Lonely Planet Singapore - 13th Edition (2024)
Author: Ria de Jong
Date: 0101-01-01 00:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Travel
Description: Lonely Planet's local travel experts reveal all you need to know to plan the trip of a lifetime to Singapore. Discover Singapore's most popular experiences and best kept secrets - neighbourhood by neighbourhood - from strolling through a forest-canopy in Southern Ridges to dipping your toes in Sembawang Hot Spring, and tucking into a seafood supper at East Coast Lagoon Food Village. Build a trip to remember with Lonely Planet's Singapore travel guide: Our classic guidebook format provides you with the most comprehensive level of information for planning trips of 1-2 weeks or more Updated with
Publisher: Lonely Planet

SINGAPORE

Contents

PLAN YOUR TRIP

The Journey Begins Here

Our Picks

Perfect Days

When to Go

Get Prepared for Singapore

Dining Out

Bar Open

Showtime

Treasure Hunt

THE GUIDE

NEIGHBOURHOODS AT A GLANCE

COLONIAL DISTRICT, MARINA BAY & THE QUAYS

CHINATOWN, TANJONG PAGAR & THE CBD

LITTLE INDIA & KAMPONG GLAM

ORCHARD ROAD

EASTERN SINGAPORE

NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE

HOLLAND VILLAGE, BOTANIC GARDENS & DEMPSEY HILL

WEST & SOUTHWEST SINGAPORE

SENTOSA ISLAND

DAY TRIPS FROM SINGAPORE

TOOLKIT

Arriving

Getting Around

Accommodation

Money

Health & Safe Travel

Family Travel

Accessible Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Nuts & Bolts

STORYBOOK

A History of Singapore in 15 Places

Meet the Singaporeans

Stories from Singapore's Walls

Hanging out with the Others

This Book

SINGAPORE

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Koon Seng Rd shophouses | mehdi33300/shutterstock

My favourite experience is a Singaporean breakfast set. I can never say no to one, even in the afternoon. There's just nothing like the way the gooey eggs combine with the sweet kaya (coconut jam), salty soy sauce and crunchy grilled bread.

The saying that 'good things come in small packages' could've been coined to describe the tiny island nation of Singapore. Measuring just two-thirds the size of New York City and endearingly referred to as the Little Red Dot (owing to its portrayal as a mere red dot on maps), it's a country I love discovering time and time again. This city is a realm of perpetual contrasts, often hurtling into the future with its out-of-this-world architecture, lightning-fast efficiency and impeccable image.

Yet, just a stone's throw away from the bustling thoroughfares, you'll uncover the city's rich history and culture: its buzzing village markets, pockets of lush jungle, kaleidoscopic smoky temples, and streets adorned with heritage shophouses. And then there's the food; from the creations of celebrity chefs to hawker delights, nothing can quite match the thrill of eating your way across this island of feasting.

Ria de Jong

@ria_in_transit

Ria is a travel writer and has been based in Southeast Asia for 14 years, nine of which she has spent on the sunny island of Singapore. This is Ria’s fourth Singapore update for Lonely Planet.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places that, for them, define Singapore.

Rail Corridor | travjes23/shutterstock ©

The Rail Corridor might be NParks' most ambitious nature-focused project. With the goal of bringing wilderness back into the city, the 24km hiking trail cuts across the entire island of Singapore from north to south. Some parts of the trail aren't very remote, but in others you'll leave the noise of the city behind and hear only birds and crickets chirping through the thick foliage. If you’re lucky, you might even spot long-tailed macaques and monitor lizards by the trail, as I did.

Nellie Huang

@wildjunket

Nellie is a Singapore-born book author, travel writer and adventurous mum who’s absolutely obsessed with hawker food.

Chilli crab | E W Brown/Alamy Stock Photo ©

I’ve found that the one thing most visitors to Singapore remember is the incredible hawker food they ate. I usually take visiting friends to a local-favourite hawker centre so they can indulge in a smorgasbord of dishes ranging from chilli crab to char kway teow (wok-fried rice noodles). East Coast Lagoon Food Village, right by the sea, and Old Airport Road Food Centre with its many famous hawker stalls are my go-tos.

Jaclynn Seah
theoccasionaltraveller.com

Jaclynn is a Singaporean travel writer and occasional traveller perpetually juggling work and wanderlust.

JUNGLE WALKS

Contrary to its urban reputation, Singapore proudly showcases a vast expanse of lush nature reserves and green spaces, offering myriad unique hiking experiences for those seeking solace from the city's fast-paced lifestyle. Whether you prefer to explore jungle paths, coastal routes or reservoir trails, all are accessible to various fitness levels and generally not too strenuous. The tracks are well maintained, ensuring a delightful hiking experience for all who venture into the city's natural havens.

MacRitchie's Treetop Walk | Nate Hovee/shutterstock ©

Wildlife

Maintain a safe distance from birds and animals, and never feed them – you'll face a fine of up to $10,000 if you're caught.

Sultonyohe/shutterstock ©

Stay Safe

Always stay on the designated trails; in the event of bad weather, seek cover at the nearest shelter until the storm passes.

Oliver Foerstner/shutterstock ©

Get Kitted Out

Dress in comfortable, breathable attire and wear a good pair of trainers or hiking boots. Apply sunscreen and mosquito repellent, and always carry water.

BEST WILD TRAILS

Southern Ridges 1User-friendly trails with forest-canopy strolling, striking architecture and panoramic views.

MacRitchie Reservoir 2Six trails from 3km to 11km, plenty of wildlife and the must-do 250m-long suspension-bridge TreeTop Walk.

Rail Corridor 3Not for the faint-hearted, this 24km trans-island trail is divided into three sections – the central trail (4km) is the most popular.

Sungei Buloh Nature Reserve 4With 200 hectares of habitat from mudflats and mangroves to ponds and forests, this is paradise for bird-watchers and animal lovers.

Pulau Ubin 5Rustic island perfect for exploring by bike or on foot; don't miss the coastal boardwalks at Chek Jawa Wetlands.

HISTORICAL HAUNTS

Beginning as a fishing village and a centre for Malay, Thai, Javanese, Chinese, Indian and Arab traders, the small but strategically located island now known as Singapore evolved through the centuries under the influence of various empires. In 1819 Sir Stamford Raffles signed a treaty with the incumbent ruler and established a British trading post on the island. Following Japanese occupation in WWII and a failed merger with Malaysia, the Little Red Dot gained independence in 1965.

Buddha statue, Asian Civilisations Museum | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Glorious Gifting

Forget tacky T-shirts and garish magnets: Singapore's galleries and museums have elevated their souvenir game with trendy, design-focused curios that are gloriously local.

Richie Chan/shutterstock ©

Free Tours

Many of Singapore's museums offer free guided tours in many languages. Check websites for details, and register early as most are first come, first served.

Richie Chan/shutterstock ©

Onward, Singapore!

'Majulah Singapura' (Onward Singapore) is the national anthem. With lyrics in Bahasa Malay, the anthem was composed in 1958 by Indonesian-born Zubir Said.

BEST HISTORICAL EXPERIENCES

National Museum of Singapore 1The nation's oldest museum, this cultural and architectural landmark vividly recounts the country's rich and eventful history.

Asian Civilisations Museum 2Travel back through time at this engrossing ode to Asia's cross-cultural connections.

Chinatown Heritage Centre 3Delve into Chinatown's gritty, chaotic and often scandalous past at this immersive museum, where bygone tales come to life.

Peranakan Museum 4Explore the vibrant world of Straits Chinese culture through this captivating collection of historical artefacts and immersive displays.

Indian Heritage Centre 5This state-of-the-art museum spotlights the origins and heritage of Singapore's Indian community through artefacts, maps, archival footage and displays.

Find out how to visit a Peranakan heritage home at lonelyplanet.com

UNDER THE RADAR

While iconic attractions such as Marina Bay Sands and Gardens by the Bay are undeniably impressive, they offer only a glimpse of Singaporean life. To truly immerse yourself in authentic experiences, hop on the MRT to explore the city's lesser-known areas. Singapore has so much more to offer beyond the typical tourist trail.

Lian Shuang Lin Monastery | Justin Adam Lee/shutterstock ©

Explore the Heartlands

Lively neighbourhoods include Tampines, Jurong, Bishan, Toa Payoh and Ang Mo Kio – exit the MRT and go for a wander.

Discover the Islands

Grab your swimmers and a picnic and spend the day exploring Singapore's Southern Islands. All three are easily accessible via public ferry.

BEST UNDER THE RADAR EXPERIENCES

Changi Village 1The relaxed, village-like vibe here offers visitors a chilled-out escape from the frenetic pace of the city.

Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle 2See Singapore's last remaining dragon kiln and pick up a piece of handmade crockery or Peranakan pottery.

Lorong Buangkok 3Travel back to simpler days at the main island's last surviving kampong (village), still resisting the tide of modern development.

Sembawang Hot Spring 4Pop your tootsies in for a relaxing soak, or cook yourself an egg – yes, really! – at this naturally occurring hot spring.

Lian Shuang Lin Monastery 5Spend a few hours taking in this breathtaking monastery, which is inspired by the Xi Chang Shi temple in Fuzhou, China.

FOR FREE

Despite its position as one of the world's most expensive cities, Singapore offers numerous free or highly affordable activities for everyone to enjoy. From exploring lush gardens and cultural districts to relishing local cuisine and taking in captivating light shows, there are plenty of ways to experience the city's charm without breaking the bank.

Getting Around

The MRT isn't free, but it's incredibly cheap (purchase an EZ-Link Tourist Pass); it's the fastest, cleanest and easiest way to navigate the city.

TY Lim/shutterstock ©

Neighbourhood Streets

Spend a day crisscrossing the island to discover its diverse and colourful neighbourhoods, where daily life is the best show in town.

Circle Creative Studio/Getty Images ©

Green Spaces

Singapore boasts a wealth of free green spaces, from world-class gardens to coastal parks and hiking trails. All offer a refreshing respite from the hustle.

BEST FREE EXPERIENCES

Religious sites 1Dip in and out of Singapore's temples, mosques and churches, which are dotted across the city.

Gardens by the Bay 2While the domed conservatories and OCBC Skyway come at a cost, the rest of this horticultural masterpiece is free. Don't miss the twice-nightly Supertree sound-and-light show.

Singapore Botanic Gardens 3Spend a morning wandering around one of the country's greatest attractions, which also hosts free tours and performances.

Haw Par Villa 4Relive a little 1950s tourism at this wonderfully quirky, more than slightly scary, offbeat theme park.

Singapore City Gallery 5 Explore the captivating journey of Singapore's cityscape and urban planning throughout the decades – the gallery provides a fascinating insight into its evolution.

Find more free things to do in Singapore on lonelyplanet.com

SKYLINE VISTAS

Singapore has experienced astounding transformations, with gleaming skyscrapers and architectural masterpieces constantly reshaping its panorama. The iconic Marina Bay Sands is now accompanied by innovative landmarks such as the futuristic Gardens by the Bay and Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay. Embracing sustainability, Singapore has seamlessly integrated greenery into its urban landscape, adding a touch of nature to the city's modernity. As Singapore evolves, its ever-changing skyline remains a testament to its focus on the future.

Gardens by the Bay | Kanuman/shutterstock ©

Perfect Timing

Claim your spot an hour before sunset to watch the city skyline transform from day to night. Sunset reservations at bars are a must.

2p2play/shutterstock ©

Light Up the Night

To add some razzle-dazzle to your vista, head to the Event Plaza at Marina Bay to catch free nightly light-and-water show Spectra.

Matyas Rehak/shutterstock ©

Spend Wisely

For a similar price as admission to SkyPark, you can enjoy amazing views and a cocktail at CE LA VI.

BEST SKY-HIGH EXPERIENCES

Smoke & Mirrors 1Sophisticated cocktails accompanied by knockout prospects over the Padang to Marina Bay Sands.

Singapore Flyer 2Embark on a 30-minute aerial adventure with stunning bird's-eye views of the city.

SkyHelix Sentosa 3This open-air ride rotates slowly 12 storeys above the ground, giving a panoramic vista over Sentosa and beyond.

LeveL 33 4Enjoy your craft-beer tasting paddle from the 'world’s highest urban microbrewery’ with a side of jaw-dropping Marina Bay views.

ION Sky 5Head 218m above Orchard Rd for a very different angle on Singapore. The outlook is (just) worth the rigmarole of securing a ticket.

HAWKER HANGOUT

Hawker centres in Singapore have a history dating back to the 1800s, when street vendors sold quick, affordable meals to the masses. After WWII, many unemployed people turned to hawking, which saw the industry boom and in turn created hygiene, traffic and littering problems. In the 1970s the government established purpose-built hawker centres to address these issues. Today, hawker centres are culinary hubs that are integral to Singapore's food culture, offering diverse and affordable dishes.

Maxwell Food Centre, Chinatown | Vaclav Uhlir/shutterstock ©

Save Your Seat

Put a packet of tissues on the table in front of your seat to chope (save) it. It's common to share tables with strangers.

John Seaton Callahan/Getty Images ©

Choose Your Meal

Join the longest queue for guaranteed good nosh. Take note of your table number if the stall delivers; otherwise, wait in line for your food.

BoyCatalyst/shutterstock ©

Clear Away

It's mandatory to return your tray and dishes to a cleaning station once you've finished – fines may apply if you don't.

BEST HAWKER-CENTRE EXPERIENCES

Chinatown Complex 1This labyrinth of more than 260 stalls is the hardcore hawker experience.

Maxwell Food Centre 2This solid spot is known across Singapore for fierce competition between two of its chicken-rice stalls.

Tekka Centre 3If you love Indian food, head to Little India's liveliest hawker centre for some of the best street eats on the island.

Amoy Street Food Centre 4Head to this lunchtime favourite to sample some new-gen hawker delights alongside plenty of classics.

East Coast Lagoon Food Village 5This breezy beachfront centre in East Coast Park is perfect for sunset satay and seafood.

WITH KIDS

Singapore stands out as one of the best Asian countries for travelling with children. With its safe, clean environment and its efficient public transport, it's an easy and convenient destination for families. Children are warmly welcomed everywhere, and the city offers an array of facilities and amenities tailored to kids of all ages.

Getting Around

Singapore is a breeze to navigate with kids thanks to its excellent footpaths, easily accessible MRT system, and buses with designated stroller entry and parking.

Eating Out

Don't fret if your kids are fussier eaters, as the island has a wealth of cuisine types. High chairs and children's meals are commonly available.

Universal Studios, Sentosa Island | Everything/shutterstock ©

BEST EXPERIENCES FOR KIDS

Singapore Duck Tours 1Hop aboard a brightly coloured amphibious vehicle for a seriously fun tour of Marina Bay.

Mandai Wildlife Reserve 2This integrated wildlife and nature destination is home to renowned parks such as the Singapore Zoo, Night Safari and Bird Paradise.

Sentosa 3Singapore's carefully planned island of fun has a world-class sprawl of theme parks, amusements, beaches and evening spectaculars.

Gardens by the Bay 4This sprawling, futuristic botanical garden includes a Children's Garden complete with wet-play zones and giant tree houses.

Children’s Museum 5Singapore’s first kid-centric museum (best for under 12s) has immersive shows and interactive displays.

Find more things to do with kids in Singapore on lonelyplanet.com

SACRED SITES

When it comes to religious worship, Singapore is a wonderful fusion of cultures. The island celebrates a variety of faiths, with Buddhism (31%), Christianity (19%), Islam (16%), Taoism (9%) and Hinduism (5%) all commonly practised. This rich tapestry of religions is beautifully represented through the exquisite religious structures found across the island.

Respectful Dress

Modest attire is expected in places of worship. You may also need to remove your shoes, and hats and sunglasses should not be worn inside.

John Seaton Callahan/shutterstock ©

Cameras Down

Refrain from taking photos without permission, especially of devotees praying. Be considerate of your surroundings if you intend to post on social media.

primeimages/Getty Images ©

BEST RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCES

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple 1Wander through this five-storey Buddhist temple, home to what is reputedly a tooth of the Buddha that was discovered in Myanmar.

St Andrew's Cathedral 2Explore the whitewashed elegance of Singapore's most famous church, a neogothic edifice built using Indian convict labour.

Sultan Mosque 3The enchanting golden-domed centre that binds Kampong Glam brings to mind a scene from a fairy-tale illustration.

Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 4Soak up the hypnotic energy at Little India's most colourful, visually stunning Hindu temple, dedicated to the ferocious goddess Kali.

Thian Hock Keng Temple 5This beautifully restored structure – Chinatown's oldest and most important Hokkien temple – stands proud with its stone lions and elaborately carved beams.

Perfect Days

Thanks to Singapore's small footprint and efficient transportation network, you can effortlessly explore and eat your way around all corners of the island in no time at all.

Cloud Forest, Gardens by the Bay | i viewfinder/shutterstock ©

DAY 1

Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays

Start with a riverside stroll at the Quays, winding your way back to the Colonial District. Visit the brilliant Asian Civilisations Museum or continue to the National Museum of Singapore, the Peranakan Museum or the art-filled National Gallery.

Lunch Take the MRT to Little India and head into the Tekka Centre for top-notch hawker fare.

Little India & Kampong Glam

Explore the streets, dotted with spice sellers, sari stores and gold dealers. Be captivated by the colours of Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, then delve into the area's rich history at the Indian Heritage Centre. Wander south to Kampong Glam to discover the fairy-tale Sultan Mosque before hunting down street art at Gelam Gallery and unique shopping finds in Haji Lane and Arab Street.

Dinner Grab a laneway table at Mexican Piedra Negra.

Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays

As the crowds dwindle, head into the Flower Dome and Cloud Forest conservatories at high-tech Gardens by the Bay before catching the Garden Rhapsody light-and-sound show at the Supertrees Grove. Grab a cocktail at rooftop Smoke & Mirrors and end your night with a gun-barrel view of Marina Bay Sands.

DAY 2

Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar & the CBD

Enjoy a Singapore breakfast set of kaya (coconut-jam) toast, runny eggs and kopi (coffee) at Ya Kun Kaya Toast before glimpsing neighbourhood life at the Chinatown Heritage Centre, Thian Hock Keng Temple and the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Look out for heritage murals by Singaporean artist Yip Yew Chong. To get a bird's-eye view of the metropolis, ascend Pinnacle@Duxton, or learn all about it at the Singapore City Gallery.

Lunch At the Amoy Street Food Centre, queue for Singapore-style ramen at A Noodle Story.

Eastern Singapore

Dive into Peranakan culture in Joo Chiat, stopping at Koon Seng Road (103) for a photo with the colourful shophouses. Visit the moving Changi Chapel & Museum, which recounts the stories of survivors of the Japanese occupation. Back outdoors, go for a bike ride at beachfront East Coast Park.

Dinner Feast on white-pepper-and-chilli crab at No Signboard Seafood.

Eastern Singapore

Beeline for neon-lit Geylang, a tame red-light district juxtaposed with temples, mosques and some of Singapore's best food. Stop at a roadside stall to try durian, the king of fruits; some say its flavour is like custard with almonds; others are less complimentary.

DAY 3

Northern & Central Singapore

Rise early and join the orangutans for Breakfast in the Wild at Singapore Zoo. Ride the guided tram to get your bearings, and check animal feeding times. Grab a ‘Park Hopper’ combo ticket if you want to check out any of the other parks at Mandai Wildlife Reserve. Alternatively, head to MacRitchie Reservoir for a calming, evocative jungle escape.

Lunch Grab some chicken rice or laksa at the zoo’s Ah Meng Restaurant.

Sentosa Island

After all that wildlife, it’s time for a wild time on Sentosa Island, Singapore’s island of fun! To cool down, don your swimmers for family-fun water slides at Adventure Cove; or, for a mixture of rides and shows, tackle Universal Studios. If you’re looking to really get your heart racing, Mega Adventure Park fits the bill, along with Skypark Sentosa by AJ Hackett.

Dinner Chow down on Hawaiian-inspired beachside fare at Ola Beach Club (160) on Palawan Beach.

Sentosa

As late afternoon hits, pull up at one of the island's beach clubs for a sundowner – options include water-sport-heavy Ola Beach Club and the more secluded and oh-so-trendy Tanjong Beach Club. Finish your evening with some mega light-and-laser-show action at Wings of Time.

WHEN TO GO

Visiting Singapore is excellent year-round. Its warm tropical climate means daytime temperatures typically range from 28ºC to 31ºC.

Located just 137km north of the equator, Singapore lacks distinct seasonal variations and has a warm, humid climate throughout the year. The island has almost daily rainfall, but these showers are typically brief and refreshing. Singapore experiences two official monsoons: the north-east monsoon (December to March) and the south-west monsoon (mid-June to September). February to April is the most favourable time to visit, as this period sees the least rainfall and the lowest humidity. The weather is also pleasant during the transition months of September and October. From May to August, Singapore can be affected by haze caused by smoke from neighbouring countries' wildfires.

I LIVE HERE

MARATHON RUNNING

Urvi Shah is a web analyst based in Bukit Timah. An avid runner, she's completed events throughout Asia, including the Singapore Marathon.

When I started running in Singapore, I found it hard going: the humidity was so high my gear would be drenched before I'd hit 1km. Now that I’m used to it, I love pounding the bitumen before dawn for a serious sweat session. I find running easier in other climates now, but that first run back home is killer.

SINGAPORE SHOWERS

Singapore has an average of 171 rainy days a year. Even though that might sound like a lot, much of the rain falls in sudden afternoon thunderstorms that last only an hour or so.

Accommodation

Singapore ain't cheap, so it's best to avoid the super-peak seasons. School holidays in June and December are busy, as is Chinese New Year. Any large entertainment or sporting event, such as a large concert or the F1 race, will send prices sky high.

Seletar | Dr David Sing/shutterstock ©

A LIGHTNING CAPITAL

With around 163 lightning events per kilometre, Singapore has the highest lightning density in the world. April, May and November are the most lightning-prone months because of the monsoon conditions at this time.

Religious Festivities

The streets of Chinatown come alive with lanterns and lion dancers in the run-up to Chinese New Year. Shoppers head to the area en masse to pick up festive treats. January/February

Little India is ablaze during Deepavali, the Festival of Lights, which celebrates Rama's victory over the demon king Ravana. The festival culminates in a huge street party on the eve of the holiday. October/November

Hari Raya celebrates the end of the Ramadan fasting month. Head to the bazaar at Geylang Serai in Eastern Singapore or to Kampong Glam for nightly feasts. March/April

As Christmas rolls around, Orchard Rd and the Gardens by the Bay both light up in spectacular festive displays. November/December

I LIVE HERE

RESORT LIVING

Amy Tan, a finance analyst, called River Valley home before swapping the city for the beach vibes of Sentosa.

Living on Sentosa feels like dwelling on a perpetual resort island with golf buggies and beach clubs. The weather is hot all year round, but the sea breeze keeps temperatures down. During December and January, the slightly cooler evenings create picturesque sunset scenes at the Marina at Keppel Bay, which I love to enjoy alfresco with a drink in hand.

Lights, Dance & Go!

Prepare to be wowed at Chingay, Singapore's biggest multicultural street parade, featuring lion dancers, floats and performers. Tickets are required. February

Nights come alight for the spectacular Singapore Night Festival, as buildings become canvases for rainbow light projections and visitors are treated to interactive installations, performance art and comedy shows. August

Dance the night away at legendary dusk-to-dawn dance-music festival ZoukOut on the party island of Sentosa. Expect sick beats pumped out by A-list local and international DJs. December

The Marina Bay area is transformed into a high-speed race track for Formula One's only night race. Held over three days, the event features non-stop racing action and big-name entertainment. September

Sentosa Island | Arcady/shutterstock ©

HAZY DAYS

The haze season, which typically occurs from May to October, is caused by winds bringing in tiny particles of ash from forest fires burning in the region. Farmers in neighbouring countries use slash-and-burn methods to clear land.

Weather through the Year

JANUARY

Avg daytime max: 25.8°C

Days of rainfall: 13

FEBRUARY

Avg daytime max: 26.2°C

Days of rainfall: 9

MARCH

Avg daytime max: 26.7°C

Days of rainfall: 12

APRIL

Avg daytime max: 27.1°C

Days of rainfall: 15

MAY

Avg daytime max: 27.4°C

Days of rainfall: 15

JUNE

Avg daytime max: 27.3°C

Days of rainfall: 13

JULY

Avg daytime max: 27°C

Days of rainfall: 14

AUGUST

Avg daytime max: 26.9°C

Days of rainfall: 14

SEPTEMBER

Avg daytime max: 26.9°C

Days of rainfall: 13

OCTOBER

Avg daytime max: 26.7°C

Days of rainfall: 15

NOVEMBER

Avg daytime max: 26.3°C

Days of rainfall: 19

DECEMBER

Avg daytime max: 26°C

Days of rainfall: 19

GET PREPARED

FOR SINGAPORE

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain

Chinatown | LECHATNOIR/GETTYIMAGES ©

Clothes

Loose, light attire Singapore is hot and humid throughout the year, so lightweight and breathable clothing is a must. Neat casual clothes are appropriate for exploring, but remember to dress respectfully when you visit temples. Pack a smarter outfit for fine-dining establishments and clubs, as many of these have dress codes. Many restaurants and shopping malls are air-conditioned and can feel arctic (especially the cinemas), so carry a light wrap or sweater.

Footwear Flip-flops are fine for getting around, but bring trainers or hiking boots if you’re visiting any of the nature reserves.

Hat and umbrella The Singapore sun can be fierce, so a hat is a must. A small umbrella will shield you from midday rays and sudden downpours, which are common in the late afternoon.

LISTEN

Genesi (JJ Lin; 2014) Award-winning album by one of Singapore’s most famous Mandopop artists.

Life Story (Dick Lee; 1974) Debut that started Lee on his journey to become the ‘Father of Singaporean Pop’.

Home (Kit Chan; 1998) Patriotic hit rolled out for National Day in 1998. Brings a tear to the eye of nearly every Singaporean.

Improm2 (Louis Soliano; 2004) Solo album by an icon of Singapore’s jazz community. Some famous concerts have been performed in his honour.

READ

Singapore Story (Lee Kuan Yew; 1999) Learn the secrets of Singapore’s success from the man who masterminded the whole thing.

Singapore: A Biography (Mark Ravinder Frost and Yu-Mei Balasingamchow; 2010) 450 beautifully illustrated pages of the history of Singapore.

This Is What Inequality Looks Like (Teo You Yenn; 2018) A collection of essays that look behind Singapore’s glittering and glamorous image.

Tanamera (Noel Barber; 1981) Part history lesson, part romance novel set in 1930s Singapore.

Words

After engaging in a conversation with a Singaporean, English speakers could find themselves utterly bewildered. Singlish, Singapore’s version of English, is an informal, colloquial blend of English and various local languages such as Hokkien, Tamil and Malay. Verb tenses are often simplified or replaced with time indicators, such as ‘lah’ for emphasis. The last syllable of phrases is stressed, leading to syncopated consonants and changed vowel sounds. Pronouns and prepositions are frequently omitted, and word order can be unconventional. Some view Singlish as a cultural emblem that fosters identity and belonging, while others perceive it as a barrier to mastering standard English. Despite its controversies, Singlish continues to thrive in everyday conversations, literature and media.

‘lah’ can translate as ‘OK’ but has no real meaning and can be added for emphasis to the end of just about every phrase or sentence

‘can?’ is that OK?

‘can!’ yes, that’s fine!

‘alamak!’ (ah-lah-mak) exclamation of disbelief or frustration, ‘oh my gosh!’

‘aiyo’ (ai-yo) expression of disappointment, annoyance or sympathy, ‘aiyo, why so upset?’

‘makan’ (mah-kahn) to eat, ‘you makan already?’

‘shiok’ (she-oak) very good, ‘this chicken rice is shiok’

‘dabao’ (dah-bao) to take away, ‘chicken rice, tabao’

‘chope’ (joh-pe) to reserve a seat

‘die, die, must try’ yummy dish you must try

‘atas’ (ah-tahs) snobbish or high-class, ‘he is so atas’

‘kaypoh’ (kay-poh) a busybody

‘kiasu’ (kee-ah-soo) afraid of losing out

‘lepak’ (leh-park) relax and unwind, ‘let’s go lepak at the beach’

‘jalan jalan’ walk, ‘let’s go Orchard Rd jalan jalan’

WATCH

EVERETT COLLECTION INC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
lo Ilo (Anthony Chen; 2013; pictured above) Touching story about a troubled Chinese-Singaporean boy and his Filipino maid. Won the 2013 Caméra d’Or at Cannes.

12 Storeys (Eric Khoo; 1997) Dark comedy about separate individuals living in a public-housing apartment block.

Apprentice (Junfeng Boo; 2016) Prison drama about Singapore’s controversial death penalty and those who undertake the job of executioner.

Ah Boys To Men (Jack Neo; 2012) The first movie in a satirical series about a group of National Service recruits.

Crazy Rich Asians (Jon M. Chu; 2018) A peek into the lives of Singapore’s mega-wealthy families. Adapted from Kevin Kwan’s bestselling novel.

Manners

Spitting or littering in public is both frowned upon and illegal.

Seats are reserved (choped) by placing a packet of tissues or an umbrella on the table or chair.

Cleaning away your tray after eating is a must in hawker centres and public dining areas.

Addressing elders as uncle or auntie is a sign of respect and common practice.

DINING OUT

From simple hawker fare to five-star fine dining and everything in between, Singapore has it all. Welcome to the 'island of feasting'.

Chinatown | RAINIEC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

In Singapore, makan (eating) is taken very seriously. Food-enamoured Singaporeans will line up for food, Instagram the hell out of it, and passionately debate whether it is 'die, die, must try' – Singlish slang for 'to die for'. And why wouldn't they be captivated? Singapore's food landscape delights the palate with an incredible variety of flavours and cuisines that represent the nation's rich multicultural heritage, which has been influenced by Chinese, Malay, Indian and Peranakan traditions. The essence of Singapore's culinary diversity can be found in its treasured hawker centres, where mouthwatering and pocket-friendly dishes await to ignite your foodie experience. But that's just the beginning! The city pulses with a happening culinary scene, boasting a plethora of cafes, restaurants and bistros that infuse their unique creative twists into the mix. Meanwhile, the rapidly evolving fine-dining landscape is positioning itself as among the best in Asia. One thing is for sure – you'll never have to worry about going hungry in Singapore.

Hawkers of the Future

Singapore’s hawker culture is so integral to the nation’s identity that in 2020 it was awarded a place on Unesco's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. But all this is at risk of disappearing as ageing hawkers, who’ve spent decades perfecting their dishes, edge towards retirement. Younger generations have generally shunned the industry in favour of more white-collar career paths, so there are few successors. Nonetheless, the government is actively supporting the sector, and a new wave of hawkers is rising, blending tradition with modernity. To sample the dishes of next-generation superstar hawkers, head to the Amoy Street Food Centre or Timbre+.

From Lab to Market

As you wander through the wet markets of Singapore, you'll be greeted by bustling stalls overflowing with a wide variety of fruit, vegetables, seafood, meats and cooking essentials. Considering Singapore's small size – a mere 734.3 sq km, with just 1% allocated for farmland – you might wonder where all this food comes from. The reality is that Singapore relies heavily on imports for more than 90% of its food, making it susceptible to potential shortages and price fluctuations.

To address this vulnerability, the Singaporean government has devised a '30 by 30' strategy, which aims to see 30% of the island's nutritional requirements produced locally and sustainably by 2030. This approach focuses on enhancing fruit and vegetable production through urban-farming initiatives. These include hydroponic farms atop buildings, local neighbourhood farms, and indoor multistory LED vegetable farms Singapore's tech industry is playing a pivotal role in advancing alternative-protein projects, and aims to position the country as a global leader in this field. The government is also fostering innovation and entrepreneurship in the sector, and at least 36 alternative-protein companies based in the city have collectively raised more than US$213 million in funding.

Through these comprehensive efforts, Singapore is determined to fortify its food supply, bolster resilience and champion sustainability – to 2030 and beyond.

Best Singaporean Dishes

CHICKEN RICE

Tender chicken and fragrant rice poached in chicken broth.

CHILLI CRAB

Crabs in thick chilli sauce served with mantou (fried or steamed buns).

NASI LEMAK

Coconut-milk rice with fried fish or chicken, egg, anchovies and chilli.

CHAR KWAY TEOW

Stir-fried noodles with cockles, Chinese sausage and dark sauces.

SATAY

Grilled meat skewers dipped in a spicy peanut sauce.

BAK KUT TEH

Pork ribs simmered in a complex broth of herbs and spices.

ROTI PRATA

South Indian fried flaky flatbread perfect for dipping in curry sauce.

LAKSA

Rice noodles, chicken and seafood in a spicy coconut broth.

Geylang Serai Ramadan Bazaar | Pete Burana/shutterstock ©

BEST FOOD & DRINK FESTIVALS

Singapore Food Festival A showcase for the island's food culture, this July event has something to satisfy all appetites, from the Festival Village to food tours and masterclasses.

Singapore Cocktail Festival In May the island's best bartenders come together for a mixologists' party. Participating cocktail bars craft a festival tipple that's available throughout this three-week booze fest.

Brewnanza An August celebration of unique brews from local and international breweries.

Geylang Serai Ramadan Bazaar Come for the food and revel in the colourful sights and sounds.

Moon Cake (Mid-Autumn) Festival Takes place at the full moon of the eighth lunar month.

Chinese New Year Secure prosperity by using chopsticks to throw the ingredients of lo hei (a colourful raw-fish salad) high in the air.

BAR OPEN

Come nighttime, Singapore sheds its all-business image to reveal a dynamic bar and nightlife scene roaring to life.

Long Bar, Raffles Hotel | Paulharding00/shutterstock ©

From speakeasy cocktail bars to boutique beer stalls to artisan coffee roasters, Singapore has immersed itself in the finer points of drinking. For jaw-dropping views, head to the rooftop bars that dot the Colonial District and Marina Bay; aim for a pre-sunset arrival to get the most bang for your buck, because knockout drink prices often accompany those knockout views. You’ll find many of Singapore’s hottest bars in Chinatown, especially around Amoy St, Club St, Duxton Hill and Keong Saik Rd. Chinatown’s Neil Rd is home to a handful of swinging gay venues. Other popular drinking spots include bohemian-spirited Kampong Glam, heritage-listed Emerald Hill Rd (just off Orchard Rd), expat enclaves Dempsey Hill and Holland Village, and hyper-touristy Boat and Clarke Quays. The clubbing and dance-party scene centres on Marina Bay and the Quays, attracting A-list DJs and plenty of revellers ready to dance the night away in high-tech nightspots. For a more chilled vibe, head to Sentosa's beach clubs – their weekend parties are legendary.

From Kopi to Coffee

While traditional kopitiams (coffeeshops) have stood the test of time, serving generations with their comforting kopi (coffee), Singapore's speciality-coffee revolution started as a drop in a cup but is now a full-blown storm. Drawing inspiration from Australia's artisanal-coffee culture, wave upon wave of contemporary cafes are sourcing and roasting their own beans – try Chye Seng Huat Hardware, Alchemist The Heeren, Brawn & Brains Coffee and Common Man Coffee Roasters. No matter how you like your cup brewed, be it by espresso machine, drip, Aeropress or siphon, you'll easily get your fix on the Little Red Dot.

The Cocktail Revolution

Singapore's cocktail scene has undergone a transformation in recent decades. While the iconic cotton-candy-coloured Singapore Sling once reigned supreme, the city-state has emerged as a global mixology hub. In classic establishments, rooftop bars and secret speakeasies tucked away in alleyways, bartenders all over the island are experimenting with exotic ingredients and innovative techniques to craft delightful libations. This evolution is showcased at the Singapore Cocktail Festival, where mixologists mesmerise with their creations, leaving enthusiasts and newcomers alike in a cocktail coma. As boundaries continue to be pushed, Singapore's cocktail culture stands tall, celebrating creativity and innovation in every sip.

Let's Party

Singapore's club scene suffered during the pandemic, with alcohol service ending at 10.30pm and dance floors turning into restaurants. Thankfully, the tables and chairs have now been cleared away and DJs are returning in full force. (Weeknights still remain relatively quiet, though.) Clarke Quay's super-club Zouk offers a number of themed spaces for getting your groove on. Thrill-seekers flock to MARQUEE in Marina Bay Sands, where the full-size Ferris wheel and slide are just some of the toys to enjoy while you party the night away. Laneway festivals and dance parties are starting to fill up the calendar – check timeout.com/singapore for details.

Edward Lin/Getty Images ©

NEED TO KNOW

Extra Charges

Regular bars add 19% to your bill: a 10% service charge, and 9% for GST. You'll see this indicated by '++' on drink lists. Tipping on top of this is not customary.

Costs

Drinking can be costly in Singapore, mainly because alcohol is highly taxed and also because of the high price of commercial rentals.

Opening Times

Bars generally open around 5pm until at least midnight Sunday to Thursday, and through to 2am or 3am on Friday and Saturday.

Entry Fees

Unless you know someone at the door or get signed in by a member, at the hottest clubs you'll have to join the queue. You can avoid the cover charge for some bars and clubs if you go early.

Lonely Planet's Top Choices

LONG BAR

Raffles Hotel institution that's home to the iconic Singapore Sling.

MANHATTAN

Cocktails inspired by New York personalities in an Orchard Rd heavyweight.

THE OTHER ROOM

Hidden drinking house in the Singapore Marriott's lobby.

ATLAS

Swanky 1920s cocktail lounge with a 12m-high gin tower.

LEVEL 33

World’s highest urban craft brewery, with jaw-dropping Marina Bay views.

NO SLEEP CLUB

This former pop-up is now a cemented star on Singapore’s bar scene.

SAGO HOUSE

Ever-changing concoctions on a street once filled with death houses.

NATIVE

Surprising local ingredients and clever twists in trendy Amoy St.

SHOWTIME

You’ll never be at a loose end when it comes to enjoying a night on the town in Singapore. There’s live music, theatre and adrenaline-pumping activities year-round, and in certain seasons the city explodes into a flurry of sports events, cultural festivals and hot-ticket music performances.

Chinese Opera, Chinatown | Jerome Quek/shutterstock ©

Concerts & Theatrea

Singapore boasts several world-class venues that attract major international artists and bands, and host renowned Broadway musicals. But it’s not just international luminaries who bask in Singapore’s spotlight – there’s plenty of homegrown talent too. Among them are the Singapore Repertory Theatre, with its acclaimed ‘Shakespeare in the Park’, and thought-provoking production house Wild Rice, whose shows always get the island talking. Both the Singapore Dance Theatre and the Singapore Symphony Orchestra are a source of national pride.

Spectator Sports

The number-one highlight on Singapore’s sports calendar is when the Formula One Grand Prix roars into town each September. Not only does it bring in the track stars, but its entertainment lineup ensures that pumping off-track performances rival the heart-pumping on-track ones.

But if you’re not a rev-head, don’t fret, as there are plenty of other sporting tournaments to keep you entertained, including the face-paced Rugby Sevens and Asia’s leading table-tennis tournament, the Singapore Smash. New additions in 2023 included professional golf tournament the LIV Golf Open and the Singapore Football Festival, which saw four Premier League teams taking each other on at stadiums around the Little Red Dot.

Festivals & Outdoor Cinema

Embrace the eternal warmth of Singapore and partake in the fun of watching film stars under the stars. At Tanjong Beach’s sensational Sunset Cinema (sunsetcinema.com.sg), DJs weave beats as the sun dips below the horizon. Sink into a striped deckchair, slip on wireless headphones, feel the soft sand beneath your toes and behold cinematic blockbusters like never before. For a city vibe, look no further than Films at the Fort (filmsatthefort.com.sg), set against the historic backdrop of Fort Canning, where your cinematic experience is elevated with gourmet bites and plush inflatable chairs.

Events to plan your trip around include the Singapore Fringe Festival (singaporefringe.com; January), the Singapore International Festival of Arts (May–June), Jazz in July (esplanade.com/jazzinjuly), Baybeats (esplanade.com/baybeats; October), the Singapore International Film Festival (sgiff.com; November–December) and ZoukOut (zoukout.com; December).

Best Venues

ESPLANADE –THEATRES ON THE BAY

A nonstop program of international and local performances, as well as free outdoor shows.

SANDS THEATRE

Housed in Marina Bay Sands, this theatre showcases local and international musicals, concerts and performances.

SIMPLY JAZZ BY TIN BOX

Curated jazz at CHIJMES, along with delectable food and drinks.

BLUJAZ CAFÉ

Consistently good jazz and blues in Kampong Glam, with some comedy thrown in.

COMEDY MASALA

Popular weekly standup featuring international and local comedians at Hero’s bar, Robertson Quay.

THE PROJECTOR

Retro theatre in Kampong Glam shows indie and foreign films, with snacks, beer and live comedy.

ENTERTAINMENT BY NEIGHBOURHOOD

Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays

The hub of all things entertainment. Marina Bay Sands hosts Broadway musicals, classical performances captivate audiences at Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay, and standup comics and cover bands keep the night alive along the Quays. Sports fans can look forward to Formula One and numerous tournaments at the Singapore Sports Hub.

Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar & the CBD

The centuries-old tradition of Chinese opera is alive in Chinatown, with both indoor events and street opera, usually performed during the Hungry Ghost Festival. Look out for performances by the Chinese Theatre Circle and Kreta Ayer People’s Theatre.

Little India & Kampong Glam

Little India comes alive during Deepavali with cultural shows and musical performances. Kampong Glam’s Bali Lane is a local favourite for live music and comedy.

Holland Village, Botanic Gardens & Dempsey Hill

Expat-heavy Holland Village enjoys a lively music scene along bar-studded Lorong Mambong, and the nearby 5000-seat Star Theatre hosts regular performances. For a magical outdoor setting, the Shaw Foundation Symphony Stage within the Botanic Gardens hosts free events.

West & Southwest Singapore

Just a few moments from the city, the repurposed Tanjong Pagar Distripark and Pasir Panjang Power Station are funky spaces for concerts, film screenings and fashion shows.

TREASURE HUNT

World-class shopping malls, colourful local markets and a wealth of homegrown design talent make Singapore a must-shop for retail-lovers.

Bugis Str market | 2P2PLAY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

After chowing down on glorious nosh, a spot of retail therapy is Singapore's favourite pastime. Its most famous retail district is dazzling Orchard Rd, a glamorous boulevard adorned with opulent malls showcasing global fashion giants, chic high-street brands and a few discount havens – there's something for everyone. For a more local experience, Chinatown entices with cheap deals on clothes and souvenirs along with a good array of antiques. Meanwhile, Little India draws shoppers with aromatic spices, exquisite gold jewellery, brightly coloured saris and retail behemoth Mustafa, open till 2am. For local independent boutiques, Haji Lane and the surrounding streets are a treasure trove of finds, as is Joo Chiat, where Peranakan pieces also wait to be discovered. For market enthusiasts looking for trendy fashions and electronics, the bazaar in Bugis is the place to trawl for bargains; a little polite haggling is acceptable. Beyond these hubs, head to heartland neighbourhoods, where local stores wait to be explored – who knows what unique finds you'll turn up!

Local Designers

In recent years Singaporean designer talent has created a slew of unique brands, many with a touch of local flair. For a taster, make a beeline for the Design Orchard, which houses numerous designers under one roof in Orchard Rd. If your visit coincides with one of the Boutique Fairs (boutiquefairs.com.sg), well count your lucky fashion stars!

Tourist Refund Scheme

As a traveller in Singapore you may be eligible to claim the GST you’ve paid on purchases through the electronic Tourist Refund Scheme (eTRS).

At the Store

Look for the Tax-Free Shopping logo at retailers, or ask before you buy, as not all shops participate in the scheme. You'll need to spend S$100 at a single retailer on a single day – up to three same-day receipts can be collated to meet the minimum amount. Before making your purchases, inform the cashier you’re a traveller, present your passport – copies are not accepted – and show your ePass, which will be emailed to you by the immigration department once you've entered Singapore. Once your purchase is complete, collect your receipt and keep it safe. You won't receive a physical eTRS ticket, but you can check your transaction via the eTRS Singapore app or at touristrefund.sg.

At the Airport

Proceed to the eTRS self-help kiosk with your goods. For purchases that you plan to check in, you'll need to apply at the eTRS self-help kiosk at the departure check-in hall before you go through immigration and before you check in your luggage. If you're carrying your purchases on board with you, you'll need to apply at the eTRS self-help kiosk at the departure transit lounge, after immigration. The outcome of your claim will be displayed on the kiosk screen – read it carefully to see whether inspection of your goods is required at the customs counter. Choose how you'd like to receive your refund, and you're good to go!

