Lonely Planet Maui
Author: Lonely Planet
Date: 0101-01-01 00:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Travel
Description: Lonely Planet's local travel experts reveal all you need to know to plan the trip of a lifetime to Maui. Discover popular and off the beaten track experiences from digging into Maui specialty dishes at the revered Sam Sato's in Wailuku to snorkelling the abundant coral that line the edges of Honolua Bay, and hiking past stone temples and a burial ground in the Halawa Valley. Build a trip to remember with Lonely Planet's Maui travel guide: Our classic guidebook format provides you with the most comprehensive level of information for planning multi-week trips Updated with an all new structure an

Maui

CONTENTS

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Maui

Maui Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

Itineraries

When to Go

Get Prepared for Maui

Water Sports in Maui

Going Green in Maui

Surfing in Maui

The Lahaina Wildfire

The Road to Hana

The Food Scene

The Outdoors

THE GUIDE

LAHAINA & WEST MAUI

Lahaina

Olowalu & Ukumehame Beach Park

Kaʻanapali

Kapalua & Napili

ʻIAO VALLEY & CENTRAL MAUI

Wailuku

Kahului

KIHEI & SOUTH MAUI

Kihei

Wailea & Makena

NORTH SHORE & UPCOUNTRY

Pāʻia Town

Kula

HALEAKALĀ NATIONAL PARK

Summit District

Kīpahulu District

HANA & EAST MAUI

Hana

LANAʻI

Lanaʻi City

MOLOKAʻI

Kaunakakai

TOOLKIT

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travelers

Accessible Travel

Language

Nuts & Bolts

STORYBOOK

A History of Maui in 15 Places

Meet the People of Maui

The Lahaina Wildfire & Water Rights

Traveling with Aloha Spirit

The Maui Connection

This Book

MAUI

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Hawaiian Hula dancer | YinYang/Getty Images ©

My favorite thing about Maui is the people. Yes, the beaches, waterfalls and sunsets are spectacular, but it’s the warm alohas that I treasure most. The generous welcome I received from the Kihei Canoe Club during their visitor paddle program is something I won’t soon forget. Club members patiently showed us how to paddle traditional outrigger canoes as a team. They also shared details about Maui’s history and environment. Easygoing friendliness is the norm island-wide, but it’s all tied in with a love of the land. A special combination.

Why visit Maui now? In the wake of the devastating Lahaina Wildfire, the answer is not so simple. Locals are grieving, and those displaced by the fires are seeking permanent housing – which is in short supply when short-term rentals are filled with visitors. Others say that people need the influx of tourist dollars now more than ever. If you go, explore with responsibility, sensitivity and kindness. Learn local customs and traditions. And travel with that sense of aloha.

Amy C Balfour

@amycbalfour

Amy writes about travel and outdoor adventure across the US. She has contributed to more than 60 guidebooks for Lonely Planet.

My favorite experience was bouncing through groves of tropical fruit and stopping for samples on an ATV ride with the charismatic Chuck Boerner, owner of Ono Organic Farms in Kīpahulu.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places that, for them, define Maui

Vacclav/Shutterstock ©

Whether it’s watching the sunrise at Haleakalā Crater (pictured), tasting wine in ‘Ulupalakua, sipping lavender tea at Ali‘i Kula Lavender or stopping for stick doughnuts at Komoda Store & Bakery in Makawao, the slower pace is alive in Upcountry Maui.

Malia Yoshioka

@MaliaYoshioka

Malia is a food and travel writer and the author of ShoyuSugar (shoyusugar.com)

GeoStock/Getty Images ©

Molokaʻi and Lanaʻi (pictured) are the escapes from your Hawaiian tour. The former is the most Hawaiian, with many ties to traditional culture, and the least Hawaiian (tourism is barely felt in daily life). The latter is like being on a remote South Seas island – but only 20 minutes by air from Honolulu.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes

@ryanverberkmoes

Ryan has seen much of the world and written over 150 guidebooks.

Smith Collection/Gado/Getty Images ©

A day in Pāʻia is always time well spent. It can involve meandering down the streets, popping into stores and eating at a quaint restaurant. It can also involve bobbing in the water offshore, basking on the sand and enjoying a refreshing shave ice. The historic plantation vibe complements the experience.

Savannah Dagupion

@savannah.dagupion

Savannah is a Native Hawaiian journalist from Maui.

SCENIC ADVENTURES

Above the clouds, below the sea, across the slopes of a mighty volcano: when it comes to adrenaline-fuelled activities, Maui scores with its backdrops – all of them spectacular. Mountain bikers plunge past eucalyptus trees, zipliners whip over valleys, surfers barrel through waves and windsurfers skim across whitecaps. And we haven’t even mentioned the most iconic scenic adventures: watching the sunrise from atop Haleakalā; driving the Road to Hana; and paddling a kayak near humpback whales in Makena.

Wailua Falls, Road to Hana | arkanto/Shutterstock ©

Reserve Ahead

Visiting the public parks are popular. Book a reservation for sunrise at Haleakalā National Park, and for tickets to Wai‘anapanapa State Park and the ‘Iao Valley State Monument.

Peter Unger/Getty Images ©

Pack for Adventure

Bring a warm coat or several heat-trapping layers for the cold summit of Haleakalā. Pack rugged water sandals and sturdy sneakers or boots for muddy hiking trails.

Max Earey/Shutterstock ©

Enchanting Redwood Forests

To really escape the crowds, head to the misty cloud forests of Kula and the trails that await you there.

BEST SCENIC ADVENTURES

Marvel at the multicolored sunrise while shivering at the edge of a vast crater atop 1 Haleakalā National Park.

Cruise along a jagged lava-rock coast in the shadow of tropical slopes thick with waterfalls on the magnificent 2 Road to Hana.

Pause your kayak as a humpback whale breaches off 3 Makena Bay in winter, when thousands arrive to court, mate and calve.

Rappel down a series of cliffs and waterfalls into gorgeous pools at 4 Puohokamoa Falls, along the Road to Hana.

Admire the mysterious beauty of the West Maui Mountains while waiting to catch a wave at 5 Ukumehame Beach Park.

CULTURAL DISCOVERIES

Hawaiian culture is about much more than melodic place names and simple luau. The arts, both healing and traditional, are experiencing a revival, while ancient heiau (temples), native forests and coastal fishponds are being restored. Resorts, outdoor outfitters and philanthropic groups are intentionally spotlighting long-held customs and traditional activities, and visitors are increasingly encouraged to slow down and learn.

The Meaning of Lei

Fragrant and ephemeral, lei embody the beauty of nature and the embrace of ‘ohana (extended family and friends) and the community. They are freely given and freely shared.

EdytaSoriano/Getty Images ©

Ukelele Tunes

The ukulele is derived from the braguinha, a Portuguese stringed instrument introduced to the islands in 1879. Ukulele means ‘jumping flea’ in Hawaiian, referring to the swift and deft finger movements required to play it.

Oscar Martin/Getty Images ©

Pink Pond

The ancient fishpond of Kealia turned a bright, Pepto-Bismol pink in 2023 thanks to halobacteria, which thrived as the salt content of the water increased due to the ongoing drought.

BEST CULTURAL DISCOVERIES

Paddle an outrigger canoe – the vessel used by Polynesian settlers – and learn Native Hawaiian history on a guided canoe tour at 1 Polo Beach.

Stroll 2 Kepaniwai Park & Heritage Gardens to see the traditional structures of ethnic groups who worked the sugar plantations.

Enjoy the music and banter at the weekly 3 Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Concert Series.

Admire the collections at 4 Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey House, which includes important artifacts of Hawaiian history.

Hike past stone temples and a burial ground in the 5 Halawa Valley on Moloka‘i.

Wander 6 ʻUlupalakua, browsing the general store, soaking up paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) culture, and learning about Hawaiian monarchs.

IMMERSIVE NATURE

From the sands of Keawakapu Beach to the flanks of Haleakalā, Maui’s gorgeous scenery has always drawn admirers. There’s an awesome panorama in every direction. Just when you think you have a handle on the island’s scenery, something small catches you by surprise – from a pink-and-yellow hibiscus blossom to the soothing coo of a dove.

Kapalua Coastal Trail | Ned Mulligan/Shutterstock ©

Mighty Koa Trees

The most revered of the Native Hawaiian forest trees is the koa, found at higher elevations. Growing up to 100ft high, this rich hardwood is traditionally used to make canoes and surfboards.

Beachfront Camping

You can camp near the beach at Camp Olowalu and Pāpalaua Wayside Park in West Maui, and at Wai‘anapanapa State Park on the Road to Hana.

BEST NATURE EXPERIENCES

Scan for native birds from the coastal boardwalk at 1 Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge.

Stroll through lavender blooms from June through September on the slopes of Haleakalā, at 2 Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm.

Look for nesting shorebirds and soak up the fierce beauty of a lava coastline on a morning jaunt of the 3 Kapalua Coastal Trail.

Join the crowds for the sunset at 4 Keawakapu Beach in South Maui, where you might just hear applause.

Camp beside conifers and eucalyptus trees at 5 Hosmer Grove, an experimental forest on the slopes of the volcano in Haleakalā National Park.

ULTIMATE WATER SPORTS

You don’t have to be an experienced surfer, diver or kayaker to get out on the water in Maui. Heck, you can see a rainbow’s array of tropical fish just by kicking off from shore with $8 snorkel gear. Outdoor outfitters and rental shops line the main drags in all the major towns, and most resorts rent gear to the public from the beach.

Ocean Safety

Never turn your back on the ocean to watch the shore break – you can be hurled into the sand with serious force, leading to major injuries.

Monte Rego Images/Shutterstock ©

Green Sea Turtles

Honu (green sea turtles) abound in Maui’s waters and can often be seen feeding in shallow coves and bays. Adults can grow to more than 3ft.

EpicStockMedia/Shutterstock ©

Windsurfing

Thanks to consistent winds, Maui is a top destination for windsurfing. Take a lesson in Kahalui or head to Pā‘ia to see some competitions.

BEST WATER SPORTS

Snorkel the abundant coral and thriving reefs that line the edges of 1 Honolua Bay.

Dig your paddle into the sea and skim along the coast with the 2 Kihei Canoe Club, with whales and green sea turtles in view.

Join fellow wave riders at 3 Ukumehame Beach Park, where the Thousand Peaks break draws beginners and intermediate surfers.

Explore the 4 Cathedrals, a spectacular dive site off Lanaʻi, featuring arches and grottos amid a 100ft-long lava tube.

Swim, snorkel and paddleboard along 5 Kapalua Beach; you might have a few green sea turtles for company.

Watch the pros compete from the safety of the overlook at 6 Hoʻokipa Beach Park in Pā‘ia.

HISTORIC HAWAII

On Maui, natural formations and historic structures are portals to the past, from the ‘Iao Needle and a missionary-era home to a 20th-century sugarcane plantation. These places provide a link to different eras and events. Make time to chat with the experts and take guided tours, which provide great background and sometimes include personal memories.

Piʻilanihale Heiau & Kahanu Garden | Jim Ekstrand/Shutterstock ©

Historic Lahaina

Lahaina was home to numerous historic buildings and troves of evocative artifacts before the wildfire. The Lahaina Restoration Foundation plans to share historic images from its digital archives with the public.

Land Divisions

The Maui Nui Ahupuaʻa Project is a signage project that marks ancient land divisions. Early rulers divided Maui into 12 districts known as moku, further divided into wedge-shaped regions called ahupuaʻa.

BEST HISTORIC EXPERIENCES

Learn about the immigrants who worked on the sugarcane plantations on a tour of the 1 Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum.

Admire the collections at 2 Hale Hoʻikeʻike at the Bailey House, which features pre-contact Hawaiian artifacts.

Take a guided tour of 3 Piʻilanihale Heiau & Kahanu Garden, where you’ll learn the story of Chief Piʻilani and gaze upon a temple.

Explore the lush 4 ʻIao Valley State Monument, where Hawaiian chieftain Kamehameha I and his forces defeated the Maui army in the Battle of Kepaniwai in 1790.

Visit the quaint, one-roomed 5 St Joseph’s Church, built by America’s first saint, Father Damien, who devoted his life to helping the patients of Molokaʻi’s Hansen’s disease colony.

LOCAL SPECIALTIES

The culinary scene is vibrant and ever-evolving on Maui, where farmers markets, food trucks and white-linen dining rooms serve local food with pride. Fresh seafood, Upcountry vegetables and grass-fed beef are increasingly commonplace. And tried-and-true ‘local’ dishes? Their names may be unfamiliar – loco moco, kālua pig – but the flavors are rich and delicious, and the portions hearty.

Food Trucks

Food trucks serve some of the tastiest fare on Maui. They typically park near the beach or shopping centers. The food truck pod at South Maui Gardens is fantastic.

Niko Natsuki/Shutterstock ©

Potlucks & Invitations

Home entertainment for locals revolves around food, which is usually served potluck-style, with guests bringing dishes. If you’re invited to someone’s house, be punctual and bring a dish.

Jupiterimages/Getty Images ©

Sheldon Simeon

Maui’s own ‘Top Chef’ thoughtfully incorporates examples of local and ethnic food into his daily menus at Tin Roof and Tiffany’s Bar & Grill.

BEST LOCAL EXPERIENCES

Add your name to the waitlist, join the lunch queue and then enjoy Maui specialty dishes at 1 Sam Sato’s in Wailuku.

Stop by the nostalgic storefront at 2 Tasaka Guri Guri for the flavored sherbets sold by the Tasaka family for more than a century.

Make your way to 3 Manaʻe Goods & Grindz for crispy chicken katsu in barely there Pukoʻo on Molokaʻi.

Step up to the window at 4 Kinaʻole Grill for the coconut shrimp lunch plate, just steps from Kamaʻole Beach Park I.

Prepare to equivocate at 5 Sugar Beach Bake Shop between the different malasadas – fried, sugar-covered Portuguese doughnuts.

VOLUNTEER VACATIONS

Spending a few hours volunteering – removing invasive plants, cleaning up a reef, taking a dog to the beach or planting traditional crops – might turn out to be your most rewarding experience on Maui. Many projects include a bit of education about local history and the environment, so you’ll take away something from the experience, too.

Olowalu Petroglyphs | MIXA Co. Ltd./Getty Images ©

Malama Hawaii

Hawaii Tourism shares a list of organizations that offer half-day volunteer opportunities on Maui as part of its Mālama Hawaiʻi Program (gohawaii.com/malama).

Coral Clean-up

Not all volunteer programs are on land. You can snorkel or dive to underwater reefs on the first Sunday of the month through the Blueʻaina Reef Cleanup, with Trilogy Ocean Sports.

BEST VOLUNTEERING EXPERIENCES

Plant flora while learning about Native Hawaiian history and culture with Kipuka Olowalu at the 1 Olowalu Petroglyphs.

Sign up for the Beach Buddies Program with the 2 Maui Humane Society, which gives visitors a chance to take dogs for beach walks.

Camp inside the crater in 3 Haleakalā National Park with Friends of Haleakalā National Park while maintaining the cabins and removing invasive species. One-day projects are also available.

Take part in a beach clean-up with 4 Redline Rafting (redlinerafting.com) at various locations.

Maintain taro fields on Monday mornings with Native Hawaii Philanthropy (nativehawaiiphilanthropy.org) on the 5 Keanae Peninsula.

HIKING HEAVEN

Hiking is fantastic on Maui, where tropical jungles, a volcanic crater and historic lava-stone highways drop visitors into unfamiliar worlds. Most trails can be accessed by a short drive from town and many can be hiked – or at least partially explored – by day-trippers of all skill levels. Waterfalls, blowholes, ancient temples and eucalyptus trees await. You might even see a humpback whale breaching just off shore. Pack sturdy hiking shoes, sunscreen and a hat.

Waiheʻe Ridge Trail | Westend61/Getty Images ©

Trail Summaries

The Nā Ala Hele Trail and Access program oversees Maui’s hiking trails and provides basic route summaries and maps (dlnr.hawaii.gov/recreation/nah).

EpicStockMedia/Getty Images ©

A Rare Find

More than 30 miles of hiking trails crisscross the summit area of Haleakalā National Park and pass through an alpine desert – home to the rare silversword plant.

Juergen_Wallstabe/Shutterstock ©

Read the Signs

Trespassing on private or government land not intended for public use is illegal, no matter how many people you see doing it. Respect all ‘Kapu’ and ‘No Trespassing’ signs.

BEST HIKING EXPERIENCES

Climb through tropical foliage to sweeping views of waterfalls, mountains and coast on the 1 Waiheʻe Ridge Trail.

Descend into the lunar-like crater of Haleakalā on the 2 Keoneheʻeheʻe (Sliding Sands) Trail to see cinder cones and rare silverswords.

Embrace the forests and isolation on this 2-mile out-and-back hike along the 3 Waihou Spring Trail.

Enjoy a perfect day hike on the 4 Koloiki Ridge Trail, a 5-mile round-trip excursion on Lana‘i, with sweeping views of the Naio Gulch and the remote Maunalei Valley.

Follow the ancient Kings Highway in 5 Wai‘anapanapa State Park’s Piʻilani Trail, a coastal path that passes a blowhole, sea arch and stepping stones.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

ITINERARIES

Maui’s West Coast

Allow: 7 Days Distance: 72 miles

History buffs, hikers and outdoor adventures will enjoy this multiday excursion in West Maui. The trip starts with a gorgeous climb through tropical wilds and ends with a thrilling drive along a remote and rugged coastline. There’s snorkeling and oceanfront dining along the way, too.

Kaʻanapali Beach | Susanne Pommer/Shutterstock ©

1 WAIHEʻE RIDGE TRAIL 1 DAY

Kick off with an early-morning tropical climb on the Waiheʻe Ridge Trail to high-elevation views that take in mountains, waterfalls and the sea. This invigorating ridge trail goes deep into the West Maui Mountains. It can get muddy.

Detour: From Wailuku, drive past abundant greenery to the soaring beauty of the ʻIao Needle (p90), a historic sight for Native Hawaiians. 30 min

45-minute drive

Westend61/Getty Images ©

2 UKUMEHAME BEACH PARK 1 DAY

Take a surfing lesson at Uku-mehame Beach Park, and kayak and snorkel the bountiful Olowalu Beach. Have lunch at Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop. Check out the Olawalu Petroglyphs or spend half a day volunteering at Kipuka Olowalu. Camp near the sea at Camp Olowalu.

20-minute drive

Tamir Kalifa for The Washington Post via Getty Images ©

3 KAʻANAPALI 2 DAYS

Plunge into Maui with a day at Kaʻanapali Beach. Snorkel out to Puʻu Kekaʻa (Black Rock) to check out the island’s dazzling underwater scene, then dig into the family-friendly exhibits at the Hawaiian Wildlife Discovery Center. Soak up the sunset on a catamaran cruise with Hula Girl, or take an oceanfront seat at Maui Brewing Co.

10-minute drive

pclark2/Getty Images ©

4 KAPALUA 2 DAYS

Start at the Gazebo in Napili for chocolate nut pancakes and ocean views. Swimmers should head to Napili Beach, bodysurfers to DT Fleming Beach Park and snorkelers to Honolua Bay. For the next day, hike the Honolua Ridge Trail or zipline with Kapalua Ziplines. Catch the sunset at Merriman’s Kapalua.

10-minute drive

emson/Getty Images ©

5 KAHEKILI HIGHWAY 1 DAY

Hit the road on your last day with a white-knuckle drive around the northern tip of Maui on the Kahekili Highway. Check out the Nakalele Blowhole and the Ohai Viewpoint, pull over for banana bead at Julia’s Best Banana Bread, and pick up last-minute gifts at Karen Lei’s Galley and Turnbull Fine Art.

Pung/Shutterstock ©

Maui Brewing Co. | Brian Lauer/FLICKR/CC BY 2.0 DEED ©

ITINERARIES

The Road to Haleakalā National Park

Allow: 5 Days   Distance: 50 milies

Small towns provide warm alohas along this pleasant trip, which begins with the historic treasures of Wailuku and ends with a scenic bang in lofty Haleakalā National Park – you need a reservation to watch the sunrise.

Haleakalā National Park | MNStudio/Shutterstock ©

1 WAILUKU 1 DAY

Take a self-guided walking tour past the historic and architecturally significant buildings in downtown Wailuku, stopping at Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey House built in 1875, Wailuku Public Library and Kaʻahumanu Church. Dig into the signature dish at long-running favorite Sam Sato’s. Shop the local boutiques and admire the street art.

20-minute drive

John Elk/Getty Images ©

2 PĀʻIA 1 DAY

Make your way to Pāʻia, the trendiest town in the Upcountry. Enjoy smoothies for breakfast at Choice Health Bar, then wander shops like Biasa Rose Boutique. Watch the windsurfers from the overlook at Hoʻokipa Beach Park & Overlook. For dinner, try pizza at the Flatbread Company, or head to the Pāʻia Fish Market Restaurant.

15-minute drive

ventwins/Shutterstock ©

3 MAKAWAO 1 DAY

It’s paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys) meets Picasso in Makawao, a gallery-filled cowboy town. Taste a melt-in-your-mouth cream puff from Komoda Store & Bakery, then head to Makawao Public Library to admire this historic building. Hike or mountain bike the lush trails at Makawao Forest Reserve – and take a picnic lunch from Casanova’s.

10-minute drive

Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

4 KULA 1 DAY

For Upcountry’s sweetest green scene, visit Aliʻi Kula Lavender Farm in Kula and nibble lavender scones while soaking up coastal views from the farm. If traveling with kids (or fans of cheese), spend an hour with the goats and the flavor-rich chèvre at Surfing Goat Dairy, open for tours. For libations, tour the farm and distillery at Ocean Organic Vodka.

1-hr drive

MNStudio/Getty Images ©

5 HALEAKALĀ NATIONAL PARK 1 DAY

The next morning, pack a coat and a picnic lunch, and leave early to catch the sunrise atop the volcano in Haleakalā National Park. Follow with a hike into the otherworldly crater, check out the visitor center and explore the wonderful array of trees in Hosmer Grove.

Chao Photography/Getty Images ©

Hoʻokipa Beach Park | Max Earey/Shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

The East Coast’s Scenic Thrills

Allow: 6 Days   Distance: 70 miles

This magical drive along East Maui’s remote coast is lined with waterfalls and a tangle of jungle scenery. If you want to escape the resort scene while digging into local culture and exploring untamed nature, this is your trip. It ends in a beautiful mountain setting at Maui’s only winery.

Wailua Iki Falls, Road to Hana | arkanto/Shutterstock ©

1 ROAD TO HANA 1 DAY

Waterfalls, pools and thick forests line the Hana Hwy, dubbed the Road to Hana. Half-way to Hana, swing down to the Keʻanae Peninsula for windswept views of the rough lava coast. Marvel at Hawaii’s largest temple at Piʻilanihale Heiau & Kahanu Garden, and the black-lava coast at Waiʻanapanapa State Park.

4-hr drive (2 hr wihout stops)

Matt Munro/Lonely Planet ©

2 HANA 2 DAYS

The old Hawaiian community of Hana is well worth a visit. Enjoy lunch at Thai Food by Pranee, visit the Hasegawa General Store and the marvelous beaches – sunrise at Koki Beach is lovely. Try food trucks like Kilo’s Kitchen and shop at Hana Farms Market. Hike up Puʻu o Kahaula Hill for a view of the town and Hana Beach.

45-minute drive

Billy McDonald/Shutterstock ©

3 HALEAKALĀ NATIONAL PARK 1 DAY

Pull over for Wailua Falls as you continue east. The Kipahulu section of the national park is home to ʻOheʻo Gulch and its 24 pools, each backed by its own waterfall. Hike to the 200ft plunge of Makahiku Falls on the Pipiwai Trail, which navigates a photogenic bamboo forest along the way.

5-minute drive

VisualCommunications/Getty Images ©

4 KIPAHULU 1 DAY

In the jungled wilds of Kipahulu, visit the aviator Charles Lind-bergh’s grave, then take a tour of Ono Organic Farms to sample the luscious produce. Buy a coffee down the road at the fruit stand at Laulima Farm: the beans are grown on site. Return to Hana for drinks, fine dining and live music at posh but hospitable Hana-Maui Resort.

1-hr drive

narapornm/Getty Images ©

5 ʻULUPALAKUA RANCH 1 DAY

Follow the lonely Piʻilani Hwy for an occasionally hair-raising drive with memorable turns, which eventually straighten out in the cowboy region of Kaupo. Conclude with a taste of Maui Splash, a refreshing pineapple wine, at the tasting room at Maui Wine on the ʻUlupalakua Ranch. Spend the night in the Upcountry, home to several inviting B&Bs and inns.

Diane Cook and Len Jenshel/Getty Images ©

Maui Wine | iShootPhotosLLC/Getty Images ©

ITINERARIES

Native Hawaiian History

Allow: 6 Days   Distance: 60 miles

Commanding temples, lava-rock roads and hidden petroglyphs are a few of the historically and culturally rich sites found throughout the island. Getting into the water is also key to understanding indigenous culture, so this trip makes time for a historic fishpond and a paddle in an outrigger canoe. Always respect these sites and obey any instructional signage.

Olowalu | Dudarev Mikhail/Shutterstock ©

1 KAPALUA 2 DAYS

The Kapalua Coastal Trail passes two culturally significant sights: the Honokahua Burial Site and Makaluapuna Point. An estimated 2000 Hawaiians are laid to rest in the burial site, which dates to 610 CE. Makaluapana Point, or Dragon’s Tooth, is also sacred to Native Hawaiians. The cliff dive ceremony at Puʻu Kekaʻa (Black Rock) in Ka‘anapali honors the last chief of Maui.

45-minute drive

Andrew Satre/Shutterstock ©

2 OLOWALU 1/2 DAY

Olowalu was a place of sanctuary for Native Hawaiians. It was also the site of a tragic massacre in 1790, when more than 100 locals were killed by Westerners. Lunch at Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop and walk past the ancient Olowalu Petroglyphs here. Help sustain the cultural history by volunteering for half a day with Kipuka Olowalu.

30-minute driven

Brenda Smith DVM/Shutterstock ©

3 ‘IAO VALLEY STATE MONUMENT 1/2 DAY

Hundreds of years ago, ‘Iao Valley waters helped to create Maui’s largest irrigated agricultural system. In 1790 Kamehameha the Great invaded Maui, decimating the island warriors in a bloody battle in the valley. Look for petroglyphs, including a stick man at the base of a boulder, at the ‘Iao Valley State Monument.

20-minute drive

Peter Unger/Getty Images ©

4 KIHEI 2 DAYS

For a view of ancient Hawaiian ingenuity, pull over in North Kihei to wade into the 3-acre Koʻieʻie Fishpond, constructed more than 400 years ago. Then sign up for a paddling trip in an outrigger canoe, the vessel used by Polynesians to cross the Pacific thousands of years ago, with Maui Sailing Canoe in Wailea and Hawaiian Paddle Sports in Makena.

20-minute drive

Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

5 LA PÉROUSE BAY (KEONEʻOʻIO BAY) 1 DAY

The Hawaiian village of Keoneʻoʻio was located beside its namesake bay, and its remains – mainly houses and heiau (temple) platforms – are scattered among the lava patches along a sun-baked section of the ancient King’s Trail. A monument honors French explorer Jean Francois de Galaup, Count of La Pérouse, who arrived in 1786 and was the first Westerner to land on Maui.

Susanne Pommer/Shutterstock ©

‘Iao Valley State Monument | Carolyn Croyle/Shutterstock ©

WHEN TO GO

Maui is a year-round destination, but whale-watching season, which stretches from December though April, is a thrilling time to visit.

Any time is a good time to visit Maui, where the weather is warm and pleasant year-round. Rainfall is minimal, and there’s really no ‘bad’ season for vacationers.

Thousands of humpback whales migrate to the ʻAuʻau Channel to mate and give birth along the West and South Maui coasts between November and March, which makes the winter season a top choice for wildlife watchers.

Crowds are heavier in winter and summer thanks to school breaks around the Christmas, New Year’s and summer holidays. Lodging prices may drop slightly in the spring and fall shoulder seasons, although spring break and Easter may see a boost.

South Maui sees the most sunshine, and you may encounter a bit more rain annually in Kapalua, Hana and East Maui. Be aware that the summit area of Haleakalā National Park will be cooler than the coast.

Humpback whale, Maui | M Sweet/Getty Images ©

I LIVE HERE

THE FRUIT OF MAUI

Chuck Boerner is the owner of Ono Organic Farms, a tropical fruit farm in Kipahulu. @onoorganicfarms

‘The best time to visit fruit-wise? Anytime and every time. We have a lot of our fruit getting ripe in the winter, spring, summer and fall. We have set up an honor-system exotic-fruit stand on the main road. It is about 100yd south of the main entrance to Haleakalā National Park in Kipahulu. You never know if you have enough fruit until you have some rotting!’

DROUGHT CONDITIONS

Rainfall levels have declined in recent years across Hawaii, and Maui County is experiencing the worst drought conditions in the state. In 2023, 72% of the island was categorized as either abnormally dry or experiencing moderate to severe drought conditions, with Central Maui classified as the driest region.

MAUI’S TRADE WINDS

Variations in atmospheric pressure create trade winds near the equator that blow in from the northeast, bringing cool air. Aptly named, trade winds hastened the sea voyages of commercial ships in the 1400s. Windsurfers, be ready: they hit their peak in Maui from May though September.

Biggest Events on Maui

Sentry PGA Tournament of Champions The season opener for the PGA tour tees off at the Kapalua Plantation Golf Course. Early January

Ki Ho‘alu Slack Key Guitar Festival Slack-key guitar doesn’t get any better than this. The one-day event brings in all the big players from throughout the state. Held at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center in Kahului. Late June

Made in Maui County Festival Chat with local crafters and pick up unique, handmade souvenirs that support local businesses. Held at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center in Kahului. Early November

Maui Film Festival Movie-lovers gather in Kahului at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center for movie premieres under the stars and celebrity appearances. November (though the month can vary)

Fun Local Festivals

Celebration of the Arts The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua hosts traditional artisans from across the Hawaiian islands, with craft-making demonstrations, live entertainment and a focus on Native Hawaiian customs and beliefs. Late March/early April

Makawao Paniolo Parade A colorful downtown parade showcases the Upcountry’s paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) past. Held in downtown Makawao. Weekend closest to July 4

Hula O Nā Keiki Children take center stage at this hula-dance competition, which features some of the best keiki (child) dancers in Hawaii. It’s held at the Outrigger Kaʻanapali Beach Resort. Early to mid-November

Nā Mele O Maui Children’s choral groups sing Native Hawaiian music at this cultural event at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center in Kahului. Late November/early December

I LIVE HERE

WHALE WATCHING IN MAUI

Whale-watching season stretches from November through April, but your best months for seeing whales are January, February and March. Kihei and Lahaina have hosted whale festivals in the past, typically in February, but these have been discontinued, hopefully temporarily, in the wake of the pandemic and the Lahaina Wildfire.

Instead, check out the free ‘40-ton Humpback Whale Talk,’ held most Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays at 10am at the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary Headquarters in Kihei.

You can also take a joint sunset-and-whale-watching cruise with numerous tour companies during whale season, departing from Maʻalaea and Kaʻanapali.

KEEP ON THE SUNNY SIDE

Maui’s central mountains trap the trade winds, capturing moisture-laden clouds and bringing abundant rain to Hana and the windward side of Maui. These same mountains prevent clouds and rain from reaching the southwest of the island. So in places like Kihei and Makena, you’ll find dry, sunny conditions.

Weather Through the Year

JANUARY

Ave. daytime max: 81°F

Days of rainfall: 6

FEBRUARY

Ave. daytime max: 81°F

Days of rainfall: 6

MARCH

Ave. daytime max: 81°F

Days of rainfall: 6

APRIL

Ave. daytime max: 82°F

Days of rainfall: 4

MAY

Ave. daytime max: 84°F

Days of rainfall: 3

JUNE

Ave. daytime max: 86°F

Days of rainfall: 2

JULY

Ave. daytime max: 87°F

Days of rainfall: 3

AUGUST

Ave. daytime max: 87°F

Days of rainfall: 3

SEPTEMBER

Ave. daytime max: 87°F

Days of rainfall: 3

OCTOBER

Ave. daytime max: 86°F

Days of rainfall: 4

NOVEMBER

Ave. daytime max: 84°F

Days of rainfall: 5

DECEMBER

Ave. daytime max: 81°F

Days of rainfall: 6

GET PREPARED FOR MAUI

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain

Maui songstress, Anuhea Jenkins | Steve Jennings/WireImage via Getty Images ©

Clothes

Casual clothes Including shorts and T-shirts, casual clothes are fine just about everywhere.

Smart dress You may want to up your game if you plan to enjoy a nice dinner or hit the nightlife at the resorts.

Jacket If you’re heading to the summit of Haleakalā, bring a warm jacket. It’s chilly all day, but downright frigid before sunrise.

Bathing suit Bring one for the beach and the Road to Hana.

Broad-brimmed hat Remember to be kind to your skin and pack a hat for some shade.

Casual footwear Bring sandals with you; you can also buy the ever-popular flip-flops (‘rubbah slippahs’) after you arrive. Tennis shoes are also fine island-wide.

Hiking footwear Consider athletic water sandals, sturdy sneakers or light hiking boots, as trails are often slick with rain.

Manners

Pack patience and compassion, rather than pity, for those still recovering from the Lahaina Wildfire of August 2023.

Never show up empty-handed if you’re invited to a home, BBQ or party.

Always remove your shoes when entering someone’s home.

Always wave or throw a shaka (Hawaii hand gesture) if someone lets you cross the road or lets you pass while driving.

READ

Place Names of Hawaii (Mary Kawena Pukui; 1976) Sheds light on the background of many of Hawaii’s street names and towns.

To Steal a Kingdom (Michael Dougherty; 2000) Excellent book that takes a hard look at the legacy of Western colonialism.

Frolic Hawaii (Honolulu Magazine; 2014) Website that spotlights the Hawaiian Islands’ food scene and top local chefs.

Maui Now (Pacific Media Group; year unknown) Helpful, up-to-the-minute source for news and general information.

Words

‘aina land
ali‘i royalty
ali‘i nui high chief
aloha traditional greeting meaning love, welcome, goodbye
aloha ‘aina love of the land
brah Hawaiian pidgin; shortened form of ‘brother’

broke da mout delicious
grind to eat
grinds food
hale house
heiau ancient stone temple
hoʻokipa hospitality
ho‘okupu offering
hula Hawaiian dance
kahiko ancient
kahuna knowledgeable person in any field; such as a priest, healer or sorcerer
kama‘aina person born and raised in, or a longtime resident of, Hawaii; literally, ‘child of the land’

kane man
kapu taboo, part of strict ancient Hawaiian social and religious system
kapuna elders
keiki child/children
kupuna grandparent; elder
lei garland, usually of flowers, but also of leaves and shells
lomilomi traditional Hawaiian massage; known as ‘loving touch’

luau traditional Hawaiian feast
mahalo thank you
makai seaward
mana spiritual essence
mauka toward the mountains; inland
mele song, chant

‘ohana extended family and friends
oli chant
pau hana literally ‘stop work’; commonly means ‘happy hour’ at bars and restaurants
pupu snack or appetizer
tutu grandmother or grandfather; also term of respect for any member of that generation
wahine woman

WATCH

PictureLux / The Hollywood Archive/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Keeping It Relle (YouTube; 2019) Hawaiian recipes from blogger and The Great American Recipe contestant, Relle Lum.

The White Lotus (HBO; 2021; pictured) ) Privileged travelers bicker in Season 1 of this series, shot at the Four Seasons Resort, Wailea.

Just Go With It (Dennis Dugan; 2011) Scenes from this rom-com, featuring Jennifer Aniston, were filmed at the Grand Wailea.

Riding Giants (Stacy Peralta; 2004) Documentary about big-wave surfing, with Maui footage plus the Jaws surf break.

‘Āina Momona (TikTok; 2022) No-holds barred videos supporting Native Hawaiian causes. @ainamomona

LISTEN

The Bill Best Show (Manaʻo Radio; 2002) Tune into 91.7FM for Maui’s most eclectic DJ, with a mix of Hawaiian, polka, and everything else.

Slack Key Show – Napili (YouTube; 2010) Clips of performances by George Kahumoku Jr and others during the Slack Key Guitar Concert Series.

Civil Beat Podcasts (Honolulu Civil Beat; 2010) Podcast series covering current events and public affairs. Search for ‘Civil Beat Presents’ wherever you listen to your podcasts.

Anuhea (Anuhea Jenkins; 2009) Debut album of island tunes by a Maui songstress, with touches of reggae, pop and R&B.

TRIP PLANNER

WATER SPORTS IN MAUI

The Pacific Ocean is Maui’s ultimate playground. But take note: when renting ocean gear, you’ll pay premium prices at the beach shacks of the resorts. Stop by a surf or snorkel shop in town for the best rates. Buy coral-safe sunscreen before hitting the water.

Canoes, Maui | PIKAPPA/GETTY IMAGES ©

BODYSURFING & BODYBOARDING

If you prefer to catch your waves lying down, head to the beginner to intermediate shorebreaks at Kamaʻole Beach Park I and Charley Young Beach in Kihei, and at Ulua Beach and Wailea Beach in Wailea. Experienced bodysurfers can try DT Fleming Beach Park in Kapalua and Oneloa Beach in Makena.

KAYAKING

There’s a lot to see underwater off Maui’s coast, and most kayaking outfitters offer snorkel–kayak combos. The top spot is Makena Bay, an area rich with marine life. In the summer, another excellent destination is Honolua Bay, and Mokuleʻia Bay, where there are turtles and dolphins. Olowalu is another good spot, with kayaking near Olowalu Reef. Water conditions on Maui are usually clearest and calmest early in the morning.

For tours in South Maui, try Aloha Kayaks, Hawaiian Paddle Sports and South Pacific Kayaks & Outfitters. In Olowalu, check out Kayak Olowalu.

KITESURFING

Kitesurfing is a bit like strapping on a snowboard, grabbing a huge kite and riding with the wind across the water. It looks damn hard and certainly takes stamina, but if you already know how to ride a board, there’s a good chance you’ll master it quickly. It’s perhaps the most accessible of all the extreme sports.

There’s no better place to learn than on Maui’s Kite Beach, at Kanaha Beach Park. Check with locals to clarify the no-fly zones. You can also get the lowdown from the Maui Kitesurf Community (mauikitesurf.org).

RESPONSIBLE DIVING

Avoid touching marine organisms, and minimize your disturbance of marine animals; it’s illegal to approach endangered marine species.

Be conscious of your fins. The surge from heavy fin strokes can damage delicate organisms.

When treading water in shallow reef areas, take care not to kick up clouds of sand, as settling sand can easily smother delicate organisms.

Wear coral-safe sunscreen.

Don’t use reef anchors.

Maintain proper buoyancy control; major damage can be done by divers colliding with the reef.

Don’t feed marine animals.

Limit your time in underwater caves: your air bubbles may get caught and leave previously submerged organisms high and dry.

Don’t litter, and remove any trash you see.

Don’t collect coral or shells.

OUTRIGGER CANOEING

Polynesians were Hawaii’s first settlers, paddling outrigger canoes across 2000 miles of open ocean. Outrigger canoes have a stabilizing float, attached to the canoe by two bars. The first Europeans to arrive were awestruck at the skill Hawaiians displayed, timing launches and landings perfectly and paddling among the waves like dolphins

Today, canoe clubs keep the outrigger tradition alive. You can join a morning paddle with the Kihei Canoe Club ($40 donation). Hawaiian Sailing Canoe in Wailea and Hawaiian Paddle Sports in Makena offer guided outrigger-canoe tours, sharing cultural insights, too.

Kitesurfing | EpicStockMedia/Shutterstock ©

WHALE-WATCHING

With their tail slaps, head lunges and spy hops, humpback whales know how to impress a crowd.

Each winter, about 10,000 of these graceful leviathans – two-thirds of the entire North Pacific humpback whale population – come to the shallow coastal waters off the Hawaiian Islands to breed and give birth. And like other discerning visitors to Hawaii, these intelligent creatures favor Maui. The western coastline of the island is their chief birthing and nursing ground.

Luckily for whale-watchers, hump-backs are coast-huggers, preferring shallow waters to protect their newborn calves.

Much of Hawaii’s ocean waters are protected as part of the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary, whose Kihei head-quarters is abuzz with cool whale happenings. Along the coast, there’s great whale-watching at many places, including Papawai Point, and along beach walks in Kihei and Wailea.

To get within splashing distance of 40-ton leviathans acrobatically jumping out of the water, take a whale-watching cruise. No one does them better than Lahaina’s Pacific Whale Foundation, a conservation group that takes pride in its green, naturalist-led trips.

Maui’s peak whale-watching season is from January through March, although whales are usually around for a month or so on either side of those dates.

WINDSURFING

This sport reaches its peak on Maui. Hoʻokipa Beach Park & Overlook, near Pāʻia, hosts international windsurfing competitions. The wind and waves combine to make gravity seem arbitrary, but this beach is for experts only, as there’s razor-sharp coral and dangerous shorebreaks. Without risking life and limb, the place to launch is at Kanaha Beach Park in Kahului, but avoid busy weekends.

Maui is known for its consistent winds. Windsurfers can find action any month, but the best wind is from June to September, and the flattest spells from December to February. Most windsurfing shops are based in Kahului and handle rentals and lessons.

DIVING

Excellent visibility, warm temperatures, hundreds of rare fish – Maui is a diving hub. You can often see spinner dolphins, green sea turtles, manta rays and moray eels. With luck, you might even hear humpback whales singing underwater – you’ll never forget it.

Most dive operations on Maui offer a full range of dives, and refresher and advanced certification courses. Introductory dives for beginners get you beneath the surface in just a couple of hours. Experienced divers needn’t bring anything other than a swimsuit and certification card.

On Maui, the granddaddy of dives is crescent-shaped Molokini. The other prime destination is the untouched Cathedrals on the south side of Lanaʻi, which takes its name from the amazing underwater caverns, arches and connecting passages

Butterfly fish, Molokini Crater | Silent O/Shutterstock ©

SNORKELING

The waters around Maui are a kaleidoscope of coral, colorful fish and enormous sea turtles. If you can float, you can snorkel – it’s a cinch to learn. If you’re a newbie, ’fess up at the dive shop where you rent your snorkel gear, and they’ll show you everything you need to know. And it’s cheap: most snorkel sets rent for about $20 per day.

Snorkelers should get an early start. Not only does the first half of the morning offer the calmest water, but at some of the popular places, crowds begin to show by 10am. The hottest spots for snorkeling cruises are the largely submerged volcanic crater of Molokini, and Lanaʻi’s Hulopoʻe Beach.

Remember to wear reef-safe sunscreen before kicking off. Safe ingredients are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

SNORKEL SHOPS

Several snorkel stores provide good daily rates for snorkel sets. Snorkel Bob’s (snorkelbobs.com) has locations up and down the West and South Maui coasts and shares a snorkel map on its website. The Snorkel Store (thesnorkelstore.com) in Kaʻanapali emails a daily morning update of snorkel conditions.

SNORKELING SAFETY

The leading cause of death for tourists in Hawaii is drowning while snorkeling. Between 2013 and 2022, there were almost 800 drownings in Hawaii – and nearly 30% of those were snorkeling-related.

Increased tourism may play into it, as well as full-face snorkel masks, which may have a stressful effect on a snorkeler’s ability to breath. Victims tend to be men in their 50s and 60s, and 40% of them had heart conditions. The timing of your flight to Hawaii before going snorkeling and how far you flew may also be factors.

To stay safe, swim in pairs, watch the currents and know your abilities. A fair number of drownings have occurred at Kaʻanapali Beach around Puʻu Kekaʻa.

Kaʻanapali Beach | YinYang/Getty Images ©

MOLOKINI CRATER

This fascinating volcanic crater lies midway between the islands of Maui and Kahoʻolawe. Molokini is extremely popular with travelers, and sees 1000 visitors a day. Half of the crater rim has eroded, leaving a crescent-moon shape that rises 160ft above the ocean surface. But it’s what’s beneath the surface that draws crowds: steep walls, ledges, white-tipped reef sharks, manta rays, turtles and abundant fish.

The coral reef that extends outward from Molokini is awesome, though it’s lost some variety over the years. Most of the black coral, once prolific in Molokini’s deeper waters, made its way into Lahaina jewelry stores before the island was declared a marine conservation district in 1977.

When planning a Molokini excursion, know that the water is calmest and clearest in the morning, so don’t fall for discounted afternoon tours. For snorkelers, there’s not much to see when the water’s choppy. The primary departure point for Molokini trips is Maʻalaea Bay.

Best Beaches for Water Sports

HONOLUA BAY

Drop in for surfing in winter and snorkeling in summer. Look for reefs along its rocky edges.

KEAWAKAPU BEACH

Take a sunset swim at Keawakapu or snorkel the rocky outcrops at the north and south ends of the beach.

KAʻANAPALI BEACH

Snorkelers explore the underwater riches of Puʻu Keka while whale-watching; sunset cruises push off from shore.

WAILEA BEACH

Full menu of water activities available here, including bodysurfing, swimming, snorkeling and diving.

DT FLEMING BEACH PARK

The backdrop here is South Pacific scenery, with waves that are best for experienced surfers and bodysurfers.

KAPALUA BEACH

Enjoy scenic and low-key paddleboarding at Kapalua, followed by some great snorkeling. It’s excellent for swimming, too.

MALUʻAKA BEACH

The best place to snorkel with turtles, and there’s terrific coral about 100yd out from shore.

TRIP PLANNER

GOING GREEN IN MAUI

For Hawaiians, respect for the land is of utmost importance, and many Hawaiian traditions reflect this. Islanders of all backgrounds are activists, from Native Hawaiians volunteering to restore ancient fishponds to scientists fighting invasive plants. As a traveler, understanding and respecting this concept of aloha ‘aina (respect for the land) will help protect this delicate place – and enrich your experience.

Hoapili Trail | Peter Unger/Getty Images ©

What You Can Do

As you plan your trip, consider your impact on the island.

SACRED SITES

Obey all signage at sacred spots, from Makāluapuna Point and the Honokahua Burial Site to the lava-rock ruins at the start of the Hoapili Trail at La Pérouse Bay. Some signs may say that entry is discouraged, while others may say entry is prohibited. Err on the side of ‘looking’ from afar, which can be challenging when others are traipsing all over the site.

PRIVATE PROPERTY

Maui’s resorts can’t restrict access to the gorgeous beaches fronting their hotels. At the popular resort-front beaches in Wailea and across West Maui, look for the beach access signs.

Don’t follow trails across private property to check out a waterfall or pool. This can be tricky along the Road to Hana when you see clusters of cars parked seemingly at random spots. Respect the ‘Kapu – No Trespassing’ signs. All waterfalls and trails in this guide are on public land and trails.

NATIONAL, STATE & LOCAL PARKS

Obey signage and be aware of your surroundings. At Haleakalā National Park, be sure to park in paved lots. Parking outside designated areas can damage delicate and unique flora. Stay on established trails and avoid short-cuts.

While driving, keep an eye out near the summit for the slow-moving nene, the threatened state bird that’s a cousin of the Canadian goose.

GOING GREEN: BEER, CHOCOLATE & FARMERS MARKETS

Drink beer OK, so the beer at Maui Brewing Co. isn’t green, but the folks who brew it are committed. The brewery’s retail beers are sold in recyclable cans. Cans over glass? Yep, cans aren’t breakable, so they’re less of a threat on beaches. Cans are also lighter than glass, meaning you can move more products in one trip, saving fuel.

Today, nearly 100% of the company’s power at their 85,000 sq ft Kihei facility comes from self-sustainable and off-the-grid sources – much of that from the building’s 4000 solar panels and battery storage units.

Sweet sustainable chocolate The chocolate factory at Maui Kuʻia Estate Chocolate in Lahaina is 100% powered by the sun and operates independently of the local power plant.

The company also uses zero-waste farming practices at its cacao farm, and its 5g chocolates are wrapped in sustainable materials.

Taste local produce Every food product not grown or raised on Maui is shipped or flown here. Considering the distances and the fuel used, it makes the ‘locavore’ or ‘eat local’ movement particularly relevant.

One local stand-out is Moku Roots, a zero-waste vegan restaurant that moved from Lahaina to its organic farm in Kula in the Upcountry after the Lahaina Wildfire. They now offer Friday dinners and Sunday brunches at the farm. Shopping at farmers markets, like the Upcountry Farmers Market in Pukalani, is another way to eat local.

TRANSPORTATION

On a short trip to Maui, consider ditching the car. The Maui Bus loops past convenient stops in Kaʻanapali, Kihei, Kahului and Wailuku. In Kaʻanapali, a free resort shuttle swings past major hotels and beaches.

For longer stays, rent a smaller, less gas-guzzling vehicle. Not only will this be gentler on Maui’s environment, but the island’s narrow roads will be easier to negotiate.

TREADING LIGHTLY

Before arriving on Maui, clean your shoes and wipe your luggage so you don’t inadvertently bring seeds or insects from elsewhere. This especially applies if you’re arriving from the Big Island, where the Rapid Ohia Death fungal disease has killed millions of ohia trees.

SINGLE-USE PLASTICS

Maui County enacted a ban on single-use plastics in 2022. You won’t be given plastic utensils, cups or plates at restaurants, or for takeout meals.

Nene | Ron Dahlquist / Design Pics/Getty Images ©

RECYCLING

• Many beach parks on Maui have a bin for recycling aluminum cans, and you can often find eco-friendly businesses with bins for plastic and glass as well.

