for the train station and old bus stand, with small but passable air-con rooms.

Haritha Resorts ₹ Run by Andhra Pradesh Tourism and right by the Dhyana Buddha statue at Amaravathi, with simple, tidy rooms.

Hotel Minerva Grand ₹₹ Close to modern malls in the commercial quarter; come for rooms with contemporary flair, a vegetarian coffee shop and the excellent Blue Fox restaurant.

Visakhapatnam

SKML Beach Guest House ₹ Simple budget rooms in a premium location, right on the seafront at Ramakrishna Beach.

Dolphin Hotel ₹₹ A stylish choice in the commercial district, containing one of Vizag’s best restaurants (Horizon) and some of its best rooms.

The Park ₹₹₹ By the lighthouse at the northern end of Ramakrishna Beach, with extremely stylish rooms, three restaurants, two bars and a pool.

Tirupati

Hotel SLS Grand ₹₹ A neat and tidy midrange hotel, close to the Tirupati bus stand, but set back from the noisy main drag.

Minerva Grand ₹₹ Stylish accommodation near the bus stand, with two excellent restaurants – veg Minerva Coffee Shop and non-veg, licensed Blue Fox.

Araku Valley

Hotel Rajadhani ₹ A friendly cheapie near Araku train station, with fan or air-con rooms, and eats on-site or next door at Hotel Rajadhani Grand.

Haritha Valley Resort ₹₹ An inviting government-run property, with a pool and spacious rooms dotted around a green garden on the edge of Araku.

Kerala

BACKWATERS, BEACHES AND SOUTHERN CULTURE

From sparkling palm-shaded backwaters and gold-tinged beaches to the wildlife-prowled mountains of the Western Ghats: welcome to one of India’s most magical corners.

KRAVTZOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

With a name born from the Malayalam words for ‘land’ and ‘coconut’, it’s no surprise that Kerala’s lush, palm-sprinkled landscapes have landed it a much-loved spot on India’s tourism map. But somehow, all this immense natural beauty is just a taste of what makes India’s southwesternmost state a joy to explore.

Defined both historically and culturally by its dramatic geography, Kerala has been attracting traders for millennia with its fragrant spices. Gold-tinged beaches washed by tropical surf give way to glinting backwaters reflecting endless palms, beyond which rise the misty peaks of the sparsely populated and wonderfully biodiverse Western Ghats, home to a string of fiercely protected wildlife reserves.

Go trekking, cycling, kayaking, surfing, boating and wildlife-spotting in nature, but don’t miss the thrills of Kerala’s dynamic cities – from Kochi’s dazzling contemporary-art scene to Trivandrum’s historical wonders and Kannur’s go-slow charm. Wherever you go, ancient arts, vibrant festivals and fabulous coconut-laced food infuse day-to-day life.

Before modern-day Kerala state was born in 1956, Arab, Portuguese, Dutch and British powers rivalled each other here for centuries. Now, Kerala ranks among India’s most progressive regions, with people moving here from elsewhere across the country in search of opportunities.

Despite its popularity, many of Kerala’s most memorable moments are still about quiet escapes, whether that means catching a peachy sunrise over the rippling backwaters, sharing a freshly-cooked family meal at a homestay or soaking up the sounds of the forest on a trek through the ethereal Western Ghats.

Houseboat, Alappuzha | PAUL HARDING 00/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE MAIN AREAS

KOCHI (COCHIN)

Arty, culture-rich historical hub.

ALAPPUZHA (ALLEPPEY)

Backwaters, beaches and houseboats.

MUNNAR

Tea capital, mountain magic and trekking.

PERIYAR TIGER RESERVE

Rich wildlife and mountain landscapes.

VARKALA

Beach time, surf scene and yoga.

KANNUR

Ancient arts, peaceful beaches and northern backwaters.

WAYANAD

Wildlife, trekking and homestays.

Find Your Way

Kerala’s coastline stretches across almost 600km of southwest India, though this is still one the country’s smaller states. Landscapes sweep from tropical shores to the mighty Western Ghats mountains, with road transport complementing efficient rail and air links across the state.

Plan Your Time

Kerala is a large and varied region, so it pays to pick what you’re keen to prioritise and build your trip around that, from beaches and surfing in the sunny south to wildlife-spotting in the Western Ghats.

Kochi | VLADIMIR ZHOGA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

10-Day Southern Express

• Dive into classic Kerala with a south-focused adventure starting in lively Kochi, where contemporary and ancient arts mingle. Train-travel south to Alleppey for a couple of days of kayaking, canoeing or houseboating on the backwaters, before exploring mellow Munroe Island en route to cliff-edged Varkala. This is the perfect spot for yoga, surfing and ayurveda, plus day trips to Kerala’s museum-filled capital Trivandrum.

• Depending on your exact itinerary, you should just have time to weave in a two-day side-trip to the wonderful Western Ghats – pick from tea-plantation beauty in Munnar or wildlife riches in Periyar Tiger Reserve.

A Taste of the North

• With two to three weeks, savour Kerala’s quiet north before travelling south. Spend a few days beach-lazing in Bekal, exploring the Valiyaparamba backwaters and catching theyyam in Kannur, where Thottada Beach makes a perfect base. Then it’s inland to Wayanad for mountain treks, Western Ghats scenery and wildlife-spotting safaris.

• Head south via Calicut (great food if stopping overnight) to Kochi for history walks, food tours, cosy cafes, art explorations, and day trips to history-filled Chennamangalam or beachy Marari. From here, travel inland to tea-growing Munnar, perhaps via the backwaters or lakeside Kumarakom.

More Time

• Soak up Kerala’s beauty on a south-to-north extravaganza from surf-loving Varkala. Day-trip to the capital Trivandrum or add on beachy Kovalam, with spectacular Padmanabhapuram Palace nearby. Then head north for backwaters scenery on Munroe Island and/or Alleppey, both with rewarding canoeing and paddleboarding.

• Reaching the Western Ghats takes work, but it’s all worth it once you’re trekking through Periyar Tiger Reserve, from where roads lead directly to Munnar for tea plantations, treks and homestays. Allow several days to soak up cultural Kochi. Trains then zip you north; find budget-friendly homestays in Kannur or luxury retreats in Bekal, and don’t miss beautiful Wayanad.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

November to March means pleasant tropical weather, while March to June is hot. Monsoons bring rains in July/August and October/November.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY

Peak season, great wildlife-watching and glorious weather for beaches and backwaters, plus celebrations including Kerala Literature Festival and Kochi’s Ernakulathappan Utsavam.

MARCH

Great season for wildlife-spotting and trekking in the Western Ghats; colourful temple festivals in Kollam (Quilon), Kottayam and more.

APRIL

Pooram temple celebrations in Thrissur, Kollam, Palakkad and beyond; dates vary according to the traditional Malayalam calendar and might fall in March.

JULY

Monsoon season is here, bringing rains and accommodation discounts (though some places close); this is also the traditional time for ayurveda retreats.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER

Kerala’s greatest cultural celebration arrives with Onam, while Alleppey’s famous Nehru Trophy Boat Race draws thousands in mid-August.

NOVEMBER

Catch the start of theyyam season and ideal trekking and surfing conditions (all until April); Kollam hosts its prestigious President’s Trophy Boat Race.

DECEMBER

Celebrations galore: Christmas, Cochin Carnival and the International Film Festival of Kerala, kicking off the Kochi–Muziris Biennale. Go surfing, swimming, trekking and wildlife-spotting; see theyyam.

Kochi (Cochin)

ARTS SCENE | KERALA HISTORY | FOOD CULTURE

Set on a sweeping estuary that has drawn traders for centuries, Kochi is much more than its embattled history, starting with a thriving contemporary arts scene and a wonderfully rich gastronomy drawing on countless different communities that have settled here.

This is the only place in India where three European powers took control one after the other – the Portuguese from 1500 onwards, the Dutch from the 1660s and the British from 1795 until Independence. Overlooking the Arabian Sea, Fort Cochin is the historical European part of the city. Today it’s a laid-back neighbourhood where murals adorn the streets, Chinese fishing nets dot the water, and heritage buildings have been reborn as cool cafes, chic boutiques, contemporary-art galleries and some of India’s loveliest hotels. Around 3.5km southeast of Fort Cochin, Mattancherry is Kochi’s old bazaar district and spice-trading hub. Together these two areas form Old Kochi.

Meanwhile, urban life zips along in busy mainland Ernakulam, which developed from the early 20th century and is now Kerala’s business hub.

GETTING AROUND

Fort Cochin and Mattancherry are refreshingly walkable; it’s a 2km (30-minute) stroll or ₹80 autorickshaw between them. Ongoing renovations are making Fort Cochin increasingly accessible for wheelchairs. Taxis and autorickshaws are easily booked through rideshare apps like Uber and Ola. The new Kochi Water Metro now links Fort Cochin with mainland Ernakulam (more routes were being developed at time of writing). Ferries also link Fort Cochin with Ernakulam and Vypeen Island. Kochi’s metro runs across Ernakulam; at research time it was operational from Aluva (northeast) to SN Junction (southeast), though it will eventually reach the airport. Airport taxis to/from Fort Cochin cost ₹1600.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Mattancherry Palace

2   Pardesi Synagogue

SIGHTS

3   Ambikapuram Church

4   Bastion Bungalow

5   Cheenavala (Chinese Fishing Nets)

6   David Hall

7   Dutch Cemetery

8   Gallery OED

9   Idha

10   Indo-Portuguese Museum

11   Jewish Cemetery

12   Kashi Art Gallery

13   Kazhcha Art Gallery

14   Mahatma Gandhi Beach

15   Nehru Park

16   Santa Cruz Basilica

17   St Francis Church

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

18   Neema’s Kitchen

SLEEPING

19   Beena Homestay

20   Brunton Boatyard

21   Bungalow Heritage Homestay

22   Delight Home Stay

23   Fort House Hotel

24   Forte Kochi

25   Green Woods Bethlehem

26   Hotel Luciya

27   Malabar House

28   Old Harbour Hotel

29   Raintree Lodge

30   Reds Residency

31   Zostel

EATING

32   Ali Baba & 41 Dishes

33   Anantha Bhavan Inn

34   Cafficana

35   Chillies

36   Cocoa Tree

37   Fish Market

Fort House Restaurant (see 23)

38   Fort Paragon

39   French Toast

40   Fusion Bay

41   Ginger House

42   Grand Pavilion

43   Hotel Aryaas Park

Kashi Art Cafe (see 12)

44   Kayees Rahmathulla Café

Lila (see 13)

45   Loafers Corner Cafe

46   Loving Earth Cafe

Malabar Junction (see 27)

47   Mocha Art Cafe

48   Oceanos

Pandhal Cafe & Deli (see 6)

49   Qissa Cafe

50   Restaurant 1788

51   Rose St Street Food Stalls

52   Sri Krishna Cafe

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

53   Armoury Restobar

54   DiVine

55   Old Lighthouse Bristow Hotel

ENTERTAINMENT

56   Kerala Kathakali Centre

SHOPPING

57   Anokhi

58   Crossword

59   Fabindia

60   Idiom Bookshop

61   Niraamaya

62   Pepper House

63   Via Kerala

TOP TIP

A rewarding way to explore Old Kochi is on two wheels; several local operators run bike tours, while Dax Gueizelar leads bike trips to off-the-beaten-track villages out on the backwaters. Tap into Kochi’s latest restaurant openings through local food blogs like Eat Kochi Eat (@eatkochieat).

An Ancient Art

Discover Kerala’s Chinese fishing nets

Take a stroll along Fort Cochin’s northwest waterfront (near Vasco da Gama Sq) and you’ll inevitably spot Kerala’s unofficial backwaters emblem looming over the estuary – the cantilevered cheenavala, or Chinese fishing nets. Originally introduced to Kerala in around 1400 BCE by Chinese traders from the court of Kublai Khan, these giant spider-evoking nets were then adapted and enlarged under Portuguese rule, using local bamboo, teak and other materials.

While today’s large-scale fishing industry means many of these 10m-tall contraptions are slowly falling into disuse, there are around half a dozen still in full operation along Fort Cochin’s harbourfront. The best time to see the cheenavala here is at high tide, when five or six people work together to raise the catch in a delicate dance of balance and timing that is repeated several hundred times daily. Catching the nets silhouetted against the sunset is mesmerising. Nearby Vypeen Island has more beautiful cheenavala, especially just inland from Cherai and Kuzhupilly beaches, as does Kumbalanghi village south of Fort Cochin; you’ll see others further afield on Vembanad and Ashtamudi lakes.

For a truly unique experience, join conservation-driven tour operator The Blue Yonder for a fabulous home-cooked dinner out on a repurposed, lantern-lit Chinese fishing net reachable only by punt canoe, near Ezhikkara village (20km north of Fort Cochin).

Chinese fishing nets | JOHNNYCHAOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A Living Canvas

Dive into Kochi’s contemporary-art scene

Kochi has long been a hub for Kerala’s traditional arts, but in recent decades it has also grown into a lively, dynamic centre of contemporary art. Much of the scene revolves around evocative Fort Cochin, where colourful murals adorn crumbling heritage buildings and artists showcase their work at cafes, museums and galleries. Many of these are free to visit, with exhibitions changing regularly.

Pioneering Kashi Art Gallery on Burgher St was founded in the 1990s by the late Anoop Scaria, a major force behind modern Kochi’s art scene; it’s still a favourite, with rotating exhibitions and a popular cafe in a Dutch-era building.

A few doors down, Idha is a charming gallery-studio started by two artists, where you can even stay overnight. Wander a few streets west to David Hall, which hosts shows by up-and-coming artists in a restored 17th-century Dutch-style bungalow, and Kazhcha Art Gallery in a 400-year-old Dutch-built house. Over in Mattancherry, check out Gallery OED, a converted pepper warehouse with its own boutique.

Everything comes to a creative crescendo for the major, four-month Kochi–Muziris Biennale, which first kicked off in 2012 and now takes over Fort Cochin every two years with heritage properties as venues and over 90 international and Indian artists in the line-up.

SOLAR AIRPORT

In 2015, Cochin International Airport (the largest airport in Kerala) became the world’s first airport to run fully on solar power to meet its electricity needs. In fact, the airport has grown into one of Kerala’s major energy producers and is now considered power positive, inspiring other airports across India to follow in its footsteps. Empty space between some of the solar panels is being used to successfully grow chemical-free produce.

DRINKING IN KOCHI: FORT COCHIN BARS

DiVine: The wine lounge at Malabar House serves drops like Sula and Fratelli from Maharashtra and Grover Zampa from Karnataka. 11am-11pm

Old Harbour Hotel: Dreamy tropical garden for lingering over Indian wines and beers; also has a fabulous restaurant. 7.30am-11.30pm

Old Lighthouse Bristow Hotel: Grab a Kingfisher under the trees at this garden bar by the water, with views across the Arabian Sea. 11am-10pm

Armoury Restobar: Enjoy India-made Grover and Fratelli wines, and international cuisine by the harbour at Brunton Boatyard. 11am-11pm

A STROLL AROUND FORT COCHIN

With its pedestrian-friendly streets and rain-tree-shaded squares, Fort Cochin is a joy to explore on foot. Despite the tourism appeal, this is a buzzing, lived-in district. The ideal time is early morning (from just after sunrise), when Kochiites are out exercising in the cool(er) air.

1 Bastion Bungalow, a landmark Indo-European building reborn as a history museum, sits atop one of the few surviving sections of the 16th-century Portuguese Fort Immanuel, to which this district owes its name. Just behind, a seafront promenade sweeps around to small 2 Mahatma Gandhi Beach, with views of Fort Cochin’s Chinese fishing nets. Cross Vasco da Gama Sq to banyan-dotted 3 Nehru Park, where street-food stalls overlook the waterside 4 fish market, with auctions happening most days. Wander 250m south, then west, along Rose St to 5 St Francis Church, the 1503 Portuguese-built church where Vasco da Gama was once buried.

Opposite the Parade Ground, you’ll spot 6 David Hall, the only relic of three 17th-century Dutch-era houses built using materials from demolished Portuguese churches; it’s now a beautifully restored gallery-and-cafe. A 200m meander along Parade Rd then Dutch Cemetery Rd brings you to the 7 Dutch Cemetery, dedicated to Dutch traders and soldiers in 1724.

Around 500m southeast via Elphinstone Rd, the 8 Indo-Portuguese Museum has more Fort Immanuel remains in its basement. From here, head 500m northeast to the neoclassical 9 Santa Cruz Basilica, built in 1902 on the site of a 16th-century Portuguese church demolished by the British; its frescoed interior was painted by Lombardy-born artist-and-priest Antonio Moscheni. Now enjoy coffee at 10 Kashi Art Cafe.

Fort Cochin Through the Centuries

Holy landmarks and history lessons

Most Fort Cochin explorations begin at the landmark St Francis Church, a fortress-like construction that embodies the many layers of Kochi’s long history. The original wooden chapel here was built by Portuguese Franciscan friars in 1503, then replaced by the mid-16th-century, faded-yellow building we see today.

It is believed to be the oldest European-built church in India, though it was remodelled after the Dutch took Kochi in the early 1660s then again under British rule in the 1880s. Vasco da Gama was buried here for 14 years before his remains were taken to Lisbon; you can still see the original tombstone.

Continue your deep-dive into Kochi’s backstory at nearby Bastion Bungalow (closed Monday). Displays travel through Kerala’s maritime and spice-trading history, the lost port of Muziris and more, in a British-era residence built on the site of the old Portuguese Fort Immanuel.

OUR FAVOURITE KERALA DISHES

Maryann and Philip Dsouza, owners of Reds Residency homestay (@redsresidency) in Fort Cochin.

Coconut is the key element in Kerala cuisine. Start with gently spiced coconut-milk-based stew accompanied by soft appam (rice pancakes). Next, Meen pollichatthu (fish in banana leaf) is a treat; Fusion Bay serves this delightfully. Try spice-enriched beef eaten with crisp parotta (flaky flatbread). A sadya (vegetarian banquet) is a must try; Bharat Tourist Home in Ernakulam offers a wonderful spread. Don’t miss puttu kalada, steamed rice flour and coconut with black-chickpea curry.

EATING IN KOCHI: FORT COCHIN’S BEST CAFES

Kashi Art Cafe: Kochi’s original art cafe and gallery pairs a mellow setting with great coffee and organic meals. 8.30am-10pm ₹₹

Pandhal Cafe & Deli: Beautiful garden cafe at David Hall, serving coffee, home-baked cakes and international bites. 8.30am-9.30pm ₹₹

Loving Earth Cafe: Join a vinyasa class at this yoga studio; grab a Buddha bowl/smoothie in the plant-based open-air cafe. noon-10pm ₹₹

French Toast: Leafy alfresco haven in heritage-design Cochin Club. Good cakes and strong coffee. 9am-9pm Wed-Mon ₹₹

Loafers Corner Cafe: Fresh juices, coffee and tempting breakfasts in a restored Dutch-Portuguese building. 9.30am-10pm ₹₹

Lila: Opposite the Parade Ground; an elegant cafe (perfect espresso), boutique, live music, art, and chef pop-ups. 9am-10pm ₹₹

Qissa Cafe: Cakes, snacks, Indian-meets-international dishes and great coffee and juices, in a buzzy garden setting. 11am-11pm ₹₹

Armoury Restobar: Smart bar/cafe at Brunton Boatyard heritage hotel, with a terrace overlooking the harbour. 11am-11pm ₹₹₹

Royal Relics

Marvellous Dutch Palace of Mattancherry

One of Kochi’s most entrancing sights, the two-storey Mattancherry Palace was created by the Portuguese in the mid-16th century and gifted to the Raja of Kochi, Veera Kerala Varma (1537–65), before being rebuilt under Dutch rule in the 1660s (it’s also known as the Dutch Palace).

The building’s graceful mix of European and Kerala-style nalukettu architecture is a delight, but the highlights are the intricate Hindu murals depicting stories from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and Puranic legends. Dating from the 17th to 19th centuries, they were created using natural dyes and many remain astonishingly well preserved, particularly in the royal bedchamber, which includes scenes of Hanuman the monkey-god rescuing Sita from Lanka. Other standout murals show Vishnu’s 10 avatars and his consort Lakshmi, and the grounds also host a small Mahavishnu temple.

Exploring the palace with a guide who can unveil the murals’ stories is highly recommended. Braille signs are available for ‘vision-impared visitors.

A World in a Neighbourhood

Mattancherry’s multicultural makeup

Old Kochi’s trade centre Mattancherry revolves primarily around the area known as Jew Town, once home to a thriving Jewish community who arrived here from the Kodungallur area (north of Kochi) from the 14th century onwards. Although most of Kochi’s Jews have now emigrated (many to Israel), it is still possible to visit the wonderfully preserved Pardesi Synagogue (closed Friday afternoon and Saturday). Stepping through the door reveals an elaborate brass bimah surrounded by Belgian chandeliers, Murano-glass lamps and over 1000 hand-painted, willow-pattern tiles from Canton in China.

The 1568 building was partly destroyed by the Portuguese in 1662, then restored under Dutch rule two years later and renovated in 1762 by Ezekiel Rahabi, who added the Clock Tower. Outside the synagogue, old homes line Jew St (many converted into shops), while ancient tombstones fill the Jewish Cemetery nearby.

Mattancherry is also home to a wide range of other communities who have coexisted here for centuries. Just south of Jew Town is Kochi’s old Muslim quarter, with the (remodelled) 15th-century Chembattapalli mosque. Northern Mattancherry has major Konkani and Gujarati communities, among others. Kochi Heritage Project runs excellent storytelling walks focused on Mattancherry’s multicultural identity and Jewish history, plus bike tours from Fort Cochin to Mattancherry.

Jew Town | NASARUDHEEN CREATIVES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BIENNALE AND BEYOND

Edgar Pinto, owner of Kashi Art Cafe and Old Harbour Hotel in Fort Cochin, shares what makes Kochi’s art scene special.

Established in 2012 by artists, the Kochi–Muziris Biennale is also known as the People’s Biennale as it has made art much more accessible, putting it right on everyone’s doorstep. We’ve had everything from street art to installations by Anish Kapoor. The Biennale involves local and international artists, a children’s art programme and a students’ platform, and has become a real showcase of Kerala art, bringing creatives to our city. Many local artists have been picked up for shows overseas, international artists now do residencies in Kerala too, and numerous galleries are opening here.

EATING IN KOCHI: MATTANCHERRY RESTAURANTS

Sri Krishna Cafe: Fuss-free spot for masala dosa, thali lunches, idli, vada and other pure-veg South Indian favourites. 8am-9.30pm ₹

Ginger House: In an antiques-filled warehouse, serving cashew-paneer curry and pachakari stew, on a waterfront terrace. 8am-10pm ₹₹₹

Kayees Rahmathulla Café: Does a roaring lunchtime trade in chicken, seafood and mutton biryani (arrive early!) . 11.30am-4pm ₹

Mocha Art Cafe: Linger over iced coffees, omelettes and pastas in an old spice warehouse opposite the synagogue. 10am-8.30pm ₹₹

Dosa, Parotta & More

A taste of Kochi’s kitchen

With its lively mix of cultures that have settled here over the centuries, it’s no surprise that Kochi is a deliciously rich culinary treat blending Kerala-style and other Indian flavours – from cardamom-infused unniyappam (small round rice snack) and crispy vada (deep-fried lentil doughnut) at jam-packed street stalls to masala dosa for breakfast and feast-like banana-leaf sadya spreads.

Discover the secrets behind some of Kerala’s favourite recipes at long-running Neema’s Kitchen, just over the water from Fort Cochin on southern Vypeen Island. Neema Veliyath runs hugely popular three-hour South Indian cookathons in a 1930 heritage bungalow-turned-homestay; you might make Kerala fish curry, vegetable thoran (dry dish), spiced chutneys and other classics. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free diets can all be accommodated.

Or join Kochi Heritage Project for a fascinating evening food walk around Mattancherry, when the district springs to life with sizzling street-food stalls and jam-packed local kitchens. Over a few hours, you’ll taste flavours from all over India – Gujarati sweets, Konkani goli bajji (fried flour snacks), flaky Kerala parotta with juicy curry – and hear about lesser-known chapters from Kochi’s culinary story.

MATTANCHERRY CULTURES

Ajita Skaria is a local tour guide who grew up in Fort Cochin and runs Kochi Stories (kochistories.com).

If you look out the window from Mattancherry Palace, you will see a Hindu temple and tank in the grounds dedicated to Ayappa, Vishnu and Ganpati. Just beyond that are the Pardesi Synagogue (from 1568) and the Clock Tower, which was built in the 18th century and has numerals in Malayalam, Hebrew and Latin. On the other side of the palace are a mosque and a Catholic church. Here in Mattancherry we have 30 communities speaking around 16 languages, from Tamil to Gujarati.

EATING IN KOCHI: FORT COCHIN’S TOP RESTAURANTS

Restaurant 1788: The garden setting is as dazzling as the elegant Indian-international menu at Old Harbour Hotel. 7.30am-11.30pm ₹₹₹

Anantha Bhavan Inn: Perfect masala dosa, fresh puttu and steaming idli with ginger tea at this laid-back, pure-veg kitchen. 7.30am-11pm ₹

Malabar Junction: A glam poolside haven at Malabar House, serving creative East-meets-West dishes and Indian wines. 7am-11pm ₹₹₹

Oceanos: It’s all about fresh seafood with pollichathu fish, Goan-Portuguese classics and tasty veg plates. 11am-11pm ₹₹

Fort House Restaurant: Bougainvillea-filled waterside restaurant with signature seafood and Kerala dishes. 7am-10pm ₹₹

Fusion Bay: A long-running restaurant known for its Kerala-Syrian fish delicacies done spicy pollichathu style. 1-10pm ₹₹

Fort Paragon: Fort Cochin branch of legend Paragon, famous for its decadent chicken biryani and Kerala fish dishes. 11am-11pm ₹₹

Rose St Streetfood Stalls: Opposite Nehru Park, street-food stalls do fresh vada, coffee and more at plastic tables. 5.30am-6.30pm ₹

A Wander Around Panampilly Nagar

Enjoy local life in Ernakulam

Leafy Panampilly Nagar, around 1.5km south of Ernakulam Junction train station, is one of Kochi’s smartest residential neighbourhoods and a great place for a wander if you’re over in mainland Ernakulam. Originally settled in the 1970s by communities from nearby Perumanoor (which was converted into Kochi’s shipyard), today it’s known for its parks, restaurants, boutiques and celebrity residents. Start by popping into Ambikapuram Church, a 1972 creation, then wander along Panampilly Nagar Ave, which is lined with cafes, restaurants and shops including well-established bookstore Crossword. Ali Baba & 41 Dishes, Hotel Aryaas Park and Cocoa Tree are among its many popular food stops. At industrial-vibe Cafficana nearby, join the city’s cool crowd for speciality Coorg-grown coffee.

Dance, Drama & Martial Arts

Be entranced by Kerala’s arts

Kochi is a major centre for nurturing the traditional arts of Kathakali – a Kerala-born dance-drama from the 16th or 17th centuries – and kalarippayat, a fast-paced martial art dating back to at least the 12th century (many believe it is much older).

During typical hours-long Kathakali performances, actors temporarily transform into gods, heroes and demons through intricate make-up, vibrant costumes, ornamental headpieces and meditation. Traditionally most Kathakali performers are men (even for female roles), though a growing number of women are now taking up this art. Fort Cochin’s long-running Kerala Kathakali Centre hosts introductory two-hour performances, as well as hands-on workshops unveiling the artistry behind Kathakali make-up rituals. There are also kalarippayat, classical music and bharatanatyam (classical dance) shows here.

Kalarippayat involves grappling and open-hand combat, inspired by animal movements. Southern kalarippayat revolves around empty-hand fights, while its northern and central schools bring in weapons too. Keen to learn the ropes? Renowned ENS Kalari, just southeast of Ernakulam, runs intensive training courses, and also offers demonstrations (book ahead).

Dancer, Kerala Kathakali Centre | STORM IS ME/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KERALA’S HOMESTAYS

Perhaps more than anywhere else in India, Kerala has a rich and wonderfully varied homestay scene, with local families providing some of South India’s loveliest accommodation. Many of these homes are likely to be highlights of your trip. Most have just a handful of simple, comfortable rooms, though higher-end homestays are emerging too.

Plenty of home-stays also offer cooking classes – indeed, some of Kerala’s best meals are served up in family homes. Kochi is a homestay hub with hundreds of options, particularly in Fort Cochin; other hotspots include Munnar, Kumily (for Periyar Tiger Reserve), Wayanad and Thottada Beach in Kannur (see). Remote homestays are blossoming across Kerala’s backwaters too.

EATING IN KOCHI: ERNAKULAM RESTAURANTS

Chillies: All-you-can-eat thalis and spicy banana-leaf fare just off southern MG Rd, with a downstairs tandoori restaurant. 11.30am-4pm & 7-11pm ₹₹

Grand Pavilion: At Ernakulam’s Grand Hotel. A globetrotting menu; attached is all-day bar Couchyn. 7-10am, noon-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm ₹₹₹

Watson’s Pub: In north Ernakulam, this resto-bar draws fun crowds for Kerala-inspired cocktails and world-wandering food. 11am-11pm ₹₹₹

Panampilly Nagar: Swish southern neighbourhood with great places to eat, from speciality coffee at Cafficana to veg faves at Hotel Aryaas Park. ₹₹-₹₹₹

Out On the Water

Beauty of Kochi’s backwaters

Despite its coast-hugging setting, Kochi isn’t really a beach town – but there are plenty of ways to get out on the shimmering water here, with backwaters meandering north, south and inland. Exploring by local ferry is a great, budget-friendly place to start; boats zip across the estuary between Fort Cochin, Ernakulam and Vypeen Island throughout the day. The 2023-launched Kochi Water Metro is opening up local water travel via electric-hybrid boats; routes linking Ernakulam with both Vypeen Island and Fort Cochin were operational at the time of writing, but check for updates, as development is ongoing.

Active souls can paddle out on a backwaters kayaking trip with operators such as Tropiq Getaways, which offers three-hour sunrise kayak tours through the mangroves in the Kadamakudy area, 14km north of Fort Cochin. For total immersion in the serene waterscapes, book in at Kayal Island Retreat, a jewel of a four-room boutique hideaway 20km south of Kochi, reached only by boat. Days here start with marshmallow-pink sunrises over the backwaters and meals are a home-cooked treat.

Sunrise from Kayal Island Retreat | ISABELLA NOBLE/LONELY PLANET ©

EXPERIENTAL TOUR COMPANIES

Blue Yonder: Culture-rich, conservation-focused tours across Kerala, including Kochi-region day trips show-casing arts and crafts.

Breakaway: Immersive multiday itineraries with a focus on arts, textiles and crafts, by a sustainability-driven women-founded operation; also does day workshops.

Kochi Heritage Project: Devoted to sharing Kochi’s heritage through storytelling walks, food tours and other immersive experiences.

Pack Your Passport: Thoughtfully curated trips, mostly southern Kerala, including off-the-beaten-track destinations.

Traveling Gecko: A slow-travel outfitter specialising in Kerala and Tamil Nadu; Kochi highlights include meeting women Kathakali performers and exploring Mattancherry.

Moksha Stories: Community-based experiences (dance, theatre, music) across Kerala, plus adventure activities like kayaking, cycling and camping.

A Taste of Local Design

Explore Fort Cochin’s arty boutiques

In a city renowned for its art world, it’s no surprise that creative independent boutiques are blossoming. Tap into Kochi’s local-design scene at Pepper House, a reborn Dutch-style warehouse 1km east of central Fort Cochin, stocking upmarket fashion by artisanal-driven Indian brands like The Summer House, Threadology and Vanaras. Niraamaya specialises in ayurvedic clothing, accessories and yoga mats made with organic cotton and natural-herb dyes, while Via Kerala (in Mattancherry) does wonderfully original own-design souvenirs.

Other favourites include outposts of India-wide Anokhi and Fabindia, locally loved Idiom Bookshop (originally a book-selling pushcart on Kochi’s beaches) and the boutique at Lila cafe, all near the Parade Ground.

KERALA’S ELEPHANTS

Many of Kerala’s most famous festivals (such as Thrissur Pooram and Kochi’s Ernakulathappan Utsavam) trad-itionally involve big processions of caparisoned elephants.

In recent years animal-rights campaigns against this have been gaining momentum, amid concerns about the welfare of Kerala’s estimated 500 captive temple elephants. After reportedly brutal, often-abusive training, many elephants are transported in trucks from one loud festival to another; there are many recent cases of elephants collapsing (and dying) during festivals or travel.

Seeds of change are emerging, thanks to pressure from animal-rights advocates. In 2023, the Irinjalakuda Sree Krishna Temple (near Thrissur) unveiled a life-size, 800kg robotic elephant to carry out rituals, and there are ever-growing calls at both local and national level for moving towards cruelty-free celebrations and creating sanctuaries for rehoming captive elephants.

BEACHES NEAR KOCHI

If you’re craving a beach escape, head north from Fort Cochin to Cherai Beach on neighbouring Vypeen Island or travel 45km (around an hour’s drive) south to lovely Marari, both with tempting palm-fringed golden sands.

Beyond Kochi

Ancient monuments, a mythical lost city and an untouristy temple-and-festival town mingle with sprawling backwater-fringed beaches.

Heading north along central Kerala’s coastline reveals a go-slow world of long, sandy beaches backed by lazy back-waters, particularly on 27km-long Vypeen Island, which makes a great day trip or add-on from Kochi.

Roughly 30km north of Fort Cochin on the banks of the Periyar River, the lush monument-rich area around Chennamangalam, North Paravur and Kodungallur is one of the most culturally and historically fascinating pockets of Kerala. Some historians believe the ancient pepper-trading port of Muziris once stood here.

Little-touristed Thrissur, 90km north of Kochi, is a major local-festival hub with a seemingly endless parade of celebrations including Thrissur Pooram, while its surrounding region is renowned for its arts and crafts as well as a celebrated centuries-old temple at Guruvayur.

Places

Vypeen Island

Chennamangalam & North Paravur

Thrissur

GETTING AROUND

To reach Vypeen Island, take the roll-on roll-off vehicle ferry from Fort Cochin, then an autorickshaw or bus northwards if heading to Cherai Beach (or bring a rental scooter/motorbike from Fort Cochin).

The best way to explore the Chennamangalam/North Paravur area is with a Kochi-based operator such as The Blue Yonder, which organises day trips visiting handloom cooperatives and monuments (as well as longer itineraries); buses from Ernakulam (Kochi) also serve this area. Thrissur has good train and bus links to Ernakulam and beyond.

Vypeen Island TIME FROM KOCHI: 50 MINS

Lazy beach days

Catching the roll-on roll-off vehicle ferry from Fort Cochin across to mellow Vypeen Island sets the tone for a relaxed coastal escape to golden-hued, 3km-long Cherai Beach. Around 25km north of Fort Cochin, this unhurried strand with (usually) good swimming is backed by miles of meandering backwaters that seem to almost touch the seafront, with spider-like cheenavala (Chinese fishing nets) dotted along their watery expanses. Sunsets on the sand here are gorgeous (consider staying overnight), and you might even spot dolphins cavorting offshore. Weekends can get busy, so for a quieter experience visit midweek. Nearby Kuzhupilly and Munambam beaches are worth seeking out too.

On the journey north from Fort Cochin, check out the baroque-style Church of Our Lady of Hope (near the boat jetty at the south end of Vypeen Island), which dates from 1605 and was Kochi’s principal Catholic church during Dutch rule.

Chennamangalam & North Paravur TIME FROM KOCHI: 1 HR

Explore sacred sites

While the exact location of the ancient pepper-trading city of Muziris remains a mystery, several fascinating monuments in the Chennamangalam–North Paravur–Kodungallur area (25km to 35km north of Kochi) have been restored under the Muziris Heritage Project, which aims to revive the mythical lost port’s forgotten story and offers day-trip boat packages between some local sights. Note that most monuments close on Monday.

If you only visit one place here, make it the beautifully restored Chennamangalam Synagogue. Dating from 1420 (though rebuilt in 1614), this is one of Kerala’s oldest synagogues, a testament to the fact that Kerala’s Jewish communities first settled in this region before relocating to Kochi. In Paliam, 2km west of Chennamangalam, Paliam Kovilakam is the former palace-home of the Paliath Achans, the wealthy chief ministers to the Maharajas of Cochin, done in a mix of Dutch and Kerala styles.

Around 5km west of Chennamangalam, in North Paravur, lies Paravur Synagogue, built around 1616 on the site of a 12th-century predecessor; the Kerala-style building now hosts a museum of Jewish history. Another 10km north from here, Kottapuram village is home to a prettily restored market street and the scant remains of an early-16th-century Portuguese fort. Finally, Kodungallur’s remodelled Cheraman Juma Masjid (3km north of Kottapuram) is said to be the oldest mosque in India, dating from 629 CE.

Home of the handloom

The Chennamangalam area is renowned for being home to one of Kerala’s three traditional handloom-weaving communities granted Geographical Indication (GI) by the Indian government; the others are Balaramapuram near Trivandrum and Kuthampully northeast of Thrissur. Handloom-weaving in this region dates back to the 17th century, with today’s industry employing around 360 weavers (most of them women) crafting everything from saris to school uniforms. The white-and-gold Kerala kasavu cotton sari is a speciality. On a visit to some of Chennamangalam’s handful of weaving cooperatives (with a Kochi-based operator such as The Blue Yonder), you’ll hear the meditative click-clack of working looms before even stepping through the door, and get the chance to meet local weavers as they demonstrate their craft.

Chennamangalam’s handloom industry was devastated by Kerala’s 2018 floods, which caused over ₹150 million worth of damage. Happily, it is now slowly bouncing back, spearheaded by a high-profile volunteer-led campaign to repurpose ruined saris as distinctive chekkutty dolls. At the time of writing, a handloom museum was also in the works.

MUZIRIS: THE LOST CITY

Several ancient texts – including Pliny the Elder’s Natural History and the Tamil Akananuru poetry collection – mention a major port on the Malabar Coast that traded with Rome from the 1st century BCE. This was Muziris, a once-key trading hub for black pepper, spices, pearls and more. But suddenly, it disappeared without a trace; many historians attribute this to a great 1341 flood, also thought to have created Kochi’s harbour and Vypeen Island.

Some experts believe Muziris was located in/near modern-day Kodungallur (35km north of Kochi), though the oldest relics excavated here so far date from the 13th century. More recent excavations revealed Roman amphorae and other artefacts at nearby Pattanam village; some archaeologists believe this was Muziris. The jury, however, is still out.

EATING IN THRISSUR: OUR PICKS

Hotel Bharath: Thrissur’s top pure-veg spot gets busy for lunchtime thalis, fragrant curries and Kerala-style breakfasts (dosa, vada). 6.30am-10pm ₹

Corniche Resto: Stylish hangout for global-inspired menus infused with Indian flavours (paneer-tikka burgers, masala-prawn rice, various pastas). noon-10pm ₹₹

Indian Coffee House: All the idli, masala dosa, vada and South Indian coffee you could dream of at a super-central ICH branch on Round South. 7am-9.30pm ₹

Thrissur TIME FROM KOCHI: 2½ HRS

Meet a former royal capital

A bustling city of over 300,000 people, festival-loving Thrissur is an important piece of Kerala’s historical puzzle. It played a key role as a second capital for the Cochin royal family in the 16th century when the Portuguese landed, then changed hands between Kozhikode’s Zamorin rulers and Tipu Sultan before falling back under Kochi’s control in the late 18th century.

Dive into Thrissur’s backstory with a stroll around its low-key monuments, starting with the renowned Vadakkunathan Kshetram Temple, dedicated to Shiva, at the heart of the city. With roots in the 9th century, it’s one of Kerala’s oldest temples; non-Hindu visitors can admire the elaborately carved entry gates, though not enter the inner complex. Around 2km northeast, the mural-filled District Heritage Museum (closed Monday) occupies Kollangode Bhawan, a beautiful 1904 Indo-European building.

Other highlights include Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral (on the site of a 1585 church), neo-Gothic Basilica of Our Lady of Dolours (from 1925) and Marth Mariam Church (an 1814 creation for India’s Chaldean Syrian community).

A taste of traditional arts

For an inspiring morning fully immersed in Kerala’s myriad art forms, book ahead to visit respected century-old training centre Kerala Kalamandalam (closed April/May), 30km north of Thrissur in Cheruthuruthy, near the River Nila. After taking in the intricately built temple-theatre, you’ll see galleries of vibrant costumes, learn how performance make-up is applied and enjoy demonstrations of Kathakali (Kerala dance-drama), mohiniyattam (dance of the enchantress), Kootiattam (Sanskrit drama), classical Carnatic music and more.

Flavours of Kerala

If a deep-dive into the intricacies of Kerala’s delectable cuisine sounds tempting, join prize-winning food writer Nimi Sunilkumar – author of Lip Smacking Dishes of Kerala and 4 O’Clock Temptations of Kerala – for a hands-on cooking session at Nimi’s Lip Smacking Classes in Thrissur. Menus for the day change, depending on what is in season, usually involving four to five dishes to master. Get in touch in advance to confirm timings and location.

RIVER NILA

Gopinath Parayil is the founder of conservation-focused tour company The Blue Yonder (@the.blue.yonder).

For an experience that combines both culture and nature, I recommend exploring the River Nila area in the three districts of Thrissur, Palakkad and Malappuram. Vallachira is a village known for its Onam-related celebrations, while an arts-and-crafts trail along the River Nila could include a unique Kathakali accessories workshop in Vellinezhi.

The Vazhachal Forest Division is known for the mighty Athirappilly waterfalls and the biodiversity of the Chalakudy river, and there are some great rainforest treks here. And in Ponnani, where the River Nila joins the Arabian Sea, you can enjoy unique culinary experiences such as dining with local families and learning regional recipes.

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Kerala’s Backwaters

Venturing out through Kerala’s meandering network of backwaters counts among the region’s most magical experiences and there’s an array of ways in which to get immersed in all this natural beauty. An overnight trip aboard a houseboat (meals included) is the classic adventure, but there’s now a raft of excellent kayaking and canoe tours weaving through the waterways. Or hop on a local ferry to cruise between waterfront towns.

Exploring the backwaters if you like...

Active Adventures

Kayaking, paddle-boarding and punt-powered canoe trips with local guides are booming in popularity as a more sustainable way to roam around the backwaters than aboard a houseboat or other motorised boat. These small-group tours are an especially rewarding way to explore, opening up areas that are trickier to reach by large boat and offering a slow-travel experience on which you’re likely to meet local villagers, learn about regional industries (from coir-making to fishing), catch the sunrise or sunset, and dine at small restaurants or even family homes. Most places along Kerala’s coast, lakes and backwaters offer kayaking, canoeing and paddle-boarding trips. Munroe Island near Kollam is a scenic paddle hub, while Alleppey, Varkala, Kochi and Bekal all have great tours available too.

SARATH MAROLI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Dipping Into Local Life

Kerala’s ever-expanding network of public ferries, run by the State Water Transport Department (SWTD), provides a lifeline for local residents by linking backwater villages with hubs like Alleppey, Kollam, Kottayam and Kochi. Tickets typically cost just a few rupees and most schedules are available online (though it’s best to check locally for the most up-to-date details). Kochi’s public ferries and the under-development Kochi Water Metro offer a great introduction. Further afield, the Alleppey–Kottayam ferry (around 2½ hours) is a popular trip, while local ferries zip across Ashtamudi Lake from Kollam. Kerala’s less-touristed northern backwaters, around Valiyaparamba island between Kannur and Kasaragod, are accessible by local ferry too.

Houseboat Escapes

With careful planning, spending a night aboard a houseboat designed like a kettuvallam (rice barge) can be a highlight of any India adventure. Feeling worlds away from everything, a typical houseboat trip looks something like this: fiery sunsets over the backwaters, freshly cooked Kerala-style meals, steaming chai as the sun rises, glimpses of rare South Indian birds, seeing toddy-tapping and coir-making, and much more. Given the popularity of Kerala’s houseboats (especially in the Alleppey area), it can be disappointing to find so many other boats plying the same waterways, so it’s worth considering timings and location carefully. It’s also important to know that there are growing environmental concerns involved (see).

Kerala houseboat | IGOR PLOTNIKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HOW TO

When to go If possible, skip the busy peak season and domestic holidays like Onam, when backwaters can get overwhelmed with houseboats (particularly around Alleppey).

Book ahead While some travellers prefer to wait until reaching a hub, the most professional and responsible houseboats usually get booked up in advance, so it’s worth reserving ahead. Kayaking and punt-canoeing trips are easily booked on location.

Budget Houseboats costs vary wildly. A one-night trip from Alleppey on a two-person boat typically costs from around ₹8000.

Finding a houseboat Ideally, choose your houseboat based on a strong local recommendation (a friend, local contact or reputable guesthouse); most bookings can be done online or by phone.

Houseboat Practicalities

The classic Kerala houseboat trip is an overnight cruise from Alleppey, but there are countless options and variations. Houseboats (with drivers/captains) can be chartered through an almost overwhelming line-up of private operators in Kochi, Alleppey, Kollam, Kumarakom and, to a lesser extent, the Valiyaparamba backwaters area near Kannur and Bekal in northern Kerala.

The style and quality of boats varies hugely, from simple but well-maintained structures to palatial retreats, so it pays to do advance research by speaking with other travellers and local contacts. Reliable guesthouses and hotels are often a great starting point. Three meals a day cooked by an onboard chef are usually included in prices.

Alleppey has the biggest choice of houseboats in Kerala, with over 1000 floating around its waters. With its lively accommodation scene and social traveller atmosphere, this is also a great place for solo travellers to link up with others who might want to share houseboat costs and arrangements.

At the luxury end of the market, Spice Coast Cruises – run by the sustainability-driven CGH Earth hotels chain – operates smart houseboats in the Vembanad Lake area near Alleppey. For northern Kerala’s Valiyaparamba Backwaters, responsible ayurvedic retreat Neeleshwar Hermitage has its own beautiful houseboat, The Lotus.

Alappuzha (Alleppey)

BACKWATERS ADVENTURES | VILLAGE LIFE | HOUSEBOATS

Surrounded by a sprawling network of glinting waterways, 50km south of Kochi, Alappuzha (still mostly called Alleppey) is Kerala’s vibrant backwaters hub and a major coir producer.

The busy town centre revolves around a compact grid of canals set between a golden beach (where a highway flyover sadly now disrupts the setting) and Punnamada Lake, which spills into Kerala’s largest lake, Vembanad. Beyond its buzzing central canals, Alleppey morphs into a gorgeously green haven of meandering channels, palm-shaded villages, rustling paddy fields and thatched-roof kettuvallam (rice-barge houseboats). Jointly the region’s waterways stretch all the way to Kochi (north), Kottayam (east) and Kollam (south), drawing travellers from all over the world for backwaters adventures.

Alleppey boomed in the 18th century when it emerged as a trading port under the Travancore rulers, transporting pepper, tea and other upland products beyond Kerala’s shores. Houseboats first started carrying visitors across the waters in the 1990s, paving the way for Alleppey’s transformation into today’s backwaters capital.

GETTING AROUND

Alleppey is quite a walkable town with broad flat streets, though it’s fairly spread out and the main strips are busy. The Mullackal bazaar area, boat jetty and bus stand are all around 3.5km inland (east) from the beach, and accommodation is dotted all over the place (including along the beach and backwaters). A convenient way to get around is by scooter, which can be rented easily through local guesthouses or agencies including Nanni Tours & Travels for around ₹450 per day. Autorickshaws charge around ₹50 for quick hops around town. The train station is 4km southwest of the centre, with links across Kerala and beyond.

SIGHTS

1   Alappuzha Lighthouse

2   Alleppey Beach

3   RKK Memorial Museum

SLEEPING

4   Malayalam

5   Nanni Backpackers Hostel

6   Raheem Residency

7   Zostel

EATING

8   Borma

9   Cafe Catamaran

10   Cafe Paradiso

Chakara (see 6)

Coffee Time (see 5)

11   Halais

12   Harbour Restaurant

13   Royale Chimney

14   Thaff

TRANSPORT

15   Boat Jetty

16   Nanni Tours & Travels

TOP TIP

Overtourism and houseboat pollution are serious concerns for Alleppey, so it’s worth researching potential activities thoroughly and reading up about (and even booking) responsible local operators in advance. Kayaking and punt-powered canoe trips are increasingly popular alternatives to exploring the backwaters by houseboat or motorised boat.

Paddling Out

Kayak and canoe the backwaters

Picture this: the sun blazes peach-and-pink as it sinks behind a forest of slender coconut palms fringing a shimmering lake, with just the leisurely sound of a paddle swooping through the water for company. Few Kerala moments rival catching a sunset or sunrise from a kayak, paddleboard or punt-powered canoe out in the midst of the backwaters.

Whether you prefer to paddle your own kayak or relax on a canoe led by a knowledgeable river guide, a slow-paced jaunt offers a much more environmentally friendly way to explore the waterways around Alleppey than aboard a houseboat and will immerse you in more off-the-beaten-track creeks and canals that larger boats are unable to navigate. Visiting waterside villages, seeing coir-making and boat-building, learning about toddy-tapping, spotting birdlife and meeting local farmers and fishers are among the highlights.

Tours typically last anywhere between three hours and a full day (lunch included), and are easily booked through Alleppey-based operators such as reliable Nanni Tours & Travels, who offer private and small-group trips mostly in the Kuttanad area just south of Alleppey. Moksha Stories also runs kayaking and canoe tours from Alleppey.

Boat jetty | DANIEL_GAUTHIER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Boating Alleppey’s Backwaters

The classic houseboat adventure

Chartering a houseboat for a night or two and floating past green paddy fields, lush palm forests, Chinese fishing nets and remote villages can be one of Kerala’s (and indeed India’s) most mesmerising experiences. Beautifully designed with wooden panels, thatched roofs and coconut-fibre rope, the kettuvallam (rice barge) has been used in this region since 3000 BCE to transport grain, spices and coconuts. It wasn’t until the 1990s that tourism entered the picture, offering a new lease of life for these traditional boats, which had started to fade out as road links ramped up across the state. In recent years, however, environmental concerns have grown around Kerala’s houseboat industry, particularly in busy Alleppey where over 1000 houseboats now cruise the waters.