Best Independent Shops

BEYOND THE VINES

Multidisciplinary design studio that's the epitome of SG cool.

DESIGN ORCHARD

Shop the best of Singapore's homegrown labels under one roof.

IN GOOD COMPANY

Fashion label creating modular wardrobe essentials for women and men.

NANA & BIRD

Sleek and luxurious women’s fashion and lifestyle brand.

BYND ARTISAN

Bespoke stationery and handmade leather items.

ANTHONY THE SPICE MAKER

Shop the traditional flavours of Singapore.

ATELIER ONG SHUNMUGAM

Gallery-esque womenswear with a modern spin on cheongsam.

SUPERMAMA

Contemporary designer pieces with a Singaporean theme.

SHOPPING BY NEIGHBOURHOOD
Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays | Interconnected malls, curated museum gift stores, and in-the-know fashion, books and art.
Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar & the CBD | Chinese and other antiques, food, medicines amd local art.
Little India & Kampong Glam | Spices, incense and saris in Little India; rugs, perfumes and indie boutiques in Kampong Glam.
Orchard Road | Singapore's luxury-mall-lined shopping epicentre.
Eastern Singapore | Traditional wares, from Peranakan clothing, slippers and porcelain to batik and Malaysian and Indonesian food.

Holland Village, Botanic Gardens & Dempsey Hill

High-end art and antiques in the former military base of Dempsey Hill, and expat shopping hubs Holland Village and Cluny Court.

West & Southwest Singapore | MRT-connected megamalls at Harbour Front and Jurong East.

SINGAPORE

THE GUIDE

Chapters in this section are organised by hubs and their surrounding areas. We see the hub as your base in the destination, where you’ll find unique experiences, local insights, insider tips and expert recommendations. It’s also your gateway to the surrounding area, where you’ll see what and how much you can do from there.

COLONIAL DISTRICT, MARINA BAY & THE QUAYS

CHINATOWN, TANJONG PAGAR & THE CBD

LITTLE INDIA & KAMPONG GLAM

ORCHARD ROAD

EASTERN SINGAPORE

NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE

HOLLAND VILLAGE, BOTANIC GARDENS & DEMPSEY HILL

WEST & SOUTHWEST SINGAPORE

SENTOSA ISLAND

DAY TRIPS FROM SINGAPORE

CHINATOWN | Paulharding00/shutterstock ©

NEIGHBOURHOODS AT A GLANCE

Find the neighbourhoods that tick all your boxes.

Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays

This is the palpitating heart of Singapore – a mélange of British colonial architecture, futuristic skyscrapers, world-class museums, international hotel chains, lush tropical parks, and lively riverside restaurants and bars.

THE DYNAMIC EPICENTRE OF THE CITY-STATE

Singapore skyline | NavinTar/shutterstock ©

Most travellers base themselves here, and it’s an excellent area for embarking on a journey through Singapore’s past and present.

Start your wander at the City Hall, the central interchange station where most Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) lines converge. Around the station is a medley of British colonial landmarks, including the historic Raffles Hotel, the National Gallery and St Andrew’s Cathedral. Head south across the Padang field, where the emblematic Esplanade – Theaters on the Bay and the Singapore Flyer observation wheel stand. From here, cross Marina Bay via the eclectic Helix Bridge to the lotus-shaped ArtScience Museum, futuristic Marina Bay Sands and Gardens by the Bay.

Bisecting it all, Singapore River connects Boat Quay, Clarke Quay and Robertson Quay. A walk along the quays offers a perspective on the changes Singapore has experienced through the years: from the dirt and grit of the once-filthy waterways to the gleaming steel and glass of today’s financial district. These days, the quays are lined with offices, and packed with their workers by day; by night, they transform into pulsating entertainment spots. Boat Quay’s touristy waterfront bars are interspersed with a few quality drinking dens. There’s no shortage of late-night parties at the clubs in raucous Clarke Quay, while you’ll find a more mature and sophisticated crowd at Robertson Quay, replete with wine and dining options.

Rising behind Clarke Quay is the hilltop Fort Canning Park, where you can see the remnants of war. Take a stroll in the shade of truly enormous trees, snap away at the photogenic tree tunnel or learn about Singapore’s origin story at the Battlebox Museum.

St Andrew’s Cathedral | Lifestyle Travel Photo/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

GARDENS BY THE BAY

A sprawling, futuristic botanical garden with space-age bio-domes, archetypal Supertrees and indoor waterfalls.

MARINA BAY SANDS

Topped with a panoramic observation deck, this landmark resort also houses a mall, several museums and well-known restaurants.

NATIONAL GALLERY

Singapore’s largest visual-arts venue, with over 8000 pieces of Southeast Asian art on display.

ASIAN CIVILISATIONS MUSEUM

Admire Southeast Asia’s finest collection of pan-Asian treasures in this historical museum.

TOP SIGHTS

1  Asian Civilisations Museum

2  Boat Quay

3  Clarke Quay

4  Clifford Pier

5  Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay

6  Fullerton Hotel

7  Gardens by the Bay

8  Marina Bay Sands

9  Merlion

10  National Gallery

11  National Museum of Singapore

12  Padang

13  Robertson Quay

14  Singapore Flyer

SIGHTS

15  Armenian Apostolic Church of St Gregory the Illuminator

16  Arts House

17  ArtScience Museum

18  Central Fire Station

19  Children’s Museum

20  Fort Canning

21  Fort Canning Lighthouse

22  MINT

23  National Library

24  Old Hill Street Police Station

25  Peranakan Museum

26  Raffles Hotel

27  St Andrew’s Cathedral

28  Victoria Theatre & Concert Hall

EATING

29  Boiler, The

30  Botany

31  Braci

see 11  Food for Thought

32  Glasshouse

33  JAAN

34  Jumbo Seafood

35  Labyrinth

36  Makansutra Gluttons Bay

see 10  National Kitchen by Violet Oon

37  New Ubin Seafood

see 10  Odette

38  Pó

39  PS.Cafe at One Fullerton

40  Putien Marina Bay Sands

41  Rasapura Masters

42  Song Fa Bak Kut Teh

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

43  1826

44  Capital

45  CÉ LA VI

46  Cherry Discotheque

47  Dragon Chamber

48  JU95

49  Lantern

50  Level 33

51  MARQUEE

see 10  Smoke & Mirrors

52  Southbridge

53  Supply & Demand

54  YIN at The Riverhouse

55  Zouk

ENTERTAINMENT

56  CHIJMES

SHOPPING

57  Basheer Graphic Books

58  Cat Socrates

59  Marina Square

60  Suntec City

TOP TIP

Singapore’s city centre is best explored on foot or by MRT. The interchange station, City Hall, is connected via underground malls to the Esplanade. From here, most attractions are within walking distance, but the Downtown Line gives faster access to several spots such as Gardens by the Bay (Bayfront MRT station) and Fort Canning (Fort Canning station). Clarke Quay station (North-East Line) is your gateway to the quays.

I LIVE HERE: LOCAL HAUNTS IN THE COLONIAL DISTRICT

Jolene Chew, a Singaporean urban planner, recommends under-the-radar places and beloved local hangouts.

Southbridge

One of the city’s best-kept secrets, this alfresco rooftop bar atop a heritage shophouse impresses with a 360-degree view of Singapore’s skyline.

Fort Canning Lighthouse

Perched on Fort Canning Hill since 1903, untouristed Fort Canning Lighthouse was built to guide ships safely towards Singapore Harbour.

Mama Diam

A speakeasy bar that infuses elements of the traditional mama diam (family-run convenience store), this place brings you on a nostalgic journey into Singapore’s cultural heritage.

Synthesis

This ultra-contemporary restaurant and bar gives a modern spin on traditional Chinese-medicine culture with unique cocktails and dishes.

TOP SIGHT

Gardens by the Bay

Glimpse the future at this avant-garde botanical garden, punctuated by glass-walled bio-domes, high-tech Supertrees, and contemporary sculptures. Sprawling across 101 hectares of reclaimed land in the city centre, Gardens by the Bay is an ambitious masterpiece of urban planning that cost S$1 billion to build. The result? A mind-blowing display of horticultural and architectural artistry that has completely transformed Singapore’s cityscape.

Supertree Grove | FuuTaMin/shutterstock ©

TICKETS

Scan this QR code to get tickets in advance at gardensbythebay.com.sg. Bundle tickets are available.

Supertree Grove

The centrepiece of Gardens by the Bay, the colossal Supertrees tower over the canopy like bionic sci-fi timber. Adorned with 162,900 plants from over 200 species, these steel-clad concrete structures act as vertical gardens. Seven of the 18 Supertrees also generate solar power used to light and cool the conservatories. Their large canopies absorb and disperse heat, and provide shelter for visitors walking beneath.

It’s free to roam around the grove and watch the Garden Rhapsody light-and-sound show that takes place every night at 7.45pm and 8.45pm. From the Supertree Observatory you can drink in views of Singapore’s cityscape from the open rooftop deck. In the air-conditioned indoor viewing space one level below, you can also experience a digital presentation themed around climate change. For knockout views, walk across the 22m-high OCBC Skyway that connects six Supertrees. Get tickets to the observatory and skyway at the Supertree Grove booth.

PRACTICALITIES

Travel via Gardens by the Bay station (Thomson East Coast Line), or Bayfront (Downtown Line) – take exit B and cross the overhead bridge from Marina Bay Sands.

Admission is free, but the conservatories charge separate fees.

Floral Fantasy adult/child S$20/12; 10am–6pm

Supertree Observatory adult/child S$14/10; 9am–8pm

OCBC Skyway adult/child S$12/8; 9am–8pm

Cloud Forest & Flower Dome adult/child S$53/40; 9am–8pm

Planet Sculpture & Heritage Gardens

South of the Supertree Grove lies British artist Marc Quinn's extraordinary sculpture Planet. Created in 2008, the sculpture features a colossal infant, fast asleep and seemingly floating above the ground. The bronze bubba comes in at a hefty 7 tonnes and was modelled on Quinn’s own son.

Right next to the sculpture, the Heritage Gardens are four themed green spaces showcasing plants that are intricately linked to the culture of Singapore’s three main ethnic groups and colonial past.

DON'T MISS

Supertree Observatory

OCBC Skyway

Cloud Forest

Flower Dome

Floral Fantasy

Heritage Gardens

Kingfisher Wetlands

Flower Dome & Cloud Forest

To the far north, two asymmetrical space-age bio-domes act as conservatories for more than 217,000 plants from 800 species. The Flower Dome holds the Guinness World Record for the largest glass greenhouse, occupying an area equivalent to 75 Olympic-size swimming pools. The innovative megastructure replicates a dry Mediterranean climate, maintaining a temperature of 23°C to 25°C. Free tours run every weekend from 2pm to 5pm. Dine inside the Flower Dome at the Michelin-starred Marguerite (marguerite.com.sg), helmed by Melbourne-born chef Michael Wilson, for the ultimate back-to-nature experience.

Recreating the tropical montane climate found between 1500m and 3000m altitude, the Cloud Forest houses one of the world's tallest indoor waterfalls and a lush mountain clad with plants from around the world. Feel the spray of the 35m-high waterfall, stroll the aerial Cloud Walk and look out for carnivorous Venus' flytraps, delicate blue oil ferns, and mosses.

TOP TIPS

• If you have kids, don’t miss the Children's Garden, featuring a water-play area, a huge tree house and an adventure playground (plus shower and changing facilities).

• Hire strollers (S$2), lockers (S$2 to S$6) and audio guides (S$4) at the Visitors Centre.

• There are several food options in the Gardens; open-air hawker centre Satay by the Bay (11am to 10pm) dishes up Singaporean favorites such as chilli crab and satay.

• End your day at the Marina Barrage, a popular hangout for Singaporean families and kite enthusiasts, particularly at sunset.

• Shuttles run between Bayfront MRT and the conservatories (9am to 9pm daily; S$3 return).

Floral Fantasy

Opened in 2019, the blooming Floral Fantasy interweaves floral artistry and technology. The highlight is 4D simulated-flight ride Flight of the Dragonfly, which takes you on an AR (augmented reality) journey. (Minimum height for participants is 1m.) The gardens are divided into four landscapes: wander amid flowering plants in Dance, enjoy the sounds of a bubbling brook at Float, and then enter Waltz, where a rain oasis and a poison-dart-frog vivarium await. Last, immerse yourself in the cave-like space of Drift, where 50 species of plant bloom from terraced rock formations.

Kingfisher Wetlands

Home to more than 200 native mangroves, this freshwater sanctuary features water cascades, natural rock pools and a wildlife lookout deck from which you can spot birds and reptiles.

Marina Bay Sands

SINGAPORE’S MOST ACCLAIMED ICON

Since its 2010 opening, Marina Bay Sands (marinabaysands.com) has become the symbol of Singapore, rising from the southern bank of Marina Bay against a sea of green. Costing US$5.6 billion, and designed by Israeli-born Moshe Safdie, the complex includes a hotel, a casino, a theatre, an exhibition hall, a mall and a museum.

At the core of the complex, the Marina Bay Sands Hotel features three 55-storey towers resembling propped-up playing cards. Floating atop them is the 1.2-hectare SkyPark with its internationally famous infinity pool. The pool is just for hotel guests, but the observation deck is open to the public (S$23/17 adult/child) and offers dramatic vistas across the Singapore skyline. Tip: you can enjoy the same view if you have a drink at rooftop bar-restaurant CÉ LA VI (celavi.com).

Fronting Marina Bay is the ArtScience Museum, looking like a giant white lotus framed by a lily pond. With 21 galleries spread over three storeys and covering a space of 4600 sq metres, the venue houses exhibitions that push the boundaries of science and technology. A must-visit is the permanent exhibition 'Future World: Where Art Meets Science', created by renowned Japanese digital-art collective teamLab.

Every night, Marina Bay Sands razzle-dazzles with a free water show, Spectra (8pm and 9pm daily, plus 10pm Friday and Saturday). The 15-minute extravaganza features dancing fountain jets, video projections and laser displays, backed by an orchestral soundtrack.

Marina Bay Sands Hotel | Vichy Deal/shutterstock ©

GETTING AROUND

The Colonial District, Marina Bay and the Quays are easily accessible by MRT. City Hall MRT station is the main interchange, and it's served by most train lines. Get off at City Hall station to visit the National Gallery, the Padang, the Raffles Hotel and CHIJMES. Ride the Downtown Line to Bayfront station for Marina Bay Sands, and the Thomson East Coast Line for Gardens by the Bay. Take the North East Line to Clarke Quay for the Quays and the Asian Civilisations Museum. If you’re staying in the area you can easily walk everywhere. Don’t let the tropical climate put you off walking: most sights are connected by either shaded walkways or underground malls.

Singapore Flyer

UP, UP AND AWAY!

The 165m-high Singapore Flyer (singaporeflyer.com) was the ‘World’s Biggest Observation Wheel’ until Las Vegas’ High Roller stole its title in 2014. But the Flyer still serves up million-dollar views from its location on the Marina Promenade. On a clear day, the 30-minute ride will let you gawk at the Colonial District, the CBD and Marina Bay, and out to the South China Sea. The 28 air-conditioned capsules can hold 28 passengers each, so you’ll rarely have to wait in line. Or enjoy a four-course dinner in the privacy of your own capsule with the Sky Dining experience.

Singapore Flyer | ESB Professional/shutterstock ©

BEST MARINA BAY SANDS ATTRACTIONS

Rain Oculus

A 22m-wide acrylic bowl collects the rainwater that fills the canal inside the mall in this eco-friendly installation.

Sampan Ride

Ride along the indoor canal aboard a Sampan boat, traditionally used in Southeast Asian waterways.

KOMA

The entrance to this contemporary Japanese dining venue is a striking 20m passageway lined with red torii gates reminiscent of those at Kyoto's Fushimi Inari Shrine.

MARQUEE

Singapore's largest nightclub has three floors, dramatically high ceilings and a full-size Ferris wheel.

Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay

WATERFRONT MUSIC AND PERFORMANCES

On the northern bank of Marina Bay, the S$600-million Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay features an 1800-seat concert hall, a 1940-seat theatre, and an outdoor stage. With the goal of making art accessible for everyone, the centre organises free events, including art exhibitions, indie film screenings, and music gigs. Book at esplanade.com or visit the box office.

When the complex was unveiled in 2002, critics said the aluminium spikes affixed to the glass ceilings of its twin domed shells made the building look like two upturned durians. But the ingenious spikes were designed to let in light while blocking out the tropical heat.

On the ground floor by the riverfront is a row of restaurants and bars that draw a well-heeled crowd every evening. Feast on grilled seafood at The Boiler (theboiler.com.sg) or sip a sophisticated tipple at rooftop bar Supply & Demand (supplydemandsin.business.site). Craving local cuisine? Head to Makansutra Gluttons Bay (makansutra.com) to enjoy hawker classics in a festive atmosphere.

National Gallery

SOUTHEAST ASIAN CONTEMPORARY ART

Ten years in the making, the S$530-million National Gallery (nationalgallery.sg) occupies the elegant former City Hall and Old Supreme Court buildings, which have been beautifully restored. The 64,000-sq-metre venue houses more than 8000 pieces – the world’s largest public collection of Southeast Asian modern art.

Permanent exhibition 'Between Declarations and Dreams' showcases 300 artworks that trace the art history of Southeast Asia from the mid-19th century. Those travelling with kids shouldn’t miss the gallery's Keppel Centre for Art Education, where kids are encouraged to interact with artworks and create their own masterpieces. Afterwards, duck into the National Kitchen by Violet Oon (violetoon.com) for classic Peranakan (Chinese-Malay fusion) dishes such as dry laksa and beef rendang. Reservations essential.

Prebook online or buy tickets at the Coleman Street & Padang Visitor Services Counters on Level 1. Various themed tours are held regularly; the Back-of-House tour takes you to parts of the former Supreme Court that are usually out of bounds to the public.

Padang

AN AMALGAM OF COLONIAL JEWELS

A National Monument since 2021, this 4.3-hectare field has witnessed such historic events as the victory parade following Japan’s WWII surrender.

Neo-gothic St Andrew’s Cathedral (cathedral.org.sg), built by Indian convicts and funded by Scottish merchants, was completed in 1838, then completely rebuilt in 1862 after lightning damage. At research time the nave was closed for restoration.

Built in 1827 as a private mansion, the Arts House (artshouselimited.sg) is Singapore’s oldest government building. It played various official roles before becoming Parliament House. Today, it’s an arts centre. Next to it, the regal Victoria Theatre & Concert Hall was once the town hall.

Padang | Matyas Rehak/shutterstock ©

Asian Civilisations Museum

HUNT FOR ANCIENT TREASURES

Perched beside the Singapore River, the Asian Civilisations Museum (nhb.gov.sg/acm) is both an ethnographic museum and an art gallery showcasing the history of Asian peoples and cultures. Its remarkably curated galleries, spread over three levels, are home to Southeast Asia’s most comprehensive collection of pan-Asian treasures. Objects on display tell stories of the exchange of ideas that flowed from international commerce.

Start on the ground level, where you’ll learn about Asia’s trade and maritime routes. The narrative begins in the 9th century with the Tang Shipwreck collection. A ship laden with exquisite objects and over 60,000 Tang dynasty ceramics sank more than 1000 years ago off the shores of Sumatra, and its cargo gives insights into the history of regional trade.

The galleries on the 2nd floor explore Asian religions and rituals, from their origin story to their spread across the continent, and their evolution along the way. The Ancient Religion gallery traces the spread of the grand religions of India – Buddhism, Hinduism, and Jainism – across trade routes from India to China.

Decorative art is the focus on the 3rd floor, where Asian aesthetics and craftsmanship are celebrated through ceramics, jewellery and textiles. The Chinese Ceramics collection is particularly impressive – don’t miss the ginger-root-form teapot, modelled upon a tall piece of ginger growing from the earth.

Asian Civilisations Museum | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A HISTORICAL TREASURE

The Asian Civilisations Museum is housed in the neoclassical Empress Place Building, designed by British architect John Frederick Adolphus McNair and completed in 1867 using Indian convict labour. For more than 100 years, the building housed colonial British and then Singaporean government offices. To the west of the building stands a marble statue of Sir Stamford Raffles, the British East India administrator who played a key role in Singapore's history. This was the spot where Raffles is believed to have landed in 1819.

Fullerton Hotel

A MONUMENT FIT FOR THE CITY

Constructed in 1928 and serving as Singapore’s general post office until 1996, the Fullerton Hotel was designed in the Palladian style, with fluted Doric colonnades and elaborate ornamentation. It has witnessed many pivotal events in Singapore’s history, and has served as a hospital, bomb refuge and posh quarters for the Japanese Army during WWII. The monolithic Singapore Stone, one of the country's most famous national treasures, was unearthed on the hotel's grounds: it bears a yet-to-be-deciphered inscription that dates to 1230 CE.

Fullerton Hotel | PAULHARDING00/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Merlion

SINGAPORE’S MYTHICAL CREATURE

Across Esplanade Dr from the Fullerton Hotel you'll find a statue of Singapore’s mascot, the Merlion. The Merlion’s fish-like body symbolises Singapore’s origins as a fishing village, while its leonine head represents the city’s original name, Singapura, meaning ‘lion city’ in Sanskrit. Spouting water from its jaws, the Merlion is 8.6m high and weighs 70 tonnes. Originally located at the mouth of the Singapore River, the S$165,000 statue was unveiled on 15 September 1972. While the creature itself isn’t worth a special trip to see it, the Marina Bay views make a visit worthwhile.

Merlion | TANATPON13P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Clifford Pier

EASTERN VINTAGE FLAIR

Strolling south along the waterfront, you can experience the city's swanky side at One Fullerton, where a stretch of elegant bars and restaurants beckons. Beyond them stands Clifford Pier, originally a landing point for immigrants and other sea passengers. The pier was later used as a terminal for tourists and day trippers heading for the Southern Islands by ferry.

The pier was easily recognised by the red oil-lamp beacon that shone at night as a warning to ships – locals came to call it ang theng beh thow (red-lamp harbour). Today, while its exterior is largely unchanged, Clifford Pier's interior has been converted into a sophisticated restaurant that forms part of the Fullerton Bay Hotel.

Boat Quay

WHERE OLD MEETS NEW

Like a serpent winding its way through the city, the Singapore River creates a natural border between the Colonial District and the CBD. This stretch of the riverfront is known as the Quays: Boat Quay, Clarke Quay and Robertson Quay are three distinctive areas that have been transformed from grimy commercial districts into today’s shiny financial centre.

Lying at the southern end of the river, Boat Quay is one of the city's most historical areas. For more than 150 years, bustling godowns (warehouses) and bumboats (motorised sampans) lined its banks. In time the river became extremely polluted, so the government decided to move the cargo services to a new facility in Pasir Panjang. A major clean-up campaign between 1977 and 1987 turned the Singapore River into what it is today.

The government went on to declare Boat Quay a conservation zone, and it restored many of the original Chinese shophouses, keeping their Art Deco style and five-foot ways (roofed passageways in front of shops). The area became a major entertainment district filled with touristy bars, tacky shops and menu-clutching touts luring the unwary into their waterside restaurants. Ignore the touts and head one street behind the riverfront to Circular Rd for more reasonably priced and authentic pubs and drinking dens.

Boat Quay | DerekTeo/shutterstock ©

BEST BARS IN BOAT QUAY

1826

Sample Peranakan and fusion fare at this colonial-style restaurant and bar housed in a refurbished historical shophouse. $$

JU95

An upbeat izakaya with a playful Japanese-European menu and a cocktail randomiser machine that custom-makes unique concoctions. $$

Dragon Chamber

This sexy, Eastern-inspired speakeasy unfolds itself in the dark, revealing a 93-seater space that contrasts strikingly with its humble fridge entrance. $$

Clarke Quay

PARTY THE NIGHT AWAY!

Nowhere in Singapore reflects the island’s transition better than lively Clarke Quay. In the 1800s it was the destination for goods barges: the area was colloquially known as cha jung tau ('harbour for ships carrying firewood' in the Teochew dialect). After the bumboats moved to a new facility in Pasir Panjang, the warehouses and shophouses here were abandoned and the quay fell silent.

Gazetted as a heritage district in 1989, the quay became the biggest conservation project along the Singapore River. Historic warehouses were painted in rainbow hues and the area became an open-air pedestrian precinct brimming with nightclubs, hip-hop joints and salsa bars.

A bumboat river cruise will take you throughout the quays and Marina Bay; book at the Clarke Quay jetty (S$28/18 for a 40-minute ride). Afterwards, get your night started with Chinese tapas and sophisticated cocktails at YIN at The Riverhouse (yinyang.sg/yin), housed in Singapore’s oldest Chinese mansion. Then dance the night away at Zouk (zoukclub.com), Singapore’s best-known club, with two levels of pumping action.

Clarke Quay | Richie Chan/shutterstock ©

Robertson Quay

WINE AND DINE

The largest and most upstream of the three quays, former warehouse district Robertson Quay draws a 30-plus crowd generally more interested in wining, dining and conversation than in partying till dawn. A handful of striking riverfront hangouts have popped up west of Saiboo St, including Botany (botany.com.sg), with delectable vegan options and brunch items that taste as good as they look. The Warehouse Hotel’s in-house restaurant, Pó (po.com.sg) – its name comes from popo, which means ‘grandmother’ in Chinese – serves up local comfort foods such as seafood porridge, beef rendang and popiah (fresh spring rolls).

National Museum of Singapore

DIVE DEEP INTO SINGAPORE’S PAST

It might be the nation’s oldest museum – dating back to 1887 – but there’s nothing stuffy about Singapore’s National Museum. Underneath its 19th-century colonial exterior is a high-tech institute that uses cutting-edge multimedia to take you on a journey through Singapore’s short but action-packed history.

Spanning six centuries and peppered with engaging exhibits, the History Gallery charts the development of the island from the time of its discovery as Singapura through its role as a Crown colony to its WWII experience, when it was known as Syonan-To. The galleries on level one will have you peering into opium dens, confronting harrowing tales of Japanese occupation, and even smelling the stench of the old Singapore River! On level two, exhibitions recreate snapshots of everyday life in Singapore over the past 100 years – from the buzz and fashion of the colonial era to war survivors' stories of resilience and hope. The final exhibit, Voices of Singapore, explores the island's modern identity through cultural artefacts and performing arts.

Inside the 16m-high Glass Rotunda is a special installation created by Japanese collective teamLab: Story of the Forest transforms 69 drawings from the William Farquhar Collection of Natural History Drawings into three-dimensional animations framed by the natural foliage of Fort Canning.

The museum offers free hour-long guided tours of the History Gallery at 11am and 2pm (plus a 3pm session on Saturday and Sunday).

National Museum of Singapore | TuananhVu/shutterstock ©

A STEP INTO THE MODERN WORLD

Originally built as the Raffles Library and Museum in 1887, an elegant neo-Palladian building has been the regal home of the National Museum for the past 122 years. From 2003 to 2006, the National Museum underwent a major redevelopment to restore the complex to its former glory. The superb neoclassical wing boasts a breathtaking rotunda adorned with 50 panels of stained glass.

MORE IN COLONIAL DISTRICT & THE QUAYS

Explore War Bunkers at Fort Canning

RETRACE WAR HISTORY

For a peek at the Singapore of pre-colonial times, visit Fort Canning. The hill it occupies was once the palatial grounds of 14th-century Malay kings who ruled over the island – Malaya princesses bathed in the springs here, while ancient craftsmen plied their trades for the royal family. When the British took over the island, Raffles built his residence here and established the first botanic gardens to stimulate agriculture in Singapore.

During the Battle of Singapore, Fort Canning became an artillery fort complete with barracks, officers' quarters and underground bunkers. The decision to surrender Singapore to the Japanese was made on 15 February 1942 in a hilltop command centre, which was later named Battle Box (battlebox.com.sg). Today you can descend almost 9m underground into the bomb-proof bunker and wander the eerie 26-room maze. Life-size models recreate the morning when Singapore fell to invading forces. At the time of writing, Battle Box was closed for upgrades but soon set to reopen.

South of the Battle Box are nine historical gardens that ring the reservoir. The Artisans’ Garden is one of Singapore's last archaeological-dig sites, where researchers found evidence of an ancient artisans' workshop. The glorious Balinese-style Sang Nila Utama Garden – named after the Palembang prince believed to be the first ancient king of Singapore – is a recreation of Southeast Asian gardens from the 14th century. Majestic Javanese split gates greet you at the entrance, while statues of frogs, fish and ducks bring back the old fauna of the palace gardens. The Fort Canning Tree Tunnel at the northern end of the park is an extremely popular spot with photographers; don’t be surprised if you have to wait in line for a shot of the tree-laden spiral stairway.

Battle Box, Fort Canning | ALIZADA STUDIOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BEST CHEAP EATS IN THE COLONIAL DISTRICT & MARINA BAY

Makansutra Gluttons Bay

Esplanade’s bayside outdoor food hall has hawker stalls slinging satay and barbecue stingray. $

Satay by the Bay

Gardens by the Bay's open-air hawker centre is somewhat overpriced, but its waterfront setting makes it a great spot to try local staples. $

Song Fa Bak Kut Teh

This local chain has attained cult status with its bak kut teh (pork ribs simmered in a peppery broth). $

Rasapura Masters

Gleaming air-conditioned food court in the Marina Bay Sands basement. $

HOTELS WITH THE BEST MARINA BAY VIEWS

Marina Bay Sands

Million-dollar views of skyscrapers on one side and the Gardens by the Bay on the other. $$$

Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore

Deluxe hotel whose floor-to-ceiling windows offer views of Marina Bay and the Singapore Flyer. $$$

Fullerton Hotel

The former General Post Office is a 400-room grand hotel with romantic river panoramas. $$$

Andaz Singapore

Located in a futuristic twin-towered complex with a rooftop bar and high-level suites overlooking the bay. $$$

The Westin Singapore

Jaw-dropping views from the outdoor infinity pool, the impressive 32-floor lobby and the immaculate rooms. $$$

Fullerton Bay Hotel

Newish 100-room hotel that's a more intimate alternative to its older sibling, the Fullerton Hotel. $$$

Museums, Churches & Landmarks

UNVEIL SINGAPORE’S HERITAGE

Stretching along the eastern base of Fort Canning is Armenian St, a newly pedestrianized boulevard marked by various museums and institutes that have shaped and preserved Singapore’s history. A new park has been created here to connect Fort Canning Park, Bras Basah and Bugis to form an expanded arts, cultural and heritage precinct.

Make your first stop at the Peranakan Museum (nhb.gov.sg/peranakanmuseum) to explore the rich heritage of the Peranakans – people of mixed Chinese and Malay/Indonesian descent. Most Peranakans in Singapore are descendants of Chinese traders who married local Malay women.

Housed inside a classic Straits Settlements bungalow, the museum has the world’s finest collection of Peranakan artefacts, spread out in 10 permanent galleries across three floors. Various aspects of this hybrid Southeast Asian culture are brought to life here through interactive and multimedia exhibits. A highlight is the exhibit on the traditional 12-day wedding ceremony, where intricately detailed ceremonial costumes, beautifully carved wedding beds and rare dining porcelain are on display.

As you stroll along Armenian St, notice the plants that range along both sides of the walkway. The plant collections have been carefully curated to represent the Peranakan culture, according to their use in recipes (such as curries and desserts) and their symbolic value to the Peranakans.

Further south along Armenian St is the eponymous Armenian Apostolic Church of St Gregory the Illuminator. Consecrated in 1836, this is the oldest church in Singapore. The Armenians were the first Christian community to build a permanent place of worship in Singapore. Designed by Singapore’s pioneer colonial architect, George Coleman, this neoclassical building features a Greek cruciform plan and elegant Roman Doric columns. The tower and spire were added in the 1850s.

At the southern end of Armenian St, at the junction with Coleman St, stands the Children’s Museum (nhb.gov.sg/childrensmuseum), opened in late 2022. It may be small, but it’s the first museum in Singapore dedicated to visitors aged under 12. Don’t miss the Hidden Chamber, an immersive theatre show in which the Captain opens his secret stash of treasure and shares stories about its origins. Tiny tots (aged two to four) can explore the Play Pod, a fun area for free play, while older kids can explore the Maze of Amazement.

KID-FRIENDLY SPOTS IN THE COLONIAL DISTRICT

Children’s Museum

Singapore’s first kid-centric museum, complete with immersive shows and interactive displays.

National Gallery

Let your kids’ imaginations run free at the Keppel Centre for Art Education, a wonderful corner dedicated to nurturing children’s creativity.

ArtScience Museum

This high-tech interactive museum impresses kids from tots to teens with its roaming exhibitions of digital exhibits and futuristic displays.

Singapore Duck Tours

Go on an informative and fun tour aboard a brightly coloured amphibious former military vehicle around Marina Bay.

PERANAKAN CULTURE

Singapore's Peranakan culture is showcased in the city's shophouses, particularly in the Katong neighbourhood. To imagine life inside these residences, visit Baba House on Neil Rd: the three-storey restored townhouse has a collection of antique furniture, textiles and ceramics.

POPULAR RESTAURANTS IN MARINA BAY

Jumbo Seafood

A household name in Singapore, this decades-old institution has gained a loyal following with its sauce-slathered chilli crab. $$

National Kitchen by Violet Oon

Taste Singapore’s finest Peranakan (Chinese-Malay fusion) flavours in a restaurant helmed by a local celebrity chef. $$$

Putien Marina Bay Sands

A Singapore brand serving Fujian cuisine with the freshest ingredients. $$

New Ubin Seafood

Specialising in kampong-style seafood, this homegrown brand delivers elevated local fare, with dishes such as foie-gras satay. $$

SINGAPORE'S GIANT FERRIS WHEEL

Hop aboard Singapore’s biggest Ferris wheel, the Singapore Flyer, for the best views of the city skyline. It's just a short walk from Marina Bay Sands.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE COLONIAL DISTRICT

Raffles Hotel

Established in 1887, this heritage hotel is a destination in its own right. $$$

Capitol Kempinski Hotel

In the neoclassical-style Capitol Building, this art-deco gem has a Michelin-star restaurant. $$$

Hotel Fort Canning

Regal colonial hotel amid the greenery of Fort Canning, where officers once stood to attention. $$$

Admire Singapore’s Architectural Pin-Ups

SNAP A SHOT OR TWO

Standing at the southern foot of Fort Canning are two architectural marvels that have long stood out for their striking designs. Dating back to 1909, the Central Fire Station sports a distinctive red-and-white brick facade, a characteristic of what is commonly known as ‘blood-and-bandage’ architecture. The ‘blood’ points to the exposed red bricks on the facade, while the ‘bandage’ refers to the plaster layovers that are painted white.

Still an active station, this national monument also houses the Civil Defence Heritage Gallery, which recounts the firefighting history of Singapore. On display are various types of fire engines, including the first horse-drawn steam fire engine to arrive in Singapore – in 1884. The interactive stations are great for kids to learn about what firefighters and first responders experience while they're on duty. The station runs free guided tours on Saturday at 9am and 10am. Book via the SCDF website (scdf.gov.sg).

Just a few metres south is the photogenic Old Hill Street Police Station, which often appears in tourism brochures thanks to its eye-catching neo-Renaissance design and colourful shutters. When it was constructed in 1934, the six-storey building was the biggest and grandest of its kind in Malaya, with over 280 living quarters. During the Japanese occupation it was a notorious interrogation centre. The former police station is now the government office for the Ministry of Information, Communications and Arts.

BEST RESTAURANTS IN THE QUAYS

Peony Jade

Voted one of Singapore's best dim sum restaurants; this Boat Quay branch serves dumplings of all varieties, plus hyped molten-lava bao (steamed buns). $$$

Botany

Treat yourself to vegan platters and hearty dishes such as Sichuan mala chicken. $$

Pó

Indulge in Singaporean comfort food at the Warehouse Hotel’s restaurant, Pó, in Robertson Quay. $$

Braci

This Michelin-star restaurant in Boat Quay features an open kitchen, a rooftop bar and progressive Italian nosh. $$$

WHERE TO STAY IN THE QUAYS

KINN Capsule Hotel

Minimalistic capsule hotel in Boat Quay that's so sparkling clean even Marie Kondo would approve. $

Park Regis

Affable place in Clarke Quay with small, light-filled rooms and a rooftop pool with semi-submerged sunloungers. $$

The Warehouse Hotel

This industrial-chic hotel was restored from an 1895 godown (warehouse) in Robertson Quay. $$$

Colonial Grandeur at the Raffles Hotel

RELISH THE SINGAPORE OF YESTERYEAR

If there’s one building in Singapore that has largely remained the same (at least on the outside) since the city's colonial days, it's the Raffles Hotel. Built in 1887 as a 10-room hotel fronting the beach (long gone thanks to land reclamation), the island's oldest and most iconic place to stay has undergone just two restorations in its 132-year history – notable in a city where change is the only constant. After the recent two-year major renovation, the Raffles unveiled a new chapter in August 2019, with revamped suites, new marble floors, and the addition of technological devices to every room. Thankfully, the hotel’s neo-Renaissance facade – and the gravel driveway that once welcomed horse-drawn carriages – have been left untouched.

Although its resplendent lobby is only accessible to hotel and restaurant guests, this slumber palace is worth a quick visit for its magnificent ivory frontage, famous Sikh doorman and hushed tropical grounds. Whether you’re strolling through its gardens or popping into one of its bars, a visit here offers the chance to time travel. The Raffles was the brainchild of the Sarkies brothers, immigrants from Armenia and proprietors of two other grand colonial hotels: the Strand in Yangon and the Eastern & Oriental in Penang. The hotel's famous Singapore Sling was first concocted by bartender Ngiam Tong Boon in 1915. The last tiger to be killed in Singapore was pursued at the hotel and was finally shot while cowering under the Bar & Billiard Room. A shabby relic by the 1970s, the property dodged the wrecking ball in 1987 with National Monument designation, reopening in 1991 after a S$160-million facelift.

Raffles Hotel | RALF TOOTEN ©

BEST FINE DINING IN THE COLONIAL DISTRICT & MARINA BAY

Odette

Modern French cuisine served amid sophisticated decor in the National Gallery. $$$

JAAN

Michelin-star restaurant serving a British-inspired tasting menu against a dramatic skyline view. $$$

Labyrinth

Helmed by chef LG Han, Labyrinth's kitchen reinvents Singaporean dishes such as chilli crab and chicken rice. $$$

BEST ROOFTOP BARS IN MARINA BAY

Level 33

Slurp house-brewed beer at ‘the world’s highest urban craft brewery’, with a jaw-dropping view over Marina Bay.

CÉ LA VI

Perfect panorama from Marina Bay Sands’ cantilevered rooftop bar.

Smoke & Mirrors

The National Gallery's rooftop bar unveils point-blank views of Marina Bay and the Padang.

Lantern

Stylish bar atop the Fullerton Bay Hotel, backdropped by up-close views of Marina Bay.

A Night Out at CHIJMES

CONVENT SCHOOL TURNED NIGHTLIFE HUB

If the Raffles Hotel is too chi-chi for you, hop across the road to CHIJMES (pronounced ‘chimes’), a historic complex housing a cloister of heaving bars and upscale restaurants. It’s open to the public and free to visit – wander through its beautiful fountain-lit courtyards and admire the intricately designed metal staircases and stained-glass windows. Dating back to 1854, the building was originally a convent school named CHIJ (Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus), established by an order of French Catholic nuns. Designed by the renowned Irish architect George Coleman, the complex features diverse architectural styles ranging from Anglo-French Gothic to neoclassical.

The main building after you enter the complex, Caldwell House, was the residence of a senior magistrate’s clerk before the nuns bought it to serve as their headquarters. The other buildings were added in later years to become what was colloquially known as the Town Convent. To the right of the main building, the CHIJMES Hall was the former chapel; its most notable features are its 648 columns, each carved with motifs and birds, and its 30,000 pieces of Belgian stained glass.

Today the complex has been revamped as CHIJMES, a play on words using the convent's original name. The beautiful Gothic chapel is used as a venue for parties and weddings, while the other buildings play host to restaurants and live-music bars. Among the most notable venues are Simply Jazz by Tin-box (tinbox.sg), led by local jazz maestro Jeremy Monteiro; an outpost of the popular alfresco-bar chain Privé (privechijmes.com.sg); and the Michelin-star Whitegrass (whitegrass.com.sg), serving classic French cuisine with a Japanese touch.

CHIJMES | KRISBIANTOANDY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WHERE TO PARTY

Zouk

Ask Singaporeans where to party and Zouk is unequivocally the answer. This household name at Clarke Quay has been hosting revellers for 29 years.

MARQUEE

Marina Bay Sands' exclusive club houses a full-size Ferris wheel and a three-storey slide.

Capital

Zouk’s latest venture is an upscale venue for a mature crowd: the minimum age requirement is 21 for women and 23 for men.

Cherry Discotheque

This retro cave, only open Friday and Saturday, spins new and old-school hip-hop, techno and street music.

BEST CAFES IN THE COLONIAL DISTRICT

Glasshouse

Minimalist cafe at CHIJMES whose all-day breakfast menu brims with classics such as bagels and salmon tartines. $$

PS.Cafe at One Fullerton

Waterfront branch of the beloved local chain; luscious setting and the same crowd-pulling menu. $$

Food for Thought

Singaporean-inspired bistro fare at the National Museum; showstoppers include the soft-shell chilli-crab linguine. $$

Get Nostalgic at the MINT Museum of Toys

A TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE

MINT may be a Museum of Toys, but it’s really designed for nostalgic parents rather than kids – in fact, MINT (emint.com) actually stands for Moment of Imagination and Nostalgia with Toys. Founded by toy collector Chang Yang Fa in 2007, this four-storey building stores his personal collection of more than 50,000 items (around 8000 of which are on display). The toys hail from 40 countries and date as far back as the 1840s; they run the gamut from rare Flash Gordon comics to original Mickey Mouse dolls.

Beyond the toys, the permanent collection includes two galleries devoted to vintage enamel signs. The museum also stages quarterly exhibitions. The most recent one, 'UNBOX', aims to depict generational movements through toys and showcases some of its never-before-seen collections. The museum offers a free guided tour every Wednesday at 10:30am or 3:30pm. There’s also a small gift shop selling replica tin toys and old-school games.

MINT Museum of Toys | TOILETROOM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOOKWORMS ALERT!

The Central Library is fittingly located next to the Bras Basah Complex, known among Singaporeans as Book City. The unofficial Book Central of Singapore is a bibliophile’s dream come true, overflowing with old-school bookshops and vintage hobby stores. Basheer Graphic Books (basheergraphic.com) is stocked from floor to ceiling with all kinds of graphic books, from fashion titles to architecture-themed coffee-table tomes. Check out Cat Socrates (catsocrates.com.sg) for quirky knickknacks, pretty stationery and unique Singaporean souvenirs.

BEST COLONIAL DISTRICT TOURS

The Original Singapore Walks

Get an overview of Singapore’s past and present on the Time of Empire walking tour.

Singapore River Cruise

Journey from Clarke Quay to Marina Bay aboard an old-school wooden sampan.

Duck Tours

Cruise around the Civic District on a remodelled WWII amphibious Vietnamese warcraft before touring the harbour.

Visit a Bibliophile's Dream

SINGAPORE'S COOLEST LIBRARY

Showered with architectural awards before it had even opened, the futuristic National Library (nlb.gov.sg) was designed by Malaysian architect and ecologist Ken Yeang. This curvaceous brains trust is made up of two towers, linked by walkways and covered almost entirely with glass. The spacious reference section and the study rooms on the upper floors offer great views across the city. If you have little ones in tow, head to the forest-themed children’s library in the basement for some story time.

LOCAL BRANDS IN MARINA BAY

Supermama

With multiple locations including one in the National Museum, Supermama has gained a loyal following with its wittily designed souvenirs.

When I Was Four

Everything here has a local slant, from Singaporean-motif-inspired tees to leopard-balm socks.

Love, Bonito

Ethical fashion brand founded by Singaporean Rachel Lim; there are several branches around the island.

TWG Tea

Singaporean luxury teahouse chain with 23 outlets across the city, including one in Marina Bay Sands mall.

Malls Galore

A SHOPPER’S PARADISE

The Marina Bay area has no shortage of shopping malls providing a bit of retail therapy or some air-conditioned respite from the tropical heat. Suntec City (sunteccity.com.sg), part of the massive Convention Centre and Exhibition Hall, has more than 1000 shops and 300 restaurants. You’ll find retail titans such as Uniqlo, The Body Shop and Nike, and the sprawling Giant Hypermarket. Kids will be entertained for hours at the mall's SuperPark (superpark.com.sg), an all-purpose indoor activity park complete with giant trampolines, a game arena, a skate hall and a climbing wall.