• Ask at your hotel how they recycle: should you keep your cans and bottles separate? If they’re not committed recyclers, asking helps raise their awareness, too.

• There is no curbside recycling pick-up on the island, but there are eight recycling drop-off centers across the island (mauicounty.gov).

• Also remember to refill your thermos or water bottle instead of buying single-use plastic water bottles.

TRIP PLANNER

SURFING IN MAUI

Maui lies smack in the path of all the major swells that race across the Pacific, creating legendary peaks for surfing. The north shore sees the biggest waves, which roll in from November to March, though some places, including famed Hoʻokipa Beach, have good wave action all year-round.

Beachwaver Maui Pro, Honolua Bay | Ed Sloane/World Surf League via Getty Images ©

THE ORIGINAL BOARDRIDERS

Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing. Chants mentioning he’e nalu (surfing) and petroglyphs depicting surfers date back to at least 1500 CE.

When missionaries arrived in the 1820s, they promptly stamped out the ‘hedonistic’ act of surfing, and it was all but extinct by 1890.

In the early 1900s, modern surfing’s first icon, Duke Kahanamoku, stepped off the beach and into history. Kahanamoku grew up on the sands of Waikiki, where he rode the reefs on traditional olo (long-boards weighing in excess of 100lb). After winning an Olympic gold in swimming at Stockholm in 1912, Duke traveled the world to demonstrate the Hawaiian ‘Sport of Kings.’

MAUI SURF BEACHES & BREAKS

Near the town of Haʻiku is the infamous big-wave spot known as Peʻahi, or Jaws. Determined pro surfers, such as Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama, helped put the planet’s largest, most perfect wave on the international map. The waves are so high here that surfers must be towed to them by wave runners.

At Hoʻokipa Beach Park & Overlook, surfers have their pick of four different breaks, which can churn out large waves in winter. Even if you don’t surf, it’s worth watching the action from the seaside lookout. Not into risking your life? Maui’s west and south side offer a wider variety of surf. To the south of Lahaina, intermediate surfers can try Launiupoko Beach Park and Ukumehame Beach Park.

Further south is the Maʻalaea Pipeline, a fickle right-hand reef break often considered one of the fastest in the world. On the island’s northwest corner is majestic Honolua Bay. Its right point break is considered one of the world’s premier points.

Gentler shorebreaks good for bodysurfing can be found around Pāʻia, Kapalua and the beaches between Kihei and Makena.

SURF LINGO

Hawaii has a wonderful linguistic tradition, and the surfing lexicon here is truly fabulous. To prepare yourself for the waves and get in with the ‘brahs’ and ‘bettys’, there are a few words you’ll definitely want to know:

Aggro Someone who is aggressive.

Barney Defined in the classic 1987 surf movie North Shore as a ‘kook in and out of the water.’ It refers to someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing.

Betty A girl who surfs.

Brah A brother or a friend.

Green room The inside of a wave’s tube.

Grom or grommet Younger surfers (who are probably better than you).

BEGINNERS

Newbies should head to the Cove in Kihei for small, beginner waves. For lessons, try Maui Wave Riders, just up the street. On the West Side, head to the family-friendly Launiupoko Beach Park, just south of Lahaina. The southern side of the beach here has small waves.

Ukumehame Beach Park is home to Thousand Peaks, a popular long break. Maui Surfer Girls offer classes here.

Hoʻokipa Beach Park & Overlook | arkanto/Shutterstock ©

SURF ETIQUETTE

• Just as Hawaiian royalty had breaks reserved just for them, so goes it on Hawaii’s surf breaks. Respect locals and local customs, or you might end up with a black eye. Tourists are welcome, but deference to locals is recommended.

• Basic surf etiquette is vital. The person closest to the peak of the wave has the right of way. When somebody is already up and riding, don’t take off on the wave in front of them, and don’t paddle straight through the lineup. Rather, head out where the waves aren’t breaking and find your way into the lineup. When you wipe out – and you’ll do this plenty – try to keep track of your board.

• Also, remember you’re a visitor in the lineup, so don’t expect to get every wave that comes. There’s a definite pecking order and, as a tourist, you’re at the bottom. That said, usually if you give a wave, you’ll get one in return.

• As a tourist in Hawaii, there are some places you go and some places you don’t. For many local families, the beach parks are meeting places where generations gather to celebrate under the sun. They’re tied to these places by community and culture, and they aren’t eager for outsiders to push them out of their time-honored surf spots.

TRIP PLANNER

THE LAHAINA WILDFIRE

On August 8, 2023, one of the deadliest wildfires in US history tore through Lahaina, killing over 100 people, displacing thousands and gutting the island’s most historic buildings. As the town grieves, it’s also contemplating its future, with housing, economic stability, environmental safety and tourism topping the list of concerns.

Lahaina | Peter Unger/Getty Images ©

A BRIEF HISTORY OF LAHAINA

Tucked between the West Maui Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, Lahaina has long been a place of significance for Native Hawaiians. Before the arrival of Western explorers in the late 18th century, Lahaina was a lush seat of regional power. A residential base for Maui chieftains, it was noted for its streams, springs and crops. After King Kamehameha I united the Hawaiian Islands in the early 1800s, he established Lahaina as the capital of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i.

Over the next 200 years, Lahaina was repeatedly transformed by colonists and entrepreneurs. In the 1820s, missionaries arrived. Their descendants became the island’s power-brokers, establishing sugarcane and pineapple plantations that drew immigrant workers from around the globe. Whalers also arrived in the 1820s, disembarking in Lahaina to refuel and carouse. Businesses sprang up in response, only to fizzle out decades later as demand for whale oil waned.

Opening in 1860, Pioneer Mill was one of the earliest sugarcane plantations in Lahaina. It diverted most of the waterways that had kept Lahaina verdant, and when the mill closed in 1999, tourism became the dominant economic driver.

TIMELIME

The timeline of the Lahaina Wildfire stretched over 12 hours.

This timeline is pulled from various national and regional news stories published soon after the fire, but the fire’s causes and chronology are still under investigation.

Just after midnight Powerful winds knock down power lines, which ignite brushfires. The first wildfire begins in the Upcountry, burning 1000 acres and destroying 19 homes in Kula.

Around 6:45am A downed power line ignites a brushfire on a mountain slope above Lahaina. Firefighters arrive.

9–10am The Lahainaluna Rd fire is declared officially contained.

2–2:30pm Firefighters return to the fire station.

Just before 3pm A flare-up is reported near Lahainaluna Rd.

3:22pm The wildfire jumps the Lahaina Bypass, which arcs across the mountain slopes. The bypass closes to traffic.

4:15–4:30pm The fire expands catastrophically, jumping the Honoapiʻilani Hwy and igniting everything in its path, including businesses and neighborhoods, as it roars toward Front Street and the ocean. An immediate evacuation order is posted on social media.

4:35–5pm Roads leading from downtown are obstructed by downed power lines and utility poles. Roads heading south from Lahaina are officially closed in order to repair utility poles. Gridlock ensues. The historic district is soon ablaze. Smoke, dark skies and explosions add to the fear.

After 5pm Fire hydrants lose water power.

6–7pm Trapped in Front St’s impassable traffic jam, people jump over the seawall and into the rough ocean to escape the flames.

8–9:30pm The US Coast Guard is deployed to Front St, and ocean rescues begin.

THOUGHTS FOR REDEVELOPMENT

In the short term – up to two years from the date of the fire – downtown Lahaina will essentially be closed for debris removal and environmental monitoring.

What will a new Lahaina offer?

Residents have spoken in favor of affordable housing, mom-and-pop businesses catering to locals as well as tourists, wider sidewalks and better educational opportunities.

With tourism in mind, others have suggested rehabilitating historic buildings and creating more voluntourism opportunities.

Lahaina wildfire | Gonzalo Marroquin/Getty Images ©

LAHAINA INSIGHTS WITH THEO MORRISON

Theo Morrison, executive director of the Lahaina Restoration Foundation (LRF), has long advocated for the preservation of Lahaina’s history. @lahainarestoration

What would you like to share about Lahaina?

The most important message is that Lahaina was the first capital of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i. Lahaina has been prominent in all eras of Hawaii’s human history. Those eras are pre-contact, monarchy, missionary, whaling, plantation and tourism. We know no other place in Hawaii that can say that.

What are your thoughts on restoring the historic buildings?

We plan to restore all the buildings and sites managed and/or owned by LRF. The fire gutted the coral block and stone buildings from the 1800s, but the walls (of Seamen’s Hospital, Master’s Reading Room, Baldwin Home, Old Lahaina Courthouse, Old Lahaina Prison, Hale Aloha) are still standing. The kindergarten building occupied by the Village Gallery, the Wo Hing Museum and Cookhouse, and the Plantation House, were burned to the ground.

How can visitors learn about Lahaina’s history?

Please visit our website (lahainarestoration.org) and our Facebook and Instagram pages. Any suggestions for visitors after the fire? We are going about our day, but we are all traumatized. We have lost so much. It still feels like a bad dream – please just be kind. Don’t pity us. Just be kind.

CAUSES & CONTRIBUTING FACTORS

The root cause of the fire was, most likely, a brushfire sparked by a downed power line. But a confluence of tragic circumstances and questionable decisions likely transformed a small brushfire into an inferno.

DROUGHT & HURRICANE DORA

Western colonizers introduced non-native grasses and shrubs to Maui. After the island’s sugarcane plantations closed in the late 20th century, these invasive plants were left to grow wild on the West Maui Mountains.

As drought conditions persisted, the grasses dried out, leaving a tinderbox above Lahaina and the Honoapiʻilani Hwy.

In early August 2023, Hurricane Dora moved west across the Pacific, 500 miles south of Hawaii. The low pressure from the hurricane and high pressure from the air circulating from the north was the likely cause of the atypically strong trade winds that roared down the West Maui Mountains. Fueled by dry grasses and propelled by winds, the morning brushfire grew into a monstrous conflagration.

Burned homes and cars, Lahaina | Justin Sullivan/Getty Images ©

PROBLEMATIC DECISIONS & REPERCUSSIONS

Although the cause of the fire will be litigated for years to come, official decisions may have contributed to the harm.

Some residents wonder if power lines should have been shut down due to the high winds. This may have prevented the original brushfire, likely sparked by a downed line. In addition, worried that downed power lines were active and dangerous, key roads were officially closed, leading to gridlocks that prevented many from escaping by car. If the power had been shut off preemptively, closing the roads may not have been necessary. It could be argued that power is necessary for emergency responders and public communications.

Others have questioned the firefighters’ decisions to leave the scene of the initial fire after it was decided, incorrectly, that it had been contained. Also at issue was the decision not to activate the outdoor siren system used for tsunamis. It was argued that sirens would have sent people away from the ocean, toward the mountains – and the fire. Evacuation orders on social media were also delayed or inconsistent with what was actually occurring.

Finally, some of Lahaina’s fire hydrants lost pressure or ran dry, hampering firefighters’ efforts. The lack of water stemmed from the drought, tying back to centuries of poor water management.

Banyan Tree, Lahaina | PomInOz/Shutterstock ©

LAHAINA HOUSING

Lahaina had 13,000 full-time residents before the fire. Due to limited infrastructure and exorbitant prices, housing was scarce. With the loss of homes, thousands were displaced. Many have been living temporarily in rooms at resorts and vacation rentals that have also been hosting tourists, making for an uneasy mix.

After the blaze, the American Red Cross helped provide housing for about 8000. By the end of February 2024, that number had dropped to about 4000 people across 16 hotels. Since the fire, the displaced have faced daily housing insecurity – shuffled from location to location, often with little notice, as tourists return and resorts open up. Officials have been pushing owners of short-term rentals to open more units to displaced families, offering tax breaks and other rewards.

Members of Fishing for Maui, a protest group, took up residence on Kā‘anapali Beach in late 2023. According to state law, as long as you are ocean fishing with a line in the water, you can spend the night on a beach. The group says it will camp there until it has ‘caught’ long-term housing for the displaced.

THE BANYAN TREE: SIGNS OF LIFE

Lahaina’s iconic banyan tree was charred by the fire but remained standing. Thanks to the efforts of arborists, it sprouted new leaves weeks later.

The tree, the largest in Hawaii, rises 60ft beside the Old Lahaina Courthouse. Planted in 1873 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the arrival of missionaries, the tree became a virtual forest, with 16 trunks and scores of horizontal branches reaching across the better part of an acre.

However, some Native Hawaiians think the banyan a symbol of Western colonization and the loss of Native Hawaiian land and sovereignty. Nor is it a link to Lahaina’s earliest history. For some, more devastating was the loss of the Nā ‘Aikāne o Maui Cultural Center – a hub of important Native Hawaiian artifacts.

TRIP PLANNER

THE ROAD TO HANA

There’s a sense of suspense you just can’t shake while driving the Road to Hana, a serpentine road lined with tumbling waterfalls, lush slopes, rugged coasts and serious hairpin turns. Spanning the northeast shore of Maui, the legendary Hana Hwy crosses 54 one-lane bridges that mark nearly as many waterfalls. It’s typically driven in a day, with stops at waterfalls and sites along the way, and drivers then backtrack to their accommodation in the late afternoon. We recommend spending a night in Hana so you don’t have to rush: the experience is more fun if taken at a relaxed pace.

The Road to Hana | ehabaref/Getty Images ©

Getting Started

The drive kicks off on the eastern fringe of Haʻiku, near Huelo. To drive at your own pace, rent a car.

Tour companies run their own Road to Hana trips, with stops at waterfalls and other attractions. Valley Isle Excursions include breakfast and lunch and leave Hana via the thrilling Piʻilani Hwy.

For a deep dive, try Shaka Guide’s online GPS audio-tours of the route (shakaguide.com/tours/maui/classic-road-to-hana-tour).

The Main Sights

TWIN FALLS

Just after the Hana Hwy’s 2-mile marker, a parking area appears on your right. Pull in here for Twin Falls, a photo-genic double cascade and swimming hole reached after a short hike through a tropical farm. Billed as the first waterfall on the road to Hana, it can get crowded.

WAIKAMOI NATURE TRAIL

Tree-huggers, lace up those walking shoes. The foliage and spicy scents along this 1-mile loop through lush, shaded forest will nourish your soul. If the ridge isn’t thick with forest, you’ll be treated to views of Hana Hwy. The trailhead is signposted after the 9-mile marker, where a dirt pull-off is wide enough for several cars.

WHEN (AND HOW) TO GO

Best times to go Get a sunrise start to beat the crowds.

Spend one or two nights in Hana so you’re not feeling rushed – you can visit the attractions you missed on the way back.

Tips on driving Fill your tank in Pā‘ia or Haʻiku; the next gas station isn’t until Hana, and it sometimes runs dry.

Bring snacks and water.

Wear good hiking shoes and a bathing suit under your clothes for impromptu swims.

Pull over to let local drivers pass – they’re moving at a different pace.

Leave valuables at your hotel, not in the car.

Avoid school holidays, when traffic will be heavier.

GARDEN OF EDEN ARBORETUM

Why pay a steep $20 per person to visit an arboretum when the entire Road to Hana is a garden? Well, the Garden of Eden Arboretum does offer a tamer version of paradise. The winding paths are neat, the flowers identified, and the views from the hilltop picnic tables gorgeous, including those of Puohokamoa Falls and Keopuka Rock, featured in the opening shot of Jurassic Park.

Cape Blue Water Lily, Garden of Eden | Serge Yatunin/Shutterstock ©

RAPPEL MAUI

‘I’m having so much fun right now!’ That’s a shout heard from a stoked adventurer rappelling down the face of massive Puohokamoa Falls. After a few thrilling descents with Rappel Maui, this way-out sport seems easy by the end, even with no previous experience. Their ‘Classic Tour’ lasts three hours; they operate out of the Garden of Eden.

KAUMAHINA STATE WAYSIDE PARK

Clean restrooms and a grassy lawn with picnic tables make the roadside Kaumahina State Wayside Park a family-friendly stop. It’s 350yd after the 12-mile marker. Take the short walk up the hill for eye-popping views of the coastal scenery.

KEʻANAE ARBORETUM

Pull over 0.6 miles after the 16-mile marker for a pleasant paved stroll through the Keʻanae Arboretum, home to amazing tropical flora. The scented scenic trail follows the Piʻinaʻau Stream past magnificent trees and plants, from taro and bamboo to hanging vines and colorful flowers.

TOP WATERFALLS

Twin Falls

Take the hike to these double falls with a swimming hole. (Mile marker 2)

Puohokamoa Falls

Get the best view of Puohokamoa from the Garden of Eden Arboretum. (Mile marker 11)

Haipuaʻena Falls

Sink into this secluded spot with a deep and serene pool. (Mile marker 11)

Three Bears Falls

Also known as Waikani, these photogenic falls can be reached by a slippery downward path. (Mile marker 19.5.)

Puaʻa Kaʻa State Wayside Park

These two small waterfalls with pools also have public restrooms. (Mile marker 22.5)

Hanawi Falls

Located 175yd beyond the mile marker, Hanawi is worth a picture. Pull offs are before and after the bridge. (Mile marker 24)

Makapipi Falls

Watch the powerful cascade plunge beneath your feet on the ocean side of the bridge. (Mile marker 25)

KEʻANAE PENINSULA

This rare slice of ‘Old Hawaii’ and its wild lava coast are reached by taking Keʻanae Rd on the makai (seaward) side of the highway, just beyond the arboretum. Families have tended stream-fed taro here for generations. The rock islets off the coast are seabird sanctuaries.

WAILUA VALLEY STATE WAYSIDE PARK

Near the 19-mile marker is the Wailua Valley State Wayside Park. A steep staircase climbs to the overlook, which provides a broad view into the verdant Keʻanae Valley. On a clear day, spot Koʻolau Gap, the break in the rim of Haleakalā crater.

PUAʻA KAʻA STATE WAYSIDE PARK

The Hana Hwy cuts right through the delightful five-acre Puaʻa Kaʻa State Wayside Park, after the 22-mile marker. Park by the restrooms on the ocean side of the road and cross the highway.

Walk inland to find a pair of delicious waterfalls. The upper pool is best for swimming. To get to the lower falls, walk back over the bridge and stroll upstream.

HANA LAVA TUBE

Who’s afraid of the dark? One of the odder sights on the Road to Hana, the mammoth Hana Lava Tube was formed by ancient lava flows some 960 years ago. It once served as a slaughterhouse – 17,000lb of cow bones had to be removed before it was opened to visitors. It’s the largest lava tube on Maui and is just after mile marker 31.

Pa‘iloa Beach | VisualCommunications/Getty Images ©

PIʻILANIHALE HEIAU & KAHANU GARDEN

Probably the most significant stop on the entire Road to Hana, Piʻilanihale Heiau & Kahanu Garden combines a 294-acre ethnobotanical garden with the magnificent Piʻilanihale Heiau, the largest temple in Polynesia.

A must-do tour covers the extraordinary relationship between Native Hawaiians and their environment – perhaps the best opportunity in Hawaii to understand traditional Hawaiian culture. Tours are Fridays at 11am. Reserve online via ntbg.org/gardens/kahanu.

WAIʻĀNAPANAPA STATE PARK

Waiʻānapanapa State Park may be small, but it packs a scenic punch. The park is anchored by Pa‘iloa Beach, the prettiest black-sand beach on Maui, so sunbathe and enjoy. If you jump in, be cautious: it has vicious dumping waves, an undertow, and challenging water conditions Powerful rips are the norm, and drownings occur.

There’s a natural lava arch on the right of Paʻiloa Bay, bordered by low rocky cliffs and a coastal trail with ancient lava stepping stones. There are restrooms, camping and cabin facilities, and the odd fruit stall. The lava-tube caves are closed to the public. Online reservations for visiting are required (/dln.hawaii.gov).

Three Bears Falls | Susanne Pommer/Shutterstock ©

PIʻILANI TRAIL

History

• This gem of a coastal trail unfurls on top of a raw lava field above the sea.

• The route stretches about 2 miles southeast, from Paʻiloa Beach to Kainalimu Bay, following an ancient footpath known as the King’s Trail, which once circled the island.

• Some of the worn stepping stones date from the time of Piʻilani, who ruled Maui in the 14th century.

Tips

• In spots, the gravel path skirts sheer, potentially fatal drops into the sea, so exercise caution.

• Don’t bring the kids on this one.

• Pack water and snacks.

• Wear good hiking shoes.

• Signage about trails and mileage can be confusing.

Route

• Begin at Paʻiloa Beach and skirt the ocean along lava cliffs.

• Pass a burial ground, a natural sea arch and a blowhole. Watch for endangered Hawaiian monk seals basking onshore.

• Look for the signed ruins of the Ohala Heiau, but don’t disturb this ancient platform.

• After 0.75 miles are the basalt cliffs. Ancient stepping stones soon mark the way across lava to a grassy clearing.

• A dirt road comes in from the right as the trail arrives at Luahaloa, a ledge with a collapsed fishing shack.

• Stepping stones hasten the approach to Kainalimu Bay as the trail dips down to a black beach.

• The dirt roads lead another mile south to Hana.

Best Food Stops

AUNTY SANDY’S BANANA BREAD

‘Da best’ banana bread on the Road to Hana is baked fresh by Aunty Sandy. It’s very good. In Keʻanae, after mile marker 16.

HALFWAY TO HANA

This aptly named old-timer, just after mile marker 17, has been slinging burgers and hot dogs to road-trippers for 30 years. The only ATM on the highway is here.

NAHIKU MARKETPLACE

Just before mile marker 29. Outlets range in cuisine and style, and smells of smoked-barbecue goodness linger. There’s also a small coffee shop.

COCONUT GLEN’S

From his technicolor roadside food truck just past mile marker 27, Coconut Glen’s vegan ice-cream is trying to ‘change the world one scoop at a time’.

THE FOOD SCENE

Menus in Maui reflect the island’s multicultural heritage, and they do so with a sense of fun, inclusiveness and generosity.

Loco moco | from my point of view/Shutterstock ©

The best pupu (snacks) and entrees in Maui share a simple exuberance and a no-worries embrace of foreign flavors. The plate lunch, loco moco and bowls of poke are a few tasty examples. Even Spam musubi (Spam on rice – like sushi) has a sassy, if salty, international charm.

Hawaiian food can be divided into three categories: local food, Native Hawaiian dishes, and Hawaii Regional Cuisine. Local food is cheap, fattening and tasty, and very common island-wide. Native Hawaiian dishes and preparation methods trace back to the island’s first settlers. Hawaii Regional Cuisine is a food movement that appeared in the 1990s after a handful of pioneering Maui chefs created innovative menus that borrowed liberally from Hawaii’s various ethnic influences while embracing locally grown and sourced ingredients. Hawaii Regional dining tends to be a bit ‘elevated,’ too.

Habits & Customs

Portions

Locals tend to consider quantity to be as important as quality – and the portion sizes are telling, especially at plate-lunch places. If you’re a light eater, feel free to split a meal or take home the leftovers.

Potlucks

Home entertainment for local folk always revolves around food, which is usually served ‘potluck style,’ with all the invited guests adding to the anything-goes smorgasbord.

Note that locals rarely serve dinner in one-at-a-time courses; rather, meals are served ‘family style,’ where diners help themselves. Throwaway paper plates and wooden chopsticks make for an easy clean-up, and the rule is ‘all you can eat.’ (And they definitely mean it!)

Invitations

If you’re invited to someone’s home, show up on time and bring a dish – preferably homemade, but a bakery cake or manjū (Japanese cakes filled with sweet bean paste) from Sam Sato’s in Wailuku are always a certain hit. Remember to remove your shoes at the door, and don’t be surprised if you’re forced to take home a plate of delicious leftovers.

Spam a Lot

Spam arrived in Hawaii during WWII, when imports of fresh meat were replaced by this standard GI ration. By the end of the war, Hawaiians had developed a taste for the canned stuff. Today, Hawaiians consume a whopping seven million cans of Spam annually.

Spam looks and tastes slightly different in Hawaii. It’s cooked first – typically sautéed to a light crispiness in sweetened shōyu – not eaten straight from the can, as is the norm. It’s served up as a tasty meat dish. The popular Spam musubi – commonly seen at grocers and convenience stores – is a must-try snack.

Spam musubi | 4kodiak/Getty Images ©

FOOD & DRINK FESTIVALS

Poi on taro leaves

East Maui Taro Festival The taro plant, a traditional dietary staple also known as kalo, takes the spotlight at this multi-activity festival in April in Hana.

Maui Brewers Festival Craft breweries from around the Hawaiian Islands share their sudsy creations in May at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center.

Kapalua Wine & Food Festival Wine tastings, seminars and food offerings from Maui’s best restaurants draw crowds in June. Held at venues across the Kapalua Resort.

Maui AgFest & 4H Livestock Fair Held in June in the War Memorial Complex in Wailuku, this family-friendly event focuses on the bounty of Maui’s farmers and producers. At the fair’s Grand Taste event, local chefs compete using local ingredients.

Upcountry Farmers Market A great place to check out the range of produce grown on the island. Held every Saturday morning in Pukalani.

Best Hawaiian Dishes

POKE

Raw fish marinated in shōyu (soy sauce), oil, chili peppers, green onions and seaweed.

SHAVE ICE

Ice shaved fine as powdery snow, packed into a paper cone and drenched with syrups in dazzling hues.

LAULAU

Pork or chicken with salted butterfish wrapped in a taro leaf and steamed.

HAUPIA

Delicious pudding made of coconut cream, thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot.

HULI-HULI CHICKEN

Chicken marinated and cooked on a rotisserie. Huli means ‘turn’.

KALUA PORK PLATE LUNCH

Chunky layers of kalua pork, with macaroni and rice.

LOCO MOCO

Rice topped with a hamburger patty, fried egg and brown gravy.

BAKED ʻULU

Baked breadfruit, which has a texture similar to potato.

Food Glossary

Hawaii’s cuisine is multiethnic, and so is the lingo.

adobo – Filipino chicken or pork cooked in vinegar, shōyu, garlic and spices

ʻawa kava – a Polynesian plant used to make a mildly intoxicating drink
char siu – Cantonese barbecued pork
crack seed – Chinese-style preserved fruit; a salty, sweet and/or sour snack
donburi – Japanese-style bowl of rice topped with protein
furikake catch-all – Japanese seasoning or condiment, usually dry and sprinkled atop rice; in Hawaii, sometimes mixed into poke
guava – fruit with green or yellow rind, moist pink flesh and lots of edible seeds
haupia – coconut-cream custard, often thickened with arrowroot or cornstarch
huli-huli chicken – rotisserie-cooked chicken with island-style barbecue sauce
kalbi – Korean-style grilled meat, typically marinated short ribs
kalo – Hawaiian word for taro, often pounded into poi
kalua – Hawaiian method of cooking pork or other luau food
kare-kare – Filipino oxtail stew
katsu – Japanese deep-fried cutlets, usually pork or chicken
laulau – bundle of pork or chicken and salted butterfish, wrapped in taro leaves and steamed
li hing mui – sweet-salty preserved plum, a type of crack seed
lilikoʻi – passion fruit
loco moco – hearty dish of rice, fried egg and hamburger patty topped with gravy or other condiments
lomi-lomi salmon – minced, salted salmon with diced tomato and green onion
malasada – sugar-coated, fried Portuguese doughnut (no hole), often filled with flavored custard
manapua – Chinese bao (baked or steamed buns) with char siu or other fillings
manjū – Japanese steamed or baked cake, often filled with sweet bean paste
mochi – Japanese pounded-rice cake, sticky and sweet
musubi – Japanese onigiri (rice ball or triangle) wrapped in nori
nori – Japanese seaweed, usually dried
okazu-ya – Japanese takeout delicatessen, often specializing in home-style Hawaiian and local dishes
poi – staple Hawaiian starch made of steamed, mashed taro
poke – cubed, marinated raw fish
ponzu – Japanese citrus sauce
saimin – local-style noodle soup
shave ice – cup of finely shaved ice doused with sweet syrups
shōyu – soy sauce
star fruit – translucent greeny-yellow fruit with five ribs like the points of a star, and sweet pulp

Kalua pork plate lunch plus poke | BONCHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Specialties

Daily eats for residents and tourists reflect the state’s multicultural heritage, with Japanese, Chinese, Korean and Portuguese influences.

Local Food

Local food is the stuff of cravings and comfort, with plate lunches being the ubiquitous classic. While pork is a staple, it can be swapped for fried mahi mahi (a type of dolphinfish, but not a dolphin) or chicken. A favorite breakfast version includes fried egg, Portuguese sausage and rice.

If you’ve got the munchies, then pupu pupu (snacks) are your thing. Pupu represent the ethnic diversity of the islands, and includes boiled peanuts in the shell and edamame (boiled fresh soybeans in the pod).

Poke is also a staple that comes in many varieties. Sesame ahi (yellowfin tuna) is particularly delicious, especially with beer.

Native Hawaiian

A luau (Hawaiian feast) is a great place to try several Native Hawaiian dishes, with the main ingredients being kalua pork and poi (steamed, mashed taro). These are the ‘meat and potatoes’ of Native Hawaiian food. Kalua pork is traditionally baked in an underground oven, and poi is served as the side dish – the purple paste is pounded from cooked taro roots. It’s nutritious, but for many it’s also an acquired taste, largely because of its consistency.

Edamame | FUDIO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Hawaii Regional Cuisine

The catchwords? Fresh, organic, and local. Think Upcountry greens, Maui chèvre (goat’s cheese), Kula onions, Hana beef and local fish. The spread of the movement has been a boon to small-scale farmers, who are greening Maui’s gardens and menus.

Maui chefs who kickstarted the movement include Roy Yamaguchi (Roy’s Kaʻanapali), Beverly Gannon (Haliʻimaile General Store) and the late Mark Ellman (Mala Ocean Tavern and Honu Seafood & Pizza.

MEALS OF A LIFETIME

Bamboo Hale at Hana Farms Salads and wood-fired pizzas are loaded with locally grown veggies and served in a tropical setting.

Mama’s Fish House Celebrate a special occasion with exquisite fish, impeccable service and a prime beach view.

Monkeypod Kitchen It’s your favorite neighborhood restaurant in Wailea, done Hawaiian style.

Oki’s Seafood Corner Step up to the counter, located within Kahului’s Foodland grocery store. So much better than the poke bowl chains in other states.

Restaurant at Hotel Wailea At the only Relais & Chateaux restaurant in Hawaii, seafood and sunsets impress.

THE YEAR IN FOOD

YEAR-ROUND

It’s always a good time to dig into produce grown in Maui’s Upcountry. Due to the island’s consistently warm tropical climate, most fruit and vegetables are harvested year-round. Local farmers sell their produce every Saturday morning (7am-11am) in Pukulani at the Upcountry Farmers Market.

EQROY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

APRIL

Head to Hana to celebrate taro, a unique and revered Hawaiian plant with a starchy potato-like quality. It’s used in burgers, chips and mashed into a paste-like pudding called poi.

ROBERT B. MILLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

OCTOBER

As Halloween approaches, take the family to the pumpkin patch at Kula Country Farms, where there’s also a corn maze.

ANN W. KOSCHE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE OUTDOORS

Jagged lava coasts. Lush tropical mountains. A lunar-like crater. And a grove of soaring bamboo. The scenery for outdoor adventures in Maui is just as epic as the activities themselves.

Haleakalā Summit Area | Maridav/Shutterstock ©

Epic adventures aren’t limited to the sea; fun activities on land are plentiful, too. Maui’s hiking, biking and horseback-riding trails traverse some of the most unique ecosystems on earth. And if knocking around a little white ball is your thing, would-be pros can stalk the very greens where the professionals play. But not all outdoor experiences raise you heart rate or test your skills. Nope, you can also stargaze, camp by the sea or get an outdoor massage.

Hiking

The diversity is what makes hiking and cycling on Maui so memorable. Trails hug lofty ridges, twist through green jungles, swing past waterfalls and meander across rough lava fields. You’ll also find trails for every level of skill, from easy paths with big coastal views to thrilling mountainside routes that climb and plunge with abandon.

Guided & Group Hikes

One of Maui’s top environmental shakers, the Sierra Club (mauisierraclub.org), sponsors guided hikes, often educational, to various places around the island. Everyone is welcome; nonmembers are asked to register and pay a $5 donation.

A naturalist leads hikes with Hike Maui, which takes small groups into topical terrain, and the crater of the Haleakalā Summit Area. Hikes with Helewai Eco-tours explore the scenic wilds of the Honolua Ridge Trail above Kapalua.

FAMILY ADVENTURES

Let the young ones burn off energy at Wailea Beach, where they can bodyboard and snorkel.

Hang out with adorable kids – of the goat variety – and help with farm chores at Surfing Goat Dairy in Pukalani.

Slip into a mermaid tail and swim though the waters like a mythical sea creature with Hawaii Mermaid Adventure in Makena Bay.

Experience total darkness inside the long underground tunnel of Hana Lava Tube along the Road to Hana.

Look for silverswords and cinder cones on a hike to the Haleakalā Summit Area of the namesake national park.

Sample exotic fruit as you bounce through orchids on a 300-acre farm at Ono Organic Farms in Kipahulu.

Preservation & Access

Of special interest to hikers and naturalists is the work of Nā Ala Hele, a group affiliated with Hawaii’s Division of Forestry and Wildlife. Nā Ala Hele was established in 1988 with the task of coordinating public access to hiking trails, and maintaining and preserving historic trails.

On Maui, the group has negotiated with private landowners and the military to gain access to previously restricted areas and re-establish abandoned trails. Visit its website for trail descriptions (hawaiitrails.hawaii.gov/trails).

Surfing Goat Dairy | Brian Lauer/FLICKR/CC BY 2.0 DEED ©

GOATS GALORE

Try Maui Goat Yoga with calming views

Hiking Considerations

Be careful on the edge of steep cliffs, as cliffside rock in Maui tends to be crumbly. Flash floods are a potential threat in many of the steep, narrow valleys on Maui that require stream crossings. If the water begins to rise, get to higher ground immediately.

Darkness falls fast once the sun sets and ridgetop trails are no place to be caught unprepared in the dark. Always carry a headlamp. Wear long pants for protection from overgrowth and sturdy footwear with good traction. Pack 2L of water per person for a day hike, carry a whistle to alert rescue workers if necessary, wear sunscreen and start early.

Cycling & Mountain Biking

For easy rides, you can rent a beach cruiser and explore coastal roads in South Maui or the North Shore Bike Path in the Upcountry. Note that road cyclists on Maui face a number of challenges: narrow roads, heavy traffic, an abundance of hills and mountains, and the same persistent winds that delight windsurfers. Many roads, however, including the Piʻilani Hwy in Hana, do have bike lanes.

For more challenges, as well as amazing high-elevation and jungle views, hop on a road bike or a mountain bike and pedal into the hills.

Other Outdoor Thrills

ZIPLINING

Click in. Grab tight. Thumbs up. And whooooosh…you’re off, through the lush West Maui Mountains with Skyline Hawaii.

HORSEBACK RIDING

With its abundant ranch-land and vibrant cowboy culture, Maui offers great riding experiences, especially at Napili’s Ironwood Ranch.

CAMPING

Pitch a tent or park your campervan steps from the ocean at Camp Olowalu – which also has posh tentalows.

BACKPACKING

Descend into the crater at the Haleakalā Summit Area or rent a cabin at Hōlua Cabin & Campground.

TENNIS & PICKLEBALL

Singles? Doubles? Take your pick at the world-class facilities at Wailea Tennis Club and Kapalua Tennis Garden.

GOLF

The most prestigious of Maui’s 14 courses is the Kapalua Plantation Golf Course; you’re in the company of Tiger Woods and Ernie Els.

STARGAZING

View constellations and the Milky Way from Hosmer Grove or in the Haleakalā Summit Area.

ACTION AREAS

Where to find Maui’s best outdoor activities.

MAUI

THE GUIDE

Chapters in this section are organised by hubs and their surrounding areas. We see the hub as your base in the destination, where you’ll find unique experiences, local insights, insider tips and expert recommendations. It’s also your gateway to the surrounding area, where you’ll see what and how much you can do from there.

Boardwalk to the Waimoku Falls | Alexandre.ROSA/Shutterstock ©

Lahaina & West Maui

VISIT WITH LOVE AND RESPECT

Central and downtown Lahaina remain essentially closed, but tourism continues apace across the rest of West Maui. Active travelers can snorkel, zipline, hike, golf, sail – and volunteer.

PHOTOGRAPHY WILD ROSE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

West Maui was forever changed by a devastating wildfire that tore a deadly path through the heart of historic Lahaina on August 8, 2023. In the ensuing months, the region mourned the loss of lives and homes – and mentally prepared for the return of tourists. Thousands of displaced residents moved into resorts across West Maui, sharing common spaces with vacationers and enduring multiple relocations as more tourists returned.

This recovery period has required an uneasy balancing act for the island: supporting the grieving and displaced while acknowledging the need to preserve local livelihoods, most practically through tourism.

This time of grief, uncertainty and stress will continue for months, and probably years. The ongoing island-wide housing shortage doesn’t help things. Beyond Lahaina, visitors will, for the most part, find a welcoming community glad to see tourists return – with a coinciding hope that they will treat the people and the land with respect.

So where to travel? Kaʻanapali remains West Maui’s splashy center, a look-at-me town with world-class golf courses, stylish resorts, oceanfront dining and a dazzling, mile-long beach.

Further north, Hawaiian history and exclusivity have formed an intriguing, sometimes uneasy alliance in Kapalua, also home to gorgeous beaches. Kahana and Napili are lovely seaside communities known for their condos and budget-friendly prices. For off-the-grid excitement, buckle up for a drive around the untamed northern coast.

Old jetty, Olowalu | Joe West/Getty Images ©

The Main Areas

LAHAINA

Fire recovery; some reopenings north of downtown.

OLOWALU & UKUMEHAME BEACH PARK

Historic valley, snorkel-ing and surfing.

KAʻANAPALI

Sparkling beaches with outdoor sports on land and sea.

KAPALUA & NAPILI

Snorkeling and golfing on a wild coast.

Find Your Way

West Maui is a busy resort area (with a few wild patches) that stretches along the coast between Maʻalaea, Kapalua and the wild Kahekili Hwy. The Honoapi‘ilani Hwy is the main highway through the region.

Plan Your Time

Most coastal towns in West Maui are within a half hour’s drive of each other, making it easy to explore the whole region in one week while base-camping in one place.

Waihe‘e Ridge Trail | MNStudio/Shutterstock ©

One Day in West Maui

Greet the day on the Kapalua Coastal Trail, then swing by the Gazebo for breakfast. Spend the morning sunbathing and scanning for green turtles on Kapalua Beach. Head to Whalers Village in Kaʻanapali for an oceanfront meal and cocktail. Enjoy people-watching and water fun on Kaʻanapali Beach, before a sunset cruise.

Three Days in West Maui

Spend your first day in Kaʻanapali, strolling the beach walk, snorkeling Pu‘u Keka‘a, and shopping at Whalers Village. Explore Kapalua and Napili beaches on your second day and soar down a mountain on a zipline with Skyline Hawaii. Tackle the Kahekili Hwy on your last day or the Waihe‘e Ridge Trail.

Seasonal Highlights

SPRING

You might find good deals between mid-April and mid-June.

SUMMER

Visit in June for the Kapalua Wine & Food Festival, held in the Kapalua Resort.

AUTUMN

You may find good deals during the fall shoulder season, after summer and before whale watching.

WINTER

Enjoy the Hula O Nā Keiki hula competition at Outrigger Kaʻanapali Beach Resort in November.

Lahaina

HAWAIIAN FEASTS | BEACHES | HISTORY

On August 8, 2023, a wind-driven wildfire tore down the slopes of the West Maui Mountains, jumping the Lahaina Bypass and scorching a deadly path through the core of Lahaina’s downtown. The conflagration killed over 100 people and displaced thousands. Businesses, homes and historic structures in the downtown area were almost completely destroyed.

The entire downtown will be closed to the public for the foreseeable future as survivors grieve, figure out the best path forward, and rebuild.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Maui Kuʻia Estate Chocolate

2   Old Lahaina Luau

EATING

3   Cool Cat Cafe

4   Honu Seafood & Pizza

5   Mala Ocean Tavern

6   Moku Roots

7   Star Noodle

TOP TIP

Beyond the downtown core, some businesses and restaurants in north Lahaina began reopening in late 2023. What’s included here has been verified as being open, but things are uncertain and subject to change.

Tour a Chocolate Factory

Compare samples at an estate

Learn how cacao beans are transformed into chocolate bars during this 90-minute tour of the chocolate factory at Maui Kuʻia Estate Chocolate, located on the northern fringe of Lahaina, on Ulupono St. The beans are sourced from Maui, Ecuador and Uganda, and seven delicious chocolate samples are provided during a chocolate tasting after the tour.

Post-tour, if you’re in need of more decadence, you can order desserts, wine, coffee and milkshakes at the onsite bar and cafe. You can also enjoy wine with your sweets during the estate’s Sunday Jazz performances (5–7pm). Reserve a tour online (mauichocolate.com; $100 person). Note that kids under 10 will not be able to attend the tour.

THE LAHAINA WILDFIRE

To learn more about the devastating wildfire and its impact on Lahaina, its people and its history, read our feature on the Lahaina Wildfire.

An Evening at Old Lahaina Luau

Hawaiian feasts and hula dancing

From the warm greeting to the Hawaiian feast and entertainment featuring the best hula dancers on the island, everything at the Old Lahaina Luau is premium (including the drinks). No other luau on Maui comes close to matching this one for its authenticity, presentation and all-around aloha. The feast is good, with typical Hawaiian fare that includes crispy kalo (taro), pork cooked in the traditional kālua method in an underground pit; ahi poke (raw tuna), grilled beefsteak, an array of sumptuous salads and sides, lomi-lomi salmon (minced, salted salmon with diced tomato and green onion), and creamy coconut haupia (pudding).

The stage entertainment tells the story of Hawaii through dance, from early migration and ancient hula to the arrival of missionaries and immigrants, and the noble kings.

It’s held on the beach near Front St, behind the Lahaina Cannery Mall on the north side of town. One caveat is that it often sells out a month in advance, so make sure to reserve online ahead of time (oldlahainaluau.com).

RESTAURANT REOPENINGS

Many restaurants in downtown Lahaina were destroyed by the fire. Some decided to close permanently. As we went to print, the following restaurants planned to reopen.

Moku Roots

Popular vegan restaurant that has reopened at its Kula farm for reservation-only meals. $$$

Star Noodle

Noodle shop famed for its eclectic array of Asian-fusion plates. About 1.5 miles from the center. $$

Mala Ocean Tavern

Upmarket waterfront restaurant on Front St; deliciously fusing Mediterranean and Pacific influences. $$$

Honu Seafood & Pizza

Tasty wood-fired pizzas, fresh salads and comfort food. $$$

Cool Cat Cafe

Burger joint and longtime favorite near the banyan tree is closing its Lahaina location and reopening in Kihei. $$

LAHAINA’S HISTORIC BUILDINGS DESTROYED BY THE WILDFIRE

Baldwin Home Museum

Built in 1834–35, this was the community’s first medical clinic and the home of a missionary doctor.

Masters Reading Room

This 1830s building was used by ship captains as a club in between their seafaring adventures.

Old Lahaina Courthouse

Built in 1859, the courthouse held customs operations, the governor’s office, and jail. It borders the banyan tree.

Olowalu & Ukumehame Beach Park

ANCIENT CARVINGS | SURFING | FAMOUS CORAL REEF

The West Maui Mountains provide the scenic backdrop to Olowalu, and give it its name, which means ‘Many Hills.’ For hundreds of years, Olowalu Valley was a place of refuge for those seeking protection and sanctuary after defeat in battle. Today, the tiny village is marked by a general store, the popular Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop, a butterfly farm, a fruit stand and a farmers market – all fronted by a tunnel of monkeypod trees.

Behind the village sits a hidden historical site, with ancient stone carvings dating back hundreds of years. Across the Honoapi‘ilani Hwy is Olowalu’s famed coral reef – a prime destination for snorkeling.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop

2   Maui Surfer Girls

3   Olowalu Petroglyphs

SIGHTS

see 1   Maui Butterfly Farm

4   Olowalu Beach

5   Papawai Point

see 2   Ukumehame Beach Park

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

6   Kayak Olowalu

7   Lahaina Pali Trail

see 1   Thousand Peaks

SLEEPING

8   Camp Olowalu

9   Papalaua Wayside Park

SHOPPING

see 1   Olowalu General Store

GETTING AROUND

Olowalu is a 12-minute drive south along the Honoapiʻilani Hwy from Lahaina. Olowalu Village is at mile marker 15. For snorkeling, park in the hard dirt on the ocean side of the highway at mile marker 14. Maui Bus does not stop in Olowalu.

TOP TIP

If you’re camping at Camp Olowalu or Pāpalaua Wayside Park, you can pick up last-minute snacks, hotdogs, beer and overnight supplies at the Olowalu General Store, which opened in 1932. They sell a little bit of everything – including shave ice.

Surf Lessons at Ukumehame Beach

Catch the waves with Maui Surfer Girls

If you’re a first-time surfer, the coastline at Ukumehame Beach Park can look intimidating: the waves seem far from the shore; there are underwater reefs to avoid; and the branches of fallen kiawe trees face the surf like sharpened spears. But after instruction and encouragement from the talented crew at Maui Surfer Girls, plus some time on the water, your first-time jitters will flip to enthusiasm as you attempt your first wave – and the Surfer Girls are rooting for you hard! The two-hour classes are open to men, women and children (13 years and up) and include up to eight people ($99 per person). It’s recommended to book online up to a month in advance, although you may be able to find a class a day or two beforehand if there’s been a last-minute cancellation. Maui Surfer Girls also runs six-night women’s surf camps, based at Camp Olowalu.

Located at mile marker 12 of the Honoapiʻilani Hwy, the beach park is also home to the Thousand Peaks surf spot. Toward Ukumehame’s western end, this longboarders’ and beginners’ reef break is all in the name – lots of waves peaking in different places. As there are plenty of waves to go round, it feels less crowded than other places on the coast.

Admire Ancient Petroglyphs

A collection of Hawaiian stone carvings

Olowalu Valley is home to the Olowalu Petroglyphs: a collection of ancient Hawaiian stone carvings that are roughly 300 years old. As with most of Maui’s petroglyphs, these figures are carved into the vertical sides of cliffs, rather than on horizontal lava, as they are on Hawaiʻi, the Big Island.

Most of the Olowalu figures have been damaged and subject to the typical wear and tear, but you can still make out some of them. The carvings include humans and animals, canoes with sails and some may reference early Hawaiian legends.

Don’t climb the rocks for a better look, however, and do watch for falling rocks. There’s interpretive signage at the site for background information. Just a short walk further up the road are more petroglyphs, if you haven’t had your fill here.

Volunteer with Kipuka Olowalu

Learn about Native Hawaiian culture

Planting taro on your hands and knees in the shadows of the Olowalu Valley isn’t just a reenactment of ancient agricultural practices. Nope, it’s also a chance to give back to Maui by helping to preserve a historically important agricultural site, all the while learning about Hawaiian culture and connecting spiritually with the land. On a talk-story tour of the Olowalu Petroglyphs with Kipuka Olowalu, you’ll learn about ancient agricultural practices and how ‘clean farming’ benefits the coral reefs at nearby Olowalu Beach, the largest reef area in Maui County. Tasks may vary by visit. Volunteer days are Wednesday and Thursday from 7:30am to 11:30am and are part of the Mālama Hawaiʻi Program. Complete the registration form online (kipukaolowalu.org).

THE OLOWALU MASSACRE

In January 1790, the American ship Eleanora arrived on Maui, with its crew eager to trade Western goods for food supplies and sandalwood. Late one night, a party of Hawaiian men stole the ship’s skiff. Captain Simon Metcalf heard that the skiff had been taken to Olowalu, and so, in retaliation, he sailed to Olowalu and lured a large group of Hawaiian villagers to his ship under the pretense of trading with them.

Instead of a trade, he ordered his men to fire every cannon and gun at the Hawaiian villagers, murdering more than 100 men, women and children. This tragic event, one of the first contacts between Westerners and Maui islanders, is remembered as the Olowalu Massacre.

Pies & Butterflies

An island-renowned pie shop – and butterflies

Word for the wise: it’s best to wear your stretchy pants. Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop, a welcoming roadside bakery and lunch spot, might very well be the most recommended restaurant on the island. The diet-busters at this simple-but-stylish spot include savory pot pies, toppings-laden burgers and rich sandwiches such as the ‘pork, pork…mmm pork.’ Make sure and also save room for one of the mini dessert pies – those gorgeous creations vying for your attention at the front counter. Tasty flavors include banana cream and Olowalu lime. Kids’ menu items are $7.

After a hefty lunch, stretch your legs (and work off some of those pies) just steps away at the Maui Butterfly Farm, where tours discuss the importance of butterflies inside a small butterfly flight house (tours $38). Located at the 15-mile marker on the Honoapiʻilani Hwy.

OLAWALU’S MAIN SIGHTS

Olawalu Petroglyphs

Scan 100 or so rock carvings etched into the basalt cliff near Olowalu General Store.

Olowalu Beach

Don your snorkels and look for green turtles and manta ray along the ‘Mother Reef,’ at mile marker 14.

Maui Butterfly Farm

Feed butterflies and learn how to help protect them on a 45-minute tour of this lovely farm.