Alleppey’s houseboats offer diverse levels of comfort, style, budget and sustainability. For the most professional and responsible operations, book ahead.

Cruise to Kottayam

Catch a local ferry

If you’re keen to get the local-life experience of vast Vembanad Lake, take advantage of State Water Transport Department (SWTD) ferries departing from Alleppey’s boat jetty, 3km east of the beach. At just a few rupees per trip (buy tickets on board), ferries ply the waters between Alleppey and Kottayam six times daily between 7.15am and 5.15pm. Trundling across Vembanad Lake you’ll catch the varied landscapes slipping by before arriving after 2½ hours in spice-trading Kottayam, from where there are handy onwards connections to Kerala’s Western Ghats as well as Kochi, Kumarakom and beyond. A network of solar-powered public ferries is slowly being developed in the Alleppey area too; check locally for updates on routes and openings.

BACKWATERS: ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

With around 2000 houseboats thought to now be roaming Kerala’s waterways (some unlicensed), the famous backwaters are facing increasing contamination from spilled fuel, plastic, food, noise and even human waste.

This translates into water shortages, potential health hazards for local villagers, and declining bird and fish populations.

It isn’t all bad news though: bio-toilets are now mandatory for houseboats, and some owners are bringing in green initiatives like solar panels, while plans for solar-powered ferries are gaining traction. India’s first solar-powered ferry has been cruising across Vembanad Lake from Vaikom to Thavanakkadav since 2017.

HOUSEBOAT PRACTICALITIES

For the lowdown on Kerala’s houseboat scene – from booking tips to rewarding alternative regions beyond Alleppey – check out.

A Backwaters Escape

Magical waterfront stays

From charming little homestays to luxe boutique-design retreats, the waterways and lakes around Alleppey are dotted with serenely peaceful places to stay. A night (or a few) at one of them puts you right on the doorstep of all the main activities travellers enjoy aboard houseboats, such as village walks and sunrise kayaking trips.

Long-running, community-driven Greenpalm Homes offers the chance to stay with local families in a collection of homestays on a backwater island surrounded by rice paddies, around 12km southeast of Alleppey. For a luxury escape, retreat to heritage-style Purity, 16km north of Alleppey on Vembanad Lake; vibrant contemporary design combines with Indian antiques, Kerala-style meals, boat trips, ayurveda and yoga.

SNAKE-BOAT RACES

If you’re anywhere near Alleppey in August, it’s impossible to miss the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, Kerala’s most famous regatta. Beautifully carved snake boats propelled by up to 100 rowers battle it out on Punnamada Lake, while thousands of spectators converge to cheer and soak up the scene, many of them on houseboats.

The race has been held almost every year since 1954 on the second Saturday in August. It is said to have evolved from water-based battles in the region over 400 years ago. Now there’s an almost sports-like fervour, with months of training for rowers and fans piling into town. Kollam’s President’s Trophy Boat Race (November) and Aranmula Boat Race (during Onam in the Kottayam region) are also big.

BEACHES NEAR ALLEPPEY

While Alleppey’s town beach feels a bit rundown and is unfortunately now overlooked by a busy flyover, there are some lovely sandy strands nearby at Kattoor and Marari, 10km and 14km north of town respectively.

EATING IN ALLEPPEY: OUR PICKS

Halais: Step through a sweet shop to this famed biryani spot; also has Arabian and Yemeni dishes. noon-10pm ₹₹

Borma: A lovely garden cafe near the boat jetty for international-style breakfasts, wraps, coffee and cakes. 9.30am-10pm Wed-Mon ₹₹

Cafe Catamaran: This breezy beachfront cafe has traveller dishes (momos, noodles, seafood), juices and live music. 8.30am-11pm ₹₹

Chakara: Elegant South Indian-European restaurant across from the beach in the Raheem Residency. 7.30-10am, 12.30-3pm & 7-10pm ₹₹₹

Coffee Time: Excellent coffee, breakfasts and seafood at a welcoming cafe attached to Nanni Backpackers Hostel. 7.30am-8.30pm ₹

Cafe Paradiso: Tiny canal-side coffee hangout for espresso and simple breakfasts, near the bazaar and boat jetty. 8.30am-7pm ₹

Thaff:On the north canal near the boat jetty, Thaff is a long-running local haunt for Kerala thalis, spiced biryanis and local fish dishes. 11am-11pm ₹

Royale Chimney: Biryanis, fish curries, thalis and other treats keep this central hotel restaurant and bar busy. 7am-10pm ₹₹

ALLEPPEY ON FOOT

A stroll along Alleppey’s small central canal grid provides a taste of its important maritime-trading history, with hand-painted street murals sprinkled around and a string of ancient buildings now restored (or partly so) by the ongoing Alappuzha Heritage Project. This 3.5km route is doable by cycling too, or take an auto-rickshaw part of the way to speed things up.

A grand building fronted by Greco-Roman columns, the 1 RKK Memorial Museum (closed Monday) houses an astonishing collection of South Indian antiques, porcelain, art and furniture amassed by wealthy local businessman Revi Karuna Karan and family. From here head 400m south, then turn left (east) along the north side of Alleppey’s 2 South Canal, home to several coir-industry warehouses. Around 300m east along the canal is the renovated 3 New Model Coir Society building, which at the time of writing was being transformed into a museum devoted to Alleppey’s coir-making heritage. Next door lies the distinctive 4 Aspinwall & Co warehouse, another trade-world landmark. Turn right (south) across Kothuvalchavadi Bridge and right again (west) on CCSB Rd for 250m to reach 5 Halais, where biryanis and dosas await for anyone who fancies a break.

Follow the canal 900m west and hop across to the north side again to reach Gujarati St and its 6 Jain Temple, built in white marble and stone. It’s another 900m west to the famous candy-striped 7 Alappuzha Lighthouse (closed Monday), which dates from 1862 and has impressive wraparound views from the top of its spiralling teak-wood staircase. Wander 400m west then north to reach 8 Harbour Restaurant, for cold beers and snacks just over the road from 9 Alleppey Beach (which now has a wheelchair-accessible ramp).

Beyond Alappuzha (Alleppey)

Classic Kerala: gold-tinged beaches and low-key fishing villages give way to palm-sprinkled lakes, nature reserves, palaces and islands reachable only by boat.

With a string of powdery beaches and fishing villages, the evocative coast just north of Alleppey makes a refreshing change of scene from the backwaters. Marari, 14km north of Alleppey, is growing into one of Kerala’s most-loved beach escapes, but still retains its go-slow charm and natural beauty.

Heading inland unveils a green-clad agricultural region centred on Kottayam, a lively city of 350,000 people and the heart of Kerala’s rubber and spice trades. With plenty of links between coastal Kerala and the Western Ghats, it’s a major transport centre, but also conceals intriguing monuments. Over on the shores of sprawling Vembanad Lake, 15km west of Kottayam, Kumarakom village borders a bird-rich nature reserve and hosts high-end waterfront resorts.

Places

Marari

Kumarakom

Kottayam

Kayamkulam

GETTING AROUND

With its quiet lanes and broad beach, the Marari area is best explored on foot or by bike. Taxis from Alleppey to Marari cost around ₹500, and plenty of Cherthala-bound buses heading north from Alleppey stop near Marari.

Kottayam has good train and bus links to destinations across Kerala, plus ferries to/from Alleppey (2½ hours). Kumarakom is easily reached by taxi or bus (30 minutes) from Kottayam and is a great place to explore by kayak or bike.

Marari TIME FROM ALAPPUZHA: 15 MINS /20 MINS

Slow down to beach mode

Strolling down tranquil sandy lanes to the sprawling expanses of honey-gold, kilometres-long Marari Beach instantly soothes the soul, whether you fancy an easy-breezy day trip from Alleppey or staying a few days at one of the cheerful homestays or luxury seafront resorts. Out on the sand first thing in the morning, you’ll see colourful fishing boats in action, while at sunset locals and visitors converge along the beach, which has a few lazy cafes. Around 2km inland from central Marari Beach, the town’s Mahadeva Temple is said to date back around 700 years.

For something even more low-key, head a few kilometres south from Marari to Kattoor Beach, which has a fishing-village feel and is also known as Secret Beach for its often-empty golden sands. Yogis can join drop-in classes here at Secret Beach Yoga Homestay; owner Vimal also runs kalarippayat sessions.

Kumarakom TIME FROM ALAPPUZHA: 45 MINS

Wildlife-spotting at Kumarakom

Around 150 species of feathered creatures are known to gather at the evocative Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary. This 5-hectare nature reserve set on a former rubber plantation on Vembanad Lake, a 30km drive northeast of Alleppey, provides a refuge for local birds such as pond herons, egrets, little cormorants, kingfishers and Indian shags; as well as migratory species (October to February) including ospreys, garganey teals, marsh harriers, Siberian cranes and steppey eagles. Time it right and a wander here – either independently along a marked path or by guided walking tour – is a birdwatching treat. First thing in the morning is usually best for bird-spotting.

Kottayam TIME FROM ALAPPUZHA: 2½ HRS /1 HR

Explore inland temples and churches

Beyond Kottayam’s busy transport-hub centre, its northwest suburbs and surrounding villages reveal a collection of ancient sights that dive deep into Kerala’s multicultural soul. A self-guided route might begin 2km northwest of town at the sparkling-white St Mary’s Syrian Knanaya Church (also called Valiyapally), overlooking the Meenachil River. The building dates for 1588, though it was originally founded by Syrian Knanaya Christians in 1550. The highlights are the two granite-carved crosses inscribed with Pahalavi-language writing from the 7th century or earlier.

Neighbouring St Mary’s Orthodox Church (or Cheriapally) is a spectacular blend of European-style baroque architecture with Kerala temple design; it was constructed by the Portuguese in 1579 and is known for its vegetable-dye altar paintings.

More beautiful murals await at the Hindu Mahadeva Temple in Ettumanur, 12km north of Kottayam. Tthe oldest inscriptions go back to 1542, though this Shiva temple is thought to date in part from the 12th century.

Kayamkulam TIME FROM ALAPPUZHA: 50 MINS /1 HR

A jewel of royal architecture

Around 48km south of Alleppey, the carefully restored Krishnapuram Palace Museum (closed Monday) ranks among Kerala’s most impressive royal buildings. Rivalled only by Padmanabhapuram Palace in the south (now over the border in Tamil Nadu), it dates mostly from the mid-18th century and was once a home for the Travancore royal family. Wandering through the lush palace gardens and courtyards reveals a feast of gabled red-tile roofing, antique furniture and outward-curving balconies. But the undisputed highlight is a vibrantly painted 3m-tall mural of the Gajendra Moksha (the liberation of Gajendra, chief of the elephants), a legend from the Bhagavata Puraṇa.

THE GOD OF SMALL THINGS

The small village of Aymanam, 5km northwest of Kottayam near the Meenachil River, is famously where Booker Prize–winning Indian author Arundhati Roy spent her childhood and set her internationally acclaimed 1997 debut novel The God of Small Things.

The novel depicts mid-20th-century life (and its challenges) here through the story of a Syrian-Christian family, against a backdrop of India’s caste system and the enduring effects of British colonialism.

With a blossoming rural-tourism scene and a few charming places to stay, Aymanam makes a rewarding base for exploring the Kumarakom/Kottayam area, with rich birdwatching, local temples, rippling paddy fields and more on the doorstep.

Munnar

MOUNTAIN BEAUTY | TEA STORY | WILDLIFE RESERVES

Strategically located 1524m-high at the meeting point of three rivers, just 135km inland from Kochi, Munnar sits at the heart of the largest tea-producing region in South India. The cool and rugged mountain landscapes here evoke everything that makes Kerala’s Western Ghats so magical, often cloaked in patches of swirling mist between which loom some of southern India’s tallest peaks.

Once positioned on an ancient trading route linking central Kerala with Madurai, this area was developed as a tea-growing hub from the 1880s onwards during the British colonial period, with Munnar itself established in 1901. Now centred on a bazaar that is a hive of activity, modern-day Munnar is a busy working hill town, where the local tea and cardamom industries rub shoulders with domestic and international tourism. While the tea-plantation scenery remains one of Munnar’s main attractions, there are ongoing efforts to rewild parts of this naturally spectacular region to something more like its pre-colonial landscape. Munnar’s beauty is all about escaping into the surrounding hills, whether on a trek or on a viewpoint tour. The area’s best food is served at its relaxed homestays, some of which offer wonderful cooking classes.

GETTING AROUND

Munnar’s flat town centre is easily walkable, but much of the area’s accommodation is scattered across the surrounding countryside. Autorickshaws, taxis, jeeps and local buses will get you there. Munnar’s main bus station (with services across Kerala and beyond) is at the south end of town.

Unless you’re hiking, to visit the viewpoints and sights it’s best to take a tour by jeep or taxi, which charge around ₹1500 for half-day trips. Gokulam Bike Hire rents scooters and motorbikes. Eravikulam National Park and Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary are easily day-trip-able (often together) using buses heading north along SH17 or taxis/jeeps from Munnar (₹3000 for a day trip).

SIGHTS

1   Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary

2   CSI Christ Church

3   Eravikulam National Park

4   Kundala Valley Light Railway Station

5   Lockhart Tea Factory

6   Munnar Juma Masjid

7   Subramanya Swami Temple

8   Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary

ACTIVITIES

9   Munnar Trekking

SLEEPING

10   Green Valley Vista

11   Rosegardens

12   Windermere Estate

EATING

13   Ali Baba & 41 Dishes

14   Bazaar Food Stalls

15   Saravana Bhavan

16   Sree Mahaveer Bhojanalaya

INFORMATION

17   DTPC Tourist Office

TRANSPORT

18   Gokulam Bike Hire

19   KSRTC Bus Station

All About Tea

Dive into Munnar’s tea-growing history

Two key ingredients – tea and cardamom – put Munnar on the modern-day world map. Tea-planting kicked off here from the 1880s onwards under British colonial rule and is still one of the region’s key industries, with around 250 working plantations sprinkled around the hills, today mostly owned by Tata, Harrisons Malayalam Ltd and the local cooperative Kannan Devan Hills Plantation Company (KDHP). Before all this, subsistent Adivasi communities lived in the region, which was part of the princely state of Travancore.

Simply wandering a little outside the town centre instantly immerses you in a tea-covered landscape blazing a million shades of green. Grown at altitudes of around 1400m to 2400m, tea here has a crisp, aromatic edge thanks to the misty climate and elevated geography, with black, white and green teas all grown locally.

Just 10km southeast of Munnar, 1879-founded Lockhart Tea Factory is one of Kerala’s oldest estates; it started life growing cinchona, before moving on to coffee and eventually tea. Still a working tea factory owned by Harrisons Malayalam Ltd, it offers guided tours of its facilities on which you’ll learn all about how tea is picked, processed and exported today. For the full tea-world experience, several atmospheric accommodation choices in the Munnar area now offer the chance to stay overnight on a tea estate, including CGH Earth Lockhart, a collaboration between the sustainability-focused hotel chain CGH Earth and an original-period three-room bungalow at the Lockhart Tea Estate. Also lovely is Windermere Estate, set on a century-old cardamom plantation 4km southeast of Munnar, surrounded by cascading tea- and coffee-growing terraces.

Mountain Treks

Munnar at its finest

Breathe deeply: beyond Munnar’s hectic town centre, the air is crisp with tea bushes, pine trees and mountain freshness. And the best way to escape into these hills is on foot, taking in misty tea plantations, rugged outcrops and superb viewpoints across the Western Ghats. Routes usually range from gentle walks past tea estates to full-day expeditions with mountain trekking. On any trek, the sight of glinting green tea plantations set against some of South India’s tallest peaks is nothing short of mesmerising. Reputable Munnar Trekking offers expert-led treks, including a 6km early-morning walk from Munnar to catch the sunrise at 2000m high (weather-permitting).

The area around Top Station – which sits 32km northeast of Munnar at 1880m – is popular for its dramatic views (when not cloaked in mist), though whether it’s open for trekking or not depends on current Forest Department regulations (ask locally). At the time of writing, great guided walks were available in the nearby Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary, but treks at also-popular Eravikulam National Park were closed.

Two other rewarding routes in the Munnar region are the ascent of Meesappulimala (2650m), Kerala’s second-highest peak on the remote Kerala–Tamil Nadu border, and Chokramudi (2195m high). For Meesappulimala, guided treks of around 10km start from an official Forest Department base camp (20km west of Munnar) and involve prebooking through Munnar’s KFDC office, with the option of overnight accommodation in tents or rustic rooms. Chokramudi opens up spectacular views of Idukki Dam and surrounding peaks on a 6km return hike starting from Lockhart Gap (though you can also begin from Munnar), and may require a guide too.

TREKKING PRACTICALITIES

Organising a trek in Munnar can be a little fiddly, but once you’re out in the serene green hills walking here is a joy. The Forest Department dictates which areas are officially open for trekking, with regulations changing roughly yearly, and some routes may require a Forest Department guide. There are plenty of walks to enjoy under your own steam, though it’s important to keep in mind that tea plantations are private property.

For updates on what’s open, ask locally (eg at your guesthouse or Munnar’s DTPC Tourist Office) or head out with a professional trekking company, such as Munnar Trekking or Green Valley Vista.

Flavours of Munnar’s Kitchens

Cook up a storm

With all its fresh spices and fragrant cardamom crops, Munnar is a rewarding place to learn about local recipes and uncover the secrets of Kerala’s richly diverse cuisine. At Rosegardens, one of the area’s loveliest and most responsible homestays, botanist Tomy Joseph and his family welcome visitors for four-hour cooking experiences that start with tours of their organic gardens and spice plantations, which include coffee, pepper, cardamom and pineapple. Then it’s a hands-on cooking class and preparing a family-style meal bursting with Kerala flavours.

Rare Wildlife & Protected Hills

ExplorEravikulam National Park

The stocky Nilgiri tahr is one of the Western Ghats’ signature species, but there are now thought to be only around 3100 of these endangered mountain goats remaining, spread across Kerala and Tamil Nadu. The largest single population (around 800) inhabits the rolling expanses of the protected 97-sq-km Eravikulam National Park (closed February/March), just 11km north of Munnar and easily visitable on a day trip.

While trekking at Eravikulam wasn’t permitted at the time of writing (check locally for updates), park-operated buses travel to an elevated drop-off point with a good chance of spotting Nilgiri tahr among the shola (virgin forest) and grasslands. And the mountain scenery – which includes 2695m-tall Anamudi, South India’s highest peak – is a treat. Eravikulam is also a hotspot for neelakurinji, a local plant that bursts into bright-purple bloom just once every 12 years (next expected in 2030). Visit Eravikulam midweek, ideally early in the day, when it’s slightly scene and prebook tickets if possible.

Munnar Stroll

The hill station’s heart

The colourful bazaar at the north end of town is bursting with stalls selling everything from aromatic spices to savoury fried snacks. Munnar’s Juma Masjid (main mosque) and Subramanya Swami Temple sit just north of here. Heading south along the main SH17 road, you’ll reach a pale-yellow 20th-century Tata building that was once Munnar’s train station during the colonial period, on the Kundala Valley Light Railway.

Towards the south end of town rises the neo-Gothic CSI Christ Church, built in 1911, where many colonial-era tea planters were laid to rest.

A LOCAL’S MUNNAR GUIDE

Dileep Tomy, who runs Rosegardens Tours (rosegardenstours.com).

Letchmi Hills Go trekking here to enjoy Munnar’s beauty and, if lucky, spot wild elephants. Treks can take from three hours to a whole day.

Top Station On a 32km scenic drive to this viewpoint you’ll cross two dams (Mattupetty and Kundaly), wonderful tea plantations and the spectacular Yellapatty vegetable plantation.

Marayoor Around 40km from Munnar, this area is famous for its sandalwood forests and jaggery production. Another 15km on you reach the starting point for a guided 1½-hour trek to beautiful Thoovanam Waterfall in Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary .

Srishti Trust Charitable project producing handmade papers and silk-dyed fabrics.

EATING IN MUNNAR: OUR PICKS

Saravana Bhavan: South India’s loved vegetarian chain does dosa, vada, idli, uttapam, filter coffee and more, next to the bazaar. 7am-9.30pm ₹

Ali Baba & 41 Dishes: Popular halal restaurant for Indian/international plates; spicy noodles, paneer tikka and thalis. 11am-10.30pm ₹₹

Sree Mahaveer Bhojanalaya: All kinds of pure-veg thalis and other meat-free dishes, 500m east of the bazaar. 7am-10pm ₹₹

Bazaar: Simple food stalls serving deep-fried snacks and other treats in Munnar’s bazaar area burst into action every morning and evening. hours vary ₹

Beyond Munnar

Wildlife-wandered nature reserves, dramatic Western Ghats scenery and soulful riverside escapes await in every direction.

The mountainous area surrounding Munnar is thick with wildlife sanctuaries and known for its rich biodiversity, much of it located within the UNESCO-listed Western Ghats and with wildlife corridors spilling over into neighbouring Tamil Nadu. After soaking up Munnar’s tea-dominated landscapes, head off into the wilder protected hills, where treks and safaris offer nature lovers the chance to spot some of South India’s emblematic wildlife. Several nature reserves here – including Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary and Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary – are easily visited on day trips from Munnar or en route to or from the hill station. Others offer complete immersion in wonderfully remote pockets of the Ghats that rewards adventurous travellers keen to explore off the beaten track.

Places

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary

Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary

Parambikulam Tiger Reserve

GETTING AROUND

Buses heading north into Tamil Nadu from Munnar along SH17 stop at Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary; return taxis/jeeps from Munnar charge around ₹3000 for a day trip, often with other stops. Buses running between Ernakulam (Kochi) and Munnar stop in Kothamangalam, near Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary.

Parambikulam Tiger Reserve is a little trickier to reach: access is by bus or taxi from Pollachi in Tamil Nadu (115km north of Munnar) or from Kerala’s Palakkad area, west of Thrissur.

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary TIME FROM MUNNAR: 90MIN BY /

Walk through protected forests

Extending around the Pambar River, roughly 50km northeast of Munnar, Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary is a lushly forested 90-sq-km expanse favoured for its official treks, usually led by Adivasi guides from local communities. Among its grasslands, scrub jungle and shola – which hug the Kerala–Tamil Nadu border near the remote Anamalai Tiger Reserve – roam deer, gaur, langurs, giant grizzled squirrels, wild elephants and endangered Nilgiri tahr, as well much-harder-to-spot tigers and leopards.

Starting from official checkpoints on the SH17 road, guided treks lead through the forest to the rushing Thoovanam Waterfalls (around 4km one way, 1½ hours), or to a series of caves known for their prehistoric red-ochre etchings. Chinnar is easily visited on a full-day trip from Munnar, but there is also simple log-house-style Forest Department accommodation available (with meals included). Book ahead if you’re keen to stay out in the wild overnight, and confirm trekking practicalities locally before making the journey out. November to March are the best months for spotting local wildlife.

Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary TIME FROM MUNNAR: 2HR

See rare birdlife

Easy to breeze right past in the rush from Kochi to Munnar, but wonderfully rewarding for those who make the stop, Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary protects around 300 species of feathered creatures. Curled into the foothills of Kerala’s Western Ghats, 12km northwest of Kothamangalam town, this peaceful low-lying nature reserve sprawls across 25 sq km surrounding the Periyar River as well as glinting marshes and lagoons, enveloping a distinct and richly biodiverse landscape that is home to many rare and endemic species.

Kingfishers, Malabar hornbills, grey drongos, Sri Lankan frogmouths, darters, warblers, white-bellied woodpeckers, cuckoos, Malabar parakeets and black baza count among the many species that flit between the forests and waterscapes here in Kerala’s first bird sanctuary. It has been protected since 1983 thanks to the early efforts of renowned Indian ornithologist Dr Salim Ali, who first visited the area in the 1930s.

Paddling out on the Periyar River by kayak or canoe is a great way to spot local birdlife, as are expert-guided birdwatching walks and boat trips. All of these can be easily organised through local guesthouses, many of which are charming, laid-back places where waking up in serene nature is a huge part of the appeal. The park reception office also arranges guided walks and river boating. For the best chances of spotting your favourite fluttering species, head out first thing in the morning. Migratory birds arrive from around November to February.

Parambikulam Tiger Reserve TIME FROM MUNNAR: 4HR

Wildlife-spotting off the beaten track

South India’s most popular nature reserves can get busy, but for a more off-the-beaten-track experience head to teak-forested Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, which sits surrounded by other sanctuaries around 130km north of Munnar by road. Gaur, chital, sambar, sloths, elephants, leopards and around 25 tigers live in this 644-sq-km space.

Activities on offer (book ahead if possible) include three-hour jeep safaris travelling 50km through the reserve, and guided treks with Adivasi guides, which range from around 6km (half a day) to 12km (a full-day trip). There are also full-day packages that combine walks with bamboo-rafting on the Parambikulam Reservoir, while overnight accommodation is provided in treehouses, canvas tents and a colonial-era bungalow. The best time to visit is October to March/April.

IDUKKI DISTRICT

Carved through by the Periyar and Pamba Rivers, Idukki is both Kerala’s largest district and one of its least densely populated areas. Home to many of the state’s most popular Western Ghats attractions, it stretches along the border with Tamil Nadu, taking in the Munnar region, Kerala’s highest peaks and a string of interconnected wildlife sanctuaries. The spice-growing district is also known for producing much of Kerala’s power through its hydroelectric stations, with many projects powered by the enormous Idukki Dam, which is surrounded by the 77-sq-km Idukki Wildlife Sanctuary.

The area has been inhabited since prehistoric times (as recovered cave art and dolmens show) and still has a strong Adivasi population; it became part of the Kingdom of Travancore in the 18th century.

Periyar Tiger Reserve

PROTECTED WILDLIFE | MOUNTAIN LANDSCAPES | SPICES AND TEA

Hidden among the southern reaches of the famously biodiverse UNESCO-listed Western Ghats, Periyar Tiger Reserve is South India’s most popular protected space and holds a special place in the hearts of many Keralites. Electric-green tea plantations sprawl across the surrounding hillsides, while lofty peaks rise above a dense, untrammelled forest.

Centred on a 26-sq-km artificial lake from the late 19th century, the 777-sq-km Periyar Tiger Reserve is a serenely beautiful place, where even just being out among the lush, wild landscapes stirs the soul. It is Kerala’s first tiger reserve, declared in 1978, though already a protected sanctuary since 1934. Until the late 19th century when British colonisers arrived, this area was inhabited solely by Adivasi communities. Today the park is known for its pioneering ecotourism programmes. Around 2000 elephants and 40 elusive tigers wander the forests here, along with langurs, wild boar, giant squirrels, sambar, bison, otters and more.

Kumily, the park’s lively access town, sits on the Kerala–Tamil Nadu border, with park facilities at its south end, which is known as Thekkady.

GETTING AROUND

Kumily is a compact town easily explored on foot. From the Kumily bus stand and bazaar area, it’s just 600m to Bypass Rd where most accommodation is clustered.

The main Periyar Tiger Reserve entrance is 1.5km south of Kumily’s bus stand; from here shuttle buses run a further 3km south to Periyar Lake (you may also be able to walk along, depending on current regulations).

There are plenty of autorickshaws for short hops, or hire a bike from your guesthouse. From the bus stand, buses head out across Kerala; there’s a separate stop for Tamil Nadu buses, just north of the main bus stand.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Periyar Tiger Reserve

SIGHTS

2   Abraham’s Spice Garden

3   Philip’s Natural Honey

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

4   eriyar Lake Cruise

SLEEPING

5   Chrissie’s Hotel

6   Claus Garden

7   Green View

EATING

Chrissie’s Cafe (see 5)

8   Ebony’s Cafe

9   Spice Village

10   Sree Krishna

ENTERTAINMENT

11   Kadathanadan Kalari & Navarasa Kathakali Centre

12   Mudra Cultural Centre

INFORMATION

13   Ecotourism Centre

TRANSPORT

14   Kumily Bus Stand

15   Park Shuttle Bus Stop

16   Tamil Nadu Bus Stop

Wild Walks

Periyar Tiger Reserve on foot

Among the key things that make the 925-sq-km Periyar Tiger Reserve such an exciting natural space to explore are its pioneering trekking opportunities, on which you’ll travel through the reserve itself on routes led by mostly Adivasi guides. Options range from two-hour wildlife-spotting hikes to adventurous overnight itineraries with forest camping, always in small groups. Whichever trail you pick, simply being out in the raw wild with bird calls echoing through the forest canopy and the possibility of glimpsing rare wildlife around every corner feels truly special. And while wildlife sightings can never be guaranteed, you’re highly likely to at least spot a rich variety of birds and deer, and very possibly Nilgiri langurs, giant squirrels or some tiger pugmarks.

The park’s signature hike is the Periyar Tiger Trail, led by retrained former poachers now working as guides to protect this beautiful place; with options to join for either one night/two days or two nights/three days, it’s a challenging route covering 20km to 30km, with overnight accommodation at tented campsites. Also thrilling are the full-day Border Hikes, which open up spectacular mountain views from between 900m and .1300m altitude, and.tackle around 15km of walking on the northern edges of the park.

But even the shorter Green Walk and Natural Walk routes (around 2½ hours) are an adventure, immersing you in the dense forest on a 5km trail. After-dark Jungle Scout sessions are popular too, offering visitors the chance to join nighttime patrols for around three hours along the fringes of the reserve.

KERALA’S STATE BIRD

A thrill to see (and hear) in flight, the Great Indian Hornbill is known for its distinctive yellow bill and the astonishing whooshing sound made by its wing beats as it soars through the sky.

Some of the best places to spot them in Kerala are Periyar Tiger Reserve, Nelliyampathy in Palakkad (northeast from Thrissur) and Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary.

Adventures on the Water

Boating, rafting and wildlife-watching

At the heart of Periyar Tiger Reserve lies the glinting Periyar Lake, a 25-sq-km human-made expanse created in 1895 when the British built the Mullaperiyar Dam. The 1½-hour boat cruises that tour the lake are the park’s most popular and family-friendly activity, with guides and commentary provided. Expect to spot birds flitting by or resting on tree trunks; bison, deer, otters or even elephants are sometimes seen on the lake’s shores too, though the experience is really more of a scenic cruise than a wildlife-spotting activity. Book well ahead as tickets sell out; for the best chances of sighting wild creatures, go for the earliest or latest boat trip of the day.

Or how about heading out on a bamboo raft across the water? Half- and full-day guided rafting expeditions of up to 15 people start with a hike through the forest, before you hop on a punted bamboo raft to glide across Periyar Lake. Half-day options involve an hour or so exploring by raft, while the full-day trip means three hours out on the water, offering a more in-depth experience than the busier boat cruise.

PERIYAR PRACTICALITIES

The best time to spot wildlife is December to April, especially March/April when animals gather at watering holes. Early morning and late afternoon are often best. Book Periyar activities as far ahead as possible, particularly for the peak November-to-March season. Bookings are avail-able through the official website (periyartigerreserve.org), though foreign cards may not work.

Periyar guest-houses can often help with reservations and there may be slots available at shorter notice through the Forest Department’s Ecotourism Centre in Thekkady or for boat cruises at the boating counter at Kumily’s shuttle-bus car park. Many activities require at least two people; solo travellers can sometimes join existing groups or pay the minimum two-person fee. Most hikes are off-limits to under 12s. For safety, armed guards accompany most trekking groups.

EATING IN KUMILY: OUR PICKS

Chrissie’s Cafe: Popular rooftop-terrace cafe serving great coffee, buffet breakfasts, wraps, biryani, pasta and water refills. 8am-8.30pm ₹₹

Sree Krishna: Fave in Kumily’s bazaar for dosa, vada and all kinds of lunchtime thalis; stalls line KK Rd outside. 8am-10.30pm ₹

Spice Village: This smart CGH Earth-owned resort has buffets at Tamarind, daily changing menus at 50 Mile and a cocktail bar. hours vary ₹₹₹

Ebony’s Cafe: Upstairs courtyard restaurant that does international breakfasts, simple pastas and varied Indian dishes. 8am-10pm ₹₹

Periyar’s Tea Story

From leaf to cup

The Periyar area’s unique Western Ghats geography and warm, humid climate make it prime tea-growing land. So it is no surprise that this is one of South India’s earliest established tea regions, developed under British rule from the late 19th century. Today, this lush region ranks among Kerala’s key tea producers (along with Munnar and, to a lesser extent, Wayanad), with emerald-green plantations carpeting the hillsides at between 750m and 1350m above sea level, particularly around Vandiperiyar, 14km southwest of Kumily.

At the well-established Connemara Tea Factory, just outside Vandiperiyar, excellent one-hour guided tours offer a glimpse of the undulating plantations and an intriguing introduction to the intricate in-factory process of withering, rolling, oxidation and drying, before ending with a small tasting of the estate’s brews. Connemara has been going strong since 1945 (though tea has been made and exported on this site from the early 20th century) and today employs around 80 tea-pickers (all women) and 30 other workers, producing black, green and white tea as well as coffee.

Egret, Periyar Tiger Reserve | PRANAV PANDYA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

World of Spices

Learn at local spice farms

If you’ve ever wondered where all those delectable spices used in Kerala cuisine come from, it’s mostly the lush hills of the Western Ghats, and the Periyar area is a major producer. Kerala has been growing spices for thousands of years and exporting them through its coastal ports, attracting traders from across the globe, but it all starts here.

Abraham’s Spice Garden, 3km west of Kumily, is a long-running family-owned spice farm with 30 acres of organic gardens, growing everything from cardamom to over 20 varieties of banana. On an informal one-hour tour, owner Justin Abraham and family will show you around some of their crops (the earliest were planted in the 1950s), sharing stories about cardamom harvesting, the regions’s many orchids, spices loved in Kerala cooking (such as tamarind and turmeric), and countless local herbs and plants with medicinal or ayurvedic uses. Also open for casual visits is Philip’s Natural Honey, a small family-run bee farm that has been producing honey for over four decades, 3.5km northwest of Kumily.

Kumily Arts

An evening of Kerala tradition

In the heart of Kumily, a handful of established cultural centres keep the traditional dance-drama of Kathakali and the centuries-old martial art of kalarippayat thriving. While performances are aimed at tourist audiences, they also play an important role in ensuring the survival of these ancient arts and experienced performers provide highly entertaining shows. Kadathanadan Kalari & Navarasa Kathakali Centre stages evening performances of Kathakali (make-up sessions included) and fast-paced kalarippayat. Both are also performed at nearby Mudra Cultural Centre, which also showcases mohiniyattam, Kerala’s elegant classical ‘dance of the enchantress’.

SABARIMALA

Around 100km south from Kumily by road lies one of the world’s busiest pilgrim destinations, the Ayyappan Temple at Sabarimala, believed to draw 40 million to 60 million Hindu devotees each year.

Dedicated to the celibate god Ayyappan, Sabarimala has traditionally not permitted women of ‘menstruating age’ to enter the temple; widespread protests erupted when India’s Supreme Court overturned this ban in 2018 and the ruling remains controversial.

On the way to Sabarimala, many Hindu pilgrims – who dress in black for the journey – also visit the enormous Vavar Mosque at Erumeli (50km from Sabarimala), a centuries-old place of worship dedicated to Vavar, a Muslim friend of Sabarimala’s god Ayyappan. According to legend, Vavar helped Ayyappan defeat the demon Mahishi at Erumeli.

Varkala

SURF SCENE | BEAUTIFUL BEACHES | TEMPLE TOWN

Around 50km northwest of Kerala’s capital Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), Varkala centres on a string of rust-coloured laterite cliffs that tower 15m high above powdery gold-black beaches washed by some of South India’s finest surf. The natural setting is spectacular, so it is no surprise that this laid-back beach town has morphed into one of Kerala’s most-loved destinations. But Varkala is also an important Hindu pilgrimage town, home to the centuries-old Janardhana Temple, and Varkala Town (3km east/inland from the beaches) has its own lively buzz.

Varkala has long been Kerala’s go-to backpacker beach spot, and while it still retains its easygoing soul, in recent years things have smartened up a little with boutique-style guesthouses arriving and a fun mix of families, friends, couples and solo travellers now mingling here. The North Cliff can get busy, but it’s still easy to escape to quieter pockets of beachfront beauty, to rooftop shalas for yoga or into the colourfully painted backstreets dotted with mosques, temples and churches.

GETTING AROUND

Varkala’s beaches are 3km west of Varkala Town and Varkala Sivagiri train station; autorickshaws and local buses run between Varkala Town and the seafront. Beachfront Varkala is generally walkable, with paths threading along the cliffs, though it can be tricky to navigate once off the main clifftop strip. Autorickshaws gather at the North Cliff helipad and outside the Janardhana Temple; from the helipad to South Cliff guesthouses costs around ₹120. Some travellers hire scooters to zip around locally, which cost around ₹450 per day.

SIGHTS

1   Black Beach

2   Janardhana Temple

3   Odayam Beach

4   Papanasam Beach

ACTIVITIES

5   AyurSoul

6   Soul & Surf

SLEEPING

7   InDa Hotel

8   Kaiya House

9   Lost Hostel

10   Maadathil Cottages

11   Mad About Coco

Soul & Surf (see 6)

12   Villa Jacaranda

EATING

13   ABBA

14   Café del Mar

15   Cafe TripisLife

16   Chimney Family Restaurant

17   Coffee Temple

18   Darjeeling Cafe

Soul Food Cafe (see 6)

19   Suprabhatham

TOP TIP

All beaches in this area can develop dangerous currents – take care when out in the water.

Beach Bliss

Quiet coves to pilgrimage spots

With its earthy-red cliffs cascading down to meet slivers of gold-and-black sand washed by the often-bath-warm Arabian Sea, Varkala’s naturally spectacular setting makes it a dreamy escape for beach lovers. It’s all very laid-back, and most people simply pick a patch of sand and stretch out their towel before plunging into the waves. The shoreline here is a treat for holidaying families too, though note that there can be strong currents.

At the heart of it all lies cliff-edged Papanasam Beach, a powdery (and busy) strand where swimmers and sunseekers gather; the middle of the beach (near the Beach Rd junction) is considered a holy spot by Hindus. But for quieter beach time, head further north or south. At the far southern end of Papanasam, there’s a gorgeous slip of feathery sand just beneath the South Cliffs. Immediately north of the North Cliff, Black Beach (Thiruvambady Beach) is a pretty, smaller sandy cove. Around 1km north of the North Cliff, honey-coloured Odayam Beach provides a refreshingly peaceful refuge away from the main action. From here, a clutch of largely undeveloped sands, including Kappil Beach, stretch north almost all the way to Kollam. Lucky beachgoers might spot dolphins skimming through the waters off Varkala’s coast.

Surfers’ Paradise

Catch the Varkala waves

Whether you’re a complete beginner or a pro, surfing in Varkala is a tropical thrill, thanks to a string of wave-washed beaches that await exploration both north and south of town. The scene here has a strong community focus, tying in initiatives such as beach clean-ups and surf camps for local kids.

Shops along the cliffs rent surfboards and boogie boards for experienced surfers, though take care with currents on Varkala’s beaches. For a deep-dive into riding the waves here (and insider tips on the season’s best spots), sign up for a multiday course with a reputable surf school. Classes typically kick off early in the morning when conditions are best, and the main surfing season runs roughly October to April.

Well-established Soul & Surf was a pioneer on Varkala’s surf scene and revolves around a dreamy retreat perched on Varkala’s South Cliffs, with rooftop yoga, stylish accommodation and a laid-back cafe thrown into the mix. It runs surf courses and two-hour early-morning or sunset classes, and surf locations move around depending on where the waves are best each day; drop-in spots might be available for classes even if you aren’t staying on-site.

It isn’t all about surfing here though. If you’re keen to explore inland waterways near Varkala, head out on a kayaking or paddle-boarding trip; from around October to May, Can Fly Adventure runs sunrise and sunset excursions lasting three to four hours.

A Holy Hindu Town

Varkala’s spiritual heart

Varkala might be a fun-loving beach and surf destination, but it is also an important Hindu pilgrimage town. Looming over Beach Rd just 500m inland from Papanasam Beach, the Janardhana Temple is devoted to Vishnu as Janardana and draws pilgrims from across Kerala. It is believed to date in one shape or another from the 13th century. From the temple tank on Beach Rd, climb the steep staircases and wander beneath an ancient banyan tree to admire a granite-built Tamil-style mandapa (pillared pavilion) leading to the central shrine and several small shrines devoted to other Hindus deities including Hanuman and Ayyapan. Only Hindus are permitted to enter the main shrine, but the grounds are open to everyone. On nearby Papanasam Beach, priests perform pujas (prayers) for passed loved ones and pilgrims bathe in the sea, whose waters are believed to wash away sins.

Coastal Stroll

North from Varkala

For a leisurely walk that evokes everything that makes this stretch of Kerala’s southern coast so dreamy, follow the meandering path heading north from Varkala’s North Cliffs to gorgeous, undeveloped Kappil Beach. Over 8km (around two hours), the landscape morphs from rust-coloured laterite cliffs into slender golden beaches and eventually reaches a small backwaters network, passing tranquil Odayam Beach and tiny Edava fishing village (an increasingly popular surf spot) along the way. The best time to head out is first thing in the morning, when the heat isn’t overwhelming and local fishers are bringing in their nets on the sand. Pick up an auto-rickshaw along the coastal road to zip back to Varkala.

VARKALA SURF SPOTS

Judith Mueller is a surfer and Camp Manager at Soul & Surf (@soulandsurfindia) in Varkala.

When it comes to India, you usually think about temples, spirituality and food, but not necessarily about surfing, right? Neither did I, until I came to Varkala. This little town has beautiful beaches not only for swimming and breathtaking sunsets but also surfing, as well as an ancient temple, authentic local food and the most welcoming community.

My favourite surf spot is Edava, a perfect-shaped lefthander, even when small. When swell arrives in Varkala it is a possible barrel heaven, and the line-up is super-friendly and laid-back. My tip is to go after surf lessons around 10.30am, or at sunset, as the view is incredible.

Seafront Asanas

Yoga by the sea

While Varkala isn’t necessarily a place for serious yoga training (unless you’re joining a dedicated course), there’s no denying that stretching, twisting and breathing into the day from an open-sided shala atop the red-laterite cliffs here feels pretty special. There are some superb classes on offer with locally based teachers, from fast-paced vinyasa yoga to restorative yin and meditation sessions. Drop-in classes and multiday retreats are widely available all over town; most guesthouses and hotels will have a personal recommendation for a teacher. Soul & Surf on the South Cliffs hosts a regular line-up of yoga and meditation sessions in its rooftop shala (book ahead); on the North Cliff, popular guesthouse Mad About Coco has classes too.

ALCOHOL IN KERALA

Kerala is believed to have the highest per capita alcohol consumption in India, estimated at around 8L annually (though some recent figures dispute this).

A controversial alcohol ban was introduced in 2014 resulting in hundreds of bars closing down (most of them temporarily), then reversed in 2017, and restrictions have continued to ease since. At the time of writing, alcohol can be served in most hotels, bars and airports as well as licensed restaurants, and new pub-style bars are popping up, particularly in Kochi.

The first day of the month is always a dry day across the state, as are some local and India-wide holidays such as Gandhi Jayanti (2 October).

EATING & DRINKING IN VARKALA: OUR PICKS

Soul Food Cafe: This beautiful garden cafe does Kerala-style dishes, breakfast plates, water refills and Western Ghats coffee. hours vary ₹₹₹

Darjeeling Cafe: Tasty momos, biryani, pastas and meen pollichatthu on lively North Cliff terrace. 7am-11pm ₹₹

ABBA: Relaxed terrace restaurant halfway along the North Cliff; salads, breakfasts, curries, cocktails and other treats. 8am-11pm ₹₹

Café del Mar: North Cliff long-timer for reliably good favourites, from samosas to international breakfasts and good coffee. 7.30am-11pm ₹₹

Cafe TripisLife: This South Cliffs spot, 1km south of the temple, delivers lovely curries and lush gardens. 8.30am-10pm ₹₹₹

Suprabhatham: Busy South Indian kitchen in Varkala Town; masala dosa, thalis, uttapam and other pure-veg good-ness. 8am-9.30pm ₹

Coffee Temple: Real espresso and freshly ground beans from a tiny, friendly cafe just north along the cliffs from the helipad. hours vary ₹₹

Chimney Family Restaurant: Popular spot in the thick of Varkala Town, known for its delectable thalis and biryanis. noon-10pm ₹₹

Isle of Gold

Ancient fort, hidden temple

Flung out in the middle of a shimmering lake, 10km south of Varkala, tiny acacia-shaded Ponnumthuruthu (Golden Island) centres on a Shiva-Parvati shrine thought to be at least a century old. While the temple itself is open only to Hindus, the chance to kayak across or take a canoe journey out to it is just as much of a draw. Most accommodation places in Varkala can organise rickshaw tours with waiting time for visiting the island; go in the early morning before the heat picks up.

Just 6km southeast of Ponnumthuruthu, don’t miss impressive Anchuthengu Fort (Anjengo Fort), a 1695 creation by the British East India Company. Climbing to the top of the concrete-and-laterite walls opens up sprawling views across colourful Anchuthengu village, one of the earliest British trading posts established in India – it was here that the landmark 1721 Attingal Rebellion happened.

Flying High

See Varkala from the sky

On clear southern days, you’ll often spot paragliders swooping around high above Varkala’s beach, drinking in the panoramic views of this delicious stretch of tropical coastline. Tempted to join in? Well-established Can Fly Adventure runs tandem flights of 10 to 20 minutes, led by a professional paragliding instructor, usually coming in to land on the helipad or the golden beach below. From up high, Varkala’s cliff-edged scenery takes on a whole new spectacle. The paragliding season runs from around December to April, depending on conditions.

Varkala beach | DMITRY RUKHLENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ONAM

Celebrated across Kerala during the Malayali month of Chingam (August/September), Onam is the state’s greatest cultural festivity, honouring the mythical king Mahabali and marking the harvest season over 10 days. Though traditionally a Hindu festival, it is also a celebration of local arts, food, culture and family, in which Malayalis of all different religions get involved.

Traditional kasavu saris are the dress of choice for many people, while the famous onasadya – an all-vegetarian banana-leaf feast of Kerala flavours – is another highlight.

Traditional arts take over stages everywhere, from Kathakali to mohiniyattam classical dance, and homes all over Kerala are beautifully decorated with floral pookalam.

HELP ME PICK:

Ayurveda

Believed to date back at least 2000 years (it was first documented in the Vedas), India’s traditional medical system is intricately linked to Kerala’s identity, climate and flora. It gets its name from the Sanskrit ‘ayu’, meaning life, and ‘veda’, which means knowledge or science. Treatment centres are dotted all over the state, ranging from small family-owned clinics with a well-established local reputation to five-star wellness havens where you can retreat for weeks of therapies in serious luxury.

Where to experience ayurveda

Kovalam, Varkala & Around

Somatheeram One of southern Kerala’s original ayurvedic resorts, known for its prize-winning treatment plans and cottage-style accommodation overlooking Chowara Beach, 7km southeast of Kovalam.

Niraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra Luxe seafront escape in Pulinkudi (near Kovalam) with outdoor yoga, Kerala-architecture-inspired rooms, superb meals and multi-night ayurveda programmes.

AyurSoul Popular ayurveda centre near Varkala’s North Cliff, aimed at women and couples, offering both drop-in treatments and extended programmes.

Bethsaida Hermitage Smart, professional beachfront retreat that does single treatments and more serious ayurvedic plans; located 7km southeast of Kovalam in Pulinkudi.

CGH Earth This respected, top-end hotel chain with a sustainable ethos runs two ayurvedic retreats in Kerala, including Kalari Rasayana between Varkala and Kollam (Quilon).

Central Kerala

Ayurdara Well-established ayurveda centre on Vypeen Island, 6km north of Fort Cochin, specialising in treatment plans of one or more weeks, with accommodation.

Niraamaya Retreats Backwaters & Beyond Kumarakom Five-star ayurvedic retreat on the eastern shores of Lake Vembanad, for in-depth programmes running from three nights to a month.

Fort Ayurveda Well-regarded ayurvedic centre, with both day spa and longer packages, attached to the lovely Fort House Hotel.

Amal Tamara Elegant boutique-style retreat offering a range of specialised extended programmes, on the west banks of Lake Vembanad.

River Retreat Around 30km north of Thrissur, this one-time palace of the Maharajas of Cochin is now also an established ayurvedic resort.

Sitaram A sustainability-focused ayurveda centre with branches in both Thrissur and Munnar.

Northern Kerala

Neeleshwar Hermitage A luxurious beachfront resort with a sustainable ethos near Bekal that doubles as a reputable ayurvedic retreat, with yoga, meditation and wonderful cooking.

Kannur Ayurvedic Centre Locally recommended small ayurvedic centre in Kalpetta, for those seeking treatments in the Wayanad region.

Ayurvedic incense and oils | DAVE STAMBOULIS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

HOW TO

When to go The traditional ayurveda season is the monsoon, when the body is believed to be most receptive; most centres operate year-round.

Before you go It’s important to read up and understand the kinds of treatments involved in ayurveda, some of which can be very intense (see below).

Choosing treatments In most cases an ayurvedic doctor will recommend appropriate therapies; prices are as varied as the range of ayurveda centres.

Hotel spas Along with serious ayurvedic centres, there are also spas offering ayurveda-style treatments on a more casual basis, often in high-end hotels.