The main appeal of Suntec City is the Fountain of Wealth, which holds the Guinness record as the World’s Largest Fountain. With four bronze legs supporting an elevated bronze ring, its design is based on the Hindu mandala, which represents the quality and harmony of all races and religions. It’s believed that you can absorb the positive energy of the fountain by walking around it clockwise three times while stretching out your right hand over the water. The fountain area is open daily from 10am to noon, 2pm to 4pm, and 6pm to 7.30pm.

Adjacent to Suntec City is Marina Square (marinasquare.com.sg), another large shopping space, with over 250 outlets including global brands such as Zara, Keen and Massimo Dutti.

Connecting all the malls to City Hall MRT station is the City Link, a seemingly endless underground tunnel of retail and food outlets. Designed by New York’s Kohn Pedersen Fox, the underground mall links Suntec City, Marina Square and the Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay. It’s a handy means of escaping searing sun or teeming rain.

Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar & the CBD

AMAZING BLEND OF OLD AND NEW

When Raffles carved up Singapore along ethnic lines, Chinese settlers were allocated the land west of the Singapore River, and this land was further divided into areas for each provincial origin and dialect group.

Finn stock/shutterstock ©

Streets took on their own identities as particular groups specialised in certain professions – the Hokkien and Teochew were commonly associated with trade and agriculture, the Cantonese and Hakka with handicrafts and construction, and the Hainanese with cooking. Life in colonial Chinatown was tough on new immigrants – the lack of clean water and proper sanitation led to sickness and death, labour was gruelling and living quarters were cramped. Many sought fleeting moments of escapism in the surrounding opium dens. Despite the district’s name, not all the original inhabitants of Chinatown were Chinese – historic Muslim mosques and Indian temples dot the neighbourhood’s streets.

Today Chinatown’s heritage-listed shophouses are dwarfed by the skyscrapers of Singapore’s financial district, which only adds to the area’s unique charm. Gone are the filth-strewn back lanes, heady opium dens, clattering rickshaws and makeshift street-food stalls; they’ve been replaced by an efficient transport system, organised hawker food centres, rainbow-coloured street art, and a booming restaurant and bar scene.

But Singapore’s modern-day Chinatown isn’t dull – far from it. The lantern-strewn neighbourhood starts pumping well before dawn as wet markets spring into life, catering to home cooks and international restaurant chefs; the area begins to buzz with workers grabbing breakfast at local kopitiams (coffee shops), businesses rolling up their shutters to hawk their wares, and residents descending on community spaces for a tense battle of Chinese checkers. As the sun dips, office workers head home via five-foot ways, trendy bars fill for happy hour, long-time favourite restaurants heave, and word-of-mouth eateries unlock their doors for the in-the-know crowd. Chinatown continues to be one of the most spirited neighbourhoods in Singapore.

Chinese New Year festivities | ALUXUM/GETTY IMAGES ©

DON’T MISS

BABA HOUSE

Experience old-style Peranakan life at one of Singapore’s most beautiful heritage homes.

BUDDHA TOOTH RELIC TEMPLE

This five-storey Buddhist temple is home to what is reputedly a tooth of the Buddha.

SINGAPORE CITY GALLERY

See how Singapore has grown, and glimpse its future.

CHINATOWN HERITAGE CENTRE

Evocative museum detailing the history of the immigrants who gave this part of town its name.

TOP SIGHTS

1  Baba House

2  Pinnacle@Duxton

3  Red Star

4  Tong Mern Sern Antiques

SIGHTS

5  5 Oasia Hotel Downtown

6  People’s Park Complex

7  Seng Wong Beo Temple

EATING

8  Duxton Hill

9  Everton Park HDB

10  Keong Saik Rd

11  Lau Pa Sat

12  Olivia Restaurant & Lounge

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

13  No Sleep Club

TOP TIP

Chinese New Year festivities are held all over Singapore, but Chinatown really paints the town red (the colour associated with happiness and good fortune). The neighbourhood comes alive with lion dances, markets, parades and lanterns. Practically everything shuts down during the two public-holiday dates, as people stay home to celebrate with family.

I LIVE HERE: SECRET SINGAPORE

Carey Cookson, a Singapore tour guide, tells us some of her favourite off-the-radar spots in Chinatown. janestours.sg/tour-guides/carey-cookson

Siang Cho Keong Temple

Family run since 1868, this delightful Taoist temple is impossibly small but perfectly formed. Peek at its shrine to the Tiger God.

Ann Siang Hill Water Well

In the back alley behind Amoy St you’ll find one of Singapore’s old wells. At the turn of the 20th century there were an estimated 4000 wells here; this is one of the last remaining.

Oasia Hotel Downtown

Architecture and nature in harmony: this building stands as a living tower of 21 species of creeper and increases the greenery of its plot of land tenfold.

Red Star

OLD-SCHOOL HDB DIM SUM

Replete with trolley-clutching aunties who swoop like fighter jets, straight-out-of-the-'80s Red Star is the perfect spot for Hong Kong–style dim sum. The space is vast and usually heaving, so keep your ears pricked for the pork bao, cheong fun and liu sha bao, the latter a smooth bun filled with runny salted egg-yolk custard. This nostalgic gem is tucked away on the 7th floor of a public-housing block (colloquially known as an HDB in reference to the government's Housing Development Board): Block 54 Chin Swee Rd. Look for red signs. Dim sum is only served during the day.

Red Star Restaurant | cherry-hai/shutterstock ©

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

MAJESTIC TEMPLE HOUSING RELIGIOUS ARTEFACTS

Built in 2007, this hulking, Tang-style Chinese Buddhist temple is home to what is reputedly the left canine tooth of the Buddha, discovered in a collapsed stupa (Buddhist relic structure) in Mrauk U, Myanmar.

While its authenticity is debated, the relic enjoys VIP status inside a 320kg solid-gold stupa in a dazzlingly ornate 4th-floor room.

More religious relics await at the 3rd-floor Buddhism museum, while the peaceful rooftop garden features a huge prayer wheel inside a 10,000 Buddha Pavilion. Entry is free; respectful attire is a must.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple | anuchit kamsongmueang/Getty Images ©

TOP SIGHTS

1  Anthony the Spice Maker

2  Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

3  Chinatown Heritage Centre

4  Native

5  Singapore City Gallery

6  Singapore Musical Box Museum

7  Sri Mariamman Temple

8  Thian Hock Keng Temple

SIGHTS

9  Ann Siang Hill Water Well

10  Siang Cho Keong Temple

EATING

11  A Noodle Story

12  Amoy Street Food Centre

13  Chinatown Complex

14  Cloudstreet

see 1  Hawker Chan

15  J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff

16  Maxwell Food Centre

17  Tippling Club

18  Ya Kun Kaya Toast

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

19  Club Street

20  Sago House

21  Tea Chapter

Chinatown Heritage Centre

DELVE INTO CHINATOWN'S CHAOTIC PAST

Visit the immersive Chinatown Heritage Centre to explore the gritty backstory of how Chinatown came to be. Housed in a converted shophouse and occupying several levels, its exhibitions shed light on numerous historical chapters, from the perilous voyages of Singapore's early Chinese settlers to the development of local clan associations and even the opium dens that once defined the area. It's an evocative place, digging well beneath modern Chinatown's touristy veneer. The museum is physically tiny, so arrive just after opening to beat the crowds. At research time the museum was closed for a revamp, but it's slated to reopen in 2024.

Pinnacle@ Duxton

PUBLIC-HOUSING VIEWS

For killer city views for a bargain S$6, head to the 50th-floor rooftop of Pinnacle@Duxton, the world's largest public-housing complex. The project consists of seven 50-storey apartment towers connected by two levels of Skybridge, which provide a 360-degree sweep of the city, port and sea. Find the 'blink, or you'll miss it' ticket booth at level one, Block G, hand over your cash and register your Ez-Link transport card before taking the lift up to the 50th floor, where you'll tap your card at the gate – stand inside the turnstile before tapping. Chilling out is encouraged, with patches of lawn, modular furniture and sunloungers. Only 150 visitors are allowed each day. Sunset is the best time to visit, but there's a chance you'll miss out if the daily quota is reached. The Pinnacle@Duxton is one of an ever-growing number of bold architectural statements that make up Singapore's skyline. It showcases a new way of designing and planning, and meeting public housing needs in increasingly urban environments.

Central area model, Singapore City Gallery | CHERRY-HAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Singapore City Gallery

PLAN FOR THE PERFECT CITY

Singapore did not just happen. Every inch of the sparkling metropolis was painstakingly planned, and this free gallery provides an insight into the city's rapid evolution and future growth. Five galleries house the permanent exhibits; the first, 'Singapore; Vibrant City', is a dramatic 270-degree panoramic film on a 12m screen offering a 24-hour perspective on the island. Once you've understood what 'home' is for Singapore, continue through the numerous interactive and immersive exhibits and galleries, which provide compelling commentary on the government's resolute land-reclamation policies, high-rise housing and meticulous urban planning. The Central Area Model, which offers a 3D bird's-eye view of Singapore's central district, is a highlight. It's continuously updated to reflect Singapore's constantly changing urban landscape.

Baba House

BEAUTIFUL PERANAKAN HERITAGE HOME

Beautiful blue Baba House, one of Singapore's best-preserved Peranakan heritage homes, is a must-visit for those seeking to delve into the rich tapestry of Singapore's history and traditions. Built in the 1890s, this three-storey prewar terrace house nestled along Neil Rd was the ancestral home of shipping tycoon Wee Bin. The house was acquired by the National University of Singapore, which set about renovating it so it best matched how it would have looked in 1928, when the Wee family believes the building was at its most splendid.

The bright-blue facade is one of the few remaining frontages to be adorned with a high degree of Chinese-style plaster and brightly coloured porcelain ornamentation. Step inside and marvel at the meticulously maintained period furniture and antiques, as well as the building's intricate and elaborate architectural details. You'll learn the stories of the house and its former occupants, whose original family photos still grace the walls. The ornate bedrooms on the 2nd floor are a sight to behold: look out for the tenong (wedding-gift box), which takes pride of place.

The 3rd-storey gallery houses information on the research and materials used in the house's restoration and several artefacts uncovered during on-site excavations. Temporary exhibitions on Peranakan themes are also held here.

Visits are by appointment only. Heritage tours are entertaining and informative, but self-guided visits are available by time-slot booking as well. Visit babahouse.nus.edu.sg.

Baba House | JASON KNOTT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

SHOPHOUSE STREETS & EATS

Off the usual tourist trail, the streets behind Neil Rd are filled with shophouse gems, and dotted with galleries, street art and hip coffee shops – they're definitely worth a meander. Keep your eyes peeled for heritage murals by Singaporean artist Yip Yew Chong painted on the sides of shophouses along Everton Rd. Afterwards, head to Everton Park HDB, an up-and-coming enclave where third-wave coffee bloggers and design hunters congregate, sipping single-origin blends and noshing on bakery bites.

PERANAKAN PLACES TO DEEP DIVE

Other stunning examples of Peranakan shophouses can be found along Petain Rd in Jalan Besar and Koon Seng Rd in Joo Chiat (Katong), the heart of Singapore's Peranakan community. To learn more about this fascinating culture, drop by the Peranakan Museum.

Native

DRINKS AND EATS FROM THE REGION

When this hidden bar, helmed by bartender extraordinaire Vijay Mudaliar, hit hotspot-heavy Amoy St in 2016, it quickly became the talk of the town. Cocktail connoisseurs were smitten with the ever-changing concoctions created with regional spirits – such as Thai rum and Sri Lankan arak – and locally foraged ingredients. The concept has since evolved to include a restaurant downstairs, where curated bites meld local and regional flavours; it's the perfect spot to grab a pre- or post-cocktail meal. Don’t miss a peek at the 3rd-storey fermentation lab, where the magic in many of Native’s tipples happens.

Sri Mariamman Temple

SINGAPORE'S OLDEST HINDU TEMPLE

Sri Mariamman Temple stands as Singapore's oldest Hindu temple, originally constructed in 1823 and rebuilt in 1843. The strikingly vivid 1930s gopuram (tower) at the entrance serves as a defining feature of the temple's South Indian Dravidian architectural style. The temple's perimeter walls are adorned with sacred cow sculptures, while the gopuram is embellished with plasterwork depictions of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, representing the trinity of creator, preserver and destroyer. Each October the temple hosts the eye-opening Thimithi festival, during which Hindu devotees showcase their faith by hot-footing it over glowing coals.

Sri Mariamman Temple | R.M. Nunes/shutterstock ©

Thian Hock Keng Temple

SYMBOLIC HOKKIEN PLACE OF WORSHIP

Chinatown's oldest and most important Hokkien temple is often a haven of tranquillity. Built between 1839 and 1842, it's a beautiful place and was the favourite landing point of Chinese sailors before land reclamation pushed the sea far down the road. The temple's design features are richly symbolic: the stone lions at the entrance ward off evil spirits, while the painted depictions of phoenixes and peonies in the central hall symbolise peace and good tidings, respectively. During restoration works in 1998, one of the roof beams revealed a scroll written by the Qing emperor Guangxu bestowing blessings on Singapore's Chinese community. On the outside rear wall, don't miss the 44m mural by artist Yip Yew Chong of Singapore's Hokkien immigrants.

Anthony the Spice Maker

SINGAPOREAN SPICES TO GO

If you're keen to replicate the aromas and flavours of Singapore at home, then a stop at this little spice treasure trove is a must. Helmed by Anthony, a second-generation spice maker, and his daughter, the shop is stocked with numerous packets and jars, each containing a heady spice or blend. If you need help choosing, the staff are only too happy to assist you in making the perfect flavour selection. The Curry Powder Singapura and the Meat Rendang Blend are standouts.

Anthony the Spice Maker | Jason Knott/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Singapore Musical Box Museum

TREASURE TROVE OF MELODIES

Music and instrument enthusiasts will love this fascinating journey through music history and be captivated by the exquisite melodies of these antique music boxes, some more than two centuries old. Peer into the inner workings of the very first – and rather basic – boxes, all the way through to cupboard-sized, multi-instrument music makers. One was even destined for the ill-fated Titanic but missed the boat! There's something for everyone: older generations will relish the timeless tunes, and youngsters will marvel at what the precursor to today's iPod looked like. Tour reservations must be made in advance at singaporemusicalboxmuseum.org.

Tong Mern Sern Antiques

ANTIQUE GEM HUNTING

In contrast to all the gentrified shophouses along Craig Rd is the slightly worn-around-the-edges Tong Mern Sern Antiques store. An Aladdin's cave packed to the gills with dusty furniture, books, records, woodcarvings, porcelain and other bits and bobs, Tong Mern Sern is a hunting ground for Singapore nostalgia and treasure.

Moreover, it doubles as a workshop where long-forgotten pieces of history are restored and repaired for a new lease on life. Here, there's no pushy sales pitch; instead, you're welcome to engage in conversations about your own recently discovered curios.

The tongue-in-cheek banner hung above the front door proclaims: 'We buy junk and sell antiques. Some fools buy. Some fools sell'. Best have your wits about you.

A QUIET MORNING IN TIONG BAHRU

A walking tour is the best way to soak up the vibe in Singapore’s very first public housing estate. Begin at the 1 Tiong Bahru Market & Food Centre, and explore the ground-floor wet market and upper-floor hawker centre. Head out along Eng Hoon St and duck into 2 Tiong Bahru Bakery for a morning caffeine hit and a pastry. Continue down the road till you hit the intersection and cross to check out 3 Qi Tian Gong Temple, dedicated to the Monkey God. From here it’s a short stroll to 4 Ah Chiang’s, a retro kopitiam (coffee shop) where the star is the charcoal-fired porridge. As you wend your way towards Yong Siak St, take note of the area’s 1920s industrial-inspired architecture: the buildings were built to resemble automobiles, trains, ocean liners and aeroplanes from that era. Once you reach Yong Siak St, spend some time ducking in and out of hip stores such as independent fashion boutique 5 Nana & Bird, charming children’s bookstore 6 Woods in the Books and quirky 7 Cat Socrates (mind the feline shopkeepers). Follow the road around as it curves, looking out for old-school corner noodle shop 8 Hua Bee. If it’s lunchtime, it’ll be doing a roaring trade, but for something a little bit unique, head up the car-park driveway and take a left; the second door will lead you to secret yakitori bar 9 Bincho, one of Singapore’s best. Finally, head back down Seng Poh Rd, in the direction of the Market and Food Centre, and take a detour down Seng Poh Lane to view the mural 10 ‘Bird Singing Corner’, reminiscent of days long gone when residents would bring their songbirds here to hear them sing.

MORE IN CHINATOWN, TANJONG PAGAR & THE CBD

Next-Gen Hawker Stalls

TASTE THE FUTURE OF HAWKER CUISINE

Hawker culture is deeply intertwined in the culinary DNA of Singapore, a fact rightfully recognised when this dimension of the city's food scene earned a place on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2020. But as the older generation of hawkers heads into retirement, many Singaporeans worry that this integral part of Singapore's national identity will be lost. Taking up the challenge, a new breed of hawkers is dishing out great meals on the cheap while infusing traditional recipes with unique twists. At Chinatown's Amoy Street Food Centre, a hotbed of next-gen hawkers, you'll find A Noodle Story (stall 01-39), where young chefs Gwern Khoo and Ben Tham have perfected their version of Singapore-style ramen. It's Japanese ramen meets wanton mee (noodles): pure bliss in a bowl topped with a soy-flavoured hot spring egg. The constant line confirms its popularity, as does the sign warning customers that the stall often sells out before closing time. Other shout-outs go to Lagoon in a Bowl (01-48), where the charred sous-vide salmon 'swims in a lagoon' of naturally dyed blue butterfly pea rice, and Coffee Break (02-78), a humble drink stall run by a trio of siblings who took over the reins from their father – they serve up good old Singaporean kopi (coffee), but with a twist. (Black-sesame lattes and ginger milk tea, anyone?) With luck, these resourceful individuals will ensure that Singapore's food scene continues to evolve and captivate locals and visitors alike.

Amoy Street Food Centre | ARTORN THONGTUKIT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BEST CHINATOWN HAWKER STALLS

A Noodle Story

Piping-hot bowls of silky ramen broth, but with a Singaporean twist. $

Hawker Chan

They won, and then lost, a Michelin star, but this chicken rice is definitely worth lining up for. $

J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff

These golden parcels of curried goodness are a favourite Singaporean snack – chicken is the best. $

BEST HAWKER CENTRES IN CHINATOWN

Chinatown Complex

The hardcore hawker experience: a labyrinth of more than 260 stalls. Come hungry! $

Maxwell Food Centre

One of Chinatown's most accessible hawker centres, Maxwell is a solid spot to savour hawker staples. $

Lau Pa Sat

Magnificent wrought-iron architecture. Evenings, Boon Tat St opposite transforms into the famous Satay St. $

Breakfast of a Nation

LOCAL START TO YOUR DAY

If you want to immerse yourself in the Lion City, start your day with a Singaporean breakfast set. Not quite the standard version of eggs and toast many would know, this ‘breakfast set’ is made up of two barely boiled eggs (yolks runny and whites teetering on translucent), grilled slices of bread filled with pats of salty butter, and a generous spread of sweet, custardy kaya (coconut and egg jam) – all washed down with a cup of strong kopi. To eat, crack the eggs into the bowl, add a dash of dark soy sauce and a good shake of white pepper, mix till just combined, then dip in the kaya toast and enjoy. A great place to experience this beloved Singapore staple is at Ya Kun Kaya Toast: the original shop location on China St is the best. And the Singaporean coffee humour posters deserve a giggle.

MARRIAGES FOR THE DEARLY DEPARTED

Nestled discreetly behind metal gates next to Tanjong Pagar MRT station, little Seng Wong Beo Temple is often overlooked by tourists. The temple is devoted to the Chinese City God, whose divine role encompasses safeguarding the city's prosperity and guiding departed souls to the underworld.

However, Seng Wong Beo holds a unique distinction as the sole temple in Singapore that conducts ghost marriages, a ritualistic practice intended to aid parents in arranging marriages for their departed children in the afterlife. A visit to the temple unveils intriguing customs and beliefs deeply rooted in Chinese folklore and spiritual traditions.

BEST ACCOMMODATION IN CHINATOWN

Parkroyal on Pickering

A striking architectural statement, Parkroyal is set amid hanging gardens laced with gullies and waterfalls. $$$

KēSa House

Contemporary boutique hotel housed in 10 heritage shophouses within foodie enclave Keong Siak. $$

Wink

Both the Mosque St and Upper Cross St outlets of this modern capsule hostel are Chinatown favourites. $

Tea-Drinking Rituals

LEARN THE FINE ART OF TEA

In Singapore the art of tea drinking has evolved to embrace a diverse array of experiences. Traditional tea houses and local kopitiams coexist with trendy bubble-tea shops and upscale tea salons, all catering to various tastes. If you’d like to take your tea tasting to another level, book a tea-appreciation journey at Tea Chapter, a serene teahouse near Maxwell MRT station, Exit 3, where you can dive deep into the intricate art of Chinese tea culture. A selection of teas and beautiful tea sets are available for sale so you can recreate the ritual of tea ceremonies at home.

Natural Stone Textures/shutterstock ©

Heritage-Scene Street Art

OLD-SCHOOL SINGAPORE ARTWORK

Amid Singapore's relentless progress and the transition from old to new, local self-taught artist Yip Yew Chong is keeping a touch of yesteryear alive with his incredibly detailed, 3D Singapore-heritage-scene artworks. Originally a white-collar worker by day and an artist at weekends, YC took the leap in 2018, leaving his finance career behind to dedicate himself fully to his art. Public murals have since been popping up all over the city, with the highest concentration in culturally rich Chinatown. Begin your visual journey with his most impressive mural to date, a 44m masterpiece adorning the Thian Hock Keng Temple's rear wall that tells the story of the area's Hokkien immigrants. From here, it's a short walk to Mohamed Ali Lane, where another YC creation hawks his wares, and then onwards to Temple St and Smith St, where numerous walls have been brought to life. Don't miss the colourful and dramatic Cantonese Opera at the junction of Temple St and South Bridge Rd. Hip ’hood Tiong Bahru also boasts numerous murals. Bird Singing Corner, the most prominent, can be found on Song Poh Lane, but make sure to head up the alley next to it to discover Pasar and Fortune Teller. Many of YC's murals incorporate interactive elements – an empty chair here, a bench spot there – inviting the viewer to become part of the heritage scene while they take pictures. Check Yip's website (yipyc.com) for locations, or just follow the Instagrammers and misty-eyed Singaporean elders.

Thian Hock Keng Temple | N8ALLEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BUZZY FOODIE 'HOODS

Club Street

The city’s bar-scene heartland, where the after-work crowd flock come knockoff time. Fridays are the liveliest.

Amoy & Telok Ayer Streets

A dining hotbed of swanky restaurants, cool cafes, hawker treats and hidden bars.

Keong Saik Road

Diverse and buzzing enclave packed to the brim with unique eats and top-notch bars.

Duxton Hill

Lush, leafy pocket complete with cobblestone walkways where relaxed alfresco drinking and dining reign supreme.

FROM MURAL TALES TO TEMPLE TALES

The rear wall of Thian Hock Keng Temple acts as a canvas for Yip Yew Chong's magnificent 44m mural. Be sure to look inside the temple walls as well, to see an architectural masterpiece of cultural significance.

BEST CHINATOWN COCKTAIL SPOTS

Native

Surprising regional ingredients and clever twists result in unique and innovative tipples.

No Sleep Club

Beginning as a pop-up, No Sleep is a cemented star on Singapore’s bar scene – come join the club.

Sago House

Serves up ever-changing concoctions.

Local-Favourite Shopping Spot

DISCOVER THE NEIGHBOURHOOD'S HEART

Look up and you'll easily spot the green-and-yellow facade of the iconic People's Park Complex: the building's striking brutalist design has loomed over the heart of Chinatown since the 1970s. A six-storey podium of shops and offices plus a 25-storey residential block, the complex was Southeast Asia's first mixed-use building. It was heralded as an architectural marvel of its time, and it's now an integral part of Singapore's skyline. Boasting an eclectic mix of market stalls, shops, eateries and residential apartments, the complex is a hive of activity inside. All the pursuits it plays host to meld together in a dynamic blend of culture, commerce and community. Exploring the complex is akin to embarking on a cultural odyssey, cloaked in the heady scent of Tiger Balm. Wend your way from the market stalls on the ground floor to the cheap, no-frills reflexology booths (just what your tired feet ordered), the traditional Chinese medicine dispensaries, and the treasure trove of shops selling everything from textiles to electronics to traditional Chinese antiques. People's Park is also a neighbourhood hub for cultural events and celebrations, which adds to the complex's continual buzz: this is the perfect spot to get a glimpse of neighbourhood life. Shutterbugs should head up to the complex's rooftop – aka the car park on level six (follow the signs) – as the enormous yellow residential tower is fast becoming one of Singapore's most photographed backdrops. The corner of the car park also offers the perfect vantage point for the city's skyline views.

COOKING UP THE CLASSICS

You've been gorging on Singapore's famous food, so why not learn to make it yourself? Food Playground is a hands-on cooking school that explores Singapore's multicultural make-up and sees you prepare classic dishes such as laksa, nasi lemak (coconut rice) and char kway teow (stir-fried rice noodles with cockles, Chinese sausage and dark sauces). Courses usually run for three hours and include an informative history of the dishes and an introduction to local ingredients. Classes book out early, so make sure to reserve your spot via foodplayground.com.sg.

Scan this QR code to book your course.

BEST FINE DINING IN CHINATOWN

Cloudstreet

An unmissable 2½-hour gastronomic experience. $$$

Olivia Restaurant & Lounge

Be transported to Barcelona with these tantalising dishes inspired by Catalan and Mediterranean cuisines. $$$

Tippling Club

Stylish dining that pushes the boundaries with modern techniques and unexpected flavour pairings. $$$

Little India & Kampong Glam

COLOURFUL ENCLAVES STEEPED IN HISTORY

Little India originally emerged as a settlement for Indian immigrants who arrived during the colonial era. They came seeking work in various industries such as construction, trading and plantation agriculture.

Haji Lane, Kampong Glam | Klanarong Chitmung/shutterstock ©

Over time, the area evolved into a bustling commercial and cultural hub, with Serangoon Rd becoming the main thoroughfare, lined with businesses and restaurants. Notable temples such as Sri Veeramakaliamman and Sri Srinivasa Perumal were established, becoming essential landmarks. The heart of Little India lies in the lively, jasmine-scented lanes between Serangoon Rd and Jalan Besar, stretching from Campbell Lane in the south to Syed Alwi Rd in the north. The best way to experience the district’s intriguing sights, smells and sounds is to explore the lanes on foot. The main attraction is the affordable, authentic Indian food, with shopping and temple hopping close runners-up. It’s best to come with an empty stomach and be prepared for a gastronomic adventure.

A quick 15-minute walk southwest down Ophir Rd, or an even quicker MRT ride (alight at Bugis station), lies eclectic Kampong Glam, an area sometimes referred to as Arab St. The name Kampong Glam comes from the Malay language: kampong means ‘village’ and glam probably refers to the gelam tree that was once abundant in the area and used for boat-making. In the 1800s the area was a Muslim quarter, home to the Sultan of Johore and a community of Arabs, and Javanese, Bugis and Boyanese from what is now Indonesia. It’s an intriguing blend of the Islamic and the new generation, a place of storybook mosques, third-wave cafes and chic boutiques dotted around colourfully painted laneways. Haji Lane is the main hub and is best visited during the late afternoon, when the streets fill with the after-work crowd, the pulse of live music, and bar patrons spilling onto the sidewalks.

Former House of Tan Teng Niah | i viewfinder/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

INDIAN HERITAGE CENTRE

A cultural treasure showcasing the origins and rich heritage of Singapore’s Indian community.

SRI VEERAMAKALIAMMAN TEMPLE

Little India’s most atmospheric Hindu temple that pays homage to the fierce goddess Kali.

SULTAN MOSQUE

The golden-domed hub that holds Kampong Glam together is the stuff of story-book illustrations.

ATLAS BAR

Swanky Art Deco cocktail lounge with a jaw-dropping 12m-high gin wall.

TOP SIGHTS

1  Former House of Tan Teng Niah

2  Gelam Gallery

3  Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle

4  Indian Heritage Centre

5  Kotuwa

6  Malay Heritage Centre

7  Mustafa Centre

8  Parkview Square

9  Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple

10  Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple

11  Sultan Mosque

SIGHTS

12  Hajjah Fatimah Mosque

13  Jalan Besar (shopping)

14  Jalan Besar (drinking)

15  Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple

16  Petain Road Terraces

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

17  Amrita Ayurveda & Yoga

18  Ayush Ayurvedic

EATING

19  Char

20  Komala Vilas

21  Lagnaa Barefoot Dining

22  Lunar Rabbit Boulangerie

23  Meatsmith Little India

24  Sungei Road Laksa

25  Swee Choon Tim Sum

26  Two Bakers

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

27   Antea Social

28  Asylum Coffeehouse

29  Brawn & Brains Coffee

30  Chye Seng Huat Hardware

31  Druggists

32  Habitat Coffee

33  Whiskey Library & Jazz Club

SHOPPING

34  Conformity

35   Loop Garms

36  Stakeout

37  Tekka Centre

38  Thandapani Co

TOP TIP

Little India and Kampong Glam are at their bustling best in the late afternoon or early evening. On Sunday the streets of Little India are heaving, as this is the only day off for many workers, particularly Indian labourers.

I LIVE HERE: LOCAL TIPS

Anil Gawade, the general manager at Body Fit Training Farrer Park, shares his favourite spots in this busy neighbourhood.

Wan Yang Foot Reflexology

The best place to unwind and get rid of any aches and pains. Off-peak deals just make this place more relaxing.

Coba Kedai Kopi

This nasi padang (rice with curries and accompaniments) vendor has a huge selection of dishes, so get in quick as they often run out. Remember the sambal belacan (Malaysian-style chilli paste)!

Bakehaus

Amazing soft loaves perfect for your daily carb craving. To croissant or not to croissant would never be an issue here.

Whiskey Library

With over 1000 whiskies on offer, this place is perfect for a nightcap.

Malay Heritage Centre

GRAND SEAT OF ROYALTY

The area of Kampong Glam is the historic seat of Malay royalty, resident here before the arrival of Stamford Raffles. The istana (palace) on this site was built for the last sultan of Singapore, Ali Iskandar Shah, between 1836 and 1843. Its buildings were converted into a museum in 2015 (malayheritage.gov.sg), and its galleries explore Malay-Singaporean culture and history, chronicling the early migration of traders to Kampong Glam and the evolution of Malay-Singaporean cinema, theatre, music and publishing. Closed for a revamp, it's slated to reopen in 2025.

Malay Heritage Centre | GNOHZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sultan Mosque

KAMPONG GLAM'S GOLDEN-DOMED HUB

Singapore's grandest mosque, seemingly pulled from an Arabian Nights storybook, is nothing short of enchanting. Founded in 1824 with the assistance of Raffles and the East India Company after Raffles' treaty with the sultan of Singapore allowed the Malay leader to retain sovereignty over the area, it showcases Indo-Saracenic style and boasts a majestic golden dome. In 1928 the original mosque was replaced by the present building, designed by an Irish architect. Non-Muslims are kindly requested to refrain from entering the prayer hall, and all visitors are expected to dress suitably (cloaks are available at the entrance).

Sultan Mosque | Belikova Oksana/shutterstock ©

Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple

BEST-OF-LUCK TEMPLE

Amid the lively sounds of chien tung (Chinese fortune sticks) lies one of Singapore's most bustling temples. Devoted to the revered goddess of mercy, Kuan Yin (Guan Yin), it's a cherished destination for those seeking good fortune. The temple's colourful facade exemplifies the craftsmanship popular in the late 19th century, with grand pagoda rooftops and ornate carvings showcasing a rich array of motifs, including dragons, phoenixes and water lilies. The entrance buzzes with flower vendors, adding to the joyous atmosphere. Up the street, believers rub the belly of a majestic bronze Buddha Maitreya, hoping for an extra dose of luck. In a very Singaporean case of religious pragmatism, worshippers also offer prayers at the polychromatic Hindu Sri Krishnan Temple next door.

TOP SIGHTS

1  Gelam Gallery

2  Malay Heritage Centre

3  Parkview Square

4  Sultan Mosque

EATING

5  Alaturka

6  Cicheti

7  Coconut Club

8  Piedra Negra

9  Warong Nasi Pariaman

10  Zam Zam

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

11  Atlas

12  Bar Stories

13  Blu Jaz Café

SHOPPING

14  Arab Street

15  Dilip Textiles

16  Haji Lane

17  Sifr Aromatics

Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple

TOWERING MULTICOLOURED TEMPLE

Dating from 1855, this temple is dedicated to Vishnu, the Hindu god who restores the balance between good and evil. In 1966 a 20m-tall gopuram (tower) – costing S$300,000 – was added, enhancing its grandeur. Inside are statues of Vishnu, Lakshmi and Andal, and Vishnu's bird-mount, Garuda. The temple holds great significance during the annual Thaipusam festival, as it is the starting point for a colourful, wince-inducing street parade: to show their unwavering faith and devotion, many participants pierce their bodies with hooks and skewers.

Mustafa Centre

BEHEMOTH MALL WITH BARGAINS GALORE

Long revered as Singapore's epicentre of bargain shopping, the labyrinthine Mustafa Centre stocks it all. From gold jewellery to electronics, fabrics to fashion, luggage to beauty products, its six levels, basements included, are packed to the brim. There are also money-changers and a large supermarket with a great range of Indian and international foodstuffs. The whole experience can be somewhat overwhelming, and if you don't like crowds, skip the post-work peak hour and don't even think about visiting on a Sunday. Otherwise, set aside a few hours and accept that you'll most likely get lost in the endless rows of aisles. Once you're done, head outside to the Mustafa Cafe on Syed Alwi Rd for a warming cup of masala tea.

Kotuwa

CULINARY JOURNEY TO COLOMBO

Nestled within the stunning 1920s Wanderlust hotel, Kotuwa is a gastronomic gem pioneered by Michelin-starred chef Rishi Naleendra (his Chinatown outpost Cloudstreet currently holds two shiny stars). Here you'll embark on a journey to Chef Naleendra's homeland, Sri Lanka, and be treated to a fusion of flavours and textures, expertly crafted using the finest ingredients. Start with the 'short eats' menu before moving on to the moreish street-food-inspired rotis and fragrant curries. Bypass the rice and instead order the hoppers, go for the egg version, and load up on the house-made sambols and preserves. The exotic cocktail menu should not be missed.

Indian Heritage Centre

LITTLE INDIA’S ORIGINS

Discover the origins and rich heritage of Singapore's Indian community at this cutting-edge museum (indianheritage.gov.sg), which boasts a remarkable S$12-million investment. The museum is thoughtfully divided into five captivating themes, each offering a unique perspective on Indian culture and its profound influence in Singapore. As you explore the extensive collection of historical artefacts, maps, archival footage, and multimedia displays, you can delve into the early interactions between South Asia and Southeast Asia, learn about Indian cultural traditions, and appreciate the invaluable contributions of Indian Singaporeans to the nation's development. One of the museum's standout attractions is a remarkable 19th-century Chettinad doorway, adorned with an astonishing 5000 intricate carvings – a glimpse of the exquisite craftsmanship of the past. The museum's architecture draws inspiration from the baoli (Indian stepped well), with its main facade mirroring the pattern of the flights of steps in the well that lead down to the water table. Aside from its exhibition galleries, the centre also houses a visitor centre, a rooftop garden and activity spaces. As the sun sets, the translucent facade of the building undergoes a magical transformation, showcasing the mesmerising and vibrant mural that lies behind it, resembling a magnificent tapestry.

Sculpture of Hindu god, Aravan, Indian Heritage Centre | PACCEKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

AROMATIC SPICE HAVEN

Stroll down to Dunlop St, situated just behind the Indian Heritage Centre, and seek out the legendary spice store Thandapani Co.

Not much has changed here since the shop opened in the 1960s; it's still adorned with hessian bags packed with chillies, fennel seeds and other Indian culinary staples.

It's considered one of the best spice vendors in the city: you'll be rubbing shoulders with home cooks and professional chefs alike, all stocking up on ingredients you won't find elsewhere.

Former House of Tan Teng Niah

EYE-POPPING CHINESE VILLA

Near Tekka Market stands a rainbow-coloured two-storey Chinese bungalow, the former residence of businessman Tan Teng Niah. The house harks back to a bygone era when Chinese industries were a fixture of this neighbourhood. It's believed to be the sole surviving building of its kind in the area – the rest were demolished to make way for more modern developments. Tan Teng Niah operated numerous local businesses, including confectionary factories and a rubber smoke house. The building was restored and conserved in the 1980s and designated for commercial use. Today its psychedelic facades are a favourite subject for photographers and Instagrammers.

Former House of Tan Teng Niah | BULE SKY STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple

ATMOSPHERIC HINDU TEMPLE

Little India's most colourful, visually striking temple is dedicated to the ferocious goddess Kali. Adorned with a garland of skulls, she is depicted tearing apart her victims while also engaging in serene family moments with her sons Ganesh and Murugan. The bloodthirsty consort of Shiva has long been revered in Bengal, the birthplace of the labourers who constructed the building in 1881. Its most notable feature, the entrance gopuram (tower) with intricate carvings of Hindu deities, was added in the 1980s. The temple draws crowds at all hours but is most evocative during the daily puja (prayer) sessions. Visitors are welcome inside the temple during designated hours, and upon entering (shoes are to be left at the door) are enveloped in the aroma of incense, the rhythmic melodies of temple music and the chants of prayers. Photography is allowed, but remain aware that this is an active site of worship. Throughout the year the temple hosts various religious ceremonies, festivals and cultural events, drawing crowds from all walks of life.

Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple | Adrian Baker/shutterstock ©

Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle

STARRED HAWKER NOODLE BOWLS

Locals have attempted to keep this second-generation hawker stall – famous for Teochew-style bak chor mee (minced pork noodles) – secret, but as it's the only hawker in Singapore with a shiny Michelin star (bestowed in 2016), that's practically impossible. Bowls come in three sizes, but all are filled with springy noodles, tender pork and liver slices, crispy flat fish, and a punch-packing vinegary chilli sauce. It's a 10-minute walk from Lavender MRT station, and the line can get long, but it's well worth a visit.

Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle | ROSLAN RAHMAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Gelam Gallery

BACK-ALLEY STREET ART

A hub of art and culture, Kampong Glam teems with emerging designer boutiques, vivid street art and trendy coffee shops. But it's not just the prominent areas that steal the limelight here. Recently, the back alleys either side of pedestrianised Bussorah St have come to life with the opening of Gelam Gallery, Singapore's first permanent outdoor art space. Rear walls have been transformed into canvases and now boast artworks created by more than 30 artists. This artistic ensemble features the work of newly graduated students from esteemed institutions such as NAFA and LASALLE College of the Arts as well as pieces by experienced local and international artists. Come early if you want to take pictures, as delivery vehicles park along the roadways.

Parkview Square

ART DECO EXTRAVAGANZA

Resembling a structure plucked from the Batman series, this magnificent tower is known locally as the Gotham City Building. Its Art Deco exterior is inspired by the Chanin Building in New York City, and its open-air plaza has an array of statues and sculptures – most notably a majestic golden crane poised to take flight, which is supposed to bring wealth to the building. The jaw-dropping architecture continues within: the grand 15m-high lobby is adorned with marble floors, gilded brass and intricate frescoes, and its upscale Atlas bar has a gin collection said to be the world’s largest.

Golden crane sculpture, Parkview Square | Erwin Dimal/shutterstock ©

MORE IN LITTLE INDIA & KAMPONG GLAM

Art Deco Decadence at Atlas

THE GOLDEN AGE OF COCKTAILS

Transporting you back to 1920s Manhattan, Atlas cocktail lounge – in the cavernous lobby of the Parkview Square hotel – is an Art Deco–inspired extravaganza featuring opulent bronze work, ornate frescoes and dimly lit lounge seating. However, the true centrepiece is the imposing 12m gin tower, which will make your eyes pop. Gin devotees should book a Gin Tower Experience (by reservation, starting at $54 per guest), which entails an exclusive tour of the tower accompanied by gin tastings. The tower housed more than 1300 gins on the last count, including some London dries from as far back as 1910 and contemporary craft gins from around the world.

Tucked beneath this mega gin inventory is the champagne room, home to some of the world's most expensive bubbles. If you're so inclined, you can drop quite a few thousand dollars in a blink of an eye. Still, even the most cashed-up patrons might catch their breath at the Shipwreck Champagne. Sunk to a depth of 64m for 82 years, 3000 perfectly preserved bottles of 1907 Heidsieck & Co Monopole 'Goût Américain' (served on the ill-fated Titanic) were recovered in 1998. A limited few reside within the Atlas collection, and to pop one will set you back S$190,700, plus service and tax. If you don't want to mortgage your house for a night out, the drinks menu is filled with curated cocktails, fine wines and some mean martinis.

Reservations are essential to secure an evening spot, but if you arrive before 5pm you should still be able to snag a table. European Golden Age–inspired bites are served throughout the day and well into the night. Afternoon tea (from 3pm; 24 hours' notice required) is also worth stopping in for. Dress to impress: no shorts or slippers after 5pm.

Atlas Cocktail Lounge | DOMONABIKESINGAPORE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

BEST BARS TO ENJOY A TIPPLE

Bar Stories

A menu-free zone; just mention your likes and dislikes, and boom! – your perfect cocktail.

Blu Jaz Café

Chilled-out local favourite that pumps with regular live gigs, jam sessions and comedy nights.

Druggists

Beer hounds head to this old-school Chinese medicine hall for its revolving lineup of brews.

Whisky Library & Jazz Club

An opulent haven for whisky aficionados, offering more than 1000 bottles from near and far.

BEST HOTELS IN LITTLE INDIA & KAMPONG GLAM

One Farrer

Three hotels within one property deliver modern accommodation to suit all travel requirements. $$

Wanderlust

Converted 1920s schoolhouse in Little India with sharp, modern rooms and lofts, most with kitchens. $$

Vagabond Club

With touches of Parisian charm, this inspired hotel is swathed in red velvet and art. $$$

Old & New Kampong Glam

TRADITIONAL MUSLIM QUARTER REINVENTED

Just a short distance from Singapore’s gleaming Central Business District and grand colonial buildings you’ll find the buzzing area of Kampong Glam, where the juxtaposition of old and new creates a lively tapestry of colours. Start your adventure on Haji Lane, a narrow street lined with pastel-hued shophouses that host an eclectic mix of quirky boutiques, vintage shops, hole-in-the-wall craft-beer bars and plenty of high-impact street art. Although establishments seem to change rapidly – likely due to sky-high rents – you’ll be relieved to find that generic chain stores have not taken over the area. Instead, upcoming independent designers and charming cafes clamour for a foothold, ensuring there’s always something new to check out.

One block over, Arab Street awaits, offering stores that showcase more traditional wares, including fabrics, carpets and scarves. Make sure to visit Dilip Textiles, a one-stop shop for vibrant block-printed table linens at affordable prices. Another must-visit is Sifr Aromatics, a perfume emporium specialising in custom blends – here you can immerse yourself in a treasure trove of olfactory delights.

While you're in the area, don’t miss marvelling at the fairy-tale Sultan Mosque and taking a leisurely stroll through the eye-catching murals at Gelam Gallery. When hunger pangs remind you it's time for a meal break, you’ll find plenty of places to grab a bite (note that some restaurants do not serve alcohol). As the sun sets, the street tables at Mexican powerhouse Piedra Negra are highly sought after.

SINGAPORE'S LEANING TOWER

If you venture away from the city along Beach Rd you’ll come across Hajjah Fatimah Mosque, erected in 1846.

The historic place of worship is one of the few in Singapore to be named after a female figure. It pays homage to Hajjah Fatimah, a Melaka-born philanthropist whose residence is believed to have stood on the site.

Distinguished by its peculiar architecture, the mosque combines Middle Eastern and British styles; its most notable features include a bulbous dome and a Moorish wooden balcony alongside European-style pilasters and a church-style minaret.

The minaret’s distinctive lean, approximately six degrees from the centre, has seen the mosque dubbed Singapore’s Leaning Tower.

