Lonely Planet Discover New Zealand
Author: Lonely Planet
Date: 0101-01-01 00:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Travel
Description: 'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other'. New York Times Interactive and inspiring, Discover New Zealand highlights all the must-see sights and must-do experiences through stunning images, insider tips, tailored itineraries and easy-to-navigate content. Discover New Zealand is the ideal tool for planning and experiencing your perfect trip. Our experienced, passionate team of authors and local experts immerse themselves in each country they visit, finding and sharing the unique experiences, and practical and honest advice, so you come away informed and amazed. Regions covered: Au
Publisher: Lonely Planet Pty, Ltd

TABLE OF CONTENTS

New Zealand Cover

How to Use This Guide

Plan Your Trip

This is New Zealand

New Zealand Map

New Zealand’s Top Experiences

New Zealand’s Top Itineraries

New Zealand Month by Month

What’s New

Get Inspired

Need to Know

Auckland

Rotorua & the Centre

Wellington & Lower North Island

Marlborough & Nelson

Christchurch & Central South

Queenstown & the South

The Best of the Rest

New Zealand in Focus

New Zealand Today

History

Family Travel

Environment

Maori Culture

Active New Zealand

Survival Guide

Directory

Transport

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Plan Your Trip

THIS IS NEW ZEALAND

NEW ZEALAND MAP

NEW ZEALAND'S TOP 25 EXPERIENCES

NEW ZEALAND'S TOP ITINERARIES

NEW ZEALAND MONTH BY MONTH

WHAT'S NEW

GET INSPIRED

NEED TO KNOW

Top of chapter

This Is New Zealand

You probably already know how ludicrously photogenic New Zealand is. You may also know that adventure sports rule here (bungy jumping, skiing, skydiving, white-water rafting etc). Then there’s NZ’s antinuclear stance, its rich Maori culture, its passion for rugby, its abundant sheep…

But one pleasant surprise is the Kiwi culinary scene. Local chefs plunge into Pacific Rim cookbooks for inspiration, organic farmers markets are everywhere, and Maori faves such as paua (abalone) and kina (sea urchin) make regular menu appearances. Thirsty? Locally made sauvignon blanc has been collecting trophies for decades now, and the country’s booming craft-beer scene also deserves your attention. And caffeine cravers can rest assured: coffee culture is firmly entrenched.

Indeed, the nation is well fed and watered, but NZ has had a few setbacks lately. The Christchurch earthquakes, the Greymouth mine disaster and the grounding of the MV Rena in the Bay of Plenty have caused a lot of heartache. But shining through the gloom are the All Blacks, NZ’s deified rugby team, who won the World Cup on home soil in 2011. Don’t expect locals to stop talking about it any time soon…

Of course, the All Blacks could never have become world-beaters without their awesome Maori players. This is just one example of how Maori culture impresses itself on contemporary Kiwi life. Across NZ you can join in a hangi (Maori feast), visit a marae (meeting house) or catch a cultural performance, usually involving a blood-curdling haka (war dance).

Also for your consideration is the fact that NZ is a remarkably easy place to visit. On-the-road frustrations are rare: buses and trains are punctual, roads are in good nick, ATMs proliferate, pickpockets are practically nonexistent and the food is unlikely to send you running for the nearest public toilets. This decent nation is a place where you can relax and enjoy (rather than endure) your holiday.

Thermal lake at Wai-o-Tapu Thermal Wonderland (Click here   )

PHOTOGRAPHER: JOHN ELK III/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Top of chapter

New Zealand

Auckland

Auckland Harbour & Hauraki Gulf

Rotorua

Central Otago

Bay of Islands

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Kaikoura

Abel Tasman National Park

Wellington

Waitomo Caves

Akaroa & Banks Peninsula

Napier

Otago Peninsula

Queenstown

Milford Sound

Maori Culture

TranzAlpine

Skiing & Snowboarding

Marlborough Wine Region

Rugby

Surfing, Raglan

Te Papa

Franz Josef Glacier

Hot Water Beach

Aoraki/Mt Cook

Top of chapter

25 New Zealand’s Top Experiences

Urban Auckland

Held in the embrace of two harbours and liberally sprinkled with volcanoes, Auckland (Click here) isn’t your average metropolis. It’s regularly rated one of the world’s most liveable cities, and while it’s never going to challenge Sydney or London in the excitement stakes, it’s blessed with good beaches, is flanked by wine regions and has a large enough population to support a thriving dining, drinking and live-music scene. Cultural festivals are celebrated with gusto in this ethnically diverse city, which has the world’s largest Pacific Island population.

View of Auckland from Mt Eden

MICAH WRIGHT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Auckland Harbour & Hauraki Gulf

Island-studded Hauraki Gulf is Auckland’s aquatic playground, providing ample room for the City of Sails’ pleasure fleet. Despite the maritime traffic, the gulf has resident pods of whales and dolphins. Rangitoto Island is an icon, its volcanic cone providing the backdrop for many a tourist snapshot. Yet Waiheke Island (Click here), with its beaches, wineries and upmarket eateries, is Auckland’s most popular island escape.

Vineyard, Waiheke Island

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Museums

TE PAPA

Interactive Kiwi culture, history and performance, plus Maori artefacts and a marae (meeting house). (Click here)

CANTERBURY MUSEUM

Brilliant collection of Kiwi artefacts, both Maori and Pakeha. (Click here)

AUCKLAND MUSEUM

This shiny Greek temple is a great introduction to Maori culture. (Click here)

OTAGO MUSEUM

Otago culture and landscapes: dinosaurs, geology, wildlife and Maori heritage. (Click here)

ROTORUA MUSEUM

An amazing old building with an amazing new wing dedicated to local Maori culture. (Click here)

Geothermal Rotorua

The first thing you’ll notice about Rotorua (Click here) is the sulphur smell: this geothermal hot spot whiffs like old socks! But as locals point out, volcanic by-products are what everyone is here to see: geysers, bubbling mud, boiling pools of mineral-rich water… And you don’t have to spend a fortune to see it – there are plenty of affordable (even free!) volcanic encounters to be had in parks, Maori villages or just along the roadside.

Pohutu geyser, Te Puia

WIBOWO RUSLI / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Central Otago

Here’s your chance to balance virtue and vice, all with a background of some of NZ’s most starkly beautiful landscapes. Take to two wheels to negotiate the easygoing Otago Central Rail Trail (Click here), cycling into heritage South Island towns such as Clyde and Naseby. Tuck into well-earned beers in laid-back country pubs, or linger for a classy lunch in the vineyard restaurants of Bannockburn. Other foodie diversions include Cromwell’s weekly farmers market, and the summer stone-fruit harvest of the country’s best orchards.

Otago Rail Trail

ANDREW BAIN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Geothermal Hot Springs

HOT WATER BEACH

Dig your own spa pool in the Coromandel sand. (Click here)

POLYNESIAN SPA

Rotorua’s long-running bathhouse has lake-edge hot pools. (Click here)

HANMER SPRINGS

Let it all hang out at this subalpine hot spot. (Click here)

SPA PARK HOT SPRING

Free-and-easy swimming at Taupo’s thermal swimming hole. (Click here)

TOKAANU THERMAL POOLS

Low-key hot springs and a mud-pool boardwalk. (Click here)

Bay of Islands

Turquoise waters in pretty bays, dolphins at the bows of boats, pods of orcas gliding by: the chances are these are just the kind of images that drew you to New Zealand in the first place, and these are exactly the kind of experiences that the Bay of Islands (Click here) delivers so well. Whether you’re a hardened seadog or a confirmed landlubber, there are myriad options to tempt you out onto the water to explore the 150-odd islands that dot this beautiful bay.

Beach view, Russell

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

At the centre of the North Island, Tongariro National Park (Click here) presents an alien landscape of alpine desert punctuated by three smouldering volcanoes. This track skirts the base of two of the mountains and provides views of craters, brightly coloured lakes and the vast Central Plateau beyond. It’s rated as one of the world’s best single-day wilderness walks.

Emerald Lakes and Blue Lake

IGNACIO PALACIOS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Tramps

ABEL TASMAN COAST TRACK

Walk through Abel Tasman National Park. Three to five days, 51km. (Click here)

TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING

Tramp Tongariro National Park and see volcanic vents, alpine vegetation and lush forest. One day, 18km. (Click here)

MILFORD TRACK

Rainforest and towering mountains at Milford Sound. Five days, 54km. (Click here)

QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

Hike through the scenic Marlborough Sounds. Three to five days, 71km. (Click here)

RAKIURA TRACK

Play ‘spot the kiwi’ along this spectacular, isolated three-day tramp on Stewart Island. (Click here)

Kaikoura

Kaikoura (Click here), meaning ‘eat crayfish’ in Maori, is now NZ’s best spot for both consuming and communing with marine life. Whales are definitely off the menu, but you’re almost guaranteed a good gander at Moby’s mates on a whale-watching tour, or there’s swimming with seals and dolphins, or spotting some of the many birds – including albatross – that wheel around the shore. When it comes to ‘sea food and eat it’, crayfish is still king, but on fishing tours you can hook into other edible wonders of the unique Kaikoura deep.

Dusky dolphins off Kaikoura

OCEAN / CORBIS ©

Abel Tasman National Park

Here’s nature at its most seductive: lush green hills fringed with golden sandy coves, slipping gently into warm shallows before meeting a crystal-clear sea of cerulean blue. Abel Tasman National Park (Click here) is the quintessential postcard paradise, where you can put yourself in the picture assuming an endless number of poses: tramping, kayaking, swimming, sunbathing or even makin’ whoopee in the woods. This sweet-as corner of NZ raises the bar and keeps it there.

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Wellington

Voted the ‘coolest little capital in the world’ by Lonely Planet in 2011, windy Wellington (Click here) lives up to the mantle by keeping things fresh and dynamic. Long famed for a vibrant arts and music scene – fuelled by excellent espresso and more restaurants per head than New York – a host of craft-beer bars have now elbowed in on the action. Edgy yet sociable, colourful yet often dressed in black, Wellington is big on the unexpected and unconventional. Erratic weather only adds to the excitement.

City and harbour from Mt Victoria Lookout

AMOS CHAPPLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Foodie Experiences

EATING OUT IN AUCKLAND

Fine dining, cafes, delicatessens – Auckland takes the cake (and the steak, the pasta sauce, the bouillabaisse…). (Click here)

BAY OF PLENTY KIWIFRUIT

Bag yourself a dozen delicious kiwifruit from a roadside stall anywhere between Tauranga and Whakatane. (Click here)

HOKITIKA WILDFOODS FESTIVAL

You’re a big baby, Bear Grylls – eating insects is fun! Detour to Hokitika on the West Coast in March. (Click here)

ORIGINAL KAIKOURA SEAFOOD BARBECUE

Fabulous outdoor fish shack serving whitebait, mussels, paua (abalone)and crayfish. (Click here)

Waitomo Caves

Waitomo (Click here) is a must-see: an astonishing maze of subterranean caves, canyons and rivers perforating the northern King Country limestone. Black-water rafting is the big lure here (like white-water rafting, but through a dark cave!), plus glowworm grottos, underground abseiling and more stalactites and stalagmites than you’ll ever see in one place again. Above ground, Waitomo township is a quaint collection of businesses, but don’t linger in the sunlight – it’s party time downstairs!

AMOS CHAPPLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Akaroa & Banks Peninsula

Infused with a healthy dash of Gallic ambience, French-themed Akaroa (Click here) bends languidly around one of the prettiest harbours on Banks Peninsula. Sleek dolphins and plump penguins inhabit clear waters perfect for sailing and exploring. Elsewhere on the peninsula, the spidery Summit Rd traces the rim of an ancient volcano while winding roads descend to hidden bays and coves. Spend your days tramping and kayaking amid the improbable landscape and seascape, and relax at night in chic bistros or cosy B&B accommodation.

Daly's Wharf, Akaroa

RICHARD CUMMINS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Art Deco Napier

Like a cross between a film set and a 1930s time capsule, Napier (Click here) was levelled by an earthquake in 1931, and was then rebuilt in high art-deco style (the architectural flavour of the decade). Must-sees include a sculpted live-music shell, the suburb of Marewa and the National Tobacco Company and Daily Telegraph buildings. There are some great places to eat and drink here too: wine and welcome are right on time, even if the architecture is firmly rooted in the past.

ROSS BARNETT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Extreme Activities

BUNGY JUMPING

Hurl yourself off a perfectly good bridge/canyon/highwire in Queenstown. (Click here)

SKYDIVING

Head to Taupo, the skydiving capital of the world. (Click here)

SKIING

Hit the perfect powder on South Island slopes. (Click here)

RAFTING, ABSEILING & ROCK CLIMBING

Visit Waitomo Caves for black-water rafting, abseiling and rock climbing. (Click here)

MOUNTAIN BIKING

For 100km of NZ’s best mountain-bike tracks, get to the Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest. (Click here)

Otago Peninsula

The Otago Peninsula (Click here) is stunning proof there’s more to the South Island than alpine and lake scenery. Among coastal vistas that combine rugged beaches with an expansive South Pacific horizon, it’s very easy to spot penguins, seals and sea lions. Fascinating avian residents include the rare yellow-eyed penguin and the royal albatross. Otago Peninsula’s Taiaroa Head is the world’s only mainland royal albatross colony: visit in January or February to see these magnificent birds.

Yellow-eyed penguin

GRANT DIXON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Queenstown

Queenstown (Click here) may be world-renowned as the birthplace of bungy jumping, but there’s more to NZ’s adventure hub than leaping off a bridge wearing a giant rubber band. Against the scenic backdrop of the jagged indigo profile of the Remarkables mountain range, travellers can spend days skiing, tramping or mountain biking, before dining in cosmopolitan restaurants or partying in some of NZ’s best bars. Next-day options include hang gliding, kayaking or river rafting, or easing into your Kiwi holiday with sleepier detours to Arrowtown or Glenorchy.

Bungy jumping from Kawarau Bridge

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Milford Sound

Fingers crossed you’ll be lucky enough to see Milford Sound (Click here) on a clear, sunny day. That’s definitely when the world-beating collage of waterfalls, verdant cliffs and peaks, and dark cobalt waters is at its best. More likely though is the classic Fiordland combination of mist and drizzle, with the iconic snow-capped profile of Mitre Peak revealed slowly through shimmering sheets of precipitation. Either way, keep your eyes peeled for seals and dolphins, especially if you’re exploring NZ’s most famous fiord by kayak.

Fur seal

GARETH MCCORMACK / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Beaches

KAREKARE

Classic black-sand beach west of Auckland, with wild surf. (Click here)

HAHEI

Iconic Kiwi beach experience on the Coromandel Peninsula. (Click here)

ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK

Warm, clear waters and golden sand beaches (try Marahau). (Click here)

MANU BAY

NZ’s most famous surf break (seen Endless Summer?) peels ashore south of Raglan. (Click here)

ST KILDA & ST CLAIR

Chilly or refreshing, depending on your mood, Dunedin’s twin beaches have fab rolling surf. (Click here)

Ferry cruising Milford Sound;

GERARD WALKER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Maori Culture

NZ’s indigenous Maori culture is accessible and engaging: join in a haka (war dance); chow down at a traditional hangi (Maori feast cooked in the ground); carve a pendant from bone or pounamu (jade); learn some Maori language; or check out an authentic cultural performance with song, dance, legends, arts and crafts. Big-city and regional museums around NZ are crammed with Maori artefacts and historical items (Rotorua Museum has a fabulous display; Click here), but this is a living culture: vibrant, potent and contemporary.

PETER BENNETTS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Maori Experiences

WHAKAREWAREWA THERMAL VILLAGE

Opportunities to check out weaving, carving and cultural performances abound in Rotorua. (Click here)

ONE TREE HILL (MAUNGAKIEKIE)

This volcanic cone (one of the many in Auckland) is an important historical site. (Click here)

TE PAPA

Maori marae (meeting house), galleries and guided tours at NZ’s national museum. (Click here)

RAGLAN BONE CARVING STUDIO

One of several hands-on bone-carving studios around NZ. (Click here)

TranzAlpine

In less than five hours, the TranzAlpine (Click here) crosses from the Pacific to the Tasman Sea. Leaving Christchurch, the train speeds across the Canterbury Plains to the foothills of the Southern Alps. After a cavalcade of tunnels and viaducts, it enters broad Waimakariri Valley. A stop at Arthur’s Pass Village is followed by the 8.5km-long Otira tunnel through NZ’s alpine spine. Then it’s down through the Taramakau valley, past Lake Brunner and into Greymouth.

TranzAlpine,    Arthur's Pass

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Skiing & Snowboarding

NZ is studded with some massive mountains, and you’re guaranteed to find decent snow right through the winter season (June to October). Most of the famous slopes are on the South Island: hip Queenstown (Click here) and hippie Wanaka are where you want to be, with iconic ski runs such as Coronet Peak, the Remarkables and Treble Cone close at hand. There are also dedicated snowboarding and cross-country (Nordic) snow parks here. And on the North Island, Mt Ruapehu offers the chance to ski down a volcano!

Skiing, Treble Cone

CHRISTIAN ASLUND / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Marlborough Wine Region

It’s hard to avoid Marlborough sauvignon blanc in the world’s liquor stores these days – crisp, zesty and drinkable. Whether it’s on a minibus, a bicycle or the back seat of someone’s car, touring the cellar doors of the Marlborough Wine Region (Click here) near Blenheim is a decadent delight. And it’s not just sav blanc on offer: there’s also plenty of cool-climate pinot noir, chardonnay, riesling and pinot gris to swill around the back of your palate.

Vineyard near Renwick

/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Wine Regions

MARLBOROUGH

The country’s biggest and best. Don’t be picky, just drink some sauvignon blanc (or some pinot gris, chardonnay, gewürztraminer…). (Click here)

MARTINBOROUGH

A small-but-sweet wine region a day trip from Wellington: easy cycling and easy-drinking pinot noir. (Click here)

WAIHEKE ISLAND

Auckland’s favourite weekend playground produces Bordeaux-style reds and rosé. (Click here)

GIBBSTON VALLEY

A valley with a meandering river (of wine?) near Queenstown. (Click here)

Rugby

Rugby is NZ’s national game and governing preoccupation. If your timing’s good you might catch the revered national team (and reigning world champions), the All Blacks, in action. The ‘ABs’ are resident gods: mention Richie McCaw or Dan Carter in any conversation and you’ll win friends for life! Or just watch some Saturday-morning kids chasing a ball around a suburban field, or yell along with the locals in a small-town pub as the big men collide on the big screen. The New Zealand Rugby Museum (Click here) in Palmerston North is well worth a detour.

AMOS CHAPPLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Raglan Surf Safari

Laid-back, hippified and surprisingly multicultural, little Raglan (Click here) is the mythical surf village you always knew was there but could never find. A few kilometres south of town are some of the best point breaks on the planet: join the hordes of floating rubber people at Manu Bay, Whale Bay and Indicators. We can’t guarantee the perfect wave, but when a southwesterly swell is running, you’ll be in line for some seriously looong rides.

PAUL KENNEDY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

City Life

LIVE MUSIC IN DUNEDIN

Reggae, garage, dub, hip-hop…Dunedin rocks. (Click here)

WELLINGTON’S CAFFEINE SCENE

Wide-awake Wellington cranks out serious coffee. (Click here)

SHOP IN AUCKLAND

Buy up big brands, rummage for retro or browse the bookshelves. (Click here)

PARTY IN QUEENSTOWN

Cuddle-up with après-ski drinkers. (Click here)

CHRISTCHURCH ON THE REBOUND

Resourceful and inspirational, ‘Chch’ is reinventing itself postquake. (Click here)

Te Papa

Dominating the Wellington waterfront, Te Papa (Click here) is New Zealand’s national museum. It’s an inspiring, high-tech, interactive repository of historical and cultural artefacts…and best of all, it’s free! Expect plenty of Maori artefacts and culture (including a marae), engaging tours (a great way to see a lot in a short time), plenty of kid-friendly exhibits and a slew of innovative displays celebrating all things Kiwi. Don’t miss the earthquake simulator, and the national art collection.

JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Franz Josef Glacier

The spectacular glaciers of Franz Josef (Click here) and Fox are remarkable for many reasons, including their rates of accumulation and descent, and their improbable proximity to both the loftiest peaks of the Southern Alps and the Tasman Sea about 10km away. Get almost face to face with them on one of several short walks, or take a hike on the ice with Franz Josef or Fox Glacier Guides. The ultimate encounter is on a scenic flight, which often also provides grandstand views of Mt Cook, Westland forest and a seemingly endless ocean.

Walkers on Franz Josef Glacier

GLENN VAN DER KNIJFF / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Hot Water Beach

Get yourself into hot water on the Coromandel Peninsula at the legendary Hot Water Beach (Click here), where warm geothermal springs bubble up through the sand. If you time your arrival to within a couple of hours either side of low tide, with some creative digging you can kick back in your custom-made spa pool and watch the surf lap along the beach. If you don’t carry a shovel around with you in your luggage, you can hire one from a local cafe.

JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Markets

DUNEDIN FARMERS MARKET

Organic fruit and veg, Green Man beer, robust coffee and homemade pies. (Click here)

OTARA MARKET

Auckland’s multicultural Otara Market brims with buskers, arts and crafts, fashions and food. (Click here)

ROTORUA NIGHT MARKET

Gourmet night-bites, plus buskers and local crafts. (Click here)

WELLINGTON FARMERS MARKET

Wellington’s obligatory fruit-and-veg pit stop. (Click here)

Aoraki/Mt Cook

At a cloud-piercing 3754m, Aoraki (Click here) is New Zealand’s crowning peak. Unless you’re a professional mountaineer it’s unlikely you’ll be scaling the summit, but there are plenty of other ways to experience this massive mount: take a walk around the rumbling glaciers and moody lakes dappling its flanks, carve up the snow on a ski trip, or get closer to the top on an eye-popping scenic flight. Afterwards, retreat to your accommodation and warm up by an open fire.

JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Top of chapter

New Zealand’s Top Itineraries

Auckland to the Bay of Islands City to the Sea

If you’re on a tight, five-day schedule with jetlag bending your mind, focus on Auckland’s must-see sights, eat and drink your way around town, ferry across Auckland Harbour to Waiheke Island, then maybe take an overnight trip north to the Bay of Islands.

Central Auckland (Click here)

One of the world’s great nautical cities, Auckland offers islands, beaches and access to both an ocean and a sea, plus stellar bars and restaurants. Don’t miss the Maori and South Pacific Islander exhibits at Auckland Museum, a stroll across the Domain to K Rd for lunch, a visit to the grand Auckland Art Gallery (architecture boffins will enjoy the new extension) and the iconic Sky Tower.

CENTRAL AUCKLAND PONSONBY

10 minutes From central Auckland via Pitt St to Ponsonby Rd. 15 minutes Inner Link bus Queen St to Ponsonby Rd.

Ponsonby (Click here)

Auckland is a city of enclaves, each with its own flavour. Parnell fosters an affluent ‘village’ vibe; Newmarket is festooned with boutiques; and across the harbour, Devonport resembles a 19th-century maritime village…but Ponsonby wins on the foodie front. Head straight for Ponsonby Rd: Thai, Japanese and Italian, plus cafes and wine bars – perfect for a meal any time of day.

PONSONBY WAIHEKE ISLAND

15 minutes Inner Link bus Ponsonby Rd to central Auckland, then 50 minutes from Quay St to Waiheke Island.

Waiheke Island (Click here)

Steeped in ocean-going credibility, Auckland Harbour is awash with yachts and ferries. Take the ferry over to Rangitoto Island, then chug into Devonport for a meal: if the weather’s good check out Cheltenham Beach while you’re in the ’hood. Afterwards, ferry-hop to Waiheke Island for some fabulous wineries and beaches.

WAIHEKE ISLAND BAY OF ISLANDS

50 minutes From Waiheke Island to Quay St, then or three hours From Auckland to Bay of Islands via SH1 and SH11.

Bay of Islands (Click here)

A few hours’ drive north of Auckland (make it an overnighter) is the utterly photogenic Bay of Islands. Like a tourism brochure in 3D, the area is a yachting, snorkelling and beach-bumming paradise. If you’ve never swum with dolphins or set-sail for an uninhabited island (take your pick from 150 of them!), this is the place to fulfil your sea-salty fantasies.

Queenstown to Kaikoura Winter Wanderer

Yes, we know a whole bunch of you are here for one thing only: snow! Hit Queenstown on the South Island for perfect powder, and great bars and restaurants. Further north, Kaikoura’s winter days are crisp, the whales are wallowing and the crowds are absent.

Queenstown (Click here)

Take a direct flight to Queenstown and get ready for some seriously snowy fun, with access to world-class skiing, cool bars and restaurants, and a kickin’ nocturnal scene. If you’re here in late June or early July, the Queenstown Winter Festival goes berserk, with live music, comedy, parades and lots of family fun. When you’ve had your fill of snowy slopes, the extreme activities on offer in Queenstown will keep the winter chills at bay: try kayaking, paragliding, jetboating, white-water rafting, skydiving or mountain biking.

On the ski front, Coronet Peak is the region’s oldest ski field, with a multimillion dollar snow-making system, treeless slopes, consistent gradient and excellent skiing for all levels (great for snowboarders, too). The visually remarkable Remarkables are more family-friendly – look for the sweeping run called ‘Homeward Bound’.

QUEENSTOWN WANAKA
or One hour From Queenstown to Wanaka along Cardrona Valley Rd.

Wanaka (Click here)

As an alternative to Queenstown, head to Wanaka. It’s like Queenstown’s little brother – all the benefits without the hype. Ski fields near here include Treble Cone, with steep intermediate and advanced slopes, plus snowboarding half-pipes and a terrain park; Cardrona, with high-capacity chairlifts, beginners’ tows and extreme snowboarding terrain; Snow Farm New Zealand, the country’s only commercial Nordic (cross-country) ski area; and Snow Park, the only dedicated freestyle ski and board area in New Zealand, with pipes, terrain parks, boxes and rails. Want something different? Take an overnight trip to Westland Tai Poutini National Park on the West Coast to check out Franz Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier.

WANAKA KAIKOURA

One hour From Wanaka to Christchurch, then 2½ hours or three hours Christchurch to Kaikoura.

Kaikoura (Click here)

From Wanaka, fly north to Christchurch, a city rebuilding and reinventing itself after the 2010 earthquakes – peek out the aeroplane window as you pass massive, brooding Aoraki/Mt Cook. From Christchurch, drive for a few hours north to Kaikoura, a photogenic town on the South Island’s northwest coast. In winter (especially), migrating humpback and sperm whales come close to the shore – check them out up close on a whale-watching tour while the summer crowds are a million miles (or at least a few months) away.

Auckland to Queenstown Kiwi Classics

Classy cities, geothermal eruptions, fantastic wine, Maori culture, glaciers, extreme activities, isolated beaches and forests. These are just a few of NZ’s favourite things, and what you’ll want to see if you’re a first-time, short-trip visitor. It’s the best of the country, north and south.

Auckland & Around (Click here)

The City of Sails, Auckland is a South Pacific melting pot – spend a few days shopping, eating, drinking and experiencing NZ at its most cosmopolitan. Need a night out of town? Truck north to the winterless Bay of Islands for sailing, surfing, kayaking and scuba-diving, or scoot southeast to explore the forests and beaches of the Coromandel Peninsula.

AUCKLAND ROTORUA
or Three hours From Auckland to Rotorua via SH1. 40 minutes From Auckland to Rotorua.

Rotorua (Click here)

Further south is Rotorua, a real geothermal hot spot: giggle at volcanic mud bubbles, gasp as geothermal geysers blast boiling water into the sky, and get a nose full of rotten-egg gas. Rotorua is also a great place to experience Maori culture via a haka (war dance), hangi (feast) or legend-loaded cultural performance.

ROTORUA WELLINGTON

Six hours From Rotorua to Wellington via SH1. 1¼ hours From Rotorua to Wellington.

Wellington (Click here)

Way down in Wellington, the coffee’s hot, the beer’s cold and wind from the politicians generates its own low-pressure system. Clinging to the hillsides like a mini San Francisco, NZ’s capital city is the place for serious arts, live music and hip street culture. Don’t miss the boutiques, bars and cafes on Cuba St.

WELLINGTON MARLBOROUGH WINE REGION

3¼ hours From Wellington to Picton, then or 25 minutes from Picton to Blenheim.

Marlborough Wine Region (Click here)

Swan over to the South Island for a few days (even the ferry trip is scenic) and experience the best the south has to offer. Start with a tour through the Marlborough Wine Region – the sauvignon blanc they produce in this cool microclimate is world class. The mirror-perfect inlets and tree-cloaked headlands of the Marlborough Sounds make a great day-trip from here.

MARLBOROUGH WINE REGION QUEENSTOWN

Five hours From Blenheim to Christchurch, then Six hours Christchurch to Queenstown. Three hours From Blenheim to Queenstown via Christchurch.

Queenstown (Click here)

Further south is Christchurch : the South Island’s biggest city is being born again after the 2010 earthquakes. From here you can meander southwest to bungy- and ski-obsessed party town Queenstown, a must-visit for adrenaline junkies. Hop on a flight directly back to Auckland to round out your Kiwi adventure.

Auckland to Auckland Northern Exposure

Three-quarters of New Zealanders live on the North Island – time to find out why! Auckland is the obvious launch pad, but beyond the big smoke you’ll discover ancient forests, erupting geothermal geysers, art-deco architecture, caves, islands and salubrious wine regions.

Auckland (Click here)

Begin in Auckland, NZ’s biggest city. There’s not much you can’t see, eat or buy here (prime your credit card). Eat streets abound: our faves are Ponsonby Rd in Ponsonby, K Rd in Newton, and New North Rd in Kingsland. Hike up Maungakiekie (One Tree Hill) to burn off resultant calories, and don’t miss Auckland Art Gallery and Auckland Museum.

AUCKLAND BAY OF ISLANDS
or Three hours From Auckland to Bay of Islands via SH1 and SH11.

Bay of Islands (Click here)

Heading north, you’ll reach the magnificent Bay of Islands : spend a day bobbing around on a yacht, snorkelling or dolphin-swimming. Adventurous, road-eager types might want to continue to the rugged northern tip of NZ: Cape Reinga is shrouded in solitude and Maori lore.

BAY OF ISLANDS NAPIER

8½ hours From Bay of Islands to Napier via Rotorua, Mt Maunganui or Coromandel Peninsula. Three hours From Whangarei to Napier via Auckland.

Napier (Click here)

It’s a long haul from the Bay of Islands to Napier on the East Coast: break up the journey with a night in geothermal Rotorua, surfie Mt Maunganui in the Bay of Plenty, or one of the laid-back beach towns on the Coromandel Peninsula. Once you roll into Napier, check out the amazing art-deco architecture and the surrounding chardonnay vineyards of Hawke’s Bay Wine Country.

NAPIER WELLINGTON
or 4½ hours From Napier to Wellington via SH2. One hour From Napier to Wellington.

Wellington (Click here)

Boot it south into the sheepy/winey Wairarapa region (try the superb pinot noir produced around Martinborough), before soaring over the cloud-wrapped Rimutaka Range into hipper-than-hip Wellington. Don’t miss Te Papa, NZ’s national museum, and a night on the tiles along Cuba St or Courtenay Pl.

WELLINGTON AUCKLAND

10 hours From Wellington to Auckland via Mt Taranaki, Raglan, Hamilton or Waitomo Caves. One hour From Wellington to Auckland.

Auckland (Click here)

Take the northwesterly route back to Auckland slow and easy, passing the epic volcanic cone of Mt Taranaki en route. Hit the point breaks near Raglan if you’re into surfing, or go underground at Waitomo Caves for glorious glow-worms and black-water rafting. Hamilton, NZ’s fourth-biggest town, has a happening nocturnal scene if you’re craving some city-sized action.

Auckland to Christchurch Icons & Beyond

Check some big-ticket attractions off your list on this trip, with some kayaking, caving and tramping breaking up the road trip. With a couple of weeks at your disposal, you’ll really be able to switch into holiday mode, embrace nature and savour the flavours of dual-island travel.

Auckland (Click here)

Cruise the hip, inner-city streets of Auckland : hike up One Tree Hill (Maungakiekie), ride a bike along Tamaki Dr then take your pick of myriad lunch spots along K Rd or in Kingsland. Dinner at Ponsonby will attune your tastebuds to NZ’s brand of ‘Pacific fusion’ cooking. Afterwards, hit the bars around Viaduct Harbour or Vulcan La.

AUCKLAND WAITOMO CAVES
or Three hours From Auckland to Waitomo Caves via SH1 and SH39.

Waitomo Caves (Click here)

The amazing Waitomo Caves are an underground labyrinth of glow-worm-filled caverns. Don a wet suit and headlamp and dive in for black-water rafting, abseiling or floating along on an inner-tube in the inky darkness. There are a couple of good eateries to refuel at afterwards.

WAITOMO CAVES TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK

Two hours From Waitomo Caves to Taupo via SH30.

Taupo & Tongariro National Park (Click here)

From Waitomo, hook southeast to progressive Taupo and try skydiving (you know you want to) or go tramping around the triple-peaked, volcanic wilderness of Tongariro National Park. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is one of the best day walks in NZ.

TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK WELLINGTON
or Five hours From Taupo to Wellington via SH1.

Wellington (Click here)

Watch the nocturnal freak show pass by in late-night, caffeinated Wellington (a great place to prop up the bar and try some NZ craft beers). Spend a few hours wandering through NZ’s national museum, Te Papa, then roll onto the ferry for the trip across Cook Strait to the South Island.

WELLINGTON MARLBOROUGH WINE REGION

3¼ hours From Wellington to Picton, then or 25 minutes From Picton to Blenheim.

Marlborough Wine Region (Click here)

Track west from pretty Picton and disappear into the leafy vine-rows and welcoming cellar-door tasting rooms of the Marlborough Wine Region. If you have an extra day, explore the waterways and woodlands of the Marlborough Sounds, or continue west to the golden-sand bays of Abel Tasman National Park.

MARLBOROUGH WINE REGION QUEENSTOWN

11 hours From Marlborough Wine Region to Queenstown via SH6.

Queenstown (Click here)

Time to get your skates on: track down the rain-swept, lonesome West Coast and spend a night at either iconic Franz Josef Glacier or impressive Fox Glacier. Hike around the icy valleys, or take a helicopter up onto the glaciers themselves: a sure-fire way to develop feelings of insignificance. Drive up over Haast Pass to adrenaline-addicted Queenstown for a night or two of partying Kiwi-style.

QUEENSTOWN MILFORD SOUND

3½ hours From Queenstown to Milford Sound via Te Anau.

Milford Sound (Click here)

Mix and match highways to Te Anau for the beguiling side-road to Milford Sound – you might want to do a bit of kayaking here, or take a boat trip around the craggy inlets and mirror-topped waterways. This is NZ at its most pure, pristine and perfect.

MILFORD SOUND CHRISTCHURCH

3½ hours From Milford Sound to Queenstown, then One hour From Queenstown to Christchurch.

Christchurch & Around (Click here)

Veer back east to Queenstown and hop a flight to the southern capital of Christchurch, where you can while away a day or two exploring, shopping and gallery-hopping. Take an afternoon to explore the quirky harbour town of Lyttelton or the amazing Banks Peninsula south of the city, with its French-influenced town of Akaroa.

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New Zealand Month by Month

Top Events

National Jazz Festival April

New Zealand International Sevens February

World of WearableArt Award Show September

Marlborough Wine Festival February

World Buskers Festival January

January

Festival of Lights

New Plymouth’s Pukekura Park really sparkles during this festival. It’s a magical scene: pathways glow and trees are impressively lit with thousands of lights. Live music, dance and kids’ performances too.

World Buskers Festival

Christchurch could use a little cheering up: jugglers, musos, tricksters, puppeteers, mime artists, dancers… Avoid if you’re scared of audience participation!

February

Waitangi Day

On 6 February 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed between Maori and the British Crown. The day remains a public holiday across NZ, but in Waitangi itself there’s guided tours, concerts, market stalls and family entertainment.

Marlborough Wine Festival

NZ’s biggest and best wine festival features tastings from around 50 Marlborough wineries, plus fine food and entertainment. It's usually on a Saturday early in the month.

New Zealand International Arts Festival

Feeling artsy? This month-long spectacular happens in Wellington in February–March in even-numbered years. NZ’s cultural capital exudes artistic enthusiasm with theatre, dance, music, visual arts and international acts aplenty.

Te Matatini National Kapa Haka Festival

This engrossing Maori haka (war dance) competition happens in February in odd-numbered years. Venues vary: 2013 is Rotorua. It’s not just the haka: expect traditional song, dance, storytelling and other performing arts.

March    Eating huhu grubs at Hokitika's Wildfoods Festival

PHOTOGRAPHER: LOOK DIE BILDAGENTUR DER FOTOGRAFEN GMBH/ALAMY ©

Fringe NZ

Music, theatre, comedy, dance, visual arts… but not the mainstream stuff. These are the unusual, emerging, controversial, low-budget and/or downright weird acts that don’t seem to fit in anywhere else, all on show in Wellington.

Splore

Explore Splore, a cutting-edge outdoor summer fest in Tapapakanga Regional Park, southeast of Auckland. There's contemporary live music, performance, visual arts, safe swimming and pohutukawa trees!

New Zealand International Sevens

February sees the world’s top seven-a-side rugby teams crack heads in Wellington: everyone from stalwarts such as Australia, Wales and South Africa to minnows such as the Cook Islands, Kenya and Canada.

March

Wildfoods Festival

Eat some worms, hare testicles or crabs at Hokitika’s comfort-zone-challenging food fest. There are usually plenty of quality NZ brews available, too, which help subdue any difficult tastes.

WOMAD

Local and international music, arts and dance performances fill New Plymouth’s Brooklands Bowl. An evolution of the original world-music festival dreamed up by Peter Gabriel. Perfect for families.

Auckland International Boat Show

Auckland harbour blooms with sails and churns with outboard motors. It doesn’t command the instant nautical recognition of Sydney or San Diego, but Auckland really is one of the world’s great sailing cities.

Pasifika Festival

With around 140,000 Maori and notable communities of Tongans, Samoans, Cook Islanders, Niueans, Fijians and other South Pacific Islanders, Auckland has the largest Polynesian community in the world. These vibrant cultures come together at this annual fiesta in Western Springs Park.

April

National Jazz Festival

Every Easter Tauranga hosts the longest-running jazz fest in the southern hemisphere. The line up is invariably impressive (Kurt Elling, Keb Mo), and there’s plenty of fine NZ food and wine to accompany the finger-snappin’ sonics.

May

New Zealand International Comedy Festival

Three-week laugh-fest with venues across Auckland, Wellington and various regional centres: International gag-merchants (Arj Barker, Danny Bhoy) line up next to home-grown talent.

June

Matariki

Maori New Year is heralded by the rise of Matariki (aka Pleiades star cluster) in May and the sighting of the new moon in June. Remembrance, education, music, film, community days and tree planting take place, mainly around Auckland and Northland.

November Martinborough vineyards

PHOTOGRAPHER: OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

New Zealand Gold Guitar Awards

We like both kinds of music: country and western! These awards in Gore cap off a week of boot-scootin’ good times, with plenty of concerts and buskers.

July

Queenstown Winter Festival

This southern snow-fest has been running since 1975, and now attracts around 45,000 snowbunnies. It’s a 10-day party, studded with fireworks, jazz, street parades, comedy, a Mardi Gras, a masquerade ball and lots of snow-centric activities.

New Zealand International Film Festival

After separate film festivals in Wellington, Auckland, Dunedin and Christchurch, a selection of flicks hits the road for screenings in regional towns from July to November.

Russell Birdman

Birdman rallies are just so ’80s… but they sure are funny. This one in Russell features the usual cast of costumed contenders propelling themselves off a jetty in pursuit of weightlessness.

August

Taranaki International Arts Festival

Beneath the snowy slopes of Mt Taranaki, August used to be a time of quiet repose. Not anymore: this arts festival now shakes the winter from the city (New Plymouth) with music, theatre, dance, visual arts and parades.

Jazz & Blues Festival

You might think that the Bay of Islands is all about sunning yourself on a yacht, but in the depths of winter, this jazzy little festival will give you something else to do.

September

World of WearableArt Award Show

A bizarre (in the best way) two-week Wellington event featuring amazing hand-crafted garments. Entries are displayed at the World of WearableArt & Classic Cars Museum in Nelson afterwards.

October

Seafest Kaikoura

Kaikoura is a town built on crayfish, many of which find themselves on plates at Seafest (also a great excuse to drink a lot and dance around).

November

Toast Martinborough

Bound for a day of boozy indulgence, wine-swilling Wellingtonians head over Rimutaka Hill and roll into upmarket Martinborough. The Wairarapa region produces some seriously good pinot noir: don’t go home without trying some.

Pohutukawa Festival

Markets, picnics, live music, kite-flying, cruises, snorkelling, poetry…not everything has to be about drinking, dancing and decadence. And just look at those pohutukawa trees.

BikeFest & Lake Taupo Cycle Challenge

Feeling fit? Try cycling 160km around Lake Taupo. In the week prior to the big race, BikeFest celebrates all things bicycular: BMX, mountain bike, unicycle, tandem…

February    Waitangi Day celebrations

PHOTOGRAPHER: PAUL KENNEDY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Oamaru Victorian Heritage Celebrations

Ahhh, the good old days, when Queen Vic sat dourly on the throne, when hems were low, collars were high… Old Oamaru thoroughly enjoys this tongue-in-cheek historic homage: dress-ups, penny-farthing races, choirs and guided tours.

December

Rhythm & Vines

Wine, music and song (all the good things) in sunny east-coast Gisborne on New Year’s Eve. Top DJs, hip-hop acts, bands and singer-songwriters compete for your attentions.

Top of chapter

What’s New

For this new edition of Discover New Zealand, our authors have hunted down the fresh, the transformed, the hot and the happening. These are some of our favourites. For up-to-the-minute recommendations, see lonelyplanet.com/new-zealand.

1 MOUNTAIN BIKING, QUEENSTOWN

With new trails and the opening of the gondola-assisted Queenstown Bike Park, the South Island’s adventure capital is now a southern-hemisphere hub for two-wheeled downhill thrills (Click here).

2 AUCKLAND ART GALLERY

This wonderful gallery – housing more than 15,000 works – has just reopened after a major refurbishment, a sexy new wing emerging from the original heritage building (Click here).

3 WALLACE ARTS CENTRE, AUCKLAND

A brilliant new (and free!) contemporary art gallery in a historic mansion in Hillsborough, a few kilometres south of the city centre (Click here).

4 ADDINGTON, CHRISTCHURCH

Welcome to Christchurch’s most exciting and funkiest postearthquake neighbourhood. Previously sleepy Addington is now being transformed with new cafes, restaurants, theatres and live-music venues (Click here).

5 DON STAFFORD WING, ROTORUA MUSEUM

Named after a former curator, this amazing new museum extension houses eight intricate, interactive galleries dedicated to Rotorua’s Te Arawa people (Click here).

6 CRAFT BEER TRAIL, NELSON

Sunny Nelson claims the crown of NZ Brewing Capital, and summons its subjects with a Craft Beer Trail that hops around the region. (www.craftbrewingcapital.co.nz)

7 HAWKE’S BAY COASTAL CYCLE TRAIL

What Hawke’s Bay lacks in golden sand it now makes up for with new cycle trails, including a coastal run from Bayview to Clifton (Click here).

8 WYNYARD QUARTER, AUCKLAND

Formerly the ‘Western Reclamation’, this waterside precinct has been reinvented as the far hipper Wynyard Quarter, with bars, cafes and public spaces, linking up with the Viaduct (Click here).

9 STEAMPUNK HQ, OAMARU

Forging an eccentric combination of Victoriana and an industrial future, Oamaru’s new Steampunk HQ gallery adds a quirky layer to the town’s fascinating heritage ambience. (www.steampunkoamaru.co.nz; 1 Itchen St; 10am-4pm)

10 NEW ZEALAND RUGBY MUSEUM

Yeah, we know, this museum has been a Palmerston North fixture for years, but the shiny new premises are really worth barracking for (Click here).

11 WEST COAST WILDLIFE CENTRE, FRANZ JOSEF

Get up close to a kiwi (a bird, not a person) and see conservation in action in the amazing hatchery and nursery (Click here).

12 TE MANUKA TUTAHI MARAE, WHAKATANE

Laid-back Whakatane has a beautiful new marae (meeting house), right on the main street. Actually, it dates from 1875 but travelled for many years to get here! (Click here)

Top of chapter

Get Inspired

Books

»Mister Pip (Lloyd Jones, 2007) Reflections of Great Expectations in an isolated Bougainville community. Booker Prize shortlisted.

»The Carpathians (Janet Frame, 1989) A New Yorker in rural New Zealand; disturbing interplay between reality and imagination.

»The 10pm Question (Kate De Goldi, 2009) Frankie is 12 and has many questions; Sydney has some difficult answers.

»In My Father’s Den (Maurice Gee, 1972) A harrowing homecoming; made into a film in 2004.

Films

»The Piano (1993, director Jane Campion) Betrayal and passion on an 1850s NZ frontier: a mute woman, her daughter and her piano.

»The Lord of the Rings trilogy (2001–03, director Peter Jackson) The Fellowship of the Ring, The Two Towers and the Oscar-winning The Return of the King.

»Whale Rider (2002, director Niki Caro) Maori on the North Island’s East Coast are torn between tradition and today’s world.

»Boy (2010, director Taika Waititi) Coming- of-age poignancy and self-deprecation. The highest-grossing NZ-made film of all time!

Music

»Slice of Heaven (David Dobbyn with Herbs, 1986) South Pacific smash hit from veteran Dave.

»Not Many (Scribe, 2003) Hot Kiwi hip-hop: ‘How many dudes you know flow like this?’

»Home Again (Shihad, 1997) Riff-driven power from NZ’s guitar-rock kings.

»Somebody That I Used To Know (Gotye, 2011) He’s from Melbourne, but co-vocalist Kimbra is a Hamilton gal.

Websites

»Department of Conservation (www.doc.govt.nz) Parks, recreation and conservation info.

»DineOut (www.dineout.co.nz) Restaurant reviews across NZ.

»Living Landscapes (www.livinglandscapes.co.nz) Maori tourism operator listings.

»Muzic.net (www.muzic.net.nz) Gigs, reviews, band bios and charts.

Top of chapter

Need to Know

Currency

New Zealand dollars ($)

Language

English and Maori

ATMs

In cities and most towns

Credit Cards

Visa /MasterCard widely accepted; Amex less so

Visas

Citizens of Australia, the UK and 56 other countries don’t need visas (see www.immigration.govt.nz). Other nationalities do.

Mobile Phones

European phones will work in NZ, but not most American or Japanese phones. Use global roaming or a local SIM card.

Wi-Fi

Often available in hotels, hostels, cafes and pubs

Internet Access

Internet cafes in most cities and large towns, plus public libraries; around $6 per hour

Driving

Drive on the left; the steering wheel is on the right (in case you can’t find it…)

Tipping

Not expected, but tip 5–10% for good restaurant service.

When to Go

High Season (Dec–Feb)

»Summertime: local holidays, busy beaches, festivals and sporting events.

»Pay up to 25% more for city hotels.

»High season in the ski towns (Queenstown, Wanaka) is June–August.

Shoulder (Mar–Apr)

»Prime travelling time: fine weather, short queues and warm(ish) ocean.

»Long evenings supping Kiwi wines and craft beers.

»Spring (September–November) is shoulder season too.

Low Season (Jun–Aug)

»Head for the Southern Alps for brilliant skiing.

»No crowds, good accommodation deals and a seat in any restaurant.

»Warm-weather beach towns might be half asleep.

Advance Planning

»Three months before Read a Kiwi novel: Keri Hulme, Lloyd Jones, Janet Frame, Maurice Gee…

»One month before Book accommodation and regional flights, trains, ferries etc.

»One week before Book a bungy jump, surf lesson, caving tour or Maori cultural experience.

»Day before Reserve a table at a top Auckland/Wellington restaurant and make sure you’ve packed your hiking boots.

Your Daily Budget

Budget less than $130

»Dorm beds or campsites: $25 to $35 per night

»Big-city food markets for self-catering bargains

»Explore NZ with a money-saving bus pass

Midrange $130–250

»Hotel/motel doubles: $100 to $180

»Midrange restaurants, a movie or a live band, and a few beers at the pub

»Hire a car and explore further

Top End more than $250

»Top-end hotel doubles: from $180

»Three-course meal in a classy restaurant: $70

»Take a guided tour, go shopping or hit some ritzy bars

EXCHANGE RATES

Australia

A$1

NZ$1.30

Canada

C$1

NZ$1.23

Euro zone

€1

NZ$1.59

Japan

¥100

NZ$1.62

UK

UK£1

NZ$1.92

US

US$1

NZ$1.25

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com

What to Bring

»Driver ’ s licence The best way to see NZ is under your own steam.

»Insect repellent Kiwi sandfly bites just keep on giving.

»Power-plug adaptor Keep your gadgets charged.

»Travel insurance Ensure you’re covered for ‘high-risk’ activities (skiing, white-water rafting, surfing etc).

»Visa Confirm current visa situation.

Arriving in New Zealand

»Auckland Airport

BUSES 24-hour Airbus Express at least half-hourly

SHUTTLE BUSES Prebooked, 24-hour door-to-door services

TAXIS Around $70; 45 minutes to the city

»Wellington Airport

BUSES Every 15 minutes 5.50am to 9.30pm

SHUTTLE BUSES Prebooked, 24-hour door-to-door services

TAXIS Around $30; 20 minutes to the city

»Christchurch Airport

BUSES Every 30 minutes 7.15am to 9.15pm

SHUTTLE BUSES Prebooked, 24-hour door-to-door services

TAXIS Around $50; 25 minutes to the city

Getting Around

»Bus Well-organised links between towns.

»Drive Car hire from major cities and airports.

»Ferry Daily between the North and South Islands.

»Fly Domestic carriers fly between cities.

»Train Scenic railways cross the Southern Alps and link some major cities.

»Walk Long and short tracks, sublime scenery.

Accommodation

»B&Bs Bed (and breakfast) down in a locally run cabin/house/mansion (DB&B means dinner too!).

»Camping & holiday parks Camp in spectacular isolation or park your campervan at a holiday park.

»Farmstays Work on a farm, eat with the family.

»Hostels Spartan and decent or beery and oversexed – backpacker bonanza!

»Hotels From cheap pub rooms to five-star hotels.

»Motels Cookie-cutter sameness, but reliable.

Be Forewarned

»Summertime blues December to February bring crowds and steep accommodation prices.

»Winter Beaches are empty but mountains are full: ski season runs June to August (and beyond).

»Take the long way home Getting from A to B takes time: many roads are wiggly, two-lane affairs.

Auckland

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF LONELY PLANET MAPS

E-reader devices vary in their ability to show our maps. To get the most out of the maps in this guide, use the zoom function on your device. Or, visit http://media.lonelyplanet.com/ebookmaps and grab a PDF download or print out all the maps in this guide.

AUCKLAND

AUCKLANDʼS HIGHLIGHTS

AUCKLAND’S BEST…

NEED TO KNOW

DISCOVER AUCKLAND

Hauraki Gulf Islands

West Auckland

Coromandel Peninsula

Top of chapter

Auckland

Paris may be the city of love, but Auckland is the city of many lovers according to its Maori name, Tamaki Makaurau. Those lovers so desired this place that they fought over it for centuries.

It’s hard to imagine a more geographically blessed city. Its two harbours frame a narrow isthmus punctuated by volcanic cones and surrounded by fertile farmland. From any of its numerous vantage points you’ll be astounded at how close the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean come to kissing and forming a new island.

As a result, water’s never far away – whether it’s the ruggedly beautiful west-coast surf beaches or the glistening Hauraki Gulf with its myriad islands.

And within 90 minutes’ drive from the high-rise heart of the city there are the forests, beaches and gold-mining towns of the Coromandel Peninsula. Don’t miss a trip to Hot Water Beach, offering a hint of NZ’s famed geothermal hubbub.

Looking across Waitemata Harbour to Auckland and the Sky Tower (Click here   )

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Auckland

Aucklandʼs Highlights

Waiheke Island

Auckland Museum

Restaurants, Cafes & Bars, Auckland

Auckland Art Gallery

Volcanoes, Auckland

Top of chapter

Waiheke Island

Just a short ferry ride from the centre of Auckland, Waiheke may well be the highlight of your entire trip to New Zealand. You can arrive from Sydney or Los Angeles at breakfast time, then be on Waiheke for a vineyard-restaurant lunch with eye-popping views. Finish off with a swim on an uncrowded beach.

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Need to Know

BOOKINGS ESSENTIAL Lunch on summer weekends at vineyard restaurants BEST ADVICE The sign for cars off the ferry: ‘Slow down. You’re here.’ For further coverage, Click here

Waiheke Island Don’t Miss List

BY STEVE & NIGEL ROBINSON, ANANDA TOURS

1 THE ARTS SCENE

There are lots of artists on Waiheke, and the Waiheke Art Map brochure is a good guide to the island’s galleries. The gallery at the Artworks Complex (Click here) in Oneroa showcases local artists, while the sculpture park at Connells Bay (Click here) features a two-hour walk through installations on a former sheep farm.

MAURIZIO RELLINI/SIME/4CORNERS ©

2 WINE

Waiheke wine is all about quality over quantity: wines from Goldwater Estate (now Goldie Vineyard), Te Motu and Stonyridge (Click here) all made the grade in the 2008 book 1001 Wines You Must Taste Before You Die. You can take a tour (Click here) of a few island wineries, meet the winemakers and learn about the local wines.

3 BEACHES

On beaches such as Onetangi, Oneroa, and Palm Beach (Click here), we think it’s crowded if there are more than 20 people on the sand! Visitors arrive and say, ‘Where is everybody?’ Even in the height of summer, it’s easy to find quiet stretches of beach.

4 STONY BATTER HISTORIC RESERVE

This amazing landscape is strewn with huge boulders thrown up by volcanic eruptions 20 million years ago. It’s also a historic reserve: the Stony Batter Fort (Click here) was built in WWII to defend against a naval invasion that never happened. There’s more than a kilometre of tunnels 7.5m underground to be explored.

STUART SIMMONDS / ALAMY ©

5 WALKING THE COAST

Because the island is so hilly, around every corner there’s a new view – usually with sea in it. The local council has put lots of resources into bush and coastal walkways, and there’s public access to most parts of the coast. Other activities include horse riding and sea kayaking.

Auckland Museum

If you have the slightest interest in Maori and Pacific Islander culture, your first stop should be the Auckland Museum (Click here). The Maori galleries are loaded with artefacts from around the country, and there are cultural performances daily – see why NZ’s All Blacks rugby team uses the haka (war dance) to put the fear of God into their opposition. There’s plenty of natural history, war history and kids stuff, too.

JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Restaurants, Cafes & Bars

Dress up for the classy restaurants and bars around Viaduct Harbour (Click here), browse the eateries along Ponsonby Rd (Click here), or order some fast sushi in the city centre. Breakfast and coffee are big business in Auckland – the cafes are kickin’ around Parnell and Newmarket (Click here). Later on, you’ll find plenty of places to wet your whistle: Vulcan Lane, Ponsonby Rd and K Rd are drinking (Click here) hot spots.

Dining on Vulcan Lane

ANDREW WATSON / GETTY IMAGES ©

Auckland Art Gallery

Renovated in fine style in 2011, Auckland Art Gallery (Click here) provides a hushed, cultured escape from the streets. The Main Gallery and the New Gallery (predictably) focus on the old and the new respectively: look for European masters and early colonial works in the former, and contemporary Kiwi creations and temporary exhibitions in the latter.

GUY WILKINSON PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

Volcanoes

Feel the heat! There’s a huge reservoir of molten magma 100km below the streets of Auckland, and there are 50 volcanic peaks around the city. But don’t sweat – there hasn’t been an eruption here for 600 years, and most of the cones are dormant. Take a hike up Mt Eden (Maungawhau; Click here) or One Tree Hill (Maungakiekie; Click here) and see what you can see.

The volcanic crater of Mt Eden (Click here   )

SCOTT E BARBOUR / GETTY IMAGES ©

Coromandel Beaches

Pack your swimsuit and get up early for a day trip to the Coromandel Peninsula (or book a B&B and stay overnight). Explore the heritage streetscapes of Thames (Click here) and Coromandel Town (Click here), and make sure you dedicate some time to the beach! The legendary geothermal springs of Hot Water Beach (Click here) are near Hahei, and there are some gorgeous stretches of sand around Whitianga (Click here).

Lonely Bay (Click here   )

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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Auckland’s Best…

Points of View

»Mt Eden (Maungawhau; Click here) Killer views from Auckland’s highest volcanic cone (196m)

»Sky Tower (Click here) The southern hemisphere’s tallest structure

»One Tree Hill (Maungakiekie; Click here) Historic volcanic cone: 182m tall with a 360-degree outlook

»On the water (Click here) Take a ferry out onto the harbour and see Auckland from the water

Fresh-air Factories

»The Domain (Click here) Eighty city-centre hectares of recreational greenery and themed gardens

»Tamaki Drive (Click here) Tree-lined runway for joggers and the generically good looking

»Eden Garden (Click here) Burgeoning blooms on the slopes of Mt Eden

»Albert Park (Click here) A formal Victorian-era garden full of canoodling students

Eat Streets & Drinking Dens

»Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby (Click here) Auckland’s hippest strip (www.ponsonbyroad.co.nz)

»Karangahape Rd (K Rd), Newton (Click here) Edgy strip of affordable restaurants and bars

»New North Rd, Kingsland (Click here) Emerging eat street with great Thai and French

»Viaduct Harbour, Central Auckland (Click here) Upmarket waterfront eating and drinking (dress up!)

»Vulcan Lane, Central Auckland (Click here) Photogenic city-centre collation of cafes and bars

Tongans taking part in Pasifi ka festivities;

PAUL KENNEDY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Festivals

»Devonport Food & Wine Festival (www.devonportwinefestival.co.nz) Sassy two-day sip-fest in mid-February

»Auckland Arts Festival (www.aucklandfestival.co.nz) Auckland’s biggest arts party: three weeks in March, odd-numbered years

»Pasifika Festival (www.aucklandcouncil.govt.nz) Giant Polynesian party in March: performances, food and arts and crafts

»New Zealand International Film Festival (www.nzff.co.nz) Beat a retreat from the cold July streets for art-house treats

Morning meditation in Albert Park (Click here)

MERTEN SNIJDERS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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Need to Know

ADVANCE PLANNING

»One month before Book your bed in the city (and on the Coromandel Peninsula if it’s summer), plus transport, accommodation and activities on the Hauraki Gulf Islands.

»Two weeks before Book tickets for concerts, the rugby and maybe a Cathedral Cove sea-kayak tour on the Coromandel Peninsula.

»One week before Book tickets for a harbour cruise and a table at one of Auckland’s premier restaurants.

RESOURCES

»Auckland NZ (www.aucklandnz.com) The city’s official tourist site

»Destination Coromandel (www.thecoromandel.com) Tourist info for the Coromandel

»Auckland i-SITEs (www.aucklandnz.com) Central tourist info, at the SkyCity complex and the Princes Wharf ferries on Quay St

»New Zealand Herald (www.nzherald.co.nz) NZ’s biggest daily newspaper is based in Auckland

»MAXX Regional Transport (www.maxx.co.nz) Public transport details: bus, train and ferry

GETTING AROUND

»Walk Around Central Auckland and along the waterfront

»Ferry To the Hauraki Gulf islands (Waiheke, Rangitoto) and Devonport on the North Shore

»Bus All around the city

»Hire a car When you want to leave town (the Coromandel Peninsula is 90 minutes away)

»Airbus Express Buses pinball between the airport and the city

»Train To access the southwestern suburbs

BE FOREWARNED

»Crowds Summer (December to February) is the busy season: expect queues at Auckland’s big-ticket sights, lots of beach-bums on the Coromandel Peninsula and elevated accommodation prices

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Auckland Walking Tour

Auckland’s CBD can feel a little scrappy and disorienting: this walk aims to shed some light by taking you through the best bits, with a few hidden nooks and architectural treats thrown in for good measure.

WALK FACTS

Start St Kevin’s Arcade, Karangahape Rd

Finish Wynyard Quarter

Distance 4.5km

Duration Around three hours

St Kevin’s Arcade

Start among the second-hand boutiques of St Kevin’s Arcade, then take the stairs down to Myers Park: look out for the reproduction of Michelangelo’s Moses at the bottom of the stairs. Continue through the park, taking the stairs on the right just before the overpass to head up to street level.

Auckland Town Hall

Heading down Queen St, you’ll pass the noble Auckland Town Hall and sprawling, paved Aotea Square, the civic heart of the city. On the next corner is the wonderfully art deco Civic Theatre. It was built in 1929, and reopened in 2000 after a major overhaul. Don't miss the amazing Indian-inspired lobby.

Auckland Art Gallery

Turn right on Wellesley St and then left onto Lorne St. Immediately to your right is Khartoum Pl, a pretty little square with tiling celebrating the suffragettes; NZ women were the first in the world to win the vote. Head up the stairs to the fabulously renovated Auckland Art Gallery : free tours kick-off at 11.30am, 12.30pm and 1.30pm daily.

Albert Park

Behind the gallery is Albert Park, a Victorian formal garden. Cross through it and turn left into Princes St, where a row of Victorian merchant’s houses faces the intricately styled University Clock Tower.

Old Government House

Cut around behind the clock tower to the restrained grandeur of Old Government House, and then follow the diagonal path back to Princes St. The good-looking building on the corner of Princes and Bowen Ave was once the city’s main synagogue.

High St

Head down Bowen Ave and cut through the park to the Chancery precinct, an upmarket area of designer shops and cafes. A small square connects it to High St, Auckland’s main fashion strip. Take a left onto Vulcan La, lined with historical pubs and cool cafes.

Britomart Train Station

Turn right onto Queen St and follow it down to the Britomart Train Station, housed in the former Central Post Office. You’re now standing on reclaimed land – the original shoreline was at Fort St, about 200m behind you (to the south).

Viaduct Harbour

Turn left on Quay St and head to Viaduct Harbour, bustling with bars, cafes and lunching types, and then continue over the bridge to the rejuvenated Wynyard Quarter.

One Tree Hill (Click here)

DAVID WALL / ALAMY ©

Auckland In…

TWO DAYS

Start by acquainting yourself with the inner city. Take our walking tour from Karangahape Rd (K Rd) to the Wynyard Quarter, stopping to check out the NZ section of the Auckland Art Gallery Offline map Google map. Catch a ferry to Devonport, head up North Head and cool down at Cheltenham Beach (weather permitting), before heading back for dinner.

On day two, head up One Tree Hill, wander around Cornwall Park and then visit the Auckland Museum Offline map Google map and Domain. Take a trip along Tamaki Drive, stopping at Bastion or Achilles Point to enjoy the harbour views. Spend the evening dining and bar hopping in Ponsonby.

FOUR DAYS

On the third day, get out on the Hauraki Gulf. Catch the ferry to Waiheke Island and spend your time between the beaches and the wineries.

On the final day, head west. Breakfast in Titirangi before exploring the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park, Karekare and Piha. Then have a night out on K Rd or Britomart.

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Discover Auckland

Passenger ferry at Auckland's waterfront

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

At a Glance

»Central Auckland (Click here) High-rise hub: waterfront eating and drinking, Queen St shopping and K Rd nightlife.

»Ponsonby & Grey Lynn (Click here) Alternative foodie haunts and bars.

»Parnell & Newmarket (Click here) Old-money ’hoods; pricey restaurants and boutiques.

»Hauraki Gulf Islands (Click here) Catch the ferry: offshore wineries and beaches.

»Coromandel Peninsula (Click here) Holiday towns, forests and beaches.

Sights

City Centre

City Centre

Top Sights

Albert Park & Auckland University E5

Auckland Art Gallery E5

Sky Tower D4

Voyager – New Zealand Maritime Museum D2

Sights

1  Old Government House F4

2  University Clock Tower F5

Activities, Courses & Tours

3 360 Discovery D2

4 Auckland Jet Boat Tours D2

5  Fullers E2

6 Sky Screamer D4

7  SkyJump C4

SkyWalk (see 7)

Sleeping

8 Elliott Hotel D5

9  Hotel de Brett E3

10  Quadrant F4

11 Waldorf Celestion F3

Eating

12  Alleluya C7

13  Coco's Cantina B7

14  Depot D4

15  Ebisu F2

16  Grove D3

O'Connell Street Bistro (see 9)

17  Soul Bar D2

Drinking

Hotel de Brett (see 9)

18  Occidental E3

19  Tyler Street Garage F2

20  Wine Cellar & Whammy Bar C7

Entertainment

21  Aotea Centre D5

22 Auckland Town Hall D6

23  Cassette Nine E3

24  Classic Comedy Club D6

25  Event Cinemas D5

26  NZ Film Archives B7

27  Rakinos E4

Shopping

28  Pauanesia E4

29  Real Groovy D6

30  Unity Books E3

31  Zambesi E3

ALBERT PARK & AUCKLAND UNIVERSITY Park, University

Offline map Google map

Hugging the hill on the city’s eastern flank, Albert Park is a charming Victorian formal garden overrun by students during term time, the more radical of whom have been known to deface the statues of Governor Grey and Queen Victoria. Auckland University’s campus stretches over several streets and incorporates a row of stately Victorian merchant houses (Princes St) and Old Government House Offline map Google map (Waterloo Quadrant).

The University Clock Tower Offline map Google map is Auckland’s architectural triumph. It’s usually open, so wander inside.

If You Like...

Parks & Gardens

If you like wandering through Albert Park, we think you’ll enjoy these other Auckland green zones.

1 AUCKLAND BOTANICAL GARDENS

(www.aucklandbotanicgardens.co.nz; 102 Hill Rd, Manurewa; 8am-6pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct, 8am-8pm mid-Oct–mid-Mar) These 64-hectare gardens have themed areas, threatened plants and an infestation of wedding parties.

2 EDEN GARDEN

Offline map Google map

(www.edengarden.co.nz; 24 Omana Ave; adult/child $8/6; 9am-4pm) On the eastern slopes of Mt Eden, this horticultural showpiece is noted for its collections of camellia, rhododendron and azalea.

3 PARNELL ROSE GARDENS

Offline map Google map

(85-87 Gladstone Rd; 7am-7pm) These formal gardens are blooming excellent from November to March.

4 BASTION POINT

(Hapimana St) Politics, harbour views and lush lawns combine on this pretty headland with a chequered history. Follow the lawn to a WWII gun embankment.

5 WESTERN SPRINGS PARK

Offline map Google map

(Great North Rd) Formed by a confluence of lava flows, the lake here was once Auckland’s water supply. It’s a great spot for a picnic (watch out for the geese).

SKY TOWER Landmark

Offline map Google map

(www.skycityauckland.co.nz; cnr Federal & Victoria Sts; adult/child $25/8; 8.30am-10.30pm) The impossible-to-miss Sky Tower looks like a giant hypodermic giving a fix to the heavens. Spectacular lighting renders it space-age at night. At 328m it is the tallest structure in the southern hemisphere. A lift takes you up to the observation decks in 40 stomach-lurching seconds; look down through the glass floor panels if you’re after an extra kick. It costs $3 extra to catch the skyway lift to the ultimate viewing level. See also SkyWalk and SkyJump.

VOYAGER – NEW ZEALAND MARITIME MUSEUM Museum

Offline map Google map

( 09-373 0800; www.maritimemuseum.co.nz; 149-159 Quay St; adult/child $17/9; 9am-5pm) This well-presented museum traces NZ’s seafaring history from Maori voyaging canoes to the America’s Cup. Re-creations include a tilting 19th-century steerage-class cabin and a fab 1950s beach store and bach (holiday home).

Parnell & Newmarket

Parnell

Top Sights

Auckland Domain A3

Auckland Museum B3

Parnell Rose Gardens C1

Sights

1  Wintergarden A3

Activities, Courses & Tours

2  Parnell Baths D1

Sleeping

3  Parnell Inn B2

4 Quality Hotel Barrycourt C2

Eating

5  La Cigale C2

AUCKLAND DOMAIN Park

Covering about 80 hectares, this green swathe contains sports fields, interesting sculpture, formal gardens, wild corners and the Wintergarden (admission free; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7.30pm Sun Nov-Mar, 9am-4.30pm Apr-Oct), with its fernery, tropical house, cool house, cute cat statue and neighbouring cafe. The mound in the centre of the park is all that remains of Pukekaroa, one of Auckland’s volcanoes.

Tamaki Drive

This scenic, pohutukawa-lined road heads east from the city, hugging the waterfront. In summer it’s a jogging/cycling/rollerblading blur offering plenty of eye candy.

A succession of child-friendly, peaceful swimming beaches starts at Ohaku Bay. Around the headland is Mission Bay, a popular beach with an iconic art-deco fountain, historic mission house, restaurants and bars. Safe swimming beaches Kohimarama and St Heliers follow. Further east along Cliff Rd, the Achilles Point lookout offers panoramic views. At its base is Ladies Bay, where nudists put up with mud and shells for the sake of relative seclusion.

Buses 745 to 769 from Britomart follow this route.

KELLY TARLTON’S Aquarium

(Antarctic Encounter; 09-531 5065; www.kellytarltons.co.nz; 23 Tamaki Dr; adult/child $34/17; 9.30am-5.30pm) In the Underwater World, sharks and stingrays swim around and over you as you’re shunted on a conveyor belt through transparent tunnels in what were once stormwater and sewage holding tanks.

In a post Happy Feet world, Kelly Tarlton’s biggest attraction is the permanent winter wonderland known as Antarctic Encounter. It includes a walk through a replica of Scott’s 1911 Antarctic hut, and a ride aboard a heated snowcat through a frozen environment where a colony of king and gentoo penguins lives.

Book online for a shorter wait (queues can be horrendous) and a 10% discount. There’s a free shark-shaped shuttle bus that departs from 172 Quay St (opposite the ferry terminal) on the hour between 9am and 4pm.

Newmarket

Top Sights

Eden Garden A3

Eating

1  Basque Kitchen Bar C1

2  Teed St Larder C2

Entertainment

3  Rialto C1

Shopping

4  Texan Art Schools C2

5  Zambesi C1

Devonport

Nestling at the bottom of the North Shore, Devonport is a short ferry trip from the city. Quaint without being sickeningly twee, it retains a village atmosphere, with many well-preserved Victorian and Edwardian buildings and loads of cafes.

For a self-guided tour of historic buildings, pick up the Old Devonport Walk pamphlet from the i-SITE.

Ferries to Devonport (adult/child return $11/5.80, 12 minutes) depart from the Auckland Ferry Building every 30 minutes (hourly after 8pm) from 6.15am to 11.15pm (until 1am Friday and Saturday), and from 7.15am to 10pm on Sundays and public holidays. Some Waiheke Island and Rangitoto ferries also stop here.

NAVY MUSEUM Museum

(www.navymuseum.mil.nz; Torpedo Bay; 10am-5pm) The navy has been in Devonport since the earliest days of the colony. Its history is on display at this well-presented and often moving museum, focussing on the stories of the sailors themselves.

Western Springs

AUCKLAND ZOO Zoo

(www.aucklandzoo.co.nz; Motions Rd; adult/child $21/11; 9.30am-5pm, last entry 4.15pm) At this modern, spacious zoo, the big foreigners tend to steal the attention from the timid natives, but if you can wrestle the kids away from the tigers, there’s a well-presented NZ section. Called Te Wao Nui, it’s divided into seven zones: Coast (seals, penguins), Islands (mainly lizards, including NZ’s pint-sized dinosaur, the tuatara), Wetlands (ducks, herons, eels), Night (kiwi, frogs, native owls and weta), Forest (birds) and High Country (cheekier birds and lizards).

Auckland Volcanic Field

Some cities think they’re tough just by living in the shadow of a volcano. Auckland’s built on 55 of them and, no, they’re not all extinct. The last one to erupt was Rangitoto about 600 years ago and no one can predict when the next eruption will occur. But relax: this has only happened 19 times in the last 20,000 years.

Some of Auckland’s volcanoes are cones, some are filled with water and some have been completely quarried away. The most interesting to explore are Mt Eden, One Tree Hill and Rangitoto.

Other Suburbs

ONE TREE HILL (MAUNGAKIEKIE) Volcano, Park

(www.cornwallpark.co.nz) This volcanic cone was the isthmus’s key pa (fortified village)and the greatest fortress in the country. It’s easy to see why: a drive or walk to the top (182m) offers 360-degree views. At the summit is the grave of John Logan Campbell, who when gifting the land to the city in 1901 requested that a memorial (the imposing obelisk and statue above the grave) be built to the Maori people. Nearby is the stump of the last ‘one tree’.

To get here from the city, take a train to Greenlane and walk 1km along Green Lane West. By car, take the Greenlane exit of the Southern Motorway and turn right into Green Lane West.

WALLACE ARTS CENTRE Gallery

(www.tsbbankwallaceartscentre.org.nz; Pah Homestead, 72 Hillsborough Rd, Hillsborough; 10am-3pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) Housed in a gorgeous 1879 mansion with views to One Tree Hill and the Manakau Harbour, the Wallace Arts Centre is lavishly endowed with contemporary New Zealand art from a private collection, generously offered for free public viewing.

Bus 299 (Lynfield) departs every 15 minutes from Wellesley St in the city (near the Civic Theatre) and heads to Hillsborough Rd ($4.50, about 40 minutes).

Kingsland & Mt Eden

Top Sights

Auckland Zoo A1

Mt Eden (Maungawhau) G4

Western Springs A2

Sleeping

1  Bavaria F3

2  Eden Park B&B E4

Eating

3  Atomic Roastery D3

4  Merediths E4

Drinking

5  Galbraith's Alehouse G1

6  Winehot C3

Entertainment

7  Kings Arms Tavern F1

Shopping

8  Royal Jewellery Studio D3

Activities

Visitors centres and public libraries stock the city council’s Auckland City’s Walkways pamphlet, which has a good selection of urban walks, including the Coast to Coast Walkway (Click here).

TRAVELSCAPE IMAGES / ALAMY ©

Don't Miss

Auckland Museum

Dominating the Domain is this imposing neoclassical temple (1929), capped with an impressive copper-and-glass dome (2007). Its comprehensive display of Pacific Island and Maori artefacts on the ground floor deserves to be on your ‘must see’ list. Highlights include a 25m war canoe and an extant carved meeting house (remove your shoes before entering). There’s also an Egyptian mummy (a sure-fire hit with the kids) and a fascinating display on the volcanic field, including an eruption simulation.

Hour-long museum highlights tours (adult/child $20/8) are held daily at 10.30am, 12.30pm and 2pm. Half-hour Maori cultural performances (adult/child $25/13) take place at 11am and 1.30pm, with Maori gallery tours (adult/child $10/5) departing immediately afterwards.

NEED TO KNOW

Click here 09-309 0443; www.aucklandmuseum.com; adult/child $10/free; 10am-5pm

SAIL NZ Sailing

( 0800 397 567; www.explorenz.co.nz; Viaduct Harbour) Shoot the breeze on a genuine America’s Cup yacht (adult/child $160/115) or head out on a Whale and Dolphin Safari (adult/child $160/105); dolphins are spotted 90% of the time and whales 75%. The Pride of Auckland fleet of glamorous large yachts offers 90-minute Harbour Sailing Cruises (adult/child $75/55), 2½-hour Dinner Cruises ($120/85) and full-day Sailing Adventures ($165/125).

SKYWALK Extreme Sports

Offline map Google map

( 0800 759 925; www.skywalk.co.nz; Sky Tower; adult/child $145/115; 10am-4.30pm) The Sky Tower offers an ever-expanding selection of pant-wetting activities. If you thought the observation deck was for pussies, SkyWalk involves circling the 192m-high, 1.2m-wide outside halo of the tower without rails or a balcony – but with a safety harness (they’re not completely crazy).

SKYJUMP Extreme Sports

Offline map Google map

( 0800 759 586; www.skyjump.co.nz; adult/child $225/175; 10am-5pm) This 11-second, 85km/h base wire leap from the observation deck of the Sky Tower is more like a parachute jump than a bungy and it’s a rush and a half. Combine it with the SkyWalk in the Look ’n Leap package ($290).

COAST TO COAST WALKWAY Walking

(www.aucklandcity.govt.nz) Heading clear across the country from the Tasman to the Pacific (actually, that’s only 16km), this walk encompasses One Tree Hill, Mt Eden, the Domain and the University, keeping as much as possible to reserves rather than city streets. You can do it in either direction: we recommend catching the train to Onehunga, the least impressive trailhead, and finishing up at one of the Viaduct’s bars. From Onehunga Station, take Onehunga Mall up to Princes St, turn left and pick up the track at the inauspicious park by the motorway.

FERGS KAYAKS Kayaking

( 09-529 2230; www.fergskayaks.co.nz; 12 Tamaki Dr, Okahu Bay; 10am-5pm) Hires out kayaks and paddleboards (per hour/day from $15/50), bikes (per hour/day $20/120) and inline skates (per hour/day $15/30). Day and night guided kayak trips are available to Devonport ($95, three hours, 8km) or Rangitoto Island ($120, six hours, 13km).

PARNELL BATHS Swimming

(www.parnellbaths.co.nz; Judges Bay Rd; adult/child $6.30/4.20; 6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun Nov-Apr) Outdoor saltwater pools with an awesome 1950s mural.

BALLOON EXPEDITIONS Ballooning

( 09-416 8590; www.balloonexpeditions.co.nz; flight $340) Offers hour-long hot-air balloon flights at sunrise, including breakfast and a bottle of bubbles.

If You Like...

Extreme Action

If you like the SkyWalk and SkyJump, check out these other Auckland adrenaline rushes.

1 AUCKLAND BRIDGE CLIMB & BUNGY

( 09-360 7748; www.bungy.co.nz; Curran St, Herne Bay; climb adult/child $120/80, bungy $150/120) Bungy originators, AJ Hackett, offer the chance to climb up or jump off the Auckland Harbour Bridge.

2 SKY SCREAMER

Offline map Google map

( 09-377 1328; www.skyscreamer.co.nz; cnr Albert & Victoria Sts; ride $40; 9am-10pm Sun-Thu, 10am-2am Fri & Sat) Once you’re strapped in and reverse-bungied 60m up in the air, the whole city will hear you scream.

3 AUCKLAND JET BOAT TOURS

Offline map Google map

( 0508 255 382; www.aucklandjetboattours.co.nz; Princes Wharf; adult/child incl museum $65/45) Take a 40-minute blast around the harbour.

4 NZ SKYDIVE

( 0800 865 867; www.nzskydive.co.nz; 9000/12,000ft jump $245/295) Offers tandem skydives from Mercer airfield, 55km south of Auckland.

Tours

Cultural Tours

TORU TOURS Cultural Tour

( 027 457 0011; www.torutours.com; with/without performance $213/178) Maori cultural tours stopping in at a marae (meeting house complex), Auckland Museum (with an optional cultural show), the native critter section of the zoo, Mt Eden, One Tree Hill and Bastion Point. Three-hour Express Tours ($69) are also available.

NZ WINEPRO Wine Tasting

( 09-575 1958; www.nzwinepro.co.nz; tours $119-325) Offers a range of highly rated tours to all of Auckland’s wine regions, combining tastings with sightseeing.

EXPLORER BUS Bus Tour

( 0800 439 756; www.explorerbus.co.nz; adult/child $40/20) This hop-on, hop-off service departs from the Ferry Building every hour from 10am to 3pm (more frequently in summer), heading to 14 tourist sites around the central city.

FULLERS Cruise

Offline map Google map

( 09-367 9111; www.fullers.co.nz; Ferry Building, 99 Quay St; adult/child $38/19; 10.30am & 1.30pm) As well as ferry services, Fullers has daily 1½-hour harbour cruises which include a stop on Rangitoto, a complimentary cuppa and a free return ticket to Devonport.

Sleeping

City Centre

HOTEL DE BRETT Boutique Hotel $$$

Offline map Google map

( 09-925 9000; www.hoteldebrett.com; 2 High St; r $300-600; ) Supremely hip, this lavishly refurbished historic hotel has been zooshed up with stripey carpets and clever designer touches in every nook of the extremely comfortable rooms. Prices include breakfast, free broadband and a predinner drink.

WALDORF CELESTION Apartment Hotel $$

Offline map Google map

( 09-280 2200; www.celestion-waldorf.co.nz; 19-23 Anzac Ave; apt $137-239) A rash of Waldorfs has opened in recent years, all presenting similar symptoms: affordable, modern, inner-city apartments in city fringe locations. We prefer this one for its stylish red, black and grey colour palette, and the sumptuous velvet curtains in reception.

ELLIOTT HOTEL Apartment Hotel $$

Offline map Google map

MICHAEL SNELL / ALAMY ©

Don't Miss

Auckland Art Gallery

Reopened in 2011 after a $121-million refurbishment, Auckland’s premier art repository now has a gorgeous glass-and-wood atrium grafted onto its already impressive 1887 French-chateau frame. It’s a worthy receptacle for important works by the likes of Pieter Bruegel the Younger, Guido Reni, Picasso, Cezanne, Gauguin and Matisse. It also showcases the best of NZ art: from the intimate 19th-century portraits of tattooed Maori subjects by Charles Goldie, to the text-scrawled canvasses of Colin McCahon, and beyond.

Free tours depart from the main entrance at 11.30am, 12.30pm and 1.30pm.

NEED TO KNOW

Click here www.aucklandartgallery.com; cnr Kitchener & Wellesley Sts; admission free; 10am-5pm

( 09-308 9334; www.theelliotthotel.com; cnr Elliott & Wellesley Sts; apt $139-219; ) Housed in a grand historic building (1880s), this apartment-style hotel is much plusher than the price implies. Rooms may not be huge but the high ceilings will let your spirits rise.

QUADRANT Hotel $$

Offline map Google map

( 09-984 6000; www.thequadrant.com; 10 Waterloo Quadrant; apt $165-600; ) Slick, central and full of all the whiz-bang gadgets, this apartment-style complex is an excellent option. The only catch is that the units are tiny and the bathrooms beyond small.

Ponsonby & Grey Lynn

Ponsonby

Sleeping

1  Abaco on Jervois A1

Eating

2  Dizengoff A2

3  MooChowChow B4

4 Ponsonby Road Bistro B3

5 Prego A3

6 SPQR B3

Drinking

7  Golden Dawn B4

8  Ponsonby Social Club B3

Shopping

9  Marvel B3

10  Texan Art Schools B4

Zambesi (see 4)

HENRY’S B&B $$$

( 09-360 2700; www.henrysonpeel.co.nz; 33 Peel St; r/apt $220/275; ) These beautiful wooden villas are what Auckland’s inner suburbs are all about. Henry’s has been stylishly renovated, adding en suites to the downstairs rooms and a self-contained harbour-view apartment above.