Ayurveda: The Basics

Ayurveda was first recorded in the Vedas, but it is likely to be even older. Today practiced by university-trained doctors, ayurveda revolves around the idea that people have three doshas (humours), which together make up the tridoshas – vata (air/space), pitta (fire) and kapha (water/earth). The aim is to restore the natural balance between them, as a lack or excess of a particular dosha can cause health problems. For most, there will be one (or maybe two) dominant doshas. Ayurveda is about maintaining balance and preventing illness, rather than curing symptoms (though these often overlap). There are two main treatment methods – herbal massage and panchakarma (purification or cleansing), which is typically recommended for more serious medical issues, and centres on five types of detoxification therapies. Programmes are prescribed for each person’s individual requirements following a consultation with an ayurvedic doctor, and often also involve yoga, meditation and a tailored diet. Oil massages and herbal-steam baths help prepare the body.

Panchakarma therapies include nasya (eliminating toxins through the nose using oil), vaman (therapeutic vomiting), virechan (purgation), vasti (enemas) and raktamoksha (bloodletting). The most extreme of these are only used occasionally, though ayurveda purification can be intense.

Beyond Varkala

A culture-rich capital, buzzy tropical beaches, go-slow backwater islands, ancient palaces and a lively surf vibe await in the far south

Kerala’s deep south unfolds in a swirl of electric-green palms, gold-tinged beaches and shimmering estuaries. The energetic state capital Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), 50km southeast of Varkala, provides a compact taste of urban life, with superb museums, heritage buildings, Kerala cuisine and a revered Hindu temple. Just 15km southeast from Trivandrum, Kovalam’s powdery crescent beaches make up one of Kerala’s most-loved seaside playgrounds; this now-developed beach town grew from a small fishing village from the 1930s onwards, and there’s still a village feel among the colourful streets weaving through greenery.

North from Varkala, the beach-lined coast stretches all the way to Kollam (Quilon), an ancient port town on Ashtamudi Lake, with easy access to the backwaters and a clutch of sleepy islands.

Places

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum)

Kovalam

Kollam (Quilon)

GETTING AROUND

Thiruvananthapuram International Airport is southern Kerala’s air-transport hub; prepaid taxis from here cost around ₹650 to Kovalam and ₹400 into Trivandrum centre. Trivandrum and Kollam are well linked by train (as well as bus); Kovalam doesn’t have a train station, but there are good bus links.

For getting around Trivandrum, taxi apps like Ola and Uber are best; allow plenty of time as traffic can be intense. For Munroe Island, discuss transport with guesthouse hosts (unless visiting by day-trip tour).

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) TIME FROM VARKALA: 45-75MIN , 60-90MIN

Fort stroll: Trivandrum’s ancient core

Trivandrum’s old heart is the lively fort area, around 1km southwest of Trivandrum Central railway station. A wander through this pocket of town, where ancient palaces and vibrant flower stalls mingle with one of Kerala’s major temples, is an essential part of unravelling the capital’s long story. Led by wonderfully engaging guides, Storytrails offers excellent fort walking tours weaving in local legends, backstreets and history.

Framed by four elaborate main gateways, the fort dates from the 14th century, but was substantially rebuilt in the mid-18th century under Marthanda Varma, the founding maharaja of the Kingdom of Travancore, who moved the capital here from Padmanabhapuram. At its core lies the (mostly) 18th-century Shri Padmanabhaswamy Temple, a fusion of Keralite and Dravidian architecture devoted to the reclining Padmanabha (one of Vishnu’s incarnations) and believed to have roots dating from the 8th century or even earlier. While only Hindu visitors can enter the temple itself, non-Hindus can still admire its seven-tier Tamil Nadu–style gopuram (gateway tower) while approaching from the eastern fort gate; soaring 30m high, it was constructed over two centuries from 1565. The temple hit international headlines in 2011 when an estimated US$1 trillion worth of jewels, coins, crowns, idols and other treasures were unearthed here in previously unopened vaults.

On the south side of the temple tank, stroll through the sumptuous former home of the Travancore rulers at the Puthe Maliga Palace Museum, another 18th-century Kerala-architecture beauty bursting with tiled roofs, sculpted teakwood and over 100 horse carvings.

Just 500m north of the western fort gate (also called Padinjarekotta), don’t miss the Palm-Leaf Manuscripts Museum (closed Monday), which unveils intriguing snippets of Kerala’s history through 160 intricately crafted manuscripts dating from the 13th century to the 1890s, all set in a beautifully restored 350-year-old building.

Dine at a heritage landmark

Whether you’re popping into Trivandrum for some shopping or staying a couple of nights to explore the museums, a meal at Villa Maya is one of the capital’s unmissable moments. Stepping through the gate reveals water-laced gardens framing a beautiful 18th-century Dutch-built mansion, where even the bathrooms are exquisitely designed. It was once an ammaveedu (semi-royal residence), where young women who went on to become consorts of the Travancore rulers lived and studied. Now you can join a smart local crowd here for delectable menus of elevated Kerala classics and creative fusion plates. Fresh, seasonal ingredients from local farms star in dishes such as prawn-stuffed filo cones and malakari mappas (coconut stew with appam), all accompanied by wines from Indian vineyards such as Karnataka’s Grover Zampa and Maharashtra’s Fratelli.

City of museums

Trivandrum’s fascinating museum complex sits in lush parklands surrounding the Zoological Gardens, 3km north of the fort area along busy MG Rd. Note that all museums close on Monday.

Dive right in at the dramatic Napier Museum, whose curious architecture is as intriguing as its collection of bronzes, woodcarvings and stone sculptures. The 1880 building mixes Kerala design (such as a tiled roof) with neo-Gothic style, and is the work of British architect Robert Chisholm, who first studied the region’s traditional architecture. Just behind, the 2023-opened Raja Ravi Varma Art Gallery hosts a major collection of works by celebrated 19th-century Keralite artist Ravi Varma, known for his fusion of Indian and European techniques and for his efforts to make art more accessible to the general public.

Next, hop across LMS Vellayambalam Rd to the superb Keralam Museum, devoted to Kerala’s history and culture and housed in a restored 120-year-old Indo-European heritage building. Highlights wander from replicas of petroglyphs at the Edakkal Caves in Wayanad and a recreated Keralite home to astonishing bronze figures, including a 16th-century dancing Nataraja.

Heading south along MG Rd from the museums, you’ll soon pass the neo-Gothic 1900 State Central Library and St Joseph’s Cathedral (also neo-Gothic, from 1873), before reaching the lively Connemara Market (known for its textiles). For a breather, drop in at popular Ananda Bhavan, just 500m south of the market opposite the landmark neoclassical Secretariat building, where pure-veg thalis and dosas await.

CULTURAL TRIVANDRUM

Aditi Radhakrishnan is the Operations Head and a Storyteller at Storytrails in Trivandrum (@storytrails).

Thiruvananthapuram’s bounty of beaches, hills, forests and rivers is easily accessible. But I recommend visitors to partake in its vibrant cultural scene, with programs and festivals year-round.

The Nishagandhi Dance and Music Festival steals the spotlight in January, featuring classical talents from across India; Kathakali performances offer a captivating glimpse into traditional storytelling through dance. From January to March, temple festivals immerse devotees in a whirlwind of music and dance. From April to September, Thiruvananthapuram hosts myriad events, including flower shows, book fairs, and vibrant celebrations for Vishu and Onam.

EATING IN TRIVANDRUM: OUR PICKS

Cafe Sarwaa: Courtyard haven with a lifestyle boutique, serving juices, omelettes, pancakes and coffee, in eastern Tri-vandrum. 10am-7.30pm ₹₹

Ariya Nivaas: Long-established favourite, just north of Trivandrum Central station, always packed for its delicious all-veg thalis. 7am-10pm ₹

Azad: Kerala classics at busy Azad, 500m north of East Fort; also has a downstairs bakery for sweet snacks. 9.30am-10pm ₹

Indian Coffee House: Locally loved branch next to the bus stand; filter coffee, masala dosa and treats in a spiralling tower-like space. 7am-10pm ₹

VANDE BHARAT TRAINS

Introduced in Kerala in 2023 with enormous success, India’s new Vande Bharat trains have revolutionised rail travel across the state.

Running between Trivandrum Central and Kasaragod in just eight hours, the air-conditioned service provides a much-needed fast-rail link between the southern and northern reaches of Kerala, with stops including Kollam, Alleppey, Ernakulam (for Kochi), Thrissur, Calicut and Kannur. Ernakulam to Kannur, for example, now takes only 3½ hours. At the time of writing, it was running six days a week (no services on Thursday). Tickets are available through all the usual train-booking systems, and they get snapped up quickly. Happy travels!

EATING & DRINKING IN KOVALAM: OUR PICKS

Curry Leaf: Ocean views just above Samudra Beach; delicious pakora, masala-fried prawns and fish pollichathu. 8.30am-11pm ₹₹

Varsha Hotel: Tiny kitchen down a lane behind Lighthouse Beach for South Indian classics (masala dosa, thalis). 8am-10pm ₹

Bait: Oceanfront seafood spot at Taj Green Cove, where fresh fish, tofu and paneer arrive soaked in a choice of spices. 12.30-3pm & 7-10pm ₹₹₹

Waves: Classic hangout on Lighthouse Beach, great for breakfast; coffee, pastries, ayurvedic meals and more. 7.30am-11pm ₹₹

Leela: At this clifftop resort, all-day Terrace does elegant bites, while beachfront Tides is all about seafood. hours vary ₹₹₹

Fusion: Creative cooking on a terrace at the south end of Lighthouse Beach, from pasta to thalis to lovely breakfasts. 8am-10.30pm ₹₹

Suprabhatham: Kerala-style breakfasts (dosas, uttapam, puttu) and all-veg thalis, in a courtyard just in from Lighthouse Beach. 7am-11pm ₹

Usthad Hotel: Local haunt on Vinzhinjam Harbour Rd, known for its fried fish with masala and other seafood plates. 9am-2am Sat-Thu ₹

Kovalam TIME FROM VARKALA: 75-90MIN

Beautiful beaches, wonderful waves

Much of the Kovalam fun revolves around pretty Lighthouse Beach, a broad sandy strip overlooked by a candy-striped lighthouse (climb to the top for sprawling panoramas), with good swimming, lifeguard services, organised sunbeds and plenty of space to spread out. It’s a growingly popular surf spot too; if you fancy catching a few waves, link up with well-established, community-focused Kovalam Surf Club for board rental and classes catering to different levels. Just north, busy Hawa Beach is framed by coconut-fringed cliffs and has snack stalls, sunbeds and more. It’s a slightly more peaceful scene at Samudra Beach, Kovalam’s northernmost strand, which has a seafront mosque, rocky outcrops and a honey-coloured stretch of sand. There’s another rolling strip of golden sand to relax on at Chowara, 10km southeast of Kovalam, which is known for its ayurvedic retreats.

Perhaps the loveliest time to be out on the beaches is in the cool(er) air of the early morning, when local fishers gather to reel in nets, though a sunset stroll is a treat too. Wherever you go, take care with currents in the water.

Around 1km south of Lighthouse Beach, Vizhinjam village is home to a busy fishing harbour, along with one of the oldest rock-cut temples in Kerala – a tiny shrine hidden 500m inland, believed to date from the 8th century.

Lighthouse Beach | PIUS LEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL OF KERALA

Going strong since 1996 (when it was first held in Calicut), the International Film Festival of Kerala (IFFK) takes over Trivandrum every November/December in a cinematic celebration that ranks among India’s finest cultural events.

It is particularly renowned for its showcase of Malayali cinema, though many other Indian and international films debut during the festivities too, and there are also workshops and panel sessions, with events held at venues across town.

Anyone keen to attend must register and pay for a pass in advance (online), then prebook screenings usually a day ahead; slots for the most popular films get filled up quickly, but not everything is bookable in advance.

KERALA PALACES

Krishnapuram Palace Museum, another of Kerala’s outstanding traditional royal buildings, is only 35km north of Kollam and easily visited either on a day trip or en route to/from Alleppey.

EATING IN KOLLAM: OUR PICKS

8 Point Art Cafe: A restored heritage building hosts this gallery-cafe, which does great coffee and snacks. 11am-9pm ₹

Hotel Guruprasad: All the South Indian vegetarian faves – idli, dosa, vada, thalis, payasam – served in a colonial-style building in central Kollam. 7am-9pm ₹

Prasadam: Restaurant at Nani Hotel, with Kerala-meets-international cooking (lunchtime thalis, tandoori dishes). 7-10am, noon-3pm & 7-10pm ₹₹

Indian Coffee House: Classic simple spot for masala dosas, omelettes, biryanis and more, near the boat jetty. 8am-9pm ₹

Discover Kerala’s finest royal palace

The princely state of Travancore – one of the three major regions that eventually became Kerala in 1956 – was once ruled from Padmanabhapuram village, 50km southeast of Kovalam in what is today the Kanyakumari district of neighbouring Tamil Nadu. Easily accessible on a day trip from Kovalam, the exquisite Padmanabhapuram Palace (closed Monday) here remains the greatest example of traditional Kerala architecture still standing, with its most ancient sections dating from 1550. Wandering through its labyrinth of corridors and walkways connecting 15 buildings (most rulers added to the complex over the years), you’ll spot beautifully carved rosewood ceilings, sloping gabled roofs, overhanging balconies and a succession of leafy courtyards. At the heart of the complex lies the 16th-century timber-built Thai Kottaram, the oldest part of the palace, with a typical nalukettu (open courtyard).

Southern Kerala’s backwaters

Fancy a taste of Kerala’s fabled backwater magic right here in the deep south? Then head to the small coastal village of Poovar, 16km southeast of Kovalam near the Tamil Nadu border, where a sparkling network of estuaries, canals and mangroves ripples into the distance at the mouth of the Neyyar River. Roaming the waterways by small boat, you’re likely to spot a rich variety of birds, including kingfishers, Brahminy kites, herons, cormorants, egrets and darters; for maximum peacefulness, go for a sunrise cruise. Reliable local operator Kingfisher Boat Club runs a wide range of Poovar tours, mostly of around two hours.

Dive into the deep

It isn’t all about the beach in Kovalam – the area’s tropical underwater world is just as much of a thrill, with excellent diving opportunities and some of Kerala’s top dive sites. Turtles, octopi, stingrays, eels and all kinds of fish (from lionfish to sardine to red snapper to pufferfish) ply the waters here, particularly around the cliffs between Hawa and Samudra beaches. There are several shipwreck dives doable from Kovalam. Reputable Kovalam-based Bond Safari & Cool Divers offers various PADI courses, including Open Water Diver, and is also involved in local beach clean-ups and building artificial reefs.

KERALA PRIDE

While Kerala’s LGBTIQ+ community continues to face discrimination and many challenges, there is a strong and growing LGBTIQ+ Pride movement spearheaded by organisations such as Queerala, Queerythm and Sahayathrika, which also provide safe spaces, support and representation.

Kerala Queer Pride has been celebrated almost annually since 2010 at different cities across the state, with seminars, workshops and cultural events usually held alongside a Pride march or rally; its 12th edition was hosted by Malappuram in 2023. Queerythm has also organised several Pride walks in Trivandrum.

AYURVEDIC RETREATS

The coastline around Kovalam is one of the most popular parts of Kerala for experiencing ayurveda treatments, with a wide range of locally based resorts.

Kollam (Quilon) TIME FROM VARKALA: 20MIN , 45MIN

Relax on Munroe Island

Around 15km north of Kollam city centre, across Ashtamudi Lake, lushly green Munroe Island was a pioneer of village tourism in Kerala and, despite its ever-growing popularity, remains a rewarding place to retreat to. Paddle along palm-shaded canals by kayak, explore by bike at a leisurely pace or join a small punt-canoe tour led by a knowledgeable local guide to drift along the waterways.

You’re bound to see Kerala’s typical small-scale village industries in action, including coir-making, rice-barge-building, fish farming and toddy tapping.

The best way to soak up the calm of village life is by staying a night (or several) on the island; Munroe Island Back-waters Homestay is a charmingly laid-back homestay run by Vijeesh Vimalan, who also offers canoe tours.

There are also day-trip boat tours to Munroe Island from Kollam’s boat jetty (organised by the DTPC) and through Kollam-based guesthouses; most trips include lunch and a ride along the island’s canals in a punted canoe.

Still today an important commercial hub, busy Kollam is renowned for having once been a major trading port through which spices, cashews and other local crops made their way out into the rest of the world. At the northwest end of Kollam’s harbour (around 3km west of the city centre) lies Thangassery, a key former Portuguese trading post that fell into Dutch hands from the 1650s, then under control of the British East India Company in the 1680s. The remains of the 1519 Portuguese-built Fort Thomas are still visible here, along with a couple of European cemeteries.

Kollam | SOLSTOCK/GETTY IMAGES ©

KERALA’S LOVE FOR TAPIOCA

Nimi Sunilkumar is an award-winning cookbook author, food blogger and culinary demonstrator, and founder of Annapurni by Nimi’s Recipes (nimisrecipes.com).

Kerala’s aromatic tapestry of spices unfolds stories as ancient as the land itself. In the 19th century, Maharaja Visakham Thirunal Rama Varma sought a solution for famine in the princely state of Travancore.

Turning to cassava (or tapioca), a resilient plant with starchy roots, he introduced kappa (Malayalam for cassava), personally demonstrating its preparation. With cassava’s arrival on ships (following the trail of colonisation), it became a culinary cornerstone, sparing Kerala during the WWII rice shortage.

Today, rice and tapioca remain vital in Kerala’s cuisine, creating a unique harmony of flavours that celebrates the legacy of a bygone era.

See also Flavours of Kerala.

Kannur

QUIET BEACHES | ANCIENT ARTS | NORTHERN HISTORY

Arriving into Kannur, 260km north of Kochi on the low-key Malabar Coast, feels like discovering a whole different, more tranquil part of Kerala’s soul. Today powered by its handloom and cashew industries as well as its gently emerging tourism scene, this historically important former spice-trading port became the capital of the Arakkal rulers, Kerala’s only Muslim royal house. During the colonial period, the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British all vied for control of the Kannur region. Now this area is known especially for its centuries-old theyyam possession rituals, as well as its refreshingly under-explored beaches and famously delicious cuisine (from super-fresh seafood and Malabar beef roast to Thalasseri biryani). Quiet golden strands hug the coastline both north and south of midsized Kannur city, with rusty-red laterite cliffs tumbling down to the rolling Arabian Sea and coastal fishing villages and ancient forts sprinkled around.

GETTING AROUND

Kannur’s centre (around the bazaar) is walkable, but the city’s main sights are scattered around so it’s best to use autorickshaws for short hops.

For Thottada Beach, local buses run between Kannur centre and Adikadalayi village (20 minutes), from where it’s a 1km walk south to the beach; rickshaws charge ₹300 to/from central Kannur. Kannur International Airport, 28km east of Kannur itself, is a handy hub for northern Kerala; taxis between the airport and Thottada Beach cost around ₹1500.

Kannur also has great train links to destinations across Kerala, Karnataka, Goa and beyond, now including fast Vande Bharat trains (only 3½ hours to/from Ernakulam).

SIGHTS

1   Adikadalayi Beach

2   Arakkal Museum

3   Bazaar

4   Ezhara Beach

5   Fort St Angelo

5   Kappil Beach

6   Loknath Weavers’ Co-operative

7   Odam Handloom Museum

8   Payyambalam Beach

9   St John’s Church

10   Thalasseri Fort

11   Thottada Beach

SLEEPING

12   Blue Mermaid Homestay

13   Costa Malabari

14   Kannur Beach House

EATING

15   Hotel Odhen’s

16   MRA

17   Sahib’s Grill Kitchen

Golden Coast

Relax on lesser-known beaches

With miles of quiet, undeveloped sandy strands to explore, the Kannur region offers a perfect antidote to the busier beach scene of Kerala’s south. Among the loveliest spots is serene Thottada Beach, 8km southeast of central Kannur, a powder-soft sweep of honey-coloured sand and shingle framed by coconut palms and a tidal lagoon; it’s a dreamy place for an early-morning swim or catching the sunset, when local kids gather on the sand for football games and other fun. Just north of here is secluded Adikadalayi Beach, while immediately south lies palm-lined, little-explored Ezhara Beach.

Relax at one of the charming beachside homestays – some offer yoga, meditation and/or ayurveda – and lean into slow local explorations. As always when swimming along the Kerala coast, take care with ocean currents, which can be strong. Many guesthouses close during monsoon season.

Kannur’s main urban strand, 4km-long Payyambalam Beach, has a local atmosphere with people congregating here for picnics, weekend strolls and sunset views; it’s just north of the cantonment area.

Theyyam Season

Be immersed in ancient rituals

Typically held in kavus (sacred groves) and temples across Kerala’s Malabar region, theyyam is an ancient ritualistic art form in which respected male performers (always from marginalised castes) seek to embody deities and heroes through dance, song, drumming and intricate costume. Villages in the Kannur region are the best place in Kerala to see a theyyam (the term refers both to the ritual and the performer), though it can also be experienced around Kasaragod (further north), Kozhikode (further south) and Wayanad (inland).

This religious ritual is thought to predate Hinduism and have Adivasi roots, possibly emerging from early harvest festivities that involved folk dance. There are now around 450 different theyyam that can be portrayed, all with their own distinctively bright face make-up, skirts, jewellery and elaborate headdresses that can reach up to 7m tall. During a theyyam, the performer blesses devotees and offers the chance for the deity to manifest itself in human form.

The theyyam season runs from around November to April; during peak months (December to February) there is usually one happening most nights in the Kannur region. Local guesthouses can help with arranging visits and put you in touch with expert guides; Kerala Tourism publishes some theyyam dates online too. Dedicated theyyam tours (on which you often get to meet performers) are offered by culture-focused operators like Moksha Stories and The Blue Yonder.

Theyyam performer | JIMMY KAMBALLUR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KANNUR’S CHARM

For two decades, Rosi and Nazir have been welcoming guests at Kannur Beach House (@kannurbeachhouse) on Thottada Beach.

Kannur is known for its very distinctive Mappila (a community in the Malabar region) cuisine, which is a blend of traditional Kerala-style, Persian, Middle Eastern and European food cultures. Born and raised in Kannur, we love the quiet, laid-back nature of the beautiful Thottada beach area, and at our homestay we delight in giving our guests the local seasonal flavours of Malabar incorporating ayurvedic principles.

We recommend walking in the village, sipping chaaya (Indian tea) or kappi (coffee and ginger drink) on the way, watching the local artisans and handloom weavers in action, and witnessing a theyyam with a guide like Mr Praveen Shenoy.

EATING IN KANNUR: OUR PICKS

Hotel Odhen’s: Lunch-only classic in Kannur’s bazaar area, renowned for its banana-leaf thalis bursting with Malabar flavours. noon-4pm ₹

Sahib’s Grill Kitchen: Bistro-vibe meals mixing Indian and international touches (pastas, burgers, steaks), on a bungalow verandah. 11.30am-10.30pm ₹₹

MRA: Tandoori dishes, biryani, dosas and Kerala classics (from mango-prawn curry to fish molee), along with a bakery, next to Kannur station. 8am-11.30pm ₹₹

Ancient Forts & Woven Wonders

A flavour of Kannur’s history

Originally built by the Portuguese in the early 16th century, Kannur’s impressive laterite Fort St Angelo showcases this northern region’s tumultuous history through its distinctive blend of architectures. Jutting out into the sea around 3km south of the city centre, the well-preserved 1505 fortress is now a refreshing place to stroll. It passed from Portuguese to Dutch to British hands, but in between was sold to the powerful Arakkal family, Kerala’s only Muslim royal family, whose roots date back to the 12th century. Find out more about the Arakkal dynasty (who allied with Tipu Sultan against the British in late 19th century) at their former royal palace, a traditional Kerala building now converted into the nearby Arakkal Museum (closed Monday).

It’s also rewarding to wander around Kannur’s central bazaar, where stalls overflow with everything from pineapples and bananas to gleaming gold. Anyone interested in this region’s important centuries-old weaving heritage should check out the 2023-opened Odam Handloom Museum (closed Monday), set in a restored Indo-European heritage building just 1km west of the bazaar; you can also pop in at the Loknath Weavers’ Co-operative (4km east of the centre) to see the modern-day process at one of Kannur’s oldest handloom cooperatives.

Around 20km southeast of Kannur, Thalasseri Fort is a dramatic, British-built 1708 construction looming over a former colonial-era trading hub for pepper and cardamom; while here, don’t miss St John’s Church, a neo-Gothic creation from 1867.

THEYYAM CONSIDERATIONS

While visitors are welcome to attend at many theyyam performances, it is important to know that some theyyam still involve the ritual sacrifice of an animal (often, though not limited to, cockerels).

Though these days many theyyam gatherings have moved away from this traditional element, we recommend consulting a local expert in each region to find a cruelty-free theyyam. It’s also key to remember that this ancient ritual is about witnessing an intense spiritual experience of local importance, not watching a staged performance.

Visitors should wear temple-appropriate clothing, ask before taking photographs or videos, and avoid disturbing performers and participants.

ASHTANGA YOGA

Anyone interested in serious yoga training in South India will want to spend time in the world’s capital of Ashtanga yoga, Mysuru (Mysore), in neighbouring Karnataka.

Beyond Kannur

Northern thrills: a low-key delight of a coastline where secluded dusty-gold beaches and little-touristed backwaters disappear into the distance beyond centuries-old forts

North from Kannur, Kerala’s Malabar Coast stretches all the way to the border with neighbouring Karnataka, taking in quiet coastal villages, lazy backwaters and glinting sweeps of sand where there is often no one else around. Wedged between the market towns of Kasaragod and Kanhangad, around 75km northwest of Kannur, Bekal is known for its 17th-century fort and beautiful back-to-nature beaches, south of which ripple Kerala’s quieter northern backwaters.

Kozhikode (still mostly called Calicut), 90km south of Kannur, is northern Kerala’s largest city with over 430,000 residents and was once the capital of the Zamorin rulers, who successfully remained independent until the 1760s. These days, for travellers Calicut is mostly a transport hub en route to or from Wayanad, Kerala’s north coast or Mysuru and Bengaluru in Karnataka – but it also has a locally famous food scene and hosts the annual Kerala Literature Festival.

Places

Bekal & Around

Valiyaparamba

Ranipuram

Kozhikode (Calicut)

GETTING AROUND

The international airports at Kannur, Kozhikode and Mangaluru (Manga-lore; in Karnataka) are convenient for reaching this part of Kerala. Bekal Fort has a few handy train services to/from other parts of Kerala as well as neighbouring Karnataka; many more trains, plus buses, serve nearby Kasaragod and Kanhangad. For getting around locally, cycling is a great option. For the Vali-yarapamba back-waters, Payyanur (with a well-linked train station) is the hop-off point. Calicut also has good train and bus services.

Bekal & Around TIME FROM KANNUR: 2HR BY /

Roam Kerala’s largest fort

Set on a rocky elevated promontory overlooking the ocean (halfway between Kasaragod and Kanhangad), spectacular Bekal Fort is both Kerala’s most expansive fortress and arguably also its most historically intriguing. Strolling along the top of the imposing laterite-brick walls, with sandy beaches disappearing into the distance all around, provides a breezy first glimpse of this far-northern pocket of Kerala stretching towards the Karnataka border.

The fort was constructed between 1645 and 1660 by the Ikkeri Nayaks, a powerful dynasty that emerged from the Vijayanagar empire, and still retains its well-preserved moat and observation towers. It became part of the Kingdom of Mysore in the 1760s, before falling under British control in 1792. Approaching the complex, you’ll spot a small Hindu temple devoted to Hanuman at the fort entrance.

A fun way to explore Bekal and its fort is as part of a five-hour, 25km cycling tour offered by well-established adventure operator Muddy Boots.

Beach retreats

The tranquil, palm-bordered beaches stretching north and south from Bekal are a perfect recipe for blissful northern escapes (though take care with strong ocean currents and shifting sandbars). The long, golden beach surrounding Bekal Fort gets busy with a mixed crowd of locals and visitors, especially at weekends, and in recent years has hosted the popular Bekal International Beach Festival in December. Just 6km further north, honey-sand Kappil Beach brings a taste of seclusion, while Nileshwar Beach (18km southeast of Bekal) is a seemingly endless strand of cream-hued bliss.

Adding to the appeal of all these beautiful beaches is the chance to stay a few nights at one of area’s serene top-end hotels, from which you can head out cycling through coastal villages and visit local temples before returning to expert-led cooking classes and curative ayurvedic treatments. Perhaps most magical of all is Neeleshwar Hermitage, a subtly stylish beach-facing resort designed according to the principles of Kerala vastu architecture, where ayurveda therapies, morning yoga and blissful indoor-outdoor rooms await among tropical hibiscus-filled gardens.

Valiyaparamba TIME FROM KANNUR: 1HR

Cruise Kerala’s northern backwaters

Halfway between Kannur and Kasaragod lies a completely entrancing stretch of northern coastline, where five rivers (including the Thejaswini) converge in the rippling backwaters around Valiyaparamba island. Much less touristed than Kerala’s southern waterways, the Valiyaparamba back-waters offer blissful seclusion among a sea of bottle-green coconut palms, whether you fancy a DIY adventure by local ferry or relaxing on a fully equipped houseboat with its own chef. On most trips here, you’re likely to see coir-making, visit local fishing villages and spot a rich variety of birds.

Locally based Bekal Ripples offers a range of Valiyaparamba houseboat cruises, including two-hour sunset trips, full-day excursions with lunch and romantic overnight itineraries. And the Lotus Houseboat – run by the sustainability-driven Neeleshwar Hermitage resort – offers luxurious overnight stays out on the water. Active souls, meanwhile, will enjoy the low-key backwaters kayaking trips organised by Muddy Boots (book ahead), who also run excursions to visit a local mussel farm before hopping on a boat and enjoying a walk on a small peninsula among the backwaters.

With a little pre-planning, you can alternatively explore the waterways aboard public ferries operated by the State Water Transport Department, which travel between the jetties at Kotti (near Payyanur train station), Ayitti and Ori; check official SWTD schedules online in advance.

And if you fancy fully escaping here for a few nights, seek out V Retreat, a tranquil homestay set between the back-waters and an almost-empty beach, where days start with Kerala breakfasts and hazy sunrises over the water.

WHY I LOVE KERALA’S NORTH COAST

Isabella Noble, Lonely Planet writer

There’s a special, slow beauty to Kerala’s far north coast, which feels worlds away from the busier scene in the south. I love the quiet pace here, the chance to start the day with a yoga practice overlooking the ocean or by cycling to a small village temple, along with the fabulous Malabar meals bursting with distinctive spices and historical influences.

It’s perfectly possible to walk for miles along the gorgeous, undeveloped honey-toned beaches, where palms trickle along the edge of the soft sand, sparkling backwaters stretch inland and sunsets tinge the sky in irresistible peachy-pink shades each evening. If you’re planning just a day or two here, you’ll almost definitely end up staying longer.

Ranipuram TIME FROM KANNUR: 2.5HR

Hike through misty border forests

While all those dazzling beaches tend to steal the show, heading away from the coast reveals beautiful forested hills in northern Kerala’s hinterland. On the Kerala–Karnataka border, 50km inland from Bekal (or 95km north of Kannur), the Ranipuram Hills area is often called ‘the Ooty of Kerala’ for its dramatic mist-cloaked mountain scenery, and makes a rewarding day trip from the coast. A trek of around 2.5km each way (two hours or so in total) leads through cool shola and open grasslands to Ranipuram crag at 750m high, with spectacular rolling views. Wild elephants, deer and other wildlife are often spotted in the surrounding countryside.

Kozhikode (Calicut) TIME FROM KANNUR: 1-2HR , 2.5HR

A culinary haven

Ask any Keralite about Calicut and they’re highly likely to instantly mention the fantastic food of northern Kerala’s biggest city. Calicut is the epicentre of Kerala’s famously delicious regional Mappila cuisine, which emerged over the centuries from a blend of Malabar Muslim cooking with Middle Eastern influences introduced by traders who arrived here from the 7th century CE onwards.

Rich spices, roasted coconut, meaty recipes and fresh local seafood are all part of the picture. Classic dishes you might devour on a self-guided food tour of Kozhikode’s restaurants include pathiri (rice-flour flatbreads, usually served with meat or fish curry), kallumakai (green mussels found only here on the Malabar coast), decadent biryanis, kozhi ada (deep-fried chicken dumplings), unnakkaya (deep-fried banana stuffed with raisins, nuts and coconut) and erachi puttu (made with meat masala). Also raved about are the region’s delectable halwas (sugary desserts). Most people make a beeline for long-running local icon Paragon, which now has branches across Kerala and beyond, though there are plenty of other tempting kitchens.

For more on Kozhikode’s Mappila cuisine, check out the written works of Ummi Abdulla, fondly know as ‘the matriarch of Mappila food’.

Calicut is also known for hosting the major Kerala Literature Festival every January/February.

KAPPAD & MAHÉ

Just 15km north of Calicut, Kappad Beach is where Vasco da Gama first landed in India in 1498, paving the way for European colonisation; it is now a popular Blue Flag–certified beach. Another 45km to the north lies the riverside town of Mahé (originally Mayyazhi), which is in fact part of the Union Territory of Puducherry (Pondicherry), along with Puducherry, Karaikal and Yanam.

Mahé spent over 200 years under (mostly) French rule, from 1721 to 1954, though the British pushed in several times throughout the Napoleonic Wars. The sheltered estuary here made Mahé a key trading port, and today the town retains some of its European architecture, including a Parisian-like promenade and the revered 1736 St Theresa Shrine.

EATING IN KOZHIKODE (CALICUT): OUR PICKS

Paragon Restaurant: Calicut’s must-try kitchen, going strong since 1939; join the queues for the famous chicken biryani and seafood. 6am-11.30pm ₹₹

Zains: Malabar cuisine, local snacks, biryanis and meen pathiri (rice-based pancake with fried fish) at a local favourite with three decades of history. 12.30-11pm ₹

Adaminde Chayakkada: Hugely popular retro-vibe restaurant for fresh Malabar dishes with a creative touch, and lunchtime thalis. 8am-midnight ₹₹

Wayanad

RICH WILDLIFE | MOUNTAIN TREKS | HOMESTAY HAVENS

Dripping with moody mountainscapes and reached by spine-tingling hairpin-bend roads, the elevated Wayanad region is the only part of Kerala that borders both Karnataka and Tamil Nadu, with contiguous wildlife sanctuaries rippling between the three states. Here in the northernmost part of Kerala’s Western Ghats, altitudes range from 700m to 2100m and the landscapes feel almost hauntingly beautiful. Quiet forests emerge from the mist, rugged peaks loom beyond electric-green rice paddies, coffee and cardamom plantations sit between spindly betel nut trees, and the Kabini River sweeps through to join the sacred Kaveri in Karnataka.

In recent years, Wayanad has grown into a hugely popular hill-country escape for visitors keen to go wildlife-watching, trekking, cycling, rafting and more. At the same time, this region is also home to Kerala’s largest Adivasi population, and many of these communities continue to face displacement.

The district has three bustling main towns – Mananthavadi (northwest), Kalpetta (south) and Sultanbatheri (east) – but the best of Wayanad is out among the greenery.

GETTING AROUND

Wayanad encom-passes a large region and requires some planning to explore, but it’s easily accessible from northern Kerala, as well as from Tamil Nadu and Karnataka.

Local buses provide regular links between the three main towns, and also run to/from the Tholpetty and Muthanga gates for Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary. Taxis charge around ₹2500 for a full-day trip. Buses link Wayanad with Kannur and Calicut on Kerala’s north coast, along with Ernakulam (Kochi) and even Trivandrum.

There are also buses to/from Ooty (in Tamil Nadu) and Mysuru and Bengaluru (in Karnataka). The closest airports are at Calicut and Kannur.

SIGHTS

1   Jain Temple

2   Nagarhole Tiger Reserve

3   Panamaram Jain Temple

4   Thirunelly Temple

5   Wayanad Heritage Museum

6   Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary

7   Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary (Muthanga)

8   Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary (Tholpetty)

ACTIVITIES

9   Edakkal Caves

SLEEPING

10   Amaryllis

11   Ente Veedu

12   Jungle Retreat Wayanad

13   Tranquil

14   Varnam Homestay

15   Wayanad Wild

EATING

16   Aswathi Bhavan

17   Indian Coffee House

18   Wilton Restaurant

TOP TIP

A big part of Wayanad’s appeal is about staying somewhere secluded with nature on the doorstep, from remote homestays to rolling plantation estates to hillside five-stars. Local homestays cook up some of the region’s most delicious meals.

A Wild World

Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary by safari

Thick with rosewood and other deciduous-forest trees, Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary is a serenely beautiful and richly biodiverse place where peacocks and langurs amble through a fiercely protected 345-sq-km expanse also home to wild elephants, sambar, turtles, chital deer, gaur and wild boar. While sightings can never be guaranteed, this pristine pocket of Western Ghats nature is one of the top places in Kerala to see elephants in the wild, though just spending time in the raw forest here is a joy.

Also part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, the sanctuary sits within a wider wildlife corridor linked up with several other nature reserves in Karnataka and Tamil Nadu, with the occasional tiger or leopard padding through too. It’s rich in birdlife as well, providing a refuge for over 250 feathered species including great hornbills, Bonelli’s eagles and several types of vulture (whose numbers have been decimated across India in recent decades).

The only way to dive into the sanctuary is on an official two-hour jeep safari with a guide and a driver, which leave from the park’s two entrances, Tholpetty (north) or Muthanga (east). The top wildlife-spotting months are November to April, peaking in March/April when animals tend to gather at dwindling water sources, though the sanctuary often closes from mid-March to mid-April due to fire risk. For the best chances of sighting wildlife, hop on either the first or last trip of the day.

Wayanad On Foot

Hit the mountain trekking trails

There’s no better way to savour Wayanad’s ethereal natural beauty than by strolling along the quiet shores of the Kabini River in the early morning or tackling the forest-fringed path up 1608m-tall Brahmagiri. Heading out on foot will get you to pockets of Wayanad that most visitors don’t reach, and while trekking in Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary itself is not permitted, there are some rewarding routes weaving through the surrounding area.

At the time of research, three main Wayanad treks were open, all requiring mandatory Forest Department guides and permits (which local accommodation can help organise). Among these is Chembra, the region’s beloved highest peak, looming 2100m tall over southern Wayanad; trekking here is only permitted up to a heart-shaped lake at the halfway point though (around 4km each way). Also popular is Brahmagiri, in northern Wayanad, which involves a 16km return trek through misty forests to emerge above 1600m, starting from the revered Thirunelly Temple. Or explore western Wayanad’s Banasura Hills, where peaceful shola forests and sprawling views are the reward for a 12km return trek.

Reputable local adventure operator Muddy Boots runs a range of thrilling treks across Wayanad, including relaxed half-day excursions along the Kabini River that end with crossing it by raft and full-day trips to summit Brahmagiri Peak; it also does fun cycling tours exploring both south and north Wayanad.

Prehistoric Art

Climb to the Edakkal Caves

Hidden at around 1200m high in eastern Wayanad’s Ambukuthi Hills, the set of caverns known as Edakkal Caves shines a light on a key chapter of South India’s prehistory. Etched into the stone walls here is a series of Neolithic petroglyphs thought to date from between 6000 BCE and 1000 BCE, depicting human figures, hunting scenes and animals (elephants, wild dogs, peacocks) along with abstract patterns. The cave etchings were put on today’s world map in 1894, when a British police officer stumbled across them (with the help of local Adivasi communities), and remain one of Wayanad’s most popular attractions.

Reaching the caves (which close on Mondays) involves a steep walk up 300 steps from a car park near Ambalavayal village, 12km southwest of Sultanbatheri. Access is by group, with a guide, and you’ll want to arrive early to beat the crowds (skip weekends if possible). While exploring this area, don’t miss the Wayanad Heritage Museum in Ambalavayal, which dives into the region’s history, including its important Adivasi heritage.

PRACTICALITIES: WAYANAD WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

Unlike for some of South India’s other popular wildlife reserves, at the time of writing it was not possible to prebook jeep safaris at Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary. Unless anything changes (ask locally for updates), two-hour safaris (for up to six people) are arranged on the spot at the sanctuary’s two entrances, Tholpetty (24km northeast of Mananthavadi) or Muthanga (14km east of Sultanbatheri). Opening hours are 7am to 10am and 3pm to 5pm.

To secure tickets and a jeep, it’s best to arrive at the gate at least an hour before opening time, especially during high season (November to March); you’re likely to be asked for ID, so bring your passport.

Sacred Places

Wayanad through its temples

Curled into the lower reaches of the Brahmagiri Hills, around 25km north of Mananthavadi, Thirunelly Temple is believed to be one of India’s most ancient temples and is an important part of Wayanad’s identity. It is devoted to Vishnu, drawing pilgrims from all over Kerala. While the main temple is open only to Hindus, the mountain setting is as spectacular as the feast of elaborately carved pillars seen outside, and non-Hindus can wander uphill to the sacred Papanasini stream. A visit to Thirunelly Temple, which sits at around 900m, is easily combined with Wayanad’s popular Brahmagiri trek (see).

Over in eastern Wayanad, Sultanbateri gets its curious name from a fort built by Tipu Sultan in the 18th century, when the region was annexed by the Kingdom of Mysore. The fort itself disappeared long ago, but on the western edge of town you can still see an earlier 13th-century granite-built Jain Temple with intricately carved stone pillars – a relic from Wayanad’s historically important Jain community, it was later used as an artillery base by the Mysore army. There’s another beautifully carved, now-crumbling Jain temple on the roadside just northeast of Panamaram, 25km northwest of Sultanbatheri (or 13km southeast from Mananthavadi).

Thirunelly Temple | TIJOGEMINI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WHERE TO STAY IN WAYANAD

Wayanad is a large, spread-out region with seemingly endless accommodation options, and travelling back and forth can eat up valuable time, so it pays to consider which pocket to base yourself in for exploring. The area around Mananthavadi in northern Wayanad puts you on the doorstep of Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary’s Tholpetty gate, as well as the calming Kabini River, and there are some lovely homestays to pick from. The Sultanbatheri area in eastern Wayanad is handy for the sanctuary’s Muthanga entrance and also has tempting homestays and guesthouses.

On Wayanad’s southern side, the Vythiri area is home to luxury resorts, scenic lakes and waterfall viewpoints, making it a popular weekend-escape destination.

EATING IN WAYANAD: OUR PICKS

Indian Coffee House: Fuss-free veg and non-veg bites at Mananthavadi’s split-level ICH, which does all the usual filter coffee, biryani, fish curries and dosas. 6am-10pm ₹

Aswathi Bhavan: Near the western raft jetty for Kuruva Island, this locally popular north-Wayanad spot serves Kerala-style sadya on banana leaves; advance booking only. 11am-4pm ₹

Wilton Restaurant: Conveniently located on Sultanbatheri’s western fringes. Multicuisine meals; tandoori chicken to spiced biryani to cakes and other baked goods. 7am-10pm ₹₹

Spice Stories

Step into Wayanad’s fragrant farms

As you spin through Wayanad’s hills, it’s impossible to miss the rolling crops of spices that dot the landscape. From fragrant cardamom to Wayanad’s famous black pepper, these farms continue a lively spice trade with centuries of history in Kerala. Many local homestays double as working spice farms, such as Varnam Homestay and Tranquil; you’ll probably taste their signature crops in home-cooked meals during your stay. The Blue Yonder runs half-day tours to meet small-scale spice planters across Wayanad, often ending with a communal lunch or a cooking class.

WAYANAD COFFEE

Kerala is one of India’s four main coffee-growing states, responsible for around a quarter of the country’s beans, and Wayanad ranks among the state’s most important coffee regions (along with Idukki and Malappuram).

Much like in Munnar, both coffee- and tea-planting were introduced here under British rule. Grown at cool altitudes of around 600m to 900m, Wayanad beans are almost always strong Robusta, with around 50,000 to 60,000 tonnes produced each year. Harvesting is still mostly done by hand, and many coffee plantations use organic farming methods.

OTHER WILDLIFE RESERVES NEARBY

It’s also possible to visit South India’s much-loved Nagarhole Tiger Reserve, across the border in neighbouring Karnataka, on a day trip from Wayanad, especially if you’re staying in northern Wayanad; Nagarhole’s Nanachi (west) gate is just 8km north of the Tholpetty entrance for Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary.

Places We Love to Stay

₹ Budget ₹₹ Midrange ₹₹₹ Top End

Kochi (Cochin)

Zostel ₹ Well-equipped four- and six-person dorms, private doubles, bright communal spaces, original murals and social vibes, in Fort Cochin.

Reds Residency ₹₹ Delightful Fort Cochin homestay with five hotel-smart rooms and lovingly prepared breakfasts; the owners have another guesthouse in Edakochi.

Beena Homestay ₹₹ Welcoming hosts, six fresh rooms, a friendly communal atmosphere and raved-about meals in Fort Cochin.

Delight Home Stay ₹₹ Charming whitewashed heritage home turned well-established six-room guesthouse, opposite the Parade Ground.

Raintree Lodge ₹₹ Restored, vine-covered 18th-century house in Fort Cochin’s heart; five rooms mix contemporary styling and heritage touches.

Green Woods Bethlehem ₹₹ Long-running, warmly welcoming, simple homestay rambling amid palm gardens, in southern Fort Cochin.

Old Harbour Hotel ₹₹₹ A 300-year-old, Dutch-Portuguese Fort Cochin building turned elegant escape; gorgeous gardens, fabulous Restaurant 1788 and pool.

Malabar House ₹₹₹ Fort Cochin’s original luxury-boutique retreat, set around a pool in a wandering 18th-century building with a prize-winning restaurant, Malabar Junction.

Fort House Hotel ₹₹₹ Waterfront haven amid tropical gardens, where contemporary Kerala design graces 16 rooms; wonderful Fort House Restaurant and Fort Ayurveda ayurvedic centre.

Forte Kochi ₹₹₹ Stylishly revamped mango-yellow 19th-century house with Portuguese-era origins, spread around a plant-filled pool courtyard.

Backwaters escapes.

Alappuzha (Alleppey)

Zostel ₹ Lively branch of popular India-wide chain, near Alleppey’s beach, with six-bed air-con dorms and private rooms.

Nanni Backpackers Hostel ₹ Colourful budget pick near the beach; mixed and women-only dorms, popular Coffee Time cafe, great canoe/kayak tours with Nanni Tours & Travels.

Malayalam ₹₹ Orchid gardens, lake views and traditional-style rooms at a charming family-owned guesthouse just north of town.

Backwater stays near Alleppey

Marari

Secret Beach Yoga Homestay ₹₹ Peaceful lagoon-side homestay run by a welcoming yoga and kalarippayat instructor who offers classes.

Marari Villas ₹₹₹ Gorgeous boutique-design serviced villas with private pools, Kerala-style meals and beachfront locations.

Marari Beach ₹₹₹ Serene, sustainability-driven resort where thatch-roof villas, a saltwater pool and an ayurvedic spa sit in tropical gardens.

A Beach Symphony ₹₹₹ Beachfront bliss: four independently designed Kerala-inspired cottages, yoga sessions and alfresco meals.

Kumarakom & Kottayam

Kumarakom Lake Resort ₹₹₹ Kerala-inspired architecture, tropical gardens and a lakefront setting make this palm-dotted beauty shine.

Taj Kumarakom ₹₹₹ A converted 19th-century bungalow anchors this serene retreat where lake-hugging grounds host 28 heritage-inspired rooms.

Munnar & Around

Green View Inn ₹ Popular, fresh budget guesthouse in Munnar town, by the switched-on team behind Munnar Trekking.

Rosegardens ₹₹ One of Kerala’s loveliest homestays: a century-old home with organic gardens, five cosy rooms, biogas plant and solar power.

Green Valley Vista ₹₹ Dramatic panoramas, trekking tips and modern rooms greet guests at this warm guesthouse south of Munnar.

Anna Homestay ₹₹ Colourful, homey guesthouse offering Kerala-style meals and yoga, near Anachal village, 12km southwest of Munnar.

Stay on a tea or cardamom estate See.

Kumily (Periyar Tiger Reserve)

Green View ₹₹ Long-running, welcoming Periyar favourite; balcony-equipped rooms, solar-heated water, cooking classes and lounge-y terraces.

Chrissie’s Hotel ₹₹ Vibrant murals adorn this stylish 15-room guesthouse, with yoga, a rooftop pool and popular Chrissie’s Cafe.

Spice Village ₹₹₹ Rolling grounds, smart thatch-roof cottages and local-sourced cooking at this gorgeous CGH Earth resort.

Varkala

Lost Traverse ₹ Vibrant, palm-shaded hostel near the helipad; air-conditioned dorms, private doubles, yoga and communal kitchen.

Kaiya House ₹₹ Beautifully original five-room guesthouse filled with art, antiques and embroidery, with a rooftop terrace, near the North Cliff.

InDa Hotel ₹₹ Just off the North Cliff, this popular guesthouse has boutique flair, stylish garden cottages and a peaceful cafe.

Mad About Coco ₹₹ Sunny North Cliff guesthouse with comfy rooms, solar-heated water, a boho-cool cafe and rooftop yoga.

Soul & Surf ₹₹₹ Boutique-flavoured guesthouse in a gorgeous South Cliff location; yoga, surfing and fabulous Soul Food Cafe.

Villa Jacaranda ₹₹₹ Beautiful four-room house amid lush gardens near the South Cliff; days start with home-cooked breakfasts.

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum)

Graceful Homestay ₹₹ Peaceful heritage homestay in leafy western Trivandrum; four fan-cooled rooms, lovely gardens and Kerala breakfasts.

Kovalam

Beach Hotel & Beach Hotel II ₹₹ Breezy sister properties with arty ochre-hued rooms on Lighthouse Beach; both have great restaurants.

Paradesh Inn ₹₹ Above Lighthouse Beach, this popular six-room guesthouse has Mediterranean-feel design, rooftop views and great breakfasts.

Maharaju Palace ₹₹ Peaceful guesthouse just back from Lighthouse Beach, with charmingly styled rooms overlooking gardens.