BEST HOSTELS FOR YOUR BUCK

Dream Chaser

Boutique capsule hotel in Kampong Glam offering jewel-coloured shared pods and private rooms. $

Adamson Lodge

Simple, clean dormitory-style accommodation within a few minutes' walk of Rochor MRT station. $

Dream Lodge

Spick and span, with comfy beds in a pod formation and super-helpful staff. $

Explore Little India's Main Market

EAT, SHOP…EAT SOME MORE

Located right next to Little India MRT station, the Tekka Centre is often hailed as the beating heart of Little India – and boy oh boy, does it get pumping! The multiuse building encompasses a wet market, a food centre and a range of shops – it’s loud, busy and a riot of colour. Begin your exploration in the wet market, Singapore’s most extensive. Here stalls are laden with tropical fruit, Asian vegetables, aromatic herbs and a galaxy of spices. Keep an eye out for Lim’s Coconuts & Sundry Products, where you can watch a mesmerising old-school grating machine churn out fluffy white coconut pulp. The wet market also offers a wide selection of meats and seafood, often presented in ‘original condition’ – that means you should expect to witness lots of cutting, chopping and slicing. If that isn’t your cup of tea, it's best to navigate this area with caution. It’s advisable to wear closed and sturdy footwear, as the floor can be wet and slippery.

Once you’ve feasted your eyes and maybe made a few purchases, head to the hawker area to fill up on some delicious Indian fare. Join the queue for real-deal biryani, paper-thin dosa (lentil-flour pancakes), fluffy roti prata (dough-flour pancakes) and delectable murtabak (stuffed savoury pancakes). Wash it all down with some teh tarik (pulled tea). If you venture up one floor, you’ll encounter a rainbow-coloured sea of Indian sari and textile stores, not to mention a small battalion of skilled tailors. This is probably the most budget-friendly place to pick up an Indian outfit. While prices are marked, some well-mannered bargaining is always worth a try.

Flower garlands, Little India | CherylRamalho/shutterstock ©

DITCH THE CUTLERY

Eating with your fingers is customary in India, and you’ll see this regularly in Singapore's Indian restaurants and the Tekka Centre – in fact, some stalls don’t have cutlery.

To try it yourself, start by washing your hands, and then, if your meal comes with bread, tear off small pieces and fold small bites into them before popping the little parcel into your mouth. Be sure to only use your right hand for eating, as the left is traditionally for hygiene purposes.

Meals with rice are trickier – combine a little rice with your accompanying dish to form a small ball, then lift it to your mouth and push it in with your thumb. It may take some practice, but it’s a messily enjoyable experience.

BEST RESTAURANTS IN KAMPONG GLAM

Coconut Club

Made famous by its fragrant nasi lemak (it says the secret is in the coconuts). $$

Cicheti

Italian-cuisine enthusiasts flock here for the silky handmade pastas and rustic wood-fired pizzas. $$$

Alaturka

Generous sharing plates of Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine; don't miss the moreish lavas bread. $$

Discover Singapore's New Hip 'Hood

UP-AND-COMING JALAN BESAR

Jalan Besar means ‘big or wide road’ in Malay and was once known for boxing matches and hardware shops. These days, it's a blend of charming heritage architecture, artisan cafes and stores.

Escape the chaos of Orchard Rd and mundane shopping malls, and venture into the world of thrift at Loop Garms. This carefully curated store houses a collection of pre-2000 sportswear and fun pop-culture apparel. Sister store Stakeout, where an enormous selection of apparel awaits your thrifting adventures, is in the same building. Plus, the more you buy, the cheaper the items become! For those aiming to make a statement, head to Conformity, a streetwear and sneaker treasure trove that aims to go ‘against conformity’ – the limited-edition sneakers are well worth a look-see.

This neighbourhood has several Peranakan beauties, but none can rival the exceptional row of lavishly adorned double-storey terraces along Petain Road. These shophouses, dating back to the 1920s, showcase an awe-inspiring explosion of colour, from the floral-motif ceramic wall tiles to the pillar bas-reliefs adorned with flowers, birds and trees. The hyper-ornate decoration represents the distinctive characteristics of the late shophouse style.

Chye Seng Huat Hardware kickstarted the coffee revolution in this area, and even after 10 years it's still going strong – as are its roasts. Now, several new establishments dot the neighbourhood, including Asylum Coffeehouse, Brawn & Brains Coffee and Habitat Coffee, all brewing a worthy caffeine hit. If coffee is not your beverage of choice, specialty teahouse Antea Social will gladly serve you a pot from its exquisite selection.

Traditional shophouses, Jalan Besar | Justin Adam Lee/shutterstock ©

BEST CHEAP HERITAGE EATS

Sungei Road Laksa

Join the line for a fragrant bowl of charcoal-cooked laksa – your taste buds will thank you. $

Swee Choon Tim Sum

Cheap and cheerful dim-sum spot; an institution among late-night revellers because it's open till the wee hours. $

Zam Zam

Serves must-eat murtabak (a huge pancake filled with mutton, chicken, beef, venison or even sardines). $

Warong Nasi Pariaman

No-frills nasi padang (rice with curries) stall. Point to what looks good; the rendang beef is a top choice. $

VISIT THE PERANAKAN MUSEUM

If the ornate Petain Rd shophouses have piqued your interest in Peranakan history, be sure to visit the Peranakan Museum, which offers a deep dive into the rich and colourful backstory of this Singaporean ethnic community, mainly descended from Chinese migrants who married Malay locals.

BEST WALKING TOURS

Wok'n'Stroll

Fill your eyes and your belly while discovering the neighbourhood on the Street Art and Food tour.

Jane's SG Tours

Discover history, heritage and architecture on the Saris, Sultans & Shophouses tour.

Oh Stories

Dive into history through a tale on this immersive self-guided tour around Jalan Besar.

Ancient Indian Medicine

REVIVE YOURSELF WITH AYURVEDA

If the frenetic pace of Little India has left you feeling frazzled, surrender yourself to the tranquil rejuvenation of Ayurveda, the Indian system of medicine based on ancient writings that rely on a natural and holistic approach to physical and mental health. Experience the mesmerising wonders of Abhyangam, a renowned treatment where warm medicated oils are massaged into your body with long, calming strokes, soothing you from head to toe. For a unique and deeply relaxing encounter, indulge in Shirodhara, where warm oil is rhythmically poured onto your forehead (the third eye), inducing a meditative-like state and revitalising your mind and body. If you need to get the blood pumping, the invigorating Elakizhi might be for you. This treatment involves warming herbal poultices (herbal bags) in medicated oils and using them to massage your entire body, stimulating circulation and awakening your senses – it's pure bliss. A herbal steam bath, where you sit in a large wooden box up to your neck, is recommended as an accompaniment to most treatments to help detoxify and purify the body. There are numerous centres scattered throughout the area; top picks are Amrita Ayurveda & Yoga and Ayush Ayurvedic to start you on your Ayurvedic journey.

POPULAR RESTAURANTS IN LITTLE INDIA

Meatsmith Little India

American barbecue joint where meats are slathered in Indian spices and rubs and then smoked, grilled or charred to perfection. $$

Komala Vilas

Wallet-friendly, authentic South Indian vegetarian restaurant serving wafer-thin dosa (lentil-flour pancakes). $

Lagnaa Barefoot Dining

Slip off your shoes, choose your spice level (above 3 is brave) and be treated to homestyle Indian cooking. $$

Kotuwa

Culinary delights inspired by the chef's Sri Lankan heritage, with zesty cocktails to match. $$

BEST PLACES TO EAT IN JALAN BESAR

Lunar Rabbit Boulangerie

Out-of-this-world artisanal croissants and brioches. Make a beeline. $

Char

Known for melt-in-your-mouth Cantonese roast meats; the mala char siew is a crowd favourite. $$

Two Bakers

Contemporary bakery-cafe with irresistible sweet treats crafted with Paris' Cordon Bleu precision. $$

ORCHARD ROAD

WORLD-FAMOUS RETAIL AND ENTERTAINMENT STRIP

Now internationally famous, Orchard Rd was once a dusty, tree-flanked track leading to the spice plantations and orchards that dominated the area back in the 1830s. Nearly a century would pass before the road began its transformation into the showcase for the material delights of capitalism that it is today.

Orchard Road | Sorbis/shutterstock ©

One of the most significant milestones in the road’s evolution occurred in 1958 when the precinct’s very first department store, CK Tang, opened. The original building design was based on the Imperial Palace in Beijing. When the store was rebuilt in 1982, the distinctive green-tiled roof and red colonnades were incorporated into the new plaza, along with a 33-storey pagoda-like tower, which remains a retail stalwart on the shopping strip. As Singapore gained independence in 1965 and experienced rapid economic growth, the area boomed with commercial and retail businesses clamouring for every inch of street-frontage space. Throughout the years, Orchard Rd has continued to reinvent itself. Old malls are torn down to make way for newer, bigger, shinier ones, and the sidewalks are upgraded to provide the perfect promenade to strut down, shopping bags in tow. These days the strip is home to every brand imaginable, from emerging local designers to global high-street heavyweights and coveted European couture. It’s the epitome of modern consumerism, but Orchard Rd also possesses a few sights of cultural interest, including Emerald Hill Rd, which is jammed with stunning heritage shophouses, and the Istana – house of the country’s president – and its informative museum. But it can’t really be denied that it’s all about the retail therapy here: you can shop until you drop, pick yourself up, and go on to shop some more. The gods of retail are here waiting for you to pay your respects.

Ngee Ann City Shopping Centre | deeepblue/Getty imagesk ©

DON’T MISS

EMERALD HILL ROAD

A quiet enclave filled with stunning Peranakan architecture and happy-hour bar specials.

DESIGN ORCHARD

All of Singapore’s best design talent under one roof.

ISTANA HERITAGE GALLERY

Peek behind the gates of the Istana (the president’s home) at this compact but informative museum.

ION ORCHARD MALL

If you came to Singapore to shop, this mall (with sky-high viewing deck) is a great place to start.

TOP SIGHTS

1  BookXcess

2  BTV Design Post

3  Cathay Building

4  Design Orchard

5  Emerald Hill Road

6  Goodwood Park Hotel

7  ION Orchard Mall

see 7  Ion Sky

8  Istana Heritage Gallery

9  Les Amis

10  Lucky Plaza

11  Thai Embassy

12  The Istana

13  The Other Room

SIGHTS

14  Celebrations, Endearment, Courtship, Development, Friendship and Relaxation

15  Dragon-Riding Bodhisattva

16  Eulogy to Singapore

17  Harmony

18  Nutmeg & Mace

19  Qin Shu Bao

20  Reclining Woman

21  Sense Surround

22  Urban People

23  Wei Chi Jing De

ACTIVITIES

24  Nautuland

25  Remède Spa

EATING

26  Haidilao Hot Pot

27  Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck

see 7  ION Orchard Food Opera

28  Newton Food Centre

29  Sushiro

see 40  Takashimaya Food Village

30  Wisma Atria Food Republic

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

31  Alchemist The Heeren

32  Atico Lounge & Bar

33  Manhattan

34  No 5

35  Que Pasa

36  Wild Honey

SHOPPING

37  313@Somerset

38  Beyond the Vines Design Studio

see 41  Escentials

39  Far East Plaza

see 7  In Good Company

40  Ngee Ann City

41  Orchard Central

42  Paragon

TOP TIP

Singaporeans treat shopping as a national sport, and the Orchard Rd malls can get incredibly crowded. If that doesn’t sound like your cup of tea, head in as the centres open (usually around 10am) and enjoy a serene hour or so of browsing sans the hordes.

I LIVE HERE: ORCHARD ROAD FOR INSIDERS

Daphne Tan, founder of local brand Candles of Light, gives us the lowdown on her favourite spots along Orchard Rd. candlesoflight.com

In Good Company

A stalwart in Singaporean fashion adored for its well-crafted staples in beautiful fabrics. The ION store has an outlet of local cafe Plain Vanilla, perfect for a cuppa and delicious treats.

Escentials

Retails the widest variety of cult perfume brands on the island. Be sure to sample DS & Durga and Editions De Parfums Frédéric Malle.

Violet Oon

Oon is the doyenne of Singaporean cuisine. Those in the know flock to the ION branch for its signature afternoon-tea set, featuring such Mod-Sin delights as scones with calamansi marmalade.

The Istana

PALACE OF THE NATION

Official residence and workplace of Singapore's president, this magnificent neoclassical landmark is set on over 40 hectares of lush, manicured grounds (including a nine-hole golf course!). Known as the Istana – istana is the Malay word for palace – the grand whitewashed building was initially constructed by the British between 1867 and 1869 and served as Government House.

It was renamed Istana Negara Singapura (Palace of the State of Singapore) when the Lion City achieved internal self-government in 1959. The building's name was shortened to the Istana on 9 August 1965, when Singapore separated from the Federation of Malaysia to become an independent sovereign nation. This date is celebrated annually as the National Day of Singapore.

Most visitors to the island nation will only see the heavily guarded main gates fronting Orchard Rd, but five times a year these are flung open and the public is welcome to peek inside. Open-house days are set to coincide with public holidays, but check the official website (istana.gov.sg) to confirm before you set off.

The Istana | HIT1912/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Istana Heritage Gallery

BEHIND THE ISTANA GATES

If your visit to Singapore doesn't coincide with one of the five days per year the Istana opens to the public, you can peek behind its formidable gates at this informative museum.

Discover the building's history, peruse the guest book, marvel at opulent state gifts, learn about the ceremonies held within its walls and even sit for a picture-perfect moment in front of a life-size backdrop of the East Drawing Room. Look out for the replica Mandor (supervisor in Malay) statue, who watches over guests entering the Istana. Outside, Istana Park often bursts with floral displays celebrating important events throughout the year.

BookXcess

BOOK-LOVERS' HIDDEN HAVEN

If you head into the OCBC bank in Wisma Atria to change money, you’ll be in for a surprise: along with standard banking services, this branch houses a hidden literary oasis. Bookworms will love BookXcess’s calming minimalistic interiors, where you can while away hours searching for your next gripping read. The adjacent art gallery and lifestyle retail store, stocking mainly locally made finds, offer even more inducements to linger. Oh, and don’t worry if you get hungry – there’s a cafe hidden behind the shelves as well.

BookXcess | TANG YAN SONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ION Orchard Mall

FUTURISTIC ARCHITECTURAL SHOPPING WONDER

High-end fashionistas love nothing more than a day of retail escapism at ION Orchard, Singapore’s sleekest, sharpest mega-mall. Rising directly above Orchard MRT station, futuristic ION is the cream of Orchard Rd malls. Basement floors focus on mere-mortal high-street labels, while upper-floor tenants read like an issue of Vogue. Dining options range from food-court bites to posher nosh, including a tea salon by Singapore’s high-end tea purveyor TWG – perfect for when your credit card needs a little rest. The attached 56-storey tower offers a top-floor viewing gallery, ION Sky.

ION Orchard Mall | Chatchawat Prasertsom/shutterstock ©

Beyond the Vines Design Studio

THE EPITOME OF SG COOL

Beginning in 2015 as a stylish local boutique offering luxurious and functional womenswear basics, Beyond the Vines has morphed into a comprehensive multidisciplinary design studio offering womenswear, menswear, bags and lifestyle
products. Led by husband-and-wife power duo Daniel Chew and Rebecca Ting, the brand has even created its homegrown version of an ‘It’ bag: the Dumpling, a super-lightweight, reversible, water-resistant nylon carrier with a distinctive ruched closure. It's so cool Pokémon has done a
collab edition. The largest of the brand's five outlets is the sprawling new studio in Ngee Ann City, but if you’re in the area, be sure to pop into the BTV Design Post at ION Orchard Basement 3 – it’s a super-fun space conceptualised around a post office.

The Goodwood Park Hotel

HERITAGE DAME ON THE HILL

The Goodwood Park Hotel, dating from 1900 and modelled after a Rhine castle, originally served as the headquarters for the Teutonia Club. This elite social club catered to Singapore's German community until 1914, when the government confiscated the building as 'enemy property'.

In 1918 the building was auctioned off and renamed Club Goodwood Hall. It went on to transform again in 1929, becoming the Goodwood Park Hotel and swiftly gaining recognition as one of Asia's finest places to stay.

During WWII the hotel accommodated the Japanese high command, some of whom returned at the war's end to be tried for war crimes in a tent erected in the hotel grounds.

By 1947, the Goodwood, now boasting Singapore's first hotel swimming pool, resumed operations; a S$2.5-million renovation program had restored its former splendour by the early 1960s. Ongoing enhancements in the 1970s and subsequent updates, including a minor refurb in 2020, have ensured that the hotel stands today as a testament to its illustrious past.

The Goodwood Park Hotel | DR DAVID SING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Design Orchard

NURTURING SINGAPOREAN TALENT

Celebrating Singaporean craftsmanship and design innovation in a building conceptualised by renowned homegrown firm WOHA, Design Orchard is a world-class platform for all things local. The Singapore Fashion Council operates the 1st floor and brings together 100 brands ranging from beauty products to fashion to home furnishings – this is a great spot to pick up a souvenir of your time in the Lion City. Budding designers populate the 2nd floor’s incubation spaces, studios and meeting areas intended to nurture the next generation of Singapore's retail stars. At sunset, head to the roof and watch the shopping and work crowds hot-foot it below.

Design Orchard | SORBIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Emerald Hill Road

A ROW OF SHOPHOUSE BEAUTIES

Like most of the surrounding area, Emerald Hill was filled with spice plantations and orchards before it was carved up into small parcels of land in the early 1900s and sold to aspiring home builders. The area was soon filled with terraces and shophouses, and the neighbourhood became an enclave for wealthy local Peranakan and Chinese merchants and their families. Many of their homes still line the road today, and you can appreciate some exquisite architectural details as you meander along. Several houses are beautifully accentuated by the delightful Chinese baroque influences evident in their facades, wall embellishments and ceramic floor tiles. Special mentions go to No 56 (one of the oldest buildings here, constructed in 1902), Nos 39 to 45 (extensive frontages and a grand Chinese-style entrance gate) and Nos 120 to 130 (Art Deco features dating from around 1925).

Keep your eyes peeled for little metal signs along the street that provide snippets of local history. In 1989 Emerald Hill was gazetted as a conservation area to preserve the neighbourhood's historic architecture, and since then many of the buildings have been restored. Unsurprisingly, due to its location on Orchard Rd's doorstep, it's become an area of affluent living, with sale prices for the shophouse beauties reaching over S$10 million. From the roadside, though, the area remains seemingly untouched by the towering buildings surrounding it. Tranquil and frangipani-scented Emerald Hill Rd is a delightful reminder of historical Singapore.

Emerald Hill | Andrea Pistolesi/Getty Images ©

DRINKS ON THE HILL

At the Orchard Rd end of the hill, popular bars have taken up residence in century-old shophouses and offer a refreshing antidote to the nearby megamalls.

Popular with the after-work crowd thanks to generous happy hours, they're the perfect alfresco spot to kick back after a hard day’s shopping. Local favourites include No 5, where stiff lychee martinis rule, and classy wine bar Que Pasa, with its Iberian vibe, moreish tapas and extensive wine list.

The Other Room

SECRET HOTEL-LOBBY COCKTAIL BAR

Discovering this drinking house, tucked away behind a door in the Singapore Marriott lobby, can be a delightful challenge. Seek assistance from the concierge if you need to, and they'll discreetly guide you to ring the doorbell for entry. The focus here is on meticulously crafted libations – the American oak-barrel-aged spirits in different finishings are where to start. Bar bites are substantial; order the Reuben sandwich if you're feeling peckish. Night owls will rejoice at the late closing time by Singaporean standards.

The Other Room | Kate Hockenhull/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Thai Embassy

ORCHARD ROAD'S FINAL BUILDING BLOCK

Visitors often wonder why the Thai embassy occupies such a large and prominent space amid Orchard Rd's staggeringly expensive real estate.

The story goes that back in the 1990s the Thai government was offered $139 million for the embassy's 17,500-sq-metre plot – but the offer was declined because selling the land would be disrespectful to the memory of the revered King Chulalongkorn (Rama V; 1853–1910), who reportedly picked the land up for a mere $9000 in the 1890s. And so the embassy remains to this day, newly renovated and drooled over by developers who yearn for its coveted location.

Thai Embassy | SERGIO DELLE VEDOVE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Lucky Plaza

CHEAP AND CHEERFUL BARGAINS

Shoehorned between newer and glossier malls, Lucky Plaza can look a little out of place on Singapore’s glitziest shopping strip. But it might offer a welcome contrast to its neighbours. Inside you’ll find plenty of budget-friendly shops – a rarity in this stretch of town – selling everything from souvenirs to luggage, cosmetics and home goods. There’s also a plethora of jewellery and electronics stores with goods of varying quality. Thrift enthusiasts should head to level 6, known across the island as the ultimate place to nab a second-hand clothing bargain. During the week the plaza is relatively quiet, but come Sunday the walkways are absolutely heaving with overseas foreign workers (OFWs), who come here to socialise and wire money back to their families.

Cathay Building

HISTORICAL ART DECO LANDMARK

The Art Deco Cathay Building was opened in 1939, and when its 16-storey central tower was completed two years later, it became Singapore's first skyscraper.

The original building housed an opulent 1321-seat cinema and was the first air-conditioned public space on the island.

Now, as the rest of the building has undergone redevelopment, only the original facade remains, but the iconic vertical signage still proudly displays the building's name. The edifice was pivotal in wartime communications, first for the British and then for the Japanese.

After the fall of Singapore, the Japanese military used the area outside the Cathay to display the heads of looters and others with whom it was displeased as a warning to all. In 2006 the building became – you guessed it – a shopping mall, but its ties to the silver screen remain intact in the form of the pocket-sized Cathay Gallery, a museum dedicated to Singapore’s cinematic history.

At the time of research, the building and gallery were undergoing another revitalisation in anticipation of a dazzling new era set to begin in late 2024.

Cathay Building | MYSTIC STOCK PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DELECTABLE PARISIAN HAUTE CUISINE

Tucked out of the way on the rear side of the Shaw Centre, fine-dining heavyweight Les Amis is a favourite with well-heeled connoisseurs seeking perfectly executed classic French fare. This is one of only three restaurants in Singapore to be graced by three Michelin stars. Chef Sébastien Lepinoy exclusively uses the finest seasonal ingredients flown directly from France to tantalise his customers' taste buds. As you can imagine, all this does not come cheap: a four-course dinner is upwards of S$400, and a three-course lunch starts at S$325. It's well worth it if you're an aficionado of the very best French cuisine.

Mango dessert, Les Amis | CHERI CHEN/STOCKIMO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

MORE ON ORCHARD ROAD

A Trail of Public Art

STREET-SIDE GEMS OF THE ART WORLD

Amid the glittering modern malls that grace Orchard Rd, it's easy to overlook the exquisite public art scattered throughout Singapore's most glamorous shopping district. But it's worth seeking out. Along the front of the Paragon you'll find Sun Yu-li's sculptures Celebrations, Endearment, Courtship, Development, Friendship and Relaxation. Across the road, in the public plaza of marble-and-granite behemoth Ngee Ann City, Liu Ji Lin's pair of Harmony sculptures flank the fountain. Just steps away, in front of ION Orchard, you'll find the eye-catching Urban People by Kurt Laurenz Metzler and Kumari Nahappan's giant Nutmeg & Mace, a homage to the area's humble origins as a place filled with fruit orchards, nutmeg plantations and pepper farms. As you venture further west along the road towards the recently rebranded voco hotel, the formidable sculptures Wei Chi Jing De and Qin Shu Bao by Aw Eng Kwang stand as guardians at the entrance, while the hotel's facade proudly showcases Gerard D'Alton Henderson's striking sculptural relief Eulogy to Singapore. The entrance plaza of the swanky St Regis Hotel showcases three artworks, Fernando Botero's Reclining Woman, the Dragon-Riding Bodhisattva by Li Chen, and the Sense Surround by Anthony Poon.

Urban People by Kurt Laurenz Metzler, ION Orchard Mall | Dr David Sing/shutterstock ©

WHERE TO EAT ON ORCHARD ROAD

Caroline Tang-Fowkes, a pricing analyst, shares her recommendations on the best places to eat in the neighbourhood.

Haidilao Hot Pot

The four-square pot means you can choose four soup bases, making it easy to try new flavours – beware the Sichuan Spicy! Definitely order the hand-pulled noodles, which are pulled tableside by a dancing chef.

Sushiro

Quick, fresh and affordable conveyer-belt sushi. The touchpad ordering system lets you get what you want, when you want, delivered to your seat.

Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck

There’s a three-day preorder policy, as it takes that long to prep each duck, but the crispy skin is so worth the advance planning.

BEST ACCOMMODATION NEAR THE STRIP

Lloyd's Inn

Minimalist 34-room haven steps from Orchard Rd, with roof terrace, garden deck and dipping pool. $$

Goodwood Park Hotel

Hilltop heritage hotel with colonial architecture, luxury amenities and impeccable service. $$$

Pan Pacific Orchard

Jenga-esque newcomer adding stylish jungle vibes to this famous shopping strip. $$$

New York Bar Far From Home

CRAFT COCKTAILS AND BOOZY MILKSHAKES

Manhattan may appear slightly distant from the cocktail-centric neighbourhoods of Chinatown and the CBD. But an extraordinary experience awaits those who venture to this vintage Big Apple–themed watering hole nestled within the Conrad hotel. The venue is a fixture on Asia's 50 Best Bars list, and its meticulously crafted cocktail menu – currently on its second volume – resembles a collection of New York luminaries. Fortunately, a section dedicated to the crème de la crème concoctions from Volume 1 ensures that patrons won't miss out on such delights as the smoky Leather Jacket (inspired by the Ramones). The food selection includes a delectable array of beloved American classics, including tacos, hot dogs, and mac 'n' cheese, each elevated far beyond ordinary expectations.

If this all sounds right up your alley, brace yourself for the luxurious, adults-only Sunday brunch that takes place from noon till 3pm. Priced around S$200 per head (plus fees and taxes), it's an array of culinary delights that will have you noshing your way through New York's diverse brunch culture. As the welcome trolley approaches, laden with Bloody Marys and the ingredients for crafting your own spritzers, you can already sense that a splendid afternoon lies ahead. Follow this up with a flow of craft cocktails and boozy milkshakes, and an abundance of fresh seafood, slow-cooked meats and buttermilk fried chicken, and you'll start to wonder how you'll ever lift yourself from the deep, plush leather couch where you're comfortably seated. And just when you thought it couldn't get any better, behold the Design Your Own Donut station – a temptation that cannot be ignored.

SINGAPORE'S GOT TALENT

As you trawl the shopping malls you’ll come across numerous entertainment venues offering KTV – that’s karaoke television, for the uninitiated. Here singing enthusiasts showcase their vocal talents in thematic rooms, complete with state-of-the-art audiovisual systems and (thankfully) soundproofing.

You can purchase food and drinks inside, and you pay by the hour. It’s always good to check the song lists before heading inside. The malls around Somerset MRT are a hub for this popular Singaporean pastime.

BEST ORCHARD MALL FOOD COURTS

Takashimaya Food Village

Sprawling subterranean food hall with a who's who of Japanese, Korean and other Asian delights. $

ION Orchard Food Opera

In an upscale setting, Food Opera showcases local cuisine surrounded by colonial heritage charm. $

Wisma Atria Food Republic

Transport yourself to post-independence Singapore and indulge in street food and regional delicacies. $

Newton Food Centre

HQ OF HAWKER FAVOURITES

One of Singapore's most famous hawker centres, Newton even had a starring role in the 2018 cinema hit Crazy Rich Asians. This place has been cranking out hawker fare since 1971. Popular with locals and tourists alike, its smoky open-air inner courtyard is the place to sit. Make sure to secure yourself a table – take note of the number, as some stalls deliver – before scouting out the 100-plus stalls for some delectable grub. Hawker heavyweights here include Heng (01-28) – it's not your traditional sweet carrot cake, but give it a go; Alliance Seafood (01-27), for saucy chilli crab with a side of fried mantou buns; TKR (01-33), with sticks of pork, mutton and chicken satay charred to perfection; and Hup Kee Fried Oyster Omelette (01-73), serving up crispy-edged omelettes with super-plump oysters. Some stalls will have long queues or lengthy wait times, but don't be deterred as that's all just part of the fun. Beer is available from the drinks stall, and often a server will come to your table. Most stalls won't provide napkins, so it's a good idea to carry a packet of tissues with you – you can also use it to chope (save) your seat. If you make a right mess of yourself, there are handwashing basins outside the bathrooms. Cash is preferred; most places won't take cards. You'll find ATMs to the left of the main entrance.

POST-SHOP PAMPERING

If you require a bit of pampering after a long day at the shops, numerous spas are available to help you unwind.

For a cheap and cheerful foot rub, head to Lucky Plaza, where skilled reflexology masseuses are ready and waiting to squeeze the life back into your tootsies – be warned: the pressure is usually quite firm, so speak up if you need a more gentle touch.

For a midrange rubdown, the Nautuland branch at 541 Orchard Rd offers everything from sports massage to body scrubs.

Finally, if money is no object, book at Remède Spa at the St Regis hotel, where you can indulge in the luxurious Bastien's Duo, a decadent four-hand synchronised massage treatment.

BEST CAFES ALONG ORCHARD ROAD

Merci Marcel

Outdoor tables are coveted at this French-inspired spot, especially at lunch; book, or arrive before 11.30am. $$

Alchemist The Heeren

Coffee enthusiasts love this minimalistic sip-and-go spot hugging the outside of The Heeren. Great pastries. $$

Wild Honey

Longtime Orchard favourite serving up excellent all-day breakfasts inspired by all corners of the globe. $$

Malls, Malls, Malls

WHERE TO GO FOR WHAT
an abundance of high-end malls eagerly awaits your patronage. Among the most renowned shopping temples, ION Orchard reigns supreme, with plenty of fancy restaurants in case you need the stamina to keep shopping. If you have little ones to adorn, make a beeline for Paragon, where you’ll find upscale designer threads for tiny tykes as well as toy stores and an indoor playground. The mall is connected to a tower of medical suites catering to those who want some Botox with their Balenciaga. The impressive Ngee Ann City hosts all the usual players, plus a branch of the prestigious Japanese department store Takashimaya. Note that most boutiques in these malls will have queues, kept in check with velvet ropes (at least).

If high-street labels are your style (and price range), you can usually find branches in the basement levels of luxury malls, but if you’d like to see your fashion in daylight, head to 313@Somerset and Orchard Central, where you’ll definitely get more bang for your buck. Next door, the stand-alone H&M flagship store is ready and waiting. If it’s more one-of-a-kind clothing boutiques and unique homewares you seek, explore expat-focused Tanglin Mall, where you’ll find plenty of both.

Despite the glitz and glamour of Orchard Rd, some budget-friendly shopping spots still exist. Lucky Plaza is a beacon for many of the country’s foreign domestic workers, but hidden slightly off the main drag on Scotts Rd is Far East Plaza (not to be confused with Far East Shopping Centre). It's filled to the brim with cheap and cheerful fashion boutiques, beauty spas and suit makers.

Takashimaya department store | Sorbis/shutterstock ©

SKY-HIGH CITY VIEWS

If you’re feeling high after splashing some moolah at ION Orchard, prepare to get a lot higher! ION Sky is perched 56 levels up and offers an impressive view of the surrounding areas; on clear days, you can see Malaysia in the north and Indonesia in the south.

If you download the ION Sky app, local landmarks are easily identifiable through augmented reality – pretty cool. To secure a spot (limited daily availability from noon to 4pm), take the lift from level 4, near Concierge, to 1-Atico, and present any same-day receipt of a minimum of S$50. You'll get a complimentary welcome drink.

BEST BARS AROUND ORCHARD NEIGHBOURHOOD

Manhattan

Inspired by the Golden Age of cocktails, this grand hotel bar is an absolute must for aficionados of fine libations.

Atico Lounge & Bar

Located atop Ion Orchard, soaring 55 stories into the sky, this bar offers knockout views alongside classy cocktails and substantial bar bites.

The Other Room

Hidden in the Singapore Marriott's lobby, this speakeasy-inspired watering hole is the ultimate destination for lively late-night tipples.

Eastern Singapore

PERANAKAN CULTURE AND COASTAL ACTIVITIES

Singapore’s eastern coastline was once a settlement that saw its fair share of pirate vessels and navel scuffles.

Historical buildings | TravellingFatman/shutterstock ©

The area was long characterised by its kampong (villages), mango swamps, coconut plantations, and holiday bungalows for wealthy city folk. But that all changed with the East Coast land-reclamation scheme, dubbed the ‘Great Reclamation’, which began in 1962. The region underwent a radical transformation as 1525 hectares of land was added to the island’s south-eastern coast, in turn spurring population growth. As Singapore looks towards the future, plans are in the works to add another swath of reclaimed land to the coastline in the form of an offshore island, which will again change the face of the East Coast.

These days the eastern neighbourhoods, which make up a large part of the island, receive far less attention from tourists than those of the city centre. It’s a shame, because these vibrant neighbourhoods are generally more reflective of Singaporean culture. Closest to the city is Geylang, at once notorious as a red-light district, and spiritually rich, with myriad temples and mosques. The staggering amount of food outlets here is also a major attraction. Moving eastwards, you’ll come to Joo Chiat (part of the Katong neighbourhood), a picturesque neighbourhood of restored multicoloured shophouses that has come into its own as the spiritual heartland of Singapore’s Peranakan community.

Bordering Joo Chiat, and stretching for several kilometres along the seafront from the city right up to Tanah Merah, is East Coast Park, which offers various recreational activities and a beautiful natural environment. Don’t discount a visit to Changi and Pasir Ris, the city’s easternmost regions. Here you’ll find the moving Changi Museum and the kids’ water theme park Chapel, as well as the launching place for bumboats (motorised sampans) to the bucolic, bike-friendly retreat of Pulau Ubin.

Joo Chiat Rd | mehdi33300/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

JOO CHIAT

A cultural treasure showcasing the origins and rich heritage of Singapore’s Indian community.

GEYLANG

Singapore’s (fairly tame) red-light district, juxtaposed with temples, mosques and some of the best food on the island.

EAST COAST PARK

This breezy coastline park, loved by locals looking to stretch their legs, is filled with fun and food for all the family.

CHANGI CHAPEL & MUSEUM

A moving tribute to the civilians and POWs who were interned in Singapore during the Japanese occupation.

TOP SIGHTS

1  Eurasian Heritage Gallery

2  Geylang Serai Heritage Gallery

3  No Signboard Seafood

4  Peranakan, Koon Seng Rd Shophouses

5  Sri Senpaga Vinayagar Temple

6  Sri Sivan Temple

SIGHTS

7  Katong Antique House

8  Lorong 24A

9  Lorong 27

10  Lorong 34

11  Straits Enclave

12  The Intan

ACTIVITIES

13  Climb Central

EATING

14  Baba Chews

15  Geylang Serai Market

16  Guan Hoe Soon

17  Kim Choo Kueh Chang

18  Kim Choo Kueh Chang (Katong)

19  Old Airport Rd Food Centre

20  Old Bibik’s Peranakan Kitchen

21  Sin Hoi Eating House

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

22  Choice Cuts Goods + Coffee

23  Common Man

24  Freebird

25  Supernova

SHOPPING

see 8   Eng Tiang Huat Chinese Cultural Shop

24  Onlewo

25  RetroCrates

see 27  Rumah Bebe

TOP TIP

Before you take the bus or jump in a taxi to discover Singapore’s eastern neighbourhoods, check to see whether the new Thomson-East Coast Line (TEL) is up and running. Expected to open in 2024, this new line offering stops at Katong, Marina Parade and Siglap will make exploring Eastern Singapore a breeze.

I LIVE HERE: LOCAL BARS & EATS

Tom Hogan, Regional Asia General Manager for Proof & Company and co-founder of Joo Chiat natural-wine specialist store Wine Mouth, lists the best drinking and dining in the East. @winemouthsg

Freebird

Great craft-beer joint with 12 beers on tap. Afterwards, head to Happy Wok for Singapore’s best chicken rice (fight me) or mee goreng (stir-fried noodles).

Sin Hoi Eating House

Head to this casual street-side eatery for a pile of red-wine ribs. It’s BYO wine, so bring a chilled light red or pét nat (light sparkling wine) with you.

Choice Cuts Goods + Coffee

A New York–inspired record-pizza-coffeeshop that can be summed up in three words: ‘by the slice’.

Sri Senpaga Vinayagar Temple

GLORIOUS DEDICATION TO GANESHA

One of the most beautiful Hindu temples in Singapore, Sri Senpaga Vinayagar is notable for its kamala paatham, a specially sculpted granite foot stone found in certain ancient Hindu temples. The structure is adorned inside with colourful devotional art – pieces are labelled in a range of languages. Adding to the building's grandeur is the inner sanctum sanctorum, which boasts a lavish roof adorned with a resplendent layer of gold. This crowning feature provides a striking visual spectacle, further enhancing the temple's allure.

Sri Senpaga Vinayagar Temple | Sorbis/shutterstock ©

Eurasian Heritage Gallery

SMALL BUT MIGHTY COMMUNITY

Constituting less than 1% of the population, Singapore's Eurasian community may be small, but it beautifully embodies the country's East-meets-West dynamic. This unique ethnic group was born from the fusion of European and Asian heritage. As you explore the three galleries found within the Eurasian Community House, you can delve into this diverse community's rich history, notable achievements and vibrant culture, spanning religion, cuisine, music and sports. The museum, situated on the 3rd floor, offers an enlightening journey of discovery. To savour the delightful flavours of Eurasian cuisine, make your way to Quentin's, located on the ground floor of the same building.

Koon Seng Road Shophouses

PERANAKAN SHOPHOUSE PERFECTION

If you venture just off Joo Chiat Rd, you’ll discover what is arguably Singapore’s most colourful and photographed street: Koon Seng Rd, lined with extraordinary Peranakan terrace houses. These multicoloured beauties are joyously adorned with an assortment of stucco dragons, birds and crabs, and brilliantly glazed tiles. A feature of this style of architecture are the pintu pagar (swinging doors) at the dwellings' front entrances, which allow for refreshing cross-breezes and also ensure privacy. Nowadays most of the terrace houses serve as private homes, which is worth keeping in mind when you visit. Though the occupants seem reconciled to the constant presence of photographers and Instagrammers intent on capturing the charm of the neighbourhood, it might try their patience at times.

TOP SIGHTS

1  Changi Chapel & Museum

2  Coney Island

3  Hua Yu Wee Seafood

4  Jewel

5  Loyang Tua Pek Kong Temple

SIGHTS

6  East Coast Park

7  Johore Battery

ACTIVITIES

8  Wild Wild Wet

EATING

9  Changi Village Hawker Centre

10  East Coast Lagoon Food Village

11  Georges@Changi

DRINKING

12  Little Island Brewing Co

13  PS. Café East Coast Park

ENTERTAINMENT

14  Forest Adventure

No Signboard Seafood

FINGER-LICKING WHITE-PEPPER CRAB

Originating as an unnamed hawker stall in the 1970s (hence 'No Signboard'), this crab and seafood restaurant is now a Singapore icon. Founder Madam Ong Kim Hoi secured its fame when she invented the Singaporean white-pepper crab: the sharp flavour pairs perfectly with the sweet crab meat. Patrons also rave about the chilli crab (you can customise the spice level) and the crunchy cereal prawns. As night descends, the outdoor dining space springs to life; the whirring fans and florescent lighting add to the old-school appeal.

JOHORE BATTERY

Military buffs should make their way to the Johore Battery, which lies just north along Cosford Rd. Part of the British coastal artillery defence network, the battery was armed with three monstrous 15in naval guns, which were engaged during the Battle of Singapore in 1942.

The original guns are long gone, but there's a replica in position for visitors to see. A small hut provides photos and information.

From late 2023 refreshments will be available next door at a new container park.

Eng Tiang Huat Chinese Cultural Shop

A MASTER OF MEMORIES

Cross the threshold of this enchanting Geylang shophouse to behold a treasure trove of Chinese antiques, textiles, opera props, costumes and traditional instruments, and an abundance of vibrant red banners. However, it’s the unassuming old Singer sewing machine that steals the spotlight, for it's here that third-generation owner Jeffery Eng preserves his memories as a master of embroidery crafts. Jeffery’s grandfather established a tailoring business at the site in the 1930s (and the store still bears his name). Due to stiff competition, the business began importing Chinese-made goods and then slowly morphed into a purveyor of traditional Chinese cultural products. Today, Jeffery is only too happy to guide visitors through his store, sharing his craft and his stories.

Changi Chapel & Museum

MOVING POW TRIBUTE

The revamped Changi Chapel & Museum stands as a tribute to the resilience and courage of the civilian internees and prisoners of war (POWs) who were held here during the Japanese occupation. Through eight distinctive zones, the museum chronicles the internees' harrowing experiences through personal artefacts, interactive displays, photographs and gripping accounts. A poignant highlight is the replica Changi Prison cell, complete with an authentic door; built for one, cells like this were used for up to four prisoners. Visitors can hear historical recordings of conversations between internees through speakers strategically placed within the cell. Resourcefulness and determination are showcased in the tiny Morse code transmitter hidden in a matchbox and the replica British and Australian patchwork quilts created by women internees – these quilts sometimes carried secret codes embedded in the motifs, with messages only loved ones could decode.

The museum is also home to remarkable full-size replicas of the famous Changi Murals painted by POW Stanley Warren in the old POW hospital. The original murals, located in Block 151 of the nearby Changi Army Camp, are inaccessible to the public. The museum's centrepiece is a replica of the Changi Chapel built by inmates as a focus for worship and a sign of solidarity; here, visitors can find the Changi Cross, crafted in 1942 using the casing of a 4.5in howitzer shell and brass strips sourced from camp workshops. Interactive robot Temi offers tours through the eyes of an interned soldier.

Changi Chapel | RogerMechan/shutterstock ©

MORE MEMORIES & MONUMENTS

For a deeper understanding of Singapore's military history, you can visit a number of poignant sites, including the Battle Box museum in Fort Canning Park, Bukit Timah's Former Ford Factory, and Kranji War Memorial.

Geylang Serai Heritage Gallery

DEEP DIVE INTO THE DISTRICT

This small but well-laid-out museum gives a wonderful snapshot of the communities that have called Geylang Serai home over the decades. The gallery is split into three main sections for easy digestion.

'Making of Geylang Serai' relates the district’s history, tracing its origins as a lemongrass and citronella plantation through its transformation into an outlying settler community and then a modern residential estate.

There are also 'Living in Geylang Serai', which focuses on the area's present-day incarnation, and 'Our Geylang Serai: Community and Heritage', which shares the local community’s experiences and memories through photographs, recordings, books and other exhibits.

Sri Sivan Temple

TRAVELLING TEMPLE TALES

This is the story of the travelling temple. Constructed on Orchard Rd in the 1850s, the Sri Sivan Temple honours the deity Shiva. In the 1980s the land on which it was built was acquired for development, and the temple was uprooted and temporarily relocated to Serangoon Rd, before finally settling in its present Geylang location in 1993. What sets the temple apart is its whimsical and intricate design, combining elements from North and South Indian architectural styles.

This fusion is beautifully showcased in the grand octagonal structure made from thousands of hand-carved marble and limestone pieces. Visitors are welcome to explore inside; wear respectful attire and remove your shoes at the door.

Sri Sivan Temple | frédéric araujo/Alamy Stock Photo ©

Loyang Tua Pek Kong Temple

A RELIGIOUS MELTING POT

Loyang Tua Pek Kong has its origins in the 1980s, when a simple hut was constructed to house statues of Taoist, Buddhist and Hindu deities discovered near the Loyang coastline. Unfortunately, a fire in 1996 devastated the shrine, leading to the construction of a temple at Loyang Way before the institution moved to its current location in 2007.

Today this contemporary temple showcases impressive wooden carvings, intricate designs of swirling dragons, and hundreds of colourful effigies depicting deities, gods and saints. It represents the inclusive Singaporean approach to spirituality, bringing together three religions – Hinduism, Buddhism and Taoism – under one vast roof. There's even a shrine dedicated to Datuk Kung, a revered figure in Malay mysticism and Chinese Taoist traditions.

Tua Pek Kong Temple | SIVAROCK/GETTY IMAGES ©

Hua Yu Wee Seafood

CASUAL, CHAOTIC CHINESE DINING

Nothing much has changed here since 1970 – except the addition of air-con – and that's the way Singaporeans would like to keep it.

Located in a colonial bungalow from a time when East Coast Rd still had a beachfront, this establishment offers a relaxed atmosphere with plenty of outdoor seating; it's informal, bustling and a true Singaporean experience. Traditional zi char (sharing) dishes and seafood are on offer – order the chilli crab and crispy baby squid from waitresses kitted out in Singapore Airlines kebayas (Nonya-style blouses).