ABACO ON JERVOIS Motel $$

( 09-360 6850; www.abaco.co.nz; 57 Jervois Rd; r $125-165, ste $184-205; ) A neutral-toned motel, with a contemporary fit-out, including slick stainless-steel kitchenettes (with dish drawers and proper ovens) and fluffy white towels for use in the spa. The darker rooms downstairs are priced accordingly.

Mt Eden

EDEN PARK B&B B&B $$$

( 09-630 5721; www.bedandbreakfastnz.com; 20 Bellwood Ave; s $135-150, d $235-250; ) If you know any rugby fans who require chandeliers in their bathrooms, send them here. The hallowed turf of Auckland’s legendary rugby ground is only a block away and while the rooms aren’t overly large for the prices, they mirror the Edwardian elegance of this fine wooden villa.

BAVARIA Guesthouse $$

( 09-638 9641; www.bavariabandbhotel.co.nz; 83 Valley Rd; s $95-110, d $145-175; ) Sitting somewhere between a B&B and a small hotel, this spacious villa offers large, airy rooms and a buffet breakfast. The communal TV lounge, dining room and deck all encourage mixing and mingling.

Parnell & Newmarket

PARNELL INN Motel $$

( 09-358 0642; www.parnellinn.co.nz; 320 Parnell Rd; r $105-140; ) You’ll get a chipper welcome from the friendly folks at this good-looking, revamped motel with local photography on the walls. Rooms 3 and 4 have great harbour views and some rooms have kitchenettes.

QUALITY HOTEL BARRYCOURT Hotel $$

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( 09-303 3789; www.barrycourt.co.nz; 20 Gladstone Rd; units $113-283, r $131-179, ste $188-283; ) A mixed bag of more than 100 motel rooms and units are available in this large, well-maintained complex with friendly multilingual staff. The newer north wing has some fantastic harbour views.

Devonport

HAMPTON BEACH HOUSE B&B $$$

( 09-445 1358; www.hamptonbeachhouse.co.nz; 4 King Edward Pde; s $195, r $235-305; ) One of a fine strip of waterside mansions, this upmarket, gay-friendly, Edwardian B&B has rooms opening onto the rear garden. It’s all very tastefully done; expect quality linen and gourmet breakfasts.

DEVONPORT MOTEL Motel $$

( 09-445 1010; www.devonportmotel.co.nz; 11 Buchanan St; r $150; ; Devonport) This minimotel has just two units in the tidy back garden. They’re modern, clean, self-contained and in a nice quiet location that’s still close to Devonport’s action (such as it may be).

Eating

Because of its size and ethnic diversity, Auckland tops the country when it comes to dining options and quality.

Aucklanders demand good coffee, so you never have to walk too far to find a decent cafe.

City Centre

GROVE Modern Nz $$$

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( 09-368 4129; www.thegroverestaurant.co.nz; St Patrick’s Sq, Wyndham St; mains $43; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) Romantic fine dining at its best: the room is cosy and moodily lit, the menu encourages sensual experimentation and the service is effortless. If you can’t find anything to break the ice on the extensive wine list, give it up – it’s never going to happen.

DEPOT Modern Nz $$

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(www.eatatdepot.co.nz; 86 Federal St; dishes $14-32; 7am-late) Opened to instant acclaim in 2011, TV chef Al Brown’s first Auckland eatery offers first-rate comfort food in informal surrounds (communal tables, butcher tiles and a constant buzz). Dishes are divided into ‘small’ and ‘a little bigger’ and are designed to be shared. A pair of clever shuckers are kept busy serving up the city’s freshest oysters.

O’CONNELL STREET BISTRO French $$$

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( 09-377 1884; www.oconnellstbistro.com; 3 O’Connell St; lunch $28-38, dinner $34-45; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) O’Connell St is a grown-up treat, with elegant decor and truly wonderful food and wine, satisfying lunchtime powerbrokers and dinnertime daters alike. If you’re dining before 7.30pm, a fixed-price menu is available (two-/three-courses $33/40).

SOUL BAR Modern Nz $$

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( 09-356 7249; www.soulbar.co.nz; Viaduct Harbour; mains $20-42; 11am-late) Eating seafood by the water is a must in Auckland and this modernist gastrodome boasts an unbeatable see-and-be-seen location (Jay-Z and Beyoncé dined not-at-all-inconspicuously on the deck) and some of the best seafood in town.

EBISU Japanese $$

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(www.ebisu.co.nz; 116-118 Quay St; large plates $28-35; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily) Auckland’s food-lovers are in the midst of a minicraze for izakaya, a style of drinking and eating that eschews Japanese formality, yet doesn’t involve food being flung around the room or chugging along on a conveyor belt. This large bar gets it exactly right, serving exquisite plates, large and small, designed to be shared.

Ponsonby & Grey Lynn

MOOCHOWCHOW Thai $$

( 09-360 6262; www.moochowchow.co.nz; 23 Ponsonby Rd; dishes $18-30; lunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) It’s Thai, Nahm Jim, but not as we know it. Bangkok’s street food has been channelled into this supremely Ponsonby mooching spot without missing a piquant note. We haven’t had a bad dish here, and we’ve sampled most of the menu.

PQR Italian $$

(www.spqrnz.co.nz; 150 Ponsonby Rd; mains $25-39; noon-late) This Ponsonby Rd hot spot is well known for Roman-style, thin, crusty pizzas and excellent Italian-influenced mains. The surrounds are a stylish blend of the industrial and the chic, the lights low (bring your reading glasses!), the buzz constant and the smooth staff aren’t beyond camping it up.

PONSONBY ROAD BISTRO International $$

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( 09-360 1611; www.ponsonbyroadbistro.co.nz; 165 Ponsonby Rd; mains $23-36; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) Portions are large at this modern, upmarket restaurant with an Italian/French sensibility and first-rate service. Imported cheese and wine are a highlight, and the crispy-based pizzas make a delicious shared snack.

DIZENGOFF Cafe $

(256 Ponsonby Rd; mains $7-19; 6.30am-5pm; Link) This stylish shoebox crams in a mixed crowd of corporate and fashion types, gay guys, Jewish families, Ponsonby denizens and travellers. Mouth-watering scrambled eggs, tempting counter food, heart-starting coffee, plus a great stack of reading material if you tire of eavesdropping and people-watching.

Newton

COCO’S CANTINA Italian $$

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(www.cocoscantina.co.nz; 376 Karangahape Rd; mains $27-31; 5pm-late Tue-Sat) Rub shoulders with Auckland’s hipsters and foodsters at this bustling cantina where the wait for a table is part of the experience. Propping up the bar is hardly a hardship: the ambience and drinks list see to that. The rustic menu is narrowly focussed, seasonal and invariably delicious.

ALLELUYA Cafe $

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(St Kevin’s Arcade, Karangahape Rd; mains $10-19; 8am-3pm; ) To the bohemian denizens of K Rd, Alleluya means good coffee, moreish cakes and lots of vegetarian options. It’s situated at the end of the city’s hippest arcade, with windows offering a wonderful snapshot of the city skyline.

Kingsland

ATOMIC ROASTERY Cafe $

(www.atomiccoffee.co.nz; 420c New North Rd; snacks $9-10; 8am-3pm) Coffee hounds should follow their noses to this, one of the country’s best-known coffee roasters. Tasty accompaniments include pies served in mini-frypans, rolls, salads and cakes.

Mt Eden

MEREDITHS Modern Nz $$$

( 09-623 3140; www.merediths.co.nz; 365 Dominion Rd; 6-9 course degustation $90-130; lunch Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) Dining at Merediths is the culinary equivalent of black-water rafting – tastes surprise you at every turn, you never know what’s coming next and you’re left with a sense of breathless exhilaration.

Parnell & Newmarket

LA CIGALE Market, French $$

( 09-366 9361; www.lacigale.co.nz; 69 St Georges Bay Rd; cafe $8-18, bistro $30; market 9am-1.30pm Sat & Sun, cafe 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, bistro dinner Wed-Fri) Catering to Francophiles, foodies and homesick Gauls, this warehouse stocks French imports (wine, cheese, tinned snails etc) and has a patisserie-laden cafe. Yet it’s during the weekend farmers markets that this cigale (cicada) really chirps, with stalls laden with produce and all manner of tasty eats. Three nights a week the space is converted into a quirky bistro, where mains are ordered three days in advance and served in large communal bowls.

BASQUE KITCHEN BAR Tapas $$

( 09-523 1057; 61 Davies Cres; tapas $7-15; 4pm-late Mon-Thu & Sat, noon-late Fri) It doesn’t look like much but this dark little bar serves delectable tapas accompanied by a large range of Spanish wine and sherry. The stuffed squid is sublime.

TEED ST LARDER Cafe $

(www.teedstreetlarder.co.nz; 7 Teed St; 8am-4pm) Polished concrete floors, beer crate tables and colourful oversized lampshades set the scene at Newmarket’s best cafe. There are plenty of enticing cooked items on the menu but it’s hard to go past the delicious sandwiches and tarts beckoning from the counter.

Northcote

ENGINE ROOM Modern Nz $$$

( 09-480 9502; www.engineroom.net.nz; 115 Queen St, Northcote; meals $32-35; dinner Tue-Sat) One of Auckland’s best restaurants, this informal eatery serves up lighter-than-air goat’s cheese soufflés, inventive whiteboard mains and oh-my-God chocolate truffles. It’s worth booking ahead and catching the ferry.

Drinking

Auckland’s nightlife tends to be quiet during the week – if you’re looking for some vital signs, head to Ponsonby Rd, Britomart or the Viaduct. K Rd wakes up late on Friday and Saturday; don’t even bother staggering this way before 11pm.

City Centre

HOTEL DE BRETT Bars

(www.hoteldebrett.com; 2 High St; noon-late) Grab a beer in the cornerbar, a cocktail in the chic art-deco housebar or nab a spot by the fire in the atrium, an interesting covered space fashioned from the alleyway between the old buildings.

OCCIDENTAL Pub

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(www.occidentalbar.co.nz; 6 Vulcan Lane; 7.30am-late Mon-Fri, 9am-late Sat & Sun) Belgian beer, Belgian food (plenty of moules and frites – mussels and chips) and live music are on offer at this historic 1870 pub.

TYLER STREET GARAGE Bar

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(www.tylerstreetgarage.co.nz; 120 Quay St, Britomart; 11.30am-late) Just in case you were in any doubt that this was actually a garage, they’ve left the parking lines painted on the concrete floor. It’s still an excellent place to get well lubricated, with on-to-it staff and a little roof terrace facing over the wharves.

Ponsonby & Grey Lynn

GOLDEN DAWN Bar

(http://thegoldendawntavernofpower.blogspot.com/; 134b Ponsonby Rd (enter Richmond Rd); 4pm-late Tue-Sun) Here be where Ponsonby’s hipsters hide. Occupying an old shop front and an inviting stables yard, this late-night drinking den regularly hosts random happenings: live bands, burlesque, drag and the like.

GYPSY TEA ROOM Cocktail Bar

(www.gypsytearoom.co.nz; 455 Richmond Rd; 4-11.30pm Sun-Thu, 3pm-2am Fri & Sat) No one comes here for tea. This cute wine/cocktail bar has dishevelled charm in bucketloads.

PONSONBY SOCIAL CLUB Bar

(www.ponsonbysocialclub.com; 152 Ponsonby Rd; 5pm-late) Half-and-half alleyway and bar, the back end of this long, narrow space heaves on the weekends when the DJs crank out classic funk and hip-hop.

Newton

WINE CELLAR & WHAMMY BAR Bar

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(St Kevin’s Arcade, K Rd; 5pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 5.30pm-2am Fri & Sat) Secreted down some stairs in an arcade, this is the kind of bar that Buffy the Vampire Slayer would have hung out in on Auckland-based assignments. It’s dark, grungy and very cool, with regular live music in the neighbouring Whammy Bar.

GALBRAITH’S ALEHOUSE Brewery, Pub

(www.alehouse.co.nz; 2 Mt Eden Rd; noon-11pm) Brewing up real ales and lagers on-site, this English-style pub offers bliss on tap. The backdoor beer garden trumps the brightly lit bar.

Kingsland

WINEHOT Wine Bar

(www.winehot.co.nz; 605 New North Rd, Morningside; 5pm-late Tue-Sat) Behind an unlikely-looking doorway, this tiny black-painted and chandelier-festooned hideaway serves an impressive selection of both beer and wine, along with delicious platters of French goodies (terrines, pâtés, baguettes).

Entertainment

The NZ Herald has an in-depth run down of the coming week’s happenings in its Time Out magazine on Thursday and again in its Saturday edition. If you’re planning a big night along K Rd, then visit www.kroad.co.nz for a detailed list of bars and clubs.

Live Music & Nightclubs

The Viaduct, Britomart and K Rd are the main late-night hangouts, but some of the Ponsonby Rd bars continue into the wee smalls.

RAKINOS Dj

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(www.rakinos.com; Level 1, 35 High St) By day it’s a cafe but only head here after dark, when the DJs are spinning old-school hip-hop, funk, Motown and R&B like it’s, well, anytime between 1968 and the present. When the mood takes, it’s hands-down our favourite place to bust a move.

CASSETTE NINE Club

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(www.cassettenine.com; 9 Vulcan Lane, City; noon-late Tue-Sat) Auckland’s most out-there hipsters gravitate to this eccentric bar-club where swishy boys rub shoulders with beardy dudes and girls in very short dresses, and the music ranges from live indie to international DJ sets.

KINGS ARMS TAVERN Live Music

(www.kingsarms.co.nz; 59 France St, Newton) Auckland’s leading small venue for local and international bands, which play four or five nights per week. It’s a rite of passage if you want to get your band noticed.

Cinema

RIALTO Cinema

( 09-369 2417; www.rialto.co.nz; 167 Broadway, Newmarket; adult/child $16.50/10) Screens art-house and international films, plus some of the better mainstream fare.

EVENT CINEMAS Cinema

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( 09-369 2400; www.eventcinemas.co.nz; Level 3, 297 Queen St, City; adult/child $16.50/10.50) Part of Aotea Square’s futuristic Metro mall, which also includes bars and a food court.

NZ FILM ARCHIVES Cinema

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( 09-379 0688; www.filmarchive.org.nz; 300 Karangahape Rd, Newton; 11am-5pm Mon-Sat) A wonderful resource of more than 150,000 Kiwi feature films, documentaries and TV shows which you can watch for free on a TV screen.

Theatre, Classical Music & Comedy

Auckland’s main arts and entertainment complex is grouped around Aotea Sq. Branded the Edge ( 09-357 3355; www.the-edge.co.nz), it comprises the Town Hall, Civic Theatre and Aotea Centre.

AUCKLAND TOWN HALL Classical Music

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(305 Queen St) This elegant Edwardian venue (1911) hosts concert performances by the likes of the NZ Symphony Orchestra (www.nzso.co.nz) and Auckland Philharmonia (www.apo.co.nz).

AOTEA CENTRE Theatre

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(50 Mayoral Dr) Auckland’s largest venue for theatre, dance, ballet and opera, with two main stages: the cavernous ASB Auditorium and the tiny Herald Theatre. NZ Opera (www.nzopera.com) regularly performs here.

CLASSIC COMEDY CLUB Comedy

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( 09-373 4321; www.comedy.co.nz; 321 Queen St; tickets $5-27) Auckland’s top venue for comedy, with performances from Wednesday through to Saturday.

Shopping

Followers of fashion should head to High St in the city, Newmarket’s Teed and Nuffield Sts, and Ponsonby Rd. For second-hand boutiques try K Rd or Ponsonby Rd.

AMOS CHAPPLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Mt Eden (Maungawhau)

From the top of Auckland’s highest volcanic cone (196m) the entire isthmus and both harbours are laid bare. The symmetrical crater (50m deep) is known as Te Ipu Kai a Mataaho (the Food Bowl of Mataaho, the god of things hidden in the ground) and is highly tapu (sacred); don’t enter it, but feel free to explore the remainder of the mountain. The remains of pa (fortified village) terraces and storage pits are clearly visible.

You can drive to the very top or you can join the legions of fitness freaks jogging or trudging up.

NEED TO KNOW

Click here road access 7am-11pm

City Centre

REAL GROOVY Music

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(www.realgroovy.co.nz; 438 Queen St; 9am-7pm Sat-Wed, 9am-9pm Thu & Fri) A music-lovers’ nirvana, this huge store has masses of new, second-hand and rare releases, as well as concert tickets, giant posters, DVDs, books, magazines and clothes.

PAUANESIA Gifts

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(www.pauanesia.co.nz; 35 High St; 9:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat & Sun) A treasure-trove of homewares and gifts with a pronounced Polynesian influence.

UNITY BOOKS Books

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(www.unitybooks.co.nz; 19 High St; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am-9pm Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) Excellent independent bookshop with knowledgeable staff.

ZAMBESI Clothing

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(www.zambesi.co.nz; cnr Vulcan Lane & O’Connell St); Ponsonby (169 Ponsonby Rd); Newmarket (38 Osborne St) The most famous fashion label to come out of NZ, and much sought after by local and international celebs.

Ponsonby & Grey Lynn

MARVEL Clothing

(www.marvelmenswear.co.nz; 143 Ponsonby Rd) Smart, tailored shirts and trousers in interesting fabrics and quirky partywear are the mainstays of this local menswear designer.

TEXAN ART SCHOOLS Art & Crafts

(www.texanartschools.co.nz; 95 Ponsonby Rd; 9.30am-5.30pm); Newmarket (366 Broadway) Despite the name, it’s got nothing to do with the Lone Star State. A collective of 200 local artists sell their wares here.

Kingsland

ROYAL JEWELLERY STUDIO Jewellery

(www.royaljewellerystudio.com; 486 New North Rd; 10am-5pm) Displaying interesting work by local artisans, including some beautiful Maori designs, this is a great place to pick up authentic pounamu (greenstone) jewellery.

Otara

OTARA MARKET Market

(Newbury St; 6am-noon Sat) Held in the car park between the Manukau Polytech and the Otara town centre, this market has a palpable Polynesian atmosphere and is a good place to stock up on South Pacific food, music and fashions. Take bus 497 from Britomart ($6.80, 50 minutes).

Information

Auckland City Hospital ( 09-367 0000; www.adhb.govt.nz; Park Rd, Grafton; 24hr) The city’s main hospital has a dedicated accident and emergency (A&E) service.

Auckland Domestic Airport i-SITE ( 09-256 8480; 7am-9pm) In the Air New Zealand terminal.

Auckland International Airport i-SITE ( 09-275 6467; 24hr) Located on your left as you exit the customs hall.

Native rata blossom

PAUL KENNEDY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Auckland Princes Wharf i-SITE ( 09-307 0612; www.aucklandnz.com; 137 Quay St; 9am-5.30pm)

Auckland SkyCity i-SITE ( 09-363 7182; www.aucklandnz.com; SkyCity Atrium, cnr Victoria & Federal Sts; 8am-8pm)

Getting There & Away

Air

Auckland International Airport (AKL; 09-275 0789; www.aucklandairport.co.nz; Ray Emery Dr, Mangere) is 21km south of the city centre. It has separate international and domestic terminals, each with a tourist information centre. A free shuttle service operates every 15 minutes (5am to 10.30pm) between the terminals and there’s also a signposted footpath (about a 10-minute walk). Domestic airlines flying from Auckland and the destinations they serve:

Air New Zealand ( 09-357 3000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) Flys to Kaitaia, Kerikeri, Whangarei, Hamilton, Tauranga, Whakatane, Gisborne, Rotorua, Taupo, New Plymouth, Napier, Whanganui, Palmerston North, Masterton, Wellington, Nelson, Blenheim, Christchurch, Queenstown and Dunedin.

Jetstar ( 0800 800 995; www.jetstar.com) Flies to Wellington, Christchurch, Queenstown and Dunedin.

Bus

Coaches depart from 172 Quay St, opposite the Ferry Building, except for InterCity services, which depart from SkyCity Coach Terminal ( 09-913 6220; 102 Hobson St).

Go Kiwi ( 07-866 0336; www.go-kiwi.co.nz) Has daily Auckland City–International Airport – Thames–Tairua–Whitianga shuttles.

InterCity ( 09-583 5780; www.intercity.co.nz)

Naked Bus ( 0900 62533; www.nakedbus.com) Naked Buses travel along SH1 as far north as Kerikeri (four hours) and as far south as Wellington (12 hours), as well as heading to Tauranga (3½ hours) and Napier (12 hours).

Glasshouse in the Wintergarden, Auckland Domain (Click here)

OZIMAGES / ALAMY ©

Car, Caravan & Campervan

Apex Car Rentals ( 09-307 1063; www.apexrentals.co.nz; 156 Beach Rd)

Budget ( 09-976 2270; www.budget.co.nz; 163 Beach Rd)

Go Rentals ( 09-257 5142; www.gorentals.co.nz; Auckland Airport)

Hertz ( 09-367 6350; www.hertz.co.nz; 154 Victoria St)

Omega ( 09-377 5573; www.omegarentals.com; 75 Beach Rd)

Thrifty ( 09-309 0111; www.thrifty.co.nz; 150 Khyber Pass Rd)

Train

Overlander ( 0800 872 467; www.tranzscenic.co.nz) trains depart from Britomart station, the largest underground diesel train station in the world. They depart from Auckland at 7.25am (daily late September to April, Friday to Sunday otherwise) and arrive in Wellington at 7.25pm (the return train from Wellington departs and arrives at the same time). A standard fare to Wellington is $129, but a limited number of discounted seats are available for each journey at $79 and $99 (first-in, first-served).

Getting Around

To & From the Airport

A taxi between the airport and the city usually costs between $60 and $80, more if you strike traffic snarls.

Airbus Express ( 09-366 6400; www.airbus.co.nz; 1-way/return adult $16/26, child $6/12) Runs between the terminals and the city, every 10 minutes from 7am to 7pm and at least hourly through the night.

Super Shuttle ( 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz) This convenient door-to-door shuttle charges $28 for one person heading between the airport and a city hotel; the price increases for outlying suburbs.

Public Transport

The Auckland Council runs the Maxx ( 09-366 6400; www.maxx.co.nz) information service, covering buses, trains and ferries, which has an excellent trip-planning feature. The Discovery Pass provides a day’s transport on most trains and buses and on North Shore ferries ($15); buy it on the bus or train or at Fullers offices.

Bus Bus routes spread their tentacles throughout the city and you can purchase a ticket from the driver. Many services terminate around Britomart station. Single-ride fares in the inner city are 50c for an adult and 30c for a child (free for HOP users).

Perhaps the most useful services are the environmentally friendly Link Buses that loop in both directions around three routes (taking in many of the major sights) from 7am to 11pm:

City Link (50c, every seven to 10 minutes) – Britomart, Queen St, Karangahape Rd, with some buses connecting to Wynyard Quarter.

Inner Link (maximum $1.80, every 10 to 15 minutes) – Queen St, SkyCity, Victoria Park, Ponsonby Rd, Karangahape Rd, Museum, Newmarket, Parnell and Britomart.

Outer Link (maximum $3.40, every 15 minutes) – Art Gallery, Ponsonby, Herne Bay, Westmere, MOTAT 2, Pt Chevalier, Mt Albert, St Lukes Mall, Mt Eden, Newmarket, Museum, Parnell, University.

Ferry Auckland’s Edwardian baroque Ferry Building (Quay St) sits grandly at the end of Queen St. Fullers (Click here) ferries (to Bayswater, Birkenhead, Devonport, Great Barrier Island, Half Moon Bay, Northcote, Motutapu, Rangitoto and Waiheke) leave direcly behind the building, while 360 Discovery Offline map Google map ( 0800 360 3472; www.360discovery.co.nz) ferries (to Coromandel, Gulf Harbour, Motuihe, Rotoroa and Tiritiri Matangi) leave from adjacent piers.

Train There are just four train routes: one runs west to Waitakere, one runs south to Onehunga, and two run south to Pukekohe. Services are at least hourly from around 6am to 8pm (later on the weekends). Pay the conductor on the train (one stage $1.70); they’ll come to you.

Taxi

Auckland Co-op Taxis ( 09-300 3000; www.3003000.co.nz) is one of the biggest companies. There’s a surcharge for transport to and from the airport and cruise ships, and for phone orders.

Oneroa Bay, Waiheke Island

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

HAURAKI GULF ISLANDS

The Hauraki Gulf, stretching between Auckland and the Coromandel Peninsula, is dotted with motu (islands) and gives the Bay of Islands stiff competition in the beauty stakes. Some islands are only minutes from the city and make excellent day trips: wine-soaked Waiheke and volcanic Rangitoto really shouldn’t be missed.

Rangitoto Island

Sloping elegantly from the waters of the gulf, 259m Rangitoto (www.rangitoto.org), the largest and youngest of Auckland’s volcanic cones, provides a picturesque backdrop to all of the city’s activities. As recently as 600 years ago it erupted from the sea and was probably active for several years before settling down.

The island makes for a great day trip. Its harsh scoria slopes hold a surprising amount of flora (including the world’s largest pohutukawa forest) and there are excellent walks, but you’ll need sturdy shoes and plenty of water. The walk to the summit only takes an hour and is rewarded with sublime views.

Fullers ( 09-367 9111; www.fullers.co.nz; adult/child return $27/14) has 20-minute ferry services to Rangitoto from Auckland’s Ferry Building (three daily on weekdays, four on weekends) and Devonport (two daily). It also offers the Volcanic Explorer (adult/child $59/30, incl ferry), a guided tour around the island in a canopied ‘road train’.

Waiheke Island

Waiheke is 93 sq km of island bliss only a 35-minute ferry ride from the cenrtral business district. Once they could hardly give land away here; nowadays multimillionaires rub shoulders with the old-time hippies and bohemian artists who gave the island its green repute. While beaches are the big drawcard, wine is a close second.

Sights & Activities

Beaches

Waiheke’s two best beaches are Onetangi, a long stretch of white sand at the centre of the island, and Palm Beach, a pretty little horseshoe bay between Oneroa and Onetangi. Both have nudist sections; head west just past some rocks in both cases. Oneroa and neighbouring Little Oneroa are also excellent, but you’ll be sharing the waters with moored yachts in summer.

Wineries

Waiheke’s hot, dry microclimate has proved excellent for Bordeaux reds, syrah and some superb rosés. We’ve also listed some of our favourite vineyards in the Eating section. Pick up the Waiheke Island of Wine map for a complete list of vinyards on the island.

GOLDIE VINEYARD Winery

(www.goldieroom.co.nz; 18 Causeway Rd; tastings $5-10, refundable with purchase; noon-4pm Wed-Sun Mar-Nov, daily Dec-Feb) Founded as Goldwater Estate in 1978, this is Waiheke’s pioneering vineyard. The tasting room sells well-stocked baskets for a picnic among the vines (for two people $55).

STONYRIDGE Winery

( 09-372 8822; www.stonyridge.com; 80 Onetangi Rd; tastings per wine $3-15; 11.30am-5pm) Famous organic reds, an atmospheric cafe, tours ($10, 35 minutes, 11.30am Saturday and Sunday) and the occasional dance party.

Art & Culture

The Waiheke Art Map brochure, free from the i-SITE, lists 37 galleries and craft stores.

ARTWORKS COMPLEX Arts Centre

(2 Korora Rd; ) The Artworks complex houses a community theatre ( 09-372 2941; www.artworkstheatre.org.nz), an art-house cinema ( 09-372 4240; www.wicc.co.nz; adult/child $14/7), an attention-grabbing art gallery ( 09-372 9907; www.waihekeartgallery.org.nz; admission free; 10am-4pm) and Whittaker’s Musical Museum ( 09-372 5573; www.musical-museum.org; adult/child $5/free; 1-4pm), a collection of antique concert instruments.

STONY BATTER HISTORIC RESERVE Historic Site

(www.fortstonybatter.org.nz; Stony Batter Rd; adult/child $8/5; 10am-3.30pm) At the bottom end of the island, Stony Batter has WWII tunnels and gun emplacements that were built in 1941 to defend Auckland’s harbour. Bring a torch and cash.

CONNELLS BAY Sculpture Garden

( 09-372 8957; www.connellsbay.co.nz; Cowes Bay Rd; adult/child $30/15; by appointment, late Oct to late Apr) A pricey but excellent private sculpture park featuring a stellar roster of NZ artists. Admission is by way of a two-hour guided tour; book ahead.

Walks

Ask at the i-SITE about the island’s beautiful coastal walks (ranging from one to three hours) and the 3km Cross Island Walkway (from Onetangi to Rocky Bay).

Kayaking

ROSS ADVENTURES Kayaking

( 09-372 5550; www.kayakwaiheke.co.nz; Matiatia beach; half-/full-day trips $85/145, per hr hire from $25) It’s the fervently held opinion of Ross that Waiheke offers kayaking every bit as good as the legendary Abel Tasman National Park.

Tours

ANANDA TOURS Wine, Food

( 09-372 7530; www.ananda.co.nz) Offers a gourmet wine and food tour ($110) and a wine connoisseur’s tour ($210). Small-group, informal tours can be customised, including visits to artists’ studios.

FULLERS Wine, Food

( 09-367 9111; www.fullers.co.nz) Runs a Wine On Waiheke Tour (adult $115, 4½ hours, departs Auckland 1pm) that visits three of the island’s top wineries and includes a platter of nibbles. Taste Of Waiheke (adult $125, 5½ hours, departs Auckland 11am) also includes three wineries plus an olive grove and light lunch. There’s also a 1½-hour Explorer Tour (adult/child $49/25, departs Auckland 10am, 11am and noon). All prices include the ferry and an all-day bus pass.

Eating

TE WHAU Winery $$$

( 09-372 7191; www.tewhau.com; 218 Te Whau Dr; mains $42-44; lunch Fri-Sun, dinner Sat, extended Dec-Feb) Perched on the end of Te Whau peninsula, this winery restaurant has exceptional views, food and service, and one of the finest wine lists you’ll see in the country. Try its own impressive Bordeaux blends, merlot, chardonnay and rosé for $3 per taste (11am to 5pm).

DRAGONFIRED Pizzeria $

(Little Oneroa Beach; mains $8-12; 11am-8pm; ) Specialising in what it describes as ‘artisan woodfired food’, this black caravan by the beach serves the three Ps: pizza, polenta plates and pocket bread. It’s easily the best place for cheap eats on the island.

CABLE BAY Winery $$$

( 09-372 5889; www.cablebayvineyards.co.nz; 12 Nick Johnstone Dr; mains $42-45; lunch daily, dinner Thu-Sun, extended Dec-Feb) Impressive ubermodern architecture, sculpture and beautiful views set the scene for this acclaimed restaurant. The food is sublime but if the budget won’t stretch to a meal, stop in for a wine tasting (from $8) or a snack on the terrace.

Information

Waiheke Island i-SITE ( 09-372 1234; www.waihekenz.com; 118 Ocean View Rd; 9am-5pm) As well as the very helpful main office, there’s a (usually unstaffed) counter in the ferry terminal at Matiatia Wharf.

Getting There & Away

360 Discovery ( 0800 360 3472; www.360discovery.co.nz) You can pick up the 360 Discovery tourist ferry at Orapiu on its journey between Auckland and Coromandel Town. However Orapiu is quite remote and not served by buses.

Fullers ( 09-367 9111; www.fullers.co.nz; return adult/child $35/18; 5.20am-11.45pm Mon-Fri, 6.25am-11.45pm Sat, 7am-9.30pm Sun) Has frequent passenger ferries from Auckland to Matiatia Wharf (on the hour from 9am to 5pm), some via Devonport.

Vineyards (p 83), Waiheke Island

Getting Around

Bike

Waiheke Bike Hire ( 09-372 7937; Matiatia Wharf) Hires mountain bikes (half/full day $25/35) from its base near the wharf and at the Oneroa i-SITE.

Bus

The island has regular bus services, starting from Matiatia Wharf and heading through Oneroa (adult/child $1.50/80c, five minutes) on their way to all the main settlements, as far west as Onetangi (adult/child $4.20/2.40, 30 minutes); see Maxx ( 09-366 6400; www.maxx.co.nz) for timetables. A day pass (adult/child $8.20/5) is available from the Fullers counter at Matiatia Wharf.

Car, Motorbike & Scooter

Waiheke Auto Rentals ( 09-372 8998; www.waihekerentals.co.nz; Matiatia Wharf; per calendar day car or scooter from $59, motorbike or 4WD from $79) Excess $1500, dropping to $1000 if you’re over 25 years old. There’s an additional charge of 65c per kilometre for cars or 4WDs.

Taxi

Waiheke Independent Taxis ( 0800 300 372)

WEST AUCKLAND

West Auckland epitomises rugged: wild black-sand beaches, bush-shrouded ranges, and mullet-haired, black-T-shirt-wearing ‘Westies’. The latter is just one of several stereotypes of the area’s denizens. Others include the back-to-nature hippie, the eccentric bohemian artist and the dope-smoking surfer dude, all attracted to a simple life at the edge of the bush.

Titirangi

This little village marks the end of Auckland’s suburban sprawl and is a good place to spot all of the stereotypes mentioned above over a caffe latte, fine wine or cold beer. Once home to NZ’s greatest modern painter, Colin McCahon, there remains an artsy feel to the place.

It’s a mark of the esteem in which Colin McCahon is held that the house he lived and painted in during the 1950s, McCahon House (www.mccahonhouse.org.nz; 67 Otitori Bay Rd; admission $5; 10am-2pm Wed, Sat & Sun), has been opened to the public as a minimuseum.

Detour:

Karekare

Few stretches of sand have more personality than Karekare. Wild and gorgeously undeveloped, this famous beach has been the setting for onscreen moments both high- and lowbrow, from Oscar-winner The Piano to Xena, Warrior Princess.

Karekare rates as one of the most dangerous beaches in the country, with strong surf and ever-present rips, so don’t even think about swimming unless the beach is being patrolled by lifeguards (usually only in summer). Pearl Jam singer Eddie Vedder nearly drowned here while visiting Neil Finn’s Karekare pad.

To get here take Scenic Dr and Piha Rd until you reach the well-signposted turn-off to Karekare Rd.

Piha

If you notice an Auckland surfer dude with a faraway look, chances are they’re daydreaming about Piha… or just stoned. This beautifully rugged, iron-sand beach has long been a favourite for refugees from the city’s stresses – whether for day trips, weekend teenage parties or family holidays.

Although Piha is popular, it’s also incredibly dangerous, with wild surf and strong undercurrents; so much so that it’s spawned its own popular reality TV show, Piha Rescue.

There’s no public transport to Piha, but NZ Surf’n’Snow Tours ( 09-828 0426; www.newzealandsurftours.com; 1-way $25, return trip incl surfing gear $99) provides shuttles when the surf’s up.

COROMANDEL PENINSULA

Getting There & Around

Air

Sunair ( 07-575 7799; www.sunair.co.nz) Twice-daily flights to Whitianga from Auckland and Great Barrier Island, and weekday flights to Whitianga from Hamilton, Rotorua and Tauranga.

Boat

360 Discovery ( 0800 360 3472; www.360discovery.co.nz) Operates ferries to/from Auckland (one-way/return $55/88, two hours) via Orapiu on Waiheke Island (one-way/return $44/77, 70 minutes), five times per week (daily in summer). The boats dock at Hannafords Wharf, Te Kouma, where free buses shuttle passengers the 10km into Coromandel Town. It makes a great day trip from Auckland (same-day return $69), and there’s a day-tour option that includes a hop-on, hop-off bus (adult/child $94/57).

Piha Beach

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Bus

Go Kiwi ( 07-866 0336; www.go-kiwi.co.nz) Has daily Auckland City–International Airport–Thames–Tairua–Whitianga shuttles year-round, with a connection to Opoutere and Whangamata.

InterCity (www.intercity.co.nz) Has two routes to/from the peninsula: Auckland–Thames–Paeroa–Waihi–Tauranga and Hamilton–Te Aroha–Paeroa–Thames–Coromandel Town. Local routes include Thames–Coromandel Town–Whitianga and Whitianga–Tairua–Thames.

Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) Buses on the Auckland–Tauranga–Mt Maunganui–Rotorua–Gisborne route stop at Ngatea, where local associate Tairua Bus Company continues on to Whitianga.

Tairua Bus Company ( 07-864 7194; www.tairuabus.co.nz) As well as local buses on the Thames–Tairua–Hahei–Whitianga–Coromandel Town route, TBC has a Hamilton–Cambridge–Te Aroha–Thames–Tairua service.

Car

Car is the only option for accessing some of the more remote areas, but be careful to check hire agreements as there are plenty of gravel roads and a few streams to ford.

Thames

Dinky wooden buildings from the 19th-century gold rush still dominate Thames, but grizzly prospectors have long been replaced by alternative lifestylers. If you’re a vegetarian ecowarrior you’ll feel right at home.

Sights & Activities

GOLDMINE EXPERIENCE Mine

(www.goldmine-experience.co.nz; cnr Moanataiari Rd & Pollen St; adult/child $15/5; 10am-4pm daily Jan-Mar, 10am-1pm Apr & May, Sep-Dec) Walk through a mine tunnel, watch a stamper battery crush rock, learn about the history of the Cornish miners and try your hand at panning for gold ($2 extra).

EYEZ OPEN Cycling

( 07-868 9018; www.eyezopen.co.nz; 1- to 4-day tours $150-770) Rents out bikes (per day $30) and organises small-group cycling tours of the peninsula.

Eating

ROCCO Modern Nz $$

( 07-868 8641; 109 Sealey St; mains $23-34; dinner Tue-Sun) Housed in one of Thames’ gorgeous kauri villas, Rocco serves tapas and more substantial mains, making good use of local ingredients such as mussels and fish.

NAKONTONG Thai $$

( 07-868 6821; 728 Pollen St; mains $16-20; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily; ) The most popular restaurant in town by a country mile. Although the bright lighting may not induce romance, the tangy Thai dishes will provide a warm glow.

Information

Thames i-SITE ( 07-868 7284; www.thamesinfo.co.nz; 206 Pollen St; 9am-5pm)

Coromandel Town

Even more crammed with heritage buildings than Thames, Coromandel Town is a thoroughly quaint little place. Its natty cafes, interesting art stores, excellent sleeping options and delicious smoked mussels could keep you here longer than you expected.

Sights & Activities

COROMANDEL GOLDFIELD CENTRE & STAMPER BATTERY Historic Building

( 07-866 8758; 360 Buffalo Rd; adult/child $10/5) The rock-crushing machine clatters into life during the informative one-hour tours of this 1899 plant; call ahead for times. You can also try panning for gold ($5). Outside of the tours it’s worth stopping for a gander at NZ’s largest working waterwheel.

DRIVING CREEK RAILWAY & POTTERIES Narrow-Gauge Railway

( 07-866 8703; www.drivingcreekrailway.co.nz; 380 Driving Creek Rd; adult/child $25/10; departures 10.15am & 2pm) A lifelong labour of love for its conservationist owner, this unique train runs up steep grades, across four trestle bridges, along two spirals and a double switchback, and through two tunnels, finishing at the ‘Eye-full Tower’.

COROMANDEL KAYAK ADVENTURES Kayaking

( 07-866 7466; www.kayakadventures.co.nz) Offers paddle-powered tours ranging from half-day ecotours (for one/two/three/four paddlers $200/220/270/360) to fishing trips (half/full day $200/385). It also rents kayaks (per hour/day from $25/65).

Sleeping

LITTLE FARM Apartments $$

( 07-866 8427; www.thelittlefarmcoromandel.co.nz; 750 Tiki Rd; r $115-130; ) Overlooking a private wetland reserve at the rear of a fair-dinkum farm, these three comfortable units offer plenty of peace and quiet. The largest has a full kitchen and superb sunset views.

GREEN HOUSE B&B $$

( 07-866 7303; www.greenhousebandb.co.nz; 505 Tiki Rd; r $150-165; ) Good old-fashioned hospitality and smartly furnished rooms are on offer here. The downstairs room opens onto the host’s lounge, so it’s worth paying $15 more for an upstairs room with a view.

JACARANDA LODGE B&B $$

( 07-866 8002; www.jacarandalodge.co.nz; 3195 Tiki Rd; s $80, d $135-165; ) Located among 6 hectares of farmland and rose gardens, this two-storey cottage offers a bucolic retreat. Some rooms share bathrooms but expect fluffy towels and personalised soap in mini kete (woven flax bags).

Eating & Drinking

UMU Cafe $

(22 Wharf Rd; breakfast $11-18, lunch $12-25, dinner $14-32; breakfast, lunch & dinner; ) Umu serves up classy cafe fare, including excellent pizza, mouth-watering counter food (tarts and quiches around $7), superb coffee and tummy-taming breakfasts.

PEPPER TREE Modern Nz $$

( 07-866 8211; www.peppertreerestaurant.co.nz; 31 Kapanga Rd; lunch $22-26, dinner $26-36; lunch & dinner; ) C-Town’s most upmarket option dishes up generously proportioned meals with particular emphasis on local seafood. On a summer’s evening, the courtyard tables under the shady tree are the place to be.

MUSSEL KITCHEN Seafood $$

(www.musselkitchen.co.nz; cnr SH25 & 309 Rd; mains $15-20; lunch daily year-round, dinner Dec-Mar) Designed to look like a historic store, this very cool cafe-bar sits among fields 3km south of town. Mussels are served in a multitude of ways alongside an eclectic globetrotting menu (laksa, barbecued pork ribs, pasta). In summer, the garden bar is irresistible.

Driving Creek Railway (Click here)

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Information

Coromandel Town i-SITE ( 07-866 8598; www.coromandeltown.co.nz; 355 Kapanga Rd; 9am-5pm; )

Whitianga

Whitianga’s big attractions are the sandy beaches of Mercury Bay and the diving, boating and kayaking opportunities afforded by the craggy coast and nearby Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve. The pretty harbour is a renowned base for game-fishing (especially marlin and tuna, particularly between January and March).

Sights & Activities

BEACHES Swimming, Walking

Buffalo Beach stretches along Mercury Bay, north of the Harbour. A five-minute passenger ferry ride will take you across the harbour to Whitianga Rock Scenic & Historical Reserve, Flaxmill Bay, Shakespeare Cliff Lookout, Lonely Bay, Cooks Beach and Captain Cook’s Memorial, all within walking distance.

Cathedral Cove (Click here)

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

LOST SPRING Spa

(www.thelostspring.co.nz; 121a Cook Dr; per hr/day $28/60; 11am-6pm Sun-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat) This expensive but intriguing Disney-meets-Rotorua thermal complex comprises a series of hot pools in a lush junglelike setting, complete with an erupting volcano. Yet this is an adult’s indulgence (children under 14 not permitted), leaving the grown-ups to marinate themselves in tropical tranquillity, cocktail in hand.

Tours

There are a baffling number of tours to Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve, where you’ll see interesting rock formations and, if you’re lucky, dolphins, fur seals, penguins and orcas.

BANANA BOAT Cruise

( 07-866 5617; www.whitianga.co.nz/banana boat; rides $10-30; Dec 26-Jan 31) Monkey around in the bay on the bright-yellow (naturally), motorised Banana Boat – or split to Cathedral Cove.

WINDBORNE Sailing

( 027 475 2411; www.windborne.co.nz; day sail $95) Day sails in a 19m 1928 schooner.

Eating

CAFE NINA Cafe $

(20 Victoria St; mains $9-19; 8am-3pm) Barbecue for breakfast? Why the hell not? Too cool to be constricted to four walls, the kitchen grills bacon and eggs on an outdoor hotplate while the punters spill out onto tables in the park.

SQUIDS Seafood $$

( 07-867 1710; www.squids.co.nz; 15/1 Blacksmith Ln; mains $17-25; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) On a corner facing the harbour, this informal restaurant offers that rarest of conjunctions: good-value seafood meals in a prime location. If you don’t fancy the steamed mussels, smoked seafood platter, chowder or catch of the day, steak’s an option.

Information

Whitianga i-SITE ( 07-866 5555; www.whitianga.co.nz; 66 Albert St; internet per 15min $3; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun, extended in summer) Information and internet access.

Getting There & Around

Sunair (www.sunair.co.nz) operates flights to Whitianga from Auckland, Great Barrier Island, Hamilton, Rotorua and Tauranga. Bus services are offered by InterCity, Tairua Bus Company and Go Kiwi.

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Hot Water Beach

Justifiably famous, Hot Water Beach is quite extraordinary. For two hours either side of low tide, you can access an area of sand in front of a rocky outcrop at the middle of the beach where hot water oozes up from beneath the surface. Bring a spade, dig a hole and voila , you’ve got a personal spa pool. Surfers stop off before the main beach to access some decent breaks.

Spades ($5) can be hired from the Hot Water Beach Store (Pye Pl), which has a cafe attached, while surfboards (per hour $20) and body boards ($15) can be hired from the neighbouring surf shop.

Hahei

A legendary Kiwi beach town, little Hahei balloons to bursting in summer but is nearly abandoned otherwise – apart from the busloads of tourists doing the obligatory stop-off at Cathedral Cove.

Sights & Activities

CATHEDRAL COVE Beach

Beautiful Cathedral Cove, with its famous gigantic stone arch and natural waterfall shower, is best enjoyed early or late in the day – avoiding the worst of the hordes. At the time of research the arch was roped off due to rock falls, but it’s still worth taking the coastal walk to the cove regardless.

At the car park, a kilometre north of Hahei, the signs suggest that the walk will take 45 minutes, but anyone who’s not on a ventilator will do it in 30. The walk from Hahei Beach to Cathedral Cove takes about 70 minutes.

HAHEI BEACH Beach

Long, lovely Hahei Beach is made more magical by the view to the craggy islands in the distance.

CATHEDRAL COVE SEA KAYAKING Kayaking

( 07-866 3877; www.seakayaktours.co.nz; 88 Hahei Beach Rd; half/full day $95/150; tours 9am & 2pm) Runs guided kayaking trips around the rock arches, caves and islands in the Cathedral Cove area. The Remote Coast Tour heads the other way when conditions permit, visiting caves, blowholes and a long tunnel.

HAHEI EXPLORER Boat Tour

( 07-866 3910; www.haheiexplorer.co.nz; adult/child $70/40) Hour-long jetboat rides touring the coast.

Sleeping & Eating

TATAHI LODGE Hostel, Motel $

( 07-866 3992; www.tatahilodge.co.nz; Grange Rd; dm $29, r $86-123, units $150-400; ) A wonderful place where backpackers are treated with at least as much care and respect as the lush bromeliad-filled garden. The dorm rooms and excellent communal facilities are just as attractive as the pricier motel units.

CHURCH Cottages $$

( 07-866 3533; www.thechurchhahei.co.nz; 87 Hahei Beach Rd; cottages $135-230; ) Set within a subtropical garden, these beautifully kitted-out, rustic timber cottages have plenty of character. The ultracharming wooden church at the top of the drive is Hahei’s swankiest eatery (mains $33 to $37), offering an ambitious (if overpriced) menu of adventurous country-style cooking.

Getting There & Around

See Click here for bus connections. In the height of summer the council runs a bus service from the Cooks Beach side of the ferry landing to Hot Water Beach, stopping at Hahei (adult/child $3/2). Another option on the same route is the Cathedral Cove Shuttle.

Rotorua & the Centre

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF LONELY PLANET MAPS

E-reader devices vary in their ability to show our maps. To get the most out of the maps in this guide, use the zoom function on your device. Or, visit http://media.lonelyplanet.com/ebookmaps and grab a PDF download or print out all the maps in this guide.

ROTORUA & THE CENTRE

ROTORUA & THE CENTRE’S HIGHLIGHTS

ROTORUA & THE CENTRE’S BEST…

NEED TO KNOW

ROTORUA & THE CENTRE ITINERARIES

DISCOVER ROTORUA & THE CENTRE

Rotorua

Around Rotorua

Bay of Plenty

Waikato

The King Country

Lake Taupo Region

The Central Plateau

Top of chapter

Rotorua & the Centre

Volcanic activity defines this region, and nowhere is this subterranean sexiness more obvious than in Rotorua. Here the daily business of life goes on among steaming hot springs, explosive geysers, bubbling mud pools and the billows of sulphurous gas responsible for the town’s ‘unique’ eggy smell.

Rotorua is also a stronghold of Maori tradition: check out a power-packed concert performance, chow down at a hangi (feast)or learn the techniques behind Maori arts and crafts.

To the south of Auckland, verdant fields fold down into New Zealand’s mightiest river, the Waikato, which lends its name to the region. Adrenaline junkies are drawn to the wild surf of Raglan and rough-and-tumble underground pursuits in the extraordinary Waitomo Caves. And the thrills don’t stop there. The area around Taupo and Tongariro National Park now rivals Rotorua for daredevil escapades: jetboating, bungy jumping, skydiving, skiing or just soaking in a thermal pool.

Wai-o-Tapu Thermal Wonderland (Click here   )

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Whakaari (White Island; Click here   )

RICHARD CUMMINS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Rotorua & the Centre

Waitomo Caves

Geothermal Rotorua

Maori Culture, Rotorua

Bay of Plenty

Taupo

Tongariro National Park

Top of chapter

Rotorua & the Centre’s Highlights

Waitomo Caves

Luring tourists for more than 100 years, Waitomo is an amazing place to explore, above ground or below. Hundreds of caves perforate the region’s limestone landscape, and there are plenty of opportunities to delve underground, either on a dry walking tour or a wet, adrenaline-charged subterranean adventure.

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Need to Know

BEST TIME TO VISIT Spring: cave water-levels are higher and visitor numbers not-so-high SHORT ON TIME? Take a 45-minute Glowworm Cave trip For further coverage, Click here

Waitomo Caves Don’t Miss List

BY CELINA YAPP, WAITOMO I-SITE

1 GOING UNDERGROUND

There are five dry caving options here, including trips into the Waitomo Glowworm, Aranui and Ruakuri caves (Click here). On the way out of the Glowworm Cave you take a boat ride under the glow-worms, which is a really magical experience: tours with Spellbound (Click here) also involve a boat ride. The 1.6km-long Ruakuri Cave is the longest dry cave walk here, with some great cave formations. Then there are 10 different adventure caving options, five of which include black-water rafting. You don’t have to be young to tackle these: we’ve booked a 70-year-old granny on one of the shorter trips!

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

2 LOCAL WALKS

The 5km Waitomo Walkway (Click here) starts opposite the i-SITE, and winds through bush and farmland along the Waitomo Stream to the Ruakuri Scenic Reserve. Once you get there (you can also drive), the 1km Ruakuri Loop Walk is one of the best short walks in the country. It’s steeped in history and has some amazing natural features: cliffs, outcrops, limestone arches…Take some time to absorb it all.

3 EATING & DRINKING

Waitomo General Store has basic provisions, and it does awesome breakfasts, sausages, pies, homemade burgers…all with organic meat. Huhu (Click here) is superb in the evening, or Morepork Cafe (Click here) does a mean pizza. Finish up with a beer at Curly’s Bar (Click here) and soak up some local atmosphere.

4 AROUND WAITOMO

About 25km from Waitomo along Te Anga Rd, follow a track to the 17m-high Mangapohue Natural Bridge (Click here) – all that remains of an ancient cave. You can also see fossilised oysters here. A bit further on is the freely accessible Piripiri Cave: grab a torch and go down the steps. A further 2km walk brings you to Marokopa Falls – a magnificent 30m waterfall a short walk from the road.

Mangapohue Natural Bridge

RADIUS IMAGES / ALAMY ©

Go Geothermal!

It seems wherever you go in this region there’s a bubbling pool of mud, a steaming hot spring, an erupting geyser or a plume of sulphurous gas egging its way into your nostrils. Much of it is stand-and-watch-type stuff (too hot to handle!), but don’t miss the chance to immerse yourself in some hot springs: try Rotorua’s Polynesian Spa (Click here) for starters.

Geyser springs at Te Puia (Click here   )

MARK AVELLINO / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Maori Rotorua

Rotorua is a great (and very organised) place to engage with Maori culture. Wander around a traditional Maori community at Whakarewarewa Thermal Village (Click here; don’t miss the geothermally cooked corn!) and catch a cultural performance while you’re there. Other established concert-and- hangi faves include Tamaki Maori Village and Mitai Maori Village (both Click here).

RICHARD I'ANSON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Bay of Plenty

Stretching north from Rotorua are the shimmering surf, sands and laid-back coastal towns of the Bay of Plenty. Swim with dolphins in Tauranga (Click here), catch some waves and tramp up Mauao (aka Mt Maunganui, Click here) or shake a leg east to sunny, chilled-out Whakatane (Click here). And after all that action, there are some brilliant places to eat and drink here.

Mt Maunganui (Click here   )

PAUL KENNEDY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Sporty Taupo

The main urban hub on the Central Plateau, Taupo (Click here) is the North Island’s version of Queenstown – a place to challenge your sense of self-preservation with skydiving, bungy jumping, white-water rafting, snow sports, mountain biking… It’s a progressive, upbeat sort of town, the adrenaline generated by outdoor activities infusing both culture and commerce.

Bungy jumping over the Waikato River (Click here   )

ANDERS BLOMQVIST / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Tongariro National Park

Want some alpine time? Make a beeline for Tongariro (Click here), NZ’s oldest national park. Crowned by three snowy volcanic peaks, the park is the North Island’s best ski spot, and is also home to the country’s best day walk, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. If you have a bit more time up your sleeve (or in your boots), tackle the longer Tongariro Northern Circuit, which is dotted with volcanic craters and lakes.

Crater Lake (Click here   )

PHILIP & KAREN SMITH / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Top of chapter

Rotorua & the Centre’s Best…

Extreme Action

»Black-water rafting (Click here) Fast, wet, dark, claustrophobic and subterranean: bring it on!

»Skydiving (Click here) Cross it off your bucket list in Taupo

»Zorbing (Click here) Rolling downhill inside a plastic bubble with a bucket of water thrown in…how fabulously illogical!

»Snowboarding (Click here) Strap a plank to your ankles and careen down Mt Ruapehu

Swim Spots

»Ngarunui Beach (Click here) Lifesaver-patrolled kid-sized surf just south of Raglan

»Waikite Valley Thermal Pools (Click here) Take a scenic drive south of Rotorua for a soothing geothermal soak

»Whakaipo Bay (Click here) A ‘refreshing’ dip in chilly Lake Taupo will banish even the sternest of hangovers

»Tauranga (Click here) Jump into the ocean and splash around with dolphins off Tauranga

Eat Streets

»The Strand, Tauranga (Click here) Harbour-side eats, drinks and people-watching

»Victoria St, Hamilton (Click here) Central Hamilton’s hip foodie strip (with the Hood St bars around the corner)

»Maunganui Rd, Mt Maunganui (Click here) While away a sunny afternoon in the Mount’s cafes and bars

»Tutanekai St, Rotorua (Click here) Cafes and multicultural eats down near Lake Rotorua

Small Towns

»Raglan (Click here) Multicultural surfie nirvana on the wave-washed Waikato coast

»Mt Maunganui (Click here) Solid surf and a cafe-strewn main street in the shadow of Mauao

»Waitomo (Click here) It’s not just about caves and glow-worms: Waitomo township is a wee winner!

»Cambridge (Click here) Anglo eccentricities abound in this horse-happy town

Zorbing (Click here   )

MICAH WRIGHT /LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Top of chapter

Need to Know

ADVANCE PLANNING

»One month before Organise any internal flights, car hire, and seats on the Overlander train through the North Island’s heartland

»Two weeks before Book accommodation across the region, a surf lesson in Raglan (if it’s summer), and a ski lesson on Mt Ruapehu (if it’s winter)

»One week before Book a Maori cultural performance in Rotorua, an underground adventure in Waitomo Caves and a skydive in Taupo

RESOURCES

»Rotorua i-SITE (www.rotoruanz.com) Info on accommodation, Maori culture, activities and family stuff

»Tauranga i-SITE (www.bayofplenty.co.nz) The Bay of Plenty’s greatest hits

»Hamilton i-SITE (www.hamiltonwaikato.com) The low-down on NZ’s fourth-biggest town

»Great Lake Taupo (www.greatlaketaupo.com) Deals and info on accommodation, events and things to do around the big lake

»Visit Ruapehu (www.visitruapehu.co.nz) Shine a light into NZ’s moody, mountainous heart

GETTING AROUND

»Hire a car For the freedom to explore

»Bus Between the larger towns

»Walk Around the Mauao Base Track in Mt Maunganui

»Cruise Across Lake Rotorua and Lake Taupo

»Train The Overlander tracks between Auckland and Wellington via Hamilton, Waitomo Caves and Tongariro National Park

BE FOREWARNED

»Surf Safety The beaches around the Bay of Plenty and Raglan on the Waikato coast are fab for surfing, but go easy if you’re not strapped to a board: rips and undertows take as much water away from the beach as the waves bring in

Surfing at Ngarunui Beach (Click here   )

MERTEN SNIJDERS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Top of chapter

Rotorua & the Centre Itineraries

Go for a roam around the middle of the North Island. Between Auckland and Wellington you’ll discover hip cities, hippie surf towns, brilliant museums and an overload of heart-starting activities.

Mt Ruapehu (Click here   ) erupting

RUTH EASTHAM & MAX PAOLI / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

HAMILTON TO TAURANGA WAIKATO WANDERINGS

On the banks of the slow-rolling Waikato River, (1) Hamilton doesn’t score heavily with scenery or big-ticket attractions, but it’s a vibrant little city with great eateries, a beaut museum and an effervescent nocturnal scene. Trundle over the hills to (2) Raglan, NZ’s quintessential surf town with a string of brilliant breaks south of town (great pub too!). Alternatively, over in (3) Cambridge you can express your equine enthusiasms on a horse-stud tour, or swan around the main street in your riding boots and jodhpurs.

Heading south, the amazing (4) Waitomo Caves are a must-see (or perhaps, a must-do). Here’s your chance to don a wet suit and a helmet with a torch strapped to the top, and hurl yourself into an underground limestone chasm. Brilliant! Or, if adrenaline addiction is less of a motivator, take a tour of a dazzling glow-worm cave or just hang with the locals at the cafe and pub above ground.

To round out your tour, track north to the Bay of Plenty: (5) Tauranga is a sophisticated city and NZ’s biggest port. And like any port town, the incoming tide keeps things worldly and progressive. Cool down with dinner and drinks on the Strand.

TAURANGA TO TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK SEA TO SUMMIT

Seaside (1) Tauranga is lovely, but the locals insist (2) Mt Maunganui is lovelier (and we tend to agree). This sandy little town is home to a fab surf break, cool cafes and bars, and ‘the Mount’ itself. Walk around the base of this photogenic hill (‘Mauao’ in Maori), dappled with red pohutukawa blooms in summer, or hike up its steep slopes.

Track south to (3) Rotorua, a Kiwi highlight for any number of reasons: ogle the astonishing geothermal attractions (geysers, mud pools, mineral pools), catch an authentic Maori cultural performance and hangi, or blow away the cobwebs with some extreme sports (skydiving, zorbing, jetboating, white-water rafting…). And don’t miss the newly extended Rotorua Museum.

Further south, (4) Taupo sits on the shores of NZ’s biggest lake. Drop a line in the water, or try kayaking, jetboating or skydiving (with 30,000-plus jumps a year, Taupo bills itself the ‘Skydiving Capital of the World’). There are some hip places to eat and drink here, too.

Next stop is (5) Tongariro National Park, the oldest national park in NZ, and home to some awesome tramping tracks and winter skiing on Mt Ruapehu.

Top of chapter

Discover Rotorua & the Centre

At a Glance

»Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty (Click here and Click here) Volcanic hubbub, Maori culture and laid-back beachiness.

»Waikato & the King Country (Click here and Click here) Agricultural towns above ground; amazing caves below.

»Taupo & the Central Plateau (Click here and Click here) Skiing, skydiving and volcanic mountain wilderness.

Pier on Lake Rotorua

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

ROTORUA

Catch a whiff of Rotorua’s sulphur-rich, asthmatic airs and you’ve already got a taste of NZ’s most dynamic thermal area, home to spurting geysers, steaming hot springs and exploding mud pools. The Maori revered this place, naming one of the most spectacular springs Wai-O-Tapu (Sacred Waters). Today 35% of the population is Maori, with their cultural performances and traditional hangi as big an attraction as the landscape itself.

Sights

Rotorua

Top Sights

Rotorua Museum D2

Sights

1  Millennium Hotel Rotorua C3

2  Novotel Rotorua B1

3  Tamaki Maori Village C3

Activities, Courses & Tours

4  Kawarau Jet B1

Lakeland Queen (see 6)

Mokoia Island Wai Ora Experiences (see 4)

5  Polynesian Spa D3

6  Volcanic Air Safaris B1

Sleeping

7 Jack & Di's Lake View Lodge A1

8  Millennium Hotel C3

9 Regent of Rotorua B2

10  Six on Union B4

Eating

11  Bistro 1284 A3

12  Indian Star B2

13  Lime Caffeteria C2

14  Sabroso B2

Drinking

15  Brew B2

16  Pig & Whistle B2

Shopping

17 Rotorua Night Market B3

Rotorua’s main drawcard is Te Whakarewarewa (pronounced 'fa-ka-re-wa-re-wa'), a thermal reserve 3km south of the city centre. There are more than 500 springs here, including a couple of famed geysers. The two main tourist operations are Te Puia and Whakarewarewa Thermal Village.

TE PUIA Geysers

( 0800 837 842, 07-348 9047; www.tepuia.com; Hemo Rd; tour & daytime cultural performance adult/child $57.50/29, tour, evening concert & hangi $110/55, combination $145/72.50; 8am-6pm summer, to 5pm winter) The most famous Te Whakarewarewa spring is Pohutu (‘Big Splash’ or ‘Explosion’), a geyser which erupts up to 20 times a day, spurting hot water up to 30m skyward. You’ll know when it’s about to blow because the Prince of Wales’ Feathers geyser will start up shortly before. Both these geysers form part of Te Puia, the most polished of New Zealand’s Maori cultural attractions.

Tours take 90 minutes and depart hourly from 9am (the last tour departs at 4pm in winter, 5pm in summer).

Daytime 45-minute cultural performances commence at 10.15am, 12.15pm and 3.15pm; nightly three-hour Te Po indigenous concerts and hangi feasts start at 6pm.

If You Like...

Geothermal Stuff

If you like Te Puia and Whakarewarewa Thermal Village, we think you’ll like these other Rotorua hot spots.

1 HELL’S GATE & WAI ORA SPA

( 07-345 3151; www.hellsgate.co.nz; SH30; admission adult/child/family $30/15/75, mud bath & spa $105, massage per 30min/1hr $85/135; 8.30am-8.30pm) A 10-hectare geothermal reserve with a huge thermal waterfall, Maori carvers and weavers, and the indulgent Wai Ora Spa.

2 WAIMANGU VOLCANIC VALLEY

( 07-366 6137; www.waimangu.com; 587 Waimangu Rd; walking tour adult/child $34.50/11, boat cruise $42.50/11; 8.30am-5pm daily, to 6pm Jan, last admission 3.45pm, or 4.45pm in Jan) Spectacular geothermal features including the 80°C Inferno Crater Lake, and Frying Pan Lake, the largest hot spring in the world.

3 WAI-O-TAPU THERMAL WONDERLAND

( 07-366 6333; www.waiotapu.co.nz; 201 Waiotapu Loop Rd; admission adult/child/family $32.50/11/80; 8.30am-5pm, last admission 3.45pm) The boiling, multihued Champagne Pool, bubbling mud pool, stunning mineral terraces and the Lady Knox Geyser… Amazing!

4 WAIKITE VALLEY THERMAL POOLS

( 07-333 1861; www.hotpools.co.nz; 648 Waikite Valley Rd; public pools adult/child/family $14/7/35, private pools 40min $18; 10am-9pm) Excellent open-air thermal pools, formalised in the 1970s but utilised for centuries before then.

WHAKAREWAREWA THERMAL VILLAGE Springs, Village

Offline map Google map

( 07-349 3463; www.whakarewarewa.com; 17 Tyron St; tour & cultural performance adult/child $30/13) Whakarewarewa Thermal Village, on the eastern side of Te Whakarewarewa, is a living village, where tangata whenua (the locals) still reside, as they and their ancestors have for centuries. It’s these local villagers who show you around and tell you the stories of their way of life and the significance of the steamy bubbling pools, silica terraces and the geysers that, although inaccessible from the village, are easily viewed from vantage points (the view of Pohutu is just as good from here as it is from Te Puia, and considerably cheaper).

There are cultural performances at 11.15am and 2pm, and guided tours at 9am, 10am, 11am, noon, 1pm, 3pm and 4pm.

PAUL KENNEDY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Rotorua Museum

This outstanding museum occupies a grand Tudor-style edifice. It was originally an elegant spa retreat called the Bath House (1908): displays in the former shower rooms give a fascinating insight into some of the eccentric therapies once practised here, including ‘electric baths’ and the Bergonie Chair.

A gripping 20-minute film on the history of Rotorua, including the Tarawera eruption, runs every 20 minutes from 9am (not for small kids – the seats vibrate and the eruption noises are authentic!). The fabulous new Don Stafford Wing houses eight object-rich galleries dedicated to Rotorua’s Te Arawa people, featuring woodcarving, flax weaving, jade, interactive audiovisual displays and the stories of the revered WWII 28 Maori Battalion (a movie on the battalion runs every 30 minutes from 9.30am). Also here are two art galleries (with air swabbed clean of hydrogen sulphide), and a cool cafe with garden views (although the best view in town can be had from the viewing platform on the roof).

NEED TO KNOW

Click here www.rotoruamuseum.co.nz; Queens Dr; adult/child $18/7; 9am-5pm Apr-Sep, to 8pm Oct-Mar, tours hourly 10am-4pm plus 5pm Dec-Feb

GOVERNMENT GARDENS Gardens

The manicured English-style Government Gardens surrounding the Rotorua Museum are pretty-as-a-picture, with roses aplenty, steaming thermal pools dotted about and civilized amenities such as croquet lawns and bowling greens. Also here is the upmarket Polynesian Spa.

LAKE ROTORUA Lake

Lake Rotorua is the largest of the district’s 16 lakes and is – underneath all that water – a spent volcano. Sitting in the lake is Mokoia Island, which has for centuries been occupied by various subtribes of the area.

Activities

Extreme Sports

AGROVENTURES Extreme Sports

( 0800 949 888, 07-357 4747; www.agroventures.co.nz; Western Rd; 9am-5pm) Agroventures is a hive of action, 9km north of Rotorua on SH5 (shuttles available). Prices following are for single activities but combo deals abound.

Start off with the 43m bungy (adult/child $95/80) and the Swoop (adult/child $49/35), a 130km/h swing that can be enjoyed alone or with friends. If that’s not enough, try Freefall Xtreme (three minutes, per adult/child $49/35), which simulates skydiving by blasting you 5m into the air on a column of wind.

Also here is the Shweeb (adult/child $39/29), a monorail velodrome from which you hang in a clear capsule and pedal yourself along recumbently at speeds of up to 60km/h. Alongside is the Agrojet (adult/child $49/35), allegedly NZ’s fastest jetboat, splashing around a 1km manmade course.

ZORB Extreme Sports

( 0800 227 474, 07-357 5100; www.zorb.com; cnr Western Rd & SH5; rides from $30; 9am-5pm, to 7pm Dec-Mar) Across the road from Agroventures is the Zorb – look for the grassy hillside with large, clear, people-filled spheres rolling down it. Your eyes do not deceive you! There are three courses: 150m straight, 180m zigzag or 250m ‘Drop’. Do your zorb strapped in and dry, or freestyle with water thrown in.

SKYLINE ROTORUA Extreme Sports

( 07-347 0027; www.skyline.co.nz; Fairy Springs Rd; adult/child gondola $25/12.50, luge 3 rides $41/31, sky swing $52/41; 9am-11pm) This gondola cruises up Mt Ngongotaha, about 3km north of town, from where you can take in panoramic lake views or ride a speedy luge back down on three different tracks. For even speedier antics, try the Sky Swing, a screaming swoosh through the air at speeds of up to 160km/h.

Mountain Biking

On the edge of town is the Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest, home to some of the best mountain-bike trails in the country. There are close to 100km of tracks to keep bikers of all skill levels happy for days on end. Pick up a trail map at the forest visitor centre.

MOUNTAIN BIKE ROTORUA Bicycle Rental

( 0800 682 768; www.mtbrotorua.co.nz; Waipa State Mill Rd; mountain bikes per 2hr/day from $30/45, guided half-/full-day rides $120/185; 9am-5pm) This outfit hires out bikes at the Waipa Mill car park entrance to the Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest, the starting point for the bike trails. There’s also a satellite bike depot across the forest at the visitor centre, so you can ride through the trees one-way then catch a shuttle back.

Whitewater Rafting & Sledging

There’s plenty of white-water action around Rotorua with the chance to take on the Grade V Kaituna River, complete with a startling 7m drop at Okere Falls. Most of these trips take a day. Some companies head further out to the Rangitaiki River (Grade III–VI) and Wairoa River (Grade V), raftable only when the dam is opened every second Sunday.

RIVER RATS Rafting, Kayaking

( 0800 333 900; 07-345 6543; www.riverrats.co.nz) Takes on the Wairoa ($119), Kaituna ($99) and Rangitaiki ($129), and runs a scenic trip on the lower Rangitaiki (Grade II) that is good for youngsters (adult/child $129/100). Kayaking options include freedom hire (per half-/full-day hire from $30/40) and guided four-hour Lake Rotoiti trips ($95).

KAITUNA CASCADES Rafting, Kayaking

( 07-345 4199, 0800 524 8862; www.kaitunacascades.co.nz) Does rafting on the Kaituna ($82), Rangitaiki ($118) and Wairoa ($98), plus kayaking options.

WET ‘N’ WILD Rafting

( 0800 462 7238, 07-348 3191; www.wetnwildrafting.co.nz) Runs trips on the Kaituna ($99), Wairoa ($110) and Mokau ($160), as well as easy-going Rangitaiki trips (adult/child $125/90) and longer trips to remote parts of the Motu and Mohaka (two to five days, $595 to $975).

Kayaking

GO WILD ADVENTURES Kayaking

( 07-533 2926; www.adventurekayaking.co.nz; hire per day from $50, trips per 2hr/half day/full day from $80/95/140) Takes trips on Lakes Rotorua, Rotoiti, Tarawera and Okataina (from $80/95/140 for two hours/half day/full day); also offers freedom hire (from $50 per day).

KAITUNA KAYAKS Kayaking

( 07-362 4486; www.kaitunakayaks.com; half-day trip $199, lessons half/full day $199/299) Guided tandem trips and kayaking lessons (cheaper for groups) on the Kaituna.

Thermal Pools & Massage

POLYNESIAN SPA Spa, Massage

( 07-348 1328; www.polynesianspa.co.nz; Government Gardens, off Hinemoa St; adults-only pools $21.50, private pools per half-hour adult/child from $18.50/6.50, family pool adult/child/family $14.50/6.50/36, spa therapies from $85; 8am-11pm, spa therapies 9am-8pm) A bathhouse opened at these Government Gardens springs in 1882, and people have been swearing by the waters ever since. There is mineral bathing (36°C to 42°C) in several picturesque pools at the lake’s edge, marble-lined terraced pools and a larger, main pool. Also here are luxury therapies (massage, mud and beauty treatments) and a cafe.

Horse Trekking

PARADISE VALLEY VENTURES Horse Riding

( 07-348 3300; www.paradisetreks.co.nz; 679 Paradise Valley Rd; 60/90min $65/90) The very safe and professional Paradise Valley Ventures takes treks for novices and experienced riders through a 700-hectare farm north of Rotorua. Pony rides for the kids, too.

Tours

ELITE ADVENTURES Tour

( 07-347 8282; www.eliteadventures.co.nz; tours per half day adult/child from $85/55, full day from $220/130) Small-group tours covering a selection of Rotorua’s major cultural and natural highlights.

KAWARAU JET Jetboating

( 0800 538 7746, 07-343 7600; www.kjetrotorua.co.nz; lakefront; 30min adult/child $74/54) Speed things up by jetboating with Kawarau Jet, which tears around Lake Rotorua.

LAKELAND QUEEN Cruise

( 0800 572 784, 07-348 0265; www.lakelandqueen.com; lakefront) The Lakeland Queen paddlesteamer offers one-hour breakfast (adult/child $45/22.50), and longer cruises (lunch $54/27.50; Saturday-night summer dinner $70/35) on Lake Rotorua.

MOKOIA ISLAND WAI ORA EXPERIENCES Cruise, Cultural Tour

( 07-349 0976; www.mokoiaisland.co.nz; lakefront; tour adult/child $75/38; 9.30am & 2pm daily) This operator takes visitors out to Mokoia Island, and offers a 2½-hour Ultimate Island Experience tour. The tour includes wildlife-spotting and hearing tales of the island, and lets you dip your toes in the legendary hot pool of Hinemoa.

ROTORUA DUCK TOURS Tour

( 07-345 6522; www.rotoruaducktours.co.nz; adult/child/family $68/38/155; tours 11am, 1pm & 3.30pm Oct-Apr, 11am & 2.15pm May-Sep) Ninety-minute trips in an amphibious biofuelled vehicle taking in the major sites around town and heading out onto three lakes (Rotorua, Okareka and Tikitapu). Longer Lake Tarawera trips also available.

VOLCANIC AIR SAFARIS Scenic Flights

( 0800 800 848, 07-348 9984; www.volcanicair.co.nz; lakefront; 6min to 3¼hr trips $70-862) A variety of floatplane and helicopter flights taking in Mt Tarawera and surrounding geothermal sites including Hell’s Gate, the Buried Village and Waimangu Volcanic Valley. A 3¼-hour White Island/Mt Tarawera trip is also available.

Sleeping

REGENT OF ROTORUA Boutique Hotel $$$

Offline map Google map

( 07-348 4079, 0508 734 368; www.regentrotorua.co.nz; 1191 Pukaki St; d/1br/2br from $169/239/359; ) Wow! It’s about time Rotorua showed some slumbering style, and the Regent (a renovated 1960s motel) delivers. ‘The ’60s was a glamorous time to travel,’ say the owners: the decor follows suit, with hip black-and-white tones, funky mirrors, retro wallpaper and colourful splashes. There’s a pool and restaurant too, and the Tutanekai St eateries are an amble away.

Polynesian Spa (Click here   ), overlooking Lake Rotorua;

CHRISTIAN KOBER /GETTY IMAGES ©

TUSCANY VILLAS Motel $$

( 0800 802 050, 07-348 3500; www.tuscanyvillasrotorua.co.nz; 280 Fenton St; d from $145; ) With its Italian-inspired architecture and pointy conifers, this family-owned eye-catcher is the pick of the Fenton St motels. It pitches itself perfectly at both the corporate and leisure traveller, who will appreciate the lavish furnishings, multiple TVs, DVD players and huge, deep spa baths.

JACK & DI’S LAKE VIEW LODGE Lodge $$

Offline map Google map

( 0800 522 526; www.jackanddis.co.nz; 21 Lake Rd; s/d/apt from $99/99/199; ) Lake views and a central but secluded location make this unique lodge a persuasive option. The upstairs penthouse is ideal for couples, while downstairs is better for families or groups (three bedrooms, three bathrooms). A spa pool, lazy lounge areas and full kitchens add to the appeal.

MILLENNIUM HOTEL Hotel $$$

( 07-347 1234; www.millenniumrotorua.co.nz; cnr Eruera & Hinemaru Sts; d from $250; ) The slick Maori-inspired lobby sets the scene for this elegant five-storey motel. Lakefront rooms afford excellent views as does the club lounge, popular with the suits and internationalists swanning about. The poolside hangi (Click here) is fab, as is the in-house restaurant Nikau.

SIX ON UNION Motel $$

( 0800 100 062, 07-347 8062; www.sixonunion.co.nz; 6 Union St; d/f from $105/145; ) Hanging baskets ahoy! This modest place is an affordable bonanza with pool, spa and small kitchenettes in all units. Rooms are functional, and the new owners (from Yorkshire) keep the swimming-pool area in good nick. It’s away from traffic noise, but still an easy walk into town.

Rafting over Okere Falls (Click here   )

KENNEDY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Eating

THIRD PLACE CAFE Cafe $$

( 07-349 4852; www.thirdplacecafe.co.nz; 36 Lake Rd; mains $15-18; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat) A really interesting cafe away from the hubbub, Third Place has leapfrogged into first by our reckoning. All-day breakfast/brunch sidesteps neatly between chicken jambalaya, fish and chips, and an awesome ‘mumble jumble’ of crushed kumara, green tomatoes and spicy chorizo topped with bacon, poached egg and hollandaise. Hangover? What hangover? Slide into a red-leather couch or score a window seat overlooking Ohinemutu.

LIME CAFFETERIA Cafe $$

( 07-350 2033; cnr Fenton & Whakaue Sts; mains $13-24; 7.30am-4.30pm; ) Occupying a quiet corner near the lake, this refreshing cafe is especially good for alfresco breakfasts and dishes with a welcome twist: try the chicken-and-chorizo salad or prawn-and-salmon risotto in lime sauce. It also offers classy counter snacks, excellent coffee and outdoor tables. ‘This is the best lunch I’ve had in ages’, says one happy punter.

INDIAN STAR Indian $$

( 07-343 6222; www.indianstar.co.nz; 1118 Tutanekai St; mains $14-22; lunch & dinner; ) This is one of several Indian eateries around town, elevating itself above the competition with immaculate service and marvellous renditions of subcontinental classics. Sizeable portions and good vegetarian selections (try the chickpea masala).

SABROSO Latin American $$

( 07-349 0591; www.sabroso.co.nz; 1184 Haupapa St; mains $18-45; 5-10pm Thu-Tue) What a surprise! This modest Latin American cantina – adorned with sombreros, guitars, hessian tablecloths and salt-and-pepper shakers made from Corona bottles – serves adventurous south-of-the-border fare to spice up bland Kiwi palates. The black-bean chilli is a knock-out (as are the margaritas).

BISTRO 1284 Modern Nz $$$

( 07-346 1284; www.bistro1284.co.nz; 1284 Eruera St; mains $34-39; 6pm-late) Definitely one of RotoVegas’ fine-dining hot spots, this intimate place (all chocolate and mushroom colours) serves stylish NZ cuisine with an Asian influence. It’s an excellent place to sample great local ingredients (the lamb is always good); be sure to leave room for some delectable desserts.

Drinking

BREW Bar, Craft Beer

( 07-346 0976; www.brewpub.co.nz; 1103 Tutanekai St; 11am-late) Run by the lads from Croucher Brewing Co, Rotorua’s best microbrewers, Brew sits in a sunny spot on Rotorua’s main eat-street. Sip down a pint of fruity Pale Ale, aromatic Drunken Hop Bitter or malty Pilsener and wonder how you’ll manage a sleep-in tomorrow morning. Good coffee, too.

Cooking corn in hot springs, Whakarewarewa Thermal Village (Click here   )

FRANS LEMMENS / ALAMY ©

PIG & WHISTLE Pub, Brewery

( 07-347 3025; www.pigandwhistle.co.nz; cnr Haupapa & Tutanekai St; 11.30am-late) Inside a former police station, this busy microbrewery-pub serves up Swine lager, big-screen TVs, a beer garden and live music Thursday to Saturday, plus simple grub (mains $15 to $30). The menu runs the gamut from crispy pork-belly salad to burgers and vegetarian nachos.

Shopping

ROTORUA NIGHT MARKET Market

Offline map Google map

( 07-350 0209; www.rotoruanightmarket.co.nz; Tutanekai St; 4.30pm-late Thu) Tutanekai St is closed off on Thursday nights to allow the Rotorua Night Market to spread its wings. Expect local arts and crafts, souvenirs, cheesy buskers, coffee, wine and plenty of deli-style food stalls for dinner.

JOHN SONES / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Maori Concerts & Hangi

Maori culture is a big-ticket item in Rotorua and, although it is commercialised, it’s a great opportunity to learn about the indigenous culture of NZ. The two big activities are concerts and hangi feasts, often packaged together in an evening’s entertainment featuring the famous hongi, haka, and poi dances.

An established favourite, Tamaki Maori Village does an excellent twilight tour to a marae (meeting house) and Maori village 15km south of Rotorua. The experience is hands-on, taking you on an interactive journey through Maori history, arts and customs from pre-European times to the present day. The concert is followed by an impressive hangi.

The family-run Mitai Maori Village offers a three-hour evening event with a concert, hangi and glowworm bushwalk. This can be combined with a tour of Rainbow Springs Kiwi Wildlife Park next door, with coloured nightlights and a walk through the Kiwi enclosure (four hours total, adult/child under nine/child under 15 $125/35/65). Pick-ups available.

Aside from these, Te Puia and Whakarewarewa Thermal Village also put on shows. Many of the big hotels, including Kingsgate Hotel Rotorua , Millennium Hotel Rotorua and Novotel Rotorua , also offer Maori concerts and hangi, making up for what they lack in ambience with convenience.

NEED TO KNOW

Tamaki Maori Village ( 07-349 2999; www.maoriculture.co.nz; booking office 1220 Hinemaru St; adult/child/family $105/60/250; tours depart 5pm, 6pm & 7.30pm summer, 6.30pm winter); Mitai Maori Village ( 07-343 9132; www.mitai.co.nz; 196 Fairy Springs Rd; adult/child 5-9yr/child 10-15yr/family $107/21/53/279; 6.30pm); Kingsgate Hotel Rotorua ( 07-348 0199; www.millenniumhotels.co.nz; 328 Fenton St; concert adult/child $30/15, incl hangi $45/22.50); Millennium Hotel Rotorua ( 07-347 1234; www.millenniumrotorua.co.nz; cnr Eruera & Hinemaru Sts; concert adult/child $30/15, incl hangi $70/35); Novotel Rotorua ( 07-346 3888; www.novotelrotorua.co.nz; 11 Tutanekai St; concerts adult/child $39/18, incl hangi $59/28)

Information

Lakes Prime Care ( 07-348 1000; 1165 Tutanekai St; 8am-10pm) Urgent medical care.

Rotorua Hospital ( 07-348 1199; www.lakesdhb.govt.nz; Arawa St; 24hr) Round-the-clock medical care.

Tourism Rotorua & i-SITE ( 0800 768 678; 07-348 5179; www.rotoruanz.com; 1167 Fenton St; 8am-6pm Sep-May, to 5.30pm Jun-Aug) The hub for travel information and bookings, including Department of Conservation (DOC) walks. Also has an exchange bureau, cafe, showers and lockers.

Getting There & Away

Air

Air New Zealand ( 07-343 1100; www.airnewzealand.co.nz; 1267 Tutanekai St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has direct flights between Rotorua and Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, plus Sydney (every Tuesday and Saturday).

Qantas also links Auckland with Rotorua.