Leela ₹₹₹ One of Kerala’s most lauded five-star hotels sits high above Samudra and Hawa beaches; elegant luxury, clifftop infinity pool and textile-clad rooms.

Taj Green Cove ₹₹₹ Five-star Samudra Beach retreat amid palm-dotted gardens; thatched cottages; beautiful spa and wonderful dining, including waterfront Bait.

Kollam (Quilon)

Ashtamudi Villas ₹₹ Charming solar-powered cottages fronting Ashtamudi Lake; kayaks, yoga, home-cooked meals, palm-dotted gardens and swaying hammocks.

Munroe Island.

Kannur

Kannur Beach House ₹₹ Soothing, long-established Thottada Beach homestay, with rustic rooms, Kannur-made linens and seasonal Malabar-style meals.

Costa Malabari ₹₹ Kannur’s original guesthouse offers homestay-style rooms, home-cooked meals and theyyam expertise, just inland from Thottada’s sands.

Blue Mermaid Homestay ₹₹ Charming modern-touch homestay set among tropical gardens opening up to Thottada Beach, with garden-fresh cooking.

Bekal & Valiyaparamba

Neeleshwar Hermitage ₹₹₹ Fabulous, sustainability-driven beachfront resort inspired by Kerala Vastu architecture, with ayurveda, yoga, Malabar cooking and ocean-view pool.

Poothali Homestay ₹₹₹ Beautiful, sustainably run Kerala-style home near Nileshwar Beach, offering Malabar meals, modern-feel rooms and culture-rich tours.

Valiyaparamba backwaters.

Wayanad

Varnam Homestay ₹₹ A star among Kerala’s homestays, set on a 50-year-old spice plantation with homegrown meals, a forest-view pool and cosy rooms.

Jungle Retreat Wayanad ₹₹ Wayanad settings don’t get better than this rustic-vibe spot bordering the wildlife sanctuary, with treehouses and cottages.

Ente Veedu ₹₹ A 150-year-old coffee estate hosts this charming, unfussy seven-room homestay near Mananthavadi.

Tranquil ₹₹₹ Century-old, family-owned coffee-and-spice estate turned elegant retreat, near Sultanbatheri, with custom-designed treehouses and farm-to-table meals; also runs serene Amaryllis.

Tamil Nadu

TEMPLES, CULTURE AND THE BLUE MOUNTAINS

Welcome to India’s cradle of art and heritage: a land of ancient dynasties, magnificent temples, terraced tea mountains and picturesque hill stations.

PRASANTH_K_RAJ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Once the homeland of one of humanity’s oldest living civilisations, Tamil Nadu’s history continues to dance through its language, art, religion and temples. From the misty mountains of the Western Ghats to the sun-drenched Coromandel Coast, Tamil Nadu boasts an incredible diversity, where urban vibrance and bucolic tranquillity blend ever so seamlessly.

The essence of Tamil Nadu is etched in the grand stone carvings of Mamallapuram and the soaring gopurams (towers) of Thanjavur and Madurai, standing as testaments to the architectural genius of the great Pallava and Chola dynasties. The promotion of art and culture was integral to the kings, shaping a legacy that resonates in the rhythmic beats of bharatanatyam (Tamil classical dance) and the devout chants that permeate temple corridors today.

Venture beyond the temple towns and you’ll find serenity in the backwaters, seaside colonial-era towns and its southernmost tip. If you want to experience the state’s diverse landscape, take to the Blue Mountains, where nature walks and wildlife safaris get you well acquainted with the terrain. Cloaked in native shola forests and endangered wildlife sightings, they invite you to escape the overwhelming heat that plagues the temple towns and coastal cities.

In Tamil Nadu, every corner offers a story, painting a picture of a land where the past is not just remembered but continues to live on.

Meenakshi Amman Temple | GNANISTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE MAIN AREAS

CHENNAI

Art and street food.

MAMALLAPURAM

Beaches and ancient bas-reliefs.

PUDUCHERRY (PONDICHERRY)

Franco-Indian history.

THANJAVUR

Land of temples.

MADURAI

Pilgrimage epicentre and home of kari dosa.

COONOOR

Lush trails and biodiversity.

OOTY

Mountain views and tea.

Find Your Way

Spanning India’s southern tip, Tamil Nadu is a land of ancient history and diverse landscapes. We’ve picked places that embody the state’s richness and serve as gateways to uncovering your own Tamil Nadu.

Plan Your Days

A visit to the coast is a must, but also spend a couple of days on Tamil Nadu’s temple trail. Alternatively, head to the Nilgiris for tea and wildlife at the Mudumalai Tiger Reserve.

Meenakshi Amman Temple | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

If You Have a Long Weekend

• Choose between Madurai, with its centuries-old Meenakshi Amman Temple and surrounding bazaars, or the architectural grandeur and wonderful frescoes of Thanjavur’s Brihadishwara Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In Madurai, experience the nightly temple rituals, a blend of devotion and cultural festivity. A hike in the Samanar Hills outside the city limits takes you to 9th-century Jain reliefs carved into the rocky landscape.

• Meanwhile, Tamil Nadu’s royal history erupts in Thanjavur as you explore the sprawling Royal Palace Complex, including Maratha king Raja Serfoji II’s sizeable collection of literature at the Saraswathi Mahal Library Museum.

Four Days to Travel Around

• Base yourself in Puducherry, strolling the picturesque streets and sampling delicious Creole cuisine at Maison Perumal. Allocate a day trip to Auroville to explore an experimental universal commune and its glimmering Matrimandir. Conclude your evenings with leisurely nightly walks along Goubert Avenue, savouring the fusion of French and Indian culture that defines this Union Territory.

• Venture north to the temple shores of Mamallapuram, absorbing centuries-old Pallava art and architecture. A visit to the Seashell Museum’s extensive collection of seashells from around the world provides a fascinating insight into marine biodiversity and the artistry of nature.

More Than a Week

• Begin in the capital Chennai to experience the metropolitan buzz and Marina beachfront. Head south to explore the temple towns of Kanchipuram and Madurai, each with their own unique history and spiritual significance.

• Relax in the hill stations of Ooty and Coonoor, enjoying the cooler climate, nature walks in the Nilgiris and sampling aromatic artisanal tea.

• Conclude your journey in Kanyakumari, where the three seas meet, offering a moment of reflection at India’s southernmost point. Along the way, indulge in Tamil Nadu’s bold flavours, from street food in Madurai to the seafood delicacies of the coastal regions.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

Tamil Nadu’s climate varies from hot and humid summers to mild winters. The Nilgiris offer moderate summers and cold, rainy winters. June to September is monsoon.

JANUARY

Celebrate Pongal, the harvest festival, with colourful kolams, temple visits and delicious thalis that include sweet pongal (rice pudding).

FEBRUARY

Attend the Natyanjali Dance Festival, where classical dancers perform dances in honour of Nataraja, the cosmic dancer.

APRIL

Witness the Chithirai Festival in Madurai, a vibrant procession celebrating the celestial wedding of goddess Meenakshi to Sundareswarar (Shiva).

MAY

Visit the Ooty Flower Show to see a stunning display of flowers and landscaped gardens in the Botanical Gardens.

JUNE

Explore Mudumalai National Park; the pre-monsoon period is ideal for spotting tigers and other wildlife like wild boars and elephants.

NOVEMBER

Witness Karthigai Deepam in Tiruvannamalai, where a giant lamp is lit on the hill, visible for miles.

DECEMBER

Enjoy the festive Advent season in Puducherry, with Christmas markets, midnight masses and French-inspired celebrations.

Chennai

BEACH STROLLS | CUTTING-EDGE CULTURE | SHOPPING SPREES

It’s easy to write Chennai off; the sweltering summers, notoriously bad traffic and lack of sights compared to India’s other capital cities make leaving it off your itinerary a simple choice. But you shouldn’t.

Spend a day savouring South Indian specialities, sipping your way through the city’s burgeoning coffee scene, exploring ancient temples and immersing in all the art will leave you pleasantly surprised. Spanning 400 sq km, Chennai – known as Madras until 1996 – offers a stunning dichotomy of small-town charm and urban sprawl. You can enjoy a tranquil walk along the sun-kissed sands of Marina Beach, the world’s second-longest urban stretch of sand, before spending the evening exploring the city’s thrilling shopping scene. Today, the true essence of Tamil Nadu’s capital lies in its welcoming locals and the seamless blend of luxury and tradition, from opulent hotels to trendy boutiques to old neighbourhoods and even older monuments. Its old soul, however, remains.

GETTING AROUND

Navigating Chennai is an experience. Its infamous traffic can make driving a challenge, so plan ahead. The metro is a cheap and easy way to get from the airport to some areas of the city for ₹100 or less. Chennai’s bus system is extensive and fares are cheap, but it tends to be packed at peak times. Ola and Uber are popular choices, especially when arriving at the airport. Chennai’s roadways are sadly not made for walking and most sights are spread out; it’s best to hire an autorickshaw or car for the day when exploring the city.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Government Museum

2   Kapaleeshwarar Temple

3   Marina Beach

SIGHTS

4   Armenian Church

5   Fort Museum

6   Fort St George

7   Madras Lighthouse

8   St Thome Cathedral

9   St Andrew’s Church

10   St Mary’s Church

Tomb of St Thomas the Apostle (see 8)

11   Valluvar Kottam

12   Yogoda Satsanga Dhyana Kendra

SLEEPING

13   Hotel Ranjith

14   Taj Connemara

15   Taj Coromandel

EATING

16   Basil With a Twist

17   Rayars Mess

Southern Spice (see 15)

18   Wild Garden Cafe

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

19   Davrah Coffee

Lady Connemara Bar (see 14)

20   Radio Room

SHOPPING

21   Amethyst

22   Anokhi

23   Fabindia

24   Good Earth

25   Higginbothams

26   Nalli Silks

INFORMATION

27   Milesworth Travel

TRANSPORT

28   Egmore Station

TOP TIP

Chennai’s heat and humidity can be intense, particularly from March to June. Plan outdoor activities for early in the morning or late evening to avoid the peak heat.

Museum of Memories

Dive into history at the Government Museum

Spread across 6.5 hectares, Chennai’s Government Museum is a treasure trove of South Indian history and art. This cultural powerhouse, one of the oldest in India, allows you to traverse the corridors of time with an eclectic collection spanning art, archaeology and anthropology.

The museum’s main draw is the Bronze Gallery (building 3), which houses an extensive collection of South Indian bronzes from the 7th-century CE Pallava period to contemporary times. The creation of bronze sculptures in the Chola period reached its peak between the 9th and 11th centuries. You’ll see exquisite pieces from this time on display, including many of Shiva as Nataraja, the cosmic dancer, and a 10th-century Ardhanarishvara, an androgynous incarnation of Shiva and Parvati.

The main Archaeological Galleries (building 1) take you on a journey of South Indian history with ancient artefacts from 2nd-century BC to 16th-century Vijayanagar art, encompassing Hindu, Buddhist and Jain traditions. The Anthropology Galleries (building 2) feature exhibits that trace the history of people in South India to prehistoric times. You’ll find Indigenous relics from across the state. There’s also an extensive collection of Tanjore and Raja Ravi Varma paintings in the National Art Gallery and Contemporary Art Gallery. The Government Museum in Chennai is closed on Fridays; show up right when it opens at 9.30am to avoid the hordes of school children on field trips. Dedicate a morning or an afternoon to fully absorb everything that the museum has to offer.

Government Museum | ANDREA CHIOZZI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Marina Beach Bliss

Experience the essence of coastal Chennai

A favourite among locals and travellers alike, Marina Beach serves as a picturesque escape from Chennai’s bustling metropolis. This refreshing 3km stretch of coast is best experienced early in the morning or in the evening at sunset – you’ll end up roasting if you head there in the middle of the day. While the strong rip tides make swimming dangerous, the beach offers plenty more: it’s a vibrant tableau of fitness enthusiasts, kite flyers, fish markets, street food stalls and families enjoying the refreshing Bay of Bengal breeze.

Chennai’s iconic red-and-white Madras Lighthouse is located at the southern end of Marina Beach. As the country’s only lighthouse with a lift, a visit to this architectural beacon guarantees panoramic views of the city and the Coromandel Coast.

Marina Beach | BALAJISRINIVASAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CHENNAI’S BEST WALKING TOURS

Madras Inherited (madrasinherited.in) Choose from 28 heritage- and culture-focused tours that give you insight into different facets of Chennai.

Storytrails (storytrails-walks.in) Themed walking tours showcasing bazaars, temples and jewellery. There’s also an immersive street-food tour.

5 Senses Tour (5sensestours.com) This Kollywood tour offers a behind-the-scenes look at the Tamil film industry, including the city’s most famous film studios.

Chennai Magic (chennaimagic.com) Women-led tours that take you to some of the oldest neighbourhoods, including Mylapore and George Town.

Chennai Photo Walk (@thechennaiphotowalk on Insta) Free walks by local photographers. Their Instagram, lets you know the upcoming dates and locations.

Tamil Tastes

Sample Chennai’s ‘mess’ and food culture

Chennai’s culinary scene celebrates food in all its forms, promising a delightful taste of the local fare whether you’re a first-time or seasoned visitor. While Tamil heritage forms the backbone of Chennai’s cuisine – think rice, lentils, coconut, tamarind and curry leaves – the city’s history as a major port and trade hub has welcomed various cultures from the colonial-era British and Portuguese to the sizeable Telugu, Malayali and Anglo-Indian communities today, each leaving a unique mark on the city’s food traditions.

Telugu cuisine, particularly known for its spiciness, showcases dishes like Andhra chicken curry and gongura pachadi (sorrel leaf chutney), while Malayali cuisine offers appams (rice pancakes) and Malabar parottas (flatbread) with hearty, often coconut-based meat curries. Dishes like mulligatawny soup and cutlets trace their origins to the British Raj, blending Indian spices with European techniques.

From bustling street vendors to upscale restaurants, the city caters to all palates. Begin your gastronomic journey with a visit to one of the many ‘messes’ around the city, where you can indulge in all-you-can-eat thalis at lunch or dinner. Often family-run, these messes provide hearty, home-cooked meals in a no-frills setting, embodying the essence of Tamil hospitality. Morning or afternoon snacks, locally known as tiffin, include must-try items like idli (rice cakes), vada (fritters) and dosa.

For a taste of Chennai’s Muslim culinary influence, head to Triplicane High Road (a few streets back from Marina beach) for some of the city’s best biryanis. Characterised by their aromatic spices and tender meat, these biryanis often feature marinated chicken or mutton that’s been slow-cooked to perfection. The use of saffron, ghee and a unique blend of spices distinguishes them from other local fare.

TOP STATE FESTIVALS

International Yoga Festival: Expect workshops, competitions and yoga sessions by teachers and gurus (Puducherry; January).

Pongal: One of Tamil Nadu’s most important festivals marking the end of harvest season (statewide; mid-January).

Teppam Festival: An elaborate procession at Meenakshi Amman Temple where the deities are paraded around town (Madurai; January/February).

Chithirai Festival: This two-week-long festival celebrates the marriage of Sundareswarar (Shiva) to Meenakshi (Madurai; April/May).

Avanimoolam Festival: Celebrating the coronation of Sundareswarar with a daily lila or play by temple priests who recite 64 stories (Madurai; August/September).

Karthikai Deepam Festival: Festival of lights best seen in Tiruvannamalai, where the legend originates (statewide; November/December).

Divine Discoveries

Exploring Chennai’s Christian monuments

Dive into Chennai’s Christian heritage with a self-guided tour of its churches and cathedrals. These sites serve not only as places of worship but as repositories of the area’s history and art, reflecting centuries of religious and cultural intermingling.

Situated a few minutes from the beach, San Thome Cathedral houses the tomb of St Thomas the Apostle. Originally built in 1523 by the Portuguese, it was later rebuilt by the British in 1896 in its current iconic neo-Gothic style. It is thought that ‘Doubting Thomas’ brought Christianity to the region in 52 CE before being killed at St Thomas Mount in the year 72. The church atop the mount in southwest Chennai, known as the Church of Our Lady of Expectation, houses what is believed to be a fragment of Thomas’ finger bone and a carving of the ‘Bleeding Cross’. A visit here also provides some of the best viewpoints in the city, including planes taking off and landing at the airport.

The 18th-century Armenian Church, located in George Town, narrates the tale of Chennai’s once-thriving Armenian merchant community. Architecture lovers cannot miss the neoclassical wonder St Andrew’s Church in Egmore. This stunning Scottish Presbyterian church, built in 1821, with its striking Corinthian columned portico, was modeledl after St Martin-in-the-Fields in London.

A Literary Honour

Admire Tamil poet Thiruvalluvar’s memorial

Honouring celebrated Tamil poet Thiruvalluvar, Valluvar Kottam is a rather serene sight right in the centre of Chennai’s bustling Nungambakkam neighbourhood. Built in 1976, the memorial stands as a grand tribute to one of Thiruvalluvar’s timeless works, the 133-chapter Kural.

Dominating the complex is a striking 31m-high replica of a stone chariot. It’s modelled after Tamil Nadu’s largest temple chariot from Thiruvarur. Two majestic stone elephants pull its giant wheels. An auditorium adjacent to the chariot houses a series of ornately carved granite tablets inscribed with all 1330 couplets of the Kural. Head to the roof for a panoramic view of the site, including a closer examination of the intricate details of the chariot’s dome, beneath which a life-size statue of Thiruvalluvar sits – the statue’s three pointed fingers represent the three divisions of Thiruvalluvar’s influential text.

CHENNAI’S OLDEST HOTEL

Steeped in history, the landmark Taj Connemara hotel has many past lives worth exploring. The building originally housed the Nawab of Carnatic’s surgeon, John Binny, before becoming a guesthouse. By 1854 it was the Imperial Hotel run by T Ruth-navaloo Mudaliar. It was renamed the Connemara in 1891 and eventually taken over by the pioneering retail chain Spencer & Co. Today, memories of the property’s grand past remain in the centuries-old photographs and drawings that line its walls. Sit down for a Madras No. 1 at Lady Connemara Bar, the city’s first licensed bar, to truly take in all its history.

EATING IN CHENNAI: OUR PICKS

Basil With a Twist: Serving good European food for over a decade. The beef tenderloin simmered for hours is a speciality. noon-11pm ₹₹

Wild Garden Cafe: An oasis of calm awaits at this quaint, artsy garden cafe. Don’t skip a slice of freshly baked cake. 10am-11.30pm ₹₹

The Farm: Wood-fired pizzas and fresh cheese at this dairy farm-to-table restaurant make the hour’s drive south well worth it. 11am-6pm Tue-Sun ₹₹₹

Southern Spice: Embark on a culinary journey across South India at this award-winning restaurant with heritage interiors. 12.30-2.45pm & 7-11pm ₹₹₹

DRIVING TOUR

Artistic Drive Across Chennai

Chennai’s often underrated arts scene thrives with traditional and contemporary influences, featuring classical dance, active galleries and dynamic theatrical performances. A driving tour to some of its more popular artistic institutions is the perfect way to understand the city’s dynamic arts scene, from the ever-changing exhibits at Artworld, a cornerstone of contemporary Indian art, to the immersive living history displays of South Indian culture at the DakshinaChitra Museum.

1 Artworld

Begin your artistic drive in the heart of Chennai at Artworld – Sarala’s Art Centre, an artistic institution in the city originally founded by Soli Daruwala in 1965. The gallery initially served as a meeting place for post-Independence artists living and working in South India, championing modern art at a time when the concept of creating and even buying contemporary art was still alien to local residents. Today, it’s run by his daughter, Sarala, and her husband.

The Drive: A 15-minute drive east takes you from Chennai’s busy commercial district through Adyar and to the leafy grounds of the Kalakshetra Foundation.

2 Kalakshetra Foundation

The Kalakshetra Foundation is an emblem of classical Tamil dance and music heritage. Here, you can wander the shaded campus and quietly observe the morning’s bharatanatyam dance rehearsals and Carnatic music training. Walk across the street to the Kalakshetra Craft Centre, where you’ll get a deep dive into the Kanchipuram-style handloom weaving and the art of hand block printing. In addition to intensive month-long workshops, the centre also offers a four-hour woodblock printing and kalamkari – hand-painting fabrics using vegetable dyes – workshop for visitors.

The Drive: Take a left on Anna St followed by a right on N Mada St. The next left takes you to the East Coast Rd (ECR) where you’ll journey 9km south and enjoy coastal views.

3 Cholamandal Artists’ Village

A scenic drive south along the ECR takes you to the Cholamandal Artists’ Village in Injambakkam – its name is a portmanteau of the ancient Chola dynasty, which was known to champion and heavily promote all things arts and culture, and the Coromandel Coast along which the village lies. This 4-hectare artists’ cooperative was started in 1966 by the Madras Movement, pioneers of South Indian modern art. It’s a unique blend of tradition and postmodernity, featuring evocative paintings and sculptures.

The Drive: Head northwest towards Harichandra St and make a left. Take the next right onto Ambedkar St, and the following left for the ECR. It’s a 20-minute drive south.

4 DakshinaChitra Museum

Further south along the ECR leads you to a treasure chest for South Indian art and culture: the DakshinaChitra Museum and your final stop on this artistically inclined drive of Chennai. Spread across 4 hectares, this living history museum expertly melds art, architecture and heritage. Spend time taking it all in; there are reconstructed South Indian homes, a preserved village, art galleries and several artisan-led workshops in pottery, silk weaving and basket-making to explore in this sprawling open-air museum.

DakshinaChitra Museum | RAJA MANNAR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A Shopper’s Paradise

Embark on a shopping spree in Chennai

Chennai’s shopping scene, a vibrant mix of traditional and modern, offers everything from exquisite Kanchipuram silk saris at Nalli Silks to international brands like Marks & Spencer, Adidas and Sephora at the sprawling Phoenix Market City shopping mall. Tara Books, a popular local publishing company, beckons book lovers with its visually stunning handmade books and author talks, while Higginbothams in Anna Salai has been open since 1844 and is often touted as India’s oldest-running bookshop.

An expertly curated selection of Indian couture and accessories awaits inside Amethyst, housed in a revamped warehouse in Royapettah – its ground-floor cafe is an insanely popular local spot. For stunning Aari embroidered shoes, home goods and jewellery – they make great one-of-a-kind souvenirs – check out Julia & Sita (https://juliaandsita.com), a Chennai-based atelier run by two design-savvy sisters. Anokhi, Good Earth and Fabindia are all Indian chains that curate a range of fair-trade, eco-friendly and artisanal products. Allocate a full day to shop.

TOP ART & CULTURE FESTIVALS

Thyagaraja Aradhana: Honouring the sage and legendary composer Thyagaraja, this five-day festival celebrates Carnatic music (Thiruvaiyaru; January).

Natyanjali Dance Festival: Five-day dance festival featuring classical dance forms such as bharatanatyam, mohiniyattam, kathak and more (Chidambaram; February).

Chennai Festival of Music & Dance: Celebrating South Indian music and dance, this is one of the largest festivals of its type globally (Chennai; mid-December to mid-January).

Mamallapuram Dance Festival: Pan-Indian classical and folk dance performances on an open-air stage (Mamallapuram; December to January).

Kalakshetra Foundation Annual Arts Festival: Held every fourth week in December, this festival celebrates Tamil classical dance and music with daily performances (Chennai; December to January).

Bastion of the Past

Discover the British influence in Chennai

Finished by the British East India Company in 1653, Fort St George showcases the long history of British colonialism in Chennai and beyond, well deserving of a visit. Within its imposing walls lie the Tamil Nadu Legislative Assembly and other official buildings, as well as St Mary’s Church, the city’s oldest surviving British-era building. The Fort Museum houses many relics from the period, including a particularly stunning collection of British Raj–era paintings. Don’t miss the exhibit dedicated to the first-ever flown National Flag of India that’s on display on the 3rd floor.

St Mary’s Church | SAM DCRUZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Eternal Faith

Encounter the divine in the heart of Mylapore

As one of Chennai’s oldest neighbourhoods, Mylapore abounds with gems. Its brightest and most colourful, is Kapaleeshwarar Temple, a masterpiece of Dravidian architecture, embodying centuries of spiritual and architectural history. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple is known for its towering and intricately carved, rainbow-coloured gopuram and pillared mandapas (pavilions). It also houses one of the city’s largest temple tanks. Legend has it that Parvati was turned into a peacock by Shiva in a bout of anger, and this location (Mylapore means town of peacocks) is where she was asked to worship him in order to regain her original form – you’ll find this saga artistically depicted on the western facade of the temple’s inner courtyard.

COFFEE CULTURE

Viggnesh V, founder of Madras Coffee Movement, shares his favourite spots for coffee in the city. Instagram: @madrascoffeemovement

India’s interest in speciality coffee is soaring compared to a decade ago when bean-to-cup transparency was nothing but a vague notion. The desire to bridge the gap between coffee farmers and the public is how Madras Coffee Movement came to be. Our coffee-tasting sessions focus on speciality coffee grown in Tamil Nadu; people can’t believe Indian coffee is this good. Davrah Coffee in Alwarpet is the place to go if you’re looking to try new-age South Indian filter coffee that’s just pure coffee with zero adulterants. Another must-visit is the iconic Rayars Mess in Mylapore for its filter coffee and South Indian treats.

DRINKING IN CHENNAI: OUR PICKS

Radio Room: Inventive cocktails and food at this radio-themed hotspot in southeast Chennai. noon-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat

Monkey Bar: Chef Manu Chandra’s popular gastro-pub chain, known for creative cocktail twists like tomato rasam bloody mary. noon-11pm Mon-Sat

Bay 6: Sip on chilled beers and cocktails at this popular beachfront lounge along the ECR. 11am-11pm

Lady Connemara Bar: Chennai’s first licensed bar is an elegant choice whether you’re looking for expertly crafted cocktails or afternoon tea. 3-10pm

DRIVING TOUR

Chennai’s Spiritual Trail

Escaping Chennai’s frenetic pace doesn’t need to involve a getaway; several serene and sacred sites throughout the city offer visitors and locals a retreat from city life. Not only are they perfect for introspection and connection with nature, but they also foster quiet reflection and a deeper understanding of local cultural and religious practices, enriching your visit with spiritual insight right in the heart of the city.

1 Vivekananda House

Set across from Marina Beach, the pastel pink facade of Vivekananda House welcomes spiritual seekers from all around the world to learn about Swami Vivekananda and his teachings. Permanent exhibitions include a 3D reproduction of his famous speech at the World’s Parliament of Religions in Chicago in 1893. The history surrounding this striking 19th-century building also serves as an unlikely draw – Boston’s famed ‘Ice King’, Frederic Tudor, originally built it in 1842 to store ice imported from the USA.

The Drive: Travel west from Vivekananda House on a short 17-minute drive through the colourful neighbourhood of Mylapore. You’ll also catch glimpses of the iconic towering spire of St George’s Cathedral.

2 Yogoda Satsanga Dhyana Kendra

Founded by Sri Sri Paramahansa Yogananda in 1917, the Yogoda Satsanga Dhyana Kendra is a sanctuary dedicated to Kriya yoga. This peaceful retreat welcomes practitioners of all levels, offering daily meditation sessions and Kriya yoga lessons. Beginners can join introductory classes to learn the fundamentals, while advanced practitioners deepen their practice through a series of specialised workshops. Additionally, there’s a tranquil retreat centre 40km west of the city, providing an ideal setting for extended meditation retreats.

The Drive: Head east from Yogoda Satsanga Dhyana Kendra towards Mylapore, passing by the huge Kapaleeshwarar Temple tank. In about 15 minutes, you’ll reach Sri Ramakrishna Math.

3 Sri Ramakrishna Math

Nestled in the centre of Mylapore – one of Chennai’s oldest neighbourhoods, predating colonial-era Madras by several centuries – the Sri Ramakrishna Math is a monastic order dedicated to the teachings of the 19th-century saint Sri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa. His central tenet, the essential unity of all religions, makes the Math a welcoming spiritual oasis open to everyone seeking a space to pray or meditate. Visitors can engage in meditation sessions, attend spiritual talks or simply enjoy the calmness of its lush gardens.

The Drive: A 13-minute drive south takes you across the banks of the Adyar River to your final driving tour stop, the Theosophical Society. It’s a relatively peaceful drive, setting the tone of tranquillity at your final destination.

Sri Ramakrishna Math | JAYAKUMAR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 Theosophical Society

Set along the banks of the Adyar River and the coast, the Theosophical Society’s pedestrian-only grounds contain a Hindu temple, Buddhist shrine, mosque, church and Zoroastrian temple, extending tolerance to all who choose to visit – its opening hours tend to be restricted, so check before you go. The society’s 100 hectares of green space also function as a ‘green lung’ for the city, thanks to its diverse selection of flora, including the offshoots of a 450-year-old banyan tree.

EXPLORING GEORGE TOWN ON FOOT

Discover Chennai’s oldest neighbourhood, George Town (or Muthialpet), and delve into its colonial-era history with this walking tour. Start at the formidable 1 Fort St George, the first British fortress in India, built from 1640 to 1653. Inside, the Fort Museum contains a vast collection of military memorabilia and colonial-era artefacts depicting the role of Madras as an important naval and commercial centre during British rule and after Independence. A four-minute walk west takes you to 2 St Mary’s Church, the city’s oldest Anglican church, renowned for its beautiful altar. Tombs here bear witness to the lives of high-ranking British officials and their families in India. Exiting the fort, your path leads into the bustling heart of George Town, where the 3 Old Lighthouse stands as a historic beacon that once guided ships to the Madras Port. An 11-minute walk north along N Fort Rd takes you to 4 Dare House #234, an iconic art deco building. It once housed the headquarters of one of the city’s oldest businesses, Parry & Dare. Just a few blocks west along NSC Bose Rd, you’ll find the serene 5 Armenian Church. This 18th-century building features beautifully carved tombstones of Armenian merchants who once thrived in this city by selling spices, fine silks and precious stones. A 13-minute walk south takes you to your final stop: the 6 Madras High Court. This exquisite example of Indo-Saracenic architecture, complete with towering domes and stained-glass windows, is one of India’s oldest high courts.

Beyond Chennai

Just 30km south of Chennai are Kovalam’s thrilling waters and one of Tamil Nadu’s best spots to learn how to surf.

A scenic hour’s drive south along the East Coast Road (ECR) swaps out Chennai’s urban sprawl for fields of green and glimpses of waves rhythmically breaking against the Coromandel Coast. Your final destination? A quaint fishing village that has slowly transformed into a surf spot over the past decade – the swells here are some of Tamil Nadu’s best. This picturesque coastal destination is an unrivalled blend of relaxation and adventure, with sandy shores, surf schools and the historical remnants of a Dutch fort (now a luxury Taj-group-run resort). Whether you try your hand at water sports, explore the area’s cultural heritage or simply soak up the South Indian sun, Kovalam presents a seaside getaway juxtaposed against the urban backdrop of Chennai.

GETTING AROUND

Kovalam is easily accessible from Chennai by hired taxi or bus. Frequent buses headed to Mamallapuram from Chennai will drop you off at the Kovalam stop along the ECR. Taxis to/from Chennai or Mamallapuram cost approximately ₹1000 to Kovalam. Once there, it’s best to explore on foot or by auto. Renting a scooter can be a convenient option for visits to surrounding areas, offering the chance to enjoy the coastal scene at your own pace.

Kovalam TIME FROM CHENNAI: 1¼ HRS

Take a beginner’s surfing lesson

An emerging destination for surfing enthusiasts in Tamil Nadu, Kovalam is the ideal spot to learn how to master the swells. The consistent sea breezes and breaks create the ideal conditions for surfing throughout the year. Not only does it boast some of Tamil Nadu’s best waves, but Kovalam’s surf scene is also friendly and chill towards beginners and seasoned pros alike. Leading the charge is Surf Turf, a surf school and B&B guesthouse with a beautiful beachfront location. Choose from professional lessons (₹1900 for a 90-minute introductory lesson; ₹1250 for a regular class) that begin at 7am. If you want to sleep in, you can catch the second surf at 1.30pm – or hourly surfboard, kayak and stand-up paddleboard rentals.

Murthy Surf School, led by its namesake and Kovalam surfing legend Murthy Megavan, is another great option for learning how to ride the waves (₹1500 for a 90-minute session). Beyond the surf, the laid-back vibe of the beaches, coupled with the warm hospitality of the local community, makes for a memorable experience.

On the seafood trail

Seafood is the staple along the ECR, thanks to its close proximity to the Bay of Bengal. Before dawn, you’ll spot fishers pushing their boats out of the sand into the sea. By mid-morning, they’ve returned to land, gathering and drying their nets on the sandy shores. Naturally, this coastal stretch, from Chennai down to Puducherry, boasts some of the best restaurants serving the local fishers’ fresh catches of the day, including jumbo prawns, crabs and a diverse selection of fish that includes kingfish, barramundi and sardines. The area’s popularity stems not only from the freshness of its seafood but also from the variety of dishes that highlight the region’s diverse culinary heritage. The seafood restaurant Bayview at the Taj Fisherman’s Cove Resort serves up some of the area’s best, including a Kovalam fish curry with red chillis, shallots and garlic. Another coastal speciality is the manga charu, or raw mango stewed in a coconut milk gravy – try it with freshly caught prawns and a side of steamed ponni rice.

Chennai coast from Taj Fisherman’s Cove Resort | DEBRAJ S DAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SURFING IN INDIA 101

Evoking images of shimmering waters and adventurous days, Tamil Nadu’s coast is a haven for surfers year-round. Idyllic coastal towns and villages dotting the Coromandel Coast, like Kovalam and Mahabs, are well known for consistent breaks that suit all skill levels. Experienced surfers should visit before and after the monsoon season (May to October) for endless high-quality waves. Pack the essentials: a rash guard to protect against the sun and abrasions, and reef-friendly sunscreen. Hourly surfboard rentals begin at ₹400. Remain vigilant for strong currents and respect local surfing etiquette. Check with local surf schools or seasoned surfers for daily conditions, as they vary significantly with weather changes. Bring your own repair kit; an extra leash can prove handy.

Mamallapuram

ROCK-CARVED TEMPLES | BEACHFRONT SERENITY | PALLAVA ARCHITECTURE

Nestled along the Coromandel Coast, Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) is a historic town that whispers tales of the Pallava dynasty’s grandeur. Established as the thriving seaport of the Pallava kings in the 7th and 8th centuries, Mahabalipuram, or Mahabs as locals often call it, became a canvas for their architectural and sculptural mastery. These remarkable stone carvings, temples and open-air bas-reliefs are now UNESCO World Heritage–listed monuments and offer a stunning glimpse into the region’s rich past, where religion, mythology and daily life seamlessly intertwine.

Today, local artisans continue to sculpt and carry on the enduring craftsmanship of Pallava artistry, allowing you the chance to take a piece of history home. Beyond its ancient treasures, Mamallapuram is a haven of calm, where the rhythm of the ocean guides the pace of life. Its golden beaches, laid-back cafes that dot Othavadai and Othavadai Cross Sts, and rejuvenating resorts provide the ultimate setting for chilling out after a day of heavy cultural immersion.

GETTING AROUND

Navigating Mahabs is a breeze, whether by autorickshaw or on foot. Its main attractions are clustered together and easily walkable; expect a few hills and steep steps to reach the sights around Mamallapuram Hill. Consider hiring an auto or car for the day in the warmer months; not only for a respite from the heat, but you can also cover more ground, especially when venturing to slightly more remote beaches or sights like the Tiger Cave or Seashell Museum.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Arjuna’s Penance

2   Trimurti Cave Temple

SIGHTS

3   Five Rathas

4   India Seashell Museum

5   Krishna Mandapa

6   Krishna’s Butterball

7   Lighthouse

8   Olakkannesvara Temple

9   Shore Temple

10   Varaha Mandapa

ACTIVITIES

11   Mumu Surf School

SLEEPING

12   Grande Bay Resort & Spa

13   Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay

EATING

14   Joe’s Cafe

15   L’attitude 49

16   Le Yogi

17   Wharf 2.0

SHOPPING

18   Apollo Books

19   Maharani Boutique

20   Mayan Handicrafts

TOP TIP

Most tour buses arrive in Mamallapuram by 10am, so head to the sights earlier (the main group of monuments is open 6am to 6pm) to skip the crowds as well as the stifling heat.

Shells of the Sea

Dive into the world’s oceanic treasures

A five-minute walk from the Five Rathas (temples) lies an often overlooked marvel, the India Seashell Museum (indiaseashellmuseum.in). Born from single collector Raja Mohamed’s passion, this unique collection of over 40,000 specimens now stands as one of the most extensive seashell repositories collected from waters around the world. From the world’s largest Australian trumpets to the eye-catching mother-of-pearl oysters, each shell tells a story of oceanic journeys and the remarkable diversity hidden beneath the waves. The museum also explores Mamallapuram’s ancient maritime history and the importance of seashells in sea trade throughout the centuries.

Beacon of the Bay

Illuminate Mamallapuram’s seafaring history

Perched on the coast amidst ancient carvings and temples, Mamallapuram’s lighthouse stands tall as a modern symbol of the town’s enduring connection to the sea. Guiding vessels through the Bay of Bengal’s treacherous waters since 1900, the lighthouse provides visitors with a comprehensive look at Mamallapuram’s rich history, from its days as a significant port in the Pallava kingdom – India’s oldest lighthouse, Olakkannesvara Temple lies right next to it – to its current status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ascend the spiral staircase and you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views that seamlessly blend old with new: timeless shore temples on one side and the expansive ocean on the other.

Rhythms of the Mahabs Shoreline

Surf, sand and serenity combined

Besides being an enthralling destination on Tamil Nadu’s rich heritage trail, Mamallapuram’s ideal location on the Bay of Bengal has turned it into a budding surf and water-sports destination in recent years. Highly rated is Mumu Surf School (mumusurfindia.com), offering personalised lessons for beginners and all-day board rentals for seasoned surfers. Beyond the thrill of learning how to be one with the ocean, Mahabalipuram’s stretches of sandy shores also offer peaceful moments for contemplation and connection with nature after a day spent on the water or exploring the stone monuments.

Heritage & Handlooms

Admire Kanchipuram’s timeless craftsmanship

Just 70km west of Mahabalipuram is Kanchipuram, the former capital of the Pallava kings. Renowned for its architectural marvels, like the Kamakshi Amman and Varadaraja Perumal temples that span the Pallava, Chola and Vijayanagar eras, this town possesses a lengthy, multi-dynastic history, where each temple tells a story of devotion and artistry across the centuries. Not to be outdone, Kanchipuram’s legacy in silk weaving adds another layer to its charm. Here, generations of handloom artisan families craft exquisite silk saris from the finest mulberry silk – the silk shops on Gandhi Rd are a great place to pick up a stunning sari.

CRAFTING MAMALLAPURAM’S LEGACY

Mamallapuram’s artistic heritage lives on today in its vibrant arts and crafts scene. The ancient tradition of stone carving flourishes at Mayan Handicrafts, whose masons intricately shape granite into breathtaking sculptures ranging from petite Ganeshas to custom monumental pillars. While most sculptors in town today use electric grinders to quickly churn out their statues, this is one of the few remaining workshops that uses a chisel and hammer. Beyond stonework, the town is a treasure trove of woodwork and jewellery. The quaint Maharani Boutique features an excellent selection of curated clothing, one-of-a-kind pieces of vintage jewellery and eclectic home goods from across the country. For literary treasures, Apollo Books is a sanctuary. This used bookstore houses an impressive selection of books in multiple languages.

EATING IN MAHABALIPURAM: OUR PICKS

Joe’s Cafe: Chill spot known for its iced cappuccinos, fresh fruit juices and lassis. Don’t miss out on an order of crepes! 9am-8pm ₹

Le Yogi: Popular Franco-Indian rooftop cafe loved for its momos, crepes, pizza and fresh daily seafood specials. 8am-3.30pm & 6-10.30pm ₹₹

L’attitude 49: Garden views and a copious selection of Indian and Southeast Asian dishes. The main draw is the catch of the day. 7am-11pm ₹₹₹

Wharf 2.0: Elegant shack-style dining by the beach with a diverse menu of grilled seafood, meats and pastas. noon-3pm & 7-11pm ₹₹₹

TOP SIGHT

Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram

Strategically located on the Bay of Bengal, Mamallapuram unfolds as a timeless narrative of the Pallava dynasty’s architectural prowess – it is King Narasimhavarman I’s nickname, ‘Mamalla the Great Wrestler’, that gives the town its name. The ancient world’s splendour is palpable at this UNESCO World Heritage Site, offering an immersive journey into the ingenuity of the Pallava artisans who relied only on the natural landscape to carve out these majestic treasures.

Five Rathas | SNAP ROYCE PHOTO CO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Practicalities

Indian/foreigner ₹40/600

https://asi.payumoney.com/quick/mam

Official guides from the Archaeological Survey of India are available

DON’T MISS

Shore Temple

Arjuna’s Penance

Trimurti Cave Temple

Five Rathas

Krishna’s Butterball

Tiger Cave

Varaha Cave Temple

Krishna Mandapa

Shore Temple

Perched at the edge of the Bay of Bengal, the Shore Temple stands as a beacon of Pallava architectural brilliance. Commissioned by Narasimhavarman II in the 8th century, this is one of Tamil Nadu’s earliest free-standing stone temples – and its most significant. Surrounded by well-manicured gardens and courtyard ruins, time has softened the temple’s elaborate carvings, turning them into delicate silhouettes that continue to enhance its spiritual allure. This striking two-towered structure remains a symbol of the impressive capabilities of Pallava craftsmanship and the maritime ambitions of this influential dynasty.

Arjuna’s Penance

As one of India’s most impressive ancient artworks – and there are many – Arjuna’s Penance is a sight to behold. Spread over two gigantic boulders, this is Mamallapuram’s crowning jewel, worthy of an hour (or two) of in-depth exploration. The intricate carvings have two main themes: daily life in ancient south India and scenes from Hindu mythology. Spend some time looking and you’ll discover a herd of elephants, deer, geese and monkeys all expertly chiselled into the muted brown rock – don’t miss the cat, a representation of Dirghakarna, mimicking Arjuna’s penance to a crowd of mice. Some scholars call this bas-relief the ‘Descent of the Ganges’ in reference to the sage Bagiratha. Carved directly into the centre, this scene splits the two boulders apart and depicts the sage performing penance in order for Shiva to bring the Ganges River to earth. Surrounding Shiva are five dwarves symbolising the five elements (or senses) – earth, air, fire, space and water.

Trimurti Cave Temple

Secluded beyond the rocky terrain at the northern end of Mahabalipuram Hill, the Trimurti Cave Temple pays homage to the Hindu trinity in three adjacent shrines: Brahma (left), Shiva (centre) and Vishnu (right). Guarded by imposing sentinels, this sacred space lacks a front mandapa, a marked difference from the rest of the temples on-site. It’s also home to a majestic group of elephant carvings on the back side of the rock that are meant to symbolise wisdom and strength. Don’t miss the mini shrine to Durga, depicted as an eight-armed goddess standing over the severed buffalo head of demon king, Mahishasura – it’s in a niche to the right of Vishnu.

Trimurti Cave Temple | XTOLINDIA.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

TAKE YOUR TIME

To truly absorb the essence of Mahabalipuram’s ancient wonders, take your time. While it’s possible to visit all the monuments in a single day, spreading your exploration over two days allows for a deeper connection and the chance to fully immerse in the site’s rich history and artistic beauty.

TOP TIPS

• The monuments are open from 6am, so arrive early.

• Wear comfortable shoes as you’ll be walking on uneven surfaces and climbing steep steps.

• Pay attention to signage for information and to avoid restricted areas.

• The best light for photography is in the early morning or late afternoon.

• Take time to explore the lesser-known sculptures and carvings, like the Mahishamardini Mandapa.

• If possible, plan to visit during local festivals like Pongal for a unique experience.

• Don’t miss sunsets behind the Shore Temple.

• Bring plenty of water, sunscreen and a hat.

Five Rathas

Hidden in sand until excavated by the British in the 19th century, the impressive Five Rathas (Pancha Rathas) sit at Mamallapuram’s southern end. A group of five freestanding temples built in the form of chariots, they’re each cut from single large granite stones. Today, these chariots serve as masterpieces of the Pallava dynasty’s creative prowess.

The journey through the Rathas begins with the Draupadi Ratha, resembling a South Indian hut. Dedicated to the goddess Durga, you can see the deity represented inside standing on a lotus and on its exterior walls accompanied by female guardians and a majestic lion for protection and strength.

Next to it stands the Arjuna Ratha, a shrine to Shiva that prefigures the architectural style of later South Indian temples. The Bhima Ratha, with its barrel roof, houses a shrine to Vishnu within. While unfinished, it provides an exemplary look into the architectural practices of the time.

The towering Dharmaraja Ratha, standing a full storey taller than the Arjuna Ratha, displays an array of divine carvings, including the Ardhanarishvara, a symbol of the synthesis of masculine and feminine energies. Set apart from its counterparts, the Nakula-Sahadeva Ratha, dedicated to Indra, features India’s renowned stone elephant, Gajaprishthakara. This intricately carved elephant, positioned as if to welcome or bid farewell, marks the culmination of the journey through the Five Rathas.

TSUNAMI REVELATIONS

The devastating 2004 tsunami’s recession of the shoreline unveiled remnants of ancient sculptures in Mamallapuram, including the towering Tsunami Stone by the Tiger Cave. Other discoveries include a pair of 2m-high lion statues, each carved from a single piece of granite, and a partially finished elephant. Also found closer to the Shore Temple were some ancient temple structures, which archaeologists believe may be part of the mythical seven pagodas built by the Pallava kings.

Krishna’s Butterball

Seemingly defying gravity, Krishna’s Butterball is a massive hunk of rock perilously perched on a smooth slope on Mahabalipuram hill – it’s impossible to miss when entering from the northernmost entrance on West Raja St. According to Hindu legend, the rock is actually a dollop of butter, a beloved treat that the god Krishna dropped onto earth, hence its name. Today, it’s is a popular spot for photos – you’ll often see people posing for pictures behind the stone and attempting to push it down the hill. It’s a testament to the planet’s natural wonders, offering visitors a playful break from the grandeur of the ancient temples and sculptures nearby.

Krishna’s Butterball | JAYAKUMAR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Olakkannesvara Temple

Often overshadowed by Mamallapuram’s other monuments, the Olakkannesvara Temple’s architectural and historical significance make it worth the climb to explore. Perched atop a rocky outcrop with sweeping views of the Bay of Bengal, this ancient structure is believed to have been a lighthouse, with a nightly lit flame guiding ancient seafarers along the Coromandel Coast. Named after the ‘flame eye’ (a nickname for Shiva), the temple showcases the ingenious blend of utility and spirituality characteristic of Pallava design.

Tiger Cave

The Tiger Cave, set just outside the central cluster of Mamallapuram’s monuments, is an open-air rock-cut temple named for its impressive 11 tiger-head carvings adorning its entrance. The crown jewel in this underrated monument is the carving of Durga positioned atop one of the tigers. Thought to have been used for cultural performances or as an assembly hall by the ruling Pallava king, it is now surrounded by peaceful green space, making it a favoured picnic spot among Mahab locals. There’s also a pathway, flanked by food stalls, that leads directly down to a wide stretch of sandy beach on the Bay of Bengal.

Varaha Mandapa

Head inside the Varaha Mandapa to look at some of Mamallapuram’s finest pieces of work. A series of pillars supported by squatting lions greets you as you enter the front hall. Inside, you will find a panel of Varaha, Vishnu’s boar avatar, bringing the earth up out of the sea. The central panels depict Lakshmi (Vishnu’s consort) being washed by her attendants holding matkas (pots) and a four-armed Durga standing above an offering scene. The panel on the right represents Vishnu as Trivikrama, his eight-armed form, surrounded by Brahma, Shiva, the sun and the moon, being victorious against the demon king Bali.

Krishna Mandapa

The Krishna Mandapa is one of Mamallapuram’s impressive rock-cut monuments, bringing to life the pastoral episodes of Lord Krishna. This exquisite bas-relief etched into a massive rock face is a grand canvas, vividly portraying Krishna lifting the Govardhan hill to protect the villagers from Indra’s wrathful rain. The detailed depictions of everyday life, including cattle, herders and gods, reflect the Pallavas’ masterful craftsmanship and deep reverence for Hindu mythology.

TEMPLE DESIGN BASICS

As you embark along Tamil Nadu’s temple trail, prepare to be awestruck. From the intricate rock-cut shrines in Mamallapuram to the epitome of Chola architecture in Thanjavur, Tamil temple design stands tall and reigns supreme. Gopurams (tall entrance towers) feature gods and demon sculptures, mandapas (pillared halls) have intricately carved columns and a series of prakarams (compounds) culminate an inner sanctum housing the temple’s main deity.

Puducherry (Pondicherry)

FRANCO-INDIAN FLAIR | CREOLE CUISINE | HERITAGE WALKS

Tucked away on the eastern coast of India is the Union Territory of Puducherry, or ‘Pondy’ as the locals fondly call it. A former French settlement until 1954, Puducherry exudes a unique Franco-Indian flair, a direct result of its 138 years under French colonial rule – you’ll still find French whispered in the breeze. Today, Puducherry’s allure is not just its history. There’s a flourishing bohemian-chic scene, offering travellers exquisite Creole cuisine, serene beachfronts and a thriving world of wellness. Every year, thousands of New Age visitors flock to the globally renowned Sri Aurobindo Ashram and the nearby experimental commune of Auroville, seeking inner peace, yoga and meditation.

You’ll likely spend most of your time exploring the French Quarter, a picturesque locale of quaint streets and Creole-style architecture veiled in bougainvillea, where the vestiges of the past mingle with the present’s chic. Beyond this, Puducherry’s Tamil Quarter reflects the frenetic pace of a quintessential South Indian city.