Jewel

LIKE NO OTHER AIRPORT MALL

If you're travelling through Changi airport, save some time to explore the architecturally awe-inspiring Jewel. Looking like the set of Jurassic Park thanks to its cascading gardens, this multidimensional lifestyle destination was designed by Moshe Safdie of Marina Bay Sands fame. The levels are filled with everything you could dream of finding at an airport: top-notch restaurants, local and global retailers, a cinema, spas, a hotel, mazes, a canopy park – the list goes on. But the true marvel is the 40m-high waterfall descending from the glass dome ceiling. The world's largest indoor waterfall, the HSBC Rain Vortex will take your breath away.

Rain Vortex, Jewel | Travel man/shutterstock ©

Coney Island

CYCLE THROUGH A WILDLIFE HAVEN

Accessible to the public via two pedestrian roads, this wild nature reserve is perfect for those keen to escape the city. Boasting a diverse range of flora and fauna, it's a paradise for birdwatchers, who will love the bird hides. The reserve encompasses a variety of habitats, including mangroves, grasslands, casuarina woodlands and coastal forests, all interconnected by trails that span the island. Enter via the west entrance, about 500m from the Punggol Settlement; while you're here, be sure to use the bathrooms (note there's only one on the island's eastern side!) and stock up on water. You can also rent a bike, which serves as the perfect means of transportation for exploring the island. For the best wildlife sightings, arrive early; a family of otters loves to bask on the beaches here. A word of warning: bring insect repellent and keep an eye out for monkeys, who would love to relieve you of your food. Also bear in mind that the gates close for the day at 7pm sharp.

Rose myrtle, Coney Island | NEDLA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A WALK OF DISCOVERY THROUGH JOO CHIAT

Joo Chiat is best seen on foot, so you can admire the architecture and duck in and out of the area’s funky boutiques and cafes. Start your adventure at 1 Geylang Sari Market and Food Centre: explore the wet market before grabbing some nosh at the hawker centre. Head across Changi Rd and down Joo Chiat Rd before taking a left onto Joo Chiat Tce. Here, visit 2 Hat of Cain if you’re in the market for a genuine Panama before walking on to view a stunning row of shophouses and visit private museum 3 The Intan (tour bookings required). Turning right at Everitt Rd, you’ll see the playful 4 Jousting Painters mural by Ernest Zacharevic (dubbed Malaysia’s Banksy). Continue south to Joo Chiat Pl, with a line of elegant shophouses. Double back towards Joo Chiat Rd and head left down Tembeling Rd to the ornate 5 Kuan Im Tng Temple, then turn right onto Joo Chiat Lane and head back to Joo Chiat Rd. Grab a caffeine hit at 6 Common Man. No visit to Joo Chiat would be complete without a walk past the colourful shophouses of 7 Koon Seng Road. Once you’re photoed out, continue down Joo Chiat Rd, popping in and out of old stores, such as rattan haven 8 Teong Theng Co, and funky boutiques, including 9 The AC and 10 Cat Socrates. Turn right when you reach East Coast Rd to discover Peranakan boutique 11 Rumah Bebe and snack purveyor 12 Kim Choo Kueh Chang. Finally, take a right up Ceylon Rd to visit the stunning 13 Sri Senpaga Vinayagar Temple before doubling back to cult-status 14 328 Katong Laksa for a bowl of lip-smacking goodness.

Cat Socrates, Joo Chiat Rd | Jason Knott/Alamy Stock Photo ©

MORE IN EASTERN SINGAPORE

Discover Geylang's Hidden Gems

SPIRITUAL HUB WITH A NAUGHTY SIDE

All those salacious rumours about Geylang being an open-air meat market peppered with brothels, girly bars, dubious hotels and alley after alley lined with sex workers are absolutely accurate. The district is a long way from Bangkok's Patpong, but a nocturnal stroll along its streets reveals a pretty risqué ambience – well, by Singaporean standards.

Yet strange as it may seem, Geylang is also one of the Lion City's spiritual hubs, with huge temples and mosques, and picturesque alleys dotted with religious schools, shrines and temples. A daytime stroll through the lorongs (alleys) that run north to south between Sims Ave and Geylang Rd offers little-seen charm for those who take the time to look.

Several fetching side streets well worth checking out include tree-lined little Lorong 27, chock-a-block with colourful shrines and temples. Chanting is a familiar sound on Lorong 24A – many of its renovated shophouses are home to small Buddhist associations. Gorgeous Lorong 34 boasts restored and unrestored shophouses painted in varying hues, several colourful shrines, and braziers for burning incense.

Geylang's other blessing is its food scene. Geylang Rd and Sims Ave teem with cheap, tasty, unceremonious local eateries. If you're still feeling adventurous, treat yourself to a bowl of frog porridge, for which the area is famous – try Geylang Lor 9 Fresh Frog Porridge. Late-night revellers can head to never-closed 126 Dim Sum Wen Dao Shi for a delicious dumpling pick-me-up.

Shophouses, Geylang | Justin Adam Lee/shutterstock ©

BEST HAWKER CENTRES IN THE EAST

East Coast Lagoon Food Village

Head to East Coast Park as the sun sets for satay and seafood. $

Old Airport Road Food Centre

Boasting an army of 168 stalls, with many ‘die, die, must try’ dishes. $

Changi Village Hawker Centre

Seaside centre with numerous highly praised nasi lemak (coconut rice) vendors. $

Geylang Serai Market & Food Centre

Lined with Malay and Indian stalls, this is a good spot for nasi padang (rice with curries). $

WHERE TO STAY IN THE EAST

Hotel Indigo

Stunning Peranakan-inspired hotel bursting with nostalgic memorabilia. Has rooftop infinity pool. $$

Coliwoo Hotel Gay World

Co-living hotel (self-contained rooms with communal spaces) that's the perfect gateway to Geylang. $$

Betel Box

Affordable hostel in the middle of Joo Chiat. Be sure to book one of its neighbourhood tours. $

Get Active in the East

TIME TO BREAK A SWEAT

Eastern Singapore covers a vast swath of land from Geylang to Changi, so there's abundant space to stretch your legs and get your heart pumping.

Known as East Coasters' communal backyard, the 15km stretch of seafront known as East Coast Park is where Singaporeans come to swim, windsurf, wakeboard, kayak, picnic, bicycle, skateboard and in-line skate. You'll find swaying coconut palms, patches of bushland, a lagoon, sea-sports clubs and some excellent eating options. Kid-friendly playgrounds abound, while bike rentals are conveniently scattered along the shoreline.

Embark on an exhilarating aerial escapade at action-packed treetop Forest Adventure. The grounds cater to various age groups with three distinct courses (minimum height requirement of 110cm and recommended minimum age of five). Thrill-seekers will revel in wobbly crossings and adrenaline-pumping zip lines. Older children can conquer the awe-inspiring Big Zip, spanning 300m over water from a 14m-high platform – brace yourself!

Get splash happy at water-themed fun park Wild Wild Wet. Its 16 'rides' include twisting water slides, a wave pool and a mat-racer water slide. If you're after a serious thrill, hit the Torpedo, which will hurtle you from an 18m-high capsule for a free fall you won't forget in a hurry. Thankfully, there are also a Jacuzzi and a tube-floating river to soothe frazzled nerves.

Ascend to awe-inspiring heights at indoor vertical playground Climb Central, catering to adventure seekers of all ages. Scale multiple high walls and embrace the challenge of the incredible bouldering area to truly engage your muscles. Newcomers can do a guided one-hour Taster session (bookings required) to kick-start their climbing journey.

JOURNEY TO THE FAR EAST

Getting to Changi Village is an adventure in itself.

Option one is to catch the East West MRT to Tanah Merah station, from where bus 2 will whisk you right into the heart of the village.

Option two is to grab a bike from one of the rental kiosks in East Coast Park and pedal the flat 15km route to the village. You'll go east through tranquil coastal parkland, north along Changi Coast Rd (heaven for plane spotters) and finally west along Changi Beach.

BEST EASTERN SINGAPORE TOURS

Betal Box

Legendary food walks, particularly the Friday-evening Sins and Salvation through Geylang's lorongs.

Cookery Magic

Cooking classes in chef Ruqxana’s home. Whip up dishes from regional cuisines including Peranakan and Eurasian.

Singapore Sidecars

Take in Joo Chiat from the sidecar of a vintage Vespa – super fun and great for photos!

Enjoy a Beachside City Break

SEA BREEZES AND VILLAGE FEELS

On the far-northeast coast, Changi Village is a welcome respite from the commotion of the city. Exploring this area provides a glimpse of a more laid-back side to Singapore, where locals embrace the comfort of sleeveless T-shirts, board shorts and flip-flops – the quintessential heartlander uniform. While the low-slung buildings are modern, the atmosphere exudes a village-like charm, with the lively Changi Village Hawker Centre the focal point. Foodies flock here for the three nasi lemak (coconut rice) stalls, sparking endless debates about which serves the best version. To join the discussion, sample a plate from Missy Corner (01-26), International Muslim Food Stall Nasi Lemak (01-23) and Changi Famous Nasi Lemak (01-28).

Crossing the footbridge to Changi Beach, you'll come to a place where thousands of Singaporean civilians were executed during WWII. It's hard to believe such violence took place in this picturesque spot. You can stroll and sunbathe here, but the beach isn't ideal for swimming.

Adjacent to the hawker centre and a short distance from Changi Beach is the ferry terminal, where you can catch bumboats (motorised sampans) to nostalgic Pulau Ubin or to Malaysia's Desaru Coast. You'll find the starting point for the Changi Point Coastal Walk just beyond the terminal. It's a breezy 2.2km-long boardwalk that will take you past mangroves, a sandy beach and the verdant grounds of government holiday villas.

The walk leads to the private Changi Sailing Club, whose public Georges@Changi restaurant-bar is a beautiful spot to polish off a couple of beers while gazing out at bobbing yachts and Pulau Ubin. Alternatively, head back to Changi Village and take a seat at Little Island Brewing Co, a microbrewery and smokehouse, for sundowners and live music.

BEST PERANAKAN EATS

Guan Hoe Soon

Singapore's oldest Peranakan restaurant (established 1953). Must-try: ayam buah keluak (chicken with black nut). $$

Old Bibik’s Peranakan Kitchen

Time-honoured recipes ensure faithful customers. The beef rendang melts in your mouth. $

Baba Chews

Not strictly Peranakan, but its modern twists on old favourites make it worth a stop. $$

Kim Choo Kueh Chang

Traditional Nyona kuehs and rice dumplings since 1945. The ondeh ondeh (sweet pandan rice-cake ball) and the kueh dadah (pandan crepes with coconut and palm sugar) are top picks. $

BEST CAFES ON THE EAST COAST

PS. Cafe East Coast Park

All the black-and-white beachy feels with stellar water views, nosh and coffee.

Supernova

Perfect for a hearty breakfast, with caffeine on point. Nighttime brings cocktails and natural wines.

Common Man

All-day brunching at its finest. It has a coffee academy and its own roastery – good coffee is a given.

Dive into Joo Chiat's Peranakan Culture

PRIVATE MUSEUMS WORTH BOOKING

All three of these private museums are open by appointment only, but they are definitely well worth the advance planning. Whether you choose to visit one or all, each offers a unique and enriching deep dive into all things Peranakan.

Nestled on Joo Chiat Tce, private residence–museum The Intan offers a range of classes and experiences. Owner and curator Alvin Yapp warmly welcomes visitors and shares the captivating stories behind his extensive collection of Peranakan antiques, artefacts and textiles. He has been amassing the collection for over three decades. Treat yourself to the Tea Experience, where you can savour delightful Nonya kuehs (bite-sized snacks) while immersing yourself in the culture.

The lifelong passion of the late Mr Peter Wee, founder and fourth-generation Peranakan, Katong Antique House on East Coast Rd is filled with painstakingly curated antiques, artefacts, furniture, pictures and jewellery. The museum is now lovingly maintained by its new guardians, Eric Ang and Angeline Kong, who passionately strive to preserve Mr Wee’s dream and heritage.

Sign yourself up for a cultural talk at Straits Enclave, a picture-perfect shophouse on Joo Chiat Rd, where you can discover Baba-Nonya culture while feasting your eyes on an incredible collection of colourful antiques and artefacts. Don’t miss the 150-year-old bed, perfectly prepared and laid out for a traditional Peranakan wedding. Professional photoshoots can be arranged, complete with authentic clothing styles, hair and makeup. Workshops are also available, offering hands-on experiences in Peranakan pastimes such as intricate beadwork and batik fabric painting.

Changi Sailing Club | huntergol hp/shutterstock ©

KING OF FRUITS

Durians get a bad rap in Singapore. They're banned from nearly all public transport (most notably the MRT); few hotels will allow one through their doors; and many shopping malls enforce a 'no durians' policy.

Why? Well, they reek. However, many Singaporeans adore them, so you should at least try one.

You'll find several street-side stalls, with tables for feasting, at the city end of Sims Ave. The sellers will happily advise what to pick and how to eat it.

Tip: use the offered gloves, or your hands will stink for days.

BEST SHOPS IN JOO CHIAT

Rumah Bebe

Heritage boutique selling all things Peranakan, including delicious Nonya food to go.

RetroCrates

Independent store specialising in pre-owned vinyl and new records. Head to sister store Goodvibes for merch.

Onlewo

Stunning Singapore heritage–based graphic prints and patterns on everything from fashion items to wallpaper.

Northern & Central Singapore

THE CITY’S LUSH GREEN LUNGS

With its medley of nature reserves, parks and hiking trails, this wonderfully wild and gloriously green part of Singapore offers an excellent respite from the concrete jungle.

Bukit Timah Nature Reserve | GoWildGoNature Pictures/shutterstock ©

As part of Singapore’s ‘City in a Garden’ master plan, new reserves are springing up in this part of the island, expanding its ever-growing network of green spaces.

From treetop walks and mountain biking trails, there is so much to explore in northern and central Singapore for outdoor lovers. Active travellers should definitely hit the cross-country Rail Corridor trail, stretching from Kranji Node in the north to Clementi Forest in the south. If you’re in search of a jungle hike near town, either head up Singapore’s tallest hill at Bukit Timah Nature Reserve or hit the mountain-bike paths in Chestnut Nature Park. Pack plenty of water, douse yourself in mosquito repellent and fuel up with hawker fare before setting off to discover the island’s swathes of wilderness.

If hiking isn’t your thing, you could seek out the area’s grand temples and traditional kampongs (villages), and pay a visit to the Mandai Wildlife Reserve. This is where you’ll find a conglomeration of wildlife parks, all of them dedicated to conservation education. Have breakfast with orangutans at the Singapore Zoo, board a boat to glide by manatees and capybaras at River Wonders, or watch a Sulawesi hornbill soar overhead in the new Bird Paradise. Each place promises a highly educational and engaging experience.

Alternatively, venture further into the heartland for a dip in the historical Sembawang Hot Springs. If you bring eggs, you can boil them in the balmy 38°C water and have your very own traditional Singaporean breakfast. For a respite in the countryside, take a stroll around the nearby Seletar Aerospace Park and kick back at the cafes housed in black-and-white colonial bungalows.

Bukit Timah Nature Reserve | N8Allen/shutterstockk ©

DON’T MISS

RAIL CORRIDOR

The newly established 24km green passageway spans the island from Kranji in the north to Tanjong Pagar in the south.

BUKIT TIMAH NATURE RESERVE

This listed ASEAN Heritage Park is home to one of the largest surviving tracts of primary rainforest in Singapore.

SINGAPORE ZOO

Get up close to orangutans and enjoy a breakfast buffet with them at this engaging, award-winning zoo.

MACRITCHIE RESERVOIR

See the jungle from new heights on the 25m-high Treetop Walk at MacRitchie Reservoir.

TOP SIGHTS

1  Bird Paradise

2  Bukit Timah Nature Reserve

3  Chestnut Nature Park

4  Lorong Buangkok

5  Night Safari

6  Rail Corridor Central Trail

7  Rifle Range Nature Park

8  River Wonders

9  Singapore Zoo

SIGHTS

10  Ang Mo Kio

11  Cheng Huang Temple

12  Former Ford Factory

13  Hampstead Wetlands Park

14  Lian Shuang Lin Monastery

15  MacRitchie Reservoir

16  Punggol

17  Seletar

18  Sembawang Hot Spring Park

19  Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall

20  Toa Payoh

21  Woodlands

22  Yishun Dam

ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS

23  HomeTeamNS Khatib

24  PAssion Wave Sembawang

25  SAFRA Punggol

26  SAFRA Yishun

27  Sengkang Pool

EATING

28  Canopy Bishan

29  Come Daily Fried Hokkien Prawn Mee

30  Cook House by Koufu

31  Jalan Kayu Thasevi Food

32  Mellben Seafood

33  Sin Ming Roti Prata

34  Slow Bakes

35  Wheeler’s Estate

36  Wildseed Café at The Summerhouse

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

37  Nelson Bar

38  Sixteen Ounces Bar & Kitchen

39  YOUNGS Bar & Restaurant

TOP TIP

Remember that once you’re out on the walking trails, it can be overwhelmingly hot and humid – and there’s nowhere to buy supplies. Be sure to wear a hat, slather on mosquito repellent, carry plenty of water, and bring a few snacks to keep you going.

I LIVE HERE: BEST LOCAL HAUNTS

Tay Yan Ping, UX Designer for Singaporean-owned gaming and lifestyle brand Razer, shares her favourite neighbourhood spots.

Yishun Dam

Sunset is my favourite time to stroll along the Yishun Dam, people-watch, and simply daydream.

Sin Ming Roti Prata

This humble stall has earned cult status among locals for serving up the crispiest roti prata (mini Indian flatbread) in town.

Slow Bakes

Set in the heartland of Yishun, this quaint open-concept cafe serves fresh-from-the-oven bakes and hearty breakfasts.

Wheeler’s Estate

Enjoy a farm-to-table experience at this upscale restaurant housed in a white-and-black colonial bungalow.

TOP SIGHT

Rail Corridor

Set to span the entire island from north to south by 2026, the 24km Rail Corridor is Singapore's first long-distance trail. Government agency NParks has turned a railway line connecting Singapore and Malaysia into a contiguous green spine, planting more than 52,000 native trees and shrubs along the corridor, restoring belts of forest, and rebuilding the natural habitat for endangered animal species.

Bukit Timah truss bridge | CHUA KOK BENG MARCUS/shutterstock ©

PRACTICALITIES

Use the Rail Corridor’s website (railcorridor.nparks.gov.sg) to plan your itinerary.

Rail Corridor: North, South or Central?

The long-distance hiking trail is divided into three sections. The central trail (4km) near Bukit Timah is the most popular tract, packing in interesting historical features such as steel bridges and restored stations. South of Bukit Timah, the southern trail (10km) is less scenic and still undergoing restoration; its main appeal is the Clementi Forest. The northern trail (10km), north of Hillview station, takes you through the real countryside of Singapore. Visitors with limited time are best advised to focus on the central trail and explore the offshoot nature reserves in the vicinity.

DON’T MISS

Bukit Timah Railway Station

Rifle Range Nature Reserve

Hinhede Nature Park

Singapore Quarry

Bukit Timah Truss Bridge

Clementi Forest

Kranji Node

Kranji Node

To experience the northern trail, begin your trek at the newly opened Kranji Node, across the road from Kranji MRT station. It’s an easy, shaded walk on flat ground. As Kranji is located along the coast, several native trees and coastal plants such as Geronggang (known for its timber) have been planted by NParks. As you trudge through the corridor towards the Hillview stretch, you’ll traverse an elevated ridgeline to reach a 6m-high lookout deck offering views of the Singapore Quarry and Bukit Timah Nature Reserve.

Singapore Quarry

Once used to mine granite, this quarry has long been filled with water and is now a jade-green lake backdropped by craggy cliffs and thick forest. Linger awhile and you might spot rare birds, fish, turtles or monitor lizards. There’s a spacious viewing deck at the side of the lake to take in the outlook and observe dragonflies flitting over the water.

WHERE TO START YOUR HIKE

The two endpoints of the Rail Corridor can be accessed from Kranji MRT station and (by 2026) Tanjong Pagar Railway Station. To walk the entire 24km, begin at the Kranji Node (northern end) or Spooner Rd (southern end), a short walk from Outram Park MRT. For a shorter, 7.5km hike along the route’s most historic parts, start at Buona Vista station and end at Hillview station.

Hinhede Nature Park

Just south of the quarry, Hinhede Nature Park is crisscrossed with easy hiking trails and well-marked footpaths. This scenic place is excellent for birdwatching – try to spot the resident banded woodpecker. Little ones will enjoy the several adventurous play areas that are dotted around the park.

Bukit Timah Railway Station

Take a break at the central trail’s midway point, marked by the Bukit Timah Railway Station. After a two-year restoration, the station has been given a facelift and repurposed as a heritage gallery. The track-switching levers, station signs and ticketing booth have remained untouched. Refuel at the 1932 Story Cafe, the former staff quarters, now decked out in vintage memorabilia and antiques. Just a short walk from the train station is the emblematic 1932 Bukit Timah truss bridge, complete with its sturdy black steel frames.

Clementi Forest

The most scenic stretch of the southern trail is an 85-hectare pocket of wilderness in the bustling Clementi residential area. Clementi Forest is the most important and largest unprotected patch of forest along the Rail Corridor, home to 98 species of vascular plant, including the rare Dienia ophrydis orchid. The hiking trail is as wild as it gets in Singapore, with tall trees looming over you, two rivers running beneath the trail, and certain sections of the path covered in mud. If you’re lucky, you might just spot an oriental pied hornbill soaring over your head.

TOP TIPS

• Visit early to make the most of mild morning temperatures.

• Wear proper hiking shoes, as the trail can get muddy.

• A sunhat, sunscreen and plenty of water are essential.

• There are several places to refuel; the Rail Mall (railmall.com.sg) has a range of cafes and restaurants.

• You'll see long-tailed macaques and monitor lizards along the trail; observe from a distance and don't feed them.

• The Rail Corridor is not lit at night, so bring your torch (flashlight) with you and avoid hiking alone. Extra care is needed at night because of active wildlife.

Bukit Timah Nature Reserve

HIKE TO SINGAPORE’S HIGHEST POINT

Topped by Singapore’s tallest hill, Bukit Timah Nature Reserve (nparks.gov.sg) is a swath of primary rainforest embellished with hiking trails and bike paths. Once teeming with tigers, this is the only reserve that has been protected under the management of the Singapore Botanic Gardens since the 1930s (the other reserves were all worked for timber). The last tiger was shot in the 1920s, but you’ll still find plenty of long-tailed macaques and dozens of bird species.

The 163-hectare sprawl is crisscrossed by five well-established walking trails that range in length and difficulty (return trips take 35 minutes to two hours), plus a popular 6km mountain-bike trail. You can rent bikes, helmets and other gear from Unsprung (unsprung.com.sg) along Hindhede Rd. For those who prefer to explore on foot, the quickest, most popular hike is the one leading to the summit of Bukit Timah (163m), Singapore’s highest peak.

To get to the reserve, take the MRT to Beauty World station (Exit A) and walk towards Hindhede Dr, where you'll find the reserve’s official entrance. It has a visitor centre with restrooms, water fountains, and an exhibition on the forest’s flora and fauna. Take plenty of water, smother yourself in mosquito repellent – and don't feed the monkeys, no matter how cute they are!

Bukit Timah Nature Reserve | AHBOON.NET/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GETTING AROUND

Northern & Central Singapore is encircled by the North-South Line and crisscrossed by the Downtown Line. Many of the nature reserves can be accessed on the Downtown Line; Beauty World MRT station is the main gateway to the Bukit Timah and Rifle Range reserves, while Hillview station gives access to the most historic section of the Rail Corridor. The four parks at the integrated Mandai Wildlife Reserve are a short ride on bus 138 from Springleaf MRT station on the Thomson–East Coast line. The Woodlands Train Checkpoint is the Singapore terminus for the shuttle train service to Johor Bahru in Malaysia; to get there, take bus 170 or 178 from Kranji MRT station.

Former Ford Factory

HISTORICAL LANDMARK TURNED MUSEUM

Immediately west of the nature reserve stands the former Ford Motors assembly plant, a landmark of significant importance in Singapore’s history.

This was where the British surrendered Singapore to the Japanese on 15 February 1942. The factory is now a museum with exhibitions that chart Singapore’s descent into war, the three dark years of Japanese occupation, and the island’s path to independence.

This sombre story is told through audio interviews, newsreels and harrowing personal accounts.

Rifle Range Nature Reserve

BOARDWALKS AND WETLANDS

Established in 2022 as a buffer for Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, 66-hectare Rifle Range occupies the site of the Sin Seng Quarry. NParks (nparks.gov.sg) occasionally runs walks exploring the park’s rich biodiversity.

The main entrance is near Beauty World MRT station. Learn about conservation at the Visitor Pavilion before traversing the elevated Gliders Boardwalk to the Quarry Wetland, a freshwater ecosystem backed by cliffs. Hike the Colugo Trail for a panorama of the quarry; choose between the 30m steep trail or the moderate 50m stepped route. Look out for animal-crossing features such as rope bridges and colugo poles along the way!

Chestnut Nature Park

TWO-WHEELED ADVENTURES

Mountain bikers, take note! This is the first park in Singapore with dedicated mountain-biking trails, from beginner to crazy advanced. Novices can practise in the two skill parks, while daredevils can execute drop-offs and jumps at the pump track.

Set across 81 hectares of dense jungle, this is also Singapore’s largest nature park, woven with hiking trails that run adjacent to the bike paths, separated by a barrier. The flat, easy Northern Trail (1.5km) leads to the spiralling Chestnut Observation Tower. It’s a good spot for wildlife watching – more than 25 species of bird have been sighted in this park. If you’re lucky, you might even see a sunda colugo (arboreal gliding mammal)! The 2.1km Southern Trail is rockier and steeper but also more scenic and interesting. Restrooms, water fountains and bike rentals are available at Chestnut Point.

To get here, take the Bukit Panjang LRT to Pending LRT station, then walk 20 minutes southeast along Bukit Panjang Rd and Chestnut Ave. A taxi from the city is about S$20 each way.

Observation Tower, Chestnut Nature Park | DLENG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Lorong Buangkok

SINGAPORE’S LAST REMAINING KAMPONG

Singapore has developed so quickly that the island's once-ubiquitous kampongs (villages) have all but disappeared. Just one remains on the main island as a blip of resistance against the tide of modernisation. Wonderfully rustic Lorong Buangkok is an evocative way to experience what life was like in Singapore before independence. Elders sit out on the verandahs of their crumbling wooden houses, stray cats snooze on corrugated-tin roofs, and the crowing of roosters drowns out the noise of traffic. The 26 remaining families who live here seem carefree and oblivious to the breakneck pace of life happening outside their rural oasis (the S$6 to S$30 monthly rent probably helps).

The area is slated for redevelopment, with plans for a major road, two schools and a neighbourhood park, but the Urban Redevelopment Authority has confirmed that this will not happen for a few decades. The 1.22-hectare area is small, so expect to spend just 30 minutes or so here. You can catch a taxi (best ask the driver to wait for you), or take the MRT to Ang Mo Kio station (North-South Line), then bus 88 in the direction of Pasir Ris.

Lorong Buangkok | DerekTeo/shutterstock ©

JOIN A GUIDED TOUR

Those keen to go deeper could join Let’s Go Tour Singapore (letsgotoursingapore.com/tours/kampong-experience/) on a guided wander through the kampong, listening to stories about provincial life and learning about the traditional village spirit.

Take a stroll around the neighbourhood with your local guide and get the chance to step inside one of the kampong houses and chat with local residents.

Scan this QR code to book your tour.

Singapore Zoo

ONE OF THE WORLD’S BEST ZOOS

Sprawled across 26 lush hectares on a peninsula jutting into the Seletar Reservoir, 50-year-old Singapore Zoo (mandai.com/en/singapore-zoo) is a tropical wonderland where 300 species of animal roam in spacious enclosures and across wide open spaces. It's been lauded as one of the best zoos in the world for its conservation and educational efforts.

Orangutans are the stars of the show: watch as they swing from tree to tree, or snap a photo with them during feeding sessions (11am and 3.30pm). You can have breakfast in their company at the zoo’s Ah Meng Restaurant (9am to 10:30am weekends and public holidays).

In the cool Reptile Garden you can meet Astove, an Aldabra giant tortoise who has lived here since 1989. You can even climb into the enclosure and get close enough to feel the scutes of the tortoises' shells and hand-feed them with fresh cherry tomatoes (S$8).

Kids can run free at the colourful Rainforest Kidzworld, with slides, swings and a carousel. Little ones can also ride ponies, feed farmyard animals and get wet in the water-play area. (Don’t forget to pack swimwear, sandals and a change of clothes.)

Take the MRT to Khatib (North-South Line) and catch the Mandai Shuttle (S$1 for adults and kids) from Exit A. Shuttles leave every 10 minutes and make two stops. Alternatively, stop at Springleaf MRT station (Thomson–East Coast Line) and continue on bus 138.

Orangutans, Singapore Zoo | Christopher Chan/Getty Images ©

DOUBLE THE FUN!

Singapore Zoo is one of four parks at Mandai Wildlife Reserve. If you’re planning to visit the other parks as well, you can save money with a ‘Park Hopper’ combined ticket.

Experience two parks for S$88/60 adult/child aged three to 12, or visit all four parks for S$118/90 adult/child. Tickets are valid for seven days from the date of the first park visit.

Scan this QR code to book your park tickets.

Night Safari

NOCTURNAL ADVENTURES

Singapore’s acclaimed Night Safari (mandai.com/en/night-safari) just west of the zoo offers a completely different type of nightlife. As its barriers melt away in the darkness, the park gives you the feeling of travelling through a jungle filled with lions, leopards and elephants. It's home to more than 130 species of animal.

Popular open-sided shuttle trams take visitors on a 45-minute tour (with commentary) of the park’s animals and habitats, but some parts of the park can only be explored on foot via the atmospheric walking trails. On the Leopard Trail you can get up close to wild spotted felines, porcupines and badgers. The Eastern Lodge Trail leads you to highly endangered species such as sloth bears, aardvarks and hyenas, while the new Tasmanian Devil Trail takes you through an owl aviary and enclosures where the Tasmanian devil and other animals from Australia, New Zealand and New Guinea live.

Kids will enjoy Creatures of the Night, an interactive 20-minute show featuring the otter, raccoon dog and bearded pig. Seating is unassigned, so arrive early to get a good spot. Shows are at 7pm and 9.30pm nightly, plus 10pm weekends and public holidays. To catch the last MRT train home, make sure you leave the park at around 10.45pm. Otherwise, the taxis out front will set you back about S$25 for a ride to the CBD.

Striped Hyena, Night Safari | Lauryn Ishak/Getty Images ©

DINING IN THE DARK

You won’t go hungry anywhere in Singapore, even at the Night Safari. The park’s Ulu Ulu Safari Restaurant opens at 5.30pm, offering a buffet spread and serving up à la carte items including local favourites such as chicken rice.

If you’re celebrating something special, you can enjoy a four-course meal in an elegant safari-style tipi tent at Evening in the Wild.

Bird Paradise

SPREAD YOUR WINGS

A sanctuary to more than 3500 feathery residents across 400 species, Bird Paradise is divided into eight walk-through aviaries that replicate habitats from across the world. The largest is the Heart of Africa, modelled on the forested valleys of continental Africa, and Penguin Cove has one of the world’s biggest sub-Antarctic, cold salt-water habitats.

In the Sky Amphitheater, birds of prey flaunt their skills at Predators on Wings, while pelicans and flamingos feature at Wings of the World. See mandai.com/en/bird-paradise for the schedule. Next to the Sky Amphitheatre are restaurants, a treetop playground and a kids’ water-play area.

Flamingo, Bird Paradise | SPARTANPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

River Wonders

GET WET AND WILD

Tucked between Singapore Zoo and the Night Safari, this compact river-themed wildlife park is a refuge for more than 11,000 land and aquatic animals. River Wonders (mandai.com/en/river-wonders) shines a spotlight on the underwater habitats of world-famous rivers, including the Nile, Yangtze and Congo.

The Mekong River section particularly impresses, with an aquarium rippling with giant catfish and freshwater stingrays. But the highlight of them all is the massive Amazon Flooded Forest, where manatees and gigantic arapaimas swim in a colossal corral. The Giant Panda Forest also draws quite the crowd.

You can’t leave the park without going on the Amazon River Quest Boat Ride (additional fee S$5/3 adult/child), which swooshes gently past roaming jaguars, tapirs and giant anteaters. Young kids must be at least 1.06cm tall to take the ride. (Note that it's suspended in the event of rain.) Don’t miss the Once Upon A River presentation (11.30am, 2.30pm and 4.30pm daily), headlined by the green iguana, capybara and agouti.

Baby Giant Panda, River Wonders | Danny Ye/shutterstock ©

MORE IN NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE

Rise & Shine at MacRitchie Reservoir

STROLL ABOVE THE TREE CANOPY

Right in the centre of Singapore, MacRitchie Reservoir is a lush green space carved around the massive Central Catchment Area. The nature reserve has six trails ranging from 3km to 11km, with the 11km loop around the reservoir the most popular route. The trails skirt the water’s edge and snake through the mature secondary rainforest, home to long-tailed macaques, colugos and huge monitor lizards. This is one of the best places in Singapore for wildlife-spotting. A word of warning, though: the macaques here can be aggressive – please don't feed or antagonise them.

MacRitchie’s biggest appeal is the TreeTop Walk, a free-standing, 250m-long suspension bridge that connects the two highest points in the reserve – Bukit Kalang and Bukit Peirce – giving an aerial view of the forest canopy from 25m above the ground. Entry is at the ranger station, reached via the Peirce Track. The TreeTop Walk closes on Mondays (except public holidays). A kilometre south, the thick foliage parts to unveil the Jelutong Tower, an eight-storey panoramic structure with spiralling stairs that lead to equally impressive canopy views.

To paddle in the glassy waters of the reservoir, you can rent kayaks from S$15 per hour at the Paddle Lodge (scf.org.sg). There’s a designated area close to shore for novice paddlers. Only kids aged seven and up can kayak with adults, but kids aged 10 to 12 can sign up for the Kid-in-a-Kayak programme organised by the Singapore Canoe Foundation.

BEST LOCAL EATS IN NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE

Jalan Kayu Thasevi Food

OG place that's been tossing up Singapore's best roti prata (Indian flat bread) and fish curry since the 1960s. $

Come Daily Fried Hokkien Prawn Mee

Awarded a Michelin Plate, this noodle stall in Toa Payoh West Food Center has a huge following. $

Cook House by Koufu

Well-designed food court at Waterway Point serving up local dishes such as roast-pork noodles. $

Uncle Leong Seafood (Punggol)

Feast on the island’s most-loved chilli crabs at this riverside restaurant. $$

WHERE TO STAY IN NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE

Glamping in the Wild – Singapore Zoo

Sleep in luxurious domed tents by the lake and have breakfast with orangutans. $$$

Orchid Country Club

Slick, modern rooms with blissful views of the golf course and the Lower Seletar Reservoir. $$

The Guesthouse

Retreat to this oasis at the Swiss Club, a short walk from the Bukit Timah nature reserves. $$

Aviation-Themed Fun at Seletar Aerospace Park

VEER OFF THE BEATEN PATH

East of Mandai Wildlife Reserve, the little-visited Seletar countryside is something of a local secret. But this cloister of colonial buildings, boardwalk and wide green space is a great area for a family day out or a low-key date night.

During the colonial days, the British developed the Seletar area to build a Royal Air Force station that served Singapore from 1928 to 1971. To house officers and their families, they also erected a cluster of black-and-white bungalows, with the help of Samsui women (female Chinese immigrants who took on construction jobs). Today, the area is mostly dominated by the tiny Seletar Airport, which serves chartered flights and provides training sessions.

Today, 32 of the former colonial houses have been given a facelift and transformed into an assembly of restaurants, spas and shops called The Oval. Wheeler’s Estate (wheelersestate.com) has a stunning green lawn overlooking an aviation-themed playground. Grab some mats and enjoy brunch outdoors, or head upstairs to The Verandah to enjoy Australian fare in a gorgeous minimalist setting. Nearby, Wildseed Café at The Summerhouse (thesummerhouse.sg) is a dog-friendly option, slinging freshly roasted coffee, tempting cakes and pastries, and hearty weekend brunches.

On the fringes of Seletar Aerospace Park is a wooden boardwalk (near Hyde Park Gate) that runs parallel to the airport. Dotted with little wooden benches shaped like origami paper planes, this manicured walkway is a lovely spot to watch private jets take off, particularly at sunset. Strolling eastwards will lead you to the newly opened Hampstead Wetlands Park, an inviting marshland area studded with observation decks for birdwatching. The boardwalk takes you along the rim of the water-lily lake, where you can often spot kingfishers and barbets.

Playground, Seletar Aerospace Park | Dr David Sing/shutterstock ©

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE

SAFRA Yishun

Challenge yourself to go to great heights at the Canopy Sky Walker, where you’ll be hoisted up 15m to 18m to clear four tiers of obstacles.

HomeTeamNS Khatib

One of Singapore’s largest adventure hubs, this recreation centre is equipped with a massive climbing wall, an obstacle course, an outdoor pool and more!

Passion Wave Sembawang

Offers all kinds of watersports, from kayaking to dragon boating, sailing, windsurfing and stand-up paddleboarding.

CHANGI AIRPORT

Aviation geeks who enjoyed watching the planes take off at Seletar should make time to linger at Changi Airport. Besides a dizzying array of shops and restaurants, the airport also boasts the world’s tallest indoor waterfall, the Rain Vortex.

BEST RESTAURANTS IN NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE

Wheeler’s Estate

Casual dining and Australian fare in a gorgeous colonial building at Seletar Aerospace Park. $$$

Canopy Bishan

Surrounded by lush gardens, this spot in Bishan Park makes you feel like you’re brunching in a glasshouse. $$

Mellben Seafood

Widely considered the best crab in town. Signature dishes include claypot crab been hoon (rice vermicelli noodles). $$

Relax in Sembawang Hot Spring

BUBBLING GOODNESS

It comes as a surprise to many that a hot spring exists in Singapore, an island famously sheltered from tectonic activity. Discovered in 1909, the Sembawang hot spring became popular with locals, who believed the water was curative and therapeutic. In 1922 soft-drink giant Fraser & Neave took over the spring and bottled its water. During WWII, the Japanese converted the site into thermal onsen baths, but a bomb fell on the area and caused the spring to fall into disuse. It was eventually restored in the early 1960s.

Following appeals from the public to preserve the spring, the government kept it open and later transformed it into Sembawang Hot Spring Park, which opened in January 2020. The spring now features a cascading pool where the hot water that is drawn up directly from the ground (at a sizzling 70°C) cools down naturally to a balmy 40°C in the lower tier. The highlight is the bottommost pool, where you can sit and soak your feet. Leave your swimsuit at home – you’re only allowed to dip your feet in!

Locals love to bring their own eggs to cook them at the egg station. Grab one of the pails provided, place your eggs in it and let the steaming water work its magic. Don’t forget to bring your own eggs, bowls and spoons. The on-site glasshouse cafe serves surprisingly good home-cooked dishes such as buttercream chicken.

Sembawang Hot Spring | kandl stock/shutterstock ©

WHERE TO COOL OFF IN NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE

SAFRA Yishun

All of this facility’s pools are connected by wet linkways, running from the full-size lap pool to the pirate-themed kids’ pool with slide.

Sengkang Pool

This public pool offers great respite on a sizzling day, with eight water slides, two Olympic-size pools and a hot tub.

SAFRA Punggol

Spanning 2100 sq metres, this indoor water-play area has eight decks, five slides and an Enchanted Deep Sea–themed playground.

BEST BARS IN NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE

Sixteen Ounces Bar & Kitchen

Atmospheric bar at the Rail Mall serving craft beer and hearty meals. $$

YOUNGS Bar & Restaurant

Idyllic spot for a pint of Erdinger and modern European dishes on a lazy Sunday afternoon. $$

Nelson Bar

Venerable Nelson Bar has retained its history through sailors' old pictures and scribbles on its walls. $$

Head into the Toa Payoh Heartland

TEMPLES AND MEMORIAL HALLS

To see the real Singapore, you’ll need to come to the heartland. Toa Payoh particularly encapsulates the Singaporean spirit with its legion of temples and nostalgic landmarks. One of the oldest neighbourhoods in the city, Toa Payoh was originally a large marshland (toa payoh translates to ‘big swamp’ in Hokkien), then a squatter district that became notorious for crime. Following the government’s efforts to develop Toa Payoh into a residential town, the vice district was cleaned up and squatters were moved out. Today, the neighbourhood is one of Singapore's most storied residential areas.

A great spot to start exploring is Lian Shuang Lin Monastery, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Singapore. Established in 1898, this antiquated monastery was constructed to resemble the Xi Chang Shi temple in Fuzhou, China. Two majestic gates frame the entrance, while further to the right is a seven-storey pagoda adorned with carvings. Inside the complex, shaded pathways lead from bonsai-filled courtyards to the monastery’s three main halls, of which Mahavira Hall is the most spectacular. Today, working monks still live in the rear halls.

To the left of the monastery stands the weathered Cheng Huang Temple (shuanglin.sg), dedicated to the Town God, administrator of justice in the netherworld. The main hall was built in 1912, and its thick beams are stained from decades of incense smoke. The monastery and temple are a 1km walk east of Toa Payoh MRT station.

Across the highway is another major monument, the Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall (sysnmh.org.sg), dedicated to the first provisional president of China. Built in the 1880s, this national monument was the headquarters of Dr Sun Yat Sen’s Chinese Revolutionary Alliance in Southeast Asia, which led to the overthrow of the Qing dynasty and the creation of the first Chinese republic. Dr Sun Yat Sen briefly stayed in this house while touring Asia to whip up support for the cause. It’s a fine example of a colonial Victorian villa and houses a museum with items pertaining to Dr Sun’s life and work.

OTHER LOCALES IN NORTHERN & CENTRAL SINGAPORE

Woodlands

Located at Singapore's northern tip, this is where you go to cross the causeway to Malaysia.

Ang Mo Kio

This lively neighbourhood is anchored by a vibrant mall and transport terminal.

Punggol

The focal point for new housing projects, this area is constantly expanding, with buildings and malls popping up by the minute.

Bukit Timah

Surrounded by verdant reserves, Bukit Timah occupies a prime location and has some of Singapore’s most expensive real estate.

Holland Village, Botanic Gardens & Dempsey Hill

THEMED GARDENS AND UPSCALE NEIGHBOURHOODS

It’s hard to believe a calm patch of greenery and small enclaves of indie boutiques, organic shops and gourmet restaurants exist in such close proximity to Singapore’s edgy, fast-paced city centre – but here they are.

Singapore Botanic Garden | Pumidol/shutterstock ©

The star of the show in this part of the island is the Singapore Botanic Gardens with its collage of orchid displays, butterfly sanctuaries and al fresco cafes. Be sure to set aside half a day to fully explore the inviting spaces of this verdant hideaway.

After an interval outdoors at the gardens, hop over to the cute cafes and gourmet delis in nearby Dempsey Hill. The leafy area has a booty of small, independent delicatessens, well-stocked grocers and atmospheric antique shops that offer a refreshing change of pace from the high-energy, massive malls in the nearby shopping ground zero of Orchard Rd. PS. Cafe will tempt you to linger with its inviting gardens and comfort food, while Michelin-starred Candlenut entices with more sophisticated, creative concoctions.

Come evening, head to lively Holland Village to wine and dine with a glossy expat crowd. And it’s not just the expats who lap up the international food offerings in Holland Village – you can follow well-heeled Singaporeans through the doors of lively jazz bars and low-key pubs to indulge in craft beers and frosty cocktails. Holland Village is also fast becoming an incubator for local talents, as several up-and-coming fashion designers and chefs have set up shop in this neighbourhood. A handful of art and antique shops here appeal to those who prefer small-scale, family-run stores to massive malls.

In the vicinity is one-north district, Singapore’s new research and technology hub. Its futuristic buildings house research centres, business offices, unique cafes and slick restaurants. Drop in at the graffiti-laden Timbre+ food hall for Singaporean fare and live music.

Singapore Botanic Garden | justhavealook/Getty Images ©

DON’T MISS

SINGAPORE BOTANIC GARDENS

Enjoy a picnic on the manicured lawns or wander the ancient rainforest and themed gardens at this velvety retreat in Singapore’s city centre.