Glamp, Camp & Kayak

Outdoor adventures at Camp Olowalu

Doing nothing but sitting on the porch in front of your canvas tent and watching the chickens strut by is surprisingly satisfying at Camp Olowalu. Sunsets and stargazing are also top notch at this coastal campground, known for its posh canvas ‘tentalows.’ These cozy numbers, which come with cots, sinks, hot water and showers, line a picturesque lawn dotted with fruit trees and native plants. Car camping is also permitted at designated spots. For budget travelers, this place is one of the best deals going in West Maui, with WiFi and complimentary morning coffee available. Note that the tents can get warm if there is no breeze, and you may hear some traffic on the highway.

Once you’ve had your fill of sunsets, stargazing and chicken-watching, prepare to find your sea legs: explore the Olowalu coastline and snorkel the famed coral reef – a top destination for snorkeling – with Kayak Olowalu, who launch hours-long guided kayak trips from the beach at Camp Olowalu.

Between mile markers 11 and 12 on the Honoapiʻilani Hwy is Pāpalaua Wayside Park, a county park squeezed between the road and the ocean. It’s lackluster, but it does have BBQ grills, toilets and tent camping. A camping permit is required and must be purchased (cash only) in person at one of the Department of Parks and Recreation’s permit offices. For non-residents, the price is $50 per night during the week and $100 per night on weekends. Note that the campground is closed Wednesdays and Thursdays for maintenance. Call the main permit office (808-270-7389) or visit the Maui County website (mauicounty.gov) for details on the cumbersome permit process. Note that the place buzzes all night with traffic noise.

Pāpalaua Wayside Park | 7Michael/Getty Images ©

SURFING WEST MAUI

Dustin Tester, founder and director of Maui Surfer Girls, shares her insights into surfing in Maui. @mauisurfergirls

Best Spots

Ukumehame Beach Park is a longboarder’s dream wave on Maui’s west side. The waves are long, gentle and generally uncrowded. It’s a perfect beginner–intermediate wave, especially when the wind is light and waves consistent. Locals call it ‘Thousand Peaks,’ since the coastline is sprinkled with many ‘peaks’ to surf.

Giving Back

Our surf camp has a service-learning element, where we take our campers to places like Kipuka Olowalu, a nonprofit that is reforesting the valley with native plants.

Refueling

Once Leoda’s reopens, that’s our favorite post-surf-lesson lunch place. They have the best pies and sandwiches on the island.

Where to Watch Whales

The best whale-watching spots

If you’re keen to embark on a spot of whale watching, the best time to see them is during whale-watching season, generally from mid-December to mid-April. A cliffside perch overlooking Maʻalaea Bay, Papawai Point is a favored nursing ground for humpback whales. Pull over in winter to watch them in their element. Also a great spot to catch sunsets, the overlook is 3 miles west of Maʻalaea Harbor, between mile 8 and 9 on the Honoapiʻilani Hwy. You can also look for whales near the western start of the Lahaina Pali Trail, which is accessed just south of the 11-mile marker, on the inland side of the road.

Kaʻanapali

TOP BEACHES | GOLF | WILDLIFE

Kaʻanapali has long been synonymous with celebration. Honeymoons, anniversaries, holidays – this is the place to appreciate the good life. After the Lahaina Wildfire in 2023, however, the glitzy resorts stepped up to house the thousands of Lahaina families displaced by the fire, as well as emergency responders and international aid groups.

As more tourists returned to the resorts for vacations and Christmas holidays, residents were shuffled between hotels, often with very little notice – a stressful situation made worse by tourists arriving in party mode. How it plays out remains to be seen, but most of the hotels have reopened more fully to guests. Tourism is encouraged, but respect is a must.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Kaʻanapali Beach

2   Puʻu Kekaʻa

3   Trilogy Ocean Sports

SIGHTS

see 15   Hawaiian Wildlife Discovery Center

4   Kaʻanapali Beach Walk

5   Kahekili Beach Park

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

6   Hula Girl

7   Kaʻanapali Golf Course

8   Lahaina Civic Center

see 15   Maui Escape Rooms

9   Skyline Hawaii

see 6   Teralani Sailing

SLEEPING

10   Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa

11   Outrigger Kaʻanapali Beach Resort

12   Westin Maui Resort & Spa

EATING

13   Castaway Cafe

see 15   Hula Grill & Barefoot Bar

see 10   Japengo

see 15   Joey’s Kitchen

14   Maui Brewing Co.

see 15   Monkeypod Kitchen

see 7   Roy’s Kaʻanapali

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

see 15   Leilani’s

ENTERTAINMENT

see 11   Hula O Nā Keiki

see 15   Whalers Village Outdoor Cinema

SHOPPING

15   Whalers Village

TRANSPORT

16   Whalers Village Trolley Stop

GETTING AROUND

It takes roughly 50 minutes by road (Hwy 380, Hwy 30 and the Lahaina Bypass) from Kahului International Airport to reach Ka‘anapali. Kapalua is a 15-minute drive, heading north on Hwy 30. Maui Bus departs from the stop at the entrance to Whalers Village on Ret 29 of the West Maui Express, which links to Kahului, Ma‘alaea Harbor Village and Lahaina Cannery Mall. You can explore the Ka‘anapali Resort area on the free Ka‘anapali Trolley.

TOP TIP

The free Kaʻanapali Trolley loops between the Kaʻanapali hotels, Whalers Village, the Fairway Shops and the golf courses, every 30 minutes between 10am and 9:30pm (with lunch and dinner breaks for the driver). The trolley schedule is posted at the Whalers Village Trolley Stop and online (kaanapalitrolley.info).

A Day on Kaʻanapali Beach

Golden sands and a lively oceanfront

The reason you’re here is likely the beach. And festive Kaʻanapali Beach is one of the best on Maui. Scope out a prime spot for sunbathing during a dawn stroll on the Kaʻanapali Beach Walk. This 1-mile path unfurls alongside Kaʻanapali’s resort hotels and links the Sheraton Maui with the Hyatt Regency Maui and Hanakaʻoʻo Beach to the south. Surfers, bodyboarders and parasailers rip across the water; snorkelers admire the sea life; and sailboats pull up on the shore. There are no lifeguards, so check with the beach huts before jumping in: the water conditions vary with the season, and the currents are sometimes strong.

You can rent snorkel gear and beach chairs at the various beach huts, though you’ll pay a premium for the convenience. For the best snorkeling, try the underwater sights off Puʻu Kekaʻa, which is also famed for its daily sunset cliff-diving ceremony. For meals, stop by the food court or settle in at one of the oceanfront restaurants in the Whalers Village shopping area – the latter is highly recommended at sunset.

The Fishing for Housing protest marked 100 days of camping on Kaʻanapali Beach on February 17, 2024. Native Hawaiians can stay on a beach 24/7 if they are actively fishing. The group is pressing Maui’s mayor to use their emergency powers to force certain condo owners to convert their short-term rental properties into longer-term homes for those displaced by the Lahaina Wildfire.

Watch the Sunset Cliff Dive

A nightly nod to ancient Hawaii

Everybody walks north on Kaʻanapali Beach for the torch-lighting and cliff-diving ceremony at Puʻu Kekaʻa, also known as Black Rock. The event, which takes place at sunset, is hosted by Sheraton Maui and is a daily ritual to honor King Kahekili, the last chief of Maui, who demonstrated his strength by cliff diving here. Afterwards, there’s live music at the Sheraton’s Cliff Dive Grill. You can also watch the ceremony, though at a distance, from the porch at the new Maui Brewing Co. digs at the Outrigger Kaʻanapali Beach Resort. By day, the cliffside water at Puʻu Kekaʻa is a popular place to snorkel.

SPIRIT’S LEAP

According to Hawaiian beliefs, Puʻu Kekaʻa, the western-most point of Maui, is a place where the spirits of the dead leap into the unknown, to be carried to their ancestral homeland.

The rock is said to have been created during a scuffle between the demigod Maui and a commoner who questioned Maui’s superiority. Maui chased the man to this point, froze his body into stone, and cast his soul to sea.

They say Chief Kahekili, ruler of Maui and Oahu in the 18th century, was the first person to make the jump, which earned him widespread respect. The height of the rock is around 20ft, but fluctuates based on the tide.

Today, daring teens wait their turn to leap off it.

Soak up Kaʻanapali’s Beachfront Bars

Happy hour, live music and good cheer

Sunsets are gorgeous all along Kaʻanapali Beach, but the golden hour is especially nice at an oceanfront beach bar. At Whalers Village, you’ll find coconut-frond umbrellas, sand beneath your sandals and a guy strumming guitar at Hula Grill & Barefoot Bar, home to the best spot on the beach to sip mai tais and nibble pupu (snacks) in the late afternoon. Open-air Leilani’s next door is another pleasant place to linger over a cool drink and watch the sunset crews return to the beach. There’s also daily live music (3pm to 5pm). Monkeypod Kitchen is perched between Hula Grill and Leilani’s. It serves $12 pizzas and $13 cocktails during happy hour. The sunset cliff dive at Puʻu Kekaʻa is the perfect backdrop for live music at the gleaming, glossy and new Maui Brewing Co., north of Whalers Village.

At the time of publication, the peaceful Fishing for Housing protest was ongoing on the beach near Whalers Village.

WHERE TO EAT IN KA‘ANAPALI

Monkeypod Kitchen

Couples, families and solos crush in early for wood-fired pizzas, succulent burgers and fresh seafood dishes. $$

Japengo

Enjoy sushi, roasted meats and seafood dishes, all with Pacific Rim flair, at the tiki-lit patio bar. $$$

Roy’s Kaʻanapali

Views of the greens are a pleasant backdrop for the exquisitely prepared prix-fixe island and regional fare. $$$

Cruise the Ka‘anapali Coast

Tropical fish, whales and sunsets

Be careful not to over-imbibe on mai tais on a sunset cruise off Ka‘anapali Beach. The bartenders at Whalers Village beach bars, we hear, have a chuckle when tipsy passengers don’t quite nail the landing when disembarking from their catamaran and proceed to stumble toward the shore.

Numerous catamaran excursions sail from Ka‘anapali Beach. Destinations include Olowalu, Molokini and Lanaʻi, depending on the outfitter. Trilogy Ocean Sports runs snorkel trips to all of these sites, as well as to Honolua Bay, where tropical fish and turtles can be seen underwater, and dolphins are occasionally be spied from the boat. Trilogy provides all equipment, plus cinnamon rolls and shōyu chicken for lunch. The bar opens on the return sail to shore.

Hula Girl and Teralani Sailing also run trips. Sunset cocktail cruises are popular year-round, and whale-watching trips run regularly December through March.

Sunset cliff dive, Puʻu Kekaʻa | chrys35/Getty Images ©

TOP ACTIVITIES IN WHALERS VILLAGE

Shopping

This multilevel outdoor mall is home to more than 60 shops selling apparel, home décor and more.

Movie Nights

Watch free, family-friendly movies in the courtyard on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights with Whalers Village Outdoor Cinema.

Hula & Ukulele Classes

Complimentary hula classes (60 min) and ukulele lessons (90 min) are offered once per week.

Multimedia Exhibits

At the Hawaiian Wildlife Discovery Center, visit exhibits spotlighting marine life and conservation, whaling history, and Hawaiian culture.

Escape Rooms

Solve the puzzles, beat the clock and earn bragging rights for escaping at Maui Escape Rooms.

WHERE TO EAT IN KA‘ANAPALI

Joey’s Kitchen

Chef Joey Macadangdang fuses Hawaiian-island flavors with Filipino dishes at this no-frills Whalers Village eatery. $

Castaway Cafe

Breakfast, burgers and fish tacos beside the Beach Walk, north of Puʻu Kekaʻa. $$

Hula Grill & Barefoot Bar

Seafood and steak in the restaurant, and tacos and burgers at the bar. Hula pie at both. $$

Snorkel at Pu‘u Keka‘a

Underwater treasures await

You’ll find the best underwater sights off Pu‘u Keka‘a, or Black Rock, a lava promontory protecting the beach in front of the Sheraton Maui. First-time snorkelers will be happy with the coral, fish and green sea turtles at the protected southern side of Pu‘u Keka‘a, but the highlight is the horseshoe cove cut into the tip of the rock, where there’s more pristine coral, abundant tropical fish and the occasional turtle. There’s often a current to contend with off the point, which can make getting to the cove a little risky, but when it’s calm, you can swim right around into the horseshoe. Pu‘u Kekaʻa is also a popular shore-dive spot. If you want to see what the horseshoe cove looks like, take the short footpath to the top of the rock, where you can peer right down into it.

Be aware that many have drowned while snorkeling at Pu‘u Keka‘a, and there is talk of adding a lifeguard station here.

Zipline with Coastal Views

Swoop down the West Maui Mountains

Have a blast zooming down the wild slopes of the lush West Maui Mountains with Skyline Hawaii on an adrenaline-fueled zipline adventure. The ‘Kaʻanapali 8-Line Adventure’ takes you 2 miles up the wooded cliffsides to platforms and drops of up to 150ft. Free-glide along eight separate lines above waterfalls, stream beds and valleys. Trips run for an exhilarating three hours, and the price is $189.95 per person. Tours are open to anyone 10 years and above, and children 14 and younger must be accompanied by an adult. Reserve online (skylinehawaii.com).

WEST MAUI’S BEST BEACHES

Ka‘anapali Beach

Dubbed ‘Dig-Me Beach’ for all the preening, this is a gorgeous stretch of golden sand.

Kahekili Beach Park

Idyllic golden-sand beach at Kaʻanapali’s less-frequented northern end, with good swimming and snorkeling.

Kapalua Beach

This crescent-shaped strip at the southwestern tip of Kapalua is the safest year-round swimming spot on the coast.

Napili Beach

Shhh…we don’t want the word to get out. Sunbathe, scan for sea turtles and eat breakfast at the Gazebo.

DT Fleming Beach Park

Sandy crescent backed by wild tropical foliage, with lifeguards, restrooms and proximity to the Burger Shack.

Break out the Clubs & Rackets

Golf, tennis and pickleball

There are two golf courses at the Ka‘anapali Resort. Advanced golfers prefer the ‘Royal’ at Kaʻanapali Golf Course, which is the place to practice your precise putting. The greens unfurl beside the sea and into the foothills of the West Maui Mountains. The ‘Kai’, scheduled to reopen to a full 18 holes in June 2024, is shorter and has wonderful views of Lana‘i and Moloka‘i.

Tennis and pickleball players can get their fix at the public courts at the Lahaina Civic Center, between Lahaina and Ka‘anapali on the Honoapi‘ilani Hwy.

WHERE TO STAY IN KA‘ANAPALI

Outrigger Ka‘anapali Beach Resort

Under new ownership, the former Ka‘anapali Beach Hotel still shares warm alohas – but with new décor. $$$

Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa

Fresh from multimillion-dollar renovations, rooms give a nod to the islands with sleek modern style. $$$

Westin Maui Resort & Spa

Kids and the young at heart will love the waterslides and water features at this beachside hotel. $$$

A Rainy Day at the Hawaiian Wildlife Discovery Center

Exhibits on Hawaiian nature and culture

At the hands-on, multimedia Hawaiian Wildlife Discovery Center, kids can turn beach debris into art, learn to identify reef fish, get an up-close look at whaling-era tools and watch videos that spotlight Maui-related environmental and cultural topics. In Whalers Village, the discovery center is a low-key place to take the kids on a rainy morning, or if they’re tired of the beach – it happens. Artwork, whaling artifacts and informative signage keep things interesting for adults, too.

Kapalua & Napili

ENTERTAINMENT | CHIC RESORTS | GOLF

Lush mountain greenery, a wild coast and deep blue waters combine for a strikingly beautiful setting, long been a sacred place for Native Hawaiians. Today, it’s known for the sprawling Kapalua Resort, a former pineapple plantation now home to world-class golf courses, a zipline adventure and glitzy five-star resorts. Has the beauty been marred or enhanced by the development? Depends on whom you ask. The nightlife doesn’t sizzle, but the beaches – all with public access – sure do.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Gazebo

2   Kapalua Plantation Golf Course

3   Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Concert Series

SIGHTS

4   DT Fleming Beach Park

5   Honokahua Burial Site

6   Honolua Bay

7   Kapalua Beach

8   Lanilili Peak

9   Makaluapuna Point

10   Mokuleʻia Beach

11   Nakalele Blowhole

12   Nakalele Point Light Station

13   Napili Beach

14   Natural Ocean Baths

15   Ohai Viewpoint

16   Oneloa Beach

17   Pohaku Kani

18   Turnbull Fine Art

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

19   Honolua Ridge Trail

20   Ironwood Ranch

21   Kapalua Bay Golf Course

22   Kapalua Coastal Trail

23   Kapalua Tennis Garden

24   Kapalua Village Center

25   Kapalua Ziplines

see 24   Mahana Ridge Trail

26   Village Walking Trails

27   Waiheʻe Ridge Trailhead

SLEEPING

28   Hale Napili

29   Montage Kapalua Bay

30   Outrigger Napili Shores

31   Ritz-Carlton Kapalua

EATING

32   AʻA Roots

33   Burger Shack

34   Fish Market Maui

see 34   Honokowai Okazuya

35   Honolua Store

see 32   Joey’s Kitchen Napili

36   Julia’s Best Banana Bread

37   Merriman’s Kapalua

38   Miso Phat Lahaina

see 34   Miss Arepa

39   Sea House Restaurant

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

see 31   Alaloa Lounge

see 32   Coffee Store in Napili

see 37   Point Bar at Merriman’s Kapalua

ENTERTAINMENT

see 31   Kapalua Wine & Food Festival

SHOPPING

40   Karen Lei’s Gallery

GETTING AROUND

It’s easy to reach Kapalua by car via the Honoapiʻilani Hwy. If taking the bus, Rte 29 of the West Maui Express runs from Kahului along the West Maui coast to Kapalua. There are three commuter bus routes in the early morning and afternoon: the Wailuku–Kapalua Commuter, the Makawao–Kapalua Commuter and the Kihei-Kapalua Commuter. Fare is $2 one way. For routes and timetables, visit mauicounty.gov.

TOP TIP

If the public-access parking lots for Napili Bay and neighboring Kapalua Beach are full, and on-street parking is also maxed out, don’t despair. You can pay $10 to park for three hours in the paved lot at the Kapalua Tennis Garden. It’s just a short walk through the trees to the beaches.

Breakfast at the Gazebo

Join the throngs, order the pancakes

Anticipation builds as you stride toward the ocean behind the Napili Shores condo complex at dawn – just how long is the line going to be? Well, if you’re not there by 7am for the 7:30am opening, it’s going to be pretty long! But the anticipation and the wait are all part of the famed breakfast experience at the much-beloved open-air Gazebo – a, you guessed it, gazebo at the beach – with a gorgeous waterfront setting. Diners with a sweet tooth will love the pancakes of white chocolate and macnut. Those in the know order ahead to-go and pick up their meal at the window, but the line can be entertaining with its international array of visitors. Lunch available, too.

Horseback Riding in Napili

Explore a former pineapple plantation

The horses are named after celebrities at Ironwood Ranch in Napili, so you might find yourself climbing into the foothills of the West Maui Mountains on Justin Bieber, with your guide leading the way on David Beckham. Be forewarned: Justin brakes for the sugarcane, which grows tall beside the trail. The ranch’s family-friendly trails twist though a valley lush with mango trees, coffee beans and tropical flora before traversing the grassy fields of a one-time pineapple plantation. Guides are informative about local plants, and they’re great photographers, too – be sure to pose on horseback with views of Lana‘i, Molokaʻi and the ocean as your backdrop. Hour-long and 90-minute tours offered. Guided nature walks and pony rides are also available. As with most guided trips on Maui, tipping is always appreciated.

STROLL THE KAPALUA COASTAL TRAIL

This spectacular 1.7-mile one-way trail passes pristine resorts, beautiful beaches and an ancient burial ground. From 1 DT Fleming Beach Park parking lot, walk east past the Ritz Carlton’s oceanfront 2 Burger Shack towards the resort’s immaculate lawns, garden beds and pickleball courts.

At the top of the hill, there’s an arresting view of the ocean and, in the winter, a chance to spot whales. The 3 Hono-kahua Burial Site to the right dates to 610 CE. You’ll then pass above sacred 4 Makaluapuna Point, known informally by the nickname ‘Dragon’s Teeth’ for its lava-rock spikes.

A slight detour onto the roadside sidewalk leads to 5 Oneloa Beach, where the trail follows a boardwalk adjacent to the beach. It’s flanked with tropical, pink-petaled pohuehue (beach morning-glory) and ʻakia (native Hawaiian shrub) plants, with orange fruits and tiny yellow flowers. Surfers and kiteboarders ride the waves below the luxury condos.

At the end of the beach, the boardwalk turns into a rocky path that leads onto the cliffside. Follow the bridge over the channel at the eastern side of 6 Hawea Point, or explore the impressive razor-sharp lava formations of the point, which jut out to sea. Avoid the edges here, and do not disturb the signposted nesting areas of seabirds. Rejoining the main path, continue past the 7 Montage Kapalua Bay resort beside8 Kapalua Beach.

This crescent-shaped bay is excellent for snorkeling; at the west side of the beach, it’s possible to spot the former Hawaii state fish, the humuhumunukunukuapuaʻa. The path ends with a pedestrian tunnel that leads to restrooms and a public parking lot.

Lazy Beach Days in Kapalua & Napili

Sunbathing, watersports and good food

For a day on the beach, it’s hard to beat Kapalua Beach, a crescent-shaped strip at the southwestern tip of Kapalua. Snorkel in the morning, grab lunch at Sea House Restaurant, try paddle boarding, then sip cocktails at Merriman’s Kapalua. Or gaze across the channel at Molokaʻi. Long rocky outcrops at both ends of the bay make Kapalua Beach the safest year-round swimming spot on this coast. You’ll find snorkeling on the right side of the beach, with abundant tropical fish and orange slate-pencil sea urchins. There’s a rental hut for beach gear too. This is a starting point for the Kapalua Coastal Trail, which ends at DT Fleming Beach Park, a sandy crescent hugged by ironwood trees and backed by an old schoolhouse. This outpost is a favorite of experienced surfers and bodysurfers. Shorebreaks can be brutal and the beach is a hotspot for injuries.

Just south, the golden sands and gentle curve of Napili Beach offer good beachcombing and excellent swimming and snorkeling when it’s calm. Green sea turtles hang out by the rocky southern shore near the ever-popular Gazebo. Big waves occasionally make it into the bay in winter, and when they do, it’s time to break out the skimboards – the steep drop at the beach provides a perfect run into the surf.

There are public-access lots for both beaches, or you can park along the inland side of Lower Honoapiʻilani Rd. There is paid parking at the Kapalua Tennis Garden.

BEST RESTAURANTS IN HONOKOWAI & KAHANA

Honokowai Okazuya

Plate lunches take a delicious gourmet turn at this mostly take-out joint in the 5A Storage Shopping Plaza in Honokowai.

Fish Market Maui

The seafood is locally caught and the fish chowder delicious at this small eatery; also in the 5A Storage Shopping Plaza.

Miss Arepa

The popular arepas – crisp cornmeal cakes stuffed with meat and fillings – are hefty at this new-on-the-scene Venezuelan spot; in the 5A Storage Shopping Plaza.

Miso Phat Lahaina

The crew on the Shiso Phat boat catches fresh fish for this sushi spot in Kahana. Items on the kids’ menu are under $16.

WHERE TO EAT IN NAPILI

AʻA Roots

Fantastic açai, noodle and curry bowls, plus wraps and salads at this stylish vegan cafe. $

Gazebo

Tiny seaside cafe known for its breakfasts. Sweet tooth? Try the chocolate and macnut pancakes. $

Joey’s Kitchen Napili

Chef Joey Macadangdang’s romp across Asia and Hawaii spotlights noodle dishes, local plates and seafood. $$

Hawaiian Slack-key Guitar

The sounds of Hawaii

The vibe is welcoming on Wednesday nights inside the Aloha Pavilion at Napili Kai Beach Resort, when Ledward Kaapana and other top slack-key guitarists take the spotlight at the Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Concert Series. Slack key is a unique Hawaiian fingerstyle, and George Kahumoku Jr, a slack-key legend in his own right, is the weekly host of this acoustic show. As much a jam session as a concert, this is a true Hawaiian cultural gem that’s worth experiencing. Reservations are recommended, but tickets may be available at the door. Shows run from 6:30 until 8:15pm (tickets $40–60).

Zipline down the West Maui Mountains

Soar with Kapalua Ziplines

Hold tight for a jungle adventure with Kapalua Ziplines that will send you flying across the West Maui Mountains on more than 1.5 miles of track. The six-line half-day trip includes two lines that extend a breathtaking 2000ft. All ziplines have a dual track, allowing you to zip beside a friend – but solos are fine, too. Four-line tours are also available. Both tours include an ATV ride and a walk across a 360ft-long suspension bridge – the longest in the state. Look for Lana‘i and Moloka‘i while crossing the span.

In the event of a hurricane, this bridge should be just fine – it’s built to withstand winds of up to 105mph. Children must be at least 10 years of age to take part, and riders between the ages of 10 and 17 must be accompanied by an adult.

THE NAKALELE BLOWHOLE

The Nakalele Blowhole roars when the surf is up, but it’s a sleeper when the seas are calm. To check its mood, park at the boulder-lined pull-off 0.6 miles beyond the 38-mile marker along the Kahekili Hwy. It’s a 15-minute scramble down a jagged moonscape of lava rocks to the blowhole, which can shoot up to 100ft.

Keep a safe distance and walk carefully: a tourist fell into the hole and vanished in 2011; another died after falling from a nearby cliff in 2013; and another visitor was swept out to sea by a large wave and drowned. And it probably goes without saying, but don’t sit on, or peer into, the blowhole.

Kapalua’s Hiking Trails

Topical flora and a mountain climb

Though not well publicized, several hiking trails explore the Kapalua Resort ‘backcountry.’ One group of trails on the resort is known collectively as the Village Walking Trails. These trails intersect as they rise up the mountain slopes, unfurl along a lake and circle an old golf course.

A wilder hiking adventure awaits on two linking trails just west of the Village Walking Trails: the 5.75-mile one-way Mahana Ridge and the 1.25-mile one-way Honolua Ridge Trail. The scenery is stunning along both and includes a spectacular mountain vista, a stand of sugi (Japanese cedar) trees and former coffee and plantation orchards. Unfortunately, the hike is strenuous, and it’s a 20-mile round-trip. Access the Mahana Ridge Trail, which eventually links to the Honolua Ridge Trail, at the Kapalua Village Center. The routing is a bit confusing, so check out the maps at the center and online (kapalua.com/activities/hiking-trails) beforehand. The trails are free to use.

WHERE TO EAT IN KAPALUA

Honolua Store

Porch-wrapped bungalow with a deli known for its terrific plate lunches. Grab-and-go items, too. $

Burger Shack

Oceanfront joint by DT Fleming Beach with gourmet burgers, fun shakes and cocktails under coconut trees. $$

Merriman’s Kapalua

Acclaimed oceanfront restaurant serving Maui-caught fish and locally sourced meats and produce. $$$

Golf Like a Pro in Kapalua

Challenging courses with gorgeous scenery

Kapalua Golf manages two of the island’s top championship golf courses, both certified by Audubon International as sanctuaries for native plants and animals. The Kapalua Bay Golf Course is the tropical ocean course, meandering across a lava peninsula, with tall palms and staggering views of the Pacific. The highlight is hole 5, which plays over the turquoise Maui ocean.

The challenging Kapalua Plantation Golf Course sweeps over a rugged landscape of hills and deep gorges. Golf aficionados may have seen it on the PGA Tour, which starts here each January. Pro swingers who have played the course include Tiger Woods, Vijay Singh, Justin Leonard and Ernie Els. Book your tee time online (golfatkapalua.com). There is a 30-day booking window.

Nakalele Blowhole | Darrell Gulin/Getty Images ©

SACRED SPOTS IN KAPALUA

There are two sights along the Kapalua Coastal Trail that are sacred to Native Hawaiians. Below the Kapalua Bay Golf Course, razor-sharp spikes crown rocky Makaluapuna Point, nicknamed ‘Dragon’s Teeth.’ The 3ft-high spikes are the work of pounding winter waves that have ripped into the lava rock, leaving the pointy ‘teeth’ behind. Do not walk onto the formation out of respect for native customs.

At the adjacent 13-acre Honokahua Burial Site, which dates to 610 CE, an estimated 2000 Hawaiians have been laid to rest. The site is covered with well-maintained grass and flanked by a native hau hedge. Hawaiians believe that their ancestors’ spirits protect these lands – please respect the signage and do not enter.

WHERE TO STAY IN NAPILI & KAPALUA

Outrigger Napili Shores

Condo units have full kitchens and beachy furnishings. Staff are accommodating, and the Gazebo is on-site. $$

Hale Napili

This small and personable condo complex will win you over with its island hospitality and neat-as-a-pin units. $$$

Ritz-Carlton Kapalua

Understated elegance attracts exclusive golfers to this luxe northern outpost overlooking the greens and the sea. $$$

Hike the Glorious Waiheʻe Ridge Trail

Wander off the beaten path

For jaw-dropping views over the lush carpets of Waihe‘e Gorge, cascading waterfalls, tropical forests and a bird’s-eye view of Wailuku and Maui’s northern coast, it doesn’t get much better than the Waihe‘e Ridge Trail. This round-trip hike of 5 miles will take roughly three hours: it’s a fairly steady climb to the 2563ft summit of Lanilili Peak, but it’s not strenuous, and there are intervals of flat terrain throughout. Suitable for solo walkers, fit seniors and active kids.

To get to the trailhead, take the one-lane paved road that starts on the inland side of the Kahekili Hwy, just south of the 7-mile marker. Drive about 1 mile to find parking (open 7am to 7pm). Begin your walk by climbing a sheer concrete ramp, passing blue water tanks on the right. The initial path is a bit steep and can get boggy. Starting at an elevation of 1000ft, it’s already possible to spy the vast ocean.

The trail climbs a ridge, passing from shaded woodland areas of ancient undergrowth to open pastures near the summit. Guava and eucalyptus are prominent, as well as the aroma of fallen fruit after rainstorms. From the 0.75-mile post, panoramic views open up, with a scene that sweeps clear down to the ocean along the gorge.

Continuing on, you’ll enter an an ‘ohi‘a lehua forest; look out for butterflies and native birds. A clearing offers a bench with a view of Makamaka‘ole Falls. On the ridge, views are similar to those you’d see from a helicopter – and you’ll probably see a handful of them in the adjacent valley.

The trail ends with a series of sharp bends and a steep climb to a picnic table on the summit. You’ll be rewarded with staggering views, and clear skies; it’s possible to see Haleakalā. If it’s foggy, wait 10 minutes or so; it may blow off.

It’s best to bring good walking shoes to tackle mud, stones and exposed tree roots. Remember to brush off your shoes at the start and end of your hike to reduce the risk of carrying invasive species. It’s best to set off before 8am to beat the heat and the clouds, and be prepared to walk back down the mountain afterwards.

A SACRED BELLSTONE

Pohaku Kani is a big, basalt boulder sitting inland of the Kahekili Hwy, near the Natural Ocean Baths, just before mile marker 16 on the Kahekili Hwy.

According to local history, the boulder is a bellstone. If you hit it with a rock on the Kahakuloa side, where the deepest indentations are, you might be able to get a hollow sound.

However, past signage – which is sometimes there and sometimes not – has asked visitors not to hit, rub or throw things at the rock. So however tempted you may be to whack it with something, please refrain and be respectful, as the bellstone is sacred to Native Hawaiians.

Surf & Snorkel at Mokuleʻia Beach & Honolua Bay

World-class water activities

Together, Mokuleʻia Beach and Honolua Bay form the Honolua–Mokuleʻia Bay Marine Life Conservation District. Mokuleʻia is excellent for snorkeling, and it’s a top-rated bodysurfing spot in summer. Its attractive white-sand crescent is good for sunbathing and beachcombing, too, with glittering green olivine crystals in the rocks at the southern end. Just north of the 32-mile marker, there’s public parking and a concrete stairway to the beach.

Neighboring Honolua Bay faces northwest and, when it catches the winter swells, has some of the gnarliest surfing in the world. A snorkeling favorite, the bay is also home to thriving reefs and abundant coral along its rocky edges. Read the signage about protecting the coral, then enter via the rocky coastline (and avoid the slippery, potentially hazardous concrete boat ramp). A half-mile past the 32-mile marker is a very small car park, or continue around a couple of bends and park beside the port-o-johns and follow the path.

WHERE TO DRINK IN NAPILI & KAPALUA

Coffee Store in Napili

The ice-blended mocha is nothing less than aloha in a cup. Utterly delicious.

Point Bar at Merriman’s Kapalua

Between Kapalua and Napili Bays, this tiki- and palm-dotted bar is perfect for sunsets.

Alaloa Lounge

A Native Hawaiian welcome precedes the sunset at this Ritz-Carlton lounge. Avoid the shishito peppers.

Turtles, Honolua Bay | La_Moraine/Shutterstock ©

ROAD TRIP

CRUISING THE KAHEKILI HIGHWAY

Bring your hat, water, sunscreen and scrambling shoes on this challenging 25- to 30-mile road trip, which hugs the rugged northern tip of Maui. The route is generally driven east from Kapalua, kicking off after mile marker 34 near Punalau Beach, where Honoapiʻilani Hwy/Route 30 turns into the Kahekili Hwy. It charges around hairpin turns, careens over one-lane bridges and hugs treacherous cliffs before finishing in Wailuku. It’s one of Maui’s most adventurous drives.

1 Nakalele Point

At the 38-mile marker, a mile-long trail leads to the Nakalele Point Light Station, home to a coastline of arches and other formations. Several intersecting paths lead toward the light station. Drive 0.6 miles to glimpse the Nakalele Blowhole, which roars when the surf is up. Keep a safe distance and watch your footing. Don’t leave valuables in your car.

The Drive: Look for the Ohai Trail, a 1.2-mile loop with coastal views, and the Ohai Viewpoint, located 0.8 miles after the 40-mile marker. After milepost 42, the mile markers change, with mile marker 16 being the next one, and the numbers descending from here.

2 Ocean Baths

One-tenth of a mile before the 16-mile marker, look seaward for a large dirt pull-off. A well-beaten path drops down lava cliffs to natural ocean baths on the water’s edge. Cut out of slippery lava rock and encrusted with olivine minerals, these incredibly clear pools sit in the midst of roaring surf. Signage states that visitors should not proceed, listing the hazardous conditions and past fatalities.

The Drive: Continue 1.5 miles to the village of Kahakuloa. Take it slow when driving the tight turns into town. On some drives in Maui, it’s customary for drivers to honk to announce their presence when approaching a tight turn. Kahakuloa residents ask that you don’t honk, as the sound reverberates through the town.

3 Kahakuloa

An imposing 636ft-tall volcanic dome guards Kahakuloa Bay. This photogenic landmark, known as Kahakuloa Head, was believed to be a favorite cliff-diving spot of Chief Kahekili in the 18th century. Before the road drops into the valley, there’s a pull-off providing a bird’s-eye view. Tucked at the bottom of a lush valley and embraced by towering sea cliffs, Kahakuloa retains a solidly Hawaiian character. Stop for ʻono (delicious) banana bread at Julia’s Best Banana Bread.

The Drive: After Julia’s, the road then makes a heart-stoppingly narrow climb.

Kahakuloa Head and Bay | Peter Unger/Getty Images ©

4 Karen Lei’s Gallery

Near the midpoint of the Kahekili Hwy at mile marker 14, Karen Lei’s Gallery sells works by talented island artists, with watercolors, jewelry, native-fiber baskets, koa-wood boxes, vintage postcards and more.

The Drive: Continue for 10 miles.

5 Turnbull Fine Art

Artist Bruce Turnbull turned his mountainside home into a studio and small sculpture garden: Turnbull Fine Art. Inside, view the working studio and purchase works by local artists in the gallery.

The Drive: Continue to the 7-mile mark where you can hike the Waihe‘e Ridge Trail.

ʻIao Valley & Central Maui

MAUI’S CULTURAL AND COMMERCIAL HEARTBEAT

Central Maui is home to local eats and vibrant street art. Come here for a glimpse of the community’s past and future.

CHRYS35/GETTY IMAGES ©

Visitors often pass right through the wind-swept isthmus of Central Maui, heading directly for the beaches of the south or west shores. For good reason, of course, as Maui’s beaches are world class. But to skip over Central Maui is to miss out on the reawakening arts district and historical treasures of Wailuku, the culturally important valleys and streams, and the multigenerational mom-and-pop businesses that you won’t find anywhere else.

It’s also Maui’s most arable piece of land, and was once known for its fields of waving sugarcane.

Nature lovers can choose from challenging hikes or coastal strolls, or take a windsurfing lesson (or just watch the pros from shore) at Kanaha Beach Park. Learn about the annual humpback migration on a cruise from Maʻalaea or at the Maui Ocean Center, or spot native birds and plants at Kealia Pond. Take in one of the many cultural events at the Maui Arts and Cultural Center (MACC) or the historic ʻIao Theater, or shop for souvenirs at the weekly Maui Swap Meet.

Foodies can mingle with the locals at the best food trucks and poke (cubed raw fish) counters in town, fuel up with locally roasted coffee, slurp some noodles, sample the many delicious combinations of a plate lunch, have pupu (snacks) and drinks at pau hana (‘stop-work’ time) and just relax – now you’re on Hawaiian time!

Wailuku | Jacob Boomsma/Getty Images ©

The Main Areas

WAILUKU

Historic town, colorful street-art.

KAHULUI

Local shops, multicultural eats.

Find Your Way

Central Maui is all about convenience. Base yourself in Wailuku or Kahului to drive further afield, to shop and dine where the locals do, and for easy access to the airport.

Plan Your Time

Central Maui invites you to visit at your own pace. Sure, you could just stop for ʻIao Valley and local eats, but you’ll be rewarded if you explore a bit deeper.

Kepaniwai Park & Heritage Gardens, ʻIao Valley | Vacclav/Getty Images ©

Pressed for Time

Wander around Wailuku Town and admire the vibrant murals, followed by a coffee and shopping at the local boutiques around North Market St. Pick up some poke at Kaohu Store and have a picnic at the Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens in ʻIao Valley that are free to enter. Grab some pupu at Tiffany’s Bar & Grill.

Extra Days to Explore

Spend your mornings at museums like Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey House and the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum to learn about the layers of migration that influenced the island, its people and its food. Enjoy a hike or picnic at ʻIao Valley, a sunset whale watch in Maʻalaea Bay or a walk along the coastal trail at Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge.

Seasonal Highlights

SPRING

There may be more travelers during the spring break in March. Late spring is less crowded.

SUMMER

Summers are packed with sun and activity. See the Ki Hoʻalu Slack Key Guitar Festival at the MACC.

AUTUMN

The Nā Mele O Maui song competition and the Made in Maui festival are popular.

WINTER

Native Hawaiians enjoy a time of rest during the rainy Makahiki season. Humpback whales and visitors arrive on Maui.

Wailuku

FASCINATING HISTORY | FOODIE HEAVEN | STREET ART

If you’re looking to condense the history of Maui into just one area, Wailuku is the place to go. One of Maui’s most significant battles took place in ʻIao Valley and was pivotal in the unification of the Hawaiian Islands.

Artifacts from both pre-Western contact and the missionary era have been carefully preserved and presented at Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey House. Walking through Wailuku town, you’ll appreciate the juxtaposition of historic buildings, architectural styles and churches alongside Maui’s present seat of government and commerce. Throughout this area, you’ll see signs of a new movement to bring life (and visitors) back to this small town with a big heart. Local and international artists have completed many beautiful outdoor murals, and the areas radiating off North Market St are full of locals’ favorite spots to eat, drink and shop.

Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey House | B. David Cathell/Alamy Stock Photo ©

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Kaohu Store

SIGHTS

2   Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey House

EATING

3   Four Sisters Bakery

4   Ichiban Okazuya

5   Sam Sato’s

6   Shikeda Bento Patisserie

7   SixtyTwo MarcKet

8   Stillwell’s Bakery & Cafe

9   Tamura’s Market

10   Tasty Crust

11   Wailuku Coffee Co.

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

12   Tiffany’s Bar & Grill

GETTING AROUND

Central Wailuku Town is clustered around a few main streets, from High at the top to about Central at the bottom, with much of the action being on Market St, between Main and Vineyard. Get here by rideshare or the Maui Bus. If driving, you can use the Wailuku Parking Structure (only partially open at the time of publication).

The streets are laid out on a slope coming down from ʻIao Valley, but it’s unlikely you’ll be walking directly up, and you can always start at the top if necessary.

Take your time to enjoy the stroll and the street art.

TOP TIP

Wailuku is a place where that small-town feeling has persisted throughout the passage of time. Some of the best insider tips can come from talking story with shopkeepers and fellow customers.

A Primer on Hawaiian History

Rare collections unveil layers of history

If you visit only one museum in Central Maui, make it Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey House, and try to visit early in your stay. Here, docent-led tours will help to add context on your walk through history – starting with priceless artifacts from the time of the aliʻi (Hawaiian chiefs). The museum sits on the road to ʻIao Valley, so this is a perfect stop before hiking through the site of the Battle of Kepaniwai. Exhibits from the later missionary period and the time of the Hawaiian monarchy can provide context for walks through the churches and architecture of Wailuku town. The museum is only open from 10am to 2pm Tuesdays through Fridays, so give yourself an hour or so to stop either before ʻIao Valley or on your way back. Don’t miss a walk around the grounds of the house, including the Keoni Room (the oldest Western structure on Maui) and the canoe house, which holds a surfboard belonging to legendary waterman Duke Kahanamoku.

START YOUR DAY RIGHT

SixtyTwo MarcKet

The seasonal and local menu rotates every 62 days at Chef Marc McDowell’s popular brunch stop.

Stillwell’s Bakery & Cafe

Just below the bridge to Wailuku town, fuel up with a breakfast, or get the famous cream horns to go.

Wailuku Coffee Co.

Locally run and community focused, you can’t miss this spot on North Market St for fresh-roasted coffee and healthy menu items.

Tasty Crust

Going strong since 1957: pancakes, loco mocos and other diner classics.

Four Sisters Bakery

Go early for butter rolls, malasadas and other sweet treats.

Order Poke like a Local

Where to get the real deal

Poke is a traditional Hawaiian dish that has gained legions of fans across the globe, but international variations often stray quite far from the original. Some of the best options on the island can be found in Central Maui. In Kahului, try Oki’s Seafood Corner, a counter within Kahului’s Foodland grocery store (next to Queen Kaahumanu Center). In Wailuku, Kaohu Store has small batches that sell out early, with some of the freshest fish and a variety of local limu (seaweed). Tamura’s Market in Wailuku also has a large selection of classic styles along with a few twists, like tofu poke.

TOP SIGHT

ʻIao Valley

Take in the lush greenery and peaceful stream of the ʻIao Valley while reflecting on the centuries of history in this wahi pana (sacred place). The valley is a former burial place of aliʻi and an important battleground when Kamehameha I sought to unite the Hawaiian Islands under one leader. A short hike takes you to the Kūkaʻemoku (ʻIao Needle) viewpoint.

ʻIao Valley | Pierre Leclerc/Shutterstock ©

Scan this QR code to book a timed entry slot (required).

Battle of Kepaniwai

Kamehameha used modern weapons seized from foreigners in the battle of Kepaniwai, which was against the son of Maui’s King Kahekili, in 1790. He would succeed a few years later at conquering the other islands, taking the name Kamehameha the Great – the first leader of a unified Hawaiian Island chain. Kepaniwai means ‘Damming of the Waters’; the battle was so bloody that corpses littered the stream and blocked its flow. Enjoy the lush tropical greenery of the valley and the peaceful grounds of the park, but please be mindful that this is also a site of great importance to kamaʻaina (‘children of the land,’ or local residents) because of its connection to na aliʻi. A lot of heaviness, pain and reverence are felt when visiting this place.

DON’T MISS

Kūkaʻemoku (ʻIao Needle)

Lookout Point (Bridge)

Lookout Point (Valley)

Ethnobotanical Loop Trail

Historical Landmark Sign

Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens

ʻIao Stream

Kūkaʻemoku Lookout Point

While it’s possible to visit ʻIao Valley and hike the easy 133 steps of the trail to the lookout point for Kūkaʻemoku (the 1200ft-tall ʻIao Needle), it’s best not to rush. Take a moment to breathe in the clean air of the valley and watch the shadows of the clouds as they pass over the ridges of the mountains. Take a look at both sides of the trail as you walk up and down, and appreciate the native plants and animals that you may see along the way.

ʻIao Stream | 7Michael/Getty Images ©

ʻIAO STREAM

The ʻIao Stream that runs through the valley next to Kepaniwai Park is cool and clear, and you may see people sitting on the rocks below or even taking a dip.

However, please note that swimming is not encouraged – even if the sky is clear, it may be raining in the mountains, which can cause flash floods to occur without warning.

Ethnobotanical Loop Trail

Below Kūkaʻemoku, you’ll also find a short paved loop through an ethnobotanical garden with signage for plants like banana, kukui (candlenut tree), sugarcane, ti and taro. ʻIao Valley’s verdant landscape receives more than 386in of rain annually.

TOP TIPS

• Regardless of the weather forecast, bring a windbreaker or light raincoat as rain showers are frequent. Sunscreen and insect repellent are also advised.

• The Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens are not only a gorgeous place to take a stroll, they’re also a great place to learn about the various ethnic groups that came here to work on the sugar plantations.

• Parking and entrance fees are only required for the ʻIao Valley State Monument. Leave some time to park and stop by the Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens for free before or after your hike.

Kepaniwai Park & Heritage Gardens

After you finish your hike, stop in the Kepaniwai Park & Heritage Gardens to walk through homes that represent the various ethnic groups who have settled on Maui: a Japanese teahouse with shoji screens and koi ponds, a Hawaiian thatched roof hut and loʻi kalo (taro patch), and a Portuguese courtyard with a beautiful tiled fountain and bread oven. You’ll also find gardens dedicated to Chinese, Korean, Filipino, Puerto Rican, New England and African American immigrants. Photography lovers will enjoy the many details and lush green backdrop.

The eight covered pavilions and uncovered picnic tables of the park are a favorite spot on the weekends, when you’ll see local barbecues, family picnics and birthday parties. It can get a bit crowded, so visit on a weekday afternoon for a quieter experience. Be sure to bring some takeout from one of Central Maui’s local eateries on your way here and, of course, clean up your rubbish when leaving.

WANDER THROUGH WAILUKU TOWN

Start this walking tour after a late morning visit to Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey House or on a walk through Wailuku town to pick up some snacks for a picnic at ʻIao Valley. Download the Hoʻokamaʻāina app (mauimuseum.org) for more themed walking tours in the area.

Begin at the top of Wailuku town at the 1 Wailuku Public Library, the first library on Maui, designed by local architect CW Dickey. Across the street are the main government buildings, bustling with people taking care of business. Next you’ll pass 2 Kaʻahumanu Church with its white steeple and clock, named after Queen Kaʻahumanu, a champion of Christianity in the early 19th century.

Next, head downhill on Main St, noticing all the public art on your way. One favorite is 3 Return to the Source. As with all of the murals that you’ll see in Wailuku Town, there’s a QR code and small sign to give you more details about which Hawaiian proverb the artist has interpreted for their work – it’s all part of the ‘Small Town, Big Art’ initiative.

Turn left onto North Market St, lined with small, locally owned galleries and shops. Give yourself time to slow town and talk story with the shopkeepers you meet – many of these places have been here for decades.

On the right you’ll pass the historic 4 ʻIao Theater, opened in 1928 and built in the Spanish Mission style; it’s now home to the theater group Maui On Stage. You may also notice planters of native plants, such as taro, from the district of Wailuku in this area.

End your introduction to Wailuku town with a cocktail at 5 Esters Fair Prospect.

Beyond Wailuku

Wailuku makes for a good base for day trips to explore the surrounding land and seascapes.

Native Hawaiians divided each island into regions called moku, and you may notice highway signs that indicate when you are crossing into a new moku. Moku ʻO Wailuku (Central Maui) was also sometimes referred to as Na Wai Eha (the Four Waters), due to the four streams and valleys within the moku. Ahupuaʻa land divisions within a moku go from the mountain to the sea, and the diversity of wildlife in Central Maui follows the path that these rivers take to the ocean.

Birdwatchers can explore the coastal boardwalk at Kealia Pond, and ocean lovers can enjoy the annual humpback whale migrations at Maʻalaea Harbor, passing through other ahupuaʻa like Waihee and Waikapu.

GETTING AROUND

The Maui Bus connects the Maui Harbor shops at Maʻalaea with Lahaina via the West Maui Express, and Kihei via the Kihei Villager. Service depends on the route, but buses operate hourly from around 6am to 8pm. Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge is at the 6-mile marker via the Mokulele Hwy, where there’s a small car park next to the boardwalk.

These places can be easily visited on the way to the west or south sides of the island.

Maui Ocean Center TIME FROM WAILUKU: 15 MINS

Your underwater journey begins here

The aquarium, 3D humpback whale experience and other exhibits at the Maui Ocean Center are both educational and visually stunning. Do note that ticket prices have increased in recent years and now include surge pricing on rainy days, plus an additional charge for parking in the Maʻalaea Triangle lot. The price of admission goes towards conservation efforts, and the center is very active in the community, including with Lahaina Strong. You may want to visit in the late afternoon if you’d like to avoid the morning crowds.

You can also visit the gift shop and restaurants on site without purchasing admission. Follow their social media accounts for unique offerings like Aquari-Om yoga classes, special events and conservation information.

Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge TIME FROM WAILUKU: 20 MINS

A birdwatcher’s oasis

In October 2023, the water in the Kealia Pond turned a bright pink, making international headlines. In spite of the halobacterial bloom – the culprit in the striking color change – Kealia is an important stop for bird lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. Located between Kihei and Maʻalaea, it’s also an easy stop on a drive between the two points. The coastal boardwalk is beautiful in the morning, with informative signs along the accessible path, and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to observe some of Hawaii’s wetland birds, including the endangered aeʻo (Hawaiian stilt) and ʻalae keʻokeʻo (Hawaiian coot). Migratory birds also arrive between August and April. The visitor center is open Monday through Friday; it’s off Maui Veterans Hwy on the road between Kihei and Kahului, where you’ll also see the Native Plant Pollinator Garden.

Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge | RASimon/Getty Images ©

BEST LOCAL EATS IN WAILUKU

Sam Sato’s

Get the famous dry mein (noodles) and a teri (teriyaki) stick, plus some manjū (Japanese cakes filled with sweet bean paste) for later. $

Ichiban Okazuya

Order a combo plate to try different lunch mains, plus extra sides. $

Tiffany’s Bar & Grill

Chef Sheldon Simeon is the newest owner of this local hangout. Great for drinks and pupu. $$

Kaohu Store

The freshest local fish and daily specials like limu (edible seaweed) poke and pohole (fiddlehead fern) salad. Takeout only; call ahead to reserve. $

Shikeda Bento Patisserie

Onigiri (Japanese rice balls) and bentos that sell out quickly, plus creative desserts. $

Kahului

SUPERB SHOPPING | CULTURAL HIVE | WATER SPORTS

Kahului is the heart of everyday life in Central Maui. The shopping centers here once served as the main social-gathering spots for workers after they moved out of the sugarcane plantation camps and into what was then called Dream City. These days, many of the residential areas of Kahului feature large homes where multigenerational families still live together on the same streets or under the same roof.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Kanaha Beach Park

2   Maui Arts & Cultural Center

3   Oki’s Seafood Corner

EATING

4   Tasaka Guri-Guri

5   Tin Roof

ENTERTAINMENT

see 2   Ki Hoʻalu Slack Key Guitar Festival

see 2   Nā Mele O Maui

SHOPPING

see 7   Camellia Seed Shop

see 4   Longs Drugs

6   Maui Swap Meet

7   Queen Kaʻahumanu Center

see 4   Whole Foods

GETTING AROUND

You’ll find the main hub for the Maui Bus in Queen Kaʻahumanu Center. Routes go to Kahului, up to Wailuku and further afield to Lahaina, Kihei and Upcountry. The airport bus does not accept large suitcases, so consider alternatives unless you’re traveling light. Many hotels in this area offer airport shuttles.

If you’re renting a car, parking is generally easy to find, with the exception of Wailuku during business hours. Rideshare services are popular, and drivers can offer tips on things to do or see during your stay.

TOP TIP

As Kahului is not as walkable as Wailuku, most visitors will run their errands downtown by driving or using rideshare services.

Make a Sherbet Stop at Tasaka Guri Guri

Sweet nostalgia in Maui Mall

The number one reason to stop by the Maui Mall is the beloved Tasaka Guri Guri (pronounced ‘goodie goodie’), where you can buy strawberry or pineapple sherbet, a nostalgic treat sold by the Tasaka family since the plantation days of the early 20th century. Their bright pink wall outside is highly Instagrammable, too.

Many of the other small shops around the mall are worth a wander, and the large Whole Foods and Longs Drugs both have made-in-Hawaii sections that are good for picking up local souvenirs on your way to the airport.

Quirky Shops at the Queen Kaʻahumanu Center

A transport hub and outdoor mall

By the time tourism stepped in to replace agriculture as Maui’s dominant industry in the 1960s, Central Maui had been transformed yet again. City planners drew up the ‘Dream City’ development around Kahului Harbor, with wide tracts of residential housing for workers from the sugar plantation camps as they became homeowners and entered the middle class. Shopping malls along Kaʻahumanu Ave, like Kahului Shopping Center, Maui Mall and later, Queen Kaʻahumanu Center, became lively gathering places for the community.

Today, in contrast to the big box stores on Dairy Rd with more tourist traffic passing through, you may still find a few local shops worth a visit in Queen Kaʻahumanu Center, among the increasingly empty storefronts. Don’t miss the family-run Camellia Seed Shop, which has been in business since the mall opened in 1972, selling local specialty treats like li hing mui (pickled plum), dried mango, lemon peel and other snacks. There’s also an outpost of the Friends of the Library bookstore, which sells used books (including Hawaiiana), and a new cat cafe run by the Maui Humane Society, which has been helping lovable kitties find forever homes.

AFTER THE FIRES

Kyle Kawakami, owner of Maui Fresh Streatery food truck. @MauiFreshStreatery

‘A lot of chefs lost everything after the fires, yet they were still out there cooking for others until they ran out of food. People often ask: How can we help? The best thing you can do now is to support small bus-inesses by buying local. Be curious and be open. Find balance. If we only concentrate on the dire issues our island is facing, we can feel overwhelmed. It’s nice to give people the chance to escape and take their minds off things.’

Maui’s Weekly Swap Meet

Meaningful souvenirs and food trucks

A great way to get to know Maui is through its small businesses, crafters and entrepreneurs. Visit the Maui Swap Meet early on Saturday mornings for a wide variety of souvenirs – many of them locally made – and a chance to talk story with those who made them. There are often samples of edible food products, too, such as jams and jellies, hot sauces and even balsamic vinegar. There’s very little shade and it can get quite hot, so don’t skimp on sunscreen, and visit early if possible.

You can also order some takeout from one of the food vendors: there’s everything from Filipino dishes, Korean kimbap (sushi roll), plate lunches, Mexican street food and Hula Cookies’ ice-cream sandwiches.

Culture Vulture

Concerts, festivals and art galleries

The Maui Arts and Cultural Center in Kahului, just inland from the harbor, is one of those places that everyone visits at some point – there really is something for everyone. Popular music festivals include the Ki Hoʻalu Slack Key Guitar Festival in June and the Nā Mele O Maui annual song competition in November/December. Other concerts are held year-round. Food festivals draw large crowds, such as the Maui Brewer’s Festival and the Made in Maui Festival, which features local vendors, food trucks and entertainment.

There is also a small art gallery with rotating exhibits, which are free to visit. Be sure to check the box office to find out what’s on during your visit.

Tasaka Guri Guri | Photo by Meredith Narrowe/Getty Images ©

WHY I LOVE KAHULUI

Malia Yoshioka, Lonely Planet writer

‘I’m from Upcountry, and the view from our picture window looked down over the West Maui Mountains, flanked by the sea on both sides.

When I was growing up, the sugar mill was still in operation and you could gauge the wind speed by the direction of the mill smoke.

I attended Maui High School and fondly remember swim practice being a way to cool off on sweltering afternoons. And there’s nothing like two scoops of strawberry guri guri. The sound of the scooper still makes my mouth water.’

Picnic on the Beach

Windsurfers and takeout

One of the things you quickly notice about Central Maui is the wind. Because of the strong trade-wind breezes, Kanaha Beach Park is one of the best spots in the world to watch the pros windsurf and kitesurf. If you’re keen to give it a try, sign up for a lesson. Of course, you can always watch from the sand, or do like the locals do and bring a picnic lunch.

There are two large food truck pods (near Costco on the way), or pick up a kaukau (food) tin from celeb chef Sheldon Simeon’s Tin Roof. It’s usually possible to find open picnic tables in the shade of the ironwood and kiawe trees. A word of caution: don’t arrive too late in the afternoon, and don’t leave any valuables in your rental car.

Beyond Kahului

Learn how sugar shaped the island

In the mid-1800s, sugarcane fields covered the islands, and Maui’s population swelled with the migrant workers who arrived to tend them, hailing from as far as China, Japan, Puerto Rico, Portugal, Korea and the Philippines.

Plantation life thrived until the rise of tourism in the 1960s and the rapid expansion of the Dream City development that became Kahului, which moved families out of the camps. With the closure of Puʻunene’s HC&S Sugar Mill in 2016, the area feels abandoned, but it’s still possible to drive past some of the buildings of the old camp and visit the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum to look back at the legacy of sugar on Maui.

GETTING AROUND

Puʻunene is just a 10-minute drive from Kahului, but be prepared to venture onto dirt roads. Access to the village is by car only.

To see the mill and village turn off Mokulele Hwy (Hwy 311) onto Hansen Rd and take the first right onto Old Puʻunene Ave, continuing past the old Puʻunene Meat Market building (c 1926) and the unmissable mill. Turn left after 0.6 miles, past a little bridge. Just before the pavement ends, turn right and drive behind the old school to reach the bookstore, following the signs marked ‘Books.’

Puʻunene TIME FROM KAHULUI: 10 MINS

Tour the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum

The homespun Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum is worth a quick stop. The exhibits and artifacts here reveal what daily life in the plantation camps was like, while also providing a glimpse into the multicultural workforce who stayed on to make Maui home. Don’t miss the small but well-curated gift shop of Made in Maui products.

One of the most popular exhibits is ‘From Saimin to Shave Ice,’ where you can see how Japanese immigrants influenced the local cuisine. Note that the opening hours are 10am to 2pm from Monday to Thursday, so make it a late-morning stop on the way out to the beach in Kihei. It’s also perfect for a rainy day. A great place to follow up your visit would be to pick up a kaukau tin of local comfort food from Chef Sheldon Simeon’s Tin Roof, forming a delicious connection to the present day.

Unearth treasures in a used bookstore

Book lovers should seek out the beloved Maui Friends of the Library Bookstore. Drive past the old sugar mill and follow the signs that read ‘Books’ until you arrive at the beaten-up little shack. It holds a multitude of treasures for a mere dollar or two, and sometimes they’re even free. Proceeds help to fund literacy programs such as the BookMobile. The store is behind Puʻunene School, near E Camp 5 Rd.

Abandoned sugar mill, Maui | David Whitemyer/Shutterstock ©

LOCAL-STYLE SOUVENIRS: OMIYAGE CULTURE

One example of Hawaii’s multicultural traditions is the practice of bringing omiyage back from a trip. The word is often translated as ‘souvenirs’; it comes from the Japanese tradition of bringing back unique local souvenirs for friends and family. In Hawaii, it’s just one of those things – locals love to bring back edible treats for colleagues, friends and family when traveling interisland.

Even with great local options unique to Maui, like lima bean manjū from Sam Sato’s or even a pint of something nice from Tasaka Guri-Guri (packed with ice), one of the most common omiyage from Maui is Krispy Kreme donuts. It’s located on the way to the airport and it’s the only one in the state – go figure!

Kihei & South Maui

SUNNY DAYS, WIDE BEACHES, WATER SPORTS

Sunsets are a communal affair in South Maui, with small crowds pausing to gaze at the horizon daily. Sometimes there’s even applause.

ʻAhihi-Kinaʻu Natural Area Reserve | Jeremy Christensen/Getty Images ©

Kihei and Wailea, the anchors of South Maui, look a little commercial at first glance – from the strip malls and condominiums of Kihei to the fortress-like resorts and privacy hedges of Wailea. But if you dig deeper, you’ll find an appealing mixed-plate of scenery and adventure beyond the corporate facade, stretching from Kihei to Makena and beyond.

You can snorkel reefs teeming with turtles, surf beginner-friendly waves, paddle an outrigger canoe with a local canoe club and whale-watch from the shore in winter.

And those malls and resorts? They hold an abundance of amazing seafood and Hawaiian restaurants. Mom-and-pop eateries have a neighborhood feel across much of Kihei, while skilled chefs helm celebratory fine-dining restaurants up and down Wailea.

If you’re still not loving the crowds and traffic, there’s always the wild, desolate beauty of ʻAhihi-Kinaʻu Natural Area Reserve and La Pérouse Bay (Keoneʻoʻio Bay), just a few miles south of Makena Beach State Park.

And ah, the beaches of South Maui. They are undeniably glorious. Families take note: many of them have their own lifeguard stations, which bring a level of security. Add reliably sunny weather, and South Maui is pretty darn irresistible.

Sunset, Wailea Beach | Danita Delimont/Shutterstock ©

The Main Areas

KIHEI

Fun beach town.

WAILEA & MAKENA

Resorts, snorkeling and grand beaches.

Find Your Way

South Maui hugs the coast along the base of Haleakalā, stretching for 15 miles. From north to south, the region includes Kihei, Wailea, Makena, ʻAhihi-Kinaʻu Natural Area Reserve and La Pérouse Bay.

Plan Your Time

With beachfront condos galore, Kihei is perfect for a short trip where lazy beach days are the goal. Active travelers are spoiled for choice on land and in ocean in Wailea and Makena.

Kihei Canoe Club | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

Pressed for Time

Join a morning paddle trip with the Kihei Canoe Club, then eat a hearty lunch at Nalu’s South Shore Grill. Stop at Makena State Park to sunbathe at Oneloa Beach and take a photo of this wild strand from the lava-rock promontory. Marvel at the rugged beauty of ʻAhihi-Kinaʻu Natural Area Reserve and La Pérouse Bay.

An Active Weekend

Start in Kihei, paddling with the Kihei Canoe Club, exploring the South Maui Gardens and strolling the Kihei Coastal Trail. Greet the next day on the Wailea Beach Walk, then sunbathe and play in the surf at Wailea Beach. On your last day, snorkel early at ʻAhihi-Kinaʻu Natural Area Reserve, then walk around La Pérouse Bay.

Seasonal Highlights

SPRING

This is the slower shoulder season. Attend a 4th Friday Town Party at Azeka Shopping Center.

SUMMER

This is the busy season in South Maui. On Saturdays, visit a farmers market (mauicountyfarmbureau.org)

AUTUMN

Immerse yourself in Hawaiian culture during the Festival of Alohas at the Four Seasons Maui at Wailea in October.

WINTER

The Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa hosts Nashville musicians for the Maui Songwriters’ Festival.

Kihei

WHALE WATCHING | AMAZING BEACH LIFE | GREAT BAR SCENE

In this bustling beach town, there’s a vibrant sense of community that is downright appealing. The Kihei Canoe Club welcomes visitors with good cheer before their morning paddle trips. Volunteers share information about shorebirds on the Kihei Coastal Trail. And sunsets bring pedestrians to a neighborly stop along the coast. Yes, it’s overrun with strip malls and traffic, but with miles of beaches, loads of affordable accommodation and a variety of dining options, Kihei offers everything you need for an enjoyable beach vacation.

Whale watching is darn good too in winter, and you can often see whales from your condo, while walking along the coast, or at the National Marine Sanctuary. This buzzy seaside town works well for short-trip vacationers seeking reliable sunshine – on average, Kihei is sunny 276 days per year. It’s also home to the island’s busiest bar scene.

Kamaʻole Beach Park III | Bandersnatch/Shutterstock ©

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary Headquarters

2   Kihei Canoe Club

3   South Maui Gardens

SIGHTS

4   Charley Young Beach

5   Kalama Park

6   Kalepolepo Beach Park

7   Kamaʻole Beach Park I

8   Kamaʻole Beach Park II

9   Kamaʻole Beach Park III

10   Keawakapu Beach

see 6   Koʻieʻie Fishpond

11   Trinity Episcopal Church By-the-Sea

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

12   Blue Water Rafting

13   Cove Park

14   Kihei Coastal Trail

15   Maui Wave Riders - Kihei

see 17   Maui Yoga Path

SLEEPING

16   Kihei Surfside Resort

17   Mana Kai Maui

EATING

18   808 Deli

see 3   Blue Door Bakery

19   Café O’Lei

20   Fabiani’s Bakery & Pizza

21   Horhito’s Mobile Taqueria

see 30   Kihei Caffe

22   Kinaʻole Grill

see 3   Kitoko

23   Miso Phat Sushi

24   Nalu’s South Shore Grill

see 24   Nutcharee’s Authentic Thai Food

see 30   Pāʻia Fish Market Southside

25   Sugar Beach Bake Shop

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

26   Akamai Coffee Co.

see 3   Da Green Coffee Bar

see 30   Dog & Duck

27   Kraken Coffee

28   Maui Brewing Co

see 30   South Shore Tiki Lounge

see 30   What Ales You

SHOPPING

29   Azeka Shopping Center

30   Kihei Kalama Village

31   Yee’s Orchard

TRANSPORT

32   Kihei Rent a Car

GETTING AROUND

The easiest way to explore Kihei is by car. Parking along the street and at the beaches is currently free, but plans are afoot to charge non-residents for parking. The family-owned Kihei Rent a Car rents cars and 4WDs to those aged 21 and over, and includes free mileage, with competitive rates.

Maui Bus serves Kihei with two routes operating hourly from around 6am to 8pm. The Kihei Islander connects Kihei with Wailea and Kahului. The Kihei Villager connects with Maʻalaea and primarily serves the northern half of Kihei.

TOP TIP

To zip from one end of Kihei to the other, take the Piʻilani Hwy (Hwy 31). It runs parallel to and bypasses the stop-start traffic of South Kihei Rd.

Canoe the Coast

Paddle an outrigger canoe

Expect warm alohas and an easygoing adventure during an early morning paddle with the Kihei Canoe Club in North Kihei. Every Tuesday and Thursday morning, members of the long-running club (and registered visitors) push out to sea in outrigger canoes for a one-hour paddle – all part of the visitor paddle program.

After a 6:30am check-in on Kenolio Beach, club members will hand you a paddle and provide instruction before circling up for ‘E Ala E’, a traditional Hawaiian chant. As you skim along the coast, paddling in unison (as best you can!) in the club’s distinctive red-and-gold waʻa (canoes), you may spot some whales and green turtles. Club members in each waʻa typically share facts about Hawaiian culture and local marine life. Some trips stop just south, at the historic Koʻieʻie Fishpond, where volunteers discuss ancient fishing practices. After your paddle, stick around for complimentary coffee and snacks on the beach. Reserve your spot on the online calendar at kiheicanoeclub.com. Paddlers must be at least eight years old, and a donation of $40 per person is requested – a fantastic deal. Make sure and stop by Sugar Beach Bake Shop across the street for some post-canoeing sustenance.

WHERE TO EAT IN KIHEI

Café O’Lei

Sophisticated atmosphere, innovative Hawaii regional cuisine, honest prices and excellent service. $$

Fabiani’s Bakery & Pizza

Sparkling Italian pizzeria with gourmet pizzas and seafood pastas. Breakfast pastries, too. $$

Nutcharee’s Authentic Thai Food

Settle in for Nutcharee’s acclaimed noodles and stir-fry dishes, plus many curries. $$

KIHEI’S BEST BEACHES

Keawakapu Beach

This sparkling stretch of sand is a showstopper. It’s a favorite for sunrise yoga, twilight swims and sunsets.

Charley Young Beach

This neighborhood beach is broad, sandy and backed by swaying coconut palms. Snorkel to the north.

Kamaʻole Beach Park I

A golden-sand beach with excellent facilities. Also has accessibility ramps and a wheelchair adapted for use on the sand.

Kamaʻole Beach Park II

This lovely beach has full facilities and lifeguards. Pedestrians on the adjacent city sidewalk pause to watch the sunset here.

Kamaʻole Beach Park III

With good facilities, lifeguards, a playground and shaded picnic tables, Kam III is perfectly family-friendly.

Linger in South Maui Gardens

Food, music and Polynesian culture

A tropical plant nursery and communal garden covering 6 acres, the leafy oasis of South Maui Gardens hosts live music, yoga classes, family movie-nights and hula dinner shows ($104 per person; most Wed 5–7pm) as well as a weekly artisan market (Wed at 9am). The collection of permanent food trucks takes a delicious spin around the globe: take your pick of Thai, Argentinian, Mexican and Indian fare. Favorites include coffee from Da Green Coffee Bar, the grilled Kauai shrimp from Kitoko and organic artisan bread from Blue Door Bakery. You’ll also find burgers and shave ice.

Especially relaxing? Daydreaming to island tunes beneath the tropical foliage during Music in the Garden lunchtime performances (Mon–Sat) while enjoying an iced coffee and pastry. Check the South Maui Gardens calendar (southmauigardens.com/eventscalendar) for times. Note that the gardens are also a good spot for family-friendly activities. Again, check the weekly calendar for details.

Be sure to say hello to George, the resident land tortoise, before you leave; and bring bug spray.

STROLL THE KIHEI COASTAL TRAIL

This short trail (1.2 miles round-trip) meanders along coastal bluffs and is ideal for whale watching and quiet meditation.

Begin on the golden sands of 1 Keawa-kapu Beach. Head north, walking between the coast towards 2 Mana Kai Maui condos – a yoga class is held beside the beach here most mornings. Pass the parking lot and continue to the lava-rock shoreline west of 3 Kihei Surfside Resort. The island of Kahoʻolawe breaks the western horizon. Weathered signage discusses the island’s role as a training spot for ancient Hawaiians, who were skilled long-distance paddlers.

Follow the trail signs north along the coast and keep an eye out for green turtles. Walk north to the 4 Kihei boat ramp and look south to Molokini Crater, used as a practice bombing-target in the 1940s. The trail then unfurls across a 5 coastal bluff with expansive views of the sea. The path here is made of packed gray gravel outlined in white coral.

When the trail was being built, a storm washed hundreds of yards of bleached coral ashore here. The coral was not originally planned for the trail, but volunteers consulted with a Hawaiian kahuna (priest) and were told ancient trails were often outlined in white coral so they could be followed at night. The Hawaiian gods were thanked for the gift of coral, which was then incorporated into the path.

Along the bluff, look for the burrows of ʻuaʻu kani (wedge-tailed shearwaters), ground-nesting seabirds that return to the same sites each spring – it’s fine to observe the burrows, just don’t get too close.

The trail ends beyond the lawn at the southern end of 6 Kamaʻole Beach Park III, a pleasant picnic-spot.

Stretch & Sweat at a Morning Yoga Class

Get centered beside Keawakapu Beach

With waves lapping against the shore and palm trees swaying overhead, Keawakapu Beach is an inspiring spot for some morning yoga with Maui Yoga Path.

Led by Deni Roman – a yoga instructor since 2002 – the class is a gentle hour of supportive instruction, with a focus on balance and spinal alignment, and all skill levels are welcome. Yoga mats, blocks and straps are included in the fee ($28 per class; Mon–Sat 7:30–8:30am), but make sure to bring bug spray – sometimes the beach flies are feisty. Online and in-person Iyengar classes are also offered. Register for classes at mauipathyoga.com.

THE STORY OF DAVID MALO

Historian and scholar David Malo, born about 1793 on the island of Hawaiʻi, was the first Hawaiian ordained to the Christian ministry.

He was also co-author of Hawaii’s first constitution and an early spokesperson for Hawaiian rights. Malo was instrumental in the construction of Kilolani Church, now called the Trinity Episcopal Church by-the-Sea, located in North Kihei. The church was completed in 1852, and while most of Malo’s original church has since been dismantled, a 3ft-high section of the wall still stands beside the palm grove. Pews are lined up inside the coral block and stone walls. It’s really quite beautiful.

Outdoor services are held at 9am on Sunday, and all are welcome.

WHERE TO EAT IN KIHEI

Nalu’s South Shore Grill

Beloved open-air eatery embracing all things Hawaiian, from the decor to the delicious food and warm alohas. $

Pāʻia Fish Market Southside

Order at the counter, then take a seat outside to await exquisitely seasoned local fish. $$

Miso Phat Sushi

Welcoming service and big, fluffy sushi rolls converge for a pleasant experience in North Kihei. $$

Thar She Blows!

Watch for whales and learn their story

During whale-watching season – best from December through March – stop by the visitor center at the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary in North Kihei to scan for humpback whales. The oceanfront deck is a prime viewing spot.

The visitor center itself is a welcoming, one-room hub of information about whales and regional marine life, with a spotlight on the endangered animals found across the sanctuary and the hazards they face. Videos and a children’s area encourage lingering. Learn more about these graceful leviathans on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 10am, during the free ‘40-Ton Humpback Whale’ talk.

If you’re traveling with kids, you might be able to learn about green turtles, and see a few, at Kalepolepo Beach Park and the Koʻieʻie Fishpond next door.

Admire Ancient Ingenuity

Stroll beside Koʻieʻie Fishpond

A fascinating link to ancient Hawaii, Koʻieʻie Fishpond is a circular kuapā, or rock wall, extending into the sea from Kalepolepo Beach, beside the HQ of the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary. Ancient Hawaiians built coastal fishponds to provide a ready source of fish for royal families. The engineering is simple but effective: the rock walls were built to be higher than the highest annual tide. Manufactured mākāhā (sluice gates) in the kuapā allowed small fish to enter the pond from the sea. These fish ate the plentiful vegetation growing in the pond, eventually becoming too fat to swim back through the gates to the ocean.

The pond was constructed more than 400 years ago, and it’s likely that more than 10,000 people helped reconstruct it about 300 years ago. Restoration work is ongoing today, and you may see restoration projects in progress when you visit. Volunteers occasionally share details about the pond, and green sea turtles sometimes rest on the shore behind the whale sanctuary.

There are concerns that organized recreational activities are impacting this culturally significant and delicate site – best to enjoy it with respect.

BEST BAR-MUDA TRIANGLE’S WATERING HOLES

Kihei Kalama Village

Aka the Bar-muda Triangle (or just the Triangle), is a lively place at night, packed with about a half-dozen buzzy watering holes tucked here and there along connected boardwalks. You won’t have ocean views, but you will find plenty of good cheer and a bar for every type of drinker.

South Shore Tiki Lounge

This is the place to kick back with a cocktail in an upbeat beach-shack vibe.

What Ales You

A cozy spot, where the rotating list of craft beers on tap always grabs the spotlight.

Dog & Duck

Head to this welcoming Irish pub for sports on the overhead TVs.

KIHEI’S BEST FOOD TRUCKS

Kinaʻole Grill

Hawaiian-style seafood and meat lunches are the specialties at this tropically bright truck. $$

Kitoko

Pause while exploring South Maui Gardens for Japanese bento, gourmet seafood platters and fine desserts. $$

Horhito’s Mobile Taqueria

The shrimp tacos at this bustling taco truck are little pockets of heaven. $

Surf the Cove

A great spot for beginners

Cove Park is a tiny beach just south of the sprawling Kalama Beach Park. The shallow waters off the coast here work well for beginner surfers, with small waves that break right and left. It can get crowded, and you’ll often see surfers in the water when driving past on South Kihei Rd. The small parking lot is located on Iliʻili Rd. Rent surfboards and sign up for lessons with Maui Wave Riders, located across from the park on South Kihei Rd.

Enjoy a Brewery Tour

Tours and tastings at Maui Brewing Co.

Guided tours of the production facilities at Maui Brewing Co. always end with a beer tasting – as they should! Offered on Saturdays and Sundays (1pm, 2:15pm, 3:30pm), the one-hour tours are a fun and informative activity well suited for a low-key (or rainy) afternoon. The brewery is also home to an enormous open-air restaurant and bar, with an adjacent lanai (porch) and beer garden. There’s live music nightly from 6:30pm, so take your pick of 36 beers, hard seltzers and kombuchas on tap, as well as cocktails and wine by the glass.

The brewery is hunkered inland, more than a mile from the coast, so you won’t have any water views. Views of Haleakalā, however, are impressive.

Maui Brewing Co. | Kent Buckingham/FLICKR/CC BY-NC 2.0 DEED ©

CONDO LIVING & LAHAINA

Condominiums are plentiful in Kihei. Quality is generally good, but decor and amenities vary. You’ll typically have a full kitchen, and a washer and dryer may be in the unit, or tucked somewhere in the complex. Some complexes maintain a front desk that handles bookings, but others are booked via rental agents. Check reservation fees, cleaning fees and cancellation policies.

It should be noted that in early 2024, thousands displaced by the Lahaina Wildfire were still seeking temporary housing, and the owners of short-term rentals were being strongly encouraged to make their condos available for the displaced.

Before booking, you may want to consider the housing situation and whether to opt for a hotel or resort rather than a condo.

WHERE TO DRINK COFFEE IN KIHEI

Da Green Coffee Bar

Delicious coffee drinks served from an oversized food truck in a lovely corner of South Maui Gardens.

Kraken Coffee

They make their ice cubes out of coffee at this friendly drive-thru, with two locations in Kihei.

Akamai Coffee Co.

The coffee is Maui-grown and the digs are a bit posh but you can drive through if you’re not feeling fancy. In North Kihei.

Long, Lazy Beach Days

Sun, sand and sunsets at Kamaʻole Beach

It’s easy to spend the day at Kamaʻole Beach, a stretch of sand having so much fun, it just keeps rolling along, and along, and along. Divided into three sections by rocky points, these popular beaches are known locally as Kam 1, Kam II and Kam III. All three are pretty, golden-sand beaches with full facilities (restrooms, showers, picnic tables, grills) and lifeguards. There’s a volleyball court at Kam I and parking lots at Kam I and III. Kam I and Kam III also have ADA accessibility, and Kam I has a beach wheelchair. For a full list of beach facilities, visit mauicounty.gov.

For an early-morning walk, stroll south from Kam III and link up with the Kihei Coastal Trail, and snorkel in the morning near the rocky points. For lunch, walk to the Kinaʻole Grill food truck, which is typically parked one block from Kam I. If you’re at Kam II, delicious, picnic-ready sandwiches are sold at 808 Deli just north at Rainbow Mall.

Sunsets are superb at all three beaches, but water conditions vary with the weather. Swimming is usually good, and these beaches have sandy bottoms with a fairly steep drop, which tends to create good conditions for bodysurfing, especially in winter.

ʻUaʻu Kani (wedge-tailed shearwaters) | Edmund Lowe Photography/Shutterstock ©

NESTING SEABIRDS

ʻUaʻu Kani (wedge-tailed shearwaters) nest along the Kihei Coastal Trail, atop a bluff north of the Kihei boat ramp. The birds are well adapted to life on the sea and can spend years off the coast, dining on fish and drinking seawater. They are not well suited for inhabited islands, however, where their nests – small burrows in the ground – are easy prey for cats, dogs and mongoose.

The birds arrive in mid-March to build their burrows, and each mating pair produces one egg, which hatches in late summer. The chick will fledge by the end of the year. You can see the fledglings in their burrows along short side trails. It’s okay to observe them, but do not approach.

Savor Classic Meals & Snacks

Malasadas, mangos and loco moco

A handful of restaurants in Kihei hit that sweet spot of atmosphere, food and uniqueness. With the hovering queue and the inquisitive chickens, Kihei Caffe in Kalama Village is not exactly relaxing, but that’s part of its quirky charm. Order at the counter, fill your coffee cup at the thermos, snag a patio table, and watch the breakfast burritos, veggie scrambles and loco moco (white rice topped by a hamburger, fried egg and gravy) flash by.

At Sugar Beach Bake Shop in North Kihei, don’t be fooled by the people talking story out front – they’re not just chatting. They are waiting in line, as we accidentally discovered. Please join it. Then step inside for the best malasadas (Portuguese fried doughnuts) – dare we say – on the island.

Finally, the fruit stand at Yee’s Orchard, just north of Longs Drug on South Kihei Rd, may look nondescript, but this 65-year-old institution sells out-of-this-world mangoes from May through summer. You’ll also find pineapples, bananas and fresh-cut papaya.

BLUE WATER RAFTING

Motorized raft trips with Blue Water Rafting depart from the Kihei boat ramp, traveling south toward La Pérouse Bay and beyond, towards the Molokini Crater.

Wailea & Makena

SUPER WATER SPORTS | SEA LIFE | DREAMY BEACHES

The golden-sand beaches in Wailea are the stuff of daydreams and are famed for their phenomenal swimming, snorkeling, sunbathing and consistently sunny skies. With its tidy golf courses and protective privacy walls, Wailea itself looks like an elite country club. In fact, the Four Seasons Maui at Wailea is so posh, it served as the backdrop for the first season of the HBO drama The White Lotus, which tracked the fictional misfortunes of the staff and its moneyed guests.

Unfurling just south, Makena feels more wild, like a territorial outpost that hasn’t quite been tamed. It’s also a perfect setting for aquatic adventurers who want to escape the crowds, offering primo snorkeling, kayaking and bodysurfing, plus pristine coral, dolphins and loads of sea turtles. The beaches – including Oneloa Beach (Big Beach) in Makena State Park – are magnificent. But enjoy the wild vibe while you can. Ongoing construction of glossy new condo villas is taming the landscape.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Monkeypod Kitchen

2   Oneloa Beach

3   Ulua Beach

SIGHTS

4   Fairmont Kea Lani

5   Keawalaʻi Congregational Church

6   Little Beach

7   Makena Bay

8   Makena State Park

9   Maluʻaka Beach

10   Mōkapu Beach

11   Oneʻuli Beach

12   Polo Beach

13   Wailea Beach

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

see 7   Aloha Kayaks

14   Aqualani Beach & Ocean Recreation

see 7   Hawaii Mermaid Adventures

see 7   Hawaiian Paddle Sports

see 12   Maui Sailing Canoe

15   Snorkel Bob’s Wailea

see 13   Wailea Beach Walk

16   Wailea Emerald & Gold Clubhouse

17   Wailea Old Blue Clubhouse

18   Wailea Tennis Club

SLEEPING

19   Andaz Maui

20   Four Seasons Maui at Wailea

21   Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa

22   Hotel Wailea

EATING

see 20   Ferraro’s

23   Lineage

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

see 16   Gather

24   Mulligan’s on the Blue

see 23   Pint & Cork

TRANSPORT

see 15   Wailea Ike Bus Stop

GETTING AROUND

If you plan to do a lot of sightseeing, rent a car at Kahului International Airport or at one of the Wailea resorts, which may have a rental-car desk and a small fleet on-site. Kihei Rent a Car in nearby Kihei is also a good option.

TOP TIP

Beach-access laws across Hawaii require all oceanfront resorts to provide public access to and parking for their beaches. The beach-access signage in Wailea is very small and discreet, but you will find free public lots close to all of Wailea and Makena’s beaches.

Kicking Back at Monkeypods

Festive alohas, craft libations, great food

Happy hours are crowded but convivial at the ever-popular Monkeypod Kitchen, a venture from chef Peter Merriman, where the staff and your fellow drinkers – not to mention the tropical cocktails and craft beer – keep the alohas real. You solo travelers will be just fine at the bar.

The inventive pub-grub comes with a delicious Hawaiian spin and typically incorporates organic and local ingredients, including Upcountry veggies, and burgers made with beef from Maui Cattle Company. The wood-fired pizzas have great toppings – mmm, those Hamakua wild mushrooms – and are $12 during happy hour (3:30–5pm). Most kids’ menu dishes are under $14.

Snorkeling in Wailea & Makena

Tropical fish and green turtles

Snorkelers are spoiled for choice in South Maui, where lava-rock points and coral reefs attract a variety of tropical fish. Start early for calmer waters – and to beat the crowds. And keep an eye out for those green sea turtles – a regular presence close to shore.

In Wailea, head straight for Ulua Beach, to the south of the point. The coral at the rocky outcrop on the right offers Wailea’s best easy-access snorkeling. Not only is it teeming with brilliant tropical fish, but it’s also one of the best spots for hearing humpbacks sing as they pass offshore. When the surf’s up here, forget snorkeling – go bodysurfing instead. Beach access and parking are just south of the Andaz Maui.

Guided kayaking and snorkeling trips are popular in Makena Bay, where you might spot humpback whales in winter. For an eco-minded trip, book with Aloha Kayaks or Hawaiian Paddle Sports. When the seas are calm, snorkeling is good along the rocks at the southern side of Makena Landing, the busy boat launch. Makena Bay is also good for shore dives; head to the north side of the bay for this.

Maluʻaka Beach – also known as Turtle Beach – is a golden swath of sand popular with snorkelers and kayakers. You may catch a glimpse of the green sea turtles – remember not to touch them – who feed along the coral and often swim within a few feet of snorkelers. Terrific coral is about 100yd out, and the best action is at the southern end of the beach. Come on a calm day – this beach kicks up with a little wind, and when it’s choppy, you won’t see anything.

Construction has been heavy in the area, but parking lots, restrooms and showers can typically be found at both ends of the beach, connected by a paved walking path.

For the best prices, rent snorkel gear at Snorkel Bob’s Wailea. You can also rent from beach huts in front of the resorts.

SECRETS OF BIG & LITTLE BEACHES

In the late 1960s, Oneloa Beach was the site of an alternative-lifestyle encampment nicknamed ‘Hippie Beach.’

The tent city lasted until 1972, when police evicted everyone. But hippies, take heart: the rocky outcrop just north divides Big Beach from Little Beach, where beachgoers take advantage of the cove’s reputation as a nude beach, although signage prohibits nudity.

In recent years, Little Beach gained fame for its Sunday night Sunset Drum Circle, which included fire dancing, some nudity and maybe some weed brownies. The festivities were shut down, and the beach now closes at 4pm on weekends, with a locked gate blocking the path.

Does the Sunset Drum Circle continue elsewhere? You’ll have to check on the coconut wireless.

WHERE TO EAT IN WAILEA

Monkeypod Kitchen

Sip a craft cocktail and dine on gourmet, locally sourced pub-fare at this convivial spot. $$

Lineage

Old-school Hawaiian hos-pitality complements creative Asian–American dishes; in the shops at Wailea mall. $$

Ferraro’s

Breezy, rustic Italian restaurant, perfect for romantic seaside dining; at the Four Seasons. $$

WAILEA BEACH WALK

The Wailea Beach Walk is a 1.3-mile one-way shoreline path that connects Wailea’s beaches and resort hotels. The undulating path winds above jagged lava points and beside sandy shores.

Park at the public lot between Mokapu and Ulua Beaches, south of the Andaz Maui. It starts filling up by 8am. Peek at lovely 1 Mōkapu Beach behind the Andaz, then walk south on the paved path to 2 Ulua Beach, where snorkels bob through the surf near the rocky outcrops. Strolling south, you’ll join pedestrians, joggers and parents pushing strollers.

The Molokini Crater hovers south on the horizon. In winter, the path is a fantastic location for spotting humpback whales. Keep watch for a telescope and interpretive signage beside the path. An elaborate sand structure – recreated weekly – welcomes you to the 3 Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa, a place encapsulating the word ‘exuberance.’ In its open-air lobby, you can admire international art, worth around $35 million. A ‘Tarzan’ pool, slides, waterfalls and a lazy river bring the party back outside.

The next stop, 4 Wailea Beach, is a beauty. Peek inside the lobby at the 5 Four Seasons Maui at Wailea to spot the stylish backdrop for scenes in The White Lotus.

Ahead on Wailea Point, you’ll find the 6 foundations of three Hawaiian hales (house sites) dating to 1300 CE and moved here from a nearby bluff. You might see paddle boarders offshore or hear a guide on an outrigger canoe tour discussing the history of lava flows.

The bluff is a fine spot to watch the sunset, and the walk ends at Polo Beach, in front of the 7 Fairmont Kea Lani.

Explore Makena State Park

Big beach, bare buns and black sand

The crowning glory of Makena State Park is the untouched Oneloa Beach (Big Beach) – arguably the finest on Maui. Oneloa means ‘Long Sand’ in Hawaiian, and those golden sands stretch for the better part of a mile and are as long as they come. The waters here are a beautiful turquoise; when they’re calm, you’ll find kids bodyboarding here, but at other times the shore breaks can be dangerous and suitable only for experienced bodysurfers, who get tossed wildly in the transparent waves. Thankfully, there are lifeguard stations here.

For a sweeping view of the shore, climb the short trail to Puʻu Olaʻi, the rocky cinder hill just north. This lava-rock promontory marks the northern boundary of Oneloa. Smaller and less visible Little Beach (Puʻu Olaʻi Beach) – also part of the state park – is tucked away on the northern side of the hill.

You’ll likely see a steady stream of folks, many with coolers and umbrellas, making a beeline north along Big Beach toward the cinder hill and its trail. As the signs atop the promontory proclaim, nudity is illegal at Little Beach – but from all the bare buns on view, we guess nobody can read. Or they don’t care – enforcement depends on the political whim of the day.

But it’s not just nudists here. Little Beach fronts a sandy cove that usually has a gentle shore break ideal for bodysurfing and bodyboarding. When the surf’s up, you’ll also find plenty of local surfers here. When the water’s calm, snorkeling is good along the rocky point.

Both beaches here are open daily from 5am to 7pm. Puʻu Olaʻi is open 5am–7pm Monday through Friday, but closes at 4pm on Saturday and Sunday.

Take note that there is no drinking water at the park, so bring your own

The turnoff to the main parking area for Makena State Park is a half-mile south of Makena Keonoio Rd. There are portable toilets beside the parking lot. A second parking area lies 440yd to the south. The entrance fee is $5 per person, and there is an additional $10 vehicle fee. Thefts and broken windshields are a possibility, so don’t leave valuables in your car.

A bumpy dirt road leading off Makena Rd, just north of the main parking area, leads to Oneʻuli Beach, a small black-sand beach that’s also part of the state park.

MAUI’S PANIOLO ROOTS

Sitting beneath the slopes of Upcountry’s ʻUlupalakua Ranch, Makena was once a paniolo village, home to Hawaiian cowboys who corralled cattle at Makena Bay and loaded them onto barges bound for Honolulu slaughterhouses.

Cattle arrived on Maui in 1793, when they were gifted to King Kamehameha I by Captain George Vancouver. In the early 1800s, as feral cattle herds became more destructive, Spanish–Mexican cowboys (dubbed paniolo) were recruited to teach Native Hawaiians how to ride horses and tend herds. Cattle ranching soon flourished on the slopes of Haleakalā.

Makena’s paniolo roots are on display at the Keawalaʻi Congregational Church. One of Maui’s earliest missionary churches, it has old tombstones adorned with photographs of paniolo laid to rest.

WHERE TO DRINK IN WAILEA

Pint & Cork

Sleek gastropub with big TVs overlooking the 40ft soapstone bar.

Mulligan’s on the Blue

Rising above the Old Blue golf course, this open-air Irish bar has live entertainment most nights.

Gather

Enjoy $8 happy-hour cocktails and gorgeous sunsets at the clubhouse of the Gold and Emerald golf courses

Watersports in Wailea & Makena

Swimming, snorkeling, sailing

Yes, you can sunbathe like – and maybe near – a celebrity at sparkling Wailea Beach, which fronts the swish Grand Wailea and the ever-classy Four Seasons resorts. But it’s also easy to be active. With paddleboarders, kayakers and kids riding bodyboards, Wailea supplies a full menu of water sports. The beach has a gradual slope that makes it a good swimming spot. When it’s calm, there’s decent snorkeling around the rocky point on the southern end. Most afternoons, there’s a gentle shore break suitable for bodysurfing.

Divers entering the water at Wailea can follow an offshore reef that runs down to Polo Beach. Rent beach gear at the Aqualani Beach & Ocean Recreation hut, in front of the Grand Wailea. At Polo Beach, in front of the nearby Fairmont Kea Lani, you can learn about Native Hawaiian traditions and snorkel beside sea turtles on a two-hour trip aboard a Hawaiian-style outrigger canoe with Maui Sailing Canoe. Tours depart at 8am and 10am and should be booked online in advance.

Play Golf, Tennis & Pickleball

Get competitive on land

There are three championship golf courses in Wailea. The emerald course at Wailea Emerald & Gold Clubhouse is a tropical garden that consistently ranks at the top; the rugged gold course takes advantage of volcanic landscapes; and the blue course at the Wailea Old Blue Clubhouse is marked by an open fairway and challenging greens. For the cheapest fees, tee off in the afternoon, when ‘twilight’ rates are in effect (waileagolf.com; fees: gold & emerald $200–45; blue $175–220).

Nicknamed ‘Wimbledon West,’ the award-winning Wailea Tennis Club (waileatennis.com; daily court fees: $28) has nine Sportsmaster tennis courts and 10 permanent pickleball courts. Lessons are available for both sports. Open-play pickleball is also available here (Mon–Fri 8:30am–11:30am).

PELE’S CURSE

Maui has several black sand beaches, which were formed after larger volcanic rocks – lava, basalt and other dark rocks – eroded. Paʻiloa Beach at Waʻianapapa State Park is probably Maui’s most famous. It is illegal to remove sand, dead coral, coral rubble and rocks – all part of the marine ecosystem – from the shoreline. Shells and beach glass are okay to take.

According to lore, another reason not to remove any rocks is Pele’s Curse. Pele is the goddess of fire and volcanoes, and the creator of the Hawaiian Islands.

Hawaii’s Division of Aquatic Resources receives anonymous packages of returned sand and rocks from those who’ve apparently suffered her retribution after leaving the island with their bounty.

Manifest Your Mermaid Dreams

Swim like Ariel in Makena Bay

Some have not personally felt the mermaid’s call, being middle-aged and with bad knees. Youngsters and the young-at-heart, however, can slip into a mermaid’s tail with Hawaii Mermaid Adventure and learn the thrill of swimming like a mythical sea creature. Instructors also share information about marine conservation. Classes are held at Makena Bay, and photos are included in the price. Hawaii Mermaid Adventures has a strong commitment to sustainable tourism and environmental protection, and the company contributes 1% of its sales to environmental causes as a member of 1% for the Planet.

WHERE TO STAY IN WAILEA

Four Seasons Maui at Wailea

Rooms shine with understated elegance at this impressive getaway, the backdrop for The White Lotus. $$$

Hotel Wailea

Roomy suites at this adults-only Relais & Châteaux hotel gleam with elegant but inviting beach-modern style. $$$

Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa

Upscale joie de vivre alongside impressive fine art and water slides. $$$

Maluʻaka Beach | GlowingEarth/Getty Images ©

Beyond Wailea & Makena

Earth and ocean merge at Keoneʻoʻio Bay with a raw, desolate beauty that borders on eerie.

The drive south from Makena turns adventurous after Makena State Park, continuing for a few narrow miles through the lava flows of ʻAhihi-Kinaʻu Natural Area Reserve before dead-ending at La Pérouse Bay, also known as Keoneʻoʻio Bay.

The reserve is a magnet for snorkelers, and the parking lot near the best snorkeling area – informally known as ‘The Dumps’ – has morphed over the last decade from a bumpy patch of dirt into a paved, fee-charging affair. The site now draws up to 500 snorkelers per day. Evocative of a simpler time, the lava-rock foundations of an ancient Hawaiian village stand beside the bay at the end of the road just south. The Hoapili Trail tracks the lava-bed Kings Highway to a distant beach.

GETTING AROUND

You’ll need a car to travel south of Makena, although some tour companies explore the region.

There is no bus service south of Wailea. From the main entrance to Makena State Park, follow Makena Rd south about one mile to the ʻAhihi Kinaʻu Natural Area Reserve entrance. Drive slowly – the road is narrow, lined with an ever-increasing number of new homes. From the reserve entrance, it is another two miles – much of it through scenic black lava fields – to La Pérouse Bay. The unpaved parking area is bumpy and rough.

ʻAhihi-Kinaʻu Natural Area Reserve TIME FROM WAILEA: 15 MINS

Snorkel with rainbow parrotfish

Maui’s last lava flow probably spilled down to the sea here between 1480 and 1600 CE. Today, the jagged lava coastline and the pristine waters fringing it are recognized as a unique marine habitat, designated the ʻAhihi-Kinaʻu Natural Area Reserve.

Thanks to the prohibition on fishing, the snorkeling is incredible here, but getting increasingly overcrowded. The reserve used to attract few snorkelers, but the secret is out. Arrive before 9am for a parking spot – and solitude. Consider coming for just the scenic drive. If you do snorkel, obey all regulations, wear reef-safe sunscreen and respect the fragile surroundings.

After the entrance sign, you’ll enter the reserve’s Kanahena area. A few snorkelers head to ʻAhihi Cove, the roadside cove 175yd south. Drive 350yd past the cove and look for a large parking lot on the right ($5 non-resident parking fee; credit or debit card only). A roadside path leads from the lot back to ʻAhihi, but this isn’t your best option. Instead, walk to the covered pavilion with the interpretive signage and follow the short Kanahena Trail to a black-sand beach with fantastic coral and clear water, known informally as ‘The Dumps.’

To snorkel, enter the water from the left side, where access is easy and recommended by reserve officials. Snorkel in a northerly direction, and you’ll immediately be over coral gardens teeming with a variety of fish. Huge rainbow parrotfish abound, as well as the occasional turtle and reef shark.

Large sections of the 1238-acre reserve are closed to visitors to protect the fragile environment from tourist wear and tear, and allow development of a long-term protection plan. Visitation in open areas is permitted between 5:30am and 7:30pm.

La Pérouse Bay TIME FROM WAILEA: 21 MINS

Explore an ancient Hawaiian village

At La Pérouse Bay (Keoneʻoʻio Bay), a short walk from the parking lot brings you to a jagged black-lava coast that stretches dramatically into the blue sea. The lava here – which is rough and spiky ‘a‘a lava – lava that flowed during Maui’s last volcano eruption. Initially thought to have occurred in 1790, recent analysis indicates it actually occurred roughly 300 years earlier. Before the blast, the ancient Hawaiian village of Keoneʻoʻio flourished here, and vestiges of it are scattered among the lava patches.

In 1786, French navigator and leader of a scientific expedition across the Pacific, Jean-François de Galaup, Count of La Pérouse, became the first Westerner to land on Maui. As he sailed into the bay, scores of Hawaiian canoes came out to greet him. The La Pérouse Monument is situated at the end of the road, near the entrance to the parking lot.

From the volcanic shoreline, look for pods of spinner dolphins in the bay early in the day. Strong offshore winds and rough waters rule out swimming.