Bus

All the major bus companies stop outside i-SITE, from where you can arrange bookings.

InterCity ( 09-583 5780; www.intercity.co.nz) destinations include Auckland ($50, 3½ hours, seven daily), Gisborne ($61, 4½ hours, one daily), Hamilton ($32, 1½ hours, five daily), Napier ($53, three hours, three daily), Taupo ($32, one hour, four daily), Tauranga ($30, 1½ hours, three daily), Wellington ($65, eight hours, five daily) and Whakatane ($34, 1½ hours, one daily).

Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) services run to the same destinations: Auckland ($19, four hours, six daily), Gisborne ($27, 4¾ hours, one daily), Hamilton ($16, 1½ hours, five daily), Napier ($29, three hours, three daily), Taupo ($15, one hour, two daily), Tauranga ($12, 1½ hours, five daily), Wellington ($36, eight hours, two daily) and Whakatane ($18, 1½ hours, one daily).

Twin City Express ( 0800 422 928; www.baybus.co.nz) buses run twice daily Monday to Friday between Rotorua and Tauranga/Mt Maunganui via Te Puke ($11.60, 1½ hours).

Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Rotorua Airport ( 07-345 8800; www.rotorua-airport.co.nz; SH30) is 10km northeast of town. Super Shuttle ( 09-522 5100, 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz) offers a door-to-door airport service for $22 for the first person then $6 per additional passenger. A taxi to/from the city centre costs about $25.

Cityride runs a daily airport service ($2.30).

Taxi

Fast Taxis ( 07-348 2444)

Rotorua Taxis ( 07-348 1111)

If You Like...

Wildlife Parks

If you like Rainbow Springs Kiwi Wildlife Park, we think you’ll like these other wildlife encounters.

1 WINGSPAN BIRDS OF PREY TRUST

( 07-357 4469; www.wingspan.co.nz; 1164 Paradise Valley Rd, Rotorua; adult/child $25/8; 9am-3pm) This organisation is dedicated to conserving three threatened NZ birds: the falcon, hawk and owl. Go in time to see the 2pm flying display.

2 PARADISE VALLEY SPRINGS

( 07-348 9667; 467 Paradise Valley Rd, Rotorua; www.paradisevalleysprings.co.nz; adult/child $30/15; 8am-5pm) A 6-hectare park with trout, big slippery eels, deer, alpaca, possums and lions.

3 ALTURA GARDENS & WILDLIFE PARK

( 07-878 5278; www.alturapark.co.nz; 477 Fullerton Rd, Waitomo Caves; adult/child $12/5, horse treks 60/90min $65/80; 9.30am-5pm) At this 2-hectare park you can chat with a cockatoo, outstare a morepork or pat a blue-tongue lizard. Horse treks available.

Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

AROUND ROTORUA

Around Rotorua

Sights

1 Buried Village C4

2 Hells Gate & Wai Ora Spa C2

3  Kingsgate Hotel Rotorua B3

Mitai Maori Village (see 12)

Pohutu Cultural Theatre (see 3)

4 Rainbow Springs Kiwi Wildlife Park A3

5 Redwoods Gift Shop & Visitor Centre B3

6  Te Puia B3

7 Waimangu Volcanic Valley C5

8 Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland C6

9 Whakarewarewa Thermal Village B3

Activities, Courses & Tours

10  Agroventures A2

Helipro (see 6)

11 Mountain Bike Rotorua B3

12  Skyline Rotorua A3

13 Waikite Valley Thermal Pools B5

14  Zorb A2

Sleeping

15  Tuscany Villas B3

Rainbow Springs Kiwi Wildlife Park

About 3km north of central Rotorua, Rainbow Springs ( 0800 724 626; www.rainbowsprings.co.nz; Fairy Springs Rd; 24hr pass adult/child/family $35/22.50/103; 8am-late) is a family-friendly winner. The natural springs here are home to wild trout and eels, which you can peer at through an underwater viewer. There are interpretive walkways, a new ‘Big Splash’ water ride, and plenty of animals, including tuatara, introduced species (wallabies, rainbow lorikeets) and native birds (kea, kaka and pukeko).

A highlight is the Kiwi Encounter, offering a rare peek into the lives of these endangered birds: excellent 30-minute tours have you tiptoeing through incubator and hatchery areas. Also available are joint four-hour evening tours (adult/child $125/65) with neighbouring Mitai Maori Village (Click here).

Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest

This magical forest park ( 07-350 0110; www.redwoods.co.nz; Long Mile Rd; gates 5.30am-8.30pm, visitor centre 8.30am-5.30pm) is 3km southeast of town on the Tarawera Rd. It was originally home to more than 170 tree species (a few less now) planted from 1899, to see which could be grown successfully for timber. Radiata pine proved a hit (as evident throughout New Zealand), but it’s the mighty Californian redwoods that give the park its grandeur today.

Clearly signposted walking tracks range from a half-hour wander through the Redwood Grove to an enjoyable whole-day route to the Blue and Green Lakes. Most walks start from the visitor centre where you can get maps and view displays about the forest. Aside from walking, the park is great for picnics, and is acclaimed for its accessible mountain biking. Mountain Bike Rotorua (Click here) offers bike hire, across the park off Waipa State Mill Rd.

Te Wairoa

Fifteen kilometres from Rotorua on Tarawera Rd, beyond the pretty Blue and Green Lakes, is the buried village of Te Wairoa ( 07-362 8287; www.buriedvillage.co.nz; 1180 Tarawera Rd; adult/child/family $31/8/62; 9am-5pm Nov-Mar, to 4.30pm Apr-Oct), interred by the eruption of Mt Tarawera in 1886. Te Wairoa was the staging post for travellers coming to see the Pink and White Terraces. Today a museum houses objects dug from the ruins, and guides in period costume escort groups through the excavated sites. There’s also a walk to the 30m Te Wairoa Falls (not suitable for kids or oldies), and a teahouse if you’re feeling more sedate.

BAY OF PLENTY

The Bay of Plenty stretches along the pohutukawa-studded coast from Waihi Beach to Opotiki and inland as far as the Kaimai Range. This is where New Zealanders have come on holiday for generations, lapping up salt-licked activities and lashings of sunshine.

Tauranga

Tauranga (pronounced ‘tao-wronger’) has been booming since the 1990s and remains one of NZ’s fastest-growing cities. It’s also NZ’s busiest port – with petrol refineries and mountains of coal and lumber – but it’s beach-seeking holidaymakers who have seen the old workhorse reborn as a show pony.

Sights & Activities

TAURANGA ART GALLERY Gallery

( 07-578 7933; www.artgallery.org.nz; cnr Wharf & Willow Sts; 10am-4.30pm) The Tauranga Art Gallery presents historic and contemporary art, and houses a permanent collection along with frequently changing local and visiting exhibitions. Touring the ground and mezzanine galleries, with a stop to poke your nose into the video cube, will take an hour or so.

ELMS MISSION HOUSE Historic Building

(www.theelms.org.nz; 15 Mission St; house adult/child $5/50c, gardens free; house 2-4pm Wed, Sat & Sun, gardens 9am-5pm daily) Built in 1847, Elms Mission House is the oldest building in the Bay of Plenty. Furnished in period style, it sits among other well-preserved mission buildings in leafy gardens.

BUTLER’S SWIM WITH DOLPHINS Wildlife Tour

( 0508 288 537, 07-578 3197; www.swimwithdolphins.co.nz; full-day trips adult/child $135/110; departs Tauranga 9am, Mt Maunganui 9.30am) Even without dolphins (and you’re guaranteed of seeing them), these trips are always entertaining, particularly with Cap’n Butler, a real old salt who protested against nuclear testing at Mururoa Atoll.

WAIMARINO ADVENTURE PARK Kayaking, Water Sports

( 07-576 4233, 0800 456 996; www.waimarino.com; 36 Taniwha Pl; kayak tours from $65, kayak hire per hr/day $26/55, park day-pass adult/child $40/32; 10am-6pm Aug-Apr, reduced hours May-Jul) On the banks of the Wairoa River 8km west of town, Waimarino offers freedom kayak hire for leisurely paddles along 12km of flat water, and runs self-guided tours further up the river as well as sea kayaking trips. Waimarino also has an adventure park with all kinds of watery distractions: a kayak slide, diving board, rope course, water-walking zorbs, warm pools, and a terrifying human catapult called ‘The Blob’ – intense!

TAURANGA TANDEM SKYDIVING Skydiving

( 07-576 7990, 0274 968 408; www.tandemskydive.co.nz; 2 Kittyhawk Way; jumps 8000/10,000/12,000ft $269/299/349) Tauranga Tandem Skydiving offers jumps from three different heights, with views of White Island, Mount Ruapehu and the East Cape on the way down.

Sleeping

ROSELANDS MOTEL Motel $$

( 0800 363 093, 07-578 2294; www.roselands.co.nz; 21 Brown St; d/ste from $110/135; ) Tarted up with splashes of orange paint and new linen, this sweet, old-style motel is in a quiet but central location. Expect roomy units (all with kitchens), friendly first-name-basis hosts and new TVs. Nice one.

HARBOUR CITY MOTOR INN Motel $$

( 0800 253 525, 07-571 1435; www.taurangaharbourcity.co.nz; 50 Wharf St; d from $150; ) With a winning location right in the middle of town (and with plenty of parking), this newish, lemon-yellow motor inn has all the mod cons. There are spa baths in each room, and friendly staff who can offer sound advice on your itinerary.

HOTEL ON DEVONPORT Hotel $$

( 07-578 2668; www.hotelondevonport.net.nz; 72 Devonport Rd; d/ste $165/195; ) City-centre Devonport is top of the town, with bay-view rooms, noise-reducing glass, slick interiors and sassy staff, all of which appeal to business travellers and upmarket weekenders. No in-room wi-fi is a surprising downer.

Eating & Drinking

NAKED GRAPE Modern Nz, Wine Bar $$

( 07-579 5555; www.nakedgrape.co.nz; 97 The Strand; breakfast & lunch $9-19, dinner mains $21-32; breakfast & lunch daily, dinner Mon-Sat) With cheery staff, wine-coloured rugs and lilting jazz, this hip Strand wine bar draws the daytime crowds with pastas, pizzas, salads, good coffee and beaut breakfasts. At night it’s moodier, with mains like spice-rubbed salmon with citrus salsa and eggplant parmesan with toasted pinenuts.

MEDITERRANEO CAFÉ Cafe, Mediterranean $$

(The Med; 07-577 0487; www.mediterraneocafe.co.nz; 62 Devonport Rd; mains $12-19; 7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-4pm Sat, 8am-4pm Sun; ) A hot spot reeling with regulars enjoying terrific coffee and scrumptious all-day breakfasts. Order from the blackboard or from the cabinet crammed with sandwiches, salads, flans and cakes. Lunchtime crowds can be frantic (but the chicken salad is worth it). Plenty of gluten-free and vegetarian options.

SOMERSET COTTAGE Modern Nz $$$

( 07-576 6889; www.somersetcottage.co.nz; 30 Bethlehem Rd; mains $38-40; lunch Wed-Fri, dinner Tue-Sun) The most awarded restaurant in the bay, Somerset Cottage is a simple-but-elegant venue for that special treat. The food is highly seasonal, made from the best NZ ingredients, impressively executed without being too fussy. Standout dishes include blue cheese soufflé, duck with coconut kumara and the famous liquorice ice cream.

Information

Tauranga i-SITE ( 07-578 8103; www.bayofplentynz.com; 95 Willow St; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun, reduced winter hours; ) Local tourist information, bookings, InterCity bus tickets and DOC maps.

Getting There & Away

Air

Air New Zealand ( 07-577 7300; www.airnewzealand.co.nz; cnr Devonport Rd & Elizabeth St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has daily direct flights to Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, with connections to other centres.

Bus

Twin City Express ( 0800 422 928; www.baybus.co.nz) buses run twice daily Monday to Friday between Tauranga/Mt Maunganui and Rotorua via Te Puke ($11.60, 1½ hours).

InterCity ( 09-583 5780; www.intercity.co.nz) tickets and timetables are available at the i-SITE. Destinations include Auckland ($46, four hours, seven daily), Hamilton ($33, two hours, two daily), Rotorua ($30, 1½ hours, two daily), Taupo ($50, three hours, three daily) and Wellington ($59, nine hours, four daily).

Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) offers substantial fare savings when you book in advance. Destinations include Auckland ($15, 4¼ hours, three daily), Hamilton ($20, two hours, three daily), Napier ($50, 4½ hours, two daily), Rotorua ($9, 1½ hours, three to five daily), Taupo ($25, 2½ hours, two daily), Wellington ($27, nine hours, one daily) and Whakatane ($19, 6¼ hours, one daily).

Shuttle Buses

A couple of companies can pick you up at Auckland or Rotorua airports and bus you to Tauranga (though you’ll pay upwards of $100 for the privilege):

Apollo Connect Shuttles ( 07-218 0791; www.taurangashuttles.co.nz)

Luxury Airport Shuttles ( 07-547 4444, 0800 454 678; www.luxuryairportshuttles.co.nz)

The Wreck of the Rena

On 5 October 2011, the 47,000 tonne cargo ship MV Rena, loaded with 1368 containers and 1900 tonnes of fuel oil, ran aground on Astrolabe Reef 22km off the coast of Mt Maunganui. Pitched acutely on the reef with a rupturing hull, the Rena stared spilling oil into the sea and shedding containers from its deck.

Salvors eventually managed to remove most of the oil, but on 7 January 2012 the Rena finally broke in two, spilling remnant oil and dozens more containers into the sea. With refloating the ship no longer an option, will the two halves be dragged off the rocks and scuttled? A future dive site for the Bay of Plenty? Whatever happens, the grounding has been an environmental and economic disaster, with beaches soiled, fisheries ravaged and countless local businesses suffering. Time will tell how far reparations – both environmental and fiscal – will go towards improving the situation.

Mt Maunganui

Named after the hulking 232m hill that punctuates the sandy peninsula occupied by the township, up-tempo Mt Maunganui is often just called ‘the Mount’, or Mauao, which translates as ‘caught by the light of day’. Sun-seekers flock to the Mount in summer, supplied by an increasing number of 10-storey apartment towers studding the spit.

Sights & Activities

The Mount lays claim to being NZ’s premier surfing city (they teach surfing at high school!). You can carve up the waves at Mount Beach, which has lovely beach breaks and a 100m artificial surf reef not far offshore. Learn-to-surf operators include Hibiscus ( 07-575 3792, 027 279 9687; www.surfschool.co.nz; 2hr/2-day lesson $80/150) and Mount Surf Shop ( 07-575 9133; www.mountsurfshop.co.nz; 96 Maunganui Rd; rental per day wet suit/body board/surf board $15/20/30, 2hr lesson $80).

MAUAO Mountain, Lookout

Mauao (Mt Maunganui) itself can be explored via walking trails that wind around it and leading up to the summit. The summit walk takes about 40 minutes and gets steep near the top. You can also climb around the rocks on Moturiki Island, which adjoins the peninsula. The island and the base of Mauao also make up the Mauao base track (3½km, 45 minutes), wandering through magical groves of pohutukawa trees that bloom between November and January. Pick up a map at the i-SITE.

MOUNT MAUNGANUI HOT SALTWATER POOLS Swimming

Mt Maunganui

RICHARD CUMMINS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

( 08 575 0868; www.tcal.co.nz; 9 Adams Ave; adult/child/family $11/8/30; 6am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-10pm Sun) If you’ve worked up a sweat walking up and down Mauao, take a long relaxing soak at these hot water pools at the foot of the hill.

Sleeping

MISSION BELLE MOTEL Motel $$

( 0800 202 434, 07-575 2578; www.missionbellemotel.co.nz; cnr Victoria Rd & Pacific Ave; d/f from $125/185; ) With a distinctly Tex-Mex exterior (like something out of an old Clint Eastwood movie), this family-run motel goes all modern inside, with especially good two-storey family rooms with large bathtubs, plus sheltered barbecue and courtyard areas.

BELLE MER Hotel, Apartments $$$

( 0800 100 235, 07-575 0011; www.bellemer.co.nz; 53 Marine Pde; apt $190-450; ) A classy beachside complex of one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, some with sea-view balconies and others opening onto private courtyards (though you’ll more likely head for the resort-style pool terrace). Rooms are tastefully decorated in warm tones with soft edges, and have everything you need for longer stays, with proper working kitchens and laundries.

Eating & Drinking

SLOWFISH Cafe $

( 07-574 2949; www.slowfish.co.nz; shop 5, Twin Towers, Marine Pde; meals $7-20; 6.30am-4.30pm; ) There’s no slacking-off in the kitchen of this award-winning, eco-aware cafe, which promotes the art of savouring fine, locally sourced food. It’s a hit with the crowds: you’ll have to crowbar yourself in the door or pounce on any available alfresco seat, but it’s worth it for its free-range eggs and ham, Greek salads and divine counter selection, all made on-site.

MAJOR TOM’S Bar, Live Music

( 07-574 5880; www.majortomsbar.com; 297 Maunganui Rd; 4pm-late Tue-Sat; ) A funky little bar set back from the main drag in what looks like Major Tom’s spaceship. Inside it’s all kooky antiques, vintage couches, dangling inverted desk lamps and prints of Elvis, the Mona Lisa and (of course) David Bowie. Fabulous streetside terrace, cool tunes, free wi-fi and occasional live acts. Everybody sing: ‘Planet Earth is blue, and there’s nothing I can do...’

Information

Mt Maunganui i-SITE ( 07-575 5099; www.bayofplentynz.com; Salisbury Ave; 9am-5pm) The friendly Mt Maunganui i-SITE can assist with information and bookings (transport, accommodation and activities).

Getting There & Away

Bus

InterCity ( 09-583 5780, www.intercity.co.nz) and Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) services visiting Tauranga also stop at Mt Maunganui, with fares similar to those to/from Tauranga. All buses depart from the i-SITE.

Whakatane

A true pohutukawa paradise, Whakatane (pronounced Fokka- tar -nay) sits on a natural harbour at the mouth of the river of the same name. It’s the hub of the Rangitaiki agricultural district, but there’s much more to Whakatane than farming – blissful beaches, a sunny main-street vibe and volcanic Whakaari (White Island) for starters.

Sights & Activities

TE MANUKA TUTAHI MARAE Marae

( 0800 464 284, 07- 307 0760; www.mataatua.com; Muriwai Dr) The centrepiece of this brand-new Ngati Awa marae isn’t new: Mataatua Wharenui (The House That Came Home) is a fantastically carved 1875 meeting house. In 1879 it was dismantled and shipped to Sydney, before spending 71 years in the Otago Museum from 1925. It was returned to the Ngati Awa in 1996. Still a work-in-progress when we visited, a cultural experience for visitors is planned: until its completion you can enter the marae and check out Mataatua Wharenui from the outside (behave respectfully).

WHAKATANE MUSEUM & GALLERY Museum, Gallery

( 07-306 0505; www.whakatanemuseum.org.nz; 51-55 Boon St; 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun) This impressive regional museum has artfully presented displays on early Maori and European settlerment in the area: taonga (treasures) of local Maori trace their lineage back to the Mataatua waka. The art gallery presents a varied program of NZ and international exhibitions. Rumoured to be relocating: call the number if it’s not where it’s supposed to be.

DOLPHIN & WHALE NATURE RUSH Wildlife Tour

( 07-308 9588, 0800 733 529; www.dolphinandwhale.co.nz; 15 The Strand; trips adult/child $80/50; 10am daily Jan-Mar) Run by White Island Tours, Dolphin & Whale Nature Rush offers a two-hour trip out to Motuhora (Whale Island), with plenty of critter-spotting in the sea and sky.

Dolphin spotting (Click here   ), near Whakatane

FRANS LEMMENS / GETTY IMAGES ©

Sleeping

CAPTAIN’S CABIN Apartment $$

( 07-308 5719; www.captainscabin.co.nz; 23 Muriwai Dr; r $125, 2 nights or more per night $115) In a serene part of town with sparkling harbour views, this homely self-contained unit is the perfect spot if you’re hanging round for a few days. A cosy living area cleverly combines bedroom, lounge, kitchen and dining, with a second smaller room and bijou bathroom – all sweetly decorated along nautical lines. Sleeps three (extra person $25).

WHITE ISLAND RENDEZVOUS Hotel, B&B $$

( 0800 242 299, 07-308 9588; www.whiteisland.co.nz; The Strand; d from $140, 2br apt per 4 people $260, B&B $190; ) An immaculate 26-room complex run by the on-the-ball White Island Tour people. Lots of balcony and deck space for inhaling the sea air, while interiors are decked out with timber floors for a nautical vibe. Deluxe rooms come with spas; disabled-access facilities available. The B&B next door includes cooked breakfast.

Eating

WHARF SHED International $$

( 0800 863 463, 07-308 5698; www.wharfshed.com; The Wharf, The Strand; mains $18-32; lunch & dinner) An award winner for beef and lamb but famous for fish (this is Whakatane, after all), which includes locally bagged crayfish, corpulent mussels and fresh Pacific oysters. Right on the waterside with alfresco dining on balmy evenings.

ROQUETTE Modern Nz $$

( 07-307 0722; www.roquette-restaurant.co.nz; 23 Quay St; mains $20-35; 10am-late Mon-Sat) A modern waterside restaurant on the ground floor of one of the town’s big new apartment buildings, sunny Roquette serves up refreshing Mediterranean-influenced fare with lots of summery salads, risotto and fish dishes. Laid-back tunes, lots of glass and mosaics, good coffee and sexy staff to boot. Try the haloumi salad niçoise.

Whakaari (White Island)

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Information

Whakatane i-SITE ( 0800 924 528, 07-306 2030; www.whakatane.com; cnr Quay St & Kakahoroa Dr; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun; ) Free internet access (including 24-hour wi-fi on the terrace outside the building), tour bookings, accommodation and general enquiries for DOC.

Getting There & Around

Air

Air New Zealand ( 07-308 8397, 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.com) has daily flights linking Whakatane to Auckland, with connections to other centres.

Bus

InterCity buses stop outside the i-SITE and connect Whakatane with Rotorua ($34, 1½ hours, one daily), Tauranga ($27, three hours, one daily) and Gisborne ($45, three hours, one daily), with onward connections. Tauranga services run via Rotorua; Gisborne buses travel via Opotiki.

Naked Bus services run to Auckland ($33, 5½ hours, one daily), Gisborne ($20, 3¼ hours, one daily), Hamilton ($20, 1½ hours, one daily), Rotorua ($15, 1½ hours, one daily), Tauranga ($18, 5½ hours, one daily) and Wellington ($70, 10½ hours, one daily). Book in advance for big savings.

Detour:

Whakaari (White Island)

New Zealand’s most active volcano (it last erupted in 2000) lies 49km off the Whakatane coast. The island is dramatic, with hot water hissing and steaming from vents over most of the crater floor. Temperatures of 600°C to 800°C have been recorded.

Fixed-wing air operators run flyover tours only, while boat and helicopter tours will usually include a walking tour around the island including a visit to the ruins of the sulphur-mining factory – an interesting story in itself.

The only official boat trip to Whakaari (on board the good ship Pee Jay) is offered by White Island Tours ( 0800 733 529, 07-308 9588; www.whiteisland.co.nz; 15 The Strand; 6hr tours adult/child $185/120, per person 20 Dec-20 Jan $185; departures btwn 7-9.15am, plus 12.30pm Dec-Feb), with dolphin-spotting en route and a 90-minute tour of the island.

Vulcan Helicopters ( 0800 804 354, 07-308 4188; www.vulcanheli.co.nz; flights per person from $550) can take you on a two-hour scenic flight to Whakaari that includes a one-hour guided walk on the volcano.

For fixed-wing scenic flights over Whakaari, with lots of photo opportunities, try White Island Flights ( 0800 944 834; www.whiteislandflights.co.nz; flights per person $220).

WAIKATO

Hamilton

Landlocked cities in an island nation are never going to have the glamorous appeal of their coastal cousins. However, something strange has happened in Hamilton recently. The city’s main street has sprouted a sophisticated and vibrant stretch of bars and eateries around Hood and Victoria Sts that – on the weekend at least – leave Auckland’s Viaduct Harbour for dead in the boozy fun stakes.

Hamilton

Top Sights

Waikato Museum C3

Sights

1  Riff Raff C3

Activities, Courses & Tours

2  Cruise Waikato D3

Sleeping

3  Anglesea Motel A1

4  City Centre B&B D4

Eating

5  Chim-Choo-Ree C3

6  River Kitchen C3

7  Rocket Coffee B2

Drinking

8  House on Hood C3

9  Limestone C3

Sights

WAIKATO MUSEUM Museum

( 07-838 6606; www.waikatomuseum.co.nz; 1 Grantham St; free-$6.50; 10am-4.30pm) The excellent Waikato Museum has five main areas: an art gallery; interactive science galleries; Tainui galleries housing Maori treasures, including the magnificently carved waka taua (war canoe), Te Winika; a Hamilton history exhibition entitled ‘Never a Dull Moment’; and a Waikato River exhibition.

HAMILTON GARDENS Gardens

( 07-838 6782; www.hamiltongardens.co.nz; Cobham Dr; enclosed sector 7am-6pm, info centre 9am-5pm) More than 50 hectares southest of the centre, Hamilton Gardens incorporates a large park, cafe, restaurant and extravagant themed enclosed gardens.

RIFF RAFF Monument

(www.riffraffstatue.org; Victoria St; ) One of Hamilton’s more unusual public artworks is a life-size statue of Rocky Horror Picture Show writer Richard O’Brien aka Riff Raff, the time-warping alien from the planet Transsexual. It looks over a small park on the site of the former Embassy Theatre where O’Brien worked as a hairdresser, though it’s hard to imagine 1960s Hamilton inspired the tale of bisexual alien decadence.

Activities

CITY BRIDGES RIVER TOUR Kayaking

( 07-847 5565; www.canoeandkayak.co.nz; 2hr trip adult/child $60/35) An interesting way to check out the Waikato River is on a City Bridges River Tour, a guided kayak tour through the city. No experience necessary; group of three people minimum.

CRUISE WAIKATO Boat Tour

( 0508 426 458; www.cruise-waikato.co.nz; Memorial Park Jetty, Memorial Dr; cruises from adult/child $25/10) Runs a range of river cruises, focussed variously on sightseeing, history or your belly (coffee and muffins, hangis or picnics).

KIWI BALLOON COMPANY Ballooning

( 021 912 679, 07-843 8538; www.kiwiballooncompany.co.nz; flights per person $320) A hot-air ballon flight is a lovely (and surprisingly un-scary) option for gazing down on the lush Waikato countryside. The whole experience takes about four hours and includes a champagne breakfast and an hour’s flying time.

Sleeping

ANGLESEA MOTEL Motel $$

( 0800 426 453, 07-834 0010; www.angleseamotel.co.nz; 36 Liverpool St; d/2-/3-br units from $138/265/310; ) Getting great feedback from travellers and a far preferable option to anything on Ulster St’s ‘motel row’, the Anglesea has plenty of space, friendly managers, free wi-fi, pool and squash and tennis courts, and not un-stylish decor.

CITY CENTRE B&B B&B $$

( 07-838 1671; www.citycentrebnb.co.nz; 3 Anglesea St; s & d $90-150, extra person $30; ) At the quiet riverside end of a central city street (five-minutes’ walk to the Victoria/Hood St action), this sparkling self-contained apartment opens on to a swimming pool. There’s also a bedroom available in a wing of the main house. Self-catering breakfast provided.

Eating

RIVER KITCHEN Cafe $

( 07-839 2906; www.theriverkitchen.co.nz; 237 Victoria St; mains $7-16; 7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun; ) Hip River Kitchen does things with simple style: cakes, gourmet breakfasts and fresh seasonal lunches (angle for the salmon hash), and a barista who knows his beans. It’s the kind of place you visit for breakfast, come back to for lunch, then consider for breakfast the next day.

CHIM-CHOO-REE Modern Nz $$$

( 07-839 4329; www.chimchooree.co.nz; 244 Victoria St; 4.30pm-late Tue-Sat) Hip little Chim-Choo-Ree, with its clackety bentwood chairs, concrete floor and kitsch art, is a casual fine-dining option that’s been wowing the critics. Launch into the five-course tasting menu ($125/85 with/without wine), or mains like manuka-smoked eel and Canadian scallops with apple-and-radish salad.

ROCKET COFFEE Cafe $

( 07-839 6422; www.rocketcoffee.co.nz; 302 Barton St; coffees from $4; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Duck down Barton St for what some locals say is the coolest thing about Hamilton (other than perhaps the Riff Raff statue). Rocket Coffee is a warehouse-like bean barn, roasting on-site and enticing caffeine fiends to its communal table strewn with newspapers.

Hamilton Gardens (p 126);

DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©

Drinking

HOUSE ON HOOD Bar, Craft Beer

( 07-839 2727; www.houseonhood.co.nz; 27 Hood St) A crafty place for a craft beer or four, House on Hood is a boozy 1915 barn with lots of drops to slake your thirst. Beer specials, tasting sessions and meal deals abound, plus Saturday night bands and Sunday afternoon DJs. Beer nirvana.

LIMESTONE Bar

( 07-981 1363; 15 Hood St; 8pm-late Wed, 7pm-late Thu & Sat, 4pm-late Fri) Inside Hamilton’s oldest stone buliding – a former haberdashery – moody Limestone offers respite from Hood St’s otherwise raucous boozy nocturnal parade. An excellent range of bottled beers, a dazzling selection of spirits, and cigars to puff street-side.

Raglan

MICAH WRIGHT /LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Information

Hamilton i-SITE ( 07-958 5960; www.visithamilton.co.nz; 5 Garden Pl; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-3.30pm Sat & Sun; ) Accommodation, activities and transport bookings, plus free wi-fi right across Garden Pl.

Getting There & Away

Air

Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) Regular direct flights from Hamilton to Auckland, Christchurch, Palmerston North and Wellington.

Bus

All buses arrive and depart from the Hamilton Transport Centre ( 07-834 3457; www.hamilton.co.nz; cnr Anglesea & Bryce Sts).

InterCity ( 09-583 5780; www.intercity.co.nz) services numerous destinations: Auckland ($30, two hours, 11 daily), Cambridge ($23, 25 minutes, nine daily), Rotorua ($35, 1½ hours, five daily), and Wellington ($55, five hours, three daily).

Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) services run to the following destinations (among many others): Auckland ($15, two hours, five daily), Cambridge ($20, 30 minutes, five to seven daily), Rotorua ($15, 1½ hours, four to five daily), and Wellington ($40, 9½ hours, one to two daily).

Train

Hamilton is on the Overlander ( 0800 872 467; www.tranzscenic.co.nz; daily Oct-Apr, Fri-Sun May-Sep) route between Auckland ($68, 2½ hours) and Wellington ($129, 9½ hours) via Otorohanga ($68, 45 minutes).

Getting Around

To & From Airport

Hamilton International Airport (HIA; 07-848 9027; www.hamiltonairport.co.nz; Airport Rd) is 12km south of the city. The Super Shuttle ( 07-843 7778, 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz; 1-way $23) offers a door-to-door service into the city. A taxi costs around $40.

Bus

Hamilton’s Busit! ( 0800 4287 5463; www.busit.co.nz) network services the city-centre and suburbs daily from around 7am to 7.30pm (later on Friday). Busit! also runs a free bus 51 CBD shuttle looping around Victoria, Liverpool, Anglesea and Bridge Sts every 10 minutes (7am to 6pm weekdays, 9am to 1pm Saturday).

Raglan

Laid-back Raglan may well be NZ’s perfect surfing town. It’s small enough to have escaped mass development, but it’s big enough to exhibit signs of life (good eateries and a bar that attracts big-name bands in summer).

The nearby surf spots – Indicators, Whale Bay and Manu Bay – are internationally famous for their point breaks.

Sights & Activities

RAGLAN SURF SCHOOL Surfing

( 07-825 7873; www.raglansurfingschool.co.nz; 5b Whaanga Rd, Whale Bay; 3hr lesson incl transport $89) The instructors at Raglan Surf School pride themselves on getting 95% of first-timers standing during their first lesson. Experienced wave hounds can rent surfboards (from $20 per hour), body boards ($5 per hour) and wet suits ($5 per hour).

RAGLAN KAYAK Kayaking

( 07-825 8862; www.raglaneco.co.nz; Wallis St Wharf) Raglan Harbour is great for kayaking. This outfit runs three-hour guided harbour paddles (per person $70) and rents out single/double kayaks (per half day $40/60).

Learning to surf at Raglan

MICAH WRIGHT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

RAGLAN BONE CARVING STUDIO Bone Carving

( 07-825 7147, 021 0223 7233; www.maoribonecarving.com; 6 Snowden Pl; workshops $69, private lessons per hour $25) Carve your own bone pendant (now that’s a souvenir!) with Rangi Wills, a reformed ‘troubled teenager’ who found out he was actually really good at carving things.

Sleeping

RAGLAN BACKPACKERS Hostel $

( 07-825 0515; www.raglanbackpackers.co.nz; 6 Wi Neera St; dm $28, s $57, tw & d $72-82; ) This chipper, purpose-built hostel has a laid-back holiday-house mood. It’s right on the water, with sea views from some rooms, and the rest arranged around a garden courtyard. There’s also a separate self-contained wing sleeping eight.

JOURNEY’S END B&B B&B, Apartment $$

( 07-825 6727; www.raglanaccommodation.co.nz; 49 Lily St; s/d $100/140, exclusive use $200; ) These two attractive en-suite rooms share a central modern lounge with a kitchenette and a lovely deck overlooking the wharf and harbour. You can book out the whole place, or just one of the rooms and risk/enjoy the (potential) company of others.

RAGLAN SUNSET MOTEL Motel $$

( 07-825 0050; www.raglansunsetmotel.co.nz; 7 Bankart St; d $140; ) A block back from the action, this two-storey motel with faux shutters randomly adhered to the facade isn’t quite a decade old. The owners also have self-contained apartments (doubles from $150) and beach houses (four people from $250) available around town.

Eating

THE SHACK Cafe, International $

( 07-825 0027; 19 Bow St; mains $9-18; 8.30am-5pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-late Fri; ) Burgers, wraps, veggie fry-ups, curries, Middle Eastern plates, tapas... This shack ain’t no hack when it comes to cafe fare. A longboard strapped to the wall, wobbly old floorboards, up-tempo tunes and international staff complete a very pretty picture.

ORCA Cafe, Modern Nz $$

( 07-825 6543; www.orcarestaurant.co.nz; 2 Wallis St; breakfast $11-18, mains $19-33; 9am-late Mon-Fri, 8am-late Sat & Sun) A day started at an Orca window seat, looking over the water, with some eggs Benedict and a superb coffee is a day well launched. Come back in the evening for rabbit pie, wine-appreciation nights and live music.

Information

Raglan Information Centre ( 07-825 0556; www.raglan.org.nz; 13 Wainui Rd; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) DOC brochures plus information about local accommodation and activities. Reduced winter hours.

Getting There & Around

Waikato District Council’s Busit! ( 0800 4287 5463; www.busit.co.nz; adult/child $7.50/3.80) heads between Hamilton and Raglan (one hour) three times daily on weekdays and twice daily on weekends.

Raglan Scenic Tours ( 07-825 0507; www.raglanscenictours.co.nz) runs a Raglan–Hamilton shuttle bus (one-way $30). Raglan Shuttle Co ( 0800 8873 2 7873; www.raglanshuttle.co.nz) offers a parallel service.

South of Raglan

Ngarunui Beach

About 5km south of town Ngarunui Beach is a great for grommets learning to surf. On the clifftop is the club for the volunteer lifeguards who patrol part of the black-sand beach from late October until April.

Manu Bay

Another 2.5km journey will bring you to Manu Bay, a legendary surf spot said to have the longest left-hand break in the world. The elongated uniform waves are created by the angle at which the Tasman Sea swell meets the coastline (it works best in a southwesterly swell).

The hippie hilltop hostel Solscape ( 07-825 8268; www.solscape.co.nz; 611 Wainui Rd, Manu Bay; sites from $16, caboose dm/d $26/68, tepees per person $34, cottages d $115-180; ) has dorms in old train carriages. The ultimate greenie experience: chilling in a tepee (surprisingly comfortable, available December to April), surrounded by native bush, knowing that you’re completely ‘off grid’ – while not sacrificing hot showers (solar) and decent toilets (composting). Self-contained sea-view cottages (try for the ‘Ivy’), surf lessons and massage ($65 per hour) complete a bewildering array of services.

Whale Bay

Whale Bay is a renowned surf spot 1km west of Manu Bay and is usually less crowded. But from the bottom of Calvert Rd you have to clamber 600m over the rocks to get to the break.

Deep in native bush Karioi Lodge ( 07-825 7873; www.karioilodge.co.nz; 5b Whaanga Rd, Whale Bay; dm/d $30/75; ) offers a sauna, a flying fox, mountain bikes, bush and beach walks, sustainable gardening, tree planting and the Raglan Surf School. There are no en suites but the rooms are clean and cosy. These friendly folks also run Sleeping Lady Lodging ( 07-825 7873; www.sleepinglady.co.nz; 5b Whaanga Rd, Whale Bay; lodges $165-570), a collection of seven luxury self-contained houses nearby, all with ocean views.

Ngarunui Beach (Click here   )

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Cambridge

The name says it all. Despite the rambunctious Waikato River looking nothing like the Cam, the good people of Cambridge have done all they can to assume an air of English gentility: village greens, avenues of deciduous trees, faux-Tudor houses.

Famous for breeding and training thoroughbred horses, you can almost smell the wealth along the main street.

Sights & Activities

CAMBRIDGE MUSEUM Museum

( 07-827 3319; www.cambridgemuseum.org.nz; 24 Victoria St; 10am-4pm) In the former courthouse, quirky old Cambridge Museum has plenty of pioneer relics, a military history room and small display on the local Te Totara Pa before it was wiped out. Oh, and there’s a stuffed kiwi if you haven’t managed to see a real one.

CAMBRIDGE THOROUGHBRED LODGE Guided Tour

( 07-827 8118; www.cambridgethoroughbredlodge.co.nz; tours adult/child $12/5, show $12/5; tours 10am-2pm by arrangement) Cambridge Thoroughbred Lodge, 6km south of town on SH1, is a top-notch horse stud. Book ahead for 90-minute tours, or ‘NZ Horse Magic’ shows which get galloping several times a week.

Sleeping & Eating

CAMBRIDGE COACH HOUSE B&B, Cabin $$

( 07-823 7922; www.cambridgecoachhouse.co.nz; 3796 Cambridge Rd, Leamington; d from $150, cottage $195) This farmhouse accommodation is a wee bit chintzy, but if you can forgive a chandelier or two it’s a beaut spot to chill-out, in the thick of Waikato’s bucolic splendour. There’s a double in the main building, two separate doubles and a self-contained cottage.

CAMBRIDGE MEWS Motel $$

( 07-827 7166; www.cambridgemews.co.nz; 20 Hamilton Rd; 1/2br from $155/190; ) All the spacious units in this chalet-style motel have double spa baths, decent kitchens and are immaculately maintained. The architect did a great job...the interior decorator less so.

RED CHERRY Cafe $$

( 07-823 1515; www.redcherrycoffee.co.nz; cnr SH1 & Forrest Rd; meals $7-21; breakfast & lunch daily, dinner Fri & Sat; ) With happy staff and a cherry-red espresso machine working overtime, barn-like Red Cherry offers coffee roasted on-site, delicious counter food and impressive cooked breakfasts (oh those corn-and-pumpkin fritters). It’s Cambridge’s best cafe by a country mile (it’s actually a country 4km out of Cambridge on the way to Hamilton).

NASH Modern Nz $$$

( 07-827 5596; www.thenash.net.nz; 47 Alpha St; mains $28-34; lunch & dinner) All white/grey/black paint and dapper, quick-moving staff, sexy Nash has transformed the old National Hotel, sinking the boot firmly into Ye Olde Cambridge. We hope it lasts: the braised lamb shoulder with roast-garlic mash and pea puree is sublime, and the streetside terrace is just made for quaffing Kiwi wine.

Information

Cambridge i-SITE ( 07-823 3456; www.cambridge.co.nz; cnr Victoria & Queen Sts; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun; ) Free Heritage & Tree Trail and town maps, and internet access.

Getting There & Away

Being on SH1, 22km southeast of Hamilton, Cambridge is well connected by bus. Environment Waikato’s Busit! ( 0800 4287 5463; www.busit.co.nz) heads to Hamilton ($6.40, 40 minutes, seven/three daily weekdays/weekends).

InterCity ( 09-583 5780; www.intercity.co.nz) services numerous destinations including Auckland ($40, 2½ hours, 12 daily), Hamilton ($24, 30 minutes, eight daily), Rotorua ($33, 1¼ hours, five daily) and Wellington ($75, 8½ hours, three daily).

Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) services the same destinations: Auckland ($13, 2½ hours, six daily), Hamilton ($20, 30 minutes, five daily), Rotorua ($15, 1¼ hours, four daily) and Wellington ($33, 9½ hours, one daily).

THE KING COUNTRY

Waitomo Caves

Even if damp, dark tunnels sound like your idea of hell, take a chill pill and head to Waitomo anyway. The limestone caves and glowing bugs here are one of the North Island’s premier attractions.

Sights

WAITOMO CAVES Caves

( 07-878 8228, 0800 456 922; www.waitomo.com; visitor centre 39 Waitomo Caves Rd; Triple Cave Combo adult/child $89/39; visitor centre 9am-5pm) The big three caves are all operated by the same company, based at the snazzy new Waitomo Glowworm Caves Visitor Centre which incorporates a cafe and theatre.

The guided tour of the Glowworm Cave (39 Waitomo Caves Rd; tours adult/child $48/21; 45min tours every 30min 9am-5pm) which is behind the visitor centre, leads past impressive stalactites and stalagmites into a large cavern known as the Cathedral. The highlight comes at the tour’s end when you board a boat and swing off onto the river. As your eyes grow accustomed to the dark you’ll see a Milky Way of little lights surrounding you – these are the glowworms.

Three kilometres west from the Glowworm Cave is Aranui Cave ( 07-878 8228, 0800 456 922; 39 Waitomo Caves Rd; tours adult/child $46/21; 45min tours 10am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm). This cave is dry (hence no glowworms) but compensates with an incredible array of limestone formations. Thousands of tiny ‘straw’ stalactites hang from the ceiling.

Culturally significant Ruakuri Cave ( 0800 782 587, 07-878 6219; 585 Waitomo Caves Rd; tours adult/child $67/26; 2hr tours 9am, 10am, 11.30am, 12.30pm, 1.30pm, 2.30pm & 3pm) has an impressive 15m-high spiral staircase, removing the need to trample through the Maori burial site at the cave entrance (as tourists did for 84 years). Tours lead through 1.6km of the 7.5km system, taking in vast caverns with glowworms, subterranean streams and waterfalls, and intricate limestone structures.

Activities

Underground

LEGENDARY BLACK WATER RAFTING COMPANY Adventure Tour

( 0800 782 5874; www.waitomo.com; 585 Waitomo Caves Rd; Black Labyrinth tour 9am, 10.30am, noon, 1.30pm & 3pm, Black Abyss tour 9am & 2pm) These guys run a Black Labyrinth tour (three hours, $119), which involves floating in a wet suit on an inner tube down a river that flows through Ruakuri Cave. The highlight is leaping off a small waterfall and then floating through a long, glowworm-covered passage. The Black Abyss tour (five hours, $220) is more adventurous and includes a 35m abseil into Ruakuri Cave, a flying fox and more glowworms and tubing. Minimum ages apply.

SPELLBOUND Caving, Guided Tour

( 0800 773 552, 07-878 7622; www.glowworm.co.nz; 10 Waitomo Caves Rd; tours adult/child $70/25; 3hr tours 10am, 11am, 2pm & 3pm) Spellbound is a good option if you don’t want to get wet, are more interested in glowworms than an ‘action’ experience, and want to avoid the big groups in the main caves. Small-group tours access parts of the heavily glowworm-dappled Mangawhitiakau cave system, 12km south of Waitomo (... and you still get to ride in a raft!).

WAITOMO ADVENTURES Caving, Adventure Tour

( 07-878 7788, 0800 924 866; www.waitomo.co.nz; 654 Waitomo Caves Rd) Waitomo Adventures offers five different cave adventures, with discounts for various combos and for advance bookings. The Lost World (four/seven hours $310/445) trip starts with a 100m abseil down into the cave, then – by a combination of walking, rock climbing, wading and swimming – you journey through a 30m-high cave to get back out, passing glowworms, amazing rock formations, waterfalls and more. The price includes lunch (underground) and dinner. The shorter version skips the wet stuff and the meals.

Descending for a Black Abyss tour, Waitomo Caves

AMOS CHAPPLE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Haggas Honking Holes (four hours, $240) includes professional abseiling instruction followed by three waterfall abseils, rock climbing and travelling along a subterranean river, traversing narrow passageways and huge caverns.

TumuTumu Toobing (four hours, $165) is a walking, climbing, swimming and tubing trip. St Benedict’s Cavern (three hours, $165) includes abseiling and a subterranean flying fox in a cave with amazing straw stalagmites.

Tramping

The i-SITE has free pamphlets on walks in the area. The walk from Aranui Cave to Ruakuri Cave is an excellent short path. From the Waitomo Glowworm Caves Visitor Centre, the 5km, three-hour-return Waitomo Walkway takes off through farmland, following Waitomo Stream to the Ruakuri Scenic Reserve, where a 30-minute return walk passes by a natural limestone tunnel.

Sleeping

ABSEIL INN B&B $$

( 07-878 7815; www.abseilinn.co.nz; 709 Waitomo Caves Rd; d inc breakfast from $150; ) A veeery steep driveway (abseiling in from a helicopter might be an easier approach) takes you to this delightful B&B with four themed rooms, great breakfasts and witty hosts. The biggest room has a double bath and valley views.

WAITOMO CAVES GUEST LODGE B&B $$

( 0800 465 762, 07-878 7641; www.waitomocavesguestlodge.co.nz; 7 Te Anga Rd; s $80, d $105-130, extra person $25, all incl breakfast; ) Bag your own cosy little hillside en-suite cabin at this central operation with a sweet garden setting. The top cabins have valley views. Large continental breakfast and resident dog included. Simple and unfussy.

WOODLYN PARK Motel $$$

( 07-878 6666; www.woodlynpark.co.nz; 1177 Waitomo Valley Rd; d $170-245, extra person $15) Boasting the world’s only hobbit motel (set into the ground with round windows and doors), Woodlyn Park’s other sleeping options include the cockpit of a combat plane, train carriages and the Waitanic – a converted WWII patrol boat fitted with chandeliers, moulded ceilings and shiny brass portholes. It’s extremely well done and the kids will love you for it.

Eating & Drinking

HUHU Cafe, Modern Nz $$

( 07-878 6674; www.huhustore.co.nz/cafe; 10 Waitomo Caves Rd; lunch $11-19, dinner $25-30; 10.30am-9pm; ) Come to Huhu twice a day – you won’t be disappointed. Slick and modern with charming service, it has great views from the terrace and sublime contemporary NZ food. Sip a strong coffee, or graze through a seasonal tapas-style menu (large or small plates) of Kiwi delights like rabbit hotpot or organic braised beef, all locally sourced (right down to the specific cow). Wonderful!

MOREPORK CAFE Cafe, Pizzeria $$

( 07-878 3395; waitomobackpackers@xtra.co.nz; Kiwi Paka, Hotel Access Rd; breakfast & lunch $7-15, dinner $14-27; 8am-8pm) At the Kiwi Paka backpackers is this cheery joint, a jack-of-all-trades eatery serving breakfast, lunch and dinner either inside or out on the deck. The ‘Caveman’ pizza is a winner (the first person to ask for more pork will be shown the door).

CURLY'S BAR Pub

( 07-878 8448; www.curlysbar.co.nz; Hotel Access Rd; 11am-2am) An easy-going tavern with lots of beers on tap, good-value pub grub (steaks, lamb shanks, nachos...lunch and dinner mains $10 to $25), chunky wooden tables and occasional quiz nights and live music.

Information

Waitomo i-SITE ( 0800 474 839, 07-878 7640; www.waitomodiscovery.org; 21 Waitomo Caves Rd; 8.15am-7pm Jan & Feb, 8.45am-5.30pm Nov, Dec, Mar & Apr, 8.45am-5pm Apr-Oct; ) Internet access, post office and booking agent.

Getting There & Away

Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) runs once daily to Otorohanga ($20, 20 minutes), Hamilton ($20, 1¼ hours) and New Plymouth ($30, three hours).

Waitomo Shuttle ( 07-873 8279, 0800 808 279; waikiwi@ihug.co.nz; 1-way adult/child $12/7) heads to the caves five times daily from Otorohanga (15 minutes away), coordinating with bus and train arrivals. One-way adult/child $12/7.

Waitomo Wanderer ( 0800 000 4321, 03-477 9083; www.travelheadfirst.com) operates a daily return services from Rotorua or Taupo, with optional caving, glowworm and tubing add-ons (packages from $133). Shuttle-only services $99 return.

Detour:

Waitomo to Awakino

This obscure route, heading west of Waitomo on Te Anga Rd, is the definition of off-the-beaten-track.

The Mangapohue Natural Bridge Scenic Reserve, 26km west of Waitomo, is a 5.5-hectare reserve with a giant natural limestone arch. It’s a five-minute walk to the arch on a wheelchair-accessible pathway.

About 4km further west is Piripiri Caves Scenic Reserve, where a five-minute walk leads to a large cave containing fossils of giant oysters. Steps wind down into the gloom…

The impressively tiered, 30m Marokopa Falls are 32km west of Waitomo. A short track (15 minutes return) from the road leads to the bottom of the falls.

LAKE TAUPO REGION

NZ’s largest lake, Lake Taupo, sits in the caldera of a volcano that began erupting about 300,000 years ago.

Today the 606-sq-km lake and its surrounding waterways are serene enough to attract fishing enthusiasts from all around the world. Well positioned by the lake, both Taupo and Turangi are popular tourist centres.

Lake Taupo

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Taupo

With a postcard-perfect setting on the northeastern shores of the lake, the increasingly exciting town of Taupo now rivals Rotorua as the North Island’s adrenaline capital. There’s an abundance of blood-pumping activities on offer but for those undesirous of white knuckles and churned stomachs, there’s plenty of enjoyment to be had simply strolling by the lake and enjoying the views, which on clear days reveal the snowy peaks of Tongariro National Park.

Taupo

Top Sights

Taupo Museum A2

Activities, Courses & Tours

1 Chris Jolly Outdoors A2

Sleeping

2  Beechtree D3

Eating

3  Brantry D3

4  Pimentos B1

5  Vine Eatery B2

Drinking

6  Shed B2

Sights

Lakeside

Taupo’s main attraction is the lake and all the things you can do in, on and around it. The water is famously chilly, but in several places (such as Hot Water Beach, immediately south of the centre) there are thermal springs just below the surface. You can swim right in front of the township, but Acacia Bay, 5km west, is a particularly pleasant spot. Even better and quieter is Whakaipo Bay, another 7km further on.

MAORI CARVINGS Carvings

Accessible only by boat, these 10m-high carvings were etched into the cliffs near Mine Bay by master carver Matahi Whakataka-Brightwell in the late 1970s. They depict Ngatoro-i-rangi, the visionary Maori navigator who guided the Tuwharetoa and Te Arawa tribes to the Taupo area a thousand years ago. There are also two smaller Matahi figures here, both of Celtic design, which depict the south wind and a mermaid.

TAUPO MUSEUM Museum

( 07-376 0414; www.taupomuseum.co.nz; Story Pl; adult/child $5/free; 10am-4.30pm) With an excellent Maori gallery and quirky displays, which include a 1960s caravan set up as if the occupants have just popped down to the lake, this little museum makes an interesting rainy-day diversion. The centrepiece is an elaborately carved Maori meeting house, Te Aroha o Rongoheikume.

Wairakei Park

HUKA FALLS Waterfall

(Huka Falls Rd) Clearly signposted and with a car park and kiosk alongside, these falls mark the spot where NZ’s longest river, the Waikato is slammed into a narrow chasm, making a dramatic 10m drop into a surging pool. You can also take a few short walks around the area or pick up the Huka Falls Walkway back to town, or the Aratiatia Rapids Walking Track to the rapids.

WAIRAKEI TERRACES & THERMAL HEALTH SPA Thermal Area

( 07-378 0913; www.wairakeiterraces.co.nz; Wairakei Rd; thermal walk adult/child $18/9, pools $25; 8.30am-5pm) Known to Maori as Waiora and latterly as Geyser Valley, this was one of the most active thermal areas in the world (with 22 geysers and 240 mud pools and springs) until 1958, when it was significantly affected by the opening of the geothermal power station. Today it’s the site of a re-created Maori village, a small meeting house, a carving centre, massage rooms and a set of healing thermal pools.

The night-time Maori Cultural Experience – which includes a traditional challenge, welcome, concert and hangi meal – gives an insight into Maori life in the geothermal areas (adult/child $95/48).

VOLCANIC ACTIVITY CENTRE Museum

(www.volcanoes.co.nz; Karetoto Rd; adult/child $10/6; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) What’s with all the geothermal activity around Taupo? This centre has the answers, with excellent, if text-heavy, displays on the region’s geothermal and volcanic activity, including a live seismograph keeping a watch on what’s currently going on.

Activities

Water Based

SPA PARK HOT SPRING Swimming

(Spa Park) The hot thermal waters of the Otumuheke Stream meet the bracing Waikato River at this pleasant and well-worn spot under a bridge, creating a free natural spa bath. It’s near the beginning of the Huka Falls Walkway, about 20 minutes from the centre of town.

HUKAFALLS JET Jetboating

( 07-374 8572; www.hukafallsjet.com; 200 Karetoto Rd; trips adult/child $105/59) This 30-minute thrill ride takes you up the river to the spray-filled foot of the Huka Falls and down to the Aratiatia Dam, all the while dodging daringly and doing acrobatic 360-degree turns.

TAUPO DEBRETTS SPA RESORT Swimming

( 07-377 6502; www.taupodebretts.co.nz; 76 Napier Taupo Hwy; adult/child $20/12; 7.30am-9.30pm) A variety of mineral-rich indoor and outdoor thermal pools are on offer. The kids will love the giant dragon waterslide, while the adults can enjoy a wide choice of treatments, such as massage and body scrubs.

CHRIS JOLLY OUTDOORS Cruise, Kayaking

Offline map Google map

( 07-378 0623; www.chrisjolly.co.nz; Marina; 9am-5.30pm) Operates the Cruise Cat, a large, modern launch that offers fishing trips and daily cruises to the Maori carvings (adult/child $44/16, 10.30am and 1.30pm). Sunday brunch trips (adult/child $62/34) are especially worthwhile. It also hires kayaks (single/double per hour $20/30) and self-drive boats ($70 to $85 per hour), and offers guided mountain-biking trips.

RAPID SENSATIONS & KAYAKING KIWI Kayaking, Rafting

( 0800 35 34 35; www.rapids.co.nz; 413 Huka Falls Rd) Offers kayak trips to the Maori carvings ($98, four hours), a gentle paddle along the Waikato ($48, two hours), white-water rafting on the Tongariro River ($88 to $145) and mountain-bike rides ($75).

Skydiving

SKYDIVE TAUPO Skydiving

( 0800 586 766; www.skydivetaupo.co.nz; 12,000ft/15,000ft $250/340) Packages are available, which include town pick-ups in a white limousine, DVDs, photos and T-shirts (from $439).

TAUPO TANDEM SKYDIVING Skydiving

( 0800 826 336; www.taupotandemskydiving.com; 12,000ft/15,000ft $249/339) Various packages are available which include DVDs, photos, T-shirts etc ($388 to $679).

Other Activities

HUKA FALLS WALKWAY Walking

Starting from the Spa Park car park at the end of County Ave (off Spa Rd), this scenic, easy walk takes just over an hour to reach the falls, following the east bank of the Waikato River. Continuing on from the falls is the 7km Huka Falls to Aratiatia Rapids walking track (another two-plus hours).

TAUPO BUNGY Bungy

( 07-377 1135; www.taupobungy.co.nz; 202 Spa Rd; solo/tandem $149/298; 8.30am-5pm, extended in summer) Sitting on a cliff edge over the mighty Waikato River, this picturesque bungy site is the most popular on the North Island, with plenty of vantage points if you’re too chicken to jump. Nonchickens will be led onto a platform jutting 20m out over the cliff (the world’s first cantilever jump, for engineering boffins) and convinced, with masterly skill, to throw themselves off the edge. Alternatively, try the giant swing (solo/tandem $99/180).

Huka Falls

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

KAIMANAWA HELI-BIKING Mountain Biking

( 07-384 2816; www.kaimanawahelibiking.co.nz; 4hr ride $395) For luxury rough riding, Heli-Biking will pick you up in a helicopter and drop you on top of the highest point in the Kaimanawa range, allowing you to ride all the way down.

Tours

HELIPRO Scenic Flights

( 07-377 8805; www.helipro.co.nz; flights $99-1150) Specialises in heli-tours, which include alpine and White Island landings, as well as shorter scenic flights over the town, lake and volcanoes.

IZARDAIR Scenic Flights

( 07-378 7835; www.izardair.com; flights $100-310) Luxury light aircraft flights over Taupo, Orakei Korako or the volcanoes.

PARADISE TOURS Bus Tour

( 07-378 9955; www.paradisetours.co.nz; adult/child $99/45) Three-hour tours to the Aratiatia Rapids, Craters of the Moon and Huka Falls. Also offers day tours to Tongariro National Park, Orakei Korako, Rotorua, Hawke’s Bay and Waitomo Caves.

Sleeping

LAKE Motel $$

( 07-378 4222; www.thelakeonline.co.nz; 63 Mere Rd; apt $155-220) A reminder that 1960s and ’70s design wasn’t all Austin Powers–style groovaliciousness, this unusual boutique motel is crammed with furniture from the era’s signature designers. The studio is a tight fit, but the four one-bedroom units all have kitchenettes and dining/living areas.

BEECHTREE Motel $$

( 07-377 0181; www.beechtreemotel.co.nz; 56 Rifle Range Rd; apt $140-390; ) The Beechtree, and its sister motel Miro next door, offer classy rooms at reasonable rates. The design is fresh and modern, with neutral-toned decor, large windows, ground-floor patios and upstairs balconies.

SACRED WATERS Apartments $$$

( 07-376 1400; www.sacredwaters.co.nz; 221-225 Lake Tce; apt $360-670; ) Apart from some awful mass-produced ‘art’, these large apartments are stylish and well-designed. Each has a contemporary kitchen and its own private thermal plunge pool, and most have wonderful lake views.

ACACIA CLIFFS LODGE B&B $$$

( 07-378 1551; www.acaciacliffslodge.co.nz; 133 Mapara Rd, Acacia Bay; r $700; ) Pushing the romance switch way past ‘rekindle’, this luxurious B&B, high in the hills above Acacia Bay, offers four modern suites – three with sumptuous lake views and one that compensates for the lack of them with a curvy bath and a private garden.

HILTON LAKE TAUPO Hotel $$$

( 07-378 7080; www.hilton.com/laketaupo; 80-100 Napier Taupo Hwy; from $230; ) Occupying the historic Terraces Hotel (1889) and a recent extension, this large complex offers the expected Hilton standard of luxury in nonthreatening shades of grey. It’s a little out of town but is handy for the DeBretts thermal complex.

Eating & Drinking

BISTRO LAGO Italian $$$

( 07-377 1400; www.bistrolago.co.nz; 80-100 Napier Taupo Hwy; breakfast $25-35, pizza $22-23, mains $37-42; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Under the long-distance tutelage of Auckland-based celebrity chef Simon Gault, the Hilton’s inhouse restaurant delivers inventive Italian-influenced dishes using quality regional ingredients. The view, stretching over the lake to the distant mountains, only adds to the magic.

VINE EATERY Tapas $$

(www.sceniccellars.co.nz; 37 Tuwharetoa St; tapas $9-20; 9am-late) Sharing the Scenic Cellars wine store, this chic eatery continues the communal ethos with a ‘shared plates’ menu – offering traditional tapas alongside heftier divisible dishes. Of course, the wine list is excellent.

Boats moored on the lake at Taupo

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

BRANTRY Modern Nz $$$

( 07-378 0484; www.thebrantry.co.nz; 45 Rifle Range Rd; mains $38-42, 2-/3-course set menu $45/60; dinner) It’s an unusual set-up, operating out of an unobtrusive 1950s house, but the Campbell sisters have turned Brantry into one of the most well-regarded restaurants in the region. The menu makes use of top-quality cuts of beef and lamb.

PIMENTOS International $$

( 07-377 4549; 17 Tamamutu St; mains $28-30; dinner Wed-Mon) Pimentos is such a local favourite that you’d be wise to book ahead. The lamb shanks and mash are legendary, but the relatively short menu offers plenty of well-considered experimentation.

SHED Pub

(www.theshedbar.co.nz; 18 Tuwharetoa St; 3pm-late Mon & Tue, noon-late Wed-Sun) A lively place to sup a beer and catch the big game, sit outside and watch the world go by, or strut your stuff to DJs on the weekends. Food is punter-pleasing pub fare in man-sized portions.

Information

Taupo i-SITE ( 07-376 0027; www.greatlaketaupo.com; Tongariro St; 8.30am-5pm) Handles bookings for accommodation, transport and activities; dispenses cheerful advice; and stocks Department of Conservation (DOC) maps and town maps.

Getting There & Away

Taupo Airport ( 07-378 7771; www.taupoairport.co.nz; 33 Anzac Memorial Dr) is 8km south of town. InterCity buses stop at the Taupo Travel Centre ( 07-378 9005; 16 Gascoigne St), which operates as a booking office. Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) services stop outside the i-SITE.

Shuttle services operate year-round between Taupo, Turangi and Tongariro National Park; Click here for operators. In winter, services run to Whakapapa Ski Area (1½ hours) and can include package deals for lift tickets and ski hire.

Getting Around

Shuttle 2U ( 07-376 7638; www.shuttle2u.co.nz; per stop $4-10, day pass $15) operates an on-demand shuttle service, picking up from local accommodation and stopping at all major attractions in and around Taupo.

Hotbus ( 0508 468 287; www.alpinehotbus.co.nz; 1st stop $15, then per stop $5) is a hop-on, hop-off minibus that covers similar sights, departing from the i-SITE.

Turangi & Around

Sleepy Turangi’s claim to fame is as the ‘Trout Fishing Capital of the World’ and as one of the country’s premier white-water-rafting destinations. Set on the Tongariro River, the town is a shortish hop for snow-bunnies from the ski fields and walking tracks of Tongariro National Park.

Sights & Activities

TONGARIRO NATIONAL TROUT CENTRE Aquarium

(www.troutcentre.com; SH1; adult/child $10/free; 10am-3pm) The DOC-managed trout hatchery has polished educational displays, a collection of rods and reels dating back to the 1880s and freshwater aquariums displaying river life, both nasty and nice. A gentle stroll along the landscaped walkway leads to the hatchery, keeping ponds, an underwater viewing chamber and a picnic area.

TOKAANU THERMAL POOLS Swimming

(Mangaroa St, Tokaanu; adult/child $6/4, private pools per 20min $10/6; 10am-9pm) Soak in thermally heated water at this unpretentious, family-orientated facility, 5km northwest of Turangi. A 20-minute stroll along the boardwalk (wheelchair accessible) showcases boiling mud pools, thermal springs and a trout-filled stream.

RAFTING NZ Rafting

( 0800 865 226; www.raftingnewzealand.com; 41 Ngawaka Pl) Offering a warm welcome, hot showers and a taste of Maori culture, this operator is a popular choice. The main trips offered are Tongariro Whitewater with an optional waterfall jump (Grade III, adult/child $119/109, four hours) and the Family Fun raft over more relaxed rapids (Grade II, adult/child $75/65, three hours).

WAI MAORI Kayaking

( 07-386 0315; www.waimaori.com; Tokaanu) Offers guided white-water kayaking (November to April, per person $159) or trips accompanied only by trout down the gentle Tokaanu Stream to Lake Taupo, passing boiling mud, hot pools and wetlands on the way (90 minutes/half day/full day $30/40/65).

FLYFISH TAUPO.COM Fishing

( 07-377 8054; www.flyfishtaupo.com; prices on application) Guide Brett Pirie offers a range of fishing excursions, including seniors-focussed ‘Old Farts & Tarts’ trips.

Mt Ruapehu

JOHN BANAGAN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Sleeping

CREEL LODGE Lodge $$

( 07-386 8081; www.creel.co.nz; 183 Taupahi Rd; s $110-130, d $125-145; ) Set in green and peaceful grounds, this heavenly hideaway backs onto a fine stretch of the Tongariro River. It’s worth upgrading to an executive garden suite for a smarter unit in an attractive punga-fenced garden.

ORETI VILLAGE Apartments $$$

( 07-386 7070; www.oretivillage.com; Mission House Dr, Pukawa; apt $220-280; ) This enclave of luxury self-contained apartments might give you a hankering for ‘village’ life – which in Oreti’s case entails gazing at blissful lake views from the comfort of a rolled-arm leather couch. Take SH41 for 15km, heading northwest of Turangi, and turn right into Pukawa Rd.

SPORTMANS LODGE Guesthouse $$

( 07-386 8150; www.sportsmanslodge.co.nz; 15 Taupahi Rd; r $72, cottage $105-130; ) Backing on to the river, this lodge is a hidden bargain for trout-fishing folk unbothered by punctuation. All the rooms share the lounge and well-equipped kitchen. The self-contained cottage sleeps four.

ANGLERS PARADISE MOTEL Motel $$

( 07-386 8980; www.anglersparadise.co.nz; cnr Ohuanga Rd & Raukura St; units $119-160; ) Looking like something out of Twin Peaks, this very old-fashioned motel sits in a 1-hectare leafy pocket where privacy prevails. It’s geared up for anglers, with guides happily arranged and a smokehouse on-site.

Eating

TONGARIRO LODGE Modern Nz $$$

( 07-386 7946; www.tongarirolodge.co.nz; 83 Grace Rd; mains $30-42; dinner) Some of the world’s most famous blokes (Robert Mitchum, Liam Neeson, Larry Hagman, Jimmy Carter, Timothy Dalton) have come to this luxury riverside fishing lodge, set in 9 hectares of parkland, to relax in wood-panelled anonymity. Not surprisingly, the menu is orientated around man-sized slabs of meat but the real squeals of delight come when lucky lodgers are presented with their day’s catch, smoked and served to perfection.

ORETI VILLAGE French $$$

( 07-386 7070; Mission House Dr, Pukawa; mains $30-38; lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Tue-Sun) It’s hard to imagine a more romantic spot to while away a balmy summer’s evening than looking over the lake from Oreti’s terrace.

Information

Turangi i-SITE ( 07-386 8999; www.greatlaketauponz.com; Ngawaka Pl; 8.30am-5pm; ) A good stop for information on Tongariro National Park, Kaimanawa Forest Park, trout fishing, and snow and road conditions.

Getting There & Away

Both InterCity and Naked Bus coaches stop outside the i-SITE.

THE CENTRAL PLATEAU

Tongariro National Park

Established in 1887, Tongariro was NZ’s first and the world’s fourth national park, and is one of NZ’s three World Heritage Sites. Its three towering, active volcanoes – Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro – rise from a vast, scrub-covered alpine plateau, making this one of the nation’s most spectacular locations. In winter it’s a busy ski area.

Tongariro National Park & Around

Sights

1 Tongariro National Trout Centre D2

Activities, Courses & Tours

2 Tokaanu Thermal Pools D2

3 Tukino Ski Area C5

Sleeping

4  Oreti Village D1

Eating

Oreti Village (see 4)

5  Tongariro Lodge D2

Sights

MT RUAPEHU Volcano

(www.mtruapehu.com) The multipeaked summit of Ruapehu (2797m) is the highest and most active of the park’s volcanoes, and the centrepiece of the national park, with Whakapapa Village (pronounced ‘fa-ka-pa-pa’), numerous walking tracks and three ski fields on its slopes.

The name means ‘pit of sound’, a reference to its regular eruptions.

MT NGAURUHOE Volcano

Much younger than the other two volcanoes, it is estimated that Ngauruhoe (2287m) formed in the last 2500 years. In contrast to the others, which have multiple vents, Ngauruhoe is a conical, single-vent volcano with perfectly symmetrical slopes – which is the reason that it was chosen to star as Mt Doom in Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings. It can be climbed in summer, but in winter (under snow) this steep climb is only for experienced mountaineers.

MT TONGARIRO Volcano

The Red Crater of Mt Tongariro (1968m) last erupted in 1926. This ancient but still active volcano has coloured lakes dotting its uneven summit. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing, a magnificent walk, passes beside the lakes, right through several craters, and down through lush native forest.

Activities

WHAKAPAPA & TUROA SKI AREAS Skiing, Snowboarding

( Turoa 06-385 8456, Whakapapa 07-892 4000; www.mtruapehu.com; daily lift pass adult/child $95/57, valid at both resorts) These linked resorts straddle either side of Mt Ruapehu and are NZ’s two largest ski areas. Each offers similar skiing at an analogous altitude (around 2300m), with areas to suit each level of experience – from beginners’ slopes to black diamond runs for the pros. The same lift passes cover both ski areas.

The only accommodation at the ski fields is in private lodges (mainly owned by ski clubs), so most Whakapaka visitors stay at Whakapaka or National Park Village.

TUKINO SKI AREA Skiing, Snowboarding

( 0800 885 466, 06-387 6294; www.tukino.co.nz; daily lift pass adult/child $50/30) Club-operated Tukino is on Mt Ruapehu’s east, 46km from Turangi. It’s quite remote, 14km down a gravel road from the sealed Desert Rd (SH1), and you need a 4WD vehicle to get in. Uncrowded, with mostly beginner and intermediate runs.

42 TRAVERSE Mountain Biking

This four- to six-hour, 46km mountain-bike trail through the Tongariro Forest is one of the most popular one-dayers on the North Island. The Traverse follows old logging tracks, making for relatively dependable going, although there are plenty of ups and downs – more downs as long as you start from Kapoors Rd (off SH47) and head down to Owhango.

TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT Tramping

Classed as one of NZ’s Great Walks, the Northern Circuit circumnavigates Ngauruhoe and affords spectacular views all around, particularly of Mt Tongariro. The walk covers the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

Highlights of the circuit include tramping through or past several volcanic craters, including the South Crater, Central Crater and Red Crater; brilliantly colourful volcanic lakes, including the Emerald Lakes, Blue Lake and the Upper and Lower Tama Lakes; the cold Soda Springs; and various other volcanic formations, including cones, lava flows and glacial valleys.

The safest and most popular time to walk the track is from December to March. The track is served by four well-maintained huts: Mangatepopo, Ketetahi, Oturere and Waihohonu.

JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Reputedly the best one-day walk in NZ, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing traverses spectacular volcanic geography, from an active crater to steaming vents and beautiful coloured lakes. And the views aren’t bad either.

Although achievable in one day, the Crossing is exhausting and shouldn’t be taken lightly. Weather can change without warning, so make sure you are adequately equipped. If you’re not in top walking condition you may prefer to take two days, spending a night at Ketatahi Hut.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing can be reached from Mangatepopo Rd, off SH47, and from Ketetahi Rd, off SH46.

Because of its popularity, there are plenty of shuttle services to both ends of the track. The shuttles need to be booked and you’ll be expected to complete the track in a reasonable time.

CRATER LAKE Tramping

The unmarked rugged route up to Ruapehu’s Crater Lake (seven hours return) is a good one, allowing you to see the acidic lake up close, but this walk is strictly off limits when there’s volcanic activity. You can cut three hours off it by catching the chairlift (adult/child $26/16; 9am-3.30pm mid-Dec–Apr) from Whakapapa Ski Area. Guided walks ( 0508 782 734; www.mtruapehu.com; adult/child incl lift pass $145/95) to Crater Lake run from mid-December to mid-April, weather dependent.

RIDGE TRACK Walking

A 30-minute return walk that climbs through beech forest to alpine-shrub areas for views of all three peaks.

WHAKAPAPA NATURE WALK Walking

Suitable for wheelchairs, this 15-minute loop track begins about 200m above the visitor centre, passing through beech forest and gardens typical of the park’s vegetation zones.

Sleeping & Eating

Whakapapa Village has limited accommodation and prices quoted here are for summer; rates are generally much higher during the ski season. National Park village and Ohakune offer a greater range of options.

BAYVIEW CHATEAU TONGARIRO Hotel $$

( 07-892 3809; www.chateau.co.nz; Whakapapa Village; r from $155; ) NZ’s great missed tourism opportunity promises much, with its sublime setting and manor house grandeur, but the old-world charm is fading fast. Which is a shame, as a cashed-up interior designer could swiftly transform the Chateau back into the iconic hotel it was when it first opened its doors in 1929. Within the hulking complex are a cinema, the elegant Ruapehu Room (mains $36-38; dinner), Pihanga Cafe (mains $20-27; lunch & dinner) and the T-bar, a cosy spot for a warming winter tipple. The operators also manage the neighbouring nine-hole public golf course, Fergusson’s Cafe (mains $5-10; breakfast & lunch; ) and Fergusson Motel, which has self-contained family chalets (from $155).

Information

Further national park information is available from the Ohakune and Turangi i-SITEs.

DOC Visitor Centre (Department of Conservation; 07-892 3729; www.doc.govt.nz; Whakapapa Village; 8am-5pm) Has maps and info on all corners of the park, including walks, huts and current skiing, track and weather conditions.

Getting There & Around

Bus

There are numerous shuttle services to Whakapapa Village, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and other key destinations from Taupo, Turangi, National Park village and Ohakune. Book your bus in advance to avoid unexpected strandings.

Alpine Hotbus ( 0508 468 287; www.alpinehotbus.co.nz) Provides shuttles to the Crossing from Rotorua ($99), Taupo ($55) and Turangi ($40), and from Taupo to Whakapapa and National Park village ($60).

Mountain Shuttle ( 0800 117 686; www. tongarirocrossing.com) Runs shuttles from Turangi to Whakapapa and the Tongariro Alpine Crossing ($40), and one-way hike-to-your-car Crossing shuttles ($25).

Tongariro Expeditions ( 0800 828 763; www.tongariroexpeditions.com) Runs shuttles from Taupo ($59, 1½ hours), Turangi ($40, 45 minutes) and Whakapapa ($35, 15 minutes) for the Crossing and the Northern Circuit.

Wellington & Lower North Island

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF LONELY PLANET MAPS

E-reader devices vary in their ability to show our maps. To get the most out of the maps in this guide, use the zoom function on your device. Or, visit http://media.lonelyplanet.com/ebookmaps and grab a PDF download or print out all the maps in this guide.

WELLINGTON & LOWER NORTH ISLAND

WELLINGTON & LOWER NORTH ISLAND’S HIGHLIGHTS

WELLINGTON & LOWER NORTH ISLAND’S BEST…

NEED TO KNOW

WELLINGTON & LOWER NORTH ISLAND ITINERARIES

DISCOVER WELLINGTON & LOWER NORTH ISLAND

Wellington

Kapiti Coast

The Wairarapa

Hawke’s Bay

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Wellington & Lower North Island

Rock into Wellington for a big-city hit: art-house cinema, designer boutiques, hip bars, live-music venues and late-night coffee shops – it’s all in ‘Windy Welly’.

Wellington is New Zealand’s capital city, but Wellingtonians also lay passionate claim to the crown of ‘cultural capital’. Suited-up civil servants abound, but the city also supports a significant population of creative types who foster an admirably active and accessible arts scene.

Less than an hour away to the north, the Kapiti Coast offers more settled weather and a beachy vibe, with the Kapiti Island nature reserve a highlight. An hour from Wellington to the northeast is the Wairarapa, a burgeoning weekend-away wine region where the pinot noir grapes hang heavy on the vine. Keep trucking north and you’ll bump into the glorious beaches and prosperous wine towns of the East Coast.

Wellington Cable Car (Click here   )

OLIVER STREWE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Wellington & Lower North Island

Te Papa, Wellington

Napier Art Deco

Nocturnal Wellington

Museum of Wellington City & Sea

Kapiti Coast

Zealandia, Wellington

The Wairarapa

Cape Palliser Lighthouse (Click here   )

DAVID WALL/ALAMY ©

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Wellington & Lower North Island’s Highlights

Te Papa

Occupying an unmissable building on the Wellington waterfront, Te Papa is New Zealand’s national museum. ‘Te Papa’ translates into ‘container of treasures’. And that’s exactly what is: a giant six-storey treasure box with an intense, interactive NZ focus. Maori culture is a real highlight.

Mountains to Sea exhibit

COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF NEW ZEALAND TE PAPA TONGAREWA ©

Need to Know

WHEN TO VISIT Beat the crowds with a Thursday evening visit (until 9pm) BEST PHOTO OP Views from level 6 ADMISSION Free! For further coverage, Click here and Click here

Te Papa Don’t Miss List

BY BRIDGET MACDONALD, TE PAPA

1 MAORI GALLERIES & TOURS

On level 4 you can see a beautiful example of a traditionally carved marae (meeting house), contrasting with a big contemporary marae. The museum also has many Maori guides, and dedicated Maori tours as well. The Bush City exhibit covers everything from wetlands to volcanic regions, forests and caves: you can learn about how Maori used to live and see how plants are used in modern-day life.

Te Hono ki Hawaiki marae

COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF NEW ZEALAND TE PAPA TONGAREWA ©

2 NATIONAL ART COLLECTION, LEVEL 5

On upper level 5 we have an exhibition called Toi Te Papa: Art of the Nation: a chronological story of NZ’s art history. It takes you right through from traditional woodcarving to big contemporary works that change regularly – there’s always something new.

3 GOLDEN DAYS, LEVEL 4

The Golden Days film features nostalgic footage covering 80 years of iconic moments in NZ history. It’s the good and bad of our national history: people from all over the world find a connection with it. It runs every 20 minutes.

4 OUR SPACE, LEVEL 2

Our Space (www.ourspace.tepapa.com) has a 14m satellite map of NZ. When you stand on it, imagery and video clips from that region light up on the wall beside you. People can look and see where they’ve been and where they’re going. The Wall is where people can upload their own images to our database before they arrive. Using interactive wand technology, you can look for your images and manipulate them on giant screens.

The Map, Our Space

COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF NEW ZEALAND TE PAPA TONGAREWA ©

5 AWESOME FORCES, LEVEL 2

The Awesome Forces earthquake house here gives visitors an insight into New Zealand’s geology, so that when they’re travelling across the country they can understand how tectonic forces have shaped our landscapes.

Napier Art Deco

Napier’s 1931 earthquake (7.8 on the Richter scale) caused 261 casualties regionally – 157 in Napier. The town was subsequently rebuilt in architectural styles fashionable at the time: art deco, Spanish Mission, Prairie… Much of this cache is beautifully preserved, and art deco has become the town’s pride and joy.

Masonic Hotel (Click here   )

JOHN ELK III/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Need to Know

BEST TIME TO VISIT Festivals in summer, fewer crowds in spring/autumn BEST ARCHITECTURE National Tobacco Company and AMP buildings For further coverage, Click here

Napier Art Deco Don’t Miss List

BY ROBERT MCGREGOR, NAPIER ART DECO TRUST

1 ART-DECO HIGHLIGHTS

My favourite individual buildings are the National Tobacco Company, the Daily Telegraph and the Municipal Theatre. Also the landscaped gardens and architectural features along the waterfront – these were the final touches when they finished rebuilding the city. The plaza here provides a setting for civic events, which most towns don’t have.

JOHN ELK III/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

2 HOUSES IN MAREWA

Marewa, Napier’s art-deco suburb, has a real concentration of art-deco houses. Most of them are well preserved – some have had pitched roofs put on them, but many of them look as they always did. The council now enforces regulations to preserve the architectural qualities here.

3 TAKE A GUIDED TOUR

You can do a self-guided tour around the main buildings (you could easily spend a couple of hours), or take a guided tour (Click here). There’s a one-hour morning walk, which is good for people who don’t have much time or who are leaving town that day; and a two-hour afternoon walk.

4 ART DECO WEEKEND

Ticket sales for the annual Art Deco Weekend (www.artdeconapier.com) are always good! New Zealanders aren’t traditionally into dressing up, but we see a lot of period costumes and vintage Packard cars driving around this weekend. There’s lots of great Hawke’s Bay wine and food, and jazz and dancing in the street. It’s great fun.

5 A VISIT TO HASTINGS

Hastings (Click here) is about 20km down the road. It was less damaged than Napier in the earthquake, but there are some lovely art-deco buildings there, too. There’s always been a rivalry between the two cities – it’s unusual to have two such towns in close proximity.

AMOS CHAPPLE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Nocturnal Wellington

Everyone in Wellington (Click here) seems to be in a band and looks a tad depleted, as if they party too hard and spend their time daubing canvasses and scribbling poetry. It follows that there’s a lot going on here at night! Wellington’s pubs, live-music rooms and coffee shops are kickin’ after dark. Go bar-hopping around Cuba St and Courtenay Pl and see what kind of fun comes your way.

Mighty Mighty bar

OLIVER STREWE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Museum of Wellington City & Sea

Te Papa may have the national interests all sewn up, but the Museum of Wellington City & Sea (Click here), inside a beautiful 1892 warehouse, puts a local spin on things. Wellington is a great seagoing city, and like any port there are plenty of influences flowing in and out on the tide. Learn how the ocean has shaped contemporary Wellington, and how local Maori connected with sea and land for centuries prior.

RICHARD CUMMINS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Kapiti Coast

When you’re travelling around from A to B, it’s easy to overlook the little (and often brilliant) places in between. The Kapiti Coast (Click here) falls into this category: just an hour from Wellington and strewn with empty beaches and endearing coastal towns, and with Kapiti Island offshore, the area makes a great pit stop, detour or destination in its own right.

PAUL KENNEDY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Zealandia

Up in the hills west of Wellington, Zealandia (Click here) is a brilliant ecosanctuary – a leafy, fenced valley that’s home to 30-plus species of native bird, including a free-ranging population of little spotted kiwi. Or, if you’re more of a cold-blooded operator, this is your chance to see a tuatara, NZ’s iconic native lizard. There’s plenty of natural-history info to soak up, plus dozens of kilometres of walking tracks and daytime and nocturnal tours.

OLIVER STREWE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

The Wairarapa

Over the hills (and not so far away) from Wellington is the Wairarapa (Click here) district. Once a sleepy enclave of farms, farmers and farmers’ families, it’s now a booming wine region with a boutique bent. Pinot noir is the stuff that’s doing the bending: sample plenty, then bed down for the night in an upmarket B&B and swan between cafes and restaurants the next day.