DEMPSEY HILL

A treasure trove of independent shops, leafy cafes and antique stores gives this tranquil hill station plenty of character and charm.

HOLLAND VILLAGE

This upmarket neighbourhood has an eclectic collection of live-music joints and international restaurants.

TOP SIGHTS

1  Singapore Botanic Gardens

SIGHTS

2  Heritage Museum

3  Museum of Ice Cream

EATING

4  Candlenut

5  Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar

6  Open Farm Community

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

7  PS Cafe Harding Road

8  SPRMRKT

SHOPPING

9  Ah Di Dempsey Durian

10  Dover Street Market

11  Terra Madre

TOP TIP

The Singapore Botanic Gardens might look like a small patch of greenery on the map, but it spreads across 81 hectares. Plan your route in advance and prepare to spend at least an afternoon here, as it takes time to walk from one area to another.

I LIVE HERE: TOP SPOTS IN HOLLAND VILLAGE & DEMPSEY HILL

Ashley Lim, a senior financial services manager with Prudential, shares his go-to places in this part of Singapore.

SPRMRKT

With a delectable menu of eggs, smoothie bowls and wagyu-beef bowls, this is my favourite spot in Dempsey Hill for brunch.

Ah Di Dempsey Durian

This humble durian stand is known for its medley of top-quality durians, which can be vacuum packed for you to bring home.

Cluny Court

Oozing weekend vibes, this colonial-style building holds an arsenal of cafes, boutiques and home-decor stores.

Adam Road Food Centre

One of Singapore’s best hawker centres, this is my favourite place for Malay dishes such as nasi lemak (coconut rice with fried anchovies).

Dempsey Hill

HILL STATION TURNED EXPAT ENCLAVE

A former colonial hill station, Dempsey Hill (dempseyhill.com) is smothered in tropical foliage and studded with high-end nosh spots and moody antique stores that appeal mostly to expats and moneyed Singaporeans. Compared to neighbouring expat staple Holland Village, Dempsey is more upmarket and low-key. The location is less city residential and more tucked in the woods – this was once an army barracks, after all.

Previously known as Tanglin Barracks, Dempsey Hill was one of the first British Army barracks constructed in Singapore, built in 1861. Soldiers were housed in spacious, elevated wooden structures topped with thatched attap (sugar-palm) roofs. Among the barracks’ amenities were hospital wards, washhouses, kitchens, a library, a school and office quarters. The barracks served as the headquarters of the Ministry of Defence between 1972 and 1989, before their current reinvention as an upscale brunch and dining area.

Founded by celebrated New York chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar (comodempsey.sg) has a stunning white-and-black colour scheme and delivers a mind-blowing menu headlined by its signature egg caviar and spice-crusted snapper. Nearby, at Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant Candlenut (comodempsey.sg/restaurant/candlenut), Singaporean chef Malcolm Lee serves a mix of traditional and contemporary Chinese-Malay dishes. If you’re here for brunch, don’t miss the hearty and photogenic Morocco miracle stack (couscous with smoked eggplants and spice-infused tomatoes) at the lush PS. Cafe Harding Rd (pscafe.com). It doesn’t take bookings for weekend brunch, so head in before 9am to avoid the longest queues.

Dempsey Hil | huntergol hp/shutterstock ©

WHERE TO SHOP IN DEMPSEY HILL

Bungalow 55

Australian stylist Nina Beale champions the jungalow look (a plant-focused decorating style) with eclectic home accessories and furniture. $$$

Dover Street Market

Founded by Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo and her husband, this concept store is stocked with luxury fashion brands and streetwear labels. $$$

EM Gallery

Japanese designer Emiko Nakamura collaborates with hill tribes in northern Laos to create naturally dyed hand-woven handicrafts, such as bags and cushions. $$

Terra Madre

A store and restaurant with Singapore's largest collection of natural and organic foods, including plenty of vegan-friendly options. $$

BEST RESTAURANTS IN DEMPSEY HILL

Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar

Led by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, this restaurant serves to-die-for food amid striking interior design. $$$

Candlenut

This Michelin-star spot is where Singaporeans bring out-of-towners for a decadent local meal. $$$

Open Farm Community

Farm-to-table pioneer serving modern European cuisine using the freshest ingredients. $$$

TOP SIGHT

Singapore Botanic Gardens

The country’s first Unesco World Heritage Site, the Singapore Botanic Gardens have been a major centre for plant conservation and research in Southeast Asia since 1875. The gardens offer more than just a refreshing burst of greenery amid the bustling city – they’re a ravishing sprawl of ancient rainforests, themed gardens, rare orchids, free concerts and alfresco gourmet spots.

National Orchid Garden | Marco Bicci/shutterstock ©

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this code to download a map of the gardens at nparks.gov.sg/sbg.

National Orchid Garden

Orchids have been bred and cultivated in the National Orchid Garden ($15/free adult/child) since 1928. The 3-hectare space is a showcase of more than 1000 species and 2000 hybrids, around 600 of which are on display at any time. Descend into the futuristic glass-walled Tropical Montane Orchidetum, which simulates the climate in a mountainous forest, before ducking inside the Tan Hoon Siang Mist House, a paleotropical garden with highlands conditions.

PRACTICALITIES

The gardens are open from 5am to midnight daily. Entry is free, except for the Orchid Garden. Botanic Gardens MRT station (Circle Line) is close to the Bukit Timah Gate, near the Children’s Garden. For the Orchid Gardens, enter through the Tanglin Gate from Napier MRT station (Thomson–East Coast Line). It’s an eight-minute walk from Farrer Road MRT (Circle Line) to the Woollerton Gate, near Como Adventure Grove.

Ginger Garden

Located next to the Orchid Garden, the 1-hectare Ginger Garden is the cosy habitat for more than 250 members of the Zingiberaceae family. This themed garden also has a sublime waterfall that hides a secret cave and a tranquil pool brimming with Amazon water lilies. Take a break in The Halia (thehalia.com), a gorgeous ginger-centric restaurant.

Symphony Lake

More than 200 species of palm tree are speckled across the wide, manicured slopes of Palm Valley. A stage rises from the midst of it all, floating above Symphony Lake like an islet in the water. This is where many free concerts, including the Singapore Symphony Orchestra's monthly SSO in the Park event (sso.org.sg), are held. Occasional free movie screenings take place on the slopes of Palm Valley.

Learning Forest

Hit the elevated walkways of the Learning Forest, the gardens' newest habitat, to explore environments ranging from a freshwater forest wetland to a lowland rainforest. Walk in the shadow of some of the tallest trees in Asia at the Walk of Giants, sprawl out on the spider-mesh net of the 8m-high Canopy Web, or stroll along the boardwalks alongside the marsh at the Keppel Discovery Wetlands.

TOP TIPS

• The best time to visit the Botanical Gardens is early in the morning, when the temperature is mild.

• There's shade in most parts of the gardens – but it's still wise to bring a sunhat, sunscreen and plenty of water.

• Watch out for wildlife, especially monitor lizards. Keep a distance and make sure not to feed them.

• Check the gardens website (nparks.gov.sg/sbg) for a schedule of upcoming concerts, which are staged for free by the Symphony Lake.

• The gardens run free guided tours every Saturday (except for the fifth Saturday of the month). Register at the service desk.

Heritage Museum

If the heat is too overwhelming, head indoors to the 240-sq-metre Heritage Museum, located in Holttum Hall, and browse multimedia exhibits that detail the Gardens' rich heritage. The old photographs, artefacts, plant specimens and rare botanical books that date back to the early 19th century give a fascinating look into the past. The museum is closed on the last Monday of each month.

DON’T MISS

National Orchid Garden

Ginger Garden

Symphony Lake

Heritage Museum

Learning Forest

Como Adventure Grove

Pangium

A Children’s World

Those with little ones shouldn’t miss the Jacob Ballas Children’s Garden at the northern end of the gardens. The kid-centric green space has nature-themed interactive zones including a sensory garden. Thrill-seekers will love the suspension bridge, treehouse and floating platform. After sweating it out, tiny tots can cool off in the brightly coloured water-play feature.

At the western end of the gardens, the new Como Adventure Grove centres on a 10m banyan tree–like structure with climbing ropes, hammocks and a lookout point for children to climb and swing from. There are two swings, a mini obstacle course and climbing structure shaped like a jackfruit.

Near Como Adventure Grove is chic Pangium (restaurantpangium.sg). Helmed by Singaporean chef Malcolm Lee, this contemporary restaurant showcases elevated Straits cuisine. For more affordable grub, head across the road from the gardens’ northern entrance to the Adam Road Food Centre, lauded as one of the best hawker centres on the island.

EATING

1  2am: dessertbar

2  363 Katong Laksa

3  Black Marble by Otto

4  Craftsmen Coffee

5  Haakon Superfoods

6  Tai Cheong Bakery

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

7  Tango’s

8  Wala Wala Cafe Bar

SHOPPING

9  Atelier Ong Shunmugam

10  Bynd Artisan

11  Cluny Court

12  Lim’s Holland Village

13  Our Second Nature

Holland Village

ALTERNATIVE ART AND NIGHTLIFE SCENE

West of Dempsey Hill is Holland Village, an expat-heavy district swelling with international restaurants, buzzing bars and art shops. Lorong Mambong, the artery that cuts through Holland Village, is pedestrianised in the evenings and flanked by lively eateries and pubs. With attractive happy-hour specials, the bars here draw throngs of workers keen to let their hair down after the day is done.

A hot favourite, Wala Wala Cafe Bar (walawala.sg) is perennially packed at weekends. It’s been around for ages but continues to pull in beer lovers with its beer towers and large sports screens. Neighbouring Tango’s (tangos.com.sg) is a big hit with the after-work crowd thanks to great pint deals and comforting bar food.

During the day, Holland Village draws quite a different crowd: the area is a magnet for expats seeking art, handicrafts and offbeat fashion. The sublime Bynd Artisan (byndartisan.com) offers a range of bespoke stationery, leather and jewellery – you can even sign up for a workshop and learn how to customise your own products. The nearby Singaporean boutique Our Second Nature (oursecondnature.com) specialises in light, flowy everyday wear, with each piece telling a story through unique prints designed in-house. On the same street, Atelier Ong Shunmugam (ongshunmugam.com) is the gallery-esque shop of Priscilla Shunmugam, one of Singapore’s top up-and-coming designers.

Holland Village | Jayne Lloyd/Alamy Stock Photo ©

GETTING AROUND

Singapore Botanic Gardens, Holland Village and one-north have their own MRT stations on the Circle Line, and Queenstown has a station on the East-West Line. Dempsey Hill is the only place not connected to the MRT. You can walk there from the Singapore Botanic Gardens or catch a bus (7, 75, 77, 105, 106, 123 or 174) from behind Orchard MRT, on Orchard Blvd. A taxi costs just S$10 to S$15 from the CBD.

WHERE TO EAT IN HOLLAND VILLAGE

Tango’s

Lively bar with great drink promos and a menu featuring cheese platters, ribs and steak. $$

Tai Cheong Bakery

A slice of Hong Kong in Singapore, serving hot bolo buns and egg tarts straight from the oven. $$

363 Katong Laksa

One of the best places to sample laksa (rice noodles in spicy coconut-milk broth). $

WHERE TO SHOP IN HOLLAND VILLAGE

Lim’s Holland Village

This interior store is overflowing with Asian-inspired homewares and furniture, from Chinese wedding cabinets to ginger-jar lamps.

Bynd Artisan

Browse the vast range of bespoke stationery, leather and jewellery here, or book a session to create your own custom design.

Our Second Nature

A Singaporean-owned boutique known for comfortable, light everyday wear.

Atelier Ong Shunmugam

Get unique, tailor-made pieces at this shop owned by rising star Priscilla Shunmugam.

WHERE TO EAT IN HOLLAND VILLAGE

Black Marble by Otto

Grilled-to-perfection meat from dry-aged ribeye to grilled lamb rack served with confit garlic. $$$

Craftsmen Coffee

Home-brewed gourmet beans, plus delectable brunches with loaded waffles and croissant sandwiches. $

Haakon Superfoods

Nourish body and soul with açai bowls and nutritious poke bowls at this Nordic-inspired cafe. $$

MORE IN HOLLAND VILLAGE, BOTANIC GARDENS & DEMPSEY HILL

Go Gaga at the Museum of Ice Cream

UNLEASH THE KID IN YOU

With psychedelic pink interiors and a massive sprinkle pool, the Museum of Ice Cream (museumoficecream.com/singapore) is a dessert-themed wonderland offering a multisensory adventure for snap-hungry travellers. What’s inside isn’t really a museum at all but 14 installations that encourage visitors to reimagine what they think about ice cream. The museum first opened as a pop-up in Manhattan in 2016 and has since launched in various locations, including Austin, Chicago and Singapore. Unlike its counterparts, this particular MOIC pays tribute to Singaporean culture through installations such as The Scoop, a homage to the classic dragon playgrounds that dotted housing estates in the 1970s.

A visit is like entering Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory – you get to play with fun, interactive displays, dive into the largest sprinkle pool in Asia, and enjoy unlimited ice cream! The flavours are truly unique, from lychee bandung (a pink rose-syrup drink) to pink-coconut and pulut hitam (black glutinous rice). Don’t expect a trip here to be educational; it’s simply a celebration of unbridled playtime for both grown-ups and little ones.

Museum of Ice Cream | HOW HWEE YOUNG/EPA-EFE/Shutterstock ©

LATE-NIGHT CRAVINGS

2am: dessertbar (2amdessertbar.com) has a progressive take on desserts. The sexy, atmospheric space impresses with an entourage of sweet showstoppers, including mango-coconut panna cotta, pandan kaya ice cream with pistachio sponge, and blackberry-sumac parfait atop a lavender marshmallow. The mastermind behind this creative joint is the lauded Janice Wong, World Gourmet Summit Awards’ Pastry Chef of the Year in 2011, 2013 and 2015.

Get to Know Queenstown

THE QUEEN OF SINGAPORE’S ESTATES

Just south of Dempsey Hill, the quiet residential district of Queenstown was the first satellite town in Singapore. A pioneering Housing Development Board (HDB) estate was built here in 1951 and named after Queen Elizabeth II to mark her coronation. Formerly a swampy valley, Queenstown used to be home to Hokkien, Teochew and Hakka settlers. When HDB set its sights here, the swamps were cleared and the settlers were moved on before the area was developed into what it is today.

A contemporary generation of housing projects is injecting new life into Singapore’s oldest HDB town. The SkyVille @ Dawson and SkyTerrace @ Dawson are part of HDB’s plans to give the neighbourhood a fresher, more contemporary look. The 47th-floor rooftop garden on the ultra-modern Skyville is open to the public and free to enter. Ride the elevator straight up to the top floor and drink in the gobsmacking views from the rooftop. The tranquil garden has plenty of benches and sheltered spots, as well as murals by comic artist Troy Chin depicting Queenstown's heritage.

Thankfully, not all of Queenstown’s old buildings were demolished when HDB moved in: some black-and-white British colonial houses can still be seen in the Wessex Estate. These blocks of low-rise apartments and semi-detached houses previously occupied by British officers and soldiers are now mostly residential, with some transformed into studio spaces for artists. The canteen for the British Army has been reimagined as a quirky old-school kopitiam (coffee house). Colbar, short for ‘Colonial Bar’, has been a local favourite for years and continues to serve an appealing array of Western and Asian dishes and British beers.

Next to Colbar is the edgy pop-up Restaurant Focal (restaurantfocal.sg), the brainchild of chef Tan Ken Loon of well-regarded Gillman Barracks restaurant the Naked Finn. In this sexy, all-black space, Tan has sought to create a platform for talented young chefs under the age of 30 to hone their talent and flaunt their skills. Each month a different chef creates a multicourse menu for those lucky enough to nab a table here. Further north, on Portdown Rd, is the ridiculously charming Under Der Linden (underderlinden.com.sg), a pet-friendly cafe-restaurant with floral archways and neutral, pastel shades. This botanical cafe, like the other branches in Singapore, is inspired by medieval German lyrical poet Walther von der Vogelweide, whose poetry is etched onto the cafe’s interior and walls.

To the southeast of Wessex Estate, the old-fashioned Queensway Shopping Centre doesn’t quite fit into the modern cityscape of Singapore, but it holds precious memories for Singaporeans who grew up during its heyday. Since the 1970s, Queensway has always been the go-to place for affordable sporting goods – it may not have the latest models, but it always promises the best deals on running shoes and sneakers.

BEST LOCAL EATS IN QUEENSTOWN

Keng Eng Kee Seafood

Seafood joint with a loyal following for local specialties such as crispy prawn rolls and black-bean fishhead. $$

Depot Road Zhen Shan Mei Claypot Laksa

In Alexandra Road Food Village, this hawker stand has won a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its sizzling bowls of laksa (noodles in spicy coconut-milk broth). $

Durian Lab Cafe

Singapore’s favourite fruit, the durian, takes centre stage at this dessert cafe, featuring on everything from fluffy tarts to cheesecakes. $

Colbar

An unconventional kopitiam (coffee house) offering a slew of Asian-Western comfort food. $$

BRITISH COLONIAL HOUSES

If you enjoyed Wessex Estate, make time for Seletar Aerospace Park, another area studded with black-and-white jungalows built by the British and now converted into beautiful restaurants and brunch spots.

SIGHTS

1  Museum of Ice Cream

2  one-north

3  Shipping Container Hotel

4  SkyTerrace @ Dawson

5  SkyVille @ Dawson

6  Wessex Estate

EATING

7  ABC Brickworks Food Centre

8  Casa Pietrasanta

see 13  Ce Soir

9  Depot Road Zhen Shan Mei Claypot Laksa

10  Keng Eng Kee Seafood

11  Restaurant focal

12  Timbre+

13  Under Der Linden

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

14  Bread Yard

15  Colbar

16  Durian Lab Cafe

17  Dutch Colony Coffee Co.

18  Jimmy Monkey Cafe

SHOPPING

19  Queensway Shopping Centre

20  Terra Madre

Step into the Future at one-north

HIGH-TECH RESEARCH HUB

Stretching across the western edge of Queenstown, one-north is Singapore’s newest hub for research and technology. Named to reflect Singapore’s geographical location (just one degree north of the equator), this high-tech business park is packed with futuristic edifices housing research centres, tech start-ups and global brands. The buildings are grouped in clusters, featuring sci-fi names such as Biopolis, Fusionopolis and Mediapolis.

But it’s not just business at one-north, which has evolved into a mini city of its own as cafes, gyms and supermarkets have sprouted all over its grounds. Standing out from the crowd is Timbre+ (timbreplus.sg), an industrial-chic food park located within the JTC LaunchPad. Snap photos of the grungy graffiti art that adorns the walls and sample affordable local fare and international grub, all while enjoying live music (it starts daily at 8.30pm). Around the corner, you’ll find the Shipping Container Hotel (tinypod.com), a cluster of containers converted into minimalistic sleeping pods. The double suite, Container No. 4, features an exterior completely covered in mirrors that reflect its surroundings, making it seem invisible!

Across Ayer Rajah Ave, Fusionopolis brims with even more eating outlets. For a light snack, head to Bread Yard (breadyard.com.sg), an artisanal bakery offering fresh-out-of-the-oven sourdough and flaky matcha cruffins. Dutch Colony Coffee Co. (dutchcolony.sg) roasts its coffee in-house and serves it with an assortment of hearty all-day breakfast items. If you’re looking to fill up, Casa Pietrasanta (casapietrasanta.com) – a modern Italian joint founded by two brothers from Tuscany – promises authentic pasta dishes and flavourful risottos.

Office building, one-north | Justin Adam Lee/shutterstock ©

BEST PLACES TO EAT AT ONE-NORTH

Timbre+

An upgraded food centre with affordable international food and local eats, plus nightly live-music performances. $

Casa Pietrasanta

Indulge in freshly made pasta and authentic dishes at this contemporary Italian-owned restaurant. $$$

Jimmy Monkey Cafe

Get a taste of Melbourne cafe culture at this coffeehouse, known for its all-day brunch options and popular coffee blends. $$

Dutch Colony Coffee Co.

Sip on third-wave coffee at this artisanal cafe and treat yourself to hearty breakfast toasts and bagels. $$

West & Southwest Singapore

WILD WONDERS

Despite modernisation and Singapore’s reputation as a manicured Garden City, pockets of wild terrain can still be found in the west and southwest of the island. Home to some of the country’s best nature reserves for hiking and wildlife spotting, this region is an underrated gem.

Henderson Wave | Baworn47/shutterstock ©

Historically, the area witnessed some of the fiercest battles during WWII’s Japanese invasion, as poignant memorials attest.

The bulk of Singapore’s early development stemmed from the port and trade in the south, and gradually spread to the rest of the country as the population grew. Industrialisation was slow to reach the west, and even by the early 20th century this part of Singapore was mostly swathed in cash-crop plantations, swampy marshland and hills covered in dense forest. It was a world apart from the urbanisation downtown.

Things changed in the 1970s when a newly independent Singapore ramped up its economic ambitions and cleared away much of the greenery to make way for industry. More space was needed for the residential neighbourhoods that sprang up as more people moved closer to their workplaces. Land was reclaimed and the coastlines were pushed back to make room for burgeoning ports and factories, and even the offshore islands were transformed into centres of heavy industry.

Today, Singapore’s western district is the largest manufacturing hub in the country, with an expanding population as more government-owned high-rise housing blocks and amenities are added. There’s a master plan to improve the region’s transportation infrastructure, and Jurong, the hub of the west, is poised to be transformed into a second Central Business District in the coming years.

The sights in western Singapore may not be as renowned as those in the downtown districts, but visitors with time to spare and a love of nature will be rewarded with an unexpected counterpoint to built-up, metropolitan Singapore.

Dragons, Haw Par Villa | Sivakumar Sathiamoorthy/Getty Images ©

DON’T MISS

SOUTHERN RIDGES

This 10km trail from Kent Ridge to Harbourfront offers spectacular nature and city views.

SUNGEI BULOH NATURE RESERVE

Singapore’s first Asean Heritage Park is a haven for mangrove biodiversity and migrating birds.

HAW PAR VILLA

Offbeat park with quirky sculptures and life-size dioramas about Chinese ethics and stories.

TOP SIGHTS

1  Haw Par Villa

2  Sungei Buloh Nature Reserve

SIGHTS

3  Alexandra Arch

4  Bee Amazed Garden

5  Bollywood Farms

6  Bukit Timah Nature Reserve

7  Dairy Farm Nature Reserve

see 12  Fort Pasir Panjang

8  Hay Dairies

see 1  Hell’s Museum

9  Henderson Waves

10  Jurong Lake Gardens

11  Kranji Marshes

see 17  Kranji War Memorial

12  Labrador Nature Reserve

see 14  Lee Kong Chian Natural History Museum

13  Mt Faber

14  National University Of Singapore (NUS)

see 14  NUS Museum

15  Qianhu Fish Farm

16  Science Centre Singapore

17  Singapore State Cemetery

18  Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle

ACTIVITIES

19  Jurong East Swimming Complex

EATING

20  Clementi 448 Food Centre

21  Naked Finn

22  Yuhua Village Food Centre

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

23  Brass Lion Distillery

24  Tiger Brewery

TOP TIP

Singapore’s west and southwest cover a fairly large area – you’ll need a few days to comfortably explore. Not all sights are conveniently reached by public transport, so it works best to visit sights grouped by location to minimise the time spent travelling from the downtown core.

I LIVE HERE: SECRET SIDES OF SINGAPORE

Jerome Lim, heritage enthusiast and co-author of Secret Singapore, shares some of his favourite hidden finds in the west. thelongnwindingroad.wordpress.com

Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle

This is one of two surviving dragon kilns, and firings are always a treat. The welcoming Tan family now supports a community of potters.

Rail Corridor

This former railway line offers a walk on the wild side. I recommend starting at an accessible and Instagrammable railway tunnel under Clementi Rd.

Mount Faber

The Southern Ridges are a great hike but were once a key WWII battleground. Mt Faber is home to a mystical 16th-century grave, a lone Japanese grave and the picturesque lost reservoir.

SOUTHERN RIDGES WALKING TOUR

Spend a day walking this scenic 10km route or pick some favourite sections to explore. Start at 1 Kent Ridge Park, where an elevated canopy walk offers a bird’s-eye view and links to 2 Reflections at Bukit Chandu, a small WWII museum in a restored colonial house. Continue to 3 HortPark, with themed floral gardens, playgrounds and the prototype glasshouses that led to the cooled conservatories at Gardens by the Bay. Detour south past the 4 Gillman Barracks, a former military cluster that now houses contemporary-art galleries. Just after Labrador Park MRT station is the 5 Berlayer Creek Boardwalk, which winds through the mangrove forests towards the coast. This forested area is the 6 Labrador Nature Reserve, home to Singapore’s only protected rock-shore coastline, with preserved navigational markers and wartime relics. Double back to HortPark and cross the leaf-like 7 Alexandra Arch. Past the bridge is another canopy-level 8 Forest Walk for bird-watchers that connects to 9 Telok Blangah Hill Park, best known for its picturesque Terrace Garden. Grab a bite at restored colonial bungalow the 10 Alkaff Mansion or keep going to admire the rare towering trees at the Forest of Giants. It’s a short walk to one of the Southern Ridges’ highlights across Henderson Rd: the undulating sculptural wonder of the 36m 11 Henderson Waves, the highest pedestrian bridge in Singapore. On the other side of the bridge is 12 Faber Point, one of Singapore’s oldest parks, with panoramic views of the southern coastline from 13 Mount Faber. From here, you can go downhill via the 14 Marang Trail to unwind at 15 VivoCity Shopping Centre – or hop on the cable car at Faber Peak and soar over to Sentosa Island across the channel.

View from Alexandra Arch | BlueSparks/shutterstock ©

MORE IN WEST & SOUTHWEST SINGAPORE

Experience Singapore’s Weirdest Theme Park

DIORAMAS OF CHINESE FOLKLORE

Haw Par Villa belonged to Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, sons of the man who created the now famous medicinal salve Tiger Balm. Originally known as the Tiger Balm Gardens, the villa's park reflects the family’s love for Chinese culture and depicts many famous Chinese tales and ethics in some very detailed and fanciful dioramas – the half-animal sculptures are particularly bizarre.

The park is free to enter except for the newly refurbished Hell’s Museum ($18/10 adult/child). This encompasses the infamously gruesome Ten Courts of Hell exhibit, a dark walkthrough depicting the gory tortures awaiting sinners when they die.

Haw Par Villa | simon_photos/Getty Images ©

RESTAURANTS WORTH CHECKING OUT

Keng Eng Kee (KEK) Seafood

With multiple Michelin Plate accolades and a Netflix feature, this family-run restaurant serves up hearty Chinese zi char (family-style) dishes in a casual setting. $$

Naked Finn

Natural flavours with minimal seasoning shine through at this contemporary seafood restaurant tucked amid the art galleries in Gillman Barracks. $$$

Ce Soir

Flowers, fantasy and fine dining come together at this French restaurant housed in a charming black-and-white colonial bungalow along Portsdown Rd. $$$

BEST NIGHT VIEWS IN SINGAPORE

Southern Ridges

Illuminated LED lights along the Henderson Waves and Alexandra Arch bridges every evening after 7pm.

Mount Faber

Take in Singapore’s southern waterfront aboard the cable car from Mt Faber to Sentosa Island.

Labrador Nature Reserve

Stunning spot for sweeping sunsets and the twinkling lights of Sentosa island across the water.

Go Back to School

HIDDEN-GEM MUSEUMS ON CAMPUS

The National University of Singapore campus is home to two underrated museums. The grassy, boulder-like building that houses the Lee Kong Chian Natural History Museum displays over a million specimens showcasing the biodiversity of Southeast Asia and Singapore, and has a historical collection dating back to the 19th century. It’s a high-tech, family-friendly museum with lots of interactive elements. Be sure to say hi to Prince, Apollonia and Twinky, the three giant diplodocid sauropod skeletons right in its centre.

Next door, the NUS Museum is a cultural delight, with a collection encompassing more than 8000 artworks and artefacts ranging from ancient Chinese ceramics and classical Indian sculptures to contemporary Southeast Asian art pieces. It also has a gallery dedicated to the works of celebrated Singaporean sculptor Ng Eng Teng.

Labrador Nature Reserve | huntergol hp/shutterstock ©

RAIL-CORRIDOR ROUTE

Most of the Rail Corridor is open, with some small diversions in the north, and the southernmost point Tanjong Pagar Railway Station set to reopen in 2026. It would take five to six hours to walk the entire 24km route non-stop; a full day is needed to explore it properly. Sun protection is vital, especially for the northern section, which is less sheltered.

For just a taster, walk the 3km central section between the restored Bukit Timah Railway Station (King Albert Park MRT station) and the geometric black Upper Bukit Timah truss bridge (Hillview MRT Station). You can also branch off to explore Bukit Timah Nature Reserves or visit the historical Former Ford Factory.

BEST HOTELS IN THE WEST

Genting Hotel Jurong

Conveniently close to the Jurong East hub, with rooftop pool and shuttle service to Sentosa. $$$

Oasia Residence Singapore

Serviced apartments near Singapore’s technology cluster and tranquil West Coast Park. $$$

Momentus Hotel Alexandra

Chic contemporary rooms on the edge of venerable residential estates Redhill and Queenstown. $$$

Uncover the Secrets of Labrador Nature Reserve

MARITIME HISTORY AMID MANGROVE BOARDWALKS

The smallest of Singapore's four nature reserves at just 10 hectares, Labrador Nature Reserve offers its visitors more than a quick walk in the park. Wildlife-lovers will appreciate Singapore's only rocky sea cliff that can be found on the mainland and the three boardwalks that meander through mangroves and forests. History buffs can explore the artillery remains of Fort Pasir Panjang, which once defended nearby Keppel Harbour.

Ride the Cable Car at Mount Faber

SWEEPING VIEWS OF SOUTHERN SINGAPORE

Formerly a signal hill and defence fort, Mt Faber is one of the best places for a lofty view of Singapore's southern coastline – its highest point is about 100m above sea level. The peak is located at one end of the Southern Ridges walk, but most people visit Mt Faber to ride the cable car that links to Harbourfront and the resort island of Sentosa across the water. Remember to look down as the cable car moves off – several colonial-style black-and-white bungalows can be spotted amid the forested hillside, a stark contrast to the sleek architecture of the luxurious condominium complexes built along the waterfront.

There are some restaurants at Mt Faber peak if you want to dine with a view – sunset is a popular time to come. The restroom here proclaims to be the most scenic one in Singapore and has floor-to-ceiling glass panels for a stunning skyline view as you wash your hands. You can drive or take a taxi to the peak if you'd rather not take the cable car or hike up Marang Trail.

WANT MORE CABLE-CAR ACTION?

If you love the cable-car ride to Sentosa Island, there's good news: the island has its own cable car, offering beach and treetop views from Imbiah Lookout to Siloso Point, as well as the 79m-tall SkyHelix Sentosa gondola.

Let Loose at Jurong Lake Gardens

NATIONAL GARDEN IN THE HEARTLANDS

Jurong Lake Gardens are Singapore's newest national gardens, located in the heartlands and conveniently accessible from Chinese Garden and Lakeside MRT stations. The sprawling Lakeside Garden on the west shore has plenty to keep visitors interested, from meandering boardwalks and play areas to naturalistic habitats such as mangrove swamps, streams and grasslands. At the time of research the site's Chinese Garden and Japanese Garden were not yet open to visitors.

TASTES LIKE SINGAPORE

23

The iconic Singapore Sling is a gin cocktail, but if you’re curious about what a made-in-Singapore gin tastes like, check out the Brass Lion Distillery, one of the island's gin pioneers.

Its signature Singapore Dry Gin is an amalgamation of 22 locally sourced botanicals, including Asian flavours such as lemongrass, torch ginger flower and galangal.

Head to its premises at Alexandra Tce for a guided tour and tasting, or to personally distill your own bottle of gin.

HAWKER CENTRES FOR A QUICK BITE

ABC Brickworks Food Centre

Good food near the Southern Ridges; named for the brick factories formerly on the site. $

Clementi 448 Food Centre

Next to Clementi MRT station and bus interchange. Go early or expect long queues. $

Yuhua Village Food Centre

Hidden heartland gem near Jurong Lake Gardens with Michelin Bib Gourmand–awarded stalls. $

Learn & Play

WORLD OF WONDER FOR YOUNG MINDS

The Science Centre Singapore is fun no matter how old you are. It's home to more than 20 interactive galleries that explore varied topics such as the ecosystem, human anatomy and optical illusions, with regular shows and demonstrations to keep things lively. The Omni-Theatre has a giant IMAX screen that allows action to come alive, and sub-zero Snow City with its snowy slope is perfect for escaping the humidity. KidsSTOP is a dedicated section for children under eight years old.

Time for a Tipple

TOUR SINGAPORE'S HOMEGROWN BREWERY

A night at the bar can be quite pricey in Singapore, but it never hurts to learn more about how its most famous local beer is made. The Tiger Brewery is deep in the industrial area of Tuas, but that hasn’t deterred the many visitors who flock to its halls for a 45-minute tour about the creation of Tiger Beer, a draught pint with a sampler flight of five tasters, and a bottle to take home.

BEER WITH A VIEW

The world’s highest urban microbrewery is at Level 33, where five craft beers are hand-brewed. Down a pint while admiring the fabulous view of Marina Bay.

Trek in an Eco-Wonderland

MANGROVES AND MIGRATORY BIRDS

Bird-lovers should flock to Sungei Buloh Nature Reserve, home to over half of Singapore’s bird species and a haven for migratory birds escaping the winter cold – September to March is the best time for bird-watching. With more than 200 hectares of habitat ranging from mudflats and mangroves to ponds and forests, the reserve offers the chance to wander along the boardwalks and keep an eye out for mudskippers, monitor lizards and the occasional estuarine crocodile.

If that’s not enough nature for you, the neighbouring Kranji Marshes are one of the largest freshwater marshes in Singapore. Climb up Raptor Tower for a panoramic view of the surroundings, and keep a lookout for rare birds during the raptor-migration season from November to March.

WHY I LOVE SINGAPORE’S WEST

Jaclynn Seah, writer

Going west always feels like an adventure to me. I’m a city girl used to Singapore’s built-up spaces and skyscrapers, so standing on the mangrove boardwalk in Sungei Buloh Wetlands without a tall building in sight is a pretty bizarre feeling.

I love checking out nature trails when I travel, but somehow I never do so when I’m at home – too hot! Too busy! Too many excuses! – but that changed when I took my first nature walk in Bukit Batok Town Park and had colugos gliding over my head and an endangered pangolin trundle across my path, just metres from the evening joggers. There’s more to Singapore than fancy architecture and apartment blocks.

FUN PLACES FOR KIDS TO RUN FREE

Science Centre Singapore

Interactive exhibitions and demonstrations that bring science concepts to life in a fun way.

Jurong Lake Gardens

Sprawling park with wet and dry playgrounds, landscaped gardens and boardwalks for rambling.

Jurong East Swimming Complex

Awesomely cheap public swimming-pool complex with fun slides, wave pool and lazy river.

Pay Respects at a Hilltop Memorial

IN MEMORY OF THE FALLEN

More than 4400 white headstones are neatly lined up on a verdant hillside at the Kranji War Memorial. This serene cemetery commemorates Allied servicemen from the British Commonwealth who died in the line of duty during WWII. Over 24,000 names are inscribed on four memorials on top of the hill to remember those without graves. Nearby is the Singapore State Cemetery, where Singapore’s first two presidents are buried. A memorial service is held on the Sunday closest to 11 November, Remembrance Day.

Throw Some Pottery

WORKSHOPS WITH A HISTORIC KILN

Visit Singapore’s last surviving dragon kiln in operation at the Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle. It's owned by the Tan family, who have been in the ceramics business for three generations since 1965. Manning this wood-fired kiln is an intensive labour process, so it’s only fired a few times every year, but pottery workshops are run year-round. Though the space is out of the way, ceramics fans will find it impossible to walk away empty-handed – there's an overflowing selection of handmade crockery and Peranakan pottery on display.

GETTING AROUND THE KRANJI COUNTRYSIDE

The Kranji countryside is not well served by public transport and has only two bus lines. Bus 925 will get you to Kranji Reservoir car park B, near the Sungei Buloh Nature Reserve Visitor Centre, while Bus 925M only runs on Sunday and public holidays.

The Kranji Farms Shuttle connects visitors arriving at Kranji MRT station to some of the farms and sightseeing spots in the Kranji countryside. Purchase a $5 day pass on board the bus to hop on and off all day. Note that it only runs on Saturday, Sunday and public holidays.

A Taste of Farm Life

AGRICULTURAL PLOTS IN THE NORTHWEST

Land-scarce Singapore has little room for agriculture and imports most of its food supplies, but many visitors are surprised to know there are farms that you can visit. This is a rare chance to see a less-metropolitan side of Singapore.

The Kranji countryside in the north-western corner of Lim Chu Kang is the most well-known farm cluster. Hay Dairies is Singapore’s only goat farm, where you can drink fresh goat milk, watch the daily milking and hand-feed the goats. Wander around the crops and trails of organic Bollywood Farms and then grab a sumptuous farm-to-fork lunch at Poison Ivy Bistro. Admire the many tanks of ornamental fish at Qianhu Fish Farm and have a go at catching small fish with a net, feeding koi, or dipping your feet into a fish spa.

Away from Kranji, check out the Bee Amazed Garden in Clementi, where you can safely interact with local honeybees, learn basic beekeeping and do some honey tasting.

UNUSUAL HOTEL CONCEPTS

Villa Samadhi

Cosy rooms in a restored 1920s colonial bungalow within a nature reserve. $$$

Shipping Container Hotel @ Haw Par Villa

Cargo containers converted into modern cabins complete with kitchenettes, bathrooms and patios. $$

Gardenasia Farmstay Villas

Three uniquely themed villas in black-and-white bungalows set amid Kranji’s forests and farms. $$

Sentosa Island

RESORT ISLAND WITH AN UNUSUAL HISTORY

When you’re queuing for a ride at Universal Studios or threading your way through the tourist crowds milling around Imbiah Lookout, it’s hard to imagine that the premier resort island of Sentosa was once quiet, tree-filled Pulau Blakang Mati, home to an assortment of small fishing villages and boat-dwelling sea nomads.

Sentosa Gateway | Thank you./Getty Images ©

Sentosa is located off Singapore’s southern shores along the narrow straits that led to Singapore’s main port. In 1878 the British turned the island into a defence outpost to protect this key trade route. During WWII the majority of the island’s artillery pointed southwards to deter sea attacks, so Japanese forces decided to infiltrate from the north instead, leading to a long-running joke about how those big British guns were pointed in the wrong direction.

In the 1970s and the early days of Singapore’s independence, the island was renamed Sentosa and transformed into a resort with a rotating slew of tourist attractions packed into its compact 500 hectares, though the place only really started to shine after Resorts World Sentosa came along in 2010. Before COVID-19 arrived, Sentosa drew more than 19 million visitors a year – a remarkable number when you consider that the total population of Singapore is only around five million.

Little of that early sleepy fishing isle remains today; instead you’ll find myriad artificial attractions in the centre of the island, surrounded by carefully cultivated outdoor spaces exuding that all-important tropical vibe. Some of Singapore’s nicest beaches – with imported white sand – can be found along the island’s west coast. Eastwards, at Sentosa Cove, are some of the country’s most exclusive waterfront residences and not one but two golf courses.

Sentosa is where you go for a little escapism. It’s a giant playground where you can let your hair down on holiday before you head back to the real world.

Siloso Beach | i viewfinder/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

S.E.A. AQUARIUM

One of the world’s largest aquariums, with more than 100,000 marine animals in spectacular viewing tanks.

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS SINGAPORE

The thrilling rides and blockbuster-themed spaces of this theme park are one of Sentosa’s main draws.

FORT SILOSO

Singapore’s last remaining preserved coastal fort showcases history and views at the connected 11-storey Siloso Skywalk.

PALAWAN BEACH

This family-centric white-sand beach has the best mix of accessibility, activities and amenities.

TOP SIGHTS

1  Fort Siloso

2  Palawan Beach

3  S.E.A. Aquarium

4  Universal Studios

SIGHTS

5  Adventure Cove Waterpark

6  Central Beach Bazaar

7  Fort Connaught

8  Fort Serapong

9  Fort Siloso Skywalk

10  Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum

11  MegaAdventure

see 6  Sentosa Musical Fountain

see 6  Sentosa SkyJet

12  Siloso Beach

13  SkyHelix Sentosa

14  Skyline Luge Sentosa

15  Tanjong Beach

16  Tanjong Rimau

see 6  Wings of Time

ACTIVITIES & TOURS

17  Coastal Trail

18  HydroDash

19  iFly Singapore

20  Imbiah Nature Trail

21  Skypark Sentosa by AJ Hackett

SLEEPING

22  Capella Singapore

23  Equarius Ocean Suites

24  Equarius TreeTop Lofts

25  Oasia Resort

26  Outpost Hotel Sentosa

27  The Barracks Hotel

see 26  Village Hotel Sentosa

28  W Singapore

EATING

29  Cassia

see 6  Good Old Days Food Court

30  Greenwood Fish Market

31  International Food Street

32  Malaysian Food Street

33  Ocean Restaurant

see 30  Quayside Isle

see 28  Skirt Restaurant

34  table65

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

35  Boaters’ Bar

36  FOC Sentosa

37  Ola Beach Club

38  Rumours Beach Club

39  Tanjong Beach Club

see 28  WOOBAR

TRANSPORT

40  Sentosa Cable Car Line

TOP TIP

Sentosa is a very popular tourist destination, so be prepared to fork out a fair sum for admission, food and shopping – the latter are more expensive here. Pop over to VivoCity and the Seah Im Food Centre in Harbourfront, just across the water, for cheaper meals and shopping options.

I LIVE HERE: SECRETS OF SENTOSA

Toh Thiam Wei, founder of Indie Singapore Tours, shares his tips for experiencing a different side to Sentosa.

Explore Abandoned Forts

Fort Siloso is the best preserved of Sentosa’s forts, but only guided tours can access Fort Serapong and Fort Connaught’s remaining observation post.

Be a Crazy Rich Asian

Ximula Sail and Wanderlust Adventures offer affordable sunset cruises and day sails to experience the high life, or you can wind down at the Boaters’ Bar at ONEº15 Marina and Greenwood Fish Market.

See Sentosa’s Hidden Beach

The Tanjong Rimau (Siloso Headland) protected area is a secluded beach with hidden caves and abandoned lookout points. It’s only accessible during low tide.

Top Experience

Universal Studios Singapore

Southeast Asia’s first and only Universal Studios is one of Universal's smaller parks but offers an array of thrilling rides and interactive shows alongside a slew of restaurants and shops, all themed after popular Hollywood blockbusters. There’s something for everyone, from kid-friendly attractions to adrenaline-pumping rides, but be prepared for long queues in Singapore’s sweltering heat during peak season.

Lifestyle Travel Photo/shutterstock ©

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code to prepare for your visit at rwsentosa.com/en/attractions/universal-studios-singapore.

Thrilling Roller Coasters & Rides

Battlestar Galactica: HUMAN vs CYLON in the Sci-fi zone is the world’s tallest duelling roller coaster and the park’s highlight – the red HUMAN track is exciting enough, but for more thrills choose the blue CYLON track, where your legs dangle freely. Revenge of the Mummy in the Ancient Egypt section is a bumpy but exhilarating ride navigating tunnels in the dark in search of the Book of the Living, while TRANSFORMERS The Ride uses 3D glasses to immerse you in the action as you zip through the city with the Autobots to fight the Decepticons. The Jurassic Park Rapids Adventure starts off as a leisurely float down a river on a circular raft that rapidly turns into something more exhilarating when the dinosaurs go on a rampage! Bring your own poncho so you don’t get wet – or prepare to fork out an exorbitant amount for a flimsy piece of plastic in the queue.

Meet Your Favourite Characters

Indulge your children (or your inner child) by snapping photos with life-size characters around the park that hail from a slew of famous film and television franchises, including Despicable Me, Madagascar, Kung Fu Panda, Shrek, Sesame Street and The Mummy. Jurassic Park fans will love the particularly life-like raptor encounter with a surprisingly realistic animatronic dinosaur. The walking, talking Transformers that make snarky remarks are also fan favourites.