GETTING AROUND

Most travellers fly into Chennai and hire a car (₹3000, three hours) or take the train from Egmore station (₹90, four hours). Villupuram, 38km west of Puducherry, offers more routes, as well as buses to many major cities. Renting a scooter is a popular choice for getting around Puducherry, especially if you’ll be visiting Auroville or any of the more secluded beaches. Pondy’s narrow lanes and one-way streets can make driving a car a challenge. Autorickshaws, while readily available, quote obscenely high rates – a 1km journey starts at ₹100.

SIGHTS

1   Cluny Embroidery Centre

2   French War Memorial

3   Goubert Avenue

4   Old Lighthouse

5   Puducherry Museum

6   Sri Aurobindo Ashram

7   Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple

ACTIVITIES

8   École De Surf Pondy

SLEEPING

9   De Fleur Hotel

10   Gratitude Heritage

11   La Villa

12   Le Dupleix

13   Maison Perumal

14   Palais de Mahé

15   Villa Helena

16   Villa Shanti

EATING

17   Bread and Chocolate

18   Café des Arts

19   Chez Francis

20   Crepe in Touch

21   Le Café

22   Les Alizes’

Maison Perumal (see 13)

23   New Banana Cafe

24   Promenade

25   Sree Andhra Tiffins

26   Surguru Spot

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

27   Catamaran Brewing Company

28   Coromandel Cafe

29   La Villa

30   Villa Shanti

SHOPPING

31   Anokhi

32   Aura Experience Store

33   Chintz Boutique

34   Galerie Surcouf

35   Meraki

36   Naushad Ali

TOP TIP

In Pondy afternoon siestas are a local tradition; many shops and restaurants remain closed between 1pm and 4pm. Plan your shopping or dining around these hours.

Puducherry’s Spiritual Sanctuary

Unveil Integral yoga’s essence

Nestled in the heart of White Town, Sri Aurobindo Ashram is a hub of Integral yoga in Puducherry. Founded in 1926 by Sri Aurobindo and the revered French-born ‘Mother’, the ashram, with approximately 2000 members, teaches ‘to manifest a higher consciousness here on earth by transforming human nature and all aspects of human activity’. Today, visitors come from all over the world to pay their respects at the flower-adorned samadhi (shrine) of the two gurus (open from 8am to 11.30am and 2pm to 6pm), sit in silence in the tree-lined courtyard or explore the ashram’s many teachings, available for sale in the small bookshop. Tours of the ashram (₹50 per person), beginning at 8.15am, and Auroville at 1.30pm occur daily on weekdays; enquire online (sriaurobindoautocare.net.in) or in person at the Bureau Central.

A Seaside Stroll

Wander along Puducherry’s buzzy seafront promenade

In the evenings (from 6pm to 7.30pm), Goubert Avenue transforms into a picturesque pedestrian-only seafront promenade. It’s a time when locals, families and visitors alike meander along the coast, observing historic landmarks and colonial-era buildings such as the French War Memorial and the Old Lighthouse that line the street while listening to the waves rhythmically crash on the sandy shores of Promenade beach. Grab a steaming cup of chai at the seafront-facing Le Café – it’s open 24 hours – and head upstairs for a stunning bird’s-eye view of the Bay of Bengal. For dinner, Promenade’s rooftop restaurant serves up an assorted spread of pan-Asian dishes in a breezy, lantern-lit setting.

Puducherry street art by JACE | JACE ©

FRANCO-TAMIL CUISINE

Pondicherry’s Franco-Tamil cuisine is a testament to the town’s French colonial past and Tamil heritage. You’ll find baguettes served alongside rich seafood coconut curries – barramundi and kingfish are standard in Tamilian households, while prawn is the French protein choice. Classic bouillabaisse features a Tamilian twist with the use of moringa, a local superfood rich in vitamins and minerals, to ensure the newcomers could withstand the harsh climatic conditions. Not to be missed is the Creole mango fish curry made using vadagam, an aromatic South Indian tempering of onions, garlic, crushed mustard seeds and lots of sesame oil. In the summertime, you’ll find these balls drying out in the sun on terraces in Pondy.

BRUNCH IN PUDUCHERRY: OUR PICKS

Sree Andhra Tiffins: Budget-friendly spot has tasty lunches that include unlimited rice. 11.30am-3.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat, to 3.30pm Sun ₹

Surguru Spot: Choose between crispy dosas or a lunchtime thali at this well-liked dining hall a few blocks from Sri Aurobindo Ashram. 7am-10.30pm ₹

Le Café: Pair organic coffee with croissants, baguettes and fresh Bay of Bengal breezes – this is Pondy’s only seafront cafe so expect a wait. 24hr ₹₹

Café des Arts: Home-made jam and fresh bread and croissants are a draw at this artsy cafe with a quaint garden. 9am-6pm Wed-Mon ₹₹

Vestiges of the Past

Journey through time in a captivating museum

Housed in a late-18th-century villa, the Puducherry Museum is an abundant repository of Tamil Nadu history and culture. Despite the area’s humidity, the museum has preserved an array of centuries-old French furniture alongside exquisite bronzes from the Chola, Vijayanagar and Nayak dynasties. Highlights include statues of Nataraja (Shiva as the cosmic dancer) and the revered goddess Parvati. The ground-floor exhibit offers insight into Tamil Nadu’s ancient Roman connection with Greek and Roman pottery artefacts discovered at the nearby ancient seaport of Arikamedu (the mound of Arukan); there’s also an impressive collection of glass beads that tells the story of the area’s thriving bead-making industry. Nestled among the museum’s diverse and fascinating collections is a small art gallery with a couple of Raja Ravi Varma paintings on display. Head upstairs to see Governor Dupleix’ bed, a relic of Puducherry’s colonial era.

Temple of Timeless Tales

Divinity abounds in Puducherry’s temple

Dedicated to Lord Ganesh, Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple predates the French occupation of the city. Its name Manakula (manal is sand and kulam is pond) indicates that this 500-year-old shrine used to be closer to the shore. Adorned with around 40 intricate friezes, the temple’s walls depict mythological scenes from the Vedas and Upanishads, capturing the essence of Hindu art and storytelling. Outside, you’ll find the exterior adorned with stucco figurines, a quintessential feature of Dravidian temple architecture. Today, the temple is a focal point of Hindu devotion in Puducherry and a popular pilgrimage site for believers of the sage Thollaikkathu Siddhar – he is believed to have attained enlightenment (samadhi) here. Sadly, the temple’s resident elephant, Lakshmi, who enjoyed giving head pats or ‘blessings’ to visitors, died in 2022.

BEST BOUTIQUES

Galerie Surcouf: An eclectic selection of art, jewellery, home goods and clothing from local and regional Indian creatives.

Anokhi: Unique hand-block-printed clothing and accessories that champion rare Indian handlooms.

Naushad Ali: Indian designer Naushad Ali’s eponymous store featuring sustainable made-in-Pondicherry clothes.

Chintz Boutique: Shop designer Indian clothing, jewellery and home accents at Chennai-based boutique Amethyst’s Puducherry outpost.

Meraki: Unique pieces of jewellery, clothing and more, sourced from designers across India.

Aura Experience Store: This sea-facing boutique on Goubert Ave sells merchandise created by the Sri Aurobindo Ashram.

EATING IN PUDUCHERRY: OUR PICKS

Auroville Bakery: Artisanal breads and organic treats in a charming bakery. A cafe is out back. 7am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun ₹

Crepe in Touch: Indulge in delicious French crepes, quiches and fresh fruit juices at this cosy spot on MG Rd. 9am-6pm Tue-Sun ₹

Bread and Chocolate: Award-winning rustic cafe, known for its commitment to quality ingredients. 8am-9pm ₹₹

Tanto Pizzeria: Wood-fired pizzas and seafood in this casual spot en route to Auroville. 12.30-3pm and 6.30-9.30pm, closed Tue ₹₹

New Banana Cafe: Trendy rooftop cafe, offering a mix of Western and Indian dishes in a vibrant setting. 9am-10pm, closed Tue & Fri ₹₹

Maison Perumal: Feast on hearty Creole dishes in the courtyard of a restored heritage home. noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm ₹₹₹

Les Alizes’: Fabulous Indo-Franco fusion cuisine in this rooftop restaurant in the Palais de Mahé hotel. noon-3pm & 7-10.30pm ₹₹₹

Chez Francis: Upscale courtyard restaurant, where French cuisine meets local charm. Try the prawn curry. noon-3pm & 7-10.30pm ₹₹₹

WALKING TOUR

The French Quarter

An immersive walking tour of Puducherry’s French Town is the best way to get acquainted with the Union Territory’s unique dichotomy, an enchanting blend of French colonial and Tamil cultural heritage that continues to endure today. Wandering through colourful streets lined with tranquil parks and significant Franco-Tamil monuments, a good pair of walking shoes, sunscreen and some water are all you’ll need.

1 Gratitude Heritage

Start at Gratitude Heritage on Rue Romain Rolland, a yellow building dating back to the 19th century. Once the abode of a wealthy French family, it’s since been restored and now functions as a charming heritage homestay. Memories of Pondy’s Franco-Tamil past adorn the walls of its lovely, and extremely lush, inner courtyard.

The Walk: A minute’s walk north from Rue Romain Rolland towards Rue Bussy will lead you to Cluny Embroidery Centre, located on your left.

Gratitude Heritage | JOSE HERNANDEZ CAMERA 51/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 Cluny Embroidery Centre

This massive 18th-century French-era home was the private house of M Lagrenee, a lawyer in the French East India Company. Its columned portico, 3.5m-high doors and a beautiful trio of intricate bas-relief sculptures depict symbols of agriculture, the arts, music, medicine and war. The building now belongs to the Sisters of St Joseph of Cluny, who run an embroidery centre.

The Walk: Continue north on Rue Romain Rolland towards Rue Surcouf, where you’ll make a right. Notre Dame des Anges church is on the corner, with an entry along Rue Dumas.

3 Notre Dame des Anges

Known for its distinct peach-coloured facade and Greco-Roman architecture, the Notre Dame des Anges church stands out for its unique elliptical dome. There’s also a statue of Joan of Arc in the park across the street. And, if you’re lucky, you’ll get to see a game of petanque in play.

The Walk: Head north along Rue Dumas towards Rue Casern. On your two-minute walk to Hotel de Ville, across the street from the Puducherry Police headquarters, you’ll pass the Police Museum.

4 Hotel de Ville

Once the former office of the mayor, today the Hotel de Ville stands unoccupied albeit undergoing a recent renovation in 2021. Its grand facade features beautifully arched windows and a stately colonnade harking back to the 19th century when it served as the municipal headquarters, housing a marriage registrar and community centre for public events. Across the street is the French War Memorial.

The Walk: Make a left on Rue Mahe de Labourdonnais. Walk north towards Rue Ranga Pillai. Make a left on Rue St Louis – the Puducherry Museum will be across the street.

5 Puducherry Museum

A diverse collection of artefacts awaits at the Puducherry Museum. Highlights include Chola bronzes, French colonial-era furniture and significant archaeological findings such as Roman pottery and beads from Arikamedu, an ancient Roman trading post.

The Walk: Head east towards the seafront and turn left on Goubert Ave to the French Consulate on Rue Marine. Continue left down the street and wander into your final stop, the Sri Aurobindo Ashram.

6 Sri Aurobindo Ashram

Founded by philosopher Sri Aurobindo, the Sri Aurobindo Ashram is a welcome sanctuary dedicated to spiritual learning and meditation. Spend some time sitting in the leafy courtyard in quiet reflection before you venture back out to explore.

TOP SIGHT

Auroville

Dedicated to peace, sustainability and ‘divine consciousness’, Auroville is the brainchild of ‘the Mother’, one of the cofounders of the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. This cash-free, nondenominational and self-sustaining commune has long attracted people since first opening its doors in 1968. Despite scandals and controversy, there are now 3300 residents of 60 nationalities who call the ‘City of Dawn’ home.

Matrimandir | VYAS ABHISHEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code for tickets to view the Matrimandir’s Inner Chamber.

SUSTAINABILITY

While residents participate in an exchange of goods and services among themselves, the commune generates revenue through initiatives like organic farming, renewable energy projects and handicraft production, that align with its ethos of environmental stewardship and self-reliance.

Planning & Arrival

Located just 12km northwest of Puducherry, Auroville (visitors centre open 9am to 1pm and 1.30pm to 5pm Monday to Saturday, 9am to 1pm Sunday) is easily accessible by car, bike, bus or autorickshaw. A return auto to or from Puducherry, including waiting time, costs ₹700. The public bus leaves the New Bus Stand in Puducherry twice daily, at 7.30am and 3.30pm, and costs ₹10. Otherwise, you can rent a bicycle or motorcycle from outlets on northern Mission St in Puducherry.

Getting Around

Given its vast landscape and intentional design for minimal car use, Auroville’s 10-sq-km network of roads and lovely shaded tracks is best explored on foot or bike. Bike rentals behind the visitors centre cost ₹50 to ₹60 per day. For visitors staying in Auroville, there’s also the option to prebook an e-bike (kinisi.in/rental) for the duration of your visit.

Local Insights

For a deeper understanding of Auroville and how it functions, join a Pondicherry Beach Escapes tour (pondicherrybeachescapes.com/package/special-auroville-experience) led by a local Aurovillian. This highly curated four-hour experience takes you beyond the visitors centre into the heart of the community where you’ll meet other residents and get an immersive, first-hand glimpse into Auroville’s experimental ethos.

Sleeping & Eating

From basic dorm rooms to private cottages with pools, Auroville’s 92 guesthouses and homestays cater to visitors of all budgets. For any booking questions, you can contact the Guest Accommodation Service (0413-2622704; guesthouses.auroville.org; 9.30am to 12.30pm and 2pm to 5pm) but reservations should be made online directly with each property.

Matrimandir

Auroville’s focal point is its Matrimandir, a striking geodesic dome meant to symbolise divine consciousness. Surrounded by 12 red cement lotus petals and well-manicured lawns, the golden, almost spaceship-like sphere represents the soul of the city. Inside, the marble-lined main chamber houses a crystal orb that diffuses sunlight across the space, setting the ideal conditions for those who want to practise deep meditation. A free same-day pass from the visitors centre lets you view the Matrimandir from the outside. However, you have to plan ahead to meditate inside its sanctum as the space is only open to visitors in the mornings, except on Tuesdays and Sundays – booking requests must be made at least a week in advance (auroville.org/page/visiting-the-matrimandir) and spaces fill up quickly.

Botanical Gardens

Auroville’s botanical gardens cover 20 hectares and include over 1300 varieties of flora, including achiote, orchids, ferns, cactuses and over 300 species of trees. There’s also a vegetable garden and seed nursery capable of nurturing 50,000 seedlings every year. As you meander through the gardens – there are nature walks every Wednesday and Friday from 9.30am to 11am (book your walk by emailing avbgtours@gmail.com) – you’re invited to immerse yourself in the botanical diversity and engage with the community’s ongoing efforts in plant conservation and sustainable horticulture.

Crafts & Shopping

You can support Auroville’s self-sustaining ethos by shopping at its on-site boutiques and stores – approximately 33% of the community’s income comes from the production of food and handicrafts that range from jewellery and organic clothing to candles and pottery. Artisans and designers in Auroville prioritise environmental sustainability, using locally sourced materials and traditional methods.

THE MOTHER

Born in Paris in 1878, Mirra Alfassa, commonly called ‘The Mother’, is the spiritual force behind Auroville’s founding. With her mentor, Sri Aurobindo, she envisioned a community beyond national and cultural boundaries. She meticulously laid out the foundations and charter of this utopian city. However, her vision has not been without controversy. While revered by many, Alfassa’s personality and methods were not universally liked or accepted; her insistence on strict adherence to the vision sometimes led to friction among residents. After her death in 1973, Auroville faced challenges, including legal battles that continue to raise questions over the future direction and governance of the community.

TOP TIPS

• Engage with the community by attending workshops or guided tours (auroville.org/category/media-and-communication).

• Check out the visitors centre first for a gilded version of Auroville’s history and ideals.

• The Matrimandir closes on rainy and cloudy days, so plan accordingly.

Threads of Tradition

Admire the art of embroidery

Run by the Sisters of Cluny, the Cluny Embroidery Centre stands as a testament to an enduring legacy of artisanship and women’s empowerment – it’s been functioning since 1829. You’ll find exquisite hand-embroidered items, everything from tablecloths and napkins to towels and paintings, meticulously crafted by local women, in particular widows, single mothers, divorcees and victims of domestic abuse, who are all expertly trained in the art of embroidery. The French nuns who opened the centre passed on their knowledge of French embroidery to the women; each piece is complex, reflecting the intricate skills passed down through the years. A small flower can have three tonal variations and use three different colours of thread. The embroidery artists blend traditional motifs with contemporary designs, sometimes using reference images for the plants and birds they embroider. Larger pieces can take months to complete, with many being sold out before completion. If you visit during the day, you’ll be able to see the women at work.

Seaside Swells

Learn to surf on the Coromandel Coast

Puducherry, with its burgeoning surf culture, has become a hotspot for wave enthusiasts along Tamil Nadu’s scenic coastline. The region’s beaches offer a variety of breaks suitable for surfers of all levels, from beginners seeking gentle waves to seasoned riders looking for challenging swells – early-morning sessions are often the best to avoid crowds and catch the cleanest waves. If you’re looking to get serious, consider joining a surf club or school to gain insights from seasoned surfers as daily conditions can often vary pretty significantly with changing weather along the coast. Located 5km north of Pondy is Kallialay Surf School, a Surfing Federation of India (SFI) accredited surf school providing lessons and equipment with a welcoming community vibe. Pondicherry Beach Escapes also offers lessons at Serenity Beach, along with scuba diving, ocean sailing and kayaking Puducherry’s serene mangroves and backwaters. The best times to surf are from May to September, when the monsoon winds result in plenty of surfable waves.

TOP SURF SCHOOLS

Guru Surf School: This Surfing Federation of India (SFI)-accredited surf school offers comprehensive lessons for surfers of all levels on Serenity Beach.

Mother Ocean Surf School: Specialising in group and private lessons, this popular school is run by local resident Shankar, who has been surfing since the age of 15.

Kallialay Surf School: Renowned for its experienced instructors and detailed lessons, Kallialay is ideal for those looking to master advanced techniques.

Pondicherry Beach Escapes: Provides 90-minute beginner surf lessons at Serenity Beach and additional activities.

École De Surf Pondy: Offers professional surf instructions in group and private settings in English, Tamil and French.

DRINKING IN PUDUCHERRY: OUR PICKS

Catamaran Brewing Company: Sip on locally crafted beers and listen to live music at Puducherry’s first craft microbrewery. 11am-midnight

Coromandel Cafe: Chic, art-filled cafe with verdant courtyard dining and an eclectic selection of craft cocktails. 9am-8.30pm Tue-Sun, to 11.30pm Mon

Villa Shanti: Sip on creative cocktails and international wines in the atmospheric setting of this colonial-era villa. noon-2.45pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun, 7-10.45pm daily

La Villa: Enjoy finely crafted piña coladas and refreshing spritzes alfresco at this boutique hotel’s charming courtyard. noon-4pm & 7-10.15pm

Beyond Puducherry

Tranquil Tharangambadi: discover colonial relics, serene shores and Tamil traditions in this quiet, historical Danish enclave on the Coromandel Coast.

Set along the Coromandel Coast, Tharangambadi, or Tranquebar as it’s often still called, serves as the perfect retreat from Tamil Nadu’s busy inland cities. The seaside town, meaning ‘place of the singing waves’ in Tamil, was once a former Danish colony until Denmark sold it to the British East India Company in 1845. Tharangambadi has traversed through time, leaving behind an old town centre that whispers tales of its Danish and Tamil heritage. Like many coastal regions in the Indian Ocean, the 2004 tsunami had a devastating effect, killing over 300 residents and disrupting livelihoods. Today, all that remains are remnants of the past: restored colonial-era buildings, a 400-year-old fort and historic sites that continue to memorialise the stories of this intriguing coastal destination.

Masilamani Nathar temple | ROBERT HARDING VIDEO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GETTING AROUND

Tharangambadi is well connected by bus to Chidambaram, Karaikal, Thanjavur and Puducherry. The easiest way to get to Tharangambadi from Puducherry is by taxi or hired car. A day-long round trip is most common and costs around ₹4000, including waiting time. Once you’re there, walking is the best way to see the town. INTACH Pondicherry (intachpondicherry.org) has an excellent downloadable map for a do-it-yourself heritage walking tour that covers Tharangambadi’s main sights of interest.

Tharangambadi TIME FROM PUDUCHERRY: 2½ HRS

Exploring a 17th-century Danish fort

Built in 1624, this peach-hued edifice on Tharangambadi’s seafront, with its high ceilings, watchtower and moat, is an excellent example of Danish architecture. Once the world’s second-largest Danish fort, today Dansborg Fort offers a unique glimpse into India’s colonial past – it’s one of only two Danish overseas colonies in India (the other was Serampore in West Bengal). After Denmark signed a treaty with Indian ruler Raghunatha Nayak of Thanjavur for trading rights in 1620, the Dutch East India Company controlled this flourishing centre for trade on the Coromandel Coast for over two centuries. Tharangambadi was eventually sold to the British East India Tea Company in 1845 and remained under their rule until 1860. Visitors can explore the fort’s robust walls and ramparts that offer panoramic views of the Bay of Bengal. A museum inside narrates the history of Danish presence in India and also includes several Chola dynasty sculptures.

Dansborg Fort | RAHUL D’SILVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Discover the Old Town

A walk through Tharangambadi is like a trip back in time. The majestic Town Gate, or ‘Landporten’ as it is called in Danish, which was replaced in 1792, is your entry into the town. Following down the narrow sidewalks of King’s St takes you past one heritage building after the next, including two of the area’s oldest churches both built by Protestant missionary Bartholomaus Ziegenbalg, Zion Church and New Jerusalem Church. From here, the sandy Bay of Bengal coastline and the imposing Dansborg Fort come into view. To the left is the Commander’s House, which now houses a quaint maritime museum, library and the Danish-Indian Cultural Centre. A stroll along Tharangambadi Beach away from the fort takes you to a rocky outcropping where the Masilamani Nathar Temple, built in 1306, sits. Its unique design, which incorporates Tamil and Chinese architecture, was a concerted attempt to attract Chinese merchants trading in India centuries prior to the arrival of the European colonists.

TAMIL LANGUAGE IN PRINT

Bartholomaus Ziegenbalg’s arrival in Tharangambadi in 1706 was a pivotal moment in the history of printing in India. He began to learn Tamil instantly and by 1712 established the area’s first printing press (now on display at the Ziegenbalg Museum) and chose Tamil – not English, German or Danish – as the first language translation of the Bible to be printed. Almost 500 pages long, the Tamil edition took nine months to print.

The press became a hub for translating and disseminating knowledge, signi-ficantly impacting local education and religious understand-ing. Undoubtedly a groundbreaking venture for its time, Ziegenbalg’s choice ended up bridging the gap between the locals and the missionaries.

Thanjavur

CHOLA HEARTLAND | ANCIENT MANUSCRIPTS | ARTISAN CRAFTSMANSHIP

Established more than a thousand years ago, Thanjavur was once the heart of the Chola empire, known for its far-reaching influence on Hinduism across the world. Its artistic style of carvings, which can still be seen in ruins from Madurai to Mekong, serves as further testament to this. As the cradle of Dravidian civilisation, this is a city that has survived many legacies, from the Pandyas and the Nayaks to the Marathas and the British, leaving behind an intriguing collection of restored sights ripe for exploring.

Thanjavur’s venerable legacy continues today, drawing crowds eager to immerse themselves in its vibrant art, culture, music and dance scenes. The grand Brihadishwara Temple is an architectural stunner. It stands as the city’s focal point of devotion, welcoming thousands of worshippers through its doors each day. Thanjavur’s labyrinthine royal palace, fitted with intricate designs and a comprehensive library, narrates the saga of other powerful dynasties that continued to shape the region after the Cholas. Today, Thanjavur may be a bustling urban centre, but its historical essence surprisingly remains in a remarkably well-preserved state.

GETTING AROUND

It’s easy to navigate Thanjavur. Most historical sights are concentrated within the city centre, making exploring the attractions on foot easy. The town’s flat terrain and well-laid streets make walking tours of its ancient temples and palaces a comfortable experience. To head to the exquisitely carved Airavatesvara and Gangaikonda Cholapuram temples outside of Kumbakonam, renting a car or hiring an autorickshaw is the way to go. There are also several trains that run daily from Thanjavur to Darasuram and Kumbakonam. The journey takes approximately 40 minutes; from there, it’s a short auto ride to the temples. Thanjavur’s local bus network also covers its major attractions, but timetables can be erratic.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Brihadishwara Temple

2   Royal Palace

SIGHTS

3   Art Gallery

4   Saraswathi Mahal Library

5   Schwartz Church

SLEEPING

6   Sangam Hotel

7   Svatma

EATING

8   Aaharam

9   Nasar Idiyappa Paya Unavagam

10   Sahana

11   Thillana

SHOPPING

12   Poompuhar

A Masterwork of Chola Architecture

The pinnacle of Tamil temple artistry

Built by Chola king Raja Raja I between 1003 and 1010, Brihadishwara Temple is a stunning example of the Chola dynasty’s famed artistic prowess. Not only is it one of Thanjavur’s main attractions, it’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The star in this sprawling temple complex is the series of detailed Chola frescoes depicting Shiva that were accidentally uncovered under later Nayak-era murals by historian SK Govindaswami in 1931. Don’t miss exploring the several shrines that dot the complex, including a 6m-long Nandi (Shiva’s sacred bull) cut in the 16th century from a single rock. It’s best to visit twice, at sunrise and sunset, to witness the intricate granite facade – it’s one of the hardest stones to carve – and elaborate stucco sculptures reflecting a spectrum of colours, from the soft light of day to the fiery hues at dusk. The temple often hosts special pujas early in the morning and late in the evening. Timing your visit to coincide with these can provide a deeper insight into the city’s spiritual life and cultural richness, enhancing your experience beyond the usual tourist path.

Take Yourself to Church

Uncover the Danish-Indian connection

Situated within the Brihadishwara Temple grounds is Schwartz Church, a straightforward neoclassical building that showcases South India’s relatively unknown Danish colonial connection. Built in the 18th century, the church honours the memory of its namesake, Danish missionary Frederick Christian Schwartz, with a striking marble relief depicting Schwartz’s final moments with Maratha king Raja Serfoji II by his side. A visit here offers a serene break from the grandiose temples – Siva Ganga Garden separates the church from the Big Temple on the north side – and offers the chance to reflect on the annals of Thanjavur’s eclectic history.

Step into Regal History

Wander the regal halls of Thanjavur

Less than 2km from the Big Temple is Thanjavur’s Royal Palace Complex, an extensive labyrinth that’s not as lavish as you’d expect. Partly built by the Nayaks in the 16th century, it was later expanded by a local Maratha dynasty that ruled Thanjavur from 1676 to 1855. The palace’s architecture, with its vivid murals and assorted selection of royal artefacts, narrates centuries of regal history. The Saraswathi Mahal Library Museum houses Maratha king Raja Serfoji II’s sizeable collection of foreign and Indian books – he is said to have amassed over 65,000 books and 50,000 palm-leaf paper manuscripts during his lifetime. On display are world atlases, dictionaries, medieval literature, Thanjavur paintings, and drawings of Indian flora and fauna. Don’t miss walking past the colourful pillars and archways of the Durbar Hall before making your way to the Art Gallery. There are hundreds of Chola-era sculptures dating as far back as the 9th century, as well as an exhibit of Lord Shiva depicted as Nataraja (the cosmic dancer).

Saraswathi Mahal Library Museum | SHYAMALAMURALINATH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ART ATTACK

Thanjavur’s unique painting style depicting Hindu deities uses a striking gold foil overlay that was first developed by the Nayaks and further refined by the Marathas. The art of bronze casting is also a time-honoured tradition, showing the skilful creation of exquisite idols. Apart from traditional art, Thanjavur is known for its bobblehead dolls that distinctly shake when touched, as well as a local weaving technique of korvai, an interlocking system of border weaving only used on Thanjavur silk saris. Poompuhar (poompuhar.com), a government-run shop with fixed prices on Gandhiji Rd, is a great place to shop for Thanjavur’s unique crafts.

A City of Carnatic Confluence

Tune into Thanjavur’s music festivals

It’s not just art and literature that the Nayak and Maratha kings of Thanjavur patronised; music was part of the repertoire, making the city a hub for classical music. Today, this rich musical heritage is celebrated annually at the Thyagaraja Aradhana, a Carnatic music festival held in Thiruvaiyaru, a quaint town just 12km outside of Thanjavur. The location is the tomb of the legendary Carnatic composer and saint Thyagaraja on the banks of the Cauvery, where thousands of maestros and enthusiasts from all around the world join together to sing Pancharatna kritis, a collection of his five Carnatic classical music songs.

MARATHA CUISINE

The influence of the Maratha dynasty on Thanjavur extends beyond the arts and into the city’s vibrant culinary scene. Legend has it that the beloved south Indian staple, sambar, traces its roots to the royal kitchens where chefs replaced kokum, a Maratha staple, with tamarind to make amti daal (a tangy lentil curry). Dishes like rasavaangi, a coconut curry with eggplant and lentils, and pitla, a yellow curry with bitter gourd, are perfect examples of this hybrid Thanjavur Maratha cuisine. These two books are a good start for further reading about the cuisine: Contributions Of Thanjavur Maratha Kings by Pratap Sinh and Classic Cuisine and Celebrations of the Thanjavur Maharashtrians by Jaishri P Rao.

EATING IN THANJAVUR: OUR PICKS

Nasar Idiyappa Paya Unavagam: Just off Trichy Main Rd, this no-frills spot serves good goat curries, parottas and idiyappams. 11am-11pm ₹

Thillana: Enjoy large lunchtime thalis or South Indian dishes that include piping-hot masala dosas and fluffy idlis. 6.30am-11pm ₹₹

Sahana: Head here at lunchtime for a satisfying thali spread; the Gnanam special is a popular option at this vegetarian-only restaurant. 7am-11pm ₹₹

Aaharam: Organic vegetarian Tamil cuisine in a stunning heritage hotel. The traditional Thanjavur thali is filling but delicious. 7am-11pm ₹₹₹

Beyond Thanjavur

Opulent Chettinad: explore the land rich in architecture, design and delicious regional cuisine, reflecting the resourcefulness of the once-thriving Chettiar trading community

Extending into the rural countryside 95km south of Thanjavur, Chettinad is the land of architecture and design in Tamil Nadu. It’s particularly renowned for its exquisite mansions, built by the spoils of the Nattukottai Chettiars’ burgeoning foreign trade businesses in the 19th century – over 10,000 opulent mansions featuring Indian rosewood and Burmese teak, Italian marble and Japanese tiles are said to dot the rural towns and villages of their homeland, Chettinad. The post-WWII economic decline, however, led to the neglect of many mansions as many Chettiars left the country, abandoning their homes. By 2014 interest in Chettinad’s rich design heritage resulted in the restoration of several mansions, transforming them into some of Tamil Nadu’s best heritage hotels.

GETTING AROUND

Exploring Chettinad is best done by car, as the mansions and attractions are spread across various villages. Renting a car with a driver from Thanjavur for a couple of days is advisable, costing around ₹7500. Local buses connect major towns, but for thorough exploration, hire a car for day trips at approximately ₹2500 per day. You can also take the train from Chennai to Pudukkottai and Karaikkudi (the journey is between six and nine hours).

Chettinad TIME FROM THANJAVUR: 1 HR 50 MINS

Learn the art of Athangudi tilemaking

The quaint village of Athangudi, just 32km south of Pudukkottai, is celebrated for its exquisite handmade tiles. This centuries-old tilemaking tradition arose after the enterprising Chettiars realised that repairs of imported tiles, often from Japan, were expensive and not a feasible long-term solution for the upkeep of their palatial abodes. Crafting replicas of the imported tiles eventually led to the development of this important Chettinad cottage industry that is now recognised worldwide for its distinct geometric and floral patterns and colour palettes. The longstanding Athangudi Palace Tiles workshop offers a fascinating glimpse into the meticulous process of tilemaking. Visitors can observe the production, typically starting around 11am, and even purchase these unique tiles.

Athangudi tiles | TENGATT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Savour Chettinad cuisine

Extensive travels across Southeast Asia and Sri Lanka by the local Chettiar community have played a significant role in shaping the region’s cuisine. Chettinad’s culinary tradition is characterised by freshly ground spices, including star anise, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves and peppercorns, making it rich, robust and distinct from other Indian cuisines. Sundried meats and vegetables reflect the region’s arid landscape and the practical need to preserve foods for extended periods. The Bangala Table – Flavors and Recipes from Chettinad by Sumeet Nair, Meenakshi Meyyappan and Jill Donenfeld is an excellent introduction.

Visit Chettinad’s famous mansions

Chettinad’s grand mansions offer a stunning glimpse into the once-opulent lifestyles of its Chettiar community. While most lie in ruin, a few have been carefully restored and opened to the public. Athangudi Palace (₹100), now a popular film set, is a mansion-turned-museum known for its intricate floral tiled ceilings, wrought-iron balconies and chequered flooring. The CVCT and CVR Houses (₹50), twin mansions belonging to different branches of the same family, boast pillared courtyards, Italian granite and impeccable rooftop views. Not to be missed is VVR House (₹50), built in 1870.

TAMIL NADU’S BEST TOUR OPERATORS

Cholan Tours: Long-standing reliable agency in Trichy with a network of friendly drivers and tour guides across Tamil Nadu (960-00965605; cholantours.com).

Appin Travel Consultants: Responsive agency, especially great for looking up train schedules and booking train tickets across India (988-6748090).

Pondicherry Beach Escapes: Specialises in several carbon-neutral experiences around Puducherry, as well as unique offbeat tours across Tamil Nadu (978-9424750; pondicherrybeachescapes.com).

Milesworth Travel: Professional Chennai-based travel agency that assists in all aspects of India travel (044-24338664; milesworth.com).

Madurai

ANCIENT TEMPLES | HARVEST FESTIVALS | NATURAL BEAUTY

Often referred to as Tamil Nadu’s soul, Madurai is one of India’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, steeped in tradition and antiquity. Archaeological findings show that this metropolis was once an important centre for trade – silk, pearls and spices were top commodities – and commerce with ancient Rome. Madurai’s storied history has seen it come under the rule of the Cholas, Pandyas, Muslim sultans, Vijayanagara empire and, finally, the Nayaks, who were responsible for the city’s characteristic lotus shape.

The heart of Madurai beats around the spectacular Meenakshi Amman Temple, a monumental structure built under King Tirulamai Nayak. It not only showcases the architectural brilliance of the time period, but also serves as a spiritual focal point for Hindus in today’s world. Madurai is a fascinating juxtaposition of medieval spirituality and contemporary growth, exemplified by its thriving IT sector amidst timeless cultural landmarks.

GETTING AROUND

Madurai is readily accessible by plane, train or bus. Madurai airport, 12km south of the city centre, offers several local and international flights throughout the week. While Madurai’s centre is compact and easily walkable, sights outside the city centre are best explored by hiring your own transport: prices start at ₹400 for an autorickshaw and ₹2000 for a hired car with a driver for the day. Madurai’s bus network is cheap and covers major sights.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Meenakshi Amman Temple

SIGHTS

2   St Mary’s Cathedral

3   Temple Art Museum

4   Tirumalai Nayak Palace

EATING

5   Madurai Muniyandi Vilas

6   Murugan Idli Shop

SHOPPING

7   Banana Market

8   Pudhu Mandapa

TOP TIP

Don’t miss visiting Meenakshi Amman Temple during major Hindu festivals such as Pongal – you’ll witness special rituals performed by temple priests. The energy is palpable as festivities transform the temple into a hive of activity and devotion.

Timeless Devotion

Visit Madurai’s spiritual heart

A marvel of South Indian architecture, the Meenakshi Amman Temple is where the artistic meets the divine. This 17th-century complex may have been built during the Nayaks’ rule of Madurai, but the site actually dates back to the Pandyan era in the 4th century. Spread over 6 hectares, it’s nothing short of sprawling, boasting 12 towering gopurams adorned with an intricate selection of over a thousand statues depicting Hindu deities, demons and mythical figures. The goddess Meenakshi (a version of Parvati) is central to this sacred Madurai site and you’ll see her story expertly interwoven in carvings throughout the temple. For art enthusiasts, enter through the eastern gopuram (it’s the oldest) and head straight to the Thousand Pillared Hall, which now houses the Temple Art Museum. You’ll find plenty of bronze sculptures, paintings and a stunning green replica of the Meenakshi Amman deity that non-Hindus can admire. Don’t miss the set of musical pillars located to the west – each pillar, when struck, is said to produce a different musical note.

Walk through the temple for a view of the Nandi shrine engulfed by the characteristic intricately carved columns. The Shiva and Meenakshi shrines are off-limits to non-Hindus, but you can wander through the Golden Lotus Tank where ceiling murals depict Meenakshi’s marriage to Sundareswarar. A strict dress code (no shoulders or legs on display) and no cell phone policy maintain the temple’s sanctity. Not to be missed is the procession every evening around 9pm, when temple priests take the Sundareswarar icon to Meenakshi’s shrine to spend the night.

Sacred Spires

Marvel at the neo-Gothic architecture of St Mary’s Cathedral

Built in 1916 on the site of a small chapel dating from 1840, St Mary’s Cathedral serves as a stunning example of neo-Gothic architecture. Its pointed arches, rib vaults and stained-glass windows are in stark contrast to Madurai’s collection of predominantly Hindu temples. The crowning jewels of this cathedral’s white and blue painted facade are two identical bell towers that twirl 42m into the sky. Inside, the bright-orange vaulting makes quite the statement.

KARI DOSA

Don’t leave town without trying the Madurai kari dosa. This signature dish from Madurai’s pastoral Konar community is unlike any dosa you’ve ever eaten. While typical dosas are light and crispy, the multi-layered kari dosa is filling and full of flavour – it also looks more like a pizza than a dosa. The thick base comes topped with a crispy omelette and a generous serving of spiced mutton kheema. Try it with a side of salna, a coconut-based curry at Vista.

The Nayaks’ Palatial Pride

Tour Madurai’s majestic remnants

The Tirumalai Nayak Palace, in its heyday, was a stunning example of Dravidian and Indo-Saracenic architectural styles. The peeling walls, intricate stucco work and empty larger-than-life halls of this crumbling structure serve as links to Madurai’s regal past and imposing aspirations of its creator. Today, only a quarter of the original palace that was built in 1636 by Nayak King Tirumalai Nayaka remains, including the Swarga Vilasam (Celestial Pavillion) with an impressive 25m-high dome and flanking stone-carved horses, once used as a throne room. To the northwest corner is the Natakasala (Dance Hall), where a collection of Chola-era sculptures and archaeological finds is now on display. A nightly sound and light show (6.45pm to 7.35pm; ₹50) brings the history of the Nayak dynasty vividly to life.

Elevated Nature Escapes

Hike the hills surrounding Madurai

A 10km drive outside Madurai takes you away from the daily chaos of this cultural city to Samanar Hills, where a series of 9th- and 10th-century Jain sculptures and reliefs are carved into the rocky landscape. There are two sites of importance here: the Settipodavu cave on the southwestern slope and the section of Pechchipallam carvings to the southeast – the latter is a more strenuous hike up a set of steep stairs. These reliefs, etched centuries ago by Jain monks, depict various figures from Jain mythology, including spiritual teachers and guardian deities, tirthankaras and yakshas. At the base of the foothills is Ayyanar Karuppanasamy Temple, a colourful temple dedicated to the rural folk deity Karuppu Sami, along witha stunning lotus pond and a rather majestic banyan tree.

Culinary Delights

Savour Madurai’s street-food legacy

Indulge in Madurai’s rich culinary heritage with a local expert. Run by a passionate group of Maduraites, Foodies Day Out (foodiesdayout.com) offers a mouth-wateringly delicious three-and-a-halhour food tour of the city. You’ll get to feast on fluffy idlis, the crispiest dosas, steaming Madurai brottas (a bun and paratha hybrid) and more at coveted spots that only the locals know and frequent. Each bite tells a unique story of the history and people of Tamil Nadu’s cultural capital.

MADURAI’S MARKETS

From fresh produce to silks and souvenirs, Madurai is a shopper’s delight. The streets (North and West Chitrai) surrounding Meenakshi Amman Temple are teeming with tailors’ shops and fabric stalls. There’s also Pudhu Mandapa, located opposite the eastern gopuram, where the skilled tailors can make your clothes in an hour or two; a cotton shirt starts at around ₹400. Madurai’s wholesale banana market is an underrated gem where you can find over 16 varieties of bananas. Arrive early (the market opens at 6am) to see the huge clustered bunches in various hues of green, red and yellow get sold by the cartload. The vegetable market right next door is well worth a visit.

EATING IN MADURAI: OUR PICKS

Murugan Idli Shop: No-frills chain famous for its fluffy idlis and chutneys. Other favourites to try are uttapam, vada and dosa. 7am-11pm ₹

Madurai Muniyandi Vilas: Madurai’s street food brottas are served on banana leaves with various meat curries and sides. noon-midnight ₹

Vista: Picturesque views and local dishes like kari dosa and iral manga curry from this Taj-group heritage hotel restaurant. 7am-11pm ₹₹₹

Banyan Restaurant: Popular for its lunchtime buffets that feature local Tamil dishes. 7am-10.30pm Sun-Tue, from 7.30am Wed-Sat ₹₹₹

Beyond Madurai

Welcome to Kanyakumari, India’s southernmost tip, where the confluence of the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal and Indian Ocean flaunts the magic of Mother Nature.

A four-hour drive south from Madurai makes reaching Kanyakumari feel like a journey to the edge of the world, where the vast expanses of the Indian subcontinent taper to a point and the three seas merge. It is here, amidst the last undulating reaches of the Western Ghats and the lush landscapes of India’s deep south, that the horizon stretches infinitely. Kanyakumari is steeped in a serene yet surreal atmosphere, especially during celestial events such as the sun setting and the moon rising simultaneously over the waters that can only be experienced here. Attractions like the ancient Temple of the Virgin Sea Goddess and the iconic Swami Vivekananda Rock Memorial add spiritual and historical depth, making the long expedition to India’s southernmost tip a compelling endeavour.

GETTING AROUND

In Kanyakumari, most sights are conveniently clustered and accessible by foot, making it relatively easy to navigate this slow-paced coastal town’s top attractions, such as the Vivekananda Rock Memorial, Thiruvalluvar Statue and Kumari Amman Temple.

A hired car (round trip from ₹1500) can be practical, especially if visiting Padmanabhapuram Palace in neighbouring Kerala. There’s also a 90-minute bus ride, running every 20 minutes from Kanyakumari to Thuckalay (₹33). From there, it’s a 15-minute walk to the palace.

Kanyakumari TIME FROM MADURAI: 3 HRS 50 MINS

Swami’s meditation spot unveiled

Perched on an offshore island accessible by a quick boat ride, the Vivekananda Rock Memorial marks the spot where Swami Vivekananda meditated from 25 to 27 December 1892. His insights? Taking his preaching about Hinduism and Vedanta yoga beyond India’s shores, leading him to the United States. In 1970 a two-mandapa memorial was constructed on the island in his honour; it also includes a meditation hall for anyone wishing to meditate. A ₹50 return ferry takes you there; it’s particularly enchanting at sunset.

Vivekananda Rock Memorial | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sky-high literary homage

A towering tribute to the revered Tamil poet Thiruvalluvar dominates Kanyakumari’s skyline. The statue is situated on the smaller island next to the Vivekananda Memorial – this is the ferry’s second stop, tides permitting. Representing the 133 chapters of his most famous work of poetry, Thirukkural – the base consists of intricately carved stone panels depicting scenes and verses from the book – it’s 40.5m tall. Carved by more than 5000 sculptors, this gargantuan statue’s artistic and architectural grandeur is a testament to Thiruvalluvar’s timeless teachings on morality, virtue and the art of living.

Temple tales by the ocean

At the southernmost tip of India, the Kumari Amman Temple is dedicated to the virgin goddess Devi Kanyakumari. Legend has it that the deity’s diamond nose-stud shimmered so brightly at night that it would lead ships astray, which is why today you’ll find the temple’s east-facing door always locked. You’ll need to pay a donation (₹20) in order to enter the inner sanctum; cameras are not allowed and men must remove their shirts before entering. Not to be missed are the evening sunsets over the water from the mandapa located south of the temple.

Explore Vivekananda’s peaceful retreat

Situated just 1km north of Kanyakumari, the Vivekanandapuram is an ashram dedicated to Swami Vivekananda’s teachings. Featuring a meditation hall, comprehensive library and exhibits on Vivekananda’s life and works, it’s a peaceful place to spend an afternoon. You can also sign up to attend yoga teacher trainings, classes and spiritual workshops.

RARE NATURAL PHENOMENON

It is at Kanyakumari, India’s southernmost tip, where the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean converge. A visit here to experience the seamless blend of these three vast bodies of water is nothing short of breathtaking. This rare natural phenomenon creates a stunning visual spectacle, with distinct colour variations in shades of blue, green and grey in the waters that are especially noticeable during sunrise and sunset. At certain times of the year, it’s also possible to see the sun set and moon rise at the same time over the three seas. The confluence, or Triveni Sangam, is also significant for the spiritually inclined, drawing pilgrims to this sacred spot for centuries.

Coonoor

TEA TASTING | NATURE WALKS | MOUNTAIN VIEWS

Undulating tea gardens interspersed with native shola forest and grasslands as far as the eye can see welcome you to Coonoor, a tranquil hill station in Tamil Nadu’s Nilgiris (Blue Mountains). This biodiverse region may have been turned into a British outpost in the 19th century, but the area’s indigenous tribes have coexisted with the Nilgiri’s unique ecological system for thousands of years, with archaeological findings dating back to at least the prehistoric period. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the official state animal of Tamil Nadu, the famed Nilgiri tahr.

Today, Coonoor’s cosy guesthouses and charming heritage hotels are the preferred getaway for visitors looking to explore the Nilgiris, minus the crowds. It invites visitors to immerse themselves in the same enchanting activities found across the Nilgiris – from rejuvenating nature walks through verdant landscapes to explorations of sprawling tea plantations and awe-inspiring mountain vistas.

GETTING AROUND

Local buses operate daily between Coonoor, Ooty and Kotagiri. The Nilgiri Mountain Railway connects Coonoor with Ooty and Mettupalayam, offering breathtaking views, although it’s more of a tourist attraction than a practical public transportation option.

Coonoor’s narrow winding roads are best explored by car or 4WD. While autorickshaws can take you around town, it’s best to hire a car for those looking to cover more ground as the main activities, like nature walks through the hills and tea plantations, are located at varying elevations and in more secluded spots. Hiking shoes and outdoor-proof clothing are recommended on guided walks.

SIGHTS

1   All Saints’ Church

2   Sim’s Park

SLEEPING

3   180° McIver

4   Gateway

5   Ibex Stays and Trails

6   YWCA Wyoming Guesthouse

EATING

7   Cherrie Berry

8   Moddy’s

Peony (see 4)

9   Sri Lakshmi Cafe

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

10   Tranquilitea Tea Lounge

TOP TIP

Guided nature walks are a great way to experience Coonoor’s natural splendour. Led by local expert and naturalist Zubin Contractor (facebook.com/zubin.contractor.7), these tours are highly tailored to your interests and fitness levels. They’re immersive and provide a rare insight into Coonoor’s history and ecological diversity.

A Sip Above the Rest

Expert insights into artisanal Nilgiri teas

Home to some of the world’s highest tea estates, the Nilgiris stand out in the global tea landscape for several reasons. First, some Blue Mountain estates tower at approximately 2440m, surpassing those in Darjeeling. Second is the unique climatic conditions at such high elevations. Most regions would be too cold for tea cultivation, but the Nilgiris benefit from a geographic anomaly that enables them to provide a temperate climate year-round, primarily through the winter months. Sandeep Subramani, an artisanal tea planter is one of the best sources in Coonoor if you’re interested in learning more. He hosts daily tea tastings at Tranquilitea Tea Lounge (tranquilitea.in; ₹1250; 10.45am to 4.30pm), his family’s fourth-generation estate. It’s an introductory lesson designed to give you insight into the art and science behind the process of making some of the world’s finest teas. Each 90-minute session begins outdoors in the lush tea garden with a deep dive into the basics of growing, harvesting and processing Nilgiri teas from bud to cup. An immersive tea tasting follows indoors, with Subramani leading a captivating discussion that highlights how terroir and elevation shape the teas’ unique profiles and the artisanal production techniques that make each of them special.

Coonoor’s Scenic Viewpoints

Take to the hills for a bird’s-eye vista

While there’s no shortage of breathtaking vistas in Coonoor, two of the most stunning are just a few kilometres outside the town centre. A 6km drive east – or walk if you’re feeling adventurous – from upper Coonoor takes you to Lamb’s Rock, a popular picnic spot among locals and for good reason. The beauty of the tea and coffee plantations stretching to the hazy plains serves as a simply awe-inspiring backdrop. Dolphin’s Nose, located approximately 10km west of town, reveals vast panoramas, including the cascading Catherine Falls across the valley. Remember to bring your binoculars for a chance to spot some endemic Nilgiri wildlife along the way!