Walk the historic Hoapili Trail

From Keoneʻoʻio, the ancient King’s Trail follows the coastline across jagged lava flows. Wear hiking boots, bring plenty of water, start early and tell someone where you’re going. It’s a dry and exposed area with no water and little vegetation, so it gets hot.

The first part of the trail is along the sandy beach along the bay. Right after the trail emerges onto the lava fields from the kiawe trees, walk inland and turn right onto the King’s Highway as it climbs through rough inland ‘a‘a lava – by mid-morning, you may feel like you’re slowly baking in an Easy-Bake Oven as you trudge over the large, slightly unstable lava rocks under the heating sun. The trail then returns to the coast to an older lava flow at Kanaio Beach. Although the trail continues, it becomes harder to follow. Kanaio Beach is the recommended turn-around point. The round trip to Kanaio Beach is about 4 miles. For more details and a simple map, visit hawaiitrails.hawaii.gov/trails, the state’s trail and access website. There’s also a very basic map at the trailhead along with trail information.

REEF-SAFE SUNSCREEN

Heading into the ocean to snorkel? Check your sunscreen bottle. Or better yet, check the label at the store before buying. Many ingredients are, along with other factors, killing coral reefs.

The damage is caused when the harmful ingredients seep into the coral, damaging their growth and reproduction processes and resulting in bleaching and death.

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide sunscreens are safe to use. As posted by the Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) at ʻAhihi-Kinaʻu Natural Area Reserve, avoid sunscreens with this list of coral-destroying ingredients: oxybenzone, octinozate, avobenzone/avobenzine, homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

For more infor-mation, visit the DLNR website (dlnr.hawaii.gov). You’ll find reef-safe sunscreens at many surf shops and in free dispensers at some beaches.

North Shore & Upcountry

MAUI’S RURAL CHARMER

Swap out the big resorts for small towns and the tour guides for residents, and you have the North Shore: one of Maui’s most laidback destinations.

Shaka (Hawaiian hand greeting) | Jan-Otto/Getty Images ©

From rustic to posh, this part of Maui has it all. You can stroll the beaches and watch professional surfers ride the waves, or you can retreat to the countryside where pianolos (cowboys) raise cattle and the air is cool and crisp. For the full experience, you’ll definitely need your own wheels.

On the coast is the historic fishing village turned surfing magnet of Pāʻia: a colorful gateway to the rest of the North Shore.

This is the kind of place where one moment you’ll see tiny markets on the side of the road and the next you’re passing residents in the back of a truck. If they throw you a shaka (Hawaiian hand greeting), you have to throw one back.

A 30-minute drive up Haleakalā Hwy takes drivers to Kula and its neighboring towns. On the way, drink in the views of the Haleakalā volcano (10,023ft) in its entirety; on a clear day, you can even see the observatories at the summit.

The Upcountry scene is mainly residential, consisting of neighborhoods, grocery stores and schools, interspersed with open fields and ranchland.

This is a big region that requires a lot of pre-planning and research; don’t come here to drive around aimlessly. But if you have a destination in mind, a relaxed journey through the countryside will take you to some unique sights that can’t be experienced anywhere else on Maui.

ʻUlupalakua | Ron Dahlquist/Getty Images ©

The Main Areas

PĀʻIA TOWN

Small coastal town full of hustle and bustle.

KULA

Upcountry paradise: cool, beautiful and open.

Find Your Way

The North Shore and Upcountry are connected by a network of highways and back roads. You’ll almost always have an ocean or mountain view.

Plan Your Time

This part of the island is far from the big resorts; it’s best to stay the night in an Upcountry cottage if you plan on exploring.

Pāʻia Town | Peter Unger/Getty Images ©

Pressed for Time

If you only have one day to explore, start your morning in Upcountry. Go to the Upcountry Farmers Market if it’s a Saturday, otherwise stop in at Kula Country Farms or the Aliʻi Kula Lavender Farm. Later, make the drive out to ʻUlupalakua and eat lunch at the ʻUlupalakua Ranch Store. Next, drive down to the North Shore and explore the shops at Pāʻia until it’s time for dinner.

5 Days to Travel Around

Plan for one full day in Pāʻia Town, with a couple hours at the beach and the rest of your time spent strolling. Plan for another full day exploring the nearby highlights like Jaws and Twin Falls. The other three days are best spent Upcountry. Go hiking on the Waihou Spring Trail, boutique hop in Makawao and learn all about paniolo culture in ʻUlupalakua.

Seasonal Highlights

SPRING

Flowers are in full bloom and the weather is perfect for visiting the botanical gardens and farms.

SUMMER

Spend your days on the beach and in the ocean to beat the heat and humidity.

AUTUMN

Not so different than summer…which is what makes Maui great!

WINTER

The weather can be dynamic in winter; expect everything from rain to humidity to wind.

Pāʻia Town

INSIGHTFUL HISTORY | INDIE SHOPPING | SURFING HEAVEN

You can’t visit the North Shore without a stop in Pāʻia. Not only does the town provide insight into the island’s history, but it’s also a great stop for all sorts of activities – although we’ll admit we’ve got something of a preference for the ones that are centered on food and shopping.

The broad array of indie businesses that line the roads here are unique compared to the fancy but soulless shopping centers near the hotels. And the business owners and workers in town have seen almost every kind of traveler to Maui – you’ll soon find that they’re not afraid to strike up a conversation with anyone.

From spunky hippies enjoying the sand to the roaring waves in the distance, there’s never a dull moment in Pāʻia town. As you dig into your evening meal, you may find that even when it’s not fine dining, the quality ingredients and smiling people make it all a day to remember.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Alice in Hulaland

2   Biasa Rose Boutique

3   Pāʻia Fish Market Restaurant

SIGHTS

4   Maui Dharma Center

5   Pāʻia Bay

6   Pueo Gallery

EATING

7   Café des Amis

8   Choice Health Bar

9   Flatbread Company

see 8   The Boba Bar Paia

10   Tobi’s Shave Ice

11   Ululani’s Shave Ice

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

12   Milagros Food Company

SHOPPING

13   Hi-Tech Surf Sports

14   Mana Foods

TOP TIP

Finding a parking spot can be a challenge, so head straight for the paid lot located behind the shops. If you’re on the Hana Hwy heading north, pass the main intersection, then look for the entrance on the right-hand side.

A Stroll Through Pāʻia Town

Discover layers of history

The start of the road to Hana, a cute plantation village, a surfers’ paradise – whatever you may have heard about Pāʻia, there’s more here than meets the eye. Pāʻia developed into an important North Shore community with the opening of the sugarcane mill here in the 1880s. And as the mill prospered, immigrants from around the world flocked here to work, helping to give the town its unique character. When the mill closed, Pāʻia turned to fishing, and after that came the surfers as tourism took Maui by storm.

Pāʻia is characterized by its T intersection, where the Hana Hwy and Baldwin Ave meet. Although it’s small, Pāʻia has plenty of ways to fill your day. Lining the roads are vibrant shops like Alice in Hulaland, Biasa Rose Boutique, and Hi-Tech Surf Sports, where you can find popular surf brands like Roxy and O’Neill, bohemian chic clothing and Hawaii keepsakes. Apart from shopping, you can also pop into art galleries like Pueo Gallery, as well as the Maui Dharma Center, where you can see a Tibetan Buddhist stupa.

There are also plenty of eating options to choose from, ranging from cultural options like Café des Amis to places that specialize in vegan cuisine, like Choice Health Bar. Many of these restaurants pride themselves on serving organic, locally grown produce and have spearheaded sustainable practices. Mana Foods, a small grocery store in the middle of town, is also known for its local and organic options at the deli and salad bar. For sweet treats, stop by The Boba Bar Paia, Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice or Tobi’s Shave Ice for açai bowls, shave ice, boba and ice cream.

PROTECT PĀʻIA

The side of Pāʻia that people don’t see starts with Native Hawaiian Aunty Mopsy, who has built a reputation of being a voice and an activist for the small community. She is known for challenging outside businesses in order to keep them from ruining the authentic nature of the town and violating the community plan.

‘Do not be silent, but be humble and kind at the same time,’ she said. ‘If you don’t take care of the ʻaina, it will not take care of you.’

Her advice to visitors, other than getting educated, is to have respect when visiting different parts of the island.

EATING IN PĀʻIA: OUR PICKS

Pāʻia Fish Market Restaurant

This restaurant has been at the heart of Pāʻia for decades, serving fresh seafood. $$

Flatbread Company

Come here for locally sourced pizza toppings; it fits right in to the Pāʻia community. $$

Milagros Food Company

Bringing Tex-Mex to the island, Milagros is a great place to grab a casual bite and experience the Pāʻia scene. $$

Beyond Pāʻia

From hiking through jungles to tracking down waterfalls, the outskirts of Pāʻia is where the adventure starts.

Right outside Pāʻia town is one of the world’s most popular windsurfing spots: Hoʻokipa. Favorable year-round conditions lure surfers out past the shore as spectators watch from the overlook.

Driving further from Pāʻia takes you to a handful of historical sites. Jaws is one of the world’s best big-wave surfing spots, and it’s renowned around the world. Access, however, is not easy for visitors. But if you’re on Maui during an international surfing competition, you may be in luck.

Near the start of the Road to Hana is Twin Falls, a classic hike and waterfall experience for many visitors to the island.

TOP TIP

Bring an old-school paper map with you – cell service is spotty in a lot of areas.

Hoʻokipa TIME FROM PĀʻIA: 10 MINS

Revel in a windsurfing mecca

Hoʻokipa Beach Park & Overlook is an iconic stop for those traveling along Maui’s North Shore. It’s a top spot for ocean sports. At one end of the beach is a lookout point with parking, where you can watch professional surfers catch waves. It’s not unusual to catch a surf competition or event here.

Even if you’re not looking to get out on the water, there are plenty of ways to stay occupied. On the beach are a handful of sandy swimming spots and small tide pools. The tide pools are great for seeing ocean life in action, and sometimes turtles can be spotted bobbing in the waves or resting on the shore. Remember to keep a distance from them, however. Getting too close constitutes both a federal and state violation if you disturb them.

As a windsurfing hot spot, it should come as no surprise that the ocean breezes at Hoʻokipa can be strong. In fact, setting up an umbrella and lounging in the sand can be challenging, but don’t let that discourage you from stopping by for a wind-blown look. There are pavilions at the park, but there’s no guarantee that they’ll protect your picnic from blowing away.

Hoʻokipa can get crowded, so many people park at the top off the side of the road and walk down to the beach. However, remember that this is a busy highway – if you plan on parking at the top, make sure you are pulled completely off to the side and watch for oncoming traffic.

THE NORTH SHORE’S BEST BEACHES

HA Baldwin Beach Park

This long stretch of beach has great amenities, including restrooms, showers, picnic tables, lifeguards and parking.

Pāʻia Bay

A short walk from the town, the bay is a great place to check out the surf.

Kuau Cove

This small cove provides the opportunity to explore tide pools and check out some sea creatures.

Peʻahi (Jaws) TIME FROM PĀʻIA: 16 MINS

Watch the pros get swallowed alive

Peʻahi, otherwise known as Jaws, is a renowned big wave on the North Shore. When the conditions are perfect, professional surfers from all over the world drop what they’re doing and catch the next flight to Maui to surf Peʻahi’s famous 30- to 80-foot swells. Peʻahi has been the location of many surf competitions over the years, including Quicksilver’s Big Wave Challenge.

Peʻahi got its nickname ‘Jaws’ in 1975 after three surfers – John Roberson, John Lemus and John Potterick – came here for the first time. The conditions changed abruptly from small swells to dangerous monster waves, so the surfers nicknamed it ‘Jaws,’ after the giant shark who terrorized movie-goers that same year.

Despite the popularity of the spot, getting there is a challenge (and it’s not worth it unless the wave is breaking – check first). The dirt road down to the lookout is narrow, winding and usually muddy. Do not attempt to drive here without a 4WD, especially after it has rained – the road and the lookout will be one giant puddle of mud. Some people park at the top and walk down to the lookout, but the expect a slog through 1½ miles of muddy terrain.

On competition days, the road to the lookout will most likely be closed off, which means that everyone has to park at the top and walk down. Expect lots of traffic and a battle for parking spots. If you’re lucky enough to make it here, make sure you bring a pair of binoculars.

MAMA’S FISH HOUSE

Tucked away in a corner of the island next to a tiny cove is one of the best fine-dining restaurants in the country: Mama’s Fish House.

For decades, Mama’s has been partnering with local farmers and fisherfolk to serve beautifully presented dishes that feature fresh seafood caught daily. When the beachside tiki torches are lit, it’s one of the dreamiest dining settings on Maui.

The restaurant advises that you book a reservation months ahead; reservations open up 18 months in advance! If you’re not enough of a planner to book a table well in advance, then try your luck: you may be able to sneak in a reservation with a last-minute OpenTable alert. Otherwise, you can always give the first-come, first-serve bar seating a shot.

BEST FRUIT ON THE NORTH SHORE

Guavas

Guavas are abundant in rural Maui. If you want to try it, choose one that’s bright yellow.

Lilikoʻi

Lilikoʻi, or passion fruit, grows on vines and is a common ingredient in juices and smoothies.

Dragon Fruit

The distinctive-looking dragon fruit, known for its white flesh, grows on cactus vines; you may see more cactus than fruit.

Twin Falls TIME FROM PĀʻIA: 23 MINS

Hikes and waterfalls

Located on the Hana Hwy, Twin Falls is a great place to stop for a short hike to gorgeous waterfalls, followed by a dip in the cold stream. The parking lot consists of only 55 spots ($10) and is often full here, so plan on arriving early. Near the entrance to the trail is a farmstand where you can buy delicious treats like banana bread, coconut candy and fresh fruit, as well as drinks like smoothies, cold brew coffee and freshly squeezed sugarcane juice. It makes for a great stop on the way to Hana, or a refreshing snack after a long day of hiking and swimming.

Most of the hike is along a dirt path surrounded by lush greenery. It’s a slight incline up to the waterfalls, with a few rocky areas. The lower falls are closest to the parking lot and relatively easy to access. The upper falls are half a mile away, and the trail is often muddy. Either way, bring a bathing suit, as jumping in to the water at the end of the hike is highly recommended.

The trail is located on Wailele Farm’s property. Be respectful of the owner and stay on the path.

On the first Saturday of every month, Twin Falls holds kamaʻaina-exclusive days, when the falls are only open to Hawaii residents. Identification is checked at the entrance. Due to the influx of tourists, Twin Falls is a busy place, and swimming holes fill up quickly. Because of this, many residents haven’t been able to visit Twin Falls in years or even decades. Kamaʻaina days allow them to enjoy a tourist-free day. If you plan to go to Twin Falls, ensure that it is not a kamaʻaina day by checking the website.

Twin Falls | Adam Springer/Shutterstock ©

WHY I LOVE PĀʻIA

Savannah Rose Dagupion, Lonely Planet writer

@savannah.dagupion

‘Pāʻia will always have a special place in my heart, as I lived the first 15 years of my life here. What really characterizes Pāʻia is the eclectic mix of people: descendants from the plantation era, outsiders who came for the surf and hippies who love art and organic food. When walking through, you can see the legacy of each group: the old sugarcane mill standing above the town, surfboards strapped to trucks puttering through the streets and murals telling the tale of the town’s roots as a small fishing village.

Pāʻia has exper-ienced its share of gentrification over the years, but it remains true to its origins. My favorite part of Pāʻia is the residential community, who con-tinue to preserve it from any future colonization.’

TOP TIPS FOR TWIN FALLS

Sunscreen

Ensure your sunscreen is well rubbed in and do not over-apply; the excess will wash off and make the water murky.

Mosquitoes

This part of the island has favorable conditions for mosquitoes, so wear insect repellent.

Shoes

The trail is often muddy; consider wearing water shoes.

Kula

BREATHTAKING VIEWS | OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES | LUSH FORESTS

Kula isn’t at the top of many visitors’ to-see lists, and people tend to drive right through on the way to Haleakalā. But skipping Kula means missing out on all the beautiful forests, scenic views and insights into authentic Maui culture. The area is characterized by cool, refreshing air and lush plant life. The environment and Upcountry weather make it the perfect place for outdoor activities and agriculture, and farmers take advantage of the area’s rich soil, occasional rain and sunny days.

Kula can be tricky to navigate because there is neither a town center nor any major touristy spots. This means that you need a plan before driving up here. But whatever it is you do decide to do, you’ll likely be accompanied by beautiful weather, making the experience totally worth it.

TOP TIP

Mornings in Kula are often chilly, while afternoons can be quite warm, so dress accordingly. Bring a jacket or flannel that you can wear at breakfast and take off at midday.

Kula Country Farms

Produce and animals

Located on the slopes of Haleakalā is Kula Country Farms, a fourth-generation family-operated farm. The owners, the Monden family, have been farming in Kula since the 1940s and continue to produce food for the Maui community to this day.

The farm grows a range of crops, including strawberries, blueberries, onions, pumpkins, asparagus, zucchini, cucumber and more. This is one of the only farms on Maui that partners with the big grocery store chains, including Costco, Safeway and Whole Foods, to sell their produce.

There’s a farm stand here, where you can pick up some of their produce, as well as locally made products from other Maui farms. Selling goods exclusively from Maui County is important.

If you visit, don’t forget to check out the animals. There are free-range goats in a pasture, as well as chickens, a tortoise and ponies. Note that the farm requests that visitors not feed the animals. Depending on the time of year, you may catch a special event; but even on a regular day, there are plenty of places for cute photo opportunities and family-friendly play for kids. One of the best spots is the deck behind the farmstand, which has a breathtaking view of the entire island. The farm is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 4pm.

Aliʻi Kula Lavender Farm | MNStudio/Getty Images ©

CREATIVE AND CRAFTY

Tori Olaitman started working at Kula Country Farms 11 pumpkin patches ago, guiding field trips; since then, she has become an integral part of the farm. Her hardworking, crafty nature also prevails outside the farm at her restaurant (ʻOhana Island Grindz) and her small business (Starstruck Creations). To her, the farm plays an important role in helping the island reduce imports and keeping food prices down.

Her advice to visitors is to gain an understanding of Hawaiian culture.

‘One of the biggest things that we want any visitor to know is how much our culture takes care of our island. If you take care of your island, your island takes care of you. It’s a reciprocal relationship.’

FARM FESTIVITIES

Strawberry U-Pick

Grab a basket and fill it up with hand-picked strawberries from February to June.

Pumpkin Patch

Make like Charlie Brown and head to the great pumpkin patch to nab the perfect autumn gourd.

Kula Country Market

Check out the pop-up market held every third Saturday of the month to support local artisans and vendors.

Aliʻi Kula Lavender Farm

Wake up and smell the lavender

The Aliʻi Kula Lavender Farm is the epitome of beauty and aesthetics. This 13.5-acre farm sits along Haleakalā’s slopes at 4000ft above sea level, and it’s dotted with places to explore. Created by agricultural artist and horticultural master Aliʻi Chang, the farm features neatly grown rows of lavender, beautifully arranged succulents and thoughtfully planted gardens. Everywhere you look, there will be thriving plants.

Follow the well-tended pathways to gazebos, trellises and vista decks that provide stunning views of the ocean and island. You can also visit the gift shop to stock up on all your lavender-scented needs. And of course, don’t forget the famous scones.

A perfect day at the farm goes something like this: Stop at the store to do some shopping and order a scone and a hot drink. Find a seat on the deck to enjoy your fare and the surrounding birdsong.

Once you are done eating and admiring the view, set off for a stroll around the farm. Be sure to take plenty of photos as you wander down pathways that lead to unexpected places. On your way out to the parking lot, look for a small hidden garden with a deck on the left side. It’s secluded from the main path and always fun to check out.

WHY I LOVE THE LAVENDER FARM

Savannah Rose Dagupion, Lonely Planet writer

@savannah.dagupion

‘I vividly remember my trips to the Lavender Farm as a child and how thrilling it was to see nature at work: the bees buzzing from flower to flower, the Jackson’s chameleons scampering across branches and the brilliantly colored plants dancing to and fro in the wind.

As I walked down the pathways, I felt like I was in my own private labyrinth where I could safely explore. Afterward, when we went to the shop, I ordered my own scone, meticulously dressing it with butter and jelly – as if we weren’t going to buy an entire bag of them to take home.

I love the lavender farm because of the nostalgia it evokes and its family-friendly atmosphere.’

BEST PHOTO-OPS AT THE LAVENDER GARDEN

Garden near the Entrance

This secluded, shaded area has a lovely ambiance, and the deck is a great prop.

The Gift Shop

The shop’s deck overlooks the rest of the farm and serves as a good backdrop.

Above the Farm

The open fields are gorgeous next to the parking lot, while the gazebos make for photogenic shots.

Beyond Kula

Kula covers a large swathe of the Upcountry region, connecting small towns that each have their own special features.

The area surrounding Kula is nothing less than the beating heart of the island: produce farms whose ingredients grace the tables of Maui’s favorite restaurants, livestock ranches whose meat is sold in stores everywhere and flower farms whose arrangements adorn the best luaus. Dotting the landscape are stores that have been in the community for upwards of a century and towns that sell handcrafted items unique to the Upcountry area.

In addition to shopping, there are plenty of experiences you won’t find sitting in a Maui resort. Spend the day outside petting goats or sampling the finest vodka and wine. And however far you go, remember to breathe deep and savor the fresh air.

GETTING AROUND

Upcountry Maui is only accessible by car. You’ll most likely be on the Haleakalā and Kula Hwys at some point; expect long stretches of hilly roads that are not suitable for walking or cycling. Even in the Upcountry towns, you’ll need a car to get to certain places.

Maui’s bus system may be great for getting from Point A to Point B, but once you arrive, you’ll be stranded.

TOP TIP

Roads are narrow and winding up here; remember to share the road and watch out for cyclists.

Upcountry Farmers Market TIME FROM KULA: 6 MINS

Go local at the market

If you really want to get to know the Upcountry Maui scene, then head to the Upcountry Farmers Market. Located in the Kulamalu town center in Pukalani, the market is open every Saturday from 7am to 11am. Vendors line either side of two long parking-lot rows, selling a fantastic array of food in addition to all sorts of other items.

The market has been going for decades, but it’s only been in this location since 2010. Some vendors are new, while others seem to have been there since the very beginning. Either way, everyone is extremely polite and willing to answer whatever questions you may have about their products, or Maui in general.

Not only does going to the farmers market immerse you in the local culture and build community connections, but it also helps support small businesses. With money going to local farmers, they can keep growing food for the community, as opposed to residents having to import everything to the island.

The market is also a huge boon for local families. Since the cost of living is so high on Maui, many people sell things at the market as a side hustle. Finally, it’s important to support the local community in a place that has been deeply affected by gentrification and colonization over the years.

If you’re thinking about going to the farmers market, the best thing to do is rise with the sun and go early. Seven in the morning on a Saturday may sound unappealing, but if you get there too late, all the good stuff will be gone.

Maui Goat Yoga TIME FROM KULA: 12 MINS

The island’s cutest companions

Like goats? Then why not try Maui Goat Yoga, where you can do sun salutations alongside these friendly companions. The goat yoga trend has been slowly sweeping the nation, but what makes Maui Goat Yoga unique is its location – it comes with an amazing view of the island, the ocean and the horizon. The session consists of 45 minutes of yoga and 30 minutes of goat happy-hour.

Doing the yoga bit isn’t actually mandatory, and if you prefer, you can sit and snuggle with the goats on your yoga mat instead. During happy hour, have fun with the goats by taking photos, doing yoga poses with them, petting them and feeding them. You can expect little nibbles in return, but all in all, these goats are friendly and enjoy being around people. Book a session online at mauigoatyoga.com.

Upcountry Farmers Market | Sue Salisbury/FLICKR/CC BY 2.0 DEED ©

A TASTE OF MAUI

Every Saturday, 86-year-old Thelma Rupert, known as Aunty Piʻilani to the community, wakes up at 4am to get ready for the Upcountry Farmers Market.

She runs the only Hawaiian-based booth, where she sells the kulolo (a dessert made with taro and coconut), haupia (coconut pudding) and poi she’s been preparing since the Wednesday prior. She’s been doing this for seven years.

Aunty Piʻilani said she enjoys the farmers market because there’s such a diverse crowd of shoppers and vendors. She recommends the market to visitors because it will give them an authentic taste of Maui.

‘Tourists come not just to play in the sand. They want to learn the culture,’ she said. ʻAnd we all here can give them a little bit of Hawaii and Maui and why they’re glad that they came.’

OUR FAVORITE SNACKS AT THE FARMERS MARKET

Maui Cones

Local favorites like mochiko (batter-fried) chicken, panko fish and poke served in a cone or a bento. $

Maui Empanadas

Fresh, organic and locally sourced empanadas named after parts of the island. $

Kimchi Vendor

Unnamed business selling Korean delicacies like mandu (dumplings), kimchi, jun (savory pancakes) and chicken. $

Surfing Goat Dairy TIME FROM KULA: 11 MINS

Maui’s largest dairy

Another interesting goat-themed spot is Surfing Goat Dairy, Maui’s largest commercial dairy. Home to more than 120 milking goats and all the infrastructure needed to produce their popular goat cheese and truffles, Surfing Goat hosts different interactive tours that you can sign up for online (surfinggoatdairy.com). The interactive goat experience allows you to snuggle and play with a kid (baby goat), ranging from zero to three months old. The feeding experience includes bottle-feeding a kid, while the evening chore tour presents the opportunity to milk a goat. There’s also the casual tour, where you can simply check out the farm and its operations.

Grandma’s Coffee House | Derek Brown/Alamy Stock Photo ©

OCEAN VODKA

In the foothills of Haleakalā is Ocean Organic Vodka, an 80-acre organic farm and distillery. Ocean Organic Vodka combines organic sugarcane and ocean mineral water to produce its spirits, and visitors can schedule tastings to try the vodka and mixed drinks.

The distillery also has an outdoor cafe where visitors can sit at picnic tables or on lawn chairs and enjoy the view; and since you’re already here, why not stay for a sunset dinner? The simple cuisine blends perfectly with the scenery and the drinks. Live music plays throughout the night, and the cool Upcountry breeze feels just right.

WHICH ISLAND’S WHICH?

Molokaʻi

Best seen from Lahaina, Molokaʻi is easily recognized as the longest island.

Lanaʻi

In the middle of the other two islands, Lanaʻi has more of a dome shape.

Kahoʻolawe

The smallest of the three, Kahoʻolawe resembles a surfacing whale with a small pointed dorsal fin.

Upcountry’s Mom-and-Pop Stores TIME FROM KULA: 6-10 MINS

Sold with love

Mom-and-pop shops are the heart and soul of Maui. Some have been around for decades, while others have been here for more than a century. Many have kept their original architectural design, and while their signs may be fading and the paint may be chipped, their reputation in the community has held strong. Here are some mom-and-pop shops you can find in Upcountry Maui.

Komoda Store & Bakery is commonly called ‘Komoda’s’ and has been serving the community since 1916. It is known for its pastries, which run out quickly, so if you want to sample a bite, you’ll need to go early. Nicknamed Puk Sup by some, Pukalani Superette, an Upcountry grocery store, sells a variety of items. It has a popular hot bar in the middle of the store where it puts out containers of food made daily. The Morihara Store is the only general store in the greater vicinity, so it’s great if you need something in a pinch. It also sells produce, meat and household items.

Located in a more rural area, Ching Store is a good place to stop for gas and provisions. The Henry Fong General Store is right next door and is a good place to get a glimpse of the region’s historical side. And right next door to Fong Store is Grandma’s Coffee House, a great stop for pastries or a sit-down breakfast. Remember that some stores are cash only.

Casanova Italian Restaurant | Thank You (24 Millions ) views/FLICKR/CC BY 2.0 DEED ©

BEST PLACES TO EAT IN MAKAWAO

Casanova Italian Restaurant

An Italian restaurant in the heart of town with stone-baked kiawe-fired oven pizzas and juicy Maui-raised steaks. $$

Polli’s

Have a cerveza at the small bar or tackle sizzling fajitas in the nearby brown booths at this casual Mexican restaurant. $$

ʻOhana Island Grindz

Bringing local favorites to the Upcountry scene, this restaurant serves breakfast foods, sandwiches and iconic plate lunches like loco moco and roast pork. $

Makawao Public House

A new addition to the Upcountry scene, Makawao Public House serves high-end fish and meat dishes. $$

Satori

A sushi food truck located right in the heart of Makawao town. $$

MOM-AND-POP ESSENTIALS

Komoda Store & Bakery

If you go to Komoda’s, make sure to buy the butter rolls and stick doughnuts. $

Pukalani Superette

Visit the hot bar for some cheap and tasty local food. $

Grandma’s Coffee House

If you’re feeling hungry, order the Bull’s Eye Breakfast – it’s definitely a masterpiece. $

SHOP ’TIL YOU DROP IN MAKAWAO

Dubbed Maka Wow on local T-shirts, this attractive town is a mélange of art haven and paniolo culture, with a twist of New Age hippie thrown in for good measure.

A ranching hub since the 1800s, its false-front buildings and hitching posts look transported from the Old West. Start at the 1 parking lot located behind the shops. Parking is free, and the lot is conveniently located if you plan to do a lot of walking. Head up the steps that take you to the front of the shops, and you’ll end up near 2 VIDA by Sip Me Maui. Start your day off with a drink and a treat in this cafe.

After you’re done, stay on the same side of the road and check out the shops on 3 Baldwin Ave. Classic boutiques include the Dragon’s Den Herbal Shop, Rodeo General Store and Maui Cookie Lady, but there are plenty of other options. Once you’ve hit enough shops, return to the Baldwin and Makawao Ave intersection. Turn right onto Makawao Ave to explore some more; keep following the shops and make your way down until you get to the 4 Makawao Public Library, which opened in 1969. You can go in to check out this historic building, or just admire the exterior.

Carry on along Makawao Ave until you can cross the street to 5 Driftwood. Continue on this side of the road, slowly making your way back to the main intersection. Once you are at the intersection again, decide whether you want to end your day by eating at the 6 Casanova Italian Restaurant or 7 Polli’s, both of which are great options. After your meal, return to the parking lot with your day’s winnings.

ʻUlupalakua TIME FROM KULA: 20 MINS

Rural vibes in cowboy country

Visitors mainly pass through ʻUlupalakua when coming out of Hana on the backside of Haleakalā, but many fail to stop and explore. Although the town is small, it has two spots you don’t want to miss.

Maui Wine is a staple in ʻUlupalakua. They cultivate six grape varietals across 23 acres. Visitors with reservations can experience a full tasting, while those without reservations can walk around the historic property, stop in at their shop and indulge in a quick taste at the bar. In their main building is a room that tells the history of ʻUlupalakua.

ʻUlupalakua Ranch takes up the majority of the surrounding area. Full-time farmers cultivate the land and livestock by perpetuating paniolo practices. In the ʻUlupalakua Ranch Store, they have ranch and cowboy merchandise as well as drinks and snacks. Tucked in the back corner is the most unique part of town: the grill. Order a burger made from venison, lamb, elk or beef; the livestock are all grass-fed and raised on the ranch. The grill is only open for lunch, so be sure to to carve out some time in the middle of the day to visit.

THE PANIOLOS

Not many people expect paniolo culture to be big in Hawaii, but in fact it was fundamental to the development of the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi.

In the 19th century, King Kamehameha I introduced cattle to Hawaii as a source of food and transportation. However, he needed people to manage the cattle, so he brought in vaqueros, or Mexican cowboys. The vaqueros taught Hawaiians all about cattle, ranching and other skills.

Taking what they learned but adding their own twist, paniolos started their own cowboy culture, which is a blend of Mexican and Hawaiian practices.

Today, paniolo culture still shines in Maui’s ranches and rodeos.

Waihou Spring Trail TIME FROM KULA: 20 MINS

Hike the trail

Drive up past Casanova Italian Restaurant in Makawao, and you’ll end up on Olinda Rd. After a series of twists and turns, the residential area turns into a forest – take care up here, the road is getting increasingly torn up by strong tree roots. Finally, on your right, you’ll see a big dirt area for cars to park and a sign that reads ‘Tree Growth Research Area.’ This is where you’ll find the Waihou Spring Trail.

The trail is a 2-mile out-and-back hike with a loop in the middle, taking you through a beautiful forest. Branch trails lead off the main path, leading to wide-open areas with great views. The Waihou Spring Trail hike is one of the easiest hikes in the Upcountry and definitely worth the visit. It’s sometimes closed due to fallen trees on the road or wildfires, so check first before driving up here.

LOCAL LIVESTOCK

Cattle

The ʻUlupalakua Ranch’s cattle enjoy life from the mountain to the sea. They’re free range and grass-fed.

Sheep

Sheep thrive in the ranch’s cool, lush environment and its steep, rugged terrain.

Elk

The elk were imported to Maui in the 1980s to diversify the ranch, making them unique to Hawaii.

Haleakalā National Park

LUNAR LANDSCAPES, HIKES AND STUNNING VIEWS

Welcome to one of America’s most unique national parks.

Haleakalā silversword | Brad Thompson/Shutterstock ©

To peer into the soul of Maui, climb to the dormant summit of Haleakalā. Here, youʻll find a vast crater, which glows ethereally in the early light of sunrise or the last light of sunset. The crisp wind bites at your nose while you take in the view. And if you’re lucky enough, a Hawaiian chant can be heard bidding the sun a welcome to the new day.

Surrounding you are numerous trails and lookouts that provide breathtaking sights of the moon-like landscape below. The only sign of life, other than visitors, are the delicate silverswords and occasional birds. As you look out to the horizon, all you see is an enchanting shade of blue indicating how high you really are.

The rest of this amazing park, which is divided into two distinct sections, is all about being present on the mountain and among its rare life-forms – many of which are only found here.

You can descend into the alpine desert landscape where the silence is absolutely deafening. You can follow lush trails where native species thrive. You can gaze upon the stark black night sky where the stars are bright as ever, and shooting stars flash across the sky.

For the ultimate adventure, get a permit, bring a tent and camp beneath the moon. The experience will stick with you for a lifetime.

Crater, Haleakalā National Park | Felix Nendzig/Shutterstock ©

The Main Areas

SUMMIT DISTRICT

High-altitude experiences.

KĪPAHULU DISTRICT

The coastal tropics.

Find Your Way

Getting to Haleakalā is half the fun: you’ll either climb 10,000ft into the air to the summit or follow the gorgeous Road to Hana as it snakes along the coast to Kīpahulu.

Plan Your Time

Whether you’re after a quick morning trip to see the sunrise or an all-day hike, Haleakalā has plenty of ways to fill up the day.

ʻOheʻo Gulch | VisualCommunications/Getty Images ©

Pressed for Time

If you only have one day but want to explore the entire Haleakalā region, start with sunrise at the summit. Afterward, head down to Hosmer Grove and hike the short loop trail, where you might spot native birds. It should still be morning, which leaves the perfect amount of time to head to the Kīpahulu District to hike to gorgeous waterfalls along the Pīpīwai Trail.

If You Have a Few Days

On your first day, cruise up to Haleakalā for sunrise. Hike into the crater on the Keoneheʻeheʻe (Sliding Sands) Trail to reach the cabin or campground by nightfall, and relax outside under the stars. On the second day, continue the hike out of the crater. On the third day, go to the Kīpahulu District for the Pīpīwai Trail and the ʻOheʻo Gulch pools along the Kuloa Point Trail.

Seasonal Highlights

SPRING

Great for stargazing, as the sky is usually clear and the nights are cool but not cold.

SUMMER

The perfect weather for camping out or staying in one of the park’s cabins.

AUTUMN

A hiker’s paradise – temperatures aren’t as high and the park is less crowded.

WINTER

Sunrises and sunsets are great year-round, but the crisp fresh air in winter is particularly invigorating.

Summit District

UNIQUE BIRDS | FASCINATING VOLCANO | HIKING PARADISE

Often referred to as the world’s largest dormant volcano, the floor of Haleakalā is a colossal 7.5 miles wide, 2.5 miles long and 3000ft deep – nearly as large as Manhattan. Established before Hawaii even became a state, the winding road (built between 1933 and 1935), with its summit views of sunrise and sunset, has inspired tens of thousands of day-trippers to drive up it, while the diverse collection of trails for all levels is what keeps people coming back. The park is also home to several unique species, including the Haleakalā silversword and the Hawaiian honeycreeper.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Haleakalā Summit Area

2   Hosmer Grove

3   Keoneheʻeheʻe (Sliding Sands) Trail

SIGHTS

4   Leleiwi Overlook

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

5   Halemauʻu Trail

see 1   Pa Kaʻoao

GETTING AROUND

Haleakalā Hwy (Hwy 378) twists and turns for 11 miles from Hwy 377 near Kula up to the park entrance, then another 10 miles to the summit. It’s a good and super-smooth paved road, but it’s steep and winding, often with no barrier and a sheer drop. You don’t want to rush, especially when it’s dark or foggy. Watch out for cattle wandering across the road.

The drive to the summit takes about 1½ hours from Pā‘ia or Kahului, two hours from Kihei and a bit longer from Lahaina. If you need gas, fill up the night before, as there are no services on Haleakalā Hwy.

TOP TIP

Dress warm and pack a hot drink. Wearing multiple layers isn’t a bad idea on the summit. You’re up 10,000ft, so expect it to be cold and windy.

Happy Trails

High-altitude hikes

There’s a trail for every type of hiker in this otherworldly place, from short nature walks ideal for families to hardy two-day treks. Haleakalā’s summit alone has over 30 miles of trails, with varying levels of difficulty and plenty of different sights.

For those who don’t want a rigorous hike but still want to explore and take photos, the 0.4-mile Pā Kaʻoao Trail next to the Haleakalā Visitor Center, is easy-peasy and leads to a great vantage point. It is uphill, so be prepared for the incline.

If you want to descend into the crater, follow the Keoneheʻeheʻe Trail down to the lower-elevation Halemauʻu Trail. While the full experience is a two-day excursion, if you’re just looking for a day hike and you’re in decent physical shape, this phenomenal 10.2-mile hike crosses the crater floor, taking in both a cinder desert and a cloud forest, showcasing the park’s amazing diversity. Get an early start. As for getting back to your starting point, there’s a designated place to hitchhike on Haleakalā Hwy, opposite the Halemauʻu Trailhead.

Note that the full Halemauʻu Trail takes you to a viewpoint 1.1 miles from the trailhead; an additional 2 miles descends 1400ft to the crater floor. Be sure to start early, before the afternoon clouds roll in and visibility vanishes.

There are other trails on the way up to the summit that lead to different viewpoints, like Leleiwi Overlook, which is a 0.3-mile round trip. The short trail at Hosmer Grove is a much greener experience, taking you through the forest, where native honeycreepers live.

Spotting Native Birds

Rare and endangered

Haleakalā is home to five birds that can be found nowhere else in the world: the ʻapapane (bright red Hawaiian honey-creeper), the ‘iʻiwi (scarlet Hawaiian honeycreeper), the ʻamakihi (yellow-green honeycreeper), the ʻalauahio (Maui honeycreeper) and the kiwikiu (Maui parrotbill). These honey-creepers are endemic to Hawaii and are very rare: only 500 kiwikiu remain in the wild.

When the first Polynesians arrived in Hawaii, the birds were thriving – like many island species, they had no natural predators. As time went on, however, the introduction of non-native species like pigs, dogs, cats, rats, mongoose and even mosquitoes have had a massive impact on the Hawaiian honeycreeper population.

Development and habitat loss have also threatened these native birds. Another contributing factor to habitat loss is rapid ohia death, brought on by a fungal disease. The ʻohiʻa lehua is a tree endemic to Hawaii, and makes up most of the island chain’s native forests. Many honeycreepers are dependant on ohia to gather nectar or insects.

Haleakalā National Park works to protect both the birds and their habitats in order to save them from extinction. If you’re lucky enough to spot a honeycreeper, cherish the moment – it’s a special sight.

A BIRDING CHECKLIST

ʻApapane

The ‘apapane is predominantly red with black-and-white markings; it has a short black bill.

ʻIʻiwi

The ‘iʻiwi is predominantly red and has black wings and a long orange bill.

ʻAmakihi

The ʻamakihi is a yellow-green color. It’s distinguishable by its ‘bandit mask’ near the eyes and its curved bill.

ʻAlauahio

The ʻalauahio is a yellow-green color, with a straight bill and bright yellow patches on its face and belly.

Kiwikiu

The kiwikiu is green on top and yellow below. It’s distinguishable by its stocky stature, black eye-stripe and curved beak.

ROAD TRIP

Drive to Haleakalā’s Summit

The park entrance is 7000ft above sea level, so if your starting point is close to the ocean, be prepared for the climb. From Central Maui, the drive to the park entrance will take a little less than an hour. From Kihei, prepare to drive for over an hour. And from Kaʻanapali, wake up early: the drive will take over an hour and a half.

1 Entrance Station

At the Entrance Station, you’ll pay for entry (good for three days) at the ranger’s booth.

The Drive: The next left turn will take you to Hosmer Grove.

2 Hosmer Grove

Stop at Hosmer Grove for the ½-mile nature trail. This is a great spot for birdwatching. Drive slowly along the road in, as this is one of the top places to see nene, the rare goose that is also the state bird.

The Drive: Back on the main road, you’ll hit a lot of switchbacks – look for the Halemauʻu Trailhead near one of the hairpin turns.

3 Halemauʻu Trailhead

This trail provides views of the crater walls, lava tubes and cinder cones.

The Drive: It’s 1.1 miles to the first viewpoint.

Haleakalā Observatories | Restricted Flowers/Shutterstock ©

4 Leleiwi Overlook

The next stop is the Leleiwi Overlook (8840ft), an even easier 0.3-mile walk to a jaw-dropping crater viewpoint. Watch the weather form at your feet, as ever-changing clouds float in and out.

The Drive: Another 0.8 miles takes you to the last viewing area.

5 Kalahaku Overlook

From the Kalahaku Overlook (9324ft), you will enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the crater floor.

The Drive: Continue on along the road.

6 Haleakalā Visitor Center

You’ll finally reach the Haleakalā Visitor Center (9740ft), where you can check out the view, learn about Haleakalā’s volcanic origins and explore the trails.

The Drive: Continue on the road past the visitor center parking lot.

7 Haleakalā Observatories

This stretch will take you closer to the true summit and the Haleakalā Observatories. Although you can’t enter, these domed buildings are still impressive. There’s also another viewpoint here.

CRATER HIKE ALONG THE KEONEHEʻEHEʻE TRAIL

You’ll need two days for this 17.8-mile round-trip high-altitude hike along the Keoneheʻeheʻe Trail, which winds down to the crater floor and the Palikū Cabin & Campground (permit needed). Keep in mind that if you do this as an out-and-back hike, the return trip takes nearly twice as long.

Start at the 1 Keoneheʻeheʻe Trailhead in the summit area, near the Haleakalā Visitor Center. After half a mile, you’ll reach the 2 first overlook. Enjoy the unearthly world of stark lava sights and ever-changing clouds, and take in the silence of the crater.

After 4 miles and an elevation drop of 2500ft, the trail intersects with a 3 spur that leads north, connecting to the Halemauʻu Trail (1.6 miles). Continuing on Keoneheʻeheʻe for 2 more miles takes you to the 4 Kapalaoa Cabin.

After another 3 miles, you’ll reach the 5 Palikū Cabin & Campground. Unlike the crater’s barren western end, this area receives heavy rainfall, and ohia forests climb the slopes. If you overnight in the cabin or the campsite, the next day you can either retrace your steps to return to the summit or continue on.

Bear in mind that the next leg involves descending the strenuous Kaupō Trail. Be prepared for ankle-twisting conditions, blistered feet, intense sun, torrential showers and route-finding challenges. Your knees will take a pounding as you descend more than 6100ft. After 3.7 miles on the Kaupō Trail, you’ll reach the 6 park boundary. The rest of the hike is through Kaupō Ranch property. A further 4.9 miles will take you to a dirt road and then it’s another 1.5 miles to the trail’s end at the 7 Kaupō Store.

Sunrise on Haleakalā

Watch the heavens awaken

Haleakalā means ‘House of the Sun.’ So it’s no surprise that since the time of the first Hawaiians, people have been making pilgrimages up Haleakalā to watch the sunrise. It’s an experience that borders on the mystical. Mark Twain called it the ‘sublimest spectacle’ that he had ever seen.

In recent years the number of cars arriving at the Haleakalā Summit Area has often exceeded the number of available parking spaces, leading to severe overcrowding. To escape the hordes, visitors have strayed into the fragile habitats of endangered species, or into dangerous areas. Cars parking outside designated areas also threaten the fragile landscape and could block emergency vehicles.

In January 2016, park officials said that cars exceeding parking spaces occurred 98% of the time, with an average of 600 people on the summit. In 2017, to manage crowds and protect the park, the park service began requiring reservations for those arriving between 3am and 7am (at recreation.gov). You can also catch the sunrise with a commercial tour group.

Plan to arrive at the summit an hour before the actual sunrise, guaranteeing you time to see the world awaken. Around that point, the night sky begins to lighten and turn purple-blue, and the stars fade away. Ethereal silhouettes of the mountain ridges appear. The gentlest colors show up in the fleeting moments just before dawn. The undersides of the clouds lighten first, accenting the night sky with pale slivers and streaks of pink.

About 20 minutes before sunrise, the light intensifies on the horizon in bright oranges and reds. Turn around for a look at the observatories, the domes of which turn a blazing pink. For the grand finale – the moment when the disk of the sun appears – all of Haleakalā takes on a fiery glow.

Remember, come prepared – it’s going to be c-o-l-d! Temperatures hovering around freezing and a biting wind are the norm at dawn, and there’s often frosty ice on the top layer of cinders. If you just can’t get up that early, sunsets at Haleakalā are also exceptional, and favored by locals, who want to avoid the sunrise crowds.

HIKING TIPS

Hiking on Haleakalā requires a slightly different approach than elsewhere on the island. First, the high elevation may cause altitude sickness – especially as you’ll be coming straight from sea level. Don’t be overconfident in your fitness level; remember, the altitude makes everything tougher.

Second, Haleakalā gets cold. Summit temperatures range from below freezing to 65°F, but it’s often windy, which makes it feel even colder. The weather can change quickly, so it’s important to wear sturdy hiking boots and layers, and bring a waterproof shell in case of rain.

Third, the sun is stronger up here. Don’t let the cold temperatures fool you: the thin atmosphere means there are higher UV levels, so wear a hat and slather on that sunscreen.

DON’T FORGET TO

Stay on the Trail

The ecosystem is fragile, especially in the crater, so please stay on the trail.

Drink Water

Haleakalā is an alpine desert. Take a minimum of 2L of water with you – and drink it.

Pack a Picnic

There’s no food or beverages inside the park, so bring your own supplies.

Camping in the Crater

A unique way to experience the outdoors

For one of the most unique overnight experiences in Hawaii, if not the entire US, consider camping in the crater of Haleakalā, or spending the night in one of its three rustic cabins. To spend the night at Haleakalā is to commune with nature. Bring Arctic-worthy camping gear, and know that backcountry camping options are primitive (no electricity or showers).

The Hōlua Cabin & Campground is a 3.7-mile hike (on the Halemauʻu Trail; or a 7.4-mile hike (on the Keoneheʻeheʻe Trail;. The Kapalaoa Cabin is a 7.2-mile (on Halemauʻu) or a 5.6-mile (on Keoneheʻeheʻe) hike; and the Palikū Cabin & Campground is a 10.4-mile (on Halemauʻu) or a 9.3-mile (on Keoneheʻeheʻe) hike.

You’ll find pit toilets and limited non-potable water supplies that are shared with the crater cabins. Water needs to be purified before drinking; conserve it, as the water tanks occasionally run dry. You must pack in all your food and supplies, and pack out all your trash. Also, be aware that during periods of drought, you’ll be required to pack in your own water.

The wilderness cabins are $75 per night; tent camping is $8 per night. Reservations are required for both and must be made online up to six months in advance (recreation.gov), and a printed reservation slip must be carried with you at all times. There are 12 bunks available in the cabins. Alternatively, car camping is available at Hosmer Grove for $5 per night; sites can be reserved one month in advance (recreation.gov).

The summit of Haleakalā is inhospitable – the soil is arid and rocky, the sun is intense and nighttime temperatures drop below freezing. But there is one plant that has adapted: the silversword. Silversword seeds sprout in the dry, rocky soil and grow to become a compact spiky ball. Mist from the cool air gathers on the spikes, which direct the moisture to the roots. The plant retains its shape for years, until one day a tall stalk with flowers shoots up – this indicates the plant is ready to reproduce, after which it will die. The strong alpine wind scatters the seeds across the rocky landscape, where, with just the right amount of water, they start a new life.

Stargazing, Haleakalā | youli zhao/Shutterstock ©

THE NENE GOOSE

The nene goose, Hawaii’s state bird, is the only surviving endemic goose from the Hawaiian Islands. It’s easy to spot, with its medium-sized brown-and-gray body and black bill, face, feathers and legs.

Scientists believe that the nene and the Canada goose have a common ancestor, but isolation resulted in the nene developing certain characteristics that have made it unique.

Like many endemic animals, the nene thrived prior to human contact, but its population began to decline once people settled in the islands. In 1946, the nene was on the brink of extinction, and fewer than three dozen birds survived in the wild on Hawaiʻi (the Big Island).

However, with repopulation and redistribution efforts, the nene have rebounded; there are now hundreds at Haleakalā.

NENE FAST FACTS

Mating

Nene mate for life. They build their nests on the ground under shrubbery and lay two to five eggs per year.