DON’T MISS

Battlestar Galactica: CYLON

Revenge of the Mummy

TRANSFORMERS The Ride: The Ultimate 3D Battle

Jurassic Park Rapids Adventure

Canopy Flyer

Raptor encounter

Lights. Camera, Action! Hosted by Steven Spielberg

Show-Stopping Performances

The theme park’s marquee show WaterWorld, based on the titular Kevin Costner flick, is a crowd pleaser with the right mix of explosive pyrotechnics, acrobatic stunts and lots of splashes. Unfortunately, it's been ‘temporarily unavailable’ since COVID-19 restrictions came into effect in 2020, though no updates have been given on the show’s future. Lights, Camera, Action! Hosted by Steven Spielberg is a fun insight into movie magic and the wonders of special effects coming to life on a soundstage. The Shrek 4-D Adventure will make you feel as though you’ve been dropped into the actual Shrek world.

UNIVERSAL EXPRESS

Universal Express is an add-on to your admission ticket that allows you to use the express queues at several popular rides. The quantity available and the price depend on park capacity; Universal Express can cost more than the admission ticket itself. You can prepurchase or buy in the park after you gauge whether the crowds warrant forking out the extra cash.

For the Kids

Good news for the faint-hearted or those with kids: not all the rides are gut-wrenchers. For some milder thrills, Far Far Away is a good section to start in, with the junior roller coasters Puss in Boots: Giant Journey and Enchanted Airways. The Treasure Hunters ride in Ancient Egypt is also popular, allowing you to ‘drive’ through an excavation site. The Canopy Flyer allows you to fly above the crowds like a pterodactyl, while Dino-Soarin’ lets the kids go up, up and away astride their favourite flying dinosaur. The Sesame Street Spaghetti Space Chase is another fun ride that the whole family can enjoy – you 'go into space' with Elmo and Grover.

Battlestar Galactica roller coaster | PenguiNJunE/shutterstock ©

TOP TIPS

• Plan ahead for savings – it may be cheaper to bundle the Universal Studios admission ticket with other Sentosa attractions.

• Check whether your e-ticket allows direct entry to the park, or you may have to spend extra time queueing at the park’s ticketing counter to exchange it for an admission ticket.

• Download the Universal Studios app to gauge queuing times and check opening hours in case of ride closures.

• Lockers in different areas are free for different durations. Keep a credit card on you in case long queues cause you to exceed the free period.

MORE IN SENTOSA ISLAND

Experience an Underwater Paradise

DIVE DEEP INTO THE S.E.A.

One of the world’s largest aquariums, S.E.A. Aquarium houses more than 100,000 marine animals across 1000 species and is the perfect place for a little marine education. The interactive exhibits and tanks are engaging and awe-inspiring. The Open Ocean Habitat has an impressively large 36m-wide, 8.3m-high glass viewing panel where you can watch manta rays and other sea life glide through the water. Don’t miss the Apex Predators of the Sea, a tunnel with more than 100 sharks swimming overhead.

Deepen your experience by adding one of the special programmes – the VIP option includes exclusive back-of-house access, while visitors with scuba-diving certification can take a plunge and view the Open Ocean Habitat from inside the tank.

S.E.A. Aquarium | CREATIVA IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE COST OF ENTERING SENTOSA

Sentosa’s admission fee depends on how you enter the island.

Walking or cycling across the Sentosa Boardwalk bridge from the Harbourfront is completely free. Taking public bus 123 also only requires the standard distance-based bus fare without any additional island admission fee.

The Sentosa Express monorail from VivoCity Shopping Centre to Resorts World Sentosa, Mt Imbiah and the Beach Station costs $4 per person. If you're in a small group, consider taking a car or taxi, as this costs $2 to $6 per vehicle depending on the time of day.

The most scenic way to reach Sentosa is via cable car from Mt Faber or the Harbourfront Centre. Round-trip tickets cost up to $35 per person.

CHEAPER EATS ON AN EXPENSIVE ISLAND

Malaysian Food Street

Affordable street-food favourites from across the causeway. $

Good Old Days Food Court

Near Beach Station, this food court offers local and Asian dishes and even a buffet option. $

International Food Street

New beachside enclave of food-truck-style finger food at the Central Beach Bazaar. $

Adventure Cove Waterpark

SPLISH, SPLASH AND SNORKEL

Stay cool in Singapore’s sultry humidity and have a splashing good time. Adventure Cove Waterpark has several twisting, spiralling water slides for thrill-seekers – the Pipeline Plunge is particularly exhilarating because you slide in the dark, while the washout rides swirl around and surprise with sudden drops. Little ones can enjoy the kid-friendly Big Bucket Treehouse and Seahorse Hideaway water playgrounds.

For those who prefer something more sedate, enjoy bobbing around in the giant wave pool at Bluwater Bay, float around the park along the Adventure River, or head to Rainbow Reef for some snorkelling with more than 20,000 tropical fish.

THE ISLAND BEHIND DEATH

Sentosa means ‘tranquility’ in Malay – it's an apt name for a resort devoted to rest and relaxation. But the island's former name would have been far less enticing to tourists: it was once called Pulau Blakang Mati (The Island Behind Death).

It’s not known how this ominous name came about. One theory says it stems from the bloodthirsty acts of piracy that were prevalent in bygone days.

Another story goes that the island was used as a burial ground for the losers of grudge-match duels between neighbouring tribes.

A nationwide contest was held to find a suitable name to support the island's tourism aspirations, and in 1969 Pulau Blakang Mati’s name was officially changed to Sentosa.

BEST FREE ACTIVITIES ON SENTOSA

Sentosa’s Beaches

Pack a picnic and spend a day lounging on the white sand of Sentosa’s three beaches.

Fort Siloso

Walk through history at Singapore’s last preserved coastal fort, taking in the view at Siloso Skywalk.

Magical Shores

An interactive light and sound projection brings the sands of Siloso Beach to life every evening.

Get Your Adrenaline Pumping

THRILLS AND SPILLS

If Universal Studios’ roller coasters and rides aren’t exciting enough, Sentosa has plenty of other ways to satisfy adrenaline junkies. MegaAdventure has a climbing course and trampolines, but the highlight is MegaZip, the 450m-long zip-line over the treetops and beach. At Skyline Luge Sentosa, take the Skyride chairlift to the top of Mt Imbiah and then hurtle down four winding slope tracks on a luge.

You can also freefall in one of the world’s largest indoor wind tunnels (about six storeys high) at iFly Singapore. At Skypark Sentosa by AJ Hackett, challenge yourself with a 50m-high bungee jump or ride the giant swing right on Siloso Beach.

Unique Hotel Experiences

STAYS TO REMEMBER

If you’ve ever wondered what it would be like to sleep underwater, splurge on a room at the Equarius Ocean Suites, where you can fall asleep to a view of fish and rays swimming by your window – there’s almost no need to visit S.E.A. Aquarium with this morning outlook! Those who prefer a more bird’s-eye view can consider the treetop canopy suites at Equarius TreeTop Lofts.

History-lovers might want to book a room at The Barracks Hotel, housed in a restored British colonial black-and-white building. Most of the hotels in Sentosa are very family-friendly, but those looking to escape the rowdy young’uns for a bit might book a stay at the adults-only Outpost Hotel Sentosa, which has an exclusive rooftop pool and the 1-Altitude Coast bar.

Lounge on White-Sand Beaches

SUN, SAND AND SEA

Each of Sentosa’s three beaches has its own personality and attracts a different type of crowd. Tanjong Beach is generally more tranquil as it’s a bit further removed from the action, though you’ll find that the daybeds and loungers by the beachfront pool at the award-winning Tanjong Beach Club always seem packed.

More family-friendly Palawan Beach is where you’ll find the inflatable obstacle course HydroDash – great fun for those who like a little competition and a lot of falling into the sea. For something more relaxing, hang out at the FOC Sentosa Beach Club.

Sentosa’s marquee show Wings of Time, along with the Sentosa Musical Fountain and the Sentosa Skyjet, can be found at the Central Beach Bazaar between Palawan Beach and Siloso Beach.

You can rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard from Ola Beach Club, or grab your friends and hop on a doughnut or banana boat for more wild and watery fun. Siloso Beach has the most beach clubs for those looking to rent a sunbed or take a dip in a pool – Rumours Beach Club with its three pools is a popular place to chill for the afternoon.

It's important to note that most beach clubs and bars require a minimum spend from customers to rent their facilities, especially during peak periods. If you’re on a budget, pack your own food and drinks and bring your own mat and umbrella. There’s plenty of sand for you to sit on, or you can find a sheltered spot in the Sapphire and Emerald Pavilions on Siloso Beach.

WHAT’S AT SENTOSA COVE?

Swanky Sentosa Cove, at the east of the island, is mostly home to some very expensive property, but it also has some great dining options if central Sentosa is too crowded.

The designer W Singapore is the only hotel on this part of the island. Guests can enjoy the expansive pool, and guests and nonguests alike can feast on steak at the renowned SKIRT restaurant or have a tipple at WOOBAR.

Nearby Quayside Isle has a fine selection of restaurants and cafes, along with a view of sleek yachts and a pier for strolling.

Sentosa Cove is 10 minutes away from Beach Station via Sentosa Shuttle Bus B (free) or 15 minutes from Harbourfront Bus Station ($3).

SURRENDERING THE ISLAND

See the actual location where the British surrendered to the Japanese during WWII at the Former Ford Factory along Upper Bukit Timah Rd. The site is now a museum and memorial of Singapore’s time as Syonan-to.

RESTAURANTS WORTH THE SPLURGE

Ocean Restaurant

Feast on modern-European seafood surrounded by the S.E.A. Aquarium tanks. $$$
table65

Watch the chefs prepare your courses at the open kitchen table of this Michelin-star restaurant. $$$

Cassia

Savour dim sum classics done with a contemporary twist in this elegant space at the Capella Hotel. $$$

Walk Through Sentosa’s History

GLIMPSE THE ISLAND'S PAST

Fort Siloso, on the western tip of Sentosa, is Singapore’s last well-preserved coastal fort. Whimsical art with snippets of local culture decorates the path leading to the bunkers, and the old barracks and tunnels have been transformed into galleries that recreate moments from Singapore's history under British rule with dioramas and audio clips. End your walk with a panoramic view from the 11-storey-tall Siloso Skywalk that connects the fort to Siloso Point.

As you follow the Imbiah Nature Trail you'll see the remains of the Imbiah Battery along with sections of track from the monorail that used to go around the island.

Many of the colonial buildings that were once military barracks and quarters have been repurposed; look for the iconic black-and-white buildings that now house Madame Tussaud’s, The Barracks Hotel and parts of Capella Singapore, the Village Hotel Sentosa and the Oasia Resort.

Surrender Chambers, Fort Siloso | Derek Teo/Alamy Stock Photo ©

WHY I LOVE SENTOSA

Jaclynn Seah, writer

Sentosa wasn’t always the polished (and pricey) resort that it is today. I remember sticking my head out of the window of the monorail for air, the cheap thrill of riding the ferry 10 minutes across Keppel Harbour to Sentosa’s old ferry terminal, and waking up in a hammock at Palawan Beach during a school camp as wild peacocks casually strolled past.

The island has got fancier and more commercialised since Resorts World Sentosa came along, with a greater variety of activities, eateries and accommodation options for visitors, but I still smile when I spot hints around the island of the Sentosa that I grew up with.

BEST VIEWPOINTS ON SENTOSA

Fort Siloso Skywalk

See Siloso Beach and Keppel Harbour from the (free!) 11-storey-high bridge connecting to Fort Siloso.

SkyHelix Sentosa

Let your feet dangle on this 79m-tall open-air gondola ride from Mt Imbiah with 360-degree views.

Sentosa Cable Car Line

Sail over the treetops from Imbiah Lookout to Siloso Point, taking in views of the beach and distant islands.

Time to Go Wild

SENTOSA'S GREEN SIDE

For all of its landscaped nature, Sentosa does have some nice little nature trails for a serene walk. The forested Imbiah Nature Trail offers wildlife spotting, and has some mini waterfalls and even a few ‘dragon bones’ to excite the little ones.

The Coastal Trail near Fort Siloso has an awesome view of Keppel Harbour. You can rent a bicycle from Gogreen Eco Adventure and cycle the 3km beachside route from Siloso Beach to Tanjong Beach.

Sentosa organises guided nature tours that will give you access to protected areas such as Siloso Headland and Fort Serapong (sentosa.com.sg/en/things-to-do/events).

Day Trips from Singapore

QUICK ESCAPES FROM THE GARDEN CITY

It takes less than an hour to drive clean across Singapore from east to west, so it might surprise you to know that there are some day-trip options that don’t require you to pull out your passport. The island of Singapore is part of a larger archipelago consisting of 64 islands, though only a handful of these offshore isles can be visited.

If you’re looking to go a little further, Singapore is connected by land to Malaysia through Johor Bahru up north, and by sea to Batam and Bintan – two of Indonesia’s Riau Islands – in the south. Such geographical proximity means there is some shared culture and history with Singapore in all of these places, but they’ve each developed their own charm that’s worth some further exploration if you are up for a little travelling.

Taking a day trip to Malaysia or Indonesia is also a good way to stretch your travel budget, as food, transport and shopping in these countries generally cost much less than in Singapore. You might feel as though you haven’t left Singapore at all if you visit these day-trip hot spots on weekends or public holidays, because you’ll be surrounded by like-minded Singaporeans looking for a cheap and easy getaway.

If you’ve zipped through Singapore’s main sights and have some time to spare, consider checking out these day-trip options to add some depth and flavour to your visit.

DON’T MISS

CHEK JAWA WETLANDS

Lush mangrove swamps and intertidal area teeming with marine life on Pulau Ubin's eastern shore.

LAZARUS BEACH

Arguably Singapore's most appealing white-sand beach for its sheer lack of crowds.

BARELANG BRIDGE

Batam's famous bridge linking its islands is a great backdrop to a hearty seafood dinner.

PULAU PENYENGAT

Ride a motorised scooter around this compact historic island just off Tanjung Pinang in Bintan.

JALAN TAN HIOK NEE

Charming lane in Johor Bahru's historic town centre, right across the strait from Singapore.

LEGOLAND

Bustling theme park filled with rides and attractions for the whole family.

PULAU UBIN

A BIODIVERSITY TREASURE TROVE, SINGAPORE’S SECOND-LARGEST ISLAND IS ALSO A THROWBACK TO EARLY VILLAGE LIFE.

‘Pulau Ubin’ translates to Granite Island, and granite is one of the primary reasons people came to live on this island back in the day. Today’s Pulau Ubin is like a time capsule, a reminder of Singapore’s main island in a time before its tropical forests became a concrete jungle. While early quarrying destroyed much of Pulau Ubin’s primary vegetation, time and conservation efforts have turned the island green again – over a thousand species of animal, insect and plant are now found here, along with almost all of Singapore’s known mangrove species. In addition, this is one of the last places that visitors can witness the old kampung (village) lifestyle.

See the Wild Side of Singapore

AN ABUNDANCE OF TROPICAL BIODIVERSITY

Keep a sharp eye out when critter-watching on Pulau Ubin: some of the plants and animals you might spot can no longer be found on the mainland. The 100-hectare Chek Jawa Wetlands on the island’s east coast are particularly notable, with six distinct ecosystems in a single location. It’s a favourite place for spotting migratory birds and intertidal exploration. Explore with care, as you may encounter wild boars and macaques along the way.

HOW TO GET TO PULAU UBIN

Take a public bus or a taxi to Changi Point Ferry Terminal, from which many small bumboats make the journey to Pulau Ubin in just 10 minutes. Each bumboat takes up to 12 people, and there is no fixed schedule as boats leave only when they're full. A one-way ride costs $4 per person, and passengers who bring bicycles will pay an additional $2 per bicycle each way. Have exact change, as the fare is paid in cash directly to the boatman. Boats operate from 6am to 6pm, but aim to leave well before 6pm as there are no other ways to get off the island.

TOP TIP

Visit on weekdays to avoid the crowds, but some shops and eateries may be closed. Bring cash, as there are no ATMs.

Gear Up for Adventure

HIKE, BIKE OR PADDLE

Just 10 sq km, Pulau Ubin is easy enough to hike, but cycling saves you time and energy – it takes just 20 minutes to cycle (versus 45 minutes of walking) to the furthest points east and west of the Main Village, where there are plenty of rental shops and bicycle-hire options.

Serious mountain bikers can also test their skills on the trails of Ketam Mountain Bike Park, beside an abandoned granite quarry on the western side of the island.

If you prefer to use a paddle, book a kayaking tour that explores the island’s coastline and the waterways that cut through its many mangrove forests.

Beach, Pulau Ubin | Cas Rentmeesters/shutterstock ©

Eat Seafood on a Floating Restaurant

FEAST AT A FISH FARM

Kelongs (floating fish farms) were a common sight along the coasts of early Singapore. Smith Marine Floating Restaurant, just off Pulau Ubin’s southern tip, is one of the country’s last remaining kelongs. Here you can enjoy a sea-to-table meal in the middle of the water. Bookings are a must, and there’s an additional fee for the chartered bumboat that will take you there from Changi Point Ferry Terminal.

WHERE TO EAT ON PULAU UBIN

Cheong Lian Yuen

Small place in the Main Village serving home-style zi char and seafood dishes. $

Ah Ma Drink Stall

Just before Jelutong Bridge; cool down by the mangroves with a fresh coconut juice. $

Melah Cafe

Quaint weekend-only place serving halal Malay dishes such as lontong (coconut-curry vegetable stew). $

A DAY CYCLING AROUND PULAU UBIN

Rent a bicycle from the 1 Main Village once you hop off the ferry, and cycle 20 minutes east along Jalan Durian towards the 2 Chek Jawa Wetlands. Leave your bike at the entrance and stroll towards 3 House No. 1, a conserved 1930s Tudor-style mansion that’s also the visitor centre. Double back to ride the 4 Coastal Boardwalk through beaches and mangrove forest. (Check the tide tables: low tide, when the shores are exposed, is the best time to visit.) Climb the seven-storey 5 Jewaji Tower along the way for a panoramic view and coastal bird-spotting opportunities. As you head back towards the Main Village, pop into 6 Ubin Fruit Orchard, home to more than 30 species of tropical fruit tree, including rambutan, chiku and jambu. See what a typical village house looks like at the conserved 7 Teck Seng’s Place, and then follow the meandering 8 Sensory Trail to get a sense of the old plantations here. Grab a bite in the Main Village, then head west along Jalan Jelutong towards the island’s many abandoned granite quarries. More than 140 species of butterfly live on 9 Butterfly Hill, which also offers a view of floating wetlands at the nearby 10 Pekan Quarry, now home to heron nesting platforms. Keep cycling till you reach 11 Puaka Hill, where there’s a short but steep climb with a view of Ubin Quarry below. The furthest point along the west path for casual cyclists is 12 Ketam Quarry, where the curious can visit the obscure 13 German Girl Shrine and seasoned mountain bikers can hit the trails at 14 Ketam Mountain Bike Park before heading back to the ferry terminal.

SOUTHERN ISLANDS

ONLY A HANDFUL OF SINGAPORE’S UNINHABITED OFFSHORE SOUTHERN ISLANDS CAN BE VISITED AS THEY’RE MOSTLY HOME TO HEAVY INDUSTRIES.

Of the three most visited southern islands that can be reached by public ferry, unassuming St John’s Island has the most colourful history: it was once a quarantine and opium-rehabilitation center, though you wouldn’t know that from walking around the remains of the old structures today. It’s connected by a causeway to Lazarus Island, which has a lovely white-sand beach, while neighbouring Kusu Island is where devotees pray to the local deities for wealth and health. Meanwhile, the coral reefs of the nearby Sisters’ Islands have been undergoing restoration in recent years. They’re set to reopen to the public with the addition of a snorkelling pool and a forest trail in 2024.

Pilgrimage to a Legendary Island

SITE OF ANNUAL WORSHIP

Kusu Island translates to ‘Tortoise Island’ – the name is based on a legend about a giant tortoise that transformed into an island to save some drowning sailors. Normally a tranquil destination, tiny Kusu gets particularly busy during the ninth lunar month (around September or October), when throngs of worshippers make their annual pilgrimage to pray at the Da Bo Gong Temple and the three Malay keramat (shrines) on the hillock behind the temple.

HOW TO VISIT THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS

From Marina South Ferry Terminal, regular daily services from Singapore Island Cruises and Marina South Ferries take you to St John’s Island and Kusu Island. A return ticket costs $15, with services starting at 9am and the last boats leaving the islands at about 6pm.

From Sentosa, Marina South Ferries runs on weekends only from Sentosa Jetty@Cove to Seringat Jetty on Lazarus Island. A return ticket costs $20, and ferries run every two hours from 9am.

Marina South Ferries also offers sunset dinner cruises and a private water-taxi service for the Southern Islands.

You will need to charter a private boat to visit Pulau Hantu and take a special tour for the restricted Pulau Satumu.

Dive the Underwater Trails

TREASURES BENEATH THE WAVES

While Singapore’s murky waters are a far cry from the crystal-clear seas of its neighbours, muck-diving enthusiasts may find some surprises with the help of a good torch. Scuba-diving sites around the islands of Pulau Hantu and Pulau Jong are home to crustaceans, cuttlefish and even some unusual nudibranchs. An underwater dive trail has been developed at the Sisters’ Islands, which at the time of research were set to reopen to visitors in 2024.

Lazarus Island | Sami Peltokangas/shutterstock ©

An Escape from the City

OVERNIGHT ON THE ISLANDS

Right by Lazarus Beach, Tiny Escape @ Lazarus Island consists of five cargo containers that have been transformed into little container hotels, complete with air-conditioning, attached bathrooms and even a patio. Make sure to pack enough food to keep you going overnight, as there are no amenities or stores on the islands.

There are campsites on Pulau Ubin and Pulau Hantu as well as camping lodges on St John’s Island, but you will need a resident with a Singpass account to book and pay for the required camping permit (Temporary Occupation License) if you want to camp outdoors in Singapore.

TOP TIP

If you want more flexibility to explore the southern islands, charter a yacht to cruise around for the day.

FUN ACTIVITIES IN THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS

Visit Singapore’s Southernmost Lighthouse

The Marine Port Authority organises a monthly tour to visit the Raffles Lighthouse on Pulau Satumu.

Go Fish

Cast your line off Pulau Ubin or the Southern Islands, or go on a fishing trip.

Intertidal Exploration

Join a guided nature walk with Untamed Paths to offshore islands such as Pulau Hantu.

A DAY-LONG SOUTHERN ISLANDS CRUISE

The easiest way to explore the southern islands is by ferry from the 1 Marina South Ferry Terminal. The first stop is 2 St John’s Island – saunter across the causeway to 3 Lazarus Island and spend some time enjoying the beautiful white sand at 4 Lazarus Island Beach. Wander to the northern end, which used to be the separate island of 5 Pulau Kias, to enjoy the view of mainland Singapore. Head back to St John’s Island and walk westwards past the jetty. The 6 Old Governor’s House sits atop a small hill overlooking 7 St John’s Island Beach, which has benches for a picnic and is pleasant for exploration at low tide. Follow the paved roads inland and see the remnants of the old village, which was a quarantine centre once upon a time. The eastern side of St John’s Island is dedicated to marine research, and the 8 Sisters’ Islands Marine Park Public Gallery is open to visitors, though only on the eve of public holidays for just two hours. Walk back to the jetty and hop on the next boat to 9 Kusu Island. Turn right after the pier towards the 10 Da Bo Gong Temple, dedicated to the local god of prosperity. Further on, a narrow flight of 152 steps leads up the hill to three 11 Malay keramat (shrines) where devotees can pray for wealth and health. Look out for the 12 Tortoise Sanctuary, home to hundreds of tortoises. The rest of the island is open space, with a sheltered cove to the north and some pavilions for picnickers. There are no overnight stays, so be sure to catch the last ferry back to Marina South Ferry Terminal.

BATAM

SUN, SEAFOOD AND SHOPPING AWAIT ON AN EASY DAY TRIP TO THIS INDONESIAN ISLAND LESS THAN AN HOUR FROM SINGAPORE.

Batam is the largest city in the Riau archipelago and one of the most popular day-trip and weekend-getaway spots for Singaporeans. A quick ferry ride away, Batam is an easy way to spend a relaxing day out without blowing your travel budget. There’s a galaxy of affordable outdoor activities and water sports; foodies can indulge in a seafood feast by the shore or hang out in cute cafes; or you can just spend a few hours shopping and heading to the spa.

Taxis or a rental car are the easiest way to get around quickly, and rideshare apps such as Grab and Gojek are also convenient, though do your research as they're limited to specific pickup points.

Cross the Barelang Bridge

AN ICON OF BATAM

There aren’t any true must-see sights on Batam, but the Barelang Bridge can be considered one of its icons. It's actually made up of six bridges and is named for the three largest islands that it connects: Batam, Rempang and Galang. Avid cyclists can traverse its 50km route – consider a cycling tour for safety, as the bridge area gets jammed with traffic when it's busy. Eating seafood in a kelong on stilts near the bridge is also popular: check out Barelang Bridge Seafood or Kopak Jaya 007.

GETTING TO & AROUND BATAM

Maximise your day trip by making an early start: the first ferries depart Singapore's Cruise Centre at Harbourfront at 7.40am. Coming the other way, the latest departures leave Batam at 8.30pm.

Renting a car at the ferry terminal is possible, but driving in Batam can be hectic if you're unfamiliar with the roads. Consider hiring a car with driver instead – it's usually cheaper and certainly more convenient than taking taxis everywhere. Most drivers use WhatsApp to communicate with their customers.

Rideshare apps such as Grab and Gojek can also be used, but tensions with the local taxi industry mean there are limited rideshare pickup points within the city area.

Gear Up for Adventure

AFFORDABLE FAMILY ACTIVITIES

Batam is a haven for lovers of watersports who are on a budget. Popular spots include Harris Resort and Batam View Beach Resorts for jetskiing, banana boating and parasailing and Batam WakePark for cable-tow wakeboarding. You can also arrange to go scuba diving or snorkelling at remote Abang Island, located off the southern end of Galang Island.

If you prefer to stay dry, head to Golden City Go-Kart in Bengkong for go-karting; tackle a high-elements adventure course and paintball at Belalang Adventure; or do some trekking at Panbil Nature Reserve. For something more sedate, chill out on Nongsa Beach or Melayu Beach, or tee off at one of Batam’s many golf courses.

WHERE TO EAT IN BATAM

Nagoya Food Court

With more than 60 stalls, this is one of the best places to sample Batam’s local delights. $

Pasar Penuin Wet Market

Local hangout that's especially popular for breakfast; has several long-time food stalls. $

Grand Batam Mall

One of Batam’s best shopping malls, with a good mix of international and local brands. $$

TOP TIP

Cash is the main form of payment in Batam, so exchange some Indonesian rupiah before you go. There are money-changers and ATMs at the ferry terminal just in case.

Get Spiritual

DISCOVER THE CITY'S TEMPLES

The Maha Vihara Duta Maitreya is a huge 4.5-hectare Buddhist-temple complex dedicated to the Maitreya, who is more colloquially known as the Laughing Buddha. For something more traditional, Nagoya's vibrant red Vihara Budhi Bhakti Temple, dedicated to Tua Pek Kong, is also worth a visit.

Maha Vihara Duta Maitreya Temple | Nuttsue/shutterstock ©

MY FAVOURITE EATING SPOTS IN BATAM

Chandrana Rachman, a Batam native and enthusiastic foodie, divulges the most highly recommended eating spots in his hometown. @batamliciouz

Volla Social House

An elegant and spacious wood-themed venue, this cafe serves good drinks alongside delicious Asian and Western cuisine. It’s also the only cafe in town open till 1am.

Love Seafood Batam Center

You can get the freshest seafood at this popular restaurant that’s also conveniently located at the heart of the Batam Center.

Warunk Masbeb KDA

The quintessential Indonesian supper joint, Warunk Masbeb KDA has the best barbecued chicken and fish, hands down. You must order the crispy barbecue chicken skin.

BINTAN

BEST KNOWN FOR ITS ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS, BINTAN OFFERS VISITORS BEAUTIFUL BEACHES AND A RELAXING DAY OUT.

Located an hour away from Singapore by ferry, Bintan is the largest of the more than 3000 islands in the Riau archipelago. It's the go-to spot for weekend vacations for its beautiful beaches and all-inclusive resorts. Most visitors spend their days in the luxurious havens around Lagoi Bay in the north and never bother to set foot outside of them, but those who take the time to explore Bintan may be surprised by its appealing natural and cultural drawcards. Formerly a major trading post, the island was the historical centre of the Malay Riau-Lingga empire until the Dutch and British came along in the late 18th century, eventually breaking up the sultanate.

Historical Sights on Pulau Penyengat

RIAU'S FORMER ROYAL SEAT

Tiny Pulau Penyengat, a short speedboat ride west of Tanjung Pinang, was once the twin seat of the Johor-Riau sultanate. Take a becak (motorised scooter) to tour the island’s main sights. These include the striking yellow Royal Mosque of the Riau Sultan, the royal mausoleums of the Bugis princess who was given the island as dowry and her family, and the unique mix of Javanese and Dutch architecture in the former palace, which is undergoing restoration.

GETTING TO & AROUND BINTAN

Ferries to Bintan leave from Singapore's Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal. You can go to the main city of Tanjung Pinang in the southwest, or Bandar Bentan Telani (BBT) in the north, where the beach resorts are located. Both journeys take about an hour.

A short ride on bumboats from Tanjung Pinang gets you to popular spots such as Pulau Penyengat and Senggarang.

The most convenient way to navigate the island is to arrange for a taxi or a car with driver, as there isn’t much in terms of public transport, and rideshare apps such as Grab and Gojek aren't available. Alternatively, you can rent a car or motorcycle at the ferry terminals.

Suntan at Trikora Beach

RELAX ON BINTAN'S LOCAL BEACH

On the eastern shore, Trikora Beach may not be as luxurious as the resorts’ private strips of sand, but it has lots of free shady huts and you can watch local boat builders at work. Grab lunch at Pizza Casa Italia, which is run by an Italian family and has a proper wood-fired oven. It serves up thin-crust pizza enlivened with local flavours.

WHERE TO EAT IN BINTAN

Pujasera Lagoi

A 10-minute drive from BBT Ferry Terminal; has lots of local street food. $

Kampoeng Kelong Seafood

Seafood restaurant on stilts that's perfect for a post-mangrove-tour meal. $$

Bude Nino Ayam Presto

Serves a local-favourite deep-fried chicken dish and has an outlet near Trikora Beach. $

Stroll Through Senggarang

CHINESE VILLAGE BUILT ON THE WATER

Take a 15-minute water-taxi ride across the bay from Tanjung Pinang to the predominantly Chinese settlement of Senggarang, a community that formed as Chinese immigrants took refuge from monsoons. This quiet village is mostly set on stilts above the water and has several Chinese temples worth popping into. Sun Te Kong is the oldest temple, with an estimated 350 years of history, while the Banyan Tree Temple has – you guessed it – been mostly enveloped by the roots of a large banyan tree.

Trikora Beach | Akut Wibowo/shutterstock ©

TOP TIP

Despite their proximity to Singapore, both Bintan and Batam follow Western Indonesian Time and are one hour ahead of Singapore.

JOHOR BAHRU

A SHORT HOP ACROSS THE CAUSEWAY, SINGAPORE'S GRITTIER NEIGHBOUR IS THE CLOSEST OPTION FOR A QUICK, AFFORDABLE DAY TRIP.

Johor Bahru (usually known as just JB) is the main commercial centre of the Johor state and the gateway city to the rest of Malaysia from Singapore. There are other Malaysian towns and cities further afield for those who prefer a bigger range of cultural experiences and have more time to spare, but JB is a nice enough option for day trippers looking for a convenient, fuss-free spot to chill out. It's especially appealing for budget travellers keen to stretch their dollar. Many Singaporeans will regularly brave potential causeway traffic jams just to indulge in JB’s shopping malls, cafes and restaurants because Singapore’s strong exchange rate makes most things in JB much cheaper.

Explore the Heritage District

OLD-TOWN DELIGHTS

Less than 10 minutes from the Causeway and right across the water from Singapore, Jalan Tan Hiok Nee is a heritage street named for a pioneer Chinese trader where you’ll find plenty of good food in eateries with a long history – just look for the iconic Red House.

Have breakfast and Hainanese chicken chop from Restoran Hua Mui at nearby Jalan Trus, or head to IT Roo Cafe for its version of chicken chop. Old-school Hiap Joo Bakery and Biscuit Factory has over 80 years of baking history – go for the banana cake and coconut bun, or try some traditional Bengali pastries at Salahuddin Bakery on adjacent Jalan Dhoby. You can also find the Johor Bahru Chinese Heritage Museum here, which details the life and culture of JB’s early Teochew Chinese settlers.

GETTING TO JOHOR BAHRU

One of the cheapest ways to cross the border, buses are a great option for day trippers (no parking or traffic woes!). Causeway Link, SBS, SMRT and Transtar buses make the journey, with multiple routes and pickup points in Singapore and JB Sentral.

Going across the causeway by car at Woodlands or Tuas is convenient for groups – you don’t have to disembark for immigration – but best avoided during school and public holidays, when traffic can swell waiting times to hours.

The KTM Shuttle Tebrau train from Woodlands Station to JB Sentral takes just five minutes. Book tickets way in advance during peak periods as they'll sell out early.

Spend the Day at LEGOLAND

EVERYTHING IS AWESOME

Just 30 minutes by car from the Tuas Second Link in Iskandar Puteri, LEGOLAND is a very convenient day trip from Singapore.

The theme park consists of LEGOLAND Park, with more than 40 attractions including roller coasters, fun rides and lots of LEGO sculptures – ride The Dragon for thrills, or admire the intricate recreations of world monuments from LEGO bricks at Miniland. Right next door is LEGOLAND Water Park, which has water rides, a wave pool and a lazy river. Neighbouring SEA LIFE Aquarium is home to more than 13,000 creatures across 11 habitat zones.

TOP TIP

As in most cities, avoid dressing ostentatiously, watch your belongings and use common sense to stay safe in JB.

Red House, Jalan Tan Hiok Nee | HitManSnr/shutterstock ©

HISTORICAL PLACES TO CHECK OUT

Arulmigu Sri Rajakaliamman

JB’s oldest Hindu temple is covered inside with more than 300,000 pieces of glass mosaic.

Istana Bukit Serene

Snap photos with the fun sculptures and manicured gardens outside the Johor sultan’s official residence.

Johor Ancient Temple (Rou Fo Gu Miao)

Pay your respects to five Chinese deities in this small but striking 19th-century temple.

TOOLKIT

The chapters in this section cover the most important topics you’ll need to know about in Singapore. They’re full of nuts-and-bolts information and valuable insights to help you understand and navigate Singapore and get the most out of your trip.

Arriving

Getting Around

Accommodation

Money

Health & Safe Travel

Family Travel

Accessible Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Nuts & Bolts

Little India | Neale Cousland/shutterstock ©

Arriving

Practically a destination in itself (hello air-side movie theatre, Butterfly Garden, swimming pool, spas), world-class Changi Airport is Singapore’s aviation crowning jewel. Named World’s Best by Skytrax 12 times, this major Asian hub services a plethora of regional and international routes. Buses and trains also connect Singapore to Thailand and Malaysia, and ferries from Malaysia and Indonesia.

Fuse/Getty Images ©

Visas

Most visitors do not require a visa to enter Singapore and will be granted a 30- or 90-day stay on entry. Citizens of India, China and certain other countries must obtain a visa before arriving.

SIM Cards

Prepaid SIM cards are easily purchased at any of the airport’s Changi Recommends booths or islandwide at telco retailers and convenience stores. You’ll need to show your passport.

SG Arrival Card

Compulsory for all visitors, the SGAC can be submitted up to three days before the date of your landing via eservices.ica.gov.sg/sgarrivalcard, the MyICA app or by scanning the QR code at immigration.

Wi-fi

Hotspots are available in malls, museums, MRT stations and public spaces. The Wireless@SGx app gives you access to free public wi-fi across the island. Large-data users can rent pocket devices at the airport’s Changi Recommends booths.

Public Transport from Airport to:

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS

Singapore takes customs very seriously. It’s illegal to bring chewing gum, firecrackers, obscene or seditious material, gun-shaped cigarette lighters, endangered species or their by-products, or pirated recordings or publications with you. If you have spent 48 hours or more outside Singapore immediately before arrival, and you’re not coming from Malaysia, you are permitted 2L total of duty-free alcohol, of which only 1L can be spirits. You must pay duty on any tobacco products; failure to do so will score you a heavy fine. Consequences for the illegal import or export of drugs are severe and include the death penalty.

Getting Around

Singapore’s world-renowned public-transport system is sparkling clean and super-efficient, and reaches all corners of the island, making exploring a breeze.

TRANSPORT ESSENTIALS

Tourist Pass

EZ-Link Offers visitors unlimited transport on trains and local buses within the validity period (one to three days), plus perks and discounts at stores and attractions. You can buy the card at Changi airport and other SimplyGo ticket offices; thesingaporetouristpass.com.sg.

Citymapper

This app provides multimodal transport information based on real-time data.

Tap on & tap off

Remember to tap your EZ-Link card off when alighting from buses, or you’ll pay the full fare to the end of the line.

Etiquette & fines

Keep left, especially on elevators. On platforms, queue in designated areas and avoid pushing. In stations, you can be fined for eating or drinking (even water), attempting to board a full train, carrying large bags, being intoxicated, or lingering for more than two hours.

MRT

Six MRT lines crisscross the island and can basically get you anywhere, or at least very close to your destination. Make sure to remember the name of the last station on the line you’re travelling on, as it will help you identify the correct platform for boarding.

Bus

Singapore’s bus service is modern, safe, affordable and – most importantly – air-conditioned! Designated bus lanes ensure reliable journey times, but expect services during the peak before- and after-work hours to get very busy. Raise your hand to flag down the driver.

TAXI & GRAB

Many seasoned drivers retired during the pandemic, and surge-based pricing has been introduced, so taxis in Singapore aren’t quite as cheap as they were before. If you travel outside peak times, and never in a rainstorm, it’s still reasonably affordable to ride. Hailed taxis are metered, or you can lock in a price beforehand via taxi apps CDG Zig or Grab (Singapore’s Uber).

Dr David Sing/shutterstock ©

Bike Sharing

A number of bike-sharing companies operate in Singapore. They’re relatively easy to use: download the app, set up an account, scan the bike’s QR code and get pedalling. Most have GPS tracking to locate designated parking areas – failure to park correctly may incur a S$5 fee.

Walk

Neighbourhoods are best explored on foot. Keep in mind that the weather can get extremely hot and humid all year round, so opt for cool and breathable clothing. A small umbrella is always a wise choice to shield you from the sun or sudden downpours.

2p2play/shutterstock/shutterstock ©

TRAVEL COSTS

EZ-Link Singapore Tourist Pass 1-3 days

From S$22 including $10 refundable deposit

Sentosa Express Monorail

S$4

Shared-bike Hire

From S$1 per 30min

Bus to Johor Bahru, Malaysia

From S$3.50

Accommodation

A New Way to Stay

Co-living is an exploding trend in Singapore, which has never done serviced apartments or hotels very well. This option offers guests privacy while also providing opportunities to meet fellow residents – it’s like a more sophisticated and stylish version of a backpacker hostel, and includes fun recreational areas and activities. Initially, most spaces required a minimum one-month booking, but now many are available for and geared to nightly stays. Some noteworthy brands to explore in this space are Owen House, Coliwoo, Lyf and ST Signature. Happy co-living!

HOW MUCH FOR A NIGHT IN...

a luxury abode

$600
a standard hotel

$200
a hostel dorm

$30

Cheap Sleeps

Accommodation prices in Singapore are generally high, especially by Asian standards, but there’s a growing band of central, good-value hotels and hostels. Forget dingy dorm rooms – here you’ll find sleek, funky spaces catering to all types of traveller. Cheaper options exist outside the city, and they’ll only take you a few extra minutes to reach on the MRT.

IMTMPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Colonial Grandeur

Known worldwide as one of Asia’s most opulent slumber pads, the venerable Raffles Hotel is pricey, to say the least – rooms go for above S$1000 per night. However, as more hoteliers overhaul colonial buildings, heritage bungalows and rows of shophouses, you can get that old-school feel for significantly less than a night at the Raffles.

MOTORSPORTS PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sky-high Racing

The Formula One Grand Prix night race screams around Marina Bay Sands in late September each year (currently contracted until 2028) and is a highlight of Singapore’s tourism calendar. During this time expect hotel prices to double, and even triple for those close to the track, so avoid this period altogether or book early.

DAMIWEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SHORT-STAY LOWDOWN

Regulations on short-term rentals (those less than three months) still need clarification in Singapore, as rules differ by type of property, occupancy restrictions and who’s making the booking. No laws prevent guests from staying in short-term leased properties, but you risk having your reservation cancelled at the last minute or being turned away by building security.

Top: imtmphoto/shutterstock ©, right: motorsports Photographer/shutterstock ©, left: Damiwee/shutterstock ©

NEIGHBOURHOOD | PROS & CONS

Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays

Flush with many of the city’s showcase museums, attractions, malls, restaurants and bars. Easily accessible, with numerous MRT stations. Hotels are mostly high end with high prices.

Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar & the CBD

Lively neighbourhood packed with markets, hawker centres, temples, trendy bars and street art. Accommodation varies from swanky hotels to hip hostels. Well connected with public transport.

Little India & Kampong Glam

Hostel central, with large choice of cheap accommodation. A smattering of lovely higher-end boutique hotels. Streets can get very noisy, especially at weekends.

Orchard Road

Singapore’s shopping strip, with many high-end hotels but not much for budget travellers. Only a few hot-spot eateries and bars.

Eastern Singapore

Joo Chiat is the best location to stay, and the newly opened MRT line allows easy access to the city. Close to breezy East Coast Park, and the airport.

Northern & Central Singapore | Teeming with outdoor adventure areas and nature attractions, including Mandai Wildlife Reserve. Far from the city.

Holland Village, the Botanic Gardens & Dempsey Hill

Home to Singapore Botanic Gardens and trendy shopping and eating precincts, all moments from Orchard Rd, but accommodation options are minimal.

West & Southwest Singapore

Home to Singapore Botanic Gardens and trendy shopping and eating precincts, all moments from Orchard Rd, but accommodation options are minimal.

Sentosa Island

Resort-style hotels and easy access to kid-friendly attractions, beaches and sporting activities. Getting off the island can be a slight hassle.

Money

CURRENCY: SINGAPORE DOLLAR (S$)

oconnelll/shutterstock ©

Cash or Card

Major credit cards are widely accepted, including digital payments. Some smaller shops and hawker stalls remain cash only, so carry some small notes with you.

ATMs & Money-changers

ATMs are easily located in malls, MRT stations and commercial areas. Banks can change money, but rates are better at the money-changers dotted throughout shopping malls.

GST & Service Charges

Singapore applies a 9% GST to goods and services. Most prices in shops and food outlets will have GST already included; the symbol ++ shows that GST and service charge (10%) are not included and will be added to the bill. This is common in hotels, restaurants and luxury spas.

To Bargain or Tip?

In Singapore, tipping is not common practice. Instead, most restaurants include a 10% service charge in the bill, and tipping is not expected at hawker centres. When taking taxis, it’s considered polite to round up the fare or let the driver keep the change. Generally, prices are fixed, except in certain touristy markets and shops, where bargaining may be acceptable. If you choose to haggle, remember to do so in a friendly manner and not get too pushy, which will cause everyone to lose face.

TOURIST REFUND SCHEME

Tourists can claim a refund on the 9% GST paid on your purchases if you spend more than $100 at participating shops – look for the ‘Tax Free Shopping’ logo and have your passport ready to show. Claim your refund at eTRS kiosks at the airport or cruise terminal.

HOW MUCH FOR…

a walking tour

$40-60
a museum ticket

$8-40
a local theatre production

$30-80
a beach-club sunlounger

$50-100

HOW TO…  Save Some Dollars

• Student cards will get you a slight discount at attractions and museums, and bundle tickets will definitely yield savings.

• Free tours are organised by the Tourism Board (visitsingapore.com) via its SingapoRewards initiative.

• For cheap, yummy eats, head to hawker centres or mall food courts.

• Public transport is not only inexpensive but will connect you with most areas of the island quickly and in air-conditioned comfort.

Pornprapa Korprasert/shutterstock ©

Local tip

Always carry some small coins when visiting hawker centres and wet markets, as some charge 10 to 20 cents to use the bathroom facilities.

Health & Safe Travel

INSURANCE

Singapore has a world-class healthcare system. Emergency rooms are found in private and public hospitals, wait times are generally short, and costs are reasonable in the public system. Needless to say, travel insurance is advisable, as not only does it cover medical costs but theft, loss and cancellations too.