BLAINE HARRINGTON III/CORBIS ©

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Wellington & Lower North Island’s Best…

Cafes & Restaurants

»Ortega Fish Shack (Click here) The best of local submarine offerings (no, not big sandwiches)

»Scopa (Click here) Authentic Italian on Cuba St

»Fidel’s (Click here) This longstanding, left-leaning boho cafe is still Wellington’s best

»Logan Brown (Click here) Classy but unpretentious eats in a converted city-centre bank

»Trio Café at Coney Winery (Click here) The pick of the Wairarapa’s wine-and-dine options

Places to Stretch Your Legs

»Mt Victoria Lookout (Click here) As AC/DC profess, it’s a long way to the top, but the views are awesome

»Wellington Botanic Gardens (Click here) Catch the cable-car up the slope, then wander back down through the greenery

»Queen Elizabeth Park (Click here) Head for the dunes in this Kapiti Coast seaside park

»Napier art-deco walking tour (Click here) Check out Napier’s architectural gems on foot

Places to Get Lost

»Kapiti Island (Click here) Talk with the animals (and birds) on this untrammelled offshore nature reserve

»Cape Palliser (Click here) Remote seal colonies and surf breaks

»Otari-Wilton’s Bush (Click here) Native bushland enclave on Wellington’s back doorstep

»Zealandia (Click here) Disappear along forested walking trails: it’s hard to believe Wellington city is just 2km away!

Places to Get Boozy

»Cuba St (Click here) Bars, backpackers, buskers… The funky, artsy heart-and-soul of the capital

»Wairarapa Wine Country (Click here) Day-trip or overnight in the Wairarapa’s wine-soaked valleys

»Hawke’s Bay Wine Region (Click here) Sunny days and classy tastings around Napier

»Courtenay Pl (Click here) Get down-and-dirty with Wellington’s thirsty throngs

Parliament House (Click here   ), Wellington

DAVID WALL/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

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Need to Know

ADVANCE PLANNING

»One month before Organise domestic flights, car hire and tickets on the Overlander train between Wellington and Auckland

»Two weeks before Book a South Island ferry crossing and accommodation across the region

»One week before Book a seat on a Hawke’s Bay winery tour, a tour to Kapiti Island and a table at one of Wellington’s top restaurants

RESOURCES

»Wellington i-SITE (www.wellingtonnz.com) The low-down on New Zealand’s ‘capital of cool’

»Dominion Post (www.dompost.co.nz) News from the nation’s political heartland

»Wairarapa NZ (www.wairarapanz.com) Accommodation, wine, food and regional highlights

»Napier i-SITE (www.napiercity.co.nz) Info on the art-deco city

»Hawke’s Bay Tourism (www.hawkesbaynz.com) Things to see, do, eat and drink around Hawke’s Bay

GETTING AROUND

»Walk Along Courtenay Pl and up and down Cuba St

»Bus Across central Wellington

»Cable car From Lambton Quay up the hill to the Wellington Botanic Gardens

»Hire a car From Wellington through the Wairarapa and up the East Coast

»Minibus Around the Hawke’s Bay and Wairarapa wineries

»Ferry From Wellington to Picton on the South Island, and out to Kapiti Island

»Train Between Wellington and Auckland on the Overlander

BE FOREWARNED

»Windy Welly The Crowded House song Four Seasons In One Day was written about Melbourne, but the same applies in Wellington: expect sun, rain and (most of all) wind at any moment

Top of chapter

Wellington & Lower North Island Itineraries

Rub shoulders with the elegantly wasted locals in Wellington’s cafes, bars and pubs, then flush out your system with some fresh air and wilderness beyond the city’s bohemian microcosm.

WELLINGTON TO WELLINGTON CITY DAYS, CITY NIGHTS

Comprehend the hills, valleys and convolutions of this far-flung San Francisco of the South: drive (or walk) up to (1) Mt Victoria Lookout, or ride the cable car up to the (2) Wellington Botanic Gardens. After lunch on cool (3) Cuba St, immerse yourself in all things Kiwi at (4) Te Papa or the excellent, locally focused (5) Museum of Wellington City & Sea. Toast your efforts with a jug of beer at (6) Mighty Mighty.

The next day, fuel up with coffee and eggs at Nikau in the (7) City Gallery, then truck out to (8) Zealandia to meet the birds and learn about NZ conservation. Alternatively, encounter some other bird-brains on a tour of (9) Parliament House. For dinner try (10) Chow, then spend your evening bar-hopping along (11) Courtenay Pl. Nocturnal entertainment could involve live music, a movie at the gloriously restored (12) Embassy Theatre, or a midnight snack at a late-closing cafe – or all three.

Get active on day three: storm the trails at (13) Makara Peak Mountain Bike Park, or go kayaking or paddle-boarding on the harbour. After all that activity, reward yourself with some NZ craft beer at (14) Hashigo Zake.

WELLINGTON TO HAWKE’S BAY WINE REGION WINE & WILDERNESS

Done central (1) Wellington to death? Time to hightail it over the hills for some wine tasting around classy (2) Martinborough in the Wairarapa Wine Country: pinot noir is the name of the game here. A bike ride through the vines is a divine way to go, or book a seat on a minibus tour. Bunk down that night in a cosy country B&B.

Recharge in the local cafes and restaurants the next morning, then track south to explore the weird wilds of (3) Cape Palliser, which offers pungent seal colonies, a beach full of rusty tractors, a lonesome lighthouse and surreal, end-of-the-world vibes.

From here you can head west to the underrated (4) Kapiti Coast for a night (aim for beachy Paekakariki), or get your skates on a travel north to sunny (5) Napier in the Hawke’s Bay region. The town is home to an improbably well-preserved collection of art-deco architecture, built in the 1930s after a devastating quake. There are some cool cafes and bars here too, and encircling Napier are the vineyards and wineries of the (6) Hawke’s Bay Wine Region (brilliant chardonnay!).

Top of chapter

Discover Wellington & Lower North Island

At a Glance

»Wellington (Click here) NZ’s capital is flush with culture, coffee and crazy nightlife.

»The Wairarapa (Click here) Indulgent vales full of Wellington wine weekenders.

»Kapiti Coast (Click here) Holiday town and eerie Kapiti Island an hour north of Wellington.

»Hawke’s Bay (Click here) Laid-back and sunny, with wine tasting, beach-bumming and art-deco architecture.

WELLINGTON

Sights

Wellington

Top Sights

City Gallery C1

Te Papa E2

Activities, Courses & Tours

1  On Yer Bike B4

Sleeping

2  Capital View Motor Inn A5

3  City Cottages B5

4 Comfort & Quality Hotels B4

5  Museum Hotel E2

6  Ohtel F3

7  Victoria Court B3

Eating

8  Chow D3

9  Farmers Market A3

10  Fidel's B4

11  Harbourside Market E2

12  Logan Brown B4

13  Midnight Espresso B4

14  Nikau Gallery Cafe C1

15  Ortega Fish Shack F4

16  Scopa C3

17  Shinobi Sushi Lounge D5

18  Sweet Mother's Kitchen E4

Drinking

19  Ancestral E4

Betty's (see 24)

20 Good Luck B3

21  Hashigo Zake D2

22  Havana B4

23 Hawthorn Lounge D4

24 Hummingbird E3

Library (see 8)

25  Malthouse D3

26  Matterhorn C3

Mighty Mighty (see 26)

27  Southern Cross B5

28 Vivo B2

Entertainment

29  BATS E3

30  Bodega B3

31  Circa D2

32  Embassy Theatre E4

33  Paramount E3

34 San Francisco Bath House B4

35  Sandwiches E3

Shopping

36  Kura E3

37  Starfish B1

Museums & Galleries

MUSEUM OF WELLINGTON CITY & SEA Museum

(www.museumofwellington.co.nz; Queens Wharf; 10am-5pm) For an imaginative, interactive experience of Wellington’s social and salty maritime history, swing into the Museum of Wellington. Highlights include a moving documentary about the tragedy of the Wahine, and ancient Maori legends dramatically told using tiny hologram actors and special effects. The building itself is an old Bond Store dating from 1892.

City Gallery, adorned with an exhibition by Yayoi Kusama

DAVID WALL/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

CITY GALLERY Gallery

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(www.citygallery.org.nz; Civic Sq, Wakefield St; charges may apply for major exhibits; 10am-5pm) Housed in the monumental old library in Civic Sq, Wellington’s much-loved City Gallery does a cracking job of securing acclaimed contemporary international exhibitions, as well as unearthing and supporting those at the forefront of the NZ scene.

PARLIAMENT HOUSE Cultural Building

(www.parliament.nz; Bowen St; tours on the hour 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun) The austere grey-and-cream Parliament House was completed in 1922. Free one-hour tours depart from the ground-floor foyer (arrive 15 minutes prior). Next door is the 1899 neo-Gothic Parliamentary Library building, as well as the modernist Beehive designed by British architect Sir Basil Spence and built between 1969 and 1980.

Gardens & Lookouts

WELLINGTON BOTANIC GARDENS Gardens

The hilly, 25-hectare botanic gardens can be almost effortlessly visited via a cable-car ride (nice bit of planning, eh?). They boast a tract of original native forest along with varied collections including a beaut rose garden and international plant collections. The gardens are also accessible from the Centennial Entrance on Glenmore St (Karori bus 3).

CABLE CAR & MUSEUM Tram

(www.wellingtoncablecar.co.nz; 1-way adult/child $3.50/1, return $6/2; departs every 10min, 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-10pm Sat, 9am-9pm Sun) One of Wellington’s most famous attractions is the little red cable car that clanks up the steep slope from Lambton Quay to Kelburn. At the top is the Wellington Botanic Gardens, the Carter Observatory and the small-but-nifty Cable Car Museum (www.cablecarmuseum.co.nz; admission free), which tells the cable car’s story since it was built in 1902 to open up hilly Kelburn for settlement. Take the cable car back down the hill, or ramble down through the gardens (a 30- to 60-minute walk, depending on your wend).

MT VICTORIA LOOKOUT Lookout

For a readily accessible viewpoint of the city, harbour and surrounds, venture up to the lookout atop the 196m Mt Victoria, east of the city centre. You can take bus 2 some of the way up, but the rite of passage is to sweat it out on the walk (ask a local for directions or just follow your nose). If you’ve got your own wheels, take Oriental Pde along the waterfront and then scoot up Carlton Gore Rd.

OTARI-WILTON’S BUSH Park

(160 Wilton Rd; dawn-dusk) About 3km west of the city is Otari-Wilton’s Bush, the only botanic gardens in NZ specialising in native flora. There are more than 1200 plant species here, including some of the city’s oldest trees, as well as 11km of walking trails and delightful picnic areas. Bus 14 from the city passes the gates.

Wildlife

ZEALANDIA Wildlife Reserve

( 04-920 9200; www.visitzealandia. com; Waiapu Rd; adult/child/family exhibition only $18.50/9/46, exhibition & valley $28.80/14.50/71.50; 10am-5pm, last entry 4pm) This groundbreaking ecosanctuary is tucked in the hills about 2km west of town (bus 3 passes nearby, or see the Zealandia website for the free shuttle). Living wild within the fenced valley are more than 30 native bird species including rare takahe, saddleback, hihi and kaka, as well as NZ’s most accessible wild population of tuatara and little spotted kiwi. More than 30km of tracks can be explored and there’s a daily tour (11.15am). The night tour provides an opportunity to spot nocturnal creatures including kiwi, frogs and glowworms (adult/child $76.50/36).

Activities

FERG’S KAYAKS Kayaking

(www.fergskayaks.co.nz; Shed 6, Queens Wharf; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) Punish your tendons with indoor rock climbing (adult/child $15/10), cruise the waterfront on a pair of in-line skates ($15 for two hours) or paddle around the harbour in a kayak or on a stand-up paddleboard (from $15 for one hour). There’s also bike hire (one hour from $15) and guided kayaking trips.

MAKARA PEAK MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK Mountain Biking

(www.makarapeak.org; South Karori Rd, Karori; admission by donation) In the hills of Karori, 4km west of the city centre (bus 3, 17 or 18), this excellent 200-hectare park is laced with 24km of single-track ranging from beginner to expert. The nearby Mud Cycles ( 04-476 4961; www.mudcycles.co.nz; 421 Karori Rd, Karori; half-/full-day/weekend bike hire from $30/45/75; 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri) has mountain bikes for hire, and runs guided tours for riders of all abilities.

Tours

WALK WELLINGTON Guided Tour

( 04-802 4860; www.walkwellington.org.nz; adult/child $20/10; tours 10am daily, plus 5.30pm Mon, Wed & Fri Nov-Mar) Informative and great-value two-hour walking tours focussing on the city and waterfront, departing the i-SITE. Book online, phone or just turn up.

HAMMONDS SCENIC TOURS Guided Tour

( 04-472 0869; www.wellingtonsightseeingtours.com; city tour adult/child $55/27.50, Kapiti Coast $100/50, Wairarapa $195/97.50) Runs a 2½-hour city highlights tour, four-hour tour of the Kapiti Coast, and a full-day Wairarapa experience including Cape Palliser.

ZEST FOOD TOURS Guided Tour

( 04-801 9198; www.zestfoodtours.co.nz; tours from $128) Runs 2½- to 5½-hour small-group city sightseeing tours; longer tours include lunch with matched wines at Logan Brown (Click here).

Sleeping

OHTEL Boutique Hotel $$$

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( 04-803 0600; www.ohtel.com; 66 Oriental Parade; d $265-395; ) Aesthetes check in and don’t want to check out at this bijou hotel on Oriental Pde. Individually decorated rooms are beautified with stylish furniture and contemporary Kiwi artwork and ceramics, avidly collected by the architect-owner. The bathrooms in the deluxe rooms and suites, with their vista walls and deep tubs, are a designer’s wet dream.

CAPITAL VIEW MOTOR INN Motel $$

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( 0800 438 505, 04-385 0515; www.capitalview.co.nz; 12 Thompson St; d $125-160; ) Many of the rooms in this well-maintained, multistorey building close to Cuba St do indeed enjoy capital views – especially the large, good-value penthouse (sleeps five, $220). All are self-contained, and recent renovations have freshened things up.

BOOKLOVERS B&B B&B $$

( 04-384 2714; www.booklovers.co.nz; 123 Pirie St; s/d from $150/180; ) This gracious, book-filled B&B run by award-winning author Jane Tolerton has four guest rooms with TV, CDs and CD/DVD player. Three have en suites, one has a private bathroom. Bus 2 runs from the front gate to Courtenay Pl and the train station, and the city’s ‘green belt’ begins right next door. Free wi-fi and parking.

COMFORT & QUALITY HOTELS Hotel $$

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( 04-385 2156, 0800 873 553; www.hotelwellington.co.nz; 223 Cuba St; d $104-200; ) Two hotels in one: the sympathetically renovated historic Trekkers building with its smaller, cheaper rooms (Comfort); and the snazzier high-rise Quality with modern styling and a swimming pool. Both share in-house bar and dining room (mains $22 to $30). Two solid options in the heart of Cuba.

CITY COTTAGES Rental House $$

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( 0210 739 232; www.citybedandbreakfast.co.nz; Tonks Grove; d/q $170/200; ) Saved only after protracted public protest when the new bypass went through, these two tiny 1880 cottages sit among a precious precinct of historic Cuba St buildings. Clever conversion has transformed them into all-mod-con, self-contained one-bedroom pads, comfortable for two but sleeping up to four thanks to a sofa bed.

MUSEUM HOTEL Hotel $$$

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( 0800 994 335, 04-802 8900; www.museumhotel.co.nz; 90 Cable St; r & apt Mon-Thu $205-399, Fri-Sun $199-349; ) Formerly known as ‘Museum Hotel de Wheels’ (to make way for Te Papa, it was rolled here from its original location 120m away), this art-filled hotel keeps the quirk-factor high. Bright-eyed staff, a very good restaurant with outrageous decor, and groovy tunes piped into the lobby make a refreshing change from homogenised business hotels. Tasty weekend/weekly rates.

VICTORIA COURT Motel $$

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( 04-385 7102; www.victoriacourt.co.nz; 201 Victoria St; r $149-205; ) Our top motel choice in the city centre, with plenty of parking. The affable owners offer modern, spacious studios and apartments with spa baths, kitchenettes, slick blond-wood joinery and TVs. Two disabled-access units; larger units sleep six.

COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF NEW ZEALAND TE PAPA TONGAREWA ©

Don't Miss

Te Papa

Te Papa is the city’s ‘must-see’ attraction, and for reasons well beyond the fact that it’s NZ’s national museum. It’s highly interactive, fun, and full of surprises.

The riches inside include an amazing collection of Maori artefacts and the museum’s own colourful marae; natural history and environment exhibitions; Pacific and NZ history galleries; national art collection; and themed hands-on ‘discovery centres’ for children. Exhibitions occupy impressive gallery spaces with a high-tech twist (eg motion-simulator rides and a house shaking through an earthquake).

You could spend a day exploring Te Papa’s six floors but still not see it all. To cut to the chase, head to the information desk on level two. For exhibition highlights and to get your bearings, the one-hour ‘Introducing Te Papa’ tour ($14) is a good idea; tours leave from the info desk at 10.15am, 12pm and 2pm daily in winter, more frequently in summer.

NEED TO KNOW

Click here www.tepapa.govt.nz; 55 Cable St; admission free; 10am-6pm Fri-Wed, to 9pm Thu

Eating

Two excellent produce markets run from dawn till around 2pm on Sundays – the seriously fruit ’n’ veg Farmers Market Offline map Google map (cnr Victoria & Vivian Sts), and the more varied Harbourside Market Offline map Google map (Wakefield St) next to Te Papa.

ORTEGA FISH SHACK Seafood $$$

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( 04-382 9559; www.ortega.co.nz; 16 Marjoribanks St; mains $32-34) Fishing floats, salty portraits and Egyptian floor tiles set a colourful Mediterranean scene, a good hook on which to hang a seafood dinner. Fish comes many ways (with ratatouille and crayfish butter; on pork and prawn kedgeree with nam prik relish) while the afters head straight for France courtesy of orange crepes and one of Welly’s best cheese boards. Excellent food in a relaxed yet upbeat environment.

SCOPA Italian $$

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(cnr Cuba & Ghuznee Sts; mains $15-26; 9am-late Mon-Sun; ) Perfect pizza, proper pasta and other authentic Italian treats make dining at this modern cucina a pleasure. The bianche (white) pizzas make a refreshing change as do the pizzaiolo – pizzas of the week. Watch the groovy ‘Cubans’ from a seat in the window. Lunchtime specials; sexy evenings complete with cocktails.

FIDEL’S Cafe $

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(234 Cuba St; meals $9-20; 7.30am-late; ) A Cuba St institution for caffeine-craving, alternative types. Eggs any-which-way, pizza and splendid salads are cranked out of the itsy kitchen, along with Welly’s best milkshakes. Revolutionary memorabilia adorns the walls of the funky interior; decent outdoor areas too. A super-busy crew copes with the chaos admirably.

Museum Hotel (Click here   );

OLIVER STREWE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©;

NIKAU GALLERY CAFE Cafe $$

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(City Gallery, Civic Sq; lunch $14-25; 7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat; ) An airy affair at the sophisticated end of the cafe scene, Nikau consistently dishes up some of the simplest but most delightful fare in town. Refreshing aperitifs, legendary kedgeree and sage eggs, divine sweets, and a sunny courtyard.

LOGAN BROWN Modern Nz $$$

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Waiter at Fidel's cafe (Click here   )

HAUKE DRESSLER/GETTY IMAGES ©

( 04-801 5114; www.loganbrown.co.nz; 192 Cuba St; mains $39-48; noon-2pm Mon-Sat, 5.30pm-late Mon-Sun) Located in a 1920s banking chamber, Logan Brown oozes class without being pretentious or overly formal. Believe the hype, sample the lamb two ways, snapper and paua, and peruse the epic wine list. The pretheatre menu ($39.50) is a fine way of indulging without cleaning out your account. Bookings recommended.

CHOW Fusion $$

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(45 Tory St; small plates $7-17, mains $15-24; noon-midnight; ) Home of the legendary blue-cheese-and-peanut wonton, Chow is a stylish pan-Asian restaurant-cum-bar: a must-visit for people who love exciting food in sociable surroundings, accompanied by the odd cocktail. Daily deals, free wi-fi, and the fun Library bar through the back door.

MIDNIGHT ESPRESSO Cafe $

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(178 Cuba St; meals $8-17; 7.30am-late Mon-Fri, 8am-late Sat & Sun; ) The city’s original hip cafe, with food that’s hearty, tasty and inexpensive – heavy on the wholesome and vegetarian. Sitting in the window with Havana coffee and cake is the quintessential Wellington cafe experience.

SWEET MOTHER’S KITCHEN American $

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(5 Courtenay Pl; mains $10-27; 8am-late; ) Perpetually full, predominantly with young cool cats, Sweet Mother’s serves dubious takes on the Deep South, such as burritos, nachos, po’ boys and jambalaya. Key lime pie is about as authentic as it gets. It’s cheap, cute, has craft beer and good sun.

SHINOBI SUSHI LOUNGE Sushi $$

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(43 Vivian St; sushi plates $19-35, California rolls $7-19; noon-2pm Tue-Fri, 5.30-10pm Tue-Sun) Super-fresh fish, Japanese training and Kiwi flair combine to create the most exciting sushi joint in town, while seriously good cocktails and a quality drinks list keeps things lubricated.

Drinking

MIGHTY MIGHTY Bar

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(104 Cuba St; 4pm-late Wed-Sat) This is the hippest of the capital’s drinking and music venues. Inside-a-pinball-machine decor, pink velvet curtains, kitsch gewgaws and Wellington’s best barmaid make this an essential port of call for those wanting to tilt or bang a bumper. A colourful slice of NZ bar life.

HASHIGO ZAKE Craft Beer

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(www.hashigozake.co.nz; 25 Taranaki St) The headquarters of the capital’s underground beer movement, this brick-walled basement bar pours only quality craft brews to a wide range of hopheads. An oft-changing selection of a dozen beers on tap is reinforced by a united nations of around 140 beers by the bottle.

HAVANA Bar

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(www.havanabar.co.nz; 32 Wigan St; 11am-late Mon-Fri, 3pm-late Sat) Much like the proverbial light under a bushel, one of Welly’s most seductive bars is hidden away down a side street you’ll never stumble across. You’ll find it in two adjacent heritage cottages, where you can eat tapas, drink your way along the top shelf, then chinwag, smoke, flirt and dance until very near dawn.

MALTHOUSE Craft Beer

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(www.themalthouse.co.nz; 48 Courtenay Pl; 3pm-late Sun-Thu, noon-3am Fri & Sat) At last count there were 150 reasons to drink at this, the capital’s original craft-beer bar. Savvy staff will recommend brews from an epic list that showcases beers from NZ and around the globe. Enquire about new arrivals, and the aged selection of brews if you’re a well-heeled beer geek.

SOUTHERN CROSS Pub

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(www.thecross.co.nz; 35 Abel Smith St; 9am-late) Welly’s most stylish crowd-pleasing pub combines a laid-back restaurant, lively bar, regular music, dance floor, pool table, the best garden bar in town and a welcoming attitude to children. Independent beer on tap and a good bowl of chips. Choice!

ANCESTRAL Bar

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(www.ancestral.co.nz; 31 Courtenay Pl; 11am-late Tue-Fri, 3pm-late Mon & Sat) Asian-infused Ancestral has broken new ground in the Wellington bar scene. Designed by the architects responsible for the legendary Matterhorn, no effort has been spared to get every line and level right – lighting, music, shirt collars and cocktails. Whisky and cigars in the stripped and pimped garden bar are a highlight, but there’s heaps to please here, including sake and the smoke, spark and crackle of the yakitori grill ($4 to $17).

MATTERHORN Bar

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(www.matterhorn.co.nz; 106 Cuba St; 3pm-late Mon-Fri, 10am-late Sat & Sun) We’re still gettin’ the Horn, despite a change of ownership and some stiff competition. A perennially popular joint with three distinct but equally pleasing areas (long bar, dining room and garden bar), the Matterhorn still honours its patrons with reputable food (tapas from midafternoon, dinner daily, brunch weekends), solid service and regular live music.

If You Like...

Drinking in Wellington

If you like Mighty Mighty, we think you’ll appreciate the boozy offerings of these other Wellington bars.

1 VIVO

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(www.vivowinebar.co.nz; 19 Edward St; 3pm-late Mon-Fri, 5pm-late Sat) A tomelike list of approximately 600 wines plus excellent tapas-style food.

2 HUMMINGBIRD

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(www.hummingbird.net.nz; 22 Courtenay Pl; 3pm-late Mon-Fri, 10am-late Sat & Sun) Sophisticated Hummingbird is usually packed – both inside in the intimate, stylish dining room–bar, and outside on street-side tables. Croony music; regular live jazz.

3 GOOD LUCK

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(basement, 126 Cuba St; 5pm-late Tue-Sun) Cuba St’s Chinese opium den, minus the opium. This is a slickly run, sultry basement bar playing fresh hip-hop and electronica.

4 LIBRARY

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(53 Courtenay Pl; 5pm-late Mon-Thu, 4pm-late Fri-Sun) Velveteen booths, books, booze and board games. A real page-turner, with cocktails you won’t want to put down.

5 HAWTHORN LOUNGE

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(82 Tory St; 6pm-late Tue-Sat) Akin to a 1920s speakeasy, complete with waistcoats and wide-brimmed fedoras.

Entertainment

Live Music & Clubs

SAN FRANCISCO BATH HOUSE Live Music

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(www.sfbh.co.nz; 171 Cuba St; 4pm-late Tue-Sat) Wellington’s best midsized live-music venue, playing host to the cream of NZ artists, as well as quality acts from abroad. Somewhat debauched balcony action, five deep at the bar, but otherwise well run and lots of fun when the floor starts bouncing.

BODEGA Live Music

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(www.bodega.co.nz; 101 Ghuznee St; 4pm-late) A trailblazer of the city’s modern live-music scene, and still considered an institution despite its move from a derelict heritage building to a concrete cavern. ‘The Bodge’ offers a full and varied program of gigs in a pleasant space with a respectable dance floor.

SANDWICHES Club

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(www.sandwiches.co.nz; 8 Kent Tce; 4pm-late Wed-Sat) Get yourself a slice of NZ’s electronic artists and DJs, regular multiflavoured international acts and a great sound system. Gritty club run by a dedicated team that isn’t just in it for the bread.

Theatres

BATS Theatre

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( 04-802 4175; www.bats.co.nz; 1 Kent Tce) Wildly alternative BATS presents cutting-edge and experimental NZ theatre – varied, cheap and intimate.

CIRCA Theatre

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( 04-801 7992; www.circa.co.nz; 1 Taranaki St) Circa’s main auditorium seats 240 people and its studio seats 100. Cheap tickets are available for preview shows, and there are also standby tickets available an hour before the show (which could be anything from pantomime to international comedy).

Cinemas

EMBASSY THEATRE Cinema

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( 04-384 7657; www.deluxe.co.nz; 10 Kent Tce; from adult/child $15.50/12.50) Wellywood’s cinema mothership, built in the 1920s. Screens mainstream films; bars and cafe on-site.

PARAMOUNT Cinema

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( 04-384 4080; www.paramount.co.nz; 25 Courtenay Pl; from adult/child $13/9; noon-midnight) A lovely old complex screening largely art-house, documentary and foreign flicks.

Drinks at Havana (Click here   )

OLIVER STREWE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Shopping

STARFISH Clothing

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(128 Willis St) Wellingtonian fashionistas’ favourite treat. Beautiful clothing, sustainably made.

KURA Arts & Crafts

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(19 Allen St) Contemporary indigenous art: painting, ceramics, jewellery and sculpture.

KIRKCALDIE & STAINS Department Store

(165-177 Lambton Quay) NZ’s answer to Bloomingdale’s or Harrods, established in 1863. Bring your travels documents with you for tax-free bargains.

Information

Medical Services

Wellington Accident & Urgent Medical Centre ( 04-384 4944; 17 Adelaide Rd, Newtown; 8am-11pm) No appointment necessary; also home to the after-hours pharmacy.

Wellington Hospital ( 04-385 5999; www.ccdhb.org.nz; Riddiford St, Newtown; 24hr) One kilometre south of the city centre.

Tourist Information

DOC Visitor Centre (Department of Conservation; 04-384 7770; www.doc.govt.nz; 18 Manners St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3.30pm Sat) Bookings, passes and information for national and local walks, parks, huts and camping, plus permits for Kapiti Island.

Wellington i-SITE ( 04-802 4860; www.wellingtonnz.com; Civic Sq, cnr Wakefield & Victoria Sts; 8.30am-5pm) Staff book almost everything, and cheerfully distribute Wellington’s Official Visitor Guide, other maps and walking guides. Internet access and cafe.

Getting There & Away

Air

Wellington Airport (WLG; 04-385 5100; www.wellington-airport.co.nz; Stewart Duff Dr, Rongotai; 4am-1.30am) has touch-screen information kiosks in the luggage hall.

Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000, 04-474 8950; www.airnewzealand.co.nz; cnr Lambton Quay & Grey St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) offers flights between Wellington and most domestic centres, including Auckland (from $69), Christchurch (from $59), Queenstown (from $89) and Nelson (from $79).

Jetstar ( 0800 800 995; www.jetstar.com) flies between Wellington and Auckland (tickets from $49), Christchurch (from $49) and Queenstown (from $59).

Soundsair ( 0800 505 005, 03-520 3080; www.soundsair.com) flies between Wellington and Picton up to eight times daily (from $90), as well as Nelson (from $107) and Blenheim (from $90).

Interislander ferry, Wellington

RICHARD CUMMINS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Air2there ( 0800 777 000, 04-904 5130; www.air2there.com) flies between Wellington and Blenheim ($99), and from Kapiti Coast Airport (www.kapitiairport.co.nz; Toru Rd, Paraparaumu Beach) to Blenheim ($125) and Nelson ($135).

Boat

There are two options for crossing the strait between Wellington and Picton: Bluebridge and the Interislander.

Bluebridge is based at Waterloo Quay, opposite the Wellington train station. The Interislander terminal is about 2km northeast of the city centre; a shuttle bus ($2) runs to the Interislander from platform 9 at Wellington train station (where long-distance buses also depart). It also meets arriving ferries, returning passengers to platform 9.

Bluebridge Ferries ( 04-471 6188, 0800 844 844; www.bluebridge.co.nz; 50 Waterloo Quay; adult/child from $51/26) Crossing takes three hours 20 minutes; up to four sailings in each direction daily. Cars and campervans up to 5.5m from $118; motorbikes $51; bicycles $10.

Interislander ( 04-498 3302, 0800 802 802; www.interislander.co.nz; Aotea Quay; adult/child from $55/28) Crossing takes three hours 10 minutes; up to five sailings in each direction daily. Cars are priced from $118; campervans (up to 5.5m) from $133; motorbikes from $56; bicycles $15.

Bus

InterCity ( 04-385 0520; www.intercity.co.nz) and Newmans ( 04-385 0521; www.newmanscoach.co.nz) buses depart from platform 9 at the train station.

Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) runs north from Wellington to all major North Island destinations. Buses depart from opposite the Amora Hotel in Wakefield St and Bunny St opposite the train station.

Train

Wellington train station has six ticket windows ( 0800 801 700; 6.30am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 1pm Fri & Sat, to 3pm Sun), two selling tickets for Tranz Scenic trains, Interislander ferries and InterCity and Newmans coaches; the other four ticketing local/regional Tranz Metro ( 0800 801 700; www.tranzmetro.co.nz) trains (Johnsonville, Melling, Hutt Valley, Paraparaumu and Wairarapa lines).

Long-haul Tranz Scenic ( 0800 872 467; www.tranzscenic.co.nz) routes include the daily Overlander between Wellington and Auckland (from $79, 12 hours, Thursday to Sunday May to September); and the Capital Connection between Wellington and Palmerston North (from $26, two hours, one daily Monday to Friday).

Getting Around

Metlink ( 0800 801 700; www.metlink.org.nz) is the one-stop shop for Wellington’s regional bus, train and harbour ferry networks all detailed below.

To & From Airport

Super Shuttle ( 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz; 1/2 passengers $16/21; 24hr) provides a door-to-door minibus service between the city and airport, 8km southeast of the city.

The Airport Flyer ( 0800 801 700; www.metlink.co.nz; airport–city per adult/child $8.50/5) bus runs between the airport, Wellington and the Hutt Valley. Buses run from around 6am to 9.30pm.

A taxi between the city centre and airport costs around $30.

Bus

Frequent and efficient bus services cover the whole Wellington region and run between approximately 6am and 11.30pm. Major bus terminals are at the Wellington train station, and on Courtenay Pl near the Cambridge Tce intersection. Fares are determined by zones: a trip across the city centre (Zone 1) costs $2, and all the way up the coast to Otaki (Zone 13) costs $16.50.

Metlink also runs the After Midnight bus service, departing from two convenient city stops (Courtenay Pl and Cuba St) between midnight and 4.30am Saturday and Sunday on a number of routes to the outer suburbs. Fares range from $6 to $12, depending on how far away your bed is.

Taxi

Green Cabs ( 0508 447 336)

Wellington Combined Taxis ( 04-384 444)

Train

Tranz Metro operates four train routes running through Wellington’s suburbs to regional destinations. Trains run frequently from around 6am to 11pm, departing Wellington train station. The routes: Johnsonville via Ngaio and Khandallah; Waikanae via Porirua, Plimmerton and Paekakariki; Melling via Petone; the Hutt Valley via Waterloo to Upper Hutt. A train service also connects with the Wairarapa, calling at Featherston, Carterton and Masterton. Standard fares from Wellington to the ends of the five lines range from $4.50 to $17.50.

KAPITI COAST

With wide, crowd-free beaches, the Kapiti Coast acts as a summer playground and suburban extension for Wellingtonians. The region takes its moniker from Kapiti Island, a bird and marine sanctuary 5km offshore from Paraparaumu.

Comprehensive visitor information can be found at Paraparaumu visitor information centre ( 04-298 8195; www.naturecoast.co.nz; Coastlands, Rimu Rd; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun).

Getting There & Around

Getting here from Wellington is a breeze: just track north on SH1. By car, it’s about a 30-minute drive to Paekakariki, and around 45 minutes to Paraparaumui, much of it by motorway.

Air

Kapiti Coast Airport in Paraparumu was expanded in 2011, and is a regular destination for Air2there ( 0800 777 000; www.air2there.com), with daily flights to Blenheim and Nelson, and Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz), which flies direct to Auckland.

Bus

InterCity (www.intercity.co.nz) stops at major Kapiti Coast towns on its services between Wellington and the north.

The daily services into/out of Wellington run by White Star Express ( 04-478 4734, 0800 465 622; www.whitestarbus.co.nz) and Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) also stop at major Kapiti Coast towns.

Train

Tranz Metro ( 0800 801 700; www.tranzmetro.co.nz) commuter trains between Wellington and the coast are easier and more frequent than buses.

Tranz Scenic ( 0800 872 467; www.tranzscenic.co.nz) has long-distance Overlander trains connecting Wellington and Auckland stopping at Paraparaumu, while the weekday-only, peak-hour Capital Connection, travelling to Wellington in the morning and back to Palmerston North in the evening, stops at Paraparaumu, Waikanae and Otaki.

Paekakariki

Paekakariki is a little seaside village stretched along a black-sand beach, serviced by a train station and passed by the highway to Wellington, 41km to the south.

Sights & Activities

QUEEN ELIZABETH PARK Park

(SH1; gates open 8am-8pm) This rambling but rather beautiful 650-hectare beachside park offers plenty of opportunities for swimming, walking, cycling and picnicking, as well as being the location of the Stables on the Park and Tramway Museum.

TRAMWAY MUSEUM Museum

(www.wellingtontrams.org.nz; MacKay’s Crossing entrance, Queen Elizabeth Park; admission by donation, all-day tram rides adult/child/family $8/4/20; museum 10am-4.30pm daily, trams 11am-4.30pm Sat & Sun, daily 26 Dec-late Jan) A glimpse into historic Wellington by way of restored wooden trams and museum displays inside their big garage. A 2km track curls through Queen Elizabeth Park down to the beach. On-site ice-cream kiosk.

Sleeping & Eating

HILLTOP HIDEAWAY Guesthouse $

( 04-902 5967; www.wellingtonbeachbackpackers.co.nz; 11 Wellington Rd; d $80; ) Formerly Paekakariki Backpackers, Peter and Denise now offer two double en-suite rooms in their hilltop home, one with sea and sunset views. The great-value rooms are homely but elegant, much like the hosts themselves.

FINN’S Hotel $$

( 04-292 8081; www.finnshotel.co.nz; 2 Beach Rd; mains$17-27; ) Finn’s is the flashy beige suit of the cutesy railway village, but redeems itself with spacious rooms (doubles $125 to $135), good-value meals and independent beer on tap. The hush glass keeps the highway at bay.

Paraparaumu

Low-key Paraparaumu is the principal town on the Kapiti Coast, and a suburban satellite of Wellington. The rough-and-tumble beach is the coast’s most developed, sustaining cafes, motels and takeaway joints. Boat trips to Kapiti Island set sail from here.

Sights & Activities

SOUTHWARD CAR MUSEUM Museum

(www.southwardcarmuseum.co.nz; Otaihanga Rd; adult/child $12/3; 9am-4.30pm) This museum has one of Australasia’s largest collections of antique and unusual cars. Check out the DeLorean and the 1950 gangster Cadillac.

Kereru, New Zealand's native pigeon, Kapiti Island nature reserve

PAUL KENNEDY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

PARAPARAUMU BEACH GOLF CLUB Golf

( 04-902 8200; www.paraparaumubeachgolfclub.co.nz; 376 Kapiti Rd; green fees $150; 7.30am-dusk) This challenging and beautiful links course is ranked among NZ’s best. It has hosted the NZ Open 12 times and tamed Tiger in 2002. Visitors are welcome: call for tee times, or book online.

Eating

SOPRANO RISTORANTE Italian $$

( 04-298 8892; 7 Seaview Rd; mains $25-30; 6pm-late Mon-Sat) A welcoming family-run joint with the liveliest evening atmosphere at the beach township. No-nonsense, affordable food and wine in a homely environment – bella !

Detour:

New Zealand Rugby Museum

Fans of the oval ball holler about the New Zealand Rugby Museum ( 06-358 6947; www.rugbymuseum.co.nz; 326 Main St; adult/child/family $12.50/5/30; 10am-5pm) in otherwise missable Palmerston North, 90km north of Paraparaumu. The museum is an amazing new space overflowing with rugby paraphernalia, from a 1905 All Blacks jumper to a scrum machine and the actual whistle used to start the first game of every Rugby World Cup. Of course, NZ hosted the 2011 Rugby World Cup and beat France 7-8 in the final: don’t expect anyone here to stop talking about it until 2015...

Kapiti Island

Kapiti Island is the coastline’s dominant feature, a 10km by 2km slice, which since 1897 has been a protected reserve. It’s largely predator-free, allowing a remarkable range and number of birds – including many species that are now rare or extinct on the mainland – to thrive on the island.

The island is open to visitors, limited to 86 people per day (or you can stay overnight with Kapiti Island Nature Tours), and it’s essential that you book and obtain a permit (adult/child $11/5) online (www.doc.govt.nz), in person at Wellington’s DOC visitor centre (Click here), or via email (wellingtonvc@doc.govt.nz).

Transport is booked separately from the permit (arrange your permit before your boat trip). Two commercial operators are licensed to take visitors to the island, both running to/from Paraparaumu Beach (which can be reached by train).

Make all your bookings in advance; more information can be found in DOC’s Kapiti Island Nature Reserve brochure.

The Barrett and Clark whanau (family), who have a long-standing connection to the island, run Kapiti Island Nature Tours & Lodge ( 06-362 6606; www.kapitiislandnaturetours.co.nz; per person incl three meals $250-330), and offer very special nature tours that touch on the birds (in incredible range and number), seal colony, history and Maori traditions.

Both offering boat transport to the island a couple of times a day are Kapiti Marine Charter ( 04-297 2585, 0800 433 779; www.kapitimarinecharter.co.nz; adult/child $60/35) and Kapiti Tours ( 04-237 7965, 0800 527 484; www.kapititours.co.nz; adult/child $60/35).

THE WAIRARAPA

The Wairarapa is the large slab of land east and northeast of Wellington, beyond the craggy Tararua and Rimutaka Ranges. Named after Lake Wairarapa (Shimmering Waters), a shallow 8000-hectare lake, the region has traditionally been a frenzied hotbed of sheep farming. More recently, wineries have sprung up, accompanied by a vigorous foodie culture – around Martinborough, most famously – which has turned the region into a decadent weekend retreat.

Getting There & Around

From Wellington, Tranz Metro ( 0800 801 700; www.tranzmetro.co.nz) commuter trains run to Masterton ($17.50, five or six daily on weekdays, two daily on weekends), calling at seven Wairarapa stations including Featherston and Carterton.

Martinborough

The sweetest visitor spot in the Wairarapa, Martinborough is a pretty town with a leafy town square and some charming old buildings, surrounded by a patchwork of pasture and a pinstripe of grapevines.

The town’s cultural hub is arguably Circus ( 06-306 9442; www.circus.net.nz; 34 Jellicoe St; adult/child $15/10, mains $20-28; 4pm-late Wed-Mon), a stylish art-house cinema (movieline 056-306 9434) where you can watch the cream of contemporary movies in a a modern, microsize complex. Reasonably priced food includes bar snacks, pizza, mains with plenty of seasonal veg, and gelato.

OLIVER STREWE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Wairarapa Wine Country

Wairarapa’s wineries thrive on visitors; Martinborough’s 20-odd are particularly welcoming with well-oiled cellar doors, and noteworthy food served in some gorgeous gardens and courtyards. The Wairarapa Wine Trail Map (available from the i-SITE and many other locations) will aid your navigations.

An excellent place to sample and purchase many wines, and for advice on local cellar doors, is the Martinborough Wine Centre (www.martinboroughwinecentre.co.nz; 6 Kitchener St; 10am-5pm), which also sells olive oils, books, clothing and art.

RECOMMENDED WINERIES

Ata Rangi (www.atarangi.co.nz; 14 Puruatanga Rd; 1-3pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun) One of the region’s pioneering winemakers. Great drops across the board and cute cellar door.

Coney (www.coneywines.co.nz; Dry River Rd; 11am-4pm Fri-Sun) Friendly, operatic tastings and lovely restaurant.

Margrain (www.margrainvineyard.co.nz; cnr Ponatahi & Huangarua Rds; 11am-5pm Fri-Sun) Pretty winery and site of the Taste Vin Café, a good pit stop overlooking the vines.

Vynfields (www.vynfields.com; 22 Omarere Rd; 11am-4pm) Five-star, savoury pinot noir and a lush lawn on which to enjoy a platter. Organic/biodynamic wines.

TOURS

Hammond’s Scenic Tours ( 04-472 0869; www.wellingtonsightseeingtours.com; full-day tour adult/child $200/100) Full-day winery tours including gourmet lunch.

Tranzit Tours ( 0800 471 227, 06-370 6600; www.tranzittours.co.nz; from $142) Four vineyards and a platter lunch at Martinborough’s Village Café.

Martinborough Wine Centre ( 06-306 9040; www.martinboroughwinecentre.co.nz; 6 Kitchener St; half-day $25, full day $35) Morning, afternoon or all-day bicycle rentals.

Sleeping & Eating

AYLSTONE RETREAT Boutique Hotel $$$

( 06-306 9505; www.aylstone.co.nz; 19 Huangarua Rd; d incl breakfast $230-260; ) Set among the vines on the edge of the village, this elegant retreat is a winning spot for the romantically inclined. Six en-suite rooms exude a lightly floral, French-provincial charm, and share a pretty posh reading room. The on-site bistro does a magnificent croissant, and the whole shebang is surrounded by micromansion garden sporting lawns, boxed hedges and chichi furniture.

CLAREMONT Motel $$

( 06-306 9162, 0800 809 162; www.theclaremont.co.nz; 38 Regent St; d $130-158, 4-person apt $280; ) A classy accommodation enclave off Jellicoe St, the Claremont has two-storey, self-contained units in great nick, modern studios with spa baths, and sparkling two-bedroom apartments, all at reasonable rates (even cheaper in winter and/or midweek).

TRIO CAFÉ AT CONEY WINERY Modern Nz $$

( 06-306 8345; www.coneywines.co.nz; Dry River Rd; snacks $12, mains $22-24; noon-3pm Sat & Sun; ) Wine and dine in a courtyard of gorgeous white roses or in the light and airy dining room. The great-value food is sophisticated, fresh and delicious, and all made from scratch.

Information

The Martinborough i-SITE ( 06-306 5010; www.wairarapanz.com; 18 Kitchener St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) is small, helpful and cheery.

Detour:

Cape Palliser

The Wairarapa coast south of Martinborough around Palliser Bay and Cape Palliser is remote and sparsely populated. The bendy road to the Cape is stupendously scenic: a big ocean and black-sand beaches on one side; barren hills and sheer cliffs on the other.

Standing like giant organ pipes in the Putangirua Scenic Reserve are the Putangirua Pinnacles, formed by rain washing silt and sand away and exposing the underlying bedrock. Accessible by a track near the car park on Cape Palliser Rd, it’s an easy three-hour return walk along a streambed to the pinnacles, or take the 3½-hour loop track past hills and coastal viewpoints.

Further south is the wind-worn fishing village Ngawi. The first things you’ll notice here are the rusty bulldozers on the beach, used to drag fishing boats ashore. Next stop is the malodorous seal colony, the North Island’s largest breeding area.

Get your thighs thumping on the steep, 250-step (or is it 249?) climb to Cape Palliser Lighthouse, from where there are yet more amazing coastal views.

HAWKE’S BAY

Hawke Bay, the body of water that stretches from the Mahia Peninsula to Cape Kidnappers, looks like it’s been bitten out of the North Island’s eastern flank.

The southern edge of the bay is a travel-channel come to life – food, wine and architecture are the shared obsessions.

Hawke’s Bay

Sights

1 Bluff Hill Lookout C2

2 National Aquarium of New Zealand C2

3  National Tobacco Company Building C2

4 Te Mata Peak Lookout C4

5  Te Mata Trust Park C4

Wineries

6 Crab Farm Winery B1

7  Mission Estate B2

8  Sileni Estates A4

Sleeping

9  Rocks Motorlodge B2

Eating

10  Diva B4

11  Elephant Hill C3

12  Terrôir at Craggy Range C4

13  Vidal B4

Napier

The Napier of today is the silver lining of the dark cloud that was one of NZ’s worst natural disasters. Rebuilt after the deadly 1931 earthquake in the popular styles of the time, the city retains a unique concentration of art-deco buildings to which architecture obsessives flock from all over the world.

Sights

Napier

Sights

1  Daily Telegraph Building C2

2  Sunken Gardens C3

Activities, Courses & Tours

3  Fishbike C1

Sleeping

4 Masonic Hotel C2

5  Sea Breeze C3

6  Seaview Lodge B&B C1

Eating

7 Groove Kitchen Espresso B2

8 Restaurant Indonesia C4

Architecture

The 1931 quake demolished most of Napier’s brick buildings. Frantic reconstruction between 1931 and 1933 caught architects in the throes of global art-deco mania.

The place to start your art-deco exploration is the home of the Art Deco Trust, the Deco Centre (www.artdeconapier.com; 163 Tennyson St; 9am-5pm) opposite colourful Clive Sq. Its one-hour guided deco walk ($16) departs the i-SITE daily at 10am; the two-hour version ($21) leaves the Centre at 2pm daily. The Daily Telegraph Building (49 Tennyson St) is one of the stars of the show, with superb zigzags, fountain shapes and ziggurat aesthetic.

Around the shore at Ahuriri, the National Tobacco Company Building (cnr Bridge & Ossian Sts) is arguably the region’s deco masterpiece.

DAVID WALL/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Hawke’s Bay Wineries

Once upon a time this district was most famous for its orchards. Today it’s vines that have top billing, with Hawke’s Bay now NZ’s second-largest wine-producing region.

BEST WINING & DINING

Vidal ( 06-872 7440; www.vidal.co.nz; 913 St Aubyn St, Hastings; lunch mains $20-30, dinner mains $28-39; 11.30am-late) The warm, wood-lined dining room is a worthy setting for the elegant food.

Elephant Hill ( 06-872 6060; www.elephanthill.co.nz; 86 Clifton Rd, Te Awanga; mains $32-38; 11am-10pm) Ubermodern winery with edgy architecture, and food, wine and service to rival the stunning sea views; we went quackers over the duck tasting plate.

Terrôir at Craggy Range ( 06-873 0143; www.craggyrange.com; 253 Waimarama Rd, Havelock North; mains $37-40; lunch Mon-Sun, dinner Mon-Sat) Housed in a cathedral-like ‘wine barrel’, Terroir is one of the region’s most consistent fine-dining experiences.

A TASTE OF THE TASTINGS

Pick up the Hawke’s Bay Winery Guide, or download it from www.winehawkesbay.co.nz.

Crab Farm ( 06-836 6678; www.crabfarmwinery.co.nz; 511 Main North Rd, Bay View; 10am-5pm Fri-Sun, 6pm-late Fri) Decent, reasonably priced wines and a great cafe.

Mission Estate ( 06-845 9354; www.missionestate.co.nz; 198 Church Rd, Napier) NZ’s oldest winery with beautiful grounds, and a restaurant housed within a restored, historic seminary.

Sileni Estates (www.sileni.co.nz; 2016 Maraekakaho Rd, Bridge Pa) Wine, cheese, chocolate and charming cellar door experience.

Other Sights

MARINE PARADE Street

Napier’s elegant avenue is lined with huge Norfolk pines, and dotted with motels and charming timber villas. Along its length are parks, sunken gardens , a minigolf course, a swimming complex and aquarium.

NATIONAL AQUARIUM OF NEW ZEALAND Aquarium

Offline map Google map

(www.nationalaquarium.co.nz; 546 Marine Pde; adult/child/family $17.40/8.70/41.90; 9am-5pm, feedings 10am & 2pm) Inside this modern complex with its stingray-inspired roof are piranhas, terrapins, eels, kiwi, tuatara and a whole lotta fish.

Tours

ABSOLUTE DE TOURS Guided Tour

( 06-844 8699; www.absolutedetours.co.nz) Runs the ‘Deco Tour’ of the city, Marewa and Bluff Hill ($38, 75 minutes) in conjunction with the Deco Centre, as well as half-day tours of Napier and Hastings ($60).

HAWKE’S BAY SCENIC TOURS Guided Tour

( 06-844 5693; www.hbscenictours.co.nz; tours $50-90) Five tour options including the ‘Napier Whirlwind’ and wineries.

CHRIS MCLENNAN/ALAMY ©

Don't Miss

Cycle the Bay

The expanding network of Hawke’s Bay Cycle Trails offers cycling opportunities from short, city scoots, to hilly, single-track shenanigans.

Napier is cycle-friendly, particularly along Marine Pde where you’ll find Fishbike, renting comfortable bikes including tandems for those willing to risk divorce.

The Hawke’s Bay Cycle Map can be picked up from the i-SITE or www.hawkesbaynz.com/visit/cyclinghawkesbay.

Given the conducive climate, terrain and multitudinous tracks, it’s no surprise that numerous cycle companies pedal their fully geared-up tours around the Bay, including Bike About Tours, Bike D’Vine and On Yer Bike.

NEED TO KNOW

Fishbike (www.fishbike.co.nz; 26 Marine Pde; bike hire from $15; 9am-5pm); Bike About Tours ( 06-845 4836; www.bikeabouttours.co.nz; half to full day $35-60); Bike D’Vine ( 06-833 6697; www.bikedevine.com; adult/child from $45/25); On Yer Bike Offline map Google map ( 06-879 8735; www.onyerbikehb.co.nz; full day without/with lunch $50/60)

Sleeping

SEAVIEW LODGE B&B B&B $$

( 06-835 0202; www.aseaviewlodge.co.nz; 5 Seaview Tce; s $130-140, d $170-180; ) This grand Victorian villa (1890) is queen of all she surveys – which is most of the town and a fair bit of ocean. The elegant rooms have tasteful period elements and either bathroom or en suite. It’s hard to resist a sunset tipple on the veranda, which opens off the relaxing guest lounge.

Marine Parade, Napier

DAVID WALL/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

MASONIC HOTEL Hotel $$

Offline map Google map

( 06-835 8689; www. masonic.co.nz; cnr Herschell & Tennyson Sts; s $85-95, d $95-130, tr $120-140; ) The art-deco Masonic is arguably the heart of town, its accommodation, restaurants and bars taking up most of a city block. Lovers of heritage hotels will likely fall in love with it, especially once they’ve experienced the 1st-floor balcony.

ROCKS MOTORLODGE Motel $$

( 06-835 9626; www.therocksmotel.co.nz; 27 Meeanee Quay, Westshore; units $110-180; ) Located just 80m from the beach, the Rocks has corrugated stylings and woodcarving that have raised the bar on Westshore’s motel row. Interiors are plush with a colour-splash, and some have a spa bath, others a clawfoot.

SEA BREEZE B&B $$

( 06-835 8067; seabreeze.napier@xtra.co.nz; 281 Marine Pde; s $95, d $110-130; ) Inside this Victorian seafront villa are three richly coloured themed rooms (Chinese, Indian and Turkish), decorated with a cornucopia of artefacts and exotic flair.

If You Like...

People-Free Detours

If you like Cape Palliser, we think you’ll like these other windswept lost-worlds around the Lower North Island.

1 MAHIA PENINSULA

Northeast of Napier, the Mahia Peninsula’s eroded hills, Dover-esque cliffs, black-sand beaches and vivid blue seas are the stuff of Van Gogh’s dreams.

2 CASTLEPOINT

On the coast 68km east of Masterton in the Wairarapa is this awesome, end-of-the-world place, with a surf-battered reef, craggy 162m-high Castle Rock, fossil cliffs and rugged walking tracks.

3 CAPE KIDNAPPERS

Visit this far-flung neck of the woods east of Hastings between November and late February and check out the colony of gaggling gannets.

Eating

GROOVE KITCHEN ESPRESSO Cafe $

Offline map Google map

(www.groovekitchen.co.nz; 112 Tennyson St; breakfast & lunch; meals $9-19; ) A sophisticated cafe squeezed into small, groovy space where the turntable spins and the kitchen cranks out A1 brunch along with trendsetting wraps, baps and salads, plus ginger gems your granny would be proud of. Killer coffee. With luck you’ll be around for one of the intermittent Thursday-night gigs.

RESTAURANT INDONESIA Indonesian $$

Offline map Google map

( 06-835 8303; 409 Marine Pde; mains $20-27; dinner Tue-Sun; ) Crammed with Indonesian curios, this intimate space oozes authenticity. Lip-smacking Indo-Dutch rijsttafel smorgasbords are the house speciality (14 dishes, $30 to $36). A romantic option for those inclined. Bookings advisable.

Information

Napier Health Centre ( 06-878 8109; 76 Wellesley Rd; 24hr)

Napier i-SITE ( 06-834 1911; www.napiercity.co.nz; 100 Marine Pde; 9am-5pm; ) Handy and helpful.

Getting There & Away

Air

Hawke’s Bay Airport ( 06-835 3427; www.hawkesbay-airport.co.nz) is 8km north of the city. Air New Zealand ( 06-833 5400; www.airnewzealand.co.nz; cnr Hastings & Station Sts) offers daily direct flights to Auckland (from $89), Wellington (from $79) and Christchurch (from $129).

Bus

InterCity (www.intercity.co.nz) buses can be booked online or at the i-SITE, and depart from the Dalton St Bus Stop. If you’re superorganised you can take advantage of $1 advance fares on Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) on the Auckland–Wellington route via Hastings and Taupo.

Hastings & Around

Positioned at the centre of the Hawke’s Bay fruit bowl, bustling Hastings is the commercial hub of the region, 20km south of Napier. A few kilometres of orchards still separate it from Havelock North, with its prosperous village atmosphere and the towering backdrop of Te Mata Peak.

Sights & Activities

As with Napier, Hastings was similarly devastated by the 1931 earthquake and also boasts some fine art-deco and Spanish Mission buildings, built in the aftermath. Main-street highlights include the Westerman’s Building (cnr Russell & Heretaunga St E), arguably the Bay’s best example of the Spanish Mission style, although there are many other architectural gems if you cast your eye around. The i-SITE stocks the Art Deco Hastings brochure ($2), detailing two self-guided walks of the city centre.

TE MATA PEAK Park

Rising melodramatically from the Heretaunga Plains, Te Mata Peak, 16km south of Havelock North, is part of the 98-hectare Te Mata Trust Park . The road to the 399m summit passes sheep trails, rickety fences and vertigo-inducing stone escarpments cowled in a bleak, lunar-meets-Scottish-Highland atmosphere.

The park’s network of trails offers walks from 30 minutes to two hours. Our pick is the Peak Trail for views, but all are detailed in the Te Mata Trust Park brochure available from local visitor centres.

AIRPLAY PARAGLIDING Paragliding

( 06-845 1977; www.airplay.co.nz) Te Mata Peak is a paragliding hotspot, with voluminous updraughts offering exhilarating whooshes through the air. Airplay Paragliding has tandem paragliding ($140) and full-day beginners’ courses (from $180).

Tours

LONG ISLAND GUIDES Guided Tours

( 06-874 7877; www.longislandtoursnz.com; half day from $180) Customised and personalised tours across a wide range of interests including Maori culture, bushwalks, kayaking, horse riding and, inevitably, food and wine.

EARLY MORNING BALLOONS Ballooning

( 06-879 4229; www.hotair.co.nz; per person $345) Provides inflated views over grapey Hawke’s Bay.

Wine Tours

»Bay Tours & Charters ( 06-845 2736; www.baytours.co.nz)

»Grape Escape ( 0800 100 489; www.grapeescape.net.nz)

»Odyssey NZ ( 0508 639 773; www.odysseynz.com)

Eating

DIVA Modern Nz $$

( 06-877 5149; 1/10 Napier Rd, Havelock North; meals $12-32; lunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) The most happening place in Havelock, Diva offers good-value lunch (from fish and chips to Caesar salad) and a bistro-style menu featuring fresh seafood and seasonal specialities. Eating is divided between flash dining room and groovy bar (snacks from $6), plus lively pavement tables.

Information

Hastings i-SITE ( 06-873 0080; www.hastings.co.nz; cnr Russell St & Heretaunga St E; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, to 3pm Sun; ) Internet access, free maps, trail brochures and bookings.

Getting There & Away

Napier’s Hawke’s Bay Airport ( 06-835 3427; www.hawkesbay-airport.co.nz) is a 20-minute drive away.

The InterCity Bus Stop is on Russell St. Book InterCity ( 06-835 4326; www.intercity.co.nz) and Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) buses online or at the i-SITE.

Marlborough & Nelson

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF LONELY PLANET MAPS

E-reader devices vary in their ability to show our maps. To get the most out of the maps in this guide, use the zoom function on your device. Or, visit http://media.lonelyplanet.com/ebookmaps and grab a PDF download or print out all the maps in this guide.

MARLBOROUGH & NELSON

MARLBOROUGH & NELSON’S HIGHLIGHTS

MARLBOROUGH & NELSON’S BEST…

NEED TO KNOW

MARLBOROUGH & NELSON ITINERARIES

DISCOVER MARLBOROUGH & NELSON

Marlborough Region

Nelson Region

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Marlborough & Nelson

For many travellers, Marlborough and Nelson will be their introduction to what South Islanders refer to as the ‘Mainland’. Having left windy Wellington, and made a white-knuckle crossing of Cook Strait, folk are often surprised to find the sun shining and temperatures up to 10 degrees warmer.

Good pals, these two neighbouring regions have much in common beyond an amenable climate: both boast renowned coastal holiday spots, particularly the Marlborough Sounds and Abel Tasman National Park.

And so it follows that these two regions have an abundance of luscious produce: summer cherries for a start, but most famously the grapes that work their way into the wine glasses of the world’s finest restaurants.

In high season, these regions are popular and deservedly so. Plan ahead and be prepared to jostle for your gelato with Kiwi holidaymakers.

Queen Charlotte Sound (Click here   )

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Marlborough & Nelson

Marlborough Region

Abel Tasman National Park

Kaikoura

Nelson

Tramping

Seafood

Picton

Ferry on Queen Charlotte Sound (Click here   )

JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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Marlborough & Nelson’s Highlights

Marlborough Region

Marlborough is an incredibly diverse area. Most visitors spend a couple of days in the wine region, with a detour into the Marlborough Sounds… But there’s plenty more to do here, especially if you feel like getting active: sea kayaking, mountain biking and hiking for starters.

Walking the Queen Charlotte Track (Click here   )

DOUGLAS PEEBLES / CORBIS ©

Need to Know

CELLAR DOOR TOUR OPTIONS Minibus, bicycle or self-drive BEST TIME TO VISIT March/April when the grapes are harvested and vines are in their autumn colours For further coverage, Click here

Marlborough Region Don’t Miss List

BY SCOTT MACKENZIE, MARLBOROUGH TOUR GUIDE

1 MARLBOROUGH WINE

Lots of travellers want to check out Cloudy Bay (Click here), but it’s also worthwhile visiting a few little boutique wineries where you can taste wines with the owner and the winemaker (often it’s the same person!). Sauvignon blanc is what Marlborough is famous for, but other wines to try here include pinot gris, gewürztraminer and chardonnay.

MICAH WRIGHT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

2 BEYOND THE VINES

The Marlborough region also grows superb hops: you can taste the final product at Blenheim’s Moa Brewery and Renaissance Brewery (Click here). Around the wine region there are also opportunities to try schnapps, handmade chocolates, olive oil and local cheeses.

3 MARLBOROUGH FARMERS’ MARKET

Blenheim’s Marlborough Farmers’ Market (www.marketground.co.nz/fmnzmfm) is a great way to spend a Sunday morning. It’s a top spot for brunch and coffee, or try some wine, beer or cheese tastings. There’s usually live music, and you can chat with the people who actually grow and make the produce.

4 MARLBOROUGH SOUNDS

About 25 minutes’ drive from the wine region are the Marlborough Sounds (Click here). This is the place to visit a greenshell mussel farm: visitors can get an overview of Sounds history and an insight into why mussels grow so well here. Slurp down a few fresh ones with a glass of chilled sauvignon blanc.

5 QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

The Queen Charlotte Track (Click here) is the region’s number-one walkway. Check-in with the Picton tour guides for guided- and independent-walk info, plus mountain biking, kayaking and transport options. Some guided walks offer local food and wine and excellent accommodation: visitors can tackle the track in real comfort.

KIERAN SCOTT / GETTY IMAGES ©

Abel Tasman National Park

Of all New Zealand’s national parks, Abel Tasman is the most accessible, offering bush-meets-sea landscapes, beautiful golden-sand beaches and amazingly clear water. The region also lays claim to NZ’s highest sunshine hours, and has very settled weather, protected on all sides by mountains.

RADIUS IMAGES / CORBIS ©

Need to Know

BEST PHOTO OP Early morning on the Marahau rocks BEST TIME TO VISIT March/April: the water is still warm and there are fewer holidaying New Zealanders For further coverage, Click here

Abel Tasman National Park Don’t Miss List

BY STU HOUSTON, DEPARTMENT OF CONSERVATION

1 SEA KAYAKING

The best way to see the park is by water, kayaking up the coastline – you see the beaches, the forests, mountains and rocks. Most people do kayaking as a day trip, but a three-day trip will give you a real feel for the area. You can do a quarter-day or half-day, but it’s hard to get a full sense of the landscape on such a short trip. Ask the local kayak operators (Click here) about options: walk a few kilometres, paddle a few…

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

2 TRAMP THE COAST TRACK

The Abel Tasman is one of those parks where the further into it you go, the better it gets. There are four huts on the Abel Tasman Coast Track (Click here) and 19 campsites – the camp spots are primo, with some on the beach, right beside the sea. Most people start at Marahau and head north, tramp for three days and then get a water taxi out at the end.

3 WILDLIFE

There’s a huge seal population here and many little blue penguins within the park (if you don’t see them, you’ll hear them: they make a lot of noise at night!). We get quite a lot of dolphins travelling through and we see orcas two or three times a year. There are wood pigeons, tuis and bellbirds, too. A lot of the streams have native freshwater fish – kokopu, inanga – which trout and salmon have forced out in other areas.

4 TAKE A DIP

Swimming here is awesome! There’s no glacial run-off and it’s one of the few places in the country without any surf. In Marahau, where I live, the water temperature is around 21°C in summer (even down in Dunedin, which is not much further south, it’s around 16°C).

MICAH WRIGHT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Kaikoura Wildlife

Kaikoura (Click here) is on the main migratory path for 14 different species of whale and dolphin: it’s a kind of underwater highway where you can watch whales year-round. From June to August sperm whales come close to the land to feed; other regulars include humpback whales on their annual migration to Australia. Back on dry land there are seals and birds to ogle.

Fur seals, Kaikoura

SIMON GREENWOOD / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Nelson

Anyone here into the arts, good coffee, seafood restaurants, Victorian architecture and careening around the Great Outdoors? The good people of Nelson (Click here) deliver it all, lashed with equal measures of eco-awareness and urban bohemia. This funky town offers ‘liveability’ to its residents and plenty of enticements to keep the itinerant population (you and me) here for a day or three.

Victorian-era workers’ cottages, Nelson

ROBIN SMITH / GETTY IMAGES ©

Tramping

We hope you’ve packed your hiking boots! This region is the place to propel yourself onto a wonderfully wild walkway, whether it’s a short stretch of the Abel Tasman Coast Track (Click here) or a couple of days stamping along the Queen Charlotte Track (Click here), here’s your chance to get some sun on your skin and some miles into your calf muscles.

Abel Tasman Coast Track

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Seafood

‘I’m on a seafood diet… I see food, then I eat it!’ But seriously, if you’re partial to fish fillets and molluscs, then you’re in the right culinary ocean here. Kaikoura (Click here) is the place to try crayfish (‘Kai’ is Maori for food, and ‘koura’ means crayfish), while the Marlborough Sounds (Click here) area is famous for greenshell mussels.

Greenshell mussels

FULLER PHOTOGRAPHY / ALAMY ©

Picton

No doubt, Picton (Click here) is underrated. Too many people just jump on/off the ferry here and continue on to wherever they’re bound… But why not take a day to chill out? Picton is a photogenic wee town on one of the prettiest waterways you could imagine, with plenty of quality places to eat, sleep and drink.

Picton port

MICAH WRIGHT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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Marlborough & Nelson’s Best…

NZ Wildlife, Up Close

»Kaikoura whales (Click here) Famous boat and aerial whale-watching tours off the Kaikoura coast

»Marlborough Sounds dolphins See them chase the North Island ferry or get closer on a guided tour (Click here)

»Abel Tasman National Park seals (Click here) A plethora of grunting mammals

»Albatross encounters (Click here) Check out the big birds on a tour from Kaikoura

Scenic Highways & Byways

»Picton–Havelock Wiggly tarmac along the Marlborough Sounds’ southern reaches

»Kaikoura–Blenheim Route 1 passes surf beaches and lonesome coastlines

»Rapaura Road The Marlborough wine region’s vine-lined ‘Golden Mile’

»Motueka–Takaka Over the hills south of Abel Tasman National Park

Places to Get Wet

»Abel Tasman National Park (Click here) Kayak around this spectacular coastline

»Marahau (Click here) Clear, clean waters on the doorstep of Abel Tasman National Park

»Tahunanui Beach People-filled sandy stretch 5km south of Nelson

»Queen Charlotte Track (Click here) Dunk a toe in the chilly, mirror-flat Marlborough Sounds

Whitebait fritters;

PAUL KENNEDY /LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Excuses for a Drink

»Marlborough Wine Region (Click here) We all know why you’re here…now get sipping!

»Blenheim Breweries (Click here) Sidestep the sav blanc with some microbrewed delights

»Nocturnal Nelson (Click here) When the sun goes down Nelson’s beery bars light up

»Seafest Kaikoura (Click here) If you’re here in October, don’t miss this sensational seaside shindig

Tasman National Park (Click here   ) Golden Bay, Abel

MICAH WRIGHT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © /LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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Need to Know

ADVANCE PLANNING

»One month before Is it summertime? Book your kayak/hike in Abel Tasman National Park pronto, plus tickets on the Coastal Pacific train between Picton and Christchurch via Kaikoura

»Two weeks before Book a ferry to/from Wellington on the North Island, and accommodation across the region

»One week before Book a Marlborough Wine Region winery tour and a whale-watching expedition in Kaikoura

RESOURCES

»Swing into the local i-SITE visitor centres for bookings and information on regional accommodation, transport, wine, food and activities, plus DOC info and contacts:

»Blenheim i-SITE (www.lovemarlborough.co.nz)

»Kaikoura i-SITE (www.kaikoura.co.nz)

»Nelson i-SITE (www.nelsonnz.com)

»Picton i-SITE (www.destinationmarlborough.com)

GETTING AROUND

»Hike Along the Queen Charlotte Track and Abel Tasman Coast Track

»Kayak Along the craggy, sandy coastline in Abel Tasman National Park

»Minibus Around the Marlborough Wine Region wineries

»Mountain bike Along the Queen Charlotte Track

»Ferry Between Picton (South Island) and Wellington (North Island)

»Train Between Picton and Christchurch (via Kaikoura) on the Coastal Pacific

BE FOREWARNED

»Abel Tasman Coast Track It’s one of NZ’s ‘Great Walks’, and it is indeed great: book your accommodation en route many moons in advance to ensure you’ll have somewhere to rest your weary bones at night

»Queen Charlotte Track Unless you’re camping, it pays to book your QCT accommodation waaay in advance, especially in summer

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Marlborough & Nelson Itineraries

If the name ‘Marlborough’ conjures images of chilled white wine and autumnal vine rows, the region won’t disappoint. But explore further for outstanding tramping, mountain biking, sea kayaking and other activities.

Sunrise over a Marlborough vineyard (Click here   );

ROB BLAKERS /LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

MARLBOROUGH WINE REGION TO KAIKOURA FOODIE MARLBOROUGH

With only three days to explore the top of the South Island, don’t try to do too much. Change down a gear and focus on some of life’s best things: food and wine done the Marlborough way.

First stop is the iconic (1) Marlborough Wine Region where you can spend a day visiting cellar doors, sampling gewürztraminer, pinot gris, chardonnay and, of course, the region’s world-famous sauvignon blanc. If you’re more of a beer boffin, there are some ace microbreweries, too.

Back in the calm, clean backwaters of the (2) Marlborough Sounds, greenshell mussels find it impossible not to breed, and grow in preposterous numbers. You’ll find them on most menus in Picton – a generous bowl steamed with fennel, shallots, white wine and butter will cure whatever ails you.

Head southeast around the coast to (3) Kaikoura for a seafood frenzy. This is the town to try crayfish (aka lobster), paua (abalone), scallops and all manner of fresh ocean fish. Whip out one of those recently acquired bottles and crack into some crustaceans.

Dolphins playing in Queen Charlotte Sound (Click here   )

TIM CLAYTON / CORBIS ©

KAIKOURA TO ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK GET BUSY

Enough sitting around eating crayfish and swilling wine! Time to burn off some calories.

Around the (1) Kaikoura coast, sea kayaking is a great way to see dolphins and seals. To the northwest, another sea-kayaking hotspot is the (2) Marlborough Sounds (plenty of dolphins here too!).

Rather stay on dry land? Saddle-up on a mountain bike and careen along the superbly scenic (3) Queen Charlotte Track. Traditionally a tramping route, water taxis now assist bikers to access remote sections of the track, and give hikers the chance to offload their packs and have them transported to the next campsite. Weightless walking! The hills around Nelson further west are also great for mountain biking.

While you’re in the (4) Nelson area, defy gravity with a paragliding, kiteboarding or hang-gliding lesson, or succumb to its pull with some skydiving. Ask at the i-SITE about local rock-climbing, horse-riding and kayaking operators.

The main lure for trampers around here is the stellar (5) Abel Tasman Coast Track in Abel Tasman National Park. Tailor your adventure to include hiking along the track itself, and kayaking along sections of the spectacular coastline.

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Discover Marlborough & Nelson

At a Glance

»Marlborough Region (Click here) Wine, whale-watching and wilderness from Kaikoura to Blenheim.

»Marlborough Sounds (Click here) Intricate landscape of bays, inlets, headlands and ridgelines.

»Marlborough Wine Region (Click here) Superb sauvignon blanc vineyards and cellar doors behind Blenheim.

»Nelson Region (Click here) National parks, groovy Nelson and boundless sunshine.

Boats moored at Picton

SIMON GREENWOOD / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

MARLBOROUGH REGION

Picton

Half asleep in winter, but hyperactive in summer (with up to eight fully laden ferry arrivals per day), boaty Picton clusters around a deep gulch at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound. It’s the main traveller port for the South Island, and the best place from which to explore the Marlborough Sounds and tackle the Queen Charlotte Track.

Picton

Sights

1 Eco World Aquarium B2

2 Edwin Fox Maritime Museum A2

3 Picton Museum B2

Activities, Courses & Tours

4  Cougar Line B2

5  Dolphin Watch Ecotours B2

6  Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company B2

7  Wilderness Guides A2

Sleeping

8  Gables B&B B3

9  Harbour View Motel C3

10  Jasmine Court B3

Eating

11  Gusto B2

12  Le Café B2

Sights & Activities

EDWIN FOX MARITIME MUSEUM Museum

Offline map Google map

(www.edwinfoxsociety.co.nz; Dunbar Wharf; adult/child $10/4; 9am-5pm) Purportedly the world’s third-oldest wooden ship, the Edwin Fox was built of teak in Calcutta and launched in 1853. During its chequered career it carried troops to the Crimean War, convicts to Australia and immigrants to NZ. This museum has maritime exhibits, including the venerable old dear, which is preserved under cover.

ECO WORLD AQUARIUM Wildlife Centre

Offline map Google map

(www.ecoworldnz.co.nz; Dunbar Wharf; adult/child/family $20/10/55; 10am-8pm Dec-Feb, 10am-5.30pm Mar-Nov) The primary purpose of this centre is animal rehab; all sorts of critters come here for fix-ups and rest-ups, and the odd bit of how’s-your-father goes on, too. Very special specimens in residence here include NZ’s ‘living dinosaur’ – the tuatara – as well as blue penguins, gecko and giant weta. Fish-feeding time (11am and 2pm) is a splashy spectacle.

Sleeping

HARBOUR VIEW MOTEL Motel $$

( 0800 101 133, 03-573 6259; www.harbourviewpicton.co.nz; 30 Waikawa Rd; d $125‑200; ) The elevated position of this motel commands good views of Picton’s mast-filled harbour from its tastefully decorated, self-contained studios with timber decks.

JASMINE COURT Motel $$

( 0800 421 999, 03-573 7110; www.jasminecourt.co.nz; 78 Wellington St; d $145-235, f $185-245; ) Top-notch, spacious motel with plush interiors, kitchenette, DVD player, plunger coffee and locally milled soap. Some rooms have a spa, and the odd one has a decent harbour view. Flash new studio units exhibit further excellence.

GABLES B&B B&B $$

( 03-573 6772; www.thegables.co.nz; 20 Waikawa Rd; s $100, d $140-170, units $155-200, all incl breakfast; ) This historic B&B (once home to Picton’s mayor) has three spacious, themed en-suite rooms in the main house and two homely self-contained units out the back. Prices drop if you organise your own breakfast. Lovely hosts show good humour (ask about the Muffin Club).

Eating

LE CAFÉ Cafe $$

(London Quay; lunch $10-23, dinner $19-33; 7.30am-10.30pm; ) A perennially popular spot both for its quayside location, dependable food and Havana coffee. The likes of salami sandwiches and sweets are in the cabinet, while a good antipasto platter, generous pasta, local mussels, lamb loin and expertly cooked fresh fish feature a la carte. Laid-back atmosphere, craft beer and occasional live gigs make this a good evening hang-out.

GUSTO Cafe $

(33 High St; meals $14-20; 7.30am-2.30pm; ) This workaday joint, with friendly staff and outdoor tables, does beaut breakfasts including first-class salmon-scrambled egg and a ‘Morning Glory’ fry-up worth the calories. Lunch options may include local mussels and a steak sandwich.

Information

Picton i-SITE ( 03-520 3113; www.destinationmarlborough.com; Foreshore; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun) All vital tourist guff including maps, Queen Charlotte Track information, lockers and transport bookings. Department of Conservation (DOC) counter staffed during summer.

Getting There & Away

Make bookings for ferries, buses and trains at Picton i-SITE.

Air

Soundsair ( 03-520 3080, 0800 505 005; www.soundsair.com) flies daily between Picton and Wellington (adult/child $100/88).

Boat

There are two operators crossing Cook Strait between Picton and Wellington, and although all ferries leave from more or less the same place, each has its own terminal.

Bluebridge Ferries ( 0800 844 844, in Wellington 04-471 6188; www.bluebridge.co.nz; adult/child from $51/26) crossings take three hours 20 minutes; up to four sailings in each direction daily. Cars and campervans up to 5.5m from $118, motorbikes $51, bicycles $10. Passenger fares from adult/child $51/26.

Interislander ( 0800 802 802, in Wellington 04-498 3302; www.interislander.co.nz; adult/child from $46/23) crossings take three hours 10 minutes; up to five sailings in each direction daily. Cars are priced from $118, campervans (up to 5.5m) from $133, motorbikes $56, bicycles $15. Passenger fares from adult/child $55/28.

Bus

Buses serving Picton depart from the Interislander terminal or nearby i-SITE.

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercitycoach.co.nz; Picton Ferry Terminal) runs services south to Christchurch (from $26, 5½ hours) via Kaikoura (from $17, 2½ hours), with connections to Dunedin, Queenstown and Invercargill. Services also run to/from Nelson (from $26, 2¼ hours), with connections to Motueka and the West Coast; and to/from Blenheim (from $10, 30 minutes). At least one bus daily on each of these routes connects with a Wellington ferry service.

Smaller shuttle buses running from Picton to Christchurch include Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) and Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com).

Ritchies Transport ( 03-578 5467; www.ritchies.co.nz) buses traverse the Picton–Blenheim line daily (from $12), departing from the Interislander ferry terminal.

Train

Tranz Scenic ( 0800 872 467, 04-495 0775; www.tranzscenic.co.nz) runs the Coastal Pacific service daily each way between Picton and Christchurch via Blenheim and Kaikoura (and 22 tunnels and 175 bridges!), departing Christchurch at 7am, Picton at 1pm. Adult one-way Picton–Christchurch fares range from $59 to $99. The service connects with the Interislander ferry.

Queen Charlotte Track

The hugely popular, meandering 71km Queen Charlotte Track offers gorgeous coastal scenery on its way from historic Ship Cove to Anakiwa, passing through a mixture of privately owned land and DOC reserves.

Queen Charlotte is a well-defined track, suitable for people of average fitness. You can do the walk in sections using local water-taxi transport, walk the whole three- to five-day journey, or embark on a combo of walking, kayaking or biking.

Numerous boat and tour operators service the track, allowing you to start and finish where you like, on foot or bike or by kayak (Click here).

Sleeping options are no more than a few hours’ walk apart; boat operators will transport your pack along the track for you.

Your overnight stops will depend on how far you want to walk on any given day – do your research and book ahead.

Information

The Picton i-SITE books and stocks everything Queen Charlotte Track, and loads more besides. Check online details at www.qctrack.co.nz.

Detour:

Kenepuru & Pelorus Sounds

To the west of Queen Charlotte, Kenepuru and Pelorus Sounds are less populous and therefore offer fewer traveller services, including transport. There’s some cracking scenery, however, and those with time to spare will be well rewarded by their explorations.

Havelock is the hub of this area, the western bookend of the 35km-long Queen Charlotte Dr (Picton being the eastern) and the self-proclaimed ‘Greenshell Mussel Capital of the World’. While hardly the most rock’n’roll of NZ towns, Havelock makes a practical base from which to set off, as you’ll readily locate most necessaries, including fuel and food.

For finer detail, including a complete list of visitor services, visit www.pelorus.co.nz, which covers Havelock, Kenepuru and Pelorus Sounds, and the extreme extremeties of French Pass and D’Urville Island.

Blenheim

Blenheim (pronounced ‘Blenum’) is an agricultural town 29km south of Picton on the Wairau Plain between the Wither Hills and the Richmond Ranges. The town has yet to demonstrate any real power as a visitor magnet; it is the neighbours over the back fence that pull in the punters.

Marlborough Wine Region

Sights

1 Marlborough Museum D2

2 Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre C2

Activities, Courses & Tours

3  Cloudy Bay C1

4  Huia B1

5  Seresin Estate A2

6  Spy Valley Wines A2

Sleeping

7  Olde Mill House B2

8  St Leonards C2

9  Vintners Hotel B1

10  Watson's Way Lodge B1

Sights & Activities

PAUL KENNEDY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Marlborough Wineries

Marlborough is NZ’s vinous colossus producing around three quarters of the country’s wine. Sunny days and cool nights create the perfect microclimate for cool-climate grapes: world-famous sauvignon blanc, top-notch pinot noir, and notable chardonnay, riesling, gewürztraminer, pinot gris and bubbly.

A TASTE OF THE TASTINGS

Clos Henri (www.closhenri.com; 639 SH63) French winemaking meets Marlborough terroir with très bien results.

Cloudy Bay (www.cloudybay.co.nz; Jacksons Rd) Understated exterior belies the classy interior of this blue-ribbon winery and cellar door.

Huia (www.huia.net.nz; 22 Boyces Rd) Sustainable, small-scale winegrowing and the cutest yellow tasting room in town.

Seresin Estate (www.seresin.co.nz; 85 Bedford Rd) Organic and biodynamic wines and olive oils from cinematographer Michael Seresin.

Spy Valley Wines (www.spyvalleywine.co.nz; 37 Lake Timara Rd, Waihopai Valley) Stylish, edgy architecture at this espionage-themed winery with great wines across the board.

WINE TOURS

Wine tours are generally conducted in a minibus, last between four and seven hours, take in four to seven wineries, and range in price from $55 to $90 (with a few grand tours up to around $200 for the day, including a winery lunch). Bubbly Grape ( 0800 228 2253, 027 672 2195; www.bubblygrape.co.nz) offers three different tours including a gourmet lunch option.

Take a self-guided, fully geared and supported tour with Bike2Wine ( 0800 653 262, 03-572 8458; www.bike2wine.co.nz; 9 Wilson St, Renwick; standard/tandem $30/60 per day, delivery/ pick-up $5-10 per bike).