EATING IN COONOOR: OUR PICKS

Sri Lakshmi Cafe: A Coonoor stalwart since 1957; crispy ghee dosas, thatte idlis and strong cups of filter coffee. 8am-9.30pm ₹

Moddy’s: Popular Ooty chain loved for its range of bean-to-bar chocolates, savoury buns, croissants, sandwiches and creamy gelato. 9am-9pm ₹₹

Cherrie Berry: Enjoy the bounties of the Nilgiris at this farm-to-table restaurant in a tea estate. There’s a grocery store on-site. 9am-9.30pm ₹₹

Peony: Splurge on indigenous Badaga dishes like koi udhakka (chicken curry) at this Taj-group hotel restaurant. 12.30-3pm & 7.30-10pm ₹₹₹

A Botanical Journey Through Time

Discover Sim’s Park’s centuries-old wonders

Spread over 12 hectares in upper Coonoor, Sim’s Park is not just a garden but a living museum showcasing over a century of plant cultivation in the Nilgiris. Established in 1874 by JD Sims and Major Murray, Sim’s Park started out as a pleasure resort for visiting Europeans. Over time, it evolved into a botanical garden. Today, this tranquil oasis has an impressive collection of native and exotic flora, including oak, spineless yucca and turpentine. Wander through its renowned rose garden, rich with colour and fragrance, or explore the heritage trees that tell tales of the park’s historic beginnings by some of its early European settlers. Designed with meandering paths, its terraced layout offers delightful walking paths amidst vibrant flower beds, ornamental ponds and scenic viewpoints, making it a popular choice for a leisurely stroll or place to picnic right in the heart of town.

Hallowed Halls of History

Echoes of Coonoor’s past

As Coonoor’s oldest Anglican church, All Saints’ Church functions as much as a place of worship as it does a repository of town history. Amidst the whispers of old hymns and the timeless elegance of its structure, you’ll find a peaceful retreat and a poignant reminder of British-era colonial rule. Take time to admire the facade before you enter: it’s renowned for its Gothic Revival architecture, featuring stained-glass windows, an intricately carved wooden altar and vaulted ceilings that echo traditional English church designs. Once inside, walk down the burgundy-carpeted aisles of this 19th-century building, and you’ll be met with marble plaques memorialising some of the town’s oldest British residents. Christmas and the annual harvest festival are particularly notable celebrations and a great time to visit the church.

THE NILGIRIS INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES

The British arrival to the high mountains of the Nilgiris two centuries ago marked the beginning of significant shifts for the area’s indigenous populations. Yet resilience blooms. The Todas, a predominantly pastoralist community, maintain a bond with the sacred Toda buffalo. Women’s embroidered shawls, with their striking red and black geometric naturalistic patterns, and traditional hairstyles speak of a rich cultural tapestry that dates back more than 3000 years.

Other tribes, such as the Kotas, Badagas, Irulas, Paniyars and Kurumba, each add to the region’s diverse heritage. The Tribal Research Centre Museum and Government Museum in Ooty both offer educational exhibits into the traditions and crafts that have weathered the tides of change, keeping the spirit of the Nilgiris vibrantly alive.

Ooty

BOTANICAL WONDERS | TEA 101 | STUNNING VISTAS

Affectionately known as the ‘Queen of Hill Stations’, Ooty (or Udhagamandalam) is nestled in the emerald embrace of the Nilgiri Hills. Prior to the British establishing the town as the summer headquarters of the Madras government in the region, Ooty was – and still is – home to several indigenous tribes of gatherers, farmers and grazers like the Todas, who live in small villages called munds a few kilometres away from the town centre. Today, remnants of its colonial-era history still remain in restored hotels and on display in exhibits at local museums. The allure of Ooty’s botanical wonders and tea gardens continues to draw a crowd, but its renowned misty hills and natural splendour are often overshadowed by weekend crowds and traffic congestion. The outskirts of Ooty still whisper the quietude of old hill-station life, you just have to know where to look.

Tea plantation outside Ooty | BALAJISRINIVASAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GETTING AROUND

A hired car is the best way to get around Ooty, as the narrow roads and sharp turns can be challenging. To escape the notorious weekend traffic, visit during the week or start your day early. Autorickshaws are convenient for rides within the town centre. Though more time-consuming, the famous train is a quaint option for getting to Ooty. Public buses are plentiful, running regularly up and down the mountains from Tamil Nadu and Kerala to Mysuru and Bengaluru in Karnataka.

SIGHTS

1   Botanical Gardens

2   Government Museum

3   Karnataka Siri Horticulture Garden

4   Ootacumund Club

5   Rose Garden

6   St Stephen’s Church

SLEEPING

7   Bungalow in Ooty

8   King’s Cliff

9   Savoy

EATING

10   Adyar Ananda Bhavan

Dining Room (see 9)

Earl’s Secret (see 8)

11   Willy’s Coffee Pub

TOP TIP

Consider staying in adjacent towns like Coonoor or Kotagiri for a more relaxed experience, venturing into Ooty just for the sights. Book well in advance during Ooty’s main tourist season (April to June).

Artefact Archives

Discover Ooty’s Indigenous history

Ooty’s Government Museum is a fascinating, albeit underrated, sight for those eager to delve into the region’s rich history and natural heritage. It presents a wide array of exhibits that span the realms of ecology, art and anthropology, shedding light on the Indigenous cultures and ecological diversity of the Nilgiris and providing visitors with insightful context into the historical and environmental background of Ooty and its surrounding regions.

Before you enter, make sure to thoroughly examine the exterior facade – this is the Stone House, Ooty’s first bungalow, built in 1822. Its historical importance lies not only in its architecture but also in its role in the early development of Ooty as a British Raj summer retreat. Situated 10km from Ooty is the Tribal Research Centre Museum, offering an in-depth look into the indigenous communities in the Nilgiris and other parts of Tamil Nadu. The museum houses an impressive collection of artefacts, including ceremonial objects and buffalo skulls from Toda funerals, making it well worth the winding drive.

EATING IN OOTY: OUR PICKS

Willy’s Coffee Pub: Quaint cafe perfect for book lovers with a lending library, board games, good wi-fi plus toasties, pizzas and pastries. 10am-9.30pm ₹

Adyar Ananda Bhavan: Satisfy your south Indian idli and dosa cravings at this popular but reliable chain. You’ll never wait long. 7.30-11.30am, noon-3.30pm & 6-10.30pm ₹

Dining Room: Indian, pan-Asian and European cuisine in one of Ooty’s oldest hotels, plus local Badaga and Anglo-Indian dishes. 7.30-10.30am, 12.30-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm ₹₹₹

Earl’s Secret: Perched above Ooty in a 19th-century British manor; known for North Indian dishes and a charming conservatory. 8-10am, noon-3pm & 7-10pm ₹₹₹

Elevated Views

Ascend to Ooty’s highest peak

Located 7km east of Ooty, Doddabetta Peak is the highest point in the Nilgiris. On clear days, this is one of the area’s best viewpoints. It now draws quite the crowd, so go early to beat the rush and for a mist-free panoramic view. You can hire a taxi from Charring Cross (₹1000 for a round trip) or take the bus – this will drop you off at Doddabetta Junction, and from there, it’s a steep 3km hike. It’s also a quick jeep ride to the peak – you’ll find several drivers waiting at the bus stop; fares start at ₹200.

Stunning Stained Glass

Visit the Nilgiris’ first church

Built in 1829, St Stephen’s is one of the oldest churches in the Nilgiris. Out back, there’s an almost two-centuries-old overgrown cemetery with adorned headstones and tombs of some notable Ooty Brits, including the wife and daughter of the town founder, John Sullivan. Inside, don’t miss the stunning stained-glass windows that depict numerous religious scenes, including the crucifixion of Christ and Mary holding baby Jesus. Most of the timber, along with the massive main beam, in the church was hauled by elephants from Tipu Sultan’s palace in Srirangapatna. On weekends, you’ll find locals selling delicious homemade snacks and pastries after the morning service.

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SNOOKER

Snooker traces its roots to Ooty; it was here, within the walls of the Ootacamund Club that British Army lieutenant Neville Chamberlain developed the rules of a new game he experimented with while stationed in Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh. The club was a social hub for British residents and military personnel, where snooker emerged as a distinctive blend of billiards and pool. Today, the members-only club retains much of its historical charm, including the original billiards table where the game was first invented.

Horticultural Haven

Explore Ooty’s botanical diversity

Ooty’s main draw continues to be its Botanical Gardens, a sprawling haven of serenity since the 19th century. The carefully manicured gardens house over 300 species of plants from all around the world, including towering maples, delicate ferns and gigantic eucalyptus, as well as unique topiary designs. Escape to the higher slopes of the garden to get away from the crowds; you’ll also be greeted by a small Toda hamlet at the top. Situated 2km away is the Rose Garden, captivating visitors with its thousands of roses in an array of colours and scents; to see them in full bloom, it’s best to visit from April to June. Opened in 2018, the Karnataka Siri Horticulture Garden is a recent addition to the parks scene, offering a quiet retreat from Ooty’s more frequented sites.

Botanical Gardens | ALBIN RAJ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

UNDERRATED OOTY

Sandeep Subramani, artisanal tea planter and boutique hotel owner of Tranquilitea, names his favourite underrated things to do in Ooty. tranquilitea.in

Amble with Anne: Stroll to some of Ooty’s historic sights on this leisurely heritage walk. You’ll learn the history and unravel secrets of this famous hill station.

Nature Walk with a Toda Guide: This walk takes you through the grasslands and sholas of the Nilgiris. You’ll get a deep insight into the Toda community, a traditionally pastoral group of people, their culture and way of life. Call Torde at 975-1155691 to schedule.

The Frugal Gourmet: Just 11km from Ooty, Sharmila offers a wonderful reservations-only lunch. She curates a multi-course dining experience for guests at her house. To make a reservation, call 861-0586092.

Beyond Ooty

The Nilgiris’ serene scene: rolling tea plantations, colonial-era bungalows and the impeccable beauty of Tamil Nadu’s Western Ghats.

Don’t let Ooty’s frenetic pace deter you from spending time in the Nilgiris. Head 30km east and you’ll end up in Kotagiri, the oldest of the three hill stations. Here, every path leads to a breathtaking vista and every moment is an invitation to unwind and revel in the splendour of these serene highlands. Skip Ooty’s crowds and make Avalanche Valley your base for exploring the region – located just 20km southwest, it’s an area with rolling farmland, lush tea plantations and a tranquil lake. For a chance at spotting India’s national animal, head northeast to the Mudumalai Tiger Reserve. This 765-sq-km biodiverse area is one of Tamil Nadu’s top wildlife spots.

Places

Kotagiri

Avalanche Valley

GETTING AROUND

The journey from Ooty and its surrounding areas offers a mix of scenic drives but public transport can be limited. In Kotagiri, local buses connect the town to neighbouring hill stations – Tamil Nadu State Transport (tnstc.in) has timetables. For adventures into more rugged regions, renting a car (preferably a jeep, to navigate the mountainous terrain) or hiring a taxi (starting at ₹2000) is the way to go. Buses back to Ooty are often crowded; taxis are worth considering.

Kotagiri TIME FROM OOTY: 50 MINS

Indigenous history at the John Sullivan Memorial

Nestled a mere 2km north of Kotagiri’s heart, the historic house erected in 1819 by John Sullivan, the founder of the British settlement of Ooty, stands refurbished in striking red. The John Sullivan Memorial is home to an intriguing collection of photos, newspaper clippings and artefacts that chronicle the lives of local tribal communities and the European settlement era. You’ll also discover the symbolic history of the region’s legacy, such as the miniature train. Also housed within its walls is the Nilgiri Documentation Centre (nilgiridocumentation.com), a dedicated effort to preserve the natural splendour and indigenous diversity of the Nilgiris. This spot offers a deep dive into the area’s past and present.

Shop for indigenous crafts

In Kotagiri, shopping for indigenous crafts offers a unique glimpse into the local culture and tradition. The Green Shop, operated by the eco-conscious Keystone Foundation, tempts with picnic essentials like local chocolates and wild honey, alongside beautiful handwoven Toda shawls and embroidery. For those keen on supporting local communities, the Nilgiri Adivasi Welfare Association (NAWA) showcases an array of products made by the indigenous tribes, reflecting their rich heritage and craftsmanship. Meanwhile, Shoi stands out for its commitment to revitalising Indian textile traditions, offering an exquisite selection of handcrafted textiles, including saris, purses and wool scarves that embody the artistry and history of India’s weaving communities.

Kotagiri’s highest point

Hairpin turns, thick swathes of forest and quaint mountain villages await on the thrilling 18km stretch of mountain road up to Kodanad Viewpoint. The viewpoint boasts panoramic vistas of the Mysore Plateau and Coimbatore Plains below, where the verdant beauty of the Nilgiris stretches as far as the eye can see.

Avalanche Valley TIME FROM OOTY: 45 MINS

Nature and fishing in Avalanche Lake

Escape to the serene beauty of Avalanche Lake, a tranquil haven nestled 20km southwest of Ooty. Unlike its bustling counterpart, Ooty Lake, Avalanche Lake offers a peaceful retreat into nature’s lap. Here, the landscape transitions from rolling farmlands and shimmering tea plantations to the quietude of hills adorned with orchids and dense shola forests, home to an array of wildlife. Ideal for those seeking solitude, the lake is a perfect spot for fishing, nature walks and star gazing under some of the darkest night skies.

Avalanche Lake | AMRUTH007/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ANIMALS OF THE NILGIRIS

The Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve protects a wealth of biodiversity, hosting a fascinating array of wildlife, several of which are found nowhere else but here in India’s Western Ghats. Among the most celebrated is the Nilgiri tahr, an endemic mountain ungulate thriving on the rugged slopes, viewed by locals as emblematic of the region’s wild spirit. Equally symbolic is the Toda buffalo, a unique breed only found in the Nilgiris, deeply intertwined with the Indigenous Toda community’s culture and livelihood. Visitors may also encounter the majestic Indian elephant, wandering the forested valleys, and the elusive leopard, adorning the landscape with its silent grace. Bird enthusiasts can revel in spotting the vibrant Malabar parakeet and the elusive Nilgiri flycatcher.

EATING IN KOTAGIRI: OUR PICKS

Silvertip Cafe: Quaint cafe with freshly brewed tea, coffee and a range of snacks, conveniently located on Mettupalayam Hwy. 9am-7.30pm ₹

High Grown: Enjoy a wide selection of locally grown tea, as well as cheesy pizzas, burgers and pasta, at this welcoming hangout. 9am-9pm ₹₹

Donnington Bakehouse: Opt to dine alfresco for stunning tea plantation views at this casual Indo-Chinese spot. 12.30-9pm ₹₹

Daily Kota: Cosy cafe loved for its waffles and sandwiches. When it’s cold, opt for hot chocolate. noon-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9pm Sat & Sun ₹₹

TOP EXPERIENCE

Nilgiri Mountain Railway

Embark on a picturesque journey aboard the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, India’s first mountain rail to employ the innovative rack-and-pinion system. Winding through the lush landscapes of Tamil Nadu, this historic UNESCO royal blue locomotive offers breathtaking views of tea estates, waterfalls and dense eucalyptus and acacia forests. Its charm is fabled – the train has been chugging along since 1899.

DETHAN PUNALUR/GETTY IMAGES ©

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code for train timetables and more information.

DON’T MISS

Mettupalayam Station

Nilgiri wildlife

Eucalyptus forests

Terraced tea plantations

Lovedale station

Coonoor

Ooty

Planning & Arrival

Planning your trip on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway requires some forethought, especially with multiple boarding points available: Ooty, Coonoor and Mettupalayam. Each station offers a unique perspective to experiencing the Nilgiris, so choose your starting point based on the experience you seek.

For those starting from Ooty or Coonoor, the train ride offers a glimpse into the greenery and tea plantations characteristic of the Nilgiris. From Mettupalayam, passengers can experience the full 2203m ascent, witnessing the dramatic change in landscape and the engineering marvel of the rack-and-pinion system that makes this railway unique. Regardless of your starting point, ensure to arrive at the station at least 30 minutes before departure to soak in the ambience and prepare for an unforgettable journey through the heart of the Nilgiris.

UNESCO-Worthy Rail

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway’s pioneering use of the rack-and-pinion system, which allows the trains to climb steep mountain gradients, showcases a unique blend of engineering innovation, historical importance and cultural significance. This single-track line weaves through the rugged Nilgiris, offering panoramic views and linking remote hill stations in a way that roads were unable to achieve at the time of its inception. Itʻs not just a railway; it’s a lifeline that has connected communities, facilitated trade and attracted tourists for over a century, contributing significantly to the region’s socio-economic development. It’s one of the main reasons why it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2005, highlighting the railway’s outstanding universal value while taking the necessary steps to preserve its legacy for future generations.

A Timeless Voyage

Boarding the Nilgiri Mountain Railway is a sure-fire way to travel back in time. The steam engines, vintage coaches and original station buildings showcase the impressive engineering feats of a bygone era. Each station along the route marks an important chapter in India’s expansive rail history. Before the railways, it took a gruelling two weeks to reach Ooty; the journey getting from Mettupalayam to Ooty was nothing short of arduous. Today, the 45km journey is a scenic five-hour voyage through steep curves and verdant landscapes, offering visitors a unique glimpse into the area’s past while enjoying the breathtaking views of the present.

The Scenic Route

As the train chugs and whistles, each twist and turn offers a new vista. Leaving Mettupalayam station, the train meanders through rice paddies en route to Kallar before suddenly cutting into a stretch of rocky terrain that passes through tunnels, bends and winding stretches of track. The train then enters its renowned steep climb, ascending past terraces of well-manicured tea bushes and dense tropical jungle areas towards Coonoor. The slow pace of this photogenic journey also allows ample time to soak in the scenery, just don’t forget to keep your camera charged and ready. Throughout the journey, you can witness the railway’s engineering marvel in action: the rack-and-pinion system that facilitates this steep ascent.

FLEXIBLE JOURNEYS

Discover the charm of shorter rides if tickets for the entire route are scarce. Beginning your journey at Coonoor offers additional train timings to Ooty. Itʻs also an ideal choice for those eager to witness the majestic Nilgiris without committing to the longer trip from Mettupalayam.

TOP TIPS

• Tickets can be booked via the IRCTC website or a travel agent. It’s best to book a few months in advance, especially during peak season, to avoid disappointment.

• Wear layers. The temperature can vary significantly depending on elevation.

• Pack water and light snacks.

• Travel light as space on the train is limited.

• Use longer stops to stretch your legs and explore quaint stations along the route.

• Choose a seat on the right side when travelling from Mettupalayam to Ooty for the best mountain views.

• Be aware of any travel advisories via local news websites, particularly during the monsoon season when the service may be disrupted due to weather conditions.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Mudumalai Tiger Reserve

Tamil Nadu is no stranger to diverse landscapes, but the topography of Mudumalai Tiger Reserve is truly something special and worth exploring for a day or two. As part of the expansive Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, it serves as a crucial conservation area for many flora and fauna, including chital deer, elephants and India’s national animal, the ever-elusive tiger.

SRIRAM GIRIDHARAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Planning & Arrival

Nestled on the northwestern side of the Nilgiris, Mudumalai Tiger Reserve is accessible by road from nearby cities like Coimbatore and Ooty in Tamil Nadu and Mysuru in Karnataka. A day trip by taxi from Ooty costs approximately ₹2500 and is usually via the Sighur Ghat road, known for its scenic 36-hairpin-bend hill.

The cooler, drier months are some of the best times to visit the reserve as wildlife sightings are not only more frequent, the weather is amenable to wildlife safaris. The reserve may sometimes be closed in April, May or June due to high risk of wildfires, while July and August are the rainiest, least favourable months to visit.

On arrival, the gateway town of Masinagudi offers a quaint starting point, where you can finalise your permits and safari bookings.

PROJECT TIGER

First started in 1973, Project Tiger is a conservation movement that aims to project India’s Bengal tigers. In 2007 Mudumalai became the first South Indian sanctuary to become a Project Tiger reserve.

Sleeping & Eating

Accommodation within Mudumalai Tiger Reserve caters to a range of preferences, offering stays from rustic forest lodges to comfortable resorts at the edge of the wilderness. The Forest Department operates several guesthouses and dormitories, providing basic amenities for an immersive jungle experience.

For those seeking more comfort, nearby Masinagudi and Theppakadu host a variety of resorts and homestays, such as Jungle Hut and the family-run Bamboo Banks Farm, that blend seamlessly with nature, offering local cuisine and warm hospitality. Dining options mainly include in-house restaurants at these properties, serving delicious South Indian dishes highlighting the region’s flavours.

Tiger Safari

Exploring the wilderness of Mudumalai Tiger Reserve is an experience governed by strict regulations to ensure both visitor safety and wildlife conservation. While hiking within the reserve is not allowed and private vehicles have restricted access, navigating its expansive terrain is still possible through organised safaris.

The official minibus safari is the most budget-friendly option for visitors (per person Indian/foreigner ₹340/2500, camera ₹53/500; hourly 6am to 10am and 2pm to 6pm). For more personalised and immersive wildlife viewing, gypsy/jeep safaris are highly recommended (per vehicle ₹4200, plus per passenger Indian/foreigner ₹130/400, camera ₹53/500; 6am to 10am and 2pm to 6pm). These safaris provide an unparalleled opportunity to delve deeper into the heart of Mudumalai, offering closer encounters with elephants, deer and the Nilgiri langur.

For a better glimpse of the hard-to-spot tiger, plan to visit between February and May when the summer season is about to begin. You’ll not only find animals making their way to the lakes and water sources on your safari, but have the opportunity to see migratory birds like the greater spotted eagle, black stork and booted warbler temporarily settle here as well.

It’s important to note that only authorised vehicles are permitted inside the reserve to protect its delicate ecosystem and ensure the safety of its majestic animals.

Birdwatching

A haven for wildlife enthusiasts, Mudumalai Tiger Reserve is also a paradise for birdwatchers. The reserve’s varied ecosystems – from dry deciduous forests to moist tropical zones – create the right environment for an astonishing variety of birds to live and thrive.

A birdwatching tour here means immersing yourself in the early-morning chorus or the tranquil late-afternoon settings when birds are most active. The reserve is home to over 250 species of birds, including the majestic crested hawk-eagle, the flamboyant peacock and the elusive Malabar trogon. You’ll also spot the Malabar grey hornbill, Indian roller and Nilgiri flycatcher.

TIGERS OF MUDUMALAI

The history of tigers in Mudumalai Tiger Reserve is intertwined with the region’s rich biodiversity and conservation efforts. Established in 1940, Mudumalai serves as one of India’s pioneering wildlife sanctuaries. Today, there are approximately over 100 tigers roaming the reserve.

TOP TIPS

• Morning safaris increase your chances of spotting animals when they are most active.

• Booking your safari in advance is advisable, especially during peak seasons, to ensure a spot.

• Dress in earth-toned clothing to blend in with the natural surroundings and minimise disturbances to wildlife.

• Don’t forget to bring binoculars and a camera with a good zoom for wildlife spotting and photography.

• Stay hydrated and carry water, but remember to leave no trace to preserve the natural beauty.

• Respect the guidelines provided by the reserve to ensure a safe and responsible visit for everyone involved.

Places We Love to Stay

₹ Budget ₹₹ Midrange ₹₹₹ Top End

Chennai

Friendlystay Homestay ₹ A cosy and welcoming homestay in a quiet neighbourhood offering straightforward rooms close to the airport.

Westin Chennai Velachery ₹₹ Luxurious accommodation with modern amenities, fine dining and a refreshing outdoor pool in Chennai’s bustling Velachery neighbourhood.

Hotel Ranjith ₹₹ Modern decor and quality food in a contemporary hotel in Nungambakkam. Suites feature separate living areas.

Taj Connemara ₹₹₹ Iconic heritage hotel blends old-world charm with modern luxury in the heart of Chennai.

Taj Coromandel ₹₹₹ Classic hotel offering opulent rooms, exquisite dining experiences and impeccable service in Chennai’s upscale Nungambakkam area.

Kovalam

Surf Turf ₹ Affordable beachside accommodation with basic rooms and a relaxed vibe, perfect for surfers and budget travellers in Kovalam.

Taj – Fisherman’s Cove ₹₹₹ A luxurious resort on the edge of the Bay of Bengal, featuring elegant rooms, a private beach and seaside dining.

Mamallapuram

Grande Bay Resort ₹₹ A serene resort offering stylish rooms, excellent dining and a beautiful central pool.

Welcomhotel By ITC Hotels, Kences Palm Beach ₹₹ Spacious accommodation and an outdoor pool overlooking the Bay of Bengal on a 3.6-hectare family-friendly resort.

InterContinental Chennai Mahabalipuram Resort ₹₹₹ Minimalist chic beachfront resort offering sleek rooms with sunken tubs, a luxe ayurvedic spa and multiple dining options.

Radisson Blu Resort Temple Bay ₹₹₹ Premium seaside resort providing plush rooms, panoramic sea views and one of India’s longest swimming pools (220m).

Puducherry

De Fleur Hotel ₹ Newly opened budget-friendly hotel with comfortable, clean rooms, an all-day restaurant and rooftop bar in White Town.

La Villa ₹₹ Stunning six-room contemporary boutique hotel with bespoke features that include abstract art, curved wooden headboards and rooftop pool. The alfresco restaurant is fabulous.

Gratitude Heritage ₹₹ Quaint adults-only B&B in a carefully restored 19th-century home with a serene tropically shaded courtyard.

Le Dupleix ₹₹ Charming rooms blend traditional architecture with modern comforts in a converted 18th-century townhouse that once housed the Mayor of Pondicherry.

Maison Perumal ₹₹₹ Set in a beautifully restored 130-year-old Tamil mansion with exquisite architecture and warm hospitality. The Franco-Tamil restaurant is not to be missed.

Villa Shanti ₹₹₹ Housed in a centuries-old building and revamped by two French architects, this hotel expertly blends contemporary design with traditional Tamil elements. The courtyard restaurant is also a popular draw.

Villa Helena ₹₹₹ Gracefully restored French-run property with elegantly furnished rooms, vintage furnishings and a charming courtyard cafe.

Palais de Mahé ₹₹₹ Stunning boutique heritage hotel by CGH Earth, featuring airy rooms, an alluring courtyard pool and an exceptional rooftop restaurant.

Thanjavur

Sangam Hotel ₹₹ Comfortable and convenient hotel offering well-appointed rooms, a pool and a great South Indian restaurant.

Svatma ₹₹₹ Well-balanced combination of luxury with tradition, featuring vintage Indian furnishings and bespoke experiences in a chic 150-year-old building.

Chettinad

Chidambara Vilas ₹₹ Intricately carved woodwork, stained-glass windows and quintessential tilework make this luxurious heritage hotel an architectural delight. The on-site restaurant serves up some of the best Chettiar-style banana-leaf lunches.

Bangala ₹₹₹ Chettinad’s first heritage hotel boasts charming verandahs with black-and-white photos of days gone by. It’s known for its sumptuous banana-leaf feasts, attentive service and refreshing tiled pool.

Black-and-orange flycatcher, Nilgiri Hills | THAVAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Visalam ₹₹₹ Transporting you to Chettinad’s heyday, featuring original furniture, paintings and photos of the owners in a stunning 20th-century abode.

Chettinadu Mansion ₹₹₹ Experience grandeur in this centuries-old 126-room mansion, still run (and lived in) by the original Chettiar family.

Madurai

Heritage Madurai ₹₹₹ Luxury hotel designed by renowned architect Geoffrey Bawa with a stunning step-well-inspired pool. The ‘villas’ with private plunge pools are one-of-a-kind.

Gateway Hotel Pasumalai ₹₹₹ Resident peacocks, diverse flora and panoramic bird’s-eye views make this sprawling hilltop Taj-group hotel a peaceful retreat in temple town.

Courtyard by Marriott Madurai ₹₹₹ Reliable chain featuring modern rooms, an outdoor pool and excellent city views.

Kanyakumari

Hotel Sivamurugan ₹₹ Fixed year-round rates make this centrally located hotel an appealing budget choice. Upgraded rooms offer sea views.

Sparsa Resort ₹₹ Straightforward hotel with sea views, a pool and restaurant across the street from a beach.

Coonoor

YWCA Wyoming Guesthouse ₹ A budget-friendly guesthouse in a centuries-old building offering simple, clean rooms with beautiful town views.

Ibex Stays and Trails ₹₹ Nestled in the Nilgiris, this 113-year-old bungalow offers cosy rooms with breathtaking mountain views, perfect for nature lovers and trekkers exploring Coonoor.

Gateway ₹₹₹ Luxurious Taj-group heritage hotel in a former priory set amidst lush greenery, offering evening bonfires and exceptional service.

180° McIver ₹₹₹ A serene heritage villa dating back to the 1900s offering panoramic views of the Nilgiris, six elegantly appointed rooms and a renowned restaurant serving gourmet cuisine in a leafy setting.

Ooty

SaffronStays Milton Abbott Estate ₹₹ Surrounded by forest, this serene four-bedroom bungalow features airy rooms and access to hiking trails. The outdoor lawn fireplace is perfect for chill nights.

King’s Cliff ₹₹ Perched atop the hills, this historic mansion-turned-charming heritage hotel boasts enviable views of the misty Ooty hillside. Don’t miss a cosy fireside dinner featuring North Indian specialities at Earl’s Secret.

Bungalow in Ooty ₹₹₹ Quaint three-bedroom heritage B&B that blends luxury with history, offering personalised service and an intimate experience in the heart of Ooty’s charming landscape.

Savoy, IHCL SeleQtions ₹₹₹ Ooty’s oldest heritage hotel dates back to 1829. Choose from chic cottages facing the well-manicured gardens. The on-site restaurant serves delicious local Badaga dishes.

Kotagiri

Ibex Stays and Trails ₹₹ Charming four-room property, ideal for small groups, overlooking verdant tea estates just outside the Kotagiri city centre.

La Maison ₹₹₹ Attentive homestay in a wonderfully renovated 19th-century Scottish bungalow run by a Franco-Indian couple. A soak in the mountain-facing hot tub is not to be missed!

Avalanche Valley

Red Hill Nature Resort ₹₹ Secluded TV-free resort surrounded by lush tea gardens and the Nilgiris’ quintessential rolling hills. Offers nature walks, organic food and fishing.

Andaman Islands

IDYLLIC, TROPICAL ARCHIPELAGOS

With the Nicobar Islands out of bounds, it’s the Andamans where visitors flock to for a slice of unspoilt paradise, full of natural wonder.

GORAN_SAFAREK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Andaman Islands (a Union Territory) are 1200km from the mainland. They’re one of the remotest corners of India but, wow, are they worth the journey. Astounding turquoise seas lap the coast of the tropical, forested islands, loved for their shimmering white beaches, exceptional diving sites and glorious sunsets. Communities from across the nation migrated to the long, thin cluster of tropical islands throughout the 20th century – living and working in agriculture, fishing and most recently tourism, the ever-growing local industry.

For thousands of years, Adivasi (indigenous) groups lived on the islands; there are seven tribes, sadly now restricted to living in reservations. The Jarawa tribe is the biggest, and it is against the law to interact with any of these groups.

Danish and then British colonisers exploited the islands. The murky past of British oppression is still very visible in Port Blair, the capital city, which was used as a penal colony for ‘political’ prisoners (freedom fighters). These days Port Blair, Swaraj Island (Havelock) and Shaheed Island (Neil) pull in tourists, the latter two being diving and relaxation havens. But the palm-lined tropical islands, from Diglipur to Little Andaman at the furthest south, are seeing new tourism initiatives being suggested every year. Despite the hype, there’s still a delicious undeveloped vibe to lie back and sink into – the longer you can stay the better.

Swaraj Island | DOCTORS PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE MAIN AREAS

PORT BLAIR

Bustling, historical capital of the Andamans.

SWARAJ ISLAND (HAVELOCK)

White sand beach–lined diving haven.

SHAHEED ISLAND (NEIL)

Charming, pint-sized and enjoyably laid-back.

Find Your Way

There are 325 islands in the Andaman archipelago. Only a handful have the infrastructure to welcome tourists and many areas are off-limits to give peace and space to the indigenous communities – like the Onge and Andamanese – residing there.

Plan Your Days

Whether you’re in the Andamans for island hopping, road-tripping, surf pilgrimages or diving, it is not a place to rush around. Ferries are scheduled but weather dependent, so go with the flow and enjoy the pace.

Ruins, Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose (Ross) Island | AJAYTVM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A Long Weekend

• Land in Port Blair in time for the last (2pm) boat trip from Aberdeen Jetty to Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose (Ross) Island and spend the afternoon wandering the paths through the eerie remains of the British penal colony staff’s village, now overgrown with ficus trees. That evening, back in Port Blair, enjoy dinner and cocktails at Amaya, the rooftop restaurant with views over the bay.

• Grab your bags the following morning and hop on a ferry to Swaraj Island; the journey takes an hour. Spend two nights on the island paradise, snorkelling with turtles by day and twitching for owls by night, before sailing back to Port Blair to fly out.

Sink into a Beach Week

• After taking in historical sites in Port Blair, spend day two kayaking through the vast, peaceful mangroves. On day three, get the ferry to Swaraj Island and try a beginner’s PADI dive or two, if you’re not already licensed. If you are, spend three days diving out in the deep blue, at one of the incredible sites like Minerva Ledge.

• Spend your last two days unwinding on Shaheed Island, just an hour by ferry from Swaraj Island, where you can stargaze, join a yoga retreat or dive in search of the elusive dugongs. To depart, take a ferry back to Port Blair and fly to the mainland.

A Slow Travel Sojourn

• If you’ve got time on your hands, perhaps a sabbatical or remote work situation, the Andamans are your oyster. Swaraj Island has excellent wi-fi these days (installed in 2022) and lovely spots like Full Moon Cafe to work from, should that be on your agenda. If adventure is on your mind, spend a few days kayaking and diving in Port Blair.

• Take the eight-hour night ferry to Little Andaman to get to the remotest part of the islands and join the surfers in Hut Bay. If surfing isn’t your bag, a month in Shaheed Island promises pure tranquillity, especially with the new yoga and sound-healing retreat in situ.

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

Peak season is November to January when the climate is coolest (around 26 to 28°C), but October to April is also a good time to visit. Beyond that you’re facing monsoon season.

JANUARY

An ideal month in the Andamans, January is particularly lovely on Neil, where the Vivekanda Mela (local festival to honour Vivekanda) runs for a week from the 12th.

FEBRUARY

Perfect temperatures and smaller crowds make this the perfect time to go, particularly for surfers who head to Little Andaman for the swells.

APRIL

As the temperatures rise, the general crowds disperse but divers love April in Swaraj and Shaheed Islands, as the sea remains calm.

MAY

The last month before monsoon starts in earnest, May is officially shoulder season in the Andamans, so great for lower prices.

OCTOBER

As monsoon ends, the first visitors come back to the islands; the waterfalls flow deep now – a great time for treks.

NOVEMBER

Crowds pick up again around the Diwali holidays, as do local celebrations, making it a particularly vibrant time to visit.

DECEMBER

With peak season in full swing, December is a great time to search out post-dive parties, particularly on Swaraj Island.

Port Blair

MOVING HISTORY | TRANSPORT HUB | TOP KAYAKING

The provincial capital of the Andaman Islands is so compact it feels wrong to call it a city, but it’s certainly a bustling hub, full of activity as the archipelago’s financial, industrial and transport centre. With the only airport on the islands, most international visitors land here before boarding onward ferries. Don’t rush through it though. Stray beyond the bazaar to its forests, mangroves and beaches for activities just as fine (if not better) than those on Swaraj Island – the diving and kayaking is particularly great off Port Blair. It’s also awash with fascinating museums and historical sites with a murky imperial past that pull in domestic tourists keen to see monuments to the struggle for Indian independence. The food is tip-top, with the resident population of 148,000 originating from countless corners of India, so the range of cuisine is diverse, but it’s seafood that’s the star, of course.

GETTING AROUND

Autorickshaws are the easiest way to whip around town. Ask for the meter to be switched on, but at a push, a ride anywhere in the centre shouldn’t cost more than ₹200. Taxis from the airport to the centre should set you back ₹150 to ₹200. Moped hire is ₹500 a day; useful if you’re heading down to Chidiya Tapu and Munda Pahar, or Wandoor. When heading out to the popular nearby islands of Havelock and Neil, the easiest ferry companies to engage are Makruzz (makruzz.com) or Nautika (gonautika.com).

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Cellular Jail National Memorial

SIGHTS

2   Aberdeen Bazaar

SLEEPING

3   Amina Lodge

4   Andaman Homestay

5   SeaShell Port Blair

EATING

Amaya (see 5)

6   Honey Hub Restro

7   Hotel Kattabomman

8   The Grill

TOP TIP

Grab your essentials, whether that’s medicine, sunscreen, toiletries or beach provisions, from Aberdeen Bazaar, the dinky retail hub of the capital. You’ll struggle to find these things in Havelock and Neil islands, so stock up.

The Cellular Jail’s Imperial Shadows

India’s fight for independence remembered

A symbol of India’s long struggle for independence from the British Empire, the Cellular Jail in Port Blair is a national monument that citizens flock to from across the country. It’s just ₹30 to enter and an important, moving place to visit. Three lengthy wings of the imposing panopticon prison remain intact. Names of the imprisoned freedom fighters line the walls of the observation tower, listed by the state where they were arrested before being brought here and incarcerated, tortured and even executed, as the gallows here reminds us. The popular Cellular Jail Sound & Light Show brings these stories alive in the prison’s courtyard. You can grab tickets from the entrance booth for the English show at 6.50pm (in peak season).

Cellular Jail | RON RAMTANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A Very British Village

Visit the ruins on Ross Island

A 10-minute boat ride from Aberdeen Jetty, Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island (renamed from Ross Island) is as picturesque as it is eerie. The British officers in charge of the Cellular Jail and all the horrors that went on there lived on this island, which they left abruptly when the Japanese occupied the Andamans in 1942. Their church, houses, ballroom, power station and swimming pool are all overgrown with twisting roots of ficus trees. The only residents here are the hundreds of deer, who were introduced by the hunt-loving British military.

A Kayaking Haven

Paddle through serene, private mangroves

While other Andaman Islands hog the kayaking limelight, locals (and travel magazines) know you can find the best paddling experience in the archipelago right here in Port Blair. It is run by the Noble family at Andaman Homestay. Jump in the back of the car with these experts and enjoy a truly peaceful and unique excursion of the waterways in the lush, dense mangroves of Flat Bay, just north of Haddo, to the west of Port Blair’s old centre. The serenity here on their private land gives you an almost meditative experience – sink into your time on the water, 90 blissful minutes of absorbing birdsong and the sounds of the sea lapping up to the tree roots and sandbank shores. Even more special, and something you’ll remember forever, is the opportunity to do some seed planting. If the kayak leader spots pods of seeds floating as you glide past, they scoop them up so you can sew them into the beds of mangrove, adding new life to the lush, waterborne forest. If you’re a more experienced kayaker, ask to book a night trip to witness the magnificent bioluminescence: neon blue plankton and sea-mushrooms growing under the surface. Prices start from ₹2800; drop them a line (andamanhomestay.com/kayaking) in advance to book.

CROCODILE ROCK

Crocodiles are found in many parts of the Andamans, particularly Corbyn’s Cove and Wandoor near Port Blair, as well as Little Andaman, Baratang and North Andaman.

An American tourist was killed by a saltwater crocodile off Swaraj Island (at Neil’s Cove) in 2010, as was a young Indian at Wandoor Beach in 2017. A high level of vigilance remains in place, with swimming banned at some beaches. Keep informed, listen to any warnings by authorities and avoid being in the water at dawn or dusk.

Head to Southern Shores

Peaceful vibes near Port Blair

About 25km south of Port Blair, the tiny hamlet of Chidiya Tapu and the sands of Munda Pahar pull in a day-tripping crowd from Port Blair for a reason: it’s one of the most idyllic corners of the region. Generally Chidiya Tapu is popular for birdwatching and vibrant sunsets, but Andaman locals also know it as a great spot to cut your teeth in the diving scene. Two highly reputable centres, Lacadives and Infinity Scuba, run trips to dive sites like Corruption Rock and a WWII British minesweeper wreck. Its easterly neighbour, Munda Pahar Beach, is a peaceful, unspoilt slice of nature with a silver-sand beach, but note that swimming is currently banned due to crocodile warnings.

DODGE THE CROWDS

Tanaz Noble, kayaking instructor. @kayakwalla

The biggest Chidiya Tapu secret is that everybody heads there for sunset, so switch it! I recommend going there in the morning. There’s the biological park you can go through and an excellent little hike from Munda Pahar beach to the lighthouse. It’s along a little cliff, with the sea lashing against the rocks on both sides below. It’s beautiful and quite a refreshing feeling. It’s a very fulfilling day; pack your food and take it with you. You can’t eat the food in the park but once you come out you can eat it. There are coconut-water sellers; drink that to get your electrolytes back up.

BEST RESTAURANTS IN PORT BLAIR

Amaya: Rooftop restaurant at SeaShell hotel boasts sea views as good as its tiger tandoori prawns – enjoy with a cocktail. 11am-11pm ₹₹₹

Hotel Kattabomman: The best South Indian veg restaurant just off Aberdeen Bazaar; dosas and terrific chai. 6.30am-9.30pm ₹

Honey Hub Restro: Tucked away in the ‘mall’, this spot serves quality fare, including North Indian favourites. 11am-10.30pm ₹₹

The Grill: An unmissable seafood joint, this charming spot in Haddo serves grilled fish and has great ambience and vibes. 3-11pm Tue-Sun ₹₹

Beyond Port Blair

Sprawling mangroves, white-sand beaches, quiet surfing villages and idyllic farmstays; there’s much more to the remote corners of the Andamans.

Most tourists land in Port Blair and head off to Swaraj Island and Shaheed Island but there’s much more to explore in the Andaman Islands, with the capital city’s transport hub as your jumping-off point. Eight hours south, Little Andaman is an island out on its own, with extremely sleepy seaside villages unless you are down to conquer the surf. Middle Andaman towns Baratang, Rangat and Mayabunder are all a stone’s throw from natural sights and verdant farmlands, while Diglipur – capital of the north – is an unspoilt local town, a short car drive from Kalipur Beach or boat ride over to the stunning, uninhabited Ross and Smith Islands.

Places

Little Andaman

Diglipur

GETTING AROUND

Arranging the eight-hour ferry ride to Little Andaman is easy enough; government ferries can be booked by anyone with a login so your accommodation in Port Blair or on any island can help you book. You can also reach Middle and North Andaman by ferry but the schedule is less regular. Employ a driver to take you there via the Andaman Trunk Rd, as it’s illegal to drive yourself along this route.

Little Andaman TIME FROM PORT BLAIR: 8 HRS

Surf Little Andaman

Little Andaman has a very small tourism scene, which is not surprising given that it’s quite the commitment to get there. So if you’re after an idyllic, quiet place to relax in a hammock uninterrupted, this is your place. It does, however, have an under-the-radar, nascent surfing culture for a few months of the year. If you’ve already cut your teeth and learnt how to surf somewhere out in the wide world and have some decent experience under your belt, Little Andaman offers the best swell exposure in the archipelago, brewing from the southwest, as it isn’t blocked by the Nicobar Islands that sit a little to the southeast. It’s a very low-key surf scene for a couple of reasons – surfers want to keep it that way (you’ll be hard pressed to find videos and footage on YouTube, for example) and the local government does too, probably due to the ever-lingering possibility of crocodiles appearing – they are known to be pretty high in numbers on the island. But if you’re up for braving it, surfing in Little Andaman is about more than just catching waves. Immerse yourself in this astoundingly beautiful and undiscovered location. Ferries dock in Hut Bay, which is dotted with small homestays, most of whom have surfboards (long, short and bodyboards) to rent. The surf season runs from February to late April when the monsoon rains roll in.

Diglipur TIME FROM PORT BLAIR: 14 HRS

Lesser visited natural wonders

Diglipur, the capital of North Andaman, is a small, buzzy market town, full of bazaars that remain untouched by tourism as yet. It’s surrounded by some of the Andamans’ greatest natural sites, which are still very much off the beaten path. Just 17 km south east of Diglipur is Kalipur Beach, where you’ll likely want to base yourself. This white-sand beach is home to a world-famous turtle-nesting site, where the migratory breeding takes place between November and February, under the careful, watchful eye of the local Forestry Department. They lead midnight tours along the starlit beach to see the incredible creatures laying their eggs. It’s quite the trek and only infrared light is allowed, so be mindful of the challenges of these late-night walks and make sure to go with the official government officers.

Diglipur’s other star attractions are the Ross and Smith Islands. Get your ₹500 pass from the Forestry Department (or ask your driver/guide to sort it for you) and hop on a speedy vessel that whizzes from Diglipur’s Arial Bay Jetty to the famous twin islands in just 25 minutes. These stunning islets are linked by a sandbank at low tide and, apart from being wildly picturesque, are also a brilliant place to wade in for a stint of snorkelling, being home to stretches of incredible coral reefs.

Turtle hatchery, Kalipur Beach | NEEL DASS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ONGE: THE FIRST ISLANDERS

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands’ indigenous peoples make up 7.5% of the population and, in most cases, their numbers are decreasing. The Onge, Sentinelese, Andamanese and Jarawa have a strong resemblance to people from Africa, but anthropologists are at a loss as to how and when the tribes arrived. Tragically, numerous groups have become extinct.

Two-thirds of Little Andaman’s Onge Island was taken over by the Forest Department and ‘settled’ in 1977. The 100 or so remaining members of the Onge people – traditionally hunters – are now dependent on government handouts, and live in a 25-sq-km reserve covering Dugong Creek and South Bay. As with all indigenous communities of the Andaman Islands, it’s illegal to visit the Onge.

THE GREAT ANDAMAN TRUNK ROAD TRIP

Getting to North Andaman from 1 Port Blair is no mean feat. The government-run ferries are irregular and at the whim of the weather so islanders will tell you the road is the way to go. All tourists have to employ a driver to accompany them – this is for the safety of the Jarawa people who live in the region either side of the Andaman Trunk Rd (ATR); it is illegal to stop and communicate with them. Barefoot Holidays or Andaman Bliss are great agencies to arrange the whole trip for you.

Drive north along the ATR for two hours before making your first pit stop in 2 Baratang; pop inside the limestone cave – a geology marvel. Then take a mangrove boat ride and stop by the mud ‘volcano’ – the jury’s out on this one but worth a look if you’re passing. A further three hours north, stop at 3 Moricedera Beach, a great place to admire the blues of the ocean and have a prepacked picnic. A 10-minute drive further up along the coast takes you to 4 Dhani Nallah’s mangrove walkway, which leads you through the dense greenery to the beach, a famous hatching ground for sea turtles.

There are a handful of small guesthouses in Rangat to stay the night or press on another 90 minutes north to stay the night (or two) at 5 Koh Hee Homestay run by wonderful Saw John and Morris in Webi just south of Mayabunder. From here, take the last stretch of the drive up to 6 Diglipur.

Swaraj Island (Havelock)

PALM-LINED BEACHES | SEA LIFE | RELAXATION

The star destination of the Andamans, Swaraj Island (renamed in 2018 from Havelock) easily earns its reputation as an island paradise. With sprawling white-sand beaches, thick tropical forests, rare flora and fauna, and some of the nicest resorts to be found perhaps in the whole of India, there’s really nowhere else in the country quite like it. Even as the number of tourists increases, the island still maintains an undeveloped feel. It’s easy to avoid the tour group crowds and find your own quiet corner of heaven. The island is famous for snorkelling its turtle-laden reefs or diving in the deep sea – a handful of centres have been operating here for decades. Kayaking and rock-pooling are other water-based fun here. Back on land, nature walks and night hikes led by seasoned naturalists guide you through mangroves and rainforests to secret spots to quietly seek out rare endemic creatures.

GETTING AROUND

Local buses leave from the ferry jetty to Radhanagar Beach or Kala Pathar Beach and village every 40 minutes, at ₹30 a ride. Both bus routes pass through the small market area, a junction where the roads to both beaches meet. You can rent a moped scooter from the handful of bike shops near the jetty for ₹500 a day (a full tank of petrol costs ₹400 and should last a couple of days) or take an autorickshaw from the jetty across to Radhanagar Beach, which will set you back ₹600 each way.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Radhanagar Beach

SIGHTS

2   Elephant Beach

3   Kala Pathar Beach

4   Neil’s Cove

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

5   Barefoot Scuba

6   Dive India

7   Lacadives

8   Scubalov

SLEEPING

9   Barefoot Havelock

Barefoot Scuba (see 5)

10   Havelock Farms Resort

11   Matsya Island Retreat

SeaShell Havelock (see 8)

Taj Exotica (see 7)

EATING

12   Aloha Cafe

13   Anju Coco Resto

Full Moon Cafe (see 6)

14   Hashtag Dosa

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

Cafe 4 (see 11)

High Tide (see 8)

15   Narra

16   Something Different

TOP TIP

Saltwater crocodiles live in the remotest corners of Havelock. While you’re unlikely to see one (it’s been over a decade since the last fatal incident), do ask locals before swimming or kayaking anywhere, and heed their advice.

Deep Sea Adventures

Diving central, no matter your skill

While it’s not the only island to head to for diving in the Andamans, Swaraj Island is undeniably the most popular and well known for its underwater adventures. Famous marine biologist and godfather of scuba diving Jacques Cousteau saw to that. He visited the island in 1989, making a TV episode that focused on the wonders of the Andaman deeps, called ‘Invisible Islands’. While there, he discovered Minerva Ledge (now a popular dive site), the edges of which lead down into deeper waters where pelagic fish like tuna, barracuda and marbled stingray live. The currents at this site allow for drift diving, if you’re an experienced diver. The ledge is too large to take in on one dive, so centres will invite you to choose one of three locations, including flat coral gardens populated by schools of fusilier, surgeonfish and snappers, with the occasional turtle, moray eel or giant grouper making an appearance. Or you could choose Dixon’s Pinnacle or Pilot Reef, with colour-ful soft coral; South Button for macro dives and rock formations; the Wall for soft coral and night dives; or Jackson’s Bar or Johnny’s Gorge for deeper dives with schools of snapper, sharks, rays and turtles.