Feeding Habits

Nene graze primarily on leaves, seeds, flowers and fruit.

Goslings

Baby nene are raised by both parents and become fledglings 10 to 12 weeks after hatching.

Stargazing on Haleakalā

Like nowhere else in the world

Stargazing on Haleakalā is a unique experience, especially if you’re coming from sea level. The high elevation often translates into clear skies at night, and the light pollution is minimal, which increases visibility into the cosmos. The park has many places to stargaze, and you don’t need to drive to the top of the summit. For example, on a clear night, Hosmer Grove is a great place to stargaze.

Stargazing doesn’t require too much preparation, but there are a few important things you can do to make your night a little better: Haleakalā can be cold and windy, so dressing warmly is important, especially since you’ll be sitting outside. A puffy hat or beanie, warm socks and shoes, and a blanket will make the evening comfy. Don’t forget to bring snacks and a thermos of hot tea, too. Finally, bring something to sit on, as the ground is often damp from mist and rain.

When driving around Haleakalā at night, proceed with caution. Sharp turns can come up quickly, and sometimes there are no guardrails. Also watch out for wildlife and cows.

STARS IN POLYNESIAN CULTURE

The Polynesians were master navigators and sailors long before Westerners arrived to any of the islands with their own navigational skills. They used the sun, the clouds, the wind and animals to navigate hundreds of miles across the sea. Most importantly, they used the stars.

The early Poly-nesians figured out how to turn the sky into a map, memorizing and analyzing the movements of the stars. One example of this is the Hawaiian star compass, which divides the sky into the quadrants and sections that allowed navigators to chart their courses.

Today, the crew on the Hokuleʻa, the Polynesian double-hulled voyaging canoe, takes ancient Hawaiian voyaging practices and uses them to travel the world.

SILVERSWORD FAST FACTS

Elevation

Haleakalā silverswords grow in the climate zone, between 7000 and 10,000ft in elevation.

Lifespan

Silverswords can live to be an astounding 90 years old.

Size

The plant can reach a diameter of up to 1.5ft; its flower stalk will grow up to 6.5ft.

Kīpahulu District

INCREDIBLE WATERFALLS | FABULOUS POOLS | COASTAL TRAILS

When people think of Haleakalā National Park, they usually think of the summit area. But what many fail to realize is that the park extends down the southeast slopes to the eastern shore of Maui. This area of the park is known as the Kīpahulu District, and was added to Haleakalā National Park in 1951. The crowning glory of Kīpahulu is ʻOheʻo Gulch, with its magnificent waterfalls and wide pools, each one tumbling into the next one below. There are 24 pools in all, extending from the ocean to Waimoku Falls.

Waimoku Falls | Steve Duchesne/Getty Images ©

GETTING AROUND

The Kīpahulu District is on Hwy 31, 10 scenic miles (but at least 30 minutes of driving) south of Hana. There’s no direct road access from here to the rest of Haleakalā National Park. Expect the drive to the summit to take at least two hours.

TOP TIP

Drive carefully when going to Kīpahulu, as the roads are extremely narrow in places. You may need to pull off to the side to let an oncoming car pass you on the opposite side. If you see a local car following you, find the nearest place to pull over and let them pass.

Hike the Pīpīwai Trail

Elevated and energizing

The Pīpīwai Trail is the longest and most rigorous trail in Haleakalā’s Kīpahulu District. That said, this is a fun adventure that’s only 4 miles round trip, with 800ft of elevation change – expect it to take about three hours to complete. It passes through coastal forest, and the climate is often wet, meaning you should expect mud, mosquitoes and humidity.

The trailhead is on the mauka (inland) side; start by crossing the highway. The hike starts off strong, with a direct incline and few flat parts. Sometimes you’ll be walking on dirt; sometimes you’ll be walking up rocks that form natural steps. Half a mile in brings you your first glimpse of the waterfall at Makahiku Falls. This bridal-veil of a waterfall drops into a deep gorge just off to the right. Thick green ferns cover the sides of 200ft basalt cliffs, where the water cascades – it’s a very rewarding scene for such a short walk.

A little further and you’ll reach a clearing with a big banyan tree. This is one of many great photo opportunities here. After a mile, you won’t have to worry about watching your step on rocks and roots because you’ll be at the wonderland of the bamboo forest, where thick groves of bamboo move together musically in the wind. A long stretch of wooden boardwalk will take you through this section.

A few streams, waterfalls and bridges later, you’ll reach the end of the hike and arrive at Waimoku Falls, a thin, lacy 400ft waterfall dropping down a sheer rock face. For your own safety, do not climb up to the falls.

WAIMOKU FALLS

On a sign for Waimoku Falls is an ʻōlelo nōʻeau (Hawaiian proverb) that reads: he wai makamaka ʻole (‘water that recognizes no friend’). This proverb alludes to the power of the water and is a reminder that you should be respectful of it.

Water in the falls is constantly eroding the stone of the cliff face and changing the landscape. Erosion can cause falling rocks, along with other dangers that visitors should be wary of.

The stream can also turn into a flash flood in a matter of minutes. During a flash flood, the water current is so powerful that almost nothing can stand in its way; whatever is in its path will be washed out to sea.

EXPLORING KĪPAHULU ON FOOT

After a long drive – it may only be 55 miles from Kahului, but expect it to take about two hours – you’ll reach the entrance to Haleakalā’s Kīpahulu District, marked by the 1 Entrance Station where you’ll have to pay the entrance fee. If you’ve already bought a parks pass at the Summit District, you can reuse that here.

After you pass the booth, a road on the right-hand side takes you down to the 2 Kīpahulu Campground, which has an incredible setting on oceanside cliffs amid the stone ruins of an ancient Hawaiian village. You’ll need an advance reservation (recreation.gov) to camp here. The waters in the Kīpahulu region once supported a sizable Hawaiian settlement of farmers who cultivated sweet potatoes and taro in terraced gardens beside the stream. Archaeologists have identified the stone remains of more than 700 ancient structures at ʻOheʻo.

Continuing on the main road takes you to the 3 parking lot, with nearby restrooms. The 4 Kīpahulu Visitor Center is your next stop – pop in to read up about the area and buy souvenirs. Follow the walkway past information signs for a splendid view of the ocean.

If you’re planning on hiking the Pīpīwai Trail, the 5 Pīpīwai Trailhead is near the top of the parking lot. If you’re short on time, then take the 6 Kūloa Point Trailhead to the Kūloa Point Trail, which is more accessible. When you hit the ʻOheʻo Gulch overlook, you’ll find a pathway headed toward the ocean that will take you to the 7 Kahakai Trail. The Kahakai Trail runs along the ocean and connects to the campground. After following the rest of the Kūloa Point Trail, you’ll return to the parking lot. Congratulations! You’ve successfully explored Haleakalā’s Kīpahulu District.

A Stroll on the Kūloa Point Trail

Accessible beauty awaits

The Kūloa Point Trail is a relaxing 20-minute loop that’s only a half-mile long, with 80ft of elevation. Most of the trail is gravel, so you don’t have to worry about rough terrain.

The trailhead is just past the Kīpahulu Visitor Center and will take you through a cultural demonstration area with a hale, or house. Because the trail is a loop, you can choose which direction to follow; heading toward the ocean makes for a good trip. Along the way, you’ll pass a lot of hala trees and information panels.

Continue walking and you’ll reach a clearing where you’ll get an amazing view of both a waterfall and the ocean. This is ʻOheʻo Gulch. The large freshwater pools along the trail are terraced one atop the other and connected by gentle cascades. They may look calm, but flash floods have taken several lives here, so the Park Service does not recommend swimming in them.

There is an in-and-out pathway on the makai (ocean) side that will take you to Kūloa Point, which will give you another view of the ocean if you choose to follow it.

Past ʻOheʻo, the trail will take you upward and around through a forested area. Before you know it, you’ll be back in the demonstration area. Although it’s a quick jaunt, this hike provides nice views, photo ops and regional background.

Kūloa Point Trail | Greg Elms/Lonely Planet ©

RESTORING HALA ALONG THE KŪLOA POINT TRAIL

As you walk along the Kūloa Point Trail, you may notice an abundance of tall trees with shaggy-looking leaves. This is the hala tree, which are commonly found in coastal locations and on valley slopes of up to 2000ft in elevation.

In ancient Hawaii, the hala was a particularly useful resource: Hawaiians used it to make canoes, sails, cloth and brushes, among other things. Today, Native Hawaiians still use it in a variety of ways.

In the Kīpahulu District, park staff and volunteers have been working to restore the native landscape, and part of this includes growing hala trees. This is why you’ll notice so many trees at different stages of growth along the Kūloa Point Trail.

COMMON PLANTS ALONG THE TRAILS

Palapalai

This fern is indigenous to Hawaii and often used in lei. You’ll see it covering large areas of ground.

‘Awapuhi keʻokeʻo

White ginger can be found alongside the path – you’ll know what it is because it smells delicious!

Ti

Ti leaves are long and bright green. They have a variety of uses in Hawaiian culture.

Hana & East Maui

SLOW TRAVEL THROUGH OLD HAWAII

Rugged and remote, East Maui is the go-to spot for Mauians looking to get away from it all – in a place that’s beautifully unchanged.

Tropical fruit farms | Kevin McGovern/Shutterstock ©

With thick jungles, lava-rock coasts, bumpy dirt roads and remote, deserted spaces, East Maui is definitely wild. But it’s also refreshingly welcoming. In slow-moving Hana, you’ll learn to talk story with people who take a personal approach to everything.

The Hana-Maui Resort, recently acquired by Hyatt, has a large footprint in tiny Hana – both physically and economically. But it’s easy to find locals here: just make your way to Hana Bay Beach Park or the public fields behind the resort. The food trucks also draw crowds – or, more like clusters.

Southwest of Hana, you’ll find a narrow slice of Haleakalā National Park that packs in the beauty.

Next up is sleepy Kipahulu, which makes Hana look urban. Tropical fruit farms tend to harvests and shipments – well hidden behind the greenery that hugs the narrow highway.

Then it’s a wild drive on the Piʻilani Hwy to tiny Kaupo and the spectacular open country of the back side of Haleakalā. Due to the ongoing drought here, the pervasive deep-green backdrop of East Hana is looking dishearteningly parched in spots.

If you plan to drive the Road to Hana, book a night or two in East Maui to break up the trip (and lower your blood pressure). Several don’t-miss stops are near the end of the drive – including Waiʻānapanapa State Park, Piʻilanihale Heiau and the Hana Lava Tube.

Road to Hana | Don Landwehrle/Shutterstock ©

THE MAIN AREAS

HANA

Leisurely pursuits, tropical beaches and fab food trucks.

Find Your Way

The Hana Hwy, or Hwy 360, curves around East Maui, which sprawls across the eastern slopes of Haleakalā volcano.

Plan Your Time

Don’t overplan in this laid-back region, where doing ‘not much’ is the whole point. If you do feel like exploring, there are beaches, historic sights, organic farms and waterfalls aplenty.

Sunrise, Koki Beach | Todd Backman Photography/Getty Images ©

Just One Day

On your marks, get set, relax. Start your day with a sunrise viewing at Koki Beach, then pick up coffee and a pastry at My Tita’s Cafe. Walk through the town of Hana, then make your way to Hamoa Beach, beside Hameo Rd. Enjoy a food-truck lunch, then explore Hana Farms Market. End with a walk up Puʻu o Kahaula Hill, followed by dinner at Hana Ranch Restaurant.

Three Days to Explore

For day one, follow the ‘Just One Day’ itinerary. Spend day two exploring the sights at the end of the Road to Hana: Waiʻanapanapa State Park or Piʻilanihale Heiau & Kahanu Garden. Finish up with a cocktail and dinner at the Restaurant at Hana-Maui Resort. On day three, explore Kipahulu and hike the nearby trails of Haleakalā National Park.

Seasonal highlights

SPRING

On the last weekend in April, Hana hosts the East Maui Taro Festival, with food, hula dancing and Hawaiian music.

SUMMER

The Hana Farmers Market runs year-round on Fridays (from 3pm to 4:30pm) on the lawn below Hana Ranch Restaurant.

AUTUMN

For slightly lighter crowds, visit in Maui’s low season (April, May, and September through mid-December).

WINTER

Visit the Hana Arts Winter Show, held in late December at Hana High & Elementary School.

Hana

ANCIENT HISTORY | INFAMOUS DRIVE | BEACH SUNRISES

Due to its history and splendidly isolated location, Hana has a legendary aura. But many travelers are surprised to find that it’s just a sleepy hamlet, with the population a mere 1526. We’ve even heard that some honeymooners leave after one night because Hana is simply too slow-paced. But if you’re open-minded, we recommend digging down into this low-key spot. Hana takes more than just an hour or two to understand.

According to Hawaiian folklore, the god Maui discovered the region of Hana, and it became the epicenter of Maui. The village produced many of ancient Hawaii’s most influential aliʻi (chiefs). Today, it’s definitely one of the most Hawaiian communities in the state, with a timeless rural character. It’s also home to many newcomers willing to trade certain luxuries for a slow and thoughtful way of life in a beautiful setting. Though ‘Old Hawaii’ is a cliché, it’s hard not to think of Hana in such terms. There aren’t many places like this left in Hawaii.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Hana Farms Market

2   Koki Beach

SIGHTS

3   Hamoa Beach

4   Hana Bay Beach Park

5   Hasegawa General Store

6   Piʻilanihale Heiau & Kahanu Garden

7   Waiʻanapanapa State Park

8   Wananalua Congregational Church

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

9   Puʻu o Kahaula Hill

SLEEPING

10   Ekena

11   Hamoa Bay House & Bungalow

12   Hana Inn

13   Hana Kai-Maui

14   Hana-Maui Resort

EATING

15   Ae’s Food Trucks

see 1   Bamboo Hale at Hana Farms

16   Braddah Hutt’s BBQ

17   Hana Gold Chocolate Store

18   Hana Ranch Restaurant

19   Hana Ranch Store

see 2   Huli Huli Chicken

20   Kilo’s Kitchen

see 14   Restaurant at Hana-Maui Resort

21   Shaka Pops

22   Thai Food by Pranee

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

see 14   Bar at Hana Maui

see 21   My Tita’s Cafe

ENTERTAINMENT

23   Hana Farmers Market

TRANSPORT

24   Hana Airport

GETTING AROUND

Hana is 45 miles from Pā‘ia, the nearest large town. Much of the drive is on the famous Road to Hana, which is narrow and twisty and requires the driver’s full attention. The Maui Bus does not service the region.

If you don’t want to drive, consider taking a guided van tour to Hana on the Road to Hana. Valley Isle Excursions specializes in Road to Hana trips.

There are two daily flights from Kahului International Airport to Hana Airport, and two return flights. You’ll need to arrange pick-up from the airport (airports.hawaii.gov).

TOP TIP

If you’re staying a few nights at a rental with a kitchen, it’s a good idea to bring some pre-packed dinner options in a cooler. There are only a handful of restaurants open in the evening, and the general stores have fairly limited selections.

Sunrise at Koki Beach

Pink skies, red cliffs

You don’t get to Koki Beach at sunrise. You and your coffee need to arrive 45 minutes before the sun peeks above the horizon. You’ll likely have the beach to yourself, and by arriving early, you’ll catch the full show, beginning with a mesmerizing pink glow that shimmers behind tiny ʻAlau Island and its silhouetted coconut palms. The pink soon blends into a white-streaked swath of orange dotted by a few wispy clouds. The ruddy red cliffs behind you begin to confirm their existence. It’s all a bit magical.

Koki Beach borders Haneoʻo Rd, about a five-minute drive from the center of Hana. Other recommended locations for catching the sunrise in east-facing Hana include Hana Bay Beach Park and Puʻu o Kahaula Hill.

TAKE A STROLL AROUND HANA

Start with an invigorating breath of fresh air, and maybe a sunrise, at easygoing 1 Hana Bay Beach Park – Hana’s version of the town plaza and the epicenter of local festivals. Here, children splash in the surf, picnickers enjoy the view from the black-sand beach and musicians strum their ukuleles.

From the park, turn left and follow Uakea Rd. The excellent food truck, 2 Thai Food by Pranee, serves fresh fish curries beside the driveway on your left. On your right, the back lawn of the 3 Hana-Maui Resort unfurls in full, well-manicured glory, merging seamlessly with the town’s ball park. Hana Community Center is ahead on the left, and at the end of the block, turn right onto Hauoli Rd, which divides the resort – watch out for golf carts.

The simple but striking 4 Wananalua Congregational Church, built in the 1840s, anchors the corner of Hauoli Rd and the Hana Hwy. The crumbling mausoleums in the cemetery, shaded by the draping branches of a massive banyan tree, are a poignant sight.

Cross the highway and open the gate beside the parking lot to follow the half-mile trail to the top of 5 Puʻu o Kahaula Hill, surmounted by a large cross. With the right mix of sun and rain clouds, the pastures here glow a rich green. At the top, a simple but powerful memorial surrounding the cross honors former Hana Ranch Restaurant owner, Paul Fagan. Enjoy the views of Hana and Hana Bay.

Return the way you came and cross the Hana Hwy. A sidewalk to the left of the resort entrance crosses a small garden, a nice spot for reflection. Pop into the 6 Bar at Hana-Maui to conclude with ocean views and cocktails.

Best Local Flavors at Hana Farms Market

Produce, pizza and gifts

If you’re in Hana for more than a few days, you’ll likely find yourself returning to Hana Farms Market (different to Hana Farmers Market). This small seven-acre farm grows a variety of tropical fruit, flowers and spices, and transforms them into interesting products. Its well-done roadside stand offers banana bread, exotic fruit preserves, tropical hot sauces, island candies, coffee, pastries and spices. It’s a great place to find a unique and tasty gift, and make sure to imbibe in the super-refreshing ginger-lime soda.

There’s a farm restaurant, the Bamboo Hale at Hana Farms, behind the market, and this open-air gem is the local choice for a lunch stop. It serves wood-fired pizzas made with handmade dough and topped with locally sourced meat and veggies. Enjoy live music on Friday and Saturday nights (6–8pm).

Hana-Maui Resort | Billy McDonald/Shutterstock ©

FOOD-TRUCK TOWN

Understanding local zoning regulations is key to understanding Hana. To preserve the town from develop-ment, many properties are zoned agricultural. As a result, it’s extremely difficult to build a commercial property, so almost all restaurants, and some other businesses, inhabit temporary structures – sometimes eye-catchingly so.

You might find them in food trucks, thatched huts, or tents, or under great blue tarps. Ice-cream vendors may be in stands, or trucks that serve as semi-mobile kitchens. Technically, many are illegal, but as long as they benefit the community, no one cares.

Don’t be afraid to eat under a blue tarp. Hana has some good chefs, and these temporary structures are part of the town’s charm.

THE ROAD TO HANA

Head to the trip planner for everything you need to know about planning a scenic Road to Hana trip.

WHERE TO SLEEP IN HANA

Hana Inn Recently renovated eight-room guest house with communal vibe and knowledgeable host. Best rates around. $$

Hana Kai-Maui Hana’s only condo complex is beside Waikoloa Beach and is an easy walk to town. $$

Hana-Maui Resort Now owned by Hyatt, the his-toric resort has big cottages, gorgeous grounds and island-inspired activities. $$$

Kick Back on the Beaches of Hamoa & Koki

Serenity along Haneoʻo Rd

Travel south from Hana on the Hana Hwy and turn left onto Haneoʻo Rd, just before the 50-mile marker, to see some top-notch beaches.

At the base of a red cinder hill, the chocolate-brown sands of Koki Beach attract local surfers. Bodysurfing is excellent here, as the water is shallow for quite a distance, but a rip current has been known to sweep people out to sea if they go too far. Shell picking is good at the tide pools along the edge. It’s also great for sunrises.

The offshore isle topped by a few coconut palms is ʻAlau Island, a seabird sanctuary. Incidentally, those trees are a green refreshment stand – planted by Hana residents to provide drinking coconuts while they were fishing from the island. To get some beachside sustenance, just ahead is Huli Huli Chicken, an easy-going food stand serving up plate lunches and scenic views of ʻAlau Island. Plates are about $20. Cash only.

A little further is Hamoa Beach. Author James Michener (1907–97) was so taken by this beach that he called it the only beach in the North Pacific that looked as if it belonged in the South Pacific. Revel in the clear water, white sand and hala-tree backdrop, and you’ll soon understand – this famous crescent is a gem. When the waves are good, surfers and bodyboarders flock here, though beware of rips and currents. On your way back to town, take a look around the area. They say Oprah owns some land along these slopes.

Hamoa Beach | Juergen_Wallstabe/Shutterstock ©

SUGARCANE, CATTLE & RESORTS

In 1849, ex-whaler George Wilfong bought 60 acres of land in Hana to plant sugarcane. Hana became a booming plantation town – until it went bust in the 1940s due to the larger sugar operations in Central Maui.

Enter San Francisco businessman Paul Fagan, who purchased 14,000 acres in Hana in 1943. Fagan converted the cane fields to ranch land, then opened a six-room hotel as a getaway resort for well-to-do friends. He also brought his minor-league baseball team, the San Francisco Seals, to Hana for spring training. Visiting sports journalists dubbed the town ‘Heavenly Hana.’

Hana Ranch and the legendary Hana-Maui Resort (which has changed hands many times) were the backbone of the local economy for decades thereafter.

WHERE TO EAT DINNER IN HANA

Hana Ranch Store This small market is the place to stock up on groceries and liquor. Also has an ATM. Off Hana Hwy. $

Hana Ranch Restaurant Enjoy the ocean view while savoring American and Hawaiian fare, from poke to kalua pork sandwiches. $$

Restaurant at Hana-Maui Resort Fine dining with a focus on fresh and local fare and ocean views. Bar area, too. $$$

Admire Hana from Puʻu o Kahaula Hill

Short hike to big views

For an inspiring view, you’ll want to make the 30-minute walk (1.5 miles round trip) to the top of Puʻu o Kahaula Hill. You’ll find the paved walkway behind the parking lot of the Hana-Maui Resort (use the gate in the left corner). The path climbs to Hana’s most dominant landmark: a tasteful memorial to former Hana Ranch owner Paul Fagan. It’s like a mountaintop heiau (ancient stone temple), with a huge cross surrounded by stone benches and tiki torches.

HANA’S BEST FOOD TRUCKS

Most food trucks in Hana only open for lunch, and many close on Sundays.

Thai Food by Pranee

Step up to the counter for a large and tasty meal, including fiery curries with mahi-mahi, a type of local fish, and fresh stir-fried dishes.

Braddah Hutt’s BBQ

This place is like a barbecue at your neighbor’s house. Favorites include barbecue chicken and the fish tacos.

Kilo’s Kitchen

Authentic Hawaiian plate lunches, spotlighting locally caught fish and burgers sourced from Maui Cattle Company.

Ae’s Food Trucks

Runs several food trucks – Mexican, American, Thai – in a trailer pod south of Wananalua Con-gregational Church.

Shopping in Hana

Sumptuous chocolates and a general-store icon

The town’s most interesting shopping destination is Hasegawa General Store. Need cash? Ice? Some screws? How about a bottle of Jim Beam? Or a tub of Ben & Jerry’s? The narrow aisles inside this tin-roofed store are jam-packed with a little bit of everything, from hardware to tourist brochures. The Hasegawas have operated a general store in Hana since 1910, and this icon of mom-and-pop shops is frequented by locals picking up supplies, and travelers stopping for snacks (and the ATM).

For locally sourced food and gifts, stop by the roadside stand at Hana Farms Market a few miles northwest of town. On your way back to Hana, turn right at the sign for the Hana Gold Chocolate Store. Follow the driveway to the bungalow, where you can watch chocolate-makers in action and buy small-batch artisan chocolate sourced from the surrounding cacao plantation. The chocolate bars come in numerous delicious flavors, including dark chocolate with Molokaʻi sea salt.

For more sweets, pull over for Shaka Pops. These frozen treats-on-a-stick are sourced from seasonal tropical produce. Look for the mobile tricycle near Hana Gas.

EPIC GEOLOGY & HISTORY

Hana is a short drive from the dramatic coastal beauty of Waiʻanapanapa State Park and the largest temple in Polynesia – the impressive Piʻilanihale Heiau & Kahanu Garden.

Beyond Hana

Venture off the beaten track, where Maui gets wild.

About 10 miles south of Hana is the village of Kipahulu, home to a gorgeous slice of Haleakalā National Park and a smattering of organic farms and exclusive estates. It’s hard to imagine, but this sedate community was once a bustling sugarcane plantation town. After the mill closed in 1922, most people found jobs elsewhere.

Today, mixed among the modest homes, the organic farms and the back-to-the-landers living off the grid, there’s a scattering of exclusive estates, including the former home of aviator Charles Lindbergh.

Kipahulu is also the jumping off point for driving the beautiful but occasionally hair-raising Piʻilani Hwy, known as the ‘Back Road to Hana’. This 25-mile stretch of highway takes drivers to ʻUlupalakua in Upcountry Maui. Unpaved roads can damage rental cars; as such, many of Maui's car-rental companies ban renters from driving the Back Road to Hana. Check your contract beforehand.

GETTING AROUND

To explore this area in depth, you will need to rent a car.

Be sure you understand any restrictions in your rental agreement about driving on unpaved roads.

This is especially true if you plan to tackle the Piʻilani Hwy – the rugged back way to Hana. You may find tourists are discouraged from driving this route. Firstly, the potholed road isn’t in the best condition; secondly, locals can no longer use the top section of road due to the streams of visitors driving it; thirdly, there are occasional sheer drops with no barriers.

Wailua Falls TIME FROM HANA: 20 MINS

A glorious 100ft-high waterfall

Roughly halfway between Hana and Kipahulu, you’ll see orchids growing out of the rocks, and jungles of breadfruit and coconut trees. Around 0.3 miles after the 45-mile marker, you’ll come upon the spectacular Wailua Falls, which plunge a mighty 100ft. There are usually plenty of people lined up snapping photos. Park in the small pull-off just south of the falls.

Kipahulu TIME FROM HANA: 35 MINS

Charles Lindbergh and tropical fruit

Charles Lindbergh, the first man to fly nonstop across the Atlantic Ocean, moved to remote Kipahulu in 1968. After being diagnosed with terminal cancer, he decided to forgo treatment on the mainland and live out his final days here. Following his death in 1974, Lindbergh was buried in the graveyard of Palapala Hoʻomau Congregational Church. The church is also noted for its window painting of a Polynesian Christ draped in the red-and-yellow feather capes of Hawaii’s highest chiefs.

Charles Lindbergh’s grave is located behind the church and comprises a simple granite slab laid upon lava stones. The epitaph is a beautiful (and incomplete) quote from the Bible: ‘If I take the wings of the morning, and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea.’

Walk seaward and you’ll find a viewpoint and a small park aimed at those uttermost parts. To find the church, turn left 350yd south of Hana Hwy’s 41-mile marker and follow the road a short distance. The church is at the end of a long driveway on the left.

For a quick refreshment, continue on the Hana Hwy to Laulima Farm, which is tucked amongst the tropical greenery between mile markers 40 and 41. Pull over for coffee (hand roasted), veggies and fruit, fresh off the adjoining 13-acre farm. Take your time perusing the produce – there may be some delicious tropical fruit you’ve never tried before. Enjoy your treats under bamboo-shaded seating.

Beautiful ʻOheʻo Gulch and the adventurous Pīpīwai Trail are located in the Kipahulu area of Haleakalā National Park.

Mangoes and guavas at ONO Organic Farms

Chuck Boerner is the Willy Wonka of Ono Organic Farms – just substitute tropical fruit for chocolate, and a charming farmer for the top-hatted Wonka. On a 90-minute guided tour of his orchards in Kipahulu, you’ll climb aboard a four-wheeled ‘mule’ and bounce through lush groves of avocados, cacao beans, mangoes, apples, bananas and more on the fertile eastern slopes of Haleakalā. You might glimpse the bright blue sea through the greenery as you pull over to sample the exotic produce. Expect sticky fingers and some of the best fruit you’ve ever tasted – much of the bounty will land on the shelves of Hawaiian Whole Foods groceries, and the larders of Maui’s top restaurants.

After a stop near Boerner’s house for a bit of background and education, you’ll bounce back down the volcano slope through the orchards to the shipping hut, where you’ll be sent off with a big box of delicious fresh fruit that should last the rest of your trip.

As the witty Boerner may tell you as you leave, ‘Sometimes money does grow on trees.’ Private tours offered Monday through Friday by reservation ($375 per small group). Reserve online (onofarms.com) or call 808-268-1784.

VOLUNTEER ON AN ORGANIC FARM

Numerous organic farms in Hawaii need volunteer labor, and many find interns through World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF), a global organization that puts volunteers and organic farms together. In East Maui, sponsors include Hana Farms and Ono Organic Farms.

Unpaid terms are typically three to six months, but those with particularly valuable skills will be considered for shorter placements. One thing’s for sure: volunteers will eat well during their stay. For a full list of opportunities, see wwoofusa.org.

MORE VOLUNTEERING

For more volunteering ideas, read our Traveling with Aloha Spirit essay.

WHERE TO SLEEP IN EAST MAUI

Sleep in East Maui Two-story pole house with vaulted ceilings, wraparound decks and 360-degree views of sea, forest and mountain. $$

Anya’s House Remote ohia cabin with spring-fed water, solar panels and great views across verdant hills to the sea. $$

Hamoa Bay House & Bungalow ‘Tropical Asian fusion’ sums up these two beautiful private cottages nestled in greenery near Hamoa Beach. $$

ROAD TRIP

Piʻilani Highway Road Trip

The spectacular, untamed Piʻilani Hwy (Hwy 31), also known as the ‘Back Road to Hana’, travels 25 ruggedly scenic miles between Kipahulu and ʻUlupalakua. It skirts the southern flank of Haleakalā, encompassing lush jungle, snaking bends and numerous gulches. Then, on the dry side of the island, the road breaks into magnificent wide-open scenery, with crashing seas and volcanic slopes. And hardly anyone is on it.

Huakini Bay | William Powell/Shutterstock ©

1 Kalepa Bridge

Leaving Kipahulu, you’ll drive beneath intimidating – and crumbly – sheer cliffs, fortunately covered in protective chain nets. The Piʻilani Hwy officially starts at Kalepa Bridge, near mile marker 38.5. The drive’s most hair-raising bend comes a short distance later; just drive slowly and honk your way around it. It’s tight, with one-way turns between cliff and sea – with few railings. You may have to back up if you meet another car. And yes, it’s as scary as it sounds.

The Drive: The road remains tight and twisty and the pavement soon gives way to short dirt stretches. The open side of Haleakalā crater becomes visible, and a mile later, you’ll enter Kaupo, near mile marker 35.

2 Kaupo

This scattered community is the stomping ground of paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys), many of them fourth-generation hands working at Kaupo Ranch. As the only lowlands on this section of coast, Kaupo was once heavily settled, and is home to ancient heiau and two 19th-century churches. Now closed, the simple Kaupo Store is a throwback to another era.

The Drive: Continue for one mile.

3 St Joseph Church

Constructed of coral cement, St Joseph Church (1862) appears on your left. On a promontory overlooking the sea and backdropped by mountains, this is Kaupo’s prettiest site. Established by Catholic missionaries, the church celebrated its 160th anniversary in 2022. Visitors are welcome to respectfully stroll the church grounds and cemetery. From here, spot the enormous waterfalls through Kaupo Gap, the great gash in the side of Haleakalā.

The Drive: As you continue west, views of green pastures and blue waters open up ahead, near mile marker 33.

4 Nuʻu Bay

Past Kaupo, and near mile marker 31, a short 4WD road runs to Nuʻu Bay, favored by locals for fishing. Watch out for riptides.

The Drive: East of the 30-mile marker, gateposts mark the path to dramatic Huakini Bay.

5 Huakini Bay

Park near the highway and walk down the rutted drive for a couple of minutes. This rock-strewn Huakini Bay is whipped by violent surf.

The Drive: As you approach ʻUlupalakua, eight graceful windmills mark the return of modern times.

6 Kanaio Natural Area Reserve

At mile marker 19, the road crosses a vast lava flow – Haleakalā’s last-gasp eruption – dating from between 1480 and 1600. This flow is part of the Kanaio Natural Area Reserve. The flow is black and barren all the way to sea. On a clear day, you can see Hawaii.

The Drive: Continue west along dramatic coastal views.

7 Bully’s Burgers

In Kanaio, stop at the distinctive Bully’s Burgers, a roadside shack outpost on the Triple L Ranch for a delicious lunch.

Lanaʻi

THE SEASHORE, RUINS & WONDER

A vintage town, a fabulous beach and lots of wide-open spaces to explore in magnificent isolation.

Lanaʻi Cat Sanctuary | Paul Aker/Shutterstock ©

Although Lanaʻi is the most central of the Hawaiian Islands (on a clear day you can see five of them), it’s also the least ‘Hawaiian.’ Now-closed pineapple plantations are its main legacy, but a deeper look finds ancient Hawaiian sites, colonial ruins, vast swaths of nature and some very good, uncrowded beaches.

Lanaʻi’s signature (imported) Norfolk and Cook Island pines give the island a feel that could just as well come from a remote corner of the South Pacific. And therein lies its charm: it’s a small island (at its widest point only 18 miles across) that’s an off-the-beaten-path destination with a sense of isolation that lets you get away from it all, without going far.

Of course, looming over Lana‘i is billionaire Larry Ellison, who is determined to transform the island, even if the details are always shifting.

Through his local manage-ment company, Pulama Lana‘i, he owns the island’s two resorts and one hotel. In fact, he owns 98% of the island, and a fair chunk of all the businesses. It all adds up to a curious atmosphere, which, in some ways, is a 21st-century evolution of Lanaʻi’s days as a plantation: a past that lingers in the faint outlines of crops across the landscape 30 years on, and the embedded black-plastic shreds that lace the now-barren fields.

Manele Point | gdvcom/Shutterstock ©

The Main Areas

LANAʻI

Historic hub of the island.

Find Your Way

It’s hard to drive more than 10 miles in any direction on the sixth-largest Hawaiian island. Nevertheless, to explore this Island, you’ll need a 4WD.

Plan Your Time

Allow time for exploring and doing nothing on Lanaʻi. The ruins, remote beaches and lonely viewpoints are worth the investment of time, as are the easy pleasures of Hulopoʻe Beach.

Shipwreck Beach | RaulCano/Shutterstock ©

A Day Trip

Start in Lanaʻi City and grab a late breakfast overlooking Dole Park. Learn about the island’s past at Lanaʻi Culture & Heritage Center. Consider a 4WD rental so you can do the island’s top drive to the end of the sandy Keomuku Road at Naha. With extra time in the afternoon, laze around and snorkel at Hulopoʻe Beach.

With Three Days

Rent a mountain bike at Lanaʻi Adven-ture Park or hike the Munro Trail for sweeping views of Lanaʻi. Get a 4WD to go beachcombing along Shipwreck Beach and explore the road through the Kanepuʻu Preserve to Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods). Discover the Lanaʻi Cat Sanctuary and the ancient wonders of Kaunolū.

Seasonal Highlights

SPRING

Winter rains have stopped by April and the entire island enjoys breezy tropical comfort.

SUMMER

Lanaʻi City stays in around the sunny 70s, while Hulopoʻe Beach is in the low 80s.

AUTUMN

Humpback whales return to the waters between Lanaʻi and Maui in November and stick around for the winter.

WINTER

Jackets are needed at night in Lanaʻi City, but the beaches stay balmy. The resorts deck their halls for the holidays.

Lanaʻi City

HISTORY GALORE | LOCAL ART | OUTDOOR DINING

Lanaʻi City’s main square, Dole Park, is surrounded by tin-roofed houses and shops, with not a chain store in sight. The architecture is little changed since the plantation days of the 1920s. Wander between the delightfully varied collection of eateries and shops, all with a low-key feel not found in more touristy places.

HIGHLIGHTS

1   Lanaʻi Culture & Heritage Center

SIGHTS

2   Dole Park

SLEEPING

3   Dreams Come True

4   Hotel Lanaʻi

EATING

5   Blue Ginger Café

6   Ganotisi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine

see 4   Lanaʻi City Bar & Grille

7   Pele’s Other Garden

ENTERTAINMENT

8   Hale Keaka Lanaʻi Theater

SHOPPING

9   Lanaʻi Arts & Cultural Center

10   Local Gentry

11   Mike Carroll Gallery

12   Pine Isle Market

13   Richard’s Market

GETTING AROUND

Air service to Lanaʻi Airport is limited to Mokulele Airlines, which offers frequent service to Honolulu and limited flights to Maui. Resort guests can use private flights.

Expeditions Maui-Lanaʻi Ferry (go-lanai.com) is worth it just for the ride. The ferry links Maʻalaea (Maui) with Manele Bay Harbor on Lanaʻi (one hour) a few times daily.

The resorts provide a luxury airport shuttle. Rabaca’s Island Tours offers rides around the island. 4WD vehicles, are essential to see much of Lanaʻi. There are no chain car-rental agencies.

TOP TIP

Check hours and official facts at the Pulama Lana‘i website (pulamalanai.com). Accommodation options are limited, but there are some houses and rooms listed on Airbnb and Vrbo.

Stroll Lanaʻi City

Shop for art and clothes

Lanaʻi City is laid out in a simple grid pattern, and almost all of the shops and services border the large but simple (it’s mostly grass) expanse of Dole Park. The vaguely alien-looking Norfolk and Cook Island pine trees provide plenty of shade. You can easily stroll the city in under an hour; with stops, add another hour or two.

Art-lovers enjoy Mike Carroll Gallery, where you can find the eponymous owner either creating a new work or displaying the works of one of the more than two dozen artists he represents. It’s a good source for local books, gifts and craft items.

Staffed by local artist volunteers, Lanaʻi Arts & Cultural Center displays works in many mediums, or learn how to create your own from the artists themselves – this is a great place to get local recommendations. Nearby, lovers of artful clothing flock to Local Gentry, a small clothing store with color and flair that caters to visitors and residents alike.

Learn about Lanaʻi’s Fascinating Past

Context for discovering the island

Did you know that during the plantation era, each worker was expected to plant up to 10,000 new pineapple plants per day? That’s just one of the myriad details you’ll learn at the Lanaʻi Culture & Heritage Center. This small, engaging museum has displays covering Lana‘i’s often mysterious history, while photos and a timeline show its transformation into the world’s pineapple supplier in the 1920s. The lives of the workers are shown in detail. It’s an excellent first stop before exploring the island. The center publishes a map and has a superb app (the Lanaʻi Guide) that greatly aids exploring the island.

Al Fresco Meals

Limited but excellent choices

The best spot for a drink outside the resorts is inside the Hotel Lanaʻi, at the Lanaʻi City Bar & Grille. Sturdy 1930s’ schoolhouse furnishings give the wood-floored dining room a vintage air. Outside, there’s a large patio with tables and live music most nights. Food choices are casual (steaks, seafood, burgers, sandwiches), high-quality and fairly priced. This is where residents come for date nights and celebrations. The small bar pours a fine highball.

Great for a weeknight dinner, Pele’s Other Garden is in a restored plantation house with tables inside and out. Owners Barb and Mark cook creative Italian and serve up classic spaghetti and meatballs, crispy thin-crust pizza and some first-rate pesto. Salads are made with organic local greens.

Tops for breakfast and lunch, Blue Ginger Café is a barebones diner where you can serve yourself a cup of coffee, grab a newspaper and settle back at a table outside. Muffins arrive warm from the bakery. The long menu ranges from breakfasts and salads to burgers, delectable chicken katsu (breaded cutlets) and more. It’s been run by the same family for decades.

Super-casual, Ganotisi’s Pacific Rim Cuisine has tables overlooking Dole Park and has a long list of coffee and fruit drinks. The bakery churns out fresh treats throughout the day; the menu encompasses lots of Hawaiian faves.

WHERE TO STAY

Sensei Lanai, A Four Seasons Resort

Larry Ellison’s plush resort emphasizes wellness. Spa treatments, yoga and fitness sessions fill guests’ days. It’s a gracious retreat. $$$

Hotel Lanaʻi

Opened across from Dole Park in 1923, for decades this hotel was low-key. Ownership passed to Pulama Lana‘i and the hotel was rebranded, including high-tech room gizmos. $$$

Dreams Come True

A two-minute walk from Dole Park. Rooms have a mix of comfy antique and modern pieces. There’s a laundry and kitchen. $

See a Movie

Intimate venue for Hollywood hits

Enjoy a first-run movie in one of two 91-seat theaters at Hale Keaka Lanaʻi Theater. A luxe Ellison-era restoration and state-of-the-art equipment have brought luster to this 1926 facility.

Koloiki Ridge Trail | jshyun/FLICKR/CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 DEED ©

FROM PINEAPPLES TO TOURISTS

Evil spirits were thought to be the only inhabitants of Lanaʻi prior to about 1400, when settlers arrived from Maui. Colonialism largely bypassed Lanaʻi, although diseases brought by the odd missionary had decimated the population – from thousands to a few hundred by the 1850s.

In the early 1900s, Charles ‘George’ Gay bought up 98% of Lanaʻi (a holding that has remained almost unbroken through various owners, right down to Larry Ellison today).

In 1922, Lanaʻi passed into the hands of Jim Dole, who started what would soon become the world’s largest pineapple plantation.

In the 1980s, the corporate focus shifted from pineapples to high-end tourists. The final harvest of the former occurred in 1992; the first resort for the latter opened in 1990.

Hike the Koloiki Ridge Trail

Incredible views, lush nature

Thanks to its ascent into the hills east of town, the 5-mile, mostly shaded Koloiki Ridge Trail leads up to one of the most scenic parts of the Munro Trail. It’s a real highlight of any visit to the island, taking about 2½ hours (out and back). The payout is jaw-droppingly sweeping views of lush, pleated hillsides and remote valleys where taro was once grown. Also in the distance are arid lands, dreamy coastline, and Maui and Molokaʻi offshore. The hike either begins on the Munro Trail (the trailhead on the left off Keomuku Rd and Cemetery Rd, just after Plantation Community Cemetery) or at the rear of Lanaʻi Adventure Park.

Beyond Lanaʻi City

An island that feels like an isolated oasis of subtropical pleasure, far from the rest of the world.

Away from the hub of Lanaʻi City, there is a range of excitement. Snorkel the protected reef at the magnificent Hulopoʻe Beach, then lounge around some of the state’s best sand. Go for a short but sublime walk to Manele Point.

Explore the natural beauty on hikes such as the iconic Munro Trail, which traverses the island’s lofty and lush heart above Lanaʻi City. Get lost on the unpaved road to Naha, where an abandoned sugar mill and village mix with untrod beaches that await discovery. And don’t miss the detour to Shipwreck Beach.

Count the other islands from the otherworldly heights of Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods), and then ponder its strange rock formations.

TOP TIP

Always bring food and water on your explorations of Lanaʻi. You’ll be on your own most of the time.

Munro Trail TIME FROM LANAʻI CITY: 15 MINS

Climb to Lanaʻi’s highest point

The Munro Trail, an exhilarating 12-mile adventure through verdant forest, can be hiked or mountain biked, but not driven. For the best views, get an early start. Those hiking or biking should be prepared for steep grades and allow a whole day. Note that rains turn the dirt path into a red swamp. The trail starts near the island cemetery, which is northeast of the Sensei Lanaʻi resort. It can also be reached via the Koloiki Ridge Trail.

Lined with eucalyptus groves and Norfolk pines, the trail looks down on deep ravines cutting across the east flank of the mountain and passes Lanaʻihale (3370ft), Lanaʻi’s highest point. On a clear day, you can see all the inhabited Hawaiian Islands except for Kauaʻi and Niʻihau. The trail ends back on Manele Rd (Hwy 440) between Lanaʻi City and Manele Bay.

Hulopoʻe & Manele Bays TIME FROM LANAʻI CITY: 20 MINS

Everyone’s favorite Lanaʻi beach

Hulopoʻe and Manele Bays are part of a marine-life conservation district that protects the offshore reefs and colorful fish, which makes for great snorkeling on the left side of the bay. Watch for dolphins. Diving is also excellent. Coral is abundant near the cliffsides, where the bottom quickly slopes off to about 40ft. Beyond the bay’s western edge is Cathedrals, the island’s most spectacular dive site, featuring arches and grottoes amid a large lava tube that’s 100ft in length.

Lanaʻi’s finest beach (and one of Hawaii’s best) is the golden crescent of sand at Hulopoʻe Bay. Everybody loves the public Hulopoʻe Beach – you’ll see residents taking the kids for a swim, tourists on day trips from Maui and the many visitors who end up losing track of time here. It’s free and rarely crowded, plus there are lots of palm-shaded picnic tables. The ferry dock is a 10-minute walk. To the left, just beyond the sandy beach, is a low lava shelf with tide pools worth exploring. Look for the protected shoreline splash pool, ideal for children.

From Hulopoʻe Beach, a path (around 1400yd) leads south to the end of stunning Manele Point, which separates Hulopoʻe and Manele Bays. A volcanic cinder cone that’s sharply eroded on its seaward edge, the point’s lava has rich rust-red colors with swirls of gray and ebony basalt. Info signs detail the area’s history and geology and introduce the ʻuaʻu kani, a rare dune-dwelling bird.

Puʻu Pehe is the name of the idyllic cove to the left of the point, as well as the pillar of an islet that stands like an 80ft-high exclamation mark in the bay. Also known as Sweetheart’s Rock, the islet has a tomb-like formation on top that features in the melodramatic legend of Pehe, a beautiful maiden who drowned in the turbulent waters.

Lana‘i’s premier resort, Four Seasons Resort Lanaʻi, has a minimalist tropical aesthetic and a splendid location with sublime views of Manele Bay’s azure waters and beach. Rooms and suites feature every luxury; the gardens and pool are artful. There’s also a branch of the high-end Japanese sushi chain Nobu, which happens to be Larry Ellison’s favorite.

Lanaʻi | Frederick Millett/Shutterstock ©

PACK A PICNIC

Outside of Lanaʻi City, there is nowhere to buy food and drink on the island, other than the resorts.

If you have planned a day of adventures to places such as Keomuku Rd, Keahiakawelo or even Hulopoʻe Beach, be sure to bring plenty of water and snacks. This is especially important for hikes such as the Munro Trail.

In Lanaʻi City, there are two supermarkets and no convenience stores. Richard’s Market, now owned by Larry Ellison, has prepared foods ideal for picnics, and a good wine and beverage selection. It's been remodeled to look like a small Whole Foods. Pine Isle Market is simpler and cheaper. All the places to eat offer takeaway service.

Keomuku Road TIME FROM LANAʻI CITY: 30–90 MINS

Drive to Shipwreck Beach

Lanaʻi’s best drive, Keomuku Road (Hwy 430) heads north from Lanaʻi City and then gently slopes down to the coast for 8 miles in a series of switchbacks through a barren landscape. Along the way, impromptu overlooks offer vistas of undeveloped Molokaʻi and its tiny islet, Mokuhoʻoniki, in marked contrast to Maui’s sawtooth high-rises in Kaʻanapali. The paved road ends near the ocean, and 4WD country begins.

Take the sandy road that runs 1.4 miles north from the end of Hwy 430, past some beach shacks. Park in the large clearing overlooking a rocky cove, which is known locally as Poʻaiwa and has good snorkeling among the rocks and reef, as well as protected swimming over the sandy bottom.

Unlike many other places named Shipwreck Beach, where the name seems fanciful at best, you can’t miss the namesake wreck here: a large WWII tanker sits perched atop rocks just offshore. Unlike a metal ship (which would have dissolved decades ago), this one was made from concrete, and it was dumped here by the navy after the war. The wreck is about 440yd north of Poʻaiwa; you can stroll for at least 9 miles along this sandy shore.

Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods) | Billy McDonald/Shutterstock ©

LIFE ON LARRY’S ISLAND

Decades of sleepy seclusion for Lanaʻi ended in 2012 when the fabulously wealthy Oracle software mogul, Larry Ellison, bought out the island’s long-time owner Castle & Cooke (which once ran the plantations under the Dole name).

For his estimated $600 million purchase price, Ellison got all but 2% of Lanaʻi – the rest is private homes or government land – and a bevy of businesses, such as the hotels. The changes have been many – and tightly managed.

One example is some new affordable housing for workers, where all aspects of life will be regulated, right down to the pots used for plants.

Ellison has said he wants the island to become economically self-sufficient, yet achieving this may be the biggest challenge of his life.

Ruins on the Road to Naha

Overhanging kiawe trees shade the next leg of coastal dirt-road running southeast to Naha from Shipwreck Beach and the end of Hwy 430. Conditions vary from smooth to deeply cratered to impossibly soupy after storms. This is where your 4WD will justify its rental fee, as you explore the ruins of failed dreams and discover magical beaches. Expect to spend at least two hours out and back.

Less than a mile in is the location of an ancient heiau (stone temple) that was here until 1890, before the Maunalei Sugar Company dismantled it and used the stones to build a fence and railroad. Shortly after this desecration, the company was beset by fatal misfortune.

The abandoned Keomuku village is another 5 miles along and features the beautifully reconstructed Ka Lanakila o Ka Malamalama Church, which dates to 1903. Look for ruins, including a steam locomotive and buildings, and an old boat, towards the water. Excellent signs provide info.

A further 2 miles southeast, Halepalaoa Landing features a pier, a desert-island beach out of central casting and a small cemetery for Japanese sugarcane workers. The final 4-mile beach-lined stretch of sandy road ends at Naha, a dramatic and desolate setting where the modern world seems very far away. In winter, the number of whales breaching offshore may outnumber the humans basking on the sand.