OMAKA AVIATION HERITAGE CENTRE Museum

Offline map Google map

(www.omaka.org.nz; 79 Aerodrome Rd; adult/child/family $25/10/55; 10am-4pm) Blenheim’s ‘big attraction’ has always been its wineries, but the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre has blown the wine out of the water. Aided by Peter Jackson and his team of creative types, this captivating collection of original and replica Great War aircraft is brought to life with a series of dioramas depicting dramatic wartime scenes such as the death of Manfred von Richthofen, the Red Baron. The guided tour is an extra $5 extremely well spent. There’s a cafe and shop on-site, and next door is Omaka Classic Cars : more than 100 vehicles from the ’50s to the ’80s (adult/child $12.50/5).

Sleeping

Blenheim Town

171 ON HIGH Motel $$

( 0800 587 856, 03-579 5098; www.171onhighmotel.co.nz; 171 High St; d $140-180; ) A welcoming option close to town, these tasteful, splash-o-purple studios and apartments are bright and breezy in the daytime, warm and shimmery in the evening. Expect a wide complement of facilities and ‘extra mile’ service.

Wine Region

WATSON’S WAY LODGE Lodge $

( 03-572 8228; www.watsonswaybackpackers.co.nz; 56 High St, Renwick; dm $30, d $70-90; closed Aug-Sep; ) This traveller-focused, purpose-built hostel has spick-and-span rooms, mainly twins and doubles, some with en suite. There are spacious leafy gardens dotted with fruit trees and hammocks, an outdoor claw-foot bath, bikes for hire (guest/public rate $15/25 per day) and local information aplenty.

OLDE MILL HOUSE B&B $$

( 03-572 8458; www.oldemillhouse.co.nz; 9 Wilson St, Renwick; s/d $120/145; ) On an elevated section in otherwise flat Renwick, this charming old house is a treat. Dyed-in-the-wool local hosts run a welcoming B&B, with stately decor, and home-grown fruit and homemade goodies for breakfast. Free bikes, an outdoor spa and gardens make this a tip-top choice in the heart of the wine country.

ST LEONARDS Cottages $$

( 03-577 8328; www.stleonards.co.nz; 18 St Leonards Rd; d $115-310, extra adult $35; ) Tucked into the grounds of an 1886 homestead, these four rustic cottages offer privacy and a reason to stay put. (Anyone for tennis?) Each has its own history, lay-out and individual outlook to the gardens and vines. Our pick is the Stables, with its lemon-grove view.

VINTNERS HOTEL Hotel $$$

( 0800 684 190, 03-572 5094; www.mvh.co.nz; 190 Rapaura Rd; d $150-295; ) Sixteen architecturally designed suites make the most of wine-valley views, while inside classy suites boast wet-room bathrooms and abstract art.

Eating & Drinking

If You Like...

Small-Town Museums

If you like rather amazing Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre in Blenheim, here are a few other small-town museums chock-full of local lore.

1 MARLBOROUGH MUSEUM

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(www.marlboroughmuseum.org.nz; 26 Arthur Baker Pl off New Renwick Rd, Blenheim; adult/child $10/5; 10am-4pm) Besides a replica township, vintage mechanicals, train rides (every first and third Sunday) and well-presented artefact displays, there’s the Wine Exhibition for those looking to cap-off their vineyard experiences.

2 KAIKOURA DISTRICT MUSEUM

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(14 Ludstone Rd, Kaikoura; adult/child $5/1; 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 2-4pm Sat & Sun) This provincial museum houses the old town jail, historical photos, Maori and colonial artefacts, a huge sperm-whale jaw and the fossilised remains of a plesiosaur.

3 PICTON MUSEUM

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(London Quay, Picton; adult/child $5/1; 10am-4pm) If you dig local history – whaling, sailing and the 1964 Roller Skating Champs – this place is good rainy-day diversion. The photo displays are well worth a look.

Hospitality can be pretty hit and miss in Blenny, with some of the best food found yonder at the wineries. While you’re at it, keep an eye out for the scrumptious craft beers made by local brewers, Renaissance (www.renaissancebrewing.co.nz), and its associate 8-Wired (www.8wired.co.nz), 2011 Brewer’s Guild champion. Winemaker’s son, Josh Scott, also brews the good range of bottle-fermented beers and thirst-quenching ciders known as Moa (www.moabeer.co.nz).

RAUPO Modern Nz $$

(6 Symons St; breakfast $13-19, lunch & dinner $18-33; 7.30am-late) Blenheim’s best restaurant since the day it opened. It boasts stylish timber-and-stone architecture and a pleasant riverside location. This promise is backed up by consistent, modern cafe fare along the lines of macadamia muesli, aged feta and chorizo salad, local mussels and salmon, and superfine Euro-sweets: truffles, sorbet and pastries.

Information

Blenheim i-SITE ( 0800 777 181, 03-577 8080; www.destinationmarlborough.com; 8 Sinclair St; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 9am-4pm Sun) Information on Marlborough and beyond. Wine-trail maps and bookings for everything under the sun.

Getting There & Around

Air

Air New Zealand ( 03-577 2200, 0800 747 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz; 29 Queen St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) has direct flights to/from Wellington (from $99), Auckland (from $139) and Christchurch (from $99) with onward connections. Soundsair ( 0800 505 005; www.soundsair.com) and Air2There ( 0800 777 000; www.air2there.com) connect Blenheim with Wellington and Paraparaumu.

Bus

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercitycoach.co.nz) buses run daily from the Blenheim i-SITE to Picton (from $11, 30 minutes) continuing through to Nelson (from $18, 1¾ hours). Buses also head down south to Christchurch (from $25, three daily) via Kaikoura (from $16).

Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) runs from Blenheim to many South Island destinations, including Kaikoura ($18, two hours), Nelson ($23, 1¾ hours) and Motueka ($36, 3¾ hours).

Ritchies Transport ( 03-578 5467; www.ritchies.co.nz) buses traverse the Blenheim–Picton line daily (from $12), departing from Blenheim Railway Station.

Shuttles (and tours) around Picton and wider Marlborough are offered by Marlborough Sounds Shuttles ( 03-573 7122; www.marlboroughsoundsshuttles.co.nz).

Train

Tranz Scenic ( 0800 872 467, 04-495 0775; www.tranzscenic.co.nz) runs the daily Coastal Pacific service, stopping at Blenheim en route to Picton (from $29) heading north, and Christchurch (from $59) via Kaikoura (from $59) heading south.

Kaikoura

Until the 1980s Kaikoura was a sleepy crayfishing town (‘Kai’ meaning food, ‘koura’ meaning crayfish) with grim prospects. These days it has grown into a tourist mecca, with a range of quality accommodation and many other enticements including eye-popping wildlife tours.

Kaikoura

Sights

1 Kaikoura District Museum A1

2 Point Kean Seal Colony D4

Activities, Courses & Tours

Albatross Encounter (see 3)

3  Dolphin Encounter B2

4 Kaikoura Helicopters B1

5  Kaikoura Kayaks B2

6  Whale Watch Kaikoura B1

Sleeping

7  Nikau Lodge B2

8  Sails Motel B2

Eating

9  Corianders B1

10  Green Dolphin C3

11  Hislops B1

12 Original Kaikoura Seafood BBQ C3

13  Pier Hotel C3

Shopping

14 Cods & Crayfish B1

Sights & Activities

POINT KEAN SEAL COLONY Wildlife Reserve

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At the end of the peninsula seals laze around in the grass and on the rocks, lapping up all the attention. Give them a wide berth (10m), and never get between them and the sea – they will attack if they feel cornered and can move surprisingly fast.

KAIKOURA PENINSULA WALKWAY Walking

A foray along this walkway is a must-do if humanly possible. Starting from the town, this three- to four-hour loop heads out to Point Kean, along the cliffs to South Bay, then back to town over the isthmus (or in reverse, of course). En route you’ll be able to see fur seals and red-billed seagull and shearwater (aka mutton bird) colonies. Lookouts and interesting interpretive panels abound along the way. Collect a map at the i-SITE or follow your nose.

Tours

Whale-Watching

Your choices are boat, plane or helicopter. Aerial options are shorter and pricier, but allow you to see the whole whale, as opposed to just a tail, flipper or spout.

WHALE WATCH KAIKOURA Ecotour

( 0800 655 121, 03-319 6767; www.whalewatch.co.nz; Railway Station; 3hr tour adult/child $145/60) With knowledgeable guides and fascinating ‘world of whales’ onboard animation, Kaikoura’s biggest operator heads out on boat trips (with admirable frequency) to introduce you to some of the big fellers. It’ll refund 80% of your fare if no whales are sighted (success rate: 98%). If this trip is a must for you, allow a few days flexibility in case the weather turns to custard.

KAIKOURA HELICOPTERS Scenic Flights

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( 03-319 6609; www.worldofwhales.co.nz; Railway Station; 15-60min flight $100-490) Reliable whale-spotting flights (standard 30-minute tour $220 each for three or more people), plus jaunts around the peninsula, Mt Fyffe and peaks beyond.

Dolphin- & Seal-Spotting

DOLPHIN ENCOUNTER Ecotour

( 0800 733 365, 03-319 6777; www.dolphin.co.nz; 96 Esplanade; swim adult/child $175/160, observation $90/45; tours 8.30am & 12.30pm year-round, plus 5.30am Nov-Apr) Here’s your chance to rub shoulders with pods of dusky dolphins on three-hour tours. Limited numbers, so book in advance.

KAIKOURA KAYAKS Kayaking

( 0800 452 456, 03-319 7118; www.kaikourakayaks.co.nz; 19 Killarney St; seal tours adult/child $95/70; tours 8.30am, 12.30pm & 4.30pm Nov-Apr, 9am & 1pm May-Oct) Guided sea-kayak tours to view fur seals and explore the peninsula’s coastline. Kayaking lessons, freedom hire, family-friendly options and kayak fishing also available.

Birdwatching

ALBATROSS ENCOUNTER Birdwatching

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( 0800 733 365, 03-319 6777; www.albatrossencounter.co.nz; 96 Esplanade; adult/child $120/60; tours 9am & 1pm year-round, plus 6am Nov-Apr) Kaikoura is heaven for bird-nerds, who fly at the opportunity for a close encounter with pelagic species such as shearwaters, shags, mollymawks, petrels and the inimitable albatross.

Sleeping

NIKAU LODGE B&B

( 03-319 6973; www.nikaulodge.com; 53 Deal St; d $190-250; ) A waggly-tailed welcome awaits at this beautiful B&B high on the hill with grand-scale vistas. Four en-suite rooms are plush and comfy, with additional satisfaction arriving in the form of cafe-quality breakfasts accompanied by fresh local coffee. Good-humour, home-baking, free wi-fi, hot-tub and blooming gardens: you may want to move in.

KAIKOURA COTTAGE MOTELS Motel $$

( 0800 526 882, 03-319 5599; www.kaikouracottagemotels.co.nz; cnr Old Beach & Mill Rds; d $120-140; ) This enclave of eight modern tourist flats is looking mighty fine, surrounded by attractive native plantings now in full flourish. Oriented for mountain views, the self-contained units sleep four between an open plan studio-style living room and one private bedroom. Soothing sand-and-sky colour scheme and quality chattels.

SAILS MOTEL Motel $$

( 03-319 6145; www.sailsmotel.co.nz; 134 Esplanade; d $115, unit $140; ) There are no sea (or sails) views at this motel, so the cherubic owners have to impress with quality. Their four secluded, tastefully appointed self-contained units are down a driveway in a garden setting (private outdoor areas abound). The apartment sleeps four.

DYLAN’S COUNTRY COTTAGES Cottages $$

( 03-319 5473; www.lavenderfarm.co.nz; 268 Postmans Rd; d $175; closed May-Aug; ) On the grounds of the delightful Kaikoura Lavender Farm, northwest of town, these two self-contained cottages make for an aromatic escape from the seaside fray. One has a private outdoor bath and a shower emerging from a tree; the other an indoor spa and handkerchief lawn. Homemade scones, preserves and free-range eggs for breakfast. Sweet, stylish and romantic.

Eating & Drinking

GREEN DOLPHIN Seafood $$$

( 03-319 6666; www.greendolphinkaikoura.com; 12 Avoca St; mains $25-46; 5pm-late) Quality Kaikoura fish multiple ways, and the omnipresent bovine, porcine and lobstery treats, all made with care and a fondness for good local produce. On busy nights, book ahead or nurse a cocktail or aperitif in the pleasant bar or garden. Those with foresight should plump for a table with a view by the floor-to-ceiling windows.

If You Like...

Kaikoura Seafood

If you like the seafood at Green Dolphin in Kaikoura, here are a few less-formal ways to get some koura (crayfish) on your plate. At most local restaurants you’ll shell out (pardon the pun) around $55 for half a cray or over $100 for the whole beast, but the following options will save you a few dollars:

1 ORIGINAL KAIKOURA SEAFOOD BBQ

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(Fyffe Quay; 10.30am-early evening) Alfresco roadside stall near the seal colony – try a fish or scallop sandwich (white bread, of course) if crayfish doesn’t float your boat.

2 NINS BIN

(SH1; 8am-6pm) An iconic surf-side caravan 23km north of town. Upwards of $50 should get you a decent specimen.

3 CODS & CRAYFISH

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(81 Beach Rd; 8am-6pm) A no-frills shopfront selling fresh cooked or uncooked crays.

HISLOPS Cafe $$

(33 Beach Rd; lunch $9-24, dinner $22-37; 9am-late, closed Tue & Wed May-Sep; ) This snappy, feel-good cafe maintains its reputation for fresh, wholesome food. Start the morning with a guilt-free fry-up, then come back at night for organic meats plus local seafood, veg and vegan choices. Notable salads, such as goat’s feta and avocado.

CORIANDERS Indian $$

(17 Beach Rd; mains $14-20; ) Spicing up Kaikoura life, this branch of the Corianders chain keeps the bar raised with dependable Indian food in a pleasant environment. The epic menu has all your favourites and some you’ve never heard of. Excellent pakora, good breads and extensive veggie options.

PIER HOTEL Modern Nz $$

(www.thepierhotel.co.nz; 1 Avoca St; snacks $7-18, mains $24-34; 11am-late) Wide views of the bay and the mountains beyond make this the grandest dining room in town. A cheerful crew serves up generous portions of honest food, such as fresh local fish, baby back spare ribs and BBQ crayfish for those with fat wallets. The enticing public bar has reasonably priced beer and bar snacks, historical photos and a garden bar. Upstairs lodgings are worn and creaky, but good value (double room, including breakfast, from $115).

Information

Kaikoura i-SITE ( 03-319 5641; www.kaikoura.co.nz; West End; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun, extended hours in summer) Helpful staff make tour, accommodation and transport bookings, and help with DOC-related matters.

Getting There & Away

Bus

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) buses run between Kaikoura and Nelson (from $49, 3½ hours), Picton (from $17, 2¼ hours) and Christchurch (from $15, 2¾ hours).

Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) also runs to/from Kaikoura to most South Island destinations, departing from the i-SITE.

Train

Tranz Scenic ( 0800 872 467, 04-495 0775; www.tranzscenic.co.nz) runs the Coastal Pacific service, stopping at Kaikoura on its daily run between Picton (from $59, 2¼ hours) and Christchurch (from $59, three hours).

NELSON REGION

Nelson

Dishing up a winning combination of great weather and beautiful surroundings, Nelson is hailed as one of New Zealand’s most ‘liveable’ cities.

Nelson

Sights

1  Christ Church Cathedral B4

2 Nelson Provincial Museum B3

Sleeping

3  Palazzo Motor Lodge A4

4 South Street Cottages A4

Eating

5  DeVille B2

6  Hopgood's B3

7  Stefano's B2

Drinking

8  Free House C2

9 Sprig & Fern C3

10  Vic B3

Sights

THE WONDROUS WORLD OF WEARABLEART Museum

Nelson exudes creativity, so it’s hardly surprising that NZ’s most inspiring fashion show was born here. The concept was to create a piece of art that could be worn and modelled. The idea caught on, and the World of WearableArt Awards Show became an annual event.

The awards show has been transplanted to Wellington, but you can ogle entries at Nelson’s World of WearableArt & Classic Cars Museum (WOW; 03-547 4573; www.wowcars.co.nz; 1 Cadillac Way; adult/child $22/8; 10am-5pm). High-tech galleries include a carousel mimicking a catwalk, and glow-in-the-dark room.

More car than bra? Under the same roof are 50 mint-condition classic cars and motorbikes. Exhibits change, but may include a 1959 pink Cadillac, a yellow 1950 Bullet Nose Studebaker convertible and a BMW bubble car. You can view another 70 vehicles in the Classic Collection next door ($8 extra).

CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL Church

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Exploring the Marlborough Sounds

The Marlborough Sounds are a geographic maze of inlets, headlands, peaks, beaches and watery reaches, formed when the sea flooded into deep valleys after the last ice age.

Sounds travel is quicker by boat (for example, Punga Cove from Picton by car takes two to three hours, but just 45 minutes by boat). Numerous operators ply the waters; most can be found at the Picton Town Wharf. Bikes and kayaks can also be transported.

Cougar Line ( 03-573 7925, 0800 504 090; www.cougarlinecruises.co.nz; Town Wharf; track round-trip $103, full day tour from $75) QC Track transport, plus various half- and full-day cruise/walk trips including the rather special (and flexible) ecocruise trip to Motuara Island and a Ship Cove picnic.

Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company ( 03-573 6078, 0800 283 283; www.marlboroughsounds.co.nz; Town Wharf; half- to 3-day packages $85-545) Bike-walk-kayak trips, with options for everyone.

Wilderness Guides ( 03-573 5432, 0800 266 266; www.wildernessguidesnz.com; Picton Railway Station; 1-day trip from $125, kayak or bike hire per day $60) Host of the popular and flexible ‘multisport’ day trip (kayak/walk/cycle) plus many other guided and independent biking, hiking and kayking tours around the Queen Charlotte Sound.

Dolphin Watch Ecotours ( 03-573 8040, 0800 9453 5433; www.naturetours.co.nz; Town Wharf; dolphin swimming/viewing $165/100, other tours from $75) Half-day ‘swim with dolphins’ and wildlife tours including trips to Motuara Island.

Picton Water Taxis ( 027 227 0284, 03-573 7853; www.pictonwatertaxis.co.nz) Water taxi and sightseeing trips around Queen Charlotte, on demand.

Myths & Legends Eco-Tours ( 03-573 6901; www.eco-tours.co.nz; half-/full-day cruises $200/250) A chance to get out on the water with a local Maori family – longtime locals, storytellers and environmentalists.

(www.nelsoncathedral.org; Trafalgar Sq; admission free; 8am-7pm summer, to 5pm winter) The enduring symbol of Nelson, the art-deco Christ Church Cathedral lords over the city from the top of Trafalgar St. Work began in 1925, but this architectural hybrid wasn’t completed until 1965.

NELSON PROVINCIAL MUSEUM Museum

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(www.nelsonmuseum.co.nz; cnr Hardy & Trafalgar Sts; admission from adult/child $5/3; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat & Sun) This modern museum space is filled with cultural heritage and natural history exhibits with a regional bias, as well as regular touring exhibitions (admission price varies). It also features a great rooftop garden.

Activities

NELSON BONECARVING Carving

( 03-546 4275; www.carvingbone.co.nz; 87 Green St, Tahunanui; full-day course $79) Admirers of Maori design will love Stephan’s acclaimed bone-carving course. He’ll supply all materials, tools, instruction, encouragement and cups of tea (plus free pick-up/drop-off in town if needed); you supply inspiration and talent and you’ll emerge with your very own bone carving.

BIKING NELSON Mountain Biking

( 0800 224 532, 021 861 725; www.bikingnelson.co.nz; 3hr guided ride $115, bike hire half/full day $45/65) Hit the hillside mountain-bike trails with Dave and company, who run guided rides (all gear provided) and offer freedom rental and advice.

PARAGLIDING, HANG GLIDING & KITEBOARDING

Tandem paragliding costs around $180, while introductory courses are around $250. Tandem hang gliding is around $185, and introductory kiteboarding starts at $150.

Nelson Paragliding ( 03-544 1182, 0508 359 669; www.nelsonparagliding.co.nz)

Cumulus Paragliding ( 03-929 5515; www.tandem-paragliding.co.nz)

Kite Surf Nelson ( 0800 548 363; www.kitesurfnelson.co.nz)

Nelson Hang Gliding Adventures ( 03-548 9151; www.flynelson.co.nz)

Tours

BAY TOURS Guided Tour

( 0800 229 868, 03-548 6486; www.baytoursnelson.co.nz; half-/full-day tours from $89/144) Nelson city, region, wine, beer, food and art tours. The full-day scenic tour includes a visit to Kaiteriteri and a cruise in Abel Tasman National Park.

SIMPLY WILD Guided Tour

( 03-548 8500; www.simplywild.co.nz) A swathe of half- to five-day active wilderness adventures: walking, mountain biking, sailing, caving, rafting and canoeing around Nelson’s national parks. Prices on application.

Sleeping

PALAZZO MOTOR LODGE Motel $$

( 03-545 8171, 0800 472 5293; www.palazzomotorlodge.co.nz; 159 Rutherford St; studios $130-225, apt $225-390; ) Hosts with the most offer a cheerful welcome at this popular, modern, Italian-tinged motor lodge. The stylish studios and one- and two-room apartments feature enviable kitchens with decent cooking equipment, classy wineglasses and a dishwasher. The odd bit of dubious art is easily forgiven, particularly as Doris’ sausage is available for breakfast.

TE MAUNGA HOUSE B&B $$

( 03-548 8605; www.nelsoncityaccommodation.co.nz; 15 Dorothy Annie Way; s $90, d $100-135; ) Aptly named (Te Maunga means ‘the mountain’), this is a grand old family home on a knoll with exceptional views. Two doubles and a single, with their own bathrooms, are filled with characterful furniture and made up with good linens. Your hearty breakfast can be walked off up and down that hill. It’s only a 10-minute climb (15 minutes in all, from town), but only the leggy ones will revel in it. Closed from May to September.

SOUTH STREET COTTAGES Rental House $$$

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( 03-540 2769; www.cottageaccommodation.co.nz; South St; d from $225) Stay on NZ’s oldest preserved street in one of several endearing, two-bedroom self-contained cottages built in the 1860s. Each has all the comforts of home, including kitchen, laundry and courtyard garden; breakfast provisions supplied. There is a two-night minimum stay.

Eating

DEVILLE Cafe $$

(22 New St; meals $13-20; 9am-4pm Mon-Sat; ) Most of DeVille’s tables lie in its sweet walled courtyard, a hidden boho oasis in the inner city and the perfect place for a meal or morning tea. The food’s good, from fresh baked goods to the eggy brunch, caesar salad and sticky pork sandwich. Open late for live music Friday and Saturday in summer.

Racks of bottles in a winery tasting room;

ML HARRIS / GETTY IMAGES ©

STEFANO’S Pizzeria $

( 03-546 7530; 91 Trafalgar St; pizzas $6-29; lunch & dinner; ) Located upstairs in the State Cinema complex, this Italian-run joint turns out some of NZ’s best pizza. Thin, crispy and delicious, and some variations really very cheap. Wash it down with a beer or wine in the ambience-free interior or out on the tiny balcony.

HOPGOOD’S Modern Nz $$$

( 03-545 7191; 284 Trafalgar St; mains $34-37; 5.30pm-late Mon-Sat) Tongue-and-groove-lined Hopgood’s is perfect for a romantic dinner or holiday treat. The food is decadent and skilfully prepared but unfussy, allowing quality local ingredients to shine. The Asian crispy duck followed by twice-cooked pork belly with butter beans, spinach and bacon are knockouts. Desirable, predominantly Kiwi wine list. Bookings advisable.

Trafalgar Street, Nelson

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Drinking

FREE HOUSE Craft Beer

(www.freehouse.co.nz; 95 Collingwood St) Come rejoice at this church of ales. Tastefully converted from its original, more reverent purpose, it’s now home to an excellent, oft-changing selection of NZ craft beers. You can imbibe inside or out. Hallelujah.

VIC Pub

(www.vicbrewbar.co.nz; 281 Trafalgar St) A commendable example of a Mac’s Brewbar, with trademark, quirky Kiwiana fit-out, including a striped, knitted stag’s head. Quaff a few handles of ale, maybe grab a bite to eat (mains $10 to $30) and tap a toe to live music, including Tuesday-night jazz. Good afternoon sun and people-watching from streetside seating.

Information

Nelson i-SITE ( 03-548 2304; www.nelsonnz.com; cnr Trafalgar & Halifax Sts; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; ) A slick centre complete with DOC information desk for the low-down on national parks and walks (including Abel Tasman and Heaphy tracks). Pick up a copy of the Nelson Tasman Visitor Guide.

Getting There & Away

Air

Air New Zealand ( 03-546 3100, 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz; cnr Trafalgar & Bridge Sts; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) has direct flights to/from Wellington (from $79, up to 10 daily), Auckland (from $99, up to nine daily) and Christchurch (from $79, up to seven daily).

Soundsair ( 03-520 3080, 0800 505 005; www.soundsair.com) flies daily between Nelson and Wellington (from $107, up to three daily).

Bus

Book Abel Tasman Coachlines, InterCity, Tranz Scenic and Interisland ferries at the Nelson SBL Travel Centre ( 03-548 1539; www.nelsoncoaches.co.nz; 27 Bridge St).

Also based here are Abel Tasman Coachlines ( 03-548 0285; www.abeltasmantravel.co.nz; 27 Bridge St), operating services to Motueka ($12, one hour), Takaka ($35, two hours), Kaiteriteri and Marahau (both $20, two hours).

Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) runs from Nelson to Picton ($25, 2¼ hours), and daily to West Coast centres like Greymouth ($54, 5¾ hours) and Fox Glacier ($78, 9½ hours). Services can be booked at (and depart from) Nelson i-SITE.

InterCity ( 03-548 1538; www.intercity.co.nz; Bridge St) runs from Nelson to most key South Island destinations including Picton (from $18, two hours), Kaikoura (from $49, 3½ hours), Christchurch (from $54, seven hours) and Greymouth (from $40, six hours).

Detour:

Nelson Lakes National Park

Pristine Nelson Lakes National Park surrounds two lakes – Rotoiti and Rotoroa – fringed by sweet-smelling beech forest with a backdrop of greywacke mountains. At the northern end of the Southern Alps, with a dramatic glacier-carved landscape, it’s an awe-inspiring place to get up on high. The park is flush with bird life, and is famous for brown-trout fishing.

Many spectacular walks allow you to appreciate this rugged landscape, but before you tackle them, stop by the Department of Conservation (DOC) Visitor Centre for maps, track/weather updates, to leave intentions and to pay your hut or camping fees.

The five-hour Mt Robert Circuit Track starts south of St Arnaud and circumnavigates the mountain, with options for a side trip along Robert Ridge. Alternatively, the St Arnaud Range Track (five hours return), on the east side of the lake, climbs steadily to the ridgeline via Parachute Rocks.

There are also plenty of shorter (and flatter) walks starting from Lake Rotoiti’s Kerr Bay and the road end at Lake Rotoroa. These and the longer day tramps in the park are described in DOC’s Walks in Nelson Lakes National Park pamphlet ($2).

The DOC Visitor Centre ( 03-521 1806; www.doc.govt.nz; View Rd; 8am-4.30pm) offers park information (weather, activities), hut passes, plus displays on park ecology and history. See also www.starnaud.co.nz.

Motueka

Motueka (pronounced Mott-oo-ecka, meaning ‘Island of Wekas’) is a bustling town, one which visitors will find handy for stocking up en route to Golden Bay and the Abel Tasman and Kahurangi National Parks.

Activities

SKYDIVE ABEL TASMAN Extreme Sports

( 0800 422 899, 03-528 4091; www.skydive.co.nz; Motueka Aerodrome, College St; jumps 13,000ft/16,500ft $299/399) Move over Taupo tandems: we’ve jumped both and think Mot takes the cake (presumably so do the many sports jumpers who favour this drop zone, some of whom you may see rocketing in). DVDs and photos cost extra, but pick-up/drop-off from Motueka and Nelson are free.

TASMAN SKY ADVENTURES Scenic Flights

( 0800 114 386, 027 229 9693; www.skyadventures.co.nz; Motueka Aerodrome, College St; 30min flight $185) A rare opportunity to fly in a microlight. Keep your eyes open and blow your mind on a scenic flight above Abel Tasman National Park. Wow. And there’s tandem hang gliding for the eager (15/30 minutes, 2500ft/5280ft $185/275).

Sleeping

NAUTILUS LODGE Motels $$

( 0800 628 845, 03-528 4658; www.nautiluslodge.co.nz; 67 High St; d $160-220; ) A top-notch motel complex with 12 units decorated in neutral tones with low- profile furniture including European slatted beds. There are kitchenettes in larger units, spa baths in some, full Sky TV and classy bathrooms in all, and balconies and patios collecting afternoon sun.

RESURGENCE Lodge, Chalets $$$

( 03-528 4664; www.resurgence.co.nz; Riwaka Valley Rd; lodge from $625, chalets from $525; ) Choose a luxurious en-suite lodge room or self-contained chalet at this magical 20-hectare bushland retreat 15 minutes’ drive north of Motueka, and half an hour’s walk from the picturesque source of the Riwaka River. Lodge rates include cocktails and a four-course dinner as well as breakfast, or you can fire up the barbecue if you’re staying in one of the chalets. Chalet rates are for B&B; lodge dinner extra ($90).

Lake Rotoiti, Nelson Lakes National Park

PAUL KENNEDY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Eating & Drinking

UP THE GARDEN PATH Cafe $$

(473 High St; meals $15-27; 9am-5pm Mon-Sun; ) Perfect for lunch or a peppy coffee, this licensed cafe-gallery kicks back in an 1890s house amid idyllic gardens. Unleash the kids in the playroom and linger over your panini, cheese platter, mushroom burger, seafood chowder, pasta or lemon tart. Vegetarian, gluten- and dairy-free options, too.

SPRIG AND FERN Pub

Offline map Google map

(www.sprigandfern.co.nz; Wallace St; meals $14-19; 2pm-late) Recently born of the expanding Sprig and Fern family, this branch has upped the ante among Motueka’s drinking holes. Small but pleasant, with two courtyards, it offers 20 hand-pulled beers, simple food (burgers, pizza, platters) and occasional live music.

Information

Motueka i-SITE ( 03-528 6543; www.abeltasmanisite.co.nz; 20 Wallace St; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) An excellent centre with helpful staff who will make bookings from Kaitaia to Bluff and provide local national-park expertise and necessaries.

Getting There & Away

Abel Tasman Coachlines ( 03-528 8850; www.abeltasmantravel.co.nz) runs two to four times daily from Motueka to Nelson ($12, one hour), Marahau ($10, 30 minutes), Kaiteriteri ($10, 25 minutes) and Takaka ($26, one hour).

Golden Bay Coachlines ( 03-525 8352; www.goldenbaycoachlines.co.nz) runs from Motueka to Takaka ($26, one hour) and Collingwood ($39, 1½ hours), as well as other Golden Bay destinations in summer, including the Heaphy Track and Totaranui.

Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) runs from Motueka to Nelson ($11, one hour).

Abel Tasman National Park

The accessible, coastal Abel Tasman National Park blankets the northern end of a range of marble and limestone hills extending from Kahurangi National Park. Various tracks in the park include an inland route, although the coast track is what everyone is here for – it sees more foot traffic than any other Great Walk in New Zealand.

Abel Tasman National Park

Sleeping

1 Anchorage Hut B5

Aquapackers (see 1)

2 Awaroa Hut A3

3  Totaranui DOC Campsite A2

4 Whariwharangi Hut A1

Activities

The 51km, three- to five-day Abel Tasman Coast Track is one of the most scenic in the country, passing through native bush overlooking golden beaches lapped by gleaming azure water. Numerous bays, small and large, are like a travel brochure come to life. Visitors can walk into the park, catch water taxis to beaches and resorts along the track, or kayak along the coast.

In summer hundreds of trampers tackle the track at the same time. Track accommodation works on a booking system: huts and campsites must be prebooked year-round. There’s no charge for day walks – if you’re after a taster, the two- to three-hour stretch from Tonga Bay to Bark Bay is as photogenic as any, or get dropped at a beach and just hang out.

For a full description of the route, see DOC’s Abel Tasman Coast Track brochure.

Tours

ABEL TASMAN SAILING ADVENTURES Sailing

( 03-527 8375, 0800 467 245; www.sailingadventures.co.nz; Kaiteriteri; half/full day $85/169) Offers the only scheduled sailing trips into the park on baord a catamaran. Sail/walk/kayak combos available; day-trip includes lunch.

ABEL TASMAN TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Walking

( 03-528 9602; www.abeltasmantours.co.nz; $220) Small-group, day-long walking tours (minimum two people) that include packed lunch and water taxis.

WILSONS ABEL TASMAN Walking, Kayaking

( 0800 221 888, 03-528 2027; www.abeltasman.co.nz; 265 High St, Motueka; half-day cruise $70, cruise & walk $55-70, kayak & walk $89-195) Impressive array of cruises, walks, kayak and combo tours, including $32 backpacker special and the barbecue cruise (great winter option). Luxurious beachfront lodges at Awaroa and Torrent Bay for guided-tour guests.

Sleeping & Eating

At the southern edge of the park, Marahau is the main jumping-off point for the Abel Tasman National Park. From the northern end of the park, the nearest towns with accommodation are Pohara and Takaka. The whopping Totaranui DOC Campsite ( 03-528 8083; www.doc.govt.nz; unpowered sites adult/child $12.50/6.50) is also in the north, 32km from Takaka on a narrow, winding road (12km unsealed – check with DOC or the Golden Bay i-SITE for latest conditions). It’s serviced by Abel Tasman Coachlines (www.abeltasmantravel.co.nz) from October to April. Sites at Totaranui from December to mid-February are now allocated via ballot; download a booking form from the DOC website.

Along the Coast Track there are four huts: Anchorage (24 bunks), Bark Bay (34 bunks), Awaroa (26 bunks) and Whariwharangi (20 bunks), plus 19 designated campsites. None of these have cooking facilities – BYO stove. Some of the campsites have fireplaces but, again, you must carry cooking equipment. Hut and camp passes should be purchased before you enter the park. From Christmas Day to February, huts and campsites fill to the rafters (book with DOC).

Moored permanently in Anchorage Bay, the Aquapackers ( 0800 430 744; www.aquapackers.co.nz; Anchorage; dm/d incl breakfast$70/195) is a rockin’ option. This specially converted 13m Catarac catamaran provides unusual but buoyant backpacker accommodation for 22. Facilities are basic but decent; prices include bedding, dinner and breakfast. Bookings essential.

Further sleeping options in the park (accessible on foot, by kayak or water taxi, but not by road) are largely confined to holiday homes. Ask about these at the Nelson or Motueka i-SITEs or browse online.

Information

The track operates on DOC’s Great Walks Pass (sites/huts per person $12.20/35.70). Children are free but booking is still required. Book online (www.doc.govt.nz), contact the Nelson Marlborough Bookings Helpdesk ( 03-546 8210; nmbookings@doc.govt.nz), or in person at the Nelson, Motueka and Takaka i-SITES or DOC offices, where staff can offer suggestions to tailor the track to your needs and organise transport at each end. Book your trip well ahead of time, especially the huts between December and March.

Getting Around

Common setting-out points for the Abel Tasman are Kaiteriteri and Marahau in the south, and Takaka in the north. All are serviced by Abel Tasman Coachlines (www.abeltasmantravel.co.nz), with connections to Nelson and Motueka.

Once you hit the park, it is easy to get to/from any point on the track by water taxi, either from Kaiteriteri or Marahau. Typical one-way prices from either Marahau or Kaiteriteri: Anchorage and Torrent Bay ($33), Bark Bay ($38), Tonga ($40), Awaroa ($43) and Totaranui ($45). Key operators include the following.

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Paddling the Abel Tasman

The Abel Tasman Coast Track has long been trampers’ territory, but its coastal beauty makes it an equally seductive spot for sea kayaking, which can easily be combined with walking and camping.

You can kayak from half a day up to three days, camping ($12.20 per night) or staying in Department of Convservation (DOC) huts ($35.70 per night), baches, even a floating backpackers, either fully catered for or self-catering. You can kayak one day, camp overnight then walk back, or walk further into the park and catch a water taxi back.

Most operators offer similar trips at similar prices. Marahau is the main base, but trips also depart Kaiteriteri. A popular choice if time is tight is spend a few hours kayaking in the Tonga Island Marine Reserve, followed by a walk from Tonga Quarry to Bark Bay. This will cost around $160 including water taxis. Three-day trips usually drop you at the northern end of the park, then you paddle back (or vice versa) and cost around $600 including food. One-day guided trips are around $200.

November to Easter is the busiest time, with December to February the absolute peak. You can, however, paddle all year round, with winter offering its own rewards. The weather is surprisingly amenable, the seals are more playful, there’s more bird life and less haze.

NEED TO KNOW

These are the main players in this competitive market. Shop around.

Abel Tasman Kayaks ( 03-527 8022, 0800 732 529; www.abeltasmankayaks.co.nz; Main Rd, Marahau); Kahu Kayaks ( 03-527 8300, 0800 300 101; www.kahukayaks.co.nz; cnr Marahau Valley Rd); Kaiteriteri Kayaks ( 03-527 8383, 0800 252 925; www.seakayak.co.nz; Kaiteriteri Beach & Marahau Beach Rd); Marahau Sea Kayaks ( 03-527 8176, 0800 529 257; www.msk.co.nz; Abel Tasman Centre, Franklin St); Sea Kayak Company ( 03-528 7251, 0508 252 925; www.seakayaknz.co.nz; 506 High St, Motueka); Wilsons Abel Tasman ( 0800 221 888, 03-528 2027; www.abeltasman.co.nz; 265 High St, Motueka)

Abel Tasman Aqua Taxi ( 0800 278 282, 03-527 8083; www.aquataxi.co.nz; Kaiteriteri & Marahau) Scheduled and on-demand services as well as boat/walk options.

Abel Tasman Sea Shuttle ( 0800 732 748, 03-527 8688; www.abeltasmanseashuttles.co.nz; Kaiteriteri) Scheduled services plus cruise/walk options. Also runs between Nelson and Kaiteriteri during peak season (adult/child $30/15).

Wilsons Abel Tasman ( 0800 223 582, 03-528 2027; www.abeltasman.co.nz; 265 High St, Motueka; pass adult/child $145/72.50) Offers an explorer pass for unlimited taxi travel on three days over a five-day period, plus backpacker specials and an array of tours.

Marahau Water Taxis ( x0800 808 018, 03-528 2027; www.abeltasmancentre.co.nz; Abel Tasman Centre, Franklin St, Marahau) Scheduled services plus boat/walk options.

Detour:

Farewell Spit

Bleak, exposed and slighly sci-fi, Farewell Spit is a wetland of international importance and a renowned bird sanctuary – the summer home of thousands of migratory waders, notably the godwit (which flies all the way from the Arctic tundra), Caspian terns and Australasian gannets. The 35km beach features colossal, crescent-shaped dunes, from where panoramic views extend across Golden Bay and a vast low-tide salt marsh. Walkers can explore the first 4km of the spit via a network of tracks, but beyond that point access is via tour only.

Farewell Spit Eco Tours ( 0800 808 257, 03-524 8257; www.farewellspit.com; Tasman St, Collingwood; tours $120-145) Operating for more than 65 years, this outfit runs a range of tours from three to 6½ hours, taking in the spit, lighthouse, gannets and godwits. Tours depart from Collingwood.

Farewell Spit Nature Experience ( 0800 250 500, 03-524 8992; www.farewellspittours.com; tours $120-135) Four-hour spit tours depart Farewell Spit Visitor Centre; six-hour tours depart the Old School Café, Pakawau.

Christchurch & Central South

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF LONELY PLANET MAPS

E-reader devices vary in their ability to show our maps. To get the most out of the maps in this guide, use the zoom function on your device. Or, visit http://media.lonelyplanet.com/ebookmaps and grab a PDF download or print out all the maps in this guide.

CHRISTCHURCH & CENTRAL SOUTH

CHRISTCHURCH & CENTRAL SOUTH’S HIGHLIGHTS

CHRISTCHURCH & CENTRAL SOUTH’S BEST…

NEED TO KNOW

CHRISTCHURCH & CENTRAL SOUTH ITINERARIES

DISCOVER CHRISTCHURCH & THE CENTRAL SOUTH

Christchurch

Around Christchurch

North Canterbury

South Canterbury

The West Coast

Westland Tai Poutini National Park

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Christchurch & Central South

Nowhere in New Zealand is changing and developing as fast as post-earthquake Christchurch, and visiting the country’s second-largest city as it’s being rebuilt and reborn is both interesting and inspiring.

A short drive from Christchurch’s dynamic re-emergence, Banks Peninsula conceals hidden bays and beaches – a backdrop for kayaking and wildlife cruises with a sunset return to the attractions of Akaroa. Throughout the seasons, Aoraki/Mt Cook, the country’s tallest peak, stands sentinel over this diverse region.

Over the craggy Southern Alps, hemmed in by the wild Tasman Sea, the West Coast (aka Westland) is like nowhere else in New Zealand. During summer a phalanx of campervans and tourist buses tick off the must-see Punakaiki Rocks and Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. Deviate from the trail even a short way, however, and you’ll be awed by the spectacular sights that await you alone.

View of the Southern Alps across Canterbury countryside

RACHEL LEWIS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Christchurch & Central South

Christchurch

Akaroa & Banks Peninsula

Aoraki/Mt Cook

Glaciers

Punakaiki Rocks

Hanmer Springs

Methven

Punting on the Avon River (Click here   )

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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Christchurch & Central South’s Highlights

Post-Quake Christchurch

On 22 February 2011 Christchurch was wracked by a huge earthquake, killing 185 people and leaving hundreds of buildings requiring demolition. Reconstruction is a long-term prospect, but around town things are changing daily. There’s a real vigour and creative energy in the way locals are redesigning their city and their lives.

Re:START Mall (Click here   )

GREG BALFOUR EVANS / ALAMY

Need to Know

THE LATEST Check out www.christchurchnz.com ONLY A FEW HOURS? Visit Re:START shipping-container mall or explore the Botanic Gardens For further coverage, Click here

Christchurch Don’t Miss List

BY JEFF PETERS, CENTREPOINT ON COLOMBO MOTEL

1 THE MAIN SIGHTS

Christchurch is still the South Island’s main gateway and hub: most tourist things are up and running, including the International Antarctic Centre (Click here), Canterbury Museum (Click here), which escaped with very little damage, and the Botanic Gardens (Click here). Sadly, we’ve lost the cathedral, and the tram and gondola will be closed for some time. The Art Gallery won’t open till mid-2013 and the Arts Centre won’t open for many years… But the city is still a great place to visit!

Little blue penguin, International Antarctic Centre (Click here   );

KAREN FULLER / ALAMY ©

2 CREATIVE REBUILDING

Rebuilding will be a long process – 10, 15, 20 years. So people are finding creative opportunities to get on with things. The quintessential Christchurch experience now is to open a cafe, bar or restaurant in a shipping container, semitrailer or caravan. The shipping-container mall Re:START (Click here) really symbolises this kind of spirit.

3 EATING & DRINKING

We lost around half the pubs and restaurants around town, so the ones that are still operating are really busy! A certain amount of pride has kicked in: their tables are probably going to be full anyway, but the service and food are usually pretty great. Christchurch has stood up and said, ‘No earthquake’s gunna beat us!’

Canterbury Museum (236)

TUPUNGATO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 EMERGING AREAS

Addington is emerging as an events area – Dux Live (Click here), a music venue, and the Court Theatre (Click here) are there now, plus some great cafes. The city centre will come back, but satellite areas around Christchurch are really going to thrive in the meantime.

5 QUAKE TOURISM

Take some time to understand what’s happened here; walk around the city centre, or take a ride out to Sumner where there are houses half-hanging over the edges of cliffs. Chat with the locals – your waiter or someone in the Botanic Gardens – and listen to their stories. ‘Disaster tourism’ is no problem, but it’s probably best to stay away from residential areas.

Akaroa & Banks Peninsula

A haven for artists, gardeners and holiday-makers, Akaroa (population 550) on the Banks Peninsula offers an engaging mix of volcanic landscapes, a gorgeous harbour and French colonial heritage. And with its own microclimate (locals grow grapes, olives and citrus), Akaroa is always a few degrees warmer than nearby Christchurch.

RICHARD CUMMIN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Need to Know

BEST SEASON Spring or autumn SHORT ON TIME? Akaroa waterfront promenade PHOTO OP Summit Rd along the old volcano rim For further coverage, Click here

Akaroa & Banks Peninsula Don’t Miss List

BY HOLLIE HOLLANDER, AKAROA DISTRICT PROMOTIONS

1 WATERFRONT AKAROA

Christchurch people used to call Akaroa the ‘Riviera of Canterbury’. Along the waterfront are plenty of places to relax with a coffee or a glass of wine, and there’s a lovely promenade right along the shore. Boats moor in the harbour, and a local fisherman sells his catch on the main wharf. There aren’t many places left in NZ where you can buy fresh fish off the wharf!

RICHARD CUMMIN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

2 FRENCH HISTORY

In the 1830s Akaroa was a whaling port. French whaler Captain Langlois saw a future here and purchased Banks Peninsula in a dodgy deal with local Maori. He returned to France to round up some colonists, but in the meantime Maori signed the Treaty of Waitangi with the British. So in the end it was the Union Jack flying here, not Le Tricolore. The French settlers stayed anyway, leaving a legacy of beautiful timber buildings, gardens and French street names. And now you can buy baguettes and croissants at the deli on the main street!

3 DOLPHINS & PENGUINS

Hector’s Dolphins are a big drawcard here – they’re the smallest dolphins in the world, like little torpedoes! You can swim with them out in the harbour, or take a cruise and see them from a boat. Sea-kayak operators run dolphin trips too, or you can hire a kayak from the Adventure Centre (Click here). We’ve also got an amazing white-flippered penguin colony here – there’s lots of conservation work happening.

4 PENINSULA WALKS

The walking tracks around the Peninsula are one of the things that make the region so special: you can be down by the water in Akaroa by the cafes, then half an hour later be walking in the hills with amazing views and bird life. There’s also the two- or four-day Banks Peninsula Track (Click here), a commercially operated coastal walk that’s been getting some rave reviews.

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Aoraki/Mt Cook

Standing proud at 3754m, Aoraki/Mt Cook (Click here) is something to behold. It’s quite cloud-covered, but on a clear day the jagged, heaven-high peak is inspiring and humbling. Even when it is cloudy, this mountain’s magnitude is undeniable. Walking around the lake-strewn foothills in the crisp alpine air as avalanches rumble on distant slopes, you’ll be forgiven for feeling a tad insignificant!

TIM BARKER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Glaciers

Quick, scoot over to the West Coast and see Franz Josef Glacier (Click here) and Fox Glacier (Click here) before global warming melts them. You probably don’t have to be there in the next 10 minutes – there’s a heckuva lot of ice here. Take a hike around the jagged glacial faces (but not too close – these things are moving!) or a scenic flight above or onto these massive rivers of ice.

Hikers on Franz Josef Glacier

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Punakaiki Rocks

Weird! Piled up like giant-sized flapjacks, the West Coast’s Punakaiki Rocks (Click here) are worth writing home about – these oddball geologic formations will make you wonder if someone/something really did design this lonely planet (and possibly make you hungry). The ocean booms through blowholes nearby, and there’s an easy walking track from the parking area (have you ever seen so many campervans?).

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Hanmer Springs

Forget your Blackberry, your briefcase, your business… You’ve come on holiday to really de-stress, haven’t you? Take a trip 1½ hours north from Christchurch to hassle-free Hanmer Springs (Click here), passing rivers, vineyards, mountains and country towns en route. Once you arrive you can take a dip in hot mineral springs or have a massage before hitting the restaurants and bars. There’s skiing and snowboarding here in winter, too.

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Methven Activities

The laid-back little Central Canterbury town of Methven (Click here) is a real outdoorsy hub, functioning in winter as a base for skiing and snowboarding at nearby Mt Hutt (Click here), and in summer as the place in NZ to try hot-air ballooning. You can also tackle horse riding, mountain biking, jetboating and (if the whole self-preservation instinct thing doesn’t kick in) skydiving.

Skiing on Mt Hutt

BO TORNVIG / GETTY IMAGES ©

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Christchurch & Central South’s Best…

Natural Wonders

»Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers (Click here and Click here) There’s only one word that fits – awesome!

»Aoraki/Mt Cook (Click here) Nobody bagged this lofty peak until 1894 – it’s really big

»Banks Peninsula (Click here) Spaghetti-like volcanic coastlines

»Punakaiki Rocks (Click here) Stacks of giant dolomite pancakes… Pass the maple syrup

Short Strolls

»Mt John (Click here) A fab three-hour return hike to the summit above Lake Tekapo

»Banks Peninsula Track (Click here) Two- or four-day hop across farmland by the coast

»Hooker Valley (Click here) Glacial streams, swing bridges and Aoraki panoramas (hope for a sunny day)

»Christchurch Botanic Gardens (Click here) Work the plane-seat kinks out of your legs in these beautiful gardens

Places to Unwind

»Banks of the Avon (Click here) While away a few hours by the riverside in central Christchurch

»Hanmer Springs (Click here) Slip into a hot spa, get your spine massaged, or revel in après-ski good times

»Akaroa waterfront (Click here) Sip a strong coffee, munch a French pastry and assess the passers-by

»Monteith’s Brewing Co (Click here) Big, beery and beautiful on the West Coast

Ballooning near Methven (Click here   );

DAVID WALL /LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Places to Get Giddy

»Aoraki/Mt Cook from Above (Click here) As high as Kiwis get without wings (take a scenic flight unless you’re a hard-core mountaineer)

»Methven Hot-air Balloons (Click here) Everybody sing: ‘ Up, up and away, my beautiful, my beautiful balloon’

»TranzAlpine (Click here) Climb high over the Southern Alps on this epic train ride

»Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers Scenic Flights (Click here and Click here) See them from above via wings, rotor blades or a parachute

Lake Tekapo (Click here   )

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © /LONELY PLANET IMAGES

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Need to Know

ADVANCE PLANNING

»One month before Book a seat on the TranzAlpine train, and your beds from Akaroa to Fox Glacier

»Two weeks before Organise a scenic flight above Aoraki/Mt Cook or the West Coast glaciers, or a balloon trip in Methven

»One week before Book a table at a top Christchurch restaurant and a tour at Monteith’s Brewing Co in Greymouth

RESOURCES

»Christchurch & Canterbury (www.christchurchnz.com) For the latest post-quake updates. Also see www.popupcity.co.nz for an ongoing blog of new eating and drinking opportunities around town

»Christchurch City Council (www.christchurch.org.nz)

»Akaroa Information Centre (www.akaroa.com) Banks Peninsula and Akaroa info

»DOC Aoraki/Mt Cook Visitor Centre (www.doc.govt.nz) Advises on weather conditions, guided tours and tramping

»Westland Tai Poutini National Park Visitor Centre & i-SITE (www.glaciercountry.co.nz, www.doc.govt.nz) At Franz Josef; also the regional DOC office

GETTING AROUND

»Bus From town to town across Canterbury

»Hire a car To explore beyond the Christchurch city limits

»Campervan Up and down the wild, driftwood-strewn shores of the West Coast

»Train Across the snowy crags of the Southern Alps on the TranzAlpine

»Punt Along the lazy, languid River Avon (bring some cucumber sandwiches, a boater hat and some champagne)

BE FOREWARNED

»Mt Cook Village Accommodation Weary travellers without a reservation might find themselves without a bed at Mt Cook Village. Accommodation here is scant (especially midrange) and pricey: unless you want to backtrack to Twizel, book well in advance.

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Christchurch & Central South Itineraries

Christchurch is the real deal: culture, class and southern spirit. Across Canterbury are incredible summits, peninsulas and lakes, while over the mountains are the West Coast’s glaciers, rock formations and wilderness.

CHRISTCHURCH TO HANMER SPRINGS CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY

There’s too much to see and too much to do in Canterbury: don’t waste time! Hit (1) Christchurch running, with a kick-arse cafe coffee, a visit to the Canterbury Museum and a float through the Botanic Gardens on an Avon River punt. The city is rebuilding and reinventing itself: connect with the locals over a meal or a drink and discover a city getting back on its feet.

The next day cruise out to the formerly volcanic folds of (2) Banks Peninsula : explore the very Frenchy (3) Akaroa, with its wildlife-rich harbour, and the peninsula’s photogenic outer bays. You can also swim with dolphins here, and kayak around the coast.

Day three already! Give your Canterbury compass a twirl: you could wander west to (4) Lake Tekapo and the snowy heights of (5) Aoraki/Mt Cook, where you can tramp, ski or take a scenic flight; or head over to the West Coast and back in a day on the (6) TranzAlpine train… But our vote is to point the needle north to (7) Hanmer Springs, a chilled-out hot-springs resort town from which you can launch a wintertime skiing sortie or spa yourself silly. And, if you have more time, the West Coast awaits beyond the mountains…

Cruise boat near Akaroa (Click here   )

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

HANMER SPRINGS TO WESTLAND TAI POUTINI NATIONAL PARK HEADING FOR THE COAST

Shake yourself from your relaxed stupor in (1) Hanmer Springs and leap over the Alps to Westport and the (2) Punakaiki Rocks south of town. You can also tramp near here in (3) Paparoa National Park.

Next stop heading south is (4) Greymouth. The town itself might not hold your attentions: prosects improve with a tour of Monteith’s Brewing Co, a West Coast brewery that started small but now has taps and barrels in pubs and bars across NZ (its Celtic Red ale is a knockout). Then, if you’re still not wild about the West Coast, the (5) TranzAlpine train trundles back over the mountains from here to Christchurch.

The Big Daddies of West Coast tourism are, however, further south: the momentous Franz Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier in (6) Westland Tai Poutini National Park. If you’ve never seen a glacier before, these two will knock your socks off! Take a hike around or actually on one of them, or hop on a scenic flight to really grasp the enormity and power of these incredible ice rivers.

From the West Coast, you can save time with a short flight back to Christchurch from Hokitika.

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Discover Christchurch & the Central South

At a Glance

»Christchurch (Click here) The big smoke down south, ‘Chch’ is an urbane and cultured town on the rise after the 2011 earthquakes.

»Canterbury (Click here) The region beyond Christchurch offers sky-scraping mountains, convoluted peninsulas and braided rivers.

»West Coast (Click here) Wild, rainy and eccentric, the West Coast is like nowhere else on earth.

Fountain in the Christchurch Botanic Gardens

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

CHRISTCHURCH

Welcome to a vibrant city in transition, coping resiliently and creatively with the aftermath of NZ’s second-biggest natural disaster (especially as tremors can still be felt regularly). Traditionally the most English of NZ cities, Christchurch is now adding a modern and innovative layer to its damaged heritage heart.

Greater Christchurch

Activities, Courses & Tours

1  Bone Dude B1

Sleeping

2  Merivale Manor A1

3  Wish B1

Eating

4  Addington Coffee Co-op A2

5  Bodhi Tree A1

6 Christchurch Farmers Market A2

7  Holy Smoke C3

Simo's Deli (see 4)

Drinking

8  The Brewery C3

9  Volstead Trading Company A2

Entertainment

Court Theatre (see 4)

Sights & Activities

BOTANIC GARDENS Gardens

Offline map Google map

(www.ccc.govt.nz; Rolleston Ave; admission free, guided walks $10, train tour adult/child $18/9; grounds 7am-1hr before sunset, conservatories 10.15am-4pm,cafe 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.15am-4pm Sat & Sun; ) The Botanic Gardens comprise 30 riverside hectares planted with 10,000-plus specimens of indigenous and introduced plants. Guided walks depart daily at 1.30pm (September to April) from the Canterbury Museum, or you can ride around the gardens in the electric ‘ Caterpillar’ train (www.gardentour.co.nz). Hop-on/hop-off tickets are valid for two days (10am to 4pm) and include a commentary.

CANTERBURY MUSEUM Museum

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( 03-366 5000; www.canterburymuseum.com; Rolleston Ave; admission by donation; 9am-5pm Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar) The absorbing Canterbury Museum has a wonderful collection of items of significance to NZ. Highlights include the Maori gallery, with some stunning pounamu (greenstone) pieces on display; the coracle in the Antarctic Hall that was used by a group shipwrecked on Disappointment Island in 1907; and a wide array of stuffed birds from the Pacific and beyond: don’t miss the statuesque Emperor penguin. Guided tours (donations appreciated) run from 3.30pm to 4.30pm on Tuesday and Thursday.

INTERNATIONAL ANTARCTIC CENTRE Wildlife

( 03-353 7798, 0508 736 4846; www.iceberg.co.nz; 38 Orchard Rd; adult/child/family from $35/20/95; Penguin Backstage Pass adult/child/family $25/15/80; 9am-5.30pm; ) The International Antarctic Centre is part of a huge complex built for the administration of the NZ, US and Italian Antarctic programs. See penguins and learn about the icy continent via historical, geological and zoological exhibits.

The Christchurch Earthquakes

Christchurch’s seismic nightmare began at 4.35am on 4 September 2010. Centered 40km west of the city, a 40-second, 7.1-magnitude earthquake jolted Cantabrians from their sleep, and caused widespread damage to older buildings in the central city.

Fast forward to 12.51pm on 22 February 2011, when central Christchurch was busy with shoppers and office and retail workers enjoying their lunch break. This time the 6.3-magnitude quake was much closer, centred just 10km southeast of the city and only 5km deep.

When the dust settled after 24 traumatic seconds, NZ’s second-largest city had changed forever. The towering spire of the iconic Christ Church Cathedral lay in ruins; walls and verandas had cascaded down on the city’s central retail hub; and two multistorey buildings had pancaked, causing scores of deaths. Around half of the quake’s total of 181 deaths (across 20 nationalities) occurred in the Canterbury TV building, including many international students at a language school.

Around a quarter of the buildings within the city’s famed four avenues need to be demolished. Entire streets and family neighbourhoods in the eastern suburbs will be abandoned, and Christchurch’s heritage architecture is irrevocably damaged.

Draft plans for the city’s rebuild over 20 years include a compact, low-rise city centre, neighbourhood green spaces and parks and cycleways along the Avon River. Coupled with the endurance and energy of the people of Christchurch, the city’s future promises to be both interesting and innovative.

JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Don't Miss

Antigua Boatsheds

Dating from 1882, the photogenic green-and-white Antigua Boatsheds are the starting point for Punting on the Avon, where someone else does all the work during a half-hour return trip in a flat-bottomed boat. There’s also an excellent cafe which is a great spot for brunch or lunch. Kayaks and rowboats can be rented for independent Avon River exploration.

NEED TO KNOW

Click here www.punting.co.nz; 2 Cambridge Tce; punting adult/child/family $25/12/65; 9am-6pm, cafe 7am-5pm

Central Christchurch

Top Sights

Botanic Gardens B4

Canterbury Museum C4

Sights

1 Arts Centre C4

2 Botanic Gardens Visitors Centre B4

Activities, Courses & Tours

3 Antigua Boatsheds C5

4 Christchurch Personal Guiding Service C4

Sleeping

5 CentrePoint on Colombo E2

6  Classic Villa C4

7  George C2

8  Orari B&B D4

Eating

9 Beat St G3

Drinking

10 Cargo A7

11 Carlton Country Club C1

12 Pomeroy's Old Brewery Inn H3

13 Revival D2

Entertainment

14  Dux Live A7

Shopping

15  Re:START Mall E5

BONE DUDE Art

( 03-385 4509; www.thebonedude.co.nz; 153 Marshland Rd, Shirley; per person $60; 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Creative types should book a session with the Bone Dude, now relocated to the suburb of Shirley, where you can craft your own bone carving (allow three hours). Owner John Fraser, who’s of Ngati Rangitihi ancestry, provides a range of traditional Maori templates, or you can work on your own design.

NATURAL HIGH Bicycle Rental

( 03-982 2966, 0800 444 144; www.naturalhigh.co.nz) Rents touring and mountain bikes (per day/week from $40/154), and can advise on guided and self-guided bicycle touring through Canterbury and the South Island.

Tours

CANTERBURY LEISURE TOURS Guided Tour

( 0800 484 485, 03-384 0999; www.leisuretours.co.nz; tours from $60) Touring options in and around Christchurch, with everything from three-hour city tours to full-day outings to Akaroa, Mt Cook, Arthur’s Pass and Kaikoura.

CHRISTCHURCH BIKE TOURS Guided Tour

( 0800 733 257; www.chchbiketours.co.nz; tours from $40; departs 2pm daily) Informative, two-hour tours loop around the city along quiet cycleways and leafy park tracks. Also available is a gourmet food tour and a Saturday-morning foodie spin, taking in the Christchurch Farmers Market.

CHRISTCHURCH PERSONAL GUIDING SERVICE Walking Tour

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( 03-379 9629; tours $15; 11am & 1pm Oct-Apr, 1pm May-Sep) Nonprofit organisation offering informative two-hour city walks. Buy tickets and join tours at the i-SITE departure point.

Sleeping

ORARI B&B B&B $$$

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( 03-365 6569; www.orari.net.nz; 42 Gloucester St; d $195-255; ) Orari is a late-19th-century home that has been stylishly updated with light-filled, pastel-toned rooms and inviting guest areas, as well as a lovely front garden. Wine connoisseurs can look forward to complimentary wine after a busy day.

WISH B&B $$

( 03-356 2455; www.wishnz.com; 38 Edgeware Rd, St Albans; s/d incl breakfast from $125/150; ) The rooms and beds at the stylish Wish are supercomfy, but it could be the locally sourced, sustainable and organic breakfasts that you recommend to other travellers. Contemporary NZ art dots the walls, and the huge native-timber kitchen table is just made for catching up with other guests over an end-of-day glass of wine.

CENTREPOINT ON COLOMBO Motel $$

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( 0800 859 000, 03-377 0859; www.centrepointoncolombo.co.nz; 859 Colombo St; d $155-165, apt $180-260; ) CentrePoint on Colombo has super-comfortable facilities and the bonus of a friendly Kiwi-Japanese management. The owners are a mine of information on how Christchurch is bouncing back after the earthquakes, and happily provide guests with up-to-date information on the best places to eat around town.

GEORGE Boutique Hotel $$$

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( 0800 100 220, 03-379 4560; www.thegeorge.com; 50 Park Tce; d $506-886; ) The George has 53 handsomely decorated rooms and suites on the fringe of Christchurch’s sweeping Hagley Park. Discreet staff attend to every whim; there are two excellent restaurants; and ritzy features including huge TVs, luxury toiletries and glossy magazines. Check online for good-value packages and discounts.

CLASSIC VILLA B&B $$$

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( 03-377 7905; www.theclassicvilla.co.nz; 17 Worcester Ave; d $269-489; ) Ideally located near the Botanic Gardens and Canterbury Museum, the Classic Villa is one of Christchurch’s most elegant accommodation options. Rooms are trimmed with antiques and Turkish rugs for a classy ambience, and the expansive, Mediterranean-style breakfast is a shared social occasion around the dining room’s big wooden table. No children under 12 years old allowed.

MERIVALE MANOR Motel $$

( 03-355 7731; www.merivalemanor.com; 122 Papanui Rd; d $145-185; ) A gracious 19th-century Victorian residence is now the hub of an elegant motel. Accommodation ranges from studios (some with spa baths) to one- and two-bedroom apartments. In keeping with the property’s history, decor is understated, and the classy shopping and good bars and restaurants of Merivale are just a few hundred metres away.

Eating

BODHI TREE Burmese $$

( 03-377 6808; www.bodhitree.co.nz; 39 Ilam Rd; dishes $13-24; 6-10pm Tue-Sun; ) Christchurch’s only Burmese restaurant is also one of the city’s best eateries. Standout dishes include the le pet thoke (pickled tea-leaf salad) and the ciandi thoke (grilled eggplant). Dishes are starter-sized, so drum up a group and sample lots of different flavours.

HOLY SMOKE Steakhouse $$

(www.holysmoke.co.nz; 650 Ferry Rd; brunch & lunch mains $18-25, dinner mains $26-36; 9am-late Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun) At Holy Smoke, the native wood manuka (NZ tea tree), is used to smoke everything from pork ribs and chicken wings to bacon and salmon. Other menu items include robust slabs of venison, lamb and beef, all teamed with Kiwi craft beers and Central Otago wines.

ADDINGTON COFFEE CO-OP Cafe $

(www.addingtoncoffee.org.nz; 297 Lincoln Rd; snacks & mains $6-20; ) One of Christchurch’s biggest and most bustling cafes is also one of its best. Fair-trade coffee and a compact stall selling organic cotton T-shirts jostle for attention with delicious cakes and slices, while a cross-section of the city comes for the free wi-fi, gourmet pies and wraps, and the legendary big breakfasts.

BEAT STREET Cafe $

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(324 Barbadoes St; snacks & mains $8-16; ) Welcome to the grungy hub of Christchurch cafe-cool. Free range this and organic that combine with terrific eggy breakfasts, gourmet pies (try the feta and vegie one) and robust Havana coffee. Beat Street hosts a bohemian open-mic night featuring music and poetry on the third Thursday of every month from 6pm.

SIMO’S DELI Moroccan $

(www.simos.co.nz; 3/300 Lincoln Rd; wraps $6.50-$9.50, tapas & mains $7-17) Part cafe and part deli, Simo’s in Addington is popular for its takeaway bocadillos (grilled wraps filled with a huge selection of Middle Eastern and African-inspired fillings, sauces and toppings). Other tasty offerings include small plates of grilled calamari or spicy merguez sausages, or more robust tagines (Moroccan casseroles) and beef kofta with pomegranate sauce.

Drinking

POMEROY’S OLD BREWERY INN Craft Beer

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(www.pomeroysonkilmore.co.nz; 292 Kilmore St) The welcoming Pomeroy’s is the city’s hoppy hub for fans of NZ’s rapidly expanding craft beer scene. A wide range of guest taps showcase brews from around the country, often including seasonal beers and limited releases. Check the website for what’s coming up. There’s occasional live music, and the attached Victoria’s Kitchen does great pub food (mains $20 to $30).

VOLSTEAD TRADING COMPANY Bar

(www.volstead.co.nz; 55 Riccarton Rd) Volstead is a great example of what Christchurch has always done better than the rest of NZ: shabbily chic bars with a real sense of individuality. Comfy old sofas from your last student flat combine with quirky artwork, interesting beers from the Moa Brewery, and funky cocktails.

THE BREWERY Craft Beer

(www.casselsbrewery.co.nz; 3 Garlands Rd) Out in Woolston, it’s a fair schlep from the city, but the Brewery is an essential destination for beer-loving travellers. Cassels & Sons crafts all its beer using a wood-fired brew kettle, resulting in big, bold beers like its 1PA and Best Bitter. Tasting trays are available for the curious and the indecisive, and the food – including wood-fired pizzas – is top-notch, too.

Entertainment

DUX LIVE Live Music

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If You Like...

Shipping-Container Cool

Thirsty in Christchurch? Duck into one of these innovative shipping-container bars before more substantial constructions reclaim the city’s booze hounds.

1 REVIVAL

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(www.revivalbar.co.nz; 94 Victoria St) Revival is the hippest of Christchurch’s container bars, with regular DJs, an on-site Lebanese food caravan and a funky lounge area dotted with automotive rear ends and vintage steamer trunks.

2 CARLTON COUNTRY CLUB

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(1 Papanui Rd) Perched on a busy urban corner, the Carlton is a thoroughly unpretentious spot, with a sunny rooftop deck and lots of thirsty locals tucked away in its nooks and crannies.

3 CARGO

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(379 Lincoln Rd) At Addington’s Cargo shipping container bar, there’s even an astroturf putting green in the corner.

(363 Lincoln Rd) Dux de Lux was an excellent restaurant, microbrewery and live-music venue in Christchurch’s Arts Centre, but it was forced to close after the February 2011 earthquake. The beer is still being brewed (try it here and at at Dux de Lux in Queenstown) and in late 2011 this Addington venue opened for live music.

COURT THEATRE Theatre

( 0800 333 100, 03-963 0870; www.courttheatre.org.nz; off Bernard St) Christchurch’s original Court Theatre was an iconic part of the city’s Arts Centre, but it was forced to relocate after the earthquakes. Its new premises in up-and-coming Addington are more modern and spacious, and it’s a great venue to see popular international plays and works by NZ playwrights. Check the website for what’s playing.

Shopping

RE:START MALL Mall

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(www.restart.org.nz) Opened in late October 2011, this colourful labyrinth of shops based in shipping containers was the first retail activity in the Christchurch CBD after the February 2011 earthquake. With a couple of decent cafes, and including two iconic Christchurch stores – Scorpio Books and Johnson’s Grocers – it’s a pleasant place to stroll. Visit Hapa for a good selection of design and crafts from local artists.

Information

Medical Services

Bealey Avenue Medical Centre ( 03-365 7777; www.pegasus.org.nz; cnr Bealey Ave & Colombo St; 24hr) Located north of town, with no appointment necessary.

Christchurch Hospital ( 03-364 0640, emergency dept 03-364 0270; www.cdhb.govt.nz; 2 Riccarton Ave) Centrally located.

Tourist Information

Christchurch i-SITE ( 03-379 9629; www.christchurchnz.com; Rolleston Ave, beside the Canterbury Museum; 8.30am-5pm, later in summer) Transport, activities and accommodation. Note that this location may change during the life of this book. Check online for the current location when you visit.

Getting There & Away

Air

Christchurch Airport (CHC; 03-358 5029; www.christchurchairport.co.nz) is the South Island’s main international gateway. Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) Direct flights to/from Auckland (from $79), Blenheim (from $99), Dunedin (from $79), Hamilton (from $109), Hokitika (from $109), Invercargill (from $109), Napier (from $109), Nelson (from $79), New Plymouth (from $109), Palmerston North (from $119), Queenstown (from $59), Rotorua (from $119), Tauranga (from $109), Wanaka (from $99) and Wellington (from $59).

Jetstar ( 0800 800 995; www.jetstar.com) has direct flights to/from Auckland ($79),Queenstown ($59), and Wellington ($59).

Bus

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz; 118 Bealey Ave) Northbound buses go to Kaikoura (2¾ hours), Blenheim (five hours) and Picton (5½ hours), with connections to Nelson (eight hours). One daily bus also goes southwest to Queenstown direct (eight hours). Heading south, two buses run daily along the coast via the towns along SH1 to Dunedin (six hours), with connections via Gore to Invercargill (9¾ hours) and Te Anau (10½ hours).

Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com; 70 Bealey Ave) Heads north to Picton and Nelson, south to Dunedin and southwest to Queenstown.

Train

Christchurch railway station ( 0800 872 467, 03-341 2588; www.tranzscenic.co.nz; Troup Dr; ticket office 6.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun) is serviced by a free shuttle that picks up from various accommodation; ring the i-SITE to request pick-up. An alternative is Steve’s Airport Shuttle ( 0800 101 021) for $5.

The Coastal Pacific runs daily each way between Christchurch and Picton via Kaikoura and Blenheim, departing from Christchurch at 7am and arriving at Picton at 12.13pm. The standard adult one-way fare to Picton is $99, but fares can be discounted to $59.

The TranzAlpine has a daily route between Christchurch and Greymouth via Arthur’s Pass. The standard adult one-way fare is $129, but fares can be discounted to $89.

Contact Kiwi Rail Scenic ( 0800 872 467; www.tranzscenic.co.nz).

Getting Around

To/From the Airport

The airport is 12km from the city centre.

Super Shuttle ( 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz) operates 24 hours and charges $24 for one person between the city and the airport, plus $5 for each additional person. A cheaper alternative is Steve’s Airport Shuttle ( 0800 101 021; 1/2/4 persons $15/20/20) offering a door-to-door service from 3am.

The airport is serviced by the City Flyer bus ( 0800 733 287; www.redbus.co.nz; adult/child $7.50/4.50), which runs to/from the Central Bus Station between 7.15am and 10.15pm Monday to Friday and 7.15am to 9.15pm Saturday and Sunday.

A taxi between the city centre and airport costs around $45 to $55.

Public Transport

The Christchurch bus network (Metro; 03-366 8855; www.metroinfo.org.nz; 7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm Sun) is inexpensive and efficient. Tickets (adult/child $3.20/1.60) include one free transfer within two hours. Metrocards allow unlimited two-hour/full-day travel for $2.30/4.60, but the cards must be loaded up with a minimum of $10.

Taxi

Blue Star ( 0800 379 979; www.bluestartaxis.org.nz)

First Direct ( 0800 505 555; www.firstdirect.net.nz)

AROUND CHRISTCHURCH

Detour:

Lyttelton

Southeast of Christchurch are the prominent Port Hills, which slope down to the city’s port at Lyttelton Harbour. Following the earthquakes, Lyttelton has re-emerged as one of Christchurch’s most interesting and resilient communities. The town’s artsy, independent and bohemian vibe is stronger than ever, and it’s again becoming a hub for good bars, cafes and restaurants. It’s well worth catching the bus from Christchurch and getting immersed in the local scene.

Lyttelton is linked to Christchurch via a road tunnel, but there’s a more scenic (and 10km longer) route along the narrow Summit Rd, which has breathtaking city, hill and harbour views, as well as vistas of the Southern Alps. The Lyttelton visitor information centre ( 03-328 9093; www.lytteltonharbour.info; London St; 9am-5pm Sep-May, to 4pm Jun-Aug) has accommodation and transport information.

Akaroa & Banks Peninsula

Banks Peninsula and its hills were formed by two giant volcanic eruptions about eight million years ago. The historic town of Akaroa is a highlight, as is the absurdly beautiful drive along Summit Rd around the edge of the original crater.

Sights

GIANT’S HOUSE Garden

(www.thegiantshouse.co.nz; 68 Rue Balguerie; adult/child/family $20/10/45; noon-5pm 26 Dec-22 April, 2-4pm in winter) An ongoing labour of love from local artist Josie Martin, this playful and whimsical combination of sculpture and mosaics cascades down a hillside garden above Akaroa.

AKAROA MUSEUM Museum

(cnr Rues Lavaud & Balguerie; adult/child/family $4/1/8; 10.30am-4.30pm Oct-Apr, to 4pm May-Sep) This interesting museum is spread over several historic buildings, including the old courthouse; the tiny Custom House by Daly’s Wharf; and one of NZ’s oldest houses, Langlois-Eteveneaux. It has modest displays on the peninsula’s once-significant Maori population, a courtroom diorama, a 20-minute audiovisual on peninsular history, and Akaroa community archives.

Activities

The Akaroa – An Historic Walk booklet ($9.50) details a walking tour starting at the 1876 Waeckerle Cottage (Rue Lavaud) and finishing at the old Taylor’s Emporium premises near the main wharf. The route takes in the old wooden buildings and churches that give Akaroa its character. Audio guides for self-guided walking tours ($10 per 90 minutes) are also available at the visitor information centre.

BANKS PENINSULA TRACK Tramping

( 03-304 7612; www.bankstrack.co.nz; per person $220) This 35km four-day tramp traverses private farmland around the dramatic coastline of Banks Peninsula. Costs includes transport from Akaroa and hut accommodation. A two-day option ($145) covers the same ground at twice the speed.

AKAROA ADVENTURE CENTRE Adventure Sports

( 03-304 8709; Rue Lavaud; 8.30am-5.30pm) The Akaroa Adventure Centre rents out sea kayaks, bikes, golf clubs, fishing rods and windsurfing gear.

CAPTAIN HECTOR’S SEA KAYAKS Kayaking

( 03-304 7866; www.akaroaseakayaks.co.nz; Beach Rd; kayak hire per half/full day $35/60) Rental kayaks, canoes and rowboats for self-exploration.

BLACK CAT CRUISES Wildlife Tours

( 03-304 7641; www.blackcat.co.nz; Main Wharf; 5 tours daily 6am-3.30pm Oct-Apr, 1 tour daily 11.30am May-Sep) The waters around Akaroa are home to the world’s smallest and rarest dolphin, the Hector’s dolphin, found only in NZ waters. If viewing the dolphins on a harbour cruise isn’t enough, Black Cat Cruises can also get you swimming alongside the dolphins (assuming it’s not the calving season). Cost are $139/115 per adult/child for a cruise and swim and $72/35 for a cruise only.

Sleeping

OLD SHIPPING OFFICE Apartment $$$

( 0800 695 2000; www.akaroavillageinn.co.nz; Church St; d $230) A self-contained apartment in a restored heritage building with an interesting past. (No prizes for guessing the building’s former incarnation.) Two bedrooms, a spacious shared lounge and an outdoor spa pool make the Old Shipping Office a good option for families or for two couples.

TRESORI MOTOR LODGE Motel $$

( 0800 273 747, 03-304 7500; www.tresori.co.nz; cnr Rue Jolie & Church St; d $155-205; ) For designer-conscious lodgings treat yourself to the Tresori; its rich, colourful decor is anything but bland. It’s a short walk to Akaroa’s waterfront cafe and restaurant strip.

COOMBE FARM B&B $$

( 03-304 7239; www.coombefarm.co.nz; 18 Old Le Bons Track; d incl breakfast $145-165) Choose between staying in the private and romantic Shepherd’s Hut – complete with an outdoor bath – or in the historic farm house, now lovingly restored and dotted with interesting contemporary art and Asian antiques. After breakfast (including homemade jam and organic yoghurt), you can negotiate Coombe Farm’s private forest and stream walkway.

Eating & Drinking

LITTLE BISTRO French $$

( 03-304 7314; 33 Rue Lavaud; mains $27-35; 6pm-late Tue-Sun; ) Très petite, très chic and very tasty. Look forward to classic bistro style given a proud Kiwi spin with local seafood, South Island wines and Canterbury craft beers. The menu changes seasonally, but usually includes favourites such as pistachio-encrusted lamb or Akaroa salmon terrine; vegetarians are not ignored. Booking ahead is definitely necessary. Sometimes open for lunch in summer – check the blackboard out the front.

TRUBY’S BAR ON THE BEACH Bar

(Rue Jolie) A perfect waterfront location combines with rustic outdoor seating to produce Akaroa’s best place for a sundowner drink. Truby’s blue cod and chips for dinner are world-famous in Akaroa, and baked cheesecake and good coffee are other distractions earlier in the day.

Information

Akaroa Information Centre ( 03-304 8600; www.akaroa.com; 80 Rue Lavaud; 9am-5pm) Tours, activities and accommodation.

Getting There & Away

From November to April the Akaroa Shuttle ( 0800 500 929; www.akaroashuttle.co.nz; return $45) departs Christchurch daily at 8.30am and 2pm, returning from Akaroa at 10.30am, 3.35pm and 4.30pm. Bookings are recommended. From May to September, there’s only a 10am departure from Christchurch. Check the website for Christchurch pick-up options. Scenic tours from Christchurch exploring Banks Peninsula are also available.

French Connection ( 0800 800 575; www.akaroabus.co.nz; return $45) has a year-round daily departure from Christchurch at 9.15am, returning from Akaroa at 4pm.

NORTH CANTERBURY

Hanmer Springs

Hanmer Springs, the main thermal resort on the South Island, is 10km off SH7. It’s a pleasantly low-key spot to indulge in bathing in hot pools and being pampered in the spa complex. There are good restaurants and lots of family-friendly activities.

Sights

HANMER SPRINGS THERMAL POOLS Bathhouse

( 03-315 0000; www.hanmersprings.co.nz; entry on Amuri Ave; adult/child $18/9; 10am-9pm) Visitors have been soaking in the waters of Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools for more than 100 years. In addition to mineral pools, there are landscaped rock pools, a freshwater 25m lap pool, private thermal pools ($25 per 30 minutes) and a restaurant. The adjacent Hanmer Springs Spa ( 03-315 0029, 0800 873 529; www.hanmerspa.co.nz; 10am-7pm) has massage and beauty treatments from $70.

Activities

Other Hanmer Springs activities include kayaking, scenic flights, fishing trips and claybird shooting. Family-friendly activities include minigolf and tandem bicycles.

There are two skiing areas nearby. Hanmer Springs Ski Field is the closest, 17km (unsealed road) from town, and Mt Lyford Ski Field is 60km away.

HANMER SPRINGS ADVENTURE CENTRE Adventure Sports

( 0800 368 7386, 03-315 7233; www.hanmeradventure.co.nz; 20 Conical Hill Rd; 9am-5pm) Books activities, and rents quad bikes (from $129), mountain bikes (per hour/day from $19/45), fishing rods (per day $25) and ski and snowboard gear.

Sleeping

CHELTENHAM HOUSE B&B $$$

( 03-315 7545; www.cheltenham.co.nz; 13 Cheltenham St; s $195-235, d $235-265; ) Centrally located B&B with six snooze-inducing suites, all with bathroom, and including two in cosy garden cottages; there’s a billiard table, grand piano and complimentary predinner wine. Cooked gourmet breakfasts can be delivered to your room. Avoid the crowds up the road in the private hot tub.

TUSSOCK PEAK MOTOR LODGE Motel $$

If You Like...

Southern Wildlife

If you like dolphin swimming with Black Cat Cruises, here are a few other ways to experience the wildlife in this neck of the woods.

1 ORANA WILDLIFE PARK

(www.oranawildlifepark.co.nz; McLeans Island Rd, Christchurch; adult/child $25/8; 10am-5pm) A walk-through native bird aviary, nocturnal kiwi house and a reptile exhibit with wrinkly tuatara. There’s Africana, too (lions, rhinos, lemurs, cheetahs…). Guided walks at 10.40am and 2.30pm.

2 WILLOWBANK WILDLIFE RESERVE

(www.willowbank.co.nz; 60 Hussey Rd, Christchurch; adult/child/family $25/10/65; 9.30am-dusk) Focuses on native NZ animals and hands-on enclosures with alpacas, wallabies and deer. After-dark tours are a good opportunity to see NZ’s national bird, the kiwi.

3 AKAROA DOLPHINS

( 03-304 7866, 0800 990 102; www.akaroadolphins.co.nz; 65 Beach Rd, Akaroa; adult/child $70/35; departures 10.15am, 12.45pm & 3.15pm summer, 10.15am only winter) Two-hour wildlife cruises, plus evening cruises and bird-watching trips by arrangement.

( 0800 8877 625, 03-315 5191; www.tussockpeak.co.nz; cnr Amuri Ave & Leamington St; d $145-225; ) Modern, spotless and central, Tussock Peak has colourful decor and friendly service that’s an eclectic cut above other motels on Hanmer’s main drag. The hardest part is choosing what kind of room to get: studio, one- or two-bedroom units, spas, courtyards or balconies.

Eating & Drinking

CHANTELLINI’S French $$

( 03-315 7667; www.chantellinis.com; 11 Jollies Pass Rd; mains $30-36; 10am-10.30pm) Tucked away behind the main street, this quiet oasis is a relaxed cafe with outdoor garden seating by day, and an intimate French bar and restaurant by night. Chandeliers and black drapes create an elegant ambience. Portions are generous, and the daily two-/three-course lunch for $25/30 is great value – try the leek tart or onion soup. Bookings are recommended for dinner.