It’s important you select a top-quality dive centre that is a PADI or SSI member, such as Barefoot Scuba, Dive India, Lacadives or Scubalov, all veterans of the scene who employ educated and meticulously trained staff. They offer everything from beginners’ dives to lengthier courses for those already holding a licence. Another important thing to consider is your sunscreen. Most are extremely harmful to sea life, which is particularly worrying now diving is booming here. As one master diver told us: ‘sunscreen feels so trivial, but one drop of the chemicals inside it in an Olympic pool amount of water will kill coral’. So make sure to buy reef-safe, biodegradable sunscreen before your trip – it’s hard to come by here.

Rare Birds Galore

Best birdwatching ever? Probably

Whether you’re an experienced twitcher or a novice with an interest in all things avian, Swaraj Island is a great spot to embrace your inner birdwatcher. Over 270 species live on the island, approximately 100 of which are endemic. As it’s such a peaceful and relatively undeveloped land, you’ll see colourful plumage whizzing by wherever you turn. To learn more about these winged friends, join one of the excellent birdwatching tours run by a handful of resorts (Barefoot at Havelock, Matsya, Taj Exotica) and naturists (like Earth Song Conservation; instagram.com/earthsongconservation) on the island. These usually take place at 5.30am or 6.30pm. Hold your binoculars steady and hope for white-throated kingfishers, white-bellied sea eagles, Andaman serpent eagles, Eurasian curlews and, of an evening, the Andaman scops owl, oriental scops owl, Andaman boobook and Hume’s boobook – to name just a few.

CHOOSE WISELY

Animish Limaye, marine conservationist and master diver, Barefoot Scuba. @oceanimish

There are 50 dive centres on the island. To have the most ethical, environmentally friendly and safety-conscious dive, it’s essential to go with a PADI- or SSI-affiliated company, as the others don’t have any protocol. Divers who aren’t following PADI or SSI aren’t taking care, don’t know enough about marine ecology to care, and step on coral reefs. They don’t realise that coral takes thousands of years to grow five inches. They don’t realise you can’t drop anchors on reefs, so the reefs break. This is the main problem on the island now, it’s flooded with diving instructors who may be passionate but are not properly educated.

HAVELOCK’S BEST DINING

Full Moon Cafe: Veterans of the scene make you feel at home. Laid-back beachside vibe and great menu; ask about desserts. 9am-10.30pm ₹₹

Anju Coco Resto: Great meals all day, from breakfast to Indian and Western dinners; famous for grilled seafood. 8am-10.30pm ₹₹

Aloha Cafe: Excellent coffee and cosy hippie vibe. The sandwiches and pizzas are the best on the island. 9am-3pm & 6-9.30pm ₹₹

Hashtag Dosa: From South Indian fare to cheap eats, this colourful diner serves delicious idli, dosa and thali all day long. 7am-10pm ₹

From Rock Pools to Rainforest

Hikes, walks and treks galore

There’s a host of thrilling nature tours to join here, from family-friendly rock-pooling (intertidal walks) to more intrepid night walks, where guides lead you through the rainforest to look for nocturnal animals. You can engage a guide through your hotel, but none are more knowledgeable than Nariman Vazifdar (9892403791), the island’s resident reptile conservationist and wildlife consultant. He will happily share the island’s animal secrets with you, just be sure to text or call him in advance.

Witness a Natural Wonder

Kayaking for bioluminescence

One of the most popular activities on Havelock is kayaking in search of bioluminescent plankton, the ocean’s answer to the northern lights. The bright electric blues will blow your mind. There’s currently a ban on going in the late evening due to potential crocodile encounters in the mangroves. Stick with one of the four PADI/SSI dive centres whose professionals will take you out at the safer time of 4am. Don’t expect serenity – with 25 kayaking companies operating on Swaraj Island and only one small mangrove, peak season can be something of a gridlock on the thin waterways. Aim for shoulder season, or go on your bioluminescence search in Port Blair, where the mangroves are more private and peaceful.

Exploring Havelock’s beaches

Hiking, rock-pooling or lazing – it’s all here

Havelock is home to some of the most stunning beaches in India. Marvel at Radhanagar Beach’s sprawling white sands with lapping bright blue water. It gets busy come sunset so head to the far left end to snorkel with turtles away from the crowds. At the furthest north end of Radhanagar, Neil’s Cove is stunning and secluded; a sandy nook that is utterly idyllic and quiet all day. Check with locals if it’s a good day to swim here, as sea swells whip up and the occasional croc pops up. Head to Kala Pathar, on the opposite side of the island, for sunrise. It’s an ideal stretch for serene walks all day, with fallen trees dotting the length of the white sands. It has a very rocky floor so only swim at high tide. Lastly, there’s action-packed Elephant Beach; the elephants have gone but the rumpus certainly has not. This is the only beach on the island where jet skis, pedalos and the like are allowed. Hike there or book yourself a boat taxi to drop you off and pick you up.

Radhanagar Beach | MRINALPAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

RAJAN, THE SALTWATER ELEPHANT

Why would a beach on a remote island in the Andaman Sea be named ‘Elephant’? In the 1970s, 10 elephants were brought to the island by the logging industry. When logging was banned in 2002, the last of the trunked treasures, Rajan, lived out his retirement years with his kind keeper, swimming and grazing around the western beaches. This amazed many a diver (including Jacques Cousteau, who featured Rajan in his documentary), as elephants do not usually venture near salt water. But over the decades, Rajan and his herd had been trained to swim between islands, so he was seen enjoying lengths out at sea until he died of old age in 2016.

WHERE TO DRINK ON HAVELOCK

Something Different: This boisterous beer hall is one of the few restaurants on the island to serve alcohol. 11.30am-10pm

High Tide: Nestled in a coconut grove, the SeaShell hotel’s bar has great cocktails and lounge singers to entertain you. 11am-10.30pm

Narra: This elegant restro-bar with tasting menu and cocktails has visiting DJs and a live music roster – it’s a great party spot. 6-11pm Tue-Wed

Cafe 4: The best coffee on the island is served here in a gorgeous farmland setting overlooking verdant fields in the heart of the island. 11am-9pm

Shaheed Island (Neil)

INCREDIBLE REEFS | BEST DIVING | TOTAL SERENITY

An hour from Havelock, charming Shaheed Island (renamed from Neil in 2018 but it’s not catching on locally) is the more laid-back of the islands, popular with long-stay slow travellers. The island takes 15 minutes to drive end to end, through rice paddies along its bumpy palm-tree-lined road. Before divers came to the island in the late 20th century, the small population worked in farming or fishing, but now tourism is a big part of the economy. The island still has a village vibe; everyone is friendly and welcoming. Its beaches are mostly rocky so not as impressive as Swaraj Island’s, but the diving is better and the natural sights are some of India’s finest. The main bazaar, Neil Kendra, is in the centre of the island and has a mellow vibe. The jetty is 500m north of the bazaar.

GETTING AROUND

The government bus goes from the Neil Kendra bazaar to Sitapur Beach once an hour, but you’re unlikely to need it. The roads are flat and distances short, so hiring a bicycle or moped (₹150/500 a day) is the best way to get around; ask in the bazaar or at your guesthouse. Autorickshaws charge ₹100 from the jetty to Sitapur or Lakshmanpur. Most of the year, the temperatures allow you to get around on foot; just avoid the midday sun.

SIGHTS

1   Lakshmanpur Beach 2

ACTIVITIES

2   Dive India

Dive Tribe (see 2)

3   India Scuba

SLEEPING

4   Breakwater Beach Resort

5   Elephant & Four Wise Men Resort

6   Emerald Gecko

7   SeaShell Samssara

EATING

8   Blue Sea

9   Dugong

10   Pure Veg Restaurant

Vibes & Dives (see 6)

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

11   Avisa

12   Coco-N-Huts

13   Waters Wet Bar

TOP TIP

There’s no pharmacy or doctors surgery on Shaheed and the grocery shops are small. Bring any medical or practical provisions you are likely to need with you. If you plan to dive or snorkel, first aid for cuts and grazes will come in handy, for example.

Dugongs and How to Find Them

A real diving treat

One of the rarest mammals in the ocean, dugongs are also known as sea cows as they graze on marine grass. Around 200 of them live in the waters around the south islands of the Andamans. Your best chance of seeing one – locals say there’s a 30% chance you’ll be lucky – is joining Dive Tribe, India Scuba or Dive India for diving or snorkelling off the northern shores of Shaheed Island where seagrass flourishes. Similar to manatees, the slow-moving creatures are an incredible sight to behold. Should you encounter one, relax your movements to the same pace as theirs and savour the moment. Some divers say you can feel your heart beat in time with the peaceful dugongs.

One Zen Island

The art of relaxation

You don’t have to be a diver to enjoy the Shaheed vibes. Its pace makes it a prime destination for slow travel. Beach hut resorts nearly always come with a hammock and discounts on monthly rents. With one road that cuts through the island, taking 15 minutes from one end to the other, there’s never a rush to make it to the laid-back hang-outs, or to catch the sunrise off eastern shores and sunsets along the southwest stretch. There’s also a new, excellent wellness centre Yukah Balance (@yukah_balance), run by Aarti and Adi who leave their Himalayan base in winter to run yoga and sound-healing retreats on the island.

Stargazing You’ll Never Forget

Explore the night skies

Enjoy the nightly stargazing on Shaheed Island led by expert astronomers from the Habitat Institute, the in-house activity centre at the SeaShell Samssara. You don’t have to be a guest to join this dazzling experience (₹1500 for 90 minutes) on the island’s helipad field, where you’ll enjoy a sprawling wide and unobstructed view of the night sky. Their Newtonian reflecting 8-inch telescope is wheeled over and the wonders of the Southern Hemisphere are viewed and explained, from Saturn with its moons and rings, to constellations and our moon. Most interestingly, astronomers tell you the different uses of the stars in this hemisphere, such as mariners adopting Orion rather than the North Star to navigate at night.

BEST PLACES TO LOUNGE ON NEIL

Avisa: Local favourite restaurant has a delicious menu but it’s the beers, cocktails and DJs you’ll stay all night for. 12.30-3.30pm & 6.30-10pm

Elephant & Four Wise Men Resort: Enjoy good chai at this laid-back resort as you laze in their lounge area, right near the beach. 2-8pm

Waters Wet Bar: Poolside bar at Symphony Summer Sand Beach Resort where killer cocktails are served. Non-guests are welcome. hours vary

Coco-N-Huts Beach Resort: One of the few budget resorts with a beer licence, this spot by the jetty is a popular local watering hole. hours vary

Natural Wonders

Rare sights on Shaheed Island’s beaches

Wandering down the red-bricked path and limestone steps to Lakshmanpur Beach 2 doesn’t prepare you for the wow factor of the two breathtaking rock formations that await you as you turn the corner. Lush green vegetation that gives off ‘Seaside Jurassic Park’ vibes tops the first natural bridge, the busier of the two. Crowds here take their selfies and marvel at the sea life in the rock pools. Venture a few hundred metres further along the beach to the second bridge, which you’ll likely have to yourself. Both bridges are only accessible at low tide and joining a guide is advisable to learn about the intertidal flora and fauna.

Lakshmanpur Beach 2 | VIKTORISHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LIVING THE SHAHEED LOCAL LIFE

Richie Thomas, dive instructor at Dive Tribe and DJ. @richiepelago

Rather than going to the sunset point at Lakshmanpur where everybody goes, come to Ramnagar. The whole southern coast has amazing sunsets and you can chill away from the crowds. The coral reefs are amazing on Neil – freedivers and snorkellers love to see it, carefully, without touching, of course – but you need to ask a local where to go. Ask at your guesthouse, or divers or even fishermen, as there are channels that are perfect to safely enter the sea, but you need tips to know where they are and to be aware of the tides. People here are very laid-back and still shut up shop for siesta between 1pm and 3.30pm. Everyone knows everyone, we all chill together, it’s a community.

SEAFOOD & MORE ON NEIL

Blue Sea: Unpretentious character and simple, well-prepared Indian and European fare, including fresh seafood like prawn curry. 8.30am-11pm ₹₹

Dugong: This luxurious hotel restaurant serves excellent grilled fish, lobster, tiger prawns and more. 7.30am-10.30pm ₹₹₹

Pure Veg Restaurant: This unassuming roadside diner on the way to Lakshmanpur Beach serves well-prepared Indian favourites. 8am-10pm ₹

Vibes & Dives: Cafe by day, vibrant restaurant by night, great vibes, from the music to the fish menu. Don’t miss the butter garlic squid. hours vary ₹₹

Places We Love to Stay

₹ Budget ₹₹ Midrange ₹₹₹ Top End

Port Blair

Amina Lodge ₹ The simple rooms are made homely by the kind Raksha and Bobby who’ve been running this centrally located little guesthouse for decades.

Andaman Homestay ₹ The lovely Noble family offer spotless rooms and a split-level cottage in their welcoming home, just south of Haddo. Daughter Tanaz runs kayaking trips.

Andaman Sanctuary ₹₹ If you’re yearning to connect with nature, head to this idyllic resort of forested cottages, just west of Wandoor village.

SeaShell Port Blair ₹₹₹ This branch of Andamans’ local chain, on quiet Marine Hill, has a rooftop restaurant with the best views in town.

Swaraj Island (Havelock)

Havelock Farms Resort ₹₹ Front runner of the budget options, thanks to the owner’s attention to detail, from the lush garden and the immaculate huts, to your onward travel needs.

Barefoot Scuba ₹₹ The veteran dive centre has bijou two-storey sea-facing huts, as well as handy basic hut options for long stayers on a budget.

Barefoot Havelock ₹₹₹ Nestled in the jungle, this swish resort puts nature at the heart of your experience – try activities offered like birdwatching and rock-pooling.

Matsya Island Retreat ₹₹₹ A boutique guesthouse and oasis of calm, with elegantly designed interiors with natural fabrics to enhance the rustic vibes.

SeaShell Havelock ₹₹₹ The poshest of the SeaShell chain has lavish beach huts and villas between the palm trees. Unwind at the best spa on the island, Sattva, or join team Scubalov for diving.

Taj Exotica ₹₹₹ As luxurious as it gets, Taj’s golf buggies chaperone guests between decadent villas, outstanding restaurants and the infinity pool, which stretches parallel to Radhanagar Beach.

Little Andaman

Hawa Beach Resort ₹₹ This laid-back family-run lodging has a handful of simple yellow-walled concrete cottages. They rent surfboards to guests and cook delicious meals.

Ieshika Resort ₹₹ The no-frills stay hosts concrete-and-bamboo cottages for two or three (some have bunks), and also offers surfboard hire and home-cooked meals.

North & Middle Andaman

Koh Hee Homestay ₹₹ This homestay in Webi, near Mayabunder, is set in lush green rice fields and each room features Andaman redwood furniture. Organic home-produced meals are offered.

Pristine Beach Resort ₹₹ Huddled between palms and the beach at Kalipur, near Diglipur, this relaxing resort hosts immaculate wood or concrete rooms. There’s a great multi-cuisine restaurant serving delicious fish.

Shaheed Island (Neil)

Elephant & Four Wise Men Resort ₹ Two brothers have been running this relaxed spot for 14 years. Snooze in your hammock between snorkelling trips on the neighbouring beach.

Breakwater Beach Resort ₹₹ Easy-going ambience at a small restaurant with thatched huts and whitewashed concrete bungalows set back from Beach 3.

Emerald Gecko ₹₹ Enjoy going back to basics and embracing the serene nature of Neil at this cute resort, where the cabins are basic but the vibes immaculate.

SeaShell Samssara ₹₹₹ This sleek yet welcoming resort is one of the SeaShell chain’s finest, with Balinese design, a fabulous pool and a path through coconut groves to a private beach.

TOOLKIT

The chapters in this section cover the most important topics you’ll need to know about in South India & Kerala. They’re full of nuts-and-bolts information and valuable insights to help you understand and navigate South India & Kerala and get the most out of your trip.

Taxi, Mumbai | PAUL PRESCOTT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Arriving

Getting Around

Navigate the South India Railways

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTiQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Women Travellers

Beach Etiquette

Scams

Nuts & Bolts

Festivals

Language

Arriving

All of South India’s big cities have well-connected international airports serving destinations abroad and across the country, including Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai, Hyderabad and Kochi. Some smaller regional airports have inter-national flights. For those arriving in the south from other parts of India, excellent rail links are a great option, with a growing number of high-speed trains.

FUSE/GETTY IMAGES ©

ATMs

You’ll often need cash in South India. Most major banks recognise international cards for cash withdrawals and there’s usually an ATM (or several) in airport arrivals.

Wi-fi

Most large airports have free wi-fi for travellers, though it may only work in some areas and/or require an authentication number (usually sent only to Indian phone numbers). Some airports have wi-fi help desks.

Mobile Phones

The easiest way to get connected is with a pre-installed eSIM, if your phone supports it. Having a local Indian number can be handy; many mobile-phone networks have counters selling local SIMs at international airports.

Customs

The import and export of certain antiques is prohibited; check before making purchases. Technically on arrival you should declare cash over US$5000, or anything over US$10,000 in all currencies.

For Airports to Popular Destinations

VISA PRACTICALITIES

Citizens of more than 150 countries can enter India by air for tourism purposes using the convenient e-Visa scheme. It is valid for arrival through (at the time of writing) 31 designated airports, including all major airports in South India. The basic tourist e-Visa is valid for 30 days with double entry. You’ll need to apply (and pay) online four to 120 days before arrival in India; the official website is indianvisaonline.gov.in. There are also one- and five-year e-Visas for tourists. For extended stays and non-tourism visits, check visa requirements well ahead, as there can be long waits for specific visas.

Getting Around

Most large cities have plenty of domestic flight links. Railways criss-cross most areas (apart from the Western Ghats) and buses go everywhere. Taxis, ferries, autorickshaws and other local transport fill in the gaps.

TRAVEL COSTS

Car with driver

₹3000/day

Bicycle rental

₹200/day

Train ticket Mumbai–Goa (2AC class)

₹1500

Short hop by autorickshaw

₹50

Air Travel

Beyond the big international airports, a growing crop of smaller regional airports serves plenty of other destinations across South India, offering fast and convenient links with a variety of airlines (including budget airlines such as IndiGo). Note that airport security is tight: you’ll have to show your passport and ticket to enter.

Train

India’s rail network is one of the largest and busiest in the world, and travelling by train is a quintessential Indian experience. Trains are recommended for long journeys that include overnight travel. Suburban trains are handy for getting around the big cities too. See our How To guide. Seat 61 (seat61.com) is an invaluable rail-travel resource.

TIP

For any transport without a fixed price (including many autorickshaws and taxis), ensure meters are on before starting the journey or agree a price in advance.

TAXI & CAR WITH DRIVER

Taxi apps such as Uber and Ola Cabs offer easy access and fixed rates. Uber can be used with your usual linked card; at the time of writing there were issues with using foreign cards for Ola but you can use the app and pay by cash. For longer trips or a day’s sightseeing, hiring a car with a driver is a reasonably priced option.

GEORGE MDIVANIAN/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

DRIVING ESSENTIALS

Drive on the left.

Speed limits: expressway 120km/h, highways 100km/h, urban roads 70km/h.

18

Driving age is 18 (16 for mopeds).

Bus & Ferry

Buses tend to be the cheapest way to travel, with options ranging from basic to comfy(ish) AC services. Buses are fast and frequent. It’s best to avoid night services for safety reasons. Numerous local ferry services run across rivers, backwaters and lakes, particularly in Kerala.

Bicycle & Motorcycle

Cycling is a great way to explore many southern destinations, whether on a half-day city bike tour or on a multiday trip. Motorcycles are a popular way to get around and many travellers hire scooters to whizz around touristed areas such as Goa and parts of Kerala.

Autorickshaw

The three-wheeled motorised autorickshaw (or auto) is a classic part of life in South India – hot, noisy and great fun. Autos are mostly cheaper than taxis and available everywhere. Many autos can now be booked through taxi apps like Uber and Ola Cabs, which avoids any hassle about fares.

How to…  Navigate the South Indian Railways

Travelling by train is a quintessential Indian experience – your visit to South India really isn’t complete without hopping on at least one train.

Whether you want to experience Tamil Nadu’s UNESCO toy train chugging its way through the Nilgiris or embark on the luxurious Golden Chariot through Karnataka, here’s how to navigate the railway system efficiently for a memorable and hassle-free train journey through South India.

Vande Bharat Express train | JIMMY KAMBALLUR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Understanding the Rail Network

South India’s extensive railway network connects major cities and remote villages, making it relatively easy to navigate large distances. Key routes include the Konkan Railway along the western coast, connecting Maharashtra with Goa and Karnataka further south. Tamil Nadu’s scenic Nilgiri Mountain Railway (NMR) was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 2005 – it’s currently the only operational rack railway in India.

Using a Travel Agent

Trying to book train tickets for your trip through South India can often be a frustrating experience, particularly from outside the country. A rail-savvy travel agent can take the unnecessary hassle out of the booking process. Varun of Appin Travels (988 6748090) is well-versed on helping foreign travellers book trains across South India.

Buying at the Station

While you can book train tickets at the station, it’s not recommended for long-distance journeys as trains often get fully booked weeks in advance. In addition, you’ll need to know the name of the correct station you intend to depart from and arrive into.

For example, Bengaluru alone has four different railway stations; its main station is KSR Bengaluru or SBC (the unique code). You can find out these details using the ‘Reserved trains between stations’ link on the Indian Railways website (indianrail.gov.in).

Buying Tickets Online

The Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation (IRCTC; irctc.co.in) allows you to book train tickets directly via its website – Indian Railways reserves a special quota for international travellers between major train stations - select the ‘Foreign Tourist Booking’ from the dropdown menu.

Registering and logging in can be frustrating. To register, you need a mobile phone number (a local Indian number is preferable, but an international number can also work) and an email address. You’ll pay a small fee when you first register. However, there’s no guarantee your international credit card will work.

Or, use 12Go (12go.asia), a Singapore-based private agency that connects with IRCTC’s system to sell train tickets. It’s straightforward and works with international credit cards.

Confirmed Versus Waitlist

On South Indian trains, tickets can either be confirmed or placed on a waitlist. Confirmed tickets guarantee a seat on a specific train. Waitlisted tickets, however, do not guarantee a seat; they only become valid if other passengers cancel their confirmed tickets.

Passengers with waitlisted tickets are assigned a number that indicates priority. As seats become available, these numbers are updated. It’s essential to check the status of a waitlisted ticket regularly, especially as the travel date approaches, to see if your seat has been confirmed. If not, you’ll get a refund.

Preparing for the Journey

It’s best to bring your own food and filtered water, as onboard options might not always meet your preferences or dietary requirements. Pack snacks that are easy to eat and non-perishable. Additionally, you can use IRCTC’s ‘eCatering Food on Track’ app to order food from restaurants and fast-food chains like Dominos and KFC that are along the way.

For overnight trains, bringing your own toilet paper and hand sanitiser is wise as bathrooms might not be stocked.

‘Where is My Train’ is a handy app to download before your train journey.

SOUTH INDIAN TRAINS

There are several types of trains available:

Shatabdi Express

These trains connect major cities in South India, such as Chennai to Coimbatore and Bengaluru. Known for their speed and efficiency, these same-day trains offer premium services with limited stops and include onboard catering.

Duronto Express

Serving longer routes across India, they connect cities like Chennai in the south to Delhi up north. These trains are faster than most and offer various classes of service, from sleeper compartments to AC tiers.

Vande Bharat Express

Notable for its speed, this is India’s most modern train and connects various major cities in South India. Unlike its predecessors, these trains only offer chair seats (no sleepers). The train journey from Chennai to Mysuru happens in under seven hours.

LUXURY TRAINS

Several luxury train routes run through South India. The ticket price includes onboard accomm-odation, tours and meals.

Golden Chariot (goldenchariottrain.com) A round-trip journey around Karnataka that begins in Bengaluru.

Deccan Odyssey (deccan-odyssey-india.com) A seven-night trip exploring Maharashtra, Goa and beyond.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT CLASS

Air-Conditioned First Class (1AC) Offers the most luxurious experience with two- or four-berth compartments featuring locking doors. Meals are usually included.

Air-Conditioned 2-Tier (2AC) Upper and lower berths within an open-plan carriage. By day, the berths convert to seats with curtains providing privacy.

Air-Conditioned 3-Tier (3AC) Three-tier berths in an open-plan carriage. This class does not provide curtains, offering a more communal travel experience.

Air-Conditioned Executive Chair (ECC) Found primarily on Shatabdi Express trains, this class offers comfortable, reclining chairs with ample space and is ideal for daytime journeys.

Air-Conditioned Chair Car (CC) Similar to Executive Chair but with more basic seating. Suitable for shorter, daytime travels.

Sleeper Class (SL) Featuring three-tier bunks in open-plan carriages, this is what most Indians book as it’s one of the most economical choices for long-distance train travel. Although non-air-conditioned, open windows allow for scenic views and natural ventilation.

Unreserved/Reserved 2nd Class (II/SS or 2S) Known as ‘general class’, it has wooden or plastic bench seats and typically way too many people to fill them. No reservations are necessary, offering a real taste of local travel.

Money

CURRENCY: INDIAN RUPEE (₹)

XWORLD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cash & ATMs

Despite recent tech advances, cash is still king in India and it’s best to always have some small change handy, as you’re bound to need it. Most ATMs accept Visa and Mastercard; other international cards may work.

Sometimes you’ll have to try a couple of ATMs before finding one that works. Read up about potential ATM scams in advance.

Credit & Debit Cards

Most midrange and top-end hotels accept card payments, as well as many shops and restaurants, including contactless payments. In general, cashless payments are most widely accepted in big cities.

At the time of writing, online transactions (such as for national-park bookings and train tickets) were proving difficult to do with international cards, despite the country’s much touted UPI scheme – though things may change.

Digital Payments

You’re likely to spot QR codes for digital payments everywhere from chai stalls to hotels, especially in the big cities. Digital payments service Paytm is India’s major company of its kind, though at the time of writing it wasn’t possible to use it with a non-Indian bank account so it was of limited use to international visitors.

HOW MUCH FOR......

a major museum ticket

Indian/foreigner ₹20/500
a guided walking tour

₹1500
a national-park jeep safari

₹2000 per person
a cooking class

₹3000 per person

How to…  Bargain

In many markets and tourist-oriented shops across South India, haggling is still the norm. Take ‘starting prices’ with a pinch of salt, consider how much you’re willing to spend on an item before beginning, and keep things light and friendly.

Autorickshaws and taxis are other places where you might need to bargain for a fair price, though the introduction of pre-paid taxi/auto desks and the arrival of Uber and Ola Cabs has changed things.

TIPPING CULTURE

Generally speaking, it is customary to tip in India if you’re happy with the service. In restaurants a service charge of up to around 10% is often automatically added to your bill.

For hired cars, a tip for the driver is usually customary at the end of the trip (around 10%), and tour guides appreciate tips too. Luggage porters and helpful hotel staff appreciate around ₹50. For autorickshaws and taxis, round up to the nearest ₹10 as a tip.

ANDREY LOBACHEV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ATMS

Most ATMs in India are subject to a variable withdrawal limit per transaction, usually ₹10,000 – worth keeping in mind if you need to withdraw cash for a big payment, such as a car-and-driver bill.

Accommodation

Hostels

South India has some excellent contemporary-style backpacker hostels, which are great places to get involved in local activities and meet other travellers. Expect clean, modern-design dorms (including some women-only), communal kitchens, lockers, wi-fi and social events. Traveller hubs like Varkala, Kochi, Mumbai and Goa have some of the best. Zostel (zostel.com) and Lost Traverse (losttraverse.com) are popular local chains.

Top-End & Heritage Hotels

From custom-designed contemporary retreats to atmospheric heritage buildings given a new life, South India has some exquisite high-end accommodation. Often you’ll get the chance to stay in former palaces and mansions, where the historical setting is half the appeal. Other luxe hotels are icons of South Indian hospitality that have been welcoming guests for decades and are attractions in their own right, such as Mumbai’s famous Taj Mahal Palace Hotel.

Charming Guesthouses

Some of the south’s most delightful accommodation is in laid-back guesthouses, which typically have a few rooms, often with terraces and perhaps a garden. Some are set within evocative heritage buildings, while others are more contemporary. Popular for longer stays, such as for yoga courses.

Boutique & Design Hotels

Creative, independent boutique and design hotels with arty inspiration are slowly on the up. You’ll usually have to dig around a little to find these beauties, but they can be great places to meet local owner-designers and get a taste for the south’s art-and-design side, especially in places like Mumbai, Puducherry and Kerala.

HOW MUCH FOR A NIGHT IN...

a hostel dorm

₹400 per person
a homestay

₹3000-4000
a top-end heritage hotel

From ₹10,000

JASPER JAMES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Beach Huts

The classic Goa accommodation is a rustic-vibe beach hut, typically made from bamboo and palm leaves, overlooking the ocean. Levels of luxury vary hugely, from basic huts with balconies and cold showers to more elaborate offerings. Most Goan beach huts set up from around mid-October to the end of April and close during the monsoon. Beach huts are also common in the Andamans.

SOUTH INDIAN HOMESTAYS

Spending a few days at a charming homestay can rank among South India’s most memorable moments. Now available in a growing number of areas, these small family-run guesthouses offer an uncommercial experience that directly supports local communities. You’ll typically stay in one of a handful of rooms in a local family’s house and enjoy delicious home-cooked communal meals. Options range from small village huts to smart urban homes.

Some of the best homestays are set on spice farms and coffee plantations up in the Western Ghats. Kerala is the homestay capital of India, though other regions have some too. Beware places that advertise themselves as homestays, but aren’t really – it’s best to get a good recommendation.

Family Travel

India can be an amazing place to travel with kids, but there are challenges – traffic, hygiene, mosquitoes and feral dogs and monkeys for a start – and unfamiliar food, climate and crowds can be wearing for small travellers. Cover up when breastfeeding in public, or use breastfeeding rooms at stations and malls; nappies and formula are available from pharmacies.

MEEPIAN GRAPHIC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Is South India Good for Families?

Travel with children in India can be an unforgettable experience for the whole family, and the south – with its golden beaches, lazy backwaters and top wildlife-spotting opportunities – is a particularly popular pick. Kids are almost always warmly welcomed and fussed-over here, though this attention can be tiring for some children.

Family Travel on a Budget

From suitable accommodation to hiring a car and driver, costs can quickly add up on a family trip to South India. The best way to keep costs down is to sidestep peak season (especially in Goa), when accommodation and flight prices are highest.

Best Regions for Families

Goa’s tropical palm-dusted beaches are an undisputed highlight for families visiting South India, with handy travel connections and a wide range of accommodation and activities. Kerala is another favourite for its backwaters, beaches and wildlife-spotting opportunities. Or go for Karnataka, which has glorious beaches, the magical ruined city of Hampi and its own string of national parks where you might spot leopards, tigers and elephants.

MVELISHCHUK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BEST ATTRACTIONS FOR FAMILIES

Wildlife Reserves Spot wild creatures in Periyar, Nagarhole or Bandipur by jeep or boat safari.

Beaches Hit the golden sands, from Kovalam to Benaulim.

Kayaking Paddle across Kerala’s backwaters or sea-kayak in Gokarna.

Nilgiri Mountain Railway Ride Tamil Nadu’s UNESCO-listed ‘toy train’ to the hill stations.

Dolphin-spotting Hop on a thrilling boat trip to spy these beauties in the wild.

Historic Hyderabad Dive into this fascinating city through its family-friendly museums.

PRACTICAL TIPS

Most accommodation can provide extra beds for kids on request, though it’s best to check ahead. A fold-up baby bed or travel cot is helpful for little ones.

Generally speaking, India isn’t very pushchair/stroller-friendly; a baby carrier makes a great alternative. Take care when swimming or playing in the water with kids off South India’s beaches, as there can be strong undertows.

Many kids will love the delicious local treats like dosas, samosas and breads. However, multicuisine menus are readily available.

Health & Safe Travel

TRAVEL INSURANCE

A reliable travel insurance policy covering medical and other needs is essential (though it isn’t legally required). Some adventure activities – such as diving, trekking and paragliding – aren’t covered by most standard policies, so plan ahead. If you need to make a claim, make sure you keep all relevant paperwork.

PUTTACHAT KUMKRONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Vaccinations & Medications

Check with your country’s travel advice about recommended vaccines for travel in India, which typically include hepatitis A, hepatitis B, typhoid, tetanus and diphtheria. The only vaccine required by international regulations is yellow fever, if travelling from a yellow-fever zone. Becoming ill in some way (such as food poisoning) is quite common. Many medications are available at local pharmacies.

Theft & Scams

Petty theft is a concern, particularly in busy and touristy areas, though can mostly be avoided with an appropriate amount of caution (keep money concealed, never carry valuables in back pockets etc). Scams in India change often (check online for warnings) and tend to be more of a problem in tourist hot spots and big cities (see). Beware distraction techniques and unsolicited help in transport hubs.

BEACH SAFETY

Always take care when swimming off South India’s beaches and heed local guidance from lifeguards, as there are often strong currents.

AIR QUALITY INDEX

0–50 (green):

Good.

51–100 (yellow):

Moderate.

101–150 (orange):

Unhealthy for sensitive groups.

151–200 (red):

Unhealthy.

201–300 (purple):

Very unhealthy

301+ (maroon):

Hazardous.

Women Travellers

Reports of sexual assault on women have increased in India in recent years and there have been some high-profile rape and assault cases, including on tourists. While many women travellers experience safe trips to India every year, there are extra safety considerations to keep in mind. For further advice, see Women Travellers.

NATURAL DISASTERS

Recent years have seen several southern states devastated by severe floods, including Tamil Nadu in 2023 and Kerala in 2018. Always check your government’s travel advisory warnings and, on the ground, follow advice from emergency services and check local news reports. India’s emergency number is 112. Heatwaves are another potential concern; if caught up in one, it’s important to keep hydrated, stay indoors and follow local guidance. Consider ear plugs and/or mouth covers in places where air and noise pollution are high.

Food, Drink & Nightlife

STOCKIMAGEFACTORY.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

When to Eat

Breakfast (7am to 9am, though varies) Breakfast is generally quite light, perhaps idlis (rice cake) with sambar (soupy lentil dish), a heartier dosa or another regional staple.

Lunch (11am to 3pm) Lunch can be substantial (such as a full thali) or something lighter. Tiffin (light snacks) are hugely popular throughout the day.

Dinner (from 7pm, varies) Usually the main meal of the day, with rice, vegetables, rotis, side dishes and more.

Where to Eat

Street-food stalls From corner carts to hole-in-the-wall counters, street food ranks among South India’s greatest culinary thrills.

Restaurants South India’s restaurants deliver cheap, super-tasty local staples, along with top-end Indian and international cooking. Some of the smartest places are inside atmospheric hotels.

Messes & canteens These busy, simple sit-down southern restaurants are particularly known for traditional thalis.

Cafes Contemporary cafes serve speciality brews, while roadside stalls are the go-tos for steaming chai and kaapi (South Indian filter coffee).

PROSTOCK-STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MENU DECODER

Appam South Indian rice pancake.

Chaat Savoury snack, may be seasoned with chaat masala.

Chapati Round unleavened Indian-style bread; also known as roti.

Dhal Spiced lentil dish.

Dosa Large South Indian savoury crepe.

Idli South Indian spongy, round, fermented rice cake.

Idiyappam Rice-flour string hoppers.

Kaapi South Indian filter coffee.

Kulcha Soft leavened Indian-style bread.

Masala dosa Curried vegetables inside a lentil crepe.

Paratha/parotta Flaky flat bread (thicker than chapati); often stuffed.

Pasayam Creamy rice pudding.

Puri Flat savoury dough that puffs up when deep-fried.

Sambar South Indian soupy lentil dish with cubed vegetables.

Uttapam Thick, savoury rice pancake with chopped onions, green chillies, coriander and coconut.

Vada South Indian doughnut-shaped, deep-fried lentil savoury snack.

Vada pav Deep-fried potato patty inside a bread roll, with chillies and chutney (typical in Mumbai).

How to…  Find Vegetarian & Vegan Food

An estimated 20% to 39% of India’s population identifies as vegetarian, and South India is renowned for its meat-free dishes, so vegetarians will be wonderfully catered for across the south. You’ll see long sections for vegetarian and ‘pure vegetarian’ (without eggs) dishes on menus all over the place.

Many dishes include ghee, butter, curd and milk, which makes things trickier for vegans as veganism isn’t widely understood. That said, things are changing and a growing number of restaurants now cater to vegan diets as well, especially in big cities and traveller hubs. Also worth knowing is that in the south coconut milk is often used instead of dairy products.

HOW MUCH FOR...

a masala dosa

₹50
a kaapi or chai

₹10
a thali

From ₹150
a speciality coffee

₹200
a vada

₹10
a biryani

₹120
a glass of wine

₹600
a craft beer

₹400

How to…  Eat a Thali

Few South Indian meals dazzle quite like the classic thali. Traditionally served on a round stainless-steel dish (or a fresh banana leaf), these all-you-can-eat meals are a daily staple. The word ‘thali’ also refers to the steel plate itself. If eating from a banana leaf, some people prefer to rinse it with bottled water before food begins to arrive.

You’ll be served small portions of seemingly countless different delicious dishes. Specialities vary from region to region (making thalis an ideal way to dive straight into individual regional cuisines), but you can typically expect vegetable dishes, sambar, pickles, curd/yoghurt and chutneys. It’s a terrific fusion of textures and flavours, all designed to create a fully balanced meal and make the most of seasonal ingredients. Special thalis are often served during major southern festivals like Navratri and Onam.

Eat with your right hand (in South India people use as much of the hand as necessary), mixing dishes with some rice first. When you’re done, simply fold over your banana leaf (if using) to indicate you’ve finished. Make sure you wash your hands both before and after eating.

GAP ROMANIIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ayurvedic Roots

Many people believe the thali has its roots in ancient ayurveda, combining the six flavours required for a healthy digestive system – sweet, salty, astringent, pungent, sour and bitter.

SOUTH INDIA’S DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE SCENE

India’s party queen is marvellous Mumbai, where waves of stylish cocktail bars mingle with Bollywood-glitz nightclubs, laid-back brewpubs, buzzing live-music venues and more. Bengaluru has grown into India’s craft-beer capital, with at least 80 microbreweries. Hyderabad is also big on brewpubs, which dominate its nightlife scene, and Chennai has a growing nightlife culture too. Things are also moving in Kochi (Kerala), with new restopub-style venues arriving. Many bars and clubs have smart dress codes (typically no shorts or sandals) and there may also be a cover charge.

Indian wines are on the up, with much of the scene centred on Nashik in Maharashtra; Karnataka produces some fabulous wines too. There’s also a renewed interest in sampling traditional southern liquors at old-school establishments, including feni at tavernas in Goa and toddy shops in Kerala. Beyond the major cities and Goa’s party beaches, the nightlife scene is fairly limited, though sipping beers on the beach is popular in traveller hubs.

Another local draw is South India’s vibrant coffee scene. Beyond traditional kaapi (filter coffee), the south is home to a wonderfully creative speciality-coffee culture, particularly in the big cities. Most of the best Indian coffee is grown in the green hills of Karnataka’s Chikkamagaluru and Kodagu (Coorg) regions, while the lush Western Ghats in Kerala and Tamil Nadu are also known for their coffee. Bengaluru is a pioneer of the third-wave coffee scene, with several of the country’s leading artisanal coffee brands born here.

Responsible Travel

Climate Change & Travel

It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when travelling, and the importance of making changes where we can. Lonely Planet urges all travellers to engage with their travel carbon footprint. There are many carbon calculators online that allow travellers to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey; try resurgence.org/resources/carbon-calculator.html. Many airlines and booking sites offer travellers the option of offsetting the impact of greenhouse gas emissions by contributing to climate-friendly initiatives around the world.

BLUEORANGE STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Green Stays

For a memorable South Indian stay that directly supports local communities, pick from organic spice plantations and coffee estates, sustainability-driven farmstays, family-run homestays, and more. Kerala is the country’s homestay capital.

Local Crafts

Pick up local crafts directly from artisans or independent boutiques, such as intricately decorated handloom fabrics in Aurangabad and creative craft shops in Hyderabad and Kochi. Or learn how to make Goan azulejos (painted tiles).

GREENTREE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Step into the South Indian kitchen for a cooking class with a local chef to learn the secrets behind beloved regional recipes, perhaps in Munnar or Chennai.

Go trekking in the wilds of Kerala’s Periyar Tiger Reserve, where walks are led by reformed poachers. The park is known for its pioneering ecotourism initiatives, which also include bamboo rafting.

Cultural Immersions

Head out on an immersive culture-focused tour with an experiential operator such as The Blue Yonder or Breakaway, that covers everything from handloom history to traditional performing arts.

Heritage Walks

Take a heritage walk with a creative local venture such as Storytrails, which runs fabulous story-led routes in Chennai, Trivandrum and beyond; Kochi Heritage Project in Kerala’s cultural hub; Unhurried in Bengaluru; or Raconteur Walks in Mumbai.

Out On the Water

Explore the waterways on a low-impact adventure by kayak, canoe or paddleboard, particularly popular in Puducherry, Alibag, Gokarna, Kerala’s backwaters and near Port Blair in the Andamans.

Food Tours

Join an expert-guided food walk to savour the intricacies of South India’s regional cuisines and learn about their history; there are great picks in Mumbai, Madurai, Bengaluru and Kochi.

On Two Wheels

Hop on a bike to explore magical Hampi, colourful Puducherry or rural Wayanad, or go cycling across southern Goa on a rewarding multiday trip.

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Etiquette for Watching Wildlife

Glimpsing emblematic species in their natural habitats at South India’s many wildlife reserves is a highlight. Keeping voices down, not leaving anything behind and ensuring guides don’t get too close to animals are key to visiting responsibly.

Soak up the lush southern scenery over the slow-travel thrills of a local train journey.

Escape the crowds (and help ease the pressure on local resources) in popular tourism hubs by visiting outside peak season.

Trekking Trails

Hit the walking trails in the Western Ghats anywhere from Kodagu to Wayanad, where all the best views are revealed by low-impact adventures on two feet. Or go walking with a naturalist in Coonoor or Goa.

Community Surfing

Catch waves by linking up with a southern surf school, many of which have a focus on the local community and environment, such as Kerala’s Kovalam Surf Club and Tamil Nadu’s Murthy Surf School.

RESPONSIBLE TOUR COMPANIES

Breakaway (break-away.in)

Immersive cultural trips across the south, from textile workshops to art trails.

The Blue Yonder (theblueyonder.com)

Responsible Kerala-born company for culture-focused, community-driven experiences.

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

For LGBTIQ+ travellers, India offers a complex but increasingly welcoming landscape. Attitudes towards LGBTIQ+ rights have evolved significantly in recent years, with the landmark decriminalisation of homosexuality ruling by India’s highest court in 2018. You’ll find queer communities and events, such as Pride, more common in urban areas like Mumbai and Chennai. Public displays of affection, whether you’re a homosexual or heterosexual couple, are frowned upon; being discreet is key.

ALEXANDER SPATARI/GETTY IMAGES ©

LGBTIQ+ Resources

Gay Bombay Mumbai-based community dedicated to creating safe spaces for gay men since 1998. Find latest events on Instagram @gbgaybombay.

Orinam (orinam.net) Chennai-based support group for advice and events. Handy on X and Instagram @chennaipride, too.

Tamil Nadu LGBTIQ Youth-led group advocating for Tamil Nadu’s queer community. On Facebook @tamilnadulgbtiq.

The Gay Gaze Bombay Mumbai-based LGBTIQ+ collective with regular events. Find them on Instagram @thegaygazebombay.

The QKnit Foundation (theqknit.lgbtq.co.in) Collaborative aimed at increasing awareness of the legal and social rights of India’s LGBTIQ+ community.

Thousands take part in Pride marches and events across the country, including those in Mumbai, Bengaluru, Hyderabad and Chennai. The annual Chennai International Queer Film Festival (ciqff.org) showcases a diverse collection of shorts, films and documentaries related to sexuality and gender diversity issues.

LGBTIQ+ PUBLICATIONS

Gaylaxy (gaylaxymag.com) Popular digital magazine.

Gaysi (gaysifamily.com) Comprehensive website offering articles on queer life, culture and personal stories.

Nomadic Boys (nomadicboys.com) Informative gay travel blog, including India coverage.

Queer Ink (queer-ink.com) Online bookstore featuring fiction and nonfiction works by queer Indian authors.

Queer Travel Agencies

Indjapink (indjapink.co.in) Indjapink is a Delhi-based travel agency offering tours across India for gay men.

Pink Vibgyor (pinkvibgyor.com) This Delhi-based agency has been curating gay group tours across India since 2010.

Serene Journeys (serenejourneys.co) LGBTIQ+ owned agency curating experiential travel for queer travellers.

A Queer Day Out

Mumbai-based tour company No Footprints (nfpexplore.com) offers a four-hour walking tour that answers the question: what makes Mumbai queer? The immersive tour is a deep dive into the city’s queer history, cruising culture, and annual Pride celebration.

Accessible Travel

Although there’s an estimated 26 million Indians with disabilities, the country is not well equipped for travellers with disabilities. Public buildings don’t often have lifts, ramps are few, kerbs are high and footpaths, when present, are uneven or used by street vendors. Despite all this, there is no reason why intrepid travellers with disabilities shouldn’t visit South India.

Airport

Facilities like ramps, adapted restrooms and tactile pathways are increasingly common in major airports across South India; however, consistency and maintenance vary at smaller airports. Assistance services need to be booked in advance.

Accommodation

International chains and top-end hotels have accessible rooms with adapted bathrooms and wide doors. Many budget hotels have lifts; but the same cannot be said for heritage properties. Ask in advance and request ground-floor rooms at hotels without proper facilities.

Top Experiences

Mysore Palace in Karnataka offers wheelchair access, tactile pathways and Braille information boards. Fort Cochin was Kerala’s first wheelchair-friendly tourist attraction in 2016; has ramps and non-slippery tiles for wheelchair users and older travellers.

Growing Accessibility

Tour operators like Delhi-based Royal Indian Voyages (accessibletoursindia.com), Disabled Accessible Travel (disabledaccessibletravel.com) and Planet Abled (planetabled.com) are working to improve accessible travel across India.

Kerala’s Barrier-Free Tourism

In 2021, Kerala became the first state in India to make its tourist destinations accessible with its ‘Barrier-Free Tourism Project’ – a pioneering effort to make tourism accessible across the country.

ACCESSIBLE TRANSPORTATION

Low-floor buses in cities like Chennai and Bengaluru make public transport accessible to persons with disabilities. However, not all routes offer the option. Trains like the Vande Bharat now offer accessible coaches – it’s always best to confirm availability in advance.

RESOURCES

The following groups help travellers with accessible tour packages, travel advice and/or on-the-ground support:

accessiblejourneys.com

enableholidays.com

planetabled.com

FOR WOMEN

Tamil Nadu and Karnataka have free bus initiatives that improve the safety and mobility of women and trans women. In Bengularu, Taxshe (taxshe.com) is a women-only car service, while Dovely (dovely.org) offers bike taxis for women in Hyderabad.

Women Travellers

For women travellers, visiting India comes with its own set of challenges. While you’ll often hear that travelling through South India is safer than the north, this is largely dependent on personal experiences and the area you’re visiting. Dress conservatively, be wary of unwanted attention, always communicate your itinerary to someone you trust and plan for safe transportation, especially in more remote areas.

Unwanted Attention

Whether you’re a visitor or a local woman travelling, unwanted attention from men is common throughout India. Avoiding eye contact – you’re going to get stared at a lot, which can be quite unnerving at first – and wearing a wedding ring, sunglasses and headphones can all be helpful deterrents to unsolicited interactions. If you find men stealthily taking photos of you, don’t be afraid to object loudly.

Public Transport

Much of South India’s public transport offers dedicated spaces for women, including compartments in trains and buses, ensuring safety and comfort. Utilise these provisions to avoid crowded mixed-gender spaces, especially during peak hours. Always pre-book taxis from reputable companies or your hotel for safer travel. If possible opt for the more expensive classes on trains or buses; booking an upper berth means you can be out of the way on long journeys.

Staying Safe

The following tips can help you stay safe while travelling through South India:

• Keep interactions with unknown men to a minimum; your friendliness will be misconstrued.

• Always trust your instincts – if you feel like something’s off, it usually is.

• Use a GPS to track your route.

• Schedule arrivals during daylight hours if possible.

• If you feel like a man is encroaching on your personal space, he probably is. Don’t be afraid to loudly let him know.

• Always have local emergency numbers and the contact information of your home country’s embassy readily accessible for added security and peace of mind during your travels.

RESOURCES

There are multiple resources for women travelling in India, including several women-only tour groups.

F5 Escapes

JourneyWoman

The Flapper Life

SEXUAL HARASSMENT

Despite the introduction of harsher sentences after the notorious gang rape and murder of 23-year-old Jyoti Singh in Delhi in 2012, reports of sexual assaults against women are on the rise in India. Many women travellers unfortunately experience sexual harassment, including being followed, getting ‘accidentally’ bumped into and being leered at, as well as more serious encounters. Staying vigilant about your surroundings, avoiding isolated areas and sticking to busy, well-lit streets can reduce risks. Align with local women or groups when possible, as there is safety in numbers.

Beach Etiquette

In India, what you wear significantly impacts how you’re perceived by the locals, and it’s no different on the beach. While wearing a bikini is common on beaches in Goa, it’s less so on India’s southernmost beaches in Kanyakumari, where the beachgoers skew more local. It’s important to remember that India is a predominantly male-dominated society and quite conservative, with an equally conservative dress code, especially in the smaller beach towns and coastal villages.

SURABHI SURENDRA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

What to Wear

Not all South Indian states are the same when it comes to conservativeness. Goa is more relaxed when it comes to beach attire, while other states like Kerala and Tamil Nadu tend to lean more conservative.

While being in a bikini and swimming trunks on the beach is OK, cover up when heading back to your hotel or sitting down to eat at a cafe. This is especially the case in less touristy areas where you’ll find locals go in the water fully clothed. Consider donning a loose T-shirt over your swimwear in more remote destinations – it’ll help in avoiding unwanted attention.