DAY TRIP TO LANAʻI

For a DIY day trip, take the morning ferry from Maui; keep an eye out for schools of dolphins as the boat approaches Manele Bay. In winter, there’s a fair chance of seeing humpback whales.

At Manele Harbor, you can take the short walk to Hulopoʻe Beach or set off in a 4WD vehicle you’ve reserved in advance. At day’s end, catch the ferry back to Maui – if the timing’s right, you’ll get the sunset on the way.

Sail Trilogy, also from Maui, offers all-inclusive day-trip packages on a large sailboat that includes beach and adventure activities.

From Honolulu, a day trip is possible with careful flight scheduling. Set up your 4WD rental in advance.

Road to Keahiakawelo TIME FROM LANAʻI CITY: 20–40 MINS

Discover the garden of the gods

Strange rock formations and views that would overexcite a condo developer are reached via the unpaved, 4WD-only Polihua Rd that leads northwest out of Lanaʻi City. The 590-acre Kanepuʻu Preserve is the last native dryland forest of its kind in Hawaii. A short interpretive trail details rare plants, including the endangered ʻiliahi (Hawaiian sandalwood) and naʻu (fragrant Hawaiian gardenia).

Weirdly shaped volcanic rocks are strewn about the Martian landscape of Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods). Multihued rocks and earth, with a palette from amber to rust to sienna, are stunning. It’s utterly silent up here, and you can see up to four other islands across the often white-capped waters. The colors change with the light – pastels in the early morning, rich hues in the late afternoon.

Kaumalapaʻu Highway TIME FROM LANAʻI CITY: 15–45 MINS

Feline purr-fection

Lana‘i’s most peculiar attraction is the Lanaʻi Cat Sanctuary, a volunteer-run, 3.5-acre feline wonderland housing over 650 cats who have all been removed from the wild to protect the local bird populations. Visitors are given treat bags, which the well-fed residents often ignore. Facilities are posh and whimsical. A half-hour visit can become quite entertaining, and if you make a connection, the staff can help you with adoption and transport home. It’s just off the highway, west of Lana‘i City.

An ancient Hawaiian village

Perched around the highest sea cliffs on Lanaʻi (1080ft), the archaeological site of Kaunolū is home to the island’s largest collection of ruins. It’s easy to get goosebumps wandering the structures of this ancient Hawaiian village, complete with the remains of houses, shrines, petroglyphs and ceremonial sites. In the 1790s, King Kamehameha used it as a vacation spot between battles and famously enjoyed cliff-diving from the 60ft-high Kahekili’s Leap.

The well-marked Keālia Kapu-Kaunolū Heritage Trail, with information boards throughout, runs 0.5 miles around the site. You’ll likely have the whole place to yourself, as the road down here is extremely rough, 4WD-only and may not be allowed for a rental vehicle. Expect the drive here to take at least 45 minutes from Lanaʻi City.

LANAʻI BY BIKE

The main cycling operator is Lanaʻi Adventure Park, which rents bikes in many flavors, including mountain bikes and e-bikes. There are daily, weekly and long-term rates. Otherwise, there aren’t a lot of other options for organizing activities or renting gear.

Lanaʻi’s usually traffic-free roads are great for cycling, as are many of the trails, including the Munro Trail.

For cyclists in good shape, there is a good ride out to Keahiakawelo. A mountain bike is good for this one. Zipping down the Keomuku Rd is a long-distance thrill, although once at the bottom, you have to steel yourself for the (mostly) uphill 8-mile slog back.

Molokaʻi

GORGEOUS SOLITUDE AND CULTURE

Unrivalled natural beauty unspoiled by crowds and burnished by a powerful pride of place.

Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm | Bloomberg Creative/Getty Images ©

There is a popular local T-shirt that proclaims ‘Molokaʻi time is when I want to show up.’ Which sums up this idiosyncratic island perfectly: it’s feisty and independent, yet it’s careful not to take life too seriously. So slow waaay down and take your sense of rhythm from the residents.

Molokaʻi is often cited as the ‘most Hawaiian’ of the islands, and in terms of bloodlines, this is true – more than 50% of the residents are at least part Native Hawaiian. The island has a long and tortured history of outside interests, even when said interests provide vital jobs. Recently, that has included stymieing the development plans of Molokaʻi Ranch – which covers a huge chunk of western Molokaʻi and which effectively shut down its holdings, along with hundreds of jobs, in 2008.

Residents have also targeted plans to build power-generating windfarms, visits by cruise ships, and more. As you drive – slowly – around the island, you’ll see plenty of homemade signs protesting the cause of the moment.

Don’t expect great tourist facilities. But if you’re after a place that best celebrates the Hawaiian Islands’ geography and indigenous culture, then Molokaʻi is for you.

The Ancient Hawaiian sites in the island’s beautiful, tropical east and drier west are jealously protected and restored. It’s a place of great natural beauty, where what’s considered a crowd fits into a rental car.

Papohaku Beach | Westend61/Getty Images ©

The Main Areas

KAUNAKAKAI

The island’s timeless hub.

Find Your Way

Molokaʻi is 260 sq miles in size. It’s shaped like a Spam musubi (a block of rice with a slice of fried Spam on top): long and rectangular. Much of the island is remote, as exemplified by the Kalaupapa Peninsula. Roads are few. Molokaʻi Airport is the main airport.

Plan Your Time

You can see Molokaʻi’s beautiful east in a day, but to fully appreciate the area, and the rest of the island, we recommend giving it more time.

Kapuaʻiwa Coconut Grove | Peter Blottman Photography/Getty Images ©

Just One Day

After checking out timeless Kaunakakai, drive east towards the Halawa Valley. Stop at Manaʻe Goods & Grindz for lunch, then continue to the valley and its sensational waterfall hike, and Halawa Beach. If time allows, snorkel at Kūmimi Beach on the way back. Pause at St Joseph’s Church to learn about Father Damien, the first American saint.

With More Time

Stroll Kaunakakai and pick a spot serving local faves for lunch. Head west to Kawakiu Beach and Kepuhi Beach at the island’s end and thrill at the dramatic surf. Stop off at Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm and the Molokaʻi Museum & Cultural Center. Make the journey to Kaluapapa National Historical Park for its uncompromising scenery.

Seasonal Highlights

SPRING

Rains taper off in April. St Damien’s feast day on May 10 sparks island-wide celebrations and processions.

SUMMER

Breezy tropical comfort through August. Even though it’s summer, the island does not have a high season for tourism.

AUTUMN

Molokaʻi enjoys lovely low daytime temperatures at around 80°F; conditions are a little cooler up high.

WINTER

Rainy in the east; breezy and damp in the hills. The humpback whales arrive. St Marianne’s feast day is January 23.

Kaunakakai

LOCAL ART | FOODIE FEASTS | COCONUT GROVES

View a photo of Molokaʻi’s biggest town from 60 years ago, and the main drag doesn’t look much different to today. Worn wood-fronted buildings with tin roofs that roar in the rain seem like castoffs from a Clint Eastwood Western. But there’s no artifice to Kaunakakai: it’s the real deal. All of the island’s commercial activities are here, and you’ll visit often – for its shops and services, if nothing else.

SIGHTS

1   Church Row

2   Kapuaʻiwa Coconut Grove

3   Kaunakakai Wharf

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

4   Molokaʻi Fish & Dive

5   Molokaʻi Library

SLEEPING

6   Hotel Molokaʻi

7   Molokaʻi Shores

EATING

8   A Taste of Molokaʻi

9   Friendly Market

see 6   Hiro’s Ohana Grill

10   Kamo’i Snack-n-Go

11   Kanemitsu Bakery

12   Misaki’s

13   Molokaʻi Burger

14   Molokaʻi Wines & Spirits

15   Mrs K’s

16   Oamil Store

see 4   Ono Fish n’ Shrimp

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

17   Paddler’s Inn

SHOPPING

18   Molokaʻi Art from the Heart

TRANSPORT

19   Molokaʻi Bicycle

GETTING AROUND

It’s not uncommon to see signs in shops offering car rentals; if you haven’t arranged this already, you can get a good deal. Remember to fuel up in Kaunakakai before driving anywhere, though, as the only two gas stations on the island are here.

It’s easy to walk around the town, and it’s the best way to enjoy a visit. There are limited taxi services. For two wheels, the owner of Molokaʻi Bicycle, Phillip Kikukawa, has a great knowledge about cycling the island. He rents all types of bikes and does pick-ups and drop-offs.

TOP TIP

Kaunakakai closes early, so watch the time, as the island’s only two supermarkets are here. Friendly Market has the best selection. Nearby, Misaki’s is a living museum of grocery retailing.

Stroll Molokaʻi’s Center

Shops, art and food

Strolling the few blocks of Kaunakakai is an atmospheric way to spend an hour or two as you wend your way past buildings from other eras – some historic, some just old. The Molokaʻi Library is a plantation-era gem from 1937.

There is always a changing line-up of shops. Long-running Molokaʻi Art from the Heart is run by over 50 local artists and is packed with arts and crafts. Works in all media can be found here, and quality ranges from the earnest to the superb. The T-shirts with local sayings (‘Slow down! This is Molokaʻi!’) are the real finds in the souvenir department.

Feast on Hawaiian Food

Bakeries, food trucks and lunch spots

The sidewalks in Kaunakakai are mostly rolled up by sunset, so lunch is the big meal here. Several eateries here are great spots to try Hawaiian food, especially plate lunches.

The most famous is Kanemitsu Bakery, a scruffy place with fresh-baked goods, like Molokaʻi sweet bread and crackers (the macadamia-nut ones are extraordinary).

The best stuff is usually gone by 1pm, but the real joy here happens every night of the week but Monday, when you can slip down the alley to the back door to buy some seductively sweet bread loaves, hot from the oven. The taciturn baker will split open your bread and slather on one of several spreads, from cream cheese to strawberry jelly. Show your real insider knowledge and also ask for a fresh-glazed doughnut.

The food trucks have also hit Molokaʻi, and Kaunakakai has two good ones. Ono Fish n’ Shrimp has delicious seafood plates (or should that be takeout boxes?), and the fish is über-fresh. Look for the seared mahi-mahi, fish and chips, steak and shrimp combos, plus the fish tacos and sublime shrimp plates.

A Taste of Moloka’i has two adjoining trucks serving heaped bowls of the town’s best poke (cubed raw fish mixed with shōyu, sesame oil, salt, chili pepper, ‘inamona or other condiments). It also serves fresh fish dowsed in shōyu. In the mornings, try the açai bowls, heaped with your choice of fruit.

Two food outlets also have popular, local, ready-to-go foods. Oamil Store is a small Filipino-accented grocery store where you can get bags of chips that are best-sellers in Manila. Look for a wide counter covered with sweets and treats. Their Spam musubi (Spam on rice – like sushi) is the island’s best – and often still warm. Counter-service Mrs K’s has daily plate-lunch and breakfast specials.

Molokaʻi’s Best Dinner Spot

Sunsets and lovely cuisine

Hotel Molokaʻi’s house restaurant, Hiro’s Ohana Grill, offers fine waterfront dining with great sunsets. Appetizers, and the Asian, Italian and seafood mains, are all well crafted. There’s live Hawaiian music with ukulele musicians and singers on multiple nights of the week. Watch for the Friday afternoon performances by local kupuna (elders), who gather to play Hawaiian music on ‘Aloha Fridays.’

A BRIEF HISTORY OF MOLOKAʻI

Molokaʻi was possibly inhabited as early as the 7th century. It was known for its warriors, and its chiefs held great sway in the ever-shifting alliances between Oʻahu and Maui. Much of the population lived in the east, where regular rainfall, fertile soil and rich waters ensured abundant crops.

Some of the most amazing pre-contact sites on the Hawaiian Islands can be found here, including the enormous ʻIliʻiliʻopae Heiau, and the series of fish-ponds just offshore.

Upon first European contact in 1786, the population was about 8000, close to today’s total. By the 1900s, there were large plantations of sugarcane and pineapples, as well as cattle ranches. All the big pineapple players had operations here, but all had ceased production by 1990.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN KAUNAKAKAI

Molokaʻi Burger

Burgers come in many forms; there are also sandwiches, fried chicken, and Hawaiian plates, such as loco moco. $

Paddler’s Inn

The island’s only pub has a dive feel, with a large terrace; live music some nights. $

Kamo’i Snack-n-Go

Candy store with sweets and delicious, Honolulu-made Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream. Flavors include purple yam. $

Royal Coconuts

A king’s favorite grove

Molokaʻi was the favorite island playground of revered 19th-century ruler King Kamehameha V. He had the royal, 10-acre Kapuaʻiwa Coconut Grove planted near his sacred bathing pools in the 1860s. Standing tall about a mile west of downtown, the grove is fenced, as the coconuts frequently plunge silently to the ground. Seeing the hundreds of graceful palms swaying in the breeze is an evocative sight. There’s also a neighboring park that’s a wonderful place to enjoy the sunset.

Across from the coconut grove is Church Row, where any denomination that attracts a handful of members receives its own little tract of land. Some of the churches date back decades.

Catch the View from Kaunakakai Wharf

See Lanaʻi and Maui

This is classic Molokaʻi. Low-key, with a slow vibe and some great views. So come to the wharf to witness Molokaʻi’s busy commercial lifeline. OK, it’s not that busy. A freight barge occasionally chugs in, skippers unload their catch of the day, and a local boat-club practices for a canoe race.

‘Aloha Fridays’, Hiro’s Ohana Grill | John Elk III/Alamy Stock Photo ©

MOLOKAʻI’S SCANT SLEEPING SPOTS

Hotel choices in Molokaʻi’ are limited to one, the unprepossessing Hotel Molokaʻi east of Kaunakakai. Rooms are finished with native design touches and have kitchenettes.

Given the limitations on vacation rentals, holiday rental listings are centered on a handful of condo developments. Near the hotel, Molokaʻi Shores dates to the 1970s and has around 100 one- and two-bedroom units, with decor ranging from daggy to charming, depending on the individual owners.

The best option is out east near mile marker 12. The immaculately maintained Wave-crest Resort has striking views of green mountains behind and the ocean lapping gently out front. Units are attractive and well equipped.

In the lonely west, the best option is the well-run Ke Nani Kai condos.

Beyond Kaunakakai: Eastern Molokaʻi

Molokaʻi’s highlight is this outstanding drive to the tropical east, where every mile brings a new surprise.

Unlike the arid west, this is tropical Molokaʻi, with palm trees arching over the road, and bananas, papayas, guava and passion fruit hanging from the lush foliage, ripe for the picking.

Whether you’re on the island for a day or a week, the 27-mile drive on Kamehameha V Hwy (Hwy 450), from Kaunakakai to the Halawa Valley, is simply a must. Each curve yields a new vista: you’ll catch glimpses of ancient fishponds, stoic old wooden churches, beaches, the neighboring islands of Lanaʻi and Maui, and so much more. Off the rocky coast later in the drive, you may see whales if you’re here between November and April. The final climb, up and over into the remote Halawa Valley, is simply breathtaking.

GETTING AROUND

Hwy 450/Kame-hameha V Hwy is the spine of the east, and only very small lanes branch off it. Navigation is done using the mile markers, which run up through 24 before ending a few miles short of Halawa Bay.

After the first 10 miles leaving Kaunakakai, the road narrows and becomes scenic and sinuous. The road isn’t busy, so if you decide to cycle it, the conditions won’t be overly challenging – at least until the road starts climbing the hills.

TOP TIP

Pack beach gear for the drive, as you never know when one of the beaches along the road will strike your fancy.

Kamehameha V Highway TIME FROM KAUNAKAKAI: 20–50 MINS

Visit the churches of America’s first saint

Only two of the four Molokaʻi churches that missionary saint, Father Damien, built outside the Kalaupapa Peninsula are still standing. One of them is the quaint white-wood St Joseph’s Church, just east of mile marker 10. This simple one-room church, dating from 1876, has a steeple, a bell, five rows of pews and some of the original wavy-glass panes. The adjoining old cemetery has a lot of stories to tell.

Just west of mile marker 15 is the Damien-built Our Lady of Seven Sorrows. It dates to 1874 and has an old-school wooden interior that’s quite charming.

Discover a sacred site

ʻIliʻiliʻopae Heiau is thought to be the second-largest heiau (ancient stone temple) in Hawaii. It also might be the oldest religious site in the state, dating from the 13th century; some Hawaiian people consider it to be the piko (navel, or center) of the islands. The dimensions of this temple are astonishing: it’s 287ft long and 87ft wide, and about 22ft high on the eastern side, and 11ft high on the western side. The main platform is strikingly level, and historians believe the original heiau may have been three times its current size. Like the fishponds along this part of the island’s coast, the heiau represents an extraordinary output of labor by people with no real tools at their disposal.

Once a luakini (temple of human sacrifice), ʻIliʻiliʻopae is today silent, except for the singing of the birds. African tulip and mango trees line the trail to the site – a peaceful place filled with mana (spiritual essence), and stones that still seem to emanate vibrations of a mystical past. Remember: it’s disrespectful to walk across the top of the heiau.

Visiting the heiau is a little tricky. Park well off the highway and don’t block any access roads or drives. The trail is on the mauka (inland) side of the highway, just over half a mile past mile marker 15, immediately after Mapulehu Bridge. Look out for the gated dirt track into the trees, and the fire hydrant.

Walk up the tree-shaded dirt track until you start to see the huge rocks of the heiau on the left. You’ll need to do some bushwhacking to reach it across the streambed. Head to the steps on the northern side of the heiau for a good view.

St Joseph’s Church | Michael Runkel/Getty Images ©1

ANCIENT FISHPONDS

From Kaunakakai, and continuing east along Hwy 450/Kamehameha V Hwy, are dozens of loko iʻa (fishponds): huge, circular walls of rock that are an ancient form of aquaculture.

Monumental in size, and backbreaking in creation, the fishponds operate on a simple principle: little fish swim in and find a happy, food-filled environment. Once they grow, they can’t swim back out through the opening. Some ponds are overgrown by mangroves; others have been restored.

ʻUalapuʻe Fish-pond is at mile marker 13. A National Historic Landmark, it has been restored and restocked with species that were raised here in ancient times.

Kahinapohaku Fishpond, about half a mile past mile marker 19, is in excellent shape, tended by on-site konohiki (caretakers).

Visit the best shop in the east

In barely-there Pukoʻo, near milepost 16, Manaʻe Goods & Grindz is an essential stop in the east. Even if it weren’t your only option, you’d still want to get a meal here. The plate lunches are a local legend: tender yet crispy chicken katsu (Japanese-style deep-fried cutlets), specials such as pork stew, and standards such as excellent teriyaki burgers and fresh fish sandwiches. The potato salad is superb, and the mac salad is sublime. Pause at one of the outdoor tables, or get a takeaway and pull in at a scenic stopover. The adjoining small shop has refreshments for sale.

Sand and surf

Kūmimi Beach (also known as 20 Mile Beach or Murphy’s Beach) is well protected by a reef. The curve of fine sand fronts a large lagoon that’s great for snorkeling. Near the shore there are rocks, and the water can be very shallow, but work your way out and you’ll be rewarded with schools of fish, living sponges, octopi and more.

The pointy clutch of rocks sticking out as the road swings left before the 21-mile marker is, appropriately enough, called Rock Point. The popular (same-named) Rock Point surf break is the site of local competitions, and it’s the place to go if you’re looking for swells.

Moaʻula Falls | Mike Brake/Shutterstock ©

GEAR RENTAL & TOURS

Molokaʻi Fish & Dive

Located in Kaunakakai, this operator runs whale-watching trips, plus snorkeling and diving trips to the island’s 32-mile-long Palaʻau Barrier Reef and more than 40 dive spots. It also arranges fishing trips, rents out gear and has a range of beach accessories.

Molokaʻi Outdoors

Runs kayaking trips along the coast plus day tours across the island, including to remote beaches and forests. Gear rental includes mopeds, kayaks, snorkeling sets and all manner of beach items, like coolers and beach chairs.

Molokaʻi Ocean Tours

Offers intimate humpback whale-watching and sunset cruises aboard a small, rubber boat.

Halawa Valley TIME FROM KAUNAKAKAI: 75 MINS

Explore an idyllic, sacred place

Stunningly gorgeous, the Halawa Valley enjoys an end-of-the-road isolation that its residents guard jealously. It was an important settlement in precontact Molokaʻi, with a population of more than 1000 and a complex irrigation system watering more than 700 taro patches. Remains of a burial ground that may date to 650 CE and a seven-tiered stone temple are scattered over the pathway to the Moaʻula and Hipuapua Falls. Three heiau sites are believed to have been built in this area, and two of these are thought to have been luakini (where human and animal sacrifices were made). You’ll probably still feel the charge down here.

As late as the mid-19th century, the fertile valley still had a population of about 500 and produced most of Molokaʻi’s taro. However, taro farming came to an abrupt end in 1946, when a massive tsunami swept up the Halawa Valley, wiping out the farms and much of the community. A second tsunami hit the valley in 1957. Only a few residents now remain; not everyone welcomes visitors: respect gates and any ‘no trespassing’ signs.

Stay at Molokaʻi’s second-largest ranch

At the top of the hill just before you descend into the Halawa Valley, Puʻu O Hoku Ranch (the name means ‘Hill of Stars’) is Molokaʻi’s second largest. Guests can choose from three remote cottages (including an awesome one on the beach), and even an entire lodge. There is an organic farm here, too, and you can sometimes buy refreshments and organic honey from the tiny store along the main road.

The setting is truly magical, as the ranch is surrounded by 14,000 acres of protected land. There are good views over the open, green lands out to sea. Should you stay here, the wide-open vistas validate the name.

Visit the sublime Halawa Beach Park

Where the road ends at the east of the island, you’ll find raw and beautiful Halawa Beach, bracketed by verdant, tropical hills. It was once a surfing spot for Molokaʻi’s chiefs, although these days, you’re likely not to see a soul. The beach has double coves separated by a rocky outcrop, with the north side a bit more protected than the south. You can easily spend a day in this magical place, lounging on the powdery sand.

VACATION RENTALS

Molokaʻi is covered by Maui County’s restrictive laws regarding short-term rental homes, which are classed as single-family residences operated as vacation rentals.

Technically, the number permitted on the island is zero. However, you’ll still find a lot of houses for rent on Airbnb and Vrbo. Whether a property is listed due to an exemption or is simply because they’re ignoring the rule is debatable.

Prospective guests should understand that they may be in some shade of a legal ‘grey area.’ That said, renting a holiday home can be the centerpiece of a delightful trip, especially when the other accommodation options are so few.

There are some beautiful homes in this region of the island, some with private beaches, and almost all with magnificent views.

Hike to Moaʻula and Hipuapua Falls

The hike and spectacle of the 250ft Moaʻula and Hipuapua Falls, which cascade down the back of the lush Halawa Valley, are a highlight of many a visit to Molokaʻi. The twin falls are reached via a straightforward 2-mile trail lined with historic sites. To protect these sites, and because the trail crosses private property, you are required to visit the falls with a local guide.

There are numerous cultural sites along the path, and you’ll pass through lush tropical foliage during the walk: look out for the bright orange blossoms of African tulip trees and the brilliant green of beach heliotrope trees.

The crescendo of the hike is the dreamy falls. Most people thrill at the bracing plunge into the pools at the bottom. Walks can easily take three to five hours, depending on the abilities of those in your group – expect muddy conditions and the occasional need to clamber over river boulders. Be sure to bring sturdy hiking shoes or sandals, a swimsuit, plenty of water, a snack, sunscreen, mosquito repellent, and a poncho or other form of protection from the rain.

Book a hike well in advance. Reputable guides include Greg Kawaimaka Solatorio (halawavalleymolokai.com), who represents a family who has lived in the valley for generations. His tours include extensive cultural demonstrations. Kalani Pruet (molokaiflowers.com), who runs a flower farm, also offers hikes and makes a mean smoothie from the fruit he gathers at his lush spread of land.

Molokaʻi’s sea pali (cliffs) | Reimar/Shutterstock ©

PALI SPECTACLES

The world’s tallest sea pali (cliffs) rise from the Pacific Ocean along an awe-inspiring 14-mile stretch of Molokaʻi’s north coast, from the Kalaupapa Peninsula almost to Halawa Beach.

The average drop of these sheer cliffs is 2000ft, with some reaching 3300ft. And these intimidating walls are not monolithic – vast valleys roaring with waterfalls cleave the dark faces of the rock. It’s Molokaʻi’s most dramatic sight and also the most difficult to see. (Fun fact: it served as ‘Skull Island’ in the second – and less impressive – King Kong, from 1976.)

One of the best ways to view this geologic drama is by helicopter, and if you’re at Halawa Beach, you’ll see a constant stream of tours – from Maui – buzzing overhead.

Beyond Kaunakakai: Central & Western Molokaʻi

A lofty perch, a lonely landmark, fertile lands and untrod beaches are highlights of the wide-open west.

Central Molokaʻi combines the fertile and gently rolling Hoʻolehua Plains and the lofty ancient forests of Kamakou. Molokaʻi’s second-most popular drive (after the road to Halawa Valley in the east) runs up Hwy 470 to Palaʻau State Park, site of the Kalaupapa Overlook, where you’ll find one of the island’s most captivating views. Far below, Kalaupapa National Historical Park preserves the stunning, tragic and sequestered namesake peninsula.

Largely deserted and just a couple of missed rainfalls from becoming a desert, Molokaʻi’s west has a number of lonely, wind-buffeted beaches. In recent decades, much of the land was controlled by the Molokaʻi Ranch, which ceased operations in 2008, leaving the scruffy Kaluakoi Resort area financially troubled.

GETTING AROUND

Your own wheels are essential for exploring the western half of Molokaʻi. All the mains sights can be easily reached by bicycle or regular cars – note that a few wild areas in the uplands require a 4WD. Only the Kalaupapa Peninsula is a true challenge, requiring either a quick flight from Molokaʻi Airport or a grueling hike down a cliff face. Walks and hikes in this region are a rewarding aspect of the enjoyment of these natural sights.

TOP TIP

Access to Kalaupapa National Historical Park has been in flux after the pandemic. Check the National Park Service website (nps.gov/kala/index.htm) for information.

Molokaʻi Plumerias Farm TIME FROM KAUNAKAKAI: 10 MINS

A treat for the senses

The island’s best-smelling tour is at the Molokaʻi Plumerias Farm, which you can see from Hwy 460. On an hour-long visit, you learn all about the flower, its color variations and how to make a lei. The family-run farm has over 1000 plumeria trees (often called frangipani outside of the Western hemisphere) and the flowers are picked daily. Most are shipped to the mainland for use in floral displays and leis. They also do a good business in plumeria tree-cuttings and seeds.

Tours can be booked and arranged through their website (molokaiplumerias.com).

Hoʻolehua TIME FROM KAUNAKAKAI: 20–30 MINS

Taste local bounty

Hoʻolehua is the dry plains area that separates eastern and western Molokaʻi. Here, in the 1790s, Kamehameha the Great trained his warriors in a yearlong preparation for the invasion of Oʻahu. It’s a fertile area, which you’ll discover at Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm, where enthusiastic nut farmer Tuddie Purdy takes you on a free tour of his nearly 90-year-old orchard. Everything is done in quaint Molokaʻi style: you crack open macadamia nuts on a stone with a hammer and then try the incredible macadamia-blossom honey, scooped up with slices of fresh coconut.

Just 10 minutes down the road from Purdy’s, near Molokaʻi Airport, Kumu Farms grows bananas, papayas, herbs, tomatoes, lettuce and much more. At its attractive store, you can enjoy sampling the various fresh treats at the nearby picnic tables and stock up on lots of fresh produce to cook in your vacation rental.

Kauleonanahoa (the penis of Nanahoa) | Ralf Broskvar/Shutterstock ©

Post-a-Nut!

When it comes to taunting the folks in the cold climes you’ve left behind, why settle for a mundane postcard or, worse, a selfie of you looking like a tan-lined git? Instead, send a coconut! Choose from the pile of free coconuts at the Hoʻolehua Post Office and then decorate it using oodles of markers. Write the address right on the husk, apply a panoply of colored stamps, and ship it off.

LEGENDARY CANOE RACES

The famous Molokaʻi Hoe (molokaihoe.com) is a grueling outrigger canoe race from remote Hale O Lono Point in West Molokaʻi to Oʻahu.

Some 200 six-person teams paddle furiously across the 41-mile Kaʻiwi Channel. The record time (from 2011) was done in four hours, 30 minutes, and 54 seconds by the legendary Shell Vaʻa team.

The event is considered the world championship of men’s long-distance outrigger canoe-racing. It’s easily the biggest event each year in Molokaʻi.

After a pause during the pandemic, the race is slated to return in 2025.

The Na Wahine O Ke Kai is much the same as the Molokaʻi Hoe, but with all-female teams. It also took a pandemic hiatus, and plans are in flux for its return.

Get to grips with local history

The old RW Meyer Sugar Mill houses the Molokaʻi Museum & Cultural Center, which has a small but intriguing display of local history, with period photos and cultural relics. The special exhibits are usually worthwhile, and may include historic photo displays or themed artifact displays. There’s also a good selection of local books for sale that you won’t find from other local sources.

Palaʻau State Park TIME FROM KAUNAKAKAI: 20–30 MINS

Lofty sights await at the end of the world

Listen to the wind rustle through the groves of ironwood and eucalyptus trees at misty, end-of-the-road Palaʻau State Park. One of the highlights of the park is the don’t-miss Kalaupapa Overlook, which offers a magnificent view of the Kalaupapa Peninsula from the edge of a 1600ft cliff.

Kauleonanahoa (the penis of Nanahoa) is Hawaii’s premier phallic stone, standing proud in a little clearing inside an ironwood grove in the park, about a five-minute walk from the parking area near the overlook. The legend goes that Nanahoa hit his wife Kawahuna in a jealous rage and, when they were both turned to stone, he came out looking like a dick, literally. (The stone has been sculpted through the years to emphasize its appearance.)

MOLOKAʻI’S TWO SAINTS

Father Damien (Joseph de Veuster), a Belgian priest, arrived at Kalaupapa in 1873. He found scores of people who’d been sent to the Hansen’s disease colony by a government that was simply unwilling to deal with their illness.

A talented carpenter, he built houses, nursed the sick and buried the dead. He died of Hansen’s disease (leprosy) in 1889 at the age of 49.

Sister Marianne Cope moved to Kalaupapa in 1888 to care for the patients of the colony. She remained there until her death from natural causes in 1918.

Father Damien was canonized in 2009, becoming the first American saint. His feast day is May 10.

Sister Marianne Cope, whose feast day is January 23, was canonized in 2012.

Kalaupapa National Historical Park TIME FROM KAUNAKAKAI: 15 MINS

Visit an isolated and magnificent spectacle

The spectacularly beautiful Kalaupapa Peninsula is the most remote part of Hawaii’s most isolated island. It’s part of the Kaluapapa National Historical Park, which is managed by the Hawaii State Department of Health and the National Park Service (NPS). The lush green peninsula is edged with long, white-sand beaches, overlooked by the world’s highest pali.

Its remoteness is why Hansen’s disease (the modern and less pejorative term for leprosy) patients were forced into isolation here. From the colony’s inception in 1866 until separation ended in 1969, 8000 patients were forced to come to Kalaupapa. Today, fewer than 10 residents remain. They have chosen to stay in the only home they have ever known and have resisted efforts to be moved away. Understandably, visits are tightly controlled and must be arranged in advance through a resident-owned tour company. However, the peninsula was closed to visits during the pandemic and has been slow to reopen; check with the NPS for the current situation.

There is an interesting collection of colonial-era structures here, including the 1872 St Philomena Church and memorials to Molokaʻi’s two saints: Father Damien and Sister Marianne Cope, who worked tirelessly in the colony to aid the patients.

When possible, access to Kalaupapa is by plane from Honolulu or Molokaʻi Airport. It can also be accessed by land, via a very challenging 3.5-mile trail with 26 switchbacks, 1400 steps and a 1664ft drop in elevation from the trailhead near Palaʻau State Park.

Maunaloa TIME FROM KAUNAKAKAI: 30 MINS

Visit a forgotten town

In the 1990s, the Molokaʻi Ranch attempted to turn this old plantation-era town into a tourist town, but now the hotel, the luxury beach campsite, the cinema and the fast-food outlet are long shuttered. The best reason to visit is Big Wind Kite Factory, who custom make kites for high fliers of all ages. It also has hundreds ready to go in stock, as well as an excellent selection of Hawaii-themed books, artwork, clothing and crafts.

West End’s Beaches TIME FROM KAUNAKAKAI: 35–45 MINS

Untrod sandy escapes

Several wild and wooly beaches can be reached by roads in and around the forlorn Kaluakoi Resort area. Kawakiu Beach – Kaluakoi’s northernmost – is the best. Those with a sense of adventure can search out this secluded crescent of white sand and bright turquoise waters. It’s partially sheltered from the winds, and when seas are calm, it’s good for swimming and has a natural rocky pool. Kepuhi Beach is a mesmerizing, rocky, white-sand dream, but swimming here can be a nightmare. There’s a tough shore break and strong currents, even on calm days. A five-minute hike to the top of Puʻu o Kaiaka, a 110ft-high promontory at the southern end, rewards with good views.

The light-hued sands of Papohaku Beach run for an astounding 2.5 miles. Come here for the solitude – the sand is soft, and you can often stroll from one end to the other without seeing another soul. But don’t swim here: there’s a tangle of unpredictable currents. A park at the north end has facilities.

At the south end, Kapukahehu Beach is a narrow round inlet that is also called ‘Dixie Maru,’ named after a ship that sank here long ago. It’s the most protected cove on the west end, and the most popular swimming and snorkeling area. It has shade and picnic tables.

REMOTE & PROTECTED

The Hawaii Nature Conservancy protects two remote areas on Molokaʻi. Both are difficult to access but can offer incomparable experiences for hardcore adventurers.

In the Kamakou Preserve, the rugged Pepeʻopae Trail is the star attraction. It ends at the Pelekunu Valley Overlook, where you’ll see the fantastic depths and the ocean beyond. However, reaching this area requires a 4WD and even then the 10-mile-long road is often impassable.

Managed by Hawaiian elders as well as the Nature Conservancy, Moʻomomi Beach is not lushly beautiful, but windswept, lonely and wild. The road to this desolate part of the island’s northwest is also often inaccessible, even with 4WD.

It’s essential to check conditions in advance with the Nature Conservancy office in Molokaʻi.

Kalaupapa Peninsula | Douglas Peebles Photography/Alamy Stock Photo ©

TOOLKIT

The chapters in this section cover the most important topics you’ll need to know about in Maui. They’re full of nuts-and-bolts information and valuable insights to help you understand and navigate Maui and get the most out of your trip.

Lanaʻi | GDVCOM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Arriving

Getting Around

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travelers

Accessible Travel

Language

Nuts & Bolts

Arriving

Visitors will arrive in and depart from Maui through Kahului International Airport, as it is the only airport on the island that accommodates direct flights from the contiguous US. Kahului Airport has two terminals: the main terminal and the commuter terminal. The commuter terminal serves interisland trips through the Mokulele Express and Makani Kai domestic carriers.

FUSE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Clothing

Maui is warm year-round and very humid. Wear clothes that will keep you cool, and feel free to change at the airport before exploring the island.

Bring a Pen

Before landing on Maui, it is common for airlines to have you sign an agriculture form stating that you’re not bringing any fruit or vegetables to the islands.

Rental Cars & Bus Service

Most people rent a car on arrival. Once you get to baggage claim, hop on the tram to get to the rental-car center. Public bus services are limited.

Private Shuttles

Book ahead for the shuttle vans of Hawaii Executive Transportation and Speedi Shuttle. The latter carries surfboards.

MR.RAWIN TANPIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HOLD ON TO YOUR HAT!

If the turbulence during your landing wasn’t enough of an indicator, Maui is a very windy place – something that takes many visitors by surprise. As soon as you get off the plane, hold onto your hat (or anything else that could potentially fly away). The airport and the surrounding area are especially windy – expect gusts year-round. Maui is made up of two mountains on opposite sides of the island, essentially creating a wind tunnel in the middle, right where the airport is located.

From the Airport to Popular Destinations

Getting Around

You can get around Maui via public transportation, but renting a car makes everything much more accessible. Popular destinations and scenic routes are spread throughout Maui.

TRAVEL COSTS

Car Rental

Around $50/day

Gas

c $4.70/gallon

Bus ticket

$2

Parking

Free–$5/hour

Be Friendly

When driving, wave thank you or throw a shaka (Hawaiian hand greeting) if someone yields or lets you merge. This is a common and important practice among locals, and it can be seen as rude if you don’t show your appreciation.

Rush Hour

The roads are busy on weekdays from 7am to 9am, when people are going to school and work, and in the afternoons from 2pm to 4pm, when people are returning home. You can plan around these times to avoid potential traffic.

TOYOTAS EVERYWHERE!

For some reason, the most popular vehicle on Maui is a Toyota pickup truck – specifically, the Toyota Tacoma. There’s lots of speculation as to why Toyotas are so popular: the large number of Asians who live here, the large number of surfers who live here (they need the bed space), the indispensable 4WD, and Toyota’s reliable reputation. Either way, you’ll see plenty of Tacomas on the road, each customized to the owner’s liking, from colored rims to surfboard racks.

Cell Service

There are areas on Maui where cell service is hard to get. If you’re going to a remote location, like a hike or a waterfall, download a map or print one out just in case.

Pull Over

There are plenty of sights to see from the road, like whales breaching in the ocean. If you want to take a photo, please pull over. If there’s no place to pull over, do not slow down traffic.

Other Options

Rideshare services are available, but not as common as on the continent. Taxis are another good option, but they may be expensive. Alternatively, tour buses also take visitors to popular destinations on Maui, like the Road to Hana. Public buses can get you between the main areas.

TIP

If you’re driving in rural area and a local is driving behind you, pull over and let them pass.

GEORGE MDIVANIAN /EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

DRIVING ESSENTIALS

Drive on the right

The maximum speed limit is 55mph

9hr

It takes nine hours to drive around Maui.

Money

CURRENCY: USD ($)

DZHA33/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tipping

Tipping is important, as the minimum wage is low relative to the cost of living. It’s common to tip shuttle drivers, bellhops, valets and so on.

Cash

Roadside shops and market vendors may only take cash, so keep some handy. You’ll find ATMs at most grocery stores, shopping centers and convenience stores.

Digital Payment

In place of cash, some market vendors also accept Venmo or PayPal, so having these apps on your phone is useful. Some businesses do take Apple Pay, but it’s more likely you’ll have to use a credit card or pay with cash.

Banks

Major banks such as the Bank of Hawaii and First Hawaiian Bank have ATM networks throughout Maui that give cash advances on major credit cards and allow cash withdrawals with affiliated ATM cards. Although it is part of the US, banks found on the mainland aren’t commonly found on Maui.

HOW MUCH FOR…

A plate lunch

$13

National park entry

$30

Spam musubi

$2–3

Shave ice

$7

WHY IS EVERYTHING SO EXPENSIVE?

You might notice that almost everything is pricey on Maui – groceries, gas, restaurants and even souvenirs. On top of that, goods and items are rarely sold at their exact price because of sales tax. So why are things so expensive?

The main reason is that Maui has to import a lot of its goods. Produce that is grown on the island, meanwhile, is higher quality and often organic – thus it also costs more. Other items for sale may be handmade.

Hotels, mean-while, tend to be costly because of high demand and limited supply.

How to…  Spend Money Wisely

Even though Maui can be expensive, there are a few things you can do to make those dollars last.

First, don’t buy cheap souvenirs. It’s better to buy a souvenir that’s authentic and higher quality. Second, do your research and shop around for experiences you want to try: there may be cheaper, better options. Finally, avoid shopping in common tourist destinations and try to visit local mom-and-pop stores instead.

UNITED STATES MINT, PUBLIC DOMAIN, VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS ©, JOHN FLANAGAN (PUBLISHED BY US MINT), PUBLIC DOMAIN, VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS ©

Local tip

Shop local, at places like farmers markets, where things may be cheaper.

When something is expensive, consider whether or not it is handmade. If it is, then know you are paying for the creator’s time and effort.

Accommodation

Hotels

Hotels are found all over the island, with various price points determined by room size, views and amenities. Hotels that are beachside with ocean views will definitely be pricier than hotels in the middle of the island or close to the airport. Many hotels come with general amenities like a pool, Jacuzzi, gym, and shampoo and conditioner.

Resorts

Resorts are usually near the ocean in the more touristy parts of the island. They are sprawling and expensive complexes, decorated with lush landscaping and winding sidewalks that lead to different hotel towers and amenities. They often have ballrooms, fancy restaurants, space for a luau, multiple pools and children’s programs.

Hostels

Hostels are often located in less touristy areas. Although hostels are generally a cheaper option, on Maui, they can still be pricey. Most come with a free breakfast and other amenities that make them worth it, however. Hostels are also great for community-oriented folks, and some even lead free group activities that immerse travelers in island culture.

B&Bs & Vacation Rentals

These options are usually in neighborhoods away from touristy areas. Some accept reservations only through agencies, and others require a minimum stay of a few days. Like elsewhere where housing supply is limited, vacation rentals in Maui have come under increasing scrutiny as residents have been priced out of the real estate market.

HOW MUCH FOR A NIGHT IN...

A resort

$1000

A hotel

$250–600

A hostel

$60–180

Ryan McVay/Getty Images ©

Camping & Cabins

There are many campgrounds on Maui, all with various price points – not to mention the price of camping gear. Although it’s not really ‘roughing it,’ staying in a cabin is another nice way to be out in the elements. There are a few cabins at Haleakalā National Park that you have to hike to (Palikū Cabin & Campground; Kapalaoa Cabin; Hōlua Cabin & Campground), and there are even glamping-style tentalows at Camp Oluwalu.

PRICED OUT OF PARADISE

Though living on an island sounds tempting, the more outsiders who move to Maui, the less of a paradise it becomes. Locals and Native Hawaiians consider moving to Maui to be a selfish act – especially when outsiders buy property and live there for only a few months in a year. Maui has limited space, so the people who move to the island displace locals and Native Hawaiians and increase the cost of living. Developers, meanwhile, are always pushing to build more, paving over the very things that make Maui so special. As a result, many locals and Native Hawaiians wind up moving to the continent, resulting in a watered-down local culture.

Family Travel

Children are welcome everywhere on Maui. Hawaiians love kids – they are an integral part of the scenery. Maui has everything for children on vacation: sandy beaches, fun hotel pools, tasty food and outdoor activities galore. The island also offers cool cross-cultural opportunities, from hula lessons to outrigger-canoe rides.

Snorkeling

Fantastic underwater sights are just a few kicks from the shore. A snorkeling trip to Molokini is another great way to spend the day outdoors. Many different boat companies run trips, with different features like slides, jumping areas and floating platforms. Some boats serve a free lunch, while others will have you pay for a snack, so be sure to shop around.

Beaches

There are a few beaches that have earned the name ‘Baby Beach,’ meaning that the water is calm and shallow. Beach parks like Launiupoko have small pools separated from the ocean for kids to play in.

Animals

Activities with animals are fun for everyone in the family. One example is Cat Cafe Maui, where you can enjoy a drink, play with cats and shop in the boutique. There will generally be around 15 to 20 cats in the room at once. The East Maui Animal Refuge, also known as the Boo Boo Zoo, is a great place to see a variety of animals.

Indoor Fun

If you need to get out of the sun, go indoors. The Ultimate Air Trampoline Park is good for burning off energy, and it’s air conditioned. Museums and escape rooms are also great for engaging your brain.

KID-FRIENDLY PICKS

Maui Ocean Center

Tour the center to learn about sea life in Hawaii and beyond.

Maui Golf & Sports Park

Mini golf, rock climbing, bumper boats and an X-treme trampoline.

Maui Butterfly Farm

Walk into a butterfly flight house to interact with these colorful insects.

Maui Tropical Plantation

Feed the ducks, spot turtles and ride the tram.

Island Art Party

Express your artistic side by signing up for a live-painting tutorial.

RASTKO BELIC/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

KEIKI

You may hear or see the word keiki when traveling around Hawaii. Pronounced kay-kee, it means ‘child.’ For example, a restaurant menu will often have a keiki (kids’) menu.

You’ll also see keiki used for things that have different sizes. For example, a small shave ice might be called keiki, and children’s T-shirts may be in the keiki section. If you’re booking an experience and trying to find the kids’ prices, look for the word keiki.

Learning a few basic Hawaiian words like this will be helpful for your trip.

Health & Safe Travel

NATURAL DISASTERS

Flash floods, rockfalls, tsunamis, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions are all possibilities in Maui. Though they aren’t frequent, know that they can and have happened. Hurricanes are common, and big ones happen at least once a year. Maui’s dry landscape is also susceptible to wildfires, like the devastating catastrophe that took place in August 2023. The key piece of advice? Pay attention to your surroundings.

Flash Floods

If you’re hiking near a stream or going to a waterfall, ensure that the area is not prone to flash floods. A flash flood occurs rapidly and often catches people off guard. It’s typically caused by heavy rain, but can also occur from dam breaks or mudslides. Hikers caught in flash floods have been washed out to sea.

Strong Currents

The ocean is a powerful entity, with shifting tides and strong currents. Even those swimming near the shore have been swept away. Every year, numerous ocean rescues and drownings occur at Maui’s beaches. If you aren’t a strong swimmer, make sure you find a calm beach or a beach with a lifeguard.

FARAKOS/GETTY IMAGES ©

TIP: SUNBURN

Protect both yourself and the ocean by wearing reef-safe sunscreen.

SWIM SAFELY

DONNY HAHN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Slippery rocks

ANDY DEAN PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

High surf

IMAGEBROKER/VALERIA VENEZIA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Dangerous shorebreak

PGIAM/GETTY IMAGES ©

Strong current

Shark Attacks

Shark attacks happen more frequently on Maui than any other Hawaiian island. It’s important to be aware of which beaches have had recent shark sightings or attacks. Though shark attacks can be unpredictable, there are little things you can do to mitigate a shark attack, like not swimming alone, and avoiding murky water.

HEALTHCARE

Maui’s highest level trauma center is Maui Memorial Medical Center, which is a level III. This means that the hospital provides a range of care but has limits. In the event of a life-threatening emergency, you will need to be flown to Oʻahu for treatment at a level I or II trauma center.

Food, Drink & Nightlife

When to Eat

ʻAina kakahiaka (breakfast, 6am to 11am) typically includes meat like Portuguese sausage or Spam, eggs and rice.

ʻAina awakea (lunch, noon to 2pm) is usually a plate lunch or poke bowl.

ʻAina ahiahi (dinner, 5pm to 9pm) is something more elaborate and representative of the various cultures in Hawaii.

Where to Eat

Top-end restaurants Fine-dining locations that infuse Hawaiian culture into dishes.

Sushi restaurants Places that primarily serve sushi with high-quality fish and seafood.

Breweries Typically serves elevated bar food.

Food trucks Often located in a gravel lot near other food trucks. Known as kaukau (food) wagons.

Local restaurants Casual diner that serves local favorites.

Groceries You’ll find local specialties such as poke bowls and Spam musubi at most of them.

Cafes Engaging settings at a fair price.

ANDYD/GETTY IMAGES ©

MENU DECODER

Adobo Filipino chicken or pork

Ahi Tuna

Bento Japanese-style box lunch

Grindz food (usually local)

Haupia Coconut pudding

Huli-huli chicken Grilled chicken

Iʻa Fish

Kālua pig Shredded pork

Katsu Breaded with panko and fried

Kona mud pie/hula pie Cookie crust, ice cream, hot fudge, nuts and cream

Laulau Meat wrapped in taro leaf

Lilikoʻi Passion fruit

Loco moco Rice, hamburger, gravy and a fried egg

Lomi-lomi salmon Diced and salted salmon, tomatoes and onions

Manapua Bun with various fillings

Moa Chicken

ʻŌpakapaka Snapper

Poke Diced raw fish

Poi Steamed and mashed taro root

Puaʻa Pig

Pupu Appetizer

Saimin Noodle soup

Shave ice Finely shaved ice doused with sweet syrup

Spam musubi Fried Spam and rice wrapped in seaweed

How to…  Do a Luau

A luau consists of Hawaiian food and entertainment. Many visitors like to attend luau to get a glimpse of Hawaiian culture. Luau are meant to be fun and positive. You’ll want to look your best in a casual, yet dressy way. Wearing a nice aloha shirt or a flowy dress is appropriate.

Upon entering the luau, you may be given a flower, kukui nut or shell lei. You will most likely be seated outside with a view of the sunset while you eat your Hawaiian dinner. You’ll be entertained with live music, hula dancers, other Polynesian dances and maybe even fire dancers. Give your best chee hoo (cheer) and applause after each show, and near the end, yell hana hou (‘encore!’) to get one last performance.

HOW MUCH FOR…

Poke bowl

$10

Scoop of ice cream

$5

Food truck meal

$15

Gourmet dinner

$60

Cocktail

$12–$18

Beer

$8–$10

Glass of wine

$10–$20

How to…  Find Great Food Trucks

Getting a meal from a food truck on Maui is just as popular as getting a meal at a restaurant. Across the island, there are gravel lots dedicated to food trucks, and picnic tables where customers can sit down. Although going to a food truck is simple and casual, you can get high-quality, organic and even fancy dishes. The majority of Maui’s food trucks take cash, credit cards and Apple Pay, making them very convenient.