Boats on Akaroa Harbour (p 246)

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

MONTEITH’S BREWERY BAR Pub

(wwww.mbbh.co.nz; 47 Amuri Ave) The best pub in town features lots of different Monteiths beers and tasty tucker from bar snacks ($10 to $17) to full meals ($17 to $32). Platters ($27 to $54) are good value if you’ve just met some new friends in the hot pools across the road.

Information

Hanmer Springs i-SITE ( 0800 733 426, 03-315 7128; www.visithanmersprings.co.nz; 42 Amuri Ave; 10am-5pm) Books transport, accommodation and activities.

Getting There & Away

Hanmer Backpackers run daily shuttles between Hanmer and Christchurch (90 minutes) and also operates a convenient service to and from Kaikoura (two hours; Monday, Wednesday and Friday). Hanmer Connection ( 0800 242 663; www.atsnz.com) also links Hanmer Springs to Christchurch.

Methven

Methven is busiest in winter, when it fills up with snow-sports fans heading to nearby Mt Hutt. In summer, Methven town is a laid-back option with quieter (and usually cheaper) accommodation than elsewhere in the country, and a ‘what shall I do today?’ range of warm-weather activities.

Activities

AORAKI BALLOON SAFARIS Ballooning

( 0800 256 837, 03-302 8172; www.nzballooning.co.nz; flights $385) Early morning combos of snowcapped peaks and a champagne breakfast.

METHVEN HELISKIING Skiing

( 03-302 8108; www.methvenheli.co.nz; Main St; 5-run day trips $950; May-Oct) Trips include guide service, safety equipment and lunch.

SKYDIVING NZ Skydiving

( 03-302 9143; www.skydivingnz.com; Pudding Hill Airfield) Offers tandem jumps from 3600m ($440).

Sleeping

BELUGA LODGE B&B $$

( 03-302 8290; www.beluga.co.nz; 40 Allen St; d incl breakfast $165-260; ) Highly relaxing B&B with king-sized beds, fluffy bathrobes, luscious bathrooms and private decks. Extreme privacy-seekers should consider the garden suite, with its own patio and barbecue. A four-bedroom cottage is also available ($275 to $375 per night; minimum three-night stay from June to October).

The Southern Alps, near Methven

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

GLENTHORNE STATION Lodge $$

( 0800 926 868, 03-318 5818; www.glenthorne.co.nz; lodges per person $25-35, holiday house per person $50) This beautifully isolated 258-sq-km sheep station is 60km northwest of Methven, on the northern shore of Lake Coleridge. The high-country accommodation ranges from budget lodges to a self-contained holiday house.

Information

Methven i-SITE ( 03-302 8955; www.methveninfo.co.nz; 160 Main St; 9am-5pm; ) Books accommodation, skiing packages, transport and activities.

Getting There & Around

Methven Travel ( 0800 684 888, 03-302 8106; www.methventravel.co.nz; 93 Main St; Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat in summer, up to three times daily in winter) picks up from Christchurch (one hour). Christchurch airport departures are also available.

Shuttles operate from Methven to Mt Hutt ski field in winter ($38).

SOUTH CANTERBURY

Lake Tekapo

At the southern end of its namesake lake, this town has unobstructed views across turquoise water and a backdrop of rolling hills and mountains.

Sights & Activities

Popular walks include the track to the summit of Mt John (three hours return), accessible from just beyond the camping ground. Other walks are detailed in the brochure Lake Tekapo Walkway ($1). In winter, Lake Tekapo is a base for downhill skiing at Mt Dobson or Round Hill, and cross-country skiing on the Two Thumb Range.

Sleeping

GLACIER ROCK BED AND BREAKFAST B&B $$

( 03-680 6669; www.glacierrock.co.nz; 35 Lochinver Ave; d incl breakfast $195-250; ) This architecturally designed home doubles as an art gallery. An artist’s – or maybe an architect’s – eye is evident in the spacious and airy rooms. Breakfast is served in sunny rooms with huge picture windows.

PEPPERS BLUEWATER RESORT Motel $$

( 0800 275 373; www.peppers.co.nz; SH8; d from $140; ) A sprawling resort arrayed around rocky pools and tussocky gardens. Rooms are chic and modern – if sometimes on the small side – but last-minute online discounts make this a place worth considering.

Information

Lake Tekapo i-SITE ( 03-680 6579; www.laketekapountouched.co.nz; Godley Hotel, SH8; 9am-6pm) Accommodation, activites and transport information.

Getting There & Away

Southbound services to Queenstown (four hours) and Wanaka (three hours via Tarras), and northbound services to Christchurch (four hours), are offered by Atomic Shuttles (www.atomictravel.co.nz), InterCity (www.intercity.co.nz) and Southern Link Coaches ( 0508 458 835; www.southernlinkcoaches.co.nz).

Cook Connection ( 0800 266 526; www.cookconnect.co.nz) operates to Mt Cook (two hours) and Twizel (one hour). Travel can be over more than one day.

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park

Of the 27 NZ mountains over 3050m, 22 are in this park. The highest is the mighty Mt Cook – at 3754m it’s the tallest peak in Australasia.

Mt Cook is a wonderful sight, assuming there’s no cloud in the way. Most visitors arrive on tour buses, stop at the Hermitage hotel for photos, and then zoom off back down SH80. Hang around to soak up this awesome peak and the surrounding landscape and to try the excellent short walks. On the trails, look for the thar, a goatlike creature and excellent climber; the chamois, smaller and of lighter build than the thar; and red deer. Summertime brings the large mountain buttercup (the Mt Cook lily), and mountain daisies, gentians and edelweiss.

Sights

SIR EDMUND HILLARY ALPINE CENTRE Museum, Planetarium

(www.hermitage.co.nz; The Hermitage; 1 movie adult/child $18/8, 6 movies adult/child/family $27/13.50/54; 7.30am-8.30pm) The centre includes a full-dome digital planetarium showing four different digital presentations, and a cinema screen showing the Mt Cook Magic 3D movie and a fascinating 75-minute documentary about Sir Ed’s conquest of Mt Everest.

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park

JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Activities

KEA POINT Tramping

The trail to Kea Point (two hours return from the village) is lined with native plant life and ends at a platform with excellent views of Mt Cook, the Hooker Valley and the ice faces of Mt Sefton and the Footstool.

HOOKER VALLEY Tramping

The walk up the Hooker Valley (three hours return) crosses a couple of swing bridges to Stocking Stream and the terminus of the Hooker Glacier. After the second swing bridge, Mt Cook totally dominates the valley.

TASMAN GLACIER VIEW TRACK Tramping

The Tasman Valley walks are popular for their views of the Tasman Glacier. Walks start at the end of the unsealed Tasman Valley Rd, 8km from the village. The Tasman Glacier View Track (50 minutes return) leads to a viewpoint on the moraine wall, passing the Blue Lakes (more green than blue these days) on the way.

GLACIER EXPLORERS Boat Tour

( 0800 686 800, 03-435 1809; www.glacierexplorers.com; per person $145) Heads out on the terminal lake of the Tasman Glacier.

MOUNT COOK SKI PLANES Scenic Flights

( 0800 800 702, 03-430 8034; www.mtcookskiplanes.com) Based at Mt Cook Airport, offering 40-minute (adult/child $405/295) and 55-minute (adult/child $530/405) flights, both with snow landings. Flightseeing without a landing is a cheaper option; try the 25-minute Mini Tasman trip (adult/child $275/255).

Sleeping

AORAKI/MT COOK ALPINE LODGE Lodge $$

( 03-435 1860; www.aorakialpinelodge.co.nz; Bowen Dr; d $159-189, tr & q $164, f $220-240; ) This modern lodge – with twin, double and family rooms – is the best place to stay in the village. With Turkish rugs and underfloor heating, the place ensures a warm welcome.

HERMITAGE Hotel $$$

( 0800 686 800, 03-435 1809; www.hermitage.co.nz; Terrace Rd; r $209-575; ) This sprawling complex has long monopolised Mt Cook accommodation in the village. Rooms in well-equipped A-frame chalets (double $269) sleep up to four and include a kitchen. Also available are motel units ($239) and refurbished rooms in various wings of the hotel proper. The higher-end hotel rooms are very smart indeed, and include cinematic views of Mt Cook through huge picture windows.

Eating & Drinking

OLD MOUNTAINEERS CAFÉ, BAR & RESTAURANT Cafe $$

(www.mtcook.com; Bowen Dr; lunch mains $17-24, dinner mains $22-35; ) Cosy in winter, with mountain views from outside tables in summer, this place delivers top-notch burgers, pizza, pasta and salad, and is a good-value alternative to the eateries at the Hermitage.

CHAMOIS BAR & GRILL Pub

Chamois Bar & Grill is upstairs in Mt Cook Backpackers, 500m from the YHA, where it entertains with a pool table, big-screen TV, and the occasional live gig.

Information

DOC Aoraki/Mt Cook Visitor Centre (Department of Conservation; 03-435 1186; www.doc.govt.nz; 1 Larch Gr; 8.30am-5pm Oct-Apr, to 4.30pm May-Sep) Advises on weather conditions, guided tours and tramping routes, and hires out beacons for trampers ($35).

Getting There & Away

InterCity (www.intercity.co.nz) links Mt Cook to Christchurch (five hours), Queenstown (four hours) and Wanaka (with a change in Tarras; 4¼ hours).

The Cook Connection ( 0800 266 526; www.cookconnect.co.nz) has services to Twizel (one hour) and Lake Tekapo (two hours). Bus services in these towns link to Christchurch, Queenstown, Wanaka and Dunedin.

If you’re driving, fill up at Lake Tekapo or Twizel.

THE WEST COAST

PAUL KENNEDY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Punakaiki & Paparoa National Park

Paparoa National Park is blessed with sea cliffs, a dramatic mountain range, gorgeous limestone river valleys, diverse flora and a Westland petrel colony, the world’s only nesting site of this rare sea bird.

Punakaiki is famous for its fantastic Pancake Rocks and blowholes. Through a layering-weathering process called stylobedding, the Dolomite Point limestone has formed into what looks like piles of thick pancakes. When the tide is high (tide times are posted at the visitor information centre), the sea surges into caverns and booms menacingly through blowholes. See it on a wild day and be reminded that Mother Nature really is the boss. An easy 15-minute walk loops from the highway out to the rocks and blowholes.

The Paparoa National Park visitor information centre and i-SITE has information on the park and track conditions, and handles bookings for local attractions and accommodation including hut tickets. See also www.punakaiki.co.nz.

NEED TO KNOW

Paparoa National Park visitor information centre and i-SITE ( 03-731 1895; www.doc.govt.nz; SH6; 9am-5pm Oct-Nov, to 6pm Dec-Mar, to 4.30pm Apr-Sep)

Greymouth

Welcome to the ‘Big Smoke’ of Westland. On the main road and rail route through Arthur’s Pass and across the Southern Alps from Christchurch, Greymouth sees its fair share of travellers. The town is well-geared to look after them, with all the necessary services and the odd tourist attraction, the most famous of which is Shantytown.

Sights & Activities

SHANTYTOWN Museum

(www.shantytown.co.nz; Rutherglen Rd, Paroa; adult/child/family $31.50/15.50/74; 8.30am-5pm) Eight kilometres south of Greymouth and 2km inland from SH6, Shantytown re-creates an 1860s gold-mining town, complete with steam-train rides, post office, pub and Rosie’s House of Ill Repute.

MONTEITH’S BREWING CO Guided Tour

(www.monteiths.co.nz; cnr Turumaha & Herbert Sts) By the time you read this, Monteith’s brand new brewery will be open: testatment to the power of a loyal public. Tours and tastings are available: ask for details at the i-SITE or just turn up at the front door.

Sleeping

ARDWYN HOUSE B&B $

( 03-768 6107; ardwynhouse@hotmail.com; 48 Chapel St; s/d incl breakfast from $55/85; ) This old-fashioned B&B nestles amid steep gardens on a quiet dead-end street. Mary, the well-travelled host, cooks a splendid breakfast.

COLERAINE MOTEL Motel $$

( 03-768 077, 0800 270 0027; www.colerainemotel.co.nz; 61 High St; d $152-225; ) Rattan furniture, spa baths and king-sized beds add up to the smartest luxury rooms in town. Cheaper one- and two-bedroom studios are not far behind. Extra-mile courtesy is shown in the provision of a communal guest lounge.

Eating & Drinking

DP:ONE CAFE Cafe $

(104 Mawhera Quay; meals $6-15; 9am-9pm; ) A stalwart of the Greymouth cafe scene, this hip cafe cups up the best espresso in town, along with good-value grub. Groovy NZ tunes, wi-fi, a relaxed vibe and quayside tables make this a great place for a meet-up to while away a grey day.

FRANK’S LATE NIGHT LOUNGE International $$

( 03-768 9075; 115 Mackay St; mains $19-28; 5pm-late Thu-Sat; ) This effortlessly cool, retro late-night lounge-bar-cafe is your best bet for getting a groove on. Art-deco architecture, eclectic decoration and excellent fresh food (including stellar fish dishes and salads) are just a few reasons to visit. Regular gigs, and it’s family friendly. Nice one, Frank.

Information

Greymouth i-SITE ( 03-768 5101; www.greydistrict.co.nz; Railway Station, 164 Mackay St; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun Nov-Apr, reduced hours May-Oct; )

Getting There & Around

Sharing the old railway station with the i-SITE, the West Coast Travel Centre ( 03-768 7080; www.westcoasttravel.co.nz; Railway Station, 164 Mackay St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun; ) books all forms of transport, including buses, trains and interisland ferries, and has luggage-storage facilities.

Bus

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) has daily buses north to Westport (from $17, two hours) and Nelson (from $40, six hours), and south to Franz Josef (from $29, 3½ hours) and Fox (from $31, 4¼ hours) Glaciers.

Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) runs north to Nelson and south to Queenstown stopping at Hokitika, Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers, Haast and Wanaka.

MERTEN SNIJDERS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

The TranzAlpine

The TranzAlpine is one of the world’s great train journeys, traversing the Southern Alps between Christchurch and Greymouth, from the Pacific Ocean to the Tasman Sea – a sequence of unbelievable landscapes. Leaving Christchurch at 8.15am, it speeds across the flat, alluvial Canterbury Plains to the Alps’ foothills. Here it enters a labyrinth of gorges and hills called the Staircase, a climb made possible by three large viaducts and a plethora of tunnels.

The train emerges into the broad Waimakariri and Bealey Valleys and (on a good day) the vistas from the new carriages with their panoramic windows are stupendous.

The western side is just as stunning, with the Otira, Taramakau and Grey River valleys, patches of podocarp forest, and the trout-filled Lake Brunner, fringed with cabbage trees. The train rolls into Greymouth at 12.45pm, heading back to Christchurch an hour later, arriving at 6.05pm.

This awesome journey is diminished only when the weather’s bad, but if it’s raining on one coast, it’s probably fine on the other.

NEED TO KNOW

0800 872 467, 03-768 7080; www.tranzscenic.co.nz; adult/child 1 way from $89/62

Atomic Shuttles (www.atomictravel.co.nz) runs daily to Queenstown ($70, 10½ hours) stopping at Hokitika (from $13, one hour), Franz Josef (from $30, 3½ hours) and Fox Glaciers (from $35, 4¼ hours), Haast ($65, 5¾ hours) and Wanaka ($65, nine hours). It also heads north daily to Nelson ($54, 6¼ hours) on the InterCity service, via Westport ($24, 2¾ hours).

Detour:

Okarito

Twenty-three kilometres north of Franz Josef is the Forks, the turn-off to the tiny seaside hamlet of Okarito, 11km further away on the coast. It sits alongside Okarito Lagoon, the largest unmodified wetland in NZ.

Okarito Nature Tours ( 0508 652 748, 03-753 4014; www.okarito.co.nz; kayak rental half/full day $55/65; ) hires out kayaks for paddles into the lagoon and up into the stunning rainforest channels where all sorts of birds hang out. Guided tours are available (from $75), and overnight rentals ($80) allow experienced paddlers to check out deserted North Beach or Lake Windemere.

The lagoon can also be explored with Okarito Boat Tours ( 03-753 4223; www.okaritoboattours.co.nz) on morning and afternoon sightseeing tours starting at $45.

Okarito Kiwi Tours ( 03-753 4330; www.okaritokiwitours.co.nz; 2-3hr tours $75) run nightly expeditions to spot the rare bird (95% success rate) with an interesting education along the way.

WESTLAND TAI POUTINI NATIONAL PARK

Literally the biggest highlights of the Westland Tai Poutini National Park are the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. Nowhere else at this latitude do glaciers come so close to the ocean.

Some say Franz Josef is the superior ice experience, and while it’s visually more impressive, the walk to Fox is shorter, more interesting and often gets you closer to the ice.

Franz Josef Glacier

The early Maori knew Franz Josef as Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere (Tears of the Avalanche Girl). Legend tells of a girl losing her lover who fell from the local peaks, and her flood of tears freezing into the glacier. The glacier is 5km from Franz Josef village; the terminal face is a 40-minute walk from the car park.

Sights & Activities

Independent Walks

Courtesy of DOC, the new Te Ara a Waiau Walkway/Cycleway provides pleasant rainforest trail access to the glacier car park. Pick up the track at the DOC Visitor Centre. It’s an hour each way to walk.

Several glacier viewpoints are accessed from the car park, including Sentinel Rock (20 minutes return) and the Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere Walk (1½ hours return), leading you to the terminal face (read the signs; respect the barriers).

Other longer walks include the Douglas Walk (one hour return), off the Glacier Access Rd, which passes moraine from the 1750 advance and Peter’s Pool, a small kettle lake. The Terrace Track (30 minutes return) is an easy amble over bushy terraces behind the village, with Waiho River views.

Guided Walks

Small-group walks with experienced guides (boots, jackets and equipment supplied) are offered by Franz Josef Glacier Guides ( 0800 484 337, 03-752 0763; www.franzjosefglacier.com). Half-/full-day walks are $123/180 per adult (slightly cheaper for children). Full-day trips have around six hours on the ice, half-day trips up to two hours.

Aerial Sightseeing

A 20-minute flight to the head of Franz Josef (or Fox Glacier) costs around $200. Flights past both of the glaciers and to Mt Cook cost from $300 to $380.

AIR SAFARIS Scenic Flights

( 03-752 0716, 0800 723 274; www.airsafaris.co.nz) Fixed wing.

MOUNTAIN HELICOPTERS Scenic Flights

( 0800 369 432, 03-752 0046; www.mountainhelicopters.co.nz)

Other Activities

WEST COAST WILDLIFE CENTRE Wildlife

(www.wildkiwi.co.nz; cnr Cron & Cowan Sts; day pass adult/child/family $25/15/75, backstage pass $20/15/60; ) This feel-good attraction ticks all the right boxes (exhibition, cafe and retail, wi-fi), then goes a whole lot further by actually breeding the rarest kiwi in the world, the rowi. The day-pass is well worthwhile by the time you’ve viewed the conservation, glacier and heritage displays, and hung out with real, live kiwi in their ferny enclosure.

GLACIER HOT POOLS Bathhouse

(www.glacierhotpools.co.nz; 63 Cron St; adult/child $23/16.50; noon-10pm) Setting a new standard for outdoor hot pools, this complex has been skilfully built within dense rainforest. Perfect après-hike or on a rainy day. Enjoy the communal pools, or private ones ($42 per 45 minutes) and massages ($85 per half-hour) if you want to really indulge.

SKYDIVE FRANZ Skydiving

( 0800 458 677, 03-752 0714; www.skydivefranz.co.nz; Main Rd) Claiming NZ’s highest jump (18,000ft, 75 seconds freefall, $549), this company also offers 15,000 for $399, and 12,000 for $299. With Aoraki/Mt Cook in your sights, this could be the most scenic jump you ever do.

Sleeping

TE WAONUI FOREST RETREAT Hotel $$$

( 0800 696 963, 03-752 0555; www.tewaonui.co.nz; 3 Wallace St; s/d $620/795; ) The damp, earthy surrounds and unflashy exterior of Franz’ fancy new hotel hide the fact that inside is porter service, degustation dinners (included, along with breakfast, in the price) and a snazzy bar. The interior is dark – there’s definitely a rainforest feel to the place – but you’ll sleep like a log in the luxurious beds, and appreciate the modern-styled rooms, all natural tones textured in wood and stone.

58 ON CRON Motel $$

( 0800 662 766, 03-752 0627; www.58oncron.co.nz; 58 Cron St; d $175-245; ) No prizes for the name, but this newish motel will impress with refreshed furnishings and all mod cons. A smart, clean, consistent performer.

GLENFERN VILLAS Apartments $$$

( 0800 453 633, 03-752 0054; www.glenfern.co.nz; SH6; d $210-266; ) A handy 3km out of the tourist hubbub, these delightful one- and two-bedroom villas sit amid nikau palms and have top-notch beds, full kitchens, and private decks with views. This is the sort of place that says ‘holiday’, not ‘stop-off’.

Eating & Drinking

ALICE MAY Modern Nz $$

(cnr Cowan & Cron Sts; mains $18-33; 4pm-late) Resembling an old staging post, this sweet dining room serves up meaty, home-style meals such as pork ribs and venison casserole. Park yourself outside and enjoy mountain views and bar snacks during happy hour (4pm to 7pm).

Inside an ice cave, Fox Glacier;

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

SPEIGHTS LANDING BAR & RESTAURANT Pub $$

(SH6; mains $19-39; 7.30am-late) A slighty frenzied but well-run pub serving up mega-portions of crowd-pleasing food; think big burgers, steaks and pizzas. The patio – complete with heaters and umbrellas – is a good place to unwind after a day on the ice.

Information

Scott Base Tourist Information Centre ( 03-752 0288; SH6; 9am-9pm; )

Westland Tai Poutini National Park Visitor Centre & i-SITE ( 03-752 0796; www.glaciercountry.co.nz; SH6; 8.30am-6pm Oct-Apr, to 5pm May-Sep) Regional DOC office with good exhibits, weather information and track updates.

Getting There & Around

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) has daily buses south to Fox Glacier (from $10, 35 minutes) and Queenstown (from $62, eight hours); and north to Nelson (from $56, 10 hours).

Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) has services Sunday to Thursday south to Queenstown ($50, 6½ hours) via Fox Glacier ($15, 35 minutes), and north to Greymouth ($30, four hours). Book at the Scott Base Tourist Information Centre.

Glacier Valley Eco Tours ( 03-752 0699, 0800 999 739; www.glaciervalley.co.nz) runs scheduled shuttle services to the glacier car park (return trip $12.50).

Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) runs north to Hokitika, Greymouth and Nelson, and south to Fox Glacier.

Mt Cook and Lake Matheson (Click here   )

ANDERS BLOMQVIST / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Fox Glacier

Fox is smaller and quieter than Franz Josef, with a farmy feel and more open aspect. Beautiful Lake Matheson is a highlight, as is the beach and historic walk down at Gillespies Beach.

Sights & Activities

Glacier Valley Walks

It’s 1.5km from Fox Village to the glacier turn-off, and a further 2km to the car park. Thanks to DOC you can now reach the car park under your own steam via the new Te Weheka Walkway/Cycleway, a pleasant rainforest trail starting just south of the Bella Vista motel.

From the car park, the terminal face is 30 to 40 minutes’ walk. How close you can get to it depends on conditions. Obey all signs: this place is dangerously dynamic.

Short walks near the glacier include the Moraine Walk (over a major 18th-century advance) and Minnehaha Walk. The River Walk extends to the Chalet Lookout Track (1½ hours return) leading to a glacier lookout. The fully accessible River Walk Lookout Track (20 minutes return) starts from the Glacier View Rd car park and allows people of all abilities the chance to view the glacier.

Guided walks (equipment provided) are organised by Fox Glacier Guiding ( 0800 111 600, 03-751 0825; www.foxguides.co.nz; 44 Main Rd). Half-day walks cost $115/95 per adult/child; full-day walks are $165 (over-13s only). There are also easy-going two-hour interpretive walks to the glacier (adult/child $49/35).

Skydiving & Aerial Sightseeing

With Fox Glacier’s backdrop of Southern Alps, rainforest and ocean, it’s hard to imagine a better place to jump out of a plane. Skydive Glacier Country ( 03-751 0080, 0800 751 0080; www.skydivingnz.co.nz; Fox Glacier Airfield, SH6) is a professional outfit that challenges Isaac Newton, with thrilling leaps from 16,000ft ($399) or 12,000ft ($299). Also try Fox & Franz Josef Heliservices ( 03-751 0866, 0800 800 793; www.scenic-flights.co.nz) for a bird's-eye view.

Other Sights & Activities

LAKE MATHESON Lake

The famous ‘mirror lake’ can be found about 6km down Cook Flat Rd. Taken slowly (as it should be), the circuit takes 1½ hours to complete. At the far end – on a clear day – you may get the money shot, but failing that you can buy a postcard at the excellent gift store in the car park.

Large ice blocks at Fox Glacier

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Sleeping & Eating

FOX GLACIER LODGE B&B $$$

( 0800 369 800, 03-751 0888; www.foxglacierlodge.com; 41 Sullivan Rd; d $195-225; ) Beautiful timber adorns the exterior and interior of this attractive property, imparting a mountain chalet vibe. Similarly woody self-contained mezzanine apartments with spa baths are also available.

WESTHAVEN Motel $$

( 0800 369 452, 03-751 0084; www.thewesthaven.co.nz; SH6; d $125-185; ) These architecturally precise suites are a classy combo of corrugated steel and local stone amid burnt red and ivory walls. The deluxe king rooms have spas, and there are bikes to hire for the energetic (half/full day $20/40).

MATHESON CAFÉ Modern Nz $$

(www.lakematheson.com; Lake Matheson Rd; breakfast & lunch $9-19, dinner $24-36; 7.30am-late Nov-Mar, 8am-4pm Apr-Oct) Near the shores of Lake Matheson, this cafe does everything right: slick interior design, inspiring mountain views, strong coffee and upmarket Kiwi fare. Get your sketchpad out and while away the afternoon. Next door is the ReflectioNZ Gallery stocking quality, primarily NZ-made art and souvenirs.

Information

Department of Conservation South Westland Weheka Area Office (DOC; 03-751 0807; SH6; 9am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri) This is no longer a general visitor information centre, but has the usual DOC information, hut tickets and weather/track updates.

Fox Glacier Guiding ( 0800 111 600, 03-751 0825; www.foxguides.co.nz; 44 Main Rd) Books Atomic Shuttles, and provides postal and currency-exchange services.

Getting There & Around

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) runs two buses a day north to Franz Josef (from $10), the morning bus continuing to Nelson (from $57). Daily southbound services run to Queenstown (from $58).

Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) runs daily services to Franz Josef ($15), continuing to Greymouth (from $35). Southbound buses run daily to Queenstown ($45).

Fox Glacier Shuttles & Tours ( 0800 369 287) will drive you to destinations such as Lake Matheson, Gillsepies Beach, the glaciers or beyond (from $10 return).

Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) runs north to Franz Josef Glacier, Hokitika, Greymouth, Westport and Nelson, and south to Queenstown, stopping at Haast and Wanaka.

Queenstown & the South

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QUEENSTOWN & THE SOUTH

QUEENSTOWN & THE SOUTH’S HIGHLIGHTS

QUEENSTOWN & THE SOUTH’S BEST…

NEED TO KNOW

QUEENSTOWN & THE SOUTH ITINERARIES

DISCOVER QUEENSTOWN & THE SOUTH

Queenstown Region

Wanaka Region

Dunedin & Otago

Southland

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Queenstown & the South

With a cinematic background of mountains and lakes you actually might have seen in the movies, and a ‘what can we think of next’ array of adventure activities, it’s little wonder Queenstown tops many travellers’ Kiwi itineraries.

You can slow down (slightly) in Wanaka, Queenstown’s junior cousin, which also has good bars and outdoor adventures on tap.

To the east, Otago is overflowing with picturesque scenery. The region’s historic heart is Dunedin, with excellent restaurants and cafes, and a vibrant student-based culture. If you’re seeking wildlife, head to the Otago Peninsula, where penguins, albatross, sea lions and seals are easily sighted.

The bottom end of the South Island offers some of the country’s most spectacular landscapes: Fiordland National Park, with jagged, misty peaks, glistening lakes and Milford and Doubtful Sounds; and the peaceful Catlins, showcasing bird-rich native forests and a rugged, windswept coastline.

Lake Te Anau (Click here)

JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Queenstown & the South

Glenorchy

Fiordland

Skiing & Snowboarding

Milford Track

Dunedin

Wanaka

Otago Peninsula

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Queenstown & the South’s Highlights

Glenorchy Area

Blessed with good weather, the area around Glenorchy, northwest of Queenstown on Lake Wakatipu, has magical, end-of-the-world appeal. With majestic mountains and laconic locals, the area was a holiday destination long before the road arrived from Queenstown in 1962: before then, access was along the lake by boat.

Glenorchy boathouse

ED NORTON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Need to Know

ACTIVITIES Tramping, swimming, kayaking, horse treks, jetboating, fishing BEST TIME TO VISIT Summer days for tramping; winter for magical snows For further coverage, Click here

Glenorchy Area Don’t Miss List

BY JANE CAMPION, FILM DIRECTOR AND SCREENWRITER

1 GLENORCHY

Glenorchy offers jetboating on the Dart River (Click here) and coffee and home-baked bread at the Glenorchy Café (Click here), but the best thing to do is to take yourself on a bush walk. I recommend the two-hour loop to Lake Sylvan: it’s a fairly short walk for this scale of landscape, but it immediately gives you a sense of the delight and intimacy of the bush. And the lake is phenomenal for swimming!

CHRISTA KNIJFF / ALAMY ©

2 LAKE RERE WALK

My favourite day walk in the area is Lake Rere (Click here), a loop walk from Greenstone about an hour from Glenorchy. The walk takes about five hours, but allow six or seven to picnic at the lake, a magical place where I am yet to see a sand fly (both the curse and protector of this area: reasonably rare in Glenorchy, they proliferate in the bush).

3 ROUTEBURN TRACK

The legendary, four-day Routeburn Track (Click here) also starts near Glenorchy. The track here is very well maintained – a highway for walkers. For a day walk, go about 2½ hours in to the flats and loll about amid the yellow tussocks.

JOHN BORTHWICK / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

4 HORSE TREKKING

Horse treks at Dart Stables (Click here) here are excellent – the horses are well cared for, and the landscape is magnificent. I had a horse as a kid, so organised treks are a little bit tame for me, but I have ridden the Dart River horses on some stunning rides along the riverbanks.

5 PLACES TO STAY

My favourite place to stay up here is Paradise (Click here), which has some extremely low-tech, genuinely old huts; the best is called ‘Eden’. There’s no electricity – it’s all candles and wood-fire cookers. There are deer in the hills and glow-worms to inspect. Kinloch Lodge (Click here), a fantastic place across the lake, has all sorts of accommodation, from backpackers to en-suite rooms. The food here is wonderful – unexpected for such a remote place.

Fiordland

Fiordland is a bit like Timbuktu: lots of people know it’s there, but they’re not sure what it’s all about. It’s so diverse and across such a large area. If the weather’s fine, an aerial overview is the best way to see it, but boat trips, road journeys and tramping are also really good.

Mitre Peak, Milford Sound (Click here   )

MICAH WRIGHT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Need to Know

PHOTO OP Mitre Peak rising over Milford Sound ACTIVITIES Tramping, scenic flights, sea kayaking, jetboating BEST TIME TO VISIT Summer For further coverage, Click here

Fiordland Don’t Miss List

BY KIM HOLLOWS, HELICOPTER PILOT

1 MILFORD SOUND

Dominated by Mitre Peak, iconic Milford Sound (Click here) has a real steepness about it. It’s the best known of Fiordland’s sounds, largely due to the fact that it’s the only fiord you can access by road. It’s also the end point of the famous Milford Track (Click here), which sees around 14,000 hikers a year. Kayaking or boating on the Sound is a great day out.

Waterfall on Milford Track (Click here   )

IGNACIO PALACIOS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

2 DOUBTFUL SOUND

A superb wilderness area, Doubtful Sound (Click here) is a broad, open waterway. The sound’s name dates back to 1770, when Captain Cook spied it from the coast: he was ‘doubtful’ whether the winds in the sound would be sufficient to blow his ship back out to sea. You can only visit the sound on a tour, many of which depart from Manapouri.

3 TUATAPERE HUMP RIDGE TRACK

It’s a very exposed piece of real estate down there, but the three-day/two-night Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track (Click here) is a unique way to experience Fiordland’s forests, geology and coastline. It’s really growing in popularity, and is a real credit to the Hump Ridge Trust: what they’ve achieved in developing the track is fantastic.

Cruise boat on Doubtful Sound

MICAH WRIGHT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

4 FIORDLAND’S UNIQUE WEATHER

In Fiordland, we’re at the whim of a large expanse of ocean from the polar cap – we certainly get climatic extremes. However, the mountains actually create two different weather patterns: it can be raining in Milford Sound but fine in Te Anau, where we actually get less rain than in Auckland.

Ski the South

The Southern Alps jag up high and mighty down here, and with rain-weighty clouds streaming in from the Tasman Sea, expect plenty of winter snow. Queenstown (Click here) has, of course, long been a hot spot for powder-hounds. Coronet Peak and the Remarkables are the main ski spots near here, but there’s also Treble Cone and Cardrona, and great Nordic (cross-country) and snowboarding near Wanaka (Click here).

Coronet Peak (Click here   )

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Milford Track

Wandering into the rain-hazed wilderness mightn’t be on your hit-list if you’re only in NZ for a few weeks… But trust us, the Milford Track (Click here) in photogenic Fiordland National Park will linger in your memories for years to come. Not convinced? Take the drive from Te Anau to Milford (Click here) and see what we’re talking about: all around are mountains, forests and mirror-perfect waterways. It’s even beautiful in the rain!

ANDREW BAIN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Dunedin After Dark

Dunedin’s nocturnal bar, pub and live-music scene (Click here) is much cooler and more progressive than you’d expect in a small city at this latitude. Actually, given the vast numbers of students living here, maybe you would expect it… But either way, you’ll be able to find lots of grungy pub rock, plus reggae, dub and chilled-out house resonating off the stage, all washed down with quality southern micro- and macrobrewed beers.

DAVID WALL / ALAMY ©

Wanaka

Queenstown gets the publicity for its bungy jumps, après-ski nightlife and ritzy restaurants, but Wanaka (Click here), about 120km to the northwest, is just as hip without the hype. The extreme activities are all here: jetboating, rafting, skydiving, paragliding, plus there are some cool places to stay, great eateries and even a little art-house cinema. Wanaka rocks!

NOBLEIMAGES / ALAMY ©

Otago Peninsula

Like a Jackson Pollock paint spillage on the map, the Otago Peninsula (Click here) makes a brilliant day trip from Dunedin. Jump in a rental car and meander around the convoluted bays, headlands and inlets. En route you can check out some southern wildlife – royal albatrosses, sea lions and yellow-eyed penguins are all here, happily soaring, grunting and waddling.

Taiaroa Head (Click here   )

GRANT DIXON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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Queenstown & the South’s Best…

Wild Rides

»Queenstown bungy jumping (Click here) The original is still the best

»Wanaka paragliding (Click here) Float down off the top of Treble Cone under a paraglide plume

»Otago Central Rail Trail (Click here) Mountain bike 150km through the Otago countryside, with plenty of interesting detours and B&B pit stops

»Helicopter sightseeing (Click here) Sound-out Milford Sound from above

Snow Zones

»Coronet Peak (Click here) Queenstown region’s oldest ski field…also has night skiing!

»The Remarkables (Click here) Downhill for all comers; tackle the remarkable, sweeping ‘Homeward Bound’ run

»Snow Park (Click here) New Zealand’s only dedicated freestyle ski and snowboard area

»Snow Farm New Zealand (Click here) Spectacular cross-country (Nordic) skiing high above Lake Wanaka

Urban Moments

»Eating out in Queenstown (Click here) From fine dining to perfect pizza, Queenstown serves it up

»Tune-in to Dunedin (Click here) The live-music scene in Dunedin is pumping

»Art-house cinema (Click here) Fab flicks at duelling art-house cinemas in Wanaka

»Caffeine fix (Click here) Dunedin’s cool cafes keep the southern chills at bay

Tramping by the Remarkables (Click here)

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Natural Splendours

»Milford Sound (Click here) Tranquil, reflective, serene… We hope your cruise boat is quiet!

»Doubtful Sound (Click here) Like Milford, but much bigger with less tourists

»Otago Peninsula (Click here) Wildlife havens and harbour inlets near Dunedin

»The Catlins (Click here) Compact wilderness with waterfalls, forests and wild coast

Skiing at Coronet Peak (Click here)

WILL SALTER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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Need to Know

ADVANCE PLANNING

»One month before Book internal flights, car hire and accommodation (especially in summer around Milford Sound, and in Queenstown and Wanaka during ski season)

»Two weeks before Book a cruise or a kayak on Milford Sound or Doubtful Sound, or a tour through the underrated Catlins

»One week before Book a death-defying bungy jump in Queenstown, check www.dunedinmusic.co.nz to see who’s rocking Dunedin, and reserve a table for a top-shelf dinner in Queenstown

RESOURCES

»Queenstown i-SITE (www.queenstownnz.co.nz)

»Queenstown Department of Conservation Visitor Centre (www.doc.govt.nz, queenstownvc@doc.govt.nz)

»Lake Wanaka i-SITE (www.lakewanaka.co.nz)

»Dunedin i-SITE (www.dunedinnz.com)

»Otago Daily Times (www.odt.co.nz) Your best news and current-affairs source down south

»Ski & Snowboard new Zealand (www.brownbearski.co.nz) Online info for all the southern ski resorts

GETTING AROUND

»Cruise Across the mirror-flat waters of Milford Sound

»Drive Along the superscenic Te Anau–Milford Hwy (keep at least one hand on the wheel as you snap photos)

»Sea kayak Around the shores of Doubtful Sound

»Minibus Through the Catlins on a guided tour

»Hike Along the 53.5km Milford Track

BE FOREWARNED

»Queenstown in Summer Sure, Queenstown is a happening ski town, but don’t arrive in summer expecting to have the pace all to yourself: mountain bikers and hikers are here in their hundreds. Accommodation books out and prices rocket during both seasons; book well in advance

»Royal Albatross Centre, Otago Peninsula No viewing mid-September to late November; limited sightings late November to December

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Queenstown & the South Itineraries

Everyone in Queenstown is from somewhere else. They’re all here to bungy jump, jetboat, ski and party. Beyond ‘QT’ are the sublime wilderness areas of Fiordland and the Catlins, with student-cool Dunedin to the east.

QUEENSTOWN TO MILFORD SOUND

QUEENSTOWN & AROUND

Kick-start your (1) Queenstown experience with a hefty breakfast at Vudu Cafe & Larder, then devote the day to bungy jumping, hang gliding, downhill skiing, paragliding, skydiving, mountain biking, white-water rafting…whichever white-knuckle ride suits your mood (or season). In the evening, chow down at Fishbone Bar & Grill (how can seafood this far inland be so good?), then head to Atlas Beer Cafe for some mellow tunes and a nocturnal tipple.

On day two, take things a bit more slowly with a leisurely hot-air balloon flight, an indulgent cellar-door tour of the nearby (2) Gibbston Valley wineries, or a visit to the local shops and Chinese settlement in (3) Arrowtown. Alternatively, drive around Lake Wakatipu to tiny (4) Glenorchy for lunch at the Glenorchy Café and a short walk in the area.

Get up early on day three and prep yourself for a real highlight: a boat cruise across the hushed, mesmerising waters of (5) Milford Sound is an experience that will have you reaching for your camera (if you haven’t already filled your memory card along the (6) Te Anau–Milford Highway).

Hollyford River, Fiordland (Click here)

JOHN BORTHWICK / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

MILFORD SOUND TO OTAGO PENINSULA

THE SOUNDS OF SILENCE

Fiordland National Park is just so darn pure … Do places like this really still exist?

South of (1) Milford Sound the coastline fractures: (2) Doubtful Sound is one of Fiordland’s biggest and most spectacular sounds, with waterfalls, thick forest and glass-flat waters. Book a cruise, overnight adventure or kayaking trip.

Backtrack for an evening in laid-back (3) Te Anau, or drive further for a night’s drinking and carousing in (4) Queenstown or an art-house movie in (5) Wanaka.

Veering back southeast into Southland for a day or two, explore the beautiful, lonesome (6) Catlins region, either on a tour or under your own steam.

Trundle north to (7) Dunedin for some reggae, rock and coffee (the three pillars of modern civilisation). If the sun is shining, surfing at the local (8) St Clair and St Kilda beaches is awesome! Warm up afterwards at a Dunedin cafe, then lurch into the night for some bar-hopping and live tunes.

On day five, day-trip to (9) Otago Peninsula east of Dunedin, exploring little beaches and fishing towns and ogling fur seals, penguins and seabirds up close.

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Discover Queenstown & the South

At a Glance

»Queenstown & Wanaka (Click here and Click here) Savvy ski towns.

»Dunedin & Otago (Click here and Click here) Students, albatrosses, coffee and mountain-bike tracks – what’s not to like?

»Fiordland & Southland (Click here and Click here) Fiordland is a bit like a virginal Norway, while unpretentious Southland has a rich Scottish heritage (listen for the rolling ‘r’ accent).

Skyline Gondola, Queenstown

GERARD WALKER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

QUEENSTOWN REGION

Queenstown

Queenstown

Top Sights

Skyline Gondola C2

Activities, Courses & Tours

1 Frisbee Golf D4

Ledge Bungy (see 2)

Ledge Sky Swing (see 2)

Queenstown Bike Park (see 2)

2  Tandem Paragliding B1

Sleeping

3  Amity Lodge E3

4 Chalet Queenstown B&B E3

5  Coronation Lodge D3

6 Historic Stonehouse E2

Entertainment

Kiwi Haka (see 2)

No one’s ever visited Queenstown and said, ‘I’m bored’. Looking like a small town, but with the energy of a small city, Queenstown offers a mountain of activities.

Maximise bragging rights in the town’s atmospheric restaurants, laid-back cafes and bustling bars.

Sights

SKYLINE GONDOLA Cable Car

(www.skyline.co.nz; Brecon St; adult/child/family return $25/14/71) Hop on the Gondola for fantastic views. At the top are a cafe, a restaurant with regular Maori cultural shows (Click here), and souvenir shops. Walking trails include the loop track (30 minutes return), or try the Luge or new mountain-bike trails.

KIWI BIRDLIFE PARK Wildlife

Offline map Google map

(www.kiwibird.co.nz; Brecon St; adult/child $38/19; 9am-5pm, shows 11am & 3pm) Here’s your best bet to spy a kiwi. There are also 10,000 native plants and scores of birds, including the rare black stilt, kea, morepork and parakeets. Stroll around, watch the conservation show, and tiptoe into darkened kiwi houses.

Central Queenstown

Sights

1 Kiwi Birdlife Park A1

Activities, Courses & Tours

2 Double-Decker Bus Tour C2

3  Kawarau Jet C4

4  Real Journeys A4

5  Vertigo B3

Sleeping

6  Lomond Lodge A3

7  The Dairy A2

Eating

8  @Thai D3

9  Bella Cucina B3

10 Botswana Butchery D4

11  Fergburger B3

12  Fishbone Bar & Grill C2

13  Vudu Cafe & Larder B3

Drinking

14  Atlas Beer Cafe A4

15  Ballarat Trading Company C3

16  Bardeaux C3

17  Pub on Wharf B4

Entertainment

18  Dux de Lux D4

19  Subculture D4

Activities

Purchase discounted combination tickets from Queenstown Combos ( 03-442 7318, 0800 423 836; www.combos.co.nz).

Bungy Jumping

Queenstown is famous for bungy jumping and AJ Hackett Bungy ( 03-442 7100; www.bungy.co.nz; The Station, cnr Camp & Shotover Strs) is the activity’s best-known representative. Prices include transport out of town and gonola rides where relevant.

KAWARAU BRIDGE Bungy

(per person $180) The historic 1880 Kawarau Bridge, 23km from Queenstown, became the world’s first commercial bungy site in 1988 and allows you to leap 43m.

LEDGE BUNGY Bungy

(per person $180) The 47m-high Ledge Bungy also operates after dark.

NEVIS HIGHWIRE Bungy

(per person $260) Jump from a 134m-high pod above the Nevis River.

Jetboating

SHOTOVER JET Jetboating

( 0800 746 868; www.shotoverjet.co.nz; adult/child $119/69) Half-hour trips through the rocky Shotover Canyons, with lots of thrilling 360-degree spins.

KAWARAU JET Jetboating

( 0800 529 272, 03-442 6142; www.kjet.co.nz; Queenstown Bay Jetty; adult/child $110/65) Does one-hour trips on the Kawarau and Lower Shotover Rivers.

SKIPPERS CANYON JET Jetboating

( 0800 226 996, 03-442 9434; www.skipperscanyon.co.nz; adult/child $129/79) Includes a 30-minute blast in the narrow gorges of Skippers Canyon in three-hour trips that also cover the region’s gold-mining history.

White-Water Rafting

QUEENSTOWN RAFTING Rafting

( 03-442 9792, 0800 723 8464; www.rafting.co.nz; rafting/helirafting $195/279) One of the most established rafting companies.

EXTREME GREEN RAFTING Rafting

( 03-442 8517; www.nzraft.com; rafting/helirafting $195/279) Trips on both the Kawarau and Shotover rivers.

FAMILY ADVENTURES Rafting

( 03-442 8836, 0800 4723 8464; www.familyadventures.co.nz; adult/child $179/120; summer) Gentler (Grade I to II) trips on the Shotover suitable for children three years and older.

WILL SALTER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Mountain-Biking Mecca

With the opening of the Queenstown Bike Park, the region is now firmly established as an international focus for the sport. See also www.wakatiputrails.co.nz for details on the ongoing development of new mountain-bike trails around the area.

The Queenstown Trail More than 90km in total – links five scenic smaller trails showcasing Queenstown, Arrowtown, the Gibbston Valley, Lake Wakatipu and Lake Hayes. Overall the trail is technically easy and suitable for cyclists of all levels.

Queenstown Bike Park ( 03-441 0101; www.skyline.co.nz; Brecon St; half-day pass adult/child/family $45/25/115, day pass adult/child/family $60/30/150) Nine different trails – from easy to extreme – traverse Bob’s Peak high above the lake. Once you’ve descended on two wheels, simply jump on the gondola and do it all over again. The best trail for novice riders is the 6km-long Hammy’s Track, studded with lake views and picnic spots all the way down.

Vertigo ( 0800 837 8446, 03-442 8378; www.vertigobikes.co.nz; 4 Brecon St; rental per day from $79) Options include downhill rides into Skippers Canyon ($169) and a Remarkables helibike option ($399).

Fat Tyre Adventures ( 0800 328 897; www.fat-tyre.co.nz; from $199) Tours cater to different abilities with day tours, multiday tours, helibiking and singletrack riding. Bike hire and trail snacks are included.

Flying, Gliding & Skydiving

TANDEM PARAGLIDING Paragliding

( 0800 759 688, 03-441 8581; www.nzgforce.com; per person $199) Tandem paragliding from the top of the gondola or from Coronet Peak (9am departures are $20 cheaper).

SKYTREK HANG GLIDING Hang Gliding

( 0800 759 873; www.skytrek.co.nz; from $210) Soar on tandem flights from Coronet Peak or the Remarkables.

NZONE Skydiving

( 03-442 5867, 0800 376 796; www.nzone.biz; from $269) Jump out of an airplane with a tandem skydiving expert.

Skiing & Snowboarding

CORONET PEAK

( 03-450 1970; www.nzski.com; daily lift pass adult/child $95/52) Snow-making systems and treeless slopes provide excellent skiing and snowboarding for all levels.

THE REMARKABLES

( 03-450 1970, www.nzski.com; daily lift pass adult/child $91/49) This ski field is 28km from Queenstown, with shuttle buses in ski season. It has a good set of intermediate and advanced runs (only 10% beginner).

Tramping

Pick up the Wakatipu Walks brochure ($2) from DOC for local tramping tracks ranging from one-hour strolls to eight-hour slogs.

QUEENSTOWN HILL Walking

A short climb is up 900m Queenstown Hill (two to three hours return). Access is from Belfast Tce.

ENCOUNTER GUIDED DAY WALKS Tramping

( 03-442 8200; www.ultimatehikes.co.nz; Routeburn Track: adult/child $145/85, Milford Track: adult/child $165/95, Mt Cook: adult/child $105/65; Oct-Apr) Day walks on the Routeburn Track, the Milford Track and near Mt Cook, as well as multiday tramps.

GUIDED NATURE WALKS Walking

( 03-442 7126; www.nzwalks.com; adult/child from $105/65) Excellent walks in the Queenstown area, including a Walk and Wine option and snow-shoeing in winter.

Tours

OVER THE TOP HELICOPTERS Scenic Flights

( 0800 123 359, 03-442 2233; www.flynz.co.nz; from $265) Queenstown and beyond.

SUNRISE BALLOONS Scenic Flights

( 0800 468 247; 03-442 0781; www.ballooningnz.com; adult/child $445/295) One-hour rides including a champagne breakfast.

NOMAD SAFARIS 4Wd Tour

( 0800 688 222, 03-442 6699; www.nomadsafaris.co.nz; adult/child from $130/65) Trips take in stunning scenery and hard-to-get-to backcountry around Skippers Canyon and Macetown. The operators will let you drive ($260), or ride a quad-bike ($245).

QUEENSTOWN WINE TRAIL Wine Tour

( 03-441 3990, 0800 827 8464; www.queenstownwinetrail.co.nz; adult $129, shorter tour with lunch $148) Choose from a five-hour tour with tastings at four wineries or a shorter tour with lunch included.

Sleeping

THE DAIRY B&B $$$

( 03-442 5164, 0800 333 393; www.thedairy.co.nz; 10 Isle St; s/d incl breakfast from $435/465, Jun-Aug 3-night packages d $900-990; ) Once a corner store, the Dairy is now a luxury B&B with 13 rooms packed with classy touches like designer bed linen, silk cushions and luxurious mohair rugs. Rates also include freshly baked afternoon tea.

CHALET QUEENSTOWN B&B B&B $$$

Offline map Google map

( 0800 222 457, 03-442 7117; www.chaletqueenstown.co.nz; 1 Dublin St; d $195-225; ) This chic and friendly B&B is one of the best boutique accommodation options in Queenstown. Perfectly appointed rooms sparkle with flat-screen TVs, interesting original artworks and quality bed linen. Book well ahead to secure one of the rooms with a lake view – easily one of the best vistas in town.

AMITY LODGE Motel $$

( 0800 556 000; www.amitylodge.co.nz; 7 Melbourne St; d from $165; ) In a quiet street around five minutes’ (uphill) walk from central Queenstown, Amity Lodge combines older, but recently renovated units, and more comfortable and modern two-bedroom units. The friendly owners are a wealth of local information, and in an expensive destination, Amity Lodge is good value.

HISTORIC STONEHOUSE Apartments $$$

Offline map Google map

( 03-442 9812; www.historicstonehouse.co.nz; 47 Hallenstein St; d $225-395; ) One of Queenstown’s loveliest old private residences – built in 1874 – now houses three very comfortable self-contained apartments. Formerly the mayor’s digs, the apartments are surrounded by established gardens and trimmed with antique furniture and a heritage vibe.

CORONATION LODGE Motel $$

( 0800 420 777, 03-442 0860; www.coronationlodge.co.nz; 10 Coronation Dr; d $150-220; ) Right beside the Queenstown Gardens, this lodge has plush bed linen, cosy wooden floors, and Turkish rugs. In a town that’s somewhat lacking in good midrange accommodation, Coronation Lodge is recommended. Larger rooms have kitchenettes, and some of Queenstown’s best restaurants and bars are a short stroll downhill.

If You Like...

Bungy Jumping

If you like hurling yourself off high platforms into godless oblivion, try these variations on the bungy theme around Queenstown:

1 SHOTOVER CANYON SWING

( 0800 279 464, 03-442 6990; www.canyonswing.co.nz; per person $199, additional swings $39) Be released loads of different ways – backwards, in a chair, upside down... From there it’s a 60m free fall and a wild swing across the canyon at 150km/h.

2 NEVIS ARC

( 0800 286 4958; www.nevisarc.co.nz) Fly in tandem ($320) or go it alone ($180) on the planet’s highest swing.

3 LEDGE SKY SWING

( 0800 286 4958; www.bungy.co.nz; $150) The Ledge offers a shorter swing than at the Nevis Arc, but equally stunning views of Queenstown.

LITTLE PARADISE LODGE Lodge $$

( 03-442 6196; www.littleparadise.co.nz; Glenorchy-Queenstown Rd; s $45, d $120-160; ) Wonderfully eclectic, this slice of arty paradise is the singular vision of the Swiss owner. Each rustic room features wooden floors, quirky artwork and handmade furniture. Outside the fun continues with a back-to-nature swimming hole and well-crafted walkways along a nearby hillside.

LOMOND LODGE Lodge $$

( 03-442 8235; www.lomondlodge.com; 33 Man St; d $138-169; ) A recent makeover has modernised Lomond Lodge’s cosy decor. Share your on-the-road stories with fellow travellers in the communal kitchen and around the garden barbecue. Larger family apartments ($270 for up to four people) are also available.

Eating

FISHBONE BAR & GRILL Seafood $$

( 03-442 6768; www.fishbonequeenstown.co.nz; 7 Beach St; mains $26-32) Queenstown’s more than a few miles inland, but that doesn’t stop Fishbone from sourcing the best of NZ seafood. Everything from scallops to snapper is treated with a light and inventive touch. Try the zingy prawn tacos on handmade tortillas or the robust South Indian–style seafood curry.

VUDU CAFE & LARDER Cafe $

(16 Rees St; mains $10-18) Excellent home-style baking – try the pork and fennel sausage rolls or the delicate minipavlovas – features at this cosmopolitan cafe. Top-notch breakfast and lunch options include buttermilk pancakes and a cheesy quesadilla. Check out the huge photo inside of a much less-populated Queenstown, or head through to the rear garden for lake and mountain views.

BELLA CUCINA Italian $$

( 03-442 6762; www.bellacucina.co.nz; 6 Brecon St; pizza & pasta $29, mains $29-34; 5pm-late) Fresh pasta and risotto are highlights at Bella Cucina, while the rustic woodfired pizzas are perfect for sharing. Beautifully simple food done just right and a perfectly concise wine list, all served in one of Queenstown’s cosiest and most romantic dining rooms.

@THAI Thai $$

(www.atthai.co.nz; 3rd fl, 8 Church St; mains $16-24) Head up the semi-hidden set of stairs for pad thai worth writing home about, and the hor-mok seafood red curry will blow your mind. Definitely kick off your meal with the coconut prawns ($12) and an icy Singha beer.

FERGBURGER Burgers $

(www.fergburger.com; 42 Shotover St; burgers $10-17; 8.30am-5am) Queenstown’s iconic Fergburger has now become a tourist attraction in itself, forcing a few locals to look elswhere for their regular gourmet burger fix. Ferg’s was the innovative original in town though, and an international bunch of travellers of all ages still crowd in for their burger fix.

Drinking

ATLAS BEER CAFE Craft Beer

(Steamer Wharf, Beach St; 10am-2am) Perched at the end of Steamer Wharf this pint-sized bar speclalises in beers from Dunedin’s Emerson’s Brewery and regular guest beers from further afield. A concise but tasty food menu includes good-value sandwiches and wraps for lunch (around $10), and shared plates and tapas ($10 to $15) for dinner.

BALLARAT TRADING COMPANY Pub

(www.ballarat.co.nz; 7-9 The Mall) Stuffed bears, rampant wall-mounted ducks and a recreated colonial general store – there’s really no competition for the title of Queenstown’s most eclectic decor. Beyond the grab bag of infuences, Ballarat’s gastro pub combo is quite a traditional spot, with gleaming beer taps, occasional lapses into 1980s music, and robust meals, including confit duck leg, lamb pie, burgers and steaks.

PUB ON WHARF Pub

(www.pubonwharf.co.nz; Steamer Wharf) Ubercool interior design combines with handsome woodwork and lighting fit for a hipster hideaway. Stuffed animal heads reinforce you’re still in NZ, and Mac’s beers on tap, scrummy nibbles and a decent wine list make this a great place to settle in for the evening. Check the website for live-music listings.

BARDEAUX Wine Bar

(Eureka Arcade, 11 The Mall; 6pm-late) This small, low-key wine bar is all class. Under a low ceiling await plush leather armchairs and a fireplace made from Central Otago’s iconic schist rock. Come along for one of Queenstown’s best wine selections, many also from Central Otago.

Entertainment

SUBCULTURE Club

(www.subculture.net.nz; downstairs 12-14 Church St) Drum and bass, hip-hop, dub and reggae noises that get the crowds moving.

DUX DE LUX Live Music

(14 Church St) Lots of live bands and DJs with everything from reggae to drum and bass. Look forward to occasional summer visits from NZ’s biggest touring acts. The ‘Dux’ also brews its own beers.

KIWI HAKA Traditional Dance

( 03-441 0101; www.skyline.co.nz; Brecon St; adult/child/family incl gondola $59/32/166; from 5.15pm) For traditional Maori dancing and singing, come watch this group at the top of the gondola. There are four 30-minute shows nightly, but bookings are essential.

Information

Tourist Information

Queenstown i-SITE ( 03-442 4100, 0800 668 888; www.queenstownnz.co.nz; Clocktower Centre, cnr Shotover & Camp Sts; 8am-6.30pm) Booking service, accommodation and information on Queenstown, Arrowtown and Glenorchy.

DOC Visitor Centre (Department of Conservation; 03-442 7935; www.doc.govt.nz; 38 Shotover St; 8.30am-5.30pm)

Getting There & Away

Air

Air New Zealand ( 03-441 1900; www.airnewzealand.co.nz; 8 Church St) links Queenstown to Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, and Sydney and Melbourne. Virgin Australia has flights between Queenstown and Sydney and Brisbane. Jetstar ( 0800 800 995; www.jetstar.com) links Queenstown with Auckland, Christchurch and Wellington, and Sydney, Melbourne and the Gold Coast.

Bus

InterCity (www.intercity.co.nz) Book at the i-SITE. Travels to Christchurch, Te Anau, Milford Sound, Dunedin and Invercargill, plus a daily West Coast service to the glaciers and Haast.

Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) To the West Coast, Te Anau, Christchurch, Dunedin, Cromwell, Wanaka and Invercargill.

Atomic Shuttles (www.atomictravel.co.nz) To Wanaka, Christchurch, Dunedin and Greymouth.

Catch-a-Bus ( 03-479 9960; www.catchabus.co.nz) To Dunedin and Central Otago – also links to the Taeri Gorge Railway.

Bottom Bus ( 03-477 9083; www.bottombus.co.nz) Does a loop service around the south of the South Island.

Wanaka Connexions ( 03-443 9120; www.alpinecoachlines.co.nz) Links Queenstown with Wanaka and the Rail Trail towns of Central Otago.

Paragliding (Click here)

ED NORTON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Queenstown Airport (ZQN; 03-450 9031; www.queenstownairport.co.nz; Frankton) is 8km east of town. Super Shuttle ( 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz) picks up and drops off in Queenstown (around $20). Connectabus ( 03-441 4471; www.connectabus.com; cnr Beach & Camp Sts) runs to to the airport ($6) every 15 minutes from 6.50am to 10.20pm. Alpine Taxis ( 0800 442 6666) or Queenstown Taxis ( 03-442 7788) charge around $30.

Around Queenstown

Sights

1  Chard Farm C3

2  Gibbston Valley Wines D3

3 Skippers Canyon B1

Activities, Courses & Tours

4 Cardrona D1

5  Coronet Peak C2

6  Kawarau Bridge D2

7  Nevis Highwire D3

8 Onsen Hot Pools B2

9  Peregrine D3

Sleeping

10  Little Paradise Lodge A2

Eating

11  Amisfield Winery & Bistro C2

Winehouse & Kitchen (see 6)

Detour:

Gibbston Valley

Gung-ho visitors to Queenstown might be happiest dangling off a giant rubber band, but as they’re plunging towards the Kawarau River, they’ll be missing out on some of Central Otago’s most interesting winemaking areas just up the road in the stunning Gibbston Valley.

On a spectacular river terrace near the Kawarau Bridge, AJ Hackett’s original bungy partner Henry van Asch set up the Winehouse & Kitchen ( 03-442 7310; www.winehouse.co.nz; mains $15-30; 10am-5pm). A restored wooden villa includes a garden cafe, and in early 2012, the Winehouse’s annual Summer Playgound Series music festival was also launched from January to April.

Almost opposite, a winding and scenic road leads to beautiful Chard Farm ( 03-442 6110; www.chardfarm.co.nz; 11am-5pm), and a further 700m along is Gibbston Valley Wines (www.gvwines.co.nz) the area’s largest wine producer.

A further 4km along SH6, Peregrine ( 03-442 4000; www.peregrinewines.co.nz; 10am-5pm) produces excellent sauvignon blanc, pinot noir and pinot gris, and hosts occasional outdoor concerts during summer, sometimes featuring international names.

Further west near the shores of Lake Hayes, the Amisfield Winery & Bistro ( 03-442 0556; www.amisfield.co.nz; small plates $16.50; 11.30am-8pm Tue-Sun) is regularly lauded by NZ’s authoritative Cuisine magazine.

Ask at the Queenstown i-SITE for maps and information about touring the Gibbston Valley. Visit www.gibbstonvalley.co.nz for more info about this compact wine-growing area with its own unique microclimate.

Arrowtown

Beloved by day-trippers from Queenstown, exceedingly quaint Arrowtown sprang up in the 1860s following the discovery of gold in the Arrow River. Today the town retains more than 60 of its original wooden and stone buildings, and has pretty, tree-lined avenues, excellent galleries and an expanding array of fashionable shopping opportunities.

Sights & Activities

Try your luck gold panning on the Arrow River. Rent pans from the visitor information centre ($3) and head to the northern edge of town.

CHINESE SETTLEMENT Historical Site

(admission by gold coin donation; 24hr) Arrowtown has NZ’s best example of a gold-era Chinese settlement. Interpretive signs explain the lives of Chinese ‘diggers’ during and after the gold rush, while restored huts and shops make the story more tangible. Subjected to significant racism, the Chinese often had little choice but to rework old tailings rather than seek new claims. The Chinese settlement is off Buckingham St.

Information

Arrowtown Visitor Information Centre ( 03-442 1824; www.arrowtown.com; 49 Buckingham St; 8.30am-5pm; ) Shares premises with the Lake District Museum and Gallery.

Getting There & Away

From Queenstown, Connectabus ( 03-441 4471; www.connectabus.com) runs regular services (7.45am to 11pm) on its No 10 route from Frankton to Arrowtown. You’ll need to catch a No 11 bus from Queenstown to the corner of Frankton and Kawarau Rd, and change to a No 10 bus there. The cheapest way is a one-day pass (adult/child $17/12).

The Double-Decker Bus Tour Offline map Google map ( 03-441 4421; www.doubledeckerbus.co.nz; $48) does a three-hour round-trip tour to Arrowtown (departs Queenstown at 9.30am).

Arrowtown Scenic Bus ( 03-442 1900; www.arrowtownbus.co.nz) runs a daily four-hour round trip from Queenstown at 10am ($69).

Amisfield Winery (Click here)

GERARD WALKER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Glenorchy

Set in achingly beautiful surroundings, postage-stamp-sized Glenorchy is the perfect low-key antidote to Queenstown. Glenorchy lies at the head of Lake Wakatipu, a scenic 40-minute (68km) drive northwest from Queenstown.

Activities

The DOC brochure Heads of Lake Wakatipu ($2) details an easy waterside walk around the outskirts of town, and other tramps from two hours to two days, taking in the Routeburn Valley, Lake Sylvan, Dart River and Lake Rere.

Those with sturdy wheels can explore the superb valleys north of Glenorchy. Paradise lies 15km northwest of town, just before the start of the Dart Track. You can also explore the Rees Valley or take the road to Routeburn, which goes via the Dart River Bridge.

GLENORCHY BASE Tramping

( 03-409 0960; www.glenorchybase.co.nz; adult/child from $60) Specialising in guided walks around the Glenorchy area (from two hours to one day). Highlights include birdwatching around Lake Sylvan and a Routeburn Track day walk.

DART RIVER SAFARIS Jetboating

( 0800 327 8538, 03-442 9992; www.dartriver.co.nz; adult/child $219/119) Journeys into the heart of the spectacular Dart River wilderness, followed by a short nature walk and a 4WD trip. The round trip from Glenorchy takes three hours.

KAYAK KINLOCH Kayaking

( 03-442 4900; www.kayakkinloch.co.nz; adult $40-80, child $35-50) Excellent guided trips exploring the lake. Trips depart from Queenstown, Glenorchy or Kinloch.

DART STABLES Horse Riding

( 0800 474 3464, 03-442 5688; www.dartstables.com) Offer a two-hour ride ($129), a full-day trot ($279) and a 1½-hour Ride of the Rings trip ($169) for Hobbitty types. If you’re really keen, consider the overnight two-day trek with a sleepover in Paradise ($695). All trips can be joined in Queenstown.

Sleeping & Eating

KINLOCH LODGE Lodge $$

( 03-442 4900; www.kinlochlodge.co.nz; Kinloch Rd; dm $33, d $82-120, r $175-195) Across Lake Wakatipu from Glenorchy, this is a great place to unwind or prepare for a tramp. Rooms in the bunkhouse are comfy and colourful, and there’s a post-tramp hot tub. The 19th-century Heritage Rooms are small but plusher, and come with breakfast and dinner ($278 to $298). A bar and a good restaurant are on-site. Kinloch is a 26km drive from Glenorchy, or you can organise a five-minute boat ride across the lake.

GLENORCHY CAFÉ Cafe $$

(Mull St; breakfast & lunch mains $15-20, pizza $25; 8am-5pm May-Oct, dinner Nov-Apr) Perennial favourites like pizza and breakfast stacks keep locals coming back time after time.

Information

The best place for local information, updated weather, track information and hut passes is the Glenorchy Visitor Information Centre ( 03-409 2049; www.glenorchy-nz.co.nz; Oban St) in the Glenorchy Hotel.

Getting There & Away

With sweeping vistas and gem-coloured waters, the sealed Glenorchy-to-Queenstown road is wonderfully scenic. Its constant hills are a killer for cyclists. Pick up the Queenstown to Glenorchy Road leaflet from the Queenstown i-SITE for points of interest along the way.

Lake Wakatipu Region

The mountainous region at the northern head of Lake Wakatipu showcases gorgeous, remote scenery, best viewed while tramping along the famous Routeburn and lesser-known Greenstone, Caples and Rees-Dart Tracks. For shorter tracks, see the DOC brochure Wakatipu Walks ($5). Glenorchy is a convenient base for all these tramps.

Ultimate Hikes ( 03-442 8200; www.ultimatehikes.co.nz) has a three-day guided tramp on the Routeburn ($1125/1270 low/high season); a six-day Grand Traverse ($1560/1765), combining walks on the Routeburn and Greenstone Tracks; and a one-day Routeburn Encounter ($169), available from November to mid-April.

Routeburn Track

Passing through a huge variety of landscapes with fantastic views, the 32km-long, three- to four-day Routeburn Track is one of the most popular rainforest/subalpine tracks in NZ. Reservations are required throughout the main season (October to April). Book huts or campsites online at www.doc.govt.nz or at a DOC office prior to the trip.

There are car parks at the Divide and Glenorchy ends of the Routeburn, but they’re unattended, so don’t leave any valuables in your car.

The track can be started from either end. Many people travelling from Queenstown try to reach the Divide in time to catch the bus to Milford and connect with a cruise on the sound. En route, you’ll take in breathtaking views from Harris Saddle and the top of nearby Conical Hill, from where you can see waves breaking at Martins Bay. From Key Summit, there are panoramic views of the Hollyford Valley and the Eglinton and Greenstone River Valleys.

WANAKA REGION

Wanaka

Beautiful scenery, tramping and skiing opportunities, and a huge roster of adrenaline-inducing activities have transformed the lakeside town of Wanaka into a year-round tourist destination.

Wanaka

Activities, Courses & Tours

1  Thunderbikes B2

Sleeping

2  Archway Motels C1

3  Brook Vale B2

Eating

Botswana Butchery (see 6)

4  Federal Diner B2

5  Spice Room B2

Drinking

6  Barluga C2

Entertainment

7 Cinema Paradiso B3

Sights

WARBIRDS & WHEELS Museum

(www.warbirdsandwheels.com; Wanaka Airport, 11 Lloyd Dunn Av; adult/child/family $20/5/45; 9am-5pm) Dedicated to NZ combat pilots, their aircraft, and the sacrifices they made, this excellent muesum features Hawker Hurricanes, a de Havilland Vampire and vintage Soviet fighter planes. Classic cars make up the ‘wheels’ part.

WANAKA BEERWORKS Brewery

(www.wanakabeerworks.co.nz; SH6; tours & tasting $10; 9am-4pm) This small brewery’s three main beers, a Vienna lager, a German-style black beer, and a hops- laden Bohemian pilsner are complemented by up to 12 different seasonal brews each year. Dave the owner is a real deal Belgian brewing supremo, and is usually available for tastings and brewery tours.

Trampers in Routeburn Gorge

SALLY DILLON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Activities

Wide valleys, alpine meadows, more than 100 glaciers and sheer mountains make Mt Aspiring National Park an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise.

Tramping

While the southern end of Mt Aspiring National Park is well trafficked and includes popular tramps such as the Routeburn Track, there are great short walks and more demanding multiday tramps in the Matukituki Valley, close to Wanaka; see the DOC brochure Matukituki Valley Tracks ($2). The dramatic Rob Roy Valley Track (two to three hours return) takes in glaciers, waterfalls and a swing bridge. The West Matukituki Valley track goes on to Aspiring Hut (four to five hours return), a scenic walk over mostly grassy flats.

For walks closer to town, pick up the DOC brochure Wanaka Outdoor Pursuits ($3.50). Many outfits offer guided walking tours, some into Mt Aspiring National Park.

ALPINISM & SKI WANAKA Tramping

( 03-442 6593; www.alpinismski.co.nz; from $200) Day walks and overnight tramps.

ECO WANAKA ADVENTURES Tramping

( 0800 926 326; www.ecowanaka.co.nz; half-/full day from $105/170) Day, half-day and multiday trips.

Skiing & Snowboarding

SNOW FARM NEW ZEALAND Skiing

( 03-443 7542; www.snowfarmnz.com; daily trail pass adult/child $40/20) NZ’s only commercial cross-country ski area is 35km from Wanaka on the Pisa Range. There are 50km of groomed trails, huts with facilities, and thousands of hectares of snow.

SNOW PARK NZ Skiing

( 03-443 9991; www.snowparknz.com; daily lift pass adult/child $88/41) NZ’s only dedicated freestyle ski and snowboard area, with a plethora of pipes, terrain parks, boxes and rails and snow-making facilities. It's 34km from Wanaka.

Jetboating & Rafting

PIONEER RAFTING Rafting

( 03-443 1246; www.ecoraft.co.nz; half day adult/child $145/85, full day $195/105) Ecorafting on the high-volume Clutha, with Grade II to III rapids, gold panning and birdwatching.

WANAKA RIVER JOURNEYS Jetboating

( 0800 544 555; www.wanakariverjourneys.co.nz; adult/child $240/145) Combination bush walk (50 minutes) and jetboat ride in the stunning Matukituki Valley.

Canyoning & Kayaking

DEEP CANYON Canyoning

( 03-443 7922; www.deepcanyon.co.nz; from $240; mid-Nov–Apr) Loads of climbing, swimming and waterfall-abseiling through confined, wild gorges.

ALPINE KAYAK GUIDES Kayaking

( 03-443 9023; www.alpinekayaks.co.nz; half/full day $149/195; Nov-May) Down the Hawea, Clutha and Matukituki Rivers. Kids can join a more leisurely half-day Grandview trip (two adults, two kids $450).

Skydiving & Paragliding

SKYDIVE LAKE WANAKA Skydiving

( 03-443 7207; www.skydivewanaka.com; from $299) Jumps from 12,000ft and a scary 15,000ft; the latter lets you fall for 60 seconds.

WANAKA PARAGLIDING Paragliding

( 0800 359 754; www.wanakaparagliding.co.nz; $189) Count on around 20 minutes soaring on the Central Otago thermals.

Kayaking, Clutha River

JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Mountain Biking

Many tracks and trails in the region are open to cyclists. Pick up the DOC brochure Wanaka Outdoor Pursuits ($3.50), describing mountain-bike rides ranging from 2km to 24km, including the Deans Bank Loop Track (11.5km).

The Bike Wanaka Cycling Map ($2) is available at local cycle shops and features forested tracks for more adventurous riders. To hire a bike and get local track information head to Thunderbikes (cnr Helwick & Bronwston St).

FREERIDE NZ Mountain Biking

( 0800 743 369, 021 712 996; www.freeridenz.com; per person from $185) Guided full-day trips including helibiking options, and a three-day ($1370) Central Otago adventure. Self-guided tours and rental is $95.

Tours

WANAKA FLIGHTSEEING Scenic Flights

( 03-443 8787; www.flightseeing.co.nz; adult/child from $200/120) Spectacular flyovers of Mt Aspiring, Milford Sound and Mt Cook.

ASPIRING HELICOPTERS Scenic Flights

( 03-443 7152; www.aspiringhelicopters.co.nz) Also flights to Milford Sound.

LAKE WANAKA CRUISES Boat Cruise

( 03-443 1230; www.wanakacruises.co.nz; from $70) Lake cruising aboard a catamaran with overnight options.

Sleeping

RIVERSONG B&B $$

( 03-443 8567; www.riversongwanaka.co.nz; 5 Wicklow Tce; d $160-180) On the banks of the Clutha River in nearby Albert Town, Riversong has two rooms in a lovely heritage B&B. The well-travelled owners may have the best nonfiction library in NZ, and if you can tear yourself away, there’s excellent trout fishing just metres away. Dinner including wine is $55 per person.

WANAKA HOMESTEAD Lodge $$$

( 03-443 5022; www.wanakahomestead.co.nz; 1 Homestead Close; d $265, cottages $410-525; ) Wooden interiors, oriental rugs and local artwork punctuate this boutique lodge, which has won awards for its ecofriendly approach to sustainability. Despite the focus on green good deeds, it’s still luxurious, with underfloor heating and an under-the-stars hot tub. Choose from rooms in the main lodge or in self-contained cottages.

ARCHWAY MOTELS Motel $$

( 0800 427 249, 03-443 7698; www.archwaymotels.co.nz; 64 Hedditch St; $105-150; ) This older motel with clean and spacious units and chalets is a short uphill walk from the lakefront. Helpful owners, new flat-screen TVs, and cedar hot tubs with mountain views make Archway great value in a sometimes expensive town.

BROOK VALE Motel $$

( 0800 438 333, 03-443 8333; www.brookvale.co.nz; 35 Brownston St; d $145-185; ) Self-contained studio and family units with a few classy touches and patios that open onto a grassy lawn complete with a gently flowing creek. You’ll also find a barbecue, a spa and a swimming pool.

Eating

FEDERAL DINER Cafe $

(www.federaldiner.co.nz; 47 Helwick St; snacks & mains $10-20; 7.30am-4pm, open later for tapas in summer) Seek out this cosmopolitan cafe tucked away off Wanaka’s main shopping street. The all-day menu delivers robust spins on breakfast, excellent coffee and chunky gourmet sandwiches. Beers and wines are proudly local, and there’s occasional live music with a blues or folk flavour on Friday nights.

SPICE ROOM Indian $$

(www.spiceroom.co.nz; 43 Helwick St; mains $20-25; ) The combo of an authentic curry, crispy garlic naan and cold beer is a great way to recharge after a day’s snowboarding or tramping. Beyond the spot-on renditions of all your subcontinental favourites, the Spice Room springs a few surprises with starters including a zingy scallops masala salad.

Heliskiers, Mt Aspiring National Park (Click here)

JOHN HAY /LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

BOTSWANA BUTCHERY Modern Nz $$$

Offline map Google map

( 03-443 6745; Post Office Lane; mains $30-45; 5pm-late) In a sophisticated dining room, locally inspired dishes like Central Otago hare and Cardrona Merino lamb shoulder go head to head with Botswana Butchery’s signature aged beef steaks. Definitely food for grown-ups, as is the serious Central Otago–skewed wine list.

Drinking & Entertainment

BARLUGA Bar

(Post Office Lane; 4pm-late) In the funky Post Office Lane area, Barluga’s leather armchairs and coolly retro wallpaper at first make you think of a refined gentlemen’s club. Wicked cocktails and killer back-to-back beats soon smash that illusion.

CINEMA PARADISO Cinema

Offline map Google map

( 03-443 1505; www.paradiso.net.nz; 72-76 Brownston St; adult/child $16/10; ) Wanaka’s original Cinema Paradiso in Ardmore St was a true NZ icon, and it re-opened at these more modern and spacious premises in March 2012. Look forward to an entertaining slice of the old Paradiso magic with comfy couches and extra cushions on the floor to stretch out on. The best of Hollywood and art-house flicks run across three screens.

RUBY’S Cinema

(www.rubyscinema.co.nz; 50 Cardrona Valley Rd; adult/child $18.50/12.50) Channelling a lush New York or Shanghai vibe, this hip art-house-cinema-meets-chic-cocktail-bar is a real surprise in outdoorsy Wanaka. Luxuriate in the huge cinema seats, or chill out in the red velvet lounge with craft beers, classic cocktails and sophisticated bar snacks ($6 to $14).

Campervanning, near Wanaka

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Information

DOC Mt Aspiring National Park Visitor Centre (Department of Conservation; 03-443 7660; www.doc.govt.nz; Ardmore St; 8am-5pm Nov-Apr, 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4pm Sat May-Oct) Enquire about tramps, and there’s a small museum (admission free) on Wanaka geology, flora and fauna.

Lake Wanaka i-SITE ( 03-443 1233; www.lakewanaka.co.nz; 100 Ardmore St; 8.30am-5.30pm, to 7pm in summer) In the log cabin on the lakefront.

Getting There & Away

Air

Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) has daily flights between Wanaka and Christchurch (from $99).

Bus

InterCity (www.intercity.co.nz) Wanaka receives daily buses from Queenstown (two hours), which motor on to Franz Josef (six hours) via Haast Pass (three hours). For Christchurch (6½ hours) you’ll need to change at Tarras.

Atomic Shuttles (www.atomictravel.co.nz) Services to Christchurch (seven hours), Dunedin (4½ hours) and the West Coast.

Catch-a-Bus ( 03-479 9960; www.catchabus.co.nz) Links Wanaka with Dunedin and the Rail Trail towns of Central Otago

Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) Services to Queenstown, Christchurch, Cromwell and the West Coast.

Connectabus ( 0800 405 066; www.connectabus.com; one-way/return $35/65) Handy twice-daily service linking Wanaka with Queenstown airport and Queenstown.

Wanaka Connexions ( 03-443-9120; www.alpinecoachlines.co.nz) Links Wanaka with Queenstown and the Rail Trail towns of Central Otago

Getting Around

Alpine Coachlines ( 03-443 7966; www.alpinecoachlines.co.nz; Dunmore St) meets and greets flights at Wanaka Airport ($15), and in summer has twice-daily shuttles for trampers ($35) to Mt Aspiring National Park and Raspberry Creek. Wanaka Taxis ( 0800 272 2700) also looks after airport transfers, while Adventure Rentals ( 03-443 6050; www.adventurerentals.co.nz; 20 Ardmore St) hires cars and 4WDs, and Yello ( 0800 443 5555; www.yello.co.nz) provide charter transport, airport transfers and regional sightseeing.

Detour:

Cardrona

The sealed Crown Range Road from Wanaka to Queenstown via Cardrona is shorter than the route via Cromwell, but it’s a narrow, twisting-and-turning mountain road that needs to be tackled with care, especially in poor weather.

With views of lush valleys, foothills and countless snowy peaks, this is one of the South Island’s most scenic drives. The road passes through tall, swaying tussock grass in the Pisa Conservation Area, which has a number of short walking trails. There are plenty of rest stops to drink in the view. Particularly good ones are at the Queenstown end of the road, as you switchback down towards Arrowtown.

The unpretentious-looking Cardrona Hotel ( 03-443 8153; www.cardronahotel.co.nz; Crown Range Rd; d $135-185) first opened its doors in 1863. Today you’ll find lovingly restored, peaceful rooms with snug, country-style furnishings and patios opening onto a garden. You’ll also find a deservedly popular pub with a good restaurant (mains $15-20) and a great garden bar.

DUNEDIN & OTAGO

Dunedin

Dunedin’s compact town centre blends the historic and the contemporary, reflected in its alluring museums and tempting bars, cafes and restaurants. Weatherboard houses ranging from stately to ramshackle pepper its hilly suburbs, and bluestone Victorian buildings punctuate the centre. The country’s oldest university provides loads of student energy to sustain thriving theatre, live-music and after-dark scenes.

Dunedin

Top Sights

Otago Museum D2

Otago Settlers Museum C6

Railway Station D5

Sights

1 New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame D5

2  Public Art Gallery B5

3 Taieri Gorge Railway D5

Activities, Courses & Tours

4 Cycle Surgery C5

5 Speight's Brewery B6

Sleeping

6  315 Euro C3

7 Brothers Boutique Hotel A5

8  Dunedin Palms Motel A6

9  Fletcher Lodge A6

Eating

10  Best Cafe C5

Dunedin Farmers Market (see 3)

11  Governors C2

12  Plato C7

13  Scotia B5

14 The Perc C5

Drinking

15 Fix D3

16 Mazagran Espresso Bar B5

17  Mou Very C3

Pequeno (see 19)

Speight's Ale House (see 5)

18 Strictly Coffee C5

19  XIIB B5

Entertainment

20  Sammy's B7

21  Urban Factory C4

Sights

OTAGO MUSEUM Museum

(www.otagomuseum.govt.nz; 419 Great King St; admission by donation; 10am-5pm) Explores Otago’s cultural and physical past and present, from geology and dinosaurs to the modern day. The Tangata Whenua Maori gallery houses an impressive waka taua (war canoe), wonderfully worn old carvings and some lovely pounamu (greenstone) works. Join themed guided tours ($12, see website for times and themes).

RAILWAY STATION Historic Building

(Anzac Ave) Featuring mosaic-tile floors and glorious stained-glass windows, Dunedin’s striking Edwardian Railway Station claims to be NZ’s most-photographed building. The station houses the NZ Sports Hall of Fame, hosts the Dunedin Farmers Market, and is the departing point for the Taieri Gorge Railway.