Leave No Trace

Preserving the natural beauty of South India’s beaches is vital so that future generations can also enjoy these white-sand wonders. Here’s how to be a better beachgoer in India:

• Always dispose of your trash correctly, utilising designated bins.

• Avoid single-use plastic; use reusable containers and bottles.

• Participate in local clean-up drives to keep the beaches clean.

• Be mindful of natural habitats by staying on designated paths.

Photography Etiquette

Many locals visit beaches for personal relaxation and to spend time with their families – and respecting everyone’s right to privacy is essential. Consent before photographing is crucial, and it’s not uncommon to see young Indian men sneakily photographing women in swimwear at the beach. It’s OK to confront them sternly.

Shop Sustainably

Shopping small and sustainably means choosing local artisans, responsible businesses and eco-friendly products. This approach supports community livelihoods and reduces environmental impact. Consider travelling during the off-season, which runs from April to November, to support the local economy during quieter times and lessen the impact of over-tourism.

Beware of Wildlife

Some beaches, like the ones along Tamil Nadu’s Coromandel Coast, serve as crucial habitats for wildlife, including nesting turtles. If you happen to visit the beach during nesting season, respect the area by following these conservation guidelines:

• Don’t pick up any hatchlings.

• Keep a safe distance from the nest.

• Fill any holes in the sand so hatchlings don’t get stuck.

• Remove any trash you find.

Public Displays of Affection

Though India is changing, there are still large sections of the population that share traditional values. Displays of affection such as kissing and hugging are seen as disrespectful in public spaces and generally discouraged. To align with local norms and avoid discomfort, keep affectionate gestures to a minimum.

Scams

Travelling through South India is nothing short of an enriching experience. But with the good comes the bad, and in India, getting scammed can happen to even the most intrepid travellers. From overpriced taxi fares to deceptive guides and fake merchandise, being aware of the most common tourist scams can save you time, money and most importantly your peace of mind..

JIDNUN_GALLERY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Taxi Overcharges

Getting overcharged is a common occurrence. Agree on fares before starting your journey or insist on using the meter if using an autorickshaw. Drivers might claim extra charges for luggage or late-night travel. At the airport, go to the government-approved pre-paid taxi stand to get the best deal. You may encounter drivers who tell you they don’t know directions to your hotel (use your own GPS) or say the store/restaurant you want to go to is closed and they know a ‘better’ alternative – ignore them.

Fake Guides & Unofficial Tours

Beware of unauthorised guides, especially at major tourist sites in Mahabalipuram and Hampi. They offer tours without proper credentials and high rates. Always verify a guide’s certification through the tourism board or hire one through an established agency (your hotel can help) to ensure a quality experience.

Shopping Scams

A good rule of thumb when shopping in India is if the price sounds too good to be true, it probably is! You’re never going to find real pashminas for ₹1000. You may also encounter your taxi or auto driver offering to take you to a couple of handicraft stores in exchange for a reduced rate. Not only do they get a commission at every store but the prices are too expensive for it to be a worthwhile shopping trip for you.

Money Scams

From shopkeepers trying to short-change you to tampered ATMs and fake currency, money scams are sadly some of the most common ones you’ll encounter in India. Always use ATMs connected to banks; if you have to exchange money, do it at the airport or at an authorised currency exchange like Thomas Cook.

Paid Blessings

When visiting temples across South India, you may encounter individuals offering blessings for a fee. Some may quickly tie a red holy thread around your wrist or offer unsolicited services and then ask for a large amount of money. You’re not required to pay and can politely decline their offerings. Another common sight is religious beggars walking with cows dressed up in colourful costumes – if you take a picture, expect to pay a tip.

PRACTICAL TIPS

Staying informed and cautious will allow you to navigate South India more safely and enjoyably:

• Carry small denominations for easy transactions.

• Use verified transport options.

• Engage with licensed tour guides.

• Secure accommodation with credible reviews.

• Consult official tourist information centres to navigate common tourist traps effectively.

Nuts & Bolts

OPENING HOURS

These guidelines may vary depending on the state and region:

Banks (nationalised) 10am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday, to 3.30pm, 4pm or 4.30pm Saturday; closed second and fourth Saturday

Bars & Clubs Noon to 12.30am or 1am

Markets 10am to 7pm in major cities, with one closed day; rural markets once weekly, early morning to lunchtime

Museums & sights Often closed Monday

Post offices 9.30am to 5.30pm Monday to Saturday

Restaurants 8am to 10pm, or lunch (noon to 3pm) and dinner (7pm to 10pm or 11pm)

Shops 10am or 11am to 9pm; some closed Sunday

Weights & Measures

India uses the metric system. Additional units of measure include lakh (100,000) and crore (10 million).

Tap Water

Don’t drink tap water in India. Ask for filtered water in hotels and restaurants. When in doubt, stick to bottled water.

Toilets

Modern restaurants, shopping centres and airports tend to have the cleanest public toilets (with sit-down flush and squat facilities).

GOOD TO KNOW

Time zone

India Standard Time (GMT+5:30)

Country code

+91

Emergency number

112 (Ambulance 108 or 102)

Population

1.4 billion

Electricity

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

See india.gov.in/calendar for dates of gazetted holidays. On these days most businesses (offices, shops etc), banks and tourist sites close, but transport is usually unaffected. Most states also have local regional holidays:

Republic Day 26 January

Good Friday March/April

Mahavir Jayanti March/April

Buddha Jayanti April/May

Eid al-Fitr May/June

Eid al-Adha (Id ul-Zuha) July/August

Independence Day 15 August

Muharram August/September

Mawlid September

Dussehra September/October

Gandhi Jayanti (Gandhi’s birthday) 2 October

Diwali October/November

Guru Nanak Jayanti October/November

Christmas December

Festivals

India’s festival calendar is full to the brim with spectacular celebrations, from secular arts-and-crafts fairs to spirited religious festivals drawing millions of devotees.

NIRMAL KARUNARATHNA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Republic Day

Celebrated on 26 January, Republic Day celebrates the founding of the Republic of India in 1950. You’ll find large parades, the hoisting of the flag and cultural activities in many cities across South India, including Bengaluru and Chennai.

Pongal

One of Tamil Nadu’s most popular festivals, Pongal marks the end of the winter solstice and the begnning of the spring harvest season in Tamil Nadu. Each January, this multiday festival features religious rituals, traditional cooking and giving thanks to nature for its bounties. Not to be missed is a taste of pongal, a sweet dish made from rice, sugar, lentils and milk to symbolise prosperity and abundance for the upcoming season.

Shivaratri

Dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, Maha Shivaratri sees fervent worship by followers of Shiva and overnight vigils in temples. Some of the best places in Tamil Nadu to experience Shivaratri include:

• Arunachaleswarar Temple in Tiruvannamalai

• Brihadeshwara Temple in Thanjavur

• Ekambareshwarar Temple in Kanchipuram

• Kapaleeshwarar Temple in Chennai

• Meenakshi Amman Temple in Madurai.

INDIA’S LUNAR CALENDAR

In South India, the dates of many religious festivals change annually as the calendars they follow are the Indian lunisolar calendar – a complex system based on astrology – or the Islamic calendar (which moves 11 days forward annually relative to the Gregorian calendar). Tamil Nadu and Kerala use their own solar calendars, the Tamil and the Malayalam calendars, respectively. Check india.gov.in/calendar for a list of this year’s festival dates and gazetted government holidays.

Carnival in Goa

Goa’s four-day carnival kicks off the Lenten season, transforming the streets with festive spirit each February (or March). Sabado Gordo, or Fat Saturday, begins the celebrations and features vibrant parades, music and street parties that echo the Portuguese colonial-era past, as well as celebrate local folklore and traditions.

Holi

The renowned festival of colours, Holi sees people across South India throw vibrant coloured water and gulal (powder) at anyone within range. In addition, there’s sharing of festive food – expect lots of sweet treats – plus cultural dances, symbolising the arrival of spring and the triumph of good over evil.

Mahavir Jayanti

Celebrating the birth of Mahavira, the founder of Jainism, Mahavir Jayanti is observed with prayers, religious processions and reflections on peace and virtue. It typically falls in March or April.

Easter

The Christian holiday marking the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus Christ, Easter in South India is celebrated with special church services and communal meals, especially in the Christian-dominated regions like Kerala and Goa.

Ramadan (Ramazan)

For 30 days, Muslims in South India fast from dawn to dusk during the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. This is a month of reflection, with emphasis on prayer, good deeds and ritual purification. The daily breaking of the fast features lavish iftars and community prayers.

Buddha Jayanti

Commemorating the birth, nirvana (enlightenment) and parinirvana (total liberation from existence) of Gautama Buddha. The annual Buddha Jayanti celebrations involves serene ceremonies in Buddhist temples, eating vegetarian food, as well as meditation sessions and recitations of Buddhist scriptures.

Eid al-Fitr

Eid al-Fitr commemorates the end of Ramadan for Muslims. Eid is celebrated with great enthusiasm, featuring communal prayers, shopping, feasting, gift-giving and visiting family and friends.

Eid al-Adha

Known as the Festival of Sacrifice, Eid al-Adha is a Muslim holiday observed with special prayers and the distribution of meat to the community, embodying the spirit of sacrifice and aid to the needy.

Independence Day

Independence Day celebrates India’s independence from the British in 1947. Every 15 August, this public holiday is marked by flag-hoisting ceremonies, cultural events and patriotic displays across South India, commemorating the nation’s freedom from British rule.

Onam

This is one of Kerala’s biggest festivals, celebrating the rice harvest in Kerala and the golden age of mythical King Mahabali. Expect snake boat races, intricate flower carpets and large feasts in August or September.

Ganesh Chaturthi

Ganesh Chaturthi involves crafting and worshiping clay statues of Ganesha, the beloved elephant-headed Hindu god. There are processions of the statues followed by immersions in bodies of water, including the sea, temple tanks or rivers. Some of the best cities to experience this popular festival in September include Mumbai, Chennai and Hyderabad.

Navratri

Preceding Dusshera, Navratri is the Hindu festival of Nine Nights, celebrated in September or October. Expect celebrations to include dance, music and devotional rituals, dedicating worship to the goddess Durga, particularly in cities in Maharashtra and Karnataka.

Dussehra

Dussehra vividly reenacts the epic Ramayana’s different themes, with dramatic performances and the burning of effigies of Ravana, celebrating Lord Rama’s victory over evil. Mysuru’s Dussehra celebrations are some of the most renowned in South India.

Diwali

Diwali, the Festival of Lights, sees homes and public spaces lit up with lamps and festivities – symbolising the victory of light over darkness. You’ll find fireworks set off late into the night, as well as children and teenagers lighting sparklers every evening at sunset in their neighbourhoods.

Nanak Jayanti

Nanak Jayanti celebrates the birth of Guru Nanak in November, the first Sikh guru and founder of Sikhism. Festivities include readings of the Guru Granth Sahib, kirtans (devotional singing), three-day processions and community langars (free meals).

Christmas

Christmas is celebrated with festive fervour, especially in regions with large Christian populations like Kerala and Goa, featuring church services beginning at midnight, festive decorations, sweets and communal feasts.

PLANNING AHEAD

Visiting South India during festival seasons requires advance planning due to increased tourist traffic and high demand for accommodation and transport. Depending on the festival’s importance, popular sights and businesses may be closed, finding transportation may be quite challenging, and hotel rates may be double or triple what they normally are. Early booking ensures availability and often better rates.

Language

India is a vastly multilingual nation. Of the 121 languages spoken here, 22 are recognised as official by the Indian Constitution. Possibly because of this linguistic diversity, English is still widely used as the lingua franca. Efforts to promote Hindi, the predominant language in the north, as the national language have been ongoing. However, few people speak Hindi in the south as it bears no resemblance to longstanding Dravidian languages like Tamil.

Kannada Basics

Tamil Basics

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE OF KARNATAKA

Kannada is the official language of the state of Karnataka. It has 38 million speakers.

CARRYING CURRENCY

If you look closely at an Indian bank note, you’ll find 15 languages listed in a narrow panel on the reverse. These appear in English alphabetical order and include Assamese, Bengali, Gujarati, Kannada, Kashmiri, Konkani, Malayalam, Marathi, Nepali, Oriya, Punjabi, Sanskrit, Tamil, Telugu and Urdu.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE OF TAMIL NADU

Tamil is the official language in the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu (as well as a national language in Sri Lanka, Malaysia and Singapore). It is one of the major Dravidian languages of South India, with records of its existence going back more than 2000 years. Tamil has about 62 million speakers in India.

A pronunciation tip: aw is pronounced as in ‘law’ and ow as in ‘how’.

Polyglot India

India’s linguistic vibrancy makes it is almost natural for Indians to speak more than one language. As per the 2011 census, over 26% Indians are bilingual while 7.10% are trilingual.

Most educated Indians speak English, which makes it easy to get around the country, but it always helps to know a little of the local language.

Language Groups

All Indian languages fall into one of four groups: Indo-Aryan, Dravidian, Sino-Tibetan and Afro-Asiatic. Although writing came much later to India, all Indian scripts originate from the same Brahmi script. This explains why both Sanskrit and Tamil have strong oral traditions.

THE south india & kerala

STORYBOOK

Our writers delve deep into different aspects of South Indian & Keralite life

A History of South India & Kerala in 15 Places

Delve into South India & Kerala’s long and rich past

Aastha D.

Meet the People of South India & Kerala

Get to know the communities in different states

Chryselle D’Silva Dias

From Kathakali to Kollywood

Delve into South India’s mesmerising performing arts

Christabel Lobo

The Women Lifesavers on Goa’s Beaches

Meet the lifeguards breaking societal norms to save lives

Chryselle D’Silva Dias

Making Waves

How surfing is opening up new opportunities

Isabella Noble

Mumbai’s Water Heritage

Delve into the stories behind the historic drinking-water fountains

Kiran Mehta

Church of St Augustine, Goa | SAURABH GUPTA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A HISTORY OF SOUTH INDIA & KERALA IN

15 PLACES

The regions of Karnataka, Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Puducherry, the Andaman Islands, Maharashtra and Goa, which constitute South and West India, are exceedingly vibrant and diverse. From temple towns to mosques and mausoleums, the history of this region stretches beyond settlers, colonists and immigrants to its original inhabitants. By Aastha D.

SOUTH AND WEST India’s history reads like an epic saga. For millennia, this vibrant region has been a crucible of empires, dynasties and multiple cultural renaissances, where invaders, traders and settlers – from the Romans and Arabs to the Portuguese and British – have all left their imprint on the subcontinent. This is a land where temple towns flaunt their architectural grandeur. Ruins in Hampi narrate fables of a bustling city life; mosques and monuments such as those in Malabar and Hyderabad amalgamate to form their own architectural order (the Indo-Saracenic); and palaces and forts whisper tales of opulence and conquest pointing to the spice trade routes that stretch back to 2000 BCE, connecting the East to the West.

Temple complexes were a locus of immense cultural significance for ancient society, beyond worship and religious gathering – places of rest, nourishment, conglomeration and celebration. Temples were a nucleus of the arts – music, dance, poetry, literature – and served as a place for theological discourse, collective resolution, social movements and even announcements of famines, festivals, victories and imminent wars.

In modern history, this region is a testament to resilience and progress, and today its ancient ruins and bustling IT hubs sit together. The echoes of history reverberate in every festival, dance form and culinary delight, offering a timeless journey.

1. Edakkal Caves, Kerala

PREHISTORIC CAVE ART

The Edakkal Caves, in Wayanad, Kerala, are perched at 1200m on the Ambukuthi Hills. Renowned for their prehistoric petroglyphs, these are some of the earliest examples of human writing and expression. The petroglyphs date back to the Neolithic era, 6000 BCE, and depict engravings of human and animal figures, tools and symbols, reflecting the life and beliefs of early human settlements. The caves offer rare insights into the region’s ancient culture and its connection to the broader prehistoric art across the world. They are also entwined with local myths, such as those associated with King Ravana.

2. Araku Valley, Andhra Pradesh

ANCIENT INDIGENOUS CULTURE

Araku Valley, at 911m, nestled in Andhra Pradesh’s Eastern Ghats, has been inhabited by indigenous (Adivasi) tribes for centuries. Exactly how long these communities have been here remains unknown; among these communities are the Khord, B Mallis, Bagata, Gadaba, Koya and Savara. The valley boasts traditional tribal dwellings including the Borra Caves, with stalactites and stalagmites dating back millions of years. Ancient rock formations and rich bauxite deposits are central to the regional economy. Culturally, the valley thrives on vibrant tribal festivals, dances and crafts.

3. Badami Caves, Karnataka

CARVED ROCK TEMPLES

Far from simple rock caves in mountains, the Badami Caves are a marvel of Indian rock-cut cave architecture dating back to the 6th century. From inscriptions, detailed shrines and geometrically sound pillars and motifs, the insides of the caves remind you of the expansive talent that lies in the human hand and spirit. The cave temples are carved into red sandstone cliffs that turn scarlet and coral in the sunlight. When you are not awed by the dance of colours, splendid views of the town below await.

Badami Caves, Karnataka | PRASANTH SIVARAJ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4. Shri Padmanabhaswamy Temple, Kerala

BILLION-DOLLAR DEVOTEES

A marvel of Dravidian architecture built in the 18th century, this temple has roots in the 8th century and is associated with the Travancore royal family. The temple gained global attention in 2011, when secret under-ground vaults containing gold, jewels and artefacts – estimated to be worth billions – were discovered. Its gopuram (entrance tower) is 30m tall, made of intricate carvings, much like the sculptural 365-and-one-quarter pillars (representing a calendar year) made of granite. In Tamil poetry, the temple and its surrounding town is often eulogised to be made of pure gold. Don’t be surprised to find an idol of the Hindu deity Vishnu reclining on a giant multi-headed serpent – an advanced version of a common favourite pose among modern yogis, the Savasana.

5. Mahabalipuram, Tamil Nadu

UNDERWATER CITY

Mahabalipuram is renowned for its stunning 7th-century rock-cut temples and sculptures. The Shore Temple, made entirely of granite, came into being over many phases under the rule of different dynasties, including the rivalling Cholas and Pallavas. After the 2004 tsunami, which left cities water-logged for weeks, many structures in this temple town suffered severe damage; restoration was impossible. At the same time, the disaster revealed entire structures and sculptures long hidden under the ocean. Underwater explorations by archeologists revived enthusiasm in the face of new evi-dence – the unfurling of history, mythology and everything in between continues.

6. Gingee Fort, Tamil Nadu

SOUTHERN MILITARY STRONGHOLD

This 11th-century Villupuram district fort boasts a formidable defence system with high walls and intricate fortifications. Originally built by the Cholas, it was conquered and fortified by the French, the Mughals and later by the Marathas and the British. The complex spans three hills and includes massive granaries, gymnasium, temples and citadels. Despite being in ruins today, it is a remarkable example of military architecture, offering stunning views and a glimpse into Tamil Nadu’s diverse historical periods. It’s a great spot for a day hike where you can reach the top of one of three forts (don’t be too ambitious) and bask in the panorama.

7. Golconda Fort, Telangana

GUARDING THE DIAMOND TRADE

There was a time when every diamond in the world passed through India, and Golconda, a diamond trade centre, was one of the important pit stops. A masterpiece of medieval engineering built by the Kakatiya dynasty in the 13th century, it was later expanded by the Qutb Shahi kings. The fort’s outermost enclosure is entered through the ‘Fateh Darwaza’ (Victory gate, so called after the Mughal ruler Aurangzeb’s triumphant army marched in through this gate). Giant iron spikes adorn it so as to guard against elephants of invader troops. A feature of acoustic engineering was used as a method for sending warning signals; a hand clap below the dome of Fateh Darwazaan can be heard clearly at the ‘Bala Hisar’ pavilion, the highest point almost a kilometre away.

8. Tharangambadi (Tranquebar), Tamil Nadu

A SLICE OF SCANDINAVIA

A nondescript town on the Coromandel coast, dating back to the 14th century, Tharangambadi is a quaint hamlet that serves as a reminder of peninsular India’s Danish history. An important landmark is the Dansborg Fort, built in the Scandinavian military style, which is markedly different from other prevalent architectural orders in the subcontinent. Ziegenbalg, who was sent to establish Protestantism on Indian land, built the New Jerusalem church where he now lies buried. The Ziegenbalg Museum exhibits the printing press where its namesake printed the Bible in Tamil, the very first Indian-language translation of the Holy Book.

9. Hampi, Karnataka

THE HISTORIC CAPITAL OF A FALLEN EMPIRE

Once the glittering capital of the Vijayanagara Empire (14th–17th centuries), this vast archaeological marvel is a UNESCO World Heritage site, consisting of stunning temples and revealing evidence of sophisticated water management systems and bustling trade markets. Its Virupaksha and Vittala Temples are known for melodic columns or musical pillars, which when tapped delicately make music. Geologically, this region is in the Dharwar Craton, formed between 3.6 and 2.5 billion years ago. A craton is one of those rare parts of the land that has remained unchanged by volcanic or tectonic movement, which explains all the granite and subsequent monolithic architecture.

10. Charminar, Andhra Pradesh

HEALTH RESTORED

Built in 1591 to commemorate the end of a deadly plague, this structure has four grand arches and minarets, pointing in the four cardinal directions. Hence its name – chaar meaning four and minar meaning minaret. The structure is an iconic Hyderabadi landmark, flaunting its rich culture, a concoction of its Mughal, Persian and Maratha rulers and traders of past. Today, it boasts a colourful, bustling marketplace (the Laad Bazaar) where you can indulge in delicious food, Irani chai, perfumes, clothes and jewellery while trying to spot all the ways in which the number four manifests in its motifs, carvings, inscriptions and lattice work.

11. Reis Magos Fort, Goa

PORTUGUESE MARITIME CONTROL

A fort became a prison, became a chapel, became a museum and vacation spot. The Reis Magos fort is a stunning example of Portuguese colonial architecture in Goa and dates back to 1551. Overlooking the Mandovi River, the fort’s strategic location originally provided control over maritime routes; now it is a great spot for a sundowner, sprinkled with some culture thanks to seasonal exhibitions and theatrical shows.

12. St Augustine’s Church, Goa

COLONIAL PORTUGUESE RELIGIOUS INFLUENCES

Only four out of the original eight storeys remain of the lone tower which used to be one of four of the St Augustine’s Church. Located on Monte Santo (Holy Hill), the ruins, dating back to the 16th century, offer a glimpse into what life might have been like for the Augustinian friars, who entered Goa to expand the Portuguese empire. Today, it is surrounded by other World Heritage sites, such as the Basilica of Bom Jesus, the Convent of Santa Monica, and the Museum of Christian Art (MoCA). Walk around the hill and stand beneath the broken arches to get a material experience of history.

13. Bibi Ka Maqbara, Maharashtra

A LOVING SON

This mausoleum in Aurangabad, literally ‘tomb of the lady’, bears a striking resemblance – sans the grandeur – to Agra’s Taj Mahal. It was commissioned in 1660 by Mughal prince Azam Shah in memory of his mother; the prince was none other than the grandson of Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal in honour of his wife. The mausoleum is fondly called ‘the Taj of the Deccan’ and unkindly named ‘the poor man’s Taj Mahal’; you will find intricate lattice work in screens of marble, octagonal and hexagonal motifs, geometrical precision, minarets and stucco work that are typical of Persian and Mughal architecture.

14. Mysuru Palace, Karnataka

KINGDOM CURSED

Before she died by suicide in the 1600s, Alamelamma, the wife of a king whose empire the Wadiyars annexed when they conquered Mysore, is thought to have said, ‘May the Wadiyars of Mysore not have children for eternity.’ This Indo-Saracenic-style palace, constructed in 1912, replaced one destroyed by fire in 1897, and the royal family of Mysuru still resides here. Since the curse, the Wadiyars have birthed offspring in alternate generations, with the monarch adopting a child from the extended family when the ‘curse’ comes into play. Yaduveer Wadiyar is the current (27th) king of the erstwhile kingdom.

Mysuru Palace | JOHN NOBLE/LONELY PLANET ©

15. Gateway of India, Mumbai

POINT OF COLONIAL ENTRY AND EXIT

An adaptation of Paris’s Arc de Triomphe, this monumental arch was proposed to be built to commemorate the welcoming of King George V and Queen Mary in Bombay (now Mumbai) in 1911.The Gateway of India was built as a zone of passage into the city. Ironically, it marked the exit of the last British viceroy through its arch in 1947. Today, it is a frame through which the city looks out onto the Arabian Sea, a symbol of life after Indian Independence.

MEET THE PEOPLE

OF SOUTH INDIA & KERALA

Chryselle D’Silva Dias introduces her people.

VIKAS SHRIVASTAV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SUMIT.KUMAR.99/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HADYNYAH/GETTY IMAGES ©

MILA SUPINSKAYA GLASHCHENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE SOUTHERN AND western part of India could be a continent by itself. The seven states and two Union Territories (Goa, Maharashtra, Kerala, Karnataka, Telangana, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Puducherry and the Andaman Islands) encompass around 365 million people.

As across India, every state in this region is different, with its own culture, folk traditions, heritage and dozens of languages, and, of course, cuisine. Four hundred years of Portuguese rule resulted in bold Goan-Portuguese flavours while indigenous spirits such as feni – once deliberately subverted by colonial powers to quash their production – are today trendily packaged. Unlike in the north, coffee reigns supreme.

Beyond our obsession with food, the people of this region are different from our counterparts in the east and north. South India is generally seen as more liberal and literate. Kerala, in particular, is known for its high literacy rate (averaging 96%) and a focus on female literacy. Overall, this leads to better job opportunities and a wider presence of industries such as IT, software development and biotech.

The people of these parts (except Maharashtra and Goa) are Dravidian, an ethnic group dating to the 2nd century BCE. Four Dravidian languages are part of India’s six ‘classical languages’, each with a rich literary history.

Like most of India, people here follow three primary religions – Hinduism, Islam and Christianity – but you’ll find large pockets of other faiths too. Kerala has one of the world’s oldest Jewish communities, while in Karnataka you can still find a large number of well-preserved Jain monuments. Historically, religious harmony was a given but with the increasing saffronisation of the south, this may be changing.

The four major languages are Tamil (Tamil Nadu), Kannada (Karnataka), Telugu (Andhra Pradesh and Telangana) and Malayalam (Kerala). You’ll find Marathi spoken in Maharashtra and Goa, while Tulu (Karnataka) and Konkani (Goa, Maharashtra and Karnataka) are also spoken by thousands of people. Although Hindi is the official language of the country (along with English), it is not the national language – a distinction that is crucial given that India has 122 major languages and 1599 other languages, out of which 22 languages are recognised in the Constitution.

The implementation of Hindi in the southern states has been controversial since pre-Independence, with many states resisting the mandatory inclusion of Hindi in schools. In a country this diverse, the debate over language imperialism and the value of the mother tongue is inevitable and one that will not be easily resolved.

The popularity of the southern film industry, though, may soon make Telugu words (especially) an everyday affair. With Tollywood’s revenues rapidly outracing Bollywood, having a man̄ci samayan (good time) is only a subtitle away.

UNESCO World Heritage Sites

Thirteen of India’s 42 UNESCO World Heritage Sites are located in South India. These include the impressive Ajanta and Ellora Caves in Maharashtra, the Chola temples in Tamil Nadu, Hampi in Karnataka and the Churches of Old Goa.

I’M FROM MUMBAI, BUT IT’S COMPLICATED

In India, it is often easy to identify a person’s origins by their surname or the state they are based in. My husband is Goan, with strong roots going back generations in India’s ‘sunshine state’. I’m Catholic as well, but my own identity spreads across three states.

My mother is from Mangalore, in Karnataka. My father is East Indian, an ethno-religious Indian Christian community tracing their origins to when Mumbai was just a collection of seven islands. I was born in Mangalore and still have family there but grew up in Bombay (now Mumbai), a cosmopolitan city unlike any other. Here I had friends and acquaintances from dozens of different religious and social classes.

I’m now based in Goa, living in my husband’s family home, a historical building that dates to at least 1790. The cuisine, the traditions, even the dialects of Konkani spoken locally in Goa are distinct from what I grew up with.

Right now, with my tripartite identity (Manglorean, East Indian, and Goan by marriage), I feel I have the best of three worlds.

FROM KATHAKALI

TO KOLLYWOOD

South India’s performing arts landscape is a mesmerising spectacle of dance, music and cinema, seamlessly weaving together the ancient and contemporary. By Christabel Lobo

Kathakali performance | PAUL HARDING 00/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ART HAS ALWAYS been central to life in South India, shaping its regional identity and fostering a strong sense of community.

The enterprising kings of the far-reaching Chola dynasty were not just formidable warriors; they were avid patrons of the arts. Between the ninth and 13th centuries, literature and the fine arts flourished. Skilled artisans were exalted by the royals, sculpting thousands of stunning bronzes during the course of the Chola reign. The sheer scale and beauty of these creations, remnants of which can be found on display at Chennai’s Government Museum or in the art gallery inside Thanjavur’s royal palace, still inspire awe today.

South India’s varied art styles continue to profoundly impact its regional identity. Annual festivals like the Mamallapuram Dance Festival in Mahabalipuram and Chennai’s Margazhi season are not just cultural events but significant platforms for the preservation and promotion of ancient art forms.

Meanwhile, the innovative film industries in Chennai, Thiruvananthapuram, Kochi and Bengaluru merge traditional South Indian themes with cutting-edge cinematic techniques, creating films that not only captivate intended audiences but also propagate political ideologies – it’s not uncommon for film stars to sometimes enter the realm of politics upon retirement from the movie industry.

This exploration of South India’s dynamic performing arts scene is more than a tour; it is an invitation to experience the pulsating energy of a region that prides itself on its artistic heritage.

Dialogue With the Divine

In the Sangam period, a time of great cultural and literary development that spanned approximately 600 years, the practice of Bharatanatyam was entrusted to devadasis (servants of god). They practised this classical dance form, one of India’s oldest, in temples as a way of pleasing the Hindu gods and goddesses, thus establishing a direct link between art and spirituality.

Kathakali, a classical dance-drama of mythological subjects, originated from Kerala, developing from earlier, more theatrical art forms like Kutiyattam and animistic folk traditions. Dancers undergo rigorous training to master the elaborate makeup and ability to convey complex emotions and narratives without the use of spoken words. Characterised by exaggerated facial expressions, body movements and mudras, the Kathakali performances also feature percussion instruments and vocalists, distinctly captivating the dancers, allowing them to meditatively transform into gods, demons and heroes from popular Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata.

Today, Kathakali performances, such as those at the Kerala Kathakali Centre in Fort Kochi and the Margi Kathakali School in Thiruvananthapuram, serve as popular shows for tourists looking to get an in-depth introduction into the region’s diverse performing arts scene. In addition to Bharatanatyam and Kathakali, South India is home to other classical dance forms that reflect the region’s rich cultural diversity. Kuchipudi, originating from Andhra Pradesh, retells mythological stories through the use of spoken dialogue, singing and graceful intricate footwork.

Melodies that Transcend Borders

Carnatic music’s rich historical context dates back to the Sangam period, with historical accounts detailing performers playing the melodies in temples and courts across South India. Characterised by intricate ragas (melodic frameworks), talas (rhythmic cycles) and kritis (compositions), this classical tradition is not just a musical form. It’s also a spiritual and philosophical journey that has captivated generations by its alluring sounds.

The trinity of Carnatic music compositions – Tyagaraja, Muthuswami Dikshitar and Syama Sastri – stand as pillars in the repertoire. They are celebrated for their depth, complexity and, most importantly, their devotional fervour, which continues to leave indelible marks on the hearts and minds of South Indian classical music enthusiasts.

However, access to and performance of Carnatic music has a lot to do with India’s caste system. Traditionally, Brahmins dominated the landscape, holding the privilege of performing and teaching Carnatic music. But efforts to democratise access have gained momentum in recent years, opening doors to a wider range of musicians.

Prominent musicians like TM Krishna are vocal advocates for inclusivity, emphasising the need for social change within the art form. Organisations like the Madras Music Academy are also actively encouraging participation from artists across different communities, implementing scholarships and outreach programs to lower-income and Dalit students, ensuring that talent rather than caste determines one’s ability to pursue the arts. The fusion of classical Carnatic elements with jazz and rock has also helped to foster a more inclusive and diverse musical landscape by challenging traditional norms and enriching global music scenes.

The Heartbeat of South Indian Cinema

It’s impossible to overlook the rapid rise of South Indian films. Over the past few years, Tamil, Telugu, Malayalam and Kannada films have outperformed Hindi movies at the box office, leaving Bollywood in its wake.

The journey of South Indian cinema is a relatively recent 20th-century phenomenon, beginning with silent films in the 1910s before transitioning to talkies in the early 1930s. Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, among other southern states, swiftly emerged as powerhouses of cinematic story-telling, using film as a potent medium to both reflect and shape societal values.

Cinema is not just entertainment here; it is a mirror to the region’s culture, politics and social changes. Iconic film stars like MG Ramachandran, who served as the Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu, and NTR, who founded the Telugu Desam Party, have transcended their on-screen personas to become political figures, highlighting the unique intersection of cinema and politics in South India.

Today, South Indian films are at the forefront of tackling pressing social issues, from caste discrimination to gender dynamics. They provide both reflection and critique of societal norms.

Events like the Chennai International Film Festival and the Bengaluru International Film Festival showcase a mix of mainstream and independent films, offering a platform for new talent and experimental cinema.

These festivals not only celebrate the rich cinematic heritage of South India but also encourage dialogue and collaboration among filmmakers from different backgrounds, nurturing innovative storytelling and providing space to challenge conventional narratives.

THE WOMEN LIFESAVERS

ON GOA’S BEACHES

Goa is home to some of India’s best-known beaches, where a trio of women lifeguards are breaking societal norms to save lives. By Chryselle D’Silva Dias

Lifesaver, Ananyaa Bath, Goa | DRISHTI ©

IT’S BARELY PAST 10am on a Wednesday morning and Goa’s Baga Beach is already teeming with tourists. There are groups of men in white ‘Goa’ vests, women in jumpsuits and saris, and children of every age running around. Ice-cream vendors make a quick buck under the morning sun. In the background, small fishing boats are unloading their catch onto the tiny strip of beach.

The tourists are oblivious to this tableau and instead focus on taking photographs against the large ‘Baga Beach’ sign on the bank behind them. Ignorant of the tide and the currents peculiar to this stretch of the beach, where the creek dissolves into sea, they wade in deeper, trying to capture the perfect selfie. The red flags indicating the safe swim zone are a mere annoyance.

Harsha Naik is on duty on Tower 1 along with around a dozen male lifeguards. They watch the beach with binoculars and call in for reinforcements on their walkie-talkies. Within minutes, a red lifeguard jeep cruises to a halt. With loud whistles, the lifeguards attract the attention of the men, asking them repeatedly to come out and move to safer waters. The scene is repeated several times during the morning. For Goa’s lifeguards, it is just another day on the beach.

Lifesavers, not Lifeguards

Goa’s unique position as a top beach destination attracts thousands of tourists throughout the year. The 103km-long coastline is peppered with busy beaches.

In 2007, around 200 cases of death by drowning prompted the state government to take strong measures. Drishti Marine began operations in Goa in 2008. The service has since led to a 99% reduction in deaths due to drowning. Over 7000 lives have been saved with intervention and rescue operations. Now, AI robots and a dog squad are set to assist with lifesaving and vigilance on beaches.

For years Drishti Marine has put out calls for women to join their force but the response has traditionally been poor. A handful, though, have broken through negative stereotypes and family pressures to take on this challenging career.

At the time of writing, there were three women lifeguards in Goa: Pooja Bude from Sindhudurg; Harsha Naik from Bicholim, Goa; and Ananyaa Bath from Himachal Pradesh.

Ananyaa Bath spent her formative years in Himachal. She completed her Bachelors in Psychology and English but her heart lay elsewhere.

‘I was more sporty than studious,’ she says. ‘I was a state level gymnast and I played hockey and football.’

Unsure of what to do after her degree, Ananyaa came to Goa in 2017 for an intern-ship with Drishti. She initially worked with its Cruises and Ferries division before doing a course to join the lifeguards.

‘My brother Gautam is also a lifeguard,’ says Harsha Naik. ‘I was studying in college and my brother used to talk to me about his work. I liked swimming so when a vacancy turned up, I applied,’ she says.

Harsha knew her parents would not be pleased about her choice of career so she initially kept it a secret.

‘Gautam used to tell us stories about his work like having to deal with dead bodies and other similar events, so that was a little scary. But once I got my appointment I told them and they were OK with it,’ she says.

‘Initially, it was a bit of a shock to be the only woman around,’ says Ananyaa. ‘It was a change for the male lifeguards too – they were used to walking around in their towels and changing wherever they felt like!’

Things are changing slowly, though, as the other lifeguards get used to the idea of female colleagues sharing their space. Most beaches do not have public toilets or changing rooms so women lifeguards are placed only on beaches where such facilities exist.

Fighting the perception of lifeguards as busybodies out to spoil your fun is a constant battle. Drishti chooses to use the word ‘lifesavers’ to clarify what it is that their employees do.

‘Many people resist our advice because they say you’re acting like a bodyguard. Internationally, everybody knows what a lifeguard is usually, but here, the closest thing to a lifeguard that they’ve heard [of] is a security guard,’ says Ananyaa.

Lifeguards are often the first responders for any emergencies on the coast. ‘In India, most people are not familiar with the concept of first responders at all, so they don’t take you seriously,’ says Ananyaa.

‘We know what a doctor and nurse is, but not beyond that. So more education and visibility for first responders is important. You can be a first responder even without being a lifeguard’.

Challenges on the High Seas

Apart from water-related crises, lifeguards also tackle heart attacks, sunstroke, dog bites and jellyfish stings. They train to handle stranded marine animals like dolphins, turtles and sea snakes.

‘Lately we have also been chasing thieves, robbers and finding missing children,’ says Harsha: 165 children were found and returned to their families in 2023 alone.

‘We also have many wives who come to us saying their husbands are missing!’ laughs Ananyaa. ‘We have to search for them and we find them relaxing somewhere with a beer, completely oblivious to their families.’

Dealing with obnoxious tourists is a nasty side-effect of the job. ‘There are drunk tourists and the not-drunk tourists who go out of their way to make a girl uncomfortable,’ says Ananyaa.

Such tourists refuse to listen to warnings and advice on water safety. To smooth over such communication gaps, cultural shocks and gender insensitivity, Drishti introduced a conflict resolution training program to teach their staff to deal with hostile tourists.

Lifeguards have to fight against gender stereotypes at home as well. Caustic remarks from neighbours and relatives about tanning and getting darker, the use of a swimming costume or the dangers of the job are constantly wearing. And both male and female lifeguards are told that they will not find people to marry since their jobs are so dangerous.

None of this deters the women from continuing their challenging work. In addition to being a lifesaver, Ananyaa is also a trainer, breaking stereotypes by conducting lectures and practical sessions. Harsha loves the water and finds her work rewarding. Pooja conducted her first rescue within 30 days of starting her job as a lifesaver. For each of these pathbreakers, every day is about saving lives, one wave at a time.

MAKING

WAVES

How India’s palm-dotted southern coast is putting itself on the world’s surf map. By Isabella Noble

Tamil Nadu | HUGH MITTON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Goa | POZNYAKOV ILYA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Covelong Point Surf Festival, Kovalam | ARUN SANKAR/GETTY IMAGES ©

surfing, Goa | YURAKRASIL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

INDIA IS BLESSED with around 7000km of tropical coastline, but it is only in the last two decades or so that the local surf scene has really taken off. Generally agreed to have been introduced here by foreign surfers in the 1970s, surfing has emerged with fresh force in India since the mid-2000s. Today the small but fast-growing world of Indian surfing revolves mostly around the country’s southern shores, from wave-whipped Tamil Nadu to Goa’s more gentle swells.

A wave of homegrown surfers is breaking ground, with many of them setting up dynamic surf schools, guesthouses and community projects at wave-riding hubs sprinkled around South India’s golden sands.

India’s Surfing Story

Some of the first waves caught in India were by the late American surfer and Hare Krishna guru Jack Hebner (famously known as the Surfing Swami), who pioneered the scene in the 1970s while surfing along both the east and west coasts. He eventually set up Mantra Surf Club – India’s first surf club – just north of Mangaluru in Karnataka in 2004. Hebner passed away in 2020, though Mantra is still going strong, while other schools have sprung up along the surrounding shoreline and in the beach hub of Gokarna in northern Karnataka.

But it’s Tamil Nadu on the southeast coast – washed by the wild Bay of Bengal – that has emerged as India’s top current surfing hotspot. Just south of Chennai, the small fishing town of Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram – or Mahabs) has found new life as one of the country’s major surfing destinations, but still retains its laid-back soul. Previously best known for its UNESCO-listed Pallava architecture, Mamallapuram hosted India’s first surf competition in 2011, and now has a flourishing surf scene led by local personalities such as Mukesh Panjanathan, who runs the Mumu Surf School.

Tiny neighbouring Kovalam (Covelong), between Mamallapuram and Chennai, has also sprung into the spotlight as a leading Indian surf destination, thanks to local surfers who, in the last decade, have set up community-driven schools and chilled-out beach accommodation here. Now there are dozens of surfers based in Kovalam, including Murthy Megavan, founder of Murthy Surf School, who borrowed his first ever surfboard from Hebner. Each year, this small coastal village hosts the hit Covelong Point Surf Festival, which pulls in thousands of surf lovers from across India and beyond.

There’s more terrific surf around Puducherry and Auroville, just south of Mamallapuram, and local whispers abound about still-undiscovered surf spots in far southeast Tamil Nadu. The neighbouring state of Andhra Pradesh has its own surf scene around Visakhapatnam too.

On the west coast, southern Kerala is popular for its mellow beginner-friendly breaks but also its bigger shoulder-season waves, with the easygoing beach towns of Varkala and Kovalam (not to be confused with Kovalam/Covelong in Tamil Nadu) leading the way. Goa, with its buzzy beach culture, is known for having smaller waves, but is nonetheless home to a lively surf scene and makes a great spot for beginners. In the remote Andaman Islands, a few adventurous, experienced surfers are making their way to a new frontier in isolated Little Andaman.

A Community Scene

Many of South India’s most beloved surf schools have a strong community focus – offering free surf classes for local children, creating employment in surrounding neighbourhoods and organising initiatives like regular beach clean-ups. At the same time, surfing has opened up new opportunities for younger generations in many southern beach-village communities with strong ties to the ocean, where fishing has traditionally been the main industry but is now under growing threats from rising water pollution. Several of Tamil Nadu’s best-known surfers have emerged from local fishing communities, including Panjanathan and Megavan.

The tourism industry is feeding into the scene too, with increasing numbers of travellers seeking out popular surfing hubs to master the art of riding India’s waves. For those wondering about the prime time to catch waves, most local surfers will say that it really depends. From May to October the monsoon brings big swells that attract experienced surfers, but for anyone just getting started the gentler waves coinciding with the tourism high season are usually best.

The World of India’s Women Surfers

India’s surf scene is becoming increasingly inclusive for women as it continues to gain traction, and each year a growing number of women surfers are braving the waves.

‘There are more women surfing in India now,’ says Madurai-born surfer Sandhya Arun, who is currently based in Mamallapuram, her own top surf spot in India. ‘Breaking the societal norms is the biggest challenge. But the tides are changing. There are initiatives taken for encouraging more women to surf. I surfed with the most number of girls in the line-up last year. The energy is truly infectious!’

‘I love that we have a wide range of surf spots along the South Indian coastline – A-frames, points, river mouths, shore breaks, reefs. The surf community here is small, fostering a culture of mutual support. It’s great to witness each other’s growth. And the long coastline has so many offbeat unexplored surf breaks too.’

Among the projects making surfing more accessible for women in India are Karnataka’s Shaka Surf Club, cofounded by India’s first professional female surfer and Roxy ambassador Ishita Malaviya, and Appu Surf Academy in Kovalam (Tamil Nadu), which offers coaching camps for women surfers.

With its fresh energy, and tempting untapped corners, it seems India’s surf scene is well on its way to creating a wave of change.

MUMBAI’S

WATER HERITAGE

Mumbai’s historic drinking-water fountains are easy to miss. Yet their presence speaks to the city’s maritime history. By Kiran Mehta

Kessowjee Naik fountain and clock tower, Bhat Bazar | ANIL D/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MUMBAI’S HISTORY is etched into its pyaavs – centuries-old drinking-water fountains – a few of which are in use today. Many of these architectural wonders bear intricately carved foliage and intimidating lion heads, in stone. A few double as clock towers, others resemble temples with their domes, while still others look like cathedrals with spires. Unlike the Victorian Gothic and art-deco buildings which earned Mumbai a UNESCO tag, these fountains are not imposing. Most are easy to miss. Moreover, these fountains remained shrouded in mystery, as archived city records barely covered them.

Today, many of Mumbai’s remaining pyaavs lie in neglect. A few have been carefully restored by architects such as Rahul Chemburkar. In 2016, Chemburkar raised public awareness through social media campaigns, with his firm Vaastu Vidhaan appointed to restore some of the forgotten pyaavs by the city’s municipal body.

Historian Dr Varsha Shirgaonkar was among the first to carry out a systematic study of the pyaavs in 2005, tracing pyaavs and ornamental fountains (including animal and bird troughs) through history. The project involved sifting through sepia-toned photo-graphs and collating oral histories through interviews with elderly Mumbaikars, resulting in a series of often-nebulous leads. Her study confirmed at least 81 fountains were once installed across Mumbai. When she completed the project in March 2007, she found that only 51 of those still existed. In 2015 she found even more had since disappeared.

What’s in a Name?

Mumbai’s pyaav culture is believed to have evolved when the city grew in maritime strength and population. ‘The lakes, wells and tanks were no longer sufficient to quench the thirst of South Mumbai,’ says Shirgaonkar. So, water schemes were adopted, and pipelines, dams and pyaavs were constructed around the mid-1800s.

The pyaavs’ commemorative plaques acknowledge the contribution of the citizens of Bombay, and the remaining pyaavs continue to tell intimate stories of the people of Mumbai. Who was Ramji Setiba of ‘Ramji Setiba Pyaav’ at Shivaji Park? No one knows! ‘There is no paper documentation [on] Ramji Setiba,’ explains Shirgaonkar. Yet Setiba’s name is engraved on a marble slab which sits atop the pyaav. The plaque reveals that the donation was made posthumously to the Advocate General in Setiba’s name. Interestingly, the ruins of another pyaav outside Kohinoor Mills near Shivaji Park also acknowledges Setiba, by means of a commemorative plaque.

In 2021 Chemburkar’s team restored the pyaav at Shivaji Park, including decorative elements around the basin, meticulously recreated in their original subtle-yellow volcanic rock. Today, even though the park has modern water dispensers, people queue up around this endearing pyaav to fill up their bottles.

Animal-friendly Pyaavs

The city also cared for animals and birds. The Eduljee Furdoonjee Allbless Pyaav within the Bai Sakarbai Dinshaw Petit Hospital for Animals was built in 1889 in memory of Eduljee Allbless by his father. At the time, it cost ₹5000. The money was well spent to create an octagonal stone cupola, featuring leaves and flowers, supported by stone columns; a marble water-fountain bearing carved peacocks sits beneath the cupola. In days gone by, water flowed and filled the animal troughs surrounding the base of the structure. Today, it is non-functional – weeds thrive in the troughs while the occasional stray dog rests under the shade of this pyaav’s cupola.

Further south in Fort is the Devidas Purbhoodas Kothari Pyaav and Kabootarkhana. Built in 1923 – this time donated by a father in his daughter’s name – this pyaav doubles as a kabootarkhana (a place to feed pigeons) and a trough for birds and other animals.

A Precarious Future

Stylistically, pyaavs are a confluence of Mughal, European and classic Indian elements and motifs.

The Kessowjee Naik fountain and clock tower in Bhat Bazar stands at about 6m, with a drinking-water fountain, animal trough, and a clock at the top. Built in 1876 by a wealthy Jain merchant family (the Kessowjees), it is embellished with elements inspired by nature such as flowers, peacocks and elephants. The restoration was initiated by members of the Jain community, and today it is maintained through a public-private enterprise including a temple trust. While the fountain is non-functional, the structure holds earthen water pots containing drinking water.

Similarly, the Parulkar family took charge to preserve their heritage. When word spread of Shirgaonkar’s project, the family tracked her down. They recounted that the MV Parulkar Pyaav at Dadar, which is a simple stone fountain, had been erected by Bai Muktabai in 1940 in memory of her late husband. Concerned that the pyaav would be inadvertently destroyed by development, they approached the municipal body. On their request, the fountain was shifted to a more secure place – inside a garden.

Such public initiatives are much needed, particularly in the case of the Cowasjee Jehanghier Pyaav in Crawford Market. The small fountain bears a carved spire resembling a cathedral. Unfortunately, vendors stash their wares around the pyaav, often squatting on it. But there was a time, according to Shirgaonkar, that Cowasjee Jehanghier Readymoney was the single greatest contributor of pyaavs to Mumbai. He donated 40 fountains. ‘All but six of those remained in 2015,’ says Shirgaonkar. Much like the other fountains in the city, this pyaav can be restored, but public participation, and a sense of civic responsibility, are needed to ensure that it stays intact.

CURIOSO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

“Venturing out through Kerala’s meandering network of backwaters counts among the region’s most magical experiences.”

ISABELLA NOBLE

RAMESH R NAIR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

“Welcome to India’s cradle of art and heritage – Tamil Nadu: a land of ancient dynasties, magnificent temples, terraced tea mountains and picturesque hill stations.”

CHRISTABEL LOBO

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THIS BOOK

Destination Editor

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Thanks Alex Conroy, Alison Killilea, Jenna Myers, Charlotte Orr

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

CRN 554153

11th edition – Nov 2024

ISBN 978 1 83758 693 6

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