Finding a food truck is pretty simple: you’ll most likely pass a few as you’re driving along – just look for a congregation of trucks. However, if you want a specific place, the food truck’s social media should have the information you need, including their location, opening hours and menu. Some stay in the same place, while others move around, so be sure to stay up-to-date.

It seems as if more and more food trucks are popping up around the island, and though there is no one reason why, the cheaper overheads are likely a major driver behind the phenomenon: the cost of a truck and parking fees are considerably less than leasing a restaurant. Many food trucks are owned and operated by local families; considering the high cost of living in Maui, it makes sense that business owners would go for a cheap, simple option like a food truck.

Tim UR/Shutterstock ©

Opening Hours

Many food trucks are open all day for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Food truck lots typically have good lighting so that people can dine even after the sun sets.

KAPU

In ancient Hawaii, Hawaiians had a stratified social structure where aliʻi (royalty) held power. To keep this hierarchy in place and to ensure harmony with the land, they had what was called a kapu system. In Hawaiian, kapu means ‘taboo,’ ‘prohibited,’ ‘forbidden’ or ‘sacred.’ The kapu system was an established set of rules and regulations that dictated certain aspects of daily life, and breaking kapu meant execution.

One significant aspect of the kapu system dealt with food and eating. It restricted ‘free eating,’ or the ability for men and women to eat the same foods, and eat together. Women were restricted from eating pork, coconuts and most varieties of bananas because those foods were symbolically associated with male gods.

The kapu system lasted throughout Kamehameha I’s life, until he died in 1819. Kaʻahumanu, Kamehameha I’s favorite wife, took this opportunity to instigate reform and abolish kapu, as many of the rules put constraints on women. Now that Kamehameha II was in power, Kaʻahumanu, who was his adviser, worked with him and his mother Keopuolani, who was the highest-ranking chieftess, to bring kapu to an end.

They targeted the eating kapu to break the system. At a big feast, the women and men were separated as usual. However, Kamehameha II ordered attendants to bring prohibited food to the women’s table, at which he sat down and ate, breaking kapu.

From that point on, kapu restrictions were lifted.

Responsible Travel

Climate Change & Travel

It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when traveling, and the importance of making changes where we can. Lonely Planet urges all travelers to engage with their travel carbon footprint. There are many carbon calculators online that allow travelers to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey; try resurgence.org/resources/carbon-calculator.html. Many airlines and booking sites offer travelers the option of offsetting the impact of greenhouse gas emissions by contributing to climate-friendly initiatives around the world. We continue to offset the carbon footprint of all Lonely Planet staff travel, while recognizing this is a mitigation more than a solution.

lovelyday12/Shutterstock ©

Molokaʻi’s Sign

On Molokaʻi, you’ll spot a handmade sign that reads: ‘Visit. Spend. Go home.’ This sign encompasses the attitude of some locals toward visitors, following a rocky history of foreigners in Hawaii.

Take Only Pictures, Leave Only Footprints

Avoid taking home rocks, sand and other pieces of nature. It is said that taking a lava rock brings you bad luck. Superstitious or not, it’s best not to mess with the natural environment.

CREATISTA/Getty Images ©

If you would like to make an impact, consider volunteering. Not only will you meet locals and learn about Maui, but you may get to access places other visitors can’t. Check out Hawaiian Airline’s online list of Maui’s ‘voluntourism’ opportunities.

Help Hawaii from afar by encouraging responsible travel to the people you know who are going there. Educate them on helpful things you learned and spread the resources.

Cultural Sites

You may notice small sites blocked off around Maui. These often indicate ancient burial sites or cultural areas. Please show reverence and respect, and don’t climb past blockades or over fences.

Support the Native Hawaiians

Many visitors ask how they can help Hawaiians or counteract the effects of their trip. Donating to Native Hawaiian nonprofits is a great way to show support because they do good political, environmental and social work.

Preserve the Land

When hiking, preserve the beautiful trails by avoiding the ones that are deteriorating due to high foot traffic. Don’t wander off the trails, as this will increase erosion and cause unwanted trail widening and braiding.

Get Educated

Context matters when traveling to Hawaii, so read up on the history beforehand to gain a better understanding of the culture and its relationship with the US.

Don’t Shy Away from Culture

Enrich your traveling experience by taking tours led by Native Hawaiians or meeting with your hotel’s Native Hawaiian cultural adviser. This way, you’ll learn about Hawaiian culture through numerous activities.

Positive Talk

Many locals struggle with the cost of living and unsustainable tourism. Show your awareness and appreciation by avoiding phrases like ‘I deserve x because I spent x amount of money.’

Affected Communities

Many communities have been affected by natural disasters. Although devastation can be a spectacle, avoid rubbernecking or taking photos of affected communities out of respect.

Keep a distance from animals such as turtles and seals who are resting on the beaches.

Follow Native Hawaiian nonprofits on social media and share their posts.

alia.kurianova/Shutterstock ©

Plastic Bans

Hawaii has banned the use of plastic bags, styrofoam foodware, plastic containers, plastic cups, plastic lids and single-use plastic servicewear like straws, stirrers and utensils. Businesses must use paper and plant-based compostable products.

RESOURCES
kaainamomona.org/nativehawaiiannonprofits

Check out a list of Native Hawaiian nonprofits.

gohawaii.com/voluntourism

Learn about volunteer opportunities during your trip.

nps.gov/locations/hawaii/history.htm

Brush up on Hawaiian history.

LGBTIQ+ Travelers

As the first state to legalize gay marriage, Hawaii is pretty welcoming to LGBTIQ+ travelers. Even in ancient Hawaiian culture, people were accepting of how others identified. However, it’s not uncommon to come across traditional religious folks who will make unfriendly remarks. The general consensus is that as long as you’re respectful of the culture and not obnoxious, you’ll be fine, no matter how you identify.

Outlook in Hawaiian Culture

Being accepting of identity is embedded in Hawaiian culture. There are no gender-specific pronouns in the Hawaiian language, and ancient Hawaiians even had the word māhū, which means homosexual, and moe aikāne, which refers to partners of the same gender. In general, there was a fluid sense of sexuality and gender in ancient Hawaii. If a male wanted to live an active life as a female, there was no shame. Not only did people tolerate māhū, but they also saw māhū as legitimate contributors to the community.

ALEXANDER SPATARI/GETTY IMAGES ©

GAY WEDDINGS

Gay Hawaii Wedding is a LGBTIQ+ owned wedding business based in Maui. They express how gay-friendly the island is and advocate for marriage equality. Gay Hawaii Wedding offers officiants, photographers, wedding planning, license information and more. Ceremonies can be performed in any religious context and are typically held on beaches during beautiful sunsets.

Western Influence

It wasn’t until Western contact that homosexuality and gender fluidity became stigmatized. When New England missionaries started settling in the islands, they enforced their beliefs on the local population, including the idea that sex was shameful. Māhū were pushed out of the picture and a more dualistic belief system (separation of the human and the divine) became common.

Contemporary Outlook

Today, Maui’s diverse mix of cultures and religions has muddled the general outlook on the LGBTIQ+ community. However, the general consensus is that people are accepting and supportive of LGBTIQ+ individuals. Some people may adhere to a more conservative perspective of gender and sexuality, but even then, the aloha spirit is prevalent and they are hospitable.

PRIDE FESTIVAL

Maui has an annual pride festival that blends the community, vendors, artists, organizations and Hawaiian traditions through LGBTIQ+ culture. The event is run by nonprofit organization Aloha Maui Pride. Due to the Lahaina Wildfire, the event dates have changed, so stay updated online.

Little Beach

Little Beach is a clothing-optional beach in Makena that is LGTBIQ+ friendly. You’ll have to park alongside the road and hike to access it, but the beach is secluded. The majority of the time, people are friendly and the atmosphere comfortable.

Accessible Travel

Maui has decent infrastructure for travelers with disabilities, and most public places comply with the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) regulations. Many of the major resort hotels have elevators, TTD-capable phones and wheelchair-accessible rooms, while major car-rental companies will install hand controls and provide accessible transportation to the vehicle pickup site.

Life’s a Beach

Water activities aren’t off the table for those with accessibility needs. Companies like Lahaina Divers are equipped to guide accessible scuba-diving experiences.

Sky High

Blue Hawaiian runs helicopter tours throughout Maui. Their bases are wheelchair accessible and they have chairlifts that can assist passengers up to 250lbs to board the helicopter safely. They are also ADA compliant.

Accommodation

Maui Accessible Condo is lodging specifically tailored to those who need wheelchair accessibility. Owned by a wheelchair user, the place has features like a roll-in shower, roll-under sink, ADA-compliant bed and more.

PARKING

Accessible parking is not a problem in Hawaii, and there’s almost always a spot open for those with parking needs.

Hiking

Certain hikes may not be accessible on Maui, as they can traverse remote locations and rough terrain. There are a limited number of accessible hikes, so do your research in advance. A good resource is AllTrails (alltrails.com), which has a list of wheelchair-friendly hikes.

BEACH ACCESS

There aren’t walkways at every beach on Maui, so consider going to a beach park like Launiupoko, where the ground is even and there’s not too much sand. The Kealia Coastal Boardwalk is also accessible for those with mobility needs.

RESOURCES
adaptivemaui.com

Adaptive Maui offers services like accessible beach rentals and adaptive tours that range from surf lessons and snorkeling to stand-up paddleboarding.

health.hawaii.gov Kahului International Airport provides a range of assistance for travelers with mobility, visual and hearing needs. Scan the QR code below for accessible traveler tips.

interpretinghawaii.com

Hawaiʻi Interpreting Services provides services for deaf, hard of hearing and deaf–blind people.

Language

Hawaii is the only state with two official languages: English and Hawaiian. Hawaiian is the native tongue of Hawaii and resembles other Polynesian languages like Tahitian, Marquesan and Samoan.

Basics

Howzit Hello

Shoots Sounds good; bye

Cherreh Something good

Bumbai Or else

Braddah A man

Choke A lot

Da kine Used to mean whatever the speaker wants

Holoholo Cruise around

Pau Done

Rajah Pidgin version of ‘roger that’

Words and Phrases

Aloha Hello, love

A hui hou Goodbye, until we meet again

Consonants

Hawaiian only has eight consonants: h, k, l, m, n, p, w and the ʻokina. In general, they make the same sounds as the English consonants. The ʻokina is a glottal stop that starts words and breaks up vowels.

Words

Words in Hawaiian are formed in a very specific way. One rule is that consonants are never next to each other (though vowels can be). Consonants are always broken up by a vowel or vowels. Another rule is that Hawaiian words always end with a vowel.

ʻAe Yes

ʻAʻole No
ke/e ʻoluʻolu Please

Mahalo Thank you

E kala mai Excuse me

Kala mai iaʻu I’m sorry

O wai kou inoa? What is your name?

O … koʻu inoa My name is …

E komo mai Welcome, come

Hana hou Encore, again

Pehea ‘oe? How are you?

Hau’oli Happy

Kāne Male

Wahine Female

Keiki Child

Kanaka Human being, person

Kanaka maoli Hawaiian native

Vowels

Hawaiian has five vowels: a, e, i, o and u. However, they are not pronounced the same way as in English. Hawaiian vowels sound more similar to Spanish vowels.

Pidgin

As you will likely notice, most people speak some sort of pidgin in Hawaii. This language is mostly English; however, it contains many words from the main cultures of the plantation era, as well as Hawaiian.

NUMBERS

1

ʻekahi

2

ʻelua

3

ʻekolu

4

ʻehā

5

ʻelima

6

ʻeono

7

ʻehiku

8

ʻewalu

9

ʻeiwa

10

ʻumi

Who Speaks Hawaiian?

Following the colonization of the islands, only a small amount of people still speak Hawaiian; however, Hawaiians are trying to bring it back. Hawaiian is only spoken in Hawaii if a Hawaiian has moved away and is speaking Hawaiian to others in their new place.

Nuts & Bolts

Celebrating Culture

Maui is so diverse that if there’s a niche holiday in your culture, it’s likely being celebrated on the island. A prime example of this is the Japanese celebrations of Hina Matsuri (Girls’ Day) and Tango no Sekku (Boys’ Day).

Smoking

Cigarettes and vaping are prohibited in enclosed public places and outdoor recreational settings such as the beach. You must be 21 years old to purchase and use tobacco products. Cannabis in Hawaii is illegal for recreational use.

Be Informed

Read the Maui News for local news or Hawaiʻi News Now for statewide news.

Breaking News

Maui 24/7 on Facebook and @maui247news on Instagram are the breaking news sources.

GOOD TO KNOW

Time zone

GMT-10 (HST)

Country code

1

Emergency number

911

Population

165,000

Electricity 120V/60Hz

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

New Year’s Day January 1

Martin Luther King Jr Day Third Monday of January

Presidents’ Day Third Monday of February

Prince Kūhiō Day March 26

Good Friday March or April

Memorial Day Last Monday of May

King Kamehameha I Day June 11

Independence Day July 4

Statehood Day Third Friday of August

Labor Day First Monday of September

Election Day First Tuesday in November in even-numbered years

Veterans’ Day November 11

Thanksgiving Fourth Thursday of November

Christmas Day December 25

THE MAUI

STORYBOOK

Our writers delve deep into different aspects of Maui life

A History of Maui in 15 Places

The story of Maui through its buildings and land

Savannah Rose Dagupion

Meet the People of Maui

Introducing Maui’s unique makeup

Savannah Rose Dagupion

The Lahaina Wildfire & Water Rights

Prioritizing water restoration and land revitalization

Savannah Rose Dagupion

Traveling with Aloha Spirit

How to travel thoughtfully while visiting Maui

Amy Balfour

The Maui Connection

Best ways to truly experience Maui

Malia Yoshioka

Woman in traditional costume | Pete Saloutos/Getty Images ©

A HISTORY OF MAUI IN

15 PLACES

Maui’s early history mirrors the rest of Hawaii’s, with warring chiefs, missionaries, colonization and sugarcane. More recently, tourism has become a driving economic force across Maui, and much of the state as a whole. By Savannah Rose Dagupion

BEING RESPECTFUL AND responsible should be a significant part of any trip, and it’s especially important in Hawaii. The islands’ complex history regarding colonization, occupation and development has prompted many Native Hawaiians and locals to have mixed feelings toward visitors.

The Kingdom of Hawaii was formally recognized as a sovereign nation that was united under the Hawaiian monarchy for years. However, on January 17, 1893, 13 white businessmen staged a coup against Queen Liliʻuolani, threatening an invasion backed by the US military if she didn’t surrender her government.

After the men successfully overthrew the kingdom, President Grover Cleveland deemed that the men had engaged in an ‘act of war’ and recommended that the Hawaiian monarchy be restored. Congress, however, rejected his proposal, and the men formed a provisional government, which pushed for annexation and ended the long line of Native Hawaiian monarchs.

In 1898, the US annexed Hawaii, ramping up the exploitation of its people and resources. Hawaii became a state in 1959 by popular vote; however, by that time, the majority of Hawaii’s citizens were non-native and Native Hawaiians only made up 17% of the population. Since then, Native Hawaiians have struggled to gain autonomy over their homeland.

1. Mauna Kahalawai & Haleakalā

IN THE BEGINNING…

Maui was formed by two volcanoes, Mauna Kahalawai and Haleakalā, about 1.5 million years ago. As the volcanoes erupted, layers and layers of lava built upon one another until the summits rose out of the water and formed the island.

The two volcanoes, which are now dormant, form two peaks on different sides of the island – Mauna Kahalawai in the west and Haleakalā in the east. Because of this, the central area is flat, hence Maui’s nickname, the Valley Isle.

For more on Haleakalā National Park, see here.

2. Maʻalaea Harbor

CROSSING THE PACIFIC

Around 1000 CE, Polynesians from the Marquesas Islands and Tahiti voyaged to Hawaii in outrigger and double-hulled waʻa (canoes) and settled across the islands.

These Polynesian voyagers were expert navigators, and used the stars, clouds, birds, wind, and wave patterns to find their way to land. When they settled, they created what is now known today as Hawaiian culture.

For more on Maʻalaea Harbor, see here.

3. La Pérouse Bay

EUROPEAN EXPLORERS

In 1786, Captain Jean François de Galaup, Comte de La Pérouse, was the first European to set foot on Maui’s shore. His legacy lives on in La Pérouse Bay. Also known by its Hawaiian name, Keoneʻōʻio, the bay is located past Kihei and Wailea, and is the southernmost place you can drive to on Maui. Jagged lava rocks span the landscape, though there are a few areas where the beach is accessible.

Hiking is a common activity here, and goats are commonly seen on the rocks. In the right conditions, swimming and snorkeling are both great.

For more on La Pérouse Bay, see here.

La Pérouse Bay | SAMUEL HOWELL/GETTY IMAGES ©

4. ʻIao Valley

THE BATTLE FOR UNIFICATION

In 1790, Kamehameha I (otherwise known as Kamehameha the Great) traveled to Maui to fulfill his conquest to unite the Hawaiian Islands. Maui’s mo‘i (king), Kahekili (Kahekilinuiʻahumanu), was on Oʻahu, so Kamehameha fought against Kahekili’s son, Kalanikupule. The battle lasted for days, and eventually ended in ʻIao Valley, when Kamehameha and his warriors triumphed.

There were so many casualties that the streams of ʻIao Valley were dammed and blocked by the bodies of dead warriors, prompting the event to be named the Battle of Kepaniwai, or the ‘Damming of the Waters.’ Kalanikupule escaped to Oʻahu, and Kamehameha continued his conquest of the islands.

For more on the ʻIao Valley, see here.

5. Lahaina

THE SEAT OF THE KINGDOM

After Kamehameha I united the islands, he ruled from Hawaiʻi island until his death in 1819. In 1820, his wife Keopuolani moved with their children to Lahaina, and the town was named the capital of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i. At this time, the kingdom had successful relationships with Europe and America, and missionaries and sailors flocked to the capital.

American missionaries created Lahainaluna High School, introduced the first printing press and printed the first newspaper west of the Rockies, Ka Lama, on February 14, 1834. Lahaina remained Hawaiʻi’s capital until 1845, when Honolulu became the new capital of the kingdom.

For more on Lahaina, see here.

6. Waiola Church

CHRISTIAN INFLUENCES

Waiola Church, located in Lahaina, is where Christianity took root on Maui. It was established in 1823 as Ebenezer Church but was later renamed to Waineʻe Church (‘moving water’) and then Waiola Church (‘living water’) in 1953.

In 1823, Queen Keopuolani took an interest in the missionaries and their teachings, and asked to meet with the reverends of the church to pray and speak the good word. Later that year, the queen fell ill, and her request to be baptized at the church was fulfilled just one hour before her death. She is buried in the Royal Tomb in the Waiola Church graveyard, alongside other members of the royal family.

For more on Lahaina, see here.

7. Whalers Village

WHEN WHALE OIL LIT THE WORLD

Although Whalers Village was built in 1970, it serves as a reminder of the booming whaling industry in the 1800s. Whaling in Lahaina started in the 1820s when the captains and crew would stop to rest on their journey back to North America. Crew would restock the ships and even hunt whales in the Hawaiian waters.

Lahaina remained a hub for whalers until the 1850s, when the industry went into decline. Thankfully, the whales did not: to this day, thousands of humpback whales travel to Maui in the winter to mate and give birth. Visitors can join whale-watching tours out of Lahaina.

FOR MORE ON LAHAINA, SEE HERE.

Whalers Village | EQROY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

8. Wailuku

THE GREAT MĀHELE

Ever since the first Polynesians arrived in Hawaii, Native Hawaiians have tended the land. Private ownership of property did not exist; instead, laws and rules were created to prohibit the desecration and abuse of resources. Everyone was entitled to a share of what was produced from the land and the sea.

When Westerners began moving to Hawaii, they introduced the concept of land ownership. In 1848, Kamehameha III felt pressure from foreigners to alter the distribution of land, thus initiating the Great Māhele, or land division. The Great Māhele was intended to protect Hawaii’s land, but Native Hawaiians were unfamiliar with the concept of ownership, and foreigners were able to displace many Hawaiian families who had cultivated the land for generations.

For more on Wailuku, see here.

9. Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum

SUGARCANE PLANTATIONS

After the Great Māhele, foreigners took advantage of their new landholdings to create what is known as the Big Five: the five largest agriculture and sugarcane companies in Hawaii.

The sugarcane industry on Maui quickly became the driving force of the economy, and plantations brought in migrant workers from China, Japan, Korea, the Philippines and Portugal. Hawaii acquired its reputation as a melting pot, and Hawaiian pidgin developed. The sugarcane industry slowed after Hawaii transitioned to a tourism-based economy after being annexed by the US. In 2016, Alexander & Baldwin’s last sugar mill in Hawaii shut its doors.

For more on the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum, see here.

10. Kahoʻolawe

A SACRED ISLAND

Off the coast of Maui is the small, uninhabited island of Kahoʻolawe. In 1941, after the attack on Pearl Harbor, the US army declared martial law and took control of Kahoʻolawe. The island, considered sacred to Native Hawaiians, was then used as target practice by the military for World War II. Native Hawaiians protested, and some were even lost at sea trying to protect Kahoʻolawe.

After the bombing stopped in 1990, Congress voted to give the island back to the state. Unfortunately, the blasts were so powerful that it cracked Kahoʻolawe’s water table, making it even more uninhabitable. Today, organizations and crews are working to restore the island.

For more on Kahoʻolawe, see here.

11. Kula

THE IMPACT OF INVASIVE SPECIES

In 1867, axis deer were given as a gift to King Kamehameha IV and released on Molokai. In 1959 they were introduced to Maui. Since then, the deer have taken Maui County by storm – there are now over 60,000 on the island, living predominantly in the Upcountry regions like Kula. Considered a major invasive species, the deer have decimated once-plentiful forests and knocked the native ecosystem out of balance. Without forests, Maui has also lost the ability to retain fresh water, leading to increased aridity and drought.

For more on Kula, see here.

12. Wailea

TOURISM & DEVELOPMENT

Turning Maui into a top tourist destination became the next step for business owners and political leaders as the economic impact of sugarcane and agriculture declined. This led to the development of resort areas like Kaʻanapali and Wailea in the 1960s. These small towns are packed tightly with hotels, resorts, shopping centers, golf courses and expensive homes. Tourism is a major part of Maui’s economy to this day.

For more on Wailea, see here.

13. Honokahua

A SACRED BURIAL SITE

In 1987, developers began excavating the Honokahua area to build the Ritz-Carlton Resort. Here, they discovered an ancient Hawaiian burial ground, and approximately 1100 ʻiwi kūpuna (ancestral bones), from 950 CE to the 1700s, were exhumed.

In Hawaiian culture, ancestors are highly valued and respected. They are typically buried in an area significant to them, which shows the importance of ʻiwi kūpuna and how they symbolize the indigenous population’s connection to the land.

The digging caused mass desecration of the burial site, prompting many Native Hawaiians to protest the development of the resort. Eventually, the resort agreed to restore the area and move to another site.

In 1990, unmarked burials in Hawaii were given the same protection as modern cemeteries.

For more on Honokahua, see here.

14. Kihei

OVERPOPULATION & INFLATION

From the 1970s until today, real estate development has been booming on Maui. As visitor numbers surged from the 1970s through the 1990s, hotel units continued to increase. This, in turn, led to a population increase with people from around the world flocking to Maui for work. Subdivisions and housing grew to accommodate the growth, which led to a higher cost of living and the displacement of the indigenous population. One example of Maui’s population boom was the opening of a new high school in Kihei in 2023.

For more on Kihei, see here.

15. West & Upcountry Maui

A NATURAL DISASTER

On August 8, 2023, two wildfires roared across the island: one in West Maui and another in Upcountry Maui. High winds from a nearby hurricane caused the fires to move quickly, burning thousands of acres of land. The confirmed death toll was 115 people, and the search for victims was completed on August 28, 2023, despite there being hundreds of individuals still missing.

This natural disaster ranks among the deadliest in American history, and many groups and organizations reached out to displaced residents to provide aid.

For more on the wildfires, see here.

MEET THE

PEOPLE OF MAUI

Expect to meet a diverse, eclectic bunch of people. At their core, you’ll see the love and passion they hold for Maui. Savannah Rose Dagupion introduces her people.

Hawaiian entertainer in Wailea | DEBRA BEHR/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

THE CULTURE OF Maui is best described as a melting pot; it has been this way for almost 200 years. People of various ethnic and cultural backgrounds make up the population of Maui and have found ways to integrate and share their customs with one another.

Maui’s unique makeup is mainly due to the plantation era. Starting in the 1800s, people from around the world immigrated to Hawaii to work in the sugarcane fields. Most workers were Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Filipino or Portuguese. It is from this mix that Hawaii’s pidgin language developed. Today, there are few full-blooded Hawaiians; most people are of mixed ethnicity.

Aside from ethnic background, the people of Maui enjoy the happy medium that the island is: for example, it’s not as developed as Oʻahu, but it’s more developed than Hawaiʻi (the Big Island). This makes for a laid-back place to live that still has plenty of things to do and places to see.

Traditional dancing | FATCAMERA/GETTY IMAGES ©

With Maui being the second-biggest island, it’s no surprise that its regions all tell a different story, from the people to the way the place was developed. Like all other Hawaiian islands, the high school that you attended or the town that you are from is very telling of your regional character. These are usually the first questions that locals will ask one another.

As for Lanaʻi and Molokaʻi, these residents enjoy remote, smaller islands. For locals, it is common to partake in fishing, hunting or other outdoor activities.

As shown after the August 2023 wildfires, the people of Maui are resilient and community-driven. During the fires, civilians helped others to evacuate, even those they didn’t know. After the fires, community members and groups provided resources and carried out repairs before government aid kicked in. Even months later, people were still raising money, donating items and bringing awareness to the plight of residents.

Lahaina resident Annelise Cochran speaking after the wildfire | PATRICK T. FALLON/AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

For Native Hawaiians and locals, there’s a sense of pride being from Maui, and there’s significance placed on protecting the environment and the culture.

Many like to ‘stay rooted,’ remembering Native Hawaiian practices and applying them to the modern day. Hawaiians and locals often take on activism roles and can be seen fighting against the colonialism and capitalism that harm the true nature of the island and the people.

The people of Maui are hardworking, and are constantly battling against high costs of living and the ever-climbing cost of owning a home. They are hospitable and always open to sharing their culture with visitors.

Despite what they have been through, the people of Maui are friendly, welcoming and will often put the needs of others first.

Keeaumoku Kapu, founder of the Nā ‘Aikāne o Maui Cultural Center | MENGSHIN LIN FOR THE WASHINGTON POST VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

Who’s Who?

‘Hawaiian’ or ‘Native Hawaiian’ refers to the ethnic group indigenous to the Hawaiian Islands. ‘Local’ refers to people who have lived in Hawaii their whole lives or are longtime residents.

KUʻU HOME (MY HOME)

Maui will always be my one true home. I was born and raised here and only lived elsewhere when I went to the continent for college.

I am a proud Native Hawaiian and come from a line of ancestors who have lived on the Hawaiian islands for many generations. This is an identity I hold dearly, as Native Hawaiians have worked hard to revive and reignite our culture, which was once almost lost.

The North Shore is special to me, as I grew up in Pā‘ia and have family there. In high school, I moved to Kula. Like many people on the island, I am mixed. Other than Hawaiian, I am Chinese, Filipino and Portuguese, and was raised with the customs from each culture. I have relatives who immigrated from these countries and spoke these languages. However, I was raised speaking English and Hawaiian.

THE LAHAINA WILDFIRE

& WATER RIGHTS

How the Maui wildfires boil down to the water. By Savannah Rose Dagupion

BETWEEN THE RIDGES of the West Maui Mountains and above the town of Lahaina is the Kauaʻula Valley, home to numerous Native Hawaiian families, including the Palakikos.

The Palakikos live on their ancestral land – a property accessible by dirt roads and surrounded by lush native trees and plants. The sound of trickling water resonates as it flows through their kalo (taro) patches, fed by the adjacent stream. The water is cool and fresh, coming straight from the mountain above.

According to Daniel Ku’uleialoha Palakiko, ‘The sun’s rays greet us every morning from over the slopes of Mauna Kahalawai. Then it says goodnight as we watch it set beyond the ocean horizon.’

But according to residents, living in this valley asks for more than having a secluded area where you can build your house and raise a family: ‘The area requires more of a vigilant protectorship of our various rights [as Native Hawaiians],’ Palakiko explains.

Because their property runs along the river, the Palakikos work with federal agencies to prevent water overuse and mismanagement. The family also ensures their Native Hawaiian access and gathering rights are used to mālama (take care of) the ʻaina (land).

However, conversations surrounding Native Hawaiian rights, development, and water mismanagement and diversion have grown in the wake of the devastating Lahaina Wildfire. Palakiko has been working to aid families and educate the public on how the recent disaster boils down to water rights.

Background

According to Palakiko, the biggest scourge to come between Native Hawaiians and their land was the plantation era, when water management fell into the hands of plantation owners.

After the Hawaiian Kingdom was established in 1810, once Kamehameha I united all the islands, many foreigners noticed the value and beauty of Hawaii’s land. They started businesses here and introduced concepts such as land ownership and leasing – a contrast to Hawaiian ideologies, in which no one owns the land and everyone does their part to take care of it.

In 1848, the Great Māhele occurred, changing Hawaii’s landscape forever. Land was divided and redistributed due to foreign influence, and although King Kamehameha III attempted to protect Hawaiian lands, foreigners took ownership, marking the start of the plantation era.

According to Palakiko, ‘These Western minds realized that we had all this verdant ʻaina that could be utilized in large-scale agricultural efforts. …Because of the plantation era, a lot of concepts that we as kanaka maoli [Native Hawaiians] weren’t familiar with [were] suddenly taking precedence, [like] accessing land as a resource to make money.’

Palakiko’s family is no stranger to the hardships of the plantation era. Previous generations were driven off the ancestral land. Plantation owners went to the Palakikos with the intention of claiming their land and water resources for agriculture, in exchange for money. When the Palakikos declined, the plantation owners didn’t take no for an answer.

‘As the mo‘olelo (story) is passed down to us, they basically told [my family], “We’re going to block the river up in the mountain… and the water is going to get very high. Then we’re going to blow that dam, and a big wave of water is going to come down the valley. And if you’re on your land when it does, you’re going to get washed away with the water”,’ Palakiko said.

‘Sure enough, that’s exactly what happened. My family vacated under the threat of personal injury and death and were driven from the land.’

After years of being excluded from their ancestral land, Palakiko’s father went through the legal process to reclaim and repatriate the property.

West Maui Mountains | PANTHER MEDIA GMBH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

The Fight over Water

Once foreign businesses and plantation owners got hold of the land, agriculture and sugarcane took Maui’s economy by storm. But with this economic boom came the desecration of the land and resources that Native Hawaiians had spent centuries taking care of.

Palakiko explains: ‘Deforestation and our declining ecosystem and resources on the west side are the result of commercialism, agriculturalism, mass production for profit. Basically, that whole plantation era, in one fell swoop, in that one generation, took our islands from the pinnacle of balance in the ecosystem and decimated them to the current conditions.’

At the core of the environmental problem is water. Foreign businesses gained access and ownership of the land. They diverted streams and tapped into groundwater for mass-scale crop-production, sucking the land dry.

Then, the arrival of mass tourism, with resorts and golf courses, used even more water, causing the island to spiral into drought. The tourism-based economy pushed out the plantation era, with nothing but dry land left behind.

Lahaina’s History

According to Palakiko, Lahaina was once called Malu Ulu O Lele (‘Beneath the Shade of the Ulu Trees of Lele’) due to the widespread ulu (breadfruit) groves that spanned the landscape. Ulu trees are drought-tolerant, don’t require a lot of water, and have large leaves that create shade, allowing grasses and ferns to thrive in a lush environment.

Palakiko explained how the first Western accounts of Lahaina referred to it as a verdant garden, a thriving ecosystem. In modern history, Lahaina is known as the hotter side of Maui, where dry brush and dead plants span the landscape. Massive fields that once grew the thirsty sugarcane crop are now left empty.

Despite Lahaina’s arid conditions, Palakiko believes that restoration is possible with care and the implementation of Native Hawaiian practices.

‘Long before there was a university… kanaka already had a university: we lived on the ‘aina and we learned how to balance with the ʻaina.

‘Some of the amazing technologies, agricultural-wise, were ahead of their time – we were at the peak of human innovation and technology and advancement, and this is a people isolated in the middle of the Pacific.

‘The point being, we as kanaka maoli are saying, “We don’t need for you to tell us by Western science, this is not going to work.”

‘We’re telling you by cultural science and tradition that this can work. You just have to have proper balance and management again.’

The Water Debate

The wildfire of August 8, 2023, ravaged the town of Lahaina and was one of the deadliest in the country. The dry landscape and the area’s fierce winds, coupled with the effects of Hurricane Dora, allowed the fire to claim the lives of many, burn at least 2200 buildings, and displace the town’s population.

According to Palakiko, the wildfire has negatively impacted water conversation. Prior to the fire, developers would use the lack of affordable housing for Native Hawaiians and locals as an excuse to keep developing, despite new development being out of financial reach for residents.

Now that so much housing has been destroyed, developers are pushing the development agenda again.

Locals and Native Hawaiians are emphasizing the importance of prioritizing water restoration and land revitalization.

‘[Developers] are not recognizing that when you go to someplace and you start a community, if you tap the community dry of all of its resources...eventually, you’re going to exceed the maximum yield of the natural resources,’ Palakiko said.

Palakiko added that proper land restoration would allow future generations to live in the area, on better land.

‘Water’s first priority is to give life,’ he added. ‘And the first place that it needs to give life is to the ʻaina because if the ʻaina is in balance, then we as kanaka, human beings who live on the ʻaina, will thrive better.’

According to Palakiko, developers are claiming that water activists are hindering the progression and health of local people because they are preventing developers from providing necessary housing.

‘The hardest part when you talk about natural resources and primarily, in this case, water, is that how people feel is dependent predominantly upon their perspective of where natural resources sit in the hierarchy of importance in life,’ Palakiko said.

Ulu trees | GRAFFIZONE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Tourism is the prevailing industry in Hawaii and it would be beneficial for locals and Native Hawaiians to build camaraderie with tourists and for them to become part of the movement.

The Aftermath

After the fire, many grew frustrated with the slow response and lack of government support. Palakiko and his family stepped up and worked on reinforcing houses, organizing fundraising and donations, and spearheading community meetings with experts and lawyers to guide victims on how to receive aid and prevent their properties from foreclosure.

‘If there’s any final thoughts, it’s just to revert back to trying to create something that allows the world to come and enjoy Hawaii with a fuller understanding and respect and heart for the Native Hawaiian perspective,’ Palakiko said.

He acknowledged that tourism is the prevailing industry in Hawaii and said it would be beneficial for locals and Native Hawaiians to build camaraderie with tourists and for them to become part of the movement.

‘If we’re going to get tourism – which we are probably gonna always have in some way, shape or form – let’s educate those who come here as visitors,’ he said.

‘In [the] Hawaiian concept, there’s only two words for human relationship: You are either malihini, I don’t know you, or you’re ʻohana, I know you.

‘You can leave a malihini or come knowing that, should you take the time to invest in getting to know who we are as a people, you can transcend out of the level of malihini-ship, into the level of ʻohana-ship.’

TRAVELING

WITH ALOHA SPIRIT

The people of Maui are bonded by aloha ‘aina – respect for the land – and a love of hospitality. In recent years, however, Maui’s hospitable culture has been tested with the explosion of tourism. By Amy Balfour

MAUI’S STYLE OF community is one now rarely seen on the hard-charging US mainland. With the welcoming spirit of aloha, strong family ties and a culture that embraces generosity and hospitality, it’s a heavenly mix. There’s also an appreciation for chit-chatting – referred to as ‘talking story’ – a refreshingly ‘retro’ mode of communication still in fashion here.

Unfortunately, the recent stratospheric rise in tourism is pushing Maui’s beautiful culture to its limits. In 2022 alone, the island welcomed three million visitors, who spent $5.8 billion during their time here. Regrettably, many recent vacationers appeared to lack a basic sense of responsibility when visiting the island.

Specifically, there were growing concerns that tourists weren’t embracing aloha ʻaina and were damaging the island’s fragile natural ecosystems as a result. Visitors were also increasingly disrespectful to its kama‘aina (those born and raised in, or longtime residents of, Hawaii; literally, ‘child of the land’). Many were often unaware of authentic Hawaiian traditions and culture, and with three million visitors on a small island, the arrogance and ignorance of just a small percentage of travelers takes a toll. Adding to the unease? Some tourists seem to believe that spending money here relieves them of any social responsibility.

In response, the Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) has taken steps to ensure that the Hawaiian Islands are presented authentically to the world and that visitors engage thoughtfully with this beautiful place. Locals, who are becoming more vocal about much-needed change, are also trying to increase awareness.

Before You Go

Before you visit, consider reading the Ma‘ema‘e Toolkit (hawaiitourismauthority.org). Produced by the Hawaii Tourism Authority, it shares interesting geographical and cultural information about the Hawaiian Islands, and includes tips for responsible travel. You can also sign up in advance for a half-day volunteering stint through the Mālama Hawaii Program (gohawaii.com/malama), which was created to encourage and facilitate volunteering. Many projects include an element of education about Maui.

It’s always useful to learn a little ʻŌlelo Hawaiʻi (Hawaiian language), and read up on Hawaiian culture. You can also take the time to practice the shaka – the sign islanders use to greet each other – made by folding down the three middle fingers of your palm and extending your thumb and little finger. The hand is then shaken back and forth in greeting. On Maui, it’s as common as waving.

Singer, Old Lahaina Luau | TED SOQUI/CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES ©

Visiting with Aloha & Kuelana

Okay, nobody likes to be told how to act on vacation, and we wouldn’t dare. Or would we? Below are some suggestions – from Native Hawaiians and locals – for traveling thoughtfully while visiting Maui. These tips are especially relevant in the months and years following the Lahaina Wildfire as locals grieve, rebuild, re-home and try to move forward – on that topic, in general, try not to ask too many questions about the fire, with the understanding that some locals have lost everything and they may not want to talk about it. Many of them will be grieving Lahaina for a long time.

Support the Maui economy by shopping at local businesses. This means buying produce and crafts at farmers markets and the Maui Swap Meet, and your supplies at mom-and-pop stores. In early November, you can buy local products at the Made in Maui County Festival (madeinmauicountyfestival.com). The festival website also shares a list of Maui businesses and creators.

When eating out, the same applies: eat at locally owned restaurants, not international chains – look for restaurants that feature local, fresh produce. They should be able to tell you which farms are their suppliers.

It’s also important to treat the service workers at these restaurants, bars and hotels with respect, gratitude and generosity, always trying to give more than you take – and that includes a good tip. The cost of living in Maui is extremely high, and generously tipping your server, instructor or tour guide can go a long way.

Try to go beyond the superficial: learn the story of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i and the overthrow of the monarchy, the oppression (and renaissance of) the Hawaiian language and culture, the annexation to the US and the ongoing struggles for land and water rights.

Participate in activities or events that will deepen your introduction to this culture and history, whether it’s a farm tour, a museum visit or a musical performance. You’ll find suggestions throughout this book.

Volunteering also offers a great way to get better acquainted – with everything. Numerous resorts facilitate philanthropic service by offering discounts or free stays. Some outdoor outfitters also offer service-minded trips.

Be aware of your surroundings so that you’re not in a local’s way. This is particularly important on the Road to Hana: if you see a local driver behind you, pull over and let them pass.

Also try to be mindful of trash and precious resources when you’re out and about: use a recyclable drink container and reusable utensils. Drop trash in marked receptacles to show your respect for the outdoors. And when it comes to outdoor experiences, always stay on marked trails and obey the signage. While swimming, wear reef-safe mineral sunscreen. And finally, not that you would, but don’t disturb the peace and act entitled. It happens more than you think.

Banana bread, Hana Farms | GREG ELMS/LONELY PLANET ©

Volunteering

Volunteer opportunities are mentioned throughout this guide. Check out the volunteer opportunities facilitated by the HTA (mentioned above). These are linked to various resorts, outdoor outfitters and cultural groups – all part of the Mālama Hawaii Program.

Another place to start is Hands on Maui (handsonmaui.com), which is a volunteer hub for the entire island. The website shares an extensive list of volunteer agencies and their programs. It also includes immediate volunteer needs as well as opportunities to aid those displaced by the Lahaina Wildfire.

The Maui Nui Strong program (mauinuistrong.info), supported by the Office of Economic Development, also posts volunteer opportunities on its website and lists them by date. Another easy way to help is by donating food and household items to the Maui Food Bank (mauifoodbank.org), or assisting with food packing.

If you love being outdoors, consider volunteering at Haleakalā National Park, where volunteer programs have resumed post-Covid, These projects are organized by Friends of Haleakalā National Park (fhnp.org/service.html).

Tracking and counting whales for the Pacific Whale Foundation (pacificwhale.org) is another possibility.

Taro leaves | DESIGN PICS / MICHAEL INTERISANO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Participate in activities or events that will deepen your introduction to Hawaiian culture and history, whether it’s a farm tour, a museum visit or a musical performance.

THE MAUI

CONNECTION

Maui is more than just another beach vacation. Learn how to make the most of your time on the island. By Malia Yoshioka.

WHEN I TRAVEL, I love to connect with people and places through food. It’s something we all have in common – people everywhere prepare meals for both nourishment and enjoyment. My first stop in a new place is usually a cooking class or food tour, or perhaps a meet-up with a local food blogger. And voilà: from there I’ve got all kinds of insider information.

I love to seek out farmers markets or wander the aisles of grocery stores; the selection of ingredients is like a shorthand for so many things. I can compare the vegetables and fruit that are in season with the produce from my hometown of Pāʻia or other places I’ve traveled during the same time of year, which tells me a lot about the climate and terroir. I might find unexpected ingredients, spices and recipes that hint at the mixing of cultures, migration or colonization. It’s a fascinating (and delicious) lens through which to view the world. Plus, no matter where you are from, everyone has their favorite comfort food, family recipes and holiday traditions. It’s an easy way to make a lasting connection.

Sam Sato’s dry mein | DBTRAVEL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

A World of Culinary Influence

When it comes to my hometown in Upcountry Maui, visitors are sometimes surprised to learn that rice is our main source of carbohydrate, or that there are so many different types of culinary traditions and ingredients here. This is the first clue for many regarding Hawaii’s multiethnic population. Those who would like to look a little deeper can use this as an entry point to learn something about our history.

For example, one thing you might notice in Maui is that many families are like mine: descendants of the sugar plantation era. My great-grandparents arrived from western Japan in the last decades of the 1800s, along with tens of thousands of other contract workers, who hailed from places like Portugal, Puerto Rico, China and the Philippines. But by the time my grandparents were born, the Kingdom of Hawai‘i had been forcibly overthrown and annexed as a US territory. Just a decade after my father was born, Hawaii became the 50th US state, although there are still those today who consider the American presence to be an illegal occupation.

Many of the long-running businesses in Maui have names that make locals nostalgic just thinking about the food associated with them: Sam Sato’s dry mein (noodles) and Komoda Bakery’s stick doughnuts, to name just two. We’ve lost many of these institutions during my lifetime – I think fondly of Kitada’s saimin (local-style noodle soup) or the red hot-dogs and chow fun (fried rice) from Fukushima’s. This is why it’s so important for many of us to continue supporting the small businesses and entrepreneurs who are bringing new waves of flavors now that the sugar mills have closed.

Food trucks, pop-up shops and social media have changed the culinary landscape and brought us new cuisines to try: now we’ve got Mexican, Thai, Korean – even empanadas.

You can also see the multicultural melting-pot on Maui’s menus when deciding what type of plate lunch to order. There might be mouthwatering choices like kalbi, tempura, kalua pork, adobo and char siu (Korean, Japanese, Hawaiian, Filipino, and Chinese, respectively). Or creations that have blended elements from more than one culture – take, for example, baked manapua, which comes from the Chinese char siu bao. But here, the filling is not enclosed in a fluffy steamed bun, but rather wrapped in a Portuguese sweet bread.

And, of course, there’s the wartime-era shelf-staple of Spam: seven million cans are consumed in Hawaii each year. Try it as a Spam musubi: rice with a slice of fried Spam on top, wrapped in a strip of nori. It’s the perfect savory snack. It’s even on the breakfast menu at McDonald’s.

Kepaniwai Park & Heritage Gardens | JIM MULLHAUPT/FLICKR/CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 DEED ©

Priced Out of Paradise

Hawaii is gorgeous, there’s no denying it. We have unmatched natural beauty along with cultural treasures representing the many layers of history and waves of immigration that have shaped island culture into what it is today. But that’s not to say that it’s easy, or even possible, for locals to continue living on the islands these days. In fact, the 2020 census revealed that for the first time ever, there are more people of Native Hawaiian descent living outside the state than within it. News reports constantly bemoan the ongoing ‘brain drain’ and warn of locals being ‘priced out of paradise.’

Sadly, I’m one of those people. Growing up in Hawaii, I got my first job aged 15 to earn spending money while attending high school. By the time I was a senior, I had three jobs, including two supervisory positions. Like many in Hawaii, I’ve always juggled two, three and sometimes as many as four jobs just to make ends meet.

At one time I dreamed of homeowner-ship, but my meager savings were not even close to what would have been required for a down payment on a home. Unfortunately, there’s no property that’s been passed down in my family, so with real-estate values soaring into the millions and no real chance at home ownership (or building up savings), I made the difficult decision to leave the islands to pursue travel writing full-time.

When the wildfires swept through Lahaina and Upcountry Maui on August 8, 2023, a housing crisis had already long been brewing. And even those who didn’t lose their homes in the fires have been impacted by the economic downturn. Now, post-pandemic and post-fire, many families and individuals have had to make the tough choice to leave the island.

Those who have stayed behind are battling spiking rents, and many residents are hoping to diversify away from a dependence on tourism in order to move back towards the ahupuaʻa-based system, where communities were organized from the mountain to the sea and were relatively self-sufficient within their own boundaries. There’s also talk of embracing regenerative tourism and emphasizing education and awareness of how we can all take care of the ʻaina (land) and our community. Native plants and ingredients are being grown and utilized by many of Hawaii’s top chefs and restaurants in order to try to move away from our reliance on imported food items that leave us vulnerable to supply-chain issues. It’s exciting to watch what’s being done today by embracing age-old wisdom.

History, Language & Food

So how can visitors today connect with Hawaii’s past? Even as a lifelong resident, I’ve been applying the same curiosity that I bring on my travels around the world to my hometown.

We can visit museums such as Hale Hōʻikeʻike at the Bailey House to learn about Hawaiian history, all the way back to pre-Western contact and up through the missionary era. The Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum has exhibits that show what life was like on the sugar plantations for workers, like my ancestors. Stop to walk through the Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens in ʻIao and admire the sections honoring each ethnic group from the plantation era.

I never learned ʻŌlelo Hawaiʻi (the Hawaiian language) in school, despite it being one of the state’s two official languages. But there is a growing movement toward language education and immersion in schools that will hopefully help us continue to learn and honor the rich cultural traditions of the islands. Duolingo now offers a Hawaiian course, which makes me laugh with its many references to a muscular Jason Momoa and various Hawaiian food terms, all mixed together with Hawaiian pidgin English, the common dialect that evolved as a way for the workers on the sugar plantations to communicate.

In recent years, I’ve also started teaching English as a second language, and it made me realize that the pidgin I grew up with in Hawaii sounds very similar to the mistakes my students make with their pronunciation and grammar. If you visit Hawaii these days, you’ll still hear locals speaking pidgin, or switching back and forth.

Besides language and history, what’s the easiest way to connect with culture? I always turn to food. Indulge your curiosity about local restaurants: find out what your concierge’s family favorite is, or ask for recommendations from your cab driver or your flight attendant.

Visit a farmers market and support locally run businesses instead of the big stores. You’ve got to eat, right? Why not make it both educational and delicious? If you also support a small business that buys its products from Maui farmers and fisherfolk, you’ve taken it a step further. These are the small things we can do no matter where we travel in the world – even when we’re in our own ‘backyard’.

I don’t know what the future holds for Maui and whether I’ll ever be able to afford to move back home. My hope is that if we continue to return to respect for the ‘aina and really try to get back to an ahupuaʻa-based system of caring for one another, we can remember that our actions impact one another and that community is key.

I hope that all who visit my hometown will treat it with the respect and aloha it deserves.

Poke, traditional Hawaiian food | KIEFERPIX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Besides language and history, what’s the easiest way to connect with culture? I always turn to food.

MARIDAV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

“For jaw-dropping views over the lush carpets of Waihe’e Gorge, cascading waterfalls, tropical forests and a bird’s-eye view of Wailuku and Maui’s northern coast, it doesn’t get much better than the Waihe’e Ridge Trail.”

AMY BALFOUR

JENNA SZERLAG / DESIGN PICS/GETTY IMAGES ©

“The golden-sand beaches in Wailea are the stuff of daydreams and are famed for their phenomenal swimming, snorkeling, sunbathing and consistently sunny skies.”

AMY BALFOUR

THIS BOOK

Destination Editor

Sarah Stocking

Production Editor

Sarah Farrell

Book Designer

Ania Lenihan

Cartographer

Corey Hutchison

Assisting Editors

Shauna Daly, Martin Heng

Cover Researcher

Kat Marsh

Thanks Sofie Andersen, Imogen Bannister, Kate Mathews

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

CRN 554153

6th edition – Sep 2024

ISBN 978 1 83758 641 7

© Lonely Planet 2024 Photographs © as indicated 2024

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