PUBLIC ART GALLERY Gallery

(www.dunedin.art.museum; 30 The Octagon; 10am-5pm) Explore NZ’s art scene at Dunedin’s expansive and airy Public Art Gallery. Climb the iron staircase for great city views.

BALDWIN STREET Street

The world’s steepest residential street (or so says the Guinness Book of World Records), Baldwin St has a gradient of 1 in 1.286 (19 degrees). The annual ‘Gutbuster’ race in February sees up to 1000 athletes run to the top of Baldwin St and back. The record is just under two minutes.

Activities

St Clair and St Kilda are both popular swimming beaches (though you need to watch for rips at St Clair). Both have consistently good left-hand breaks, and you’ll also find good surfing at Blackhead further south, and at Aramoana on Otago Harbour’s North Shore.

The Esplanade Surf School ( 455 8655; www.espsurfschool.co.nz; lessons from $60), based at St Clair Beach, provides equipment and lessons.

The Tunnel Beach Walkway (5 min return; closed 20 Aug-31 Oct for lambing) crosses farmland before descending the sea cliffs to Tunnel Beach. Sea stacks, arches and unusual rock shapes have been carved out by the wild Pacific, and a few fossils stud the sandstone cliffs.

The walk is southwest of central Dunedin.

CYCLE SURGERY Bicycle Rental

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(www.cyclesurgery.co.nz; 67 Lower Stuart St; per day $40) Rents out bikes and has mountain-biking information.

Tours

FIRST CITY TOURS Bus Tour

(adult/child $20/10; buses depart The Octagon 9am, 10.15am, 1pm, 2.15pm & 3.30pm) Hop-on/hop-off double-decker bus tour that loops around the city. Stops include the Otago Museum, Speight’s, Botanic Gardens and Baldwin St.

WALK DUNEDIN Walking Tour

( 03-477 5052; 2hr walk $20; 10am) History-themed strolls around the city, organised by the Otago Settlers Museum. Book at the i-SITE, or pick up a self-guided tour brochure ($4).

WINE TOURS OTAGO Wine Tasting

( 021 070 1658, 03-453 1455; www.winetoursotago.co.nz; per person $159) Wine-tasting excursions exploring Central Otago or the Waitaki Valley.

Sleeping

GRANDVIEW BED & BREAKFAST B&B $$

( 0800 749 472, 03-474 9472; www.grandview.co.nz; 360 High St; d incl breakfast $125-200; ) Bold colours, exposed brick walls and snazzy art-deco bathrooms are the highlights at this family-owned B&B. The building dates back to 1861, there are superb harbour views from the barbecue and deck area, and lots of sunny shared spaces. The larger rooms have private spa baths, and there’s even a gym and sauna.

House on Baldwin Street

JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

ROSLYN A PARTMENTS Apartments $$

( 03-477 6777; www.roslynapartments.co.nz; 23 City Rd; d $150-300; ) Modern decor and brilliant city and harbour views are on tap at these chic apartments just a short walk from the restaurants and cafes of Roslyn Village. Leather furniture and designer kitchens add a touch of class, and it’s a 10-minute downhill walk to the Octagon.

315 EURO Motel $$

( 0800 387 638, 03-477 9929; www.eurodunedin.co.nz; 315 George St; d $150-250; ) This sleek complex is in the absolute heart of George St’s daytime retail strip and after-dark eating and drinking hub. Choose from modern studio apartments or larger one-bedroom apartments with full kitchens. Access via an alleyway is a bit odd, but soundproofing and double-glazed windows keeps George St’s irresistible buzz at bay.

BROTHERS BOUTIQUE HOTEL Boutique Hotel $$$

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( 0800 477 004, 03-477 0043; www.brothershotel.co.nz; 295 Rattray St; d incl breakfast $170-320; ) Rooms in this distinctive old 1920s Christian Brothers residence have been refurbished beyond any monk’s dreams, while still retaining many unique features. The chapel room ($320) includes the original arched stained-glass windows of its past life. There are great views from the rooftop units.

DUNEDIN PALMS MOTEL Motel $$

( 0800 782 938, 03-477 8293; www.dunedinpalmsmotel.co.nz; 185-195 High St; d $170-210; ) A short stroll from the Speight’s Ale House, the art-deco-style Palms has smartly decorated studios and one- and two-bedroom units arrayed around a central courtyard. You’re handily just out of the centre, but don’t have to endure a long walk uphill.

FLETCHER LODGE B&B $$$

( 03-477 5552; www.fletcherlodge.co.nz; 276 High St; d $325-595, apt $650-750; ) Originally home to one of NZ’s wealthy industrialist families, this gorgeous redbrick manor is just minutes from the city, but the secluded gardens feel wonderfully remote. Rooms are elegantly trimmed with antique furniture and ornate plaster ceilings.

Eating

PLATO Modern Nz $$

( 03-477 4235; www.platocafe.co.nz; 2 Birch St; brunch mains $15-23, dinner mains $27-33; 6pm-late Mon-Sat, 11am-late Sun) A regular contender in Cuisine magazine’s Best of NZ gongs, Plato has a retro-themed location near the harbour and a strong beer and wine list. Try standouts like the Indian seafood curry or grilled salmon on potato gnocchi. Sunday brunch is worth the shortish trek from the centre. Bookings are recommended.

SCOTIA Restaurant $$

( 03-477 7704; www.scotiadunedin.co.nz; 199 Upper Stuart St; mains $18-32; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) Occupying a cosy heritage townhouse, Scotia toasts all things Scottish with a wall full of single malt whisky, and hearty fare such as smoked salmon and Otago rabbit. The two Scottish Robbies – Burns and Coltrane – look down approvingly on a menu that also includes haggis, and duck and whisky pâté.

BEST CAFE Fish & Chips $$

(30 Stuart St; from $8; lunch & dinner, takeaway until late) Serving up fish and chips since 1932, this local icon has its winning formula down pat, complete with vinyl tablecloths, hand-cut chips and curls of butter on white bread. If there’s two or more of you, try the ‘Old School’ platter with juicy oysters, whitebait, scallops, squid rings and fish of your choice ($29.50, or $35 with Bluff oysters).

PERC Cafe $

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(142 Lower Stuart St; mains $10-18) Always busy, and for good reason – the Perc is a grand place to kick-start your day. The decor’s kinda retro and kinda art deco, and there’s hearty cafe fare ranging from salmon bagels and panini to warming porridge.

GOVERNORS Cafe $

(438 George St; mains $9-16) Popular with students, Governors does a nice line in early morning pancakes and other light meals. If you’re feeling a little off the pace after the previous night, a strong coffee and an eggy omelette are just what the doctor ordered.

DUNEDIN FARMERS MARKET Farmers Market $

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(www.otagofarmersmarket.org.nz; Dunedin Railway Station, off Anzac Ave; 8am-12.30pm Sat) The thriving Dunedin Farmers Market is all local, all eatable (or drinkable) and mostly organic. Grab felafels or espresso to sustain you while you browse, and stock up on fresh meats, seafood, vegies and cheese for your journey. Also pick up some locally brewed Green Man organic beer. Sorted.

If You Like...

Dunedin’s Caffeine Scene

If you like the coffee at Governors, here are a few other spots in Dunedin to kick-start your heart:

1 FIX

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(15 Frederick St; closed Sun) Wage slaves queue at the pavement window every morning, while students and others with time on their hands relax in the courtyard. Fix doesn't serve food, but you can bring along your own food or takeaways.

2 MAZAGRAN ESPRESSO BAR

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(36 Moray Pl; closed Sun) The godfather of Dunedin’s coffee scene, this compact wood-and-brick coffee house is the source of the magic bean for many of the city’s restaurants and cafes.

3 STRICTLY COFFEE

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(23 Bath St; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Stylish retro coffee bar hidden down grungy Bath St. Different rooms provide varying views and artworks to enjoy while you sip and sup.

Drinking & Entertainment

MOU VERY Bar

(www.mouvery.co.nz; 357 George St) Welcome to one of the world’s smallest bars – it’s only 1.8m wide, but is still big enough to host regular funk and soul DJ sessions most Fridays from 5pm. There are just six bar stools, so Mou Very’s boho regulars usually spill out into an adjacent laneway. By day, it’s a handy refuelling spot for your morning or afternoon espresso.

EUREKA Bar

(www.eurekadunedin.co.nz; 116 Albany St) Despite its proximity to occasional student sofa burnings around the corner on Hyde St, Eureka attracts a diverse crowd from first-year university newbies to their more grizzled tutors and other academics. The food’s hearty and good value, and it’s yet another Dunedin bar showcasing Kiwi microbreweries.

PEQUENO Bar

(www.pequeno.co.nz; alleyway behind 12 Moray Pl; Mon-Sat) Down the alleyway opposite the Rialto cinema, Pequeno attracts a more sophisticated crowd with leather couches, a cosy fireplace and an excellent wine and tapas menu. Music is generally laid-back and never too loud to intrude on conversation.

XIIB Bar

(www.bennu.co.nz/xiib.html; alleyway behind 12 Moray Pl; Tue-Sat) XIIB (aka 12 Below) is an intimate underground bar with comfy seats and couches, and cosy nooks aplenty. There’s also floor space for live-music acts (look forward to lots of funk and reggae), or to wriggle along to hip-hop and drum and bass.

URBAN FACTORY Club

(www.urbanfactory.co.nz; 101 Great King St) The hippest of NZ’s touring bands, regular DJ sessions and carefully-crafted cocktails.

SAMMY’S Live Music

(65 Crawford St) Dunedin’s premier live-music venue draws an eclectic mix of genres from noisy-as-hell punk to chilled reggae and gritty dubstep. It’s also usually venue of choice for visiting Kiwi bands and up-and-coming international acts.

CHICK’S HOTEL Live Music

(Search Facebook for ‘Friends of Chicks’; 2 Mount St; hours vary) Across in Port Chalmers, Chick's is the archetypal rock-and-roll pub, hosting everything from US alt-country bands to local metal noise merchants. Catch bus 13 or 14 from Cumberland St in Dunedin.

Information

Dunedin Hospital ( 03-474 0999, emergency department 0800 611 116; www.southerndhb.govt.nz; 201 Great King St)

Urgent Doctors & Accident Centre ( 03-479 2900; 95 Hanover St; 8am-11.30pm) Also a pharmacy open outside normal business hours.

DOC (Department of Conservation; 03-477 0677; www.doc.govt.nz; 1st fl, 77 Lower Stuart St; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Information and maps on regional walking tracks and Great Walks bookings.

Dunedin i-SITE ( 03-474 3300; www.dunedinnz.com; 26 Princes St; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.45am-5pm Sat & Sun) Accommodation, activities, transport and walking tours.

Getting There & Away

Air

Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) flies from Dunedin to Christchurch, Wellington and Auckland. Australian destinations are Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne. Pacific Blue links Dunedin to Melbourne and Brisbane, and Jetstar flies to Auckland.

Bus

InterCity ( 03-471 7143; www.intercity.co.nz; 205 St Andrew St; ticket office 7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat, 11am-5.15pm Sun, tickets by phone 7am-9pm daily) has services to Oamaru (one hour 40 minutes), Christchurch (six hours), Queenstown (4½ hours), Te Anau (4½ hours) and Invercargill – via Gore (four hours). Buses leave from St Andrew St.

Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) connects Dunedin with Christchurch (six hours) and Invercargill (four hours). Buses leave from the Citibus Transport Centre (630 Princes St).

Southern Link ( 0508 458 835; www.southernlinkcoaches.co.nz) connects Dunedin to Christchurch (six hours), Oamaru (one hour 50 minutes) and Invercargill (three hours 40 minutes).

A couple of services connect Dunedin to the Catlins and Southland. The Bottom Bus ( 03-477 9083; www.bottombus.co.nz) does a circuit from Dunedin through the Catlins to Invercargill, Te Anau, Queenstown and back to Dunedin. Catlins Coaster ( 03-477 9083; www.catlinscoaster.co.nz) connects Dunedin with Invercargill, returning via the scenic Catlins.

Other services:

Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) To/from Christchurch (six hours), Oamaru (two hours), Invercargill (four hours), and Queenstown and Wanaka (both four hours).

Trail Journeys ( 03-449-2024; www.trailjourneys.co.nz) Door-to-door daily between Dunedin and Wanaka stopping at Otago Central Rail Trail towns along the way. Bikes can be transported.

Wanaka Connexions ( 03-443 9120; www.alpinecoachlines.co.nz) Shuttles between Dunedin and Wanaka (four hours) and Queenstown (four hours).

Getting Around

To & From the Airport

Dunedin Airport (DUD; 03-486 2879; www.dnairport.co.nz) is 27km southwest of the city. A door-to-door shuttle is around $15 per person. Try Kiwi Shuttles ( 03-487 9790; www.kiwishuttles.co.nz), Super Shuttle ( 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz) or Southern Taxis ( 03-476 6300; www.southerntaxis.co.nz). There is no public bus service.

A standard taxi ride between the city and the airport costs around $80.

Bus

City buses ( 03-474 0287; www.orc.govt.nz) Buses run regularly during the week, but services are greatly reduced (or nonexistent) on weekends and holidays.

Taxi

Dunedin Taxis ( 03-477 7777, 0800 50 50 10; www.dunedintaxis.co.nz)

Otago Taxis ( 03-477 3333).

Otago Peninsula

Otago Peninsula has the South Island’s most accessible diversity of wildlife. Albatross, penguins, fur seals and sea lions provide a natural background to rugged countryside, wild walks and beaches, and interesting historical sites. Get the Otago Peninsula brochure and map from the Dunedin i-SITE and visit www.otago-peninsula.co.nz.

Otago Peninsula

Sights

ROYAL ALBATROSS CENTRE Wildlife Reserve

( 03-478 0499; www.albatross.org.nz; Taiaroa Head; 9am-dusk summer, 10am-4pm winter) Taiaroa Head, at the peninsula’s eastern tip, has the world’s only mainland royal albatross colony. The best time to visit is from December to February, when one parent is constantly guarding the young while the other delivers food throughout the day. Sightings are most common in the afternoon when the winds pick up, and calm days don’t see much bird action. The only public access is through the Royal Albatross Centre where 45-minute tours (adult/child/family $40/20/100) include viewing from a glassed-in hut overlooking the nesting sites. There’s no viewing from mid-September to late November, and from late November to December the birds are nestbound so it’s difficult to see their magnificent wingspan. Ask the staff whether the birds are flying before you pay.

YELLOW-EYED PENGUIN CONSERVATION RESERVE Wildlife Reserve

( 03-478 0286; www.penguinplace.co.nz; McGrouther’s Farm, Harington Point Rd; tours adult/child $49/12) Activities include building nesting sites, caring for sick and injured birds, and trapping predators. Ninety-minute tours focus on penguin conservation and close-up viewing from a system of hides.

Activities

The peninsula’s coastal and farmland walkways offer stunning views and the chance to see wildlife on your own. Pick up a free copy of the detailed Otago Peninsula Tracks from the Dunedin i-SITE. A popular walking destination is the beautiful Sandfly Bay, reached from Seal Point Rd (moderate; 40 minutes) or Ridge Rd (difficult; 40 minutes).

WILD EARTH ADVENTURES Kayaking

( 03-489 1951; www.wildearth.co.nz; trips from $115) Offers trips in double sea kayaks, with wildlife often sighted en route. Trips run between four hours and a full day. Some trips start in Dunedin and some on the peninsula.

Tours

BACK TO NATURE TOURS Wildlife

( 0800 528 767, 03-478 0499; www.backtonaturetours.co.nz; adult/child $95/55) Good-value peninsula tours getting you up close and personal with yellow-eyed penguins, NZ fur seals and sea lions. From November to March an optional tour is a spectacular coastal hike (adult/child $85/45).

CITIBUS Wildlife

( 03-477 5577; www.citibus.co.nz; adult/child from $95/47.50) Tours combining albatross and penguin viewing.

Getting There & Around

Up to 10 buses travel each weekday between Dunedin’s Cumberland St and Portobello Village, with one or two a day continuing on to Harington Point. Weekend services are more limited. Once on the peninsula, it’s tough to get around without your own transport. Most tours will pick you up from your Dunedin accommodation.

There’s a petrol station in Portobello, but opening hours are unpredictable. Fill up in Dunedin before driving out.

Central Otago

Rolling hills, grassy paddocks and a succession of tiny, charming gold-rush towns make this region worth exploring. Naseby and Clyde compete for the title of NZ’s cutest towns, and rugged, laconic ‘Southern Man’ types can be seen propping up the bar in backcountry hotels. There are also fantastic opportunities for those on two wheels, whether mountain biking along old gold-mining trails, or taking it easy on the Otago Rail Trail.

Otago Central Rail Trail

Stretching from Dunedin to Clyde, the Central Otago rail branch linked small, inland goldfield towns with the big city from the early 20th century through to the 1990s. After the 150km stretch from Middlemarch to Clyde was permanently closed, the rails were ripped up and the trail resurfaced. The result is a year-round trail that takes bikers, walkers and horseback riders along a historic route containing old rail bridges, viaducts and tunnels. With excellent trailside facilities (toilets, shelters and information), no steep hills, gob-smacking scenery and profound remoteness, the trail attracts well over 25,000 visitors annually.

The trail can be followed in either direction. The entire trail takes approximately four to five days to complete by bike (or a week on foot), but you can obviously choose to do as short or long a stretch as suits your plans. There are also easy detours to towns such as Naseby and St Bathans. Many settlements along the route offer accommodation and dining, including lodgings in restored cottages and rural farmhouses.

Mountain bikes can be rented in Dunedin, Middlemarch, Alexandra and Clyde. Any of the area’s major i-SITEs can provide detailed information. See www.otagocentralrailtrail.co.nz and www.otagorailtrail.co.nz for track information, recommended timings, accommodation options and tour companies.

Detour:

Moeraki

About 76km north of Dunedin, stop to check out the Moeraki Boulders (Te Kaihinaki), a collection of large spherical boulders on a stunning stretch of beach, scattered about like a giant kid’s discarded marbles. Try to time your visit with low tide.

Moeraki township is a charming fishing village. It’s a nice 1½-hour walk along the beach between the village and the boulders. Head in the other direction towards the Kaiks wildlife trail and a cute old wooden lighthouse – a great spot to see yellow-eyed penguins and fur seals.

Fleur’s Place ( 03-439 4480; www.fleursplace.com; Old Jetty; mains $25-38; 10.30am-late Wed-Sat) has a rumble-tumble look about it, but this stylish timber hut serves up some of the South Island’s best food. The speciality is seafood, fresh off Moeraki’s fishing boats.

FIORDLAND

Fiordland is NZ’s rawest wilderness area, a jagged, mountainous, forested zone sliced by numerous deeply recessed sounds (which are technically fiords) reaching inland like crooked fingers from the Tasman Sea. Part of the Te Wahipounamu Southwest New Zealand World Heritage Area, it remains formidable and remote.

Te Anau

Peaceful, lakeside Te Anau township is a good base for trampers and visitors to Milford Sound, and an ideal place to recharge or get active in the surrounding landscapes.

Activities

Tramping

Register your intentions at the Department of Conservation Visitor Centre ( 03-249 0200; www.doc.govt.nz; cnr Lakefront Dr & Manapouri Hwy; 8.30am-4.30pm).

Kepler Track

This 60km circular Great Walk starts less than an hour’s walk from Te Anau and heads west into the Kepler Mountains, taking in the lake, rivers, gorges, glacier-carved valleys and beech forest. The walk can be done in four days, or three if you exit at Rainbow Reach. It’s recommended that the track be done in the Luxmore–Iris Burn–Moturau direction.

During the main walking season (October to April), advance bookings must be made by all trampers online at www.doc.govt.nz or at any DOC visitor centre.

Short Walks

Set out along the Kepler Track on free day walks. Kepler Water Taxi ( 03-249 8364; stevsaunders@xtra.co.nz; 1 way/return $25/50) will scoot you over to Brod Bay from where you can walk to Mt Luxmore (seven to eight hours) or along the southern lakeshore back to Te Anau (two to three hours). Regular shuttles leave Te Anau lakefront at 8.30am and 9.30am during summer.

During summer, Trips’n’Tramps ( 03-249 7081, 0800 305 807; www.tripsandtramps.com; Oct-Apr) offers small-group, guided hikes on sections of the Routeburn and Kepler and Hollyford Tracks. Some departures incorporate kayaking on Milford Sound. Real Journeys ( 0800 656 501; www.realjourneys.co.nz; 9am-5pm) runs guided day hikes (adult/child $195/127, November to mid-April) along an 11km stretch of the Milford Track.

Grab a copy of Fiordland National Park Day Walks ($1 from the Fiordland i-SITE or free at www.doc.govt.nz).

Kayaking

FIORDLAND WILDERNESS EXPERIENCES Kayaking

( 0800 200 434; www.fiordlandseakayak.co.nz; from $145) One-day and multiday kayaking explorations of Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri. Prices start at $145 per day.

Tours

SOUTHERN LAKES HELICOPTERS Scenic Flights

( 03-249 7167; www.southernlakeshelicopters.co.nz; Lakefront Dr) Flights over Te Anau for 25 minutes ($195), longer trips over Doubtful, Dusky and Milford Sounds (from $540), and a chopper/walk/boat option on the Kepler Track ($185).

WINGS & WATER TE ANAU Scenic Flights

( 03-249 7405; www.wingsandwater.co.nz; Lakefront Dr) Ten-minute local flights (adult/child $95/55), and longer flights over the Kepler Track and Doubtful and Milford Sounds (from $225).

Sleeping

TE ANAU LODGE B&B B&B $$$

( 03-249 7477; www.teanaulodge.com; 52 Howden St; d $240-350; ) The former 1930s-built Sisters of Mercy Convent, relocated to a grand location just north of town, is a positively decadent accommodation option. Sip your drink in a Chesterfield in front of the fire, retire to your spa before collapsing on a king-size bed, then awaken to a fresh, delicious breakfast in the old chapel.

BLUE MOUNTAIN COTTAGES Lodge $$$

( 03-249 9030; www.bluemountaincottages.co.nz; Hwy 95; cabins $260) These family-friendly self-contained cabins surrounded by farmland 8km south of town can sleep up to four. Fresh-baked goods, free-range eggs, and organic produce and vegies are often available for guests.

COSY KIWI Motel $$

( 0800 249 700, 03-249 7475; www.cosykiwi.com; 186 Milford Rd; d $150-210; ) This smart motel with modern, well-appointed rooms is just a short stroll from bustling central Te Anau. Breakfast is included, and host Eleanor usually offers a couple of cooked options.

Eating & Drinking

FAT DUCK Restaurant $$

( 03-249 8480; 124 Town Centre; breakfast $10-17, lunch & dinner mains $22-38; 8.30am-late; ) Dishes are tasty and hearty in proportions, with imaginative variations on crispy duck, pork belly and salmon. There’s a bar as long as Doubtful Sound if you just want a drink before kicking on somewhere else.

REDCLIFF BAR & RESTAURANT Restaurant $$$

( 03-249 7431; 12 Mokonui St; mains $29-42; 5pm-late) Housed in a replica old settler’s cottage, Redcliff showcases locally sourced produce in a convivial atmosphere. Try the wild Fiordland venison or tender herby hare. There’s occasional live music and a permanent friendly vibe with excellent service.

RANCH BAR & GRILL Pub

(Town Centre) Look forward to happy hour from 8pm to 9pm and good-value Sunday-night roast dinners ($15). It’s the locals’ choice for the best pub meals in town.

Information

DOC Visitor Centre (Department of Conservation; 03-249 0200; www.doc.govt.nz; cnr Lakefront Dr & Manapouri Hwy; 8.30am-4.30pm) Includes the Great Walks counter for bookings and confirmed tickets for the Milford, Routeburn and Kepler Tracks.

Fiordland i-SITE ( 03-249 8900; www.fiordland.org.nz; 85 Lakefront Dr; 8.30am-5.30pm) Activities, accommodation and bus bookings.

Real Journeys ( 0800 656 501; www.realjourneys.co.nz; 9am-5pm) Fiordland-focused tours and activities.

Getting There & Away

InterCity (www.intercity.co.nz) has daily bus services between Te Anau and Queenstown (2½ hours), Invercargill (2½ hours) and Dunedin (4¾ hours).

Bottom Bus ( 03-477 9083; http://travelheadfirst.com/bottom-bus/) is a hop-on, hop-off bus service linking Te Anau to Queenstown, Invercargill and Milford Sound (1½ hours), and Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) links Te Anau with Queenstown (2½ hours), Invercargill (2½ hours) and Milford Sound (1½ hours).

From November to April, Topline Tours ( 03-249 8059; www.toplinetours.co.nz) run a Te Anau–Queenstown shuttle.

Te Anau–Milford Hwy

If you don’t have the opportunity to hike into Fiordland’s wilderness, the 119km road from Te Anau to Milford is the most easily accessible taste of its vastness and beauty.

The trip takes two to 2½ hours if you drive straight through, but take time to stop and experience the majestic landscape.

Milford Track

The 53.5km Milford Track is one of the world’s finest walks. The number of walkers is limited in the Great Walks season (late October to late April), and you must follow a one-way, four-day set itinerary. Accommodation is only in huts (camping isn’t allowed).

You can walk the track independently or with a guided tour. For independent bookings, contact DOC in Te Anau or book online at www.doc.govt.nz.

The track must be booked during the Great Walks season (late October to late April).

Ultimate Hikes ( 03-450 1940, 0800 659 255; www.ultimatehikes.co.nz; adult/child Dec-Mar from $1995/1790, Apr & Nov $1830/1640) has five-day guided walks staying at private lodges. A one-day 11km sampler is also available (adult/child $195/123).

Sleeping

MILFORD SOUND LODGE Lodge $$

( 03-249 8071; www.milfordlodge.com; just off SH94; sites per person from $18, dm $30-33, d $85) Alongside the Cleddau River, this simple but comfortable lodge has an unhurried, ends-of-the-earth air. There’s no TV, and travellers and trampers relax in the large lounges to discuss their experiences. There’s a tiny shop-cafe-bar and a free shuttle to Milford Sound, just 1.5km away. Very comfortable chalets ($255) enjoy an absolute riverside location.

KNOB’S FLAT Motel $$

( 03-249 9122; www.knobsflat.co.nz; sites per person $10, studio/motel units $120/150) In the grassy Eglinton Valley, 63km from Te Anau, Knob’s Flat has comfortable units catering to walkers and anglers. TV, email and stress have no place here, and mountain bikes can be hired.

Milford Sound

The first sight of Milford Sound is stunning. Sheer rocky cliffs rise out of still, dark waters, and forests clinging to the slopes sometimes relinquish their hold, causing a ‘tree avalanche’ into the waters. The spectacular, photogenic 1692m-high Mitre Peak rises dead ahead.

Activities

ROSCO’S MILFORD KAYAKS Kayaking

( 0800 476 726, 03-249 8500; www.roscosmilfordkayaks.com; trips $130-175) Recommended excursions include the ‘Morning Glory’, a challenging early-morning kayak (around five hours in the boat) the full length of the fiord to Anita Bay, and the ‘Stirling Sunriser’, which includes kayaking under the 151m-high Stirling Falls. Another option includes a 20-minute paddle around Deepwater Basin to Sandfly Point and a 3½-hour walk on the Milford Track ($89).

FIORDLAND WILDERNESS EXPERIENCES Kayaking

MICAH WRIGHT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Doubtful Sound

Massive, magnificent Doubtful Sound is a wilderness area of rugged peaks, dense forest and thundering post-rain waterfalls. It’s one of NZ’s largest sounds: three times the length and 10 times the area of Milford Sound. Doubtful is also much, much less trafficked. If you have the time and the money, it’s an essential experience. Fur seals, dolphins, Fiordland crested penguins and seals are also regular visitors.

Doubtful Sound is only accessible by tour. Real Journeys has a Wilderness Cruise day trip (adult/child $235/65), beginning with a 45-minute boat ride across Lake Manapouri to West Arm power station, followed by a bus ride over Wilmot Pass to the sound, which you explore on a three-hour cruise. Pick-up options from Te Anau or Queenstown are also available. From September to May, Real Journeys also runs a Doubtful Sound overnight cruise.

Other options include Adventure Kayak & Cruise, which offers kayaking day trips ($239) and overnight kayaking and camping trips ($269). Deep Cove Charters runs intimate overnight cruises with a maximum of 12 passengers. This includes meals, and you can fish for your own dinner. Fiordland Explorer Charters offers a day cruise with maximum of 20 people, which includes power-station tour and three hours on the sound.

NEED TO KNOW

Real Journeys ( 0800 656 501; www.realjourneys.co.nz); Adventure Kayak & Cruise ( 0800 324 966; www.fiordlandadventure.co.nz; late Sep-May); Deep Cove Charters ( 0800 249 682; www.doubtful-sound.com; bunk beds per person $500, private cabin $1200); Fiordland Explorer Charters ( 0800 434 673; www.doubtfulsoundcruise.com; day cruise adult/child $220/80)

( 0800 200 434, 03-249-7700; www.seakayakfiordland.co.nz; per person $145; Sep-Apr) Guided six-hour paddles on Milford Sound.

Tours

REAL JOURNEYS Boat Tour

( 0800 656 501; 03-249 7416; www.realjourneys.co.nz; adult/child from $68/22) Lots of cruises from this big company including 1¾-hour scenic cruises (adult $68 to $90, child $22). The company also does 2½-hour nature cruises (adult $75 to $95, child $22) with a nature guide for commentary and Q&A.

JUCY CRUIZE Boat Tour

( 0800 500 121; www.jucycruize.co.nz; adult/child from $65/15) A smaller, less-crowded experience with 1½-hour trips on a comfortable boat with lots of deck space.

MITRE PEAK CRUISES Boat Tour

( 0800 744 633, 03-249 8110; www.mitrepeak.com; adult/child from $68/16.50) Cruises in smallish boats with a maximum capacity of 75. The 4.30pm cruise is good because many larger boats are heading back at this time.

Eating & Drinking

BLUE DUCK CAFÉ & BAR Cafe $$

(snacks $5-15, buffet lunch $17-21; cafe 8.30am-4pm, bar 4pm-late; ) Serving sandwiches and a lunch buffet, and at night the attached bar sees a mix of travellers and trampers tucking in to the $25 beer and pizza deal.

Getting There & Away

Bus

InterCity (www.intercity.co.nz) runs daily bus services from Queenstown (4½ hours) and Te Anau (1½ hours). Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) also runs from Te Anau to Milford Sound. Many bus trips include a boat cruise on the sound; most are around $150 from Te Anau (or around $200 from Queenstown).

SOUTHLAND

Southern Scenic Route

The quiet, unhurried Southern Scenic Route begins in Queenstown and heads south via Te Anau to Tuatapere, Riverton and Invercargill. From Invercargill it continues north through the Catlins to Dunedin. See www.southernscenicroute.co.nz or pick up Southern Scenic Route free map.

Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track

The excellent 53km Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track climbs to craggy subalpine heights with views north to Fiordland and south to Stewart Island, and then descends through lush native forests of rimu and beech to the rugged coast. En route the path crosses a number of towering historic wooden viaducts, including NZ’s highest. Beginning and ending at Bluecliffs Beach on Te Waewae Bay, 20km from Tuatapere, the track takes three fairly long days to complete.

It’s essential to book for this track, which is administered privately rather than by DOC. Contact Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track ( 03-226 6739; www.humpridgetrack.co.nz). No-frills summer bookings cost from $130 for two nights, and there are also guided, jetboating and helihiking options.

The Catlins

If you veer off SH1 and head for the coastal route between Invercargill and Dunedin (via SH92), you wind through the enchanting Catlins, a region that combines lush farmland, native forests and rugged bays. With bushwalks, wildlife-spotting opportunities and lonely beaches to explore, the Catlins is well worth a couple of days.

Activities

CATLINS ADVENTURES Adventure Tour

( 03-415 8339, 027 416 8822; www.catlinsadventures.co.nz; 5 Ocean Gr; per person 1/2 days $175/295) Energetic, switched-on operators offering one- and two-day Catlins scenic tours, river walking ($75 per person), rainforest kayaking ($75 per person) and yellow-eyed penguin viewing ($89 per person). Catlins Adventures have exclusive access to certain areas of the Catlins, and mountain bikes and kayaks are also available for hire.

CATLINS WILDLIFE TRACKERS Wildlife

( 0800 228 5467, 03-415 8613; www.catlins-ecotours.co.nz) Papatowai-based Catlins Wildlife Trackers offer eco-centric guided walks and tours (three days/two nights $800),including all food, accommodation and transport. Guided trips focusing on wildlife are also available.

Tours

BOTTOM BUS Tour

( 03-477 9083; www.bottombus.co.nz; from $175) Does a regular loop from Queenstown to Dunedin, south through the Catlins to Invercargill, along the Southern Scenic Route to Te Anau, then back to Queenstown. It stops at all main points of interest, and you can hop off and catch the next bus coming through. There are lots of pass options. The Southlander pass ($375) lets you start anywhere on the loop and includes a Milford Sound cruise.

CATLINS COASTER Tour

( 03-477 9083; www.catlinscoaster.co.nz; from $210) Run by Bottom Bus and offering day tours and trips through the Catlins from Dunedin and Invercargill. Check the website for details. Departures are more limited in winter.

Information

Contact the main Catlins information centre ( 03-415 8371; www.cluthacountry.co.nz; 20 Ryley St; 9.30am-1pm & 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) in Owaka or the smaller Waikawa visitors centre ( 03-205 8006; waikawamuseum@hyper.net.nz; Main Rd; 10am-5pm; ). The i-SITEs in Invercargill and Balclutha also have lots of Catlins information. Online see www.catlins.org.nz and www.catlins-nz.com.

The Best of the Rest

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF LONELY PLANET MAPS

E-reader devices vary in their ability to show our maps. To get the most out of the maps in this guide, use the zoom function on your device. Or, visit http://media.lonelyplanet.com/ebookmaps and grab a PDF download or print out all the maps in this guide.

THE BEST OF THE REST

Bay of Islands

Taranaki

Stewart Island

Top of chapter

The Best of the Rest

Tramping above Mason Bay, Rakiura National Parkl (Click here   )

COLIN MONTEATH/HEDGEHOG HOUSE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Bay of Islands (Click here)

Much more than a gorgeous bay festooned with islands and dolphins, this part of Northland is where both Maori and pakeha New Zealanders have their roots.

Taranaki (Click here)

New Zealand’s best-looking peak is well worth checking out. Down on the coast is New Plymouth with its impressive museum, art gallery and caffeine scene.

Stewart Island (Click here)

New Zealand’s third-biggest island is oft overlooked… But if you’re looking for quirky, far-flung wilderness and wildlife experiences, you’re in for a treat.

Mt Taranaki (Click here   )

DAVID WALL/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 311

BAY OF ISLANDS

Sailing & Cruising (Click here ) Count dolphins and gorgeous uninhabited islands.

Russell (Click here ) Hell-hole turned holiday haven.

Waitangi Treaty Grounds (Click here ) The birthplace of modern NZ.

Undeniably pretty, the Bay of Islands ranks as one of NZ’s top tourist drawcards. The footage that made you want to come to NZ in the first place no doubt featured lingering shots of lazy, sun-filled days on a yacht floating atop these turquoise waters punctuated by around 150 undeveloped islands.

Dolphin, Bay of Islands

BEN LEWIS/ALAMY ©

Activities

DIVE NORTH Diving

( 09-402 5369; www.divenorth.co.nz; reef & wreck $220) Experienced operators based in Kerikeri but offering free pick-ups from Paihia. Covers all the local dive sites and offers PADI courses.

COASTAL KAYAKERS Kayaking

( 0800 334 661; www.coastalkayakers.co.nz; Te Karuwha Pde, Paihia) Runs guided tours (half/full day $75/95, minimum two people) and multiday adventures. Kayaks (per hour/half/full day $15/40/50) and snorkelling gear (per day $15) can also be rented.

SKYDIVE ZONE Skydiving

( 09-407 7057; www.skydivezoneboi.co.nz; Kerikeri Airport; tandem jump from 16,000/12,000/8000ft $395/325/265) At the time of research, this operator offered the highest tandem jump on the North Island and one of the most scenic.

FLYING KIWI PARASAIL Parasailing

( 09-402 6068; www.parasail-nz.co.nz; solo $99, tandem $89) Departs from both Paihia and Russell wharves for NZ’s highest parasail (1200ft).

Tours

Boat

Of all the bay’s islands, perhaps the most striking is Piercy Island (Motukokako) off Cape Brett, at the bay’s eastern edge. This steep-walled rock fortress is rent by a vast natural arch – the famous Hole in the Rock.

The best way to explore the bay is under sail. In most cases you can either help crew the boat (no experience required), or just spend the afternoon island-hopping, sunbathing, swimming, snorkelling, kayaking and fishing.

EXPLORE NZ Cruises, Sailing

( 09-402 8234; www.explorenz.co.nz; cnr Marsden & Williams Rds, Paihia) This outfit’s swim with the Dolphins Cruise (adult/child $89/45) is a four-hour trip departing at 8am and 12.30pm, with an additional $30 payable if you choose to swim. If you’d like to see dolphins but prefer to stay dry, the four-hour Discover the Bay Cruise (adult/child $95/48) departs at 9am and 1.30pm, heading to the Hole in the Rock and stopping at Urupukapuka Island. This cruise is combined with a trip to Kerikeri Basin in the seven-hour Day Discovery Cruise (adult/child $109/45).

If you’ve a taste for speed, Ocean Adventure (adult/child $95/48) is a 2½-hour blast on a rigid-hulled inflatable to the Hole in the Rock.

FULLERS GREAT SIGHTS Cruises

( 0800 653 339; www.dolphincruises.co.nz; Paihia Wharf) The four-hour Dolphin Cruise (adult/child $95/48) departs daily at 9am and 1.30pm, actively seeking out dolphins and any other marine mammals en route to the Hole in the Rock, stopping at Urupukapuka Island on the way back.

A glamorous option for an overnight cruise is the launch Ipipiri (www.overnightcruise.co.nz; s/d $563/750). On this floating hotel the accommodation is by way of en-suite state rooms. All meals are included, and if you get sick of lazing around the bar on the sundeck, you can partake in kayaking, snorkelling or island walks.

TUCKER THOMPSON Sailing

( 09-402 8430; www.tucker.co.nz) Run by a charitable trust with an education focus, the Tucker is a majestic tall ship offering day sails (adult/child $145/73, including a barbecue lunch) and late afternoon cruises (adult/child $69/35). Talking like a pirate is optional.

CARINO Dolphin Swimming

( 09-402 8040; www.sailingdolphins.co.nz; adult/child $114/69) This 50ft catamaran is the only yacht licensed for swimming with dolphins. A barbecue lunch is available for $6.

ECOCRUZ Sailing

( 0800 432 627; www.ecocruz.co.nz; dm/d $595/1350) A highly recommended three-day/two-night sailing cruise aboard the 72ft ocean-going yacht Manawanui , with an emphasis on the marine environment. Prices include accommodation, food, fishing, kayaking and snorkelling.

GUNGHA II Sailing

( 0800 478 900; www.bayofislandssailing.co.nz; day sail $90) A beautiful 65ft ocean yacht with a friendly crew; lunch included.

MACK ATTACK Jetboating

( 0800 622 528; www.mackattack.co.nz; 9 Williams Rd, Paihia; adult/child $89/40) Fasten your seatbelt for a high-speed 1½-hour Hole in the Rock trip on board a jetboat – good fun and handy if you’re short on time.

Maori

NATIVE NATURE TOURS Cultural, Tramping

( 0800 668 873; www.nativenaturetours.co.nz; 581 Tipene Rd, Motatau; day tramps $190, overnight $375) A local couple formally welcome you to their marae and lead you on tramps into their ancestral lands, including visits to sacred sites and an introduction to Maori food and medicine. Overnight stays include a traditional hangi (earth-cooked meal) and glowworm spotting.

Other

SALT AIR Scenic Flights

( 09-402 8338; www.saltair.co.nz; Marsden Rd, Paihia) Offers a range of scenic flights, including a five-hour light aircraft and 4WD tour to Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach ($425) and helicopter flights out to the Hole in the Rock ($220).

Getting There & Around

Air

Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnz.co.nz) Daily flights from Auckland to Whangarei (35 minutes), Kerikeri (40 minutes) and Kaitaia (45 minutes), and from Wellington to Whangarei (2½ hours).

Salt Air Xpress ( 09-402 8338; www.saltair.co.nz) Flies from Kerikeri to Whangarei (20 minutes) and then on to Auckland’s North Shore (30 minutes), every day except Saturday.

Bus

InterCity ( 09-583 5780; www.intercity.co.nz) InterCity and associated Northliner services head from Auckland to Kerikeri via Waipu, Whangarei and Paihia; and from Paihia to Kaitaia via Kerikeri, Mangonui and Coopers Beach.

Naked Bus ( per min $1.99 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) Has daily buses from Auckland to Paihia (3¾ hours), via Warkworth, Waipu, Whangarei and Kawakawa.

Russell

Although it was once known prosaically as ‘the hellhole of the Pacific’, those coming to Russell for debauchery will be sadly disappointed: they’ve missed the orgies on the beach by 170 years. Instead they’ll find a sweetly historic town that is a bastion of gift shops and B&Bs.

Sights

CHRIST CHURCH Church

(Church St) Creationists may be surprised to learn that Charles Darwin made a donation towards the cost of the construction of this, the country’s oldest church (1836).

RUSSELL MUSEUM Museum

(www.russellmuseum.org.nz; 2 York St; adult/child $7.50/2; 10am-4pm) This small, modern museum has a well-presented Maori section, a large 1:5-scale model of Captain Cook’s Endeavour and a 10-minute video on the town’s history.

Tours

RUSSELL MINI TOURS Minibus

( 0800 64 64 86; www.dolphincruises.co.nz; cnr The Strand & Cass St; adult/child $29/14; 10am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm & 4pm) Minibus tour with commentary.

Sleeping

ARCADIA LODGE B&B $$$

( 09-403 7756; www.arcadialodge.co.nz; 10 Florance Ave; d $195-310; ) The characterful rooms of this 1890 hillside house are decked out with interesting antiques and fine linen, while the breakfast is probably the best you’ll eat in town – organic, delicious and complemented with spectacular views from the deck.

COMMODORE’S LODGE Motel $$$

( 09-403 7899; www.commodoreslodgemotel.co.nz; 28 The Strand; units $200-295; ) Being the envy of every passer-by makes up for the lack of privacy in the front apartments facing the waterfront promenade. Spacious, nicely presented units are the order of the day here, along with a small pool and free kayaks, dinghies and bikes.

The Gables restaurant (Click here   ), Russell

JOHN ELK III/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

HANANUI LODGE & APARTMENTS Motel $$$

( 09-403 7875; www.hananui.co.nz; 4 York St; units $190-320; ) Choose between sparkling motel-style units in the trim waterside lodge or apartments in the newer block across the road. Pick of the bunch are the upstairs waterfront units with views straight over the beach.

DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH Historic Hotel $$

( 09-403 7829; www.theduke.co.nz; 35 The Strand; r $165-360; ) Holding NZ’s oldest pub license, the Duke boasts about ‘serving rascals and reprobates since 1827’, although the building has burnt down twice since then. The upstairs accommodation ranges from small, bright rooms in a 1930s extension to snazzy, spacious doubles facing the water.

Eating

GABLES Modern Nz $$

( 09-403 7670; www.thegablesrestaurant.co.nz; 19 The Strand; mains $27-42) Serving an imaginative take on Kiwi classics (lamb, beef and lots of seafood), the Gables occupies an 1847 building on the waterfront, built using whale vertebrae for foundations. Ask for a table by the windows for watery views.

TUK TUK Thai $$

(19 York St; mains $15-24; 10.30am-11pm; ) Thai fabrics adorn the tables and Thai favourites fill the menu. In clement weather grab a table out front and watch Russell’s little world go by.

Information

Russell Booking & Information Centre ( 09-403 8020; www.russellinfo.co.nz; Russell Pier; 8am-5pm, later in summer)

Getting There & Away

The quickest way to reach Russell by car is via the car ferry (car/motorcycle/passenger $11/5.50/1), which runs every 10 minutes from Opua (5km from Paihia) to Okiato (8km from Russell), between 6.40am and 10pm.

Paihia & Waitangi

The birthplace of NZ (as opposed to Aotearoa), Waitangi inhabits a special, somewhat complex place in the national psyche – aptly demonstrated by the mixture of celebration, commemoration, protest and apathy that accompanies the nation’s birthday (Waitangi Day, 6 February).

It was here that the long-neglected and much-contested Treaty of Waitangi was first signed between Maori chiefs and the British Crown, establishing British sovereignty or something a bit like it, depending on whether you’re reading the English or Maori version of the document.

Joined to Waitangi by a bridge, Paihia would be a fairly nondescript coastal town if it wasn’t the main entry point to the Bay of Islands.

PAUL KENNEDY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Don't Miss

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

It was here on 6 February 1840 that the first 43 Maori chiefs, after much discussion, signed the Treaty of Waitangi with the British Crown (eventually more than 500 would sign it).

The Treaty House was built in 1832 as the four-room home of British resident James Busby. It’s now preserved as a memorial and museum containing displays, which include a copy of the treaty. Just across the lawn, the magnificently detailed whare runanga (meeting house) was completed in 1940 to mark the centenary of the treaty.

International visitors will get more out of what is already quite a pricy admission fee if they pay extra for a guided tour or cultural performance (adult/child $18/10 for each; check the website or call for times).

Finally, the two-hour Culture North Night Show is a dramatisation of Maori history held in the whare runanga. Free transfers from Paihia are included in the price.

NEED TO KNOW

Waitangi Treaty Grounds ( 09-402 7437; www.waitangi.net.nz; 1 Tau Henare Dr; adult/child $25/12; 9am-5pm Apr-Sep, 9am-7pm Oct-Mar); Culture North Night Show ( 09-402 5990; www.culturenorth.co.nz; admission $65; 7.30pm when numbers allow)

Tuck into fresh fish and chips, served as the good lord intended them – in newspaper with a cold beverage in hand – onboard a permanently moored 19th-century tall ship. The views from Shippey’s (www.shippeys.com; Waitangi Bridge; mains $6-12; 10am-late) over the inlet and bay are magical, particularly at sunset.

The Bay of Islands i-SITE ( 09-402 7345; www.visitnorthland.co.nz; Marsden Rd; 8am-5pm Mar–mid-Dec, 8am-7pm mid-Dec–Feb; ) offers information and internet access.

TARANAKI

Taranaki

Mt Taranaki (Click here ) So pretty it hurts.

Puke Ariki (Click here ) Innovative, contemporary and socially astute museum.

Govett-Brewster Art Gallery (Click here ) One of the best regional art galleries in NZ.

Dawson Falls (Click here   ), Egmont National Park

STEPHEN BELCHER/FOTO NATURA/GETTY IMAGES ©

New Plymouth

Dominated (in the best possible way) by Mt Taranaki and surrounded by lush farmland, New Plymouth is this part of NZ’s only international deep-water port. The city has a bubbling arts scene, some fab cafes and a rootsy, outdoorsy focus, with good beaches and Egmont National Park a short hop away.

Sights

PUKE ARIKI Museum

(www.pukeariki.com; 1 Ariki St; 9am-6pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 9am-9pm Wed, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) Translating as ‘Hill of Chiefs’, Puke Ariki is home to the i-SITE, a museum, library, a cafe and the fabulous Arborio restaurant. The excellent museum has an extensive collection of Maori artefacts, plus colonial and wildlife exhibits (...we hope the shark suspended above the lobby isn’t life-size). The regular ‘Taranaki Experience’ show tells the history of the province while the audience sits in podlike seats that rumble and glow.

GOVETT-BREWSTER ART GALLERY Gallery

(www.govettbrewster.com; 42 Queen St; 10am-5pm) The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery is arguably the country’s best regional art gallery. Presenting contemporary – often experimental – local and international shows, it’s most famous for its connection with NZ sculptor, filmmaker and artist Len Lye (1901−80).

Activities

Surfing

The black, volcanic-sand beaches of Taranaki are world renowned for surfing. Close to the eastern edge of town are Fitzroy Beach and East End Beach (allegedly the cleanest beach in Oceania).

BEACH STREET SURF SHOP Surfing

( 06-758 0400; www.taranakisurf.com; 39 Beach St; 2hr lesson $75; 9am-6pm) Close to Fitzroy Beach, this surf shop offers lessons, gear hire and surf tours.

Tramping

The excellent Coastal Walkway (13km) from Bell Block to Port Taranaki, gives you a surf-side perspective on New Plymouth and crosses the sexy new Te Rewa Rewa Bridge.

Sleeping

FITZROY BEACH MOTEL Motel $$

( 06-757 2925; www.fitzroybeachmotel.co.nz; 25 Beach St; s/d $130/150, 2br unit $190; ) This quiet, old-time motel (just 160m from Fitzroy Beach) has been thoroughly redeemed with a major overhaul and extension. Highlights include quality carpets, double glazing, lovely bathrooms, LCD TVs, and an absence of poky studio-style units (all one- or two- bedroom). Free bikes too. Winner!

ISSEY MANOR Boutique Hotel $$

( 06-758 2375; www.isseymanor.co.nz; 32 Carrington St; d $150-210) Friendly Issey is hard to miss(ey): two conjoined Victorian timber houses (1875 and 1910) painted with startling panels of white, orange and black. Inside are four stylish units (two with spa), a guest kitchen, and far more designer touches than you’d expect at these prices. Fab!

WATERFRONT Hotel $$$

( 06-769 5301; www.waterfront.co.nz; 1 Egmont St; r $190-550; ) Sleek and snazzy, the Waterfront is the place to stay, particularly if the boss is paying. The minimalist studios are pretty flash, while the penthouses steal the show with big TVs and little balconies. It’s got terrific views from some – but not all – rooms, but certainly from the curvy-fronted bar and restaurant.

Eating

ARBORIO Mediterranean $$

(www.arborio.co.nz; Puke Ariki, 1 Ariki St; mains $13-34; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Despite looking like a cheese grater, Arborio, in the Puke Ariki building, is the star of New Plymouth’s local food show. The Mediterranean -influenced menu ranges from an awesome Moroccan lamb pizza to pastas, risottos and barbecued chilli squid with lychee-and-cucumber noodle salad. Cocktails and NZ wines are also available.

FREDERIC’S Tapas $$

(www.frederics.co.nz; 34 Egmont St; plates $10-19, mains $20-25; 2pm-late Mon-Thu, 11am-late Fri-Sun) Freddy’s is a fab gastro-bar with quirky interior design (rusty medieval chandeliers, peacock-feather wallpaper, religious icon paintings), serving generous share-plates. Order some meatballs with bell-pepper sauce, or some green-lipped mussels with coconut cream, chilli and coriander to go with your beer.

ELIXIR Cafe $$

(www.elixircafe.co.nz; 117 Devon St E; brunch $7-18, dinner $18-31; 7am-4.30pm Mon, 7am-late Tue-Sat, 8am-4pm Sun) Behind a weird louvered wall facing onto Devon St, Elixir fosters an American-diner vibe, serving up everything from coffee, cake, bagels and eggs on toast, through to more innovative evening fare.

Information

New Plymouth i-SITE ( 06-759 6060, 0800 639 759; www.visitnewplymouthnz.co.nz; Puke Ariki, 1 Ariki St; 9am-6pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 9am-9pm Wed, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) In the Puke Ariki building, with a fantastic interactive tourist-info database.

Getting There & Away

Air

New Plymouth Airport ( 06-755 2250; www.newplymouthairport.com; Airport Dr) is 11km east of the centre off SH3. Scott’s Airport Shuttle ( 06-769 5974, 0800 373 001; www.npairportshuttle.co.nz; adult from $25) operates a door-to-door shuttle to/from the airport.

Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000, 06-757 3300; www.airnewzealand.co.nz; 12 Devon St E; 9am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9.30am-5pm Thu) Daily direct flights to/from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, with onward connections.

Bus

InterCity ( 09-583 5780; www.intercity.co.nz) services numerous destinations including Auckland ($70, 6¼ hours, four daily), Hamilton ($58, four hours, four daily), Palmerston North ($30, four hours, two daily), Wellington ($41, seven hours, two daily) and Whanganui ($38, three hours, two daily).

Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) services run to the following destinations (among many others): Auckland ($30, 6½ hours, one daily), Hamilton ($27, four hours, one daily), Palmerston North ($20, 3½ hours, one daily), Wellington ($26, 6¼ hours, one daily) and Whanganui ($18, 2½ hours, one daily).

Mt Taranaki (Egmont National Park)

A classic 2518m volcanic cone dominating the landscape, Mt Taranaki is a magnet to all who catch his eye. With the last eruption more than 350 years ago, experts say that the mountain is overdue for another go. But don’t let that put you off – this mountain is an absolute beauty and the highlight of any visit to the region.

Activities

Tramping

From North Egmont, the main walk is the scenic Pouakai Circuit, a two- to three-day, 25km loop through alpine, swamp and tussock areas with awesome mountain views. Short, easy walks from here include the Ngatoro Loop Track (one hour), Veronica Loop (two hours) and Connett Loop (40 minutes return).

East Egmont has Potaema Track (30 minutes return) and East Egmont Lookout (30 minutes return); a longer walk is the steep Enchanted Track (two to three hours return).

At Dawson Falls you can do several short walks including Wilkies Pools Loop (one hour return) or the excellent but challenging Fanthams Peak Return (five hours return), which is snowed-in during winter. The Kapuni Loop Track (one-hour loop) runs to the impressive 18m Dawson Falls themselves.

Scenic Flights

HELIVIEW Scenic Flights

( 06-753 0123, 0800 435 426; www.heliview.co.nz; flights from $110) A 20-minute summit flight costs $200 per passenger.

NEW PLYMOUTH AERO CLUB Scenic Flights

( 06-755 0500; www.airnewplymouth.co.nz; flights from $69) A 50-minute, fixed-wing Mt Taranaki summit buzz costs $159 per person (minimum three people).

Sleeping

ALPINE LODGE B&B $$

( 06-765 6620; www.andersonsalpinelodge.co.nz; 922 Pembroke Rd; s/tw/d incl breakfast from $50/100/140; ) With picture-postcard mountain views, this lovely Swiss-style lodge is on the Stratford side of the mountain. Inside are four rooms (three with en suite) and lots of nifty timberwork; outside are billions of birds, a hot tub and some wandering black-faced sheep.

MOUNTAIN HOUSE Lodge $$

( 06-765 6100; www.stratfordmountainhouse.co.nz; Pembroke Rd; s & d $155) This upbeat lodge, on the Stratford side of the mountain (15km from the SH3 turn-off and 3km to the Manganui ski area), has recently renovated, motel-style rooms and a European-style restaurant/cafe (Pembroke Rd; mains $30-35; breakfast, lunch & dinner). DB&B packages available.

Information

North Egmont Visitor Centre ( 06-756 0990; www.doc.govt.nz; Upper Manaia Rd; 8am-4.30pm) Current and comprehensive national park info, plus a greasy-spoon cafe (meals $10 to $18).

Dawson Falls Visitor Centre ( 027 443 0248; www.doc.govt.nz; Manaia Rd; daily Dec-Feb, 9am-4pm Thu-Sun Mar-Nov)

Getting There & Away

There are no public buses to the national park but numerous shuttle-bus/tour operators will gladly take you there for around $40/55 one-way/return:

Outdoor Gurus ( 06-758 4152, 027 270 2932; www.outdoorgurus.co.nz) Pick-up points (New Plymouth) and times to suit; gear hire available.

Taranaki Tours ( 06-757 9888, 0800 886 877; www.taranakitours.com) New Plymouth to North Egmont return. Tours also available.

STEWART ISLAND

Rakiura Track (Click here) One of NZ’s greatest ‘Great Walks’.

Spotting a Kiwi (Click here ) Wait! What’s that, there... In the bushes...

Meeting the Locals (Click here ) Bend an elbow at the bar with some islanders.

Coast of Stewart Island

TIM MOORE/ALAMY ©

Travellers who undertake the short jaunt to Stewart Island will be rewarded with a warm welcome from both the local kiwi and the local Kiwis. NZ’s ‘third’ island is a good place to spy the country’s shy, feathered icon in the wild, and the close-knit community of Stewart Islanders (population 420) are relaxed hosts.

Once you’ve said g’day to the locals, there’s plenty of active adventure on offer including kayaking and setting off on a rewarding tramp in Stewart Island’s Rakiura National Park.

Sights

ULVA ISLAND Island

An early naturalist, Charles Traill, was honorary postmaster here. His postal service was replaced by one at Oban in 1921, and in 1922 Ulva Island was declared a bird sanctuary. The air is alive with the song of tui and bellbirds, and you’ll also see kaka, weka, kakariki and kereru (NZ pigeon). Good walking tracks in the island’s northwest are detailed in Ulva: Self-Guided Tour ($2), available from the Department of Conservation (DOC). During summer, water taxis depart from Golden Bay wharf to Ulva Island.

RAKIURA MUSEUM Museum

(Ayr St, Oban; adult/child $2/50c; 10am-1.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-2pm Sun) Models of various ferries from over the years, Maori artefacts, and exhibitions on whaling and early European settlement.

Activities

Tramping

There are a number of tramps, ranging from half an hour to seven hours; the majority are easily accessed from Halfmoon Bay. Pick up Day Walks ($2) from DOC Rakiura National Park Visitor Centre. The walk to Observation Rock (30 minutes return) has good views over Paterson Inlet. Continue past the old stone house at Harrold Bay to Acker’s Point Lighthouse (three hours return), for good views of Foveaux Strait and the chance to see blue penguins and a colony of titi.

RAKIURA TRACK Tramping

(www.doc.govt.nz) The 30km, three-day Rakiura Track is a well-defined, easy circuit starting and ending at Oban with copious bird life, beaches and lush bush en route. It requires a moderate level of fitness and is suitable for tramping year-round. The entire circuit is 37km in total (including the road sections) and showcases spectacular scenery.

The Rakiura Track is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks and bookings are required all year round to stay in the huts and at campsites. These must be made in advance, either online at www.doc.govt.nz or at the DOC Rakiura National Park Visitor Centre on Stewart Island.

Kiwi-Spotting

The Stewart Island kiwi (Apteryx australis lawryi) is a distinct subspecies, with a larger beak and longer legs than its northern cousins. Kiwi are common over much of Stewart Island, particularly foraging around beaches for sand hoppers under washed-up kelp.

BRAVO ADVENTURE CRUISES Birdwatching

( 03-219 1144; www.kiwispotting.co.nz) To see a kiwi in the wild, Bravo Adventure Cruises runs twilight tours ($140). In order to protect the kiwi, numbers are limited so make sure you book well ahead. Kiwi-spotting is also available with Ruggedy Range.

Other Activities

RUGGEDY RANGE WILDERNESS EXPERIENCE Tours, Birdwatching

( 0508 484 337, 03-219 1066; www.ruggedyrange.com; cnr Main Rd & Dundee St) Excellent guide Furhana Ahmad takes small groups on guided walks with an ecofriendly, conservation angle. A very popular excursion is the half-day trip to Ulva Island ($110); one- and two-night expeditions to see kiwi in the wild ($470 to $860) are also available. Guided sea kayaking starts at $95, and you can also buy tramping and camping gear.

RAKIURA KAYAKS Kayaking

( 027 868 0318; www.rakiura.co.nz) Paterson Inlet consists of 100 sq km of sheltered, kayak-friendly waterways, with 20 islands, DOC huts and two navigable rivers. A popular trip is a paddle to Freshwater Landing (7km upriver from the inlet) followed by a three- to four-hour walk to Mason Bay to see kiwi in the wild. Rakiura Kayaks rents kayaks (half/full day $50/65) and also runs guided paddles around the inlet ($65 to $105).

STEWART ISLAND EXPERIENCE Guided Tours

( 0800 000 511; www.stewartislandexperience.co.nz) Runs 2½-hour Paterson Inlet cruises (adult/child $85/22) via Ulva Island; 1½-hour minibus tours of Oban and the surrounding bays ($45/22); and 45-minute semisubmersible cruises ($85/42.50).

Sleeping

OBSERVATION ROCK LODGE Lodge $$$

( 03-219 1444, 027 444 1802; www.observationrocklodge.co.nz; 7 Leonard St; d from $195) Tucked away in native bush with views south to Golden Bay, this luxury lodge is run by the lovely Annett Eiselt from Perfect Dinner. A sauna, hot tub, and plenty of hidden sanctuaries around the bird-studded property add up to a relaxing island escape.

PILGRIM COTTAGE Rental House $$

( 03-219 1144; www.kiwispotting.co.nz; 8 Horseshoe Bay Rd; d $140) This quaint, weatherboard cottage in a leafy oasis near town has wooden furnishings, a potbelly stove and a well-equipped kitchen. Expect lots of bird life.

PORT OF CALL B&B B&B $$$

( 03-219 1394; www.portofcall.co.nz; Leask Bay Rd; s/d incl breakfast $345/385) Take in ocean views, get cosy before an open fire, or explore an isolated beach. Port of Call is 1.5km southwest of Oban on the way to Acker’s Point. It has a two-night minimum stay, and guided walks and water-taxi trips can also be arranged.

Kiwi (Click here   )

TERRY WHITTAKER/ALAMY ©

BAY MOTEL Motel $$

( 03-219 1119; www.baymotel.co.nz; 9 Dundee St; d $165-185) Modern, comfortable units with lots of light and views over the harbour. Some units have big spa tubs, all rooms have full kitchens and two are wheelchair-accessible. When you’ve exhausted the island’s bustling after-dark scene, Sky TV’s on hand for on-tap entertainment.

TE TAHI BED & BREAKFAST B&B $$$

( 03-219 1487, 0800 725 487; www.rakiuracharters.co.nz; 14 Kaka Ridge Rd; d $200) A sunny conservatory immersed in verdant bush, ocean views and colourfully decorated bedrooms are the standouts at this friendly B&B just five minutes’ walk from the bustling hub of Oban and Halfmoon Bay.

Eating & Drinking

SOUTH SEA HOTEL Pub $$

(26 Elgin Tce; mains $20-30; 7am-9pm; ) This cafe-style spot does superb fish and robust seafood chowder. The attached pub is the town’s main drinking hole, enlivened by occasional weekend bands and a loads-of-fun pub quiz that kicks off at 6.30pm on Sunday nights.

PERFECT DINNER International $$

( 027 444 1802, 03-219 1444; perfect dinner@observationrocklodge.co.nz; 3-course menu per person $89; Oct-May) Relocated from Germany, Annett Eiselt specialises in ‘moveable feasts’. She’s available to provide three-course menus or gourmet platters ($69) wherever you desire on the island; at your accommodation, on a beach, or somewhere else with equally terrific views. Produce is always seasonal, and ideally organic and sourced locally.

Information

The Invercargill i-SITE has a wide range of information. Online, see www.stewartisland.co.nz.

There are no banks on Stewart Island.

DOC Rakiura National Park Visitor Centre ( 03-219 0002; www.doc.govt.nz; Main Rd; 8am-5pm daily Jan-Mar, 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri & 10am-2pm Sat-Sun Apr-late Oct, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri late Oct-Dec) Visit the free exhibition here to understand Stewart Island’s flora and fauna.

Post office (Elgin Tce) At Stewart Island Flights.

Stewart Island Experience ( 03-219 1456; www.stewartislandexperience.co.nz; 12 Elgin Tce; 8.30am-6pm) In the big red building; books accommodation and activities. Also handles sightseeing tours and rents scooters, cars, fishing rods, dive gear and golf clubs.

Getting There & Away

Air

Rakiura Helicopters ( 03-219 1155; www.rakiurahelicopters.co.nz; 151 Main Rd) Available for transfers from Bluff ($250 per person), scenic flights ($50 to $785 per person) and charter flights for hunters and trampers.

Stewart Island Flights ( 03-218 9129; www.stewartislandflights.co.nz; Elgin Tce; adult/child one-way $115/75, return $195/115) Flies between the island and Invercargill three times daily.

Boat

Stewart Island Experience ( 03-212 7660, 0800 000 511; www.stewartislandexperience. co.nz; Main Wharf) The passenger-only ferry runs between Bluff and Oban (adult/child $69/34.50) around three times daily. Book a few days ahead in summer. The crossing takes one hour and can be a rough ride. Cars and campervans can be stored in a secure car park at Bluff for an additional cost.

Getting Around

Water taxis offer pick-ups and drop-offs to remote parts of the island – a handy service for trampers. Try Stewart Island Water Taxi & Eco Guiding ( 03-219 1394), Aihe Eco Charters & Water Taxi ( 03-219 1066; www.aihe.co.nz) or Sea View Water Taxi ( 03-219 1014; www.seaviewwatertaxi.co.nz).

Rent a scooter (per half/full day $60/70) or a car (per half/full day $70/115) from Stewart Island Experience.

In Focus

NEW ZEALAND TODAY

HISTORY

FAMILY TRAVEL

ENVIRONMENT

MAORI CULTURE

ACTIVE NEW ZEALAND

Top of chapter

New Zealand Today

Kiwis love sharing their spectacular country with visitors and seeing it anew through foreign eyes

Family tramping at Aoraki/Mt Cook (Click here   )

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Shaky Isles

There’s no denying it: New Zealand has had it tough over the last few years. The country may be a long way away from just about everywhere, but it’s not immune to the vagaries of the global economy. In September 2010, just as it was edging out of its worst recession in 30 years, a magnitude 7.1 earthquake struck near Christchurch, the nation’s second-largest city. The damage was extensive but miraculously no lives were lost, partly because it occurred in the early hours of the morning when people were in their beds (by way of comparison, Haiti’s slightly smaller earthquake earlier that year killed more than 316,000 people).

While the clean-up was continuing on the East Coast, tragedy struck on the West Coast when an explosion at the Pike River coalmine, near Greymouth, sealed 29 men inside. All hope of rescue ended on 24 November when a second large explosion ripped through the mine.

Then, in the early afternoon of 22 February 2011, a magnitude 6.3 earthquake struck Christchurch. This time the city wasn’t so lucky and 181 people lost their lives. Canterbury has barely had a break since then, experiencing literally hundreds of aftershocks: a 6.4 magnitude earthquake killed an elderly man in June 2011; a 5.8 magnitude rattled Christmas shoppers on 23 December 2011; and a 5.5 magnitude got the new year off to a shaky start on 2 January 2012.

Just when it seemed that things couldn’t get any worse, a fully loaded container ship hit the Astrolabe Reef in October 2011 and proceeded to leak heavy fuel oil into the Bay of Plenty. As we write, the recovery continues, with the fuel tanks drained and a substantial proportion of the containers removed – yet bad weather continues to wash debris and rotting food onto surrounding beaches.

Pause, Engage

In the midst of all this doom and gloom, New Zealanders have soldiered on sto ically, with the people of Christchurch proving remarkably resilient in the face of what is still an ongoing event.

Throughout September and October 2011, the influx of tourists for the Rugby World Cup provided a welcome distraction. Kiwis love sharing their spectacular country with visitors and in turn seeing it anew through foreign eyes. They never tire of being reminded of the rugged beauty of their beaches, mountains, fiords, glaciers, native forests and thermal regions. Although Christchurch missed out on hosting any games (its brand new stadium, constructed for the event, lay in ruins), its rattled residents couldn’t help but be cheered by the feel-good success of the tournament – and, of course, the national team’s victory.

In the face of all that’s occurred, you might be surprised by the extent to which the average Kiwi will genuinely want you to have a really, really good time during your stay. It’s in these interactions with everyday, eager-to-please Kiwis that lasting memories are made. In the words of an enduring Maori proverb: He aha te mea nui o te ao? He tangata! He tangata! He tangata! (What is the most important thing in the world? It is people! It is people! It is people!).

Top of chapter

History

Early Maori pa site, north of Dunedin

DAVID WALL / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

New Zealand’s history isn’t long but it is fast. In less than a thousand years these islands have produced two new peoples: the Polynesian Maori and European New Zealanders. The latter are often known by their Maori name ‘Pakeha’ (though not all like the term). NZ shares some of its history with the rest of Polynesia, and with some other European settler societies, but also has its unique features.

Making Maori

The first settlers of NZ were the Polynesian forebears of today’s Maori. Beyond that, there are a lot of question marks. Exactly where in east Polynesia did they come from: the Cook Islands, Tahiti, the Marquesas? When did they arrive? Did the first settlers come in one group or several?

Prime sites for first settlement were warm coastal gardens for the food plants brought from Polynesia (kumara or sweet potato, gourd, yam and taro); sources of workable stone for knives and adzes; and areas with abundant big game. The first settlers spread far and fast, from the top of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island within the first 100 years. High-protein diets are likely to have boosted population growth.

By about 1400, however, with big-game supply dwindling, Maori economics turned from big game to small game – forest birds and rats – and from hunting to gardening and fishing. A good living could still be made, but it required detailed local knowledge, steady effort and complex communal organisation, hence the rise of the Maori tribes. Competition for resources increased, as did conflict, and this led to the building of increasingly sophisticated fortifications, known as pa.

The Maori had no metals and no written language (and no alcoholic drinks or drugs). But their culture and spiritual life was rich and distinctive. Below Ranginui (sky father) and Papatuanuku (earth mother) were various gods of land, forest and sea, joined by deified ancestors over time. The mischievous demigod Maui was particularly important.

Maori traditional performance art, the group singing and dancing known as kapa haka, has real power, even for modern audiences. Visual art, notably woodcarving, is something special – ‘like nothing but itself’ in the words of 18th-century explorer-scientist Joseph Banks.

For more on Maori culture, Click here.

Talk the Talk

Linguistic similarities between Maori and Tahitian indicate neighbourly relations in the distant past as well as their shared origin. Maori is about as similar to Tahitian as Spanish is to French, despite the 4294km separating these island groups.

Enter Europe

NZ became an official British colony in 1840, but the first authenticated contact between Maori and the outside world took place almost two centuries earlier in 1642, in Golden Bay at the top of the South Island. Two Dutch ships sailed from Indonesia to search for a southern land and anything valuable it might contain. If native people were encountered, the commander, Abel Tasman, was instructed to pretend that he was ‘by no means eager for precious metals, so as to leave them ignorant of the value of the same’.

When Tasman’s ships anchored in the bay, local Maori came out in their canoes to make the traditional challenge: friends or foes? Misunderstanding this, the Dutch challenged back, by blowing trumpets. When a boat was lowered to take a party between the two ships, it was attacked. Four crewmen were killed. Tasman sailed away and did not come back; nor did any other European for 127 years. But the Dutch did leave a name: ‘Nieuw Zeeland’ or ‘New Sealand’.

Contact between Maori and Europeans was renewed in 1769, when English and French explorers arrived, under James Cook and Jean de Surville. Relations were more sympathetic, and exploration continued, motivated by science, profit and great power rivalry. Cook made two more visits between 1773 and 1777, and there were further French expeditions.

Unofficial visits, by whaling ships in the north and sealing gangs in the south, began in the 1790s. The first mission station was founded in 1814, in the Bay of Islands, and was followed by dozens of others: Anglican, Methodist and Catholic. Surprisingly, the most numerous category of visitor was probably American. New England whaling ships favoured the Bay of Islands for rest and recreation; 271 called there between 1833 and 1839 alone. To whalers, ‘rest and recreation’ meant sex and drink. Their favourite haunt, the little town of Kororareka (now Russell), was known to the missionaries as ‘the hellhole of the Pacific’.

One or two dozen bloody clashes dot the history of Maori–European contact before 1840, but given the number of visits, interracial conflict was modest. Europeans needed Maori protection, food and labour, and Maori came to need European articles, especially muskets. Whaling stations and mission stations were linked to local Maori groups by intermarriage, which helped keep the peace. Most warfare was between Maori and Maori: the terrible intertribal ‘Musket Wars’ of 1818–36.

Europe brought such things as pigs (at last) and potatoes, which benefited Maori, while muskets and diseases had the opposite effect. The Musket Wars killed perhaps 20,000 people, and new diseases did considerable damage too. By 1840, the Maori had been reduced to a population of about 70,000, a decline of at least 20%. Maori bent under the weight of European contact, but they certainly did not break.

History Museums

1 TE PAPA (CLICK HERE)

2 AUCKLAND MUSEUM (CLICK HERE)

3 WAIKATO MUSEUM (CLICK HERE)

4 CANTERBURY MUSEUM (CLICK HERE)

5 ROTORUA MUSEUM (CLICK HERE)

Making Pakeha

By 1840, Maori tribes described local Europeans as ‘their Pakeha’, and valued the profit and prestige they brought. Maori wanted more of both, and concluded that accepting nominal British authority was the way to get them. At the same time, the British government was overcoming its reluctance to undertake potentially expensive intervention in NZ. In 1840, the two peoples struck a deal, symbolised by the treaty first signed at Waitangi on 6 February that year. The Treaty of Waitangi now has a standing not dissimilar to that of the Constitution in the US, but is even more contested. The original problem was a discrepancy between British and Maori understandings of it. The English version promised Maori full equality as British subjects in return for complete rights of government. The Maori version also promised that Maori would retain their chieftainship, which implied local rights of government. The problem was not great at first, because the Maori version applied outside the small European settlements. But as those settlements grew, conflict brewed.

In 1840, there were only about 2000 Europeans in NZ, with the shanty town of Kororareka (now Russell) as the capital and biggest settlement. By 1850, six new settlements had been formed with 22,000 settlers between them. About half of these had arrived under the auspices of the New Zealand Company and its associates. The company was the brainchild of Edward Gibbon Wakefield, who also influenced the settlement of South Australia. From the 1850s, his settlers, who included a high proportion of upper-middle-class gentlefolk, were swamped by succeeding waves of immigrants that continued to wash in until the 1880s. These people were part of the great British and Irish diaspora that also populated Australia and much of North America. Small groups of Germans, Scandinavians and Chinese made their way in, though the last faced increasing racial prejudice from the 1880s, when the Pakeha population reached half a million.

Much of the mass immigration from the 1850s to the 1870s was assisted by the provincial and central governments, which also mounted large-scale public works schemes, especially in the 1870s under Julius Vogel. In 1876, Vogel abolished the provinces on the grounds that they were hampering his development efforts. The last imperial governor with substantial power was the talented but Machiavellian George Grey, who ended his second governorship in 1868. Thereafter, the governors (governors-general from 1917) were largely just nominal heads of state; the head of government (the premier or prime minister) had more power. The central government, originally weaker than the provincial governments, the imperial governor and the Maori tribes, eventually exceeded the power of all three.

The Maori tribes did not go down without a fight, however. The first clash took place in 1843 in the Wairau Valley, now a wine-growing district. In 1845, more serious fighting broke out in the Bay of Islands, when Hone Heke sacked a British settlement. Pakeha were able to swamp the few Maori living in the South Island, but the fighting of the 1840s confirmed that the North Island at that time comprised a European fringe around an independent Maori heartland.

In the 1850s, settler population and aspirations grew, and fighting broke out again in 1860. The wars burned on sporadically until 1872 over much of the North Island. In the early years, a Maori nationalist organisation, the King Movement, was the backbone of resistance. In later years, some remarkable prophet-generals, notably Titokowaru and Te Kooti, took over. Most wars were small-scale, but the Waikato War of 1863–64 was not. This conflict, fought at the same time as the American Civil War, involved armoured steamships, ultramodern heavy artillery, telegraph and 10 proud British regular regiments. Despite the odds, the Maori won several battles, such as that at Gate Pa, near Tauranga, in 1864. But in the end they were ground down by European numbers and resources. Maori political, though not cultural, independence ebbed away in the last decades of the 19th century. It finally expired when police invaded its last sanctuary, the Urewera Mountains, in 1916.

History Online

For a thorough overview of NZ history from Gondwanaland to today, visit www.history-nz.org. The Ministry for Culture & Heritage’s history website (www.nzhistory.net.nz) is also an excellent source of info on NZ history, including the New Zealand Land Wars.

Treaty House (Click here   ), Waitangi

PHOTOGRAPHER: JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Welfare & Warfare

From the 1850s to the 1880s, despite conflict with Maori, the Pakeha economy boomed on the back of wool exports, gold rushes and massive overseas borrowing for development. The crash came in the 1880s, when NZ experienced its Long Depression. In 1890, the Liberals came to power, and stayed there until 1912, helped by a recovering economy. The Liberals were NZ’s first organised political party, and the first of several governments to give NZ a reputation as ‘the world’s social laboratory’. NZ became the first country in the world to give women the vote in 1893, and introduced old-age pensions in 1898. The Liberals also introduced a long-lasting system of industrial arbitration, but this was not enough to prevent bitter industrial unrest in 1912–13. This happened under the conservative ‘Reform’ government, which had replaced the Liberals in 1912. Reform remained in power until 1928, and later transformed itself into the National Party. Renewed depression struck in 1929, and the NZ experience of it was as grim as any. The derelict little farmhouses still seen in rural areas often date from this era.

In 1935, a second reforming government took office: the First Labour government, led by Michael Joseph Savage, easily NZ’s favourite Australian. For a time, the Labour government was considered the most socialist government outside Soviet Russia. But, when the chips were down in Europe in 1939, Labour had little hesitation in backing Britain.

NZ had also backed Britain in the Boer War (1899–1902) and WWI (1914–18), with dramatic losses in WWI in particular. NZ, a peaceful-seeming country, has spent much of its history at war. In the 19th century it fought at home; in the 20th, overseas.

Historic Atmosphere

1 NAPIER, HAWKE’S BAY (CLICK HERE)

2 WAITANGI TREATY GROUNDS, BAY OF ISLANDS (CLICK HERE)

3 DUNEDIN, OTAGO (CLICK HERE)

4 DEVONPORT, AUCKLAND (CLICK HERE)

Better Britons?

British visitors have long found NZ hauntingly familiar. This is not simply a matter of the British and Irish origin of most Pakeha. It also stems from the tightening of NZ links with Britain from 1882, when refrigerated cargoes of food were first shipped to London. By the 1930s, giant ships carried frozen meat, cheese and butter, as well as wool, on regular voyages taking about five weeks one way. The NZ economy adapted to the feeding of London, and cultural links were also enhanced. This tight relationship has been described as ‘recolonial’, but it is a mistake to see NZ as an exploited colony. Average living standards in NZ were normally better than in Britain, as were the welfare and lower-level education systems. New Zealanders had access to British markets and culture, and they contributed their share to the latter as equals. The list of ‘British’ writers, academics, scientists, military leaders, publishers and the like who were actually New Zealanders is long. Indeed, New Zealanders, especially in war and sport, sometimes saw themselves as a superior version of the British – the Better Britons of the south.

‘Recolonial’ NZ prided itself, with some justice, on its affluence, equality and social harmony. But it was also conformist, even puritanical. Until the 1950s, it was technically illegal for farmers to allow their cattle to mate in fields fronting public roads, for moral reasons. The 1953 American movie, The Wild One, was banned until 1977. Sunday newspapers were illegal until 1969, and full Sunday trading was not allowed until 1989. Licensed restaurants hardly existed in 1960, nor did supermarkets or TV. Notoriously, from 1917 to 1967, pubs were obliged to shut at 6pm (see the boxed text, Click here).

There were also developments in cultural nationalism, beginning in the 1930s but really flowering from the 1970s. Writers, artists and film-makers were by no means the only people who ‘came out’ in that era.

Coming In, Coming Out

The ‘recolonial’ system was shaken several times after 1935, but managed to survive until 1973, when Mother England ran off and joined the Franco-German commune now known as the EU. NZ was beginning to develop alternative markets to Britain, and alternative exports to wool, meat and dairy products. Wide-bodied jet aircraft were allowing the world and NZ to visit each other on an increasing scale. NZ had only 36,000 tourists in 1960, compared with more than two million a year now. Women were beginning to penetrate first the upper reaches of the workforce and then the political sphere. Gay people came out of the closet, despite vigorous efforts by moral conservatives to push them back in. University-educated youths were becoming more numerous and more assertive.

The Six O’Clock Swill

From 1917 to 1967, NZ liquor laws dictated that pubs shut their doors at 6pm – a puritanical concession aimed at preserving morality in Kiwi society. In the cities, after-work hordes would storm the pubs at 5.05pm, chugging down as many beers as possible before 6pm – the ‘Six O’Clock Swill’. In the country, however, the dictum was often ignored, especially on the South Island’s marvellously idiosyncratic West Coast.

From 1945, Maori experienced both a population explosion and massive urbanisation. In 1936, Maori were 17% urban and 83% rural. Fifty years later, these proportions had reversed. The immigration gates, which until 1960 were pretty much labelled ‘whites only’, widened, first to allow in Pacific Islanders for their labour, and then to allow in (East) Asians for their money.

Historic Buildings

1 AUCKLAND ART GALLERY (CLICK HERE)

2 DUNEDIN RAILWAY STATION (CLICK HERE)

3 NATIONAL TOBACCO COMPANY BUILDING, NAPIER (CLICK HERE)

4 CIVIC THEATRE, AUCKLAND (CLICK HERE)

5 EMBASSY THEATRE, WELLINGTON (CLICK HERE)

6 ANTIGUA BOATSHEDS, CHRISTCHURCH (CLICK HERE)

In 1984, NZ’s third great reforming government was elected – the Fourth Labour government, led nominally by David Lange and in fact by Roger Douglas, the Minister of Finance. This government adopted an antinuclear foreign policy, delighting the left, and a more market-driven economic policy, delighting the right. NZ’s numerous economic controls were dismantled with breakneck speed. Middle NZ was uneasy about the antinuclear policy, which threatened NZ’s ANZUS alliance with Australia and the US. But in 1985, French spies sank the antinuclear protest ship Rainbow Warrior in Auckland Harbour, killing one crewman. The lukewarm US condemnation of the French act brought middle NZ in behind the antinuclear policy, which became associated with national independence. Other New Zealanders were uneasy about the economic policy, but failed to come up with a convincing alternative. Revelling in their new freedom, NZ investors engaged in a frenzy of speculation, and suffered even more than the rest of the world from the economic crash of 1987.

The early 21st century is an interesting time for NZ. Like NZ food and wine, its film and literature are flowering as never before, and the new ethnic mix is creating something very special in popular music. There are continuities, however – the pub, the sportsground, the quarter-acre section, the bush, the beach and the bach (holiday home) – and they are part of the reason people like to come here. Realising that NZ has a great culture, and an intriguing history, as well as a great natural environment, will double the bang for your buck.

Timeline

AD 1000–1200

Archaeological evidence suggests Maori arrived in NZ around AD 1200, but earlier dates have been suggested.

1642

First European contact: Abel Tasman arrives, but leaves without landing after a skirmish with Maori.

1769

James Cook and Jean de Surville visit; despite some violence, both communicate with Maori.

1790s

Whaling ships and sealing gangs arrive. Europeans depend on Maori for food, water and protection.

1840

Treaty of Waitangi signed by 40 chiefs in a sovereignty settlement. NZ becomes a nominal British colony.