Heat Exhaustion

Singapore is hot and humid all year round. If you’re not used to high temperatures, aim to limit your time outside during the middle of the day, and always wear a hat and sunscreen. Hydration is also important: drink water regularly throughout the day and carry a portable fan if you tend to sweat a lot.

Victor Moussa/shutterstock ©

Wildlife

Singapore has abundant wildlife. Most creatures are harmless, but there are a few to watch out for. Monkeys and wild boars are found in forested areas and are best given a wide berth – in any case, feeding wildlife will incur a hefty fine. The country’s otter population is booming, having more than doubled since 2019. Again, observe from afar.

Robert Ang/shutterstock ©

Dengue

Singapore has suffered a sharp rise in cases of this nasty mosquito-borne disease in recent years. Peak biting periods are dawn and dusk, though it’s best to apply insect repellant regularly throughout the day and wear long-sleeved tops and long pants when you’re outdoors in nature. Symptoms include high fever, severe headache, body aches and rash.

HAZE INDEX

Good (green)

0-50: Normal activities

Moderate (blue)

51-100: Normal activities

Unhealthy (yellow)

D101-200: Reduce prolonged or strenuous outdoor physical exertion

Very Unhealthy (orange)

D201-300: Avoid prolonged or strenuous outdoor physical exertion

Hazardous (red)

D>300: Minimise outdoor activities

TAP WATER

The tap water in Singapore is safe to drink.

CRIME

Singapore boasts one of the world’s lowest crime rates due to strict laws, harsh punishments, a swift justice system and a comprehensive CCTV network monitoring practically every inch of the island. Therefore, you’ll unlikely be attacked, robbed, fleeced or even touted. Pickpocketing is something of a concern, however, so remain vigilant in crowded spaces.

Family Travel

Travelling around Singapore with little ones in tow is a breeze – the city is safe, clean and super efficient. Kids are welcome everywhere, and there are facilities and amenities catering to children of all ages. Oh, and don’t be surprised if locals fawn over your little ones!

Getting Around

Children below 90cm tall travel free on trains and buses with a fare-paying adult. All MRT stations are equipped with lifts – stroller users should look for the blue Priority Use signs, as these will help you navigate the safest and easiest route. Strollers are welcome on buses, and there’s a designated space with stroller-restraint systems. Rideshare service Grab offers family options with car restraints; book via the app.

Facilities

Malls and many restaurants are equipped with changing facilities, parent rooms and child-sized toilets. Note that breastfeeding in public is not common, as Singapore is a conservative society, but it is becoming more prevalent with changing attitudes and education. Sidewalks are in tip-top condition, so prams roll smoothly. Most hotels have cots available, but it’s best to reserve them.

Discounted Tickets

Small children enjoy discounted tickets for, or free admission to, many of Singapore’s museums and attractions. Student ID cards are valid for discounted entry at many places as well.

Cooling Down

Many outdoor parks, attractions and malls, including the Singapore Zoo, Gardens by the Bay and Jurong Lake Garden, have free water-play areas for children, so pack your kids’ swimming gear along with their hat and sun protection.

FamVeld/shutterstock ©

SENTOSA: ISLAND OF FUN

Sentosa is Singapore’s carefully planned beachside playground, and it makes for a perfect day out for the young and young-at-heart. Here you’ll find palm-fringed stretches of sand replete with restaurants, beach clubs and thrill-seekers’ entertainment – floating aqua park or beach bungee, anyone? Moments from the beach, the rest of the island heaves with theme parks and amusements, evening spectaculars, luxe resorts and a swanky harbour dotted with million-dollar yachts. Little history buffs will love discovering Fort Siloso, Singapore’s only preserved British coastal fort. Entry via the 11-storey, 181m-long Skywalk is only half the fun!

KID-FRIENDLY PICKS

Mandai Wildlife Reserve

Has four action-packed wildlife parks: Bird Paradise, Singapore Zoo, Night Safari and River Wonders.

Gardens by the Bay

Futuristic botanical marvel that includes a dedicated Children’s Garden featuring splash park, adventure trail and playground.

ArtScience Museum

Fun and educational exhibitions that will captivate and entertain kids of all ages.

Singapore Duck Tours

Kids will love touring Marina Bay (land and water) aboard one of these brightly coloured amphibious vehicles.

Accessible Travel

Singapore aims to create products and environments accessible to as many people as possible, following Universal Design principles that emphasise a space’s equitability and flexibility. With its world-class public transport, easy-to-access attractions and accessible infrastructure, it’s undoubtedly one of the most accessible cities in the world.

Taxis

There’s no taxi surcharge for wheelchairs, but usually only smaller, foldable ones can fit in the boot. Rideshare app Grab offers GradAssist (a foldable assistive device) and Assist Plus (wheelchair-accessible vehicles).

Tricky_Shark/shutterstock ©

MRT

All stations have priority lifts, tactile wayfinding, easy-to-follow signage, visual and audible indicators in lifts and on platforms, and wheelchair-accessible toilets. Staff and service ambassadors are there to help; approach the Passenger Service Centres if needed.

Buses

All public buses are wheelchair accessible and almost all stops are barrier-free. The rear-door ramp will be deployed and the bus captain will assist you in boarding. Designated spaces are marked; engage brakes once in a rear-facing position.

Accessible Hawker Centres

Most of Singapore’s hawker centres have been upgraded to ensure they’re accessible for all patrons, with ramps, lifts and barrier-free entries. There are also tables with dedicated spaces for wheelchair parking.

WHEELCHAIRS FOR HIRE

Most main attractions offer free wheelchairs on a first come, first served basis. AGIS Medical (agis.com.sg) has mobility scooters and wheelchairs for daily hire, with delivery and collection available.

Accommodation

Many larger modern hotels in Singapore are equipped with facilities such as accessible rooms and bathrooms, but older-style shophouse and hostel accommodation often is not. Call ahead to discuss your requirements.

Airport

Changi Airport supports travellers with reduced mobility, visual or hearing impairments, and invisible disabilities. Its website (changiairport.com/en/airport-guide/special-assistance.html) details services including special assistance (request 48 hours ahead), mobility-equipment hire, accessible amenities and a navigation guide.

RESOURCES

Visit Singapore provides information about navigating Singapore’s modes of transport and built environment with ease.

HWA can provide information on accessibility in Singapore and also offers transportation services.

Planet Abled Travel agent catering to travellers with various disabilities.

MyTransport.SG This app in the Google Play and Apple stores allows you to check for lift outages at the stops on your route.

Food, Drink & Nightlife

KYTAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

When to Eat

Breakfast The traditional Singaporean breakfast set features kaya (coconut jam) toast, soft-boiled eggs and kopi (coffee).

Lunch Usually served 11.30am to 2.30pm. Hawker centres and food courts will be heaving.

Happy hours Most bars offer a happy hour or hours, starting anytime from noon to 9pm.

Dinner Restaurants usually open at 6pm and are ready for closing at 11pm.on

Where to Eat

Hawker centre Open-air collection of food stalls selling a number of different local cuisines with a community vibe.

Kopitiam Very casual open-shopfront cafe with a handful of stalls inside.

Food court Located in shopping malls, usually in the basement. Food courts are basically air-conditioned hawker centres with marginally higher prices.

Buffet restaurant Usually found in large, swanky chain hotels. The decadent Sunday (and sometimes Saturday) free-flow champagne brunches are legendary.

Restaurants Take your pick from local hot spots, trendy cafes and celebrity-chef-created fine dining. There’s plenty to satisfy all tastes and budgets.

ANDYS/GETTY IMAGES ©

MENU DECODER

Dabao takeaway or to take away

Market price check price for item and whole meal before ordering

Zi char to cook and fry; describes dishes influenced by home-cooked Chinese food meant for sharing

Makan eat

Ayam chicken

Congee rice porridge

Bee hoon rice vermicelli noodles

Ho fun thick rice noodles

Mian hand-pulled wheat noodles

Mee yellow wheat noodles

Wonton Chinese dumpling

Murtabak Indian stuffed pancake

Roti prata South Indian flatbread

Char stir-fried

Laksa coconut-based noodle soup

Popiah spring roll with soft, paper-like skin

Nasi padang steamed rice with a selection of dishes; originated in Indonesia’s Padang city

Rojak vegetable and fruit salad

Kueh bite-sized snack or dessert typically made from rice flour or glutinous rice

Ice kachang shaved ice, red-bean, jelly and sweet-syrup dessert

HOW TO…  Hawker Like a Pro

Hawker centres can get quite crowded, so securing a seat first is advisable. Even if someone from your group sits at a table, it’s common practice to chope (save) the number of seats you need by placing a packet of tissues there. Sharing tables with strangers is customary in these places. Keep in mind that hawker centres typically don’t provide serviettes (napkins), but you can find sellers near the entrance if you need to buy some. If there’s a table number, note it, as the stall owner uses it as a reference for food delivery. If the stall has a ‘self-service’ sign, you’ll have to carry the food to the table yourself; otherwise, the vendor will bring your order to you. It’s now required by law to return your tray to a designated tray station when you’re done, although there are a few roaming cleaners who’ll take your empties.

HOW MUCH FOR…

kopi

S$1.10
a hawker meal

S$4-7
a beer at a hawker stall

750mL bottle S$8
a glass of wine at a bar

S$18-25
a cocktail at a bar

S$25-35
a meal at a restaurant

S$25-35
a fine-dining dinner

S$150-500

HOW TO…  Order a Coffee the Singaporean Way

Despite Singapore’s British colonial history and predominately Asian population, the national drink is not tea but coffee – kopi, to be precise.

This thick brew is traditionally crafted using robusta beans, known for their high caffeine content. The beans are roasted with butter, margarine or lard, and occasionally with sugar, until they’re beautifully caramelised. The beans are then ground, brewed inside a long flannel bag, and poured from a long-necked kettle to create a thick cuppa.

Kopi is traditionally served in a china cup and saucer, but it can also come in a tall glass mug. A typical Singaporean downs four to six cups a day.

Kopi Black coffee with condensed milk

Kopi-O Black coffee with sugar

Kopi O kosong Black coffee without sugar

Kopi C Black coffee with sugar and evaporated milk

Kopi C kosong Black coffee with evaporated milk

Kopi gah dai Black coffee with extra condensed milk

Kopi siew dai Black coffee with less condensed milk

Kopi pok Weaker coffee with condensed milk

Kopi gau Strong coffee with condensed milk

Kopi peng Iced coffee with condensed milk

Tea lovers can order a cup by switching out kopi for teh.

A Buttery Brew

Singaporeans have been indulging in the health trend of bulletproof coffee for decades now. Called kopi gu you, it’s a robust brew with butter added. Head to Heap Seng Leong to try a cup.

GOING OUT

A typical night out in Singapore kicks off with after-work drinks at a local bar, where happy-hour prices beckon the crowds. As the sun sets, the city’s spirited inhabitants gravitate towards the water or to rooftop bars, either flocking to the captivating Marina Bay or sauntering along the winding quays. Prime spots go in a flash, so reservations are often necessary.

Once the night takes over, the culinary journey begins. Patrons set out to satiate their appetites, dining on mouth-watering delights at local hawker centres or settling in at the trendiest restaurants. The well-heeled slip into the latest degustation temples, embracing the prime 8pm seating like connoisseurs of indulgence, and hidden bars quietly unlock their doors, welcoming cocktail aficionados to savour the artistry of Singapore’s top mixologists.

As the clock strikes 11pm, the atmosphere shifts. Some gracefully retreat home, while the night owls emerge, ready to ignite the dance floors of the pulsating clubs in Clarke Quay and Marina Bay. Gamblers are drawn to the flashy underground casinos, where no one knows whether it’s day or night.

But wait, the gastronomic journey continues! Amid the night’s festivities, a number of late-night dim-sum stops are ready and waiting to fill partygoers’ tummies with dumplings and noodles.

However, despite all the excitement, be sure to keep in mind that the night has its own rules. The sale of alcohol is prohibited between 10.30pm and 7am at supermarkets, convenience stores, petrol stations and similar establishments, and the city’s streets are an alcohol-free zone.

Responsible Travel

Climate Change & Travel

It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when travelling, and the importance of making changes where we can. Lonely Planet urges all travellers to engage with their travel carbon footprint. There are many carbon calculators online that allow travellers to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey; try resurgence.org/resources/carbon-calculator.html. Many airlines and booking sites off er travellers the option of off setting the impact of greenhouse gas emissions by contributing to climate-friendly initiatives around the world. We continue to off set the carbon footprint of all Lonely Planet staff travel, while recognising this is a mitigation more than a solution.

Martin Bergsma/shutterstock ©

schab/shutterstockt ©

Shop Mindfully

The Social Space is a socially conscious multi-concept store featuring a cafe, fair-trade shopping and a nail salon. It promotes greater awareness of sustainability and more accessible conscious living.

Escape to Lazarus Island

Stay in an eco-friendly tiny house that has been constructed with sustainable composite building materials that are primarily powered by solar energy. Food waste is composted on-site, and guests use biodegradable shampoo and body products.

Swim Sustainably

Singaporean label Sandbar Swimwear produces eco-beach gear for the whole family made from recycled plastic bottles. There’s no plastic in its supply chain, and each piece of swimwear you purchase funds the removal of 1kg of ocean plastic.

The Singapore Green Plan 2030 seeks to advance Singapore’s national agenda on sustainable development. It aims to strengthen the country’s commitments under the UN’s 2030 Sustainable Development Agenda and Paris Agreement.

Singapore’s ‘green buildings’ exemplify sustainability, incorporating recycled materials and eco-friendly technologies. Foliage-covered structures such as the Oasis Hotel Downtown showcase the city’s commitment to a greener future.

DINE IN THE DARK

NOX employs visually impaired or blind hosts to serve a unique dining experience. Your sight is taken away for dinner as you dine in darkness. Afterwards, write down your meal guesses before the menu is revealed.

kaiwut niponkaew/shutterstock ©

FOUR-PILLAR SUSTAINABILITY

Singapore has been certified as a sustainable destination based on the Global Sustainable Tourism Council’s Destination Criteria, which assess performance in four pillars: sustainable management, socio-economic sustainability, cultural sustainability and environmental sustainability.

Cook Local Dishes

Join legendary home chef Mummy Soh’s cooking classes at One Kind House. Its farm-to-table concept will teach you all about urban farming technologies, and you’ll harvest organic produce before learning to create delightful dishes.

Grab a Green Grab

Ride-sharing app Grab allows riders to prioritise cleaner-energy vehicles for their booking and reduce their carbon footprint by donating 10 cents for each ride to the Green Programme, which funds forest-protection and solar-energy initiatives.

Eat for a Good Cause

Breakthrough Cafe – which serves up some pretty yum dim sum – offers former drug offenders employment, which allows them to hone their skills and make a fresh start.

Have a Meaningful Massage

Seeking a revitalising reflexology session or massage? Visit My Foot Reflexology in Great Word City, where behind its ordinary shopfront lies a heartfelt mission: it employs visually impaired therapists who provide skilful and seamless service.

DISCOVER SINGAPORE’S SUSTAINABILITY STORY

Explore the interactive Sustainable Singapore Gallery at Marina Barrage, which offers insights into the city’s sustainable development plans. Discover climate targets aligned with the Paris Agreement, greening initiatives, and the vision for a car-lite Singapore.

Danny Ye/shutterstock ©

By 2026, Palau Ubin aims to add 9000 mangroves; they’ll store up to 30 million kilograms of carbon dioxide.

The Islandwide Cycling Network aims to lengthen Singapore’s cycling paths to 1300km by 2030.

Hathaibunn/shutterstock ©

RESOURCES
nparks.gov.sg

Singapore’s National Park Board ’s main website.

greenplan.gov.sg

A website dedicated to Singapore’s Green Plan which sets out sustainability targets for 2030.

bca.gov.sg

Information on the BCA Green Mark 2021, an internationally recognised green building certification scheme.

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Singapore is a conservative society. It took until 2022 for the government to repeal the controversial 377A law, inherited from British rule, that banned sex between two men. Local attitudes are changing, and there’s increasing support for LGBTIQ+ rights, but there are still no anti-discrimination laws to protect the LGBTIQ+ community, nor any laws recognising gay relationships.

Bar Hopping

The bulk of Singapore’s LGBTIQ+ bars are in Chinatown – you’ll find LGBTIQ+ pioneers and stalwarts Tantric and Backstage Bar here on Neil Rd. For raucous parties, keep tabs on Hypertainment (hyper.com.sg), which hosts some of the best events in Asia.

A Safe Stay

There is no specific LGBTIQ+ accommodation in Singapore, but because the country’s tourism and business sectors are very internationally focused, most hotels are LGBTIQ-friendly. Several higher-end hostels offer private rooms or pods as well.

ALEXANDER SPARTARI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Queer Connections

Looking to get in touch with fellow members of the LGBTIQ+ community? Look no further than Prout, a safe virtual space for the Singapore LGBTIQ+ crew to connect, find out about queer events, access resources and get support. Join the team’s Telegram channel for news and an event newsletter.

A Walk to Inclusivity

Meander down tiny lanes and through public spaces as tour guide Isaac Tng walks you through Singapore’s journey towards an inclusive nation. The tour, peppered with historical and personal stories, details the oppression the LGBTIQ+ community has faced and also celebrates the rights they have gained. Your tour concludes with a perfect Pink Sling cocktail. Check pridecommunity.co for dates.

Show Your Pride

If you want a super-cute memento of your time in Singapore, check out local advocacy-focused brand Heckin’ Unicorn – by queer people for queer people. It makes everything from trendy backpacks to crazy socks, but the hero product is the cute, unique pride pins for LGBTIQ+ people and allies. Buy via heckinunicorn.com; there’s even a quiz so you can find your perfect design.

SHOW YOUR PRIDE

The PinkDot festival is held each June to coincide with global Pride Month. It’s a celebration designed to bring LGBTIQ+ Singaporeans closer to their family and friends. Due to regulations, only Singaporean citizens and permanent residents can attend, but fringe event Pink Fest holds events for diverse audiences in the lead-up, and everyone is welcome. The use of pink comes from the colour of Singapore’s identity cards and is also a mix of red and white, the colours of the national flag..

Nuts & Bolts

OPENING HOURS

Hours are consistent year-round, but hawker stalls will close once they’ve sold out.

Banks 8.30am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday, 9.30am to noon Saturday

Restaurants Noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 11pm

Hawker centres, food courts and coffeeshops 7am to 10pm

Bars 3pm to 1am

Clubs 10pm to 3am or 6am

Malls 10am to 9pm

Chewing Gum

Import, sale and manufacture of chewing gum is banned. Gum with health benefits can be sold, but you’ll need identification.

Smoking

Prohibited practically everywhere in Singapore, including parks, beaches and bus stops, except at designated smoking points. E-cigarettes and vapes are illegal.

Toilets

Free public toilets are plentiful and usually of the sit-down variety. A small fee may apply in hawker centres.

GOOD TO KNOW

Time zone

GMT/UTC+8

Country code

+65

Emergency number

995

Population

5.6 million

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

Most malls, shops, attractions, museums and restaurants remain open on public holidays, except for the two-day holiday for Chinese New Year, when virtually all shops close. The Istana, the official residence and office of the president of Singapore, opens its grounds on numerous public holidays across the year – see istana.gov.sg for details.

New Year’s Day

1 January

Chinese New Year

Two days in January/February

Good Friday

March/April

Hari Raya Puasa (Eid al-Fitr)

March/April

Labour Day

1 May

Vesak Day

May

Hari Raya Haji

May/June

National Day

9 August

Deepavali

October/November

Christmas Day

25 December

Electricity 230V/50Hz

GoodFocused/shutterstock ©

STORYBOOK

Our writers delve deep into different aspects of Singaporean life

A History of Singapore in 15 Places

The Lion City has always been an inspiring star: a thriving port city with a diverse migrant population

Jaclynn Seah

Meet the Singaporeans

Singapore is a salad bowl of cultures, characterised by the unique colloquial Singlish language.

Nellie Huang

Stories from Singapore’s Walls

More than just Instagram fodder – you can learn Singapore’s history and culture through its murals.

Jaclynn Seah

Hanging Out with the Others

Glimpse other enclaves that make up Singapore’s diverse population.

Jaclynn Seah

Haji Lane, Kampong Glam | DerekTeo/shutterstock ©

A HISTORY OF SINGAPORE IN

15 PLACES

Singapore. Singapura. Temasek. Pulau Ujong. From its earliest reference in 3rd-century historical records through to today, the Lion City has always been the star of an inspiring story: a thriving port city with a diverse migrant population that’s making waves on the world map thanks to its strategic location. By Jaclynn Seah

WHILE THERE ARE few historical records documenting Singapore’s early days, the many names the island has held give clues to its past. The earliest reference comes from a Chinese account in the 3rd century that named the island Pulau Ujong (The Island at the End of the Peninsula).

Later navigational maps charted courses to Temasek, a ‘sea town’ in the midst of the flourishing Srivijaya Kingdom that stretched from Sumatra to Malaya.

At the turn of the 14th century, Singapore gained a defining new name. Legend tells that Srivijayan prince Sang Nila Utama saw the island in the distance, and for good luck named it after the majestic singah (lion) that he saw on it, which is how Singapura (The Lion City) came about.

Singapore’s economy and population boomed after 1819, when the British set up a key trading post that attracted the early Chinese, Bugis, Arab, Indian and European settlers who would form the base of Singapore’s population.

Singapore was Syonan-to for three painful years during WWII’s Japanese occupation, and it was briefly part of Malaysia in a year-long merger following the departure of the British in the 1960s. It became the independent sovereign nation of Singapore in 1965.

1. Fullerton Hotel

HISTORICAL SITE AT THE RIVER MOUTH

The magnificent Palladian-style Fullerton Hotel was Singapore’s first General Post Office in 1928, government offices during the British administration and a refuge for Allied soldiers during WWII. More importantly, it was built on a site once called Rocky Point, where the country’s oldest artefact, the Singapore Stone, was unearthed. This massive slab of sandstone covered in undeciphered Kawi script dates back as far as the 10th century. Unfortunately, it was blown up in 1843 to build Fort Fullerton, the predecessor to the current building. Only three small fragments of the stone remain – they’re on display at the National Museum of Singapore.

2. Labrador Park

GRANITE GATEWAY TO SINGAPORE

Early maps of Singapore indicate that it was a thriving port town before the arrival of the British. Twin rock markers jutting out of the water off Singapore’s southern tip – one called Batu Berlayar or Lot’s Wife on the main island of Singapore, and another on offshore Sentosa Island – were a key navigational tool guiding sailors through the narrow channel. Sometimes called Long Ya Men (Dragon’s Teeth Gate), these iconic rocks were blown up by a British surveyor to widen the channel for larger ships in 1848. A replica of Batu Berlayar is in Labrador Park at Belayer Point.

3. Singapore River

WHERE SINGAPORE’S COMMERCIAL LIFE BEGAN

The British transformed the swampy river banks at the mouth of the Singapore River with the country’s very first land reclamation to even out the banks, creating the government district on the north bank and Commercial Sq in the south. For over 150 years, warehouse trade along the river was the lifeline of Singapore’s development. Later, mechanisation would shift business elsewhere. These days the once-polluted river has been cleaned up, the former warehouses of Boat Quay, Clarke Quay and Robertson Quay are thriving nightlife spots, and the many small bumboats that trawled the river have become river taxis.

4. Kampong Glam

MALAY QUARTER AND ROYAL SEAT

A legacy of British colonial times is the 1822 Jackson town plan, where early settlers in Singapore were divided according to their race and allocated areas to live in. The seafaring Bugis and Arabs settled near the coast around the Rochor River, near the palace that belonged to then-ruler Sultan Hussein Shah. Commissioned by the sultan and built by the British in the Palladian style, Istana Kampong Gelam survives today as the Malay Heritage Centre, archiving the history of the Malays in Singapore. In 1824 the sultan was also responsible for building the focal point of the neighbourhood: the majestic Sultan Mosque.

Sultan Mosque, Kampong Glam | RONNIE CHUA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5. Telok Ayer Street

MULTI-RELIGIOUS FORMER WATERFRONT

Telok Ayer translates to ‘bay water’, an odd name for a street seemingly far inland, but this stretch of Chinatown used to be the waterfront where new immigrants would first set foot in Singapore. Later, various land-reclamation efforts pushed the shoreline much further out. The street’s formerly coastal location is also the reason for the diverse religious buildings that exist side by side, as the first thing most new arrivals wanted to do after enduring a long, arduous and often perilous boat journey to get to Singapore was give thanks to their god of choice for safely reaching land.

Telok Ayer St | LILYROSEPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

6. Sri Mariamman Temple

SINGAPORE’S OLDEST HINDU TEMPLE

Originally slated to be constructed along Telok Ayer St, this beautiful South Indian–style temple was moved to its current location along South Bridge Rd because of a lack of fresh water for Hindu rituals. Dedicated to the goddess Mariamman, who is believed to cure diseases, the temple was built in 1827 and features a magnificent colourful gopuram (pagoda tower) above the main entrance that is covered with detailed carvings of various Hindu deities. Construction was funded by Naraina Pillai, a pioneer of the Indian community who came to Singapore with the British and became the island’s first building contractor.

7. Tiong Bahru

SINGAPORE’S FIRST PUBLIC HOUSING ESTATE

Tiong Bahru is Singapore’s oldest public housing estate, built on top of a former cemetery and swamp to provide accommodation and address the sanitation issues prevalent in the old villages and slums. The very first block of prewar flats (Block 55) was completed in 1936, and its unique art deco and international-style architecture can still be admired today. Many of the road names here commemorate prominent Chinese businessmen and philanthropists. The district has experienced a revival in recent years, with trendy eateries and shops moving in amid the traditional businesses. It’s now considered a hip hangout.

Tiong Bahru | TLCHUA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

8. Fort Canning

FORMER WAR COMMAND CENTRE

Malay kings ruled from the top of 48m-tall Bukit Larangan (Forbidden Hill) in the 14th century, and during WWII the site was transformed into a British artillery fort and army barracks. In the tunnels of what is now called the Battle Box lie the headquarters of the Far East Command Centre. This is where the British made the pivotal decision to surrender Singapore to invading Japanese forces on 15 January 1942. You can visit the bomb-proof bunker, set nearly 9m underground. Above, the open green spaces on the hill now see invasions only by picnickers and concert-goers during outdoor productions and events.

9. Kent Ridge Park

HISTORIC WWII BATTLE SITE

It’s hard to believe today, but this serene green park along the Southern Ridges walk was where one of the last and fiercest WWII battles in Singapore was fought over two days in 1942. A commemorative plaque near car park B marks the site of this historic battle where a 1400-strong Malay regiment courageously fought to the death against Japanese forces with almost 10 times more men. More of the regiment’s story is told in Reflections at Bukit Chandu, a small museum housed in a colonial-style bungalow near where the men made their last stand.

10. The Padang

FIELD OF DREAMS

What looks like an unassuming green field in front of the National Gallery of Singapore is actually a significant site in the city’s modern history. The Padang has hosted many of Singapore’s key events, from the victory parade by returning British forces at the end of WWII in 1945 to Singapore’s very first National Day Parade in 1966 to mark a year of the country’s independence. The field is one of the oldest public recreation spots in Singapore, and it’s been a popular place for sports such as cricket and rugby from the earliest years after the British arrival.

11. Arts House

CITY’S OLDEST SURVIVING COLONIAL STRUCTURE

Singapore’s Civic District and former government quarter is chock-full of prominent conserved architecture, but the building currently known as the Arts House is the oldest colonial structure left standing in Singapore. Originally a neo-Palladian-style building that housed government offices, it has been renovated several times, most notably into a neoclassical building where parliament sessions were held after Singapore became independent. While parliament shifted to a new location at the turn of the millennium, the parliament chamber was retained and the building reopened as an arts venue, playing host to concerts and exhibitions, in 2004.

12. Kampong Lorong Buangkok

SINGAPORE’S LAST MAIN-ISLAND VILLAGE

Amid the high-rise residences and skyscrapers in the Singapore of today, a last remaining kampong (village) remains tucked quietly into a north-eastern corner of the city. At the peak, 40 Chinese and Malay families lived here, but now just over half of them remain. The humble plot has (so far) managed to escape redevelopment, and its zinc roofs, wooden walls, lush greenery and wandering poultry provide a rare chance for visitors to see what Singapore must have looked like in the days before the now ubiquitous public housing blocks were built across the island.

13. Singapore Botanic Gardens

THE ONLY TROPICAL UNESCO BOTANIC GARDENS

The Singapore Botanic Gardens are the oldest gardens on the island. Modern Singapore’s founder, Sir Stamford Raffles, first mooted the idea of a garden to research tropical botany and experiment with the cultivation of cash crops. The current site in Tanglin was built by the local agri-horticultural society in 1859, and after independence the gardens were a key driver of the massive tree-planting program that realised the ‘Garden City’ vision for Singapore. Today the gardens span 82 hectares and house the National Orchid Garden, home to Asia’s largest collection of orchids. The site achieved Unesco World Heritage status in 2015.

Singapore Botanic Gardens | MAREK POPLAWSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

14. Changi Airport

WORLD-CLASS GATEWAY TO SINGAPORE

Singapore’s first international airport was constructed in 1959 and located in Paya Lebar, but in just 20 years it had begun to outgrow its premises. The airport was shifted away from the residential area to the eastern coast of Singapore and the current Changi Airport was built on reclaimed land, officially opening its doors in 1981 and going on to win multiple Best Airport awards in the following years. There are currently four terminals, two runways and the Jewel retail complex with the world’s tallest indoor waterfall; a fifth terminal and third runway are in the works for the near future.

Jewel, Changi Aiport | SING STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

15. Marina Bay

ICONIC SKYLINE OF SINGAPORE TODAY

It’s hard to believe that the representative Singapore skyline shot of Marina Bay only took shape as recently as the 2000s. For 30 years beforehand, this area was empty land that had been left to sit fallow after an ambitious land-reclamation project had filled in what was once Singapore’s main waterfront. Take a stroll around the bay and snap shots of the notable landmarks here: the distinct three towers of Marina Bay Sands, the swirling lines of the Helix Bridge that connects to the spiky twin domes of the Esplanade, and (right next to it) the spouting half-lion, half-fish Merlion statue.

MEET THE

SINGAPOREANS

Singapore is an exciting salad bowl of cultures, characterised by the unique colloquial Singlish language. NELLIE HUANG shares what it’s like to be Singaporean.

Playing checkers, Chinatown | 1000 WORDS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SINGAPORE’S ETHNIC DIVERSITY is an eclectic fusion of cultures – it’s often compared to a local dish, the rojak (a salad with fermented prawn-paste sauce). Since Sir Stamford Raffles set up a free trading port on the island in 1819, the Little Red Dot has been defined by its wave of migrants, from early Chinese workers to today’s modern expats seeking their corporate fortunes. With no fewer than four official languages, it’s a place where Chinese dim sum restaurants sit next to street-side Malay satay (meat skewer) stands and mosques sidle up to Hindu and Taoist temples.

Some 75% of Singapore’s six-million-strong population is ethnically Chinese, the descendants of workers who came from China to seek their fortunes from 1821. Malays – the island’s original inhabitants – account for 13.5% of Singapore’s headcount. Most Malays are practising Sunni Muslims, as seen from the popularity of the tudung (head scarf) and baju kurung (long-sleeved tunic worn over a sarong) among Malay-Singaporean women. At 9% of the population, Indians might constitute a relatively small group in Singapore, but their their rich culture and tradition shine through on the streets of Little India.

Man making a flower garland, Little India | FILIPE.LOPES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Since independence, modern Singapore’s founding father, Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew, emphasised equality and forged racial harmony through a plethora of policies in education, housing, national service and the sharing of national economic wealth. English became the main language of communication in Singapore, even though Singaporeans also learned the language of their ethnic group as a mother tongue. People came together but held onto their respective religions, traditions and languages.

While Singapore ranks second best in the world for English proficiency, Singaporeans love speaking their own unique take on English. Singlish is a colourful local vernacular spiked with borrowed words from Hokkien, Tamil and Malay – a direct product of the island’s multilingual history. A typical conversation between Singaporeans might sound like this: ‘Eh, this Sunday you free anot? No ah? Why like that? Don’t be so boring lah!’

The particle ‘lah’ is often added to the end of sentences for emphasis, as in ‘No good lah’. Long stress is placed on the first syllable of phrases, so that the standard English ‘government’ becomes ‘gahh-men’. While often seen as broken English spoken in a singsong manner, Singlish has become a cultural marker for Singaporeans. Most Singaporeans are absolutely capable of writing and speaking formal English; Singlish is simply a language that we identify with. Pick up some popular Singlish phrases, such as shiok (very good), tabao (takeaway food) or chope (reserve a table), and Singaporeans will surely warm up to you immediately. So don’t pray pray ah (a popular Singlish slang phrase that means ‘don’t mess around with us’)!.

Woman working at Hawker Centre | ALEN THIEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Towards the Future

When Singapore became independent in 1965, it was relatively poor, with low literacy rates. By implementing a universal education system, low taxes and liberal immigration policies, the island nation quickly thrived: its GDP per capita is now around US$91,100, twice that of the UK.

WHO ARE THE SINGAPOREANS?

I was born in Singapore, and like the majority of Singaporeans I am of Chinese descent. My ancestors came from mainland China almost 100 years ago, when the British declared that they would develop Singapore into a free-trade port. Immigrants also flooded in from nearby India, Indonesia and Malaysia to seek their fortunes, and they too put down roots and settled in various communities. Today Singapore remains an ethnic mosaic, with even greater diversity in recent decades that has been driven by waves of foreign workers. Almost half of Singapore’s residents these days are non-Singaporeans. A huge number are low-paid construction and service-industry workers from China and South Asia, but there are just as many highly skilled professionals working in finance, biomedical science and IT. This open-to-foreigners policy is one of the reasons Singapore has developed at lightning speed and evolved into an international, cosmopolitan city rivalling Dubai and New York.

Singaporean woman | CARLINA TETERIS/GETTY IMAGES ©

STORIES FROM

SINGAPORE’S WALLS

They’re more than just Instagram fodder – you can learn about Singapore’s history and culture through its murals. By Jaclynn Seah

Shipbuilding by Didier Jaba Mathieu | JACLYNN SEAH/LONELY PLANET ©

IN AN ALLEYWAY off Chinatown’s Temple St, a girl pretends to sit down on a chair, snapping a fun shot where she’s having dinner in a retro-style kitchen. Over at Haji Lane, a group takes a picture against a rainbow-hued wall reminiscent of batik printed cloth. Street art jazzes up the walls of Singapore’s ethnic neighbourhoods and residential districts, but it’s worth taking a closer look at the stories they’re telling.

Singapore’s conservative image and reputation for sparkling cleanliness means it’s not commonly associated with street art. For years, graffiti was considered vandalism and perpetrators were punished with heavy fines, jail time and even the infamous public canings.

But in recent times, tourism has played a big part in the global uptick of murals and street art. There is growing appreciation among Singaporeans of how street art transforms common spaces and supports a sense of community identity. Street artists have received national awards, grants, and public and corporate commissions.

Singapore’s street art reflects the city’s culture. Permission from the property owner is required for all murals. You’re unlikely to see random tags, as unsanctioned marks result in heavy punishment. And while artists are free to express their thoughts, there’s an unspoken rule that anything critical of the government or seen to inflame racial sensitivities will risk sanctions...

Kampong Glam’s Hidden History

The lanes of Malay and Arab heritage district Kampong Glam have long been a street-art hot spot. The walls behind Aliwal Arts Centre and at The Black Book are respectively managed by local street-art crews RSCLS and ZNC. They’re among the very few places in Singapore that regularly see new works.

Kampong Glam used to be right by the sea – Beach Rd, which runs along its south side, was named for the beach it paralleled. The mural on the side of Cuturi Gallery (65 Aliwal St) by Didier Jaba Mathieu showcases the shipbuilding trade that flourished in the 19th century thanks to the seafaring Bugis people who settled here.

Over at 12 Baghdad St is a figure peeling back the wall’s facade to reveal colourful gemstones. Bejeweled: An Homage to Kampung Intan was painted by Singaporean artist TraseOne for the Singapore Heritage Festival in 2019. It refers to the street’s historical incarnation as a hub for gem trading and jewellery makers – the word intan means diamond...

Memories of Chinatown

The most popular street art in Chinatown is a series of murals by Yip Yew Chong, a self-taught artist whose intricate paintings depict his memories of growing up in Singapore in the ’70s and ’80s. Yip’s murals often have empty chairs and deliberate gaps that invite the public to insert themselves into the scenes for fun selfies. One of his most eye-catching works, at the junction of Temple St and South Bridge Rd, is a life-size mural of a Cantonese opera stage. Once a common spectacle, street opera has become practically non-existent in this age of movie theatres and online streaming.

Inside the busy Chinatown Complex, a work by Biddy Low (also known as Nightflower Arts) captures a time when Singapore’s hawkers actually hawked their dishes along the streets. (The government shifted them to dedicated stalls in the 1970s, which is how Singapore’s famous food centres came into being.) Find the mural on the 1st floor near the escalators.

Cantonese Opera by Yip Yew Chong | JACLYNN SEAH/LONELY PLANET ©

Little India’s Colours

The sights, scents and sounds of Little India have long captivated visitors, but a 2015 collaboration by the Little India Shopkeepers Association and the nearby LASALLE College of the Arts has added a new dimension to the neighbourhood. ARTWALK has seen its narrow alleyways become the canvas for murals that share local stories.

An iconic work from this project can be found on the side of a shophouse along Belilios Lane. Local artist Psyfool’s Traditional Trades of Little India highlights some of the occupations that the Singaporean Indian community was renowned for, from parrot astrologer to dhoby (laundryman).

An alleyway at 48 Race Course Rd is home to A Ride Through Race Course Road, a 20m-long mural by Jaxton Su. Painted in collaboration with the local community and students, the mural depicts a horse and jockey galloping through a traditional roadside market filled with baskets of fruit and hanging garlands. Singapore’s very first racecourse was built nearby by British settlers.

A Ride through Race Course Road by Jaxton Su | JACLYNN SEAH/LONELY PLANET ©

Representing Joo Chiat & Katong

In the east, the Katong and Joo Chiat districts are relatively new entrants to the local street-art scene. In 2019 the Singapore Tourism Board created the Katong Joo Chiat Art Circuit, and in 2022 ARTWALK expanded here from Little India.

At 321 Joo Chiat Rd, the striking colours and motifs of The Phoenix by Boon are a clear callback to the district’s Peranakan culture, which arose from the intermarriage of local Malays and Straits Chinese newcomers. The mural’s decorative designs are more often seen on Peranakan-style crockery, and while they have similarities to Chinese art, the use of feminine symbols such as the phoenix and peonies reflects the matriarchal Peranakan society.

A less obvious reference to the area’s history can be seen in the mural of a large turtle along 150 East Coast Rd. Created by artist duo Ink and Clog, this work is titled Turtle Cape, a translation of the area’s name, Tanjong Katong. Like Beach Rd, East Coast Rd used to be the shoreline and many turtles would lay their eggs along this stretch. Some of the old houses nearby are slightly raised to keep them clear of high tides back when the area was coastal.

HANGING OUT

WITH THE OTHERS

Beyond the historical ethnic neighbourhoods you can glimpse other enclaves that make up Singapore’s diverse population.

By Jaclynn Seah

FROM ITS EARLY days as a port city in a prime spot along bustling trade routes to its current incarnation as an economic powerhouse, Singapore has long been a salad bowl of diversity. It’s a country built by the immigrants who have decided to call it home. Even today, a whopping one-third of the roughly 5.6 million people who live in this tiny island are non-residents hailing from around the region and all corners of the globe.

Lucky Plaza | TK KURIKAWA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Race is a key driver of policies in Singapore, which prizes multi-ethnic harmony. Rather neatly, the population has been categorised into just four official groups, known colloquially as CMIO. Since the colonial era, the Chinese (C), Malays (M) and Indians (I) have made up the three main groups of Singaporean residents; everyone else, resident or not, gets lumped under O for Others.

Many have integrated well into local culture, but it’s not surprising that some of these ‘Others’ have created their own overseas communities, carving out spaces where they can experience a little bit of home while they work or study in Singapore.

For those looking for a deeper, more nuanced perspective on Singaporean life, a visit to these neighbourhoods will show you some of the diverse cultures that make up this Little Red Dot.

Lucky Plaza: Weekend Pinoy Hangout

Singapore’s Orchard Rd stretch is lined with multiple glittering shopping malls, so it’s easy to overlook the quietly ageing Lucky Plaza shopping mall sandwiched between Tangs Plaza and Paragon.

But step inside and you could be in Manila: many Pinoy (Filipino) businesses can be found here, from minimarts, money-remittance counters and thrift stores to hairdressers and restaurants.

According to the Philippines embassy, about 200,000 Filipinos live and work in Singapore, with around 60% of them in professional jobs and the remaining 40% employed as domestic workers. That’s why Lucky Plaza is especially packed on Sunday, when the latter usually have their day off.

Lucky Plaza is, naturally, the best place to find some authentic Filipino fare – Kabayan is one of the oldest Filipino restaurants in the mall and serves up affordable adobo (meat marinated with soy sauce and vinegar) and other home-style Pinoy favourites. The chicken inasal (marinated barbecue chicken) is a must-eat at Inasal Restaurant, along with its halo-halo (crushed ice and milk) dessert. Afterwards, hit any of the small shops for cheap souvenirs or Filipino snacks.

Peninsula Plaza: All Things Burmese

Sometimes referred to as Little Burma, Peninsula Plaza is the stomping ground of the estimated 200,000 Burmese people living, working and studying in Singapore.

Centrally located along Coleman St, near City Hall MRT station, Peninsula Plaza started out as a mall famous for its many electronic shops. Some of these eventually gave way to businesses catering to Burmese expats, from travel and visa agencies to boutiques selling the traditional Burmese longyi (sarong-like garment worn by men and women). You can even find a Burmese-language library here.

Follow your nose to the basement, where several restaurants dish up Burmese favourites. You can’t go wrong with the pickled-tea-leaves salad or the mohinga (noodle soup) at Inle Myanmar Restaurant. If you’re feeling adventurous, point at the most interesting-looking food on display at Yanant Thit, where they don’t speak a lot of English but will heap generous portions onto your plate.

SOME OF THESE ‘OTHERS’ HAVE CREATED THEIR OWN OVERSEAS COMMUNITIES, CARVING OUT SPACES WHERE THEY CAN EXPERIENCE A LITTLE BIT OF HOME WHILE THEY WORK OR STUDY IN SINGAPORE.

City Plaza: Indonesia Central

During the week, City Plaza near Paya Lebar MRT station is pretty nondescript, overshadowed by the revamped PLQ mall and visited mostly by those looking for a bargain at its wholesale fashion shops. But at weekends this is where you’ll find a good proportion of Singapore’s Indonesian community running errands and just hanging out in the alfresco spaces around the mall.

On the lower levels you’ll find plenty of supermarkets and minimarts piled high with crackers and selling Indonesian products and snacks, and boutiques selling cheap clothing and modest garments for Muslim women amid a hodgepodge of remittance counters, mobile-phone shops and knick-knack purveyors.

Indonesian food isn’t hard to find in Singapore, but the options at City Plaza are generally more affordable. Waroeng Bakso by Hamburguesa is only open on weekends, but it’s famous for its giant Indonesian-style bakso (beef meatballs), or follow the crowds to Dapur Penyet for some delicious smashed fried chicken.

SANCHAI LOONGROONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

“The first time I brought my daughter to the Gardens by the Bay light show at night, I saw her eyes sparkle when the lights and music came on. It was pure magic.”

NELLIE HUANG

ROSLAN RAHMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

“Concrete jungle Singapore does have rich wildlife within its midst. I was amazed when I encountered colugos and pangolins in a quarry-turned-park on a night walk.”

JACLYNN SEAH

THIS BOOK

Commissioning Editor

Darren O’Connell

Coordinating Editor

Sarah Bailey

Production Editor

Jennifer McCann

Book Designer

Hannah Blackie

Cartographers

Eve Kelly, Katerina Pavkova

Assisting Editors

Anne Mason, Maja Vatrić, Charlotte Orr

Cover Researcher Marc Backwell

Thanks Ronan Abayawickrema, Sofie Andersen, Fergal Condon, Karen Henderson

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

CRN 554153

13th edition – May 2024

ISBN 9781837585458

© Lonely Planet 2024 Photographs © as indicated 2024

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