1853–56

Provincial and central elected governments are established, and the first elections held for the NZ parliament.

1860–61

Conflict with the government over Maori land at Waitara sparks the First Taranaki War; Waikato tribes get involved.

1861

Gold is discovered in Otago; the regional population climbs from 13,000 to over 30,000 in six months.

1865–69

Second Taranaki War: Maori resist First Taranaki War land confiscations and come close to victory.

1893

NZ becomes the first country in the world to grant the vote to women.

1914–18

WWI: 100,000 NZ troops suffer almost 60,000 casualties, mostly in France.

1939–45

WWII: 200,000 NZ troops participate; 100,000 Americans arrive to defend NZ from the Japanese.

1975

Waitangi Tribunal is set up to investigate grievances of Maori people in relation to the Treaty of Waitangi.

1981

Rugby tour by South African Springboks divides NZ; many Kiwis take a strong anti-apartheid stance.

1985

Greenpeace antinuclear protest ship Rainbow Warrior is sunk in Auckland Harbour by French spies.

1992

The government begins reparations for land confiscated in the Land Wars and confirms Maori fishing rights.

2004

Maori TV begins broadcasting, committed to NZ content and Maori language and culture.

2005

Helen Clark is returned in NZ’s third successive Labour government. The Maori Party takes four seats.

2008

John Key’s National Party ousts Clark’s Labour after nine years in government.

2011

New Zealand hosts the Rugby World Cup: the All Blacks (only just!) win the final.

STU FORSTER / GETTY IMAGES ©

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Family Travel

Overlooking Lake Tekapo (Click here   )

PHILIP & KAREN SMITH/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

New Zealand is supereasy to tackle with the kids in tow. Accommodation is usually kid-friendly, the public health care system is world class, and Kiwi food doesn't usually have chilli in it! Baby formula and disposable nappies (diapers) are widely available in cities and towns, most of which have public rooms where mothers (and sometimes fathers) can go to nurse a baby or change a nappy.

Practicalities

For helpful general tips on getting around with the kids, see Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children.

Accommodation

Many motels and holiday parks have playgrounds, games and DVDs, and occasionally fenced swimming pools and trampolines. Cots and highchairs aren’t always available at budget and midrange accommodation, but top-end hotels supply them and often provide child-minding services. B&Bs aren’t usually amenable to families – many promote themselves as kid-free. Most hostels focusing on the backpacker party demographic don’t welcome kids either, but some of the bigger operators do (including YHA hostels).

Babysitting

For specialised childcare, try www.rockmybaby.co.nz, or look under ‘babysitters’ and ‘child care centres’ in the Yellow Pages directory.

Car Hire

Procuring a kiddie car-seat for your rental car is no problem with the larger companies (Avis, Budget, Europcar etc), but some smaller car-hire companies struggle with the concept. Double-check that the company you choose can supply and fit the correctly sized seat for your child. Some companies may legally require you to fit the seat yourself. Note that kids under six months old may require a baby ‘capsule’ instead. To avoid delays on arrival, have this conversation with your car-hire company when you’re booking.

Discounts

Child concessions (and family rates) are often available for accommodation, tours and attraction entry fees, along with air, bus and train transport, with discounts of as much as 50% off the adult rate. Do note, however, that the definition of ‘child’ can vary from under 12 to under 18 years; toddlers (under four years) usually get free admission and transport.

Eating Out

There are plenty of family-friendly restaurants in NZ with highchairs and kids’ menus. Pubs often serve kids’ meals and most cafes and restaurants (with the exception of upmarket eateries) can handle the idea of child-sized portions.

Sights & Activities

Fabulous kids’ playgrounds (with slides, swings, see-saws etc) proliferate across NZ; local visitor information centres can point you in the right direction.

Fun For Kids

1 GEYSERS, MUD BUBBLES AND STINKY GASSES, ROTORUA (CLICK HERE)

2 AUCKLAND ZOO (CLICK HERE)

3 CABLE CAR, WELLINGTON (CLICK HERE)

4 SHOTOVER JET, QUEENSTOWN (CLICK HERE)

5 PUNTING ON THE AVON, CHRISTCHURCH (CLICK HERE)

Some regions produce free information booklets geared towards kids’ sights and activities; one example is Kidz Go! (www.kidzgo.co.nz), which details child-friendly activities and restaurants in the larger urban centres.

Other handy websites for families include www.kidspot.co.nz, with lots of kid-centric info from pregnancy through to school-age, and www.kidsnewzealand.com, which has plenty of activities suggestions. Finally, www.kidsfriendlynz.com has extensive links to various facets of NZ kiddie culture.

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Environment

Kiwi watching over its eggs

STEVEN VIDLER/EURASIA PRESS/CORBIS ©

One of the main reasons travellers come to New Zealand is to experience the country's superb landscapes. From snowy summits and volcanoes to glaciers, beaches and ancient forests, NZ has a wealth of natural assets. But this is also a fragile environment, and the pressures of agriculture, forestry and population growth have all taken a toll.

The Land

NZ is geologically young – less than 10,000 years old. Straddling two vast tectonic plates, nature’s strongest forces are at work here: volcanoes, geothermal geysers, hot springs and mud pools abound… not to mention earthquakes.

The South Island has the higher mountains: the 650km-long, 3754m-high Southern Alps. Moisture-laden westerly winds dump an incredible 15m of rain annually on the Alps’ western slopes. The North Island has a more even rainfall, snares most of the country’s volcanic activity (especially around Rotorua and Taupo) and is spared the temperature extremes of the South – which can plunge when a wind blows in from Antarctica.

But on either island, the important thing to remember, especially if you are tramping at high altitude, is that NZ has a maritime climate. This means weather can change with lightning speed, catching out the unprepared.

A third of NZ – more than five million hectares – is protected in national parks and reserves, administered by the DOC (Department of Conservation; www.doc.govt.nz).

Environmental Issues

Places to See a Kiwi

1 AUCKLAND ZOO (CLICK HERE)

2 RAINBOW SPRINGS KIWI WILDLIFE PARK, ROTORUA (CLICK HERE)

3 WILLOWBANK WILDLIFE RESERVE, CHRISTCHURCH (CLICK HERE)

4 ZEALANDIA, WELLINGTON (CLICK HERE)

5 KIWI BIRDLIFE PARK, QUEENSTOWN (CLICK HERE)

The NZ Forest Accord protects native forests, and NZ is also famous for its strong antinuclear stance, but to describe NZ as entirely ‘clean and green’ would be inaccurate.

Birds

European grazing systems have left many hillsides barren and eroded, and despite increasing demand for organic food, most NZ farming still relies on chemical fertilisers, pesticides and herbicides.

NZ’s energy consumption has grown phenomenally over the last 20 years – NZ is one of the most inefficient energy users in the developed world. Public transport is often inadequate and ecological values still play little part in urban planning.

Other hot issues include Didymosphenia geminata (aka Didymo or ‘rock snot’) algae in waterways, fixed-net fishing endangering dolphins, and the curse of introduced possums, rats and stoats.

Flora & Fauna

NZ may be relatively young, geologically speaking, but its plants and animals go back a long way. The tuatara, for instance, an ancient reptile unique to these islands, is a Gondwanaland survivor closely related to the dinosaurs, while many of the distinctive flightless birds (ratites) have distant African and South American cousins.

The now-extinct, flightless moa was 3.5m tall and weighed more than 200kg; you can see skeletons at Auckland Museum (Click here). Rumours of late survivals of this giant bird abound, but none have been authenticated. So if you see a chunky ostrichlike bird in your travels, photograph it – you may have just made the greatest zoological discovery of the last 100 years!

Kiwis are threatened and nocturnal, so it’s rare to spot one in the wild. Other bird-nerd favourites include royal albatrosses, white herons, Fiordland crested and yellow-eyed penguins, Australasian gannets and dotterels. More common are tuis, bellbirds, fantails, pukeko, morepork owls and weka.

If you spend any time in the South Island high country, you are likely to come up against the fearless and inquisitive kea – an uncharacteristically drab green parrot with bright red underwings. Kea are common in the car parks of the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers, where they hang out for food scraps or tear rubber from car windscreens.

Marine Mammals

Cruising the waters off NZ are whales, orcas, seals and dolphins. Kaikoura is the place to see them – sperm whales, fur seals and dusky dolphins are here year-round, and you’ll also see migrating humpback, pilot, blue and southern right whales. You can swim with dolphins and seals here, too, and also at Akaroa and Tauranga.

Trees

Keep an eye out for yellow-flowering kowhai in spring, and red pohutukawa and rata in summer. Mature, centuries-old kauri are stately emblems of former days: see them at Northland’s Waipoua Kauri Forest. Also look for rimu (red pine), totara (favoured for Maori war canoes), mamuka (black tree fern) and ponga (silver tree fern).

Towering Kauri

‘When Chaucer was born this was a sturdy young tree. When Shakespeare was born it was 300 years old. It predates most of the great cathedrals of Europe. Its trunk is sky-rocket straight and sky-rocket bulky, limbless for half its height. Ferns sprout from its crevices. Its crown is an asymmetric mess, like an inverted root system. I lean against it, give it a slap. It’s like slapping a building. This is a tree out of Tolkien. It’s a kauri.’

JOE BENNETT, A LAND OF TWO HALVES, REFERRING TO THE MCKINNEY KAURI IN NORTHLAND.

You won’t get far into the bush without coming across one of its most prominent features: tree ferns. NZ is a land of ferns (more than 80 species) and most easily recognised are the mamaku (black tree fern) – which grows to 20m and can be seen in damp gullies throughout the country – and the 10m-high ponga (silver tree fern) with its distinctive white underside.

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Maori Culture

Piupiu    (beaded skirts) of kapa haka dancers

PAUL KENNEDY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

If you're looking for a Maori experience in New Zealand you'll fi nd it – a performance, a conversation, an art gallery, a tour. Maori are a diverse people: some are engaged with traditional cultural networks and pursuits; others are occupied with adapting tradition and placing it into a dialogue with our rapidly globalising culture.

Maori Then

Three millennia ago people began moving eastwards into the Pacific, sailing against the prevailing winds and currents (hard to go out, easier to return safely) in large, double-hulled ocean-going craft. Some stopped at Tonga and Samoa; others settled the central East Polynesian tropical islands.

The first arrival in Aotearoa (NZ’s Maori name) was the great navigator Kupe, whose wife Kuramarotini gave Aotearoa its name: ‘ He ao, he ao tea, he ao tea roa!’ (A cloud, a white cloud, a long white cloud!)

The early settlers moved around a lot, but when they settled, Maori established mana whenua (regional authority), whether by military campaigns or by peaceful intermarriage and diplomacy.

Maori lived in kainga (small villages) with associated gardens. From time to time people would leave their home base and go to harvest seasonal foods. When peaceful life was interrupted by conflict, Maori would withdraw to a pa (fortified village).

Then Europeans arrived. See the History chapter, Click here, for more.

Maori Today

Today’s Maori culture is marked by new developments in arts, business, sport and politics. Many historical grievances still stand, but some iwi (tribes: Ngai Tahu and Tainui, for example) have settled historical issues and are major forces in the NZ economy. Maori have also addressed the decline in Maori language use by establishing kohanga reo, kura kaupapa Maori and wananga (Maori-medium schools). Maori radio stations abound; Maori Television (www.maoritelevision.com) and the Maori-language station Te Reo (www.tereo.tv) occupy TV screens. In late May or early June, Matariki (Maori New Year) is a time for learning, planning and preparing as well as singing, dancing and celebrating.

The Hongi

The Maori hongi greeting involves pressing the forehead and nose together firmly, shaking hands and perhaps offering a greeting such as ‘ Kia ora’ or ‘ Tena koe’. Some prefer one press (for two or three seconds, or longer); others prefer two shorter (press, release, press).

Religion

Christian churches and denominations are important in the Maori world: there are televangelists, mainstream churches for regular and occasional worship, and two major Maori churches (Ringatu and Ratana).

But in the (non-Judaeo Christian) beginning there were the atua Maori, the Maori gods, and for many Maori the gods remain a vital and relevant force. They are spoken of on the marae and in wider Maori contexts. The traditional Maori creation story is well known and widely celebrated.

Visiting Marae

As you travel around NZ, you will see many marae complexes, which should only be visited by arrangement with the owners. Marae complexes include a wharenui (meeting house), which often embodies an ancestor. Its ridge is the backbone, the rafters are ribs, and it shelters the descendants.

Hui (gatherings) are held at marae. Issues are discussed, classes conducted, milestones celebrated and the dead farewelled. Te reo Maori (the Maori language) is prominent, sometimes exclusively so.

If you visit a marae as part of an organised group, you’ll be welcomed in a powhiri – a process involving a ceremonial wero (challenge), a karanga (ceremonial call) between women, whaikorero (speech making) and a waiata (song) . The visitors’ speaker then places koha (a gift, usually an envelope of cash) on the marae. The hosts then invite the visitors to hariru (shake hands) and hongi (greet). Visitors and hosts are now united and share food and drink.

The Arts

Some of the largest collections of Maori arts (or taonga, meaning treasures) are at Wellington’s Te Papa museum, the Auckland Museum and Canterbury Museum in Christchurch.

Traditional Maori Arts

Carving

Traditional Maori carving, with its intricate detailing and curved lines, can transport the viewer. It’s quite amazing to consider that it was traditionally done with painstakingly made stone tools, until the advent of iron (when nails suddenly became very popular). The apex of carving today is the whare whakairo (carved meeting house), with traditional motifs used to interpret stories and embody ancestors.

Weaving

Weaving was an essential art that provided clothing, nets and cordage, footwear, mats and kete (bags). Some woven items were major works – korowai (cloaks) could take years to finish. Woven predominantly with flax and bird feathers, they are worn now on ceremonial occasions. Flax was (and still is) the preferred medium for weaving, but contemporary weavers use everything in their work: raffia, copper wire, rubber – even polar fleece and garden hoses!

Haka

As any All Blacks rugby fan will tell you, experiencing the awe-inspiring, uplifting haka – chanted words, vigorous body movements and pukana (when performers distort their faces, eyes bulging with the whites showing, perhaps with tongue extended) – can get the adrenaline flowing. The haka isn’t just a war dance; it’s also used to welcome visitors, honour achievement, express identity or to present strong opinions.

Places to Experience Haka

1 WHAKAREWAREWA THERMAL VILLAGE (CLICK HERE)

2 WAITANGI TREATY GROUNDS (CLICK HERE)

3 TAMAKI MAORI VILLAGE (CLICK HERE)

4 TE PAPA (CLICK HERE)

5 AUCKLAND MUSEUM (CLICK HERE)

Ta Moko

Ta moko is the Maori art of tattoo, traditionally worn by men on their faces, thighs and buttocks, and by women on their chins and lips. Historically, moko were tapped into the skin using pigment and a bone chisel, but the modern tattooist’s gun is more common now. Many Maori wear moko with quiet pride and humility.

Contemporary Maori Arts

A distinctive theme in much contemporary Maori art is the tension between traditional Maori ideas and modern artistic mediums and trends. For general information on Maori arts today, see www.maoriart.org.nz.

Writing

Key Maori authors to scan the shelves for include Patricia Grace (Potiki, Cousins, Dogside Story, Tu ), Witi Ihimaera (Pounamu, Pounamu; The Matriarch; Bulibasha; The Whale Rider ), Keri Hulme (The Bone People, Stonefish ), Alan Duff (Once Were Warriors ) and James George (Hummingbird, Ocean Roads ). Poetry buffs should seek out anything by the late, lamented Hone Tuwhare (Deep River Talk: Collected Poems ).

Theatre

Theatre is a strong area of the Maori arts today. Instead of dimming the lights and immediately beginning the performance, many Maori theatre groups begin with a stylised powhiri, with space for audience members to respond to the play, and end with a karakia (blessing or prayer) or farewell.

It’s worth looking out for Taki Rua (www.takirua.co.nz), a prominent theatre group and veteran independent producer of Maori work.

Film

Barry Barclay’s Ngati (1987) was NZ’s first nondocumentary, feature-length movie by a Maori director. Mereta Mita was the first Maori woman to direct a fiction feature: Mauri (1988). Other films with significant Maori input include the harrowing Once Were Warriors and the uplifting Whale Rider. Oscar-shortlisted Taika Waititi wrote and directed Eagle vs Shark and Boy.

The New Zealand Film Archive (www.filmarchive.org.nz) in Auckland and Wellington is a great place to experience Maori film, with most showings either free or inexpensive.

Dance

Contemporary Maori dance often takes its inspiration from kapa haka (group cultural dance) and traditional Maori imagery. The exploration of pre-European life also provides inspiration.

NZ’s leading specifically Maori dance company is the Atamira Dance Collective (www.atamiradance.co.nz), which produces critically acclaimed, beautiful and challenging work.

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Active New Zealand

Shotover River jetboat (Click here   )

JOHN ELK III/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

New Zealand's astounding natural assets encourage even the laziest lounge lizards to drag themselves outside. Outdoor activities across the nation are accessible and supremely well organised. Commercial operators can hook you up with whatever kind of experience fl oats your boat – from bungy jumping off a canyon to sea kayaking around a national park – but don't miss the chance to engage with nature one-on-one, a million miles from home – just you and the great void.

Tramping

Tramping (aka bushwalking, hiking or trekking) is the perfect vehicle for a close encounter with NZ’s natural beauty. There are thousands of kilometres of tracks − some well marked, some barely a line on a map − plus an excellent network of huts enabling trampers to avoid lugging tents and (in some cases) cooking gear.

Before plodding off into the forest, get up-to-date track and weather info and maps from the appropriate authority − usually the Department of Conservation (DOC; www.doc.govt.nz) or regional i-SITE visitor information centres. If you have your heart set on a summer walk along one of the Great Walks, check out the booking requirements and get in early. If you want to avoid the crowds, go in the shoulder season. DOC staff can also help plan tramps on lesser-known tracks.

Online, www.tramper.co.nz is a fantastic website with track descriptions and ratings. For safety tips, see www.mountainsafety.org.nz.

The Great Walks

NZ’s nine official Great Walks (one of which is actually a river trip!) are the country’s most popular tracks. Natural beauty abounds, but prepare yourself for crowds.

On the North Island, the 46km, three- to four-day Lake Waikaremoana Track in Te Urewera National Park is easy-to-medium in difficulty, offering lake views, bush-clad slopes and swimming. Through the volcanic landscape of Tongariro National Park, the Tongariro Northern Circuit is a medium-to-hard three- to four-day tramp over 41km. The easy Whanganui Journey is a 145km, five-day canoe or kayak down the Whanganui River in Whanganui National Park.

Down south, the hugely popular, two- to five-day Abel Tasman Coast Track is rated easy and takes in 51km of beaches and bays of Abel Tasman National Park. The 78km Heaphy Tack in Kahurangi National Park is a medium-hard-rated walk over four to six days. The easy-to-medium 60km Kepler Track in Fiordland National Park passes lakes, rivers, gorges, glacial valleys and beech forest over three or four days. Also in Fiordland are the easy, four-day Milford Track over 54km, and the medium-difficulty Routeburn Track over three days and 32km. On remote Stewart Island, the Rakiura Track (36km over three days) is a medium-difficulty track with bird life (kiwi!), beaches and lush bush.

Other Tracks: Long & Short

1 TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING (CLICK HERE)

2 QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK (CLICK HERE)

3 COAST TO COAST WALKWAY, AUCKLAND (CLICK HERE)

4 BANKS PENINSULA TRACK (CLICK HERE)

5 MAUAO BASE TRACK, MT MAUNGANUI (CLICK HERE)

Passes & Bookings

To tramp these tracks you’ll need to buy Great Walk Tickets before setting out. These track-specific tickets cover you for hut accommodation (from $10 to $51.10 per adult per night, depending on the track and season) and/or camping ($5 to $20.40 per adult per night). You can camp only at designated camping grounds; note there’s no camping on the Milford Track. In the off-peak season (May to September), you can use Backcountry Hut Passes (per adult $92, valid 6 months) or pay-as-you-go hut tickets (camping $5, huts $10-15) instead of Great Walk tickets on Great Walks except for the Lake Waikaremoana Track, Heaphy Track, Abel Tasman Coast Track and Rakiura Track. Kids under 18 camp and stay in huts for free on all Great Walks.

There’s a booking system in place for Great Walk huts and campsites. Trampers must book their chosen accommodation and specify dates when they purchase Great Walk tickets. Bookings are required year-round for the Lake Waikaremoana Track, Abel Tasman Coast Track, Heaphy Track and Rakiura Track. Bookings are required for peak season only (October to April) on the Kepler Track, Milford Track, Routeburn Track, Tongariro Northern Circuit and Whanganui Journey.

Bookings/ticket purchases can be made online (www.doc.govt.nz), by email (greatwalksbooking@doc.govt.nz) or via DOC offices close to the tracks. Bookings open in mid-July each year.

Guided Walks

If you’re new to tramping or just want a more comfortable experience than the DIY alternative, several companies can escort you through the wilds, usually staying in comfortable huts (showers!), with meals cooked and equipment carried for you.

Places on the North Island where you can sign up for a guided walk include Mt Taranaki, Lake Waikaremoana and Tongariro National Park. On the South Island try Kaikoura, the Milford Track, Heaphy Track or Hollyford Track. Prices for a four-night guided walk start at around $1500, and rise towards $2000 for deluxe guided experiences.

Skiing & Snowboarding

NZ is an essential southern-hemisphere destination for snow bunnies, with downhill, cross-country and ski mountaineering all passionately pursued. Heliskiing, where choppers lift skiers to the top of long, isolated stretches of virgin snow, also has its fans. The NZ ski season generally runs from June to October, though it can go as late as November.

NZ’s commercial ski areas aren’t generally set up as ‘resorts’ with chalets, lodges or hotels. Rather, accommodation and après-ski carousing are often in surrounding towns, connected with the slopes via daily shuttles.

Some people like to be near Queenstown’s party scene or Mt Ruapehu’s volcanic landscapes; others prefer the quality high-altitude runs on Mt Hutt, uncrowded Rainbow or less-stressed club skiing areas. Club areas are publicly accessible and usually less crowded and cheaper than commercial fields, even though nonmembers pay a higher fee. Many club areas have lodges you can stay at (subject to availability).

Visitor information centres in NZ and Tourism New Zealand (www.newzealand.com) have info on the various ski areas and can make bookings and organise packages. Lift passes cost anywhere from $40 to $95 per adult per day (half-price for kids). Lesson-and-lift packages are available at most areas. Ski and snowboard equipment rental starts at around $40 a day (cheaper for multiday hire).

Online, see www.brownbear.co.nz/ski and www.snow.co.nz.

North Island

The key North Island ski spots are Whakapapa and Turoa on Mt Ruapehu (www.mtruapehu.com) in Tongariro National Park, and Tukino (www.tukino.co.nz) on the eastern side of Mt Ruapehu. Manganui (www.skitaranaki.co.nz) on Mt Taranaki offers volcano-slope, club-run skiing.

South Island

Most of the South Island action revolves around the resort towns of Queenstown and Wanaka. Iconic ski fields near here include Coronet Peak (www.nzski.com), the Remarkables (www.nzski.com), Treble Cone (www.treblecone.com) and Cardrona (www.cardrona.com). NZ’s only commercial Nordic (cross-country) ski area is Snow Farm New Zealand (www.snowfarmnz.com), near Wanaka. Snow Park NZ (www.snowparknz.com), also near Wanaka, is NZ’s only dedicated freestyle ski and snowboard area.

In South Canterbury there’s Ohau (www.ohau.co.nz) on Mt Sutton, Mt Dobson (www.dobson.co.nz), Fox Peak (www.foxpeak.co.nz) and Roundhill (www.roundhill.co.nz), which is perfect for beginners and intermediates.

In Central Canterbury, try Mt Hutt (www.nzski.com), Mt Potts (www.mtpotts.co.nz), Porters (www.skiporters.co.nz), Temple Basin (www.templebasin.co.nz), Craigieburn Valley (www.craigieburn.co.nz), Broken River (www.brokenriver.co.nz), Mt Olympus (www.mtolympus.co.nz) or the family-friendly Mt Cheeseman (www.mtcheeseman.co.nz) near Christchurch.

Northern Canterbury opportunities include Hanmer Springs (www.skihanmer.co.nz) and Mt Lyford (www.mtlyford.co.nz). In the Nelson region is the low-key Rainbow (www.skirainbow.co.nz), with minimal crowds and good cross-country skiing. Awakino (www.skiawakino.com) in North Otago is a small player, but good for intermediate skiers.

Heliskiing

NZ’s remote heights are tailor-made for heliskiing, with operators covering a wide off-piste area along the Southern Alps. Costs range from around $800 to $1200 for three to eight runs. HeliPark New Zealand (www.helipark.co.nz) at Mt Potts is a dedicated heliski park. Heliskiing is also available at Coronet Peak, Treble Cone, Cardrona, Mt Hutt, Mt Lyford, Ohau and Hanmer Springs.

Extreme Stuff

The fact that a pants-wetting, illogical activity such as bungy jumping is now an everyday pursuit in NZ says much about how ‘extreme sports’ have evolved here. Bungy, skydiving, jetboating and white-water rafting are all well established, all against the laws of nature, and all great fun!

Bungy Jumping

Bungy jumping (hurtling earthwards from bridges with nothing between you and eternity but a gigantic rubber band strapped to your ankles) has plenty of daredevil panache.

Queenstown is a spider-web of bungy cords, including a 43m jump off the Kawarau Bridge, a 47m leap from the top of a gondola, and the big daddy, the 134m Nevis Highwire. Other South Island bungy jumps include Waiau River (near Hanmer Springs) and Mt Hutt ski field. On the North Island, try Taupo, Taihape, Auckland and Rotorua. Varying the theme, try the 109m-high Shotover Canyon Swing or Nevis Arc in Queenstown, both seriously high rope swings: swooosh...

Skydiving

Ejecting yourself from a plane at high altitude is big business in NZ. There are plenty of professional operators, and at most drop zones the views on the way up (not to mention on the way down) are sublime.

At the time of writing, safety concerns had sparked a wholesale review of skydiving in NZ, with operators having to comply with stringent new Civil Aviation Authority regulations. Ask your operator if they have CAA accreditation before you take the plunge.

Check the website of the New Zealand Parachute Federation (www.nzpf.org) for info and operator listings.

Jetboating

Hold onto your breakfast – it’s passenger-drenching 360-degree spins ahoy! On the South Island, the Shotover and Kawarau Rivers (Queenstown) and the Buller River (Westport) have fab jetboating. On the North Island, the Whanganui, Motu, Rangitaiki and Waikato Rivers are excellent for jetboating, and there are sprint jets at the Agrodome in Rotorua. Jetboating around the Bay of Islands in Northland is also de rigueur.

White-Water Rafting

There are almost as many white-water rafting possibilities as there are rivers in the country, and there’s no shortage of companies to get you into the rapids. Whitewater NZ (www.rivers.org.nz) covers all things white-water. The New Zealand Rafting Association (NZRA; www.nz-rafting.co.nz) has an online river guide, and lists registered operators.

Mountain Biking

NZ is laced with quality mountain-biking opportunities. Mountain bikes can be hired in towns such as Queenstown, Wanaka, Nelson, Picton, Taupo and Rotorua, which also have repair shops. Some traditional tramping tracks are also open to mountain bikes.

Various companies will take you up to the tops of mountains and volcanoes (eg Mt Ruapehu, Christchurch’s Port Hills, Cardrona and the Remarkables) so you can hurtle back down. Rotorua’s Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest offers famously good mountain biking, as do the 42 Traverse (close to Tongariro National Park), the Alexandra goldfield trails in Central Otago, the new Queenstown Bike Park, and Twizel near Mt Cook. Also try Waitati Valley and Hayward Point near Dunedin, Canaan Downs near Abel Tasman National Park, Mt Hutt, Methven and the Banks Peninsula.

Cycle Touring

If you’re only in NZ for a short time, you mightn’t have considered doing any cycle touring, but with good roads and even better scenery, it’s a magical way to see the country. Most towns offer touring-bike hire at either backpacker hostels or specialist bike shops, and there are repair shops in the bigger towns. Anyone planning a cycling tour (particularly of the South Island) should check out the self-guided tour options at www.cyclehire.co.nz as well as Lonely Planet’s Cycling New Zealand.

Aerial Sightseeing

Small planes and helicopters circle the skies on sightseeing trips (called ‘flightseeing’ by the locals) all over NZ, operating from local aerodromes. It’s a great (but not particularly environmentally friendly) way to absorb the country’s contrasting landscapes and soaring mountains, plus some seldom-viewed terrain deep within national parks. Some of the most photo-worthy trips take place over the Bay of Islands, the Bay of Plenty (especially Whakaari Island), Tongariro National Park (from Taupo), Mt Taranaki, Aoraki/Mt Cook, the West Coast glaciers and Fiordland (from Te Anau).

Snowboarding, a popular sport in New Zealand

PHOTOGRAPHER: CAVAN IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Sea Kayaking

Sea kayaking is a fantastic way to see the coast, and get close to wildlife you’d otherwise never see.

Highly rated sea-kayaking areas around NZ include the Hauraki Gulf, the Bay of Islands, Coromandel Peninsula, Marlborough Sounds, Abel Tasman National Park and Fiordland. The Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (KASK; www.kask.org.nz) is the main NZ organisation. The Sea Kayak Operators Association of New Zealand (www.skoanz.org.nz) website has a map of paddling destinations with links to operators.

Surfing

NZ has a sensational mix of quality waves perfect for both beginners and experienced surfers. Point breaks, reefs, rocky shelves and hollow, sandy beach breaks can all be found.

NZ water temperatures and climate vary greatly from north to south. For comfort while surfing, wear a wet suit. In summer on the North Island you can get away with wearing a spring suit and boardies; on the South Island, a 2mm to 3mm steamer can do the job. Steamers are essential in winter.

Top North Island surf spots include Raglan, Mt Maunganui, Taranaki’s Surf Highway 45 and the East Coast around Mahia Peninsula. Down south try the Kaikoura Peninsula, Dunedin and the Punakaiki on the West Coast.

Online, www.surfingnz.co.nz lists surf schools, while www.surf.co.nz provides information on many great surf spots.

Horse Trekking

Unlike some other parts of the world where beginners get led by the nose around a paddock, here you can really get out into the countryside on a farm, forest or beach. Rides range from one-hour jaunts (from around $50) to week-long, fully catered treks.

For equine info online, see the Auckland SPCA Horse Welfare Auxiliary Inc (www.horsetalk.co.nz) website. For trek-operator listings, see www.truenz.co.nz/horsetrekking or www.newzealand.com.

Survival Guide

DIRECTORY

TRANSPORT

Accommodation

Business Hours

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Food & Drink

Gay & Lesbian Travellers

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Money

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Shopping

Telephone

Time

Tourist Information

Travellers with Disabilities

Visas

Women Travellers

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Top of chapter

Directory

Accommodation

Across New Zealand, you can bed down in historic guesthouses, facility-laden hotels, uniform motel units, beautifully situated campsites, and hostels that range in character from clean-living to tirelessly party-prone.

Accommodation listings are in order of authorial preference, based on our assessment of atmosphere, cleanliness, facilities, location and bang for your buck.

»Budget Up to $100 per en-suite double

»Midrange $100 to $180 per en-suite double

»Top-end More than $180 per en-suite double

Price ranges generally increase by 20% to 25% in the largest cities (Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch). If you’re travelling during peak tourist seasons, book well in advance. Accommodation is most in demand (and priciest) during the summer holidays from Christmas to late January, at Easter and during winter in snow resort towns such as Queenstown.

Visitor information centres provide reams of local accommodation information, often in the form of folders detailing facilities and up-to-date prices; many can also make bookings on your behalf.

For online listings, visit Automobile Association (AA; www.aa.co.nz) and Jasons (www.jasons.com).

PRACTICALITIES

»News Leaf through Auckland’s New Zealand Herald, Wellington’s Dominion Post or Christchurch’s the Press newspapers, or check out www.stuff.co.nz.

»TV Watch one of the national government-owned TV stations (TV One, TV2, TVNZ 6, TVNZ 7, Maori TV and the 100% Maori-language Te Reo) or the subscriber-only Sky TV (www.skytv.co.nz).

»Radio Tune in to Radio National for current affairs and Concert FM for classical and jazz (see www.radionz.co.nz for frequencies). Kiwi FM (www.kiwifm.co.nz) showcases NZ music; Radio Hauraki (www.hauraki.co.nz) cranks out classic rock.

»DVDs Kiwi DVDs are encoded for Region 4, which includes Mexico, South America, Central America, Australia, the Pacific and the Caribbean.

»Electrical To plug yourself into the electricity supply (230V AC, 50Hz), use a three-pin adaptor (the same as in Australia; different to British three-pin adaptors).

»Weights & measures NZ uses the metric system.

B&BS

Bed and breakfast (B&B) accommodation is a growth industry in NZ, popping up in the middle of cities, in rural hamlets and on stretches of isolated coastline, with rooms on offer in everything from suburban bungalows to stately manors owned by one family for generations.

B&B tariffs are typically in the $120 to $180 bracket (per double), though some places charge upwards of $300 per double.

Online resources:

»Bed & Breakfast Book (www.bnb.co.nz)

»Bed and Breakfast Directory (www.bed-and-breakfast.co.nz)

FARMSTAYS

Farmstays open the door on the agricultural side of NZ life, with visitors encouraged to get some dirt beneath their fingernails at orchards, and dairy, sheep and cattle farms. Costs can vary widely, with B&Bs generally ranging from $80 to $120. Some farms have separate cottages where you can fix your own food, while others offer low-cost, shared, backpacker-style accommodation.

PUBS, HOTELS & MOTELS

»Pubs The least expensive form of NZ hotel accommodation is the humble pub. As is often the case elsewhere, some of NZ’s old pubs are full of character (and characters), while others are grotty, ramshackle places that are best avoided, especially by women travelling solo. In the cheapest pubs, singles/doubles might cost as little as $30/60 (with a shared bathroom down the hall), though $50/80 is more common.

BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE

For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out hotels.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

»Hotels At the top end of the hotel scale are five-star international chains, resort complexes and architecturally splendorous boutique hotels, all of which charge a hefty premium for their mod cons, snappy service and/or historic opulence. We quote ‘rack rates’ (official advertised rates) for such places throughout this book, but discounts and special deals often mean you won’t have to pay these prices.

»Motels NZ’s towns have a glut of nondescript, low-rise motels and ‘motor lodges’, charging between $80 and $180 for double rooms. Most are modernish (though decor is often mired in the ’90s) and have similar facilities, namely tea- and coffee-making equipment, fridge, and TV – prices vary with standard.

Business Hours

Note that most attractions close on Christmas Day and Good Friday.

»Shops & businesses 9am to 5.30pm Monday to Friday, and 9am to 12.30pm or 5pm Saturday. Late-night shopping (until 9pm) in larger cities on Thursday and/or Friday nights. Sunday trading in most big towns and cities.

»Supermarkets 8am to 7pm; often to 9pm or later in cities.

»Banks 9.30am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday; some city branches also open Saturday mornings.

»Post offices 8.30am to 5pm Monday to Friday; larger branches also 9.30am to 1pm Saturday. Postal desks in newsagencies open later.

»Restaurants Food until 9pm, often until 11pm on Fridays and Saturdays.

»Cafes 7am to 4pm or 5pm.

»Pubs Noon until late; food from noon to 2pm and from 6pm to 8pm.

Climate

Customs Regulations

For the low-down on what you can and can’t bring into NZ, see the New Zealand Customs Service (www.customs.govt.nz) website. Per-person duty-free allowances:

»1125mL of spirits or liqueur

»4.5L of wine or beer

»200 cigarettes (or 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco)

»dutiable goods up to the value of $700.

It’s a good idea to declare any unusual medicines. Bio-security is another customs buzzword – authorities are serious about keeping out any diseases that may harm NZ’s agricultural industry. Tramping gear such as boots and tents will be checked and may need to be cleaned before being allowed in. You must declare any plant or animal products (including anything made of wood), and food of any kind.

Discount Cards

»International Student Identity Card The internationally recognised ISIC is produced by the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org), and issued to full-time students aged 12 and over. It provides discounts on accommodation, transport and admission to attractions.

»New Zealand Card This is a $35 discount pass (www.newzealandcard.com) that’ll score you between 5% and 50% off a range of accommodation, tours, sights and activities.

Electricity

Food & Drink

The NZ foodie scene once slavishly reflected Anglo-Saxon stodge, but nowadays the country’s restaurants and cafes are adept at throwing together traditional staples (lamb, beef, venison, green-lipped mussels) with Asian, European and pan-Pacific flair.

For online listings:

»www.dineout.co.nz

»www.menus.co.nz

On the liquid front, NZ wine is world class (especially sauvignon blanc and pinot noir), and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a NZ town of any size without decent espresso. NZ microbrewed beers have also become mainstream.

Costs

Eating listings in this book are classified either as budget ($), midrange ($$) or top-end ($$$). Listings are in order of authorial preference, based on our assessment of ambience, service, value, and of course, deliciousness.

»Budget Under $15 for a main course

»Midrange $15 to $35 for a main course

»Top-end More than $35 for a main course

Vegetarians & Vegans

Most large urban centres have at least one dedicated vegetarian cafe or restaurant. See the New Zealand Vegetarian Society (www.vegsoc.org.nz) restaurant guide for listings. Also look for the vegetarian icon in Eating listings in this book, as it indicates a good vegetarian selection.

Gay & Lesbian Travellers

The gay and lesbian tourism industry in NZ isn’t as high-profile as it is in neighbouring Australia, but homosexual communities are prominent in the main cities of Auckland and Wellington, with myriad support organisations across both islands. NZ has relatively progressive laws protecting the rights of gays and lesbians; the legal minimum age for sex between consenting persons is 16. Generally speaking, Kiwis are fairly relaxed and accepting about homosexuality, but that’s not to say that homophobia doesn’t exist.

Resources

There are loads of websites dedicated to gay and lesbian travellers. Gay Tourism New Zealand (www.gaytourismnewzealand.com) is a good starting point, with links to various sites. Other worthwhile queer websites include the following:

»www.gaynz.com

»www.gaynz.net.nz

»www.lesbian.net.nz

»www.gaystay.co.nz

Check out the nationwide magazine express (www.gayexpress.co.nz) every second Wednesday for the latest happenings, reviews and listings on the NZ gay scene.

Health

New Zealand is one of the healthiest countries in the world in which to travel. Diseases such as malaria and typhoid are unheard of, and the absence of poisonous snakes or other dangerous animals makes this a very safe region to get off the beaten track and out into the beautiful countryside.

Medications

Bring medications in their original, clearly labelled containers. A signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications, including generic names, is also a good idea. If carrying syringes or needles, be sure to have a physician’s letter documenting their medical necessity.

Vaccinations

NZ has no vaccination requirements for any traveller, but the World Health Organization recommends that all travellers should be covered for diphtheria, tetanus, measles, mumps, rubella, chickenpox and polio, as well as hepatitis B, regardless of their destination. Ask your doctor for an International Certificate of Vaccination (or ‘the yellow booklet’), which will list all the vaccinations you’ve received.

Insurance

A watertight travel insurance policy covering theft, loss and medical problems is essential. Some policies specifically exclude designated ‘dangerous activities’ such as scuba diving, parasailing, bungy jumping, white-water rafting, motorcycling, skiing and even tramping. If you plan on doing any of these things (a distinct possibility in NZ), make sure the policy you choose covers you fully.

You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather than you having to pay on the spot and claim later. If you have to claim later, make sure you keep all documentation. Some policies ask you to call back (reverse charges) to a centre in your home country where an immediate assessment of your problem is made. Check that the policy covers ambulances and emergency medical evacuations by air.

It’s worth mentioning that under NZ law, you cannot sue for personal injury (other than exemplary damages). Instead, the country’s Accident Compensation Corporation (ACC; www.acc.co.nz) administers an accident compensation scheme that provides accident insurance for NZ residents and visitors to the country, regardless of fault. This scheme, however, does not cancel out the necessity for your own comprehensive travel-insurance policy, as it doesn’t cover you for such things as loss of income or treatment in your home country or ongoing illness.

Worldwide cover for travellers from over 44 countries is available online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings/insurance.do.

Internet Access

Internet Cafes

Internet cafes in the bigger urban centres or tourist areas are usually brimming with high-speed terminals. Facilities are a lot more haphazard in small, out-of-the-way towns, where a so-called internet cafe could turn out to be a single terminal in the corner of a DVD store.

Many public libraries have free internet access, but there can be a limited number of terminals.

Internet access at cafes ranges anywhere from $4 to $6 per hour. There’s often a minimum period of access, usually 10 or 15 minutes.

Wireless Access & Internet Service Providers

Increasingly, you’ll be able to find wi-fi access around the country, from hotel rooms to pub beer gardens to hostel dining rooms. Usually you have to be a guest or customer to access the internet at these locations – you’ll be issued with a code, a wink and a secret handshake to enable you to get online. Sometimes it’s free; sometimes there’s a charge.

The country’s main telecommunications company is Telecom New Zealand (www.telecom.co.nz), which has wireless hotspots around the country. If you have a wi-fi-enabled device, you can purchase a Telecom wireless prepaid card from participating hotspots. Alternatively, you can purchase a prepaid number from the login page and any wireless hotspot using your credit card. See the website for hotspot listings.

If you’ve brought your palmtop or notebook computer, you might consider buying a prepay USB modem (aka a ‘dongle’) with a local SIM card: both Telecom and Vodafone (www.vodarent.co.nz) sell these from around $100. If you want to get connected via a local internet service provider (ISP), there are plenty of options, though some companies limit their dial-up areas to major cities or particular regions. ISPs include the following:

»Clearnet ( 0508 888 800; www.clearnet.co.nz)

»Earthlight ( 03-479 0303; www.earthlight.co.nz)

»Freenet ( 0800 645 000; www.freenet.co.nz)

»Slingshot ( 0800 892 000; www.slingshot.co.nz)

Money

NZ’s currency is the NZ dollar, comprising 100 cents. There are 10c, 20c, 50c, $1 and $2 coins, and $5, $10, $20, $50 and $100 notes. Prices are often still marked in single cents and then rounded to the nearest 10c when you hand over your money.

ATMs & Eftpos

Branches of the country’s major banks, including the Bank of New Zealand, ANZ, Westpac and ASB, have 24-hour ATMs that accept cards from other banks and provide access to overseas accounts. You won’t find ATMs everywhere, but they’re widespread across both islands.

Many NZ businesses use electronic funds transfer at point of sale (Eftpos), a convenient service that allows you to use your bank card (credit or debit) to pay directly for services or purchases, and often withdraw cash as well. Eftpos is available practically everywhere, even in places where it’s a long way between banks. Just like an ATM, you need to know your personal identification number (PIN) to use it.

Credit Cards

Credit cards (Visa, MasterCard etc) are widely accepted for everything from a hostel bed to a bungy jump. Credit cards are pretty much essential if you want to hire a car. They can also be used for over-the-counter cash advances at banks and from ATMs, depending on the card, but be aware that such transactions incur charges. Charge cards such as Diners Club and Amex are not as widely accepted.

Debit Cards

Apart from losing them, the obvious danger with credit cards is maxing out your limit and going home to a steaming pile of debt. A safer option is a debit card, with which you can draw money directly from your home bank account using ATMs, banks or Eftpos machines. Any card connected to the international banking network (Cirrus, Maestro, Visa Plus and Eurocard) should work, provided you know your PIN. Fees for using your card at a foreign bank or ATM vary depending on your home bank; ask before you leave. Companies such as Travelex offer debit cards (Travelex calls them Cash Passport cards) with set withdrawal fees and a balance you can top-up from your personal bank account while on the road – nice one!

Moneychangers

Changing foreign currency or travellers cheques is usually no problem at banks throughout NZ or at licensed moneychangers such as Travelex in the major cities. Moneychangers can be found in all major tourist areas, cities and airports.

Taxes & Refunds

The Goods and Services Tax (GST) is a flat 15% tax on all domestic goods and services. Prices in this book include GST. There’s no GST refund available when you leave NZ.

Tipping

Tipping is completely optional in NZ – the total at the bottom of a restaurant bill is all you need to pay (note that sometimes there’s an additional service charge). That said, it’s totally acceptable to reward good service – between 5% and 10% of the bill is fine.

Travellers Cheques

Amex, Travelex and other international brands of travellers cheques are a bit old-fashioned these days, but they’re easily exchanged at banks and moneychangers. Present your passport for identification when cashing them; shop around for the best rates/lowest fees.

Public Holidays

NZ’s main public holidays:

»New Year 1 and 2 January

»Waitangi Day 6 February

»Easter Good Friday and Easter Monday; March/April

»Anzac Day 25 April

»Queen’s Birthday First Monday in June

»Labour Day Fourth Monday in October

»Christmas Day 25 December

»Boxing Day 26 December

In addition, each NZ province has its own anniversary-day holiday. The dates of these provincial holidays vary – when these dates fall on Friday to Sunday, they’re usually observed the following Monday; if they fall on Tuesday to Thursday, they’re held on the preceding Monday.

Provincial anniversary holidays:

»Southland 17 January

»Wellington 22 January

»Auckland 29 January

»Northland 29 January

»Nelson 1 February

»Otago 23 March

»Taranaki 31 March

»South Canterbury 25 September

»Hawke’s Bay 1 November

»Marlborough 1 November

»Chatham Islands 30 November

»Westland 1 December

»Canterbury 16 December

School Holidays

The Christmas holiday season, from mid-December to late January, is part of the summer school vacation. It’s the time you’ll most likely to find transport and accommodation booked out, and long, grumpy queues at tourist attractions. There are three shorter school-holiday periods during the year: from mid- to late April, early to mid-July, and mid-September to early October. For exact dates see the Ministry of Education (www.minedu.govt.nz) website.

Safe Travel

Although it’s no more dangerous than other developed countries, violent crime does happen in NZ, so it’s worth taking sensible precautions on the streets at night or if staying in remote areas. Gang culture permeates some parts of the country; give any black-jacketed, insignia-wearing groups a wide berth.

Theft from cars is a problem around NZ – travellers are viewed as easy marks. Avoid leaving valuables in vehicles, no matter where they’re parked; you’re tempting fate at tourist parking areas and trailhead car parks.

Don’t underestimate the dangers posed by NZ’s unpredictable, ever-changing climate, especially in high-altitude areas. Hypothermia is a real risk.

NZ has been spared the proliferation of venomous creatures found in neighbouring Australia (spiders, snakes, jellyfish...). Sharks patrol NZ waters, but rarely nibble on humans. Much greater ocean hazards are rips and undertows, which can quickly drag swimmers out to sea: heed local warnings.

Kiwi roads are often made hazardous by speeding locals, wide-cornering campervans and traffic-ignorant sheep. Set yourself a reasonable itinerary and keep your eyes on the road. Cyclists take care: motorists can’t always overtake easily on skinny roads.

In the annoyances category, NZ’s sandflies are a royal pain. Lather yourself with insect repellent in coastal areas.

Shopping

NZ isn’t one of those countries where it’s necessary to buy a T-shirt to help you remember your visit, but there are some unique locally crafted items you might consider.

Clothing

Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch boast fashion-conscious boutiques ablaze with the sartorial flair of NZ designers. Check out www.fashionz.co.nz for up-to-date information. Keep an eye out for labels such as Zambesi, Kate Sylvester, Karen Walker, Trelise Cooper, NOM D and Little Brother.

From the backs of NZ sheep come sheepskin products such as footwear (including the much-loved ugg boot) and beautiful woollen jumpers (jerseys or sweaters) made from hand-spun, hand-dyed wool. Other knitted knickknacks include hats, gloves and scarves.

Long woollen Swanndri jackets, shirts and pullovers are so ridiculously practical, they’re practically the national garment in country areas. Most common are the red-and-black or blue-and-black plaid ones; pick up ‘Swannies’ in outdoor-gear shops.

Maori Art

Maori whakairo rakau (woodcarving) features intricate forms such as leaping dolphins, as well as highly detailed traditional carvings. You’ll pay a premium for high-quality work; avoid the poor examples in Auckland souvenir shops.

Maori artisans have always made bone carvings in the shape of humans and animals, but nowadays they cater to the tourist industry. Bone fish-hook pendants, carved in traditional Maori and modernised styles, are most common, worn on a leather string around the neck.

Paua

Abalone shell, called paua in NZ, is carved into some beautiful ornaments and jewellery and is often used as an inlay in Maori carvings. Be aware that it’s illegal to take natural paua shells out of the country – only processed ornaments can be taken with you.

Pounamu

Maoris consider pounamu (greenstone, or jade or nephrite) to be a culturally invaluable raw material. It’s found predominantly on the west coast of the South Island – Maori called the island Te Wahi Pounamu (The Place of Greenstone) or Te Wai Pounamu (The Water of Greenstone).

One of the most popular Maori pounamu motifs is the hei tiki, the name of which literally means ‘hanging human form’. They are tiny, stylised Maori figures worn on a leather string or chain around the neck. They’ve got great mana (power), but they also serve as fertility symbols.

The best place to buy pounamu is Hokitika, which is strewn with jade workshops and gift shops. Rotorua also has its fair share of pounamu crafts.

Traditionally, pounamu is bought as a gift for another person, not for yourself. Ask a few questions to ensure you’re buying from a local operator who crafts local stone, not an offshore company selling imported (usually Chinese or European) jade.

Telephone

The major service provider is Telecom New Zealand (www.telecom.co.nz). Vodafone (www.vodafone.co.nz) is also a key player in the mobile (cell) phone market.

International Calls

Payphones allow international calls, but the cost and international dialling code for calls will vary depending on which provider you’re using. International calls from NZ are relatively inexpensive and subject to specials that reduce the rates even more, so it’s worth shopping around – consult the Yellow Pages for providers.

To make international calls from NZ, you need to dial the international access code ( 00), the country code and the area code (without the initial 0). So for a London number, you’d dial 00-44-20, then the number.

If dialling NZ from overseas, the country code is 64, followed by the appropriate area code minus the initial zero.

IMPORTANT NUMBERS

NZ country code

64

International access code from NZ

00

Emergency (ambulance, fire, police)

111

Directory assistance

018

International directory

0172

Local Calls

Local calls from private phones are free! Local calls from payphones cost $1 for the first 15 minutes, and 20c per minute thereafter, though coin-operated payphones are scarce – you’ll need a phonecard. Calls to mobile phones attract higher rates.

Long Distance Calls & Area Codes

NZ uses regional two-digit area codes for long-distance calls, which can be made from any payphone. If you’re making a local call (ie to someone else in the same town), you don’t need to dial the area code. But if you’re dialling within a region (even if it’s to a nearby town with the same area code), you do have to dial the area code.

Information & Toll-Free Calls

Numbers starting with 0900 are usually recorded information services, charging upwards of $1 per minute (more from mobiles); these numbers cannot be dialled from payphones.

Toll-free numbers in NZ have the prefix 0800 or 0508 and can be called free of charge from anywhere in the country, though they may not be accessible from certain areas or from mobile phones. Telephone numbers beginning with 0508, 0800 or 0900 cannot be dialled from outside NZ.

Mobile Phones

Local mobile phone numbers are preceded by the prefix 021, 025 or 027. Mobile phone coverage is good in cities and towns and most parts of the North Island, but can be patchy away from urban centres on the South Island.

If you want to bring your own phone and use a prepaid service with a local SIM card, Vodafone (www.vodafone.co.nz) is a practical option. Any Vodafone shop (found in most major towns) will set you up with a SIM card and phone number (about $40); top-ups can be purchased at newsagencies, post offices and petrol stations practically anywhere.

Alternatively, if you don’t bring your own phone from home, you can rent one from Vodafone Rental (www.vodarent.co.nz) priced from $5 per day (for which you’ll also need a local SIM card), with pick-up and drop-off outlets at NZ’s major airports. We’ve also had some positive feedback on Phone Hire New Zealand (www.phonehirenz.com), which hires out mobile phones, SIM cards, modems and GPS systems.

Phonecards

NZ has a wide range of phonecards available, which can be bought at hostels, newsagencies and post offices for a fixed dollar value (usually $5, $10, $20 and $50). These can be used with any public or private phone by dialling a toll-free access number and then the PIN number on the card. Shop around – rates vary from company to company.

Time

NZ is 12 hours ahead of GMT/UTC and two hours ahead of Australian Eastern Standard Time. The Chathams are 45 minutes ahead of NZ’s main islands.

In summer, NZ observes daylight-saving time, where clocks are wound forward by one hour on the last Sunday in September; clocks are wound back on the first Sunday of the following April.

Tourist Information

Local Tourist Offices

Almost every Kiwi city or town seems to have a visitor information centre. The bigger centres stand united within the outstanding i-SITE (www.newzealand.com/travel/ i-sites) network, affiliated with Tourism New Zealand (the official national tourism body). i-SITEs have trained staff, information on local activities and attractions, and free brochures and maps. Staff can also book activities, transport and accommodation.

Bear in mind that many information centres only promote accommodation and tour operators who are paying members of the local tourist association, and that sometimes staff aren’t supposed to recommend one activity or accommodation provider over another.

There’s also a network of Department of Conservation (DOC; www.doc. govt.nz) visitor centres to help you plan activities and make bookings. Visitor centres – in national parks, regional centres and major cities – usually also have displays on local lore, flora, fauna and biodiversity.

Tourist Offices Abroad

Tourism New Zealand (www.newzealand.com) has representatives in various countries around the world. A good place for pretrip research is the official website (emblazoned with the hugely successful 100% Pure New Zealand branding), which has information in several languages, including German and Japanese. Overseas offices:

»Australia ( 0415-123 362; L12, 61 York St, Sydney)

»UK & Europe ( 020-7930 1662; L7, New Zealand House, 80 Haymarket, London, UK)

»USA & Canada ( 310-395 7480; Suite 300, 501 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, USA)

Travellers with Disabilities

Kiwi accommodation generally caters fairly well for travellers with disabilities, with a significant number of hostels, hotels, motels and B&Bs equipped with wheelchair-accessible rooms. Many tourist attractions similarly provide wheelchair access, with wheelchairs often available.

Tour operators with accessible vehicles operate from most major centres. Key cities are also serviced by ‘kneeling’ buses (buses that hydraulically stoop down to kerb level to allow easy access); taxi companies offer wheelchair-accessible vans. Large car-hire firms (Avis, Hertz etc) provide cars with hand controls at no extra charge (advance notice required). Mobility parking permits are available from branches of CCS Disability Action ( 0800 227 200, 04-384 5677; www.ccsdisabilityaction.org.nz) in the main centres.

For good general information, see NZ’s disability information website Weka (www.weka.net.nz), which has categories including Transport and Travel.

Visas

Visa application forms are available from NZ diplomatic missions overseas, travel agents and Immigration New Zealand ( 0508 558 855, 09-914 4100; www.immigration.govt.nz). Immigration New Zealand has over a dozen offices overseas; consult the website.

Visitor’s Visa

Citizens of Australia don’t need a visa to visit NZ and can stay indefinitely (provided they have no criminal convictions). UK citizens don’t need a visa either and can stay in the country for up to six months.

Citizens of another 56 countries that have visa-waiver agreements with NZ don’t need a visa for stays of up to three months, provided they have an onward ticket and sufficient funds to support their stay: see the website for details. Nations in this group include Canada, France, Germany, Ireland, Japan, the Netherlands and the USA.

Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa before entering NZ. Visas come with three months’ standard validity and cost NZ$110 if processed in Australia or certain South Pacific countries (eg Samoa, Fiji), or around NZ$140 if processed elsewhere in the world.

Women Travellers

NZ is generally a very safe place for women travellers, although the usual sensible precautions apply: avoid walking alone late at night and never hitchhike alone. If you’re out on the town, always keep enough money aside for a taxi back to your accommodation. Lone women should also be wary of staying in basic pub accommodation unless it looks safe and well managed. Sexual harassment is not a widely reported problem in NZ, but of course it does happen.

See www.womentravel.co.nz for more information.

Top of chapter

Transport

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Disembarkation in New Zealand is generally a straightforward affair, with only the usual customs declarations to endure and the uncool scramble at the luggage carousel. Recent global instability has resulted in increased security in NZ airports, in both domestic and international terminals, and you may find customs procedures more time-consuming. One procedure has the Orwellian title Advance Passenger Screening, a system whereby documents that used to be checked after you touched down in NZ (passport, visa etc) are now checked before you board your flight − make sure all your documentation is in order so that your check-in is stress-free.

DEPARTURE TAX

An international departure tax of NZ$25 applies when leaving NZ at all airports except Auckland, Christchurch and Dunedin, payable by anyone aged 12 and over (NZ$10 for children aged two to 11, free for those under two years of age). The tax is not included in the price of airline tickets, but must be paid separately at the airport before you board your flight. Pay via credit card or cash. Departing Auckland, Christchurch and Dunedin, a NZ$12.50 Passenger Service Charge (PSC) applies, which is included in your ticket price.

Passport

There are no restrictions when it comes to foreign citizens entering NZ. If you have a current passport and visa (or don’t require one), you should be fine.

Air

There’s a number of competing airlines servicing NZ and a wide variety of fares to choose from if you’re flying in from Asia, Europe or North America, though ultimately you’ll still pay a lot for a flight unless you jet in from Australia. NZ’s inordinate popularity and abundance of year-round activities mean that almost any time of year airports can be swarming with inbound tourists − if you want to fly at a particularly popular time of year (eg over the Christmas period), book well in advance.

The high season for flights into NZ is during summer (December to February), with slightly less of a premium on fares over the shoulder months (October/November and March/April). The low season generally tallies with the winter months (June to August), though this is still a busy time for airlines ferrying ski bunnies and powder hounds.

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

Airports

A number of NZ airports handle international flights, with Auckland receiving the most traffic. You can fly internationally from:

»Auckland International Airport (AKL; 09-275 0789, 0800 247 767; www.aucklandairport.co.nz; Ray Emery Dr)

»Christchurch Airport (CHC; 03-358 5029; www.christchurchairport.co.nz; Memorial Ave)

»Dunedin Airport (DUD; 03-486 2879; www.dnairport.co.nz; Miller Rd)

»Hamilton International Airport (HIA; 07-848 9027; www.hamiltonairport.co.nz; Airport Rd)

»Palmerston North International Airport (PMR; 06-351 4415; www.pnairport.co.nz; Airport Dr)

»Queenstown Airport (ZQN; 03-450 9031; www.queenstownairport.co.nz; Sir Henry Wigley Dr)

»Rotorua International Airport ( 07-345 8800; www.rotorua-airport.co.nz)

»Wellington Airport (WLG; 04-385 5100; www.wellington-airport.co.nz; Stewart Duff Dr)

Getting Around

Air

Those who have limited time to get between NZ’s attractions can make the most of a widespread network of intra- and interisland flights.

Airlines in New Zealand

The country’s major domestic carrier, Air New Zealand, has an aerial network covering most of the country. Australia-based Jetstar also flies between the main cities. Beyond this, several small-scale regional operators provide essential transport services to outlying islands such as Great Barrier Island in the Hauraki Gulf, Stewart Island and the Chathams. Operators include the following:

»Air Chathams ( 03-305 0209; www.airchathams.co.nz)

»Air Fiordland ( 0800 107 505, 03-249 6720; www.airfiordland.com)

»Air New Zealand (NZ; 09-357 3000, 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz)

»Air West Coast ( 03-738 0524, 0800 247 937; www.airwestcoast.co.nz)

»Air2there.com ( 04-904 5130, 0800 777 000; www.air2there.com)

»Fly My Sky ( 09-256 7025; www.flymysky.co.nz)

»Golden Bay Air ( 03-525 8725, 0800 588 885; www.goldenbayair.co.nz)

»Great Barrier Airlines ( 09-275 9120, 0800 900 600; www.greatbarrierairlines.co.nz)

»Jetstar (JQ; 0800 800 995; www.jetstar.com)

»Salt Air ( 09-402 8338, 0800 472 582; www.saltair.co.nz)

»Soundsair ( 0800 505 005, 03-520 3080; www.soundsair.co.nz)

»Stewart Island Flights ( 03-218 9129; www.stewartislandflights.com)

»Sunair ( 07-575 7799, 0800 786 247; www.sunair.co.nz)

Air Passes

With discounting being the norm these days, and a number of budget airlines now serving the trans-Tasman route as well as the Pacific Islands, the value of air passes isn’t as red-hot as in the past.

From Los Angeles return, Air New Zealand (NZ; 09-357 3000, 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) offers the Explore New Zealand Airpass, which includes a stop in either Wellington, Queenstown or Christchurch plus three other domestic NZ destinations. Prices at the time of research started at around US$1150.

Star Alliance (www.staralliance.com) offers the coupon-based South Pacific Airpass, valid for selected journeys within NZ, and between NZ, Australia and several Pacific Islands, including Fiji, New Caledonia, Tonga, the Cook Islands and Samoa. Passes are available to nonresidents of these countries, must be issued outside NZ in conjunction with Star Alliance international tickets, and are valid for three months. A typical Sydney–Christchurch–Wellington–Auckland–Nadi pass cost NZ$1050 at the time of research.

Bicycle

Touring cyclists proliferate in NZ, particularly over summer. NZ is clean, green and relatively uncrowded, and has lots of cheap accommodation (including camping) and abundant fresh water. The roads are generally in good nick, and the climate is generally not too hot or cold. Road traffic is the biggest danger: trucks overtaking too close to cyclists are a particular threat. Bikes and cycling gear (to rent or buy) are readily available in the main centres, as are bicycle repair shops.

By law all cyclists must wear an approved safety helmet (or risk a fine); it’s also vital to have good reflective safety clothing. Cyclists who use public transport will find that major bus lines and trains only take bicycles on a ‘space available’ basis and charge up to $10. Some of the smaller shuttle bus companies, on the other hand, make sure they have storage space for bikes, which they carry for a surcharge.

If importing your own bike or transporting it by plane within NZ, check with the relevant airline for costs and the degree of dismantling and packing required.

See www.nzta.govt.nz/traffic/ways/bike for more bike safety and legal tips.

Hire

Rates offered by most outfits for renting road or mountain bikes range from $10 to $20 per hour and $30 to $50 per day. Longer-term rentals are often available by negotiation.

Nga Haerenga, New Zealand Cycle Trail

The Nga Haerenga, New Zealand Cycle Trail (www.nzcycletrail.com) is a major nationwide project that has been in motion since 2009, expanding and improving NZ’ s extant network of bike trails. Funded to the tune of around NZ$46 million, the project currently has 18 ‘Great Rides’ under construction across both islands, most of which are already open to cyclists in some capacity. See the website for info and updates.

Boat

NZ may be an island nation but there’s virtually no long-distance water transport around the country. Obvious exceptions include the boat services between Auckland and various islands in the Hauraki Gulf, the interisland ferries that chug across Cook Strait between Wellington and Picton, and the passenger ferry that negotiates Foveaux Strait between Bluff and the town of Oban on Stewart Island.

Bus

Bus travel in NZ is relatively easy and well organised, with services transporting you to the far reaches of both islands (including the start/end of various walking tracks), but it can be expensive, tedious and time-consuming.

NZ’s dominant bus company is InterCity ( 09-583 5780; www.intercity.co.nz), which also has an extra-comfort travel and sightseeing arm called Newmans Coach Lines ( 09-583 5780; www.newmanscoach.co.nz). InterCity can drive you to just about anywhere on the North and South Islands. Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) is the main competition, a budget operator with fares as low as $1 (!).

Seat Classes

There are no allocated economy or luxury classes on NZ buses; smoking is a no-no.

Reservations

Over summer, school holidays and public holidays, book well in advance on popular routes. At other times a day or two ahead is usually fine. The best prices are generally available online, booked a few weeks in advance.

Bus Passes

If you’re covering a lot of ground, both InterCity ( 09-583 5780, 0800 222 146; www.intercity.co.nz) and Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) offer bus passes that can be cheaper than paying as you go, but they do of course lock you into using their respective networks. All the following passes are valid for 12 months.

Nationwide Passes

»Flexipass A hop-on/hop-off InterCity pass, allowing travel to pretty much anywhere in NZ, in any direction. The pass is purchased in blocks of travel time: minimum 15 hours ($117), maximum 60 hours ($449). The average cost of each block becomes cheaper the more hours you buy. You can top up the pass if you need more time.

»Flexitrips An InterCity bus-pass system whereby you purchase a specific number of bus trips (eg Auckland to Tauranga would count as one trip) in blocks of five, with or without the north-south ferry trip included. Five/15/30 trips including the ferry cost $210/383/550 (subtract $54 if you don’t need the ferry).

»Aotearoa Adventurer, Kiwi Explorer, Kia Ora New Zealand and Tiki Tour New Zealand Hop-on/hop-off, fixed-itinerary nationwide passes offered by InterCity. These passes link up tourist hot spots and range in price from $645 to $1219. See www.travelpass.co.nz for details.

»Naked Passport (www.nakedpassport.com) A Naked Bus pass that allows you to buy trips in blocks of five, which you can add to any time, and book each trip as needed. Five/15/30 trips cost $157/330/497. An unlimited pass costs $597 – great value if you’re travelling NZ for many moons.

North Island Passes

InterCity also offers 13 hop-on/hop-off, fixed-itinerary North Island bus passes, ranging from short $43 runs between Rotorua and Taupo, to $249 trips from Auckland to Wellington via the big sights in between. See www.travelpass.co.nz for details.

South Island Passes

On the South Island, InterCity offers 11 hop-on/hop-off, fixed-itinerary passes, ranging from $43 trips between Christchurch and Kaikoura, to $583 loops around the whole island. See www.travel pass.co.nz for details.

Shuttle Buses

Other than InterCity and Naked Bus, regional shuttle-bus operators include the following:

»Abel Tasman Coachlines ( 03-548 0285; www.abeltasmantravel.co.nz)

»Alpine Scenic Tours ( 07-378 7412; www.alpinescenictours.co.nz)

»Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz)

»Cook Connection ( 0800 266 526; www.cookconnect.co.nz)

»Dalroy Express ( 06-759-0197, 0508 465 622; w ww.dalroytours.co.nz)

»East West Coaches ( 03-789 6251, 0800 142 622; eastwestcoaches@xtra.co.nz)

»Hanmer Connection ( 0800 242 663; www.atsnz.com)

»Go Kiwi Shuttles ( 07-866 0336; www.go-kiwi.co.nz)

»Knightrider ( 03-342 8055, 0800 317 057; www.knightrider.co.nz)

»Southern Link Travel ( 0508 458 835; www.southernlinkkbus.co.nz)

»Topline Tours ( 03-249 8059; www.toplinetours.co.nz)

»Tracknet ( 03-249 7777, 0800 483 262; www.tracknet.net)

»Waitomo Wanderer ( 03-477 9083, 0800 000 4321; www.travelheadfirst.com)

»West Coast Shuttle ( 03-768 0028; www.westcoastshuttle.co.nz)

Car & Motorcycle

The best way to explore NZ in depth is to have your own wheels. It’s easy to hire cars and campervans at good rates; alternatively, consider buying your own vehicle.

Automobile Association (AA)

NZ’s Automobile Association (AA; 0800 500 444; www.aa.co.nz/travel) provides emergency breakdown services, maps and accommodation guides (from holiday parks to motels and B&Bs).

Members of overseas automobile associations should bring their membership cards − many of these bodies have reciprocal agreements with the AA.

Driving Licences

International visitors to NZ can use their home country’s driving licence − if your licence isn’t in English, it’s a good idea to carry a certified translation with you. Alternatively, use an International Driving Permit (IDP), which will usually be issued on the spot (valid for 12 months) by your home country’s automobile association.

Fuel

Fuel (petrol, aka gasoline) is available from service stations across NZ. LPG (gas) is not always stocked by rural suppliers; if you’re on gas, it’s safer to have dual-fuel capability. Aside from remote locations such as Milford Sound and Mt Cook, petrol prices don’t vary much from place to place (very democratic): per-litre costs at the time of research were around $2.10.

Hire

Campervan

Check your rear-view mirror on any far-flung NZ road and you’ll probably see a shiny white campervan (aka mobile home, motor home, RV) packed with liberated travellers, mountain bikes and portable barbecues cruising along behind you.

Most towns of any size have a campground or holiday park with powered sites for around $35 per night. There are also 250-plus vehicle-accessible Department of Conservation (DOC; www.doc.govt.nz) campsites around NZ, ranging in price from free to $19 per adult: check the website.

You can hire campervans from dozens of companies, prices varying with season, vehicle size and length of rental.

A small van for two people typically has a minikitchen and foldout dining table, the latter transforming into a double bed when dinner is done and dusted. Larger ‘superior’ two-berth vans include shower and toilet. Four- to six-berth campervans are the size of trucks (and similarly sluggish) and, besides the extra space, usually contain a toilet and shower.

Over summer, rates offered by the main rental firms for two-/four-/six-berth vans start at around $160/260/300 per day, dropping to as low as $45/60/90 in winter for month-long rentals.

Major operators include the following:

»Apollo ( 09-889 2976, 0800 113 131; www.apollocamper.co.nz)

»Britz ( 09-255 3910, 0800 831 900; www.britz.co.nz)

»Kea ( 09-448 8800, 0800 520 052; www.keacampers.com)

»Maui ( 09-255 3910, 0800 651 080; www.maui.co.nz)

»Pacific Horizon ( 09-257 4331; www.pacifichorizon.co.nz)

»United Campervans ( 09-275 9919; www.unitedcampervans.co.nz)

Backpacker Van Rentals

Budget players in the campervan industry offer slick deals and funky, well-kitted-out vehicles for backpackers. Rates are competitive (from $35 per day May to September; from $80 per day December to February). Operators include the following:

»Backpacker Campervans ( 0800 422 267; www.backpackercampervans.co.nz)

»Backpacker Sleeper Vans ( 03-359 4731, 0800 325 939; www.sleepervans.co.nz)

»Escape Rentals ( 0800 216 171; www.escaperentals.co.nz)

»Hippie Camper ( 0800 113 131; www.hippiecamper.co.nz)

»Jucy ( 0800 399 736; www.jucy.co.nz)

»Spaceships ( 09-526 2130, 0800 772 237; www.spaceshipsrentals.co.nz)

»Wicked Campers ( 09-634 2994, 0800 246 870; www.wicked-campers.co.nz)

Freedom Camping

New Zealand is so photogenic, it ' s tempting to just pull off the road at a gorgeous viewpoint and camp the night. But never just assume it ' s OK to camp somewhere: always ask a local or check with the local i-SITE, DOC office or commercial campground. If you are freedom camping, treat the area with respect – if your van doesn' t have toilet facilities, find a public loo. See www.camping.org.nz for more freedom camping tips, and www.tourism.govt.nz for info on where to find dump stations.

Car

Competition between car-rental companies in NZ is torrid, particularly in the big cities and Picton. Remember that if you want to travel far, you need unlimited kilometres. Some (but not all) companies require drivers to be at least 21 years old − ask around.

Most car-hire firms suggest (or insist) that you don’t take their vehicles between islands on the Cook Strait ferries. Instead, you leave your car at either Wellington or Picton terminal and pick up another car once you’ve crossed the strait. This saves you paying to transport a vehicle on the ferries, and is a pain-free exercise.

International Rental Companies

The big multinational companies have offices in most major cities, towns and airports. Firms sometimes offer one-way rentals (eg collect a car in Auckland, leave it in Wellington), but there are often restrictions and fees. On the other hand, an operator in Christchurch may need to get a vehicle back to Auckland and will offer an amazing one-way deal (sometimes free!).

The major companies offer a choice of either unlimited kilometres, or 100km (or so) per day free, plus so many cents per subsequent kilometre. Daily rates in main cities typically start at around $40 per day for a compact, late-model, Japanese car, and around $75 for medium-sized cars (including GST, unlimited kilometres and insurance).

»Avis ( 09-526-2847, 0800 655 111; www.avis.co.nz)

»Budget ( 09-529 7784, 0800 283 438; www.budget.co.nz)

»Europcar ( 03-357 0920, 0800 800 115; www.europcar.co.nz)

»Hertz ( 03-520 3044, 0800 654 321; www.hertz.co.nz)

»Thrifty ( 03-359 2720, 0800 737 070; www.thrifty.co.nz)

Local Rental Companies

Local rental firms dapple the Yellow Pages. These are almost always cheaper than the big boys − sometimes half the price − but the cheap rates may come with serious restrictions: vehicles are often older, and with less formality sometimes comes a less protective legal structure for renters.

Rentals from local firms start at around $30 per day for the smallest option. It’s obviously cheaper if you rent for a week or more, and there are often low-season and weekend discounts.

Affordable, independent operators with national networks include the following:

»a2b Car Rentals ( 0800 666 703; www.a2b-carrentals.co.nz)

»Ace Rental Cars ( 09-303 3112, 0800 502 277; www.acerentalcars.co.nz)

»Apex Rentals ( 03-379 6897, 0800 939 597; www.apexrentals.co.nz)

»Ezy Rentals ( 09-374 4360, 0800 399 736; www.ezy.co.nz)

»Go Rentals ( 09-525 7321, 0800 467 368; www.gorentals.co.nz)

»Omega Rental Cars ( 09-377 5573, 0800 525 210; www.omegarentalcars.com)

»Pegasus Rental Cars ( 03-548 2852, 0800 803 580; www.rentalcars.co.nz)

Motorcycle

Born to be wild? NZ has great terrain for motorcycle touring, despite the fickle weather in some regions. Most of the country’s motorcycle-hire shops are in Auckland and Christchurch, where you can hire anything from a little 50cc moped (aka nifty-fifty) to a throbbing 750cc touring motorcycle and beyond. Recommended operators (who also run guided tours) with rates from $80 to $345 per day:

»New Zealand Motorcycle Rentals & Tours ( 09-486 2472; www.nzbike.com)

»Te Waipounamu Motorcycle Tours ( 03-377 3211; www.motorcycle - hire.co.nz)

Insurance

Rather than risk paying out wads of cash if you have an accident, you can take out your own comprehensive insurance policy, or (the usual option) pay an additional fee per day to the rental company to reduce your excess. This brings the amount you must pay in the event of an accident down from around $1500 or $2000 to around $200 or $300. Smaller operators offering cheap rates often have a compulsory insurance excess, taken as a credit-card bond, of around $900.

Most insurance agreements won’t cover the cost of damage to glass (including the windscreen) or tyres, and insurance coverage is often invalidated on beaches and certain rough (4WD) unsealed roads − read the fine print.

Road Hazards

Kiwi traffic is usually pretty light, but it’s easy to get stuck behind a slow-moving truck or campervan − pack plenty of patience. There are also lots of slow wiggly roads, one-way bridges and plenty of gravel roads, all of which require a more cautious driving approach. And watch out for sheep!

Road Rules

Kiwis drive on the left-hand side of the road; cars are right-hand drive. Give way to the right, including when you're turning left and an oncoming vehicle is turning right into the same street (this particular rule is rumoured to be changing at some stage).

At single-lane bridges (of which there are a surprisingly large number), a smaller red arrow pointing in your direction of travel means that you give way.

Speed limits on the open road are generally 100km/h; in built-up areas the limit is usually 50km/h. Speed cameras and radars are used extensively.

All vehicle occupants must wear a seatbelt or risk a fine.Small children must be belted into approved safety seats.

Always carry your licence when driving. Drink-driving is a serious offence and remains a significant problem in NZ, despite widespread campaigns and severe penalties. The legal blood alcohol limit is 0.08% for drivers over 20, and 0% (zero!) for those under 20.

Local Transport

Bus, Train & Tram

NZ’s larger cities have extensive bus services but, with a few honourable exceptions, they are mainly daytime, weekday operations; weekend services can be infrequent or nonexistent. Negotiating inner-city Auckland is made easier by the Link and free City Circuit buses. Hamilton also has a free city-centre loop bus; Christchurch has a free city shuttle service and the historic tramway (closed post-earthquake at the time of research). Most main cities have late-night buses on boozy Friday and Saturday nights.

The only city with a decent train service is Wellington, which has five suburban routes.

Taxi

The main cities have plenty of taxis and even small towns may have a local service.

Train

NZ train travel is about the journey, not about getting anywhere in a hurry. Tranz Scenic ( 04-495 0775, 0800 872 467; www.tranzscenic.co.nz) operates four routes:

»Overlander Between Auckland and Wellington.

»TranzCoastal Between Christchurch and Picton.

»TranzAlpine Over the Southern Alps between Christchurch and Greymouth.

»Capital Connection Weekday commuter service between Palmerston North and Wellington.

Reservations can be made through Tranz Scenic directly, or at most train stations (notably not at Palmerston North or Hamilton), travel agents and visitor information centres. Discounts on the TranzCoastal and TranzAlpine apply for children and seniors (30% off) and backpacker card-holders (20% off).

Train Passes

Tranz Scenic’s Scenic Rai l Pass (www.tranzscenic.co.nz) allows unlimited travel on all of its rail services, including passage on the Wellington– Picton Interislander ferry. A two-week pass costs $528/402 per adult/child. There’s also a seven-day TranzAlpine and Coastal Pacific pass for $307/215.

Top of chapter

Behind the Scenes

Our Readers

Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:

Mark Gibson, Julian Porter

Author Thanks

CHARLES RAWLINGS-WAY

Thanks to the many generous, knowledgeable and quietly self-assured Kiwis I met on the road, especially the i-SITE staff in Hamilton, Waitomo and New Plymouth. Thanks to Errol Hunt for the gig, and the ever-impressive Lonely Planet production staff (including the Lords of SPP). Humongous gratitude to my tireless, witty and professional co-authors: Sarah, Brett, Peter and Lee. Thanks also to Warren for Wellington, and to Meg, Ione and Remy for holding the fort while I was away.

This Book

This 2nd edition of Lonely Planet’s Discover New Zealand guidebook was coordinated by Charles Rawlings-Way, and was researched on the ground by Charles, Brett Atkinson, Sarah Bennett, Peter Dragicevich and Lee Slater. We would also like to thank the following people for their contributions to this guide: Professor James Belich (History), John Huria (Maori culture) and Vaughan Yarwood (Environment). This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and was produced by the following:

Commissioning Editor Errol Hunt

Coordinating Editor Kate Whitfield

Coordinating Cartographer Hunor Csutoros

Coordinating Layout Designer Lauren Egan

Managing Editors Barbara Delissen, Brigitte Ellemor

Managing Cartographers Mark Griffiths, Corey Hutchison

Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler

Assisting Editors Pete Cruttenden, Kate Evans, Samantha Forge, Catherine Naghten, Sam Trafford, Amanda Williamson

Assisting Cartographers Joelene Kowalski, Samantha Tyson, Chris Tsismetzis

Cover Research Naomi Parker

Internal Image Research Rebecca Skinner, Nicholas Colicchia

Thanks to Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, David Kemp, Valentina Kremenchutskaya, Anna Lorincz, Alison Lyall, Kate Mathews, Trent Paton, Alison Ridgway, Suzannah Shwer, Gerard Walker

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK

We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travell ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a free book.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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Acknowledgments

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Jane Campion image: Sean Gallup/Getty Images ©.

Cover photographs: Front: Milford Sound and Mitre Peak, Fiordland National Park, Travel Pix Collection/AWL ©.

Ebook thanks to Shahara Ahmed, Anita Banh, Mark Germanchis, Liz Heynes, Craig Kilburn, Chris Lee Ack, Corine Liang, Ross Macaw

Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers

CHARLES RAWLINGS-WAY

Coordinating author, Rotorua & the Centre, Best of the Rest English by birth, Australian by chance, All Blacks fan by choice: Charles considers himself a worldly lad, but his early understanding of Aotearoa was less than comprehensive (sheep, mountains, sheep on mountains…). He realised there was more to it when a wandering uncle returned with a faux-jade tiki in 1981. He wore it with pride until he saw the NZ cricket team's beige uniforms in 1982… But Wellington's bars, Mt Taranaki’s snowy summit and Raglan’s point breaks have helped him forgive: he's once again smitten with NZ's phantasmal landscapes, disarming locals, and determination to sculpt its own political and indigenous destiny.

BRETT ATKINSON

Christchurch & the Central South, Queenstown & the South, Best of the Rest On his third research trip to the ‘mainland’, Brett explored Maori rock art, stayed in a historic cottage in the Gibbston Valley, and negotiated a penny-farthing bicycle around Oamaru. Two weeks researching earthquake-damaged Christchurch left him even more impressed with the resilience and determination of the people of Canterbury. Brett has covered ten countries for Lonely Planet, and more than 40 countries as a freelance travel and food writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his latest writing and travel plans.

PETER DRAGICEVICH

Auckland, Best of the Rest After nearly a decade working for off-shore publishing companies, Peter’s life has come full circle, returning to West Auckland where he was raised. As Managing Editor of Auckland-based Express newspaper he spent much of the nineties writing about the local arts, club and bar scenes. This is the third edition of the New Zealand guide he’s worked on and, after dozens of Lonely Planet assignments, it remains his favourite gig.

SARAH BENNETT & LEE SLATER

Wellington & Lower North Island, Marlborough & Nelson Raised at the top of the South, Sarah migrated to Wellington at 16 and has lived there ever since, except for various travels and a stint in London working at Lonely Planet’s UK office. An arguably flawed guidebook writer due to eternal optimism and irrepressible patriotism (‘New Zealand…what’s not to like?’), she nevertheless strives to find fault, particularly in relation to baked goods and beer selection. Sarah is joined in this endless quest by her husband and co-writer, Lee. English by birth and now a naturalised New Zealander, Lee’s first career as an engineer has seen him travel extensively around Europe, the Middle East, North Africa and the Caucasus. Sarah and Lee are co-authors of Let’s Go Camping and The New Zealand Tramper’s Handbook. They are also freelance feature writers for newspapers and magazines, including the Dominion Post and Wilderness.

CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS

Professor James Belich wrote the History chapter. James is one of NZ’s pre-eminent historians and the award-winning author of The New Zealand Wars, Making Peoples and Paradise Reforged. He has also worked in TV – New Zealand Wars was screened in NZ in 1998.

John Huria (Ngai Tahu, Muaupoko) wrote the Maori Culture chapter. John has an editorial, research and writing background with a focus on Maori writing and culture. He was senior editor for Maori publishing company Huia and now runs an editorial and publishing services company, Ahi Text Solutions Ltd (www.ahitextsolutions.co.nz).

Vaughan Yarwood wrote the Environment chapter. Vaughan is an Auckland-based writer whose most recent book is The History Makers: Adventures in New Zealand Biography. Earlier work includes The Best of New Zealand, a Collection of Essays on NZ Life and Culture by Prominent Kiwis, which he edited, and the regional history Between Coasts: from Kaipara to Kawau. He has written widely for NZ and international publications and is the former associate editor of New Zealand Geographic, for which he continues to write.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983

2nd edition – Oct 2012

ISBN 978 1 74321 357 5

© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012

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